Stus-List Re: Manual Bilge Pump

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Dave,

Mine also is a Henderson (no idea the mk #)...it is also a substantial 
black plastic pumpany idea where I might get a rebuild kit?


Rob




On 2024-10-17 5:42 p.m., Dave S wrote:

My ‘84 33mk2 had a Henderson mk 5.   Substantial Black plastic.  Easy rebuild 
and  IMO an excellent design.  One caveat when Rebuilding is to be gentle with 
the small  check valve screws as they can strip.
Dave


Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 17, 2024, at 7:44 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List  
wrote:

The manual bilge pump on my 1984 C&C 32 has failed .have yet to crawl into 
the locker to see if I can see its name and model #it appears to a somewhat 
large black apparatus. Assuming the diaphragm has failed.
Assuming if taken apart, the diaphragm might be replaced?  However, given the 
age of the old bilge pump. would it even be possible?  And where would i get a 
replacement diaphragm?
Would it be simply better to get a replacement, however, removing the existing pump from 
the approximately 4"to 5" hole in the side wall of the cockpit and getting one 
to fit exactly the same size might be a challenge.

Any experience or advice greatly appreciated!

Rob Abbott
AZURA 84- 32
Halifax, N.S

PS: I also have an electric bilge pump but would feel safer if the manual one 
worked.
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Stus-List Re: Manual Bilge Pump

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Tom,
I was able to get some info on the bilge pumpit was designed and 
made by Henderson Pumps Ltd, EnglandI will investigate them but if 
you have any thoughts, fell free.


Rob


On 2024-10-17 12:24 p.m., Tom Buscaglia wrote:

If it's a whalegusher here are rebuild kits that will make it good as new.

(\
Tom Buscaglia
Commodore
Quartermaster Yacht Club
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(305) 409-3660
www.sv-alera.com


On Oct 17, 2024, at 4:44 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List  
wrote:

The manual bilge pump on my 1984 C&C 32 has failed .have yet to crawl into 
the locker to see if I can see its name and model #it appears to a somewhat 
large black apparatus. Assuming the diaphragm has failed.
Assuming if taken apart, the diaphragm might be replaced?  However, given the 
age of the old bilge pump. would it even be possible?  And where would i get a 
replacement diaphragm?
Would it be simply better to get a replacement, however, removing the existing pump from 
the approximately 4"to 5" hole in the side wall of the cockpit and getting one 
to fit exactly the same size might be a challenge.

Any experience or advice greatly appreciated!

Rob Abbott
AZURA 84- 32
Halifax, N.S

PS: I also have an electric bilge pump but would feel safer if the manual one 
worked.
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

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Stus-List Manual Bilge Pump

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

The manual bilge pump on my 1984 C&C 32 has failed .have yet to 
crawl into the locker to see if I can see its name and model #it 
appears to a somewhat large black apparatus. Assuming the diaphragm has 
failed.
Assuming if taken apart, the diaphragm might be replaced?  However, 
given the age of the old bilge pump. would it even be possible?  And 
where would i get a replacement diaphragm?
Would it be simply better to get a replacement, however, removing the 
existing pump from the approximately 4"to 5" hole in the side wall of 
the cockpit and getting one to fit exactly the same size might be a 
challenge.


Any experience or advice greatly appreciated!

Rob Abbott
AZURA 84- 32
Halifax, N.S

PS: I also have an electric bilge pump but would feel safer if the 
manual one worked.

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Spreader Boots

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Wondering if anyone knows the size of Spreader Boots for a C&C 32.3" 
or 4".the ones on now are falling apartthey are a cloth type 
material but the new ones I will buy at the yacht shop are the standard 
white rubber type.   I would like to make one lift up the mast to 
replace ASAP and the correct size would facilitate that.


Robert Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 1984
Halifax, N.S.
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Stus-List Re: Kite jibing--end for end or dip pole?

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Charlie:

As a former fore deck racer familiar with both end for end and dip pole 
jibbing, my preference for a 35'er would be to dip pole jib. It requires 
a little more choreography of the crew to lower and raise the pole but 
if the crew and the helmsman do it properly, for me, it is easier and a 
lot safer, especially in a stiffer breeze.
And as Dennis has pointed out, moving the boat through the jib and not 
the chute is the key to a safe and easy jib.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2023-11-12 6:03 p.m., cenelson--- via CnC-List wrote:

Hey listers,

My 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb was originally set-up for dip-pole jibes using 
an aluminum pole and used the bayonet style fittings.


After it disappeared from my storage location, I decided to go with a 
carbon fiber pole from Forte and fit it for end-for-end jibes since it 
was now pretty light (~11 lbs).  We used it that way but recently we 
decided to go with the dip-pole jibes with this pole. The consensus 
was that for this length boat, the dip pole was the way to go.


However, I think this may be a carry over in thinking from the days 
when all poles were aluminum--at some pole length, such a pole length 
makes the pole too heavy to manhandle on the fore deck.My boat is sort 
of on the border at 36 feet (actually 35.5).


Some local racers suggest using the end for end in light air and the 
dip pole when the wind is up. Of course then my fore deck crew has to 
remember how to do the dance with both methods!


So what is the opinion of the listers--especially those who race AND 
use a kite?


Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom





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Stus-List winter storage

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

The key to keeping mast up during winter is the cradlethe boats with 
inadequate or damaged cradles are at risk.  I have seen several boats at 
my club where the boats have toppled and it was the cradle that failed 
in every instance.


And for loosening the rigging in winterno need if the rig is 
properly tuned at storagebesides, as someone here mentioned, the 
aluminum mast shrinks first in extreme cold.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- #277
halifax, N.S.

On 2023-10-18 11:19 a.m., Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Re mast up.  A friend stored his C&C 33-2 with mast up and it blew 
over in a winter storm.  He now has no mast.


With mast down possibly the reduced windage would have prevented the 
boat from blowing over but certainly would have not resulted in a mast 
broken in three areas.  The boat was on a cradle.


Food for thought

Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS

*From:*Bob Mann via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Wednesday, October 18, 2023 10:45 AM
*To:* Stus-List 
*Cc:* Bob Mann 
*Subject:* Stus-List winter storage

Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April. For 
those who store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud 
tension alone or do you loosen the shrouds for the winter? Bob Mann 
Mystic ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍ ‍


Here in Michigan it's time to winterize our boats until April. For 
those who store their boat with the mast up, do you leave shroud 
tension alone or do you loosen the shrouds for the winter?


Bob Mann

Mystic


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Stus-List C&C34 Yanmar 3GM 20hp Exhaust Elbow

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I replaced my mixing elbow several years ago on my Yanmar 2 GMF which 
was not a fun task.  The mixing elbow was attached to (threaded into) 
the exhaust flange and both had to be removed.  The mixing elbow could 
not be rotated to be removed while the exhaust flange was attached to 
the engine with four (4) long bolts.
Once both were removed, the job of separating the mixing elbow from the 
exhaust flange was relatively easy.put the exhaust flange in a large 
vice and unscrewed the mixing elbow.
Screwed the new mixing elbow to the exhaust flange and was ready to put 
them back on the engine.  Sounds easy but not so much.  Both together 
were heavy and working in the engine compartment with virtually one hand 
(left hand and I am right handed) was a challenge.
In order to place the 2 components back onto the engine I got two (2) 
identical bolts to the four (4) and cut the heads ofI screwed the 
two (2) bolts diagonally into the side of the engine...I was then able 
to slide the combined mixing elbow/exhaust flange onto the two (2) bolts 
as the heads were removed.
It was then a matter of screwing 2 of the 4 original bolts into place, 
unscrewing the 2 duds and inserting the remaining original 2 bolts.
If the job was done on a work bench, it would be no big deal but doing 
it in the engine compartment lying on your side was a challenge I would 
not to repeat.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2023-07-16 10:29 p.m., ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
I replaced mine after discovering a pinhole in the mixing elbow. It 
was corroded so badly that I couldn't remove it from the piece it was 
attached to, even heating it with a torch and using a five foot piece 
of pipe on a wrench for leverage. I removed both pieces together 
(easy) and replaced them with cast iron items. I was able to salvage 
the nipple.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



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Stus-List Re: Finally we have launched for the season!

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Mike:

Saw your arrival back home yesterday.serious composite sails!

Rob
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Stus-List Re: Finally we have launched for the season!

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Mike,

Persistence looks like a new boatyou must be very pleased.  Nice to 
see you back at the club soon.


Rob
PS:  Before you leave to come back, make sure the boat yard has your 
slip emptyI think there is a boat in it.there was one there earlier.




On 2023-05-24 9:24 a.m., Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Topsides paint job is now complete with boot and cove stripes and the 
boat back together and in the water


We are very pleased with the work done by East River Shipyard in Nova 
Scotia


The end result can be seen here www.hoytsailing.com 



Aside from 2020 when marine services in our club were shut down into 
May this is the latest we have ever launched!


Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS


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Stus-List Re: stove cover heat shield

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Glen

I have the Origo alcohol stove.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2023-05-17 11:04 a.m., Glen Eddie via CnC-List wrote:


Does anyone else still have the original alcohol stove (other than me)?

*Glen Eddie**​**​**​**​***

Legal services provided through J. Glen Eddie Professional Corporation

Tel: 416-777-5357 

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​This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the 
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you have received this message in error, please notify the sender and 
delete this email message. Thank you.



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Stus-List Persistence

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Mike,

When do you plan to bring your boat back to the club?

Bob
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Stus-List Question

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I understand it is quite doable and I have yet to see it happen, 
however, has anyone heard of a Nonsuch sailor using an asymmetrical chute?



Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.
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Stus-List J-105

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Jeff,
If you don't me asking, which J-105 do you race on.

Rob Abbott
AZURA

On 2023-03-02 9:56 a.m., Jeff Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
Yes to both of your questions...They are nuts and it is pretty good 
chunk of a new sail.
I resolved the problem by purchasing a Juki industrial sewing machine 
for $500 used from a local business.
I'm now in the process of building a new Main cover, but I will have 
repairs to my main sail as well.
My costs were around $500 for the fabric, thread, and closure hardware 
and $500 for the machine + a few beers for

friends to help me move it.

So, all in I'm out about what it would have cost to purchase one, but 
now I am self sufficient.


I realize that I'm comparing apples and oranges here, but I suspect 
the work involved in ripping the old UV cover off and
adding a new UV cover to a sail is likely the same effort as building 
a main cover with a pattern.  Materials might be less
as you can add many smaller strips off a yard of fabric.  I think in 
my future, I'm going to go with the sock method for UV

covers.  We use one on the J-105 I race on and it isn't a big burden.

Anyhow food for thought.
Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30 - 549
   Armdale Y.C.
On 2023-03-02 09:09, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


My post about this from last June:

“The UV cover on my genoa is starting to fail, so I took it to Bacons 
to get repaired. I figured 5 or 6 boat bucks maybe. Well I figured 
wrong, the estimate came back at $1350! Yikes!


Are they nuts or is this the going rate now? That seems like a pretty 
good chunk of an entire sail!”


That included about $375 worth of repairs, but still at about $1000 
for the UV strip I think it was double the last time I had that job done.


Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

*From:* Novabraid via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Wednesday, March 1, 2023 1:27 PM
*To:* 'Stus-List' 
*Cc:* csgilchr...@comcast.net
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: Furling Sail C&C 35 Mk I

North Sails used to make a jib sock to put over a roller furled jib.  
I’m curious if the lofts still offer it.  I know the one in Annapolis 
used to make them.


Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

On Wed, Mar 1, 2023, 9:47 AM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List,
 wrote:

Don,

You mentioned that you replaced the sun cover on your furling
sail.

I am interested at the costs, as when I tried last year, I
couldn't find a solution that was cost effective. The costs
of replacing the sun cover (and I wanted just a

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site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List UV Strip

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I had the UV strip replaced on my 135% last year by Doyle Sails 
here...all in cost was $575 CDN .    Old UV strip 12 to 13 years old and 
cracking/splitting.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.




On 2023-03-02 9:09 a.m., Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


My post about this from last June:

“The UV cover on my genoa is starting to fail, so I took it to Bacons 
to get repaired. I figured 5 or 6 boat bucks maybe. Well I figured 
wrong, the estimate came back at $1350! Yikes!


Are they nuts or is this the going rate now? That seems like a pretty 
good chunk of an entire sail!”


That included about $375 worth of repairs, but still at about $1000 
for the UV strip I think it was double the last time I had that job done.


Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA


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Stus-List Shower

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

My 32 has the same set up...shower hose from the sink facet...sump with 
a teak gratesump pump under the sink for a separate discharge just 
below the toe rail opposite the head starboard side.


All woks fine but never use it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2023-02-15 1:59 p.m., Matt Wolford via CnC-List wrote:


That was the set-up on the 42 Custom.  A shower hose was integral to 
the sink faucet.  On my boat, the shower head was attached to a wall 
rack for adjusting the height.  The floor is a teak grate with a very 
thin plastic catch pan underneath.  The pan drained to a “sump” pump 
with a separate discharge.  I removed everything but the drain pan, 
which now has a hose to drain to the bilge.  I’m in the process of 
installing a shower on deck for use after swimming.


*From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 12:38 PM
*To:* Stus-List 
*Cc:* Bill Coleman 
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: Shower drain


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Stus-List Re: Replacing cabin windows

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

My 32 has two windows on each side, and one, the long one has a 
significant curvature which puzzled me as to how I would keep it in 
place without a frame, screws, bolts etc.  Job done 10 years ago and the 
windows today have no issues.


First, I removed the old windows using a stiff putty knife which I filed 
the edge very sharp and tapped on the inside of the window slowly and 
carefully with a rubber hammer to cut the old Plexus. I cleaned the 
Plexus from the old windows as they were used as a template to cut the 4 
new windows.


Where the old windows came out, you may find the Plexus lifted some of 
the gelcoatyou can fill and smooth over with a filler or just leave 
it as the adhesive will take care of it.


At the time, I was not aware of the VHB tape so I used Sika 295 UV and 
the Sika Primer..I can not stress enough the need to include the 
Sika Primer and it is more expensive that the Sika 295 UV which I used 2 
tubes (not all of it but I needed some of the second tube).  The Sika 
295 UV will not bond properly without the Sika Primer.


The new windows will have paper on both sides so you have to put them in 
the cabin sides and draw around from the inside so the paper can be cut 
away where they fit into the cabin side.  With sand paper, rough up the 
new window where they will be mounted.


I taped both the inside and outside of the cabin..the Sika 295 UV is 
very dirty stuffyou will need a solvent and lots of rags handy.  I 
applied the Sika to both where the windows will be mounted, liberally as 
I wanted it to ooze out when I pushed the windows into place and some on 
the edge of each window itself.


I resorted to cutting 3 pieces of 2" X 4"'s approx 23" long for each 
window to brace it after applying the adhesive..I put the 3 pieces 
of wood against the window and braced them against the toerail placing a 
10 pound rock on each piece of wood to ensure it stayed in 
place.left the braces on for 48 hours to allow sufficient curing 
time with the moderate Spring temperature.


If I were to do it again and was assured that the VHB tape would address 
the curvature issue with the wooden braces, I would use the VHB tape, 
regardless of cost.  While the Sika 295 UV and Sika Primer is effective, 
it is more labor intensive with the application and it is messy if you 
are not prepared.



Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.








On 2023-02-09 7:18 p.m., John Read via CnC-List wrote:


I did the windows myself on my 34 over 10 years ago.  Biggest issue 
was the plexus the factory used to attach the original windows would 
not release causing damage to the gel coat underneath which required 
repair.  Major PITA.  But all is well that ends well.  Windows still 
going strong no leaks.  Used the SIKA 295 system.  Key to stay within 
shelf life and follow directions exactly.  Sensitive to temperature 
and humidity.  I used small pieces of 1/8 inch tubing to ensure window 
was proud to the gel coat and screws at each corner to hold plexi in 
place while the SIKA cured. This ensured adequate thickness of the 
SIKA so it could flex as the boat moved.  Just removed screws and 
filled holes with SIKA after it cured.  Be sure to mask and tape 
everything anywhere near the windows as is impossible to remove if 
some gets to an unwanted surface.


Best of luck

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT


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Stus-List Re: C&C33-2 Symmetrical Spinnaker

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

On 2023-01-16 3:11 p.m., andrew--- via CnC-List wrote:


Good day,

I finally found a pole for my recently acquired symmetrical 
spinnakers, and time to get the boat setup for spinnaker, and was 
hoping for some input from the group.


The boat has never been setup for spinnaker.

1.

Baby stay - it is currently fixed and not adjustable and I believe
the purpose is to introduce a bit of mid mast bend to flatten the
sail, and also to prevent excessive mast flex when pounding up
wind. I would think that this needs to be disengaged to make
gybing possible. Any suggestions other than mounting a track on
the cabin top?

2.

Gybing - if I could temporary disengage baby stay I could dip
gybe. End to end gybing may be possible if baby stays engaged.
Does anybody have any experience with gybing asymmetrical on 33-2?

3.

Downhaul - I could mount hardware on deck for downhaul (I would
assume deck would be strong enough with just a backing plate? Or
another option would be to run sheet and guy, and use the guy,
with a forward lead, as a downhaul. Not sure if the angle would be
sufficient, probably OK though.

4.

Topping lift - there is an entrance maybe 2/3 up the mast. I would
assume this has a sheave (I will go up the mast within the month,
but wondering if anybody knows if there would be a sheave. I would
think there would be but wanted to check.

5.

Mast track - seems like lot’s of work was just thinking of a
single attachment point head high(ish).

Anyhow as you’ve gathered the boat was never setup for spinnaker. We 
will do some local club racing and also cruise, and looking for some 
input, or some good online resources to help me make the decisions on 
what needs to be done. Also we only have a pair of primaries and an 
addition pair is not in the short term plan.


Thanks!

Andy




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Stus-List C&C33-2 Symmetrical Spinnaker

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Andy:

Comments below question(s)...raced a 33-2 and did the foredeck.



Good day,

I finally found a pole for my recently acquired symmetrical 
spinnakers, and time to get the boat setup for spinnaker, and was 
hoping for some input from the group.


The boat has never been setup for spinnaker.

1.

Baby stay - it is currently fixed and not adjustable and I believe
the purpose is to introduce a bit of mid mast bend to flatten the
sail, and also to prevent excessive mast flex when pounding up
wind. I would think that this needs to be disengaged to make
gybing possible. Any suggestions other than mounting a track on
the cabin top?

  Baby stay should be disengaged to gybe..if no mast track, end 
to end gybe recommended.


1.

Gybing - if I could temporary disengage baby stay I could dip
gybe. End to end gybing may be possible if baby stays engaged.
Does anybody have any experience with gybing asymmetrical on 33-2?

   Once again, disconnect baby stay before gybing...let it remain 
hanging freedo not do end for end gybe with baby stay 
attachedwhile it can be done, it is not recommended. Dip jib 
needs a mast track and both a guy and lazy guy.repeat, dip jib 
without a guy and lazy guy much more difficult.


1.

Downhaul - I could mount hardware on deck for downhaul (I would
assume deck would be strong enough with just a backing plate? Or
another option would be to run sheet and guy, and use the guy,
with a forward lead, as a downhaul. Not sure if the angle would be
sufficient, probably OK though.


   Install foredeck hardware with a backing plate for your downhaul.

1. Topping lift - there is an entrance maybe 2/3 up the mast. I would 
assume this has a sheave (I will go up the mast within the month, but 
wondering if anybody knows if there would be a sheave. I would think 
there would be but wanted to check.


The mast entrance 2/3 up the mast probably has a sheave and if so that 
is your topping liftuse it.



1.

Mast track - seems like lot’s of work was just thinking of a
single attachment point head high(ish).

Mast track on a 33-2 is really not neededdo end for end 
gybesmuch simpler.


Regards
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.


Anyhow as you’ve gathered the boat was never setup for spinnaker. We 
will do some local club racing and also cruise, and looking for some 
input, or some good online resources to help me make the decisions on 
what needs to be done. Also we only have a pair of primaries and an 
addition pair is not in the short term plan.


Thanks!

Andy




Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 32 Babystay

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

My 84 C&C 32 has a babystay at a single point of attachment...no track.  
The babystay attaches to a SS plate with a loop on the foredeckthis 
plate is then attached through the deck to a SS rod running from the 
deck roof down to the hull in the very front of the V berth immediately 
to the starboard of the V berth entrance.it does not obstruct 
passage in or out.   Both the on deck bbstay and the rod below have a 
turnbuckle to adjustment although I will admit I have never adjusted the 
below deck one.  I normally have approx 700 lbs of tension on it.


Given the size of the mast and type of sailing I do, I am of the opinion 
I really don't need it.   But since Rob Ball designed the boat for one, 
I use it.  There was an 84 C&C 32 at my club that took his babystay off 
and he never had any issues going up and down the coast of Nova Scotia


If you are doing sailing in heavy weather and big seas where the mast 
might be pumping a lot, the babystay would help to stabilize the rig but 
otherwise do you really need it?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-11-23 11:22 p.m., Macdara Vallely via CnC-List wrote:
So, I believe that my 82 C&C 32 had the option for a babystay.  It's 
listed in the brochure, and there is a fitting for what looks to be a 
t-ball fitting just above the spreaders.


No deck fittings on my boat though.

Has anyone gone to the bother of installing the deck fitting?   If so, 
would you mind advising me on how you went about it?


Did you go for a fixed point, or track?  Chainplate to bulkhead; 
transfer the loads through deck to stringers below or beef up deck?  
Also, how did you tension?  How was it stowed?


I'm interested in installing the babystay to beef up the rig a 
little.  The rod-rigging is of indeterminate age, and while it has 
been professionally inspected and passed muster, I am a belt 
for braces guy and I was thinking the babystay might offer some 
redundancy.


I appreciate all advice and speculation offered.

Thank you.
Macdara



Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Bob Abbott

Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Persistence

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Mike, I haven't seen your boat at the club in awhilewhere is it?

Bob

Stus-List Re: CnC 30 mk 1 sink

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Try the RV shops.they carry a variety of sinks.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2022-10-17 10:16 a.m., Leeward Rail via CnC-List wrote:
Someone on a forum is asking about a source for a replacement galley 
for a1982 C&C 30.


Any ideas where to find one that will fit reasonably well?

They said that have been looking at a ton of bar sinks and have yet to 
find one that will fit.


Thanks on behalf of another owner.

Cheers
Roy

Stus-List Marinco Nicro Day/Night Solar Vent motor replacement

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

My Nicro Solar Vent on the front hatch came with the boat when I bought 
it 16 years ago (2006)it still works fine...no idea actually how old 
it is...I replaced the rechargeable battery maybe 6 years agoit 
doesn't look as pretty as yours...mine has a white plastic frame.   
Sooner or later the sun will deteriorate the frame but I will wait until 
that happens .


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-09-16 5:16 p.m., Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
I wish somebody would make a bombproof solar day/night vent.  I get 
about 4-6 years out of the Nicro day/night vents.  At $180 a pop that 
can add up.


However, I don't replace them anymore.  If replacing the battery 
doesn't work, it's usually the motor.  I keep a spare with a 
replacement motor.  When one fails, I just swap the vents and replace 
the motor in the dead one to keep as the spare.


Anyway, the motor is under $10.  I just bought a two pack of them on 
Amazon for $9.  Search for RF-500TB DC hobby motor.  The voltage may 
vary from 3-10 VDC.  The listed RPM can run up to 6000 but with the 
blade on, it's much less.  Its approximate dimensions are 32 mm (1.2 
in) diameter x 19-20 mm (0.76 in) tall.


If you're handy with a soldering iron/gun, it's about a 20-30 minute 
job to replace the motor.  The trick is to pull the entire assembly 
out of the housing.  Makes soldering a lot easier. Here's a step by 
step procedure.


 1. Remove the three mounting screws and save the o-rings (Important!)
 2. Remove the rubber cover on the switch and then the switch
retaining ring
 3. Remove the fan blade
 4. Remove the solar panel assembly.  There are pry slots opposite
each other on the periphery
 5. Remove the tiny screw beside the switch that holds in the motor
assembly
 6. Note the color of wires to the battery contacts.  It would be
smart to mark white and black on the housing by the +/- marks
 7. Using needle nose pliers, pull up and remove the battery contacts.
 8. Remove the battery contact/switch/motor assembly
 9. Note the wiring and maybe draw a diagram for reference
10. Unsolder the motor wires and solder in the new motor
11. Put a couple wraps of duct tape around the body of the motor to
keep it firmly in place.  The motor is a bit small.
12. Reassemble in reverse order

For reference, it's the Marinco Nicro model like this:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f-koKUykESjorhZhwg6sZ2GS0MNYqUu5/view?usp=sharing
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Stus-List Re: Water back flowing through the head

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Rod
Had the same issue a few years back with my Jabsco marine toilet...went 
to the Binnacle to get kit to repairthey talked me into a new pump 
instead...almost the same price and a lot less work from taking the old 
one apart, installing new parts and putting back together.

New pump very easy to install.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S

On 2022-08-30 7:36 a.m., StrightR--- via CnC-List wrote:


Has anyone experienced water back flowing through the head despite dry 
bowl left in the closed position?  Raritan head. Assume it could be a 
defective Joker valve or flapper valve.  Anyone had a similar problem 
and if so what was the cure.


Thanks

Rod

Stus-List Re: Sea Foam

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I mentioned this a few weeks backmid June my Yanmar 2 GMF was 
producing black smoke when starting up and would not rev above 2,100 RPM's.


Late last season, I decided to do some regular maintenance and checked 
my air filterthere was no air filter material...it had 
disintegrateddidn't have a new one on hand so genius here cut a 
piece of sponge and fitted it in the metal ring.  Engine worked fine.   
But over the winter the sponge more than likely absorbed some water 
which would restrict air flow through it.


I had a new Yanmar air filter on the boat which I got late last year and 
never installedchanged out the sponge and replaced with new one, and 
guess what, in neutral, the engine revived up to 3,400 ran the 
engine in forward gear at the slip for another 20 minutes shut the 
engine off...started again...revved up and downengine works as it 
should.


The problem was a lack of airexplains where the smoke was coming 
from and the low RPM'sincomplete combustion because of restricted 
air flow.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2022-07-19 8:20 a.m., Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


If the exhaust hose is on fire, it sure can!

Normally it indicates a very rich mixture, which in a diesel means the 
engine is constrained in some way like being over-propped or with a 
clogged air filter.


Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

*From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Monday, July 18, 2022 6:13 PM
*To:* Stus-List 
*Cc:* Robert Abbott 
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: Sea Foam

Also, lots of black smoke can be either a fuel problem or a lack of 
air problem


On 2022-07-18 1:44 p.m., Matthew via CnC-List wrote:

Lots of black can be overheating.

Stus-List Re: Sea Foam

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Also, lots of black smoke can be either a fuel problem or a lack of air 
problem


On 2022-07-18 1:44 p.m., Matthew via CnC-List wrote:


Lots of black can be overheating.

*From:* Joe via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Monday, July 18, 2022 12:40 PM
*To:* Stus-List 
*Cc:* Joe 
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: Sea Foam

White is water or coolant

Blue is lube oil

Black is too much fuel or poor combustion

Joe

Sent from my iPhone



On Jul 18, 2022, at 12:08, Neil Andersen via CnC-List
 wrote:



White smoke is steam from overheating.  Blueish smoke is unburned
fuel I was always told

Neil Andersen, W3NEA

Rock Hall, MD 21661

484-354-8800



*From:*Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Monday, July 18, 2022 10:29:28 AM
*To:* Stus-List 
*Cc:* Doug Mountjoy 
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: Sea Foam

Bill, the white smoke is in burned fuel. If it is only at idle
when the engine is cool..I wouldn't worry about it. My yanmar
smokes when cold. It is just the nature of the beast. I talked to
a Yanmar mechanic and he said, as long as it is only when cold it
ok. I was going to replace the injectors and high pressure pump.
Until I heard that.

Doug Mountjoy

C&C Landfall 39

Sabré 34

On Mon, Jul 18, 2022, 07:11 Bill Coleman via CnC-List
 wrote:

Wondering what you are trying to achieve, as I was just about
to start a discussion on white smoke. I am thinking that has
more to do with unburnt diesel. Was thinking about new
injectors, but maybe I will try some of this Motor magic, and
then do the injectors. It doesn't seem to be burning oil, as
it is clean as a whistle, and not using any.

I am already using FPPF 8+ Cetane Improver, and Lubricity Plus
Fuel Power. And of course BioBor.

If none of this works, I will try spraying water/Soap into the
Turbo as the Manual suggests for carbon.

Bill Coleman

Entrada Erie PA

On Mon, Jul 18, 2022 at 1:24 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List
 wrote:

Every time. Also in the dinghy motor gas, mower gas,
snowblower gas...


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On Thu, 7 Jul 2022 at 05:59, Wade Glew via CnC-List
 wrote:

Does anyone put Sea Foam in their Diesel fuel?

Wade Glew

Oh Boy, 33 MK II

Lake of the Woods

Stus-List diesel engine air filter

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Josh,

You are absolutely correct about sound deadening material disintegrating 
all over the engine roomthat is the case on my boat...the stuff on 
my boat is now so old it should be removedthe black dust particles 
are quite apparent in the engine compartment.


Actually thinking about moving it and replacing it with either new 
material or a different material.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-07-01 10:41 p.m., Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Neil, you're not wrong about the air being relatively clean but 
everyone should consider just how small 5 microns is while also 
remembering the last time the sound deadening material disintegrated 
all over the engine compartment.  Its also fascinating the speed at 
which the bilge gets dirty on a clean boat.  If the air truly is clean 
then ANY filter should last forever.  If, on the other hand, there is 
some mishap then any filter will help mitigate damage to the engine.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
et Outlook for Android 

Stus-List Yanmar 2 GMF

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Dave,

The truth be known, genius here 2 or 3 years ago took the old filter out 
and it had pretty much had been disintegratednot having a new Yanmar 
air filter, but the old metal ring, I took a piece of a sponge and cut 
it to fit into the metal ring and thought it was all O.K.   The sponge 
will filter the air.    Right?


Well no, it did work for a while but a genuine Yanmar air filter works 
better.as I found out.


There, I confessedit was me that caused the problem.   The new 
Yanmar air filter cost $45 here which seems like a lot for a simple 
device.  But $45 is not a lot when the pain, angst, and disruption of 
one's sailing season is in jeopardy.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-06-29 2:06 p.m., Dave S via CnC-List wrote:
Good to hear.   How the heck did the old one get that clogged?   Bad 
decade for mosquitoes?


Dave



On Tue, 28 Jun 2022 at 22:19, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
 wrote:



While I awaited another day for a marine mechanic to get around to
addressing my engine problem, while on the boat today, I thought of
something.    I had a new Yanmar air filter on the boat which I
got last
year, which I thought what harm could a new air filter
dochanged out
the old one and replaced with new one, and guess what, in neutral,
the
engine revived up to 3,400 before i stoppedran the engine in
forward
gear at the slip for another 20 minutes shut the engine
off...started again...revved up and downengine works as it should.

The problem was a lack of airexplains where the smoke was coming
fromincomplete combustion...now, with the new air filter, no
smoke.

Thanks to everyone for thoughts/possibilities of what might be the
cause
of my engine issue.

Going for a sail tomorrow.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

Stus-List Yanmar 2 GMF

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

While I awaited another day for a marine mechanic to get around to 
addressing my engine problem, while on the boat today, I thought of 
something.    I had a new Yanmar air filter on the boat which I got last 
year, which I thought what harm could a new air filter dochanged out 
the old one and replaced with new one, and guess what, in neutral, the 
engine revived up to 3,400 before i stoppedran the engine in forward 
gear at the slip for another 20 minutes shut the engine 
off...started again...revved up and downengine works as it should.


The problem was a lack of airexplains where the smoke was coming 
fromincomplete combustion...now, with the new air filter, no smoke.


Thanks to everyone for thoughts/possibilities of what might be the cause 
of my engine issue.


Going for a sail tomorrow.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

Stus-List Yanmar 2 GMF

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Prop is cleanshouldn't matter if the prop is dirty, the engine won't 
rev above 2,100 RPM's when in neutral.


On 2022-06-27 12:32 p.m., Korbey Hunt wrote:

Is the prop clean?

Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
----
*From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Monday, June 27, 2022 5:58:50 AM
*To:* Josh ; Stus-List 
*Cc:* Robert Abbott 
*Subject:* Stus-List Yanmar 2 GMF
Josh:

Revived the engine at the slip out of gear (neutral)same result, 
tack goes up to +2,100  RPM's .providing more throttle does not 
increase the RPM's.   Pretty sure the tack is working just from the 
sound of the engine and maximum hull speed it could attain (maybe 4 knots)


Yes, getting black smoke especially just after starting the engine and 
reviving it a bitthen it stops.


Boat can not motor up to hull speed right now at 2,100 RPM's.

All good tips and very helpful however I am leaving it in the hands of 
the marine mechanic.  I asked him to address this problem and give the 
engine a thorough inspection.  He said he would get to it 
today.fingers crossed.


Rob

On 2022-06-26 11:50 p.m., Josh wrote:
You should also try to rev the engine with it out of gear.  If it has 
the same problem of reaching full RPM then fuel and air delivery are 
nearly to only possible culprits.


A bad or weak governor spring would be indicated by an engine that 
has a tendency to over speed or hunt.  Pulling the throttle faster 
applies pressure to open the fuel rack and provide more fuel.  More 
fuel create more RPM and the governor the creates a feedback force 
that resists the fuel rack.  The governor tries to slow the engine 
whereas the throttle tries to speed it up.  Without the governor the 
engine will tend to race, have high RPM, limited throttle control, 
and is lively to overspreed.


When you get to 2100 RPM do you get heave black smoke?  If you do the 
engine is getting plenty of fuel but not enough air.  Have you 
checked or simply removed the air cleaner?  When was the last time 
the backlash was checked on the lifters.  I can walk you through it 
if you don't know.


If you're not getting black smoke, are you getting any change in smoke?

Are you getting a correlating loss of power or stumbling?  Or is it 
just not going faster?  Was it not able to push the boat at normal 
full speed.  Are you confident in the accuracy of the RPM gage.  You 
can get a laser tach from Amazon for less than $20 to confirm the RPM.


As the high pressure fuel pump and fuel injectors age they have 
springs that get weak.  Weak pump springs will allow the tappets to 
"float" and not achieve a full intake stroke of fuelcausing a low 
fuel condition resulting in lower RPM.  If the injectors are dirty or 
have weak springs they won't achieve full fuel pressure before 
injection and may even leak a small amount into the cylinder before 
TDC.  This is probably good more likely to cause detonation (ping or 
knock), not exacly low RPM but none the less is sub optimum operation.


Have you checked the oil for fuel dilution?  The fuel lift pump is 
driven off a cam and if the diaphragm cracks or tears it will leak 
fuel into the crank case.  This may also let crankcase pressure into 
the high pressure fuel pump...reducing fuel delivery and RPM.  Pull 
the dip stick, drop some oil on a paper towel.  Smell it for diesel 
smell. Wait and observe for a halo.  Especially if you have red 
diesel the halo is seen as the clearish red halo around the black oil 
spot.


If all of that checks.  Then you need to get a little more invasive.  
A compression check is in order.  I can walk you through it and 
provide parts(tools).  It is definitely doable as DIY but you got 
some investigation to do first. Let me know.  Reach out with a PM and 
we can talk.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

Jun 26, 2022 09:39:09 Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
 <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>:



Went to take the boat out Friday for a short sail .motoring
out heading into a12 knt breezestarted to increase the RPM's
and found the engine wouldn't rev about 2,100 RPM's marine
diesel's are not supposed to be that complicated but they are to
me.  I wouldn't know where to start to trouble shootgetting a
mechanic to deal with it this week.  I spoke to him and told him
the situation and he thinks it is a fuel problemengine not
getting enough fuelmy fuel tank and fuel should be clean as I
had the bottom of it replaced 2 years ago and the 2 fuel filters
replaced. He thinks one or both of the filters are restricting
the fuel flow.I hope he is right but I don't think so.

Possibly many are causesrestricted fuel injectors, fuel pump,
etc.  the engine has never been serviced in the 16 years I
have h

Stus-List Yanmar 2 GMF

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Josh:

Revived the engine at the slip out of gear (neutral)same result, 
tack goes up to +2,100  RPM's .providing more throttle does not 
increase the RPM's.   Pretty sure the tack is working just from the 
sound of the engine and maximum hull speed it could attain (maybe 4 knots)


Yes, getting black smoke especially just after starting the engine and 
reviving it a bitthen it stops.


Boat can not motor up to hull speed right now at 2,100 RPM's.

All good tips and very helpful however I am leaving it in the hands of 
the marine mechanic.  I asked him to address this problem and give the 
engine a thorough inspection.  He said he would get to it 
today.fingers crossed.


Rob

On 2022-06-26 11:50 p.m., Josh wrote:
You should also try to rev the engine with it out of gear.  If it has 
the same problem of reaching full RPM then fuel and air delivery are 
nearly to only possible culprits.


A bad or weak governor spring would be indicated by an engine that has 
a tendency to over speed or hunt.  Pulling the throttle faster applies 
pressure to open the fuel rack and provide more fuel. More fuel create 
more RPM and the governor the creates a feedback force that resists 
the fuel rack.  The governor tries to slow the engine whereas the 
throttle tries to speed it up. Without the governor the engine will 
tend to race, have high RPM, limited throttle control, and is lively 
to overspreed.


When you get to 2100 RPM do you get heave black smoke?  If you do the 
engine is getting plenty of fuel but not enough air.  Have you checked 
or simply removed the air cleaner?  When was the last time the 
backlash was checked on the lifters.  I can walk you through it if you 
don't know.


If you're not getting black smoke, are you getting any change in smoke?

Are you getting a correlating loss of power or stumbling?  Or is it 
just not going faster?  Was it not able to push the boat at normal 
full speed.  Are you confident in the accuracy of the RPM gage. You 
can get a laser tach from Amazon for less than $20 to confirm the RPM.


As the high pressure fuel pump and fuel injectors age they have 
springs that get weak.  Weak pump springs will allow the tappets to 
"float" and not achieve a full intake stroke of fuelcausing a low 
fuel condition resulting in lower RPM.  If the injectors are dirty or 
have weak springs they won't achieve full fuel pressure before 
injection and may even leak a small amount into the cylinder before 
TDC.  This is probably good more likely to cause detonation (ping or 
knock), not exacly low RPM but none the less is sub optimum operation.


Have you checked the oil for fuel dilution?  The fuel lift pump is 
driven off a cam and if the diaphragm cracks or tears it will leak 
fuel into the crank case.  This may also let crankcase pressure into 
the high pressure fuel pump...reducing fuel delivery and RPM. Pull the 
dip stick, drop some oil on a paper towel.  Smell it for diesel 
smell.  Wait and observe for a halo.  Especially if you have red 
diesel the halo is seen as the clearish red halo around the black oil 
spot.


If all of that checks.  Then you need to get a little more invasive.  
A compression check is in order.  I can walk you through it and 
provide parts(tools).  It is definitely doable as DIY but you got some 
investigation to do first.  Let me know.  Reach out with a PM and we 
can talk.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

Jun 26, 2022 09:39:09 Robert Abbott via CnC-List :


Went to take the boat out Friday for a short sail .motoring
out heading into a12 knt breezestarted to increase the RPM's
and found the engine wouldn't rev about 2,100 RPM's marine
diesel's are not supposed to be that complicated but they are to
me.  I wouldn't know where to start to trouble shootgetting a
mechanic to deal with it this week.  I spoke to him and told him
the situation and he thinks it is a fuel problemengine not
getting enough fuelmy fuel tank and fuel should be clean as I
had the bottom of it replaced 2 years ago and the 2 fuel filters
replaced. He thinks one or both of the filters are restricting the
fuel flow.I hope he is right but I don't think so.

Possibly many are causesrestricted fuel injectors, fuel pump,
etc.  the engine has never been serviced in the 16 years I
have had the boat

Any insight or guidance to help greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

John
I have never had the exhaust riser inspectedI now know what one is 
and what it does (didn't before)) and even if turns out it is something 
else, I will be checking or, having checked, the exhaust riserdon't 
want or need the damage from one of them to failing if it can be avoided.


Rob



On 2022-06-26 6:04 p.m., John Read via CnC-List wrote:


My first thought is blocked exhaust riser – especially if has been 
several years since last checked.  Causes high back pressure causing 
engine not able to rev to spec


John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

*From:*Robert Abbott via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
*Sent:* Sunday, June 26, 2022 9:38 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Robert Abbott
*Subject:* Stus-List Yanmar 2 GMF


Went to take the boat out Friday for a short sail .motoring out 
heading into a12 knt breezestarted to increase the RPM's and found 
the engine wouldn't rev about 2,100 RPM's marine diesel's are not 
supposed to be that complicated but they are to me.  I wouldn't know 
where to start to trouble shootgetting a mechanic to deal with it 
this week.  I spoke to him and told him the situation and he thinks it 
is a fuel problemengine not getting enough fuelmy fuel tank 
and fuel should be clean as I had the bottom of it replaced 2 years 
ago and the 2 fuel filters replaced. He thinks one or both of the 
filters are restricting the fuel flow.I hope he is right but I 
don't think so.


Possibly many are causesrestricted fuel injectors, fuel pump, 
etc.  the engine has never been serviced in the 16 years I have 
had the boat


Any insight or guidance to help greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Rod

Mixing elbow, muffler (from small SS to larger resin) and exhaust hose 
were all replaced a few years back.  I'd be surprised if the problem was 
there.


Rob



On 2022-06-26 2:59 p.m., Rod Stright wrote:


Mixing elbow can cause problems like you experienced.

*From:*Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
*Sent:* June-26-22 12:40 PM
*To:* Josh ; Stus-List 
*Cc:* Robert Abbott 
*Subject:* Stus-List Yanmar 2 GMF

Bottom and prop is cleanboat is launched every Spring after Winter 
layup.


Checked the throttle cable and that seems to be finemost likely a 
fuel issue


On 2022-06-26 11:44 a.m., Josh wrote:

Is the bottom and prop clean?

Jun 26, 2022 09:39:09 Robert Abbott via CnC-List
 <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>:


Went to take the boat out Friday for a short sail
.motoring out heading into a12 knt breezestarted to
increase the RPM's and found the engine wouldn't rev about
2,100 RPM's marine diesel's are not supposed to be that
complicated but they are to me.  I wouldn't know where to
start to trouble shootgetting a mechanic to deal with it
this week.  I spoke to him and told him the situation and he
thinks it is a fuel problemengine not getting enough
fuelmy fuel tank and fuel should be clean as I had the
bottom of it replaced 2 years ago and the 2 fuel filters
replaced. He thinks one or both of the filters are restricting
the fuel flow.I hope he is right but I don't think so.

Possibly many are causesrestricted fuel injectors, fuel
pump, etc.  the engine has never been serviced in the 16
years I have had the boat

Any insight or guidance to help greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

Stus-List Yanmar 2 GMF

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

The mechanic took a quick look on Friday and felt it was a fuel 
issuemaybe dirty filters (although the tank was out of the boat 2 
years ago and pressure cleaned, both primary and secondary fuel filters 
changed at the same time).


Chuck, I did that myself (didn't repair the bottom of the tank) but 
everything elseemptied the fuel tank of 15 gallons of diesel 
(donated it to the club's tractor), took the tank to a machine shop 
where they repaired the two pin holes, put it back in, new fuel and new 
fuel filters.


The mechanic did notice some diesel leaking from a line fitting going 
into the small Yanmar fuel filter said a quarter inch tightening 
might solve the problem as this might be an air leak.


When I said earlier the engine has not been serviced in 16 years, I 
meant it had not had a diesel mechanic service it.I do an oil change 
every Fall, fuel filters changed regularly, have replaced all the engine 
hoses, air filter, water and alternator belts, water pump impellers, 
etc.  This work i do myself but when it comes to more complicated 
things, \i will leave that to the mechanics who know what they are doing 
(or should)


If it something like dirty or failed fuel injectors, a failed fuel pump, 
etc, etc, best the mechanic diagnose the problem and fix it.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.



On Sun, Jun 26, 2022 at 10:03 AM Novabraid via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Rob,

Recommending two things:

1. Change both filters and perform this task annually (or more
often if your source of diesel is questionable.)

2. Find out if your mechanic is willing to have you “help” perform
the filter change as it will likely be the first thing he’ll want
to do.  You really need to learn how to make filter changes and to
learn how to bleed the fuel system once a filter has been changed.

Changing the fuel filters will reveal a lot since you’ll be able
to see what’s contaminating the fuel system or causing a blockage.
Its conceivable that your primary (or lift) fuel pump that brings
fuel to the engine from the fuel tank may have a worn or leaky
diaphragm. Look for traces of diesel around the edges of the pump
housing.   An easy fix but harder to diagnose if you can get the
engine to run a full speed after you change the filters.

 Not sure what marine education options are available in Halifax
but its always good to think about taking a marine diesel course
for peace of mind.  I did it about 5 years ago at Annapolis School
of Seamanship and it’s given me confidence to do some basic
problem solving and service myself.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

*From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Sunday, June 26, 2022 9:38 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Robert Abbott 
*Subject:* Stus-List Yanmar 2 GMF


Went to take the boat out Friday for a short sail .motoring
out heading into a12 knt breezestarted to increase the RPM's
and found the engine wouldn't rev about 2,100 RPM's marine
diesel's are not supposed to be that complicated but they are to
me.  I wouldn't know where to start to trouble shootgetting a
mechanic to deal with it this week.  I spoke to him and told him
the situation and he thinks it is a fuel problemengine not
getting enough fuelmy fuel tank and fuel should be clean as I
had the bottom of it replaced 2 years ago and the 2 fuel filters
replaced. He thinks one or both of the filters are restricting the
fuel flow.I hope he is right but I don't think so.

Possibly many are causesrestricted fuel injectors, fuel pump,
etc.  the engine has never been serviced in the 16 years I
have had the boat

Any insight or guidance to help greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

--
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca <http://www.jdroofing.ca>*

Stus-List Yanmar 2 GMF

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Bottom and prop is cleanboat is launched every Spring after Winter 
layup.


Checked the throttle cable and that seems to be finemost likely a 
fuel issue


On 2022-06-26 11:44 a.m., Josh wrote:

Is the bottom and prop clean?

Jun 26, 2022 09:39:09 Robert Abbott via CnC-List :


Went to take the boat out Friday for a short sail .motoring
out heading into a12 knt breezestarted to increase the RPM's
and found the engine wouldn't rev about 2,100 RPM's marine
diesel's are not supposed to be that complicated but they are to
me.  I wouldn't know where to start to trouble shootgetting a
mechanic to deal with it this week.  I spoke to him and told him
the situation and he thinks it is a fuel problemengine not
getting enough fuelmy fuel tank and fuel should be clean as I
had the bottom of it replaced 2 years ago and the 2 fuel filters
replaced. He thinks one or both of the filters are restricting the
fuel flow.I hope he is right but I don't think so.

Possibly many are causesrestricted fuel injectors, fuel pump,
etc.  the engine has never been serviced in the 16 years I
have had the boat

Any insight or guidance to help greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

Stus-List Yanmar 2 GMF

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Went to take the boat out Friday for a short sail .motoring out 
heading into a12 knt breezestarted to increase the RPM's and found 
the engine wouldn't rev about 2,100 RPM's marine diesel's are not 
supposed to be that complicated but they are to me.  I wouldn't know 
where to start to trouble shootgetting a mechanic to deal with it 
this week.  I spoke to him and told him the situation and he thinks it 
is a fuel problemengine not getting enough fuelmy fuel tank and 
fuel should be clean as I had the bottom of it replaced 2 years ago and 
the 2 fuel filters replaced. He thinks one or both of the filters are 
restricting the fuel flow.I hope he is right but I don't think so.


Possibly many are causesrestricted fuel injectors, fuel pump, etc.  
the engine has never been serviced in the 16 years I have had the boat


Any insight or guidance to help greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

Stus-List Cost to replace UV cover

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Joe,

This past January, I had my UV cover replaced on my 135% by the Doyle 
sailmaker hereall in cost plus tax was $550 CDN$1,350 seems like 
way too much.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-06-20 8:07 p.m., Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


The UV cover on my genoa is starting to fail, so I took it to Bacons 
to get repaired. I figured 5 or 6 boat bucks maybe. Well I figured 
wrong, the estimate came back at $1350! Yikes!


Are they nuts or is this the going rate now? That seems like a pretty 
good chunk of an entire sail!


Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

Stus-List C&C33-2 New Genoa

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Andy

We raced a 33-2 extensivelythe majority of the time the 150% was the 
go to sail.   while we had a 135% it was rarely used...if the 150% was 
too much sail, the 100% worked just fine.   we also had a Pentax main 
sail with a big roach on the leech.


The 33-2 sails quite well with a 150% in lighter air if you are racing.

If you are not racing, the 140% would be great too.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.





On 2022-03-01 8:48 p.m., andrew--- via CnC-List wrote:


Good day sailors!

I am getting a new X-Drive Endure Genoa for my 33-2. Sailmaker thought 
140 would be best but given the predominantly light air we sail in, I 
was thinking a larger sail.


I was wondering if anybody had experience with larger genoa’s for the 
33-2. Any thoughts?


Thanks!

Andy




Customized C&C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Customized C&C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Email problem

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

A day after I thought my email issue to the C&C list was resolved, it 
returned.  I some cases I wasn't able to Send, then I couldn't Send or 
Receive.   Someone mentioned that the problem was on my end but yet I 
could both Send and Receive to other email addresses (not the C&C List) 
just fine which leads me to believe it has to do with the list's 
server.  I am no tech authority, just stating what is happening.


Here's hoping this one goes through?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-02-23 11:15 p.m., John Read wrote:

Some postings come through just fine, others as an attachment which is a
PITA.  The interesting part is some of Robert Abbots came through both ways
and some attachments as multiple postings with the same information

John Read
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT


cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

Stus-List Cutting Board

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Charlie

Beeswax can sometimes be found at some big box stores, hardware 
stores, where candles are sold, where good quality cutting boards are 
sold (the store pushes a can of the beeswax for maintenance and extra 
$$$ and of course an apiary (200 lbs of honey needed to make 1 lb of 
beeswax)


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-02-20 5:54 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:


I like the beeswax idea--natural, etc. but aside from the web, where 
does one find beeswax?


Charlie Nelson


cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

Stus-List Cutting Board

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Charlie

Beeswax can sometimes be found at some big box stores, hardware stores, 
where candles are sold, where good quality cutting boards are sold (the 
store pushes a can of the beeswax for maintenance and extra $$$ and of 
course an apiary (200 lbs of honey needed to make 1 lb of beeswax)


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-02-20 5:54 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:


I like the beeswax idea--natural, etc. but aside from the web, where 
does one find beeswax?


Charlie Nelson
cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

Stus-List Cutting Board Sale

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Charlie,

Apply beeswax, both sides and edges, several times yearly.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-02-19 8:27 p.m., cenelson--- via CnC-List wrote:


If actually used as a cutting board, is there a recommended 
stain/varnish/etc. to apply to the board to enhance its longevity?


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom


cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

Stus-List Hatch Gaskets

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I got replacement hatch gaskets from Hammerhead Nautical Systems in 
Ontario, Canada.  The owner used to work for A&H...when I told him what 
I wanted, he corrected me on the size (diameter) and even included a 
tube of adhesive at no cost.  Great service.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.
cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

Stus-List Forward hatch gasket needed

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I got replacement gaskets from Hammerhead Nautical Systems...the owner 
used to work for A&Hhe even sent me a tube a adhesive to install 
them at no cost.


About | Hammerhead Nautical Systems (hhns.ca) 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-02-13 9:35 p.m., RON CASCIATO via CnC-List wrote:


Andrew, give Hatchmasters in Norwalk,  CT. a call.
It's been a few years but they have the parts and rebuilt my A&H hatch 
nicely.

Ron C.
Impromptu
38MKII, '77

cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

Stus-List Email problem

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

My email issue to the list has been short but baffling...if this goes 
through, it should be resolved...for now...but who knows exactly what is 
happening out there in cyber land and who is doing whatever is happening 
out there.


Rob Abbott
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-02-15 4:23 p.m., Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

Interestingly the email below from Joel came to my Outlook email (exchange 
server) as an attachment and to my Gmail account as a message without the issue.

I am sending this as Text rather than html so should not have the issue.

Wonder why Outlook treats html that way from only this email list?

Mike Hoyt
Halifax NS



Impress your crew and dock mates with a personalized C&C galley cutting board:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Forward hatch gasket needed

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I got replacement gaskets for all my hatches from Hammerhead Nautical 
Systems...the owner used to work for A&Hhe even sent me a tube a 
adhesive to install them at no cost.


About | Hammerhead Nautical Systems (hhns.ca) 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.
On 2022-02-12 10:01 p.m., andrew macLean via CnC-List wrote:

Atkins and Hoyle were really marvellous helping me find parts for the nearly 50 
year old hatch on our 1974 30mk1. I’d start by calling them.

Andrew MacLean
C&C 30-1
Gulf Islands BC Canada


On Feb 12, 2022, at 10:51, Bob Mann via CnC-List  wrote:


The foam gasket on my C&C35 mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone 
suggest where I can find a replacement?  Nothing I've seen at hardware stores even 
comes close to what is already there.

regards,
Bob Mann
Mystic
Detroit
Impress your crew and dock mates with a personalized C&C galley cutting board:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List email test

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Appears problem has resolved itself.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-02-15 4:15 p.m., Robert Abbott via CnC-List wrote:


I can send an email from this address back to me but not to the C&C 
with contentsubject line yesif it is my issue I am baffled as 
to the reason.  Any suggestions appreciated.of course, if this 
gets through, no need, problem resolved.


On 2022-02-15 10:46 a.m., Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

I still believe this is a email client issue, not the account issue.

Marek

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2022 9:53 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Re: email test

Impress your crew and dock mates with a personalized C&C galley 
cutting board:

cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Impress your crew and dock mates with a personalized C&C galley cutting board:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: email test

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I can send an email from this address back to me but not to the C&C with 
contentsubject line yesif it is my issue I am baffled as to the 
reason.  Any suggestions appreciated.of course, if this gets 
through, no need, problem resolved.


On 2022-02-15 10:46 a.m., Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

I still believe this is a email client issue, not the account issue.

Marek

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2022 9:53 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Stus-List Re: email test


Impress your crew and dock mates with a personalized C&C galley cutting board:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Hatch Gaskets - Try Hammerhead Nautical Systems in Canada

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Stus-List Can't send emails to list with content???

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Custom designed C&C Logoed Cutting Boards are shipping daily. Order yours at:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List hatch gaskets

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I got replacement gaskets for all my hatches from Hammerhead Nautical 
Systems...the owner used to work for A&Hhe even sent me a tube a 
adhesive to install them at no cost.


About | Hammerhead Nautical Systems (hhns.ca) 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.Custom designed C&C Logoed Cutting Boards are shipping daily. Order yours at:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Email Test

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Custom designed C&C Logoed Cutting Boards are shipping daily. Order yours at:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Forward hatch gasket needed

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I got replacement gaskets for all my hatches from Hammerhead Nautical 
Systems...the owner used to work for A&Hhe even sent me a tube a 
adhesive to install them at no cost.


About | Hammerhead Nautical Systems (hhns.ca) 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.
Custom designed C&C Logoed Cutting Boards are shipping daily. Order yours at:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Hatch Gaskets

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I got replacement gaskets for all my hatches from Hammerhead Nautical 
Systems...the owner used to work for A&Hhe even sent me a tube a 
adhesive to install them at no cost.


About | Hammerhead Nautical Systems (hhns.ca) 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

Stus-List Forward hatch gasket needed

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I got replacement gaskets for all my hatches from Hammerhead Nautical 
Systems...the owner used to work for A&Hhe even sent me a tube a 
adhesive to install them at no cost.


About | Hammerhead Nautical Systems (hhns.ca) 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2022-02-12 10:01 p.m., andrew macLean via CnC-List wrote:

Atkins and Hoyle were really marvellous helping me find parts for the nearly 50 
year old hatch on our 1974 30mk1. I’d start by calling them.

Andrew MacLean
C&C 30-1
Gulf Islands BC Canada


On Feb 12, 2022, at 10:51, Bob Mann via CnC-List  wrote:


The foam gasket on my C&C35 mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone 
suggest where I can find a replacement?  Nothing I've seen at hardware stores even 
comes close to what is already there.

regards,
Bob Mann
Mystic
Detroit

Stus-List Re: Forward hatch gasket needed

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Test

On 2022-02-12 10:01 p.m., andrew macLean via CnC-List wrote:

Atkins and Hoyle were really marvellous helping me find parts for the nearly 50 
year old hatch on our 1974 30mk1. I’d start by calling them.

Andrew MacLean
C&C 30-1
Gulf Islands BC Canada


On Feb 12, 2022, at 10:51, Bob Mann via CnC-List  wrote:


The foam gasket on my C&C35 mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone 
suggest where I can find a replacement?  Nothing I've seen at hardware stores even 
comes close to what is already there.

regards,
Bob Mann
Mystic
Detroit

Stus-List Forward hatch gasket needed

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I got replacement gaskets for all my hatches from Hammerhead Nautical 
Systems...the owner used to work for A&Hhe even sent me a tube a 
adhesive to install them at no cost.


About | Hammerhead Nautical Systems (hhns.ca) 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

Stus-List Forward hatch gasket needed

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I got replacement gaskets for all my hatches from Hammerhead Nautical 
Systems...the owner used to work for A&Hhe even sent me a tube a 
adhesive to install them at no cost.


About | Hammerhead Nautical Systems (hhns.ca) 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2022-02-13 11:03 a.m., Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:


I purchased a roll of 3/8 in diameter foam from McMaster-Carr for that 
purpose. So, I used a few feet out of 100 ft roll, but it was way 
cheaper than any other option. Of course you have to find a proper 
adhesive. And I cannot remember what I used.


Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie PA

Stus-List Forward hatch gasket needed

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I got replacement gaskets for all my hatches from Hammerhead Nautical 
Systems...the owner used to work for A&Hhe even sent me a tube a 
adhesive to install them at no cost.


About | Hammerhead Nautical Systems (hhns.ca) 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-02-12 10:01 p.m., andrew macLean via CnC-List wrote:

Atkins and Hoyle were really marvellous helping me find parts for the nearly 50 
year old hatch on our 1974 30mk1. I’d start by calling them.

Andrew MacLean
C&C 30-1
Gulf Islands BC Canada


On Feb 12, 2022, at 10:51, Bob Mann via CnC-List  wrote:


The foam gasket on my C&C35 mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone 
suggest where I can find a replacement?  Nothing I've seen at hardware stores even 
comes close to what is already there.

regards,
Bob Mann
Mystic
Detroit

Stus-List : Forward hatch gasket needed

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Bob

I got replacement gaskets for all my hatches from Hammerhead Nautical 
Systems...the owner used to work for A&Hhe even sent me a tube a 
adhesive to install them at no cost.


About | Hammerhead Nautical Systems (hhns.ca) 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2022-02-12 2:51 p.m., Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:

The foam gasket on my C&C35 mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone 
suggest where I can find a replacement?  Nothing I've seen at hardware stores even 
comes close to what is already there.

regards,
Bob Mann
Mystic
Detroit

Stus-List Forward hatch gasket needed

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Bob

I got replacement gaskets for all my hatches from Hammerhead Nautical 
Systems...the owner used to work for A&Hhe even sent me a tube a 
adhesive to install them at no cost.


About | Hammerhead Nautical Systems (hhns.ca) 

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2022-02-12 2:51 p.m., Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote:

The foam gasket on my C&C35 mk I's forward hatch is coming apart. Can anyone 
suggest where I can find a replacement?  Nothing I've seen at hardware stores even 
comes close to what is already there.

regards,
Bob Mann
Mystic
Detroit

Stus-List Email headaches

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I also use Thunderbird for emailsno issues.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-02-03 4:19 p.m., Donald Kern via CnC-List wrote:


Stu

I use Thunderbird as the email client, no problems

Don


On 2/3/2022 1:25 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:


From what I am reading, these problems are not across the board. 
Individual

email clients, servers, etc. appear to be the culprits.

The archives for the list, are not showing any 'ghosts'.  Every 
message has

full content and appears as regular text -- no funny html characters.

I am sure with all the help I am getting that we will conquer.

Stu
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Canadian Luxury Tax

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Andrew,

As you are aware, Ken Heaton has provided all the specifics on this I 
need to know.


And as a side note, I could understand spending time cruising the Bras 
d'ors..., you would find cursing the coast of Newfoundland much of the time.


Robert Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S

On 2022-01-15 6:24 p.m., Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
I see the law is 12 months, then pay duty. I spoke to Henry about this 
and got his take on the situation, but also spoke to people in the 
Halifax area who made essentially the same points. And even still, the 
law precludes what I want to do; that is, head to NS early summer and 
cruise to the area for the summer, then lay up over the winter and 
cruise farther the following summer, a total of 15 months or so. A 
broker in Halifax told me that I could probably get away with it, but 
“probably” not losing my boat to the Mounties isn’t good enough.

Andy

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI
USA    02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Canadian Luxury Tax

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Ken,

Thank you all of this...everything one could want on the subject matter.

Robert Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-01-15 4:59 p.m., Ken Heaton wrote:
Further to this, it appears some of Henry's American clients had kept 
their boats in Canada continuously for up to 18 years without ever 
actually officially importing them, so never paid import duties: 
https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/nova-scotia/tariff-for-non-canadian-boat-owners-threatens-yard-1.1322571 



In the long run, the rules were not changed, and this didn't seem to 
have any lasting effect on Henry's business. The Cape Breton Boat Yard 
in Baddeck, Nova Scotia is still in business.


Ken H..



On Sat, 15 Jan 2022 at 16:53, Ken Heaton  wrote:

The "short amount of time" Andrew refers to is one full year (12
months).  The ``newish" law Andrew referred to has been on the
books for at least 20 years ( I think since the fall of 1998) but
has been spottily enforced. In theory, US boats are not supposed
to overwinter (stay longer than 12 months) in Canada without being
legally imported and paying duty. But there’s an exception. If a
boat needs repairs, it may stay—and the repairs, maintenance and
storage of such yachts has been the core business of Henry Fuller
of the Cape Breton Boat Yard in Baddeck, Nova Scotia. And though
the necessary “repairs” may not have been very extensive, customs
officers have never been very exacting about the matter.

For many years quite a number of American boats spent years on end
in Canada without being officially imported, using this loophole
that allowed the boats to remain here if "major overhaul" and
other large shipyard related jobs were being done to them.  The
intention of this rule was to allow shipyards to bid on large
projects without having to worry about import duties if the job
stretched out beyond 12 months. Legitimate large repairs can be
extended beyond 12 months, up to as long as four years (48 months)
if required, and permission for the extension(s) is granted.

This loophole was being abused as many of these boats were really
just having light seasonal maintenance done. Henry Fuller made a
public issue of it back in the fall of 2013 and so drew the
attention of the government agency tasked with enforcing the law,
forcing their hand so enforcement increased as a result.

Some coverage of Henry's complaints are here:
https://www.oceannavigator.com/bad-news-from-baddeck/

Here is another view:

https://contrarian.ca/2013/09/06/how-the-feds-are-killing-a-77-year-old-cape-breton-business/

Here is a link to the actual rules and information for travellers
(note the wording on that page has not needed to been changed
since 2014):
https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/travel-voyage/fv-be/menu-eng.html

Information about the length of time permitted for repairs are
here:
https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/travel-voyage/fv-be/importation-eng.html

The actual letter of the law here:
https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications/dm-md/d2/d2-1-1-eng.html
https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications/dm-md/d2/d2-2-3-eng.html
https://www.cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/publications/dm-md/d8/d8-1-1-eng.html

Ken H.

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Stus-List Re: Canadian Luxury Tax

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Andrew,

I am interested to know more about this CDN Luxury Tax on US boats here 
in Canada for a period of time.  I can't find anything on the CDN Govt 
websites on the law.


Do you have a source/ website, anything I can use to get started on 
finding out the specifics?


Anything would help.  Thanking you in advnace.

Robert Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-01-12 5:16 p.m., Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
There’s also a newish Canadian law that taxes US boats if they are in 
Canada for more than a short amount of time. It has put several yards 
out of business, including a friend in NS who used to work on and 
store a bunch of US boats very winter.
It put the kibosh on my plans to cruise to Bras D’or one summer, leave 
the bot and then cruise Newfoundland the next summer.

Andy



Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI
USA    02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

On Jan 12, 2022, at 14:47, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:



When the US imposed the luxury tax in the 90's or whenever, it put 
17,000 boat builders in the unemployment line.  Luxury car 
salespersons also suffered. Legislators and bureaucrats are woefully 
ignorant of the law of unintended consequences.


Did it result in increased tax collections?  Not really.  As it only 
applied to new yachts bought in the US, rich folks simply bought 
yachts in Europe and brought them home, as I recall.


Other anecdotal laws we seem to forget: the U shaped curve (governs 
efficiencies of volume), the 95% rule (it's easy to pick up the first 
95% of that pound of sugar you spilled).  And there's always the law 
above them all, Murphy's Law.


--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jan 12, 2022 at 1:33 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:


OK, I know I should just get back to work, but this is a very
thought provoking Bill about to take place,

and it is like watching a slow motion train wreck.

The American Version of the 90’s may not have been what
completely killed C&C, but it certainly guaranteed it.

What do they say, “Those who do not remember the mistakes of the
past are condemned to repeat them in the future” ?!

It’s been about a generation, long enough to forget, I guess. And
Canada has a lot to lose.


https://marinefabricatormag.com/2021/12/20/analysis-shows-canadas-proposed-luxury-tax-will-have-heavy-impact-on-marine-industry/

https://www.chicagotribune.com/news/ct-xpm-1991-06-13-9102220626-story.html

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

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list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
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Stus-List Bilge Water

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

John,
I don't use the -35C windshield washer fluid in the potable waterlines, 
fresh water tankonly in the bilge lines and the head shower 
overboard line.  In the potable water lines I use plumber's antifreeze.


In the engine, I use full strength diesel antifreeze 50% - 50% with water.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax,N.S.

On 2022-01-07 11:50 a.m., John Read wrote:


A quick internet search indicates caution using windshield washer 
fluid in potable water lines.  Most fluids use methanol also known as 
methyl / wood alcohol  to prevent the freezing.  Methanol is highly 
poisonous and can cause blindness.  It may be ingested through air, 
skin or mouth. May also be corrosive


The water system antifreeze are usually based on propylene glycol 
which is considered generally safe unless ingested in large 
quantities. Propylene glycol rarely causes toxic effects, and then 
only under very unusual circumstances. Propylene glycol is a 
*Generally Recognized as Safe* (GRAS) food additive that is widely 
used in cosmetics. In certain medicines, cosmetics, and food products, 
propylene glycol acts as solvent.


In both cases, thorough rinsing of the potable system is recommended

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT


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Stus-List Bilge Water

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

My mast is usually out during the winter...left it in this year for 
reasons...I use a cheap -35C windshield washer in the bilge to prevent 
any water from freezing before I get to the boat to pump it out. Mast in 
or mast out, I don't use either the manual or electric pump(s) in the 
winterboth lines and pumps are primed with the same -35C rated 
windshield washer to prevent any chance of freezing causing trouble.  
Has worked well for the past 16 winters.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax,N.S.

On 2022-01-07 1:33 a.m., Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
Water leaks in on a warmer day and then freezes before I can get to it 
and pump it out. No auto pump.  Cheap anti-freeze works well 'til I 
visit the boat again.

Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL


On Thursday, January 6, 2022, 11:11:53 PM CST, andrew macLean 
 wrote:



Ron, Why are you putting anti-freeze in the bilge?

Andrew
C&C 30-1
Gulf Islands, BC


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Stus-List Burnished bottom paint

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

David
I read long ago an article by some America's Cup sailors about this very 
topic about which bottom was fasterthe article said the sailors 
found that a bottom the consistency of something like 'an orange peel' 
was the fastestthey said a smooth bottom contributes to too much 
friction between it and the water flowing over it.  Whereas the orange 
peel bottom causes a turbulence which lowered the friction between the 
bottom and the flow of the water actually made it faster.


I have no first hand knowledge of thisjust what I read.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-11-30 1:45 p.m., David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I have been considering what kind of bottom paint to use in the future 
and it seems that most racers have a very hard/smooth/burnished bottom 
on their boats.  So, I was wondering if there is data to support that 
this is important.  One reason for asking is that in addition to being 
a sailor, I am also a cyclist.  A few years ago, the hypothesis that 
was accepted by all cyclists, including pro teams, was that thin, high 
pressure tires were the fastest.   Then someone actually did the 
experimental science, and found that wider, lower pressure tires were 
actually as fast or faster.  Counterintuitive, but data trumps 
intuition, and that is why we should test obvious and intuitive 
assumptions.  So my question is, has anyone seen actual experimental 
data on comparing different smoothnesses and type of bottom paint vs. 
boat speed under controlled conditions?   Thanks- Dave


S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List C&C to race

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Chuck,

Having raced a 34R, I agree with good sails but you would also need a 
very competent, aggressive crew.  The boat needs all the power it can 
deliver to sail to its numbers and only an aggressive crew will be able 
to deliver that.  The 34R is not the boat for the timid skipper and crew.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-11-29 5:42 p.m., Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:

Dennis,
So many variables.  Location, prevailing conditions, local coastal or offshore 
events.
I would probably lean towards a 34R with new sails including an Assym and 
Symmetrical Chute, a baby smooth bottom job, and really good beer so I could 
attract the best possible crew.  And let someone really good drive because I am 
terrible driving upwind.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone


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Stus-List Haul Out Question

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

When we step and unstep the mast, the roller furler remains attached to 
the headstayone person is assigned to hold the headstay/furler and 
maneuver it as needed to remain clear until it can be attached on 
stepping or handed ashore when unstepping.  When stepping and  
unstepping, we use sail ties to hold the shrouds, baby stay and backstay 
to the base of the mast.keeps things neat and easy to handle.


For the first time in 16 years with this boat, I didn't unstep the mast 
this Fall (for reasons), but the furler always stayed attached when it 
was done.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.
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Stus-List C&C 33-II vs 35-II vs 35-III

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Alan,

The 35-II and the 35-III, while both are 35's, they are somewhat 
different boats...and here in Nova Scotia...the PHRF for the 35-II is 
126 and the 35-III is 123...some other places have the 35-III PHRF at 
120not a lot but a difference.  And the 33-II here is rated 132, 
which on many race days depending on circumstances (crew, sails, wind 
shifts, tactics, luck), any one of these 3 C&C designs can win the race.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2021-11-13 7:18 p.m., ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
I don't know how the Mk II compares with the Mk III, but when I raced 
with a #3 (105%) genoa, I pointed five degrees higher than most boats 
in our PHRF fleet. Any small loss in speed was more than made up for 
by the better pointing angle. I was frequently first to the weather mark.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sat, Nov 13, 2021 at 2:39 PM Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Dwight:
While what you say is valid, the point earlier being was that the
33-II will out point the 35-IIand the 33-II which sails in St
Margaret's Bay where you sail will out point your35-II (even
sailed single handed).wouldn't you agree?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.










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Stus-List C&C 33-II vs 35-II

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Dwight:
While what you say is valid, the point earlier being was that the 33-II 
will out point the 35-IIand the 33-II which sails in St Margaret's 
Bay where you sail will out point your35-II (even sailed single 
handed).wouldn't you agree?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-11-13 6:14 p.m., dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
Now check the predicted motion comfort factors for these boats. If you 
do any cruising along the coast of NS the 35 MKII is very slippery and 
very pleasant to be driving and nice accommodations too.


On Sat, Nov 13, 2021 at 4:39 PM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
 wrote:


On a rea h a longer waterline boat usually has faster hull speed
so would pass. If all boats were same design they would have same
hull speed and woukd not pass on a long reach. On short courses 
with short legs even wl length makes little difference.

I know the races rob talks about . They usually have legs over a
mile long so the bigger 35 would certainly be faster downwind and
I don't disagree that the slightly more modern 33-2 faster upwind

Just my thoughts

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
----
*From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
*Sent:* November 13, 2021 10:48:15 AM
*To:* Stus-List
*Cc:* Robert Abbott
*Subject:* Stus-List C&C 33-II vs 35-II
Matthew,

Actually it was not at all impossible...it happened consistently
over 5 raceson the beat, the 33-II would reach the first
windward mark before the 35-IIthe 33 always pointed
higher...not much changed on the reach but the 35 gained a few
boat lengths...then on the run, 35-II would take back all the
33-II gained on the beat and then some.  The 35 crossed the finish
just ahead of the 33

In my opinion, both boats were well crewed/sailed.

What am I saying that is impossible?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2021-09-10 10:33 a.m., Matthew via CnC-List wrote:


That’s interesting.  I keep having issues with my local RC
because they set only windward/leeward courses, no triangles and
no reaches.  The reported rationale is that “no one ever passes
anybody on a reach.”  What you’re saying is impossible.

    *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Sent:* Friday, September 10, 2021 9:23 AM
*To:* Stus-List 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc:* Robert Abbott 
<mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
*Subject:* Stus-List C&C 33-II vs 35-II

Some years back when were campaigning a 33-II, we were racing her
in the Bras d'Or Lakes.there was 35-II from Shediac, NB with
a good crew.  The course was a beat, reach and runevery race
was the same, the 33-ii would get to the first windward mark
ahead the 35-II, but once on the reach and run, loose it all
back.   There was nothing we could do to change it after 5 races.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to
help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu

--
Sent from Gmail Mobile

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List C&C 33-II vs 35-II

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Matthew,

Actually it was not at all impossible...it happened consistently over 5 
raceson the beat, the 33-II would reach the first windward mark 
before the 35-IIthe 33 always pointed higher...not much changed on 
the reach but the 35 gained a few boat lengths...then on the run, 35-II 
would take back all the 33-II gained on the beat and then some.  The 35 
crossed the finish just ahead of the 33


In my opinion, both boats were well crewed/sailed.

What am I saying that is impossible?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2021-09-10 10:33 a.m., Matthew via CnC-List wrote:


That’s interesting.  I keep having issues with my local RC because 
they set only windward/leeward courses, no triangles and no reaches.  
The reported rationale is that “no one ever passes anybody on a 
reach.”  What you’re saying is impossible.


*From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Friday, September 10, 2021 9:23 AM
*To:* Stus-List 
*Cc:* Robert Abbott 
*Subject:* Stus-List C&C 33-II vs 35-II

Some years back when were campaigning a 33-II, we were racing her in 
the Bras d'Or Lakes.there was 35-II from Shediac, NB with a good 
crew.  The course was a beat, reach and runevery race was the 
same, the 33-ii would get to the first windward mark ahead the 35-II, 
but once on the reach and run, loose it all back.   There was nothing 
we could do to change it after 5 races.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List CHAINPLATE/KNEE REPAIR 1981 C&C 36-1 KCB

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I don't know if chainplate deterioration is unique to the C&C 36 but I 
know of two 36's at our club that had the chainplate pullup through 
the deck under sailFYI.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.


*From:* Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Wednesday, October 27, 2021 11:24 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Jeffrey A. Laman 
*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: CHAINPLATE/KNEE REPAIR 1981 C&C 
36-1 KCB


I don't know that this chainplate knee deterioration is unique to the 
C&C36 and hope that all owners take a thorough and careful look at 
their boat.


Jeff Laman

1981 C&C34 "Harmony"

Ludington, MI


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Stus-List Bottom Paints Again

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Dwight,
You can get spray zinc primer at CDN TireI have one, used it 
onceit seemed to work but since I use my boat often, I don't use it 
on the prop shaft and propdon't see the need.


Rob
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-10-26 7:06 a.m., dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:

Where do you get “zinc paint”?

On Mon, Oct 25, 2021 at 11:40 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Here in Vancouver, my boat guru suggested zinc paint for the prop
and shaft. I wasn’t too sure but now I’ve seen several yards using
it. My prop and shaft come out of the water (yearly) without hard
growth on them. I’m sold.

Al Liles
SV Elendil, C&C 37/40+
Vancouver BC



On Oct 25, 2021, at 2:37 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List
 wrote:



Second Petit Prop Paint.  One must be careful with copper based
paint on stainless and bronze running gear;

John and Maryann (dec’d 7/18/2021)

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

*From:*Neil Andersen via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
*Sent:* Monday, October 25, 2021 3:52 PM
*To:* Stus-List
*Cc:* Neil Andersen
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

I use Petit prop paint with good results

Neil Andersen

1982 Ca& C 32, FoxFire

Rock Hall, MD 21661



*From:*Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Monday, October 25, 2021 3:36 PM
*To:* Stus-List
*Cc:* Dean McNeill
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: Bottom Paints Again

First full season for me with my C&C 34 and I used Interlux
Micron CSC, as that’s what the previous owner ’thought’ was on it
when I bought it. A good friend has also used it on his Tartan
3700 for years with good results.

I used 2 to 3 coats after a light sanding of the previous coat(s)
and it has worked very well. Five months moored in the Northwest
Arm in Halifax NS and it was surprisingly super clean when it
came out at end of season… a little green scum in places but
that’s it! Stainless prop shaft was caked with barnacles and
growth, so I’m guessing bottom paint worked great where it was
applied!

Does anyone  coat their stainless prop shaft (or brass folding
prop) with bottom paint?

Dean

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to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
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the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
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--
Sent from Gmail Mobile

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Stus-List Re: Electric Bilge Pump

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Dean

The Manual operation always worked so it was wired correctly I will 
attempt to check the Manual connection.


Rob

On 2021-10-17 11:09 a.m., Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote:
Auto bilge pumps usually have 3 wires. A ground and then one positive 
to use if you want it to be auto or one positive to connect if you 
want it to be manual. You pick what function you want and wire it that 
way. My guess is you wired it for auto by mistake? I’ve done that!


_


  From Dean’s mobile

902 489 8556


On Oct 17, 2021, at 10:52 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
 wrote:


My electric bilge pump has 3 settings, Auto (with a float to 
activate), Off, and Manual.  I turned on the Manual setting and the 
pump didn't come on.   It does work in the Auto settingif I fill 
the bilge to lift the float or raise it by hand, the pump works.


Since and I am no electrician, any ideas where to look for the problem?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.
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with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Electric Bilge Pump

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

My electric bilge pump has 3 settings, Auto (with a float to activate), 
Off, and Manual.  I turned on the Manual setting and the pump didn't 
come on.   It does work in the Auto settingif I fill the bilge to 
lift the float or raise it by hand, the pump works.


Since and I am no electrician, any ideas where to look for the problem?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Try Twitter, Instagram, Facebook...you are on the wrong site.




On 2021-09-14 9:43 p.m., Korbey Hunt wrote:

Shucks, I thought this post was about bi polar disorder.

Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>

*From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Tuesday, September 14, 2021 4:09:08 PM
*To:* Stus-List 
*Cc:* Della Barba, Joe ; Robert Abbott 


*Subject:* Stus-List anyone gone lithium?
Joe:
My sailing season lasts approx. 5 1/2 months, May to say mid 
Octoberbatteries are used approx. +100 days per season to run 
everything on the boat that requires DC...first 8 years, boat was on a 
mooring with no shore power...last 5 seasons with the boat at a slip, 
plugged into shore power with engine room battery charger.


I alternate the use of the two batteries each use.  Usually take each 
battery down to no lower than 40% - 50% before recharging with the 
alternator when on the mooring and now the alternator and charger at 
the slip with AC.    Batteries have never been off the boat since 
installed in April 2009.


That's the long and unspecific answerI actually haven't ever 
measured the daily/weekly amps out but I have killed both batteries 
(on separate occasions) and recharged them.


But it's time for new ones and I know it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S

On 2021-09-14 5:59 p.m., Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


That is pretty astounding battery life, I am not sure I can get a 
battery to last that long in a car.


What is your typical cycling load like for a typical week out?

Joe

Coquina

*From:* Robert Abbott  
<mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>

*Sent:* Tuesday, September 14, 2021 4:14 PM
*To:* Stus-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc:* Della Barba, Joe  
<mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>; Randal Stafford 
 <mailto:randal.staff...@icloud.com>

*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

My Great Northern Batteries, group 27's are 13 years old...used then 
again this season...gotta replace soon but they still hold a good 
charge..12.6V to 12.7V


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S

O





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List anyone gone lithium?

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Joe:
My sailing season lasts approx. 5 1/2 months, May to say mid 
Octoberbatteries are used approx. +100 days per season to run 
everything on the boat that requires DC...first 8 years, boat was on a 
mooring with no shore power...last 5 seasons with the boat at a slip, 
plugged into shore power with engine room battery charger.


I alternate the use of the two batteries each use.  Usually take each 
battery down to no lower than 40% - 50% before recharging with the 
alternator when on the mooring and now the alternator and charger at the 
slip with AC.    Batteries have never been off the boat since installed 
in April 2009.


That's the long and unspecific answerI actually haven't ever 
measured the daily/weekly amps out but I have killed both batteries (on 
separate occasions) and recharged them.


But it's time for new ones and I know it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S

On 2021-09-14 5:59 p.m., Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


That is pretty astounding battery life, I am not sure I can get a 
battery to last that long in a car.


What is your typical cycling load like for a typical week out?

Joe

Coquina

*From:* Robert Abbott 
*Sent:* Tuesday, September 14, 2021 4:14 PM
*To:* Stus-List 
*Cc:* Della Barba, Joe ; Randal Stafford 


*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

My Great Northern Batteries, group 27's are 13 years old...used then 
again this season...gotta replace soon but they still hold a good 
charge..12.6V to 12.7V


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S

O



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

My Great Northern Batteries, group 27's are 13 years old...used then 
again this season...gotta replace soon but they still hold a good 
charge..12.6V to 12.7V


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S

On 2021-09-14 12:52 p.m., Randal Stafford via CnC-List wrote:

What’s the upside?

I got seven years out of a pair of group 29s Everstarts from Walmart, 
just replaced for $90 each.  And I just replaced the alternator on my 
A4, which lasted 49 years.


But the way I use my boat doesn’t require having a state-of-the-art 
battery system.


Cheers,
Randy

On Sep 14, 2021, at 7:27 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


My batteries are about shot and I am thinking of going to lithium 
batteries. I have to say I thought I knew this stuff and it seems 
massively confusing with a ton of directly contradictory information. 
One big issue seems that if the BMS disconnects for any reason, that 
will do a lot of damage to your alternator and perhaps other 
equipment too. Add to that my regulator does not have a specific 
lithium setting, I would need to get into the custom menus and try 
and make one.
What seems to be the best bet is just to connect the alternator to 
the start battery and use a DC-DC charger to charge the lithium bank. 
Some of them also take solar input, so that saves me buying a solar 
controller with lithium settings, which is something else I don’t 
currently have.

Joe
Coquina
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
 Thanks - Stu



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C&C 33-II vs 35-II

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Matthew said " What you’re saying is impossible. "

Matthew, can you clarify what it is exactly that I said was 
impossible.   I may have misunderstood if it was me you referring to or 
your RC?


Robert Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-09-10 10:33 a.m., Matthew via CnC-List wrote:


That’s interesting.  I keep having issues with my local RC because 
they set only windward/leeward courses, no triangles and no reaches.  
The reported rationale is that “no one ever passes anybody on a 
reach.”  What you’re saying is impossible.


*From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Friday, September 10, 2021 9:23 AM
*To:* Stus-List 
*Cc:* Robert Abbott 
*Subject:* Stus-List C&C 33-II vs 35-II

Some years back when were campaigning a 33-II, we were racing her in 
the Bras d'Or Lakes.there was 35-II from Shediac, NB with a good 
crew.  The course was a beat, reach and runevery race was the 
same, the 33-ii would get to the first windward mark ahead the 35-II, 
but once on the reach and run, loose it all back.   There was nothing 
we could do to change it after 5 races.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C&C 33-II vs 35-II

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Some years back when were campaigning a 33-II, we were racing her in the 
Bras d'Or Lakes.there was 35-II from Shediac, NB with a good crew.  
The course was a beat, reach and runevery race was the same, the 
33-ii would get to the first windward mark ahead the 35-II, but once on 
the reach and run, loose it all back.   There was nothing we could do to 
change it after 5 races.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2021-09-10 9:06 a.m., dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
The C&C 33-2 is very fast on a beat. It has PHRF 132 and the older 
35-2 has PHRF 120. On a beat it’s hard for the 35-2 to stay with the 
slower rated 33-2. However from close reach to run the 35-2  excels. 
It is difficult for a faster rated C&C 37 (PHRF 105) to stay with the 
slower rated C&C 35-2 on those points of sail. I like sailing off the 
wind on a close reach, who doesn’t?  That with the well know strong 
construction of the older 35’s was one reason I got my 35-2 instead of 
a newer 33-2.


On Thu, Sep 9, 2021 at 6:17 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Lol-  never race either but if I did I’d probably notice that the
33-2 is faster than most others I encounter on the water,
especially in light air, should I be noticing such things.
I did get schooled last weekend by a good friend (an accomplished
racer)  in a C&C 32 with tired sails.  (My 33-2 is faster, hands
down, I’m not.) I Had to work very hard and find another gear to
slowly catch up. This in support of dwight’s point - the driver
may matter more than the car.

Sent from my iPhone



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List 34R sails

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Mike:

Talk to Bruce Dempsey...your dock neighbor...he had a beautiful mainsail 
of Pentax with a big roach made for his 34R and other sails.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Butyl Tape tips

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Joel

I have to say I have never had a problem with butyl...my 1984 C&C 
deck/hull is sealed with butyl and still no leaks...I have rebeaded 
various deck fittings with butyl with no leaks.  For the obvious easy 
rebeading and removal, if necessary, , I wouldn't use anything else.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C32 -#277
Halifax, N.S

On Aug 9, 2021, at 8:29 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I’m surprised for butyl tape don’t know if it really stop leak
I had that all over my boat and I had to redo my deck
Hopefully 4200 will go a long way


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List test e-mail

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C&C smile and rust

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

 Greg,

The 'C&C smile' is quite common.  Mine had one when I bought the 
boat.  First place to start with that is torque the keel bolts to 
their specs.  I then sanded the smile to approx 3 inches above and 
below it and wrapped the smile in West System epoxy soaked cloth.  
Let cure and added a second layerlet cure and covered with final 
layer of epoxy mixed with silica to thicken it.  Faired and it has 
never reappeared in 16 seasons.


As for the rust stain above the keel joint, without pictures it is 
difficult to diagnose.   If it is above the keel joint, it does not 
sound like a keel bolt...that would normally drip down below the 
joint.   Was there every a garboard drain that has been sealed up?


Pics on that could help with a diagnose

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2021-08-03 3:45 p.m., Greg Van Nest via CnC-List wrote:
Hi, I'm new here. I tried posting this a couple days ago, but I 
don't know if it went through.  I apologize if it did--I'm not 
trying to be irritating.


I tried searching the archives regarding my question, but didn't 
find anything exactly helpful.


I was looking at a Mk I C&C 30, and noticed the "C&C Smile" on both 
sides of the keel. From what I've read, it's not a terrible problem. 
Certainty not a non-starter, walkway problem.


But there's also a rust stain that looks like it starts above the 
keel joint. Anyone have any idea what this might be?  It's only on 
the port side, not starboard, although both sides have the smile.


I haven't had a chance to look closely at the boat, just a 
walk-around outside without the owner. I hope to look at it closer 
this week, including interior and looking in the bilge, but thought 
I'd ask here first what people think. I've linked two pictures (port 
and starboard).


Thanks in advance for any advice or insight,

Greg

Rusty port: https://photos.app.goo.gl/s7juWvBn86WozXAc9 

Starboard: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pPdfCkc2mTs47ZXE9 



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   Thanks - Stu






Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C&C smile and rust

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Greg,

The 'C&C smile' is quite common.  Mine had one when I bought the 
boat.  First place to start with that is torque the keel bolts to 
their specs.  I then sanded the smile to approx 3 inches above and 
below it and wrapped the smile in West System epoxy soaked cloth.  Let 
cure and added a second layerlet cure and covered with final layer 
of epoxy mixed with silica to thicken it.  Faired and it has never 
reappeared in 16 seasons.


As for the rust stain above the keel joint, without pictures it is 
difficult to diagnose.   If it is above the keel joint, it does not 
sound like a keel bolt...that would normally drip down below the 
joint.   Was there every a garboard drain that has been sealed up?


Pics on that could help with a diagnose

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2021-08-03 3:45 p.m., Greg Van Nest via CnC-List wrote:
Hi, I'm new here. I tried posting this a couple days ago, but I don't 
know if it went through.  I apologize if it did--I'm not trying to be 
irritating.


I tried searching the archives regarding my question, but didn't find 
anything exactly helpful.


I was looking at a Mk I C&C 30, and noticed the "C&C Smile" on both 
sides of the keel. From what I've read, it's not a terrible problem. 
Certainty not a non-starter, walkway problem.


But there's also a rust stain that looks like it starts above the 
keel joint. Anyone have any idea what this might be?  It's only on 
the port side, not starboard, although both sides have the smile.


I haven't had a chance to look closely at the boat, just a 
walk-around outside without the owner. I hope to look at it closer 
this week, including interior and looking in the bilge, but thought 
I'd ask here first what people think. I've linked two pictures (port 
and starboard).


Thanks in advance for any advice or insight,

Greg

Rusty port: https://photos.app.goo.gl/s7juWvBn86WozXAc9 

Starboard: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pPdfCkc2mTs47ZXE9 



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   Thanks - Stu




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List : C&C smile and rust

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

On 2021-08-04 11:03 a.m., Robert Abbott wrote:

Greg,

The 'C&C smile' is quite common.  Mine had one when I bought the 
boat.  First place to start with that is torque the keel bolts to 
their specs.  I then sanded the smile to approx 3 inches above and 
below it and wrapped the smile in West System epoxy soaked cloth.  Let 
cure and added a second layerlet cure and covered with final layer 
of epoxy mixed with silica to thicken it.  Faired and it has never 
reappeared in 16 seasons.


As for the rust stain above the keel joint, without pictures it is 
difficult to diagnose.   If it is above the keel joint, it does not 
sound like a keel bolt...that would normally drip down below the 
joint.   Was there every a garboard drain that has been sealed up?


Pics on that could help with a diagnose

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2021-08-03 3:45 p.m., Greg Van Nest via CnC-List wrote:
Hi, I'm new here. I tried posting this a couple days ago, but I don't 
know if it went through. I apologize if it did--I'm not trying to be 
irritating.


I tried searching the archives regarding my question, but didn't find 
anything exactly helpful.


I was looking at a Mk I C&C 30, and noticed the "C&C Smile" on both 
sides of the keel. From what I've read, it's not a terrible problem. 
Certainty not a non-starter, walkway problem.


But there's also a rust stain that looks like it starts above the 
keel joint. Anyone have any idea what this might be?  It's only on 
the port side, not starboard, although both sides have the smile.


I haven't had a chance to look closely at the boat, just a 
walk-around outside without the owner. I hope to look at it closer 
this week, including interior and looking in the bilge, but thought 
I'd ask here first what people think. I've linked two pictures (port 
and starboard).


Thanks in advance for any advice or insight,

Greg

Rusty port: https://photos.app.goo.gl/s7juWvBn86WozXAc9 

Starboard: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pPdfCkc2mTs47ZXE9 



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   Thanks - Stu




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C&C smile and rust

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

 Greg,

The 'C&C smile' is quite common.  Mine had one when I bought the boat.  
First place to start with that is torque the keel bolts to their specs.  
I then sanded the smile to approx 3 inches above and below it and 
wrapped the smile in West System epoxy soaked cloth.  Let cure and added 
a second layerlet cure and covered with final layer of epoxy mixed 
with silica to thicken it.  Faired and it has never reappeared in 16 
seasons.


As for the rust stain above the keel joint, without pictures it is 
difficult to diagnose.   If it is above the keel joint, it does not 
sound like a keel bolt...that would normally drip down below the 
joint.   Was there every a garboard drain that has been sealed up?


Pics on that could help with a diagnose

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2021-08-03 3:45 p.m., Greg Van Nest via CnC-List wrote:
Hi, I'm new here. I tried posting this a couple days ago, but I don't 
know if it went through. I apologize if it did--I'm not trying to be 
irritating.


I tried searching the archives regarding my question, but didn't find 
anything exactly helpful.


I was looking at a Mk I C&C 30, and noticed the "C&C Smile" on both 
sides of the keel. From what I've read, it's not a terrible problem. 
Certainty not a non-starter, walkway problem.


But there's also a rust stain that looks like it starts above the keel 
joint. Anyone have any idea what this might be?  It's only on the port 
side, not starboard, although both sides have the smile.


I haven't had a chance to look closely at the boat, just a walk-around 
outside without the owner. I hope to look at it closer this week, 
including interior and looking in the bilge, but thought I'd ask here 
first what people think. I've linked two pictures (port and starboard).


Thanks in advance for any advice or insight,

Greg

Rusty port: https://photos.app.goo.gl/s7juWvBn86WozXAc9 

Starboard: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pPdfCkc2mTs47ZXE9 



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C&C smile and rust

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

 Greg,

The 'C&C smile' is quite common.  Mine had one when I bought the 
boat.  First place to start with that is torque the keel bolts to 
their specs.  I then sanded the smile to approx 3 inches above and 
below it and wrapped the smile in West System epoxy soaked cloth.  Let 
cure and added a second layerlet cure and covered with final layer 
of epoxy mixed with silica to thicken it.  Faired and it has never 
reappeared in 16 seasons.


As for the rust stain above the keel joint, without pictures it is 
difficult to diagnose.   If it is above the keel joint, it does not 
sound like a keel bolt...that would normally drip down below the 
joint.   Was there every a garboard drain that has been sealed up?


Pics on that could help with a diagnose

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2021-08-03 3:45 p.m., Greg Van Nest via CnC-List wrote:
Hi, I'm new here. I tried posting this a couple days ago, but I don't 
know if it went through. I apologize if it did--I'm not trying to be 
irritating.


I tried searching the archives regarding my question, but didn't find 
anything exactly helpful.


I was looking at a Mk I C&C 30, and noticed the "C&C Smile" on both 
sides of the keel. From what I've read, it's not a terrible problem. 
Certainty not a non-starter, walkway problem.


But there's also a rust stain that looks like it starts above the 
keel joint. Anyone have any idea what this might be?  It's only on 
the port side, not starboard, although both sides have the smile.


I haven't had a chance to look closely at the boat, just a 
walk-around outside without the owner. I hope to look at it closer 
this week, including interior and looking in the bilge, but thought 
I'd ask here first what people think. I've linked two pictures (port 
and starboard).


Thanks in advance for any advice or insight,

Greg

Rusty port: https://photos.app.goo.gl/s7juWvBn86WozXAc9 

Starboard: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pPdfCkc2mTs47ZXE9 



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   Thanks - Stu




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C&C smile and rust

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Greg,

The 'C&C smile' is quite common.  Mine had one when I bought the boat.  
First place to start with that is torque the keel bolts to their specs.  
I then sanded the smile to approx 3 inches above and below it and 
wrapped the smile in West System epoxy soaked cloth. Let cure and added 
a second layerlet cure and covered with final layer of epoxy mixed 
with silica to thicken it.  Faired and it has never reappeared in 16 
seasons.


As for the rust stain above the keel joint, without pictures it is 
difficult to diagnose.   If it is above the keel joint, it does not 
sound like a keel bolt...that would normally drip down below the 
joint.   Was there every a garboard drain that has been sealed up?


Pics on that could help with a diagnose

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -#277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2021-08-03 3:45 p.m., Greg Van Nest via CnC-List wrote:
Hi, I'm new here. I tried posting this a couple days ago, but I don't 
know if it went through.  I apologize if it did--I'm not trying to be 
irritating.


I tried searching the archives regarding my question, but didn't find 
anything exactly helpful.


I was looking at a Mk I C&C 30, and noticed the "C&C Smile" on both 
sides of the keel. From what I've read, it's not a terrible problem. 
Certainty not a non-starter, walkway problem.


But there's also a rust stain that looks like it starts above the keel 
joint. Anyone have any idea what this might be?  It's only on the port 
side, not starboard, although both sides have the smile.


I haven't had a chance to look closely at the boat, just a walk-around 
outside without the owner. I hope to look at it closer this week, 
including interior and looking in the bilge, but thought I'd ask here 
first what people think. I've linked two pictures (port and starboard).


Thanks in advance for any advice or insight,

Greg

Rusty port: https://photos.app.goo.gl/s7juWvBn86WozXAc9 

Starboard: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pPdfCkc2mTs47ZXE9 



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List PSS Stuffing Box

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

 David,
Could not have said it better...some years back I cleaned out the old 
stuffing and repacked and the stuffing box hardly drips...I have 
checked it after an hour or more under motor and it is cool to the 
touch.  Also get more bilge water from rainmy paddlewhell and plug 
water don't go to the bilge unless I screw up so I sponge it out.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-07-13 4:35 p.m., David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I get a lot more water in the bilge from rain and swapping plug and 
paddlewheel than I do from the dripping shaft, so dripless is a 
non-issue for me.  I tightened up my stuffing box last year and since 
then dripping is almost non-existent and the stuffing box is still 
cool under motor power.  Dave


S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT






Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List PSS Stuffing Box

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

David,
Could not have said it better...some years back I cleaned out the old 
stuffing and repacked and the stuffing box hardly drips...I have checked 
it after an hour or more under motor and it is cool to the touch.  Also 
get more bilge water from rainmy paddlewhell and plug water don't go 
to the bilge unless I screw up so I sponge it out.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-07-13 4:35 p.m., David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I get a lot more water in the bilge from rain and swapping plug and 
paddlewheel than I do from the dripping shaft, so dripless is a 
non-issue for me.  I tightened up my stuffing box last year and since 
then dripping is almost non-existent and the stuffing box is still 
cool under motor power.  Dave


S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Insurance survey cost

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Riley,

I had my 32 surveyed for insurance on the hard in October 2020 for 
$12/ft.total bill with taxes was $442.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-07-05 1:49 p.m., Riley Anderson via CnC-List wrote:

Hi all,

Can any listers provide the cost of insurance surveys for boats in the 
38' range? I'd like to know what others have paid and if you have 
recommendations for particular surveyors around Old Saybrook, CT.


Thanks in advance,
Riley

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List : Question??

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Adam

Looks like I already made my mistake...the mechanic that has the Yanmar 
engine and tranni is...and I think he lives in New Ross.


Evert Powell

Mobile      (902 )298-0192

Email gearjmr@yahoo.com


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2021-06-16 6:40 p.m., Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:
Rob   I know someone in Mahone bay that may need a new engine.  What 
is the make and model again


Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.

*From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Wednesday, June 16, 2021 5:58:41 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Robert Abbott 
*Subject:* Stus-List Question??
T


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Question??

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Adam

I don't have the Yanmar engine model #I know it is a 3 cylinder...if 
you want the mechanic's contact infoI have it...he has the engine and 
tranni and he lives in New Ross which is close to Mahone Bay.


I don't want to broadcast it here but I might have already done it by 
mistake..  email me directly at


robertabb...@eastlink.ca

and I will provide his contact info

Rob

On 2021-06-16 6:40 p.m., Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:
Rob   I know someone in Mahone bay that may need a new engine.  What 
is the make and model again


Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
----
*From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Wednesday, June 16, 2021 5:58:41 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Robert Abbott 
*Subject:* Stus-List Question??
To anyone who might be interested, all others delete:

On the Tartan 37 with failed transmissionowner has now replaced 
with new Yanmar and transmission...apparently I did not get the 
correct info from the owner but I did talk to the mechanic todayit 
actually wasn't the transmission.   The mechanic says it was a 
coupling failure and he could not find a replacement part...Yanmar in 
the USA said it would take a longtime to get one manufacturedthe 
mechanic says he can machine one but how long would it last he could 
not guarantee. and again my misunderstandingthe current second 
owner put 200 hours on the engine/tranni...they now have 1,900 
hoursagain, my misunderstanding.


Nevertheless, the Yanmar 3 cylinder engine and tranni are for sale if 
anyone is interestedthe mechanic has them in his garage.  I did 
not discuss me broadcasting his contact info here on the C&C site but 
he did say if anyone wanted to discuss with him for me to provide them 
with his contact info in Nova Scotia, Canada.


If anyone wants it, let me know here and I will send to your email.

RTob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2021-06-15 3:07 p.m., Garry Cross via CnC-List wrote:

"who would want to buy an engine with no available transmission?"
Someone with a blown engine and good transmission that is the same. 
So far I have not seen the model number of the engine or the 
transmission.

Why did the tranny fail after 200 hours?


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs 
involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>   Thanks - Stu



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Question??

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

On 2021-06-16 6:40 p.m., Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:
Rob   I know someone in Mahone bay that may need a new engine.  What 
is the make and model again


Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.

*From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Wednesday, June 16, 2021 5:58:41 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Robert Abbott 
*Subject:* Stus-List Question??
To anyone who might be interested, all others delete:

On the Tartan 37 with failed transmissionowner has now replaced 
with new Yanmar and transmission...apparently I did not get the 
correct info from the owner but I did talk to the mechanic todayit 
actually wasn't the transmission.   The mechanic says it was a 
coupling failure and he could not find a replacement part...Yanmar in 
the USA said it would take a longtime to get one manufacturedthe 
mechanic says he can machine one but how long would it last he could 
not guarantee. and again my misunderstandingthe current second 
owner put 200 hours on the engine/tranni...they now have 1,900 
hoursagain, my misunderstanding.


Nevertheless, the Yanmar 3 cylinder engine and tranni are for sale if 
anyone is interestedthe mechanic has them in his garage.  I did 
not discuss me broadcasting his contact info here on the C&C site but 
he did say if anyone wanted to discuss with him for me to provide them 
with his contact info in Nova Scotia, Canada.


If anyone wants it, let me know here and I will send to your email.

RTob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2021-06-15 3:07 p.m., Garry Cross via CnC-List wrote:

"who would want to buy an engine with no available transmission?"
Someone with a blown engine and good transmission that is the same. 
So far I have not seen the model number of the engine or the 
transmission.

Why did the tranny fail after 200 hours?


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs 
involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>   Thanks - Stu



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Question??

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

To anyone who might be interested, all others delete:

On the Tartan 37 with failed transmissionowner has now replaced with 
new Yanmar and transmission...apparently I did not get the correct info 
from the owner but I did talk to the mechanic todayit actually 
wasn't the transmission.   The mechanic says it was a coupling failure 
and he could not find a replacement part...Yanmar in the USA said it 
would take a longtime to get one manufacturedthe mechanic says he 
can machine one but how long would it last he could not guarantee. and 
again my misunderstandingthe current second owner put 200 hours on 
the engine/tranni...they now have 1,900 hoursagain, my misunderstanding.


Nevertheless, the Yanmar 3 cylinder engine and tranni are for sale if 
anyone is interestedthe mechanic has them in his garage.  I did not 
discuss me broadcasting his contact info here on the C&C site but he did 
say if anyone wanted to discuss with him for me to provide them with his 
contact info in Nova Scotia, Canada.


If anyone wants it, let me know here and I will send to your email.

RTob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2021-06-15 3:07 p.m., Garry Cross via CnC-List wrote:

"who would want to buy an engine with no available transmission?"
Someone with a blown engine and good transmission that is the same. So 
far I have not seen the model number of the engine or the transmission.

Why did the tranny fail after 200 hours?


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Yanmar engine and transmission

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

John,

Sorry wrong email

gearjmr@yahoo.com

Rob

On 2021-06-16 5:40 p.m., Robert Abbott wrote:

John,

Spoke with the mechanic who has the engine and transmissionhe said 
it was a coupling problem that he might be able to fix, nevertheless 
they are for sale if you are interested.


I didn't ask if I could broadcast his contact info on the C&C list so 
I give it to you only and you can contact him to discuss details if 
interested:


Evert Powell

Mobile      (902 )298-0192

Email gear...@yahoo.com

FYI

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-06-15 3:53 p.m., John and Maryann Read via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Bob

Please advise engine model (3GM??) and transmission make and model 
and ratio – should be on a plate.  My mechanic may have a rebuilt 
Kanzaki available


John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

*From:*Robert Abbott via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
*Sent:* Tuesday, June 15, 2021 9:52 AM
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.






Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Yanmar engine and transmission

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

John,

Spoke with the mechanic who has the engine and transmissionhe said 
it was a coupling problem that he might be able to fix, nevertheless 
they are for sale if you are interested.


I didn't ask if I could broadcast his contact info on the C&C list so I 
give it to you only and you can contact him to discuss details if 
interested:


Evert Powell

Mobile      (902 )298-0192

Email gear...@yahoo.com

FYI

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-06-15 3:53 p.m., John and Maryann Read via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Bob

Please advise engine model (3GM??) and transmission make and model and 
ratio – should be on a plate.  My mechanic may have a rebuilt Kanzaki 
available


John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

*From:*Robert Abbott via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
*Sent:* Tuesday, June 15, 2021 9:52 AM
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List : Question??

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

John
I have the mechanics contact info on my boat (business card) will 
get it maybe tomorrow, or Thursday at the latest, and will get the 
engine and tranni model #'s and ratio and get back to you.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 2021-06-15 3:53 p.m., John and Maryann Read via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Bob

Please advise engine model (3GM??) and transmission make and model and 
ratio – should be on a plate.  My mechanic may have a rebuilt Kanzaki 
available


John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu