Re: [Elecraft] K3 - SR2O

2010-05-27 Thread Art K6XT
Chris:
You do have Config: L-Mix-R set to A on one side, B on the other?  
(A   b) That should put one rx on the tip, the other on the ring. It 
does on mine.

-- 
73 Art
Allison, Colorado
Whether you believe you can do a thing or
not, you are right.  --Henry Ford.

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Re: [Elecraft] MH2 Microphone Issue

2010-05-27 Thread Hector Padron
Hi mate,I do have the MH-2 and certainly is big and PTT swithc is little hard 
to press but it stays there even my thumb finger moves,I don't have that 
mechanical problem  you have,I am sure some one on the group will come out with 
a solution and congratulations for your new K3,I am taking mine to a DXPedition 
to Peanut island here in South east FL,we will operating the CQ WW Contest in 
CW as W4K special call,73
 
AD4C
 


For a refined ham it is compulsory to own a k3

--- On Thu, 5/27/10, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF vk4bof.elecr...@gmail.com wrote:


From: Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF vk4bof.elecr...@gmail.com
Subject: [Elecraft] MH2 Microphone Issue
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Thursday, May 27, 2010, 2:08 AM


G'day everyone!

First of all, 
After having given my K3 its first HF hitout this last weekend for our (Myself 
- VK4BOF, Gary - VK4FD  Dale - VK4DMC) mini dxpedition for the World Flora  
Fauna at Undara Lava Tubes National Park in North Queensland, Australia I must 
say that I am more than impressed with my new K3.

It performed flawlessly and was a real pleasure to use, the MH2 microphone is 
however another matter.

Whilst its transmitted audio quality is excellent it appears that you must be a 
400lb gorilla to use the damned thing, the TX button is so stiff to use. :-)

And even when you get the button in, it must be only barely making contact that 
as soon as you relieve any pressure at all from the button, the radio goes back 
to RX mode.

Does anyone else have this issue?

Jeff Cochrane 
VK4BOF
Innisfail QLD
Australia
Elecraft K3 #4257
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Sidetone

2010-05-27 Thread Tom W8JI
Toby,

For me, sidetone or monitor level linked to volume setting 
is very distasteful. Depending on the signal to noise ratio 
and the type of noise or signal, I'm always fiddling with 
the volume. I pretty much always want one sidetone or 
monitor level, and want it independent of volume.

The only case I can think of where I might want level linked 
to volume is where I might have a poorly implemented setup 
with grossly different levels in speaker or headset. I don't 
have that problem at all because I have a separate external 
amplifier (MFJ-616) driving my speaker and I set the level 
on that, while the K3 and my other radios always match the 
level needed for my headphones.

As a matter of fact my headphones are always active, and 
bridge off the speaker lines at a selector switch. All audio 
lines are isolated with transformers.

http://www.w8ji.com/my_shack.htm

and someday I will have more at

http://www.w8ji.com/cables_and_wiring.htm

With a simple basic one radio system where I plug in 
headsets I would equalize the volume in headsets with an 
attenuator if they are too sensitive. I dislike having to 
greatly adjust volume settings when gong from speaker to 
phones.

I don't use the headphone jacks on any of my gear, I use the 
speaker outputs for everything. I have a switch the cuts the 
speaker in and out and the headphones are always on.

I think this is one of the half the people want it one way, 
half the other issues. It is very easy to build an 
attenuator or put a little effort into the speaker and 
headphone system, and there is no need to grossly change 
audio levels on sidetone.

73 Tom



- Original Message - 
From: Toby Pennington toby...@embarqmail.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 8:37 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] CW Sidetone


I know I have heard that  some want the cw side tone to 
work like it does,   but I have never heard why?

 You set the sidetone to a certain frequency and the volume 
 never changes.   It is not tied to the AF gain like most 
 rigs.

 I notice I have had to change the side tone when going 
 from headphones to speaker.  Perhaps some impedence issue 
 there,  but my phones are louder than my speaker requiring 
 constant adjusting of the sidetone.

 Several modern rigs I have owned have the AF gain tied to 
 the sidetone volume,  why not the K3?

 Toby  W4CAK

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Sidetone

2010-05-27 Thread Steve Ellington
This issue has been debated many times on the reflector and both parties 
have their points.
In my opinion, the K3 has it right BUT I need the sidetone level to be 
available at all times during cw operation without push/hold/tone. The 
steady tone thing drives me crazy if I'm in a QSO and need to change level. 
The pitch adjustment with it's steady tone also bugs me but I've gotten used 
to this. Now I'm permanetly crazy!
Steve
N4LQ
- Original Message - 
From: Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com
To: Toby Pennington toby...@embarqmail.com; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 6:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Sidetone


 Toby,

 For me, sidetone or monitor level linked to volume setting
 is very distasteful. Depending on the signal to noise ratio
 and the type of noise or signal, I'm always fiddling with
 the volume. I pretty much always want one sidetone or
 monitor level, and want it independent of volume.

 The only case I can think of where I might want level linked
 to volume is where I might have a poorly implemented setup
 with grossly different levels in speaker or headset. I don't
 have that problem at all because I have a separate external
 amplifier (MFJ-616) driving my speaker and I set the level
 on that, while the K3 and my other radios always match the
 level needed for my headphones.

 As a matter of fact my headphones are always active, and
 bridge off the speaker lines at a selector switch. All audio
 lines are isolated with transformers.

 http://www.w8ji.com/my_shack.htm

 and someday I will have more at

 http://www.w8ji.com/cables_and_wiring.htm

 With a simple basic one radio system where I plug in
 headsets I would equalize the volume in headsets with an
 attenuator if they are too sensitive. I dislike having to
 greatly adjust volume settings when gong from speaker to
 phones.

 I don't use the headphone jacks on any of my gear, I use the
 speaker outputs for everything. I have a switch the cuts the
 speaker in and out and the headphones are always on.

 I think this is one of the half the people want it one way,
 half the other issues. It is very easy to build an
 attenuator or put a little effort into the speaker and
 headphone system, and there is no need to grossly change
 audio levels on sidetone.

 73 Tom



 - Original Message - 
 From: Toby Pennington toby...@embarqmail.com
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 8:37 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] CW Sidetone


I know I have heard that  some want the cw side tone to
work like it does,   but I have never heard why?

 You set the sidetone to a certain frequency and the volume
 never changes.   It is not tied to the AF gain like most
 rigs.

 I notice I have had to change the side tone when going
 from headphones to speaker.  Perhaps some impedence issue
 there,  but my phones are louder than my speaker requiring
 constant adjusting of the sidetone.

 Several modern rigs I have owned have the AF gain tied to
 the sidetone volume,  why not the K3?

 Toby  W4CAK

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Sidetone

2010-05-27 Thread Toby Pennington
Tom,  I believe you are on so something the way you have your audio wired 
up.

Thanks  very much for detailed information and pictures of the way you do 
things at you QTH.

I am not using such an elaborate sound system,   just running the headphones 
direct into the rig.  Speakers are SP 20 Icom and the other is a Ten Tec 
307B.  Using this method of plugging the headphones into the pnones jack, 
and using the speaker in put on the rig for output,  there is definitely an 
audio problem when going from phones to speaker which requires and 
adjustment of the sidetone.   Another way around this is to have an MFJ 784B 
tunable filter and use it for both  both phones and speakers.  This way the 
volume comtrol on the MFJ unit will equalize all audio and it will work the 
way I would like it to.

Many thanks for your input!

Toby  W4CAK




- Original Message - 
From: Tom W8JI w...@w8ji.com
To: Toby Pennington toby...@embarqmail.com; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 6:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Sidetone


 Toby,

 For me, sidetone or monitor level linked to volume setting
 is very distasteful. Depending on the signal to noise ratio
 and the type of noise or signal, I'm always fiddling with
 the volume. I pretty much always want one sidetone or
 monitor level, and want it independent of volume.

 The only case I can think of where I might want level linked
 to volume is where I might have a poorly implemented setup
 with grossly different levels in speaker or headset. I don't
 have that problem at all because I have a separate external
 amplifier (MFJ-616) driving my speaker and I set the level
 on that, while the K3 and my other radios always match the
 level needed for my headphones.

 As a matter of fact my headphones are always active, and
 bridge off the speaker lines at a selector switch. All audio
 lines are isolated with transformers.

 http://www.w8ji.com/my_shack.htm

 and someday I will have more at

 http://www.w8ji.com/cables_and_wiring.htm

 With a simple basic one radio system where I plug in
 headsets I would equalize the volume in headsets with an
 attenuator if they are too sensitive. I dislike having to
 greatly adjust volume settings when gong from speaker to
 phones.

 I don't use the headphone jacks on any of my gear, I use the
 speaker outputs for everything. I have a switch the cuts the
 speaker in and out and the headphones are always on.

 I think this is one of the half the people want it one way,
 half the other issues. It is very easy to build an
 attenuator or put a little effort into the speaker and
 headphone system, and there is no need to grossly change
 audio levels on sidetone.

 73 Tom



 - Original Message - 
 From: Toby Pennington toby...@embarqmail.com
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 8:37 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] CW Sidetone


I know I have heard that  some want the cw side tone to
work like it does,   but I have never heard why?

 You set the sidetone to a certain frequency and the volume
 never changes.   It is not tied to the AF gain like most
 rigs.

 I notice I have had to change the side tone when going
 from headphones to speaker.  Perhaps some impedence issue
 there,  but my phones are louder than my speaker requiring
 constant adjusting of the sidetone.

 Several modern rigs I have owned have the AF gain tied to
 the sidetone volume,  why not the K3?

 Toby  W4CAK

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Re: [Elecraft] MH2 Microphone Issue

2010-05-27 Thread juergen
Hi Jeff

The button is a bit mushy lacking a positive action. 

Another problem that I have with the MH2 is its  curly cord. The curly cord is 
so stiff that it pulls the radio if you try and stretch it a bit. It just does 
not have enough stretch, even if pulled a small amount.

I like using a hand mic. What I suggest you do is try and getting an original 
Icom HM36 hand mic. This Icom mic sounds pretty good on the K3. It has a nice 
soft curly cord and the button has a nice positive smooth micro switch click.  
The current model HM36 is junk made in China, try and get an original Japanese 
made HM36 that came with the early Icom radios.  Just make sure you throw the 
Icom radio in the bin and keep the mic!

73
John



--- On Wed, 5/26/10, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF vk4bof.elecr...@gmail.com wrote:

 From: Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF vk4bof.elecr...@gmail.com
 Subject: [Elecraft] MH2 Microphone Issue
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Wednesday, May 26, 2010, 7:08 PM
 G'day everyone!
 
 First of all, 
 After having given my K3 its first HF hitout this last
 weekend for our (Myself - VK4BOF, Gary - VK4FD  Dale -
 VK4DMC) mini dxpedition for the World Flora  Fauna at
 Undara Lava Tubes National Park in North Queensland,
 Australia I must say that I am more than impressed with my
 new K3.
 
 It performed flawlessly and was a real pleasure to use, the
 MH2 microphone is however another matter.
 
 Whilst its transmitted audio quality is excellent it
 appears that you must be a 400lb gorilla to use the damned
 thing, the TX button is so stiff to use. :-)
 
 And even when you get the button in, it must be only barely
 making contact that as soon as you relieve any pressure at
 all from the button, the radio goes back to RX mode.
 
 Does anyone else have this issue?
 
 Jeff Cochrane 
 VK4BOF
 Innisfail QLD
 Australia
 Elecraft K3 #4257
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Re: [Elecraft] MH2 Microphone Issue

2010-05-27 Thread juergen

Hi Paul

What are your mods? Did  you just use a capacitor to roll off the bass?

Someone once told me that the Heil HC5 is sound transducer that was very common 
on PC motherboards. I lost the web link of the manufacturer, which is a pity  
since the HC5 seems to produce good audio on just about every radio that I have 
used. The only problem is that you cant buy the HC5 cartridge anymore. 


John

--- On Wed, 5/26/10, paulb xtr348...@xtra.co.nz wrote:

 From: paulb xtr348...@xtra.co.nz
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] MH2 Microphone Issue
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Wednesday, May 26, 2010, 10:53 PM
 
 
 The MH2 mic PTT  may be getting caught in the
 rubber surround. It is easy to undo the cover.
 Note that the PTT button only fits one-way, there
 is a cut away slide which fits onto the switch.
 
 For my own use the mic insert had a tad
 to much bass, it has been slightly modded here to
 suit. 
 
 regards
 
 Paul
 zl1ajy
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/MH2-Microphone-Issue-tp5106621p5107093.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] [K2] control board question

2010-05-27 Thread John Fritze
I started build one of the 2 K2s I ordered at Dayton (one for me and
the second for Linda K2QYL).  After about 5 hours I have the control
board done.  I did the resistence measurments as specified and all are
OK, except for U6 pins 29 30, the DIT and DAH pins.  The manual
specifys between 70-90K ohms, I have 95K on both.  I'm guessing that
is OK.  Or do I need to look for something fairly minor?

John
K2QY
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build - #6950

2010-05-27 Thread Mark - W5EZY


Steve KC8QVO wrote:
 
 Problem found. I did some swapnostics with a buddy's K2 and we traced the
 problem to the front panel. After going through all the resistance checks
 again my friend found the problem - U4 was backwards. 
 
 It took me quite a while to fix it. I used solder wick to suck out the
 solder. I am sure anyone that has done that on a 20 pin IC can relate -
 quite tedious to pull the chip without lifting a pad or pulling a plated
 thru hole!
 
 Steve, KC8QVO
 

Steve, you are to be commended.  Unsoldering a 20-pin IC??  Wow, you're
good!  My method is to just buy another IC and cut each pin from the old IC
and remove the pins individually; I feel that is much less risky to do than
trying to salvage the chip.  But, good on you, Steve, for doing just that.

Mark - W5EZY

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Build-6950-tp5091343p5108358.html
Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] control board question

2010-05-27 Thread Alan D. Wilcox
Hi John,
You should be fine. Take your time and enjoy the build.

Finish the one K2 before you start the other. It'll go a whole lot 
smoother when you know what to expect.

Also, I'd recommend you consider getting pre-wound toroids from Mike 
Morohovich ( 412) 481-2349 toroid...@earthlink.net. Toroids aren't much 
fun, and if the enamel isn't properly removed, any poor connections can 
lead to all sorts of grief.

Cheers, Alan

Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40)
570-321-1516
http://WilcoxEngineering.com
Williamsport, PA 17701 


John Fritze wrote:
 I started build one of the 2 K2s I ordered at Dayton (one for me and
 the second for Linda K2QYL).  After about 5 hours I have the control
 board done.  I did the resistence measurments as specified and all are
 OK, except for U6 pins 29 30, the DIT and DAH pins.  The manual
 specifys between 70-90K ohms, I have 95K on both.  I'm guessing that
 is OK.  Or do I need to look for something fairly minor?

 John
 K2QY
 __
   

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Re: [Elecraft] MH2 Microphone Issue

2010-05-27 Thread Mike
juergen wrote:
 Hi Paul

 What are your mods? Did  you just use a capacitor to roll off the bass?

 Someone once told me that the Heil HC5 is sound transducer that was very 
 common on PC motherboards. I lost the web link of the manufacturer, which is 
 a pity  since the HC5 seems to produce good audio on just about every radio 
 that I have used. The only problem is that you cant buy the HC5 cartridge 
 anymore. 


 John
   
Have you asked Heil at i...@heilsound.com mailto:i...@heilsound.com

73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] MH2 Microphone Issue

2010-05-27 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV

  Have you asked Heil

Yes.  Heil will no longer sell the bare elements.  One must
purchase a D-104 upgrade kit in order to get the element.  In
addition, Heil will not sell replacement clamshells for the
original Proset mic boom for repair purposes.

In spite of their claims, Heil do not care about customer
service.   The cost to repair a damaged ProSet is more than
replacing it with a Yamaha CM-500 and the ProSet would have
to be shipped to Heil rather than allow the user to make a
relatively simple change of mic element and housing.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

On 5/27/2010 9:54 AM, Mike wrote:
 juergen wrote:
 Hi Paul

 What are your mods? Did  you just use a capacitor to roll off the
 bass?

 Someone once told me that the Heil HC5 is sound transducer that was
 very common on PC motherboards. I lost the web link of the
 manufacturer, which is a pity  since the HC5 seems to produce good
 audio on just about every radio that I have used. The only problem
 is that you cant buy the HC5 cartridge anymore.


 John

 Have you asked Heil at i...@heilsound.commailto:i...@heilsound.com

 73, Mike NF4L

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Sidetone

2010-05-27 Thread Tom W8JI
 I am not using such an elaborate sound system,   just 
 running the headphones direct into the rig.  Speakers are 
 SP 20 Icom and the other is a Ten Tec 307B.  Using this 
 method of plugging the headphones into the pnones jack, 
 and using the speaker in put on the rig for output,  there 
 is definitely an audio problem when going from phones to 
 speaker which requires and adjustment of the sidetone. 
 Another way around this is to have an MFJ 784B tunable 
 filter and use it for both  both phones and speakers. 
 This way the volume comtrol on the MFJ unit will equalize 
 all audio and it will work the way I would like it to.

Hi Toby,

Because I use stereo diversity, I also have a set of 784 DSP 
filters in stereo. The frequency and passband controls in 
one adjust both. I used them primarily with my stereo 
modified R4C's, so the DSP filters follow my heavily 
modified R4C's around.

Whether I use the 784's or not, I still mix left and right 
ears into mono because I only have a single speaker. This 
led me to discover an interesting phase effect combining two 
receivers into one channel when the receivers shared the 
same oscillators. When using two antennas that have wide 
spatial separation, and by changing phase lag or lead 
between the two channels (either at RF or at audio), a 
signal can be totally nulled out or directly added.

I had a calibration chart for my antennas. I measured audio 
phase difference between the channels, and by using antennas 
several hundred feet apart I could resolve a difference in 
direction of a few degrees. It was easy to resolve the 
difference between eastern and western Massachusetts  from 
here in Georgia. I found this very useful for locating 
jammers, spurious signals from BC transmitters, or just 
nulling unwanted CW signals out while still hearing other 
much weaker signals on the very same frequency.

DF'ing unfortunately does not work with the K3 because the 
channels rotate phase in relationship to each other as dial 
frequency is changed, so DF'ing is out of the question. 
Nulling signals will work, but maintaining directional 
calibration is impossible. Someday someone smarter than me 
will do this in firmware, where the two receivers in the K3 
can be used to null a CW signal while still passing a weaker 
signal on the very same frequency.

Another interesting effect is nulling one's own transmitter, 
although for maximum dynamic range it has to be done at 
radio frequencies. Even with limited dynamic range it is 
possible to hear stronger signals while the key is 
depressed. The ultimate in QSK. If done properly at radio 
frequencies, it even works on SSB. I can hear stronger SSB 
stations while I am transmitting on the very same frequency. 
My own transmitter is S-9 or so, so I can hear anyone 
stronger than S-9 on my own frequency while I am 
transmitting.

There are many things that can be done with two identical 
receiver channels, or with RF phasing. :-)

73 Tom 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - SR2O

2010-05-27 Thread Iain MacDonnell - N6ML
On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 5:15 AM, Art K6XT k...@arrl.net wrote:
 You do have Config: L-Mix-R set to A on one side, B on the other?
 (A       b) That should put one rx on the tip, the other on the ring. It
 does on mine.

Assuming you have CONFIG:SPKRS = 2 also!

~Iain / N6ML
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[Elecraft] MH2 For Sale

2010-05-27 Thread Ron Gould
Elecraft MH2 microphone excellent condition, little use and a recent purchase.  
 $45.00 plus shipping.  Contact off list please.

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Re: [Elecraft] MH2 Microphone Issue

2010-05-27 Thread Mike

Well durn! I saw that kit, but it didn't say which element it was. 
There's no way to order from their website either AFAICT. I needed some 
of the foam pads that go inside the Pro-Set ear muffs, and had to do a 
phone order. I now have the CM-500 on the K3 and the Pr0-Set on the 
backup PRO II.

So the real downside of dealing with Elecraft is we can so easily get 
used to great customer service. :-P

73, Mike NF4L

Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
   Have you asked Heil

 Yes.  Heil will no longer sell the bare elements.  One must
 purchase a D-104 upgrade kit in order to get the element.  In
 addition, Heil will not sell replacement clamshells for the
 original Proset mic boom for repair purposes.

 In spite of their claims, Heil do not care about customer
 service.   The cost to repair a damaged ProSet is more than
 replacing it with a Yamaha CM-500 and the ProSet would have
 to be shipped to Heil rather than allow the user to make a
 relatively simple change of mic element and housing.

 73,

 ... Joe, W4TV

 On 5/27/2010 9:54 AM, Mike wrote:
   
 juergen wrote:
 
 Hi Paul

 What are your mods? Did  you just use a capacitor to roll off the
 bass?

 Someone once told me that the Heil HC5 is sound transducer that was
 very common on PC motherboards. I lost the web link of the
 manufacturer, which is a pity  since the HC5 seems to produce good
 audio on just about every radio that I have used. The only problem
 is that you cant buy the HC5 cartridge anymore.


 John

   
 Have you asked Heil at i...@heilsound.commailto:i...@heilsound.com

 73, Mike NF4L

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[Elecraft] K3 144 MHz module - how to make it work?

2010-05-27 Thread Gil WA5YKK
   An appeal to anyone - I have my 2 meter module installed in my K3, 
but the instruction manual leaves out the steps on how to set the works 
up for repeaters and offsets, tone accesses. Does anyone have any idea 
of where to find a logical sequence of steps to do the job, or is this a 
case of using some digital magic wand?

Thanks for any input.

73's
Gil WA5YKK
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 144 MHz module - how to make it work?

2010-05-27 Thread Lyle Johnson

An appeal to anyone - I have my 2 meter module installed in my K3, 
 but the instruction manual leaves out the steps on how to set the works 
 up for repeaters and offsets, tone accesses.


Please see the FM Operation section in the K3 Owner's Manual.

73,

Lyle KK7P
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 144 MHz module - how to make it work?

2010-05-27 Thread Grant Youngman
I believe you will find what you need in the K3 ops manual, not the K144XV 
manual.

Grant/NQ5T


On May 27, 2010, at 11:13 AM, Gil WA5YKK wrote:

   An appeal to anyone - I have my 2 meter module installed in my K3, 
 but the instruction manual leaves out the steps on how to set the works 
 up for repeaters and offsets, tone accesses. Does anyone have any idea 
 of where to find a logical sequence of steps to do the job, or is this a 
 case of using some digital magic wand?
 
 Thanks for any input.
 
 73's
 Gil WA5YKK
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - SR2O

2010-05-27 Thread Chris G3SJJ
That's it!! I had forgotten about that menu setting. Works properly now. 
I can detect some low level crosstalk but I suspect less than the 
FT1kMP. Will check with some big sigs in WPX.

Thanks for all the responses.

Chris G3SJJ


Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
 Make sure you have that you don't have CONFIG: L--MIX--R set to
 something other than A   b.  Possibilities are A   b,  Ab   b, A
 Ab, Ab  Ab.  Also make sure that you have CONFIG: SUB AF set to nor.

 Also it is possible to set L-MIX-R via programming over the serial
 line from a program, so it could have been left in this state from
 running a logger, etc.

 If those are correct, make sure you don't have a wiring error.  The
 headphone channels with the above settings are completely separate on
 my K3.

 73, Guy.

 On Wed, May 26, 2010 at 4:14 PM, Chris G3SJJ g3...@btinternet.com wrote:
   
 I am trying to set up my K3 for FD here in Eu in 10 days time. I have
 successfully used SR2O in the past with FT1kMPs but so far not with the
 K3. I have a splitter box which takes both Rx audio channels from the
 headphone socket and splits to one headset for main rx and another with
 sub rx. Neither operator should hear the other rx. This works perfectly
 with the FT1kMP but so far I can't get it to work with the K3. Any
 suggestions?

 Chris G3SJJ
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Re: [Elecraft] MH2 Microphone Issue

2010-05-27 Thread Stephen Prior
Jeff

At the suggestion of Ian GM3SEK, I removed the spring under the ptt and cut
a bit off it before stretching back to its original length.  It was a bit
fiddly but not difficult.  Dropped it more than once!

The ptt is now much easier to use but as others have remarked, it has no
positive tactile feedback - it needs a click or similar. A shame, since the
quality of the audio is very good, although my voice prefers the MD2.

73 Stephen G4SJP


On 27/05/2010 03:08, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF vk4bof.elecr...@gmail.com
wrote:

 
 G'day everyone!
 
 First of all, 
 After having given my K3 its first HF hitout this last weekend for our (Myself
 - VK4BOF, Gary - VK4FD  Dale - VK4DMC) mini dxpedition for the World Flora 
 Fauna at Undara Lava Tubes National Park in North Queensland, Australia I must
 say that I am more than impressed with my new K3.
 
 It performed flawlessly and was a real pleasure to use, the MH2 microphone is
 however another matter.
 
 Whilst its transmitted audio quality is excellent it appears that you must be
 a 400lb gorilla to use the damned thing, the TX button is so stiff to use. :-)
 
 And even when you get the button in, it must be only barely making contact
 that as soon as you relieve any pressure at all from the button, the radio
 goes back to RX mode.
 
 Does anyone else have this issue?
 
 Jeff Cochrane 
 VK4BOF
 Innisfail QLD
 Australia
 Elecraft K3 #4257
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[Elecraft] MH2 Microphone

2010-05-27 Thread Ron Gould
The MH2 microphone listed earlier today has been sold to Derek Brown, WF4I 
pending receipt of funds, Thanks Derek!
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[Elecraft] [K3] K3NA on 5 pole vs 8 pole filters

2010-05-27 Thread Alfred Frugoli
Fellow Elecrafters,

I remember reading a comparison by I think K3NA on the differences between 5
pole and 8 pole filters that eventually lead me to stick with the 5 pole
filters.  Does anybody know what I'm thinking of, because Google searches,
and Nabble searches of the Elecraft archives aren't turning anything up, and
I've gotten no response from direct contact with K3NA (maybe I have an old
e-mail).

73 de Al, KE1FO

K3 #3055
K3 #4094
-
Check out my Amateur Radio Contesting blog at ke1fo.wordpress.com.
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[Elecraft] KPA100 problem

2010-05-27 Thread Luca Valer
Hello from north Italy.
I have a K2 sn 6822.
With my 1nd KPA100 it's ok (Rev F Oct 2009)
With my 2nd KPA100 (Rev B June 2003) , I have a little problem.

If  11 WATT work fine.

If  11 WATT, I have HI CUR on display, for a bit moment, 5 watt on 
display is reality abt 15 watt

Need I upgrade my KPA100 ?
Let me konw
Tnx vy 73
in3acv, Luva


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 fan noise, part XXLIV

2010-05-27 Thread Joe Planisky
Since the responses to my inquiry about K3 fan brands/models have  
virtually stopped, I thought I'd post the results.  There are indeed  
at least 2 different fans in use in K3s:

Elina HDF6015L-12LB-1 and UTEC AT6015L-12L2B-ND2 and ND5

The Elina fans are made by Inaba Denki Sangyo, a Japanese company.   
You can find specs for this fan at 
http://www.europeanthermodynamics.com/FansBlowers/elina%20fan_eng.pdf

The UTEC fans are made by United Thermal Engineering Corp. Their  
office is in San Jose, CA. but their factories are in Japan, Taiwan,  
and China. 
http://www.utecusa.com/products/pdffiles/pid_1-45-152_%28SPEC%29AT6015L-12L2B%20ND1%2812-22-08%29.pdf

According to the published specs, the UTEC fans have a slightly higher  
rated speed (3000 rpm vs 2800 rpm), more airflow (15.4 cfm vs 10.6  
cfm), higher static pressure (2.21mm vs 1.5mm),and higher noise (24.8  
dBA vs 21 dBA) than the Elina fans.  They also operate over a wider  
range of voltages than the Elina fans (6-13.8v vs 10.2-13.8v).  Both  
use ball bearings.  Based just on the specs, I would expect the UTEC  
fans to be slightly more powerful and slightly louder.

 From the responses I received, it looks like the Elina fans were used  
on earlier K3s with serial numbers  900 or so.

I received responses from 13 people (including myself), covering 13  
K3s.  If the reporter used words or phrases like quiet, silent,  
never hear them, I counted their response as quiet.  If they used  
words or phrases like loud, annoying, I can hear them, I counted  
their response as loud

UTEC Quiet   3
UTEC Loud:   4
Elina Quiet: 6
Elina Loud:  0

With such a small sample of self-reported anecdotes of a subjective  
perception, the results of this little survey are statistically  
virtually meaningless.  However, they do suggest a direction for  
further research in that no one reported loud Elina fans.

I may have a chance to do some side-by-side comparisons between my K3  
and an earlier SN K3 in a few weeks.  If that turns up anything  
interesting, I'll report it here.

Thanks to everyone who took the time and effort to respond to my  
request.

73
--
Joe KB8AP


On May 23, 2010, at 9:19 AM, Joe Planisky wrote:

 The topic of K3 fan noise seems to come up every now and then, and
 each time it does there's a chorus of people who say the fans in their
 K3 are absolutely silent, and an equal chorus of people who say the
 fans are clearly audible.

 ...

 However, I'm also wondering if Elecraft has changed brands or models
 of fans from time to time.  It's possible that some brands/models
 might be quieter than others.

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[Elecraft] K3 mods and updates

2010-05-27 Thread Dan Atchison
I see in the new K3 Assembly manual that there are two new items added since 
S/N 1567 was born.? The first is for thermal pads that attach to the underside 
of the LPA transistors where they meet the bottom cover (page 62).? The second 
is aluminum metal plates/shields for the synthesizer modules of which I have 
two, one each for the main unit and subRX (page 50).? 
 
 Are there any upgrade mods available to get these?
 
   
 
   Dan -- N3ND
 
  
  

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[Elecraft] K1 build alignment.

2010-05-27 Thread Dominic Baines
Ok this has me a bit stumped...

First I could get 40m working on RX and TX, but 20m was deaf as a post and no 
TX, now it's the other way around. I needed to tweak L7 and L8.

40m is band 1 and 20m is band 2.

Anyone else had this got any ideas?  Yes been through 62 and the relays do 
switch.
None of L1, L2 L5 and L6 seem to be open circuit.
C's all still C and not shorted (lifted leads, tested and resoldered).
I reset the 40m L completely withdrwaing the cores and then going through 
testing with the screwed in with various turns but the signal generator signals 
are not detected now. But are on another radio.
I have checked continuity and for solder bridges etc... and the filter board 
default without power is band 1.

Short of sticking the filter board on a VNA as J7 pin 1-8 should be the BPF, J6 
pin 1-7 should be the pre-mix BPF and J8 ping 1 and 8 should be the LPF (No ATU 
so J2 bridged). Interested in ideas.

BTW FT817 will easily pick out a 1uV signal but the K1 cannot seem to manage 
anything until about 2.5uV but the spec sheet says 0.15uV which seems something 
is wrong is this usual?
How am I measuring the signal: callibrated 50uV signals from xtal oscillator, 
step attenuator and an oscilloscope.

72

Dom
M1KTA



  
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 problem

2010-05-27 Thread Don Wilhelm
Luca,

I believe you also have a problem at 11 watts.  If you check the actual 
power I believe you will find it is always high (100 watts) at any 
setting of the power control above 11 watts.

The problem is that the power output from the KPA100 is not being 
reported to the base K2 microprocessor.  Yes, this also happens at low 
power.  The result is that the microprocessor detects no power output 
and ramps up the drive to full in an attempt to obtain more power.

The most likely problem source is that the diodes D16 and D17 have been 
damaged - probable cause is a lightning (or rain or wind or snow) 
static.  The normal recommendation is to remove the antenna when not in 
use.  Other possible failure points are U5 and U6 in the KPA100.

If you do find the diodes damaged, it may be a wise step to put a 100 
uHy inductor in your antenna system, located near the K2.  Inside an 
antenna switch or relay box is one possibility, but lacking that, put 
the inductor inside the barrel of a PL-259 connector (one inductor lead 
to the center conductor, the other to the shell), then connect that 
assembly to the feedline using a coax TEE adapter.  I will not guarantee 
that the added inductor will prevent all future diode failures, but it 
will reduce the probability of failure.

73,
Don W3FPR

73,
Don W3FPR

Luca Valer wrote:
 Hello from north Italy.
 I have a K2 sn 6822.
 With my 1nd KPA100 it's ok (Rev F Oct 2009)
 With my 2nd KPA100 (Rev B June 2003) , I have a little problem.

 If  11 WATT work fine.

 If  11 WATT, I have HI CUR on display, for a bit moment, 5 watt on 
 display is reality abt 15 watt

 Need I upgrade my KPA100 ?
 Let me konw
 Tnx vy 73
 in3acv, Luva


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 build alignment.

2010-05-27 Thread Don Wilhelm
Dom,

Yes, that K1 would appear to be deaf - most can hear a -130 dBm signal 
well above the receiver noise floor.
To troubleshoot it, use your oscilloscope (with a 10X probe).  First 
check the crystal oscillator output on each band  You can check that at 
the 2 band board P1 pin 4.  You should have at least 200 mV peak to peak 
on each band.
If that test is successful, put the oscilloscope probe on P1 pin 6 and 
tune the PreMix Bandpass Filters for maximum deflection on the 'scope.  
Note, that will give you an almost correct setting of the inductors, 
but you will want to peak them during transmit while monitoring the RF 
output with your scope across the dummy load.

OK, the PreMixer bandpass is adjusted close enough to go on to the next 
step - this time you will have to be in TUNE.
Monitor the 2 band board P2 pin 8 with your scope and adjust the 
inductors for maximum RF.  If the power output goes above 3 or 4 watts, 
tap the WPM- Button to bring it down - you cannot observe the peak if 
the power level is anywhere near the maximum because the transmit stages 
hit their maximum gain, so keep the power output low.

If you find output at the antenna in the step above, connect the 
oscilloscope across the dummy load and re-peak the inductors - you will 
then be done tuning the bandpass filters - if there is subsequent 
trouble, have faith in the tuning of those filters and look for another 
problem.

I believe what you will find in the end is a bad solder connection 
somewhere.  If it worked at one time and then stopped working, that is 
usually an indication of an intermittent solder joint.

73,
Don W3FPR

Dominic Baines wrote:
 Ok this has me a bit stumped...

 First I could get 40m working on RX and TX, but 20m was deaf as a post and no 
 TX, now it's the other way around. I needed to tweak L7 and L8.

 40m is band 1 and 20m is band 2.

 Anyone else had this got any ideas?  Yes been through 62 and the relays do 
 switch.
 None of L1, L2 L5 and L6 seem to be open circuit.
 C's all still C and not shorted (lifted leads, tested and resoldered).
 I reset the 40m L completely withdrwaing the cores and then going through 
 testing with the screwed in with various turns but the signal generator 
 signals are not detected now. But are on another radio.
 I have checked continuity and for solder bridges etc... and the filter board 
 default without power is band 1.

 Short of sticking the filter board on a VNA as J7 pin 1-8 should be the BPF, 
 J6 pin 1-7 should be the pre-mix BPF and J8 ping 1 and 8 should be the LPF 
 (No ATU so J2 bridged). Interested in ideas.

 BTW FT817 will easily pick out a 1uV signal but the K1 cannot seem to manage 
 anything until about 2.5uV but the spec sheet says 0.15uV which seems 
 something is wrong is this usual?
 How am I measuring the signal: callibrated 50uV signals from xtal oscillator, 
 step attenuator and an oscilloscope.

 72

 Dom
 M1KTA

   
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 mods and updates

2010-05-27 Thread lstavenhagen

Interesting my synthesizer module has the metal cover over it, but there
wasn't the instructions to add the thermal pads on the power transistors
(can't remember my K3's serial no. offhand, but I built it a couple months
ago).

After the misery of having to take the bottom panel off my K2, it was a
welcome relief that I didn't have to mess with thermal pads and stuff with
my K3 hi hi, just screw the bottom cover on and go! 

Should I add the thermal pads in any case?

73,
LS
W5QD
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View this message in context: 
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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3NA on 5 pole vs 8 pole filters

2010-05-27 Thread Bill W4ZV


Alfred Frugoli wrote:
 
 I remember reading a comparison by I think K3NA on the differences between
 5
 pole and 8 pole filters that eventually lead me to stick with the 5 pole
 filters. 
 

Eric and I are both ex-Orion users, which worked well with 4-pole filters so
I concluded 5-poles would be sufficient in the K3.  After receiving my first
K3 I discovered it had a much lower hardware AGC threshold. This led to the
HAGC mod which was implemented around S/N 350, but I still don't think the
threshold is as high as Orion's.  Therefore the steeper skirts in the 8-pole
filters are necessary to prevent AGC pumping from close-in strong signals. 
I've since switched from all 5-pole 500s to all 8-pole 500s (Inrads) in both
of my units.  

I suspect the K3 could be improved without other harmful effects by raising
the AGC threshold a little more.  Someday when I have nothing better to do I
may try some experiments to see.  The DSP filters in both rigs are probably
similar but the lower AGC threshold in the K3 makes it more susceptible to
strong adjacent signals if you only use 5-pole filters.  However if you
don't operate in extreme environments like 160 contests you may never notice
any difference.

73,  Bill
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 144 MHz module - how to make it work?

2010-05-27 Thread Don Cunningham
I'm sure glad you asked that question, Gil.  I just got my 2m module in 
today, and would have had to do the same!!  How'd yours install and work??
73,
Don, WB5HAK 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build - #6950

2010-05-27 Thread Bill K9YEQ
Steve,

This is the reason I spent my money on the Hakko de-soldering gun.  I was a
test builder and found myself doing quite a number of mods.  I also worked
on some non  - Elecraft boards of cheaper quality... and the de-soldering
iron has save my butt.  I have pulled a couple of traces in my past.  Great
you were able to do so with no damage.

Bill
K9YEQ
K2 and KX1 field tester, K3 and modules


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Steve KC8QVO
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 2010 10:15 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Build - #6950


Problem found. I did some swapnostics with a buddy's K2 and we traced the
problem to the front panel. After going through all the resistance checks
again my friend found the problem - U4 was backwards. 

It took me quite a while to fix it. I used solder wick to suck out the
solder. I am sure anyone that has done that on a 20 pin IC can relate -
quite tedious to pull the chip without lifting a pad or pulling a plated
thru hole!

Steve, KC8QVO
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[Elecraft] New K3 app note issued.

2010-05-27 Thread Bruce Beford
The app note for modifying the K3SYN board has been posted to the K3
Enhamcements and Application Notes page at:

http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_app_notes.htm

It is a simple one-resistor mod. Next time I have the rig open, I'll
probably do both of mine.

Description:
In rare cases, at certain frequencies the DDS driving signal to the Phase
Locked Loop (PLL) may be marginal, resulting in a sudden shift in frequency
(commonly called chirp). This modification adds a resistor to the KSYN3
board that increases the DDS drive level prevent this condition. 

This is an optional modification and is not required unless you are
experiencing this condition.

73,
Bruce N1RX


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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 app note issued.

2010-05-27 Thread Bruce Beford
That should read Enhancements not EnHAMcements, of course. 8-)
Bruce N1RX
K3 #559


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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 app note issued.

2010-05-27 Thread Phil Hystad
OK, how do I find out if I need this mod?   I have witnessed two different 
frequency shift problems, one of them I have posted here and there has been 
some discussion about it.

Problem #1 (posted before) -- when listening to CW, when the signal is 
reasonably strong such as S9 or better, if there is a slight pause in the 
sending there is sometimes a frequency shift on the order of 10 Hz to 40 Hz.  I 
am guessing at the actual shift amount as it is a slight but very apparent 
shift in tone.


Problem #2:  on a couple of occasions while operating PSK, there has been a 
slight shift in frequency, enough that my software is no longer tracking the 
signal (I use CocoaModem).  I am not sure how much a shift would need to be for 
CocoaModem to lose sync but it does lose sync.  This has happened a few times.  
At first, I thought it was the other guy hitting his VFO or maybe some old tube 
rig that is has an unstable VFO but the last two times it happened I am pretty 
sure that it was me (and, my hands are no where near the VFO knob).


By the way, as far as I know, in neither case above, does the VFO frequency 
readout change value.  For PSK, I keep my VFO pegged on 14070.150 Hz and I 
think I would notice if this changed.


73, phil, K7PEH


On May 27, 2010, at 3:54 PM, Bruce Beford wrote:

 The app note for modifying the K3SYN board has been posted to the K3
 Enhamcements and Application Notes page at:
 
 http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_app_notes.htm
 
 It is a simple one-resistor mod. Next time I have the rig open, I'll
 probably do both of mine.
 
 Description:
 In rare cases, at certain frequencies the DDS driving signal to the Phase
 Locked Loop (PLL) may be marginal, resulting in a sudden shift in frequency
 (commonly called chirp). This modification adds a resistor to the KSYN3
 board that increases the DDS drive level prevent this condition. 
 
 This is an optional modification and is not required unless you are
 experiencing this condition.
 
 73,
 Bruce N1RX
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 app note issued.

2010-05-27 Thread Don Cunningham
Phil,
The ap note itself says it applies to rigs before approximately 3922 serial 
number.  I looked to see if my 4076 was covered, although I have not 
experienced the problem yet.
73,
Don, WB5HAK 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 fan noise, part XXLIV

2010-05-27 Thread Peter Wollan
The p-value is 0.07 (Fisher Exact test).  Not dramatically
significant, but well above the statistically virtually meaningless
level.

You might write back to your respondents and see if there are any
differences in the K3s, such as the amount of empty space inside, or
in settings.

   Peter W0LLN

On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 1:28 PM, Joe Planisky jp...@jeffnet.org wrote:
 Since the responses to my inquiry about K3 fan brands/models have
 virtually stopped, I thought I'd post the results.  There are indeed
 at least 2 different fans in use in K3s:

(snip)

 UTEC Quiet   3
 UTEC Loud:   4
 Elina Quiet: 6
 Elina Loud:  0

 With such a small sample of self-reported anecdotes of a subjective
 perception, the results of this little survey are statistically
 virtually meaningless.
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 app note issued.

2010-05-27 Thread Bill W4ZV


Phil Hystad-3 wrote:
 
 OK, how do I find out if I need this mod?   I have witnessed two different
 frequency shift problems, one of them I have posted here and there has
 been some discussion about it.
 
 Problem #1 (posted before) -- when listening to CW, when the signal is
 reasonably strong such as S9 or better, if there is a slight pause in the
 sending there is sometimes a frequency shift on the order of 10 Hz to 40
 Hz.  I am guessing at the actual shift amount as it is a slight but very
 apparent shift in tone.
 
 
 Problem #2:  on a couple of occasions while operating PSK, there has been
 a slight shift in frequency, enough that my software is no longer tracking
 the signal (I use CocoaModem).  I am not sure how much a shift would need
 to be for CocoaModem to lose sync but it does lose sync.  This has
 happened a few times.  At first, I thought it was the other guy hitting
 his VFO or maybe some old tube rig that is has an unstable VFO but the
 last two times it happened I am pretty sure that it was me (and, my hands
 are no where near the VFO knob).
 
 
 By the way, as far as I know, in neither case above, does the VFO
 frequency readout change value.  For PSK, I keep my VFO pegged on
 14070.150 Hz and I think I would notice if this changed.
 

Neither problem.  This mod applies to a chirp in your transmitted signal,
usually when operating split.  It does not apply to received signals.  

73,  Bill

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[Elecraft] Nice KXV3 feature

2010-05-27 Thread Jim Miller
Was looking through the K3 manual and discovered something that will be very
helpful tomorrow. I can put the K3 into KXV3 test mode and use it as a low
power generator. With that capability and my power meter (which can only
take +7dbm) I can measure the condition of my 4 year old buried feed.

Nice!

jim ab3cv
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[Elecraft] KSYN3 mods to date, corrected third mod applicability

2010-05-27 Thread Paul Kirley
The most recent mod to the KSYN3 board(s) is the third mod to that board.  The 
second mod potentially undoes and redoes the first mod (unless you chose to do 
the first mod via SMD change).

First mod, applicable to all K3s shipped before 12/22/08:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/ELECRAFT_Application_Note_KSYN3_ALC_Rev_A.pdf

Second mod, applicable to any synthesizer without a metal plate glued to it:
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/ELECRAFT%20KSYN3%20Stiffener%20Mod%20Rev%20D.pdf

Third mod, applicable to S/N prior to 3922:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/KSYN3%20DDS%20Gain%20Modification.pdf

I have done the first mod, but would have to undo it and redo it if I did the 
the second mod.  And the third mod would then await.

Fortunately, I have only one KSYN3 board--not having bought a second receiver 
(which includes a second KSYN3).

73, Paul W8TM

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[Elecraft] KSYN3 mods to date

2010-05-27 Thread Paul Kirley
The most recent mod to the KSYN3 board(s) is the third mod to that board.  The 
second mod potentially undoes and redoes the first mod (unless you chose to do 
the first mod via SMD change).

First mod, applicable to all K3s shipped before 12/22/08:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/ELECRAFT_Application_Note_KSYN3_ALC_Rev_A.pdf

Second mod, applicable to any synthesizer without a metal plate glued to it:
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/ELECRAFT%20KSYN3%20Stiffener%20Mod%20Rev%20D.pdf

Third mod, applicable to S/N 3922 and later:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/KSYN3%20DDS%20Gain%20Modification.pdf

I have done the first mod, but would have to undo it and redo it if I did the 
the second mod.  And the third mod would then await.

Fortunately, I have only one KSYN3 board--not having bought a second receiver 
(which includes a second KSYN3).

73, Paul W8TM

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