Re: [Elecraft] K3 - it has spoiled part of my hobby

[Bill W2BLC]

The subject is the K3 and it's surrounding hardware. I cannot think of 
anything more on topic.


Bill W2BLC K-Line
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Re: [Elecraft] Using a KAT-500 and THP HL-1.5KFX

[Slava Baytalskiy]

Guys, all you have to do is get Fred Kady's book: 
http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_prod_list.htm#kpa500
At the bottom of the KPA500 order page. You'll see it.

It lists every possible scenario of connecting these items together.
And a lot of other things you're gonna wanna know about integrating these 
devices.
Of course you can't attain the integration of the K-Line (easily, with least 
amount of cabling) but you can get very close to it.

__
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w2...@arrl.net

On Jun 24, 2014, at 12:13 AM, Morgan Bailey  wrote:

> Bump… Anyone?  I'm about to be in the same boat pretty soon.  Already have
> the 1.5kfx and I'm going to have a k3 and a kat500.  I'm hoping that that
> there is a way to make them work together smoothly, much like the
> k3/kpa500/kat500 do…
> 
> 
> On Sun, Jun 22, 2014 at 6:43 AM, Peter Chamalian W1RM 
> wrote:
> 
>> Is anyone using this combination with automatic bandswitching/tuning?  I
>> have the amp and K3 along with the special cable that connects the K3 to
>> the
>> amp for auto bandswitching.  I'm hoping that will also work with the
>> KAT-500
>> added.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Pete, W1RM
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] HRD/DM-780, Elecraft K3 and soundcard

[Gerald Manthey]

Tony
I have the same setup.
I have not tried Olivia. I have worked all other modes.
What mode is radio set too? Data mode? Is the decode button highlighted
above the waterfall in DM780?
Is band with set properly as not to cut off the signal edges both on the K3
and DM780?
Once your on the signal barring any of the above settings, you should
decode. Try going to the HRD configure page and set to default settings. If
all else fails reload DM780 to make sure there is no corruption.
Let us know what you find.
Gerald - KC6CNN
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Re: [Elecraft] Experience with KXPA100 (3)

[Hans J Rasmusen OZ7BQ]

Thank you for comments.

I suspected that voltage drop could be a problem. My power supply has a nominal 
13.8 Volt output, and the voltage as indicated by the KXPA100 Utility drops to 
around 13 volts (+ or - 0.1 Volts) during full power. However, there appears to 
be no correlation between the voltage drop and the power output (or the power 
dissipated). The output may vary by 15 to 20 watts for the same voltage drop.
My K2/100 appears to do better or maybe I just have less measurements.

73 and enjoy the summer.
OZ7BQ, Hans Jørgen (Joe)
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[Elecraft] ELECRAFT Newbie

[w1dwz w1dwz]

I am quite interested in seeing what all this  interest in ELECRAFT  line
of QRP transceivers is all about.
I am  60 yrs in Ham Radio ,and would like to hve some help in
obtaining  one   suitable to my needs   .  Like  QRP'ing ,  portable
operating  .  If anyone has  something for sale that would suit my needs as
a   beginner  with ELECRAFT,  please write.  I wud prefer a K1 or K2 maybe
,   with possibleup grade  options for  SSB   , keyer  ,5W  OK but
10 maybe preferred  ,  like  80 /  75 / 40 / 15  meters  .  Senior
Citizen   with limited radio budget but wud love to see what these things
are all abt.
Write if you   hv something that u think wud be of interest to me
Dave  W1DWZ  in RI. 401  297-0361or:
w1...@fullchannel.net
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - UHF emissions

[Dave]

I can back Darren up on this, sprogs and sproggies are common slang words 
used in Amateur Radio and the Radio/TV industries in the UK to mean 
spurrious emissions.


So, at a typical Microwave Roundtable you might hear someone say "Look at 
the sproggies on that!" when connecting the output of an oscillator or 
amplifier to a spectrum analyser.


It can also mean a small child or baby, as in "I see she has brought her 
sprogs with her" it was also used in the RAF as a description of a new 
recruit, possibly putting 'frog spawn' into one word, as the recruit was 
often said to be 'as green as a frog' as they didn't know much.


What frequencies are these emissions on specifically?  As I'll get out my 
portable spectrum analyser and go and look for them on my KX3 if I know 
where to look.


Dave (G0DJA)


- Original Message - 
From: "Darren Long" 

To: "K8JHR" ; 
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 12:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - UHF emissions


Well, I've always thought of sproggies as spurious emissions, i.e. 
external to
the source, whereas I've thought of birdies as internal interference, 
perhaps

like tinitus.


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Re: [Elecraft] Using a KAT-500 and THP HL-1.5KFX

[Phil Wheeler]

I second Slava's recommendation. A very good book 
-- and takes up little space in pdf format :-)


Phil W7OX

On 6/25/14, 4:49 AM, Slava Baytalskiy wrote:

Guys, all you have to do is get Fred Kady's book: 
http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_prod_list.htm#kpa500
At the bottom of the KPA500 order page. You'll see it.

It lists every possible scenario of connecting these items together.
And a lot of other things you're gonna wanna know about integrating these 
devices.
Of course you can't attain the integration of the K-Line (easily, with least 
amount of cabling) but you can get very close to it.

__
Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS
w2...@arrl.net

On Jun 24, 2014, at 12:13 AM, Morgan Bailey  wrote:


Bump… Anyone?  I'm about to be in the same boat pretty soon.  Already have
the 1.5kfx and I'm going to have a k3 and a kat500.  I'm hoping that that
there is a way to make them work together smoothly, much like the
k3/kpa500/kat500 do…


On Sun, Jun 22, 2014 at 6:43 AM, Peter Chamalian W1RM 
wrote:


Is anyone using this combination with automatic bandswitching/tuning?  I
have the amp and K3 along with the special cable that connects the K3 to
the
amp for auto bandswitching.  I'm hoping that will also work with the
KAT-500
added.



Thanks,





Pete, W1RM


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Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT Newbie

[Jim Wiley]

Dave -

Do you feel up to building a kit?  The K2 is a good radiofor this 
experience. You can start small, with the 10-15 watt base CW only 
transceiver, adding modules and functions  (SSB, noise blanker, 
automatic antenna coupler, 100-watt amplifierstage, etc.) as time and 
budget permit.  But the important thing is, the K2 doesn't give away 
much of anything to bigger (and more costly) units.  Its performance is 
top notch (verified by any number of test reports from professional 
labs), and it hasthe distinct advantage of being a rig that the average 
ham can still fix by himself.  Add to that the world class technical and 
factory support, and you've got a winner.   I am sure may others on this 
reflector will agree.


If you don't feel up to a kit, there are even fellows on here that will 
build it for you for a nominal fee, and the end result is a truly 
professional job.



- Jim, KL7CC


On 6/25/2014 5:38 AM, w1dwz w1dwz wrote:

I am quite interested in seeing what all this interest in ELECRAFT line 
of QRP transceivers is all about. I am 60 yrs in Ham Radio , and would 
like to hve some help in obtaining one suitable to my needs .

I like QRP'ing , portable operating .

If anyone has something for sale that would suit my needs as a beginner 
with ELECRAFT, please write.


I wud prefer a K1 or K2 maybe , with possible up grade options for SSB , 
keyer , 5W OK but 10 maybe preferred , like 80 / 75 / 40 / 15 meters .


Senior Citizen with limited radio budget but wud love to see what these 
things are all abt.


Write if you hv something that u think wud be of interest to me

Dave W1DWZ

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[Elecraft] FS: [K1] 2 band modules

[Jim's Desktop]

I have for sale 1 wired & aligned 40 & 20 meter 2 band board and one new 
in the bag 17 & 15 meter board that's not built.  I went the 4 band 
module for my K1  so these are not needed here.  (my K1 is not for sale, 
just these 2 band modules).


Please reply off list if you're interested and we'll talk about price 
and shipping.


Jim Sheldon - W0EB


w...@cox.net
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Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT Newbie

[Chip Stratton]

You can often find a used K2 on ebay or preferably on this list for
substantially less than the kit price. Ebay may be a riskier proposition.
Still, you can probably fix minor problems yourself if you are so inclined.

Many are selling their K2 rigs having bought a KX3, but I still use mine
despite having a KX3

73
Chip
Ae5ka

On Wednesday, June 25, 2014, Jim Wiley  wrote:

> Dave -
>
> Do you feel up to building a kit?  The K2 is a good radiofor this
> experience. You can start small, with the 10-15 watt base CW only
> transceiver, adding modules and functions  (SSB, noise blanker, automatic
> antenna coupler, 100-watt amplifierstage, etc.) as time and budget permit.
>  But the important thing is, the K2 doesn't give away much of anything to
> bigger (and more costly) units.  Its performance is top notch (verified by
> any number of test reports from professional labs), and it hasthe distinct
> advantage of being a rig that the average ham can still fix by himself.
>  Add to that the world class technical and factory support, and you've got
> a winner.   I am sure may others on this reflector will agree.
>
> If you don't feel up to a kit, there are even fellows on here that will
> build it for you for a nominal fee, and the end result is a truly
> professional job.
>
>
> - Jim, KL7CC
>
>
> On 6/25/2014 5:38 AM, w1dwz w1dwz wrote:
>
> I am quite interested in seeing what all this interest in ELECRAFT line of
> QRP transceivers is all about. I am 60 yrs in Ham Radio , and would like to
> hve some help in obtaining one suitable to my needs .
> I like QRP'ing , portable operating .
>
> If anyone has something for sale that would suit my needs as a beginner
> with ELECRAFT, please write.
>
> I wud prefer a K1 or K2 maybe , with possible up grade options for SSB ,
> keyer , 5W OK but 10 maybe preferred , like 80 / 75 / 40 / 15 meters .
>
> Senior Citizen with limited radio budget but wud love to see what these
> things are all abt.
>
> Write if you hv something that u think wud be of interest to me
>
> Dave W1DWZ
>
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Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT Newbie

[Phil Hystad]

Also, to catch a K2 sale here on this Elecraft list you must be quick and check
all the time.  I don't recall seeing a posted K2 for-sale message that has gone
unanswered with a buy that very same day.  Sure that probably happens but
it might be more rare.

73, phil, K7PEH

On Jun 25, 2014, at 8:26 AM, Chip Stratton  wrote:

> You can often find a used K2 on ebay or preferably on this list for
> substantially less than the kit price. Ebay may be a riskier proposition.
> Still, you can probably fix minor problems yourself if you are so inclined.
> 
> Many are selling their K2 rigs having bought a KX3, but I still use mine
> despite having a KX3
> 
> 73
> Chip
> Ae5ka
> 
> On Wednesday, June 25, 2014, Jim Wiley  wrote:
> 
>> Dave -
>> 
>> Do you feel up to building a kit?  The K2 is a good radiofor this
>> experience. You can start small, with the 10-15 watt base CW only
>> transceiver, adding modules and functions  (SSB, noise blanker, automatic
>> antenna coupler, 100-watt amplifierstage, etc.) as time and budget permit.
>> But the important thing is, the K2 doesn't give away much of anything to
>> bigger (and more costly) units.  Its performance is top notch (verified by
>> any number of test reports from professional labs), and it hasthe distinct
>> advantage of being a rig that the average ham can still fix by himself.
>> Add to that the world class technical and factory support, and you've got
>> a winner.   I am sure may others on this reflector will agree.
>> 
>> If you don't feel up to a kit, there are even fellows on here that will
>> build it for you for a nominal fee, and the end result is a truly
>> professional job.
>> 
>> 
>> - Jim, KL7CC
>> 
>> 
>> On 6/25/2014 5:38 AM, w1dwz w1dwz wrote:
>> 
>> I am quite interested in seeing what all this interest in ELECRAFT line of
>> QRP transceivers is all about. I am 60 yrs in Ham Radio , and would like to
>> hve some help in obtaining one suitable to my needs .
>> I like QRP'ing , portable operating .
>> 
>> If anyone has something for sale that would suit my needs as a beginner
>> with ELECRAFT, please write.
>> 
>> I wud prefer a K1 or K2 maybe , with possible up grade options for SSB ,
>> keyer , 5W OK but 10 maybe preferred , like 80 / 75 / 40 / 15 meters .
>> 
>> Senior Citizen with limited radio budget but wud love to see what these
>> things are all abt.
>> 
>> Write if you hv something that u think wud be of interest to me
>> 
>> Dave W1DWZ
>> 
>> __
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>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to lightdazz...@gmail.com
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [KXPA100] Power-on slide switch ?

[ke9uw]

I am a ret. EE and years ago I bought a new Drake 2B. When I sent the
warranty in, I mentioned the slide switches. I got a nice letter back from a
Drake engineer who assured me that the slide switches had been selected to
be most reliable and I should have no issues with them. And I never had any
issues with them.
EE's don't know everything...well almost, but not about slide switches :).



-
Chuck, KE9UW
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KXPA100-Power-on-slide-switch-tp7590470p7590528.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] HRD/DM-780, Elecraft K3 and soundcard

[Steven Bertsch]

Tony…

There is a SQUELCH slider near the top above the receive window (grayish 
horizontal bar moving). My slider was in the middle and when I moved the slider 
to the left all the way, I had solid copy. Where is yours set at?

73, Steve K6SAB


On Jun 24, 2014, at 6:47 PM, Tony Lyon  wrote:

> Folks,
> I decided to try HRD/DM780 for first time after using another HF digital 
> software program for
> probably 10 years.  I am using an Elecraft K3 and a SignaLink USB interface 
> and both
> MixW and MultiPSK fine with ZERO problems on either RX or TX. With HRD/DM780 
> (version 6.2)  the K3
> will  TX fine (great signal reports), but on RX (with the Audio input set 
> between 50-60%), I only get about
> 90% copy even with a solid OLIVIA signal in the waterfall. I have tried all 
> kinds of SYNC/TUNE Margins
> (while using OLIVIA) to no avail. I have also tried all different levels of 
> audio RX input to no avail.
> If someone could share their SignaLink  and any K3 LINE-IN/LINE-OUT config 
> values to get DM780 to work I
> would appreciate it. I have been at this for a week (part time) and still 
> can't get DM780 to work correctly
> with my K3.
> 
> There is clearly a parameter I am missing, but the documentation for setting 
> up the soundcard for version
> is 6.2 is a tad vague.
> 
> 73,
> Tony L. (KJ5XF)
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT Newbie

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

For portable QRP operation, I would suggest that the KX3 is the optimum 
solution.
It is all-mode, 160 through 6 meter coverage, and is rated at the top of 
the Sherwood listing for receive performance.  It is available either 
factory built or as a no-solder kit.


If that is out of your current radio budget, then I would suggest the K2 
as the 2nd choice.  Yes, it is a kit that you need to assemble from the 
basic resistors, capacitors, ICs and transistors. The basic K2 covers 80 
thru 10 meters, CW only, but options can be added for 160 meter 
coverage, SSB, automatic antenna tuner, as well as other functions such 
as the noise blanker and either audio DSP or an audio filter.  Even 
though it is a 15 year old design, it is still rated quite high on the 
Sherwood listings.  The nice thing about the K2 is that you can build 
the basic K2 and add options as your ham budget recovers later.


All Elecraft transceivers have a built in keyer.

I would have suggested the K1, but you specified SSB operation and 80 
meters.  The K1 will do 80 meters, but that band must be built on a 2 
band board.  There is a 4 band board available, but it covers 40, 30, 20 
and your choice of 17 or 15 meters.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/25/2014 9:38 AM, w1dwz w1dwz wrote:

I am quite interested in seeing what all this  interest in ELECRAFT  line
of QRP transceivers is all about.
I am  60 yrs in Ham Radio ,and would like to hve some help in
obtaining  one   suitable to my needs   .  Like  QRP'ing ,  portable
operating  .  If anyone has  something for sale that would suit my needs as
a   beginner  with ELECRAFT,  please write.  I wud prefer a K1 or K2 maybe
,   with possibleup grade  options for  SSB   , keyer  ,5W  OK but
10 maybe preferred  ,  like  80 /  75 / 40 / 15  meters  .  Senior
Citizen   with limited radio budget but wud love to see what these things
are all abt.
Write if you   hv something that u think wud be of interest to me
Dave  W1DWZ  in RI. 401  297-0361or:
w1...@fullchannel.net



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - it has spoiled part of my hobby

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

When posts outside the list charter start to overwhelm the list, and we 
see the volume of complaints that have been on here recently, people get 
gun-shy.


They're afraid to post to the list and add even more angst to the group.

I've asked many times that replies to on-topic, legitimate posts be on-list.

Often, those posts are on topics that I don't care about.  I don't have 
a K3 or a P3, I'm not a CW op (or a SSB op).  To me, those posts are boring.


But they're useful to others, and sometimes there is a gem buried in a 
post that is otherwise uninteresting to me.


We (and I mean all of us, myself included) need to learn when to 
moderate ourselves -and- we need to be a little more tolerant when there 
is a great discussion going on that simply doesn't match our personal 
interests.


I would personally be happy if the list volume tripled, as long as we 
the additional posts are within the list charter, and as long as we can 
be courteous to each other.


73 -- Lynn

On 6/25/2014 3:22 AM, Bill W2BLC wrote:
The subject is the K3 and it's surrounding hardware. I cannot think of 
anything more on topic.


Bill W2BLC K-Line 


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[Elecraft] extended double Zepp

[Rstafford12]

I realize this is another somewhat not on topic post, but it is in regards to 
my KX1 and KX3. I have a mature pine forest; 60 -70 foot trees. How compromised 
would an EDZ be hung 45 feet up about four rows of trees in from the perimeter? 
No branches or needles inside the forest until 50 feet up. Richard KD0NPM
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - UHF emissions

[Darren Long]

Hi Dave,

Well, the only time that I've specifically investigated one of these spurs, was
with my KX3 tuned to 7.080Mhz.  The only reason why I've followed up on this one
is that I've cleared the backlog of other things to do and figured that I'd try
and nail this problem now. I've had the scanners stop on UHF channels whilst
operating on most HF bands with the KX3.

I noticed the spur (from 7.08MHz) on 389.4MHz, which is a frequency used at RAF
Marham.  A related spur can be found at 141.6Mhz too.  It would be interested to
see if you can find anything.  I've used my USRP with a whip in the near field
to monitor a wider swath of spectrum and can see the spur from 7.08MHz drop down
by 160KHz to 141.440Mhz and down by 440kHz to 388.96kHz when I enable the 8kHz
shift in the KX3.

I watched 8MHz of spectrum and knobulated (there's another one for the
dictionary) the KX3's VFO and followed the sprog as it traversed the plot.  I
slewed the KX3's VFO down to 60m and at some points could see a pair of spurs
tracking the VFO.

Anyway, I've ordered about £30 of type 61 ferrite which should arrive tomorrow,
so I'll see if that gets results.

Cheers,

Darren, G0HWW



On 25/06/14 15:07, Dave wrote:
> I can back Darren up on this, sprogs and sproggies are common slang words used
> in Amateur Radio and the Radio/TV industries in the UK to mean spurrious 
> emissions.
> 
> So, at a typical Microwave Roundtable you might hear someone say "Look at the
> sproggies on that!" when connecting the output of an oscillator or amplifier 
> to
> a spectrum analyser.
> 
> It can also mean a small child or baby, as in "I see she has brought her 
> sprogs
> with her" it was also used in the RAF as a description of a new recruit,
> possibly putting 'frog spawn' into one word, as the recruit was often said to 
> be
> 'as green as a frog' as they didn't know much.
> 
> What frequencies are these emissions on specifically?  As I'll get out my
> portable spectrum analyser and go and look for them on my KX3 if I know where 
> to
> look.
> 
> Dave (G0DJA)
> 
> 
> - Original Message - From: "Darren Long" 
> To: "K8JHR" ; 
> Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 12:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - UHF emissions
> 
> 
>> Well, I've always thought of sproggies as spurious emissions, i.e. external 
>> to
>> the source, whereas I've thought of birdies as internal interference, perhaps
>> like tinitus.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] extended double Zepp

[Fred Townsend]

Richard:
I have run a double Zepp hung from the trees as you suggest. If you can do it I 
would get the antenna across the tops of the trees. 45' is too low for 80M 
unless you are running NVIS in which case you are too high at 45'. Keep in mind 
that pine trees are parasitic so keep the wire, even if insulated, away from 
the trees. Inverted V works if you can't maintain 60'.
73,
Fred, AE6QL


-Original Message-
>From: Rstafford12 
>Sent: Jun 25, 2014 11:12 AM
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: [Elecraft] extended double Zepp
>
>I realize this is another somewhat not on topic post, but it is in regards to 
>my KX1 and KX3. I have a mature pine forest; 60 -70 foot trees. How 
>compromised would an EDZ be hung 45 feet up about four rows of trees in from 
>the perimeter? No branches or needles inside the forest until 50 feet up. 
>Richard KD0NPM

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Re: [Elecraft] extended double Zepp

[Rick Bates, WA6NHC]

You didn't mention your primary band (to determine how long it is).

I have an 80M EDZ (340' end to end of #14, 2- 5/8 wavelength center fed) in the 
oak trees.  It is too low but it is all I can mange (the trees rarely grow 
above 50' plus airport, HOA, CCR).  I have 230 countries (5 on 160) over the 
last few years with casual operating, so I guess it's doing ok.

Keep it out of the trees as much as possible, feed it with window/ladder line 
(much lower loss and helps transform the high impedances down) and expect 
tuning variances with seasons and weather (has to do with the feed and the 
plant moisture). Use a good common mode choke (every time, every antenna)!

If the trees are indeed parasitic, insulation won't affect that, but is still a 
good idea in pines because the needles are acidic (it'll react badly with the 
copper).  Squirrels are a bigger problem, being rodents they MUST chew to wear 
their teeth down.

Make it as high as you can get it then have fun.  Don't stress about straight 
lines and leave it sloppy enough that the wire will slide through the branches 
as they wave in the breeze (they never wave the same direction at the same 
time).  If you tension it, something will break.  I only anchor the far ends of 
the wire, everything else sags and is in motion, including the feed.  This is 
reason #2 for insulated wire, it's slicker so it slides through the branches 
better.

Although you didn't ask, if you really have real estate with tall trees and 
want to play, run the full wave 160 M loop through EZNEC and you'll see that 
165' per side  (assuming square) will allow you to have decent matches on ALL 
ham bands <30 Mhz.  Someday I'll have to try that one, hard to do on a quarter 
acre.  If you run a similar design based on say 80 meters, every other band is 
resonant; the 160 meter is good for all bands.  I don't know why.

Another option is vertically oriented loops at 90 deg angles  (because they 
have directivity) to each other with a remote antenna switch...  With a four 
port switch you could not only change directions, you could change polarity...  
Or figure out phasing lines to run them together, the phase choice would 'turn' 
the directivity...

Of course there is an absorbent factor with trees too, creating loss, another 
reason for max height, less tree cover up high.

Antenna can be fun!

73,
Rick, WA6NHC

iPad = small keypad = typos = sorry ;-)

> On Jun 25, 2014, at 12:14 PM, Fred Townsend  wrote:
> 
> Richard:
> I have run a double Zepp hung from the trees as you suggest. If you can do it 
> I would get the antenna across the tops of the trees. 45' is too low for 80M 
> unless you are running NVIS in which case you are too high at 45'. Keep in 
> mind that pine trees are parasitic so keep the wire, even if insulated, away 
> from the trees. Inverted V works if you can't maintain 60'.
> 73,
> Fred, AE6QL
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
>> From: Rstafford12 
>> Sent: Jun 25, 2014 11:12 AM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: [Elecraft] extended double Zepp
>> 
>> I realize this is another somewhat not on topic post, but it is in regards 
>> to my KX1 and KX3. I have a mature pine forest; 60 -70 foot trees. How 
>> compromised would an EDZ be hung 45 feet up about four rows of trees in from 
>> the perimeter? No branches or needles inside the forest until 50 feet up. 
>> Richard KD0NPM
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] extended double Zepp

[Kevin]

Hi Richard,
While I do not have experience with pine trees (they don't grow 
here in Oregon) I do have many years of experience with coniferous trees 
and antennas.   Don't lay your wire across the tops of them as suggested 
you will only be frustrated by how little time they will spend in the 
air.  You may get one month but that would be luck. Any breeze coming 
along will knock them down.  My trees ( a mix of hemlock, Douglas fir, 
and western redcedar) block propagation when they are wet but mostly at 
higher frequencies.  70 centimeters is the most highly effected.  On a 
typically foggy day you need to find a hole in the trees for a hand held 
to work at all.  However, at the lower frequencies of HF you won't 
experience much attenuation at all.  Since you're running a wire at 
right angles to the trunks there won't be much effect from them.  I have 
one inverted V and one flat top doublet.  80 meters is limited to upper 
California to lower British Columbia and then out into the desert areas 
of the northern Great Basin.  The biggest problem to propagation is 
having the Pacific Ocean out to my west.  There are not a lot of 80 
meter operators there.
   Another problem with coniferous trees is snow loading.  This is how 
I lose my antennas.  After our typically wet snow falls the limbs can 
lower by as much as forty feet.  The normal failure mode is for the 
antenna lines to part from their central connection when the drooping 
limbs capture the wires and pull them loose.  I then use my F-250 to 
pull down the lines holding up the remaining bits of the antenna and 
rebuild it.  I need to use the truck since the lines are quickly 
attached to the trees by growth or from pitch.  Limbs falling can also 
be a problem but this only happens during the larger storms.  Get your 
support lines as close as you can to the trunk of the tree; any further 
out and the trees will shed the lines quickly letting you practice 
putting them back up again.
   By the way, fir trees don't become mature until they are around 300 
years old.  By then they are normally one hundred feet tall if they have 
not been pruned by storms.  I have a few of these older trees around my 
property but most of them are new growth of less than 60 years of age.  
While my normal noise floor is S1 it drops even further when there is a 
foot of snow on the trees.  But then I am also losing a fair amount of 
signal to all that supported water. My antennas use insulated wire which 
helps them from shorting to ground but when the antennas carry an inch 
or two of snow the signal is attenuated.  The first breeze coming by 
normally clears the antenna wires and my received signal strength jumps 
by an S unit or two.

   Good luck,
   Kevin.   KD5ONS


On 6/25/2014 11:12 AM, Rstafford12 wrote:

I realize this is another somewhat not on topic post, but it is in regards to 
my KX1 and KX3. I have a mature pine forest; 60 -70 foot trees. How compromised 
would an EDZ be hung 45 feet up about four rows of trees in from the perimeter? 
No branches or needles inside the forest until 50 feet up. Richard KD0NPM
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K2/10, KPA100-KAT100 in EC2

[Robert S. McCuskey]

Elecraft K2/10, KPA100-KAT100 in EC2

F/S PRICE REDUCED:  Elecraft K2 10 watt 160-10 meter transceiver with the
KPA100 100 watt internal amplifier and KAT100 internal auto antenna tuner in
a separate  matching EC2 case. . For pictures, see listing on www.eham.net.
The units when separated return the K2 to a 10 watt QRP rig. The rig is in
excellent operational and physical condition from a non-smoking environment.
The K2 (S/N 6385) has the following installed: KAT2 20W internal tuner,
K160RX 160M, 2nd RX Antenna Option,  KNB2 Noise Blanker, KSB2 SSB Module,
KDSP2 DSP filter and clock, KIO2 RS232 Serial adapter, KBT2 internal battery
option (but without battery), N8BX Heavy Weight VFO tuning knob and original
knob,  latest firmware Version 2.04, aligned by  W3FPR , no microphone.
All interconnecting cables, manuals, Nifty-Mini Manual  are provided. Reason
for selling is that it is excess to my needs since  I am now using  a KX3
and KXPA100 as  my backup and portable rig.  Current price for this rig with
the options listed is $2400 plus shipping. PRICE REDUCED: I'm now asking
$1300 shipped USPS Priority Mail in  CONUS.  PayPal preferred or USPS Money
Order.  Please reply off list to w7bv at comcast dot net.Thanks and 73,
Bob  W7BV

 

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Re: [Elecraft] extended double Zepp

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

I like the EDZ also.  In fact they work very well as a sloper also.  While mine 
are obviously higher, any real height on one end and as much height as you can 
get on the other is a good choice.  Mine are in 90 degree quadrature and also 
352 feet long center fed.  Take a tour of the QTH on California Hammin'.

Mel, K6KBE



On Wednesday, June 25, 2014 1:15 PM, Kevin  wrote:
 


Hi Richard,
     While I do not have experience with pine trees (they don't grow 
here in Oregon) I do have many years of experience with coniferous trees 
and antennas.   Don't lay your wire across the tops of them as suggested 
you will only be frustrated by how little time they will spend in the 
air.  You may get one month but that would be luck. Any breeze coming 
along will knock them down.  My trees ( a mix of hemlock, Douglas fir, 
and western redcedar) block propagation when they are wet but mostly at 
higher frequencies.  70 centimeters is the most highly effected.  On a 
typically foggy day you need to find a hole in the trees for a hand held 
to work at all.  However, at the lower frequencies of HF you won't 
experience much attenuation at all.  Since you're running a wire at 
right angles to the trunks there won't be much effect from them.  I have 
one inverted V and one flat top doublet.  80 meters is limited to upper 
California to lower British Columbia and then out into the desert areas 
of the northern Great Basin.  The biggest problem to propagation is 
having the Pacific Ocean out to my west.  There are not a lot of 80 
meter operators there.
    Another problem with coniferous trees is snow loading.  This is how 
I lose my antennas.  After our typically wet snow falls the limbs can 
lower by as much as forty feet.  The normal failure mode is for the 
antenna lines to part from their central connection when the drooping 
limbs capture the wires and pull them loose.  I then use my F-250 to 
pull down the lines holding up the remaining bits of the antenna and 
rebuild it.  I need to use the truck since the lines are quickly 
attached to the trees by growth or from pitch.  Limbs falling can also 
be a problem but this only happens during the larger storms.  Get your 
support lines as close as you can to the trunk of the tree; any further 
out and the trees will shed the lines quickly letting you practice 
putting them back up again.
    By the way, fir trees don't become mature until they are around 300 
years old.  By then they are normally one hundred feet tall if they have 
not been pruned by storms.  I have a few of these older trees around my 
property but most of them are new growth of less than 60 years of age.  
While my normal noise floor is S1 it drops even further when there is a 
foot of snow on the trees.  But then I am also losing a fair amount of 
signal to all that supported water. My antennas use insulated wire which 
helps them from shorting to ground but when the antennas carry an inch 
or two of snow the signal is attenuated.  The first breeze coming by 
normally clears the antenna wires and my received signal strength jumps 
by an S unit or two.
    Good luck,
        Kevin.   KD5ONS


On 6/25/2014 11:12 AM, Rstafford12 wrote:
> I realize this is another somewhat not on topic post, but it is in regards to 
> my KX1 and KX3. I have a mature pine forest; 60 -70 foot trees. How 
> compromised would an EDZ be hung 45 feet up about four rows of trees in from 
> the perimeter? No branches or needles inside the forest until 50 feet up. 
> Richard KD0NPM
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>

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[Elecraft] RemoteRig WiFi Puzzler

[Brian F. Wruble]

Hi all:

I have been successfully using RemoteRig along with a K3/0 and my remote
K-Line at the main station.  This is a superb line-up of gear, and I have
complete control over the K-Line as long as the internet is good at both
ends.

I have added the WiFi card to the control-end RemoteRig (RRC-1258 MkII with
latest firmware.)  At first, everything seemed to work normally.  I could
go into the RemoteRig using the Microbit Setup Manager (ver 1.20), go to
the "WiFi" tab, select the "Setup" tab, click on "Scan", and all WiFi
networks in my vicinity would pop up.  I could select one, fill in the
password, the RemoteRig would connect to it, and I could then access the
RemoteRig using a browser on the same LAN by going to the right ip address
--- in my case 192.168.1.169.

At some point, things changed.  The Microbit Setup program scan now show
only "x" where previously it had shown the name of a Wifi access point, on
my local LAN.  I assumed that something had gone wrong with the RemoteRig
WiFi adaptor, so I swapped in one from another unit --- same result.  Then
I tried typing in the name of my LAN, even though the scan showed only "x",
and the password.  I was immediately connected to my network.

If I then go to the RemoteRig using my browser, and ask for a WiFi scan
using the browser window, all broadcasting WiFi routers show up, complete
with names, signal strength and the kind of encryption they are using.

To add to my confusion, I moved the whole thing to a different home, in
another state, and it worked as before.  So, in NJ, my RemoteRig WiFi scan
shows me names of Wifi signals available using the Microbit Setup software.
 In MD, where is used to show the same, now I get only "x" next to each
WiFi signal being received.

This is surely something to do with my network and router setup in MD, but
I cannot figure out what it is.  My iPad and my iPhone both "discover" all
available networks. The RemoteRig WiFi adaptor does the same if accessed
through the browser, but comes up with only "x" when accessed through the
Microbit Setup Manager.

Not a big problem, but I am very curious as to why this should be the case.
 Any ideas?

73 de Brian W3BW



*Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
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[Elecraft] K3 FSK and psk

[Tom]

Hi
Is it possible to transmit a Carriage return/line feed with FSK and psk? 
If so is it a actual carriage return? 
Thanks, Tom 
va2fsq.com 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FSK and psk

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

In ASCII code (used for PSK), LF and CR are two separate characters.  LF 
= hex "A" and CR = hex "D".
A true CR has no line feed associated with it, and a LF has no CR 
associated with it.
So it depends on the application doing the sending (and perhaps also on 
the application receiving) to determine just what happens.


You asked about FSK - and that is similar.  If you are analyzing the 
characters sent in BAUDOT code, the same thing applies but LF is Hex "2" 
and CR is hex "8*.


So if you are developing your own code, you will have to handle them 
separately.  Normally folks expect the "Enter" key on a keyboard to do a 
CR and LF while the down arrow does a LF only while the "home" key would 
do a CR only.  Applications normally follow those conventions, so if you 
are looking at it from a keyboarding standpoint, the Enter key should do 
both when using a normal application.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/25/2014 6:27 PM, Tom wrote:

Hi
Is it possible to transmit a Carriage return/line feed with FSK and psk?
If so is it a actual carriage return?
Thanks, Tom
va2fsq.com



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Re: [Elecraft] RemoteRig WiFi Puzzler

[Mitch Wolfson DJØQN]

Brian,

You should ask this question on the RemoteRig forum, where the 
developers monitor and answer directly (a parallel universe to Elecraft).


73,
Mitch DJ0QN

Mitch Wolfson
DJØQN / K7DX
Neubiberger Str. 21, 85640 Putzbrunn
Skype: mitchwo - Home:+49 89 32152700 - Mobile:+49 172 8374436
Echolink: 3001 - IRLP: 5378

On 25.06.2014 23:22, Brian F. Wruble wrote:

Hi all:

I have been successfully using RemoteRig along with a K3/0 and my remote
K-Line at the main station.  This is a superb line-up of gear, and I have
complete control over the K-Line as long as the internet is good at both
ends.

I have added the WiFi card to the control-end RemoteRig (RRC-1258 MkII with
latest firmware.)  At first, everything seemed to work normally.  I could
go into the RemoteRig using the Microbit Setup Manager (ver 1.20), go to
the "WiFi" tab, select the "Setup" tab, click on "Scan", and all WiFi
networks in my vicinity would pop up.  I could select one, fill in the
password, the RemoteRig would connect to it, and I could then access the
RemoteRig using a browser on the same LAN by going to the right ip address
--- in my case 192.168.1.169.

At some point, things changed.  The Microbit Setup program scan now show
only "x" where previously it had shown the name of a Wifi access point, on
my local LAN.  I assumed that something had gone wrong with the RemoteRig
WiFi adaptor, so I swapped in one from another unit --- same result.  Then
I tried typing in the name of my LAN, even though the scan showed only "x",
and the password.  I was immediately connected to my network.

If I then go to the RemoteRig using my browser, and ask for a WiFi scan
using the browser window, all broadcasting WiFi routers show up, complete
with names, signal strength and the kind of encryption they are using.

To add to my confusion, I moved the whole thing to a different home, in
another state, and it worked as before.  So, in NJ, my RemoteRig WiFi scan
shows me names of Wifi signals available using the Microbit Setup software.
  In MD, where is used to show the same, now I get only "x" next to each
WiFi signal being received.

This is surely something to do with my network and router setup in MD, but
I cannot figure out what it is.  My iPad and my iPhone both "discover" all
available networks. The RemoteRig WiFi adaptor does the same if accessed
through the browser, but comes up with only "x" when accessed through the
Microbit Setup Manager.

Not a big problem, but I am very curious as to why this should be the case.
  Any ideas?

73 de Brian W3BW



*Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
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Re: [Elecraft] RemoteRig WiFi Puzzler

[Milt -- N5IA]

Mitch,

What is the access to the RemoteRig forum?

Milt, N5IA


-Original Message- 
From: Mitch Wolfson DJØQN

Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 3:57 PM
To: bwru...@gmail.com ; Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RemoteRig WiFi Puzzler

Brian,

You should ask this question on the RemoteRig forum, where the
developers monitor and answer directly (a parallel universe to Elecraft).

73,
Mitch DJ0QN

Mitch Wolfson
DJØQN / K7DX
Neubiberger Str. 21, 85640 Putzbrunn
Skype: mitchwo - Home:+49 89 32152700 - Mobile:+49 172 8374436
Echolink: 3001 - IRLP: 5378





-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4714 / Virus Database: 3986/7742 - Release Date: 06/25/14

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FSK and psk

[Tom]

Hi
Thanks for the info Don. 
So in the case of the k3, when one enters a carraige return/ lf at the keyboard 
using the k3 utility,  the k3 translates this to hex 8 and hex2 and sends this 
over the air if using fsk? 
73s 





 Original message 
From: Don Wilhelm  
Date: 25/06/2014  6:49 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 FSK and psk 
 
Tom,

In ASCII code (used for PSK), LF and CR are two separate characters.  LF 
= hex "A" and CR = hex "D".
A true CR has no line feed associated with it, and a LF has no CR 
associated with it.
So it depends on the application doing the sending (and perhaps also on 
the application receiving) to determine just what happens.

You asked about FSK - and that is similar.  If you are analyzing the 
characters sent in BAUDOT code, the same thing applies but LF is Hex "2" 
and CR is hex "8*.

So if you are developing your own code, you will have to handle them 
separately.  Normally folks expect the "Enter" key on a keyboard to do a 
CR and LF while the down arrow does a LF only while the "home" key would 
do a CR only.  Applications normally follow those conventions, so if you 
are looking at it from a keyboarding standpoint, the Enter key should do 
both when using a normal application.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/25/2014 6:27 PM, Tom wrote:
> Hi
> Is it possible to transmit a Carriage return/line feed with FSK and psk?
> If so is it a actual carriage return?
> Thanks, Tom
> va2fsq.com
>

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Re: [Elecraft] RemoteRig WiFi Puzzler

[bwru...@gmail.com]

I just signed up using the link from Mitch. I cannot post to their forum until 
I get an email saying I am approved.  Brian



Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
From my iPad


> On Jun 25, 2014, at 7:06 PM, "Milt -- N5IA"  wrote:
> 
> Mitch,
> 
> What is the access to the RemoteRig forum?
> 
> Milt, N5IA
> 
> 
> -Original Message- From: Mitch Wolfson DJØQN
> Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 3:57 PM
> To: bwru...@gmail.com ; Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RemoteRig WiFi Puzzler
> 
> Brian,
> 
> You should ask this question on the RemoteRig forum, where the
> developers monitor and answer directly (a parallel universe to Elecraft).
> 
> 73,
> Mitch DJ0QN
> 
> Mitch Wolfson
> DJØQN / K7DX
> Neubiberger Str. 21, 85640 Putzbrunn
> Skype: mitchwo - Home:+49 89 32152700 - Mobile:+49 172 8374436
> Echolink: 3001 - IRLP: 5378
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4714 / Virus Database: 3986/7742 - Release Date: 06/25/14
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] RemoteRig WiFi Puzzler

[Walter Underwood]

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=remoterig+forum

wunder
K6WRU

On Jun 25, 2014, at 4:06 PM, "Milt -- N5IA"  wrote:

> Mitch,
> 
> What is the access to the RemoteRig forum?
> 
> Milt, N5IA
> 
> 
> -Original Message- From: Mitch Wolfson DJØQN
> Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 3:57 PM
> To: bwru...@gmail.com ; Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RemoteRig WiFi Puzzler
> 
> Brian,
> 
> You should ask this question on the RemoteRig forum, where the
> developers monitor and answer directly (a parallel universe to Elecraft).
> 
> 73,
> Mitch DJ0QN
> 
> Mitch Wolfson
> DJØQN / K7DX
> Neubiberger Str. 21, 85640 Putzbrunn
> Skype: mitchwo - Home:+49 89 32152700 - Mobile:+49 172 8374436
> Echolink: 3001 - IRLP: 5378
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4714 / Virus Database: 3986/7742 - Release Date: 06/25/14
> 
> __
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> Message delivered to wun...@wunderwood.org

--
Walter Underwood
wun...@wunderwood.org



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Re: [Elecraft] RemoteRig WiFi Puzzler

[Michael Walker]

I agree.  The microbit guys jump on this stuff.

Mike va3mw



On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 6:57 PM, Mitch Wolfson DJØQN  wrote:

> Brian,
>
> You should ask this question on the RemoteRig forum, where the developers
> monitor and answer directly (a parallel universe to Elecraft).
>
> 73,
> Mitch DJ0QN
>
> Mitch Wolfson
> DJØQN / K7DX
> Neubiberger Str. 21, 85640 Putzbrunn
> Skype: mitchwo - Home:+49 89 32152700 - Mobile:+49 172 8374436
> Echolink: 3001 - IRLP: 5378
>
>
> On 25.06.2014 23:22, Brian F. Wruble wrote:
>
>> Hi all:
>>
>> I have been successfully using RemoteRig along with a K3/0 and my remote
>> K-Line at the main station.  This is a superb line-up of gear, and I have
>> complete control over the K-Line as long as the internet is good at both
>> ends.
>>
>> I have added the WiFi card to the control-end RemoteRig (RRC-1258 MkII
>> with
>> latest firmware.)  At first, everything seemed to work normally.  I could
>> go into the RemoteRig using the Microbit Setup Manager (ver 1.20), go to
>> the "WiFi" tab, select the "Setup" tab, click on "Scan", and all WiFi
>> networks in my vicinity would pop up.  I could select one, fill in the
>> password, the RemoteRig would connect to it, and I could then access the
>> RemoteRig using a browser on the same LAN by going to the right ip address
>> --- in my case 192.168.1.169.
>>
>> At some point, things changed.  The Microbit Setup program scan now show
>> only "x" where previously it had shown the name of a Wifi access point, on
>> my local LAN.  I assumed that something had gone wrong with the RemoteRig
>> WiFi adaptor, so I swapped in one from another unit --- same result.  Then
>> I tried typing in the name of my LAN, even though the scan showed only
>> "x",
>> and the password.  I was immediately connected to my network.
>>
>> If I then go to the RemoteRig using my browser, and ask for a WiFi scan
>> using the browser window, all broadcasting WiFi routers show up, complete
>> with names, signal strength and the kind of encryption they are using.
>>
>> To add to my confusion, I moved the whole thing to a different home, in
>> another state, and it worked as before.  So, in NJ, my RemoteRig WiFi scan
>> shows me names of Wifi signals available using the Microbit Setup
>> software.
>>   In MD, where is used to show the same, now I get only "x" next to each
>> WiFi signal being received.
>>
>> This is surely something to do with my network and router setup in MD, but
>> I cannot figure out what it is.  My iPad and my iPhone both "discover" all
>> available networks. The RemoteRig WiFi adaptor does the same if accessed
>> through the browser, but comes up with only "x" when accessed through the
>> Microbit Setup Manager.
>>
>> Not a big problem, but I am very curious as to why this should be the
>> case.
>>   Any ideas?
>>
>> 73 de Brian W3BW
>>
>>
>>
>> *Brian F. Wruble, C.F.A.
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] HRD/DM-780, Elecraft K3 and soundcard

[Tony Lyon]

Hi Gerald,
My K3 is indeed set to Data Mode. The bandwidth is set correctly and I 
also have the default settings.
I also have re-installed HRD/DM780 I also re-checked the Signalink 
soundcard settings and they are OK.

Still no go... TX is fine, RX drops characters.

73,
Tony L. (KJ5XF)

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Re: [Elecraft] HRD/DM-780, Elecraft K3 and soundcard

[Tony Lyon]

Hi Steve,
I had the slider at about 25% and I moved it all the way to the left. 
Still no change.


73,
Tony L. (KJ5XF)


Tony…

There is a SQUELCH slider near the top above the receive window (grayish 
horizontal bar moving). My slider was in the middle and when I moved the slider 
to the left all the way, I had solid copy. Where is yours set at?

73, Steve K6SAB


On Jun 24, 2014, at 6:47 PM, Tony Lyon  wrote:


Folks,
I decided to try HRD/DM780 for first time after using another HF digital 
software program for
probably 10 years.  I am using an Elecraft K3 and a SignaLink USB interface and 
both
MixW and MultiPSK fine with ZERO problems on either RX or TX. With HRD/DM780 
(version 6.2)  the K3
will  TX fine (great signal reports), but on RX (with the Audio input set 
between 50-60%), I only get about
90% copy even with a solid OLIVIA signal in the waterfall. I have tried all 
kinds of SYNC/TUNE Margins
(while using OLIVIA) to no avail. I have also tried all different levels of 
audio RX input to no avail.
If someone could share their SignaLink  and any K3 LINE-IN/LINE-OUT config 
values to get DM780 to work I
would appreciate it. I have been at this for a week (part time) and still can't 
get DM780 to work correctly
with my K3.

There is clearly a parameter I am missing, but the documentation for setting up 
the soundcard for version
is 6.2 is a tad vague.

73,
Tony L. (KJ5XF)




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Re: [Elecraft] HRD/DM-780, Elecraft K3 and soundcard

[Tony Lyon]

Hi Sal,
Yes, I went through the Signalink audio level config again and no change.
The Signalink pots are also set just like yours.

73,
Tony L. (KJ5XF)

Hi Tony!
Have you gone through the Signalink audio levels config procedure?
Is it possible that its just Windows audio levels that are low?
All my Signalink pots (except Delay) are usually at 12 o'clock.

__
Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS
w2...@arrl.net

On Jun 24, 2014, at 9:47 PM, Tony Lyon  wrote:


Folks,
I decided to try HRD/DM780 for first time after using another HF digital 
software program for
probably 10 years.  I am using an Elecraft K3 and a SignaLink USB interface and 
both
MixW and MultiPSK fine with ZERO problems on either RX or TX. With HRD/DM780 
(version 6.2)  the K3
will  TX fine (great signal reports), but on RX (with the Audio input set 
between 50-60%), I only get about
90% copy even with a solid OLIVIA signal in the waterfall. I have tried all 
kinds of SYNC/TUNE Margins
(while using OLIVIA) to no avail. I have also tried all different levels of 
audio RX input to no avail.
If someone could share their SignaLink  and any K3 LINE-IN/LINE-OUT config 
values to get DM780 to work I
would appreciate it. I have been at this for a week (part time) and still can't 
get DM780 to work correctly
with my K3.

There is clearly a parameter I am missing, but the documentation for setting up 
the soundcard for version
is 6.2 is a tad vague.

73,
Tony L. (KJ5XF)




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Re: [Elecraft] HRD/DM-780, Elecraft K3 and soundcard

[Don Wilhelm]

Tony,

First make sure that you have a good audio connection from Line Out to 
the soundcard.  Use good quality cables that do not pick up noise.


What happens if you eliminate the Signalink - change HRD to use the 
computer default soundcard and connect from that soundcard line out to 
the K3 Line In - if decode is OK under that situation, look for the 
problem in the Signalink soundcard.
The built-in soundcard in most modern computers is one of the HD types, 
and is much more than sufficient for use with data modes.


On troubleshooting -- When you have a problem, suspect everything and 
eliminate the possible suspects one at a time.  Substitution is always a 
good analysis tool.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/25/2014 7:42 PM, Tony Lyon wrote:

Hi Sal,
Yes, I went through the Signalink audio level config again and no change.
The Signalink pots are also set just like yours.

73,
Tony L. (KJ5XF)

Hi Tony!
Have you gone through the Signalink audio levels config procedure?
Is it possible that its just Windows audio levels that are low?
All my Signalink pots (except Delay) are usually at 12 o'clock.

__
Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS
w2...@arrl.net

On Jun 24, 2014, at 9:47 PM, Tony Lyon  wrote:


Folks,
I decided to try HRD/DM780 for first time after using another HF 
digital software program for
probably 10 years.  I am using an Elecraft K3 and a SignaLink USB 
interface and both
MixW and MultiPSK fine with ZERO problems on either RX or TX. With 
HRD/DM780 (version 6.2)  the K3
will  TX fine (great signal reports), but on RX (with the Audio 
input set between 50-60%), I only get about
90% copy even with a solid OLIVIA signal in the waterfall. I have 
tried all kinds of SYNC/TUNE Margins
(while using OLIVIA) to no avail. I have also tried all different 
levels of audio RX input to no avail.
If someone could share their SignaLink  and any K3 LINE-IN/LINE-OUT 
config values to get DM780 to work I
would appreciate it. I have been at this for a week (part time) and 
still can't get DM780 to work correctly

with my K3.

There is clearly a parameter I am missing, but the documentation for 
setting up the soundcard for version

is 6.2 is a tad vague.

73,
Tony L. (KJ5XF)




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Re: [Elecraft] HRD/DM-780, Elecraft K3 and soundcard

[Don Wilhelm]

Looking at what I sent, I got Line In and Line Out reversed.
Tony is having problems decoding, so the Soundcard Line In and the K3 
Line Out are the ones that are to be moved to the computer built-in 
soundcard.


73,
Don W3FPR


Tony,

First make sure that you have a good audio connection from Line Out to 
the soundcard.  Use good quality cables that do not pick up noise.


What happens if you eliminate the Signalink - change HRD to use the 
computer default soundcard and connect from that soundcard line out to 
the K3 Line In - if decode is OK under that situation, look for the 
problem in the Signalink soundcard.
The built-in soundcard in most modern computers is one of the HD types, 
and is much more than sufficient for use with data modes.


On troubleshooting -- When you have a problem, suspect everything and 
eliminate the possible suspects one at a time.  Substitution is always a 
good analysis tool.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/25/2014 7:42 PM, Tony Lyon wrote:

Hi Sal,
Yes, I went through the Signalink audio level config again and no change.
The Signalink pots are also set just like yours.

73,
Tony L. (KJ5XF)

Hi Tony!
Have you gone through the Signalink audio levels config procedure?
Is it possible that its just Windows audio levels that are low?
All my Signalink pots (except Delay) are usually at 12 o'clock.

__
Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS
w2...@arrl.net

On Jun 24, 2014, at 9:47 PM, Tony Lyon  wrote:


Folks,
I decided to try HRD/DM780 for first time after using another HF
digital software program for
probably 10 years.  I am using an Elecraft K3 and a SignaLink USB
interface and both
MixW and MultiPSK fine with ZERO problems on either RX or TX. With
HRD/DM780 (version 6.2)  the K3
will  TX fine (great signal reports), but on RX (with the Audio
input set between 50-60%), I only get about
90% copy even with a solid OLIVIA signal in the waterfall. I have
tried all kinds of SYNC/TUNE Margins
(while using OLIVIA) to no avail. I have also tried all different
levels of audio RX input to no avail.
If someone could share their SignaLink  and any K3 LINE-IN/LINE-OUT
config values to get DM780 to work I
would appreciate it. I have been at this for a week (part time) and
still can't get DM780 to work correctly
with my K3.

There is clearly a parameter I am missing, but the documentation for
setting up the soundcard for version
is 6.2 is a tad vague.

73,
Tony L. (KJ5XF)




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Re: [Elecraft] HRD/DM-780, Elecraft K3 and soundcard

[Gerald Manthey]

Tony
You said you used fldigi or some other software before.
Did you run Olvida? If so then hardware fine its a HRD setting.
Confirm that and I will go check mine in that mode while waiting.
Gerald
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[Elecraft] RF in the Trees

[Dauer, Edward]

I have been playing with the two-tree solution to the one tree problem,
with a family of inverted Vees (and a K3 and KX3, for keeping this on
topic).  The "one tree problem" is that a Vee hoisted onto a top limb of a
coniferous tree is inevitably too close to if not tangled into the
branches below the apex.  So, I've been selecting two of the tallest
candidates a couple of hundred feet apart and stringing a stout nylon rope
between them.  In the middle of the cord I attach the balun for the Vees,
thereby allowing the legs to be in the clear, moveable from side to side,
and tied to smaller (8') trees at their distal ends.  In one variation on
the theme I had a 40 meter dipole as the center section of the supporting
rope, tied to the same balun as an 80 meter vee.  In another I tried a
linear-loaded 80-meter Vee, about 45' on a leg; it loaded fine but didn't
perform as well as the full length version.

The surrounding forest is very likely still a problem, but that's life in
the woods.

Ted, KN1CBR


>
>Message: 8
>Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2014 12:14:27 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
>From: Fred Townsend 
>To: Rstafford12 , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] extended double Zepp
>Message-ID:
>   
> <18197016.1403723667813.javamail.r...@elwamui-huard.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
>   
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
>Richard:
>I have run a double Zepp hung from the trees as you suggest. If you can
>do it I would get the antenna across the tops of the trees. 45' is too
>low for 80M unless you are running NVIS in which case you are too high at
>45'. Keep in mind that pine trees are parasitic so keep the wire, even if
>insulated, away from the trees. Inverted V works if you can't maintain
>60'.
>73,
>Fred, AE6QL
>
>
>-Original Message-
>>From: Rstafford12 
>>Sent: Jun 25, 2014 11:12 AM
>>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>Subject: [Elecraft] extended double Zepp
>>
>>I realize this is another somewhat not on topic post, but it is in
>>regards to my KX1 and KX3. I have a mature pine forest; 60 -70 foot
>>trees. How compromised would an EDZ be hung 45 feet up about four rows
>>of trees in from the perimeter? No branches or needles inside the forest
>>until 50 feet up. Richard KD0NPM
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees [OT]

[Michael Walker]

I run the following antennas in some pretty serious forest, and I get great
results with them all:


   - 160M Inverted L with elevated radials over Pine trees.  The tree is
   about 90ft tall and then the insulated wire loops over a branch
   - 80M Vertical also will elevated radials (the rope goes over a branch
   at 90ft)
   - 80M V with the apex at 70ft over a single Pine tree
   - 132ft Windom supported at both ends with a center support over
   hardwood trees at 60ft.

In all cases, you have to be created to allow for flex as the wind blows.
 It has taken some trial and effort, but you'll figure it out by watching
things move.  Yes, you'll break it a few times, but eventually you'll come
up with a solution.

The worst case for moving resonance is the Windom, but that is easy to deal
with.

The 160M vertical varies is resonance point, but that is due to the ground
conductivity changing from winter to summer.

As I mentioned earlier, just do it.  It will work.

I have used both air cannons and my quad copters to drop my lines in place.


Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] HRD/DM-780, Elecraft K3 and soundcard

[Tony Lyon]

Folks,
I want to thank _/*ALL*/_ of you who sent feedback!!! I narrowed the 
issue I was having with the RX

down to the the following:

a) The SQUELCH default (25%) was simply too high. I lowered it to 4%
b) For some interesting reason, I had to drop the audio input down to 
about 15%. This level

is WA lower than what I need on either MixW or MultiPsk.


With the 2 tweaks mentioned above, now copy is where it should. That's 
what I really enjoy

about this Elecraft email list. Lots of good feedback...

73,
Tony Lyon (KJ5XF)


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Re: [Elecraft] Experience with KXPA100

[Igor Sokolov]

It was worth mentioning that my KX3 is supplied from the second pair of APP 
connectors of KXPA100. Therefore KX3 shows the total voltage drop on all the 
wires including relatively thin wires going from KXPA100 to KX3. These wires 
add about 0.6V drop to the picture.

The power supply though is pretty good. It is ALINCO 330 capable of 30 amps.
I just wanted to stress that output power of KXPA100 is pretty dependant on 
PS voltage and voltage drop in the wires.


73, Igor UA9CDC
- Original Message - 
From: "K8JHR" 

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 6:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Experience with KXPA100


Er...  um...  is such a large voltage drop typical?   We don't see that 
happening on Brand X amps using good power supplies.  I understand the 
voltage drop when going from, say, 10 to 100 watts should be minimal, like 
no more than .2 volts.   I have also seen this sort of power output 
weakness in some transceivers which are rather picky about voltage sag 
when running full tilt.


I would check the power supply and try one that does not sag more than .1 
or .2 volts on full power.  I suspect the amp is good, the power supply 
not.


Just My take.
  K8JHR   --

On 6/24/2014 4:46 PM, Igor Sokolov wrote:

  it much depends on the voltage of the

power supply and voltage drop on the feeding wires.


The voltage drop at this power is about 1.2 V according
to KX3 meter.

The voltage  meter of KX3 shows then 11.1 V at that power.

IMHO KXPA100 is pretty sensitive to voltage of the power supply.









/
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Re: [Elecraft] extended double Zepp

[Doug Person via Elecraft]

When I moved my 80/40 trapped dipole from 40 feet to 60 feet I 
immediately started hearing strong DX on both bands.  I use a slingshot 
with a 1 oz fishing weight and 35 lb mono-filament line. The old 
fashioned slingshot without the wrist support works best. The wrist 
support seems to somehow complicate the launch and snag the line.  I 
paint the weight fluorescent orange to make it easier to find on the 
other side of the tree.


45 feet works great for 20.  But, the extra height really makes a huge 
difference on 40 and 80.  I worked New Zealand on 40 with 10 watts out 
of the KX3.  I never heard New Zealand on 40 ever until jacking up the wire.



73, Doug --K0DXV

On 6/25/14, 1:14 PM, Fred Townsend wrote:

Richard:
I have run a double Zepp hung from the trees as you suggest. If you can do it I 
would get the antenna across the tops of the trees. 45' is too low for 80M 
unless you are running NVIS in which case you are too high at 45'. Keep in mind 
that pine trees are parasitic so keep the wire, even if insulated, away from 
the trees. Inverted V works if you can't maintain 60'.
73,
Fred, AE6QL


-Original Message-

From: Rstafford12 
Sent: Jun 25, 2014 11:12 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] extended double Zepp

I realize this is another somewhat not on topic post, but it is in regards to 
my KX1 and KX3. I have a mature pine forest; 60 -70 foot trees. How compromised 
would an EDZ be hung 45 feet up about four rows of trees in from the perimeter? 
No branches or needles inside the forest until 50 feet up. Richard KD0NPM

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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

[Doug Person via Elecraft]

I use a similar approach.  I have a very strong Kevlar line strung 
between two tall trees and the dipoles are at least 40 feet from either 
tree.  My dipoles at 60 feet out perform my beam at 30 feet by a 
substantial margin.


Doug, K0DXV

On 6/25/14, 6:43 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

I have been playing with the two-tree solution to the one tree problem,
with a family of inverted Vees (and a K3 and KX3, for keeping this on
topic).  The "one tree problem" is that a Vee hoisted onto a top limb of a
coniferous tree is inevitably too close to if not tangled into the
branches below the apex.  So, I've been selecting two of the tallest
candidates a couple of hundred feet apart and stringing a stout nylon rope
between them.  In the middle of the cord I attach the balun for the Vees,
thereby allowing the legs to be in the clear, moveable from side to side,
and tied to smaller (8') trees at their distal ends.  In one variation on
the theme I had a 40 meter dipole as the center section of the supporting
rope, tied to the same balun as an 80 meter vee.  In another I tried a
linear-loaded 80-meter Vee, about 45' on a leg; it loaded fine but didn't
perform as well as the full length version.

The surrounding forest is very likely still a problem, but that's life in
the woods.

Ted, KN1CBR



Message: 8
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2014 12:14:27 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
From: Fred Townsend 
To: Rstafford12 , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] extended double Zepp
Message-ID:

<18197016.1403723667813.javamail.r...@elwamui-huard.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Richard:
I have run a double Zepp hung from the trees as you suggest. If you can
do it I would get the antenna across the tops of the trees. 45' is too
low for 80M unless you are running NVIS in which case you are too high at
45'. Keep in mind that pine trees are parasitic so keep the wire, even if
insulated, away from the trees. Inverted V works if you can't maintain
60'.
73,
Fred, AE6QL


-Original Message-

From: Rstafford12 
Sent: Jun 25, 2014 11:12 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] extended double Zepp

I realize this is another somewhat not on topic post, but it is in
regards to my KX1 and KX3. I have a mature pine forest; 60 -70 foot
trees. How compromised would an EDZ be hung 45 feet up about four rows
of trees in from the perimeter? No branches or needles inside the forest
until 50 feet up. Richard KD0NPM



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[Elecraft] Experience with KXPA100

[Johnny Siu]

I also use the same Alinco 330 PSU.  It is a good PSU with stable output and no 
noticeable RFI.

73

Johnny VR2XMC
 


 寄件人︰ Igor Sokolov 
收件人︰ K8JHR ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
傳送日期︰ 2014年06月26日 (週四) 10:27 AM
主題︰ Re: [Elecraft] Experience with KXPA100
  

It was worth mentioning that my KX3 is supplied from the second pair of APP 
connectors of KXPA100. Therefore KX3 shows the total voltage drop on all the 
wires including relatively thin wires going from KXPA100 to KX3. These wires 
add about 0.6V drop to the picture.
The power supply though is pretty good. It is ALINCO 330 capable of 30 amps.
I just wanted to stress that output power of KXPA100 is pretty dependant on 
PS voltage and voltage drop in the wires.

73, Igor UA9CDC
- Original Message - 
From: "K8JHR" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2014 6:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Experience with KXPA100


> Er...  um...  is such a large voltage drop typical?   We don't see that 
> happening on Brand X amps using good power supplies.  I understand the 
> voltage drop when going from, say, 10 to 100 watts should be minimal, like 
> no more than .2 volts.   I have also seen this sort of power output 
> weakness in some transceivers which are rather picky about voltage sag 
> when running full tilt.
>
> I would check the power supply and try one that does not sag more than .1 
> or .2 volts on full power.  I suspect the amp is good, the power supply 
> not.
>
> Just My take.
>   K8JHR   --
>
> On 6/24/2014 4:46 PM, Igor Sokolov wrote:
>
>   it much depends on the voltage of the
>> power supply and voltage drop on the feeding wires.
>
> The voltage drop at this power is about 1.2 V according
> to KX3 meter.
>
> The voltage  meter of KX3 shows then 11.1 V at that power.
>> IMHO KXPA100 is pretty sensitive to voltage of the power supply.
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>
>
> /
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees [OT]

[Doug Person via Elecraft]

The best trick I've found in dealing with moving trees is running the 
line through a pulley down to a weight that is heavy enough to keep the 
things reasonably taught.  The trees can move all the want and the line 
just rides on the pulleys.


Doug -- K0DXV

On 6/25/14, 6:51 PM, Michael Walker wrote:

I run the following antennas in some pretty serious forest, and I get great
results with them all:


- 160M Inverted L with elevated radials over Pine trees.  The tree is
about 90ft tall and then the insulated wire loops over a branch
- 80M Vertical also will elevated radials (the rope goes over a branch
at 90ft)
- 80M V with the apex at 70ft over a single Pine tree
- 132ft Windom supported at both ends with a center support over
hardwood trees at 60ft.

In all cases, you have to be created to allow for flex as the wind blows.
  It has taken some trial and effort, but you'll figure it out by watching
things move.  Yes, you'll break it a few times, but eventually you'll come
up with a solution.

The worst case for moving resonance is the Windom, but that is easy to deal
with.

The 160M vertical varies is resonance point, but that is due to the ground
conductivity changing from winter to summer.

As I mentioned earlier, just do it.  It will work.

I have used both air cannons and my quad copters to drop my lines in place.


Mike va3mw
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Re: [Elecraft] [KXPA100] Power-on slide switch ?

[Gerry leary]

I never had a problem with the slide switches in my Swan 500-c either.

Sent from my iPhone this time 

> On Jun 25, 2014, at 10:21 AM, ke9uw  wrote:
> 
> I am a ret. EE and years ago I bought a new Drake 2B. When I sent the
> warranty in, I mentioned the slide switches. I got a nice letter back from a
> Drake engineer who assured me that the slide switches had been selected to
> be most reliable and I should have no issues with them. And I never had any
> issues with them.
> EE's don't know everything...well almost, but not about slide switches :).
> 
> 
> 
> -
> Chuck, KE9UW
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KXPA100-Power-on-slide-switch-tp7590470p7590528.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] extended double Zepp

[Hank Garretson]

On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 12:14 PM, Fred Townsend 
wrote:

... 45' is too low for 80M unless you are running NVIS in which case you
> are too high at 45'. ...
>

Please don't take this comment too literally.

Yes, for eighty, put your horizontal antenna as high as you can manage. But
if 45 feet is the best you can manage, go with it.

My antenna is 46 feet high, and I work the world on eighty.

Put your eighty-meter antenna as high as you can and then get on the air
and have fun. You'll work plenty of guys all over the world.

73,

Hank, W6SX
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees [OT]

[Fred Townsend]

Hi Doug:
I use a similar technique in suspending my antennas. I thought I would add some 
do's and don'ts. Like don't forget copper will stretch. I use 1 gallon paint 
buckets full of dirt for about 10# of weight on the pulleys. I suspend the rope 
in a tree yoke or a limb close to the trunk to minimize sway. Be sure there is 
pleanty of travel for wind storms. 

The ends of the antenna are 'hotter' than the feed point so I like to clear the 
end of the antenna and the tree with at least 8' of rope. If I have a middle 
support I use a yard arm of at least 4'. If you are using an antenna like a 
G5RV, Windom, or zepp that uses a portion of the feed line as a match, don't 
forget that portion will be radiating too so keep it vertical and away from the 
tree. 

I have found pine and eucalyptus trees to be the worst for parasitic absorption 
but I think that is largely a function of the volume of sap and water so the 
wetter the more loss and the further away you want to keep the antenna.


73,
Fred, AE6QL 
,
-Original Message-
>From: Doug Person via Elecraft 
>Sent: Jun 25, 2014 8:03 PM
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees [OT]
>
>The best trick I've found in dealing with moving trees is running the 
>line through a pulley down to a weight that is heavy enough to keep the 
>things reasonably taught.  The trees can move all the want and the line 
>just rides on the pulleys.
>
>Doug -- K0DXV
>
>
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[Elecraft] [KX3] Cooler KXT Aftermarket KX3 Heatsink Upgrade -- Website Grand Opening

[fredem]

I am thrilled to announce that I now have a website that's worthy of my
premier Cooler KXT product line, of aftermarket KX3 heatsinks.  I invite you
to visit and check out my products up close; their superiority is evident!
The URL is http://www.ve7fmn.ca/

Especially note that the performance of my heatsinks has been
independently verified by my customers, who include:  a Physicist and an
Electrical Engineer.

Even though this is my site's grand opening, it is still evolving, with
new material being added almost hourly.  So, I invite you to stop by again
soon to see what's new.

--- - - - ---

My first production run sold out around the end of May and the second
run is currently "in paint".  Painted units will begin shipping next week,
while "Clear Chromate Conversion" undercoated and "raw/unfinished" units are
already shipping from stock.

I hope to reduce if not completely eliminate the need for backordering
between future production runs.

Cheers & 73,
Fred  VE7FMN
"Simply Better Manufacturing"

P.S.  Grateful thanks to K7ADD, KI4GGX, 5B4AIY, G4GOC, W3FPR, K7PEH, W6ELA,
and others for their contributions to this project.






--
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http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-Cooler-KXT-Aftermarket-KX3-Heatsink-Upgrade-Website-Grand-Opening-tp7590564.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] RF in the Trees

[Jim Brown]

On 6/25/2014 5:43 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

So, I've been selecting two of the tallest
candidates a couple of hundred feet apart and stringing a stout nylon rope
between them.  In the middle of the cord I attach the balun for the Vees,
thereby allowing the legs to be in the clear, moveable from side to side,
and tied to smaller (8') trees at their distal ends.  In one variation on
the theme I had a 40 meter dipole as the center section of the supporting
rope, tied to the same balun as an 80 meter vee.  In another I tried a
linear-loaded 80-meter Vee, about 45' on a leg; it loaded fine but didn't
perform as well as the full length version.


If you can suspend a flat antenna between two tall trees, why would you 
want an inverted vee, which is a less effective radiator?


Your two trees 200 ft apart could support a full size 80/40 fan and a 
20/15/10 fan, in line with each other. A high 80/40 fan is a VERY good 
antenna, and is easy to build.


My technique has evolved to starting with #8 bare copper from the big 
box store, stretch it VERY slowly between a tree and a trailer hitch 
until it breaks. Do this carefully where there's no one around to get 
hurt. Now you have #10 hard drawn copper, which is pretty strong, and 
pre-stretched. Use that for the longest dipole in each fan. Use #12 or 
#14 THHN (house wire) for the other elements. I make spacers by cutting 
1/2-in PVC conduit into lengths of about 16 in for 3-wire fans, and 
about 12 inches for 2-wire fans. 5-6 ft between spacers is a good rule 
of thumb. Hold the spacers in place by soldering short lengths of copper 
around the spacer to the bare copper of the long element.


The higher your antenna is, the more robust your center insulator should 
be. A high 80/40 dipole (80 ft or more) will be closer to 75 ohms than 
50 ohms. A 20/15/10 fan will be close to 50 ohms. Use RG8 or RG11 
depending on the Z at resonance. Don't waste a dB or two with small 
coax. My 110 ft 80/40 fans are fed with Belden 8213.


For weights, I fill 6 gallon water jugs with dry sand, and tie one to 
one end of each span. The other end can be fixed. I have pulleys high my 
trees. If you don't have a pulley and weight, your antenna WILL end up 
on the ground, and it won't take a big storm for that to happen.


My HF antennas are all at the 110-120 ft level in a dense redwood forest 
that towers 50-75 ft above them. They work. My "seat of the pants" 
observation is that attenuation increases with frequency, and is 
greatest with vertical polarization. 432 MHz is a waste of time, 2M sort 
of works, and 6M works pretty well.


For an analysis of the value of height, study this. It supports the 
statement earlier in this thread that a high dipole beats a low tri-bander.


http://k9yc.com/VertOrHorizontal-Slides.pdf

When Fred observes that the ends of antennas are "hotter," he means that 
this is voltage maxima and a current minima, so good insulation is 
needed to whatever the antenna is attached. I once melted heavy dacron 
rope that was tied directly to the end of said dipole (well, twice, 
actually). The extra ingredient was that it was wet. Duh.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] Cooler KXT Aftermarket KX3 Heatsink Upgrade -- Website Grand Opening

[Gary W. Hvizdak]

I saw (in the archives).  TNX.  A mighty fine post if I may say so!
 
From: fredem [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+s365791n7590564...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Thursday 26 Jun 2014 0151
To: Gary W. Hvizdak
Subject: [KX3] Cooler KXT Aftermarket KX3 Heatsink Upgrade -- Website Grand
Opening
 

I am thrilled to announce that I now have a website that's worthy of my 
premier Cooler KXT product line, of aftermarket KX3 heatsinks.  I invite you

to visit and check out my products up close; their superiority is evident! 
The URL is http://www.ve7fmn.ca/

Especially note that the performance of my heatsinks has been 
independently verified by my customers, who include:  a Physicist and an 
Electrical Engineer. 

Even though this is my site's grand opening, it is still evolving, with 
new material being added almost hourly.  So, I invite you to stop by again 
soon to see what's new. 

--- - - - --- 

My first production run sold out around the end of May and the second 
run is currently "in paint".  Painted units will begin shipping next week, 
while "Clear Chromate Conversion" undercoated and "raw/unfinished" units are

already shipping from stock. 

I hope to reduce if not completely eliminate the need for backordering 
between future production runs. 

Cheers & 73, 
Fred  VE7FMN 
"Simply Better Manufacturing" 

P.S.  Grateful thanks to K7ADD, KI4GGX, 5B4AIY, G4GOC, W3FPR, K7PEH, W6ELA, 
and others for their contributions to this project. 




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