[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2007-05-26 Thread Kevin Rock

Good Evening,
   The bands were not happy this week.  When I first had a chance to make  
a morning sked my contact and I were unable to make it work.  We exchanged  
a few sentences but the band was just too weak.  The next morning we tried  
again.  He was stronger to me but could not hear my reply at all.  Upon  
searching SpaceWeather.com I found we had had a little problem in our  
protective magnetic shield.  There had been an opening in it allowing the  
sun to spew ions into our magnetosphere.  This did not help the bands  
any.  Today, though, I was able to hear folks on all the bands I tried: 80  
m, 60 m, 40 m, 30 m, 20 m, and 17 meters.  From what I have read I should  
have tried 15, 12, and 10 as well because the 10 meter beacons were  
accessible.  But, I was soldering away on a little Norcal kit to make some  
test gear for the bench.  One more setting to adjust and I'll have a  
frequency counter up and running.
   I had to go into town this evening to buy a few supplies.  On the way  
back up the mountain I noticed the Flowering Dogwood at the lower  
elevations were losing their flowers.  Further up they still had a few  
flowers and up at my elevation they are in full bloom.  I stopped along  
the way to pick a few False Solomon's Seal to make a little bouquet for  
Pat.  The house will smell a bit better for the next week or so :)  She  
and I used to clip a few of them in their season to take to her mother who  
loved their scent.  These are just getting started so the fragrance is not  
yet as strong as it will be.
   As I was clipping them I heard a snort and saw a buck in velvet eyeing  
me.  He then walked off into the alder glade to get some peace.  Looked  
like there were at least four points on each side.  The California Quail  
have been grouping up along the road each morning to see me off to work.   
A little lower I see a few grouse; I've not seen the greyish blue ones in  
a while, these are brown.  I saw a female pileated woodpecker Friday  
morning and there is a large, elusive bird just below my house.  I've  
heard him banging through the trees and have only seen a dark silhouette  
as he flees.  I am not sure what he is afraid of but I'd like to determine  
his species just for the record.
   If you are not doing anything tomorrow evening you may enjoy checking  
in to the nets.  I am not sure how well the bands will hold up but the  
contest is doing a good job of keeping the ionosphere charged.  That  
normally guarantees a day or two of good propagation :)  I may turn the  
rig on to 10 meters tomorrow morning as I do the wash and clean the  
house.  Never can tell when it will be open.  Good luck with propagation  
in your part of the world.


   Tomorrow:

1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help (as well as QSP/QNP  help)

   Please join us:

Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday 0200z (Sunday 7 PM PDT)  7045 kHz

 Kevin.  KD5ONS
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[Elecraft] PowerPort case

2007-05-26 Thread Mike Stunes
Anyone had any experiences (good or bad) with the PowerPort Radio Box?
Looks like a nifty little product, perfect for the K2, from what I can
see on their website (www.powerportstore.com) but I'm just wondering if
anyone else has anything to say about either the product or the company.
Thanks!
-- 
Immanuel Kant but Kubla Khan.

73, Mike
KCØTQX
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RE: [Elecraft] k3 pix from dayton

2007-05-26 Thread Greg
There's an excellent hi-res pic of the front panel on the Elecraft website.

73
Greg
AB7R


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Simon Brown
(HB9DRV)
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2007 7:19 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Bill NY9H
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] k3 pix from dayton


Is it possible to post them somewhere else? I don't have a snapfish account
and don't want the spam such an account generates :-(

Simon Brown, HB9DRV

- Original Message -
From: "Bill NY9H" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> here is a site with three good looks at the front panel  ...
>
>
http://www1.snapfish.com/slideshow/AlbumID=160267565/PictureID=3257417063/a=
13220814_13220814/t_=13220814

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[Elecraft] k3 pix from dayton

2007-05-26 Thread Ken Kopp

I'd be VERY cautious about "registering" on ANY site ...

Not me, No way!

Look out, here comes more SPAM ...

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [Elecraft] k3 pix from dayton

2007-05-26 Thread Simon Brown (HB9DRV)
Is it possible to post them somewhere else? I don't have a snapfish account 
and don't want the spam such an account generates :-(


Simon Brown, HB9DRV

- Original Message - 
From: "Bill NY9H" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>




here is a site with three good looks at the front panel  ...

http://www1.snapfish.com/slideshow/AlbumID=160267565/PictureID=3257417063/a=13220814_13220814/t_=13220814 


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Re: [Elecraft] k3 pix from dayton

2007-05-26 Thread Bill NY9H

here is a site with three good looks at the front panel  ...

http://www1.snapfish.com/slideshow/AlbumID=160267565/PictureID=3257417063/a=13220814_13220814/t_=13220814 




the box was closed. at this particular occasion/ otherwise I'd have 
some tight inside shots. ( if permitted)


bill  ny9h

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 options KDSP2 & KAF2

2007-05-26 Thread Leigh L Klotz, Jr.

Scott,
Even if you choose to install the DSP, the current draw of the KAF2 is 
lower, so you may want to keep it to swap in for those situations if you 
do much portable operating.  The KDSP2 can be turned off, but it starts 
up back on again when you turn your K2 off and on.

73,
Leigh/WA5ZNU
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Re: [Elecraft] RE: Elecraft Amplifiers

2007-05-26 Thread Bill W5WVO

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

IMHO I would like to see a "full kit" amp on the order of the
Ameritron ALS-600. A nice "medium power " amp with full QSK and a
built in power supply. I think this could have a rather large market.


Agreed! About 600-750W out, built-in PS, with 6M COVERAGE (low end of band 
only, 50.0-50.5) at full power output to go with the K3's 6M capabilities. I 
think you'd have a sure-fire winner. I would buy one if I had to mortgage my 
mother's house.  ;-)


Bill / W5WVO



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[Elecraft] K3 , K2, K1 or KX1 (WAS: K2; K2/100: How Long Supported?)

2007-05-26 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
The K2 and K2/100 were "world class" radios that needed apologize to no one
for their raw performance the day before the K3 was announced, and that
hasn't changed since the K3 announcement. 

I don't know if the K2 had the best absolute performance specifications in
all categories on the market either before or after the K3 announcement.
Specifications are only a part of what defines an outstanding rig. Anyone
who has followed the auto racing circuits knows that key races often are won
by drivers who were not in the car with the highest top speed or which
excelled the others in any particular specification. Skill and experience
behind the wheel makes a huge difference that obviates the most
sophisticated engineering the state-of-the art allows, and the best
state-of-the-art engineering can't make a winner without the skill to
exploit it. The same is true for the skill and experience of the person
turning the knobs of a K2, K2/100, K3 or any other rig. 

The K3 has lots of bells and whistles that many operators wanted, but will
it work stations someone with a K2 can't? Not necessarily. Not in the real
world. 

The difference between the K2 and the K3 is that they offer different
resources (that's a better word than "bells and whistles" when convincing
your spouse or significant other that the price is worth it). Those
resources will be valuable under certain conditions to certain operators,
but that doesn't make the K2 a "lesser radio". It's only a "different"
radio. 

The K2 does not need to apologize to anyone, especially not a K3, for
lacking anything important when it comes to the raw enjoyment of snagging
rare DX or having an enjoyable rag chew, just as the KX1 need not apologize
for its performance as a world class trail-ready rig or the K1 for its role
as a mid sized QRP CW rig. Each rig has a role to play. 

Each rig has its fans, as it should, because each rig is "world-class" in
its own right. 

Ron AC7AC




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Re: [Elecraft] K2; K2/100: How Long Supported?

2007-05-26 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
Absolutely not! We are still actively manufacturing and selling the K2 
and K2/100.


73, Eric  WA6HHQ


Wyn wrote:

What I am wondering, is (are) the K2 and K2/100 a 'dead radio(s)'?
Over, say 8 - x years.

73
Wyn, VR2AX

  

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[Elecraft] KX1 Red LED

2007-05-26 Thread Koaps
I wanted to change the white LED lamp to a red one.

I have some red LED's but not totally sure of their
specs.

One of them I have is the same size, clear but red
light, the Internal cathode and anode look the same
size as the white one, but should I do some measuring
with my DMM?

If so what should I look for?

I do have some red colored LED's but they are smaller
in size, from just a little bit to really small.

Thanks for the help,
-Chris


   
Sick
 sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's 
Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when. 
http://tv.yahoo.com/collections/222
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Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack Solder ??

2007-05-26 Thread Jack Smith

Here's how one reference describes the advantage of silver:

   *60/40 and 63/37 Solders*
   These solders are used in the stained glass industry and also for
   electronic component such as computers and communications equipment
   where a minimum of heat can be used to make the connection. For the
   electronics industry, silver is added to tin/lead solders to reduce
   the dissolution of silver from silver alloy coatings. Silver may
   also be added to improve creep resistance.


http://www.frymetals.com/products/tinleadsolder.html?product=tinlead

You may also recall the old Tektronix vacuum tube oscilloscopes built 
with ceramic strips. The notches were metalized with a silver-bearing 
compound and the scopes had a short length of silver bearing solder 
included with each scope. (I think that might have been 4% silver, but 
it's been a long time.)


Jack K8ZOA


Fred Jensen wrote:

Jack Smith wrote:
There is also a larger diameter 62/36/2, think it is 0.022" PN 
64-013, on a 1.5 oz spool.


There's probably a better source for 62/36/2 solder than RS, but it's 
decent stuff, unlike a lot of the things one finds there.


What's the advantage of 2% Ag over plain 63/37 Pb/Sn eutectic?

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2007 CQP Oct 6-7
- www.cqp.org
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Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack Solder ??

2007-05-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Fred,

Advantage: It wets more readily and coats the connection a little better.
Disadvantage: It is more difficult to remove components.

As far as I have discovered, there are no other advantages.  Now perhaps 
you can understand a bit why I prefer the 2% silver for SMD and the 
63/37 for thru-hole work.


73,
Don W3FPR

Fred Jensen wrote:

Jack Smith wrote:
There is also a larger diameter 62/36/2, think it is 0.022" PN 64-013, 
on a 1.5 oz spool.


There's probably a better source for 62/36/2 solder than RS, but it's 
decent stuff, unlike a lot of the things one finds there.


What's the advantage of 2% Ag over plain 63/37 Pb/Sn eutectic?

73,

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Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack Solder ??

2007-05-26 Thread Fred Jensen

Jack Smith wrote:
There is also a larger diameter 62/36/2, think it is 0.022" PN 64-013, 
on a 1.5 oz spool.


There's probably a better source for 62/36/2 solder than RS, but it's 
decent stuff, unlike a lot of the things one finds there.


What's the advantage of 2% Ag over plain 63/37 Pb/Sn eutectic?

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2007 CQP Oct 6-7
- www.cqp.org
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[Elecraft] Hats Off!! to the K2/100

2007-05-26 Thread STEPHEN W BANKS
Hello Everyone,

Just a BIG plug for the K2! 

I just finished up K2 S/N 5615 with several accessories: KPA100; KNB2; KIO2; 
KSB2, and KDSP2.  This rig - my second K2 - runs like a champ.  

Except for one loose wire clipping that found its way into the speaker cone and 
buzzed/rattled incessantly, it was assembled without a single glitch.  Ron, 
AC7AC, steered me in the right direction for a fix with his expertise on the 
subject of K2 speakers.

The KPA100 really smokes, figuratively speaking of course.  I'm still a QRP 
aficionado, but the extra muscle is a pleasure to crank in when it helps to 
"wake up" the band.

The K2 will, I hope, NEVER be discontinued, notwithstanding the K3 and its 
successors.

73 to all,

Steve Banks
K0PQ
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Re: [Elecraft] RE: Elecraft Amplifiers

2007-05-26 Thread w6jd
I have a problem with the Elecraft amps, i.e. hi-power amps have become 
commodity items.
I don't see that there can be any meaningful competition on the basis of price 
so you have to compete
with whiz-bang features. I've seen the amps, and they certainly look nice, but 
I don't see many, if any, features that aren't available elsewhere. Built-in 
tuner, PIN diode QSK, automatic band switching etc.
but nothing really "whiz-bang". I just hope that Elecraft won't get themselves 
in trouble with a product that will soak up a lot of resources and provide 
little return.

IMHO I would like to see a "full kit" amp on the order of the Ameritron 
ALS-600. A nice "medium power " amp with full QSK and a built in power supply. 
I think this could have a rather large market.
Basically a scaled down version of the 850 Elecraft amp.

Doug, W6JD
K2/100 #1626
K3/100 eagerly awaited


-- Original message -- 
From: W2AGN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> I always had mixed (mainly negative) feelings about the idea of a big 
> Elecraft 
> Amp. Elecraft started, and got it's loyal user base among QRPers. OK, so they 
> have a couple 100 watt rigs now, still not as far off as a 1500 watt amp. 
> 
> Sorta like if Hummer came out with a Hybrid. 
> 
> -- 
> --- 
> _ _ _ _ _ 
> / \ / \ / \ / \ / \ John L. Sielke 
> ( W )( 2 )( A )( G )( N ) http://w2agn.net 
> \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ \_/ http://www.blurty.com/users/w2agn 
> check out: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/QRPariahs/ 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Linear Amplifiers

2007-05-26 Thread Toby Deinhardt
"I have searched the reflector for information regarding the status of the 
Elecraft linear amplifiers without any responsive hits.  What is the current


Try:

http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2007-March/064829.html

and

http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2007-April/066994.html

vy 73 de toby
--
DD5FZ, 4N6FZ (ex dj7mgq, dg5mgq, dd5fz)
K2 #885, K2/100 #3248
K3/100 #??? (< #200)
DOK C12, BCC, DL-QRP-AG

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 TX Bandwidth

2007-05-26 Thread Greg
Roy,

You can use the AM 6 kHz filter for TX on SSB.  Not sure yet what the
ultimate TX badwidth would bemaybe somewhere between 4-4.5 kHz.

73
Greg
AB7R


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Roy Morris
Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2007 2:04 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 TX Bandwidth


I understand the present thinking is to supply the K3 with a 2.7 Khz 5 pole
(standard) filter on the MAIN RX board which determines the transmit
bandwidth.  Is there any other option other than the slightly wider 2.8 Khz
8 pole filter to get a wider bandwidth?  Would a variable crystal roofing
filter on the MAIN RX board accomplish a bandwidth of choice?  If so, will
this be offered?  Roy Morris  W4WFB
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 with KXAT1 power out fluctuation

2007-05-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

Some 'uncertainty' can be expected in the KXAT1 wattmeter indication, 
but not as much as you report - +/- .2 watts is about what you can 
normally expect.  It does take a little time for the power indication to 
settle down (the microprocessor is doing a lot of things during TUNE).


I would check the KX1 and the KXAT1 for good solder connections as a 
first course of action.


73,
Don W3FPR

John Shadle wrote:
Just wondering, but should I expect wild fluctuations in power out 
measured by the KXAT1 after tuning?


For example, I just installed the tuner and have calibrated it to the 
best of my ability. After tuning to a dummy load the power out on 40m 
shows values of 1.9 to 2.8 and pretty much everything between those values.


I checked to make sure nothing was touching anywhere or there were any 
shorts and didn't see it. I was just wondering if this is normal 
behavior (i.e., the wattmeter isn't that accurate) or if something might 
be wrong otherwise.


I'll post photos sometime soon of the final build for S/N 1601.

Thanks.
-john W4PAH


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Routing coax near CAT5

2007-05-26 Thread Vic K2VCO

Brian Lloyd wrote:

OTOH, RF noise from your networking equipment might get coupled to your 
feedline. Remember you are trying to listen to very weak signals and 
ethernet, while well-crafted so as not to radiate, does leak just a 
little. I would probably choose to route my feedline away from my 
ethernet wiring just to reduce noise pick-up in your rig.


A balun at the antenna would help with this too. RF from the network 
(and other local sources) will run up the outside of the feedline; a 
balun at the top will choke it off so it does not get to the antenna and 
flow back to your receiver.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] KX1 with KXAT1 power out fluctuation

2007-05-26 Thread John Shadle
Just wondering, but should I expect wild fluctuations in power out 
measured by the KXAT1 after tuning?


For example, I just installed the tuner and have calibrated it to the 
best of my ability. After tuning to a dummy load the power out on 40m 
shows values of 1.9 to 2.8 and pretty much everything between those values.


I checked to make sure nothing was touching anywhere or there were any 
shorts and didn't see it. I was just wondering if this is normal 
behavior (i.e., the wattmeter isn't that accurate) or if something might 
be wrong otherwise.


I'll post photos sometime soon of the final build for S/N 1601.

Thanks.
-john W4PAH


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Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack Solder ??

2007-05-26 Thread Jack Smith
Went to the basement and retrieved the empty spool (never throw things 
like that out - always good for odds and ends of wire). It's 62/36/2, 
with the 2% being silver. Radio Shack part number 64-035, and it's still 
shown in the on-line catalog at $3.99 for a 1 oz spool. 1 oz of solder 
lasts a long time. I do a fair bit of building and that's 6 months worth 
or more for me.


There is also a larger diameter 62/36/2, think it is 0.022" PN 64-013, 
on a 1.5 oz spool.


There's probably a better source for 62/36/2 solder than RS, but it's 
decent stuff, unlike a lot of the things one finds there.


Jack

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Jack,

Thanks for that info, sounds like good solder - I was looking on their 
website and only saw the large diameter stuff listed even in the 2% 
silver alloy.


Hurry to get some before it is gone - that is what close-out means, 
they do not intend to carry it forever.


73,
Don W3FPR

Jack Smith wrote:
Radio Shack has some very nice 2% silver 33%/65% 0.015" solder on 1.5 
ounce rolls. I picked a couple of rolls up on a close out and it's 
very nice stuff to use.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2; K2/100: How Long Supported?

2007-05-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Wyn,

I expect the K2 to be not only available new for some (unknown) time 
into the future, but for it to be fully supported by Elecraft long after 
that.


Yes, the K3 will outperform the K2, but those of us who have K2s already 
we can attest to the fact that the K2 is not a slouch performer.  8++ 
years after its general availability, it is still near the top of the 
list for performance.


73,
Don W3FPR

Wyn wrote:

Hi There,

What I am wondering, is (are) the K2 and K2/100 a 'dead radio(s)'?

Over, say 8 - x years.

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RE: [Elecraft] OT: Routing coax near CAT5

2007-05-26 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
John, NO8V brought a typo to my attention. I said W2AU instead of W2DU
balun. There more info about the W2DU ferrite bead balun at:

http://www.w2du.com/r2ch21.pdf

Thanks, John! 

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack Solder ??

2007-05-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Jack,

Thanks for that info, sounds like good solder - I was looking on their 
website and only saw the large diameter stuff listed even in the 2% 
silver alloy.


Hurry to get some before it is gone - that is what close-out means, they 
do not intend to carry it forever.


73,
Don W3FPR

Jack Smith wrote:
Radio Shack has some very nice 2% silver 33%/65% 0.015" solder on 1.5 
ounce rolls. I picked a couple of rolls up on a close out and it's very 
nice stuff to use.

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Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack Solder ??

2007-05-26 Thread Jack Smith
Radio Shack has some very nice 2% silver 33%/65% 0.015" solder on 1.5 
ounce rolls. I picked a couple of rolls up on a close out and it's very 
nice stuff to use.


Jack



Don Wilhelm wrote:

Rob,

The solder available at Radio Shack is of a larger diameter than I 
like to use.  While the solder is OK, the large diameter means that 
once it melts, you already have too much solder on the connection.  I 
recommend a solder diameter of 0.020 inches or smaller (I personally 
use 0.015 for thru hole work and 0.010 for SMD work).  For 
construction of the KX1 or other densely packaged kits, I highly 
recommend a small diameter solder so you can easily control the amount 
fed to the connection.


While there is nothing wrong with the standard 60/40 alloy, you will 
find the eutectic 63/37 alloy a bit better since it has no plastic 
state and cold solder joints are practically non-existent when it is 
used.


As for flux, most any kind of mildly-activated rosin core flux will do 
fine.


Mouser carries Kester solder and I like the Kester 285 for all-around 
electronics use.  Look at Mouser PN 533-24-6337-6422 .015 dia. or 
533-24-6337-6401 .020 dia.


Stay away from the water soluble flux (corrosive unless removed by 
industrial methods) and the lead free solders - lead free solders 
require a higher melting temperature and are extremely difficult to 
remove if component removal becomes necessary.


I have not used the RS soldering station, so I cannot comment.

73,
Don W3FPR

Rob Lundahl wrote:

Are any of the Radio Shack solder types acceptable for a KX1 build?

Also any opinions on their digital solder station 64-009?

Thanks in advance.



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[Elecraft] K3 TX Bandwidth

2007-05-26 Thread Roy Morris
I understand the present thinking is to supply the K3 with a 2.7 Khz 5 pole 
(standard) filter on the MAIN RX board which determines the transmit bandwidth. 
 Is there any other option other than the slightly wider 2.8 Khz 8 pole filter 
to get a wider bandwidth?  Would a variable crystal roofing filter on the MAIN 
RX board accomplish a bandwidth of choice?  If so, will this be offered?  Roy 
Morris  W4WFB
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Routing coax near CAT5

2007-05-26 Thread Brian Lloyd

So my question is, is all that RF going to interfere with my network
connection or my phones? Any thoughts or recommendations?


So far everyone has addressed the issue of your rig interfering with  
your phone and your network so I won't spend much time on that except  
to add that, even if there is RF on the outside of the coax it  
probably isn't going to cause a problem with your networking gear as  
that uses twisted-pair and RF would show up as common-mode cruft  
which will get canceled out in the ethernet coupling transformers.


OTOH, RF noise from your networking equipment might get coupled to  
your feedline. Remember you are trying to listen to very weak signals  
and ethernet, while well-crafted so as not to radiate, does leak just  
a little. I would probably choose to route my feedline away from my  
ethernet wiring just to reduce noise pick-up in your rig.


73 de Brian, WB6RQN
Brian Lloyd - brian HYPHEN wb6rqn AT lloyd DOT com


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Re: [Elecraft] K2; K2/100: How Long Supported?

2007-05-26 Thread Brian Lloyd


On May 26, 2007, at 8:24 AM, Wyn wrote:


Hi There,

What I am wondering, is (are) the K2 and K2/100 a 'dead radio(s)'?


IMHO they are not. I have an ICOM IC-706mkII (not a 'g'). It is 10  
years old. Compared to the K2 and Ke3 it is a dog. But it looks and  
works like new so I have no intention of getting rid of it. Any rig  
that works and works reliably is not obsolete. You can use it as a  
backup or to help someone else get on the air.


I am planning to buy a K2 for my school to let the kids build it. If  
it turns out that the ham radio portion of the science and technology  
program catches on I will probably get a K3 for the school and use  
the K2 as a second rig that the kids can check out and take home as  
well as use it for contests and field day.


And consider this: the K3 is a great radio and probably has better  
performance than the K2. But consider all the other brand new radios  
from Icom, Kenwood, and Yaesu. How does the K2 stack up to them? I  
bet you find its performance is as good or better than most of the  
brand-new radios being purchased today. That tells me it is anything  
but obsolete.


YMMV.

73 de Brian, WB6RQN
Brian Lloyd - brian HYPHEN wb6rqn AT lloyd DOT com


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[Elecraft] RE: Elecraft Amplifiers

2007-05-26 Thread W2AGN
I always had mixed (mainly negative) feelings about the idea of a big Elecraft 
Amp. Elecraft started, and got it's loyal user base among QRPers. OK, so they 
have a couple 100 watt rigs now, still not as far off as a 1500 watt amp.


Sorta like if Hummer came out with a Hybrid.

--
---
  _____
 / \  / \  / \  / \  / \   John L. Sielke
( W )( 2 )( A )( G )( N )  http://w2agn.net
 \_/  \_/  \_/  \_/  \_/   http://www.blurty.com/users/w2agn
check out: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/QRPariahs/
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Rhetorical question

2007-05-26 Thread Sam Morgan

lyle johnson wrote:

I have one two part question:
Is there anything ya'll didn't think of, or wish you had thought of?


Yes, and yes.

And part three "Is there anything you thought of but wished you 
hadn't?" the answer is also yes :-)



lets go for part 4
fill us in, what were they?
;-/

--
GB & 73's
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 options KDSP2 & KAF2

2007-05-26 Thread Bob Nielsen


On May 26, 2007, at 9:40 AM, Scott McDowell wrote:


Hi
I just received the KAF2  and the KDSP2 options for my K2 from the  
xyl as birthday presents (73rd).
I notice that both options have the real time clock. My question is  
what does the KAF2 option do
that the KDSP2 option doesn't do? Or, is there any reason to have  
both installed ?

Thanks
Scott N5SM



The KAF2 and KDSP2 cannot both be installed in a K2.  They use the  
same connector and provide some of the same functions (clock and  
audio filtering).  However, the KDSP2 has beat cancellation and noise  
reduction plus there are more filter settings, which can be varied  
via the menu.


73, Bob N7XY


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Linear Amplifiers

2007-05-26 Thread Chris Kantarjiev

> I have searched the reflector for information regarding the status
> of the Elecraft linear amplifiers without any responsive hits.

I seem to recall that, as part of the K3 announcement, Wayne said that
they had been pushed back in an effort to get the K3 into production.

73 de chris K6DBG
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RE: [Elecraft] OT: Routing coax near CAT5

2007-05-26 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
If it's good coax and you take some simple measures to ensure RF currents on
the *outside* are suppressed, there should be no problem at all, either
injecting xmit RF into other circuits or picking up noise from them. That
sort of thing is done all the time in commercial layouts. 

Good coax has dense shield. Cheap coax may have rather loose shielding
covering perhaps only 70% or 80% of the inner conductor's insulation. That
allows leakage of RF in and out of the shield. Normally it's not enough to
cause real trouble, but when you want good shielding you need a good, dense
shield. Coax braid should cover well over 90% of the center conductor. 

Since RF travels on the skin of the conductor, the RF currents on the
outside surface of the shield are completely isolated from those on the
inside surface (assuming it's good shield). In most Ham installations, RF
currents on the outside are hard to avoid, since the end of the coax near
the antenna is very close to it! When feeding a balanced radiator, like the
center of a dipole, it's often recommended that the coax run away from the
antenna at exactly right angles for at least 1/4 wavelength. That's to
minimize RF currents on the outside of the coax shield. Strong currents will
be induced on the outer shield by the close proximity of the antenna
carrying strong RF currents, but, if the coax runs away at exactly right
angles, the currents induced in the shield by one side of the antenna will
be exactly balanced by the 180 degree out-of-phase currents on the other
side of the antenna and no net current will flow on the outside of the
shield. 

Some guys are lucky, but I easily can count the number of times I've been
able to do that at home in the HF range: zero! 

The currents flowing on the outside of the coax can be suppressed though,
using ferrite beads that slip over the coax (the famous W2AU balun is just
such a device) or coiling the coax into an inductor of sufficient size to
choke off the currents. If you do that where the coax enters your home, you
should not have significant currents on the outside to bother any other
electronics. 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig Rairdin

So right now I run the coax from my HF antenna to a point just outside my
window. When I want to operate I crank open the window and connect the coax
from my rig to the end of the coax outside the window. I don't really have a
way to leave it hooked up all the time because I don't want to leave the
ground-level window partially open.

I want to run the coax into the house through the wall, up the inside of the
wall into the attic above my office, across the floor of the attic and down
the inside of a wall to an existing utility box that is where all my phone
and network connections are routed. This means I'll have coax running
alongside both phone and CAT5. Seems like a lot of RF.

I'm only running 100W. I suppose someday I might get some kind of amp but
it's not a priority. But I don't want to rule that out simply because of the
way I routed my antenna feedline.

I can choose a different routing for the feedline and terminate it in a
different box that's a few feet away from my CAT5 and phone lines, but I'd
prefer not to have to install a new box.

So my question is, is all that RF going to interfere with my network
connection or my phones? Any thoughts or recommendations?

Craig
NZ0R
KX1 #1499
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941
K3/100 < #200

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 options KDSP2 & KAF2

2007-05-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Scott,

Unless you do quite a bit of physical modification to the K2, you cannot 
use both of them - they both fit into the same physical space.


The KDSP2 has filtering with more selections than the KAF2, and adds 
noise reduction, and other neat functions unavailable for an analog 
filter such as the KAF2.


I prefer the KAF2 for CW because it is somehow easier on my ears than 
the KDSP2 - hard to explain, that is a very subjective assessment.  But 
for SSB, the KDSP2 wins hands down - the KAF2 only provides a low-pass 
filter for SSB while the KDSP2 has several quite usable functions as 
well as filtering in SSB.


73,
Don W3FPR

Scott McDowell wrote:

Hi
I just received the KAF2  and the KDSP2 options for my K2 from the xyl 
as birthday presents (73rd).
I notice that both options have the real time clock. My question is what 
does the KAF2 option do
that the KDSP2 option doesn't do? Or, is there any reason to have both 
installed ?

Thanks
Scott N5SM

_
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It’s free. http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGHM_MAY07


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 options KDSP2 & KAF2

2007-05-26 Thread John R. Lonigro

Scott:
I suggest you return or sell the KAF2.  You can install EITHER the KAF2 
OR the KDSP2, but not both.  They both go in the same spot.  I don't 
have the KDSP2, so I can't compare the two, but I believe most people 
agree it is superior to the KAF2, although the KAF2 works pretty well if 
you are operating mainly CW.

73's,
John AA0VE

Scott McDowell wrote:

Hi
I just received the KAF2  and the KDSP2 options for my K2 from the xyl 
as birthday presents (73rd).
I notice that both options have the real time clock. My question is 
what does the KAF2 option do
that the KDSP2 option doesn't do? Or, is there any reason to have both 
installed ?

Thanks
Scott N5SM


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Re: [Elecraft] Radio Shack Solder ??

2007-05-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Rob,

The solder available at Radio Shack is of a larger diameter than I like 
to use.  While the solder is OK, the large diameter means that once it 
melts, you already have too much solder on the connection.  I recommend 
a solder diameter of 0.020 inches or smaller (I personally use 0.015 for 
thru hole work and 0.010 for SMD work).  For construction of the KX1 or 
other densely packaged kits, I highly recommend a small diameter solder 
so you can easily control the amount fed to the connection.


While there is nothing wrong with the standard 60/40 alloy, you will 
find the eutectic 63/37 alloy a bit better since it has no plastic state 
and cold solder joints are practically non-existent when it is used.


As for flux, most any kind of mildly-activated rosin core flux will do fine.

Mouser carries Kester solder and I like the Kester 285 for all-around 
electronics use.  Look at Mouser PN 533-24-6337-6422 .015 dia. or 
533-24-6337-6401 .020 dia.


Stay away from the water soluble flux (corrosive unless removed by 
industrial methods) and the lead free solders - lead free solders 
require a higher melting temperature and are extremely difficult to 
remove if component removal becomes necessary.


I have not used the RS soldering station, so I cannot comment.

73,
Don W3FPR

Rob Lundahl wrote:

Are any of the Radio Shack solder types acceptable for a KX1 build?

Also any opinions on their digital solder station 64-009?

Thanks in advance.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 S/N plate,

2007-05-26 Thread AJSOENKE
FWIW - I wish I had my early production AC Cobra but the college  education 
it paid for is still worth slightly more than that car is worth today  
>$250,000. It was the SN that got the $$$.  But I do agree with you that  we 
>get 
pretty silly at times. I bought the K3 for the value of a super radio and  at 
times 
I wish I still had my original issue SX101A and HT 32B.
 
73 de WA6VNN, Al ( It's almost as bad as our  fixation on call signs, 
isn't it?  Must be genetic  )



** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Routing coax near CAT5

2007-05-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Craig,

Theoretically, there should be no radiation outside the coax shield, so 
you would not have a problem.


Practically, you may have common mode currents on the outside of your 
coax (that is a bad thing), so it would be prudent to install an in-line 
isolator (same thing as a 1:1 current balun) at the point where the coax 
enters the building.  Provide a ground path for the current to flow - a 
good low impedance ground, and connect the antenna side of the isolator 
(and coax shield) to the ground.


Lightning protection at the entry point to the dwelling is also prudent 
- PolyPhaser or other reliable brand of lightning suppressor devices are 
good.  Consider that you may have to defend your choice of protective 
devices to your insurance adjuster if you ever have a claim involving 
the feedline entry.


73,
Don W3FPR

Craig Rairdin wrote:

So right now I run the coax from my HF antenna to a point just outside my
window. When I want to operate I crank open the window and connect the coax
from my rig to the end of the coax outside the window. I don't really have a
way to leave it hooked up all the time because I don't want to leave the
ground-level window partially open.

I want to run the coax into the house through the wall, up the inside of the
wall into the attic above my office, across the floor of the attic and down
the inside of a wall to an existing utility box that is where all my phone
and network connections are routed. This means I'll have coax running
alongside both phone and CAT5. Seems like a lot of RF.

I'm only running 100W. I suppose someday I might get some kind of amp but
it's not a priority. But I don't want to rule that out simply because of the
way I routed my antenna feedline.

I can choose a different routing for the feedline and terminate it in a
different box that's a few feet away from my CAT5 and phone lines, but I'd
prefer not to have to install a new box.

So my question is, is all that RF going to interfere with my network
connection or my phones? Any thoughts or recommendations?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Rhetorical question

2007-05-26 Thread Larry Phipps
I suspect there will be a few beta units on FD, unless they are at a 
DXpedition ;-) We should have ours before the DX contest season starts 
though!


73,
Larry N8LP



Craig Rairdin wrote:

Is there anything ya'll didn't think of, or wish you had thought of?



How about shipping before Field Day? :-)

Craig
NZ0R

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Routing coax near CAT5

2007-05-26 Thread Vic K2VCO

Craig Rairdin wrote:


So my question is, is all that RF going to interfere with my network
connection or my phones? Any thoughts or recommendations?


If the coax is properly decoupled from the antenna there will be no RF 
on the outside of it. So it will be no more likely to interfere with 
anything than a water pipe.


'Properly decoupled' means that if you are feeding a dipole, for 
example, there should be a balun at the feedpoint and the coax should 
come away from the antenna at right angles to the elements for as far as 
possible. A vertical should also have a choke or bead balun at the 
feedpoint.


Finally, if the coax does not run at a right angle for enough distance 
('right angle' and 'enough distance' are relative to how much RF on the 
outside of the coax you can tolerate), you can add a choke or bead balun 
right outside the box.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Rhetorical question

2007-05-26 Thread Craig Rairdin
> Is there anything ya'll didn't think of, or wish you had thought of?

How about shipping before Field Day? :-)

Craig
NZ0R

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[Elecraft] K2 options KDSP2 & KAF2

2007-05-26 Thread Scott McDowell

Hi
I just received the KAF2  and the KDSP2 options for my K2 from the xyl as 
birthday presents (73rd).
I notice that both options have the real time clock. My question is what 
does the KAF2 option do
that the KDSP2 option doesn't do? Or, is there any reason to have both 
installed ?

Thanks
Scott N5SM

_
Make every IM count. Download Messenger and join the i’m Initiative now. 
It’s free. http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=TAGHM_MAY07


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[Elecraft] Radio Shack Solder ??

2007-05-26 Thread Rob Lundahl

Are any of the Radio Shack solder types acceptable for a KX1 build?

Also any opinions on their digital solder station 64-009?

Thanks in advance.


--
Visit http://oceansblue.biz
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Rhetorical question

2007-05-26 Thread lyle johnson

I have one two part question:
Is there anything ya'll didn't think of, or wish you had thought of?


Yes, and yes.

And part three "Is there anmything you thought of but wished you hadn't?" the 
answer is also yes :-)


73,

Lyle KK7P
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[Elecraft] K2; K2/100: How Long Supported?

2007-05-26 Thread Wyn
Hi There,

What I am wondering, is (are) the K2 and K2/100 a 'dead radio(s)'?

Over, say 8 - x years.

73
Wyn, VR2AX
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[Elecraft] Re: K3 push buttons

2007-05-26 Thread Don Rasmussen
Great Job Wayne es Eric - many of us consider these
things as very important even if we don't spend $12000
on the radio. 



Ted,

The K3's front panel switches do provide positive
tactile feedback, via integral polydomes. The material
we selected is rated for extended lifetime (many
decades, in this application), and the silver contacts
are fully sealed. As for the printed legends, they're
protected by a matte silicone hardcoat that's
impossible to rub off.

In addition to the tactile feedback, we provide visual
and audible confirmation of every switch closure.


73,
Wayne
N6KR
 

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[Elecraft] OT: Routing coax near CAT5

2007-05-26 Thread Craig Rairdin
So right now I run the coax from my HF antenna to a point just outside my
window. When I want to operate I crank open the window and connect the coax
from my rig to the end of the coax outside the window. I don't really have a
way to leave it hooked up all the time because I don't want to leave the
ground-level window partially open.

I want to run the coax into the house through the wall, up the inside of the
wall into the attic above my office, across the floor of the attic and down
the inside of a wall to an existing utility box that is where all my phone
and network connections are routed. This means I'll have coax running
alongside both phone and CAT5. Seems like a lot of RF.

I'm only running 100W. I suppose someday I might get some kind of amp but
it's not a priority. But I don't want to rule that out simply because of the
way I routed my antenna feedline.

I can choose a different routing for the feedline and terminate it in a
different box that's a few feet away from my CAT5 and phone lines, but I'd
prefer not to have to install a new box.

So my question is, is all that RF going to interfere with my network
connection or my phones? Any thoughts or recommendations?

Craig
NZ0R
KX1 #1499
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941
K3/100 < #200

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[Elecraft] K3 Rhetorical question

2007-05-26 Thread Sam Morgan

Wayne and the crew,
After reading your reply on something as basic as the buttons,
I have one two part question:
Is there anything ya'll didn't think of, or wish you had thought of?
;-)
--
GB & 73's
KA5OAI
Sam Morgan
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[Elecraft] Re: K3 push buttons

2007-05-26 Thread wayne burdick

Ted,

The K3's front panel switches do provide positive tactile feedback, via 
integral polydomes. The material we selected is rated for extended 
lifetime (many decades, in this application), and the silver contacts 
are fully sealed. As for the printed legends, they're protected by a 
matte silicone hardcoat that's impossible to rub off.


In addition to the tactile feedback, we provide visual and audible 
confirmation of every switch closure.


73,
Wayne
N6KR

---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K2: No 12m or 10m Transmit

2007-05-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

John,

The bandpass filter is still suspect even though you can receive, 
although the Low Pass filter is common to these two bands as well.


Rather than guessing, get out your RF probe and turn to the back of the 
manual - look for Transmit Signal Tracing, and follow those steps.  When 
you find a point where the signal is significantly lower than the 
expected value, you will have isolated the problem area. 
Straightforward and methodical testing will lead you to the problem 
faster than a bunch of guesses about where it *might* be.
Another help when one band works and another does not is to compare the 
RF voltages between the bands - they should be similar.
Follow the transmit path on either the schematic or on the block diagram 
printed on the schematic key sheet.



73,
Don W3FPR

John Graf wrote:


Hi, Folks,

I lost power out on both 10 Meters and 12 Meters.  Reception on those 
bands is fine.  Other bands put out full power.


Any ideas of where to look?  I would think that the band-pass filters 
are good if I can receive.  I'm not sure what else is specific to those 
two bands.



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[Elecraft] K2: No 12m or 10m Transmit

2007-05-26 Thread John Graf


Hi, Folks,

I lost power out on both 10 Meters and 12 Meters.  Reception on those  
bands is fine.  Other bands put out full power.


Any ideas of where to look?  I would think that the band-pass filters  
are good if I can receive.  I'm not sure what else is specific to  
those two bands.


Thanks!

John, WA6L

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Re: [Elecraft] Weller temp setting for KX1 build

2007-05-26 Thread G. Beat

Chris -

WHAT IS SOLDER?
Solder is a metal alloy consisting of distinct percentages of two or more 
metals. In electrical work, the alloy is usually tin (Sn) and lead (Pb). 
However, Silver (Ag), Zinc (Zn), and Antimony (Sb) are used for special 
soldering alloys. Solder that uses lead has a lower melting point than pure 
lead. However, some solders contain no lead.



 a.. Each alloy composition has unique characteristics, eg., melting point, 
hardness, and solid-to-liquid transition properties, and may or may not be 
eutectic.


 a.. A eutectic alloy is a composition of one or more metals that has one 
sharp melting point and no intermediate "plastic" stage. Non-eutectic 
compositions have a semi-liquid temperature range where the metal can be 
"worked" due to its plastic nature.
For example lead has a melting point of 621 OF (327 OC) and tin melts at 450 
OF (232 OC).


Alloying 63% tin with 37% lead forms a EUTECTIC that melts at 361 OF (183 
OC). NOTE: that this particular alloy's melting point is lower than either 
of the parent metals.


Please do not make the common mistake with your new adjustable temperature 
soldering station.

(Weller WES51, Hakko 936-12, Solomon series from Taiwan)

Temperature is ONE of THREE aspects for good soldering.
SIZE, PROFILE and TEMPERATURE

Soldering Iron Tip - The tip should be small enough so that the joint being 
soldered can be easily seen, but large enough to quickly transfer the heat 
required to raise the joint temperature to the solder melting point.   I 
prefer the prefer a chisel (screwdriver) tip profile between 1/16" and 1/8" 
(ETA, ETB, ETC) across the spade for general purpose soldering.  Smaller 
tips are available and required for small pads and surface mount components. 
The larger tip provides more heat for large connectors, lugs and large size 
wire as well as for desoldering using desoldering braid or solder pump.
a..  0.020" dia. (25 gauge/.05 cm) rosin core or smaller - Very small. 
Excellent for soldering very small printed circuit (PCB) board pads and hand 
soldering surface mount components. Too small for a general purpose bench 
solder. It can take excessive heating time to apply sufficient solder to 
larger joints. I keep both a .020 and .031 1 lb roll at the workbench..


http://engr.nmsu.edu/~etti/fall97/electronics/solder.html

The WES51 comes standard with the ETA - 1/16" screwdriver tip.
I highly suggest all owners also have the ETB - 3/32" screwdriver profile 
tip.
The ETB works very well with switches, connectors and large pads on PC 
boards.
When I use this tip, I can often reduce my temperature to from 700 to 650 
degrees


AVOID going above 750 degrees with very small tips -- significantly reduces 
tip life and requires frequent tip cleaning.


w9gb


- Original Message - 
From: "Koaps" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 8:47 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Weller temp setting for KX1 build



Hi Guys,

I'm getting ready to start in on my KX1 build but one
thing I'm a bit stuck on is the setting for my new
Weller WES51 solder station.

Can anyone using one of these things suggest how I get
the temp right?

I read the manual that came with it, but it really
didn't make much sense to me, and I thought it would
come with something that says set the dial here for
this temp.

I did get a roll of Kester 44 solder, .020, that was
suggested in the solder guide, I'm just not sure what
setting to use on the dial.

Thanks for the help,
-Chris



Yahoo! 
oneSearch: Finally, mobile search

that gives answers, not web links.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC





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[Elecraft] K3 pushbuttons

2007-05-26 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL

I never took the time to "notice" if they were "soft rubber buttons."
They felt fine to me and I did not come away with the feeling that
they were "soft" or "rubber."

I mean, they don't have a "click" like the old IBM XT keyboards, but I
never had a sense that I didn't know when the the button was pushed
(and I did push them at least "a few" times, esp the RIT/XIT and CLEAR
buttons).  :-)

Maybe someone else actually focused on the buttons.

de Doug KR2Q
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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 37, Issue 46

2007-05-26 Thread F5UL

Hi Tom
The absebce of 90/150 and the -25V should indicate a disfunction of the Xtal 
oscilator driving the diodes string

Check around Q6 (2N3904) you may not have any oscilation!
73
F5UL 



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[Elecraft] OPush buttons

2007-05-26 Thread Tadeyev

It may seem like a picky or stupid thing to discuss, but I see the K3 has these
typical 'soft rubber' buttons all over the front panel.

My experience with all the electronics I have with these type of
buttons/keys are very bad.

The distance they travel is minimal, and have no 'click point' making
it necessary each time to check if a command has been properly input.
They also suck up grime like dirt-bugs and the symbols wear off fast.

I'm sure the Elecraft people chose the best available of this type,
but I would feel better if anyone who was at Dayton and might have
pressed a few buttons could tell us more about that point.
73
Ted
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