Stus-List Plumbing

2022-05-23 Thread Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
Alera has that old grey hoses for fresh water.  I am installing a Raritan Fresh 
Head toilet that will require a connection to my pressurized water. Not sure 
when will and will not work with this old hose..  I picked this up.  Not sure 
if it will mate up. 

15MM METRIC SERIES QUICK CONNECT PLUMBING SYSTEM UNIONS, UNION - TEE

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/seatech-inc-15mm-metric-series-quick-connect-plumbing-system-adapters/2413-0815

Tom B
Typoed from my iPhone

Tom Buscaglia
Alera 1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
O 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660
Skype - thombusc




Re: Stus-List plumbing rant stuff does not fit

2019-06-10 Thread Bill via CnC-List
I recall coming across those same problems too. A couple of things. pool stores have some really neat stuff in them if you just go in them and browse around. The fittings,  they are more like 1 and 1/2 in then 1& 5/8. Also, I always use a heat gun. Really makes them easy to get on and off. also, tractor supply has some nice fittings. They have pretty durable nylon pieces for Farmers spray equipment and stuff so it's pretty tough. They also have what could be used as through hull strainers that look just as good as what I have seen in Marine storesBill ColemanOn Jun 10, 2019 8:03 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"  wrote:

The head plumbing got clogged up on our last trip. I could not fix it without removing some of the old hoses. As expected, they all had to be cut apart, nothing was going to come loose. I heaved it all in the
 dumpster and got some new hose and a 1.5 inch 90 degree elbow. No matter how tight I made the clamps, it ended up leaking. I took it back to West Marine and did some comparisons with other 1.5” fittings. Most of them are a bit too big and you can’t even get
 them on without heating the hose up and using a lot of force. Say they are all maybe 1.6 inches in diameter. The 90 degree fittings are more like 1.4 inches.
I ended up using a boat pole to fish the old plumbing back out of the dumpster and cutting the elbow out of that mess to use again.
Final part of the rant: The Y-Valve has a smooth fitting that is a bit tight and doesn’t leak, but you can get the hose back off. Why can’t they ALL be that way!
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I
 
Composting head looks better every day….


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Stus-List plumbing rant stuff does not fit

2019-06-10 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
The head plumbing got clogged up on our last trip. I could not fix it without 
removing some of the old hoses. As expected, they all had to be cut apart, 
nothing was going to come loose. I heaved it all in the dumpster and got some 
new hose and a 1.5 inch 90 degree elbow. No matter how tight I made the clamps, 
it ended up leaking. I took it back to West Marine and did some comparisons 
with other 1.5” fittings. Most of them are a bit too big and you can’t even get 
them on without heating the hose up and using a lot of force. Say they are all 
maybe 1.6 inches in diameter. The 90 degree fittings are more like 1.4 inches.
I ended up using a boat pole to fish the old plumbing back out of the dumpster 
and cutting the elbow out of that mess to use again.
Final part of the rant: The Y-Valve has a smooth fitting that is a bit tight 
and doesn’t leak, but you can get the hose back off. Why can’t they ALL be that 
way!
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

Composting head looks better every day….
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing

2019-03-27 Thread Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Hi Matt,
I realized that my old galley sink fixture was costing me a lot of water usage 
because there was a separate hot and cold knob on each side of the existing 
fixture, and I was always turning it on, leaving it running while I washed my 
hands, etc., then finally turning it off when I was done.  I really tried to 
close the taps quickly, but even then, as the valve heated up with hot water, 
its flow rate would change, leading to more adjustments.  

In the end, I just replaced it with this:  
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XV3PEKY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8=1
It required a larger single-center hole than the old one (1.5" vs. 1"), but 
that was easy to remedy with a dremel.  

It took a little over an hour to replace, and its now really nice to get the 
right temperature on & off with a single pull, not to mention I'm sure I'm 
saving a lot of water as I just get my hands wet, shut it off, soap, and then 
turn it on to rinse.
Unfortunately, it is hard to get to the underside of the faucet in the head of 
our 37/40+ due to the holding tank configuration.  If it was easy, I would 
replace that one as well.
Hoping you find this helpful,  

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 

On Wednesday, March 27, 2019, 10:23:53 AM EDT, David via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Matt...I use land based fixtures.   Cheaper and more choice for the CDO (chief 
decorating officer).


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Re: Stus-List Plumbing

2019-03-27 Thread David via CnC-List
Matt...I use land based fixtures.   Cheaper and more choice for the CDO (chief 
decorating officer).

Get Outlook for Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matt King via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, March 23, 2019 10:52:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matt King
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing

C 41.  With wet head.  The sink/shower fixtures are shot.

I need recommendations on replacement.

Thank you

Matt
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Stus-List Plumbing

2019-03-23 Thread Matt King via CnC-List
C 41.  With wet head.  The sink/shower fixtures are shot.

I need recommendations on replacement.

Thank you

Matt
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing help

2018-01-26 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
I love Flair-It!  Not sure they work on copper...

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Jan 26, 2018 4:50 PM, "Paul E via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

Another choice for connectors are Flair-It connectors.   They are
inexpensive, require no special tools, and easy to work with.I
purchased these connectors at an Ace Hardware store.

Take a look the write up on replacing the plumbing on my LF38.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/PressurizedWater

-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Jan 26, 2018, at 3:09 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2018 19:46:25 +
From: T power <sv_invic...@outlook.com>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing help
Message-ID:
<YQBPR0101MB1410F841F4215BBB5210E96F8FE00@YQBPR0101MB1410.
CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"


Hello everyone:
I have a bit of an issue on my 1973 C 30 Mark 1. my forward water tank
underneath the v-berth has two small pieces of copper pipe protruding from
the tank, originally it had a hose attached to it that would lead to the
pump and the faucets. I would like to change out the hose to PEX tubing,
but I cannot figure out what size pex fitting to use. I have tried 3/8 15mm
1/2 inch with no success. Has anyone ever tried this or have any
suggestions on what to do.
Any help is greatly appreciate it.

Cheers
Tom



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Re: Stus-List Plumbing help

2018-01-26 Thread Danny Haughey via CnC-List
you can also get Copper Tube x Pex Barb fittings and use the pex 
clamps.  It's a smaller, cleaner fitting in my opinon.


I'm about to switch my whole boat over to pex for the water supply

Danny


On 1/26/2018 4:49 PM, Paul E via CnC-List wrote:
Another choice for connectors are Flair-It connectors.   They are 
inexpensive, require no special tools, and easy to work with.    I 
purchased these connectors at an Ace Hardware store.


Take a look the write up on replacing the plumbing on my LF38.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/PressurizedWater

-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Jan 26, 2018, at 3:09 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2018 19:46:25 +
From: T power <sv_invic...@outlook.com <mailto:sv_invic...@outlook.com>>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>

Subject: Stus-List Plumbing help
Message-ID:
<yqbpr0101mb1410f841f4215bbb5210e96f8f...@yqbpr0101mb1410.canprd01.prod.outlook.com 
<mailto:yqbpr0101mb1410f841f4215bbb5210e96f8f...@yqbpr0101mb1410.canprd01.prod.outlook.com>>


Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hello everyone:
I have a bit of an issue on my 1973 C 30 Mark 1. my forward water 
tank underneath the v-berth has two small pieces of copper pipe 
protruding from the tank, originally it had a hose attached to it 
that would lead to the pump and the faucets. I would like to change 
out the hose to PEX tubing, but I cannot figure out what size pex 
fitting to use. I have tried 3/8 15mm 1/2 inch with no success. Has 
anyone ever tried this or have any suggestions on what to do.

Any help is greatly appreciate it.

Cheers
Tom




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Re: Stus-List Plumbing help

2018-01-26 Thread Paul E via CnC-List
Another choice for connectors are Flair-It connectors.   They are inexpensive, 
require no special tools, and easy to work with.I purchased these 
connectors at an Ace Hardware store.

Take a look the write up on replacing the plumbing on my LF38.

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/PressurizedWater 
<http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/PressurizedWater>

-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jan 26, 2018, at 3:09 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Fri, 26 Jan 2018 19:46:25 +
> From: T power <sv_invic...@outlook.com <mailto:sv_invic...@outlook.com>>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Plumbing help
> Message-ID:
>   
> <yqbpr0101mb1410f841f4215bbb5210e96f8f...@yqbpr0101mb1410.canprd01.prod.outlook.com
>  
> <mailto:yqbpr0101mb1410f841f4215bbb5210e96f8f...@yqbpr0101mb1410.canprd01.prod.outlook.com>>
>   
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Hello everyone:
> I have a bit of an issue on my 1973 C 30 Mark 1. my forward water tank 
> underneath the v-berth has two small pieces of copper pipe protruding from 
> the tank, originally it had a hose attached to it that would lead to the pump 
> and the faucets. I would like to change out the hose to PEX tubing, but I 
> cannot figure out what size pex fitting to use. I have tried 3/8 15mm 1/2 
> inch with no success. Has anyone ever tried this or have any suggestions on 
> what to do.
> Any help is greatly appreciate it.
> 
> Cheers
> Tom

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Re: Stus-List Plumbing help

2018-01-26 Thread David Miles via CnC-List
I have used these in the garden for water lines, and they will pop off when 
exposed to hard weather. Beware, and be sure to get good ones. My son is a 
plumber and swears by them, but his must have been  a better quality than the 
ones I bought.



Best regards,

David Miles



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: January-26-18 12:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Plumbing help



Lowe’s has a competitive fittings (the same principle, lower cost), as well. I 
don’t recall the name, but they work as well.



Marek



From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, January 26, 2018 14:55

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Joel Aronson

Subject: Re: Stus-List Plumbing help



Look at the sharkbite fittings.  They seem to work on everything.  Any Home 
Depot/Lowes/hardware store should have them



Joel





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Re: Stus-List Plumbing help

2018-01-26 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
Lowe’s has a competitive fittings (the same principle, lower cost), as well. I 
don’t recall the name, but they work as well.

Marek

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2018 14:55
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Plumbing help

Look at the sharkbite fittings.  They seem to work on everything.  Any Home 
Depot/Lowes/hardware store should have them

Joel

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Re: Stus-List Plumbing help

2018-01-26 Thread David Knecht via CnC-List
A second on Sharkbite.  I used them for the first time on a home plumbing 
project last weekend and they worked perfectly.  I had to disassemble some 
older fittings, which came apart easily even without the special tool 
(adjustable wrench trick on YouTube).  Cut Pex with hacksaw rather than special 
tool.  Re-assembly had no leaks at new or old sharkbite fitting.  Learned an 
important lesson from lots leaks at threaded PVC fittings.  Don’t use teflon 
tape on threaded fittings!  Use threadseal compound (Rectorseal).  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Jan 26, 2018, at 2:54 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Look at the sharkbite fittings.  They seem to work on everything.  Any Home 
> Depot/Lowes/hardware store should have them
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Fri, Jan 26, 2018 at 2:46 PM, T power via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Hello everyone:
> I have a bit of an issue on my 1973 C 30 Mark 1. my forward water tank 
> underneath the v-berth has two small pieces of copper pipe protruding from 
> the tank, originally it had a hose attached to it that would lead to the pump 
> and the faucets. I would like to change out the hose to PEX tubing, but I 
> cannot figure out what size pex fitting to use. I have tried 3/8 15mm 1/2 
> inch with no success. Has anyone ever tried this or have any suggestions on 
> what to do. 
> Any help is greatly appreciate it.
> 
> Cheers
> Tom
> 
> Get Outlook for Android 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Plumbing help

2018-01-26 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Look at the sharkbite fittings.  They seem to work on everything.  Any Home
Depot/Lowes/hardware store should have them

Joel

On Fri, Jan 26, 2018 at 2:46 PM, T power via CnC-List  wrote:

> Hello everyone:
> I have a bit of an issue on my 1973 C 30 Mark 1. my forward water tank
> underneath the v-berth has two small pieces of copper pipe protruding from
> the tank, originally it had a hose attached to it that would lead to the
> pump and the faucets. I would like to change out the hose to PEX tubing,
> but I cannot figure out what size pex fitting to use. I have tried 3/8 15mm
> 1/2 inch with no success. Has anyone ever tried this or have any
> suggestions on what to do.
> Any help is greatly appreciate it.
>
> Cheers
> Tom
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Plumbing help

2018-01-26 Thread T power via CnC-List
Hello everyone:
I have a bit of an issue on my 1973 C 30 Mark 1. my forward water tank 
underneath the v-berth has two small pieces of copper pipe protruding from the 
tank, originally it had a hose attached to it that would lead to the pump and 
the faucets. I would like to change out the hose to PEX tubing, but I cannot 
figure out what size pex fitting to use. I have tried 3/8 15mm 1/2 inch with no 
success. Has anyone ever tried this or have any suggestions on what to do.
Any help is greatly appreciate it.

Cheers
Tom

Get Outlook for Android

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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-27 Thread RANDY via CnC-List
Same. We flush with fresh water from the forward tank on Grenadine, instead of 
pumping in lake water full of E.coli and decomposing organic matter. No smells, 
the head thru-hull remains closed, and I don't have to worry about the bowl 
overflowing. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Allen Miles via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: "CNC" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: "Allen Miles" <abmile...@gmail.com> 
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2016 6:40:59 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related 

Tackled the problem differently on Septima. I installed a fresh water bladder 
tank to feed the head. No smells from decaying whatever ( reason the Admiral 
wanted fresh water feed), no chance for overflow on port tacks, no sea water in 
the boat (that thru hull is closed all the time. Use tank to provide lateral 
trim. 

Allen Miles 
S/v Septima 30-2 
Hampton, VA 

On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:29 PM, robert via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 


Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with sea 
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve' or the 
valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a faulty 
valve in the 'shut off' switch. 

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the problem.simplest 
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100. 

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old pump, 
4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3 hoses.one of 
the easiest boat jobs I have experienced. 

FYi for anyone having a similar problem. 

Rob Abbott 

AZURA 

C 32 - 84 

Halifax, N.S. 



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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-27 Thread Tim Sippel via CnC-List
Yup ,
Binnacle for new pump and add a spare joker valve and you are at  the free 
shipping point !

Tim

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 3:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert <robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related


Dennis:

The Binnacle had the rebuild kit but it cost almost as much as a new 
pump..and the new pump seemed a breeze to install, which it was.

Rob Abbott

On 2016-07-26 4:17 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Bob,
Glad you went the new pump assembly route.  I've been advocating that over a 
rebuild kit for years.
I remove and clean the joker valve on my Jabsco compact a couple times a year.  
It's a 10 minute job.  I also flush with vinegar to reduce scale build up also. 
 It's a frequent job.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 1:29 PM, robert via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with sea 
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve'  or the 
valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a faulty 
valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the problem.simplest 
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old pump, 
4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3 hoses.one of 
the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-27 Thread Allen Miles via CnC-List
Tackled the problem differently on Septima.  I installed a fresh water
bladder tank to feed the head.  No smells from decaying whatever ( reason
the Admiral wanted fresh water feed), no chance for overflow on port tacks,
no sea water in the boat (that thru hull is closed all the time.  Use tank
to provide lateral trim.

Allen Miles
S/v Septima  30-2
Hampton, VA

On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:29 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with
> sea water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker
> valve'  or the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other,
> probably a faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.
>
> Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
> problem.simplest way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump
> assembly for $100.
>
> One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
> pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
> hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.
>
> FYi for anyone having a similar problem.
>
> Rob Abbott
>
> AZURA
>
> C 32 - 84
>
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-27 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
I replaced the pump on my head (should it be in my head? (;-)) and even my wife 
finds it so much better. She says that it was money well spent.

In Ottawa, it was even better $90 for the pump, $85 for the rebuild kit.  A no 
brainer.

Marek

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 16:07
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Yep. My experience has been the rebuild kit is about $70 and the pump assembly 
around $100. However the rebuild is about 1.5-2 hours and the pump assembly 
replacement is about 30-45 minutes. 


Amazing how many of my customers still wanted the rebuild kit. Even when I told 
them my labor rate would make the total price more.


Dennis C.


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:29 PM, robert via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

  Dennis:

  The Binnacle had the rebuild kit but it cost almost as much as a new 
pump..and the new pump seemed a breeze to install, which it was.

  Rob Abbott




  On 2016-07-26 4:17 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Bob,


Glad you went the new pump assembly route. I've been advocating that over a 
rebuild kit for years.


I remove and clean the joker valve on my Jabsco compact a couple times a 
year. It's a 10 minute job. I also flush with vinegar to reduce scale build up 
also. It's a frequent job.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 1:29 PM, robert via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

  Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with 
sea water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve' or 
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a 
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

  Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the 
problem.simplest way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump 
assembly for $100.

  One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old 
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3 
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

  FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

  Rob Abbott

  AZURA

  C 32 - 84

  Halifax, N.S.



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  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!



 

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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
Yep.  My experience has been the rebuild kit is about $70 and the pump
assembly around $100.  However the rebuild is about 1.5-2 hours and the
pump assembly replacement is about 30-45 minutes.

Amazing how many of my customers still wanted the rebuild kit.  Even when I
told them my labor rate would make the total price more.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:29 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Dennis:
>
> The Binnacle had the rebuild kit but it cost almost as much as a new
> pump..and the new pump seemed a breeze to install, which it was.
>
> Rob Abbott
>
> On 2016-07-26 4:17 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Bob,
>
> Glad you went the new pump assembly route.  I've been advocating that over
> a rebuild kit for years.
>
> I remove and clean the joker valve on my Jabsco compact a couple times a
> year.  It's a 10 minute job.  I also flush with vinegar to reduce scale
> build up also.  It's a frequent job.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 1:29 PM, robert via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with
>> sea water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker
>> valve'  or the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other,
>> probably a faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.
>>
>> Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
>> problem.simplest way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump
>> assembly for $100.
>>
>> One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
>> pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
>> hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.
>>
>> FYi for anyone having a similar problem.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>>
>> AZURA
>>
>> C 32 - 84
>>
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread robert via CnC-List
And a whole new pump assembly contains a new 'joker valve' (approx. $17) 
which you don't get with a $70 rebuild kit.


It was a 'no brainer'.

Rob


On 2016-07-26 5:00 PM, Fred Hazzard wrote:


You did good.  A rebuild kit is about $70 and pita.

Fred


On Jul 26, 2016 12:24 PM, "robert" <robertabb...@eastlink.ca 
<mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>> wrote:


Fred:

There are only two logical ways water can fill the bowel, I think.

And a faulty 'joker valve' in my case would not have caused my
bowel to fill.  Just to be sure it was not the 'joker valve', I
closed the thru hull for the discharge but not the 'water intake'
to the head, and the bowel would fillonly on port tack.

If I opened the discharge thru hull but closed the 'water intake
thru hull', the bowel would not fill with water.

So I came to the conclusion, it was a faulty value/seal/O ring
etc. in the pump allowing sea water to enter the bowel.

Did I waste $90?

Rob Abbott

PS:  My discharge hose goes to a Y valve mounted high on the
starboard side under the V-berth to allow discharge to either the
holding tank or overboard.



On 2016-07-26 4:03 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:

I have fixed similar problems with new joker valve for less than
$10.  Easy to install by removing the pump body with 4 self
tapping screws. While you have pump off it is a good time to
clean and lubricate the pump.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 11:40 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Did it fix the original problem?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and
overflowing with sea
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty
'choker valve'  or
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the
other, probably a
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
problem.simplest
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly
for $100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3
hoses from old
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place,
connect the 3
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



___

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members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions
are greatly appreciated!


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members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our
costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

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like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All 
Contributions are greatly appreciated!




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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread Fred Hazzard via CnC-List
You did good.  A rebuild kit is about $70 and pita.

Fred

On Jul 26, 2016 12:24 PM, "robert" <robertabb...@eastlink.ca> wrote:

> Fred:
>
> There are only two logical ways water can fill the bowel, I think.
>
> And a faulty 'joker valve' in my case would not have caused my bowel to
> fill.  Just to be sure it was not the 'joker valve', I closed the thru hull
> for the discharge but not the 'water intake' to the head, and the bowel
> would fillonly on port tack.
>
> If I opened the discharge thru hull but closed the 'water intake thru
> hull', the bowel would not fill with water.
>
> So I came to the conclusion, it was a faulty value/seal/O ring etc. in the
> pump allowing sea water to enter the bowel.
>
> Did I waste $90?
>
> Rob Abbott
>
> PS:  My discharge hose goes to a Y valve mounted high on the starboard
> side under the V-berth to allow discharge to either the holding tank or
> overboard.
>
>
>
> On 2016-07-26 4:03 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have fixed similar problems with new joker valve for less than $10.
> Easy to install by removing the pump body with 4 self tapping screws. While
> you have pump off it is a good time to clean and lubricate the pump.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 11:40 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Did it fix the original problem?
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: robert
>> Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related
>>
>> Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with
>> sea
>> water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve'
>> or
>> the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably
>> a
>> faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.
>>
>> Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
>> problem.simplest
>> way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.
>>
>> One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
>> pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
>> hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.
>>
>> FYi for anyone having a similar problem.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>>
>> AZURA
>>
>> C 32 - 84
>>
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions
>> are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
Interesting!
"I make sure I have the pump handle set right next to the closed position
detent but I don't engage it. Leaving it fully locked puts pressure on the
rubber piston pushing it against a small ridge and if you leave it like
that for a long period will permanently indent the rubber seal area and
cause it to leak."

We use our toilet very infrequently. If we're at the marina we use the
marina toilets (unless it's the middle of the night). When we had the boat
in Toronto we mostly NEVER used it with the exception of longer cruises or
weekends. So, very infrequent use. I figured that the infrequent use was
part of the culprit of our failing pump (at only 4 years old with minimal
use seems a disappointment) - so yeah, the above is very handy info.

Thanks!

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related - flood from toilet

2016-07-26 Thread Dave Syer via CnC-List
Second that.  Also, the "wet bowl" position on the flush valve should be
called "wet boat" (if forgotten).

Dave



Message: 3
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2016 15:06:19 -0400
From: David Paine <paineda...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related
Message-ID:
<cantme37vojbtmfzo8chdvpespt1k7remon_bcsgwb_b+vua...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Just for the record, you do not want to be dependent on the head pump to
keep your boat afloat as the valves in these things can and do fail.  Sea
water overflowing the bowl probably means that there is a siphon between
the head and the though hull (or worse).   Replacing the pump just delays
sinking until it fails.  The two solutions are a high loop with a siphon
break or one can (as I do) always close the through-hull when finished your
ablutions. Just say'n.
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Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Hi Rob,

You did it right. I rebuilt mine twice and had to replace the whole 
assembly shortly after the 2nd rebuild as the plastic holding the selector 
valve was worn.. They may be good for 1 rebuild but for me and our usage 
(Typically spending weekends with a family of 4) it's just not worth 
fooling with to save 15 - 30 bucks. Next time I just buy a whole new 
assembly. 

Couple things I learned: 

 - When sailing make sure the selector is on the "black" side and the pump 
in the locked position as it the to official "closed" setup that prevents 
spills even with heavy heeling with the through hull open (Safest is just 
to close it between uses though) 

- Here's the kicker:  However, when leaving the boat (With all through 
hulls closed)or when just not using the head for a while,  I make sure I 
have the pump handle set right next to the closed position detent but I 
don't engage it. Leaving it fully locked puts pressure on the rubber 
piston pushing it against a small ridge and if you leave it like that for 
a long period will permanently indent the rubber seal area and cause it to 
leak.  Of course the through hull has to be closed.  So far there are no 
smells even after a week or so in the hot Georgia summer and the pump 
works well. 


-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA






Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related
Message-ID: <bde63b9b-db98-b035-264a-358838062...@eastlink.ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with 
sea water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker 
valve'  or the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the 
other, probably a faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the 
problem.simplest way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco 
pump assembly for $100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from 
old pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3 
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.
Regards



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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread robert via CnC-List

Dennis:

The Binnacle had the rebuild kit but it cost almost as much as a new 
pump..and the new pump seemed a breeze to install, which it was.


Rob Abbott


On 2016-07-26 4:17 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Bob,

Glad you went the new pump assembly route.  I've been advocating that 
over a rebuild kit for years.


I remove and clean the joker valve on my Jabsco compact a couple times 
a year.  It's a 10 minute job.  I also flush with vinegar to reduce 
scale build up also.  It's a frequent job.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 1:29 PM, robert via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing
with sea water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty
'choker valve'  or the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be
one or the other, probably a faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
problem.simplest way to address it was to get a whole new
Jabsco pump assembly for $100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses
from old pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place,
connect the 3 hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have
experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



___

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If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by
donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

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Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread robert via CnC-List

Fred:

There are only two logical ways water can fill the bowel, I think.

And a faulty 'joker valve' in my case would not have caused my bowel to 
fill.  Just to be sure it was not the 'joker valve', I closed the thru 
hull for the discharge but not the 'water intake' to the head, and the 
bowel would fillonly on port tack.


If I opened the discharge thru hull but closed the 'water intake thru 
hull', the bowel would not fill with water.


So I came to the conclusion, it was a faulty value/seal/O ring etc. in 
the pump allowing sea water to enter the bowel.


Did I waste $90?

Rob Abbott

PS:  My discharge hose goes to a Y valve mounted high on the starboard 
side under the V-berth to allow discharge to either the holding tank or 
overboard.




On 2016-07-26 4:03 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:
I have fixed similar problems with new joker valve for less than $10.  
Easy to install by removing the pump body with 4 self tapping screws. 
While you have pump off it is a good time to clean and lubricate the 
pump.


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 11:40 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Did it fix the original problem?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing
with sea
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker
valve'  or
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other,
probably a
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
problem.simplest
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for
$100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses
from old
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



___

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If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions
are greatly appreciated!


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If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by
donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread Ken via CnC-List

 
Glad this fixed it for you. SOP for my head is closing the seawater-in
valve after each use (I do not have a high loop or anti-siphon valve).
I once left seawater-in open, relying on the dry/flush valve built in
to the pump to keep water from coming in, and after a few hours the
water level in the bowl was the same as the water level outside the
hull! I have sense rebuilt the head, but always open and close the
value each "sitting" - belt and suspenders…
 
I also added a small Jabsco inline filter this spring to keep hard and
soft debris out of the pump and bowl. With a plastic bore in the pump
this should extend the life of the pump.
 
Ken
 
C 33-1
 
 
On Tue, 26 Jul 2016 15:48:06 -0300, robert via CnC-List  wrote:

  Yes, took the boat for a sail as soon as the new pump was
installed.15% to 20% heel on both tacks.dry 'bowel'.

In fact, when I emptied the bowel of water (dry bowel switch) with the
old pump, water would seep back into the bowel to probably 'water
level' or 'sea level'. Now with the new pump, the bowel is virtually
dry and stays that way.just a few ounces of water the new pump can't
possibly pick up and discharge.

Well worth the investment and effort.

Rob Abbott

On 2016-07-26 3:40 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List wrote:

Did it fix the original problem?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with sea
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve' or
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the problem.simplest
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!


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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
Bob,

Glad you went the new pump assembly route.  I've been advocating that over
a rebuild kit for years.

I remove and clean the joker valve on my Jabsco compact a couple times a
year.  It's a 10 minute job.  I also flush with vinegar to reduce scale
build up also.  It's a frequent job.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 1:29 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with
> sea water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker
> valve'  or the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other,
> probably a faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.
>
> Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
> problem.simplest way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump
> assembly for $100.
>
> One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
> pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
> hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.
>
> FYi for anyone having a similar problem.
>
> Rob Abbott
>
> AZURA
>
> C 32 - 84
>
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread David Paine via CnC-List
Just for the record, you do not want to be dependent on the head pump to
keep your boat afloat as the valves in these things can and do fail.  Sea
water overflowing the bowl probably means that there is a siphon between
the head and the though hull (or worse).   Replacing the pump just delays
sinking until it fails.  The two solutions are a high loop with a siphon
break or one can (as I do) always close the through-hull when finished your
ablutions. Just say'n.

On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:56 PM, robert via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Stevan:
>
> This was the replacement part I bought:
>
>
> http://ca.binnacle.com/Plumbing-&-Pumps-Toilets/c31_209/p6899/ITT-TWIST-&-LOCK-TOILET-PUMP-ASSEMBLY-29040-3000/product_info.html
>
>
> Rob Abbott
>
>
>
>
> On 2016-07-26 3:50 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I have a similar problem with my jabsco head. It was a brand new
> replacement for the original that I installed about 4 years ago. The other
> night we were sleeping aboard and I got up in the middle of the night for a
> bio break and lo and behold, the bowl was full! Right to the rim but not
> overflowing! Lucky me, I thought, that it didn't sink the boat!
>
> Well being the middle of the night my head wasn't totally screwed on. Of
> course, the bowl had been overflowing quite a bit and the bilge was full to
> the brim! (I had turned off the bilge pump earlier that day for some
> reason)... anyway .. long story short, thanks for recounting your
> experience. I now know what I have to do and what will be involved so I'm a
> whole lot less worried about it :)
>
> Replacing the head and hoses was the filthiest job I've ever done and I'm
> glad not to have to repeat (much) of it.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:40 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Did it fix the original problem?
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: robert
>> Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related
>>
>> Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with
>> sea
>> water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve'
>> or
>> the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably
>> a
>> faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.
>>
>> Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
>> problem.simplest
>> way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.
>>
>> One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
>> pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
>> hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.
>>
>> FYi for anyone having a similar problem.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>>
>> AZURA
>>
>> C 32 - 84
>>
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions
>> are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread robert via CnC-List

Stevan:

If you decide to replace the pump, tip..make sure you have a 'long' 
Philips screwdriver or a 'very short' one or better still, and 'offset 
Philips screwdriver' to access one of the four screws.the bottom 
right screw is a tight fit to get a regular screwdriver down to the 
screw between the pump and the wall.


Naturally, I found that out the hard way..left my 'offset Philips 
screwdriver' at home and didn't have a very long or very short one on 
the boat.


Rob Abbott





On 2016-07-26 3:50 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
I have a similar problem with my jabsco head. It was a brand new 
replacement for the original that I installed about 4 years ago. The 
other night we were sleeping aboard and I got up in the middle of the 
night for a bio break and lo and behold, the bowl was full! Right to 
the rim but not overflowing! Lucky me, I thought, that it didn't sink 
the boat!


Well being the middle of the night my head wasn't totally screwed on. 
Of course, the bowl had been overflowing quite a bit and the bilge 
was full to the brim! (I had turned off the bilge pump earlier that 
day for some reason)... anyway .. long story short, thanks for 
recounting your experience. I now know what I have to do and what 
will be involved so I'm a whole lot less worried about it :)


Replacing the head and hoses was the filthiest job I've ever done and 
I'm glad not to have to repeat (much) of it.


Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:40 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Did it fix the original problem?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and
overflowing with sea
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker
valve'  or
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other,
probably a
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
problem.simplest
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for
$100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses
from old
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



___

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If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions
are greatly appreciated!


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donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!




___

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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread Fred Hazzard via CnC-List
I have fixed similar problems with new joker valve for less than $10.  Easy
to install by removing the pump body with 4 self tapping screws. While you
have pump off it is a good time to clean and lubricate the pump.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 11:40 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Did it fix the original problem?
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert
> Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related
>
> Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with sea
> water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve'  or
> the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a
> faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.
>
> Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
> problem.simplest
> way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.
>
> One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
> pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
> hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.
>
> FYi for anyone having a similar problem.
>
> Rob Abbott
>
> AZURA
>
> C 32 - 84
>
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread robert via CnC-List

Stevan:

This was the replacement part I bought:

http://ca.binnacle.com/Plumbing-&-Pumps-Toilets/c31_209/p6899/ITT-TWIST-&-LOCK-TOILET-PUMP-ASSEMBLY-29040-3000/product_info.html


Rob Abbott




On 2016-07-26 3:50 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List wrote:
I have a similar problem with my jabsco head. It was a brand new 
replacement for the original that I installed about 4 years ago. The 
other night we were sleeping aboard and I got up in the middle of the 
night for a bio break and lo and behold, the bowl was full! Right to 
the rim but not overflowing! Lucky me, I thought, that it didn't sink 
the boat!


Well being the middle of the night my head wasn't totally screwed on. 
Of course, the bowl had been overflowing quite a bit and the bilge was 
full to the brim! (I had turned off the bilge pump earlier that day 
for some reason)... anyway .. long story short, thanks for recounting 
your experience. I now know what I have to do and what will be 
involved so I'm a whole lot less worried about it :)


Replacing the head and hoses was the filthiest job I've ever done and 
I'm glad not to have to repeat (much) of it.


Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:40 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Did it fix the original problem?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
    Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing
with sea
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker
valve'  or
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other,
probably a
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
problem.simplest
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for
$100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses
from old
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
Contributions
are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by
donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


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greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List
I have a similar problem with my jabsco head. It was a brand new
replacement for the original that I installed about 4 years ago. The other
night we were sleeping aboard and I got up in the middle of the night for a
bio break and lo and behold, the bowl was full! Right to the rim but not
overflowing! Lucky me, I thought, that it didn't sink the boat!

Well being the middle of the night my head wasn't totally screwed on. Of
course, the bowl had been overflowing quite a bit and the bilge was full to
the brim! (I had turned off the bilge pump earlier that day for some
reason)... anyway .. long story short, thanks for recounting your
experience. I now know what I have to do and what will be involved so I'm a
whole lot less worried about it :)

Replacing the head and hoses was the filthiest job I've ever done and I'm
glad not to have to repeat (much) of it.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Tue, Jul 26, 2016 at 2:40 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Did it fix the original problem?
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert
> Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related
>
> Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with sea
> water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve'  or
> the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a
> faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.
>
> Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the
> problem.simplest
> way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.
>
> One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
> pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
> hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.
>
> FYi for anyone having a similar problem.
>
> Rob Abbott
>
> AZURA
>
> C 32 - 84
>
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread robert via CnC-List
Yes, took the boat for a sail as soon as the new pump was 
installed.15% to 20% heel on both tacks.dry 'bowel'.


In fact, when I emptied the bowel of water (dry bowel switch) with the 
old pump, water would seep back into the bowel to probably 'water 
level'  or 'sea level'.  Now with the new pump, the bowel is virtually 
dry and stays that way.just a few ounces of water the new pump can't 
possibly pick up and discharge.


Well worth the investment and effort.

Rob Abbott



On 2016-07-26 3:40 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List wrote:

Did it fix the original problem?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with sea
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve'  or
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the problem.simplest
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!



___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Re: Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread Pete Shelquist via CnC-List
Did it fix the original problem?

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2016 1:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing Related

Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with sea
water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker valve'  or
the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the other, probably a
faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.

Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the problem.simplest
way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco pump assembly for $100.

One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from old
pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.

FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
are greatly appreciated!


___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


Stus-List Plumbing Related

2016-07-26 Thread robert via CnC-List
Recently, on port tack, my 'head bowl' was filling and overflowing with 
sea water.wasn't completely sure whether it was a faulty 'choker 
valve'  or the valve in the 'shut off' leverhad to be one or the 
other, probably a faulty valve in the 'shut off' switch.


Trip to Binnacle to check out possible solutions to the 
problem.simplest way to address it was to get a whole new Jabsco 
pump assembly for $100.


One hour labor in total install new pump. disconnect 3 hoses from 
old pump, 4 screws in the base, screw new pump into place, connect the 3 
hoses.one of the easiest boat jobs I have experienced.


FYi for anyone having a similar problem.

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

2015-10-31 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Its a Jabsco diaphram pump with off the shelf fittings.  Taje the parts to
your favorite hardware store and find direct replacements.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Saturday, October 31, 2015, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Hi terry,
>
> Could not see a link to the pic, but send me one directly if you wish.
>
> My 33ii has no such fitting downstream of the pressure water pump, and my
> plumbing looks to be original.
> It may be that a PO installed that (it sounds like a check valve) to keep
> the pump from cycling as the downstream side lost pressure.  The system
> works but can  be a bit quirky.  You may not need the broken part.
>
> Fwiw the pump on my 33ii is a flojet 4405.
>
>
> http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C51%7C2234226%7C2234231=151034
>
>
> Dave
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> >
> > --
> >
> > Message: 7
> > Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 16:27:51 -0900
> > From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com <javascript:;>>
> > To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <javascript:;>>
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List plumbing problem
> > Message-ID:
> >   <CA+zaCRA-mkV8=D1N=-xqx2yxmqwxx7v3yzhnepofkpkb24h...@mail.gmail.com
> <javascript:;>>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Hey Terry,
> >
> > Sounds like you're new to the list.  Welcome.  The plumbing systems on
> our
> > boats are varied in nature and not particularly C specific.  Your best
> > bet is to get the pump specifics (make, model, serial) and look for a
> > discharge check valve part from the manufacturer.  If you don't have any
> > luck get back to us with the specs and maybe we will be more lucky.
> >
> > Warm regards,
> >
> > Josh Muckley
> > S /V Sea Hawk
> > 1989 C 37+
> > Solomons, MD
> > On Oct 30, 2015 9:05 PM, "Terry Pearson via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com <javascript:;>>
> > wrote:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> Hello all, first, I own a 1986 C 33 MK2, while winterizing my boat, I
> >> found a water leak on the discharge side of my potable water pump. The
> >> fitting between the pump and the elbow was cracked. I tried to unscrew
> the
> >> fitting and the theads snapped off in the pump housing. i haven?t tried
> >> yet, but am pretty certain I can use an ease out to get the remaining
> >> treads out of the pump. The problem I am having is I can not find the
> >> replacement part, or even know what it is called. Its a a white plastic
> >> fitting, male threads on both ends with a ball check valve built into
> the
> >> fitting. any help would be greatly appreciated.
> >>
> >>
> >> Terry Pearson
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >>
> >> Email address:
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <javascript:;>
> >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> >> bottom of page at:
> >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >>
> >> Email address:
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <javascript:;>
> >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> >> bottom of page at:
> >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> > -- next part --
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL: <
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20151030/fc4dfe74/attachment-0001.html
> >
> >
> >
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com <javascript:;>
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

2015-10-31 Thread Dave via CnC-List
Hi terry,  
 
Could not see a link to the pic, but send me one directly if you wish.

My 33ii has no such fitting downstream of the pressure water pump, and my 
plumbing looks to be original.
It may be that a PO installed that (it sounds like a check valve) to keep the 
pump from cycling as the downstream side lost pressure.  The system works but 
can  be a bit quirky.  You may not need the broken part.

Dave


Sent from my iPad

> 
> --
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 16:27:51 -0900
> From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
> To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List plumbing problem
> Message-ID:
><CA+zaCRA-mkV8=D1N=-xqx2yxmqwxx7v3yzhnepofkpkb24h...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hey Terry,
> 
> Sounds like you're new to the list.  Welcome.  The plumbing systems on our
> boats are varied in nature and not particularly C specific.  Your best
> bet is to get the pump specifics (make, model, serial) and look for a
> discharge check valve part from the manufacturer.  If you don't have any
> luck get back to us with the specs and maybe we will be more lucky.
> 
> Warm regards,
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S /V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Oct 30, 2015 9:05 PM, "Terry Pearson via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> 
>> 
>> Hello all, first, I own a 1986 C 33 MK2, while winterizing my boat, I
>> found a water leak on the discharge side of my potable water pump. The
>> fitting between the pump and the elbow was cracked. I tried to unscrew the
>> fitting and the theads snapped off in the pump housing. i haven?t tried
>> yet, but am pretty certain I can use an ease out to get the remaining
>> treads out of the pump. The problem I am having is I can not find the
>> replacement part, or even know what it is called. Its a a white plastic
>> fitting, male threads on both ends with a ball check valve built into the
>> fitting. any help would be greatly appreciated.
>> 
>> 
>> Terry Pearson
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

2015-10-31 Thread Dave via CnC-List
Hi terry,  

Could not see a link to the pic, but send me one directly if you wish.

My 33ii has no such fitting downstream of the pressure water pump, and my 
plumbing looks to be original.
It may be that a PO installed that (it sounds like a check valve) to keep the 
pump from cycling as the downstream side lost pressure.  The system works but 
can  be a bit quirky.  You may not need the broken part.

Fwiw the pump on my 33ii is a flojet 4405.

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C51%7C2234226%7C2234231=151034


Dave


Sent from my iPad

> 
> --
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 16:27:51 -0900
> From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
> To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List plumbing problem
> Message-ID:
>   <CA+zaCRA-mkV8=D1N=-xqx2yxmqwxx7v3yzhnepofkpkb24h...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hey Terry,
> 
> Sounds like you're new to the list.  Welcome.  The plumbing systems on our
> boats are varied in nature and not particularly C specific.  Your best
> bet is to get the pump specifics (make, model, serial) and look for a
> discharge check valve part from the manufacturer.  If you don't have any
> luck get back to us with the specs and maybe we will be more lucky.
> 
> Warm regards,
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S /V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Oct 30, 2015 9:05 PM, "Terry Pearson via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> 
>> 
>> Hello all, first, I own a 1986 C 33 MK2, while winterizing my boat, I
>> found a water leak on the discharge side of my potable water pump. The
>> fitting between the pump and the elbow was cracked. I tried to unscrew the
>> fitting and the theads snapped off in the pump housing. i haven?t tried
>> yet, but am pretty certain I can use an ease out to get the remaining
>> treads out of the pump. The problem I am having is I can not find the
>> replacement part, or even know what it is called. Its a a white plastic
>> fitting, male threads on both ends with a ball check valve built into the
>> fitting. any help would be greatly appreciated.
>> 
>> 
>> Terry Pearson
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

2015-10-31 Thread Terry via CnC-List
Here is a pic of the part, it is the white coupler on top of pump. I'm going to 
the boat this weekend and try to find make and model on the pump 

Thanks 
Terry Pearson
1896 C 33 MKII 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 30, 2015, at 9:28 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> If I may add, take pictures and make them available (DropBox, Google+, 
> OneDrive, whatever is your favourite place to share pictures). It would be 
> substantially easier to figure out what you need if others could see what is 
> broken.
>  
> Be aware that a lot of marine plumbing is common with the RVs; so you may 
> have luck visiting a local RV place (with the broken part in hand). Don’t 
> count that any fittings from a hardware store would work (different threads, 
> different diameters).
>  
> Good luck
>  
> Marek Dziedzic
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
> Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: October-30-15 21:28
> To: C List
> Cc: Josh Muckley
> Subject: Re: Stus-List plumbing problem
>  
> Hey Terry,
> 
> Sounds like you're new to the list.  Welcome.  The plumbing systems on our 
> boats are varied in nature and not particularly C specific.  Your best bet 
> is to get the pump specifics (make, model, serial) and look for a discharge 
> check valve part from the manufacturer.  If you don't have any luck get back 
> to us with the specs and maybe we will be more lucky.
> 
> Warm regards,
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S /V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
>  
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

2015-10-31 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
I would eat my words and I would suggest that these fittings look very much 
like the hardware store plumbing parts.??

 

Marek

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Terry via 
CnC-List
Sent: October-31-15 05:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Terry
Subject: Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

 

Here is a pic of the part, it is the white coupler on top of pump. I'm going to 
the boat this weekend and try to find make and model on the pump 
image1.JPG
Thanks 

Terry Pearson

1896 C 33 MKII 

Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 30, 2015, at 9:28 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

If I may add, take pictures and make them available (DropBox, Google+, 
OneDrive, whatever is your favourite place to share pictures). It would be 
substantially easier to figure out what you need if others could see what is 
broken.

 

Be aware that a lot of marine plumbing is common with the RVs; so you may have 
luck visiting a local RV place (with the broken part in hand). Don’t count that 
any fittings from a hardware store would work (different threads, different 
diameters).

 

Good luck

 

Marek Dziedzic

1994 C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: October-30-15 21:28
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

 

Hey Terry, 

Sounds like you're new to the list.  Welcome.  The plumbing systems on our 
boats are varied in nature and not particularly C specific.  Your best bet is 
to get the pump specifics (make, model, serial) and look for a discharge check 
valve part from the manufacturer.  If you don't have any luck get back to us 
with the specs and maybe we will be more lucky.

Warm regards,

Josh Muckley
S /V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, 







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Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

2015-10-31 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent info off list.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 31, 2015 5:25 AM, "Terry via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Here is a pic of the part, it is the white coupler on top of pump. I'm
> going to the boat this weekend and try to find make and model on the pump
> [image: image1.JPG]
> Thanks
> Terry Pearson
> 1896 C 33 MKII
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 30, 2015, at 9:28 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> If I may add, take pictures and make them available (DropBox, Google+,
> OneDrive, whatever is your favourite place to share pictures). It would be
> substantially easier to figure out what you need if others could see what
> is broken.
>
>
>
> Be aware that a lot of marine plumbing is common with the RVs; so you may
> have luck visiting a local RV place (with the broken part in hand). Don’t
> count that any fittings from a hardware store would work (different
> threads, different diameters).
>
>
>
> Good luck
>
>
>
> Marek Dziedzic
>
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* October-30-15 21:28
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List plumbing problem
>
>
>
> Hey Terry,
>
> Sounds like you're new to the list.  Welcome.  The plumbing systems on our
> boats are varied in nature and not particularly C specific.  Your best
> bet is to get the pump specifics (make, model, serial) and look for a
> discharge check valve part from the manufacturer.  If you don't have any
> luck get back to us with the specs and maybe we will be more lucky.
>
> Warm regards,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S /V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons,
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

2015-10-31 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Terry,

Per your original email you are referring to the WHITE fittings NOT the
grey ones,  correct?

The white ones came with the pump and are the suction and discharge check
valves.  See my previous emails.

As others have said the grey ones are Qest.  The largest selection can be
found here.

https://www.plumbingsupply.com/polyb.html

You'll probably want to bookmark the website since you're likely to need
these fittings in the future.  When assembling don't use any sealants.
Hand tighten and then add ~1/4 turn.

Josh
On Oct 30, 2015 9:05 PM, "Terry Pearson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>
>
> Hello all, first, I own a 1986 C 33 MK2, while winterizing my boat, I
> found a water leak on the discharge side of my potable water pump. The
> fitting between the pump and the elbow was cracked. I tried to unscrew the
> fitting and the theads snapped off in the pump housing. i haven’t tried
> yet, but am pretty certain I can use an ease out to get the remaining
> treads out of the pump. The problem I am having is I can not find the
> replacement part, or even know what it is called. Its a a white plastic
> fitting, male threads on both ends with a ball check valve built into the
> fitting. any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
> Terry Pearson
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

2015-10-31 Thread Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
Qest fittings. I had to order my replacement online. Couldn't find them
locally.

On Sat, Oct 31, 2015, 6:09 AM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> They look like Qest fittings--nothing special. Available at True Vale
> Hardware...
>
> Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
>
> On Oct 31, 2015, at 5:24 AM, Terry via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> Here is a pic of the part, it is the white coupler on top of pump. I'm
> going to the boat this weekend and try to find make and model on the pump
> [image: image1.JPG]
> Thanks
> Terry Pearson
> 1896 C 33 MKII
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 30, 2015, at 9:28 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> If I may add, take pictures and make them available (DropBox, Google+,
> OneDrive, whatever is your favourite place to share pictures). It would be
> substantially easier to figure out what you need if others could see what
> is broken.
>
>
>
> Be aware that a lot of marine plumbing is common with the RVs; so you may
> have luck visiting a local RV place (with the broken part in hand). Don’t
> count that any fittings from a hardware store would work (different
> threads, different diameters).
>
>
>
> Good luck
>
>
>
> Marek Dziedzic
>
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* October-30-15 21:28
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List plumbing problem
>
>
>
> Hey Terry,
>
> Sounds like you're new to the list.  Welcome.  The plumbing systems on our
> boats are varied in nature and not particularly C specific.  Your best
> bet is to get the pump specifics (make, model, serial) and look for a
> discharge check valve part from the manufacturer.  If you don't have any
> luck get back to us with the specs and maybe we will be more lucky.
>
> Warm regards,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S /V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons,
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

2015-10-31 Thread Terry Pearson via CnC-List
Thank you guys so much. I do believe they are Jabsco check valves. On the 
Jabsco diagram they are referred to as “ports”. 

Terry Pearson
S/V Tiki Time
1986 C 33 MK2
> On Oct 31, 2015, at 8:47 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Terry,
> 
> Per your original email you are referring to the WHITE fittings NOT the grey 
> ones,  correct? 
> 
> The white ones came with the pump and are the suction and discharge check 
> valves.  See my previous emails.
> 
> As others have said the grey ones are Qest.  The largest selection can be 
> found here.
> 
> https://www.plumbingsupply.com/polyb.html 
> 
> You'll probably want to bookmark the website since you're likely to need 
> these fittings in the future.  When assembling don't use any sealants.  Hand 
> tighten and then add ~1/4 turn.
> 
> Josh
> 
> On Oct 30, 2015 9:05 PM, "Terry Pearson via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> 
>>> 
>>> Hello all, first, I own a 1986 C 33 MK2, while winterizing my boat, I 
>>> found a water leak on the discharge side of my potable water pump. The 
>>> fitting between the pump and the elbow was cracked. I tried to unscrew the 
>>> fitting and the theads snapped off in the pump housing. i haven’t tried 
>>> yet, but am pretty certain I can use an ease out to get the remaining 
>>> treads out of the pump. The problem I am having is I can not find the 
>>> replacement part, or even know what it is called. Its a a white plastic 
>>> fitting, male threads on both ends with a ball check valve built into the 
>>> fitting. any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
>>> Terry Pearson
> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

2015-10-30 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Hey Terry,

Sounds like you're new to the list.  Welcome.  The plumbing systems on our
boats are varied in nature and not particularly C specific.  Your best
bet is to get the pump specifics (make, model, serial) and look for a
discharge check valve part from the manufacturer.  If you don't have any
luck get back to us with the specs and maybe we will be more lucky.

Warm regards,

Josh Muckley
S /V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 30, 2015 9:05 PM, "Terry Pearson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>
>
> Hello all, first, I own a 1986 C 33 MK2, while winterizing my boat, I
> found a water leak on the discharge side of my potable water pump. The
> fitting between the pump and the elbow was cracked. I tried to unscrew the
> fitting and the theads snapped off in the pump housing. i haven’t tried
> yet, but am pretty certain I can use an ease out to get the remaining
> treads out of the pump. The problem I am having is I can not find the
> replacement part, or even know what it is called. Its a a white plastic
> fitting, male threads on both ends with a ball check valve built into the
> fitting. any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
>
> Terry Pearson
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Stus-List plumbing problem

2015-10-30 Thread Terry Pearson via CnC-List

>> 
>> Hello all, first, I own a 1986 C 33 MK2, while winterizing my boat, I 
>> found a water leak on the discharge side of my potable water pump. The 
>> fitting between the pump and the elbow was cracked. I tried to unscrew the 
>> fitting and the theads snapped off in the pump housing. i haven’t tried yet, 
>> but am pretty certain I can use an ease out to get the remaining treads out 
>> of the pump. The problem I am having is I can not find the replacement part, 
>> or even know what it is called. Its a a white plastic fitting, male threads 
>> on both ends with a ball check valve built into the fitting. any help would 
>> be greatly appreciated.

>> Terry Pearson

> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

2015-10-30 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
If I may add, take pictures and make them available (DropBox, Google+, 
OneDrive, whatever is your favourite place to share pictures). It would be 
substantially easier to figure out what you need if others could see what is 
broken.

 

Be aware that a lot of marine plumbing is common with the RVs; so you may have 
luck visiting a local RV place (with the broken part in hand). Don’t count that 
any fittings from a hardware store would work (different threads, different 
diameters).

 

Good luck

 

Marek Dziedzic

1994 C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: October-30-15 21:28
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List plumbing problem

 

Hey Terry, 

Sounds like you're new to the list.  Welcome.  The plumbing systems on our 
boats are varied in nature and not particularly C specific.  Your best bet is 
to get the pump specifics (make, model, serial) and look for a discharge check 
valve part from the manufacturer.  If you don't have any luck get back to us 
with the specs and maybe we will be more lucky.

Warm regards,

Josh Muckley
S /V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Oct 30, 2015 9:05 PM, "Terry Pearson via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

 


Hello all, first, I own a 1986 C 33 MK2, while winterizing my boat, I found a 
water leak on the discharge side of my potable water pump. The fitting between 
the pump and the elbow was cracked. I tried to unscrew the fitting and the 
theads snapped off in the pump housing. i haven’t tried yet, but am pretty 
certain I can use an ease out to get the remaining treads out of the pump. The 
problem I am having is I can not find the replacement part, or even know what 
it is called. Its a a white plastic fitting, male threads on both ends with a 
ball check valve built into the fitting. any help would be greatly appreciated.





Terry Pearson







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Re: Stus-List plumbing...

2015-08-14 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
If I had to pick, I would use flair-it fittings.  I found one installed
from the previous owner and it was a pleasure to disconnect and reconnect.
They are also very cost effective and lightweight.

http://mobilehomepartsstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGYCategory_Code=CF

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 13, 2015 1:14 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I know this has been discussed a bit before; but I had yet another
 “aneurysm” to the original 1979 plastic hose coming out of my water heater
 while motoring last weekend; which is pushing me into some drastic measures
 regarding my water system.

 Yes, it’s all still original; stained plastic hose and all.  I need to
 replace it, and I’ve looked at the Whale snap-together system, in addition
 to the Sea Tech system from Wells.  I have also recently been looking at
 the snap-together Sharkbite fittings and tubing from Home Depot; as I
 recall, there have been comments from other listers about this system.  I’m
 tempted to go this route due to the fact that my system is pretty simple,
 and the easy availability and relatively low cost from Home Depot (as
 opposed to someplace like West Marine, where it says “boat” on it and costs
 twice as much).

 Comments, please?



 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


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Re: Stus-List plumbing...

2015-08-14 Thread Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Works with copper, pex, and the old grey PB (qest, polybutyl) pipe.

Josh
On Aug 14, 2015 9:35 AM, Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com wrote:

 If I had to pick, I would use flair-it fittings.  I found one installed
 from the previous owner and it was a pleasure to disconnect and reconnect.
 They are also very cost effective and lightweight.


 http://mobilehomepartsstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGYCategory_Code=CF

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 CC 37+
 Solomons, MD
 On Aug 13, 2015 1:14 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I know this has been discussed a bit before; but I had yet another
 “aneurysm” to the original 1979 plastic hose coming out of my water heater
 while motoring last weekend; which is pushing me into some drastic measures
 regarding my water system.

 Yes, it’s all still original; stained plastic hose and all.  I need to
 replace it, and I’ve looked at the Whale snap-together system, in addition
 to the Sea Tech system from Wells.  I have also recently been looking at
 the snap-together Sharkbite fittings and tubing from Home Depot; as I
 recall, there have been comments from other listers about this system.  I’m
 tempted to go this route due to the fact that my system is pretty simple,
 and the easy availability and relatively low cost from Home Depot (as
 opposed to someplace like West Marine, where it says “boat” on it and costs
 twice as much).

 Comments, please?



 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


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Re: Stus-List plumbing...

2015-08-14 Thread Petar Horvatic via CnC-List
Shark stuff is on my todo list.  I have the same happen all the time.  I made 
it a point to shut off pressure domestic water while motoring.  

 

But my setup is a bit unusual and not per recommendation of Seaward, 
manufacturer of my hot water tank.  Although it works very well.  

I have converted my oil cooler (westerbeake 40) to have antifreeze run through 
it and then it goes to waterheater.  This setup makes domestic hot water in the 
high 90F range after 15 minutes under way and after about 30 minutes at anchor. 
 On the other hand, it gets very hot if I motor long hours.  To a point where 
hot side hose comes off at the waterheater, prompting me to turn the pressure 
off when motoring.  

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 CC 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight 
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 9:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List plumbing...

 

shark bite connectors and pex tubing have worked extremely well in my house for 
the last 8 years...not a single leak problem and I have well over 100 sharkbite 
connections in the system...pex should be great for potable water on a boat too




Dwight Veinot

CC 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

d.ve...@bellaliant.net

 

 

On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 2:13 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

I know this has been discussed a bit before; but I had yet another “aneurysm” 
to the original 1979 plastic hose coming out of my water heater while motoring 
last weekend; which is pushing me into some drastic measures regarding my water 
system.

 

Yes, it’s all still original; stained plastic hose and all.  I need to replace 
it, and I’ve looked at the Whale snap-together system, in addition to the Sea 
Tech system from Wells.  I have also recently been looking at the snap-together 
Sharkbite fittings and tubing from Home Depot; as I recall, there have been 
comments from other listers about this system.  I’m tempted to go this route 
due to the fact that my system is pretty simple, and the easy availability and 
relatively low cost from Home Depot (as opposed to someplace like West Marine, 
where it says “boat” on it and costs twice as much).

 

Comments, please?

 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 


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Re: Stus-List plumbing...

2015-08-14 Thread dwight veinot via CnC-List
shark bite connectors and pex tubing have worked extremely well in my house
for the last 8 years...not a single leak problem and I have well over 100
sharkbite connections in the system...pex should be great for potable water
on a boat too

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Thu, Aug 13, 2015 at 2:13 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 I know this has been discussed a bit before; but I had yet another
 “aneurysm” to the original 1979 plastic hose coming out of my water heater
 while motoring last weekend; which is pushing me into some drastic measures
 regarding my water system.

 Yes, it’s all still original; stained plastic hose and all.  I need to
 replace it, and I’ve looked at the Whale snap-together system, in addition
 to the Sea Tech system from Wells.  I have also recently been looking at
 the snap-together Sharkbite fittings and tubing from Home Depot; as I
 recall, there have been comments from other listers about this system.  I’m
 tempted to go this route due to the fact that my system is pretty simple,
 and the easy availability and relatively low cost from Home Depot (as
 opposed to someplace like West Marine, where it says “boat” on it and costs
 twice as much).

 Comments, please?



 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


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Stus-List plumbing...

2015-08-13 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List
I know this has been discussed a bit before; but I had yet another “aneurysm” 
to the original 1979 plastic hose coming out of my water heater while motoring 
last weekend; which is pushing me into some drastic measures regarding my water 
system.

Yes, it’s all still original; stained plastic hose and all.  I need to replace 
it, and I’ve looked at the Whale snap-together system, in addition to the Sea 
Tech system from Wells.  I have also recently been looking at the snap-together 
Sharkbite fittings and tubing from Home Depot; as I recall, there have been 
comments from other listers about this system.  I’m tempted to go this route 
due to the fact that my system is pretty simple, and the easy availability and 
relatively low cost from Home Depot (as opposed to someplace like West Marine, 
where it says “boat” on it and costs twice as much).

Comments, please?



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

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Stus-List Plumbing Question - C C 34

2014-04-22 Thread Al Serrato
I've got a '81 34 and I wanted to make sure I know where all the thru hulls 
are.  
 
My question is where the foot-pump operated water supply is coming from. On 
other boats, I've seen the thru hull under the sink, but on this boat, the 
closest thru hull is the drain for the sink. I don't see a water source. 
 
My other question is whether there is some difference between the two faucet 
handles on the sink, or whether they're both coming from the water tank. The 
boat isn't equipped for hot water, so I was wondering why they built it that 
way. Maybe for some future hot water installation?
 
Thanks in advance for the help.
 
Al Serrato
1981 C  C 34
Fidelity
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Question - C C 34

2014-04-22 Thread Edd Schillay
Al,

The foot pump should be attached to the starboard fresh water tank.

As for the water heater, there should be a cylindrical one under your starboard 
cockpit seat where you also have engine access. 

The Enterprise-A was a 1978 CC 34.  It was destroyed by Superstorm Sandy over 
a year ago. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
CC 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.332.1671  | Fax
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5

On Apr 22, 2014, at 8:33 PM, Al Serrato aserrat...@yahoo.com wrote:

I've got a '81 34 and I wanted to make sure I know where all the thru hulls 
are. 
 
My question is where the foot-pump operated water supply is coming from. On 
other boats, I've seen the thru hull under the sink, but on this boat, the 
closest thru hull is the drain for the sink. I don't see a water source.
 
My other question is whether there is some difference between the two faucet 
handles on the sink, or whether they're both coming from the water tank. The 
boat isn't equipped for hot water, so I was wondering why they built it that 
way. Maybe for some future hot water installation?
 
Thanks in advance for the help.
 
Al Serrato
1981 C  C 34
Fidelity
San Francisco Bay
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Re: Stus-List Plumbing Question - C C 34

2014-04-22 Thread Frederick G Street
Hi, Al — welcome to the list!  On both my previous boat (1981 30mkI) and 
current boat (1979 Landfall 38), the galley foot pump works in parallel to the 
cold side of the pressure water system; so it’s plumbed to the freshwater 
system.  No through hull.

As far as the two faucet handles go, are you talking two handles on one faucet 
(like you’d see in a home installation), or two handles with two faucets?  If 
it’s the first, I’d guess the “hot” one is either not connected, or connected 
to the same supply as the “cold” one.  If the second, it may be a saltwater 
source, and you’re going to need to trace plumbing to find the source.

Does that help?

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 22, 2014, at 7:33 PM, Al Serrato aserrat...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I've got a '81 34 and I wanted to make sure I know where all the thru hulls 
 are. 
  
 My question is where the foot-pump operated water supply is coming from. On 
 other boats, I've seen the thru hull under the sink, but on this boat, the 
 closest thru hull is the drain for the sink. I don't see a water source.
  
 My other question is whether there is some difference between the two faucet 
 handles on the sink, or whether they're both coming from the water tank. The 
 boat isn't equipped for hot water, so I was wondering why they built it that 
 way. Maybe for some future hot water installation?
  
 Thanks in advance for the help.
  
 Al Serrato
 1981 C  C 34
 Fidelity
 San Francisco Bay
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