Stus-List Anchor chain hook on bow?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,I was reading through one of the sailing magazines, and there was 
commentary about the value of a windlass or "at least an anchor chain hook" you 
can use to take a break when hoisting anchor.  While I don't feel the need for 
a windlass yet, I have had situations when raising the anchor where I've needed 
to wrap chain around one of the forward cleats because a wind gust is blowing 
me off.  This usually results in some chain finding its way through my hands, 
and much more concerning is the chance for hands to be caught between the chain 
and the cleat with crushingly obvious consequences.  If I had the ability to 
easily hook the chain to hold it while the bow swings off the wind or for the 
purposes of pulling the hook out of the mud would be helpful.  Is there such a 
hook that can be permanently mounted on the bow/anchor roller where I could 
simply put the chain under moderate tension for a minute or two while things 
get sorted out?Thanks in advance for your insights,Bruce Whitmore C 37/40+ 
"Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL Sent from Samsung tablet.___

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Re: Stus-List Anchor chain advice

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Wow lots of replies you may not see this 15 kg rons 100 feet 5/16
galvanizet ht anchor cchain 100- 150 feet 1/2 inch nylon braid or 3
strand.  Good to go

On Tue, Nov 20, 2018 at 2:40 PM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Danny.  Take your gypsy off and give it to me next Sunday.I will see
> if my 50' of new and unused chain will fit.
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 *
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Danny
> Haughey via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 20, 2018 10:29 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Danny Haughey
> *Subject:* Stus-List Anchor chain advice
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I've got an old simpson lawrence sprint 1500 windlass on Rum Runner with
> an RC172 gypsy.  This gypsy is for 5/16” G43 HT ISO chain.  Currently I
> can't identify the existing chain but it certainly is the wrong size for
> the gypsy and the measurements don't match G4 or BBB chain.  I have 45lb
> CQR that came with the boat.  So, my plan currently is to go with a new
> chain and shackle.  I was thinking of going all chain at about 275 feet of
> the 5/16 G4.  This is by no means a small investment!  Defender has a 275
> foot 1/2 drum for just under $800.  this is the cheapest I can find by a
> few hundred bucks.  the shackle will add another $100...  I may be able to
> save a few bucks by waiting for the spring sale.
>
> My question is really more of search for validation.  Does this solution
> seem well suited for my situation.  Currently we are coastal cruisers that
> do a week out a couple times a summer around the cape and islands but, I do
> have visions of venturing further.
>
> my only choices for a gypsy is the current one or replace that with one
> that takes 3/8 BBB chain.   That chain is actually more expensive, heavier
> and has a lower working load limit.
>
> Does all chain seem like overkill?  I could also buy a pail of 90 feet
> 5/16 G4 for $300.  the weight difference is about 200lbs over the 275 feet
> of chain.  My T40 has a displacement of 17,250lbs according to sailboat
> data.  the mantus website recommends 5/16 G4 chain for boats up to 40 feet
> and 20,000 lbs.  I know I'm nearing the limit but, I think this is the most
> practical solution for now.   If I were to head off into the sunset, I
> believe I would upgrade the windlass, chain and anchor but, for now...
>
> I'd also like to throw a word out for John over at SL Spares.  We've been
> emailing for a month or two figuring out exactly what I have and my options
> going forward.  really great service if you happen to have one of these old
> simpson lawence units!
>
> --
> Danny
> T40
> Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
>
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> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Anchor chain advice - Shank angle comparison at scope of 5:1, 6:1, 7:1 etc.

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Another thing to consider - the angle of the shank at various scope ratios.  

You might want to look at the following site:  
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/anchor_scope=1, and be sure to look at 
page 2 as well.  

Once you get beyond 6:1 the return on longer line or chain drops off pretty 
dramatically.  It is near logarithmic in my estimation.
The weight of the anchor chain helps the scope up until it is stretched tight.  
After that, the gain from the chain is lost.  I.m guessing that will happen at 
around 40 or 50 knots of wind when you really want it anyway.  t's just weight, 
and it doesn't stretch, meaning lots of shock loads on your cleats and gear.  

So, yes, put out more chain if that makes you feel better, but don't lose track 
of the fact that if your anchor is properly sized, digs in reasonably well (as 
should a Delta, Plow, Rocna, etc.) and has decent holding, even one boat length 
of chain on a good anchor should easily hold in a 40 - 50 knot sustained blow.  
To reduce the chances of grief, anchor in a protected cove.  Finally set an 
anchor drag alarm like the Drag Queen anchor alarm app.  

Just my $.02 worth, Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List Anchor chain advice

[David via CnC-List]

Danny.  Take your gypsy off and give it to me next Sunday.I will see if my 
50' of new and unused chain will fit.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2018 10:29 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Stus-List Anchor chain advice


Hi All,

I've got an old simpson lawrence sprint 1500 windlass on Rum Runner with an 
RC172 gypsy.  This gypsy is for 5/16” G43 HT ISO chain.  Currently I can't 
identify the existing chain but it certainly is the wrong size for the gypsy 
and the measurements don't match G4 or BBB chain.  I have 45lb CQR that came 
with the boat.  So, my plan currently is to go with a new chain and shackle.  I 
was thinking of going all chain at about 275 feet of the 5/16 G4.  This is by 
no means a small investment!  Defender has a 275 foot 1/2 drum for just under 
$800.  this is the cheapest I can find by a few hundred bucks.  the shackle 
will add another $100...  I may be able to save a few bucks by waiting for the 
spring sale.

My question is really more of search for validation.  Does this solution seem 
well suited for my situation.  Currently we are coastal cruisers that do a week 
out a couple times a summer around the cape and islands but, I do have visions 
of venturing further.

my only choices for a gypsy is the current one or replace that with one that 
takes 3/8 BBB chain.   That chain is actually more expensive, heavier and has a 
lower working load limit.

Does all chain seem like overkill?  I could also buy a pail of 90 feet 5/16 G4 
for $300.  the weight difference is about 200lbs over the 275 feet of chain.  
My T40 has a displacement of 17,250lbs according to sailboat data.  the mantus 
website recommends 5/16 G4 chain for boats up to 40 feet and 20,000 lbs.  I 
know I'm nearing the limit but, I think this is the most practical solution for 
now.   If I were to head off into the sunset, I believe I would upgrade the 
windlass, chain and anchor but, for now...

I'd also like to throw a word out for John over at SL Spares.  We've been 
emailing for a month or two figuring out exactly what I have and my options 
going forward.  really great service if you happen to have one of these old 
simpson lawence units!

--
Danny
T40
Rum Runner IV
Mattapoisett, MA

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Re: Stus-List Anchor chain advice

[Mike Rose via CnC-List]

Danny,

Also beware of the tides. I have a +10' tide to consider when I am
anchoring in 15' MLW.  I usually have less rode than I would like because
of space, inside Hadley Harbor comes to mind. I carry 100' chain spliced to
150' rope.

Mike
s/v Shannon Rose
C 39
Marblehead, MA


>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2018 10:29:59 -0500
> From: Danny Haughey 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Anchor chain advice
> Message-ID: <5ff85159-09c0-83c4-4208-35ce1...@juno.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
> Hi All,
>
> I've got an old simpson lawrence sprint 1500 windlass on Rum Runner with
> an RC172 gypsy.? This gypsy is for 5/16? G43 HT ISO chain.? Currently I
> can't identify the existing chain but it certainly is the wrong size for
> the gypsy and the measurements don't match G4 or BBB chain.? I have 45lb
> CQR that came with the boat.? So, my plan currently is to go with a new
> chain and shackle.? I was thinking of going all chain at about 275 feet
> of the 5/16 G4.? This is by no means a small investment!? Defender has a
> 275 foot 1/2 drum for just under $800.? this is the cheapest I can find
> by a few hundred bucks.? the shackle will add another $100...? I may be
> able to save a few bucks by waiting for the spring sale.
>
> My question is really more of search for validation.? Does this solution
> seem well suited for my situation.? Currently we are coastal cruisers
> that do a week out a couple times a summer around the cape and islands
> but, I do have visions of venturing further.
>
> my only choices for a gypsy is the current one or replace that with one
> that takes 3/8 BBB chain. That chain is actually more expensive, heavier
> and has a lower working load limit.
>
> Does all chain seem like overkill?? I could also buy a pail of 90 feet
> 5/16 G4 for $300.? the weight difference is about 200lbs over the 275
> feet of chain.? My T40 has a displacement of 17,250lbs according to
> sailboat data.? the mantus website recommends 5/16 G4 chain for boats up
> to 40 feet and 20,000 lbs.? I know I'm nearing the limit but, I think
> this is the most practical solution for now. If I were to head off into
> the sunset, I believe I would upgrade the windlass, chain and anchor
> but, for now...
>
> I'd also like to throw a word out for John over at SL Spares.? We've
> been emailing for a month or two figuring out exactly what I have and my
> options going forward.? really great service if you happen to have one
> of these old simpson lawence units!
>
> --
> Danny
> T40
> Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Anchor chain advice

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Excellent question.  When I installed a windlass and 200 feet of chain on a
client's boat, I had the store load the barrel of chain into my Suburban
with a forklift.  Fortunately for me the boat was bow in on a bulkhead.  We
simply used the new windlass to fed it from the back of the Suburban into
the chain locker.

If the boat is out on a pier, relocate the boat.  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Nov 20, 2018 at 11:33 AM Chuck S via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
> Curious,  How does someone get 300# of chain from the store to the boat?
>
>
> At 1.10#/ft that will weigh 302#.  Split it up into 6) 5gal buckets, the
> portions would be more manageble at 50# each and that would fit in a
> dolly/cart and could be safely handled by one person, as in lifted in and
> out of a car.
>
>
>
> I'm a big believer in using a 20# kellet and/or two anchors.   My boat
> does not have an anchor locker, so I have to carry my rode out of the
> cabin.   I keep it all in a canvas carryall bag and I've done it so many
> times, it's become very easy.
>
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Anchor chain advice

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Curious,  How does someone get 300# of chain from the store to the boat?  


At 1.10#/ft that will weigh 302#.  Split it up into 6) 5gal buckets, the 
portions would be more manageble at 50# each and that would fit in a dolly/cart 
and could be safely handled by one person, as in lifted in and out of a car.



I'm a big believer in using a 20# kellet and/or two anchors.   My boat does not 
have an anchor locker, so I have to carry my rode out of the cabin.   I keep it 
all in a canvas carryall bag and I've done it so many times, it's become very 
easy. 



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On November 20, 2018 at 10:29 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
>  
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I've got an old simpson lawrence sprint 1500 windlass on Rum Runner with 
> an RC172 gypsy.  This gypsy is for 5/16” G43 HT ISO chain.  Currently I can't 
> identify the existing chain but it certainly is the wrong size for the gypsy 
> and the measurements don't match G4 or BBB chain.  I have 45lb CQR that came 
> with the boat.  So, my plan currently is to go with a new chain and shackle.  
> I was thinking of going all chain at about 275 feet of the 5/16 G4.  This is 
> by no means a small investment!  Defender has a 275 foot 1/2 drum for just 
> under $800.  this is the cheapest I can find by a few hundred bucks.  the 
> shackle will add another $100...  I may be able to save a few bucks by 
> waiting for the spring sale.
> 
> My question is really more of search for validation.  Does this solution 
> seem well suited for my situation.  Currently we are coastal cruisers that do 
> a week out a couple times a summer around the cape and islands but, I do have 
> visions of venturing further.
> 
> my only choices for a gypsy is the current one or replace that with one 
> that takes 3/8 BBB chain.   That chain is actually more expensive, heavier 
> and has a lower working load limit.
> 
> Does all chain seem like overkill?  I could also buy a pail of 90 feet 
> 5/16 G4 for $300.  the weight difference is about 200lbs over the 275 feet of 
> chain.  My T40 has a displacement of 17,250lbs according to sailboat data.  
> the mantus website recommends 5/16 G4 chain for boats up to 40 feet and 
> 20,000 lbs.  I know I'm nearing the limit but, I think this is the most 
> practical solution for now.   If I were to head off into the sunset, I 
> believe I would upgrade the windlass, chain and anchor but, for now...
> 
> I'd also like to throw a word out for John over at SL Spares.  We've been 
> emailing for a month or two figuring out exactly what I have and my options 
> going forward.  really great service if you happen to have one of these old 
> simpson lawence units!
> 
> -- 
> Danny
> T40
> Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
> 


 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 


 
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Anchor chain advice

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I will add a little bit to this discussion on chain anchor rode.  After having 
an all chain rode now for 3 years as a cruiser (coastal and Bahamas), chain 
provides an unmatched level of security.  I have 225 feet of (5/16”) chain in 
my bow locker and it’s true that it can affect the boat’s balance but it can be 
offset by keeping the forward water tank empty (which I do when bucking strong 
headwinds).  I also removed my second anchor which I never needed anyway and 
replaced it with a Fortress for use in emergencies.  I have a secondary anchor 
rode which is a combination of rope and chain but this one is not used with the 
windlass.  The maximum length of chain I have ever used is 150 feet.  So, you 
could use just 150 feet and then add rope to the end that rarely if ever gets 
used—I’ve thought about altering my anchor rode this way to save weight in the 
bow.

Don’t forget that chain provides the luxury of less scope that a rope rode.  I 
would recommend tailoring your length of chain to your current cruising area 
and not for some future goal.  You will carrying around all that chain from now 
until the future whether you ever need it or not.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently traveling south on ICW)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Nov 20, 2018, at 11:30 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Danny,
> Even with a 40’ boat, placing that much chain in a bow locker will 
> drastically change the balance of the boat and boat handling will be 
> compromised.  We had friends with a Tayana 64 that sailed beautifully upwind 
> and downwind until they put 250’ of chain in the bow.  Downwind the boat 
> suffered greatly and steered like a truck going upwind as the bow tended to 
> plow.
> Why not use a combination of chain and 8 Plait rope that will fit the gypsy 
> on your Windlass and save yourself considerable weight?
> Most firm 8 plait rode will act just like chain in your windlass and wont 
> require a shackle at the chain/rope junction.  If the windlass is designed to 
> accommodate 5/16” chain, using 5/8” 8 Plait should be sufficiently large and 
> robust to allow the chain/rope to pass smoothly into your locker and will 
> take up far less room than a comparable length chain only rode.
>  
> Full disclosure, I work for a rope manufacturer so perhaps my preference 
> towards a combination rode may not be completely unbiased.  I will say that 
> the folks at Defender sell literally thousands and thousands of feet of both 
> chain and rope and given their New England locale, I don’t think its 
> unreasonable to take their advice given your sailing area.
> Best,
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Danny Haughey via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2018 10:30 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Danny Haughey 
> Subject: Stus-List Anchor chain advice
>  
> Hi All,
> 
> I've got an old simpson lawrence sprint 1500 windlass on Rum Runner with an 
> RC172 gypsy.  This gypsy is for 5/16” G43 HT ISO chain.  Currently I can't 
> identify the existing chain but it certainly is the wrong size for the gypsy 
> and the measurements don't match G4 or BBB chain.  I have 45lb CQR that came 
> with the boat.  So, my plan currently is to go with a new chain and shackle.  
> I was thinking of going all chain at about 275 feet of the 5/16 G4.  This is 
> by no means a small investment!  Defender has a 275 foot 1/2 drum for just 
> under $800.  this is the cheapest I can find by a few hundred bucks.  the 
> shackle will add another $100...  I may be able to save a few bucks by 
> waiting for the spring sale.
> 
> My question is really more of search for validation.  Does this solution seem 
> well suited for my situation.  Currently we are coastal cruisers that do a 
> week out a couple times a summer around the cape and islands but, I do have 
> visions of venturing further.
> 
> my only choices for a gypsy is the current one or replace that with one that 
> takes 3/8 BBB chain.   That chain is actually more expensive, heavier and has 
> a lower working load limit.
> 
> Does all chain seem like overkill?  I could also buy a pail of 90 feet 5/16 
> G4 for $300.  the weight difference is about 200lbs over the 275 feet of 
> chain.  My T40 has a displacement of 17,250lbs according to sailboat data.  
> the mantus website recommends 5/16 G4 chain for boats up to 40 feet and 
> 20,000 lbs.  I know I'm nearing the limit but, I think this is the most 
> practical solution for now.   If I were to head off into the sunset, I 
> believe I would upgrade the windlass, chain and anchor but, for now...
> 
> I'd also like to throw a word out for John over at SL Spares.  We've been 
>

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain advice

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Danny,

I needed chain for one of my clients a few years ago.  I asked the local
crab fishermen where they got chain.  They pointed me to a local
Vietnamese-owned marine supply store where I bought chain at a decent
discount to the regular marine supply stores.  Ask the local fishermen!

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Nov 20, 2018 at 9:31 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I've got an old simpson lawrence sprint 1500 windlass on Rum Runner with
> an RC172 gypsy.  This gypsy is for 5/16” G43 HT ISO chain.  Currently I
> can't identify the existing chain but it certainly is the wrong size for
> the gypsy and the measurements don't match G4 or BBB chain.  I have 45lb
> CQR that came with the boat.  So, my plan currently is to go with a new
> chain and shackle.  I was thinking of going all chain at about 275 feet of
> the 5/16 G4.  This is by no means a small investment!  Defender has a 275
> foot 1/2 drum for just under $800.  this is the cheapest I can find by a
> few hundred bucks.  the shackle will add another $100...  I may be able to
> save a few bucks by waiting for the spring sale.
>
> My question is really more of search for validation.  Does this solution
> seem well suited for my situation.  Currently we are coastal cruisers that
> do a week out a couple times a summer around the cape and islands but, I do
> have visions of venturing further.
>
> my only choices for a gypsy is the current one or replace that with one
> that takes 3/8 BBB chain.   That chain is actually more expensive, heavier
> and has a lower working load limit.
>
> Does all chain seem like overkill?  I could also buy a pail of 90 feet
> 5/16 G4 for $300.  the weight difference is about 200lbs over the 275 feet
> of chain.  My T40 has a displacement of 17,250lbs according to sailboat
> data.  the mantus website recommends 5/16 G4 chain for boats up to 40 feet
> and 20,000 lbs.  I know I'm nearing the limit but, I think this is the most
> practical solution for now.   If I were to head off into the sunset, I
> believe I would upgrade the windlass, chain and anchor but, for now...
>
> I'd also like to throw a word out for John over at SL Spares.  We've been
> emailing for a month or two figuring out exactly what I have and my options
> going forward.  really great service if you happen to have one of these old
> simpson lawence units!
>
> --
> Danny
> T40
> Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Anchor chain advice

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Joel,

Anchoring is pretty new to us but the goal is to stay in 15 feet or 
less.  So, you point is well taken.


Fred,

I was considering the 90 feet of chain option.  Isn't the rule of thumb 
7:1 including the free board?  I mean, still, 90 feet of chain laid out 
on the bottom should be plenty to keep that anchor at a good angle.


Given our very limited experience with anchoring I was thinking I should 
go over and above but, if that's not necessary why spend the money, 
right?  John Over at SL apares said he would run some calculations to 
know how much chain the windlass can handle so, maybe that will make the 
decision for me.


Danny



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Re: Stus-List Anchor chain advice

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Danny,

Even with a 40’ boat, placing that much chain in a bow locker will drastically 
change the balance of the boat and boat handling will be compromised.  We had 
friends with a Tayana 64 that sailed beautifully upwind and downwind until they 
put 250’ of chain in the bow.  Downwind the boat suffered greatly and steered 
like a truck going upwind as the bow tended to plow.

Why not use a combination of chain and 8 Plait rope that will fit the gypsy on 
your Windlass and save yourself considerable weight?

Most firm 8 plait rode will act just like chain in your windlass and wont 
require a shackle at the chain/rope junction.  If the windlass is designed to 
accommodate 5/16” chain, using 5/8” 8 Plait should be sufficiently large and 
robust to allow the chain/rope to pass smoothly into your locker and will take 
up far less room than a comparable length chain only rode.

 

Full disclosure, I work for a rope manufacturer so perhaps my preference 
towards a combination rode may not be completely unbiased.  I will say that the 
folks at Defender sell literally thousands and thousands of feet of both chain 
and rope and given their New England locale, I don’t think its unreasonable to 
take their advice given your sailing area.

Best,

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2018 10:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Stus-List Anchor chain advice

 

Hi All,

I've got an old simpson lawrence sprint 1500 windlass on Rum Runner with an 
RC172 gypsy.  This gypsy is for 5/16” G43 HT ISO chain.  Currently I can't 
identify the existing chain but it certainly is the wrong size for the gypsy 
and the measurements don't match G4 or BBB chain.  I have 45lb CQR that came 
with the boat.  So, my plan currently is to go with a new chain and shackle.  I 
was thinking of going all chain at about 275 feet of the 5/16 G4.  This is by 
no means a small investment!  Defender has a 275 foot 1/2 drum for just under 
$800.  this is the cheapest I can find by a few hundred bucks.  the shackle 
will add another $100...  I may be able to save a few bucks by waiting for the 
spring sale.

My question is really more of search for validation.  Does this solution seem 
well suited for my situation.  Currently we are coastal cruisers that do a week 
out a couple times a summer around the cape and islands but, I do have visions 
of venturing further.

my only choices for a gypsy is the current one or replace that with one that 
takes 3/8 BBB chain.   That chain is actually more expensive, heavier and has a 
lower working load limit.

Does all chain seem like overkill?  I could also buy a pail of 90 feet 5/16 G4 
for $300.  the weight difference is about 200lbs over the 275 feet of chain.  
My T40 has a displacement of 17,250lbs according to sailboat data.  the mantus 
website recommends 5/16 G4 chain for boats up to 40 feet and 20,000 lbs.  I 
know I'm nearing the limit but, I think this is the most practical solution for 
now.   If I were to head off into the sunset, I believe I would upgrade the 
windlass, chain and anchor but, for now...

I'd also like to throw a word out for John over at SL Spares.  We've been 
emailing for a month or two figuring out exactly what I have and my options 
going forward.  really great service if you happen to have one of these old 
simpson lawence units!

-- 
Danny
T40
Rum Runner IV
Mattapoisett, MA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain advice

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Danny — unless you’re anchoring deep or in tropical waters (read: coral) all 
the time, I would think 90 feet of chain (over two boat lengths) would work for 
your type of sailing.  This would easily give you a 5:1 scope in fifteen feet 
of water without going onto the rope rode.  And the size and type of chain 
should be fine.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 20, 2018, at 9:29 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I've got an old simpson lawrence sprint 1500 windlass on Rum Runner with an 
> RC172 gypsy.  This gypsy is for 5/16” G43 HT ISO chain.  Currently I can't 
> identify the existing chain but it certainly is the wrong size for the gypsy 
> and the measurements don't match G4 or BBB chain.  I have 45lb CQR that came 
> with the boat.  So, my plan currently is to go with a new chain and shackle.  
> I was thinking of going all chain at about 275 feet of the 5/16 G4.  This is 
> by no means a small investment!  Defender has a 275 foot 1/2 drum for just 
> under $800.  this is the cheapest I can find by a few hundred bucks.  the 
> shackle will add another $100...  I may be able to save a few bucks by 
> waiting for the spring sale.
> 
> My question is really more of search for validation.  Does this solution seem 
> well suited for my situation.  Currently we are coastal cruisers that do a 
> week out a couple times a summer around the cape and islands but, I do have 
> visions of venturing further.
> 
> my only choices for a gypsy is the current one or replace that with one that 
> takes 3/8 BBB chain.   That chain is actually more expensive, heavier and has 
> a lower working load limit.
> 
> Does all chain seem like overkill?  I could also buy a pail of 90 feet 5/16 
> G4 for $300.  the weight difference is about 200lbs over the 275 feet of 
> chain.  My T40 has a displacement of 17,250lbs according to sailboat data.  
> the mantus website recommends 5/16 G4 chain for boats up to 40 feet and 
> 20,000 lbs.  I know I'm nearing the limit but, I think this is the most 
> practical solution for now.   If I were to head off into the sunset, I 
> believe I would upgrade the windlass, chain and anchor but, for now...
> 
> I'd also like to throw a word out for John over at SL Spares.  We've been 
> emailing for a month or two figuring out exactly what I have and my options 
> going forward.  really great service if you happen to have one of these old 
> simpson lawence units!
> 
> -- 
> Danny
> T40
> Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain advice

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Danny,

How deep are your typical anchorages?  If you are anchoring in 15 feet of
water you will have 200 feet of chain left in the locker.
Don't forget about an anchor hook and snubber.

Joel


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Tue, Nov 20, 2018 at 10:31 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I've got an old simpson lawrence sprint 1500 windlass on Rum Runner with
> an RC172 gypsy.  This gypsy is for 5/16” G43 HT ISO chain.  Currently I
> can't identify the existing chain but it certainly is the wrong size for
> the gypsy and the measurements don't match G4 or BBB chain.  I have 45lb
> CQR that came with the boat.  So, my plan currently is to go with a new
> chain and shackle.  I was thinking of going all chain at about 275 feet of
> the 5/16 G4.  This is by no means a small investment!  Defender has a 275
> foot 1/2 drum for just under $800.  this is the cheapest I can find by a
> few hundred bucks.  the shackle will add another $100...  I may be able to
> save a few bucks by waiting for the spring sale.
>
> My question is really more of search for validation.  Does this solution
> seem well suited for my situation.  Currently we are coastal cruisers that
> do a week out a couple times a summer around the cape and islands but, I do
> have visions of venturing further.
>
> my only choices for a gypsy is the current one or replace that with one
> that takes 3/8 BBB chain.   That chain is actually more expensive, heavier
> and has a lower working load limit.
>
> Does all chain seem like overkill?  I could also buy a pail of 90 feet
> 5/16 G4 for $300.  the weight difference is about 200lbs over the 275 feet
> of chain.  My T40 has a displacement of 17,250lbs according to sailboat
> data.  the mantus website recommends 5/16 G4 chain for boats up to 40 feet
> and 20,000 lbs.  I know I'm nearing the limit but, I think this is the most
> practical solution for now.   If I were to head off into the sunset, I
> believe I would upgrade the windlass, chain and anchor but, for now...
>
> I'd also like to throw a word out for John over at SL Spares.  We've been
> emailing for a month or two figuring out exactly what I have and my options
> going forward.  really great service if you happen to have one of these old
> simpson lawence units!
>
> --
> Danny
> T40
> Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Anchor chain advice

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi All,

I've got an old simpson lawrence sprint 1500 windlass on Rum Runner with 
an RC172 gypsy.  This gypsy is for 5/16” G43 HT ISO chain.  Currently I 
can't identify the existing chain but it certainly is the wrong size for 
the gypsy and the measurements don't match G4 or BBB chain.  I have 45lb 
CQR that came with the boat.  So, my plan currently is to go with a new 
chain and shackle.  I was thinking of going all chain at about 275 feet 
of the 5/16 G4.  This is by no means a small investment!  Defender has a 
275 foot 1/2 drum for just under $800.  this is the cheapest I can find 
by a few hundred bucks.  the shackle will add another $100...  I may be 
able to save a few bucks by waiting for the spring sale.


My question is really more of search for validation.  Does this solution 
seem well suited for my situation.  Currently we are coastal cruisers 
that do a week out a couple times a summer around the cape and islands 
but, I do have visions of venturing further.


my only choices for a gypsy is the current one or replace that with one 
that takes 3/8 BBB chain. That chain is actually more expensive, heavier 
and has a lower working load limit.


Does all chain seem like overkill?  I could also buy a pail of 90 feet 
5/16 G4 for $300.  the weight difference is about 200lbs over the 275 
feet of chain.  My T40 has a displacement of 17,250lbs according to 
sailboat data.  the mantus website recommends 5/16 G4 chain for boats up 
to 40 feet and 20,000 lbs.  I know I'm nearing the limit but, I think 
this is the most practical solution for now. If I were to head off into 
the sunset, I believe I would upgrade the windlass, chain and anchor 
but, for now...


I'd also like to throw a word out for John over at SL Spares.  We've 
been emailing for a month or two figuring out exactly what I have and my 
options going forward.  really great service if you happen to have one 
of these old simpson lawence units!


--
Danny
T40
Rum Runner IV
Mattapoisett, MA

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain & rode advice, C 37/40+

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I’m a big believer in big anchors. And, as I’ve said before, an old USCG Chief 
taught me the rule of thumb is at least a pound of anchor and a foot of chain 
per foot of boat length. So my 38 has a 20 kg Bruce (44#) as primary anchor and 
a 45# CQR as backup on the bow rollers. I’ve dragged  too many Danforth anchors 
over the years to really trust one, but I do have a Fortress storm anchor and 
lunch hook that will be broken down and stored below when I go cruising.  Each 
of the has 65anchors on the bow has 65 feet of 5/16 high tensile chain and 200 
feet of 2-strand nylon rode. That lets me anchor in up to 20 feet of water on 
chain (I let the rope/chain splice out to the surface of the water, and have 
about 10 feet of nylon between chain and boat to act as a snubber) and lets me 
anchor in up to about 35-40 feet if I need to someday.

 

If I had my druthers (and more money) I’d replace the CQR with a Rocna 
(probably the Vulcan) or a Manson Supreme and make that my primary anchor.

 

I had the big CQR before I installed the rollers and my windlass. (I decided 
I’m getting too old to pull that b###ch  out of the water by hand on a regular 
basis.) The windlass is an 1100 Watt vertical model with both a gypsy and a 
wildcat, so I can handle both rodes if I need to. The 38 mk2 doesn’t have a 
chain locker, so the two rodes are run through hawse pipes into the space 
forward of the v-berth. The primary anchor is routed around the gypsy of the 
windlass and down through the hawse built into the windlass, the secondary is 
pulled in using the wildcat and has a separate hawse pipe through the deck. To 
retrieve the anchors when both are set (which I have only done once or twice 
for practice), I need to free the primary from the gypsy and retrieve the 
secondary first – then reengage the primary rode on the gypsy and retrieve it. 
Not pretty or quick, but it does work, and two anchors is something I’d likely 
only use in storm conditions.

 

As someone already pointed out, you need to think of anchor rode and windlass 
as a single system. I had to order the windlass with a gypsy that would work 
with my chain. Most makers offer different gypsy size options for their models. 
 It’s actually not as complex as it seems because there are only a few 
chain/rope size configurations recommended for a given size of boat.  But you 
need to think about how the system is going to come together before you buy any 
of the components.

 

One last comment, I think a manual windlass would be preferable to my electric 
one. Less complex, no electric power required, simpler to install (no 
batteries, fuses, switches, remote or wiring), and potentially a lot more 
trouble free. 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 2, 2017 9:59 AM
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Bruce Whitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Stus-List Anchor chain & rode advice, C 37/40+

 

Hello all,





We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and the anchor chain connected to its primary 
anchor, a 35 lb. Delta, is fused together with rust.  The chain is also about 
20 ft. in length, which I suspect is too short, as the conventional wisdom I 
think is that chain at least as long as the boat is highly recommended in order 
to keep the anchor set.  







Then there is the line, which is about 150 feet, which equally I think is a 
little short, though we are located on the west side of Florida where anchoring 
in 20 feet of water is almost an impossibility unless we're stupid enough to 
set anchor in the middle of the ICW.  That said, we will eventually want to be 
doing some cruising down into the Caribbean, so I'm thinking carrying some 
additional rode poses little downsides.





Finally, I've read that the recommended line size is 1/8" for every 9 feet of 
boat length, but of course that is somewhat relevant as to windage and boat 
weight.  I consider our C to be relatively low both on the windage and weight 
scales, especially compared to the 40 foot powerboats I've seen out there.  The 
1/2" line (which is on the boat now) has a breaking strength of 7,500 lbs., but 
I presume the issue is more about chafe protection than breaking strength per 
se.  So, the questions are as follows:





1).  What size, type and length of chain would you recommend?  We don't have a 
windlass now, but may eventually put one in.





2).  Should I go with 9/16" line vs. the 1/2"?  What length would you recommend 
if you were going to consider cruising in the Caribbean?  







I'm thinking of carrying 40 ft. of BBB chain and 250 ft. of rode on the primary 
Delta anchor, and perhaps a little less on both chain and line for our 
secondary (a Danforth), though I'm not sure that carrying the lesser amount on 
the secondary is advisable.







Thanks in advance, 



Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain & rode advice, C 37/40+

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Good advice.  Gypsies are VERY specific for chain.  Size and grade matter.
Definitely check and order the correct gypsy or plan on buying new chain.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Oct 2, 2017 at 1:49 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I just replaced my old breaker blowing, jamming, 14 year old windlass. It
> turns out that the 50 feet of 3/8 BBB chain and the 200 feet of 3/4 nylon
> rope were incompatible with the existing gypsy. Gypsies are selective about
> their rode so if I were buying new I would make sure it would work with my
> existing windlass or my prospective new windlass. Check the manufacturers
> specification for rode before you buy.
>
> Alan Liles
> SV Elendil
> C 37/40+
> Vancouver
>
>
> On Oct 2, 2017, at 10:09 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> It just occurred to me that I misspoke about the 9/16ths chain.  *I ment
> 5/16ths*.
>
> Josh
>
> On Oct 2, 2017 11:48 AM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:
>
>> Bruce,
>>
>> I'm in the process of upgrading/modifying my ground tackle in preps for a
>> manual windlass.  The PO had arranged a 35lbs Bruce claw with 20' of 3/8ths
>> BBB chain shackled to 3/4" double braid which had an eye splice and
>> thimble.  The thimble was huge and made retrieving the anchor difficult
>> since getting the thimble to roll over the bow roller was almost
>> impossible.  I never had to ride out a severe storm but there were a few
>> spirited nights which held securely.  Some people don't sleep well on the
>> hook but I never had a problem.
>>
>> As for the upgrade:  I found a manual Simpson Lawrence Anchorman 500 on
>> ebay for ~$200.  It came with a gypsy that is designed to seamlessly
>> transition from rode to chain.  Multiple gypsies were available but this
>> one takes 9/16th g4 chain and 1/2 rode.  I'd hear good things about plated
>> nylon rode (it doesn't twist and cause hockles in the chain) so while I was
>> wondering Bacon Sail in Annapolis I purchased their ~150 feet.  I was also
>> prepared to buy cut chain but when I toured in the back I found a small
>> cardboard box labeled 9/16 g4 35'.  It was a little shorter than I had
>> planned but not too much shorter.
>>
>> I do all my own rope splices and rigging so it wasn't too much to find
>> the instructions for doing a chain to rode splice.  It turned out pretty
>> well.  I have yet to install the windlass.  This season had only
>> necessitated anchoring for 1 single 30 minute swim call.  Evidently the
>> plated rode swells when wet so my 50' flakes jammed tight and I couldn't
>> untie the first one.  I was only able to set the anchor with the chain in 7
>> foot depths.  It held fine and pulled up a huge clump of mud but I wouldn't
>> have trusted it.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Oct 2, 2017 8:59 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello all,
>>>
>>> We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and the anchor chain connected to its primary
>>> anchor, a 35 lb. Delta, is fused together with rust.  The chain is also
>>> about 20 ft. in length, which I suspect is too short, as the conventional
>>> wisdom I think is that chain at least as long as the boat is highly
>>> recommended in order to keep the anchor set.
>>>
>>> Then there is the line, which is about 150 feet, which equally I think
>>> is a little short, though we are located on the west side of Florida where
>>> anchoring in 20 feet of water is almost an impossibility unless we're
>>> stupid enough to set anchor in the middle of the ICW.  That said, we will
>>> eventually want to be doing some cruising down into the Caribbean, so I'm
>>> thinking carrying some additional rode poses little downsides.
>>>
>>> Finally, I've read that the recommended line size is 1/8" for every 9
>>> feet of boat length, but of course that is somewhat relevant as to windage
>>> and boat weight.  I consider our C to be relatively low both on the
>>> windage and weight scales, especially compared to the 40 foot powerboats
>>> I've seen out there.  The 1/2" line (which is on the boat now) has a
>>> breaking strength of 7,500 lbs., but I presume the issue is more about
>>> chafe protection than breaking strength per se.  So, the questions are as
>>> follows:
>>>
>>> 1).  What size, type and length of chain would you recommend?  We don't
>>> have a windlass now, but may eventually put one in.
>>>
>>> 2).  Should I go with 9/16" line vs. the 1/2"?  What length would you
>>> recommend if you were going to consider cruising in the Caribbean?
>>>
>>> I'm thinking of carrying 40 ft. of BBB chain and 250 ft. of rode on the
>>> primary Delta anchor, and perhaps a little less on both chain and line for
>>> our secondary (a Danforth), though I'm not sure that carrying the lesser
>>> amount on the secondary is advisable.
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance,
>>> Bruce Whitmore
>>>
>>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain & rode advice, C 37/40+

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I just replaced my old breaker blowing, jamming, 14 year old windlass. It turns 
out that the 50 feet of 3/8 BBB chain and the 200 feet of 3/4 nylon rope were 
incompatible with the existing gypsy. Gypsies are selective about their rode so 
if I were buying new I would make sure it would work with my existing windlass 
or my prospective new windlass. Check the manufacturers specification for rode 
before you buy. 

Alan Liles
SV Elendil
C 37/40+
Vancouver 


> On Oct 2, 2017, at 10:09 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> It just occurred to me that I misspoke about the 9/16ths chain.  I ment 
> 5/16ths.
> 
> Josh
> 
>> On Oct 2, 2017 11:48 AM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:
>> Bruce,
>> 
>> I'm in the process of upgrading/modifying my ground tackle in preps for a 
>> manual windlass.  The PO had arranged a 35lbs Bruce claw with 20' of 3/8ths 
>> BBB chain shackled to 3/4" double braid which had an eye splice and thimble. 
>>  The thimble was huge and made retrieving the anchor difficult since getting 
>> the thimble to roll over the bow roller was almost impossible.  I never had 
>> to ride out a severe storm but there were a few spirited nights which held 
>> securely.  Some people don't sleep well on the hook but I never had a 
>> problem.
>> 
>> As for the upgrade:  I found a manual Simpson Lawrence Anchorman 500 on ebay 
>> for ~$200.  It came with a gypsy that is designed to seamlessly transition 
>> from rode to chain.  Multiple gypsies were available but this one takes 
>> 9/16th g4 chain and 1/2 rode.  I'd hear good things about plated nylon rode 
>> (it doesn't twist and cause hockles in the chain) so while I was wondering 
>> Bacon Sail in Annapolis I purchased their ~150 feet.  I was also prepared to 
>> buy cut chain but when I toured in the back I found a small cardboard box 
>> labeled 9/16 g4 35'.  It was a little shorter than I had planned but not too 
>> much shorter.
>> 
>> I do all my own rope splices and rigging so it wasn't too much to find the 
>> instructions for doing a chain to rode splice.  It turned out pretty well.  
>> I have yet to install the windlass.  This season had only necessitated 
>> anchoring for 1 single 30 minute swim call.  Evidently the plated rode 
>> swells when wet so my 50' flakes jammed tight and I couldn't untie the first 
>> one.  I was only able to set the anchor with the chain in 7 foot depths.  It 
>> held fine and pulled up a huge clump of mud but I wouldn't have trusted it.
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Oct 2, 2017 8:59 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Hello all,
>>> 
>>> We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and the anchor chain connected to its primary 
>>> anchor, a 35 lb. Delta, is fused together with rust.  The chain is also 
>>> about 20 ft. in length, which I suspect is too short, as the conventional 
>>> wisdom I think is that chain at least as long as the boat is highly 
>>> recommended in order to keep the anchor set.  
>>> 
>>> Then there is the line, which is about 150 feet, which equally I think is a 
>>> little short, though we are located on the west side of Florida where 
>>> anchoring in 20 feet of water is almost an impossibility unless we're 
>>> stupid enough to set anchor in the middle of the ICW.  That said, we will 
>>> eventually want to be doing some cruising down into the Caribbean, so I'm 
>>> thinking carrying some additional rode poses little downsides.
>>> 
>>> Finally, I've read that the recommended line size is 1/8" for every 9 feet 
>>> of boat length, but of course that is somewhat relevant as to windage and 
>>> boat weight.  I consider our C to be relatively low both on the windage 
>>> and weight scales, especially compared to the 40 foot powerboats I've seen 
>>> out there.  The 1/2" line (which is on the boat now) has a breaking 
>>> strength of 7,500 lbs., but I presume the issue is more about chafe 
>>> protection than breaking strength per se.  So, the questions are as follows:
>>> 
>>> 1).  What size, type and length of chain would you recommend?  We don't 
>>> have a windlass now, but may eventually put one in.
>>> 
>>> 2).  Should I go with 9/16" line vs. the 1/2"?  What length would you 
>>> recommend if you were going to consider cruising in the Caribbean?  
>>> 
>>> I'm thinking of carrying 40 ft. of BBB chain and 250 ft. of rode on the 
>>> primary Delta anchor, and perhaps a little less on both chain and line for 
>>> our secondary (a Danforth), though I'm not sure that carrying the lesser 
>>> amount on the secondary is advisable.
>>> 
>>> Thanks in advance, 
>>> Bruce Whitmore
>>> 
>>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
>>> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
>>> contribution to 

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain & rode advice, C 37/40+

[Bill Hoyne via CnC-List]

That is pretty much what I have for my 35mkII here in the PNW. I have slept 
pretty soundly with the Rocna - love how it sets and stays!
-bill


Bill Hoyne
Mithrandir
’74 C MkII
in Victoria,BC

> On Oct 2, 2017, at 11:03 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Here’s what I went with when we outfitted Alera for cruising in the PNW.  44 
> lb Rockna, 100’ 5/16 chain, 200’ 9/16 rode here.  No longer available Quick 
> Genius 1000 windlass.  
> 
> Though, I have no idea if that would be appropriate in the Islands.
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> 
> On Oct 2, 2017, at 8:40 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Mon, 2 Oct 2017 13:58:36 + (UTC)
>> From: Bruce Whitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 
>> <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>>
>> To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
>> Subject: Stus-List Anchor chain & rode advice, C 37/40+
>> Message-ID: <852116460.1157275.1506952716...@mail.yahoo.com 
>> <mailto:852116460.1157275.1506952716...@mail.yahoo.com>>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Hello all,
>> We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and the anchor chain connected to its primary 
>> anchor, a 35 lb. Delta, is fused together with rust.? The chain is also 
>> about 20 ft. in length, which I suspect is too short, as the conventional 
>> wisdom I think is that chain at least as long as the boat is highly 
>> recommended in order to keep the anchor set.? 
>> 
>> Then there is the line, which is about 150 feet, which equally I think is a 
>> little short, though we are located on the west side of Florida where 
>> anchoring in 20 feet of water is almost an impossibility unless we're stupid 
>> enough to set anchor in the middle of the ICW.? That said, we will 
>> eventually want to be doing some cruising down into the Caribbean, so I'm 
>> thinking carrying some additional rode poses little downsides.
>> Finally, I've read that the recommended line size is 1/8" for every 9 feet 
>> of boat length, but of course that is somewhat relevant as to windage and 
>> boat weight.? I consider our C to be relatively low both on the windage 
>> and weight scales, especially compared to the 40 foot powerboats I've seen 
>> out there.? The 1/2" line (which is on the boat now) has a breaking strength 
>> of 7,500 lbs., but I presume the issue is more about chafe protection than 
>> breaking strength per se.? So, the questions are as follows:
>> 1).? What size, type and length of chain would you recommend?? We don't have 
>> a windlass now, but may eventually put one in.
>> 2).? Should I go with 9/16" line vs. the 1/2"?? What length would you 
>> recommend if you were going to consider cruising in the Caribbean?? 
>> 
>> I'm thinking of carrying 40 ft. of BBB chain and 250 ft. of rode on the 
>> primary Delta anchor, and perhaps a little less on both chain and line for 
>> our secondary (a Danforth), though I'm not sure that carrying the lesser 
>> amount on the secondary is advisable.
>> 
>> Thanks in advance, 
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
>> -- next part --
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain & rode advice, C 37/40+

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

It just occurred to me that I misspoke about the 9/16ths chain.  *I ment
5/16ths*.

Josh

On Oct 2, 2017 11:48 AM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:

> Bruce,
>
> I'm in the process of upgrading/modifying my ground tackle in preps for a
> manual windlass.  The PO had arranged a 35lbs Bruce claw with 20' of 3/8ths
> BBB chain shackled to 3/4" double braid which had an eye splice and
> thimble.  The thimble was huge and made retrieving the anchor difficult
> since getting the thimble to roll over the bow roller was almost
> impossible.  I never had to ride out a severe storm but there were a few
> spirited nights which held securely.  Some people don't sleep well on the
> hook but I never had a problem.
>
> As for the upgrade:  I found a manual Simpson Lawrence Anchorman 500 on
> ebay for ~$200.  It came with a gypsy that is designed to seamlessly
> transition from rode to chain.  Multiple gypsies were available but this
> one takes 9/16th g4 chain and 1/2 rode.  I'd hear good things about plated
> nylon rode (it doesn't twist and cause hockles in the chain) so while I was
> wondering Bacon Sail in Annapolis I purchased their ~150 feet.  I was also
> prepared to buy cut chain but when I toured in the back I found a small
> cardboard box labeled 9/16 g4 35'.  It was a little shorter than I had
> planned but not too much shorter.
>
> I do all my own rope splices and rigging so it wasn't too much to find the
> instructions for doing a chain to rode splice.  It turned out pretty well.
> I have yet to install the windlass.  This season had only necessitated
> anchoring for 1 single 30 minute swim call.  Evidently the plated rode
> swells when wet so my 50' flakes jammed tight and I couldn't untie the
> first one.  I was only able to set the anchor with the chain in 7 foot
> depths.  It held fine and pulled up a huge clump of mud but I wouldn't have
> trusted it.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Oct 2, 2017 8:59 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and the anchor chain connected to its primary
>> anchor, a 35 lb. Delta, is fused together with rust.  The chain is also
>> about 20 ft. in length, which I suspect is too short, as the conventional
>> wisdom I think is that chain at least as long as the boat is highly
>> recommended in order to keep the anchor set.
>>
>> Then there is the line, which is about 150 feet, which equally I think is
>> a little short, though we are located on the west side of Florida where
>> anchoring in 20 feet of water is almost an impossibility unless we're
>> stupid enough to set anchor in the middle of the ICW.  That said, we will
>> eventually want to be doing some cruising down into the Caribbean, so I'm
>> thinking carrying some additional rode poses little downsides.
>>
>> Finally, I've read that the recommended line size is 1/8" for every 9
>> feet of boat length, but of course that is somewhat relevant as to windage
>> and boat weight.  I consider our C to be relatively low both on the
>> windage and weight scales, especially compared to the 40 foot powerboats
>> I've seen out there.  The 1/2" line (which is on the boat now) has a
>> breaking strength of 7,500 lbs., but I presume the issue is more about
>> chafe protection than breaking strength per se.  So, the questions are as
>> follows:
>>
>> 1).  What size, type and length of chain would you recommend?  We don't
>> have a windlass now, but may eventually put one in.
>>
>> 2).  Should I go with 9/16" line vs. the 1/2"?  What length would you
>> recommend if you were going to consider cruising in the Caribbean?
>>
>> I'm thinking of carrying 40 ft. of BBB chain and 250 ft. of rode on the
>> primary Delta anchor, and perhaps a little less on both chain and line for
>> our secondary (a Danforth), though I'm not sure that carrying the lesser
>> amount on the secondary is advisable.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain & rode advice, C 37/40+

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

I read this article yesterday.  It starts off talking about snubbers but
them becomes a discussion of anchor rodes and their shock absorbing ability
and how to size rodes accordingly with a discussion about mixed rodes.

https://www.sailmagazine.com/cruising/anchor-snubber-tips

You may find it informative.

Ken H.

On 2 October 2017 at 13:48, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:

> Bruce,
>
> I'm in the process of upgrading/modifying my ground tackle in preps for a
> manual windlass.  The PO had arranged a 35lbs Bruce claw with 20' of 3/8ths
> BBB chain shackled to 3/4" double braid which had an eye splice and
> thimble.  The thimble was huge and made retrieving the anchor difficult
> since getting the thimble to roll over the bow roller was almost
> impossible.  I never had to ride out a severe storm but there were a few
> spirited nights which held securely.  Some people don't sleep well on the
> hook but I never had a problem.
>
> As for the upgrade:  I found a manual Simpson Lawrence Anchorman 500 on
> ebay for ~$200.  It came with a gypsy that is designed to seamlessly
> transition from rode to chain.  Multiple gypsies were available but this
> one takes 9/16th g4 chain and 1/2 rode.  I'd hear good things about plated
> nylon rode (it doesn't twist and cause hockles in the chain) so while I was
> wondering Bacon Sail in Annapolis I purchased their ~150 feet.  I was also
> prepared to buy cut chain but when I toured in the back I found a small
> cardboard box labeled 9/16 g4 35'.  It was a little shorter than I had
> planned but not too much shorter.
>
> I do all my own rope splices and rigging so it wasn't too much to find the
> instructions for doing a chain to rode splice.  It turned out pretty well.
> I have yet to install the windlass.  This season had only necessitated
> anchoring for 1 single 30 minute swim call.  Evidently the plated rode
> swells when wet so my 50' flakes jammed tight and I couldn't untie the
> first one.  I was only able to set the anchor with the chain in 7 foot
> depths.  It held fine and pulled up a huge clump of mud but I wouldn't have
> trusted it.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Oct 2, 2017 8:59 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and the anchor chain connected to its primary
>> anchor, a 35 lb. Delta, is fused together with rust.  The chain is also
>> about 20 ft. in length, which I suspect is too short, as the conventional
>> wisdom I think is that chain at least as long as the boat is highly
>> recommended in order to keep the anchor set.
>>
>> Then there is the line, which is about 150 feet, which equally I think is
>> a little short, though we are located on the west side of Florida where
>> anchoring in 20 feet of water is almost an impossibility unless we're
>> stupid enough to set anchor in the middle of the ICW.  That said, we will
>> eventually want to be doing some cruising down into the Caribbean, so I'm
>> thinking carrying some additional rode poses little downsides.
>>
>> Finally, I've read that the recommended line size is 1/8" for every 9
>> feet of boat length, but of course that is somewhat relevant as to windage
>> and boat weight.  I consider our C to be relatively low both on the
>> windage and weight scales, especially compared to the 40 foot powerboats
>> I've seen out there.  The 1/2" line (which is on the boat now) has a
>> breaking strength of 7,500 lbs., but I presume the issue is more about
>> chafe protection than breaking strength per se.  So, the questions are as
>> follows:
>>
>> 1).  What size, type and length of chain would you recommend?  We don't
>> have a windlass now, but may eventually put one in.
>>
>> 2).  Should I go with 9/16" line vs. the 1/2"?  What length would you
>> recommend if you were going to consider cruising in the Caribbean?
>>
>> I'm thinking of carrying 40 ft. of BBB chain and 250 ft. of rode on the
>> primary Delta anchor, and perhaps a little less on both chain and line for
>> our secondary (a Danforth), though I'm not sure that carrying the lesser
>> amount on the secondary is advisable.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain & rode advice, C 37/40+

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bruce,

I'm in the process of upgrading/modifying my ground tackle in preps for a
manual windlass.  The PO had arranged a 35lbs Bruce claw with 20' of 3/8ths
BBB chain shackled to 3/4" double braid which had an eye splice and
thimble.  The thimble was huge and made retrieving the anchor difficult
since getting the thimble to roll over the bow roller was almost
impossible.  I never had to ride out a severe storm but there were a few
spirited nights which held securely.  Some people don't sleep well on the
hook but I never had a problem.

As for the upgrade:  I found a manual Simpson Lawrence Anchorman 500 on
ebay for ~$200.  It came with a gypsy that is designed to seamlessly
transition from rode to chain.  Multiple gypsies were available but this
one takes 9/16th g4 chain and 1/2 rode.  I'd hear good things about plated
nylon rode (it doesn't twist and cause hockles in the chain) so while I was
wondering Bacon Sail in Annapolis I purchased their ~150 feet.  I was also
prepared to buy cut chain but when I toured in the back I found a small
cardboard box labeled 9/16 g4 35'.  It was a little shorter than I had
planned but not too much shorter.

I do all my own rope splices and rigging so it wasn't too much to find the
instructions for doing a chain to rode splice.  It turned out pretty well.
I have yet to install the windlass.  This season had only necessitated
anchoring for 1 single 30 minute swim call.  Evidently the plated rode
swells when wet so my 50' flakes jammed tight and I couldn't untie the
first one.  I was only able to set the anchor with the chain in 7 foot
depths.  It held fine and pulled up a huge clump of mud but I wouldn't have
trusted it.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Oct 2, 2017 8:59 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and the anchor chain connected to its primary
> anchor, a 35 lb. Delta, is fused together with rust.  The chain is also
> about 20 ft. in length, which I suspect is too short, as the conventional
> wisdom I think is that chain at least as long as the boat is highly
> recommended in order to keep the anchor set.
>
> Then there is the line, which is about 150 feet, which equally I think is
> a little short, though we are located on the west side of Florida where
> anchoring in 20 feet of water is almost an impossibility unless we're
> stupid enough to set anchor in the middle of the ICW.  That said, we will
> eventually want to be doing some cruising down into the Caribbean, so I'm
> thinking carrying some additional rode poses little downsides.
>
> Finally, I've read that the recommended line size is 1/8" for every 9 feet
> of boat length, but of course that is somewhat relevant as to windage and
> boat weight.  I consider our C to be relatively low both on the windage
> and weight scales, especially compared to the 40 foot powerboats I've seen
> out there.  The 1/2" line (which is on the boat now) has a breaking
> strength of 7,500 lbs., but I presume the issue is more about chafe
> protection than breaking strength per se.  So, the questions are as follows:
>
> 1).  What size, type and length of chain would you recommend?  We don't
> have a windlass now, but may eventually put one in.
>
> 2).  Should I go with 9/16" line vs. the 1/2"?  What length would you
> recommend if you were going to consider cruising in the Caribbean?
>
> I'm thinking of carrying 40 ft. of BBB chain and 250 ft. of rode on the
> primary Delta anchor, and perhaps a little less on both chain and line for
> our secondary (a Danforth), though I'm not sure that carrying the lesser
> amount on the secondary is advisable.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain & rode advice, C 37/40+

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

For my 35, I have 30 feet of 5/16” chain and 150 feet 9/16 nylon. It isn’t 
likely that our boats could break ¼” chain, but the heavier weight helps with 
bigger chain and you get more tolerance for losing a little to rust. Likewise 
with the line, even ½” new un-chafed nylon is very strong. We used about 100 
feet of scope during hurricane Charlie when we had ½” nylon and 10 feet of ¼” 
chain and the boat did quite well all night like being on the end of a bungee 
cord ride. The danger is CHAFE in the near term and the line getting old and 
worn in the long term. After the storm I decided to go one size up for 
everything. For the Bay and likely Florida as well, 3X the usual water depth 
you anchor in of chain allows one to fit in with all the cruisers laying to 3X 
scope on their heavy 3/8” chain. Back in the day I would use 5x-7x scope on the 
nylon and need a lot more room than they did. Now in 8-12 feet I usually anchor 
in I use all 30 feet of chain and maybe 6-10 feet of nylon and it works well.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 2, 2017 9:59 AM
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Bruce Whitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Stus-List Anchor chain & rode advice, C 37/40+

Hello all,


We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and the anchor chain connected to its primary 
anchor, a 35 lb. Delta, is fused together with rust.  The chain is also about 
20 ft. in length, which I suspect is too short, as the conventional wisdom I 
think is that chain at least as long as the boat is highly recommended in order 
to keep the anchor set.



Then there is the line, which is about 150 feet, which equally I think is a 
little short, though we are located on the west side of Florida where anchoring 
in 20 feet of water is almost an impossibility unless we're stupid enough to 
set anchor in the middle of the ICW.  That said, we will eventually want to be 
doing some cruising down into the Caribbean, so I'm thinking carrying some 
additional rode poses little downsides.


Finally, I've read that the recommended line size is 1/8" for every 9 feet of 
boat length, but of course that is somewhat relevant as to windage and boat 
weight.  I consider our C to be relatively low both on the windage and weight 
scales, especially compared to the 40 foot powerboats I've seen out there.  The 
1/2" line (which is on the boat now) has a breaking strength of 7,500 lbs., but 
I presume the issue is more about chafe protection than breaking strength per 
se.  So, the questions are as follows:


1).  What size, type and length of chain would you recommend?  We don't have a 
windlass now, but may eventually put one in.


2).  Should I go with 9/16" line vs. the 1/2"?  What length would you recommend 
if you were going to consider cruising in the Caribbean?



I'm thinking of carrying 40 ft. of BBB chain and 250 ft. of rode on the primary 
Delta anchor, and perhaps a little less on both chain and line for our 
secondary (a Danforth), though I'm not sure that carrying the lesser amount on 
the secondary is advisable.



Thanks in advance,

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net<mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Anchor chain & rode advice, C 37/40+

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and the anchor chain connected to its primary 
anchor, a 35 lb. Delta, is fused together with rust.  The chain is also about 
20 ft. in length, which I suspect is too short, as the conventional wisdom I 
think is that chain at least as long as the boat is highly recommended in order 
to keep the anchor set.  

Then there is the line, which is about 150 feet, which equally I think is a 
little short, though we are located on the west side of Florida where anchoring 
in 20 feet of water is almost an impossibility unless we're stupid enough to 
set anchor in the middle of the ICW.  That said, we will eventually want to be 
doing some cruising down into the Caribbean, so I'm thinking carrying some 
additional rode poses little downsides.
Finally, I've read that the recommended line size is 1/8" for every 9 feet of 
boat length, but of course that is somewhat relevant as to windage and boat 
weight.  I consider our C to be relatively low both on the windage and weight 
scales, especially compared to the 40 foot powerboats I've seen out there.  The 
1/2" line (which is on the boat now) has a breaking strength of 7,500 lbs., but 
I presume the issue is more about chafe protection than breaking strength per 
se.  So, the questions are as follows:
1).  What size, type and length of chain would you recommend?  We don't have a 
windlass now, but may eventually put one in.
2).  Should I go with 9/16" line vs. the 1/2"?  What length would you recommend 
if you were going to consider cruising in the Caribbean?  

I'm thinking of carrying 40 ft. of BBB chain and 250 ft. of rode on the primary 
Delta anchor, and perhaps a little less on both chain and line for our 
secondary (a Danforth), though I'm not sure that carrying the lesser amount on 
the secondary is advisable.

Thanks in advance, 
Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I recall reading about chain splicing/welding by  cutting an “X” pattern in the 
sides of the two joining links allowing the links to fit together.  Then the 
“X” openings of links are tig  or mig welded closed (I even think they use 
stainless tig wire).   The result is claimed to a smooth connecting stronger 
than using a splice/repair link.   My guess is that the splice is weaker than 
the original, but likely inline with how some have a larger link added to a 
chain to facilitate anchor shackling.


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Feb 12, 2017, at 9:32 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2017 09:23:22 -0800
> From: Fred Hazzard <fshazz...@gmail.com <mailto:fshazz...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Anchor chain
> Message-ID:
>   <can6migaxwsbz0sh1hlnn9hsmnz08g1qhzjoaynfugxayxmu...@mail.gmail.com 
> <mailto:can6migaxwsbz0sh1hlnn9hsmnz08g1qhzjoaynfugxayxmu...@mail.gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I have another 50 feet of chain I would like to add to my existing chain
> for my ground tackle.  What is the feeling of the listers about using a
> link/  If I use a shackle it would bind in my anchor windless.
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20170212/4d4b982d/attachment-0001.html
>  
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20170212/4d4b982d/attachment-0001.html>>

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Re: Stus-List Anchor chain

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Fred,
  Practical Sailor mag had good article in January 2017 updating an earlier 
article from 2016.  Its an expensive mag but lots of good tests...including wth 
is one on anchor shackles.  I would copy and post but sticky copyright issues...
Bill Walker
Cnc 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Sunday, February 12, 2017 Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  
wrote:

I have another 50 feet of chain I would like to add to my existing chain for my 
ground tackle.  What is the feeling of the listers about using a link/  If I 
use a shackle it would bind in my anchor windless.


Fred Hazzard

S/V Fury

C 44

Portland, Or

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Fred,

I don't believe there is anything wrong using a 
high quality link, with the expectation that it 
is replaced occasionally due to corrosion issues 
where it is difficult to inspect.

It might be tricky to get one that matches the pitch an your windlass head.

https://www.amazon.com/CM-664038-2-Hammerlok-Herc-Alloy-Limit/dp/B00H8SN4QY/ref=sr_1_16/162-7718447-7663043?s=industrial=UTF8=1486930680=1-16


Many years ago I used one that was two halves 
nestled together over pins and the pin heads got 
peened over. Better than the Hammerlock style to 
limit corrosion issues but I couldn't find an image of it.



Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 09:23 AM 12/02/2017, you wrote:
I have another 50 feet of chain I would like to 
add to my existing chain for my ground 
tackle.  What is the feeling of the listers 
about using a link/ Â If I use a shackle it would bind in my anchor windless.


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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of our members. If you wish to make a 
contribution to offset our costs, please go 
to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Anchor chain

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I have another 50 feet of chain I would like to add to my existing chain
for my ground tackle.  What is the feeling of the listers about using a
link/  If I use a shackle it would bind in my anchor windless.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain cover

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

When one of my crew lost the cover overboard, I bought a new hawse pipe made of 
polished stainless steel on EBay for about $29US. The cap on this one is on a 
hinge and spring loaded so it stays in place (open the cap and slide it on the 
hinge and it props open for letting out or recovering chain).

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

 On Sep 21, 2014, at 17:03, Patrick Wesley via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 A stitch in time saves nine, amazing how valid are some of the old sayings. 
 If I had replaced the chain securing the anchor chain cover when I first 
 noticed it my crew would not have dropped it overboard while anchoring in 
 Suchia!
 
 Would anyone in the Victoria/Sidney BC area have any ideas about finding a 
 replacement? New one from the catalogues would likely require removal of the 
 vertical tube housing and rebedding of the new one.
 
 Thanks, Patrick
 
 CC 24, The Boat, Sidney BC
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Sep 16, 2014, at 8:36 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Burt,
 
 If you replace the attachment fitting, consider one with a shoulder.  A 
 simple eye bolt may not be able to withstand as much side load as a 
 shouldered eye bolt or eve nut.  
 
 From what you've described, there is some clearance on the underside of the 
 car.  Perhaps an eye nut bolted from underneath may work.  Look at this item:
 
 http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=36382engine=adwords!6456keyword=product_adgclid=CLz8pKyG5sACFSgV7AodOBIAxQ
 
 It comes in 1/4 (400 lbs SWL), 5/16 (800 lbs SWL), 3/8 inch (1320 lbs SWL).  
 I have one of these and its eye bolt equivalent in 1/2 inch installed in 
 Touche' masthead for attaching spinnaker halyard blocks.
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
 
 On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 10:08 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 I really have no issues with my traveler except the attachment point for 
 the mainsheet block. It is a 4:1 with dual end sheaves. I lubricated the 
 captive track rollers and sheaves when I had it apart. It adjusts easily 
 under a load. The adjusting line is continuous. I think the correct size 
 stainless eye bolt will fill the bill and keep my hard earned $$ in my 
 pocket to be used for more pressing things like a new AC electrical system 
 and an isolated starting battery, new house bank batteries and a 2-bank 
 charger.
 
  
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam 
 Salter via CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2014 2:04 AM
 To: CnC
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components
 
  
 
 ‎As an alternative, I replaced my traveler with Harken a few seasons ago. 
 
 The track has a T slot on the bottom so the bolts slide into any position 
 and use the existing holes from the original setup.
 
 High quality, possibly a bit more expensive than Garhauer, adjusts under 
 load, a great improvement over the original equipment.
 
  
 
 sam :-)
 
 CC 26 Liquorice 
 
 Ghost Lake Alberta 
 
  
 
 From: kirk sneddon via CnC-List
 
 Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 7:30 PM
 
 To: 'Paul Fountain'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 Reply To: kirk sneddon
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components
 
  
 
 Very happy with the quality and service from Garhauer.
 
  
 
 I also worked with Guido.  I replaced my traveler this spring. I sent them 
 my old track and they used it as a drill template, so installation was easy 
 with no new holes to drill.
 
  
 
 The Garhauer cars are low friction, and high quality. With the  increased 
 mechanical advantage and continuous line it was a major improvement for 
 modest sum.
 
  
 
 Kirk Sneddon
 
 CC 29 MK II
 
 Flying Cloud
 
  
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul 
 Fountain via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 9:07 AM
 To: Marek Dziedzic; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components
 
  
 
 Have a garhauer traveller ... Works great!
 
 Paul. :)
 
  
 
 
 On Sep 15, 2014, at 8:18 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I would second the idea of talking to Guido about the repairs.
 
  
 
 Or better yet, talking to him about replacing the traveller. Their new cars 
 are supposedly really good.
 
  
 
 Marek
 
  
 
 From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
 
 Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 10:15 PM
 
 To: Burt Stratton ; CnClist
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components
 
  
 
 Burt,
 
 You should have several options.  
 
 You might consider talking to Guido or Mark at Garhauer Marine.  They may 
 be able to make you a new and better car for a reasonable price.
 
 I'm assuming there are sheaves on the ends of the car?  How much room is 
 between the sheaves?  Enough to install a padeye with two fasteners?  That 
 would hold up to the loads better than a single point attachment system.
 
 Your description doesn't sound like a Harken car.  More like a Merriman or 
 a Schaefer.
 
  
 
 Dennis C.
 
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 
 

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain cover

[Patrick Wesley via CnC-List]

A stitch in time saves nine, amazing how valid are some of the old sayings. 
If I had replaced the chain securing the anchor chain cover when I first 
noticed it my crew would not have dropped it overboard while anchoring in 
Suchia!

Would anyone in the Victoria/Sidney BC area have any ideas about finding a 
replacement? New one from the catalogues would likely require removal of the 
vertical tube housing and rebedding of the new one.

Thanks, Patrick

CC 24, The Boat, Sidney BC

Sent from my iPad

 On Sep 16, 2014, at 8:36 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Burt,
 
 If you replace the attachment fitting, consider one with a shoulder.  A 
 simple eye bolt may not be able to withstand as much side load as a 
 shouldered eye bolt or eve nut.  
 
 From what you've described, there is some clearance on the underside of the 
 car.  Perhaps an eye nut bolted from underneath may work.  Look at this item:
 
 http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=36382engine=adwords!6456keyword=product_adgclid=CLz8pKyG5sACFSgV7AodOBIAxQ
 
 It comes in 1/4 (400 lbs SWL), 5/16 (800 lbs SWL), 3/8 inch (1320 lbs SWL).  
 I have one of these and its eye bolt equivalent in 1/2 inch installed in 
 Touche' masthead for attaching spinnaker halyard blocks.
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
 
 On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 10:08 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 I really have no issues with my traveler except the attachment point for the 
 mainsheet block. It is a 4:1 with dual end sheaves. I lubricated the captive 
 track rollers and sheaves when I had it apart. It adjusts easily under a 
 load. The adjusting line is continuous. I think the correct size stainless 
 eye bolt will fill the bill and keep my hard earned $$ in my pocket to be 
 used for more pressing things like a new AC electrical system and an 
 isolated starting battery, new house bank batteries and a 2-bank charger.
 
  
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam 
 Salter via CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2014 2:04 AM
 To: CnC
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components
 
  
 
 ‎As an alternative, I replaced my traveler with Harken a few seasons ago. 
 
 The track has a T slot on the bottom so the bolts slide into any position 
 and use the existing holes from the original setup.
 
 High quality, possibly a bit more expensive than Garhauer, adjusts under 
 load, a great improvement over the original equipment.
 
  
 
 sam :-)
 
 CC 26 Liquorice 
 
 Ghost Lake Alberta 
 
  
 
 From: kirk sneddon via CnC-List
 
 Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 7:30 PM
 
 To: 'Paul Fountain'; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 Reply To: kirk sneddon
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components
 
  
 
 Very happy with the quality and service from Garhauer.
 
  
 
 I also worked with Guido.  I replaced my traveler this spring. I sent them 
 my old track and they used it as a drill template, so installation was easy 
 with no new holes to drill.
 
  
 
 The Garhauer cars are low friction, and high quality. With the  increased 
 mechanical advantage and continuous line it was a major improvement for 
 modest sum.
 
  
 
 Kirk Sneddon
 
 CC 29 MK II
 
 Flying Cloud
 
  
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul 
 Fountain via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 9:07 AM
 To: Marek Dziedzic; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components
 
  
 
 Have a garhauer traveller ... Works great!
 
 Paul. :)
 
  
 
 
 On Sep 15, 2014, at 8:18 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 I would second the idea of talking to Guido about the repairs.
 
  
 
 Or better yet, talking to him about replacing the traveller. Their new cars 
 are supposedly really good.
 
  
 
 Marek
 
  
 
 From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
 
 Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 10:15 PM
 
 To: Burt Stratton ; CnClist
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components
 
  
 
 Burt,
 
 You should have several options.  
 
 You might consider talking to Guido or Mark at Garhauer Marine.  They may be 
 able to make you a new and better car for a reasonable price.
 
 I'm assuming there are sheaves on the ends of the car?  How much room is 
 between the sheaves?  Enough to install a padeye with two fasteners?  That 
 would hold up to the loads better than a single point attachment system.
 
 Your description doesn't sound like a Harken car.  More like a Merriman or a 
 Schaefer.
 
  
 
 Dennis C.
 
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 
 Mandeville, LA
 
  
 
 On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 8:08 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Took my salvage project to Newport this weekend. Beautiful sail down on 
 Saturday. Front rolled through Saturday night and tested my anchor and 
 ground tackle at the anchorage near Ida Lewis Yacht club. All worked fine, 
 thank you. Cozy first ever evening on the boat with the admiral. Very 
 enjoyable considering the stark 

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain cover

[Russ Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Patrick,

Try the Sidney Sailor exchange (or whatever they 
call the damn thing these days, humbug).

http://www.theboaters-exchange.com/

It might take some time wading through all the 
old stuff but I wouldn't be surprised if you find 
what you need. BTW, take a pencil rub of your 
deck pipe oval so you can match it.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

There comes a time in a man's life when he hears the call of the sea.
If the man has a brain in his head, he will hang 
up the phone immediately. -- Dave Barry



At 02:03 PM 21/09/2014, you wrote:
A stitch in time saves nine, amazing how valid 
are some of the old sayings. If I had replaced 
the chain securing the anchor chain cover when I 
first noticed it my crew would not have dropped 
it overboard while anchoring in Suchia!


Would anyone in the Victoria/Sidney BC area have 
any ideas about finding a replacement? New one 
from the catalogues would likely require removal 
of the vertical tube housing and rebedding of the new one.


Thanks, Patrick

CC 24, The Boat, Sidney BC

Sent from my iPad

On Sep 16, 2014, at 8:36 AM, Dennis C. via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:



Burt,

If you replace the attachment fitting, consider 
one with a shoulder.  A simple eye bolt may not 
be able to withstand as much side load as a shouldered eye bolt or eve nut.


From what you've described, there is some 
clearance on the underside of the 
car.  Perhaps an eye nut bolted from underneath may work.  Look at this item:


http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=36382engine=adwords!6456keyword=product_adgclid=CLz8pKyG5sACFSgV7AodOBIAxQhttp://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/product.do?part=36382engine=adwords!6456keyword=product_adgclid=CLz8pKyG5sACFSgV7AodOBIAxQ

It comes in 1/4 (400 lbs SWL), 5/16 (800 lbs 
SWL), 3/8 inch (1320 lbs SWL).  I have one of 
these and its eye bolt equivalent in 1/2 inch 
installed in Touche' masthead for attaching spinnaker halyard blocks.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 10:08 AM, Burt Stratton 
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


I really have no issues with my traveler except 
the attachment point for the mainsheet block. 
It is a 4:1 with dual end sheaves. I lubricated 
the captive track rollers and sheaves when I 
had it apart. It adjusts easily under a load. 
The adjusting line is continuous. I think the 
correct size stainless eye bolt will fill the 
bill and keep my hard earned $$ in my pocket to 
be used for more pressing things like a new AC 
electrical system and an isolated starting 
battery, new house bank batteries and a 2-bank charger.




From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam Salter via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2014 2:04 AM
To: CnC
Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components



‎As an alternative, I replaced my traveler with Harken a few seasons ago.

The track has a T slot on the bottom so the 
bolts slide into any position and use the 
existing holes from the original setup.


High quality, possibly a bit more expensive 
than Garhauer, adjusts under load, a great 
improvement over the original equipment.




sam :-)

CC 26 Liquorice

Ghost Lake Alberta



From: kirk sneddon via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 7:30 PM

To: 'Paul Fountain'; mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com

Reply To: kirk sneddon

Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components



Very happy with the quality and service from Garhauer.



I also worked with Guido.  I replaced my 
traveler this spring. I sent them my old track 
and they used it as a drill template, so 
installation was easy with no new holes to drill.




The Garhauer cars are low friction, and high 
quality. With the  increased mechanical 
advantage and continuous line it was a major improvement for modest sum.




Kirk Sneddon

CC 29 MK II

Flying Cloud



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Paul Fountain via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 9:07 AM
To: Marek Dziedzic; mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components



Have a garhauer traveller ... Works great!

Paul. :)




On Sep 15, 2014, at 8:18 AM, Marek Dziedzic 
via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comcnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


I would second the idea of talking to Guido about the repairs.



Or better yet, talking to him about replacing 
the traveller. Their new cars are supposedly really good.




Marek



From: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comDennis C. via CnC-List

Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 10:15 PM

To: mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.comBurt 
Stratton ; mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.comCnClist


Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components



Burt,

You should have several options.

You might consider talking to Guido or Mark at 
Garhauer Marine.  They may be able to make you 
a new and