Stus-List Suspend

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hey Stu

Can you suspend my account for now.  I don’t want to unsubscribe just don’t 
want the emails for now.  We are headed south again on Persuasion and will have 
limited data.
Thanks

Those that want to follow us here are some links
https://persuasion37.ca/

https://www.instagram.com/persuasion37/ 

https://www.facebook.com/persuasion37 


Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault___

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Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hey Everyone

Just wanted to say thanks for all the feedback.  I have a lot to digest and 
more testing, but I’m on island time so I’ll get to it eventually.

Thanks 

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 15, 2018, at 1:11 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Joe,
> It is the stray electric current through the water which can be caused by 
> metals on other boat in the vicinity or poor grounds on shore power in a 
> marina.  Salt water added to two dissimilar metals makes for a great battery.
> Chuck Gilchrest 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic Corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Yes that is how it is set up.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 14, 2018, at 7:03 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Since you are in fresh water, use aluminum anodes, not zinc.
> 
> Is your ground bus, behind the electrical panel, connected to the engine.  
> All of your instruments should have their negative leads going to the 
> electrical panel ground bus.  Then the ground bus should be connected to the 
> engine block.
> 
> Alan
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Alan

I have the book.  To the best of my knowledge I have three ground bus bars.  
One behind the electrical panel, engine block and one in the V berth.  I 
installed the v- berth one when I installed the windlass.  The windlass grounds 
directly to the battery, however I also installed a wash down pump and 
macerator pump that are grounded to a bus bar and the that grounds to the 
windlass ground in the v-berth.  Sounds contrary to what you said.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 14, 2018, at 12:53 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Mike:
> 
> A good book for you is Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical 
> Manual".  In the book, it says:  "All equipment should have an insulated 
> ground that leads back to a central ground bus bar in the main distribution 
> panel, which in turn leads to a common ground point or bus." In other words, 
> don't connect one ground to another, and then to the ground bus.  Each piece 
> of equipment must have it's own ground going to the ground bus.
> 
> Alan
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Aug 13, 2018 at 4:25 PM, Mike via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Hi Alan
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> The readings I posted are at anchor in the Thousand Island area.  I almost 
>> never plug in during the cruising season.  I only use shore power to charge 
>> the batteries during winter layup when the solar and wind are removed, every 
>> 6 to 8 weeks
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> So today I did more testing.  I disconnected the positive cable for the 
>> start battery and I still saw 0.02V at the prop shaft.  So I ruled out that 
>> as an issue.  I disconnected the battery charger and still saw voltage.  
>> Next I took the wind generator out of the equation and the results were the 
>> same.  Next I disconnected the windlass, same results.  Next I moved inside 
>> and checked for voltage on the tube for the centre board pendant.  Saw 0.25 
>> V.  I removed the positive cable to the house electrical panel.  Still saw 
>> voltage. 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Am I doing this right.  My memory tells me that the way I’m testing might be 
>> creating some kind of battery but my memory might be tricking me.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Could really use some help from any electricians or corrosions specialist 
>> out there.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> C&C 37 K/CB Shoal draft
>> Persuasion
>> Stormont Yacht Club
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
>> Sent: August 9, 2018 5:23 PM
>> To: C&C
>> Cc: ALAN BERGEN
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> You can use aluminum anodes in fresh water.  That's what I use.  They're 
>> cheaper than magnesium.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> To test for stray currents, borrow a clamp on ammeter.  Then check the AC 
>> line supply for your boat, and for the boats in nearby slips.  The ammeter 
>> should read zero amps.  Use the lowest scale, as stray currents could be 
>> pretty low.  If the reading isn't zero, some of the current is finding a 
>> return path, other than through the AC supply line.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> 
>> Rose City YC
>> 
>> Portland, OR
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:01 AM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Bob
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I started the season with 1.5 anodes. I’m in fresh water, Lake Ontario and 
>> St. Lawrence river.  I believe I have the correct anodes for fresh water. I 
>> really don’t want to go the galvanic isolator route
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike 
>> 
>> 
>> On Aug 9, 2018, at 12:04 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> What is the condition of your shaft zincs?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Are you in fresh water or salt water & do you have the correct zincs for the 
>> type of water your boats in?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Sounds like you may need a galvanic isolator...
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Bob
>> 
>> Bob Boyer
>> 
>> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
>> 
>> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> 
>> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>> 
>> Annapolis, MD 
>> 
>> 
>> On Aug 8, 2018, at 8:10 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Hey folks
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I’m looking for some help.  Persuas

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Joe 

I connected the ground from the multi-meter to the engine block.  Then I took 
the positive lead and touched it against various pieces.  Largest voltage shown 
was at the stainless tube for the centre board 0.25.  The mast and prop shaft 
showed 0.02V

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 14, 2018, at 9:41 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Voltage readings between what and what?
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mike via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, August 13, 2018 7:25 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mike 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>  
> Hi Alan
>  
> The readings I posted are at anchor in the Thousand Island area.  I almost 
> never plug in during the cruising season.  I only use shore power to charge 
> the batteries during winter layup when the solar and wind are removed, every 
> 6 to 8 weeks
>  
> So today I did more testing.  I disconnected the positive cable for the start 
> battery and I still saw 0.02V at the prop shaft.  So I ruled out that as an 
> issue.  I disconnected the battery charger and still saw voltage.  Next I 
> took the wind generator out of the equation and the results were the same.  
> Next I disconnected the windlass, same results.  Next I moved inside and 
> checked for voltage on the tube for the centre board pendant.  Saw 0.25 V.  I 
> removed the positive cable to the house electrical panel.  Still saw voltage. 
>  
> Am I doing this right.  My memory tells me that the way I’m testing might be 
> creating some kind of battery but my memory might be tricking me.
>  
> Could really use some help from any electricians or corrosions specialist out 
> there.
>  
>  
> Mike
> C&C 37 K/CB Shoal draft
> Persuasion
> Stormont Yacht Club
>  
> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
> Sent: August 9, 2018 5:23 PM
> To: C&C
> Cc: ALAN BERGEN
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>  
> You can use aluminum anodes in fresh water.  That's what I use.  They're 
> cheaper than magnesium.
>  
> To test for stray currents, borrow a clamp on ammeter.  Then check the AC 
> line supply for your boat, and for the boats in nearby slips.  The ammeter 
> should read zero amps.  Use the lowest scale, as stray currents could be 
> pretty low.  If the reading isn't zero, some of the current is finding a 
> return path, other than through the AC supply line.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>  
>  
> On Thu, Aug 9, 2018 at 6:01 AM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Hi Bob
>  
> I started the season with 1.5 anodes. I’m in fresh water, Lake Ontario and 
> St. Lawrence river.  I believe I have the correct anodes for fresh water. I 
> really don’t want to go the galvanic isolator route
>  
> Mike 
> 
> On Aug 9, 2018, at 12:04 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> What is the condition of your shaft zincs?
>  
> Are you in fresh water or salt water & do you have the correct zincs for the 
> type of water your boats in?
>  
> Sounds like you may need a galvanic isolator...
>  
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> Annapolis, MD 
> 
> On Aug 8, 2018, at 8:10 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey folks
>  
> I’m looking for some help.  Persuasion is suffering from galvanic corrosion 
> or stray current corrosion or something.  When I connect a multi meter, 
> ground to engine and positive lead to various place like keel bolt, mast and 
> through hull I see ~0.5V.  Today I changed out the controller on the wind 
> generator, with the circuit breaker open I saw 2.4V on the battery leads.  
> Also the prop shaft was tarnished looking as well as the prop when I hauled 
> out to do the centre board.
>  
> Before I call in the calvary can anyone advise me how to tackle this 
> methodically and what I should look for.
>  
>  
> Thanks in advance
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C&C 37 (k/cb) shoal draft
> Long Sault
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   htt

Re: Stus-List Roll pin size

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

I know this post is a little old.  Just wanted to know that I recently was able 
to purchase these roll pins.  I got them from MarineOutfitters in Kingston.  
Dave said they ordered them directly from Harken.  99 cents each.  Ordered 12.  
Now to drop the head sail and install a couple on the missing ones.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jun 2, 2018, at 2:26 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Definitely press or tap the pin out.  My rigger buddy and I have worked on a 
> couple of MKI's.  We used an appropriately sized punch and gently tapped out 
> the roll pins.  Here's Harken's directions on removing/replacing roll pins.
> 
> http://www.harken.com/uploadedfiles/Product_Support/PDF/4884.pdf
> 
> Unfortunately, I don't have the diameter of pin to give you.  Harken no 
> longer stocks them but they may be able to give you the correct size 
> information.  You can them order them from mcmaster.com or another vendor.
> 
> Be sure to use the correct size.  If you use a size that's too small, you 
> risk having a pin work it's way partially out of the extrusion.  If your 
> swivel is up, you won't be able to drop it.  :)  Seen that a couple times.  
> It isn't pretty.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Sat, Jun 2, 2018 at 12:06 PM, T power via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi Mike,
>> 
>> Thanks for the info and tip on getting them out, I'm definitely going to try 
>> pressing them out.
>> 
>> Cheers
>> 
>> Tom Power
>> Invictus
>> C&C 30 MK1
>> Fredericton, NB
>> From: CnC-List  on behalf of T power via 
>> CnC-List 
>> Sent: Friday, June 1, 2018 8:44:10 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: T power
>> Subject: Stus-List Roll pin size
>>  
>>  Hi everyone, I need to replace a foil on my elderly harken furler. They are 
>> joined with roll pins, which
>>  will need to be drilled out. Anyone have any idea what size they would be. 
>> Thanks for any help
>> 
>> Tom Power
>> Invictus
>> C&C 30 MK1
>> Fredericton, NB
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Thanks Joe

I think I’m suffering from stray current corrosion.  I’m on a ball at the yacht 
club and as said earlier, the only time I’m connected to AC is when Persuasion 
is on the hard.  I’ve started eliminating different devices looking for the 
leak.  A very slow process.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 10, 2018, at 3:16 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am a bit late to this, but FYI:
> Galvanic corrosion is caused by two different types of metal in water that 
> are electrically connected. The “less noble” metal is the one that corrodes, 
> which is why we use zincs (or magnesium or aluminum).
> There has to be a path between the metals for this to happen. This can get 
> much much worse when on shorepower because all the boats in the marina end up 
> wired together via the green ground wire connection. If no one buys new zincs 
> but you, guess who supplies the entire marina with anode material? YOU DO! 
> Galvanic isolators are 100% needed for any boat on shore power for this 
> reason.
>  
> The other form of corrosion is stray current corrosion. This does not need 
> different metals to work, just electricity flowing through the water. The 
> current moves metal from one place to the other, this is how electroplating 
> works. This can be very complicated to track down and can do a vast amount of 
> damage very quickly. There are a lot of different ways this can happen, but 
> imagine a boat with the keel connected to the ground bus, a negative ground 
> engine, and a SSB ground plate with DC connection through to the radio. We 
> now have 3 different underwater metals connected to the negative side of the 
> DC system. If the onboard ground bus and wiring are not perfect, some current 
> will flow through the water too.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 10, 2018, at 2:51 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Camp is the manufacturer.  In my opinion, Camp makes the best zincs.  Camp 
> zincs have a copper contact on the inside of each half that ensures good 
> contact is made with the shaft.  
> 
> I only use Camp zincs.  I buy them from boatzincs.com.  BTW, it's not a https 
> secure site.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Fri, Aug 10, 2018 at 11:57 AM Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> My spare is stamped with CAMP whatever that means 
>> 
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C&C 37 K/CB
>> Long Sault
>> 
>>> On Aug 10, 2018, at 12:52 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I am not an expert, but I imagine that the anode would decay much slower 
>>> (if it was the wrong one). Btw. The Chandlery has both (zinc and Mg); you 
>>> just have to make sure that you order the right one.
>>>  
>>> Also, if you have direct access to one, you should be able to check what 
>>> metal it is made from (it should be stamped on it).
>>>  
>>> Marek
>>>  
>>> From: Persuasion37 via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2018 12:44
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Persuasion37
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>>>  
>>> Are you’re right.  I was focusing g on prevention and not on protection.  
>>> I’ll go to Marine Outfitters and get an anode that I am 100% sure I have 
>>> the right one.  Would a wrong one be eaten away or would it stay like new?
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> PERSUASION
>>> C&C 37 K/CB
>>> Long Sault
>>> 
>>> On Aug 9, 2018, at 8:29 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Right. But if it is zinc, it would not properly protect your shaft or 
>>>> propeller
>>>>  
>>>> Marek
>>>>  
>>>> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>>>>  
>>>>  
>>>>  Original message 
>>>> From: Mike via CnC-List 
>>>> Date: 2018-08-09 20:10 (GMT-05:00)
>>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>> Cc: Mike 
>>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>>>>  
>>>> Marek you are right one should never ass/u/me.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Whether the anode is the correct one or not it would not produce stray 
>>>> electrons.  Right?
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Mike
>>>> C&C 37 K/CB shoal draft
>>>> Persuasion
>>>> Stormont Yacht Club
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
>>>> Sent: August 9, 2018 3:56 PM
>>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>> Cc: Marek Dziedzic
>>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Mike,
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> I would not assume anything, unless you know what you ordered. They sell 
>>>> both zinc and magnesium anodes. IIRC, when I was buying mine (4 years 
>>>> ago?), they did not have magnesium and I ended up ordering it online.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Marek
>>>> 
>>>> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
>>>> 
>>>> Ottawa, ON
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Persuasion37 
>>>> via CnC-List
>>>> Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 15:33
>>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>> Cc: Persuasion37 
>>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> I’m not sure.  I bought them at The Chandlery in Ottawa.  I assume they 
>>>> are for fresh water.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Mike
>>>> 
>>>> PERSUASION
>>>> 
>>>> C&C 37 K/CB
>>>> 
>>>> Long Sault
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>
>>>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
>>>> www.avast.com
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ___
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
>>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
>>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

My spare is stamped with CAMP whatever that means 

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 10, 2018, at 12:52 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am not an expert, but I imagine that the anode would decay much slower (if 
> it was the wrong one). Btw. The Chandlery has both (zinc and Mg); you just 
> have to make sure that you order the right one.
>  
> Also, if you have direct access to one, you should be able to check what 
> metal it is made from (it should be stamped on it).
>  
> Marek
>  
> From: Persuasion37 via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, August 10, 2018 12:44
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Persuasion37
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>  
> Are you’re right.  I was focusing g on prevention and not on protection.  
> I’ll go to Marine Outfitters and get an anode that I am 100% sure I have the 
> right one.  Would a wrong one be eaten away or would it stay like new?
> 
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C&C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
> 
> On Aug 9, 2018, at 8:29 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>> Right. But if it is zinc, it would not properly protect your shaft or 
>> propeller
>>  
>> Marek
>>  
>> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
>>  
>>  
>>  Original message 
>> From: Mike via CnC-List 
>> Date: 2018-08-09 20:10 (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Mike 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>>  
>> Marek you are right one should never ass/u/me.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Whether the anode is the correct one or not it would not produce stray 
>> electrons.  Right?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> C&C 37 K/CB shoal draft
>> Persuasion
>> Stormont Yacht Club
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
>> Sent: August 9, 2018 3:56 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Marek Dziedzic
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I would not assume anything, unless you know what you ordered. They sell 
>> both zinc and magnesium anodes. IIRC, when I was buying mine (4 years ago?), 
>> they did not have magnesium and I ended up ordering it online.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Marek
>> 
>> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
>> 
>> Ottawa, ON
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Persuasion37 via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 15:33
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Persuasion37 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I’m not sure.  I bought them at The Chandlery in Ottawa.  I assume they are 
>> for fresh water.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> PERSUASION
>> 
>> C&C 37 K/CB
>> 
>> Long Sault
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
>> www.avast.com
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Stanchion Bases

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

I would also like a picture

Thanks

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 10, 2018, at 12:39 AM, Peter Fell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have four never-used 'Type D' bases available. 
> 
> South Shore offers them at $80 (CAD) and HMP at $79 (CAD) each.
> 
> Offered at $40 (CAD) each + shipping from Victoria, BC. EMT or PayPal.
> 
> Peter
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

 Are you’re right.  I was focusing g on prevention and not on protection.  I’ll 
go to Marine Outfitters and get an anode that I am 100% sure I have the right 
one.  Would a wrong one be eaten away or would it stay like new?

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 9, 2018, at 8:29 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Right. But if it is zinc, it would not properly protect your shaft or 
> propeller
> 
> Marek
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Mike via CnC-List 
> Date: 2018-08-09 20:10 (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mike 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
> 
> Marek you are right one should never ass/u/me.
>  
> Whether the anode is the correct one or not it would not produce stray 
> electrons.  Right?
>  
> Mike
> C&C 37 K/CB shoal draft
> Persuasion
> Stormont Yacht Club
>  
> From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
> Sent: August 9, 2018 3:56 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Marek Dziedzic
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>  
> Mike,
>  
> I would not assume anything, unless you know what you ordered. They sell both 
> zinc and magnesium anodes. IIRC, when I was buying mine (4 years ago?), they 
> did not have magnesium and I ended up ordering it online.
>  
> Marek
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Persuasion37 via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 15:33
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Persuasion37 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>  
> I’m not sure.  I bought them at The Chandlery in Ottawa.  I assume they are 
> for fresh water.
>  
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C&C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
>   
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
> www.avast.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

I’m not sure.  I bought them at The Chandlery in Ottawa.  I assume they are for 
fresh water.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 9, 2018, at 9:43 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> Just to make sure, you use Magnesium anodes, do you?
>  
> Marek
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Mike Taylor via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, August 9, 2018 09:01
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mike Taylor 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic corrosion
>  
> Hi Bob
>  
> I started the season with 1.5 anodes. I’m in fresh water, Lake Ontario and 
> St. Lawrence river.  I believe I have the correct anodes for fresh water. I 
> really don’t want to go the galvanic isolator route
>  
> Mike 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stus-List Galvanic corrosion

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hey folks

I’m looking for some help.  Persuasion is suffering from galvanic corrosion or 
stray current corrosion or something.  When I connect a multi meter, ground to 
engine and positive lead to various place like keel bolt, mast and through hull 
I see ~0.5V.  Today I changed out the controller on the wind generator, with 
the circuit breaker open I saw 2.4V on the battery leads.  Also the prop shaft 
was tarnished looking as well as the prop when I hauled out to do the centre 
board.

Before I call in the calvary can anyone advise me how to tackle this 
methodically and what I should look for.


Thanks in advance
Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 (k/cb) shoal draft
Long Sault___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Mike Taylor shared “Centre board re-install” with you

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Jerry

Do you live in California.  LOL. 

There wasn’t much hazardous work.  A little bottom paint dust from cleaning up 
around the pin.  And of course drilling the lead but there should not of been 
any dust and besides my crew did the drilling.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37
Long Sault

> On Aug 2, 2018, at 3:33 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Good photo documentary but no breathing mask or goggles.  From Cruising 
> World. If you're going to do the work yourself, you'll want to suit up before 
> you begin. With any of these removal methods, gloves and safety glasses are 
> mandatory. When soda blasting, sandblasting or sanding, a disposable jumpsuit 
> and a high-quality dust mask are also essential. And when taking off paint 
> with a heat gun, upgrade the dust mask.  Jerry 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 2, 2018, at 3:16 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hi All
>> 
>> I hope this works I’ve never tried google docs before.  Hope it gets through.
>> 
>> From haul out to splash took about 2 hours.  Had a great volunteer crew (2) 
>> and the yard was exceptional.  Only charged me one way where other 
>> facilities wanted both ways.  And the yard let me do the work so no 
>> additional labour.   I love Loyalist Cove Marina.  Can I say that on this 
>> forum.
>> 
>> 
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C&C 37 K/CB
>> Long Sault
>> 
>> Begin forwarded message:
>> 
>>> From: "Mike Taylor (via Google Photos)" 
>>> 
>>> Date: August 2, 2018 at 3:09:50 PM EDT
>>> To: persuasio...@gmail.com
>>> Subject: Mike Taylor shared “Centre board re-install” with you
>>> Reply-To: Mike Taylor 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Mike Taylor shared an album with you 
>>> Centre board re-install
>>> 
>>> 17
>>> VIEW ALBUM
>>> You received this mail because Mike Taylor shared these photos with you. If 
>>> you no longer wish to receive email notifications of shared photos, 
>>> unsubscribe here.
>>> Get the Google Photos app
>>> 
>>> Google LLC
>>> 1600 Amphitheatre Pkwy
>>> Mountain View, CA 94043 USA
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Mike Taylor shared “Centre board re-install” with you

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh

My apologies to the group for sending two similar emails.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 2, 2018, at 3:28 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Google docs worked. 
> 
>> On Thu, Aug 2, 2018, 3:16 PM Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi All
>> 
>> I hope this works I’ve never tried google docs before.  Hope it gets through.
>> 
>> From haul out to splash took about 2 hours.  Had a great volunteer crew (2) 
>> and the yard was exceptional.  Only charged me one way where other 
>> facilities wanted both ways.  And the yard let me do the work so no 
>> additional labour.   I love Loyalist Cove Marina.  Can I say that on this 
>> forum.
>> 
>> 
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C&C 37 K/CB
>> Long Sault
>> 
>> Begin forwarded message:
>> 
>>> From: "Mike Taylor (via Google Photos)" 
>>> 
>>> Date: August 2, 2018 at 3:09:50 PM EDT
>>> To: persuasio...@gmail.com
>>> Subject: Mike Taylor shared “Centre board re-install” with you
>>> Reply-To: Mike Taylor 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Mike Taylor shared an album with you 
>>> Centre board re-install
>>> 
>>> 17
>>> VIEW ALBUM
>>> You received this mail because Mike Taylor shared these photos with you. If 
>>> you no longer wish to receive email notifications of shared photos, 
>>> unsubscribe here.
>>> Get the Google Photos app
>>> 
>>> Google LLC
>>> 1600 Amphitheatre Pkwy
>>> Mountain View, CA 94043 USA
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Stus-List Fwd: Mike Taylor shared "Centre board reinstall" with you

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hi all

A little more perspective on the centre board re- install.

From haul out to splash took about 2 hours.  Had a great volunteer crew (2) and 
the yard was exceptional.  Only charged me one way where other facilities 
wanted both ways.  And the yard let me do the work so no additional labour.   I 
love Loyalist Cove Marina.  Can I say that on this forum.

Link to pictures below.

Please forgive me in the other google pics got through.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 (K/CB) shoal draft
Long Sault

> 
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> Mike Taylor (mike.maetay...@gmail.com) invited you to edit the folder "Centre 
> board reinstall" on Dropbox. 
> 
> Go to folder
> 
> Enjoy!
> The Dropbox team  
> © 2018 Dropbox
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Stus-List Fwd: Mike Taylor shared “Centre board re-install” with you

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hi All

I hope this works I’ve never tried google docs before.  Hope it gets through.

From haul out to splash took about 2 hours.  Had a great volunteer crew (2) and 
the yard was exceptional.  Only charged me one way where other facilities 
wanted both ways.  And the yard let me do the work so no additional labour.   I 
love Loyalist Cove Marina.  Can I say that on this forum.


Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Begin forwarded message:

> From: "Mike Taylor (via Google Photos)" 
> 
> Date: August 2, 2018 at 3:09:50 PM EDT
> To: persuasio...@gmail.com
> Subject: Mike Taylor shared “Centre board re-install” with you
> Reply-To: Mike Taylor 
> 
> 
> 
>   Mike Taylor shared an album with you 
> Centre board re-install
>   
>   17
> VIEW ALBUM
> You received this mail because Mike Taylor shared these photos with you. If 
> you no longer wish to receive email notifications of shared photos, 
> unsubscribe here.
> Get the Google Photos app
>   
> Google LLC
> 1600 Amphitheatre Pkwy
> Mountain View, CA 94043 USA
___

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Re: Stus-List Centre board

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Sent off list.  There are more but you’ll get the gist of it.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 2, 2018, at 9:51 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Mike, can you send me some photos? Thanks
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-
> From: Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Persuasion37 
> Sent: Thu, Aug 2, 2018 8:43 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Centre board
> 
> Well it’s done.  The centre board has been installed.  Like Edd I pinned it 
> in place, but it is not permanent.  The pins can be removed, the pendant 
> applied and it’s a keel/centre board again.   So I guess I’ll have to call 
> Persuasion a shoal draft for now.
> 
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C&C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
> 
> On Jun 28, 2018, at 1:20 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> 
> The local yard did the work, but, essentially, they bolted through the lead 
> into the board, then added epoxy and fiberglass to the bottom to fill the 
> slot. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jun 28, 2018, at 1:04 PM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Edd
> 
> I’m curious how did you seal your board in place.
> 
> Mike
> 
> On Jun 28, 2018, at 11:46 AM, Schillay.com via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> 
> As most everyone on the list knows, I sailed with a centerboard on my 37+ for 
> almost 15 years before sealing it in the keel. While the 37 has a different, 
> deeper board, here’s what I discovered when it came to my boat:
> 
> In a good breeze, going upwind, it’s certainly an advantage. While we didn’t 
> necessarily point higher, we did side-slip slightly less. For cruising, it’s 
> not a big deal, but if you race the boat, you’ll want it down upwind. 
> 
> In light air, having that much more “boat in the water” when the board was 
> down was more of a disadvantage. If it’s 5 knots or less, you will sail 
> faster with the board up on all points of sail. Additionally, the slot itself 
> is a bit of a drag when it comes to water flow. 
> 
> Not only did I fix the board in the up position, I sealed the bottom — no 
> slot. I actually sail faster now off the wind.  I did add a drain plug, but 
> I’ve found not much water has been collecting inside. 
> 
> Interestingly enough, I raced the Enterprise for a season and a half with the 
> board sealed in place. Ultimately I saw no difference — we were as 
> competitive as we were before and finishing in the same place as before with 
> the same time differences between the same competition. This was for one-hour 
> or so beer-can racing, and perhaps things would be different on longer races. 
> Oh — and sealing it gave me one less whiny crew member in the pit since they 
> no longer had to winch that thing up after the windward mark rounding. 
> 
> Maintenance issues is a biggie. If you keep the board, you are looking at 
> replacing that cable every 5-8 years. For the 37+ design, there’s no way a 
> diver can do it — it must be a haul and the yard will charge you extra for 
> staying in their travel lift for the duration of the swap. And if that cable 
> should happen to break, you could be looking at a world of damage to your 
> keel. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> On Jun 28, 2018, 11:21 AM -0400, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
> , wrote:
> To all you keel/centre board owners, I’m wondering how many of you actually 
> use the centre board?
> 
> Some of you may recall that the pendant let go somewhere in the Bahamas in 
> 14/15. Fortunately the board was jammed up inside and had been for a number 
> of years. Upon my return to Canada I removed the board and it has been in my 
> garage ever since. Long story short it is repaired and I am ready to 
> re-install the board. I’m thinking of just pinning the board in the up 
> position. I have all the hardware but I’ve only had the board deployed 3 
> times in 12 years. This should also relieve any maintenance issues. Any 
> thoughts?
> 
> Thanks in advance for the feedback.
> 
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C&C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with y

Re: Stus-List Centre board

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Well it’s done.  The centre board has been installed.  Like Edd I pinned it in 
place, but it is not permanent.  The pins can be removed, the pendant applied 
and it’s a keel/centre board again.   So I guess I’ll have to call Persuasion a 
shoal draft for now.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jun 28, 2018, at 1:20 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> 
> The local yard did the work, but, essentially, they bolted through the lead 
> into the board, then added epoxy and fiberglass to the bottom to fill the 
> slot. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Jun 28, 2018, at 1:04 PM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Edd
> 
> I’m curious how did you seal your board in place.
> 
> Mike
> 
>> On Jun 28, 2018, at 11:46 AM, Schillay.com via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Mike,
>> 
>> As most everyone on the list knows, I sailed with a centerboard on my 37+ 
>> for almost 15 years before sealing it in the keel. While the 37 has a 
>> different, deeper board, here’s what I discovered when it came to my boat:
>> 
>> In a good breeze, going upwind, it’s certainly an advantage. While we didn’t 
>> necessarily point higher, we did side-slip slightly less. For cruising, it’s 
>> not a big deal, but if you race the boat, you’ll want it down upwind. 
>> 
>> In light air, having that much more “boat in the water” when the board was 
>> down was more of a disadvantage. If it’s 5 knots or less, you will sail 
>> faster with the board up on all points of sail. Additionally, the slot 
>> itself is a bit of a drag when it comes to water flow. 
>> 
>> Not only did I fix the board in the up position, I sealed the bottom — no 
>> slot. I actually sail faster now off the wind.  I did add a drain plug, but 
>> I’ve found not much water has been collecting inside. 
>> 
>> Interestingly enough, I raced the Enterprise for a season and a half with 
>> the board sealed in place. Ultimately I saw no difference — we were as 
>> competitive as we were before and finishing in the same place as before with 
>> the same time differences between the same competition. This was for 
>> one-hour or so beer-can racing, and perhaps things would be different on 
>> longer races. Oh — and sealing it gave me one less whiny crew member in the 
>> pit since they no longer had to winch that thing up after the windward mark 
>> rounding. 
>> 
>> Maintenance issues is a biggie. If you keep the board, you are looking at 
>> replacing that cable every 5-8 years. For the 37+ design, there’s no way a 
>> diver can do it — it must be a haul and the yard will charge you extra for 
>> staying in their travel lift for the duration of the swap. And if that cable 
>> should happen to break, you could be looking at a world of damage to your 
>> keel. 
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>>> On Jun 28, 2018, 11:21 AM -0400, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
>>> , wrote:
>>> To all you keel/centre board owners, I’m wondering how many of you actually 
>>> use the centre board?
>>> 
>>> Some of you may recall that the pendant let go somewhere in the Bahamas in 
>>> 14/15. Fortunately the board was jammed up inside and had been for a number 
>>> of years. Upon my return to Canada I removed the board and it has been in 
>>> my garage ever since. Long story short it is repaired and I am ready to 
>>> re-install the board. I’m thinking of just pinning the board in the up 
>>> position. I have all the hardware but I’ve only had the board deployed 3 
>>> times in 12 years. This should also relieve any maintenance issues. Any 
>>> thoughts?
>>> 
>>> Thanks in advance for the feedback.
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> PERSUASION
>>> C&C 37 K/CB
>>> Long Sault
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for suppor

Stus-List Bilge blower

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Well I’m in the process of replacing the bilge blower on Persuasion.  Does 
anyone know  what the original blower is.  And where can I find a guy small 
enough to crawl all the way to the back.  More importantly why am I seeing 
voltage (<1) when the switch is off.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault
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Re: Stus-List Removing old stickers

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

We use oven cleaner to remove everything but it’s gelcoat not paint.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jul 18, 2018, at 11:59 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have Charleston Race Week stickers on my bow (OK, I have been busy with 
> other things!) that I need to remove.
>  
> The boat has Awl-Grip on its hull which I would prefer to preserve.
>  
> Aside from plastic scrapers, soap and water, and elbow grease, does anyone 
> have a magic remedy to remove this.
>  
> Its not a decal, just adhesive backed but they are about 18" x 18".
>  
> TIA,
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C XL/kcb 
>  
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List launch finally!

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Yay. Way to go Richard

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jul 15, 2018, at 3:52 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am happy to report that we finally launched last Friday, ( I know it was 
> the 13th)...we stripped the bottom to bare fiberglass and put on 4 coats of 
> barrier epoxy and two coats of antifouling...she looks great ...under 
> water...! 
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark 4; 1985 C&C 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584; 
> Richard N. Bush  
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: John Conklin 
> Sent: Fri, Jul 13, 2018 1:41 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 37R Keel Shortening Advice?
> 
> The  keel on my 1982 - standard 37 was taken from 6’10”
>  (originally fin keel) to 5’6”
> with bulb 
> She sails like a dream. I can post pics but my message always get rejected :(
> shoot me email happy to send along 
> 
> John Conklin 
> S/V Halcyon 
> www.flirtingwithfire.net
> 
> On Jul 13, 2018, at 1:10 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Noah,
> 
> It can be done. Too many details to list here, but this is a good start:
> https://marskeel.com/production/repair-modifications/draft-reductions/ 
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35mk-1
> for sale on Vancouver Island, feel free to forward link SVP,
> http://www.usednanaimo.com/classified-ad/CC-35-sailboat_29730445
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At 09:58 AM 7/13/2018, you wrote:
> Hi Everyone, I've purchased the 1988 37R 'Assailant' in Ontario and will be 
> using her as a cruiser instead of a racer. The 8'1" draw looks like it will 
> cause me some grief with the sailing I want to do along the St. Lawrence 
> River and onward. My plan is to shorten the keel. Does anyone have advice or 
> guidance to offer?
> 
> Many Thanks,
> 
> Noah
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Re: Stus-List Refrig

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Sorry I have limited data.  But there is a way to connect a led light to the 
controller to see if there are any faults.  Just google it.  Mine was the 
controller.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jul 13, 2018, at 6:47 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> So.  3 year old old Danfoss 12 volt refrig.   Last one lasted us  20 plus 
> years.  This one...?   Worked great until this year.  Start it up.  Fan is 
> going and we get frosting at the evaporator at where the tubes enter.   But 
> not consistent throughout evaporator.  If a coolant leak would we get any 
> frosting of evap at all?  
> 
> Voltage is 12.5 or better .
> 
> Thanks in advance.  
> 
> Get Outlook for Android
> 
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Did someone put the brake on?

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jul 13, 2018, at 9:36 PM, Tom cunningham via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello All!
> I’m new to this list and am really not sure how it works (or if I’ve set it 
> up at all correctly) 
> My name is Tom and I’m in shelter island N.Y.
> I’ve recently purchased an 1982 landfall 35 and am having the most horrific 
> time with the rudder.
> The helm was pretty free when I first inspected the boat (I was able to 
> easily swing the rudder by hand from the ground)
> However, during the time the boat was in the yard, whenever I came back to 
> the steering it seemed stiffer but I was caught up in other goals and didn’t 
> pay enough mind so did nothing.
> Now though, with the boat in the water it takes a tremendous amount of force 
> to move the rudder at all. I’ve troubleshot and disconnected the Edson helm 
> and after making a sling have attempted to drop the rudder to see if it’s 
> bent but it won’t budge. I’m currently injecting penetrating oil where 
> possible and manipulating  the rudder with the emergency tiller.  I’ve 
> already spoken with the c and c guys in Canada whom, after hearing me out, 
> thought it was an interesting problem. 
> I too am interested and am looking for help.
> 
> Tom Cunningham
> tomcunning...@me.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jul 13, 2018, at 2:26 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Sorry about the blank reply earlier!!!
>> 
>> Noah, X 3 re a Mars bulb. The only thing I would caution you about is the 
>> 37R keel, from what I have read, some of the 37Rs had voids in the keel 
>> filled with sand and/or filler to reduce weight. I think I would sound your 
>> keel with a small hammer to make sure it is solid before you commit to a 
>> certain size (weight) bulb. Mars may have records of your boat if they 
>> supplied the original lead keel. Also consider the rudder depth, no point 
>> having your rudder deeper than your keel or you could find bottom rudder 
>> first!
>> Len Mitchell
>> Crazy Legs
>> 1989 37+
>> Midland On
>> 
>> Sent from my mobile device. 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Best before date.  Where’s that found?

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jun 30, 2018, at 7:34 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I haven’t seen it, either. As far as I know, as long as your extinguisher has 
> a best before date that is not past, it is good to go.
>  
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Alan Liles via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2018 19:04
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Alan Liles 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings
>  
> Everyone I talk to says yearly and yet I can't find the regulation that 
> states it clearly. Any Canadians have an idea?
> 
> Alan Liles
> SV Elendil
> Vancouver BC
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Gee I didn’t know I had lost my citizenship.  I hope my American brothers adopt 
me.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jun 30, 2018, at 7:04 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Everyone I talk to says yearly and yet I can't find the regulation that 
> states it clearly. Any Canadians have an idea?
> 
> Alan Liles
> SV Elendil
> Vancouver BC
> 
> 
>> On Jun 29, 2018, at 12:21 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Al
>> 
>> You may be looking at the wrong standard.
>> 
>> From Transport Canada Marine
>> All extinguishers should be visually inspected each month, and serviced once 
>> a year. All carbon dioxide extinguishers should be weighed annually. Dry 
>> chemical extinguishers should occasionally be turned upside down and shaken.
>> 
>> A hydrostatic test should be performed:
>> 
>> every 12 years for pressure type extinguishers
>> 
>> every 5 years for carbon dioxide and water extinguishers
>> 
>> after discharge for any extinguisher 5 years old or older
>> There is a requirement for yearly certification under the Canada safety code.
>> 
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C&C 37 K/CB
>> Long Sault
>> 
>>> On Jun 28, 2018, at 8:04 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Canadian regulations require fire extinguishers to be recertified yearly. 
>>> It's probably a good thing but I always complain about the cost. 
>>> 
>>> Al Liles
>>> SV Elendil
>>> Vancouver BC
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Jun 27, 2018, at 6:59 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> make sure the powder is not compacted, need to shake it up regularly.  It 
>>>> will not work if the powder is in one big lump.
>>>> 
>>>> Leslie,
>>>> semi-retired USAR member.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Wed, 6/27/18, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings
>>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>> Cc: "svrebeccaleah" 
>>>> Date: Wednesday, June 27, 2018, 9:55 AM
>>>> 
>>>> Eric,I
>>>> just replaced some of my fire extinguishers. There was a
>>>> year embossed on the bottom of mine. One was 88, another was
>>>> 94. As long as the pressure is in the green, and weight is
>>>> above minimum on label they are serviceable.(this is how we
>>>> check the at the airline I work for).  I use a small
>>>> kitchen scale. 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Doug
>>>> Mountjoy Rebecca
>>>> Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC,
>>>> WA.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>  Original
>>>> message From: Eric Frank via CnC-List
>>>>  Date: 6/27/18 
>>>> 08:56  (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>>> Cc: Eric Frank 
>>>> Subject: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers
>>>> & Lifeslings 
>>>> 
>>>> Checking the condition of the
>>>> extinguishers aboard Cats Paw - I can’t find a date on
>>>> them.  Aren’t they supposed to be replaced every 5 years,
>>>> or is it sufficient to just check that the pressure
>>>> indicator is safely in the green? A related safety issue - I
>>>> checked the line inside my Lifesling and discovered the
>>>> splice between the yellow polypropylene line and the heavier
>>>> line that is secured to a deck cleat was in terrible
>>>> condition.  It would likely have broken had we used it.
>>>> That has not been on my list to check annually but certainly
>>>> is now - just passing this along to the group.
>>>> Polypropylene is UV sensitive, so it's likely the
>>>> plastic line should be replaced.  Is that safe (and would
>>>> it satisfy a safety inspection) - if so how does one splice
>>>> the plastic line with the heavier line at the end? For this
>>>> year, I decided to buy a new Lifesling, although the
>>>> Sunbrella cover I had made for it when purchased seems in
>>>> good condition.
>>>> 
>>>> Eric
>>>> Frank
>>>> Cat's
>>>> Paw, C&C 35 Mk II
>>>> Mattapoisett, MA
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> _

Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Al

You may be looking at the wrong standard.

From Transport Canada Marine
All extinguishers should be visually inspected each month, and serviced once a 
year. All carbon dioxide extinguishers should be weighed annually. Dry chemical 
extinguishers should occasionally be turned upside down and shaken.

A hydrostatic test should be performed:

every 12 years for pressure type extinguishers

every 5 years for carbon dioxide and water extinguishers

after discharge for any extinguisher 5 years old or older
There is a requirement for yearly certification under the Canada safety code.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jun 28, 2018, at 8:04 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Canadian regulations require fire extinguishers to be recertified yearly. 
> It's probably a good thing but I always complain about the cost. 
> 
> Al Liles
> SV Elendil
> Vancouver BC
> 
> 
>> On Jun 27, 2018, at 6:59 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> make sure the powder is not compacted, need to shake it up regularly.  It 
>> will not work if the powder is in one big lump.
>> 
>> Leslie,
>> semi-retired USAR member.
>> 
>> 
>> On Wed, 6/27/18, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  wrote:
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: "svrebeccaleah" 
>> Date: Wednesday, June 27, 2018, 9:55 AM
>> 
>> Eric,I
>> just replaced some of my fire extinguishers. There was a
>> year embossed on the bottom of mine. One was 88, another was
>> 94. As long as the pressure is in the green, and weight is
>> above minimum on label they are serviceable.(this is how we
>> check the at the airline I work for).  I use a small
>> kitchen scale. 
>> 
>> 
>> Doug
>> Mountjoy Rebecca
>> Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC,
>> WA.
>> 
>> 
>>  Original
>> message From: Eric Frank via CnC-List
>>  Date: 6/27/18 
>> 08:56  (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Eric Frank 
>> Subject: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers
>> & Lifeslings 
>> 
>> Checking the condition of the
>> extinguishers aboard Cats Paw - I can’t find a date on
>> them.  Aren’t they supposed to be replaced every 5 years,
>> or is it sufficient to just check that the pressure
>> indicator is safely in the green? A related safety issue - I
>> checked the line inside my Lifesling and discovered the
>> splice between the yellow polypropylene line and the heavier
>> line that is secured to a deck cleat was in terrible
>> condition.  It would likely have broken had we used it.
>> That has not been on my list to check annually but certainly
>> is now - just passing this along to the group.
>> Polypropylene is UV sensitive, so it's likely the
>> plastic line should be replaced.  Is that safe (and would
>> it satisfy a safety inspection) - if so how does one splice
>> the plastic line with the heavier line at the end? For this
>> year, I decided to buy a new Lifesling, although the
>> Sunbrella cover I had made for it when purchased seems in
>> good condition.
>> 
>> Eric
>> Frank
>> Cat's
>> Paw, C&C 35 Mk II
>> Mattapoisett, MA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting
>> this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
>> greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
>> -Inline Attachment Follows-
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Stus-List Centre board

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

To all you keel/centre board owners, I’m wondering how many of you actually use 
the centre board?

Some of you may recall that the pendant let go somewhere in the Bahamas in 
14/15.  Fortunately the board was jammed up inside and had been for a number of 
years.  Upon my return to Canada I removed the board and it has been in my 
garage ever since.  Long story short it is repaired and I am ready to 
re-install the board.  I’m thinking of just pinning the board in the up 
position.  I have all the hardware but I’ve only had the board deployed 3 times 
in 12 years.  This should also relieve any maintenance issues.  Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance for the feedback.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Keel bolt size

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Richard

On Persuasion the one under the mast is considerably bigger.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jun 27, 2018, at 10:31 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Josh; thanks the video was very helpful;  it appear that all of the bolts for 
> my boat are the same size; but I will re measure the bolt size; 
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> To: C&C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Sent: Wed, Jun 27, 2018 5:43 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Keel bolt size
> 
> Torque values are typically based on the size of the threaded portion of the 
> bolt not the nut size or socket size.  It was a little unclear y your 
> description which you were measuring.  Have you seen my video?  I provided 
> extra info in the video description.  I'll link it here and copy the 
> description text too. 
> 
> https://youtu.be/n6B0IPKQERc
> 
> I used the torque values from the link below as a guide.  316 SS lubricated. 
> 
> https://www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Torque%20of%20Stainless%20Steel,%20Non%20ferrous%20Torque.pdf
> 
> https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/nuts-washers/us-nut-dimensions.aspx
> 
> C&C 37+ Keel bolts (fwd to aft):
> Nut   stud   torque3:1 multiplier
> 
> #1 - 1-1/21  255 =  85 x 3
> #2 - 2-3/16 1-1/2615 =  205 x 3
> #3 - 2-3/16 1-1/2615 =  205 x 3
> #4 - 2-3/16 1-1/2615 =  205 x 3
> #5 - 1 7/8   1-1/4465 =  155 x 3
> #6 - 2-3/161-1/  615 =  205 x 3
> #7 - 1-1/2  1255 =  85 x 3
> #8 - 3/4 1/2 38
> 
> Here are a few pictures.
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1G3HVN_jj0PYa0e5Otk9nwdqVoR4CYTCy
> 
> Tef-gel
> https://www.ultratef-gel.com/tef-gel/
> 
> Looks to me like from the description your bolt matches my #5 bolt.  I got 
> the sockets on ebay and yes most of them where ~$50.  I made sure to get deep 
> 6 point sockets 3/4" drive so that my breaker bar and torque multiplier would 
> fit.
> 
> Let me know if you have any other questions. 
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jun 26, 2018, 3:14 PM bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Help! I am working on the torque for my keel bolts; (1985 37 CB); I am having 
> difficulty in two areas; No 1. finding a deep well socket for tightening the 
> keel bolts; my problem seems to be the size of the bolt; (or more likely, my 
> poor measuring); I measure the bolts at 1 3/32; no one carries a socket for 
> that size; it seems to translate to between 27 and 28 metric, and the least 
> expensive deep well sockets I can find are about $30-50 bucks apiece;  can 
> anyone point me in the right direction? Am I measuring wrong? or is there a 
> standard size I should go with...
> No. 2; do the torque measurement numbers on the Photo album apply to 
> centerboard keels and as well as fixed keels?
> any help is appreciated...many thanks
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596:
> 
> 
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Roll pin size

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hi Tom

I also have a Harken roller and have been looking for roll pins.  On mine the 
pins are 1/8” dia and about an inch long.  Canadian Tire has 1/8X3/4.  Also 
Princess Auto as a package of 120 roll pins of various sizes.  Once I find a 1 
inch one I’ll have to file/grind to the right length.

I believe you will do more damage if you try to drill the roll pins.  They are 
very hard.  Use a new roll pin and clamp to press the old pin out.

Good luck.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jun 1, 2018, at 7:44 PM, T power via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi everyone, I need to replace a foil on my elderly harken furler. They are 
> joined with roll pins,
>  which will need to be drilled out. Anyone have any idea what size they would 
> be. Thanks for any help
> 
> Tom Power
> Invictus
> C&C 30 MK1
> Fredericton, NB
> ___
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Re: Stus-List installing a Lewmar V series windlass on a LF38

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Me too

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On May 23, 2018, at 9:06 PM, G Collins via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> More than one!
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>> On 2018-05-23 10:46 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
>> John,
>> 
>> One lister here installed a windlass shelf inside his anchor locker. Very 
>> impressive work.
>> 
>> http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2014/10/anchor-windlass-shelf.html 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 23, 2018, at 9:37 AM, John via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Hello I am looking for any suggestions on Where to position and mount a 
>>> Lewmar V-series windlass on the deck of a CCLF38 so the motor unit is 
>>> protected from saltwater and the gypsy directs the chain feed into the 
>>> anchor locker. Pictures would also be very helpful. 
>>> 
>>> Thanks 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Radar Reflector

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Joe

I was going to say the same.  Years ago Practical Sailor tested radar 
reflectors and those type tested poorly. Consider it a blessing now you can get 
a proper one.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On May 21, 2018, at 11:27 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Besides for everything else, those "reflectors" don't actually do anything 
> involving reflecting radar.
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> C&C 35 MK I
> 
>> On 5/21/2018 10:14 AM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
>> That is a possibility, but not a probably.the reflector was on the lower 
>> port shroudthere was no one in front of or behind me and no sign of 
>> anything that might have hit the mast or either the port or starboard side.
>> 
>> But that is what one of my marina neighbors suggested in jest!!!
>> 
>> Rob 
>> 
>>> On 2018-05-21 10:50 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Any of your neighbors doing some target practice with their 12-gauge 
>>> shotgun?   :^)
>>> 
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>> 
 On May 21, 2018, at 8:46 AM, robert via CnC-List  
 wrote:
 
 Just finished a sail on Saturday p.m., started the motor and was standing 
 in the cockpit with my back facing the bow when I heard a loud noise, what 
 sounded like a 12 gauge gun go off behind me..felt something hit me in 
 the back, turned around and saw 5 - 6 square pieces of aluminum on the 
 deck and on the cockpit sole.scared the heck out of me.for a 
 moment, had no idea what had just happened.
 
 Looked up to check things aloft and noticed my radar reflector (cylinder 
 shaped) which I had attached to my lower shroud with four (4) zip ties (2 
 each top and bottom)..had been doing that for a dozen years with no 
 issuesand it was goneall gonenothing left attached to the 
 shroud.not the two black end pieces of the reflector or any of the 4 
 plastic zip ties.only thing(s) that remained were 6 pieces of the 
 aluminum from inside the reflector that fell down.the rest must of 
 went overboard.
 
 I have never heard of this happening, ever..the radar reflector simply 
 exploded.And it was not full of water which might have expanded 
 because some years ago when I took it off the boat in the Fall, there was 
 a little water in it so I drilled a 3/16" hole in one side which always 
 then became the 'bottom' when attaching to the shroud in the Spring.
 
 Has this ever happened to anyone else?
 
 Can anyone explain how a cylinder type radar reflector can explode like 
 mine did?
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C&C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> 
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Re: Stus-List Vessel documentation renewal

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Marek

I believe licensing in a provincial thing, numbers.  TC registers vessels.  I’m 
with Rob I registered with TC in 2005.  To do so you have to do a vessel search 
to ensure the name you use has not already been registered.  A friend tried to 
register “Amazing Grace” and had to go with Amazing Grace XX to get a unique 
name.  Cost of registering was $250.00 at the time.  Recommended if transiting 
foreign countries.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 shoal draft
Long Sault

> On May 18, 2018, at 9:51 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Rob,
>  
> Are you sure you “registered”? Normally, you get the boat only “licensed” 
> with TC. Though, in Halifax, you may want to register, as I bet you sail 
> outside of the Canadian waters.
>  
> When you license, you have to renew every 5 years, if I remember correctly. 
> But I don’t think there is any cost to it (after the initial $30 or so).
>  
> Marek
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: robert via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, May 18, 2018 09:30
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert
> Subject: Stus-List Vessel documentation renewal
>  
> Mike:
> 
> I registered my boat in 2006 with Transport Canada and have never heard from 
> them since.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S. 
> 
>> On 2018-05-17 1:50 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
>> Hi Dennis
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> It seems a bit different in Canada.  I received something in mail from 
>> Transport Canada that I was not expecting.  Upon opening it was the new 
>> certificate of registration.  They issue one every three years.  I did not 
>> even request it – it just came automatically.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> The even better news is that they also did not require me to pay anything.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> Persistence V
>> 
>> Halifax, NS
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2018 1:44 PM
>> To: CnClist
>> Cc: Dennis C.
>> Subject: Stus-List Vessel documentation renewal - those scammers again
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Well, gee.  I just got my "courtesy" renewal notice from "Maritime 
>> Documentation Center".  I promptly emailed them an "official notice of 
>> shame".  :)
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> For those who are new the list a while and haven't seen our derision at 
>> these folks, let me elaborate.  The "Maritime Documentation Center" is NOT 
>> the US Coast Guard's Vessel Documentation Center (VDC).  It is a third party 
>> entity who will gladly charge you three times the fee of the VDC for doing 
>> what you can do on the VDC's website in under 5 minutes.  It's not illegal, 
>> just irritating.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> They simply send you an official looking courtesy notice for renewal.  It 
>> may show up slightly before the USCG VDC's real renewal notice.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Do not be fooled.  The VDC fee for renewal is $26.  Pay no more.  The 
>> official VDC website is here:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> https://www.dco.uscg.mil/Our-Organization/Deputy-for-Operations-Policy-and-Capabilities-DCO-D/National-Vessel-Documentation-Center/
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> 
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Keel treatment

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Richard

A few years back when I fixed the C&C smile I took my keel down to the bare 
lead.  At that time I read some where that epoxy wouldn’t stick to the lead 
unless it was free of oxidation.  Hard to do with lead.  I also learned that 
the best way to apply the epoxy and get it to bond was to use a wire brush.  I 
put a wire brush on my drill and polished the lead and immediately applied the 
epoxy.  Once the base coat was on I just followed normal epoxy instructions.  
Did that probably 10 years ago and when I applied the bottom paint yesterday 
everything looked liked it did way back when.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On May 3, 2018, at 5:11 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> To the group; I have removed all of the old bottom paint and some old faring 
> compound from my keel and it is now down to bare lead; what should I use for 
> a sealant/primer on the bare metal, before putting on a barrier coat, and 
> what is the best method for application?  I have also taken the hull to 
> gelcoat and plan to put on a barrier coat and new bottom paint...any other 
> ideas...? Many thanks...
> 
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; on the hard...
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> To: C&C List 
> Cc: Josh Muckley 
> Sent: Thu, May 3, 2018 1:33 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2gmf
> 
> Send us a picture.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> On Thu, May 3, 2018, 12:21 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Seem to be loosing some fuel. The tank is good. There is no leak from the 
> tank to the primary filter. It then goes to the engine. No leak there. Pardon 
> my ignorance but there is a round attachment with a gasket on the top that 
> seems to be leaking. There are some small  screws? bolts? holding it down. It 
> seems to be oozing from there. Can I tighten them leaving everything together 
> or do I need to take the mixing elbow off?
> Yanmar 2gmf.
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Rocha

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

No debate here.  Everyone knows that CQRs belong in the smelter. No information 
on your problem though.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Apr 29, 2018, at 1:35 PM, Brien Sadler via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Quick question to all the 35-3 owners. Does anyone have a Rocna anchor and if 
> so does the standard Rocna fit or do I need the Vulcan to fit that anchor 
> roller weldment? Thanks for the help. 
> 
> P.S. I’m not looking to get into the anchor debate I did a bunch of research 
> none are perfect and anything I feel is better than the tired CQR that I have 
> now.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Brien Sadler
> S/V TAZ 
> 1987 C&C 35-3
> 
> Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List EPIRB testing and registration

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

No I call to have it repaired and updated and I was advised that the technology 
was too old and wouldn’t be worth it.  So it got crushed.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Apr 12, 2018, at 9:31 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> ...and re-register it.
> 
> David F. Risch
> 
> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC
> 
> (401) 419-4650 
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Mike via CnC-List 
> 
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2018 5:05 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mike
> Subject: Re: Stus-List EPIRB testing and registration
>  
> Reminds me of the time we were visiting the Etobicoke Yacht Club.  We were 
> getting ready to leave and we kept hearing this beep, beep and couldn’t 
> figure out where it was coming from.  Before we could get away some friends 
> stopped by and we had a coffee.  I ask them if they could hear that annoying 
> beep.  They could but they also could not determine where it was coming from. 
>  While we were enjoying our coffee the DO came knocking and asked if we new 
> the coast guard was looking for us and apparently everyone on Lake Ontario as 
> well.  We didn’t.  He informed us that our EPIRB had gone off .  Upon 
> investigation I found that the little pill that dissolves in water had 
> deteriorated.  I immediately pulled the battery, and hailed the coast guard 
> tp call off the posse.
> 
>  
> 
> What’s amazing is that I had never register the EPRIB when I bought 
> Persuasion.  The coast guard called the previous owner who gave them my name.
> 
>  
> 
> So thank you Marek for bringing this to everyone’s attention.
> 
>  
> 
> Conclusion; if you have an EPRIB or any other such devise and are not 
> actively sailing SHUT IT OFF.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Mike
> 
>  
> 
> C&C 37
> 
> Shoal draft
> 
> From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
> Sent: April 11, 2018 12:43 PM
> To: C&C List
> Cc: Marek Dziedzic
> Subject: Stus-List EPIRB testing and registration
> 
>  
> 
> This might be of interest to some of us.
> 
>  
> 
> Apparently there are quite a few false alarms for EPIRB (and similar 
> systems). there was an interesting blurb regarding this problem at Sail Feed:
> 
>  
> 
> https://www.sailfeed.com/2018/04/its-406-epirb-day/?utm_source=sail-enewsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_content=textlink&utm_campaign=enewsletter_SAIL180410
> 
>  
> 
> Marek
> 
>  
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Re-sleeving winches

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

NEVER EVER EVER ship to Canada by UPS.  They know how to charge.  When ordering 
from the US if it is going to be shipped by UPS I have it delivered to a UPS 
store in the US.  That’s the advantage of living within 30 minutes of the 
border.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Mar 17, 2018, at 5:52 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am not trying to be a smart aleck.  Seriously wanting education.  Your 
> import taxes in Canada.  Are those like tariffs?  On everything or just some 
> things.  Inquiring mind
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> 
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> 
> 
> 
> On Saturday, March 17, 2018 mike amirault via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> There are no west marine stores in Canada. For a Canadian to pay US funds 
> plus shipping plus import taxes plus brokerage fees is out of the question.
> 
> Thanks anyway. I’ll do my shopping at the Binnacle.
> 
>  
> 
> Mike Amirault
> 
> C&C33ii Lovely Cruise
> 
> SMSC
> 
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Re: Stus-List Materials for a hard bimini?

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hi Joel

I tried that a few years ago with my dodger.  I used the old frame for the 
shape and FRP from Home Depot.  Tried laminating two pieces of FRP together.  
It wasn’t rigid enough.  Also someone told me they are made with polyester 
resin not epoxy.  

If you google hard dodger I’m sure there will be lots of sites showing what has 
been done.

Good luck keep us posted.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Mar 16, 2018, at 11:47 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm going to try to build a hard bimini.  The plan is to trace the shape of 
> the frame onto pieces of 2x6, cut them to shape and then screw a piece of 
> cheap plywood to the 2x6s to have the right shape.  I'm looking for something 
> flexible that will give the underside a nice smooth finish than can be 
> expoyed to fiberglass and painted.  The rest will be glass mat, foam core, 
> epoxy, more mat etc.  I know I could just add more epoxy and sand it, but I 
> rather avoid all that labor.
> 
> Any suggestions on materials for the finished underside?  
> 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 Mast weight

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

I don’t know what yours weighs but mine is 399 lbs.  I know this for a fact 
because the mast crane at the yacht club has a maximum capacity of 400 lbs.  LOL

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Mar 13, 2018, at 1:28 PM, gerald field via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have a idea of the approximate weight of the mast on a C&C 30. I 
> am going to buy a chain hoist that i will mount on a frame for moving my mast 
> from its winter stands onto a mast dolly at the club and i want to make sure 
> i get a appropriately sized one.
> Gerald Field
> C&C 30 Vagabond
> Midland Bay Sailing Club
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: need advice with 1983 C&C 37

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Agreed.  Years ago my broker wanted me to look at one.  I declined because of 
distance.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Mar 5, 2018, at 7:18 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Someone took a saw to a deep draft model? I have seen one such 37 for sale 
> some time ago. Mars Metal will sell you a bulb to bolt on after the 
> keel-ectomy.
> Joe
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ken Heaton 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2018 6:39 PM
> To: cnc-list
> Cc: Ken Heaton
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List need advice with 1983 C&C 37
>  
> I see there are a couple of keels listed on Sailboat Data for the C&C 37.  
> None at 5' 5" though:
>  
> http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=2384
>  
> Keel/cb model also available.
> Draft (Board Down): 8.40'/2.56m
> Draft (Board Up): 4.60'/1.40m
> Displacement: 14725 lbs./ 6679 kgs.
> Also available with fixed shoal draft keel: 6.00'/1.83m
>  
> On 4 March 2018 at 19:35, Ken Heaton  wrote:
> As to the draft, the C&C 37 Brochure lists it at 6' 7" (or 6' 8") but there 
> was a Keel / Centreboard version that would draw less than that.
>  
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/37foot/37b1pg04.htm
>  
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/brochures/37foot/37b2pg04.htm
>  
> As for the cored hull and deck, get a good surveyor, one who knows what he is 
> doing around cored hulls.
>  
> The vast majority of cored C&C hulls and decks have little to no issues.  But 
> a few out there are nightmares, usually due to improperly done penetrations 
> for thru-hulls or deck fittings or penetrations from the interior, down in 
> the bilges into the cores that were done improperly.
>  
> The surveyor should at the minimum have a moisture meter, and know how to use 
> it and should also go over the hull and deck with a plastic hammer to sound 
> it out.  I paid a surveyor to do just that first before we spent the extra 
> money of a full survey back when we were buying.  The cores were dry.
>  
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C&C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
>  
> https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/salazar.html
>  
>  
> On 4 March 2018 at 19:06, ROBERT MROZ via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> Hi everyone. I need some advice from the owners  about  1983  C&C 37  Draft 
> 5' 5".The boat looks very  good and clean ( for the age)  from provided 
> pictures and description ( 5'5" draft ! I wondering if this is misprint). 
> Well maintained ( broker words). What Should I look for and how the boat 
> sails ( stiff , tender etc.) or I should stay away  from 34 years old balsa 
> cored Hull and deck ? Thank you for  any  input and advice.
> Sincerely, Robert M
> 
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> 
>  
>  
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce

Your bolts don’t look original.  Mine are countersunk heads.  Mine are aluminum 
about seven inches long with stainless nuts.  When I took mine apart one on the 
bolts galled up and I had to drill the head out.  Edson no longer stocks that 
type of bolt so I went with a stainless hex head bolt like yours.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jan 24, 2018, at 12:52 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Chuck,
> 
> You're right as to the amount of wheel travel, and what that would do to 
> steering if I turn it that much when out sailing.  I also agree as to the 
> keyway, and to Michael's comment, the key is in place and intact, as I 
> removed the radial plate for inspection.  On the C&C 37/40+, the idler 
> pulleys are not below deck, they fit in a very small space I can access after 
> taking out a removable triangular panel in the cockpit.  So, the parts won't 
> drop down into the bilge, but it would still be a bad outcome.  :(  
> 
> I'll have to figure out how hard it is to remove the assembly entirely.  I'm 
> not sure currently if the bolts penetrate all the way down below deck, or are 
> accessible once I remove the panel behind the wheel.  
> 
> You can kind of get an idea by looking at the picture here:  
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0
> 
> 
> 847-404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 12:38 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
> 
> Michael,
> A 20 degree deviation on wheel centering is an AWFUL lot of wheel travel with 
> no explanation.  I suspect Bruce’s boat has a 44” diameter wheel which means 
> at 20 degrees of travel, the Turk’s head knot would have moved roughly 7 ½” 
> to one side or the other.  Generally speaking, if my hand moves the wheel 
> that much, the boat changes course dramatically, even with a big wheel.
> Most C&C Yachts had radial drives that are held in place on the rudder shaft 
> by an interference fit of the two halves of the radial, machined undersized 
> by .003” for a machinist clamping tolerance and then a keyway is cut in the 
> radial drive to accommodate a stainless key that locks the drive wheel in 
> place on the rudder.   Generally, even if the boat is run aground on the 
> rudder, the radial drive wheel or rudder post may bend, but it won’t slip on 
> the post unless it is not clamped tightly at the hub of the wheel.
> I too suspect a weakened idler assembly that is allowing the idlers to pivot 
> after tensioning.  The next step is the idler wheel letting go and dropping 
> various bits into to the bilge whilst the cable goes completely slack.  Boat 
> handling suffers when this happens..
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 Landfall 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
> Brown via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:09 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Michael Brown 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
>  
> If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
> Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial 
> wheel.
> 20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
> 
>  
> Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC) 
> From: Bruce Whitmore  
> 
> Hello all, 
> 
> OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... 
> I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
> wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came 
> back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were 
> talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my 
> autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to 
> approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment 
> bolts through the radial drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 
> notches on the wheel sprocket. 
> All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
> find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these 
> adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
> relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce 
> the feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out 
> sailing. 
> 
> During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
> little loose, and tightened those.? 
> 
> Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the 
> cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on 
> the sprocket. 
> Thoughts? 
> Bruce Whitmore 
> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile) 
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 

Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Has anyone ever rode a bicycle with a rusty chain.  Everything can be fine then 
all of a sudden the chain derails, with varying results.  Those cross bars can 
do some damage. Check every inch on the chain and de-rust and lubricate as 
necessary.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jan 24, 2018, at 12:28 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Michael,
> A 20 degree deviation on wheel centering is an AWFUL lot of wheel travel with 
> no explanation.  I suspect Bruce’s boat has a 44” diameter wheel which means 
> at 20 degrees of travel, the Turk’s head knot would have moved roughly 7 ½” 
> to one side or the other.  Generally speaking, if my hand moves the wheel 
> that much, the boat changes course dramatically, even with a big wheel.
> Most C&C Yachts had radial drives that are held in place on the rudder shaft 
> by an interference fit of the two halves of the radial, machined undersized 
> by .003” for a machinist clamping tolerance and then a keyway is cut in the 
> radial drive to accommodate a stainless key that locks the drive wheel in 
> place on the rudder.   Generally, even if the boat is run aground on the 
> rudder, the radial drive wheel or rudder post may bend, but it won’t slip on 
> the post unless it is not clamped tightly at the hub of the wheel.
> I too suspect a weakened idler assembly that is allowing the idlers to pivot 
> after tensioning.  The next step is the idler wheel letting go and dropping 
> various bits into to the bilge whilst the cable goes completely slack.  Boat 
> handling suffers when this happens..
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 Landfall 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
> Brown via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 11:09 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Michael Brown 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?
>  
> If the radial wheel was slipping on the rudder post it could cause that issue.
> Maybe use a sharpie and put a line down the rudder post and onto the radial 
> wheel.
> 20º is not much movement, you may require a fine line.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
> 
>  
> Date: Wed, 24 Jan 2018 01:54:12 + (UTC) 
> From: Bruce Whitmore  
> 
> Hello all, 
> 
> OK, I think I have a weird thing going here... 
> I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
> wheel is centered.? I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came 
> back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.? By the way, were 
> talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder. ? After installing my 
> autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to 
> approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment 
> bolts through the radial drive wheel.? This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 
> notches on the wheel sprocket. 
> All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
> find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.? During these 
> adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
> relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce 
> the feel of the wheel.? I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out 
> sailing. 
> 
> During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
> little loose, and tightened those.? 
> 
> Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the 
> cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on 
> the sprocket. 
> Thoughts? 
> Bruce Whitmore 
> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile) 
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Tell me about the 35 MKIII-CB

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Sean

If I may chime in here although I have a 37.  In the last 12 years I have 
probably put the board down 3 times.  My board is currently out on the boat.  
Has been out since 2015.  This is the year to reinstall?  Any way I thinking of 
reinstalling and pinning it up and calling it a shoal draft.

As to maintenance you will have to replace the pendant every few years and the 
thimble at the board end isn’t available at the chandelier.  Got mine locally 
made at a machine shop.

The 35 may be different but I’m sure the pendant is a maintenance issue.

I lived your dream in 14/15.  Check out my blog.  Www.persuasion37.com
 

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jan 16, 2018, at 1:37 PM, Sean Richardson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Calling on the collective C&C brain trust!
> 
>  
> 
> I’m giving serious consideration to a 35 MKIII CB and would appreciate any 
> advice on what to look out for with the MKIII in general as well specifics of 
> the center board version if anyone has any.
> 
>  
> 
> The boat is single owner freshwater and by all accounts so far appears to be 
> in very good condition. She checks off many of the requirement boxes for our 
> next boat but I’m a little torn on the CB with main concerns being how it 
> effects performance/stability as well as required maintenance.
> 
>  
> 
> I’ve heard the center board version is quite tender. We eventually plan to 
> sail out the St. Lawrence to the Maritimes one summer, park the boat, then 
> return the following season to continue on down the US East coast (ICW) to 
> Florida then on to the Bahamas. The board up shallow draft will be good for 
> the ICW and Bahamas portion but how would this boat fare in the more 
> challenging conditions of the St Lawrence and Maritimes?
> 
>  
> 
> My other concern is access to the centerboard area for maintenance.  I would 
> assume the slot and pivot area will require frequent attention to clean 
> marine growth and avoid jamming the board in either the up or down position. 
> And how difficult would it be if one had to replace the SS lifting strop with 
> the boat in the water?
> 
>  
> 
> The more I think about the center board the more troubles I see down the road.
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List East Coast weather

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Marek

You remind me of this skit.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=wkDvqQKGgDA

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jan 6, 2018, at 11:50 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Quite bitter. I chickened out and skipped this morning skiing – it was -26 C 
> an 40-50 km/h wind. It was much nicer at home.
>  
> Mid-week it went up to -8 C and everyone around was talking about a heat wave.
>  
> Keep warm.
>  
> The good news is that the days are getting longer…
>  
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Friday, January 5, 2018 5:28:54 PM
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Subject: Stus-List East Coast weather
>  
> Bitter cold in NE, cold down South, no snow in the Rockies, T-shirts in 
> Alaska?  Anybody else confused?
> 
> I normally just smile at the threads on hauling out and winterizing but this 
> year is different.  The only thing I do to winterize Touche' is to depressure 
> the pressure water system, pull out the cockpit shower to drain it and ensure 
> there is some air in the spray handle.  Couldn't get over to Pensacola to do 
> that.  Suspect it froze and cracked.  Ordered new one just in case.  :(
> 
> Hope everyone fares OK in the cold.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Fri, Jan 5, 2018 at 4:07 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 5 degrees in washington nc.  Looking to stay warm.
>> Jim schwartz
>> 38 lf
>> SEA YA!
>> washington nc 
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
>> Date: 1/5/18 2:47 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella
>> 
>> Currently 5 degrees F in Erie.  With about seven feet of snow.
>>  
>> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, January 05, 2018 1:57 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Joel Aronson
>> Subject: Stus-List Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella
>>  
>> All,
>>  
>> Its 20 degrees F in Annapolis.  I'm looking for indoor projects.  One is to 
>> wrap the LifeSling bag in Sunbrella before the bag disintegrates. 
>>  
>> Any advice on an adhesive?
>>  
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
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>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill adaptors ABYC

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Here is a simple calculator.  https://www.mathopenref.com/cylindervolume.html

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jan 2, 2018, at 12:39 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Steve and Joe: that's the best news I've heard all year...(ha,ha) so, do I 
> send this information to the surveyor, and request an amendment to the survey 
> recommendations...or go directly to my insurance company? Thanks again
> 
> Richard
> s/v/Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Steve Thomas 
> Sent: Tue, Jan 2, 2018 11:45 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill adaptors ABYC
> 
> There should be some sort of marking on the tank, but consider that the vast 
> majority of SCUBA tanks are around 80 cubic feet. If the tank is around that 
> size, and it probably is, then it is likely ok. Worth checking anyway. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> 
>  bushmark4--- via CnC-List  wrote: 
> 
> Steve, thank you for the info; , not having any experience with CNG, how do I 
> tell if my tank is less than 100 cubic feet? 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Richard
> s/v/Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Steve Thomas 
> Sent: Tue, Jan 2, 2018 11:27 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List CNG tank refill adaptors ABYC
> 
> CNG cylinders do not have to be in a separate locker if the total installed 
> capacity of the tanks is less than 100 cubic feet. 
> 
> https://law.resource.org/pub/us/cfr/ibr/001/abyc.A-22.1993.pdf
> 
> Steve Thomas 
> C&C27 MKIII
> C&C36 
> 
>  bushmark4--- via CnC-List  wrote: 
> 
> I have a CNG stove which came with my boat (1985 C&C 37): it has the same CNG 
> cylinder being discussed: my problem is that in a recent insurance survey 
> (June 2017), the surveyor made it a point to state that the cylinder must be 
> stored in a separate locker:
> 
> 
> *7.5 As per ABYC A-22, secure the CNG tank (cylinder) in a protective 
> dedicated locker, rigidly
> secured to protect them from movement, readily accessible for operation of 
> valves and testing
> for leakage, vaportight to the hull interior, provided with a means to latch 
> its cover, vented to
> the atmosphere, and located so that with its cover open or closed, escaping 
> vapor cannot reach
> the bilges, machinery spaces, accommodations, or other enclosed spaces.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my Insurance company then required me to remove the cylinder from the boat in 
> order to continue the policy: has anyone had to deal with this? If so, what 
> did you do with the cylinder, and what was your response form the Insurance 
> company? Thanks 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> Richard N. Bush
> s/v/Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
> 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List iNAV

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Agreed!  When we went south I had four electronic devices running various 
navigation programs plus at least three independent compasses.  Andrew is 
correct mix this with good seamanship and one can have a successful cruise.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Dec 28, 2017, at 10:41 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Well, as one who regularly uses an iPad as a nav tool, I guess my nav skills 
> are inappropriate! I admit to (boast of) being something of a traditionalist 
> when it comes to all things maritime--it took me until ten years ago to leave 
> my sextant behind when I'd head offshore--but neither am I a Luddite. It's a 
> foolish navigator who doesn't use every tool at his disposal to keep his 
> vessel safe. For a couple of decades celestial navigation was the only tool I 
> had available, which made landfalls quite a tricky business. Especially 
> finding Bermuda on a hazy day. And in those days the BVI had few if any 
> lights on the north shore at night, so we'd heave to until dawn so we could 
> avoid all the reefs.
> The technology is good and when you mix it with good seamanship can be used 
> very successfully. Part of good seamanship is not to completely trust any one 
> input when it comes to navigation; along the coast I will check bearings and 
> depth, for instance, to be sure I'm getting good info from my iPad. 
> 
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On Dec 28, 2017, at 09:44, Persuasion37 via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Sure let’s get our abacus out and do some plotting.  Oh ya don’t forget the 
>> sextant.
>>  
>> Mike
>> S/V Persuasion
>> C&C 37 Keel/CB
>> Long Sault
>>  
>> From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2017 9:37 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Marek Dziedzic
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List iNAV
>>  
>> shall we start a discussion on how inappropriate it is to use an iPad as a 
>> navigation tool? (;-)
>>  
>> Merry after Christmas
>>  
>> Marek
>>  
>> From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2017 09:17
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Russ & Melody
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List iNAV
>>  
>> 
>> Blame the navigator, not the tools... and if the navigator is a tool then it 
>> still gets the blame.
>> 
>> At the risk of sounding like a techno-peasant, is the iNav another apple 
>> thingy? I'm still stuck on OpenCPN  or  Visual Navigator (without a dongle) 
>> on an XP box .
>> 
>> 
>> Cheers, Russ
>> Sweet 35 mk-1
>>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List C&C 34/36 kitchen shelf

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

I have to respectfully disagree with everyone.  On Persuasion there are three 
tubes.  One at the chart table, one at the sink and one at the saloon table for 
the centre board pendant.  The latter is not structural.  The first two go 
through the cabin roof with a plate welded to the top and two 1/4” bolts 
(studs) welded to this plate that pass through the cabin roof.  The other end 
is bolted to the respective plywood with two 1/4” bolts with backing plates.  A 
little overkill for something decorative. 

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2017 9:58 AM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ken Heaton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 34/36 kitchen shelf

The similar tube in the 37/40 just ends under the sink and is really just a 
handhold. 

Ken H.

On 28 December 2017 at 10:54, Persuasion37 via CnC-List  
wrote:

  I always thought the tubes were structural.  You know hold the cabin roof up?

  Mike
  S/V Persuasion
  C&C 37 Keel/CB
  Long Sault

  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
  Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2017 9:30 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Josh Muckley 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 34/36 kitchen shelf

  You'll have the usual finish work to consider when you get the shelf removed. 
 What will yo do with the metal tube?  If you remove the tube you will be left 
with a hole in the ceiling and a hole in the counter.  If you leave the tube 
you will have exposed holes in the tube where screws were used to anchor the 
shelf.  These holes in the tube will need dressed or decorated.  What about the 
wood on the remaining cabinets?   It is likely that a silhouette of the removed 
shelf will remain.  You'll also have screw holes in the wood which will need 
attention.  None of these asthetic details are show stoppers just things you 
may not have considered.  Good luck.  

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons, MD 




  On Wed, Dec 27, 2017, 3:55 PM Ben Sutton 1 via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I am considering removing the kitchen shelf next to the sink in my C&C 34+. 
It is the one with the metal post running through one end and attached to the 
cabinetry at the other. My thinking is as follows:
1. It completely obscures the counter underneath and makes it more or less 
impossible to use the plate tray behind that counter under the shelf.
2. It is sometimes useful to put things on with the ability to slide a 
chopping board (and only a chopping board) underneath it.
3. I notice that later models of this design eg. 1991, do not have the 
shelf. I suspect there is a good reason for this.

Has anyone removed this shelf on their boat?
If so how do you do it?
Did you regret it afterwards or did it turn out to be a good thing?

Any input much appreciated.

Ben Sutton
Evangeline C&C 34+ 1990
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Re: Stus-List iNAV

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Sure let’s get our abacus out and do some plotting.  Oh ya don’t forget the 
sextant.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2017 9:37 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List iNAV

shall we start a discussion on how inappropriate it is to use an iPad as a 
navigation tool? (;-)

Merry after Christmas

Marek

From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2017 09:17
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List iNAV


Blame the navigator, not the tools... and if the navigator is a tool then it 
still gets the blame.

At the risk of sounding like a techno-peasant, is the iNav another apple 
thingy? I'm still stuck on OpenCPN  or  Visual Navigator (without a dongle) on 
an XP box .


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1





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Re: Stus-List C&C 34/36 kitchen shelf

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

I always thought the tubes were structural.  You know hold the cabin roof up?

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2017 9:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 34/36 kitchen shelf

You'll have the usual finish work to consider when you get the shelf removed.  
What will yo do with the metal tube?  If you remove the tube you will be left 
with a hole in the ceiling and a hole in the counter.  If you leave the tube 
you will have exposed holes in the tube where screws were used to anchor the 
shelf.  These holes in the tube will need dressed or decorated.  What about the 
wood on the remaining cabinets?   It is likely that a silhouette of the removed 
shelf will remain.  You'll also have screw holes in the wood which will need 
attention.  None of these asthetic details are show stoppers just things you 
may not have considered.  Good luck.  

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 




On Wed, Dec 27, 2017, 3:55 PM Ben Sutton 1 via CnC-List  
wrote:

  I am considering removing the kitchen shelf next to the sink in my C&C 34+. 
It is the one with the metal post running through one end and attached to the 
cabinetry at the other. My thinking is as follows:
  1. It completely obscures the counter underneath and makes it more or less 
impossible to use the plate tray behind that counter under the shelf.
  2. It is sometimes useful to put things on with the ability to slide a 
chopping board (and only a chopping board) underneath it.
  3. I notice that later models of this design eg. 1991, do not have the shelf. 
I suspect there is a good reason for this.

  Has anyone removed this shelf on their boat?
  If so how do you do it?
  Did you regret it afterwards or did it turn out to be a good thing?

  Any input much appreciated.

  Ben Sutton
  Evangeline C&C 34+ 1990
  ___

  Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 34/36 kitchen shelf

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

I always thought the tubes were structural.  You know hold the cabin roof up?

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2017 9:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 34/36 kitchen shelf

You'll have the usual finish work to consider when you get the shelf removed.  
What will yo do with the metal tube?  If you remove the tube you will be left 
with a hole in the ceiling and a hole in the counter.  If you leave the tube 
you will have exposed holes in the tube where screws were used to anchor the 
shelf.  These holes in the tube will need dressed or decorated.  What about the 
wood on the remaining cabinets?   It is likely that a silhouette of the removed 
shelf will remain.  You'll also have screw holes in the wood which will need 
attention.  None of these asthetic details are show stoppers just things you 
may not have considered.  Good luck.  

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 




On Wed, Dec 27, 2017, 3:55 PM Ben Sutton 1 via CnC-List  
wrote:

  I am considering removing the kitchen shelf next to the sink in my C&C 34+. 
It is the one with the metal post running through one end and attached to the 
cabinetry at the other. My thinking is as follows:
  1. It completely obscures the counter underneath and makes it more or less 
impossible to use the plate tray behind that counter under the shelf.
  2. It is sometimes useful to put things on with the ability to slide a 
chopping board (and only a chopping board) underneath it.
  3. I notice that later models of this design eg. 1991, do not have the shelf. 
I suspect there is a good reason for this.

  Has anyone removed this shelf on their boat?
  If so how do you do it?
  Did you regret it afterwards or did it turn out to be a good thing?

  Any input much appreciated.

  Ben Sutton
  Evangeline C&C 34+ 1990
  ___

  Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List baby stay on 1982 34

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Ditto

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Oct 25, 2017, at 9:21 PM, G Collins via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I find the baby stay question an interesting one.  We've got the adjustable 
> babystay, but don't race, so usually it gets tensioned at the beginning of 
> the season and then at some random time during the summer someone kicks the 
> clutch, and eventually I discover that it isn't tensioned.  
> Would it be worth a survey?  I'm curious how many owners actually have and 
> actively use the baby stay.
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>> On 2017-10-25 10:00 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
>> Before investing lots of time, effort and money in reattaching your baby 
>> stay to whatever, give some thought to a larger questionis it necessary 
>> on your boat? While I am not a naval architect and have not recently stayed 
>> in a Holiday Inn Express :>), unless your mast is 'bendy' and absolutely 
>> requires it you might be able to "...forgetaboutit ...", particularly if 
>> your spreaders are not swept aft. Many masts of your boat vintage were more 
>> like aluminum telephone poles which would never bend fore and aft, baby stay 
>> notwithstanding. My 1995 36 XL came with a baby stay and a relatively bendy 
>> mast. The spreaders are not swept at all. Given that I have NO plans to ever 
>> take her seriously off-shore and I sail/race in the protected waters of the 
>> NC sounds and the PITA the baby stay is in tacking upwind and removing it 
>> for flying the kite, my sailmaker recommend it's removal, which I did and 
>> have never looked back. Now if I planned to go offshore, I would put it back 
>> on board for the SOLE reason of preventing mast pumping fore and aft--that 
>> is one gravity storm I prefer to miss!
>> Of course your use and the design of your boat might make its use mandatory 
>> but in my case, I am pretty sure it was added solely to stabilize mast 
>> pumping fore and aft. I avoid such pumping by sailing for pleasure in 
>> protected waters and  have never missed it (but the attachment below and rod 
>> as well as the rolled up stay are kept on board anyway!
>> 
>> FWIW
>> 
>> Charlie Nelson
>> 1995 C&C 36XL/kcb
>> Water Phantom
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Oct 25, 2017, at 8:14 PM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> My baby stay comes down to a pad eye on the top of the cabin and is then 
>>> attached to a piece of rod rigging just in front of the head in the v-berth 
>>> area. I don't have a track on mine.
>>> 
>>> If there is any stainless bracket or welding, I can't see it. There is a 
>>> lot of fiberglass covering it all. I can't even tell by the hole that's  
>>> left if there really is a wood  stringer in there. Im not sure how much 
>>> glass I would need to cut away to get to where any bracket or plate may be.
>>> 
>>> I suppose I could cut some of it away and have a new plate and stud welded 
>>> together. Then lag bolt it to the stringer and cover with glass?
>>> 
>>> Makes me a little nervous though to go cutting away like that while it's in 
>>> the water. But I want to make sure it is strong enough whatever I do.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> Kevin
>>> 
 On Wed, Oct 25, 2017, 6:42 PM Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Have you thought of using a padeye screwed to stringer, friction ring, and 
 dyneema? Would be a lot cheaper (and lighter) and you could DIY it. Would 
 serve same function just as well. Don't have time to get into it, but look 
 around at what is possible since probably would be done this way today on 
 a new boat. Cheaper, easier, better imo. 
 
 (my babystay attachment also runs parallel to bulkhead, perp to water line 
 in v berth.
 
 2 cents
 
> On Wed, Oct 25, 2017 at 3:23 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Chuck, et al,
> 
> I don’t know if it is the same on your model but be careful about 
> assuming that the track tie-down follows the angle of the baby-stay. At 
> least that is my take-away from your description of it being “far in 
> front of the keel” means.
> 
> With  the 37’, on the aft end of the baby-stay track there is a plate 
> that the top of the tie-down (Navtec rod rigging…) is attached to. The 
> rod descends directly down parallel to the interior bulkheads 
> (perpendicular to the waterline) to the stud that was glassed into the 
> central stringer. The load is not carried forward but rather resides at 
> the rear of the traveler track.
> 
> Years ago I delivered a 34’ from Ft. Lauderdale to Kingston, Jamaica. As 
> I recall, it had the same setup that the 37’ does.
> 
> Also, I’ll reiterate, the bolt does not go through the hull. Repairs to 
> this can be easily be made while the boat is in the water.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s O

Re: Stus-List To Rod Stright

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hey Stu

What’s up?

Thanks
Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Oct 22, 2017, at 6:38 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I got it.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Oct 22, 2017, at 12:38 PM, Greg Sutherland via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>> I did Mike.
>> Greg
>> 
>> On Oct 22, 2017, at 1:20 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> Did everyone get this email.
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> PERSUASION
>>> C&C 37 K/CB
>>> Long Sault
>>> 
>>>>> On Oct 22, 2017, at 10:33 AM, Stu via CnC-List  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Your email address bounced 2 messages from me.  Do you have another 
>>>> address?
>>>> 
>>>> Stu
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ___
>>>> 
>>>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. 
>>>>  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
>>>> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send 
>>>> contribution --   
>>>> https://nam03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=02%7C01%7Cbluenosesailing%40hotmail.com%7Cf3b2dbd3e9924672561208d51968d46e%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636442860382326645&sdata=JGGvNr5oy2TXq5WYjLlTX8zb8rOyjx3RE2jjQbJapvA%3D&reserved=0
>>>> 
>>>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
>>> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
>>> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send 
>>> contribution --   
>>> https://nam03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=02%7C01%7Cbluenosesailing%40hotmail.com%7Cf3b2dbd3e9924672561208d51968d46e%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636442860382326645&sdata=JGGvNr5oy2TXq5WYjLlTX8zb8rOyjx3RE2jjQbJapvA%3D&reserved=0
>>> 
>>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
>> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
>> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send 
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List To Rod Stright

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Did everyone get this email.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Oct 22, 2017, at 10:33 AM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Your email address bounced 2 messages from me.  Do you have another address?
> 
> Stu
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hi Bob

Here are a few pictures of my board.  Approx weight is 300 - 400 lbs.

https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0B1YsbvO03cClZkhpejlvbFNIUTQ

Any questions give me a shout.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Oct 10, 2017, at 10:46 AM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I've read Donald Sebastian's earlier thread and hope it's OK to start a new, 
> but related, one.
> 
> I'm looking at a 1983 C&C 37-P K/CB. 
> (The "P" stands for Project Boat).
> 
> One of the issues is that the centerboard pennant is likely unattached.
> When the boat was hauled ~5 months ago, the centerboard descended partially 
> (I'm told). This makes me think the pin is in place and that barnacles 
> prevented a full extension. 
> 
> 1) Is the centerboard fiberglass? Is it heavy?
> 2) If pin replacement is needed is that a big job?
> 3) How are the centerboard and trunk kept clean? Floss?  :-)
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> --Bob M
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water Tanks - now source for Kracor Tanks

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Kracor's catalogue.

https://www.kracor.com/support/holdingtanks.pdf

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Sep 20, 2017, at 7:18 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> That seems odd; I purchased my holding tank directly from Kracor without any 
> issue..I just called them up and ordered...
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Rick Brass 
> Sent: Tue, Sep 19, 2017 10:18 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Water Tanks - now source for Kracor Tanks
> 
> Long story short: both of the water tanks on my 38 have cracks in the water 
> fill fitting. The tanks are mold number 5060, and model number 75330 (which I 
> presume indicates the location of the vent, fill, and drain fittings.
>  
> The cracks radiate out from the threaded fitting. The Kracor catalog says the 
> fitting is a 1 ½” straight thread, but my old tanks appear to be tapered pipe 
> thread. Maybe a product change over the past 40 years, but I used Forespar 
> elbows with straight thread when I replumbed the boat a couple of years ago.
>  
> I am exploring plastic welding to repair the fittings, but I’m not real 
> hopeful it will work. So today I called Kracor to explore buying two new 
> tanks.
>  
> Kracor tells me they only do manufacturing of tanks for boat manufacturers, 
> suggested I call the manufacturer of my boat. No retail sales to individuals. 
> I explained that C&C was no longer in business, and asked if they could send 
> me to a dealer anywhere on the east coast. Was told they have no dealer 
> network.
>  
> Help!
>  
> There have been a number of recommendations to buy a Kracor tank over the 
> years. Has anyone actually bought one? And if you have, where did you 
> purchase the tank?
>  
> Rick Brass
> Imzadi  C&C 38 mk2 #47
> la Belle Aurore  C&C 25 mk1 #225
> Washington, NC
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Agreed, however I've been boarded and inspected by 3 different countries and 
have never been asked to show any charts of any type.  In this day and age I 
doubt anyone would take exception to anyone not carrying paper charts.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Sep 17, 2017, at 12:22 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Paper charts are still required by the authorities.  Only the most expensive 
> and largest military and commercial vessels have qualified electronic charts. 
>  Our "chartplotters" don't count.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Sep 17, 2017 12:09 PM, "Patrick H. Wesley via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> Always have paper charts for a number of reasons. Also make sure you have at 
> least a radar reflector!  Patrick Wesley 
> 
> On Sun, Sep 17, 2017 at 9:04 AM David Kaseler via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>> Chris,
>> Wow. Things can get pretty complicated. 
>> We have been sailing around Puget Sound including the Georgia Strait for 40 
>> years. We have a small Garmin GPS below at the nav station. The important 
>> navigation tools for us are my paper charts, parallel rules, dividers, a 
>> plastic speed distance time calculator (I forget what they call it), depth 
>> sounder and compass. We have a knot meter but are more apt to rely on the 
>> GPS for speed because of the strong currents in our area. We also have an 
>> old hand held GPS which we mount on a bracket on the stern pulpit which we 
>> got from a bike store but we hardly ever use it. 
>> If there is heavy fog we try to stay in port but if we get caught out we 
>> stay far from shipping lanes, and rely heavily on depth sounding contours, 
>> listen for fog horns and sound ours. 
>> Sure it would be nice to have radar and all the rest but these are not in 
>> our budget and provide unwarranted confidence and encourage one to go out 
>> when it would be prudent to stay in port.
>> Just my thoughts. This works for us.
>> Dave. Kaseler
>> 1975 C&C 33 
>> SLY
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Sep 16, 2017, at 6:29 PM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> We’re in Vancouver BC, Georgia Straight can get foggy, tides come and go 
>>> and we’re new at this. We have no GPS on our new to us 1981 C&C 30 and very 
>>> little in the way of navigation other than dead reckoning, basic 
>>> familiarity with the area and a compass at the helm. It’s fun because it’s 
>>> like we just purchased a 1981 C&C and technology isn’t around yet. However 
>>> every sail is a guessing game and I’d like to hear what others use for 
>>> costal navigation. Whether it’s real tangible maps, a GPS system you swear 
>>> by or an iPad with some software curious to hear what other C&C owners use 
>>> to get find their way.
>>> 
>>> Chris Hobson
>>> S/V Going
>>> 1980 C&C MKI
>>> Hull 615
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Patrick

What's your sailing radius.  Paper charts are heavy and take up a lot of space. 
 I was once told the paper charts to go from Toronto to St. John's weighed 60 
lbs.  Heck our coast guards don't use paper any more.

Been paperless and happy for at least 5 years.  

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Sep 17, 2017, at 12:08 PM, Patrick H. Wesley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Always have paper charts for a number of reasons. Also make sure you have at 
> least a radar reflector!  Patrick Wesley 
> 
>> On Sun, Sep 17, 2017 at 9:04 AM David Kaseler via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Chris,
>> Wow. Things can get pretty complicated. 
>> We have been sailing around Puget Sound including the Georgia Strait for 40 
>> years. We have a small Garmin GPS below at the nav station. The important 
>> navigation tools for us are my paper charts, parallel rules, dividers, a 
>> plastic speed distance time calculator (I forget what they call it), depth 
>> sounder and compass. We have a knot meter but are more apt to rely on the 
>> GPS for speed because of the strong currents in our area. We also have an 
>> old hand held GPS which we mount on a bracket on the stern pulpit which we 
>> got from a bike store but we hardly ever use it. 
>> If there is heavy fog we try to stay in port but if we get caught out we 
>> stay far from shipping lanes, and rely heavily on depth sounding contours, 
>> listen for fog horns and sound ours. 
>> Sure it would be nice to have radar and all the rest but these are not in 
>> our budget and provide unwarranted confidence and encourage one to go out 
>> when it would be prudent to stay in port.
>> Just my thoughts. This works for us.
>> Dave. Kaseler
>> 1975 C&C 33 
>> SLY
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>> On Sep 16, 2017, at 6:29 PM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> We’re in Vancouver BC, Georgia Straight can get foggy, tides come and go 
>>> and we’re new at this. We have no GPS on our new to us 1981 C&C 30 and very 
>>> little in the way of navigation other than dead reckoning, basic 
>>> familiarity with the area and a compass at the helm. It’s fun because it’s 
>>> like we just purchased a 1981 C&C and technology isn’t around yet. However 
>>> every sail is a guessing game and I’d like to hear what others use for 
>>> costal navigation. Whether it’s real tangible maps, a GPS system you swear 
>>> by or an iPad with some software curious to hear what other C&C owners use 
>>> to get find their way.
>>> 
>>> Chris Hobson
>>> S/V Going
>>> 1980 C&C MKI
>>> Hull 615
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Let's not forget us Canadians do not give away free charts.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Sep 17, 2017, at 10:33 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> On or first boat, an oday 22, I used water repellant paper charts.  These 
> were fine as we didn't really go very far.  When we moved up to a 33 foot I 
> got a sitex 7 inch for 1/2 the cost of a raymarine and it worked great.  We 
> now have all Raymarine.  
> 
> That being said,  I think the navionics app on your smartphone is a great 
> place to start.   
> 
> If you are just daysailing the same limited area for now, you should at least 
> be studying the paper charts, all are available on line for free, to see what 
> your obstacles are and then try to identify where they in the real world so 
> you can stay away from them.  Otherwise, you may just find some the hard way! 
> 
> Danny
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> Date: 9/17/17 9:14 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Edd Schillay 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none
> 
> Chris,
> 
> Up until last year, we had a Garmin GPSMap 2006C at the helm. We are now 
> running with a Raymarine e97, which also interfaces with the autopilot and, 
> eventually, other instruments (wind, speed, depth). 
> 
> On the e97, we have downloaded to raster charts, vector charts, c-map, and 
> Navionics Platinum which does point-to-point auto-routing, based on the boat 
> data (beam, draft, mast height) that you plug in. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
> C&C 37+ 
> Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, New York
> ---
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 7
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> On Sep 16, 2017, at 9:29 PM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We’re in Vancouver BC, Georgia Straight can get foggy, tides come and go and 
> we’re new at this. We have no GPS on our new to us 1981 C&C 30 and very 
> little in the way of navigation other than dead reckoning, basic familiarity 
> with the area and a compass at the helm. It’s fun because it’s like we just 
> purchased a 1981 C&C and technology isn’t around yet. However every sail is a 
> guessing game and I’d like to hear what others use for costal navigation. 
> Whether it’s real tangible maps, a GPS system you swear by or an iPad with 
> some software curious to hear what other C&C owners use to get find their way.
> 
> Chris Hobson
> S/V Going
> 1980 C&C MKI
> Hull 615
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List GPS, Chart Plodders and Technology when there is none

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Chris

You've received lots of good advise.  One recommendation I would make is get 
Garmin Blue Charts then become an Active Captain member and download the data 
base.  I found Active Captain invaluable on our cruise to the Bahamas and back.

I use android tablet at the helm with Navionics, iPad with Garmin as back up.  
In the salon I use radar with cmap cards (old school), laptop running 
SailCruiser (cmap charts) with integrated AIS transceiver connect to ST60 
autopilot.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Sep 16, 2017, at 9:29 PM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We’re in Vancouver BC, Georgia Straight can get foggy, tides come and go and 
> we’re new at this. We have no GPS on our new to us 1981 C&C 30 and very 
> little in the way of navigation other than dead reckoning, basic familiarity 
> with the area and a compass at the helm. It’s fun because it’s like we just 
> purchased a 1981 C&C and technology isn’t around yet. However every sail is a 
> guessing game and I’d like to hear what others use for costal navigation. 
> Whether it’s real tangible maps, a GPS system you swear by or an iPad with 
> some software curious to hear what other C&C owners use to get find their way.
> 
> Chris Hobson
> S/V Going
> 1980 C&C MKI
> Hull 615
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Alternator Belts

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Wow!  What am I doing with a 120 amp alternator?

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Sep 12, 2017, at 9:06 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The alternator should be limited to the changing capabilities of the 
> batteries.  Standard lead-acid would be 20 - 25% of capacity.  So a 100Ah 
> battery should not be charged at a rate greater than 25 amps.  I have a 400 
> Ah bank and a 200 Ah bank.  My 90amp Balmar alternator could exceed the rate 
> for my smaller bank so an ACR, Echo-charge, or reducing the alternator output 
> would be prudent.
> 
> I'm guessing that with 3 batteries you are probably close to 300Ah and 
> somewhere around 60 to 75amps is the absolute most you would want coming from 
> your alternator.  Leaving it set to 60% is probably just right.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 11, 2017, 10:36 PM coltrek via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> That happened to me three times in a row this summer, on a 6 day cruise 
>> /race. I went through three belts. I had just installed Three brand new Deep 
>> Cycle batteries. I called the Balmar tech line, and the fellow there kind of 
>> walked me through setting the regulator down to only charging at 60% instead 
>> of 95%. I don't know why it started to do it in the first place, but I think 
>> that it might have had something to do with my heart interface 2000 acting 
>> up. Anyways, after the trip, I reset the heart 2000 back to factory 
>> defaults, and it started working properly again. I'm not sure if I should 
>> ramp my regulator back up to a higher charging level or not. One thing I did 
>> after that, is I bought a Balmar regulator temperature sensor. I think it 
>> cuts the charging back and the load if it gets too hot.
>> 
>> 
>> Bill Coleman
>> C & C 39
>> 
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
>> Date: 9/11/17 22:15 (GMT-05:00) 
>> To: C&C  
>> Cc: ALAN BERGEN  
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Deal on starter from Mastry 
>> 
>> I have to push the starter button several times before the starter turns the 
>> engine over.  I thought it was the starter button.  I'd better check that 
>> out before I get into trouble, and cant start the engine in an emergency.
>> 
>> Speaking of an emergency, after finishing a race, yesterday, we dropped the 
>> chute and started the engine, as we approached a railroad bridge.  We 
>> suddenly smelled smoke, and when we opened the cockpit hatch, smoke poured 
>> out.  After closer inspection of the engine, we discovered the alternator 
>> belt had been slipping,  It got hot, melted and got stuck to the engine 
>> pulley.  Luckily I had an extra belt on board, and a half hour later the 
>> repair was completed.
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> 
>>> On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 6:53 PM, Dan Grant via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I have a universal M 18 that I have to push the starter A few times to get 
>>> it going it always works but I fear someday it won't 
>>> I looked into getting a new starter and my parts guy said congratulations 
>>> you have the most expensive starter I've seen $1000  
>>> I can get a new Kubota starter which would work fine for about 100
>>> Very confusing
>>> I looked it up and there is something about running A stronger wire to the 
>>> starter
>>> Maybe that's the problem?
>>> I'd like to know myself
>>> 
>>> Dan 
>>> 1970 Cv hull 148 
>>> Ipswich 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 On Sep 11, 2017, at 5:16 PM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 Mastry (www.mastry.com) does it again! I just replaced the starter on Take 
 Five this weekend and got a sweet deal on a re-man Hitachi unit: US 
 $128.44 + shipping. Mastry's the best! They always have the best price, 
 they even beat eBay and the shipping is super fast. 
 
 That's for a real deal Yanmar / Hitachi unit confirmed to fit using my 
 3gm30F's serial number. 
 
 Also the starter comes with a 18 months warranty, way better than the 
 Yanmar 6 mos new parts warranty.  
 
 The problem on my old starter?  I suspect there was a bad winding. It 
 would sometimes take 2-3 button pushes to get it going. 
 
 -Francois
 1990 34+ "Take Five"
 Lake Lanier, GA
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f

Stus-List Fwd: Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Oops sorry this should have been directed to Joel.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

Begin forwarded message:

> From: Persuasion37 
> Date: September 11, 2017 at 4:54:24 PM EDT
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!
> 
> Patrick
> 
> Those are massive hoses and through hull you have on your boat.  I'm thinking 
> the strainer top is 2" and the hoses are in the 1/2" range.
> 
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C&C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
> 
>> On Sep 11, 2017, at 1:51 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Patrick,
>> 
>> Yes that's the unit.  The bolt with the wing nut failed.  The result was the 
>> equivalent of a 2 inch hole in the boat.  That's 80 gallons per minute.  
>> Luckily, I have a large bilge!
>> 
>> Joel
>> 
>>> On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 1:04 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Yikes. Is it a Perko like this one?  
>>> http://www.perko.com/images/catalog/product/xl/Fig%200493%20(Top%20On).jpg
>>> 
>>> I'm having a hard time visualizing how a single bolt failure could result 
>>> in a hole big enough to outpace a 800 gph pump. 
>>> 
>>> Sounds like one of the wing nut bolts broke, but the other one was still 
>>> holding the lid torqued partially in place? Seems like a poor design. The 
>>> Groco design is nice because there's no way a threaded lid could 
>>> spontaneously fail - 
>>> https://fisheriessupply.scene7.com/is/image/FisheriesSupply/129443-groco-gro-arg-750-s-strainer-al1
>>> 
>>> Scary that it failed randomly rather than when you would expect a corroded 
>>> bolt to break (while torqueing the bolts during filter cleaning). 
>>> 
 On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 7:59 AM,  wrote:
 -- Forwarded message --
 From: Joel Aronson 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Cc: 
 Bcc: 
 Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2017 10:24:34 -0400
 Subject: Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!
 Yesterday as we were sailing back to the dock one of my crew yelled 
 'there's a lot of water down here'.  I opened the companionway steps and 
 saw water coming out of the top of the sea strainer as the water was 
 reaching the top of it.
 
 I closed the seacock and we manned the manual pump.  Once the water was 
 below the floorboards we let the electric do its job.
 
 One of the arms that held the lid in place broke at the lower end.  
 Luckily we were aboard and found the leak.  There was not excessive 
 corrosion on the strainer, so I don't think the weakness could have been 
 detected.  Time to re-think leaving seacocks open when I'm off the boat!
 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Patrick

Those are massive hoses and through hull you have on your boat.  I'm thinking 
the strainer top is 2" and the hoses are in the 1/2" range.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Sep 11, 2017, at 1:51 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Patrick,
> 
> Yes that's the unit.  The bolt with the wing nut failed.  The result was the 
> equivalent of a 2 inch hole in the boat.  That's 80 gallons per minute.  
> Luckily, I have a large bilge!
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 1:04 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Yikes. Is it a Perko like this one?  
>> http://www.perko.com/images/catalog/product/xl/Fig%200493%20(Top%20On).jpg
>> 
>> I'm having a hard time visualizing how a single bolt failure could result in 
>> a hole big enough to outpace a 800 gph pump. 
>> 
>> Sounds like one of the wing nut bolts broke, but the other one was still 
>> holding the lid torqued partially in place? Seems like a poor design. The 
>> Groco design is nice because there's no way a threaded lid could 
>> spontaneously fail - 
>> https://fisheriessupply.scene7.com/is/image/FisheriesSupply/129443-groco-gro-arg-750-s-strainer-al1
>> 
>> Scary that it failed randomly rather than when you would expect a corroded 
>> bolt to break (while torqueing the bolts during filter cleaning). 
>> 
>>> On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 7:59 AM,  wrote:
>>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: Joel Aronson 
>>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>>> Cc: 
>>> Bcc: 
>>> Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2017 10:24:34 -0400
>>> Subject: Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!
>>> Yesterday as we were sailing back to the dock one of my crew yelled 
>>> 'there's a lot of water down here'.  I opened the companionway steps and 
>>> saw water coming out of the top of the sea strainer as the water was 
>>> reaching the top of it.
>>> 
>>> I closed the seacock and we manned the manual pump.  Once the water was 
>>> below the floorboards we let the electric do its job.
>>> 
>>> One of the arms that held the lid in place broke at the lower end.  Luckily 
>>> we were aboard and found the leak.  There was not excessive corrosion on 
>>> the strainer, so I don't think the weakness could have been detected.  Time 
>>> to re-think leaving seacocks open when I'm off the boat!
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Joel 
>>> 301 541 8551
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Merek

I'm trying to remember there I bought my last one.  I think it was either 
Canadian Tire or Princess Auto.  I bought the cheap ones and they don't last 
long. Although the one I bought I consider it cheap as it was in the 20-25 
dollar range.

I think this is the one I've had for a few years.  
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-drill-pump-kit-0543802p.html#srp

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Sep 9, 2017, at 9:46 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Maybe I am unlucky, but I never had any of these pumps last longer than a 
> couple-three times.
>  
> Marek
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>  
> From: Persuasion37 via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 21:39
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Persuasion37
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search
>  
> Denis
>  
> I use a cheap transfer pump operated by a drill.  Pumps 5 gals in a couple of 
> minutes.  No more trying to for fuel through a funnel and no spills.  Can 
> pump a jerry can dry, less than a tbsp.  Now you purist hush.  I'm pumping 
> diesel.  Been doing it for 4 years.
>  
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C&C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>  
> > On Sep 8, 2017, at 12:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> > wrote:
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Denis

I use a cheap transfer pump operated by a drill.  Pumps 5 gals in a couple of 
minutes.  No more trying to for fuel through a funnel and no spills.  Can pump 
a jerry can dry, less than a tbsp.  Now you purist hush.  I'm pumping diesel.  
Been doing it for 4 years.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Sep 8, 2017, at 12:06 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Touche' came with a decent fuel funnel with fine screen in the bottom.  I 
> think it's an old EZ-John funnel.  Used it for years but it is very slow.  
> Not fun holding a 5 gallon diesel can for 10 minutes while the fuel drains so 
> slow.
> 
> I bought one of the Mr. Funnel F3 fuel funnels.  While it passes the diesel 
> much quicker, you're left with a couple ounces of diesel in the funnel.  The 
> design is such that any water would be left in this small residual.
> 
> It's a pain to deal with that couple ounces left in the funnel's sump.  I 
> usually carefully remove the funnel, put the old funnel in the fill fitting 
> and pour it in there.  Now I'm left with two wet funnels.
> 
> I've searched the Internet for a fuel filter funnel that doesn't have the 
> water trapping sump design.  I see Mr. Funnel, Racor and others but they all 
> have the water trapping sump.
> 
> I'm about to mix up a batch of epoxy and fill the sump up to the bottom of 
> the filter screen but that seems like an aggressive solution.  I have a Racor 
> 500 to trap water so I'm not overly concerned about removing water.
> 
> Any slick ideas out there?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Dinghy on fordeck

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

John

For short trips I keep the dinghy (10' RIB) on the dinghy tow.  On longer trips 
or over nighters I joist it to the fore deck.  It's ok for sailing but a bit of 
a pain when anchoring.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 15, 2017, at 1:49 PM, john wright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Any owners of 38 Landfall or any other C&C, keep/store their tender on the 
> foredeck. I am thinking of having Chocks made that at minimum, I can keep a 
> rowing wood tender thats 10 ft long on the foredeck. Not sure about while 
> under sail. Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List desperate measures + shroud issues

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

And the Admiral's fingers.  She was pointing to a spot that required washing on 
the coach roof.  Before she could move I blasted the spot and her.  She still 
bears the scar but has forgiven me

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 14, 2017, at 3:00 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Joe,
> 
> Did the same thing to my Pearson.  Over the course of a few weeks of sun and 
> rain they cleaned up nicely.
> 
> You got lucky on the mainsail cover!  Stay away from the windows with that 
> thing!
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Mon, Aug 14, 2017 at 2:56 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>>  
>> 
>> My plastic shroud guards (split plastic over the shrouds) managed to collect 
>> a TON of nasty dirt and pollen under them. The stainless looked really 
>> nasty! I decided I hate these things and dumpsterized them. I got an idea 
>> and got my pressure washer from home to see if I could clean them. It 
>> actually worked fairly well and the stainless is somewhat improved and dirt 
>> free, if still dull. So……I have this pressure washer in my hands and the 
>> mainsail cover is looking really nasty. It is about 30 years old and has had 
>> “perma-mold” for years that has resisted all cleaning efforts. I have the 
>> nozzle – and there is the nasty cover – and it is going to get replaced 
>> anyway this fall, so why not give it a go? I expected the cover to get 
>> blasted to pieces, but to my surprise it held up and the mold is 99% blasted 
>> away J
>> 
>> I wouldn’t try this on anything valuable, but it DID work.
>> 
>> Now for the shrouds – I could just replace them, but that is kind of a PITA 
>> for the uppers. Should I polish them, not worry about it, or ???
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Joe Della Barba
>> 
>> Coquina
>> 
>> C&C 35 MK I
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Teak...

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

David & Jake

I should of mentioned I replaced it with PlasDeck.  Sent TT Marine a paper 
template and they fabricated a one piece panel for me.  Great people to work 
with.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 14, 2017, at 11:50 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mike is correct. 
> I spent a large number of boat bucks having a proper teak cockpit grate built 
> for Honey our 39TM . The 3 piece grate looked fantastic and fit perfectly 
> (for what it cost it should have) but after 2 years of having to remove it 
> clean the cockpit sole, watching chafe the paint and collect every single 
> item that was dropped, I said to hell with it and it looks great sitting in 
> our sail locker.
> 
> Also, it was uncomfortable on the feet of our guests and race crew that 
> choose to go barefooted 
> 
> These grates are best left for the wooden boat guys.
> 
> Jack Fitzgerald
> HONEY - C&C 39TM
> US12788
> Savannah, GA
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Aug 14, 2017 at 11:40 AM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> David
>> 
>> Have you looked at boats with the teak grating.  They look nice and we had 
>> one but it was a PITA to clean.  If you like looking at food crumbs, body 
>> hair and the like go for it.  A simple hosing won't suffice.  You have to 
>> remove it to do a thorough job.
>> 
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C&C 37 K/CB
>> Long Sault
>> 
>>> On Aug 14, 2017, at 10:29 AM, David via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Making a teak cockpit grate for the better half.Any suggestions for 
>>> sourcing?
>>> 
>>> Thanks in advance
>>> 
>>> 1981 40-2.   
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Teak...

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

David

Have you looked at boats with the teak grating.  They look nice and we had one 
but it was a PITA to clean.  If you like looking at food crumbs, body hair and 
the like go for it.  A simple hosing won't suffice.  You have to remove it to 
do a thorough job.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 14, 2017, at 10:29 AM, David via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Making a teak cockpit grate for the better half.Any suggestions for 
> sourcing?
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> 1981 40-2.   
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Someone should tell my daughter she doesn't really have an Amazon Prime account🤔

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 13, 2017, at 10:49 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> You Canadians don't have the benefit of Amazon Prime?  That would suck... OK, 
> that could change my previous post.
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
> Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
> Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 8:37 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?
> 
> Peter,
>  
> If you are in Canada, you may try this place: 
> http://www.marineledscanada.ca/. I had good success with him. The best thing 
> is that he sails himself and knows a lot of different light fixtures from 
> dealing with other people. You can email him or call him and you should 
> figure it out. I had a problem with the anchor light (all bulbs that were 
> originally available were too long), but we eventually found something after 
> a long string of emails, pictures and measurements. And he is quite 
> reasonably priced.
>  
> Any good source in the US would kill you with shipping.
>  
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2017 13:48
> To: 1 CnC List 
> Cc: Peter Fell 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?
>  
> Well it can be a bit of a search for a correct bulb, at reasonable price, and 
> the manufacturers often don't always give very clear info.
>  
> I've been looking at LED festoon bulbs to convert a new Perko horizontal 
> mount stern light on my 27 (the small 'dome' type), mounted in the teak trim 
> on the stern. Previous owner had replaced the dome on the original fitting 
> (same style as the Perko) with a all-round one (!), and the light itself was 
> pretty deteriorated. So the bulb is 31mm 'type 71', not the larger, much more 
> common, 42mm. 
>  
> I've found Dr. LED bulbs at $40+ (CAD) (part number 9000173) that are clearly 
> identified as a nav light replacement. Then there is the Victory SourceLED at 
> $16 that is only identified as 'for Perko lights'.   I'll probably go for the 
> Dr. LED. At least I found an unused Perko fixture at a marine consignment 
> shop for $22, rather than the $75 I was quoted otherwise.
>  
> By the way, I looked at the Victory stern lights of the same style. Couldn't 
> find a LED socket-type bulb that would fit. And the Sea Dog versions you find 
> all over the place (which I think would have the same issue with LED bulbs) 
> have not been tested to international standards.
>  
>  
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Diesel in bilge

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Check the ground wire on top on the tank connect to the fuel gauge.  That is 
what was wrong with mine

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 2, 2017, at 8:58 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> FWIW, I also re-fuel using 5-gallon cans unless I’m going on a long trip.  I 
> try to plan it so I use up older fuel each season.  Has worked so far, but my 
> fuel gauge stopped working this season and I’m starting to get a little 
> nervous about how much is in there.
>  
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2017 3:30 PM
> To: C&C List
> Cc: Josh Muckley
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Diesel in bilge
>  
> Remember too that if there is fuel in the fill hose that there is fuel in the 
> vent hose.  Often times the vent hose isn't inspected or replaced at the same 
> periodicity.
>  
> Main Sailor did some experimenting with fuel tanks and condensation.  FWIW he 
> did not find that any more condensation accumulated in a partial tank.  As 
> such I take a different approach to fueling my boat.  Typically I won't use 
> the entire 40 gallon capacity of my tank in a single year.  So unless I'm 
> going on a long trip I only fuel up with 10 to 15 gallons.  I try to plan it 
> so that I can fill via jerry cans through a filter funnel.  At roughly 1 
> gallon per hour I know that I'm good for 10+ hours at full load.  It only 
> takes about 30 minutes to motor out and motor in so I get a minimum of 10 day 
> sails between fill ups and that is very conservative.  By filling in this 
> manner my fuel always stays fresh and any minor contaminants will get diluted 
> by the next fill up.
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>  
>> On Aug 1, 2017 9:23 AM, "robert via CnC-List"  wrote:
>> Sailed yesterday, got back to the slip, crack open a beer but smell diesel 
>> fuel in the cabin. Check the bilge and there is about 500 mls of fluid 
>> there..half water and half dieselI take it out with a sponge, first 
>> in a clear plastic container where you can clearly see two different liquids 
>> then pour it in a plastic bottle to dispose at our recycle depot at the 
>> club.   The bottle holds 555 mls and it was almost full so I know how much 
>> diesel there was. Couldn't find the source yesterday.  The other day, I 
>> filled the fuel tank, over filled it almost to the deck.   Thinking it may 
>> have expanded in the heat but it should have gone overboard from the 
>> overfillhose.  Bottom of fuel tank was dry.   No loss of engine power so 
>> the fuel line doesn't seem to be leaking.   Mystery???
>> 
>> Any ideas where I should concentrate on for the source of it?
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
> ___
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Anyone missing a radar?

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

nice paper weight

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, July 19, 2017 1:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Stus-List Anyone missing a radar?

https://easternshore.craigslist.org/bpo/d/found-raytheon-radar/6193183357.html

 




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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

I would not of survived if the AP didn't do 90+% of the steering on our trip to 
the Bahamas and back.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jul 18, 2017, at 10:45 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Fred,
> 
> Understood — and I have a self-imposed rule about never using the autopilot 
> when the helm is “under a load” or conditions merit a live person at the 
> wheel. My goal with the autopilot is to be used while under power for an hour 
> here and there, giving me time to leave the helm to grab some food, a drink 
> or go forward to make an adjustment. 
> 
> The conditions on Saturday were calm — and it was working extremely well for 
> some time. I think it was a connection issue since, once we started waving 
> course, I noticed on the p70 that the red bar would grow from time to time, 
> but never saw the green bar. I’ll check my connections. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jul 17, 2017, at 8:14 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Joel’s absolutely right — downwind is the hardest point of sail for any 
>> autopilot to manage.  And Edd, you need to keep in mind that, as I recall, 
>> the maximum displacement for that wheel pilot is about 16,500 lbs and your 
>> boat is about 16,000 lbs., making it right on the edge for being able to 
>> manage anyway.
>> 
>> — Fred
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>> 
>>> On Jul 17, 2017, at 3:27 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Dave, 
>>> 
>>> yes.  The wheel pilot is great with a balanced helm.  If the boat rounds up 
>>> in a puff it won't handle it.  If hand steering is difficult then a wheel 
>>> pilot is worse.
>>> 
>>> Joel
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Edd

When my linear drive start acting sporadic it was the brushes.  By sporadic I 
mean the autopilot would turn the wheel to come back on course then it would 
let go and just hold the last correction.  Sometimes it would just go straight 
sometimes it wanted to do circles.  The brushes were worn out and only made 
contacted with the armature occasionally.  Could not buy the brushes anywhere.  
Ended up ordering oversized ones on line and filing them to fit.  That was over 
two years ago and no issues since.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jul 17, 2017, at 10:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> All,
> 
> Thanks. I’m thinking it must be the connections and will double-check those. 
> I could see the heading reading in the upper right corner of the display, so 
> I know there were no issues with the fluxgate. I also don’t think it w the 
> belt as the wheel drive is new and has less than two hours of total use on it 
> — additionally, the motor was not reacting — not like it was whirring and 
> slipping. 
> 
> OK — back in I go . . .   
> http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t84cI65qdtE/TaxAHhoNrgI/BdY/74WdK5ON_Rc/s1600/photo.JPG
>  
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jul 17, 2017, at 9:53 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Note that many cell phone holsters have strong magnets to hold the case 
>> closed too. If you sit near where the fluxgate is……
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & 
>> Melody via CnC-List
>> Sent: Monday, July 17, 2017 1:16 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Russ & Melody 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question
>>  
>> 
>> Good to hear.
>> 
>> Frienfriends don't let frienfriends mess with fluxgate compasses.
>> 
>> Cheers, Russ
>> Sweet 35 mk-1
>> 
>> 
>> At 09:30 PM 16/07/2017, you wrote:
>> 
>> Make sure there is no metal near the flux compass. A frienfriend had this 
>> happen to him, found a spray can next to his flux compass. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>> Doug Mountjoy 
>> POYC 
>> Pegasus (for sale)
>> Lf38 
>> Significant Other 
>> LF 39
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
>> Date: 7/16/17 10:58 (GMT-08:00) 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: Edd Schillay  
>> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot Question 
>> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>> Yesterday, on a dinner trip to Oyster Bay, our autopilot stated to 
>> malfunction after about an hour or so.
>> 
>> It would be holding a course, then start veering to port, then to starboard, 
>> then much more to port, then much more to starboard . . and so on. 
>> Eventually, it would get so far off (over 90 degrees), a the autopilot would 
>> disengage. I shut it down and tried to restart it by cutting power to it for 
>> about a minute, then it would happen again after a minute or two. 
>> 
>> I tries setting the p70 to “performance” to keep the boat more tightly 
>> on course, but that had no effect. The display kept showing how far off we 
>> were (so I know the EV sensor core was working), but it wasn’t correcting 
>> course properly. 
>> 
>> I ended up turning it off completely, in fears of getting a DUI inquiry from 
>> all the S-turns. 
>> 
>> Any ideas? To clarify, I have a ACU-200 and a ST4000+ wheel pilot. And, up 
>> until yesterday, it was working flawlessly. 
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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>> 
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>> ___
>> 
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>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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> 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List Battery replacement time

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Tim

When I bought Persuasion in '05 she had 2- Group 4D Lifeline batteries has 
house batteries.  Served me very well.  In  2014 I replaced them in kind.  Very 
happy with Lifeline and didn't find the price off putting

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jul 9, 2017, at 12:28 PM, tim via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi,
>  
> Its time for battery replacement.  I am presently using Interstate #31 Deep 
> cell (2 house, 1 for start).  Looking to go AGM route and seeking advice for 
> which manufacturer/brand seems to be most reliable and longevity for the 
> money.  Leaning toward Lifeline after some research.  Very open to other 
> recommendations based on experience.  I use a couple solar cells for trickle 
> charging as on a mooring.
>  
> Thanks for your advice.
>  
> Tim
> 29’ Mk1
> Malletts Bay, VT
> SV Sly Fox
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List centerboard cable broken

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Donald

This happened to me in the Bahamas, fortunately my board was jammed in the up 
position.  If my board was down I would be concerned it could get damaged.  I 
believe the cable can be replaced while the boat is in the water.  Your biggest 
challenge will be getting the cable end made that's attached to the board.  
I've been told they are not available so I had a machine shop make on for me.  
I could get you the dimensions but it may not be the same.  Also, I could give 
you a picture of my board as I have yet to do the reinstall.  

Mike
PERSUASION
www.persuasion37.com
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jun 12, 2017, at 2:53 AM, Donald Sebastian via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I have a C&C 33 with a drop keel.  Today as I was going to drop the keel, 
> from its normal 4 1/2 ft to 7 ft, the line was slack.  After diving 
> underneath, the keel is down but it is hard to tell what exactly is going on. 
>My assumption is 2 things:  Either the cable broke, or the pin that the 
> cable attaches to has broken.
> 
> I have a few questions:
> 
> 1.  Can this be repaired while in the water with a diver?  Not a great option 
> to pull locally without demasting.
> 2.  If I can’t repair immediately, would I cause damage to the keel by 
> sailing as is for a bit?   I didn’t know if there was a stop keeping the keel 
> from droppiing too far?
> 3.   If it is the attachment where the cable connects to the centerboard, 
> does any one have specs on that connection or pictures?
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Donald
> 
> Louisville, KY
> 
> 
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> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Centerboard pin

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Bunny

When I removed my centre board the pin was bent.  It is made of 1" stainless 
steal.  Couldn't tell just looking at the keel.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On May 30, 2017, at 3:46 PM, Bunky via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Just had the bottom of Luna, C&C35 painted professionally, and the technician 
> wondered if I ever checked the centerboard pin. Do these fail? Need to be 
> checked? What a job that would be.
> ___
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Re: Stus-List One more kick at windlass for C&C 34

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Jim

I had the same issue.  I cut the 2 pieces in two ensuring the cuts were offset. 
Then I epoxied everything in place.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On May 29, 2017, at 2:10 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Josh, I also discovered that I couldn't get the full-width shelf into the 
> locker, so I tabbed supports to either side and bolted the shelf to those. 
> The angled insert gives the right entry angle for the chain to the windlass. 
> http://imgur.com/HHLi2nR.jpg
> 
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
>> On 28 May 2017 at 19:20, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Jim, Did you do the install? How does the shelf fit into the locker?  I 
>> tried to start mocking up an installation of my own based loosely on Dave 
>> Godwin's.  
>> http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2014/10/anchor-windlass-shelf.html?m=1
>> 
>> I quickly discovered that my solid cardboard shelf couldn't be removed if 
>> kept flat and straight like a board that went full width of the locker.
>> 
>> Does yours have any support beneath?
>> 
>> What about fasteners to anchor the shelf to the bulkhead?  Or is it all just 
>> epoxy and fiberglass tabs?
>> 
>> Discussed with Dave and he agrees that a hybrid of his install and Tom 
>> Buscaglia's would be ideal.
>> 
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/15752113372/in/album-72157629350057893/
>> 
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/15565407757/in/album-72157629350057893/
>> 
>> Thanks, 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Replacing Teak and Holly Flooring

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Probably, but I wanted a seamless look.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On May 28, 2017, at 7:07 PM, Indigo via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Could one not screw the completed panels just like the original - with the 
> screws going through the Plasteak and countersunk to stop the heads being 
> proud?
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> 
>> On May 28, 2017, at 15:07, Persuasion37 via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I used PlasTeak, bought it from Defender.  Only draw back is it cannot be 
>> removed like the old panels.  I screwed down epoxied coated plywood then 
>> applied the PlasTeak.  If you go this route make sure you make access panels 
>> to access the full length of the bilge.
>> 
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C&C 37 K/CB
>> Long Sault
>> 
>>> On May 28, 2017, at 10:31 AM, Indigo via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> The teak and holly flooring on Indigo desperately needs replacing. 
>>> 
>>> I have 1 question for 35mk3 owners and one for all listers!
>>> 
>>> 1. Can the flooring be replaced without removing vertical grab bar by the 
>>> galley. Access to the upper end of this grab bar is under the companionway 
>>> hatch cover?   
>>> 
>>> 2. What alternatives to teak and holly would listers recommend. I am not 
>>> sure investment in the real stuff is warranted for a nearly 35 yr old boat. 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> Jonathan
>>> Indigo C&C 35III
>>> SOUTHPORT CT
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Replacing Teak and Holly Flooring

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

I used PlasTeak, bought it from Defender.  Only draw back is it cannot be 
removed like the old panels.  I screwed down epoxied coated plywood then 
applied the PlasTeak.  If you go this route make sure you make access panels to 
access the full length of the bilge.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On May 28, 2017, at 10:31 AM, Indigo via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The teak and holly flooring on Indigo desperately needs replacing. 
> 
> I have 1 question for 35mk3 owners and one for all listers!
> 
> 1. Can the flooring be replaced without removing vertical grab bar by the 
> galley. Access to the upper end of this grab bar is under the companionway 
> hatch cover?   
> 
> 2. What alternatives to teak and holly would listers recommend. I am not sure 
> investment in the real stuff is warranted for a nearly 35 yr old boat. 
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List One more kick at windlass for C&C 34

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

I'm away from home for a few days but I'll send you some off list when I get 
back.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On May 28, 2017, at 9:45 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Mike, do you have any pictures?
> 
> Josh
> 
>> On May 28, 2017 8:43 AM, "Persuasion37 via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> I mounted mine in the anchor locker on a shelf I constructed from 1.5" 
>> plywood. It is wedged shaped at the ends to fit the hull, and tabbed to the 
>> bulkhead.  I have a capstan with chain gypsy and used a hole saw to cut a 
>> hole in the anchor locker lid to accommodate the capstan.  No noticeable 
>> loss of strength to the lid.
>> 
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C&C 37 K/CB
>> Long Sault
>> 
>> > On May 28, 2017, at 8:17 AM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>> >  wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi Don
>> >
>> > We do not have a windlass but I know there are lots of threads of 
>> > windlasses
>> > for larger boats.  Might want to look there???
>> >
>> > I once saw a 34 with windlass mounted to a large board that crossed the aft
>> > edge of the chain locker. As I recall, the aft section of the locker cover
>> > was cut off to accommodate.  Would not recommend it
>> >
>> > John and Maryann
>> > Legacy III
>> > 1982 C&C 34
>> > Noank, CT
>> > -Original Message-
>> > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON
>> > JONSSON via CnC-List
>> > Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2017 11:47 PM
>> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > Cc: DON JONSSON
>> > Subject: Stus-List One more kick at windlass for C&C 34
>> >
>> > Hi All
>> >
>> > I asked before if anyone has an electric windlass on a C&C 34.  Although I
>> > got great advice no pictures of one mounted on a 34.  I'm hoping someone 
>> > out
>> > there has a C&C 34 with an electric windlass that they think has been set 
>> > up
>> > well and could either provide a description of where it is or a quick
>> > picture.   So I'm asking one more time.
>> >
>> > Thanks
>> > Don Jonsson
>> > Swansong, C&C 34
>> > Victoria, BC
>> >
>> > Sent from my iPad
>> > ___
>> >
>> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>> > wish
>> > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> >
>> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> >
>> >
>> > ___
>> >
>> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>> > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> >
>> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List One more kick at windlass for C&C 34

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

I mounted mine in the anchor locker on a shelf I constructed from 1.5" plywood. 
It is wedged shaped at the ends to fit the hull, and tabbed to the bulkhead.  I 
have a capstan with chain gypsy and used a hole saw to cut a hole in the anchor 
locker lid to accommodate the capstan.  No noticeable loss of strength to the 
lid.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On May 28, 2017, at 8:17 AM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Don
> 
> We do not have a windlass but I know there are lots of threads of windlasses
> for larger boats.  Might want to look there???
> 
> I once saw a 34 with windlass mounted to a large board that crossed the aft
> edge of the chain locker. As I recall, the aft section of the locker cover
> was cut off to accommodate.  Would not recommend it
> 
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON
> JONSSON via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2017 11:47 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: DON JONSSON
> Subject: Stus-List One more kick at windlass for C&C 34
> 
> Hi All
> 
> I asked before if anyone has an electric windlass on a C&C 34.  Although I
> got great advice no pictures of one mounted on a 34.  I'm hoping someone out
> there has a C&C 34 with an electric windlass that they think has been set up
> well and could either provide a description of where it is or a quick
> picture.   So I'm asking one more time.
> 
> Thanks
> Don Jonsson
> Swansong, C&C 34
> Victoria, BC
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Windlass placement

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Jacob

I installed a vertical windlass with capstan in the anchor locker.  I 
fabricated a plywood shelve in the anchor locker at the right height to ensure 
proper windlass operation.  The shelf is made of 2 layers of 3/4 inch plywood.  
I had to cut the pieces of plywood in two to install.  They are shaped to fit 
to the hull.  I also cut a hole in the anchor locker hatch to accommodate the 
capstan.  I carry 200’ 5/16 chain and usually anchor in >20 feet.  I have to 
occasionally push the stack of chain over to the side when raising the anchor.  
I believe the manual says 12 inches of free fall.  That is not enough when the 
chain starts to stack up.  It no biggy as someone is always at the bow when 
raising the anchor.

Unfortunately I’ve lost all pictures.  If you want I could take a few when I go 
back to the boat in a couple of weeks.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
www.persuasion37.com
Long Sault

From: jacob fuerst via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 12:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: jacob fuerst 
Subject: Stus-List Windlass placement

Currently I do not have a windlass on the boat. The anchor locker and lid takes 
up the entire bow beyond the vberth.  

In order to place the vertical rope to chain windlass on the deck requires 
placing it above the vberth and running a channel for the rode back into the 
locker. Additionally this would mean cutting into the liner inside.

There are holes in the bulkhead where there appears to have been a shelf bolted 
inside the anchor locker but going only to that seems very weak. I'm thinking 
now of reinforcing the bulkhead and sort of glassing it into the sides and then 
bolting a frame to set the windlass on and it would be fully contained within 
the locker. 

Has anyone been through this or have suggestions or notes of caution?


Jacob Fuerst
'78 C&C 36
Ventura, CA
303-520-4669



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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast solo

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

http://www.boatinternational.com/yachts/news/crewmember-dies-after-falling-on-sailing-yacht-germania-nova--33067

Enough said.  Don't do it alone make sure you are attached to the mast at all 
times

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Mar 16, 2017, at 11:01 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I need to replace the radar dome on my mizzenmast this weekend.  It's about 
> 22' up.  I'm in solid shape and can climb without a problem.  However, I have 
> never climbed a mast before, and I have to do this work alone.  I'm curious 
> if anyone here has suggestions for doing this safely.  Is it possible, or 
> should I call in a professional?  
> 
> I'll be down on the eastern shore of the Chesapeake, so I'm sure I could find 
> someone, but I'd rather learn to do this myself and I'd rather spend $$ on 
> mast climbing equipment than on a pro.  I'm sure this won't be the last time 
> I have to do this.
> 
> Any advice is appreciated.
> 
> Thanks so much.
> 
> Ryan
> Juniper - 1983 Pearson 424 Ketch 
> (Former 1976 C&C 30)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Wind Turbine / Generators

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Fred

You are correct.  It should be www.persuasion37.com

Sorry for the confusion.

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2017 3:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wind Turbine / Generators

Mike — I think that link isn’t correct… 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

  On Feb 23, 2017, at 2:27 PM, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Sorry Edd 

  There are pictures at www.persuasion.com


  Mike 
  PERSUASION

  C&C 37 K/CB
  Long Sault



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Re: Stus-List Wind Turbine / Generators

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Sorry Edd 

There are pictures at www.persuasion.com


Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Feb 23, 2017, at 1:10 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> After watching the Brown family on Alaskan Bush People last night install a 
> wind turbine to power their part of the island, I got to thinking (usually a 
> very dangerous and costly thing to do) and found this on Defender: 
> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2290063|2290064&id=2188348 
> 
> So — has anyone installed a wind turbine/generator on their C&C? Pros? Cons? 
> How did you mount it? Any photos of your mounts would be appreciated in case 
> I pull the trigger. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Wind Turbine / Generators

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Edd

I installed a 450 MarineKinetix in Annapolis on my way south in 2014.  Install 
was simple.  I mounted it on a poll I purchased from e-marine.  It's aluminum 
and they coat the inside to reduce vibration and noise.   I love it when the 
wind is blowing 15+ kts.  I chose this one because I saw one on Cruising 
Solution's boat in Shelbourne NS.  Every time I went by in the dinghy I would 
stop and listen to see how noisy it was.  It was very quiet. Also I thought the 
pricing was good.

I don't believe all the hype from all the manufactures about performance.

YMMV

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Feb 23, 2017, at 1:10 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> After watching the Brown family on Alaskan Bush People last night install a 
> wind turbine to power their part of the island, I got to thinking (usually a 
> very dangerous and costly thing to do) and found this on Defender: 
> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2290063|2290064&id=2188348 
> 
> So — has anyone installed a wind turbine/generator on their C&C? Pros? Cons? 
> How did you mount it? Any photos of your mounts would be appreciated in case 
> I pull the trigger. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List GFCI outlets

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

My 2014 surveyor recommended it and my insurer insisted upon it.


Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Feb 23, 2017, at 10:37 AM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Do the current ABYC standards insist on GFCI outlets for 117 VAC branch 
> circuits?
> 
> Alex Giannelia
> C&C 35-II (1974) no 282
> a...@airsensing.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MKI Dodger

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Paul

We did that trip in 2014/15.  Before we left I had Genco fabricate and install 
a dodger/bimini/enclosure.  I am very please with their work.  Side panels are 
removal or can be rolled up and they have screens.  If you are going the same 
route as me (out the St. Lawrence) you’ll want a full enclosure.  To see some 
pics look at my website www.persuasion37.com.  My traveller is on the coach 
roof so not quite the same.  Give Genco a call they probably have pictures on 
file and you might even get show pricing

Good luck

Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 Keel/CB
Long Sault

From: Paul Vint via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2017 9:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Paul Vint 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 33 MKI Dodger

Hi all,


After a few years of cruising Lake Ontario and the 1000 Islands in the St. 
Lawrence River I'm planning on some extended cruising next season, maybe to end 
up where winter doesn't suck.


My old 33 MKI is naked - no dodger and no bimini, and while I love that, let's 
face it, some shelter from wind/rain/sun would be damned nice, and this spring 
I'm going to bite the bullet and do it.


I would really love some opinions (and pictures?) of some designs and "dos and 
don'ts" for dodger design.  


Resolute has the traveller just aft of the companionway, which will be a bit of 
a pain for dodger design, but I'm not moving it (it's a newish traveller, and 
really really nice!).


My main concerns in the dodger design are how to handle the slope of the cabin 
top (so it looks ok) and to keep things so that the lines are clear to the 
winches with room for cranking. I could deal with a dodger being in the way of 
the more forward winches and just use the aft ones when the dodger's "trailing 
wings" are pulled back.


Last season I worked out the height - a bit lower than the boom will let me 
look through it when sitting and look over when standing (in the picture that's 
my son who is a bit taller than me!)


Image for reference: 
http://resolute.rocks//images/Resolute_port_slowsail_wkjib.jpeg


I appreciate any comments, especially those which explain what you feel like 
are mistakes on your own dodger! (and any and all pics of a 33 MKI dodger 
appreciated VERY much!)


Cheers!


Paul


Resolute - 1975 C&C 33 MKI




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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

And that is why I don't race.  Great video.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Dec 6, 2016, at 11:40 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> That video is an all time classic in my book. I can not believe it doesn't 
> have a gazillion views.
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Dec 6, 2016, 6:58 PM John McKay via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Damn Kevin I howled
>> 
>> How often did I hear these conversation the last racing season!
>> 
>> John
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 5:40 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Not sure why the ass end of the boat has so much difficulty following 
>> instructions: https://youtu.be/4MRunq1y2_A
>> 
>> On Tue, Dec 6, 2016 at 1:45 PM Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Another aspect of smoother end for end gybes with sheets and guys is having 
>> the foredeck make certain there is plenty of slack lazy guy at the chain 
>> plates prior to beginning the maneuver – how much slack is determined 
>> through practice.  When the pole is trimmed back as the boat turns down, and 
>> then tripped, the spin trimmer controls the kite with both sheets and there 
>> is no load on the new guy.  The mast man / foredeck should be able to drop 
>> the new guy into the jaw and push the pole out and make it on the mast 
>> without any real load on the pole via the guy.  The guy trimmer only trims 
>> back the new guy after the call of “Made” is heard from the foredeck, and 
>> then the spin trimmer eases the weather spin sheet as the new guy is brought 
>> in. 
>>  
>> And of course, the helmsman has to not turn up to the new course until that 
>> call as well…
>>  
>> All it takes is a lot of practice to get everyone on the same page…  ;) 
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, December 06, 2016 3:04 PM
>> To: CnClist 
>> Cc: Dennis C. 
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Spinnaker pole handling
>>  
>> Think about it like this, if the center seam on the bottom panel of the 
>> chute is directly ahead of the boat (centered on the forestay) it is easy to 
>> move the chute side to side to make the pole on either side.  If the center 
>> seam has prematurely crossed the forestay to the leeward side then the 
>> foredeck person has to push the sail back to windward to make the pole.
>> A simple light air practice exercise is to center the main, steer the boat 
>> keeping the Windex CENTERED between the tabs and then have the foredeck gybe 
>> the chute back and forth a few times.  Put a piece of tape on the center 
>> seam of the bottom panel to give a visible reference to the forestay.
>> When racing, if the foredeck can complete the gybe and have the pole made on 
>> the mast while the Windex is still well between the tabs, it should go 
>> smoothly.  The speed of the turn is controlled by the helmsperson!  Watch 
>> the center seam!
>>  
>> Dennis C.
>>  
>> On Tue, Dec 6, 2016 at 1:30 PM, John McKay via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Yikes, and I have been blaming it on the foredeck guys!
>>  
>> On Tuesday, December 6, 2016 12:09 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>>  
>> As someone who does the pointy end on multiple racing boats, I fully concur. 
>> Almost all of the FUBAR kite moments are down to the ham-fisted monkey at 
>> the blunt end 
>> Cheers,
>> Paul.
>>  
>> 1974 27' MkII
>> Sidney, BC.
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy Putty

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Mark

There are several varieties.  Some will cure underwater.  I have 2 or 3 on 
Persuasion.  I did do a repair on a waterline on a friends boat.  To my 
knowledge it became a permanent repair.  Can't remember which ones I have.  
Probably available at Harbour Freight or Princess Auto north of the border.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Dec 5, 2016, at 6:58 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Anyone use the epoxy putty for their boats? 2 part putty that you mix together
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B008DYMZCG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1
> 
> I was talking to a friend the other day - he was telling me how he wrapped a 
> line around his prop and jammed his strut up into the hull.  He discovered a 
> small fountain of water coming in.
> 
> He had some of the epoxy putty - squeezed it together to start the reaction 
> and mashed it in around the damaged area  - he then held it in place with his 
> hands as it warmed up and cured.  90% of the water stopped - so he mixed up a 
> bit more and was able to stop all the incoming water.  Confident enough that 
> he left the boat on a mooring overnight and had it hauled a day or 2 later 
> for repairs.
> 
> I'm thinking I should have a couple tubes of this on the boat for emergencies.
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> BTW - Jamie at Shining Waters Marine did his repair - my friend had nothing 
> but great things to say about the workmanship -- I believe Jamie is  C+C 
> lister Mike Amirault's son.
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>  - George Santayana
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

https://www.emarineinc.com/

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Nov 30, 2016, at 7:24 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I'm trying to price out a large solar system and new house battery bank for a 
> 42' cruiser and I'm curious where fellow sailors are buying solar panels, 
> regulators, and batteries these days.  Amazon has tons of panels, but in most 
> cases it seems the quality is questionable for marine use.  I'm thinking West 
> Marine and Defender will just be too pricey.  I know where to go for the wire 
> and small components - genuinedealz.com has been great.
> 
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  Also curious what brands of panels 
> anyone has had luck with.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> Ryan
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Kanzaki transmission oil change

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

I would suspect that you would use the right weight based on operating 
temperature.  Up here in the great white north you probably would use 20w.  As 
you move south into warmer temperatures you may want to use 30w.  Age could 
also play a factor.  Am I glad I use ATF😜

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Nov 29, 2016, at 1:14 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Maek,
> 
> It means a single weight oil - either 20w or 30w, not a multi-weight such as 
> 10w-30.
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Tue, Nov 29, 2016 at 1:09 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Thanks Joel
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> For those of us that do not know what that means please enlighten us?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
>> Aronson via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2016 2:06 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Joel Aronson
>> 
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Kanzaki transmission oil change
>>  
>> 
>> Mike, I think it means either straight 20 or 30 weight.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Joel
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Tue, Nov 29, 2016 at 1:03 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Thanks all
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> My Kanzaki transmission plate states model KM3P gear ratio 2.61 Oil SAE 
>> 20/30 HD Oil Qty 0.35 litre
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I am assuming SAE 20/30 means 10W30?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
>> Dziedzic via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2016 1:36 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Marek Dziedzic
>> 
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Kanzaki transmission oil change
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Check the correct oil. It can be ATF or motor oil. Usually, there is a 
>> (reddish) label on top or the side of the transmission.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Also, check how much you sucked out. It is very easy to overfill.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mine (Hurth 50) takes .7 l of ATF.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Marek
>> 
>> 1994 C270 “Legato” (Perkins M20/Hurth 50)
>> 
>> Ottawa, ON
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: Persuasion37 via CnC-List
>> 
>> Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2016 09:24
>> 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> Cc: Persuasion37
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Kanzaki transmission oil change
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> That's the way I do it.  Check for correct fluid type.  Mine takes ATF. - .7 
>> litres.  A little less because it's hard to vacuum all of the fluid out.
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> PERSUASION
>> 
>> C&C 37 K/CB
>> 
>> Long Sault
>> 
>> 
>> On Nov 29, 2016, at 8:31 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> HI
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Persistence has Yanmar 3GM30F with Kanzaki KM3P transmission.  The filler 
>> and dipstick cap is accessible on the top and I think there is a drain plug 
>> on the side somewhere that is far less accessible.  My current thoughts are 
>> that I should be able to drain the transmission oil from the filler/dipstick 
>> opening using an oil removal pump in the same manner as I drain the engine 
>> oil.  I am thinking the vacuum style oil change pump with a long enough hose 
>> to make access relatively easy
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Is this a common practice and would it work?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Mike
>> 
>> Persistence
>> 
>> Halifax, NS
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Kanzaki transmission oil change

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

That's the way I do it.  Check for correct fluid type.  Mine takes ATF. - .7 
litres.  A little less because it's hard to vacuum all of the fluid out.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Nov 29, 2016, at 8:31 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> HI
>  
> Persistence has Yanmar 3GM30F with Kanzaki KM3P transmission.  The filler and 
> dipstick cap is accessible on the top and I think there is a drain plug on 
> the side somewhere that is far less accessible.  My current thoughts are that 
> I should be able to drain the transmission oil from the filler/dipstick 
> opening using an oil removal pump in the same manner as I drain the engine 
> oil.  I am thinking the vacuum style oil change pump with a long enough hose 
> to make access relatively easy
>  
> Is this a common practice and would it work?
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List discussions on list

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

HERE, HERE!!!  (much table-pounding).  Mr. piper's email did more damage than 
anything I've read thus far.  What ever happened to freedom of speech.  As Dave 
stated it is only one mans opinion.

Stu I think Mr. Piper should have aces to this discussion.

Stu we all appreciate your hard work and would not want to do anything to 
jeopardize this forum.

My 2 cents (Canadian)
Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Nov 25, 2016, at 4:45 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> For the record:
> 
> Without making direct reference any recent discussion on list that may have 
> resulted in threats of  litigation, I would like to offer that I believe that 
> any discussion here is understood to be among adults who are fully aware that 
> disputes may arise and opinions may differ.   I do not believe that one party 
> communicating a negative commercial experience with another in a forum such 
> as this can be reasonably considered damaging or would materially cause 
> others to form a firm impression of either party.  We're all grownups and we 
> know opinions differ, and that there are many sides to every story.  I view 
> such discussions as instructive and useful to all, who may wish to learn from 
> the experience of others.  
> The members here are not anonymous and communicate responsibly. 
> I have not seen any example where inappropriate or damaging information has 
> been distributed via this list, and in my opinion the list is moderated in a 
> highly responsible manner. 
> 
> Thanks for the good work Stu.
> 
> Dave Syer
> ON Canada.
>
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Bridge Yacht Experience

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Persuasion is not listed yet but in anyone is interested they can contacted me 
off list.  Latest survey spring of 2014.  Cruiser not a racer.  Well I've never 
raced in the 10 years I've owned her.

Seriously one of these days I'll have to make a list of all the upgrades and 
maintenance I've done.


Mike
PERSUASION
www.persuasion37.com
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Nov 23, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> With all this discussion of boats for sale I would like to let the list know 
> that my 27-V 1986 is for sale on Long Island NY.  Very nice boat.  You can 
> see listing at http://m.sailboatlistings.com/view/61767
> I am looking to move up to a larger boat 35+ to 41 feet so if anyone has one 
> for sale let me know.  Jerry J&J
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 23, 2016, at 10:37 AM, Phygital via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> By the way... I dealt with bridge yachts in the last few weeks on my last 
>> search. 
>> 
>> Survey Failed (according to what I'm looking for), but I had a decent 
>> experience. There's always the feeling of "did they know more"... some 
>> experienced buyers see a problem (especially if structural), as a big 
>> negotiation point. Brokers don't know off hand what the buyer is willing to 
>> accept. It's an it of a crap shoot for them as well.
>> 
>> Owner got a quote from boatyard and asked the broker to see if we would 
>> still be interested if repairs were done or deduct the amount from agreed 
>> price if I chose to do it myself or another boat yard.
>> 
>> We declined, in part thinking resale, but mostly it was the thought of "is 
>> it safe" that would always be in the admirals mind (you know who I mean)...
>> 
>> I slept well that night :).
>> 
>> You gotta feel good about your boat. A good friend and lister (Christian), 
>> told me... when you buy the boat "It's Yours"... whatever you discover 
>> afterwards "it's yours". Hard, but really great advice.
>> 
>> Nothing negative to say about BY. I'm still in touch and they now know I'm a 
>> serious buyer and exactly what I want and questions I will ask. They are 
>> prepared.
>> 
>> The hunt is still on.
>> 
>> 
>> /J
>> 
>>> On Nov 23, 2016, at 10:05 AM, Della Barba, Joe  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> If you want to know how many times I have run aground, you would be in for 
>>> a long conversation LOL. I think I am at 2 or so in the last week – marina 
>>> needs to dredge again.
>>> Seriously though, VERY good advice. I have had brokers email me a survey 
>>> that was pretty harsh. That was putting honesty over $$ and good on them. 
>>> Also note for C&Cs, we have a rather unique resource. I make no claim to be 
>>> a surveyor, but I could find C&C 35 MK I issues in 10 minutes 95% of 
>>> surveyors would never catch. A long term owner of your proposed purchase 
>>> could do a once-over and save a lot of time and money.
>>> Joe
>>> Coquina
>>>  
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Phygital 
>>> via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2016 09:54
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Phygital 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bridge Yacht Experience
>>>  
>>> Have been looking for a boat for just over a year now. Have traveled far 
>>> and wide and dealt with numerous brokers.
>>>  
>>> I've learned the following during my journey;
>>>  
>>> - if the broker is represents both seller and buyer, either get another 
>>> broker to represent you or establish in writing that the broker agrees to 
>>> represent you as much as the seller. In some provinces or states this is 
>>> mandated.
>>>  
>>> - some brokers seemingly have little historical knowledge of the vessel. 
>>> I've learned the burden is up to me to ask as many questions as possible 
>>> including grounding, propeller shaft, etc. I even ask for receipts for work 
>>> done as verification it was professionally done. Of course extent matters 
>>> on the size of the job.
>>>  
>>> - some brokers only answer the questions you ask, and offer nothing more, 
>>> and it can be like pulling teeth. They won't readily  forward the survey 
>>> unless you ask for it.
>>>  
>>> - some brokers are really great in that they get to know the boat, will 
>>> sound the hull, take readings, etc. they do this as part of establishing 
>>> the price. Immediately forward a survey if they have it.
>>>  
>>> - some brokers allow for communication with the owners. This is rare. I get 
>>> concerned, but then I really start to collect information and ask a million 
>>> questions on every system on the boat. A decent boat owner keeps bills.
>>>  
>>> - it comes down to liability, and burden of proof. Most don't get a sea 
>>> trial, or have the engine surveyed. If it's on the hard ask to have a 
>>> portion of the money held back for a sea trial and engine survey, or other 
>>> areas you could not survey at the time (e.g. Mast alof) and only after 
>>> transport.
>>>  
>>> - I ask when the pictures were taken, and ask for them sent to me in 

Re: Stus-List Velcro Adhesive

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Alan.

Isn't FRP "blasphemy" in a salon or so I thought that was the consensus when I 
did mine.  I tried the Velcro route and didn't like the look.  Too bulky at the 
edges.  I used 4200 to secure the panels.  So semi-permanent.  I re-bedded 
everything prior.  Had to brace the panels in place until the 4200 set.  There 
are a few pictures Persuasion37.com under "the boat".  I put the bubble side 
down and painted the head liner Interlux Perfection "blue glo" white.  Really 
brightens the salon. 

Mike
PERSUASION
www.persuasion37.com
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Nov 19, 2016, at 11:46 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm replacing all of the ceiling access panels (1/8" plywood with cloth 
> covering) with FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic).  The existing ones are 
> screwed in.  I want to use Velcro instead.  What is the  recommended adhesive 
> for this? Input from anyone who has first hand experience would be 
> appreciated.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Violeta

I can't help you with your toenail, but I do have a word of caution.  I 
strongly recommend that you use two lines on your mooring ball.  There was a 
fellow at our club that only used one line at the start of the season, shortly 
after launch he had to be pulled off the rocks.  Also one of my lines failed 
this year.  I did like the way you secured the loop at the cleat.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Nov 13, 2016, at 9:08 AM, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Dave. I hope Martin responds, he will be a great contact indeed. 
> 
> Our toe rail is symmetric, T-shaped, with screws on both sides of the 
> vertical part. Here are some photos:
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/sh/483a7kvckwx0ys5/AACbT_1GZsShvn8Xr7fWiHtRa?dl=0
> 
> We haven't found an exact match yet, so that's another task at hand. Some of 
> the photos include a ruler for scale (both cm and in), 
> 
> Also, I have been reading online about the C&C designs in the 1970s. I can't 
> find much about the limited edition 43', but here is what I am finding about 
> the hull to deck joint on other C&C designs from the 1970s: 
> 
> - the deck and hull are attached via an internal flange, which is bolted -- 
> is that typical?
> - the joint is also chemically bonded -- how does that work? is it common on 
> C&C? 
> - the toe rail is attached with screws (or bolts?) and provides additional 
> stiffness to the joint
> 
> Does this sound right? Is it typical for C&C construction at the time, or 
> could our hull/deck joint be very different?
> 
> What might happen when we remove the toe rail? 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Violeta
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Nov 12, 2016 at 6:16 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi Violeta,
>> 
>> There’s a gentleman on the list by the name of Martin DeYoung who owns a C&C 
>> 43. He has been working deck work on his boat and may be an informative 
>> source as regards your model. He hasn’t posted in some time but perhaps he 
>> may respond.
>> 
>> Perhaps if you could identify the type of toerail that your boat has it 
>> would help. You may find that many listers here have some experience. FWIW, 
>> a good surveyor should be able to tell you what you are up against. I have 
>> done a  complete deck lift and rebed on a Islander 37 with a teak toerail 
>> and one of my good friends has replaced the teak toerail with an aluminum 
>> toerail on his Cal 40. Non-trivial efforts in both cases.
>> 
>> Good luck with your task.
>> 
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
>> 
>>> On Nov 12, 2016, 
>>> at 2:19 PM, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Greetings all. 
>>> 
>>> Might someone here help with questions about the custom C&C 43' from 1973? 
>>> This was a limited edition and I think only fourteen boats were ever built. 
>>> We would like to replace the toe rail on our boat, but are unsure how that 
>>> might affect the hull/deck joint. 
>>> 
>>> Some specific questions:
>>> 
>>> 1 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973 C&C 43'? 
>>> 2 - How is the toe rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?
>>> 3 - What happens if we remove the toe rail (or part of it)? 
>>> 
>>> Good advice will be appreciated.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Violeta
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>   
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
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>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Before I went on my cruise to the Bahamas I researched tablets for 
waterproofness.  Only Sony advertised their tablet as water.  I'm not naive, I 
do not believe it to be truly water proof but splash proof yes. So I mounted 
the Sony at the helm on a home made mount.  I also carry an IPad, laptop, and 
Raymarine radar/chart plotter.  It's amazing how many times the systems didn't 
agree on my position.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Nov 1, 2016, at 5:49 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Am also looking for the right tablet choice - i use two ipad airs today, have 
> played with a laptop, and my work machine - MS-surface pro4. 
> 
> Will respectfully and gently disagree with Marek on suitability of a tablet - 
> IMO depending on the application a tablet is fine.   Not likely to take 
> Windstar 'round Cape Horn.  Am part way through integrating a tablet with my 
> instrumentation (with some great help from folks here) and for two seasons 
> have used an ipad, ram mount and lifeproof case.  Smashed one ipad season 1, 
> (it was in my backpack, which took a tumble belowdecks) bought the case, then 
> the mount.  None of it cheap, but it's good stuff.  Ram mount means I can 
> choose multiple locations.   Under the bimini, in the case, and on the mount, 
> many of the tablet's shortcomings are overcome, and it's fine and reliable 
> for Great Lakes daysailing and cruising.   I like its portability, 
> versatility,  being able to jump between apps, tether to my phone, etc, and 
> can update, upgrade or replace anything relatively inexpensively.  (I have 
> two ipads actually, and keep both onboard.  Have also downloaded the 
> chartplotter app to my iphone.)I like that I do not need a large pod and 
> upgraded rail at the helm - It's crowded and costly enough. 
> 
> Details, rambling discourses, and a few toned-down rants here: 
> 
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/09/electronics-what-to-do.html
> 
> Still issues to resolve with using the iPad.  It does many things well but 
> does not play 100% well with other applications.   Windows seems obvious 
> but I agree with Marek on the windows tablets, - if you get one, you must 
> get a good one.  Was ready to buy and after investigation I decided against 
> it.  (so far)   I have a surface pro 4 for work, works fine with a few 
> maddening quirks, but it is expensive, seems fragile, and the power 
> connection is definitely designed for on-the-desk use..  Also agree with 
> Marek on the smaller tablets - handier.   The ipad air especially the 
> MS-Surface are both very non-ergonomic in the hands, and easy to drop as you 
> know.   The lifeproof case helps this.   Whatever you get, make sure you can 
> also get a good case and mount.   Agreed also on the BT keyboard.  IF you 
> want a weatherproof and rugged case you will not have an attached keyboard.
> 
> Without a GPS receiver you can always get a dongle (fragile) or bluetooth 
> type.  Google "Bad elf" or Garmin GLO.  I have the latter and it works fine.  
> Windstar has 3 GPS antennae...
> 
> By using bluetooth and possibly onboard GPS you will require more frequent 
> charging.   Have installed a blueseas dual USB charger at my nav station 
> (handy)  but a rugged connection to power at the helm is a resolvable problem 
> I have not yet resolved.
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2016 02:27:45 +
> From: Marek Dziedzic 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best new tablet for nav/general use
> Message-ID:
> 
> 
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I do not believe that a tablet of any kind is a good enough navigation
> instrument (I have a Garmin 720 and I trust it much more (I can see the
> screen in full sunlight without problems, it is completely waterproof and I
> can operate it with keys (not touch)), but I find that if you want a tablet
> for anything you are much better off with a low cost ( I don't necessarily
> mean cheap) tablet that you can use as disposable. I had very good success
> with a Dell Venue Pro (Windows), an Acer (also Windows) and an ASUS Android
> one. I also find that the 7-8 inch tablets are much less prone to shattering
> problems (they are simply much easier to handle and they have a size that is
> much better for keeping in one's hand). The cost can be as low as just
> around $100 (8" Android) or around $200 for an 8" Windows. For that money
> you can break 3 and buy the 4th and you just come about to the cost of the
> Surface Pro or worse yet to the cost of a cheap iPad.
> 
> None of the generally available tablets is waterproof or even hardened, so I
> would not use it in the cockpit where it might be subjected to water damage.
> 
> 
> If you want a keyboard, you can easily buy a BT keyboard for under $30. Add
> 410 more an you have a complete system with a carrying case and keyboard.
> 
> I have a Surface at work and I don't find the screen any better than 1/4
> price Dell Venue (or e

Re: Stus-List Choosing an anchor for a C&C 35 mkll

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Greg

I have used a Delta Sure-set 35 exclusively for about 8 years. It has worked 
well from the Thousand Islands to the Bahamas.  I have sat through storms with 
gusts to 50 kts. and never drug.  I also carry a Bruce 45 and a Danforth 35 but 
am strongly thinking of removing them from the boat.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Oct 23, 2016, at 12:07 PM, Greg Swetka via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am having a bow roller/stemhead fitting made for my C&C 35 mkll... I am 
> looking for advice an choosing the proper size and type of anchor to use. My 
> fabricator wants to know what I am going to use to properly size the 
> fabrication. I am leaning towards the Delta or a cqr/plow style of anchor. I 
> am in the Great Lakes, so most of my anchoring is in weeds, mud, clay and 
> some sand. 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Oct 21, 2016, at 9:14 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>>   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>   http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>   cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>   cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>  1.  Butyl sealant (Gary Nylander)
>>  2. Re:  Butyl sealant (Dennis C.)
>>  3. Re:  Butyl sealant (Kevin Driscoll)
>>  4.  Slip Choice (robert)
>>  5. Re:  Slip Choice (Dennis C.)
>>  6. Re:  Slip Choice (Gary Russell)
>>  7.  Possible bargain C&C (Chuck Gilchrest)
>>  8. Re:  Slip Choice (Steve Thomas)
>>  9.  Slip Choice (robert)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2016 14:29:06 -0400
>> From: "Gary Nylander" 
>> To: 
>> Subject: Stus-List Butyl sealant
>> Message-ID: <01d22aff$d8d1a250$8a74e6f0$@atlanticbb.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl we
>> use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have that on
>> my old hard drive which cratered... can anyone give me the best source?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks, Gary
>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2016 13:35:02 -0500
>> From: "Dennis C." 
>> To: CnClist 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl sealant
>> Message-ID:
>>   
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 1:29 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl we
>>> use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have that on
>>> my old hard drive which cratered?.. can anyone give me the best source?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks, Gary
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2016 19:05:36 +
>> From: Kevin Driscoll 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Butyl sealant
>> Message-ID:
>>   
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> What Dennis said. Don't bother with anything else. (I've tried others...)
>> 
>> On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 11:35 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> 
>>> On Thu, Oct 20, 2016 at 1:29 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I know there have been many mentions of the best place to get the butyl we
>>> use to bed deck fittings, toe rails and whatever. Of course, I have that on
>>> my old hard drive which cratered?.. can anyone give me the best source?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks, Gary
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___

Re: Stus-List Winterizing 2GM20F

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Doesn't the engine anti-freeze contain rust inhibitors and the rv stuff doesn't?

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Oct 14, 2016, at 2:49 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> ???
> I think you are trying to find engine antifreeze. I have never tried that, I 
> always have used the pink propylene glycol sold all over the place to 
> winterize water systems in boats, vacation cottages, and RVs. It has no 
> ethylene glycol in it, you can drink it. I use the same stuff for the engine 
> and the water tanks.
> This is not engine coolant and is only used for winter layup. Someone on a 
> forum somewhere also explained that while ethylene glycol is quite poisonous 
> to DRINK, it does about the same harm as propylene glycol if dumped overboard.
> Joe
> Coquina
> Still two months away from antifreeze :)
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steve 
> Thomas via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2016 2:44 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Steve Thomas
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing 2GM20F
> 
> You might think that, but it is not. 
> Recochem used to make a propylene glycol engine antifreeze here that was 
> widely sold under various brand names, notably Prestolite, but they don't 
> anymore. It came as a something of a shock when it was no longer available. 
> Some automotive speed shops have a version that is imported from the States, 
> but it is absurdly expensive. None of the former retailers I talked to, 
> including Canadian Tire, could give me a reason for its disappearance from 
> the marketplace. There is sometimes available a premium plumbing antifreeze 
> that contains propylene glycol in some proportion but it doesn't say in what 
> proportion, and it still contains ethyl alcohol. In short, it is difficult 
> and expensive to find here, and for no apparent reason. I have resigned 
> myself to using the environmentally unfriendly ethylene glycol. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
> 
>  "Della Barba wrote: 
> ??
> Propylene glycol is very easy to get around here. I would think it would be a 
> very easy thing to find in Canada too. You all do have RVs and vacation 
> houses up there, right???
> Joe
> Coquina
> C&C 35 MK I
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
> Dziedzic via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2016 1:06 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Marek Dziedzic
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing 2GM20F
> 
> There is a school of thought that maintains that the impeller might 
> deteriorate in the antifreeze, especially, since most of the AF is Ethylene 
> Glycol. IIRC, the better one would be Propylene Glycol, but it is not easily 
> available.
> 
> Btw. if AF drains, it is only better (you don’t have to worry about water 
> diluting the AF.
> 
> Marek
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
> 
> From: David Platt via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2016 10:37
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: David Platt
> Subject: Re: Stus-List WInterizing 2GM20F
> 
> 
> Tim
> 
> I am curious about why you advocate taking the impeller out.  Won't 
> antifreeze drain out of your engine when you take the cover off the water 
> pump?
> 
> Respectfully
> 
> david
> 
> C&C 32 Wanderer
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!