[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: WL2K rig wanted
Hello all, If anyone has a Yaesu FT-2600M 2m rig or other VHF/UHF rig with a DB-9 Pin port for packet on it and you want to sale it, please email me. I'm looking for such a rig for a portable WL2K EmComm station. 72, Ed,WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] building a K-2 compared to HW-9
I am trying to get a feel for the difficulty to build a K-2 (w/SSB and tuner options) compared to a Heathkit HW-9: difficulty, time to complete, troubleshooting, etc. My last kit was a good while back - an HW-9 with band pack. I'd like to build the K-2 myself but don't want to bite off more than I can handle or have time to complete. Thanks for any input. 73, KM4AF -- Chip ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] building a K-2 compared to HW-9
Well ... the K2 has a lot of parts, but it is built one part at a time. Have you downloaded the K2 manual from the Elecraft website? Reading the manual should give you a good feel for the difficulty in of building the unit, and the troubleshooting information available. Of course if you do have a problem that you can't solve, this list is a great place to get additional troubleshooting help. Time to build a basic K2? I wish I had spent longer building mine -- the thing is FUN to build! Mark AD5SS K2 s/n 5340 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] building a K-2 compared to HW-9
much easier than the heathkit. You will notice the parts are smaller, has no point to point wiring, and almost no mechanical assemblies involved like the tediuos assemblies in HW 9. The alignment (for K1) is easier too. Many find it enjoyable to build and usually sell them so they can build another one! Ron, wb1hga Chip Hood wrote: I am trying to get a feel for the difficulty to build a K-2 (w/SSB and tuner options) compared to a Heathkit HW-9: difficulty, time to complete, troubleshooting, etc. My last kit was a good while back - an HW-9 with band pack. I'd like to build the K-2 myself but don't want to bite off more than I can handle or have time to complete. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] building a K-2 compared to HW-9
I have not built a Heathkit. I have a background in electronics, I have done plenty of soldering, but I have not built many kits. The directions, the way the parts are stored, and the support makes a big difference with this kit. Plugging components in, soldering them, and following the instructions is very simple. I have been working on my kit, off and on since the end of January. With a wife and three kids, I do not always get the time to focus on it that I would like. There are resistance checks, and test steps along the way. When readings and their suggested values did not completely make since, I pulled out the schematic and made sense out of them. There are three boards in the basic kit, the control board, the front panel and the RF board. The first two went together quickly and easily for me. The only struggle was a back panel mod. Something that is a weakness in my skill set. I have gotten some great advice from Don and Ron on how I can make the task much simpler next time. Toroids were a bit of a challenge for me. I have VERY large hands, and I had NEVER done toroids before. None the less I have gotten through the first 5 and learned quite a bit. I get a little better at each one I do, thanks to a lot of good advice that has been imparted here. I do not look forward to them, but I can get them done. Sewing them and tinning the ones that stand upright, I have gotten a handle on. Tinning the ones that lay down flat, are still a bit of a trial. I have learned much in the short time I have worked on the kit. It seems very daunting at first, but like so many tasks in life, when taken a bit at a time, all of a sudden you look back and think, wow, I'm almost done. You shouldn't have any trouble with the kit. Take your time. If you run into troubles, or get confused or frustrated, sit it down and come back to it. If it still gives you trouble ask for advice either publicly here on the list, or privately to specific folks. There is a fountain of information here, just waiting for you to take a sip. Good luck. David Wilburn [EMAIL PROTECTED] K4DGW Chip Hood wrote: I am trying to get a feel for the difficulty to build a K-2 (w/SSB and tuner options) compared to a Heathkit HW-9: difficulty, time to complete, troubleshooting, etc. My last kit was a good while back - an HW-9 with band pack. I'd like to build the K-2 myself but don't want to bite off more than I can handle or have time to complete. Thanks for any input. 73, KM4AF -- Chip ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] building a K-2 compared to HW-9
Ron, I just finished a basic K2. I built it a couple hours at a time over a couple months. I will make a wild guess that it took me about 20 hours. This is a real rough number, but should give you an idea. Lots of fun and only a couple difficult things to do. The assembly instructions are fabulous, but do watch this list during your building, for late breaking issues/changes in the build process. Good Luck, Tom KG3V Quoting ron [EMAIL PROTECTED]: much easier than the heathkit. You will notice the parts are smaller, has no point to point wiring, and almost no mechanical assemblies involved like the tediuos assemblies in HW 9. The alignment (for K1) is easier too. Many find it enjoyable to build and usually sell them so they can build another one! Ron, wb1hga Chip Hood wrote: I am trying to get a feel for the difficulty to build a K-2 (w/SSB and tuner options) compared to a Heathkit HW-9: difficulty, time to complete, troubleshooting, etc. My last kit was a good while back - an HW-9 with band pack. I'd like to build the K-2 myself but don't want to bite off more than I can handle or have time to complete. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] building a K-2 compared to HW-9
Chris, I have no experience with Heath Kits, but understand that they were an important part of amateur radio and electronics history for the masses. However, there is always one description of some of the Hkit projects, perhaps an exaggeration , that has always stuck in my mind: Grief Kits. g I have built a K2 and a KX1 and the worse thing about the kit construction, to me, is finishing. When done, you want to keep building. The service and back up support is unrivaled in the industry. Just this weekend, Tom Rauch, W8JI, a well-known topband expert and ham electronics guru, who I don't think is a K2 owner, commented on the Top Band reflector about K2's. He marveled at the front end design in one post and the company support in another. He had tested an earlier K2 on 160 meters and noticed that the preamp did not increase sensitivity, but only gain, or something to that effect. He sent one email to Elecraft and within days, the problem was solved and a bulletin went out to all owners and all of the radios were corrected. Tom said that would have never happened with other manufacturers. 73, Gil NN4CW K2 3104; KX1 53 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 to antenna Power
It is called a Bias T and you will need two of them to accomplish your goals. One at the shack end and one at the antenna end. A sample of a commercial bias t can be seen here. http://www.mfjenterprises.com/products.php?prodid=MFJ-4116 Hope this helps.. /joe -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Sunday, February 18, 2007 7:53 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 to antenna Power Bob, That technique is often done to switch relays, so yes it can be used in the presence of transmit RF voltages. Basically the way it is done is to capacitor couple the RF to the coax at both ends (a series capacitor) and feed the DC to the coax through RF Chokes sized to have at least 10 times the coax impedance at the lowest operating frequency. The capacitors must be large enough to have a low impedance at the operating frequency and their voltage rating must be large enough to withstand the peak RF voltages present - all with adequate safety factors (3 is usually good) considered. Note that none of these parameters relate to the control voltage or current - of course the RF chokes must be able to handle whatever current is required for the control mechanism. I do not have a handy reference to a schematic, but that is the 'jist' of how it is accomplished - the capacitors keep the DC voltage off the transmitter and the antenna and the RF Chokes keep the RF out of the control signals. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Good evening Elecrafters, may your Monday be a restfull one! I would like to send a low voltage limited current up the coax from my K2 to the antenna for powering a small device. What would be the best way to inject this voltage into the antenna feed (coax) at the K2 and recovering it up the stack? I was hoping to continue supplying this voltage even while transmitting 100 watts. I thought that the transverter manuals might have some advice about powering preamps but, not a word. Best regards, Bob K7HBG. K2# 2836 which Will only be pried from my cold dead fingers ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.1/691 - Release Date: 2/17/2007 5:06 PM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.1/691 - Release Date: 2/17/2007 5:06 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 Long Wire Antenna
Hello to the group, Sometime ago someone posted a specification for a long wire antenna for use with the K1, 80m to 15m. I remember the length as being 110 feet, but do not remember what was stated for the counterpoises. I have been looking at the elecraft mailing list, but have not found the thread I have been looking for. I would entertain all suggestions for a long wire antenna. Thank you for consideration of this request. 73, Jim Wejcman, W0KWU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] building a K-2 compared to HW-9
Chip Hood wrote: I am trying to get a feel for the difficulty to build a K-2 (w/SSB and tuner options) compared to a Heathkit HW-9: difficulty, time to complete, troubleshooting, etc. My last kit was a good while back - an HW-9 with band pack. I'd like to build the K-2 myself but don't want to bite off more than I can handle or have time to complete. It has more parts, but in many ways it's easier. You don't have to cut and strip many wires and almost all of it is stuffing components onto a board in precise locations and soldering them. The technique of soldering is slightly different, but if you have or get a temperature-controlled soldering iron with the appropriate tip it will be easy to do a good job. You might want to build something smaller as practice if you don't have experience with this type of construction. Winding toroids is easy and non-critical. You should learn how to tin the leads properly; this has been a common problem. You can buy the toroids pre-wound and tinned, but I would only do that if saving time were important. Troubleshooting is aided greatly by this reflector! Other builders will hold your hand until you get it working. The main thing is to take your time, follow the instructions, and when you are not sure of something -- ask. Also I hope that this doesn't start another thread, but doing the inventory at the start as the instructions tell you to helps avoid the kind of mistake where you mix up parts; identifying parts can be tricky. It does not take extra time to do the inventory because then you don't have to search for each part as you need it! I built mine a number of years ago so I've forgotten howlong it took! -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] building a K-2 compared to HW-9
--- Chip Hood [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am trying to get a feel for the difficulty to build a K-2 (w/SSB and tuner options) compared to a Heathkit HW-9: difficulty, time to complete, troubleshooting, etc. It's been a while since I built an HW9 and the little grey cells seem to be getting away from me in my dotage, but I don't remember any greater degree of difficulty building the K2 over the HW9. It took me about 40 hours to build the basic K2--I'm kinda slow. With the HW9 I had to find someone to borrow a freq meter from to align it, the K2 only requires a DMM. Also, with the HW9, I didn't have an email list to bail me out of my dumb mistakes. All things considered, I'd rather do a K2. Bob Baxter aa7eq ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] building a K-2 compared to HW-9
Hi - The beauty of building the Elecraft K2, as compared to the many Heakkit kits they sold - there is no wires, or point-to-point wiring and bundled cables - like one often found in various places in Heathkits. I think I built 6 or more Heathkits. They all worked - very little if any alignment was possible. The Elecraft K2 is just beautifully layed out - everything in its place. You finish one board, and it naturally plugs into the next, and the next. Just a matter of carefully soldering all the parts into the 4 or 5 pcb boards. The only thing one must be careful with, on a K2, is to carefully solder with the correct Kester solder, and a good temperature soldering-station, and to carefully read the manual instructions - as you go along. After 2 hours of building and soldering, it is best to put it aside, for the next day. What did I do wrong in my K2: I soldered a main dual-row jack, on the wrong side of the main RF board. I dropped the LCD on a hard tile floor and caused me to have to buy another. And I mistakenly folder-over 1 pin on a 14-pin dual-inline IC, where 1 pin was folder under the IC - not thru the hole. In each case - Elecraft's parts department, and the Elecraft email list of experts - lead me thru those 3 mistakes. Oh yes - a inexpensive SOLDER SUCKER tool - is an absolute tool to buy. (like $10) What I did do very well - was solder parts, a skill I got quite good at - with all my previous Heathkit experience. And I built 3 boats in the past - because of good mechanical skills I was born with. Fred, N3CSY TV dinner still cooling? Check out Tonight's Picks on Yahoo! TV. http://tv.yahoo.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] building a K-2 compared to HW-9
Chris, I have built a HW8 (30 yrs ago), a K2 (2006) and several other kits and projects during my ham life. The K2 is just as easy to build as a HW8. Just follow the instructions and take your time. As for engineering, I was most impressed by the K2 kit. No long wire cables atc. I loved building the K2 and it was just as easy to align as the HW8. Building is smooth and I say it again, take your time, don't be hasty, check every box on the page of the manual after you have done something. Checking the box on the page will take your eyes off the K2 for a moment and that really helped me to avoid mistakes. Also, if you have patience, you will be rewarded. If you go to fast, you will make mistakes. Good luck. 73 Arie PA3A -Oorspronkelijk bericht- Van: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Namens Chip Hood Verzonden: maandag 19 februari 2007 14:33 Aan: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Onderwerp: [Elecraft] building a K-2 compared to HW-9 I am trying to get a feel for the difficulty to build a K-2 (w/SSB and tuner options) compared to a Heathkit HW-9: difficulty, time to complete, troubleshooting, etc. My last kit was a good while back - an HW-9 with band pack. I'd like to build the K-2 myself but don't want to bite off more than I can handle or have time to complete. Thanks for any input. 73, KM4AF -- Chip ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[QRP-L] ANNOUNCEMENT: QRP-ARCI GRID SQUARE SPRINT
Hi everybody! Wanted to give everybody some advance notice of our next contest. This contest is BRAND NEW and a contest format that was suggested by QRP-ARCI Members. However, since it was new, it missed the deadline for QST. Please feel free to publish it to any lists you may be members of. The exchange as printed in the QQ also featured a small gremlin, and the correct rules including the exchange is posted on the right hand side of the QRP-ARCI homepage along with all of the other contests for 2007. The correct rules are also posted below. Good Luck! 73/72 Jeff - VA3JFF - Date/Time: 1500Z to 1800Z on 18 March 2007. Mode: HF CW only. Exchange: Members send: RST, Grid Square, ARCI member number Non-Members send: RST, Grid Square, Power Out QSO Points: Member = 5 points Non-Member, Different Continent = 4 points Non-Member, Same Continent = 2 points Multiplier: Grid Square total for all bands. The same station may be worked on multiple bands for QSO points and SPC credit. POWER MULTIPLIER: 5 Watts = x1 1 - 5 Watts = x7 250 mW - 1 Watt = x10 55 mW - 250 mW = x15 55 mW or less = x20 SUGGESTED FREQUENCIES: 160m 1810 kHz 80m 3560 kHz 40m 7030 kHz (please listen at 7040 kHz for rock bound participants) 20m 14060 kHz 15m 21060 kHz 10m 28060 kHz BONUS POINTS: If you are operating PORTABLE using battery power AND a temporary antenna, add 5000 points to your final score. (You can NOT be at your shack operating from battery power using your home station antenna to qualify for this bonus.) This is to help level the playing field for contesters who work from the field against contest stations with 5 element yagis at 70 ft. Score: Final Score = Points (total for all bands) x Grid Squares (total for all bands) x Power Multiplier + Bonus Points Categories: Entry may be All-Band, Single Band, High Bands (10m-15m-20m) or Low Bands (40m-80m) How to Participate: Get on any of the HF bands except the WARC bands and hang out near the QRP frequencies. Work as many stations calling CQ QRP or CQ TEST as possible, or call CQ QRP or CQ TEST yourself! You can work a station for credit once on each band. Email Log Submission: Submit Logs in plain text format along with a summary stating your Callsign, Entry Category, Actual Power and Station Description along with score calculation to [EMAIL PROTECTED] on or before 5 March 2006. Snail mail Log Submission: Submit Logs along with a summary stating your Callsign, Entry Category, Actual Power and Station Description along with score calculation to: QRP-ARCI Grid Square Sprint c/o Jeff Hetherington, VA3JFF 139 Elizabeth St. W. Welland, Ontario Canada L3C 4M3 Entries must be postmarked on or before 18 April 2007. Results: Will be published in QRP Quarterly and shown on the QRP-ARCI website. Certificates: Will be awarded to the top scoring entrant in each category. Certificates may be awarded for 2nd and 3rd place if entries are sufficient in a category. = L. Jeffrey Hetherington - VA3JFF QRP-ARCI (sm) Contest Manager QRP-ARCI (sm) #9223 / K2 #3375 / KX1 #631 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com __ QRP-L mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/qrp-l Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [Elecraft] building a K-2 compared to HW-9
I agree with Arie, the K2 is not a technically challenging build. The fact that the build is broken up into many smaller steps really helps make it easy to sit down, work on it for a couple hours, then go and do something else. The engineering that went into this, and attention to detail, is superb. Lastly, the support here on this reflector is second to none, everyone is extremely helpful and there's a wide range of knowledge here. The only thing you need to build this kit is a very elemental electronics knowledge (identifying parts, mostly), some basic soldering skills (a quality soldering station will help immensely, as will decent fine tips), and attention to details. You'll enjoy it! Jeff KA6LAF On 2/19/07, Arie Kleingeld PA3A [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Chris, I have built a HW8 (30 yrs ago), a K2 (2006) and several other kits and projects during my ham life. The K2 is just as easy to build as a HW8. Just follow the instructions and take your time. As for engineering, I was most impressed by the K2 kit. No long wire cables atc. I loved building the K2 and it was just as easy to align as the HW8. Building is smooth and I say it again, take your time, don't be hasty, check every box on the page of the manual after you have done something. Checking the box on the page will take your eyes off the K2 for a moment and that really helped me to avoid mistakes. Also, if you have patience, you will be rewarded. If you go to fast, you will make mistakes. Good luck. 73 Arie PA3A -Oorspronkelijk bericht- Van: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Namens Chip Hood Verzonden: maandag 19 februari 2007 14:33 Aan: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Onderwerp: [Elecraft] building a K-2 compared to HW-9 I am trying to get a feel for the difficulty to build a K-2 (w/SSB and tuner options) compared to a Heathkit HW-9: difficulty, time to complete, troubleshooting, etc. My last kit was a good while back - an HW-9 with band pack. I'd like to build the K-2 myself but don't want to bite off more than I can handle or have time to complete. Thanks for any input. 73, KM4AF -- Chip ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] TR speed and receiver settling
I'm not quite sure how to ask this, and perhaps it's covered somewhere else (again, not knowing how to ask leaves me having trouble finding it in the archives) :) Anyhow, in a fast paced contest such as this weekend's ARRL DX CW, I found myself wishing that the time between finishing transmitting and the time when the receiver settles to be faster. I.e. I send my call, and before I the audio comes back to normal levels, the other station is partially into repeating my call. I tried changing the TR values in the menu, but that didn't really change things. I also tried reducing sidetone volume significantly, thinking that might help, but it didn't really help much. Again, apologies for not knowing the technical jargon to describe this, but hopefully I've given enough info to get the point across. So, is there a knob somewhere, or something I could adjust to achieve what I'm looking for? Thanks for any thoughts, Jeff KA6LAF PS: Love this radio, the DSP was a life saver for weak signals this last weekend. I worked stuff that I couldn't have copied without the DSP. Bravo! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Contesting with my K2
Hi All, Just spent this past weekend in the ARRL International DX Contest (CW) with my K2. I haven't spent more than a few minutes in front of it despite getting it back in August '06 so this was a good opportunity to become acquainted with it. Previous transceivers I have owned were an HW-101, Icom 706 MkIIG, Yaesu FT-857D, and a KX1. As a contest rig, in my limited experience my K2 leaves the Icom and Yaesu far behind as an easy to use transceiver. However, the time spent with it this weekend naturally leads to a list of likes and wish list items for future products so here goes: Filters - Absolutely lovely. Better than the optional filters I added to my Icom 706 and my Yaesu 857D. I only wish there were UP and DOWN buttons to select them, like the Band select buttons. Yeah, I know there are only 4 filters! DSP - I kept it on throughout the contest and loved the way even weak signals popped up out of an almost-silent background. It eliminates the noise from my notebook computer's charger and greatly reduces listening fatigue. However, I'm still struggling with the controls and I've yet to find the real time clock. RIT - In my entire 33-year ham career I have never felt the need for RIT (and XIT even less). Not exactly a complaint (it's probably just me) but to me the RIT control takes up a lot of real estate on a cramped front panel. Make the RIT control an encoder (if it isnt already) and then you can have it do any number of other cool adjustments at the press of a button (Id put the keyer speed control on there if it was me and make some room on the front panel). AF Gain/RF Gain/Speed/Power Controls - Way too close together. I found the best way to use them was to push directly on the end of the knob with my fingertip and turn it that way, rather than trying to grasp the knob. How about putting AF/RF Gain to the left of the tuning knob and Speed Power to the right? (also see the above RIT comment) Display - OK, as far as it goes. I'd take out the bargraph S-Meter and expand the LCD display to fill the space. Use a dot matrix LCD and run a bargraph S-meter along the bottom of the LCD display. A dot matrix LCD gives you tons of flexibility to show additional information, like the status of many of the controls such as DSP (if installed) and filter selections. Tune Button How about making it so that hitting Tune automatically reduces transmitter output to just a few watts for the tune operation, then returns the K2 back to its previously set output when tuning is complete? I was using the N1MM Logger software and a MicroHam Winkey-based keyer so hands-on control of the K2 was limited to mostly tuning and filter selection. N1MM Logger and the K2 get along very well together. I can't comment on the K2's keyer. Hope this is of some interest. 73, Ken Alexander, VE3HLS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Contesting with my K2
Tune Button – How about making it so that hitting Tune automatically reduces transmitter output to just a few watts for the tune operation, then returns the K2 back to it's previously set output when tuning is complete? Running an Elecraft tuner? The K2/100 drops down to 20 watts when running the KAT100 tuner, and the K2 drops down to about 2 watts when tuning with the KAT2. If your K2 doesn't reduce power, you might need to check your firmware version. Mark AD5SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Contesting with my K2
Hi Mark and Leigh, I'm using an Elecraft T-1 external tuner, which I also use (less and less) with an FT-817. It would still be a nice feature for those who use an external tuner. I didn't know about its ability to reduce power for internal tuner operation because I don't have one. I wonder if that's something the tuner instructs the K2 to do? If it's internal to the K2 then it would be a neat fuction to be able to turn on and off for external tuner use. 73 - Ken --- Mark Bayern [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Tune Button How about making it so that hitting Tune automatically reduces transmitter output to just a few watts for the tune operation, then returns the K2 back to it's previously set output when tuning is complete? Running an Elecraft tuner? The K2/100 drops down to 20 watts when running the KAT100 tuner, and the K2 drops down to about 2 watts when tuning with the KAT2. If your K2 doesn't reduce power, you might need to check your firmware version. Mark AD5SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] TR speed and receiver settling
There must be, and somebody more knowledgeable than me is bound to jump in and tell you how to set it up! 8-) I found that my K2 (without me doing anything) was set up for what I would consider to be full break-in, i.e., I could receive between each of the dits and dahs I was sending! It's a bit disconcerting at first, but I appreciated having it so I could hit the Escape key and stop sending my call a second time when I could hear the DX station transmitting. 73 - Ken --- Jeff Kinzli [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm not quite sure how to ask this, and perhaps it's covered somewhere else (again, not knowing how to ask leaves me having trouble finding it in the archives) :) Anyhow, in a fast paced contest such as this weekend's ARRL DX CW, I found myself wishing that the time between finishing transmitting and the time when the receiver settles to be faster. I.e. I send my call, and before I the audio comes back to normal levels, the other station is partially into repeating my call. I tried changing the TR values in the menu, but that didn't really change things. I also tried reducing sidetone volume significantly, thinking that might help, but it didn't really help much. Again, apologies for not knowing the technical jargon to describe this, but hopefully I've given enough info to get the point across. So, is there a knob somewhere, or something I could adjust to achieve what I'm looking for? Thanks for any thoughts, Jeff KA6LAF PS: Love this radio, the DSP was a life saver for weak signals this last weekend. I worked stuff that I couldn't have copied without the DSP. Bravo! ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 Morse Memories - Suggestion
Hi, I've been finding that the keyer memories in the KX1 are a bit too small for my basic CQ call when I'm pedestrian mobile. I'd like to be able to call CQ CQ CQ CQ CQ CQ DE VA3SIE/PM VA3SIE/PM K. Sometimes when conditions are poor maybe another 3 or 4 CQs too! I have to resort to loading the CQ calls in one memory and the DE VA3SIE part in the other, which usually means there's a bit of a pause in my CQ call. I suggest that it would be a really nice and simple(?) feature to be able to chain the two memories together so that the KX1 would send the contents of the first memory and then the contents of the second, (and repeat if so requested). This could be signalled by the user by a double press of the memory button, eg. Current behaviour: Quickly Press 'A', 'B' - Send first memory. Quickly Press 'A', 'C' - Send second memory. Quickly Press 'A', Long press 'B' - Send first memory repeat. Quickly Press 'A', Long press 'C' - Send second memory repeat. Additional commands: Quickly Press 'A', 'B', 'B' - Send first memory then second memory. Quickly Press 'A', 'C', 'C' - Send second memory then first memory. Quickly Press 'A', 'B', Long press 'B' - Send first memory then second memory repeat. Quickly Press 'A', 'C', Long press 'C' - Send second memory then first memory repeat. I expect the firmware is pretty cramped already though, but I can dream :) Or maybe I just missed it in the instructions? I must say I had missed the beacon mode before and was that ever a nice surprise when I stumbled on it! 73, Martin. VA3SIE. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Morse Memories - Suggestion
Martin Gillen wrote: Hi, I've been finding that the keyer memories in the KX1 are a bit too small for my basic CQ call when I'm pedestrian mobile. I'd like to be i have to ask... what kind of antenna do you use for pedestrian mobile? -- ___ peace, sergio photographer, journalist, visionary www.village-buzz.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Contesting with my K2
Ken, The power reduction algorithm is in the K2 firmware, but it is not active unless the KAT2, KAT100 or KPA100 are installed. It would take a firmware change to limit the power with all TUNE operations, and those of us who repair and align K2s would miss the ability to dial in any power level with those options removed, but I guess we could get along if TUNE limited the power all the time. To further complicate matters, several of the manual Alignment and Test procedures and the Troubleshooting section would have to be changed as well. I do not believe Wayne Burdick has time available to change the firmware right now, but he may be willing to add it to the 'wish list' for the next firmware upgrade. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi Mark and Leigh, I'm using an Elecraft T-1 external tuner, which I also use (less and less) with an FT-817. It would still be a nice feature for those who use an external tuner. I didn't know about its ability to reduce power for internal tuner operation because I don't have one. I wonder if that's something the tuner instructs the K2 to do? If it's internal to the K2 then it would be a neat fuction to be able to turn on and off for external tuner use. 73 - Ken -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.2/692 - Release Date: 2/18/2007 4:35 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Contesting with my K2
Hi Don, Yeah, it's strictly a wish list item...far from a deal breaker. I turned the power way down during the contest when I was changing bands and didn't want any Hi Current messages popping up. I was also intersted to see how little power was required for the T-1 to work. Naturally, there were several occasions where I forgot to turn the power back up to 5W, and on those occasions I actually made a few contacts with 1 watt or maybe even a little less! I kicked myself for forgetting, but I was also mightily impressed that I'd managed to cross the Atlantic with so little! 73 - Ken P.S. If it requires one of the tuners to be connected, do you think that a properly installed jumper or a few components would trick the K2 into thinking a tuner had been installed? Just curious. --- Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ken, The power reduction algorithm is in the K2 firmware, but it is not active unless the KAT2, KAT100 or KPA100 are installed. It would take a firmware change to limit the power with all TUNE operations, and those of us who repair and align K2s would miss the ability to dial in any power level with those options removed, but I guess we could get along if TUNE limited the power all the time. To further complicate matters, several of the manual Alignment and Test procedures and the Troubleshooting section would have to be changed as well. I do not believe Wayne Burdick has time available to change the firmware right now, but he may be willing to add it to the 'wish list' for the next firmware upgrade. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi Mark and Leigh, I'm using an Elecraft T-1 external tuner, which I also use (less and less) with an FT-817. It would still be a nice feature for those who use an external tuner. I didn't know about its ability to reduce power for internal tuner operation because I don't have one. I wonder if that's something the tuner instructs the K2 to do? If it's internal to the K2 then it would be a neat fuction to be able to turn on and off for external tuner use. 73 - Ken -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.2/692 - Release Date: 2/18/2007 4:35 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: Feb 21 - Mar 22, 2007
~ N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR February 21 - March 22, 2007 ~ 80 METER FOXHUNT (QRP CW) EST/EDST: EACH Tuesday 9 PM to 10:29 PM Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/ ~ 40 METER FOXHUNT (QRP CW) EST/EDST: EACH Thursday 9 PM to 10:29 PM Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/ ~~ North Carolina Road Kill Round Up (CW) *** QRP Contest *** EST: Feb 21, 9:30PM - 11:00PM UTC: Feb 22, 02:30z - 04:00z Rules: http://ncroadkillroundup.homestead.com/index.html ~ CQ WW 160-Meter DX Contest (SSB) ... QRP Category Feb 24, z to Feb 25, 2359z Rules: http://www.cq-amateur-radio.com/awards.html ~ REF (French) SSB Contest Feb 24, 0600z to Feb 25, 1800z Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/refc.htm ~ UBA DX Contest - Belgium (CW) ... QRP Category Feb 24, 1300z to Feb 25, 1300z Rules: http://www.uba.be/hf_contests/pdf/ubatest_dx.pdf ~ Mississippi QSO Party (Ph/CW) Feb 24, 1500z to Feb 25, 0300z Rules: http://www.arrlmiss.org ~ Colorado QRP Club Winter QSO Party (CW/SSB) ... QRP Contest! Feb 24, 2200z to Feb 25, 0359z Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/months/feb.html ~ High Speed CW Club Contest ... QRP Category Feb 25, 0900z to 1100z and 1500z to 1700z Rules: http://www.dl3bzz.de/html/hscconte.html ~ North Carolina QSO Party (CW/SSB) ... 100W all QSOs Feb 25, 1700z to Feb 26, 0300z Rules: http://www.w4nc.com ~ ARRL International DX Contest (SSB) ... QRP Category Mar 3, z to Mar 4, 2400z Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2007 ~ Wake-Up! QRP Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest *** Mar 3, 0400z to 0600z Rules: http://www.qrp.ru/sprint_e.htm ~ Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest! Mar 6, 0200z to 0400z (First Monday 9 PM EST) Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/ ~ Pesky Texan Armadillo Chase (CW) *** QRP Contest *** CST: Mar 7, 2030 to 2200 UTC: Mar 8, 0230z to 0400z Rules: http://www.w5usj.com/default.html ~ *** Daylight saving starts Mar 11 - 0200 AM *** ~ Idaho QSO Party (Ph/CW/Dig) ... QRP Category Mar 10, 1300z to Mar 11, 0100z and Mar 11, 1300z to Mar 12, 0100z Rules: http://www.nt4tt.com/main_page_link/nt4tt.htm ~ Oklahoma QSO Party (CW/Digital/Phone) ... QRP Category Mar 10, 1400z to Mar 11, 0200z and Mar 11, 1400z to Mar 11, 2000z Rules: http://okdxa.org ~ AGCW QRP Contest (CW) ... QRP/QRPp Category Mar 10, 1400z to 2000z Rules: http://www.agcw.org/agcw-con/2007/Englisch/agcw_qrp_e.htm ~ ?Elecraft QSO Party (CW/SSB/Dig) ...QRP Category Mar 10, 1500z to Mar 11, 1500z Rules: http://www.elecraft.com ~ ?Second Class Operator's Club Marathon Sprint (CW) .. QRP Contest! Mar 10, 1800z to 2400z Rules: http://www.qsl.net/soc/contests.htm ~ North American Sprint (RTTY) ... QRP Category Mar 11, z to 0400z Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/sprintrules.php ~ UBA (Belgian) Spring Contest (CW-80m) ... QRP Category Mar 11, 0700z to 1100z Rules: http://www.uba.be/hf_contests/rules_en.html# ~ Wisconsin QSO Party (CW/SSB)...QRP Category Mar 11, 1800z to Mar 12, 0100z Rules: http://www.warac.org/index.htm ~ Ten-Ten Mobile QSO Party (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category Mar 17, 0001z to 2359z Rules: http://www.ten-ten.org/calendar.html ~ BARTG Spring RTTY Contest Mar 17, 0200z to Mar 19, 0200z Rules: http://www.bartg.demon.co.uk/Contests/07_rules.htm ~ Russian DX Contest (SSB/CW) ... QRP Category Mar 17, 1200z to
R: [Elecraft] Pedestrian Mobile Antenna
Hi, My KX-1 has the internal tuner option. What I have for antenna is a 24 feet length of small wire, plus another 15 feet as a counterpoise. I attach a big bolt (actually a nut) to the wire ant throw it up a tree, ten toss the counterpoise in the opposite direction. I have a tiny paddle connected to the right side of the KX-1 with a strip of Velcro, see : http://www.mtechnologies.com/palm/index.htm and a pack of 8 L91 Lithium batteries, giving me nearly 3AH at about 13V with a weight that's only 50% than alkaline. My headset comes from an Ipod, and it's the kind that you put inside your ears giving some acoustical insulation from the local noise. All that stuff fits nicely on one of my vest's pockets. After finishing my QSO, I pull down the wire and away we go. If the wire is stuck in the tree I'll leave it there and it will be good again tomorrow... And I have a spare one with me. I can easily connect all of Europe (from Italy) since that kind of wire works as a NVIS antenna, if you keep it on a slope, at least on 30 and 40 meters (I have that 3080 option too...) Never got so much fun. The only drawback, if I fail to spread some QSL around me, and maybe a copy or two of QST, usually after some little time a Carabinieri Patrol pops up, politely asking me what I'm doing there with black boxes and dangling wires Not a big problem, if it wasn't for the couple of Snipers that usually I can see lurking from behind a black van, targeting my brains on a Riflescope. I'm seriously considering to bring a big flag with me, explaining what's my purpose in advance. Cheers, IK4YNG Paolo --- i have to ask... what kind of antenna do you use for pedestrian mobile? -- ___ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] wire antennas
Hi This is a little off topic, but I don't know of a better place to find someone that would know the answer to my question. Many years ago I used one coax to feed three different inverted V antennas all for different bands. At the time I thought they worked just fine. Worked all kinds of dx with the setup. I have been told lately that the unused antennas on the setup would pick up additional noise. Has anyone ever done any testing with multiple antennas on one feedline to see if they really do pick up extra noise? I'm thinking about putting up new inverted V antennas on 160, 80, and 40 meters and feeding them with one coax. Sure beats antenna switching and it always seem to me that the signal would go to the resonate antenna. I always used a coaxial balun in the feedline. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Scott N5SM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re:Newbie question :160M module
Hello everyone, On the 160M module, toroid L1 .I managed to burn off just a little too much enamel insulator from 26ga. wire.Bare copper into the 1st 1/2 turn on the toroid. Am I o.k.? Or should I rewind? Tnx from new guy ,just starting out. W1EGJ Larry Wright ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: R: [Elecraft] Pedestrian Mobile Antenna
Hi, Sergio/Paolo. Sergio asked: what kind of antenna do you use for pedestrian mobile? You can find full details of my pedestrian mobile antenna here: http://web.ncf.ca/fj620/contests/fybo2007/ Paolo Said: What I have for antenna is a 24 feet length of small wire, plus another 15 feet as a counterpoise. Yes, me too, that's always in my backpack... I use an elastic band between the end of the wire and the weight because it's usually the weight which gets caught when I try to pull the wire back out of the tree. I've had a lot of fun making contact with this simple Elecraft Recommended antenna :) You're right about those ipod-style headphones too, I use Sony Fontopia earbuds which are the same design and I love them. What kind of antenna do you use for the 80m option, Paolo? I use a 135ft dipole with light twinlead feeder but it only works on 80m, no 40/30/20, so I'm going to try an OCF dipole for all KX1 bands soon. if it wasn't for the couple of Snipers that usually I can see lurking from behind a black van, targeting my brains on a Riflescope Yikes!! I never had THAT experience (yet?) The closest I came was sitting in a park around midnight, totally in the dark, using the little white LED for logging, and a couple of police on bicycles stopped by to see what I was up to. I was really glad that my antenna wire was almost vertical straight up from my camp chair to the tree, so those police did not catch the wire in their bike wheels! I hooked up a speaker and they were pleased to listen to me make a CW contact :) 73 Good luck with the brains targeting scope :( Martin. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas
Yes, you CAN put multiple dipoles on one feedline. It's commonly done in the government and/or commercial world. It's often referred to as a fan dipole. The feedline can be either coax or open wire/TV twinlead. Picture two telephone poles (or towers) with the support points for the individual dipoles several feet apart vertically along the two poles/towers. Such an arrangement is sometimes seen at a National Guard armory or Civil Defense center. The dipoles -DO- interact and will need length adjustment, one at a time 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] wire antennas
I happen to have pictures of just such a beast at http://www.craigr.com/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=35. It's cut for 40/20/10 meters and works nicely on 15 of course. The KAT100 tuner makes it work on the WARC bands and even on 80m though not very well. Craig NZ0R K2/100 #4941 K1 #1966 KX1 #1499 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 4:41 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas Yes, you CAN put multiple dipoles on one feedline. It's commonly done in the government and/or commercial world. It's often referred to as a fan dipole. The feedline can be either coax or open wire/TV twinlead. Picture two telephone poles (or towers) with the support points for the individual dipoles several feet apart vertically along the two poles/towers. Such an arrangement is sometimes seen at a National Guard armory or Civil Defense center. The dipoles -DO- interact and will need length adjustment, one at a time 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] wire antennas
Scott, I use 'fanned dipoles' fed with a common coax - yes a balun is highly recommended. The secret to fanned dipoles is to get the ends as far apart as possible so they do not interact. Expect some interaction in any case, and tune them from the lowest band first. I have tried 5 bands - in a word, DON'T, unless you are willing to drive yourself crazy cutting and pruning due to the interaction. 3 bands is about my limit. One other point - do not try to combind bands that are close to the 3rd harmonic of the lower one on the same coax - that too will drive you crazy trying to tune them because the 3rd harminic frequency antenna will also present a low impedance feedpoint. In other words, stay away from combining 80 and 30 meters or 40 meter and 15 meters. I successfully use an 80/40 meter combination, a 20/15/10 combination and a 30/17/12 combination - 3 feedlines to cover 8 bands. Some are dipoles and others are inverted VEE. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi This is a little off topic, but I don't know of a better place to find someone that would know the answer to my question. Many years ago I used one coax to feed three different inverted V antennas all for different bands. At the time I thought they worked just fine. Worked all kinds of dx with the setup. I have been told lately that the unused antennas on the setup would pick up additional noise. Has anyone ever done any testing with multiple antennas on one feedline to see if they really do pick up extra noise? I'm thinking about putting up new inverted V antennas on 160, 80, and 40 meters and feeding them with one coax. Sure beats antenna switching and it always seem to me that the signal would go to the resonate antenna. I always used a coaxial balun in the feedline. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Scott N5SM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.2/692 - Release Date: 2/18/2007 4:35 PM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.2/692 - Release Date: 2/18/2007 4:35 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Re:Newbie question :160M module
Larry, The toroid cores are non-conductive, so if the bare wire of the end turn is tinned it is not a problem, BUT if you also bared the wire of an adjacent turn so you could have a one turn shorted to another on the winding, that is not good and you will have to rewind. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hello everyone, On the 160M module, toroid L1 .I managed to burn off just a little too much enamel insulator from 26ga. wire.Bare copper into the 1st 1/2 turn on the toroid. Am I o.k.? Or should I rewind? Tnx from new guy ,just starting out. W1EGJ Larry Wright ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.2/692 - Release Date: 2/18/2007 4:35 PM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.2/692 - Release Date: 2/18/2007 4:35 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Short while building
Boy I got a problem know. While building #006013 at alignment and test, part 11 i've had a problem with first step the counter changing rapidly. checked prob, and solder and parts . get a 4 MHz signal on a receiver at 4.000 MHz While checking VDC on control board Q1 - U7 I must have shorted out somthing. Now Ihave no light or any thing on LCD relays do not click when i push band or mode switches . Any thoughts on what i might have shorted out and how to check it? Thanks Tim ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 ATU low power indication
Hi all, Does anyone have any idea about the possible cause of the low power reading by the KX1 ATU? Thanks, Frank Hi, After having been off the air for about a year (moving house; other interests) I have recently fired up my KX1 again. When tuning up a random length of wire, I noticed that the output power indicated by the KX1 ATU was only 0.4 to 0.5 Watts (while SWR was good: 1:1.0 to 1:1.1). I attached a 50 ohm dummy load and hooked up my oscilloscope and saw a nice 24V peak-to-peak voltage on key down. That's 1.4 Watts and IIRC not bad for a battery-powered KX1 (battery voltage indicated by the KX1: 8.5V on receive, 8.4V on transmit). Why then the low power indication by the ATU? I have already taken the unit apart and have resoldered all solder joints on the ATU PCB, but to no avail. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance, 73 de PA4N ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 and Airmail2000
Hi all, I love my K2, and need to use it for ecomm work if ever there is an emgergency down here. It is a good excuse to bring it to the EOC, so it doesn't dissappear when the island I live on dissappears in the next Katrina. I have finally gotten on HF Pactor I with my K2. This endeavor has taken me a year to accomplish. I have my notes below if anyone else is interested. It ends up being just like any other digital mode but the setup is a little more complicated. Pactor I on PK-232/mbx/vers.7.1 for Electraft K2: 1) Com2 is Gold-x USB to serial converter on rear bottom USB slot. This goes to the K2 for CAT support in Airmail. In the PC, the parameters should be: 8,N,2, 4800 (control panel, XP). 2) In Airmail the parameters to communicate with K2 are: 8 data bits, parity none, 2 stop bits, baud rate is 4800. 3) Com1 is the Sakar International Iconcepts USB to serial converter rear top USB slot. This goes to the PK-232. In the PC (control panel for XP), the parameters should be 8,N,1,9600 (this is against the recommendation in the PK-232 manual, which states 7,E,1). 4) The PK-232 JP-1 pin should be removed so the unit will auto baud on startup. It is next to the battery. On this model (ser. 20987) the cover must be removed to access it. 5) In Airmail set the Modem to PK-232, Port to Com1, and baud rate to 9600. For radio connection choose “direct via Com port”, “Com2”, and baud equal to 4800, and radio type equal Kenwood. Also check “lock” radio. For audio tone check “LSB”. The center frequency defaults to 2210, which can not be changed for the PK-232. 6) Set the K2 to 50 Watts (with external fan), put the meter in ALC mode, and set the mode to RTTY. This mode is LSB but there is no speech compression. The K2 IF filters for RTTY mode have been set up for Pactor I. The filters are centered about 2210 Hz, which is what the PK-232 sends. FL2 has been tested and works well (about 1290 Hz). 7) The afsk setting at the rear of the PK-232 case should be set just high enough to achieve proper output when connected to a dummy load. No more than two bars should show on the ALC. This setting should only need to be done once. 8) To operate set AGC to fast, (AirMail should do this for you but check). 9) Airmail will default to LSB, so manually select RTTY mode, and then select the second filter “FL2”. Airmail will tune the K2 to the exact frequency. Regards, Steve, W2MY Corpus Christi -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.2/692 - Release Date: 2/18/2007 4:35 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas
On Mon, 19 Feb 2007 22:41:24 -, Ken Kopp wrote: Picture two telephone poles (or towers) with the support points for the individual dipoles several feet apart vertically along the two poles/towers. Such an arrangement is sometimes seen at a National Guard armory or Civil Defense center. A lot of them have been replaced by the now-ubiquitous BW All Band Folded Dipole - the same antenna that I use in an open-V configuration. It works equally flat over the HF (1.8-30 MHz) spectrum. -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Has anyone ever done any testing with multiple antennas on one feedline to see if they really do pick up extra noise? Hm, nobody answered this. My feeling (and it's not based on experiments) is that it would normally not be a problem. For example, if you have an 80 and 160 meter dipole on one feedline, then the unused antenna would be just as likely to pick up additional signals on the desired band as it would noise. So while it might have a tiny bit more gain, the s/n ratio wouldn't change. Having said that, the total signal and noise voltage delivered to the receiver front end would be greater, since the bandwidth of the combination of antennas would be wider. If the receiver's dynamic range characteristics were inadequate, there might be spurious signals generated in the receiver. For example, if you lived in Europe where there are enormous SWBC signals around 40 meters at night, then you probably wouldn't want a 40 meter dipole in parallel with your 80 meter one. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KX1 ATU low power indication
Frank, Yes, I have several ideas: Check it first on a 50 ohm dummy load to see if the power output as measured with your 'scope (or RF Probe) agrees with that displayed by the KX1. Your antenna is connected to the output of the tuner, and the displayed SWR is read at the input of the tuner. What that means is the SWR looking into the antenna itself can be a high SWR, but the tuner action matches it and the SWR at the input to the tuner will be 1 (or close enough). Since the antenna itself may have a high impedance at the tuner output, the RF voltage at that point by itself is meaningless for computing the power unless either the RF current at that same point or the antenna feedpoint impedance is known and used in the power computation. After doing the check with a dummy load,and if it was indicating correctly before, and now is found to be incorrect, look for a bad diode (1N5711) in the wattmeter section of the KXAT1. Then once you know the diodes are good, readjust the balance capacitor and Forward and Reflected trimmer pots as indicated in the KXAT1 manual. If you find low power when operating into a 50 ohm dummy load, you should look at the KX1 rather than the KXAT1 for the problem. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hi all, Does anyone have any idea about the possible cause of the low power reading by the KX1 ATU? Thanks, Frank Hi, After having been off the air for about a year (moving house; other interests) I have recently fired up my KX1 again. When tuning up a random length of wire, I noticed that the output power indicated by the KX1 ATU was only 0.4 to 0.5 Watts (while SWR was good: 1:1.0 to 1:1.1). I attached a 50 ohm dummy load and hooked up my oscilloscope and saw a nice 24V peak-to-peak voltage on key down. That's 1.4 Watts and IIRC not bad for a battery-powered KX1 (battery voltage indicated by the KX1: 8.5V on receive, 8.4V on transmit). Why then the low power indication by the ATU? I have already taken the unit apart and have resoldered all solder joints on the ATU PCB, but to no avail. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance, 73 de PA4N -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.2/692 - Release Date: 2/18/2007 4:35 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas
In a message dated 2/19/07 4:45:23 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: have been told lately that the unused antennas on the setup would pick up additional noise. If so, it will also pick up additional signal. Has anyone ever done any testing with multiple antennas on one feedline to see if they really do pick up extra noise? I haven't done any scientific testing, but in actual operation (FD), I have not found any difference from a regular dipole. The principle of multiple parallel dipoles is that the nonresonant dipoles present a high impedance, so almost all of the power goes to the resonant dipole. That principle works the other way, too, when receiving. I'm thinking about putting up new inverted V antennas on 160, 80, and 40 meters and feeding them with one coax. Sure beats antenna switching and it always seem to me that the signal would go to the resonate antenna. I always used a coaxial balun in the feedline. Works for me! How high of a center support do you have? 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] All-band folded dipoles
Here is what L.B. Cebik says on the topic of all-band folded dipoles. http://www.cebik.com/wire/wbfd.html 73, John Gibson, no8v A lot of them have been replaced by the now-ubiquitous BW All Band Folded Dipole - the same antenna that I use in an open-V configuration. It works equally flat over the HF (1.8-30 MHz) spectrum. 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas
Scott: I use several fan dipoles. Both use two elements. One operates on 40 and 30 meters (and I get 15 meters, 3rd harmonic of 40, free into the bargain, but the SWR is a bit above 2 on 15 m, and I must use tuner to match it to the K2. ). The other antenna operates on 80 and 20 meters (and I get 17/12 meters, 3rd and 5th harmonic of 80 meters free into the bargain, but the SWR is a bit above 8 on 12/17 m. I must use tuner to match it to the K2 on 17/12. However, the line losses are acceptable, and the antenna is very effective on all four bands. ) Several gotchas. The elements do interact. The shorter element will be non-trivially off from the 468 formula. The longer element is pulled much less noticeably. However, if you're looking for low SWRs of both bands, be prepared to do a lot of tweaking. I agree with other posted comments. If you use more than 2 elements, be prepared to do a very great deal of very frustrating of tweaking. Very important: Construct your antenna in such a way that the short element cannot wrap around the long one. If it does wrap, it will pull your painstakingly tuned antenna way off the desired resonant frequency. Other caution: Do not suppose that you can simulate a fan dipole on EZNEC. The condition of two parallel elements of unequal length very close together is one place where the computer model departs from reality. I do not use baluns, and it does not seem to have caused me any trouble. Good luck, Steve AA4AK At 04:44 PM 2/19/2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi This is a little off topic, but I don't know of a better place to find someone that would know the answer to my question. Many years ago I used one coax to feed three different inverted V antennas all for different bands. At the time I thought they worked just fine. Worked all kinds of dx with the setup. I have been told lately that the unused antennas on the setup would pick up additional noise. Has anyone ever done any testing with multiple antennas on one feedline to see if they really do pick up extra noise? I'm thinking about putting up new inverted V antennas on 160, 80, and 40 meters and feeding them with one coax. Sure beats antenna switching and it always seem to me that the signal would go to the resonate antenna. I always used a coaxial balun in the feedline. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Scott N5SM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 and Feedback
I have a Heil Clearspeech speaker and it specifically recommends a separate power supply for the speaker, do not run off the same supply as the rig. I didn't see the reason for that, so I hooked the speaker up to the same supply I used for the K2. It sounded pretty good a low volume, but when I cranked up the K2, I heard feedback. Figured it was time to listen to the manual and hooked up a separate 12vdc supply to the speaker, and sure enough, plenty of volume and no feedback. I didn't notice an issue with grounding. I realize this doesn't specifically answer your question, but I think you're on the right track using a separate supply. 73 Larry WA2DGD David Fleming wrote: I have a significant feedback problem with my K2/KPA100. When transmitting there feedback (sounds as clear and as loud as a PA system) through an attached external speaker. The only partial solution I have found is to use a sea rate power supply for the K2 and NOT connect the power supply to ground. This makes a noticeable reduction in the feedback.However, as soon as I attach the power supply to ground the feedback returns. It seems there should be a solution other than not connecting the power supply to ground. Suggestions and help will be gratefully appreciated. Dave Fleming KB3HCL ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] test
just testing - . ... - kn6bi ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Clothes line dipole
For sheer inginuity, I just love the clothes line dipole in QST a few years ago. If you have the facility to slide the feed point back and forth using a full loop (folded dipole), perhaps with a remote controlled motor, one feedline and one loop of wire will do a lot of multi-banding for you and be efficient. Sloper mode is the easiest mechanically where one end is easily accessible nearer the ground. David G3UNA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] more noise from multiple wire antennas
HI all: K2VCO has come closest to answering the question actually asked. I suspect that you heard this from contesters (like me) during serious Multi-Op/Multi-transmitter operations. Since these M/M stations operate all bands all the time, if a multiband antenna is used anywhere, it will be better at picking up signals transmitted on the other bands. Things in this very tough RF environment are often experienced in the shack as what we love to call noise. As Vic correctly indicated, it depends on the front end of the rig (the band to band filtering). Some older rigs used a common front end filter for (say) both 10 and 15. A big concern with these big KW stations is blowing out the front end of any rigs hooked up to multi-band antennas. That's why they typically use coax filter to cut off the frequencies for the bands that they are not operating on (at a M/M station, you typicall have one full station for just one band...never any band switching per rig). Even if not noise from a transmitted ham signal, those type of front end arrangements will pick up more QRN type noise, which generally is not too frequency specific (covers lots of frequencies). Unless you're in a very high RF environment, I doubt that you'll ever notice the extra noise transmitters. I'll leave the technical aspects of the front end of Elecraft radios to the Elecraft circuit gurus here (not me!). de Doug KR2Q ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] one more things (wires)
What you are propsoing is the SAME as using a triband yagi or quad with a common feed. Nobody ever worries about 'extra noise due to using tribander! :-) de Doug KR2Q ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 and Feedback
Dave, I would believe you are experiencing ground loop problems rather than feedback - yes, groundloops can introduce feedback of a type, but here in ham corcles we usually relate feedback to the RF type. Check by operating into a dummy load - if it persists, it is ground loop problems and not RF feedback. When you transmit (either keying or SSB speech), there is a varying load on the power supply - that varying load translates into a small varying voltage drop on the power supply leads which can couple into the external speaker (which I figure is an amplified speaker). Use a separate power supply for the speaker and things may tame down a bit. Check the resistance of the entire power wiring to the KPA100 (including the DC return (ground) lead) and make sure that resistance is very low (in the milliohm range), and be certain the connections to the power supply are tight and low resistance. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I have a significant feedback problem with my K2/KPA100. When transmitting there feedback (sounds as clear and as loud as a PA system) through an attached external speaker. The only partial solution I have found is to use a sea rate power supply for the K2 and NOT connect the power supply to ground. This makes a noticeable reduction in the feedback.However, as soon as I attach the power supply to ground the feedback returns. It seems there should be a solution other than not connecting the power supply to ground. Suggestions and help will be gratefully appreciated. Dave Fleming KB3HCL -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.18.2/692 - Release Date: 2/18/2007 4:35 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] wire antennas
In a message dated 2/19/07 7:00:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: A fan dipole is a single-band affair. It's is a way of broadening the bandwidth of a single-band dipole by simulating a fat wire using multiple wires. Typically the wires join at an apex at the center and spread or fan out at the far end with cross-wires connecting the ends. That forms larger effective radiator diameter that reduces the Q of the antenna; hence the bandwidth is increased. That's what I think of when someone uses the term fan dipole. It's not a commonly-used antenna because a simple wire dipole usually has adequate bandwidth on 40 meters and up, and in practice even a large fan doesn't broaden the bandwidth all that much; not enough to cover the 3.5 - 4 MHz range with a low SWR, for example. I disagree! Way back in the 1980s, WA3UZI and I did some tests on an 80/75 meter fan dipole. We used four equal-length wires with spreaders at the ends, making a sort of giant bow tie. The far ends were not connected, they just terminated at the spreaders. The spreaders were horizontal and the whole thing was up about 50 feet, fed with 50 ohm coax. IIRC, if the ends were spread about six feet, the antenna had an SWR well under 2:1 from 3.5 to 4.0 MHz. The wires were a lot shorter than one would expect from the formula - about 57 feet or so. It was built so that one antenna could cover 80 CW and 75 phone on Field Day without need of a tuner, since the rigs we used could handle 2:1 SWR with no problem at all. It took a bit of pruning and testing to get the wire and spreader lengths right. It worked as well as a regular halfwave dipole. However, like any fat radiator dipole, the resonant length is shortened a bit, which can be a help in limited space. Yup. Another approach is a cage dipole - multiple wires of the same length all in parallel, spaced around a circle throughout their lengths. I've not tried one because of the mechanical complexity compared to simple fan. Calculations (which I have not tried) predict that a cage of three feet in diameter is needed to get 2:1 SWR from 3.5 to 4.0 MHz. The big problem with such antennas is that they are heavier, more mechanically complex, and have much more wind/ice loading than a regular single wire. We had good supports at the old FD site, and the antenna only had to last a weekend. Even so, we only used it one year. Cebik has a good write-up on fan dipoles and their close cousin, the bow tie antenna, at www.cebik.com as part of his discussion of small beams. I suppose the best description of our antenna is a bow tie. 73 de Jim, N2EY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Bypassing and Filtering Measurements
I've added a new page to my web site presenting measurements of the effectiveness of various capacitor and capacitor/ferrite bead bypassing strategies. The page may be viewed at http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/bypassing.htm Jack K8ZOA K2 SN 5689 www.cliftonlaboratories.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Contesting with my K2
No, it stays low if your power is below 2W. I turn the power down when I leave the RX on and leave the room (don't want to be a stuck ditter) but have fotgotten to turn it back up. Tune doesn't work then. Bit I have also had QSOs with it left all the way down. I stuck the dummy load on it and mine is 375mw. 73, Leigh/WA5ZNU On Mon, 19 Feb 2007 12:04 pm, Mark Bayern wrote: Does that mean that when I use the tune button the tx goes all the way up to two watts? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] wire antennas
On Mon, 19 Feb 2007 17:54:25 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: 3 bands is about my limit. Yes -- beyond that, they get both electrically and mechanically unwieldy. One other point - do not try to combind bands that are close to the 3rd harmonic of the lower one on the same coax - that too will drive you crazy trying to tune them because the 3rd harminic frequency antenna will also present a low impedance feedpoint. In other words, stay away from combining 80 and 30 meters or 40 meter and 15 meters. This is also very good advice. W2DU has an excellent discussion of this on his website. Google to find it. It's in one of the chapters of his book. I successfully use an 80/40 meter combination, a 20/15/10 combination Agreed. I also have an 80/40 fan that has loading coils at the ends of the 80 meter element to allow it load on 160 (and, of course, the 40 meter element works fine on 15. That antenna also works quite well (and it's a 4-band antenna!). The loading coils are from HyPower Antenna Co. Google to find them -- they're a good solution for antennas on small lots. I also have a 40/30/20 that works, but is not as well behaved as the harmonically related ones, for the reasons noted. 73, Jim Brown K9YC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Bypassing and Filtering Measurements
A very nice piece of work Jack! Thanks for sharing it. I really like the photos - kind of like I was right there. I can confirm all of your conclusions based on my day job work. One additional thing to mention that some might not be aware of is that it is also good to parallel multiple capacitors of the same type/value. In a very fortuitous way the capacitance adds while the equivalent series resistance and inductance gets smaller and smaller ;) 73 ... Craig AC0DS I've added a new page to my web site presenting measurements of the effectiveness of various capacitor and capacitor/ferrite bead bypassing strategies. The page may be viewed at http://www.cliftonlaboratories.com/bypassing.htm Jack K8ZOA K2 SN 5689 www.cliftonlaboratories.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: LPFM transmitter wanted
Thanks Jim, On 2/19/07, Jim Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Sun, 18 Feb 2007 15:19:28 -0800, Rod Ai7NN wrote: Anybody have a suggestion or two for a decent quality rig that couples to an MP3/CD-player, stereo...etc. Only need to get the signal 50-100ft or so. A visit to places like Fry's Electronics or Best Buy will yield several Ugh, no such critter where I now live. VERY low power FM transmitters intended for use with personal devices like IPOD's. I'm using one to take streaming jazz from my computer to a few FM receivers around the house. These are good for about 100 ft. All work with Precisely what I'm looking for. (not sure way some posters thought I was after something illegal, I thought my request was clear.) non-defeatable antenna system. I paid $50 for the one I have, which carries the Macally label and an FCC sticker of compliance. I'll check this one out. Belkin's offering doesn't get good CNET reviews. C Crane has a unit as well. All available on the net. (I shop via internet mostly, see above, not sure why the early poster presumed everything on the net was illegal)) -- 73, Rod Ai7NN --seek to understand, then be understood-- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA800 and KPA1500
Does anyone know the status of the KPA800 and KPA1500 amplifiers? When will they be available? Roy Morris W4WFB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: LPFM transmitter wanted
On Mon, 19 Feb 2007 18:44:25 -0800, Rod Ai7NN wrote: Precisely what I'm looking for. (not sure way some posters thought I was after something illegal, I thought my request was clear.) With all due respect, Rod, you DID say LPFM. That has a specific meaning to us regulatory and broadcast folks - an installation covering a local area with power anywhere between 10 and 100 Watts, serving the public. What you really meant was a wireless FM adapter to which several here pointed you. Have fun with it. I, for one, prefer working PSK on 40 meters, which hasn't been too successful for me lately g . -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Contesting with my K2
In CW mode, I hold MODE to put the K2 in TEST mode when I'm not operating. That completely disables the TX in the event the key is bumped. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- No, it stays low if your power is below 2W. I turn the power down when I leave the RX on and leave the room (don't want to be a stuck ditter) but have fotgotten to turn it back up. Tune doesn't work then. Bit I have also had QSOs with it left all the way down. I stuck the dummy load on it and mine is 375mw. 73, Leigh/WA5ZNU On Mon, 19 Feb 2007 12:04 pm, Mark Bayern wrote: Does that mean that when I use the tune button the tx goes all the way up to two watts? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Contesting with my K2
That brings up a slight nit -- if you go into CW TEST mode the C blinks, but as you point out, you can't do that from another mode. That's ok, but when you go to another mode, it doesn't blink anymore, and TUNE won't work, so it sometimes leads to a bit of headscratching. (Plus, if you try to go into CW TEST mode when you're in one of the phone modes, it turns on VOX, which always gets me really excited and quiet until I can figure out how to turn it off). But you're right, this is the better approved way to temporarily disable TX. 73, Leigh/WA5ZNU Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: In CW mode, I hold MODE to put the K2 in TEST mode when I'm not operating. That completely disables the TX in the event the key is bumped. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- No, it stays low if your power is below 2W. I turn the power down when I leave the RX on and leave the room (don't want to be a stuck ditter) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] steel shed and balanced feed
Hello All, Here's another question for the antenna gurus. I would like to use a balanced feeder feeder for a multiband dipole. The problem is that my shack is in a steel shed and we all know running a balanced feedline near metal objects is a no-no. So, is there a way of getting a balanced feedline from my antenna to my balanced antenna tuner through steel? Also, my antenna is away from the shed so the feedline would not approach the shed at a perpendicular angle. 73 de David VK5DG K2 S/N 5492 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
