Re: [Elecraft] Hi SWR on 40mtrs

[Bill Ellis via Elecraft]

To all that provided assistance with this problem  many thanks. 
Yes, the antenna was set to ANT 2. Story is for 47 yrs I ran a Drake B-line and 
when something was changed on the radio, it affected the entire unit. Along 
comes my K3( love this radio) and now I've learned that there are parts that 
are set on individual bands. When I was asked if the K3 was set to ANT 2, I 
responded no. BUT at that moment was not on 40 meters. I then switched to 40 
and then saw that 40 WAS set to ANT 2...problem solved.

73's and thanks all,
Bill Ellis, WB9CAC

  From: Bill Ellis 
 To: Elecraft Support ; Elecraft K3 
; Elecraft Reflector  
 Sent: Monday, December 26, 2016 3:23 PM
 Subject: Hi SWR on 40mtrs
  
Hi all, 
My K3 has been operating quite well until yesterday. I went to tune-up om 40 
mtrs and the autotuner registered 25:1. On all other bands, it tunes properly. 
I then put my analyzer on the coax in the shack and it read 2.1:1. Should not 
be a problem for the autotuner. From what I'm seeing, the problem appears to be 
with the K3. What am I missing here?
Thanks for any help.
Bill Ellis, WB9CAC


   
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Re: [Elecraft] No"tun" for my KX1

[Paul C]

All I was trying to say is that since I have so many odd questions, it would be 
a whole lot more efficient to actually talk on the phone with someone.  Luckily 
for me Don has offered to do just this, and I'm sure we'll get my situation 
straightened out.

Yeah, I read the manual and website too, and while I understand most of it, 
there are some descriptions which can be interpreted in a few different ways, 
so this has left me a bit confused. 

Anyway, thanks for the tips.

Paul KG5KXG

-Original Message-
From: "Nr4c" 
Sent: ‎12/‎27/‎2016 10:38 PM
To: "Paul C" 
Cc: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] No"tun" for my KX1

Have you looked at the web site or even the manual for the radio concerning 
tech support?  Manual???  Download the PDF from the website.   

YES, Virginia, they do have real tech support.   But I'll bet you'll find the 
answers here as well. Likely from the owners or designers themselves. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Dec 27, 2016, at 9:37 AM, Paul C  wrote:
> 
> I was wondering if Elecraft has a real tech support phone number or official 
> support email address aside from this user forum.  I ask because I am a 
> novice to this rig and QRP in general, and I have several short critical 
> questions which are much too tedious for email.
> 
> Construction went smoothly but now I'm at the testing point and I'm a little 
> uncertain on what to expect.  The manual is a little vague.  I guess I need a 
> genuine tutorial.  
> 
> I called the number lists in the manual and it was disconnected.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Paul KG5KXG
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Nr4c]

Carefull. Are they wire-wound power resisters cased in ceramic. If so they are 
likely inductive and of marginal use as withvRF they will not be just resistive 
but somewhat inductive and this will skew your results. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Dec 27, 2016, at 9:43 AM, Paul C  wrote:
> 
> I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
> parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
> measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
> should I reduce it to 50?
> 
> Paul KG5KXG
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Re: [Elecraft] No"tun" for my KX1

[Nr4c]

Have you looked at the web site or even the manual for the radio concerning 
tech support?  Manual???  Download the PDF from the website.   

YES, Virginia, they do have real tech support.   But I'll bet you'll find the 
answers here as well. Likely from the owners or designers themselves. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Dec 27, 2016, at 9:37 AM, Paul C  wrote:
> 
> I was wondering if Elecraft has a real tech support phone number or official 
> support email address aside from this user forum.  I ask because I am a 
> novice to this rig and QRP in general, and I have several short critical 
> questions which are much too tedious for email.
> 
> Construction went smoothly but now I'm at the testing point and I'm a little 
> uncertain on what to expect.  The manual is a little vague.  I guess I need a 
> genuine tutorial.  
> 
> I called the number lists in the manual and it was disconnected.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Paul KG5KXG
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Re: [Elecraft] RemoteRig Microphone Question

[Jim Larson]

I tested it again “just taping on the button” and verified that the XMIT button 
turns on the TX light, but no audio is sent to the remote end.  Maybe rigs like 
the K3/0 where you plug the mic into the rig directly, it may be different, but 
on the K3, the mic plugs into the RR control box directly.

Jim


> On Dec 27, 2016, at 12:56 PM, George Kidder  wrote:
> 
> The XMIT button should parallel the foot switch.  I would bet your problem 
> was pressing the button for too long - which activates the tune function with 
> (as you observe) no audio.  Just "tap" the button and it should put you into 
> transmit with audio.
> 
> 73 - George - W3HBM
> 
> 
> On 12/26/2016 11:57 PM, Jim Larson wrote:
>> I figured out what the problem was.
>> 
>> I was using the XMIT button on the front of the K3S to go to transmit mode.  
>> The TX light turned on, but no audio was passed.  I then plugged in a foot 
>> switch on the mic cable and the remote goes into transmit mode and passes 
>> audio.
>> 
>> It appears to have been user error on my part, thinking that the XMIT button 
>> would do the trick.
>> 
>> Thanks for the input from a couple of guys.
>> 
>> 73, Jim - KK7A
>> 
>> 
>>> On Dec 26, 2016, at 6:49 PM, Jim Larson  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Mitch.  Thanks for the response.
>>> 
>>> The Heil is plugged into the front AUX/MIC jack.  The headset first goes 
>>> through the adapter changing the 1/8” plug to plug compatible with the 
>>> front of the K3S.  That plug then goes into a second adapter that converts 
>>> it into the RJ45 plug that connects to the AUX/MIC jack.
>>> 
>>> From what I can gather, then iC element is a condenser type that must be 
>>> powered.  I’m guessing the K3S supplies that voltage since it works 
>>> locally.  The RemoteRig manual says the following:
>>> 
>>> "Control-RRC only: JMP-1 is placed behind the TTL connector. With the strap 
>>> in place a DC voltage is feed to the microphone element. All ICOM 
>>> microphones should be DC-feed. Dynamic microphones like the ones used by 
>>> Kenwood should not be DC-feed. HEIL microphones should not be DC-feed 
>>> either."
>>> It kind of contradicts since it states that Hiel mics should not be DC fed, 
>>> but maybe that was for the older HC4/5 elements.
>>> 
>>> Anyway, all of the pieces were purchase from Elecraft, so I would assume 
>>> they would all work together.  :-)
>>> 
>>> Jim
>>> 
>>> 
 On Dec 26, 2016, at 6:35 PM, Mitch Wolfson, DJØQN / K7DX >>>  >> 
 wrote:
 
 Jim,
 
 Is the Heil plugged into the rear, or the front? If in the rea, then you 
 must first unplug the RRC to prevent a remote connect, then switch the 
 audio to the rear jack. If you leave the RRC's connected, you will only 
 change the remote K3 and not the control K3.
 
 73,
 Mitch DJ0QN / K7DX
 
 Mitch Wolfson DJØQN / K7DX
 10285 Boca Cir, Naples, FL 34109
 Skype: mitchwo
 USA: Home:+1-239-221-9600 - Mobile:+1-424-288-9171
 Germany: Home:+49 89 32152700 - Mobile:+49 172 8374436
 
 On 26.12.2016 20:27, Jim Larson wrote:
> I have a K3S connected to a remote K3 using the RemoteRig boxes.  With 
> the MH2 hand mic everything works great, but with my new Heil ProSet with 
> the iC element (purchased from Elecraft), I do not get any transmit audio 
> at all.  Running the ProSet into the local K3S (no RemoteRig), I am 
> getting audio out, so I know the headset is fine.
> 
> Is there a configuration change that needs to be made on the RemoteRig to 
> work with this ProSet iC element?
> 
> Thanks, Jim - KK7A
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Wes Stewart]

You might be interested in this: http://k6mhe.com/n7ws/Ladder_Line.pdf

On 12/27/2016 1:22 PM, Paul C wrote:

Here's another naive idea of mine:  I'm planning to use ladder line too.  Now 
I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop, when I realize coax will be my only 
practical choice.

Paul KG5KXG



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[Elecraft] Small QRP antenna

[kl7cw]

For about 50 years my usual portable antenna was a linked dipole, coax fed, and 
usually rigged as an inverted V for 40, 30, and 20 meters.  Performance was 
usually very good especially if the apex was at least something like 25 feet.  
However, this was heavy, took too much time to set up, and often there was not 
enough room in a park or campground.  Often the set up was just not worth the 
trouble after a long day of backpacking, etc.  However about 12 years ago when 
I got my KX1 with internal tuner, I found out I could make many good QSO’s on 
40, 30 and 20 meters with a simple 26 ft. wire in a tree, bush, vertical, 
sloped, or whatever and a 17 ft. wire or two laying on the ground. Many more 
QSO’s since set up was so easy, however not nearly as good as the inverted V.  
Now when I travel I usually just take a 26 ft piece of wire, two 17 ft 
counterpoise wires, and about an 8 ft. long wire with a big clip on the end.  
Sometimes counterpoise wires are not convenient to lay out, so I just clip onto 
a metal picnic table frame, chain link fence, or whatever for a ground 
(counterpoise) and it seems to be acceptable.  At other times I extend my 26 ft 
wire or counterpoise with the 8 ft wire for a better tune or performance on 40 
meters, especially if the counterpoise wires are elevated even slightly.  If 
space and supports are limited, I have thrown one 17 ft wire up over short 
trees or bushes of only perhaps 10 ft in height, and this inverted u antenna 
has even worked some DX on 20 meters (the other 17 ft wire is a counterpoise).  
I usually I like two counterpoise wires since models show a slight null if only 
one counterpoise wire is used.  
There are better portable antennas than the 26 ft wire, however it seems to be 
a winner when you consider weight, ease of set up, cost, and performance.  This 
is usually the only antenna I carry when I go to Europe or the UK where 
millions of folks live within a few hundred miles.  However when I operate 
portable from Alaska or other very remote locations, or especially in a 
contest, then sometimes better antennas are worth the effort and weight even 
for this old backpacker.  Do investigate end fed half wave antennas…many 
portable QRP operators go this route.  Your rig runs much more power than my 
kx1 and has a better antenna tuner, so you should have even more success than I 
have had with my 2 watts.  
  Cheers,   Rick   KL7CW

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Paul C]

Thanks for the ideas, Jim.  The tutorial I really want to see (or maybe make 
someday) is one about the KX1 operations for a complete QRP novice.  Such a 
video would take the ham step by step demonstrating all the features and 
explain why xyz is important.  I write software, and these kind of tutorials 
are tremendously helpful.  It's a great way to encourage others to adopt your 
product.

It's too bad I won't be able to take my little rig with me on my backpacking 
trip, but there should be a next time.  Thanks for all your good ideas.  This 
is a great hobby.

73,
Paul KG5KXG

-Original Message-
From: "Jim Brown" 
Sent: ‎12/‎27/‎2016 7:13 PM
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

On Tue,12/27/2016 12:22 PM, Paul C wrote:
> It seems tuff to get going in QRP.

Hi Paul,

The only thing "special" about antennas for QRP operation is that 
BECAUSE you're QRP, you want the most efficient antennas that you can. 
And the simple answer to that is to study the fundamentals in the ARRL 
Handbook and the ARRL Antenna Book.

And if you plan to operate portable, you want the most efficient 
antennas that are easy to carry, and to rig when you get to your 
operating QTH.

There are some tutorials on my website about antennas. They are written 
for antennas in general, not just portable antennas.

The best portable antennas are mostly nothing more than wire. The things 
you want to BUY are the wire and things that help you rig them. Look for 
lightweight, telescoping poles that you can tape a wire to, and ways to 
rig it more or less upright. Jackite poles are nice for this use.

Carry more wire to string out as radials. When you can, keep the radials 
off the ground a few feet -- for example, string them through scrub 
trees and brush. Build dipoles for situations when you can rig two ends 
in trees. Find a lightweight method to toss weights tied to fishing line 
into trees, tie light weight antenna rope to the line, pull it into the 
tree(s), rig the antenna wire to that rope. I used to see a product 
called a "wrist rocket" that is essentially a fishing reel attached to a 
short rod for launching into a tree. If you're going to use fishing 
weights, paint them a bright color so you can find them.

One of my buddies, N6RNO, is awfully good at simply tying a fishing 
weight to a fishing line and using his arm as a sort of catapault to 
launch wires into trees. He regularly gets our dipoles for CQP 
(California QSO Party) county expeditions up 40 ft into trees. When I 
first moved to CA 10 years ago, AE6RF did that using a half empty 16 oz 
water jug.

Tossing a wire into a tree is also a great way to rig a vertical.

Whatever you do, don't waste a single penny on any commercial antenna 
for portable use. Those popular (and expensive) poles antennas with 
loading coils are poor antennas -- loading coils are the reason.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 power socket

[Don Wilhelm]

Mark,

I remember those house building times well.  We started in 2001 and 
started building - many things by our own hands and sweat.  finally in 
2004 we were able to move into our own house.  Radio stuff had to be put 
aside for that period, but now that things are settled, radio is at the 
forefront of my retirement years.


Happy New Year to you and yours.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2016 8:13 PM, Mark Hogan wrote:


Thanks Don

Mines defiantly not glued to the board.  I think I’ll call in the morning and 
send it in for the fix, then like I said update as needed but for sure the 2m 
board while its there.  I need to read up, We have been building the new house 
and had no radio since last Dec 6.  I haven’t even read anything in a while.  
Just clearing land, building and such

Later and Happy New Year

Mark Hogan N5OBC


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Customer Service

[Bill Frantz]

I got one of those notices a couple of years ago giving me a 
delivery date for my shipment from Elecraft. Since I hadn't 
ordered anything, it wasn't near my birthday or December, I 
called Elecraft. They were able to pull the misdirected package 
off the loading dock saving both of us some work. The next day I 
got a canceled notice from UPS.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 12/25/16 at 9:40 AM, cr...@powersmith.net (Craig Smith) wrote:

I understand your reaction, but don’t think this one is due 
to anything at Elecraft.If you have a “My UPS” type of 
account with UPS, then you will receive that kind of email from 
UPS automatically no matter who initiates the shipment.


I’ve also been surprised and mystified on occasion when I get 
that notice when I know I haven’t ordered anything lately.

---
Bill Frantz| Ham radio contesting is a| Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  | contact sport.   | 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |  - Ken Widelitz K6LA / VY2TT | Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 power socket

[Mark Hogan]

Thanks Don

Mines defiantly not glued to the board.  I think I’ll call in the morning and 
send it in for the fix, then like I said update as needed but for sure the 2m 
board while its there.  I need to read up, We have been building the new house 
and had no radio since last Dec 6.  I haven’t even read anything in a while.  
Just clearing land, building and such

Later and Happy New Year

Mark Hogan N5OBC

> On Dec 27, 2016, at 6:04 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> A 90 degree plug may not resolve the problem.  The early KX3s did not have 
> the power plug glued to the PC board and could break the connections between 
> the power plug and the board.  If you can wiggle the power cord and cause the 
> KX3 to power off, then you have the problem.
> 
> With a new power jack from Elecraft, I was successful in removing the power 
> jack from my KX3 and soldering in a new jack (after applying a small amount 
> of epoxy glue beneath the jack).
> 
> At first it looked like the PC pads had broken free of the board, and in fact 
> one did, but a bit of wire repaired that connection easily.
> 
> I have the first KX3 shipped off the production line, so any changes that 
> were applied to the KX3 are applicable to mine.  Elecraft has updated my KX3 
> to current level a few months ago but the power connector gluing and repair 
> was done long prior to sending it to Elecraft.
> 
> So if you have an older KX3 where the power jack is not glued to the PC 
> board, you may have that problem.  Sorry, but I do not have the serial number 
> when the glue was first used.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 12/27/2016 6:40 PM, Mark Hogan wrote:
>> Mikes 90 degree plug
>> 
>>> On Dec 27, 2016, at 4:46 PM, Frank Krozel  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Everyone having issues with the power plug…. Does your plug that sticks 
>>> into the radio have a right angle on it or is it a straight affair?
>>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Jim Brown]

On Tue,12/27/2016 12:22 PM, Paul C wrote:

It seems tuff to get going in QRP.


Hi Paul,

The only thing "special" about antennas for QRP operation is that 
BECAUSE you're QRP, you want the most efficient antennas that you can. 
And the simple answer to that is to study the fundamentals in the ARRL 
Handbook and the ARRL Antenna Book.


And if you plan to operate portable, you want the most efficient 
antennas that are easy to carry, and to rig when you get to your 
operating QTH.


There are some tutorials on my website about antennas. They are written 
for antennas in general, not just portable antennas.


The best portable antennas are mostly nothing more than wire. The things 
you want to BUY are the wire and things that help you rig them. Look for 
lightweight, telescoping poles that you can tape a wire to, and ways to 
rig it more or less upright. Jackite poles are nice for this use.


Carry more wire to string out as radials. When you can, keep the radials 
off the ground a few feet -- for example, string them through scrub 
trees and brush. Build dipoles for situations when you can rig two ends 
in trees. Find a lightweight method to toss weights tied to fishing line 
into trees, tie light weight antenna rope to the line, pull it into the 
tree(s), rig the antenna wire to that rope. I used to see a product 
called a "wrist rocket" that is essentially a fishing reel attached to a 
short rod for launching into a tree. If you're going to use fishing 
weights, paint them a bright color so you can find them.


One of my buddies, N6RNO, is awfully good at simply tying a fishing 
weight to a fishing line and using his arm as a sort of catapault to 
launch wires into trees. He regularly gets our dipoles for CQP 
(California QSO Party) county expeditions up 40 ft into trees. When I 
first moved to CA 10 years ago, AE6RF did that using a half empty 16 oz 
water jug.


Tossing a wire into a tree is also a great way to rig a vertical.

Whatever you do, don't waste a single penny on any commercial antenna 
for portable use. Those popular (and expensive) poles antennas with 
loading coils are poor antennas -- loading coils are the reason.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Merv Schweigert via Elecraft]

They make similar resistors up to 800 watt or more,  see them on ebay
all the time,  they are even made in 25 ohm or 100 ohm so you can
series or parallel them to what you need,  easy to make a dummy load that
will handle many KW with just a couple.  Large heat sink needed.

Makes me curious about designing with these TO-220 resistors in the 1000
Ohm size of appropriate power rating...  Parallel 20 of them like folks
do on the axials that they put in the can type dummy loads with oil.

Options:

1) 20 in parallel on a finned copper or bare aluminum sink of sufficient
size and then entire assembly in a oil wetted container.
2) Same, but only the finned side of the finned/pinned heat exchanger in
a coolant bath.

I'd like to have a rugged, high power, key down load built from easily
obtainable and replaceable parts.

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 12/27/2016 5:52 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:

One thing I might also add in.  I use the Film TO-220 style non-inductive 
resistors with a heat sink in the 200 ohm 1% configuration to test 4:1 baluns 
at 100 watt level to confirm non saturation on the small QRP baluns I make.
Mel, K6KBE



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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Don Wilhelm]

Clay,

Unless things have changed since I tested the Caddock Thick Film Power 
resistors of other than 50 ohms, I would not parallel 20 1000 ohm 
resistors to produce a 50 ohm load.  Values other than 50 ohms are not 
guaranteed to be non-reactive.


I would put 4 strings of 4 50 ohm resistors in series in parallel. Each 
resistor mounted with leads as short as possible.


I don't know about the dissipation characteristics of those resistors 
mounted in oil, and I suspect it depends on the heatsinking ability of 
the resistor mountings when immersed in the oil.
20 100 watt resistors *should* produce a 2000 watt load, but as I 
indicated, it depends on the dissipation of the individual resistors and 
how fast they can transfer their heat to the oil.  It may be necessary 
to attach the resistors to a heat sink and immerse those heat sink 
assemblies into the oil.


For all those who are looking for a suitable dummy load for high power, 
you usually do not have to be concerned about measurement quality 
impedance.  Something adequate to provide a suitable load for the 
amplifier may be all that is needed.  Having a precision 50 ohm load is 
a requirement for measurement, but not for routine amplifier tuning and 
general operating procedures.


73,
Don W3FPR

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2016 7:16 PM, Clay Autery wrote:

Makes me curious about designing with these TO-220 resistors in the 1000
Ohm size of appropriate power rating...  Parallel 20 of them like folks
do on the axials that they put in the can type dummy loads with oil.

Options:

1) 20 in parallel on a finned copper or bare aluminum sink of sufficient
size and then entire assembly in a oil wetted container.
2) Same, but only the finned side of the finned/pinned heat exchanger in
a coolant bath.

I'd like to have a rugged, high power, key down load built from easily
obtainable and replaceable parts.

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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I have seen on ebay (I believe Henry Radio is the vendor) some pretty high 
wattage loads
(I believe at one time they sold a set of 4 200ohm ones to mount to a big heat 
sink.)

If I were going to run a tube amp again I'd be tempted to make up a high 
wattage dummy load for it.

 

  From: Clay Autery 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 7:16 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies
   
Makes me curious about designing with these TO-220 resistors in the 1000
Ohm size of appropriate power rating...  Parallel 20 of them like folks
do on the axials that they put in the can type dummy loads with oil.

Options:

1) 20 in parallel on a finned copper or bare aluminum sink of sufficient
size and then entire assembly in a oil wetted container.
2) Same, but only the finned side of the finned/pinned heat exchanger in
a coolant bath.

I'd like to have a rugged, high power, key down load built from easily
obtainable and replaceable parts.

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 12/27/2016 5:52 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:
> One thing I might also add in.  I use the Film TO-220 style non-inductive 
> resistors with a heat sink in the 200 ohm 1% configuration to test 4:1 baluns 
> at 100 watt level to confirm non saturation on the small QRP baluns I make.
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] SVGA monitor for P3

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I run 3 monitors on my computer and instead of dedicating a monitor to the P3's 
SVGA card I useda VGA Capture card that way I can put it in a window on my 
desktop and resize or move it around.




  From: Carl Yaffey 
 To: Mel Farrer via Elecraft  
 Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 7:03 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] SVGA monitor for P3
   
Looking for recommendations for an SVGA monitor to work with the P3.

Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com


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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 Display Help

[Brian Waterworth]

Press and hold the menu button.  The word "labels" below is what you are
actually toggling with the long press of the menu button.  You should then
see the waterfall area expand to the bottom of the screen.

Regards
Brian
VE3IBW

On Dec 27, 2016 5:46 PM, "James Bennett"  wrote:

> Once again, the brain has abandoned me. On my PX3, the white outlined box
> that shows signals on the top part and waterfall on the bottom is only
> occupying about 2/3 of the glass screen. What I mean is that the bottom of
> the white outline does not come all the way down to the bottom of the glass
> area. The top area containing signals and waterfall occupy just under 1-1/2
> inches, and the rest (underneath, about 3/4 inch) is black. What have I
> done that has caused me to loose 1/3 of my PX3 display? If I adjust the
> “Waterfall” value in the menu, it varies the amount of the display the
> waterfall takes up, but it does not affect that bottom line.
>
> I’ve looked through the Menu entries several times but don’t see anything
> that jumps out and says “adjust display height” or something like that.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!
>
> Tnx, Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] PX3 Display Help

[Cady, Fred]

Hi Jim,

You might have Text Mode turned on.  I don't have my KE7X book handy to tell 
you which menu item it is but its in there somewhere.

Cheers,

Fred KE7X


From: Elecraft  on behalf of James Bennett 

Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 3:43 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] PX3 Display Help

Once again, the brain has abandoned me. On my PX3, the white outlined box that 
shows signals on the top part and waterfall on the bottom is only occupying 
about 2/3 of the glass screen. What I mean is that the bottom of the white 
outline does not come all the way down to the bottom of the glass area. The top 
area containing signals and waterfall occupy just under 1-1/2 inches, and the 
rest (underneath, about 3/4 inch) is black. What have I done that has caused me 
to loose 1/3 of my PX3 display? If I adjust the "Waterfall" value in the menu, 
it varies the amount of the display the waterfall takes up, but it does not 
affect that bottom line.

I've looked through the Menu entries several times but don't see anything that 
jumps out and says "adjust display height" or something like that.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Tnx, Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Clay Autery]

Makes me curious about designing with these TO-220 resistors in the 1000
Ohm size of appropriate power rating...  Parallel 20 of them like folks
do on the axials that they put in the can type dummy loads with oil.

Options:

1) 20 in parallel on a finned copper or bare aluminum sink of sufficient
size and then entire assembly in a oil wetted container.
2) Same, but only the finned side of the finned/pinned heat exchanger in
a coolant bath.

I'd like to have a rugged, high power, key down load built from easily
obtainable and replaceable parts.

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 12/27/2016 5:52 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:
> One thing I might also add in.  I use the Film TO-220 style non-inductive 
> resistors with a heat sink in the 200 ohm 1% configuration to test 4:1 baluns 
> at 100 watt level to confirm non saturation on the small QRP baluns I make.
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 power socket

[Don Wilhelm]

A 90 degree plug may not resolve the problem.  The early KX3s did not 
have the power plug glued to the PC board and could break the 
connections between the power plug and the board.  If you can wiggle the 
power cord and cause the KX3 to power off, then you have the problem.


With a new power jack from Elecraft, I was successful in removing the 
power jack from my KX3 and soldering in a new jack (after applying a 
small amount of epoxy glue beneath the jack).


At first it looked like the PC pads had broken free of the board, and in 
fact one did, but a bit of wire repaired that connection easily.


I have the first KX3 shipped off the production line, so any changes 
that were applied to the KX3 are applicable to mine.  Elecraft has 
updated my KX3 to current level a few months ago but the power connector 
gluing and repair was done long prior to sending it to Elecraft.


So if you have an older KX3 where the power jack is not glued to the PC 
board, you may have that problem.  Sorry, but I do not have the serial 
number when the glue was first used.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2016 6:40 PM, Mark Hogan wrote:

Mikes 90 degree plug


On Dec 27, 2016, at 4:46 PM, Frank Krozel  
wrote:

Everyone having issues with the power plug…. Does your plug that sticks into 
the radio have a right angle on it or is it a straight affair?


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[Elecraft] SVGA monitor for P3

[Carl Yaffey]

Looking for recommendations for an SVGA monitor to work with the P3.

Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com


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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

One thing I might also add in.  I use the Film TO-220 style non-inductive 
resistors with a heat sink in the 200 ohm 1% configuration to test 4:1 baluns 
at 100 watt level to confirm non saturation on the small QRP baluns I make.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
 To: 'Paul C' ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 3:23 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies
   
For parts, digikey.com and mouser.com are good friends. No minimum order, great 
prices and huge selection. 

You've gotten several suggestions for a good dummy load. And I concur with the 
others, those wire-wound resistors might be 50 ohms but their reactance may 
almost anything and dependent upon frequency. One of the original "Elecrafter 
Field Testers" and "F.O.W." - friend of Wayne (Burdick) - was Tom Hammond, 
N0SS, no sadly an S.K. But his web site has been maintained and it contains a 
great low-cost dummy load design:

http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/dl_30w_hf-uhf.pdf

You might enjoy looking around the web site for more KX1 info and QRP info in 
general:

http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/

Coaxial cable is every much as low loss as open wire line when the SWR is not 
too high. The difference in applying them is that the inherently 
higher-impedance of ladder line makes it much easier to keep the SWR on the 
line low enough to avoid excessive loss. For example, a hunk of wire between 50 
and 100 feet long strung up in the air and fed at its center will show an 
impedance of about 4,000 ohms at the frequency at which it is 1/2 wavelength 
long and perhaps as low as 40 ohms on 80 or 160 meters. With open wire line at 
about 400 ohms impedance, you will find an SWR of up to 10:1 on the feed line, 
generally much less. With 50 ohm coax, the SWR will range as high as 80:1 or 
more.

Have fun. At my shack, simple and cheap is great fun! 

73, Ron AC7AC 



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Paul C
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 12:23 PM
To: Walter Underwood; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

Ok, I won't be using these resistors after all.  Thanks for setting me 
straight. 

It seems tuff to get going in QRP.  I thought I'd roll my own when possible.  I 
am trying to keep things simple and economical, the QRP spirit.

Here's another naive idea of mine:  I'm planning to use ladder line too.  Now 
I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop, when I realize coax will be my only 
practical choice.

Paul KG5KXG

-Original Message-
From: "Walter Underwood" 
Sent: ‎12/‎27/‎2016 1:45 PM
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

Ah, yes, bricks. Like these?

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-100-ohm-10w-10-wirewound-resistor-2-pack#
 


wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Dec 27, 2016, at 11:42 AM, Vic Rosenthal  wrote:
> 
> They are undoubtedly wire-wound resistors and will have too much inductance 
> to work well as a dummy load. The resistance is fine. If you have an SWR 
> meter, check it with that. SWR below about 1.5 would mean it is usable. It 
> might be OK on 160 or 80 meters but not on higher bands.
> 
> Vic 4X6GP
> 
>> On 27 Dec 2016, at 16:43, Paul C  wrote:
>> 
>> I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
>> parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
>> measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
>> should I reduce it to 50?
>> 
>> Paul KG5KXG
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 power socket

[Mark Hogan]

Mikes 90 degree plug

> On Dec 27, 2016, at 4:46 PM, Frank Krozel  
> wrote:
> 
> Everyone having issues with the power plug…. Does your plug that sticks into 
> the radio have a right angle on it or is it a straight affair?
> 
> 
> 
> Sincerely,  Frank Krozel t: 1-630-924-1600 fr...@electronicinstrument.com 
>   
> BSEE,   AASEET,   FCC Lic.# PG-18-19178,   KG9H
> Electronic Instrument Associates - Central, Inc. ...since 1971
> w: www.electronicinstrument.com 
> d/l our new linecard at http://www.electronicinstrument.com/lc.pdf 
>   
> 
>> On Dec 27, 2016, at 10:55 AM, Mark Hogan > > wrote:
>> 
>> No such luck.  Looks like two of the pads lifted off the board.  The little 
>> tyke has to go to the mothership for repairs :( and they’re closed today so 
>> there will be another delay till tomorrow to send it in.
>> 
>> 
>> I suppose I’ll take advantage of that to have the two meter board added and 
>> see if theres other things that should or can be updated while its there for 
>> repairs.
>> 
>> I’ll have to find the box I saw that SGC 2020 in and pull it into service.  
>> That or hang with my single band rigs.
>> 
>> Mark Hogan N5OBC
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Dec 27, 2016, at 10:33 AM, Mark Hogan >> > wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks folks,
>>> 
>>> Well I got a 125’ end fed hung this morning, actually added wire to my old 
>>> 53’ and my home brew EARCHI balun from the last house. The KX3 is tuning it 
>>> well 40 and below, struggled on 80/160 but made 2.4 and 2.6 on each.  I’ll 
>>> probably mess with that more later.  Now for chores around here and tonight 
>>> I’ll look inside to see what the damage is and see can I get it with my 
>>> WTCPT and the tiny tip.  I should be up on the SKCC frees tonight or in a 
>>> day or so.  Need to find myself before K3Y starts :)
>>> 
>>> Mark Hogan N5OBC
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On Dec 26, 2016, at 7:28 PM, Matt Zilmer >>> > wrote:
 
 Mark,
 
 It's happened before, usually because the power cable was pulled out with 
 too much side (off-axis) force.  I don't know of any other cause.
 
 73,
 
 matt W6NIA
 
 
 On 12/26/2016 4:45 PM, Mark Hogan wrote:
> I have SN 31, I recently finished our house and setup the shack.  Radios
> been boxed about a year since we moved.  It was a desk rig at the last
> house with a occasional trip to the back yard.
> When I plug it in to 12v I get nothing.  I unplugged and plugged it in
> several times and got voltage to charge the batts.  Looking in the hole it
> appears the sockets got one leg loose on the board. Was that a issue or am
> I one of the special kids? :)
> 
> Mark Hogan N5OBC
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> Message delivered to mzil...@roadrunner.com 
> 
 
 -- 
 Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
 www.elecraft.com 
 Office: 831-763-4211 x125
 Mobile: 909-730-6552
 [Shiraz]
 
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>>> 
>> 
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Please help suppo

Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

For parts, digikey.com and mouser.com are good friends. No minimum order, great 
prices and huge selection. 

You've gotten several suggestions for a good dummy load. And I concur with the 
others, those wire-wound resistors might be 50 ohms but their reactance may 
almost anything and dependent upon frequency. One of the original "Elecrafter 
Field Testers" and "F.O.W." - friend of Wayne (Burdick) - was Tom Hammond, 
N0SS, no sadly an S.K. But his web site has been maintained and it contains a 
great low-cost dummy load design:

http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/dl_30w_hf-uhf.pdf

You might enjoy looking around the web site for more KX1 info and QRP info in 
general:

http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/

Coaxial cable is every much as low loss as open wire line when the SWR is not 
too high. The difference in applying them is that the inherently 
higher-impedance of ladder line makes it much easier to keep the SWR on the 
line low enough to avoid excessive loss. For example, a hunk of wire between 50 
and 100 feet long strung up in the air and fed at its center will show an 
impedance of about 4,000 ohms at the frequency at which it is 1/2 wavelength 
long and perhaps as low as 40 ohms on 80 or 160 meters. With open wire line at 
about 400 ohms impedance, you will find an SWR of up to 10:1 on the feed line, 
generally much less. With 50 ohm coax, the SWR will range as high as 80:1 or 
more.

Have fun. At my shack, simple and cheap is great fun! 

73, Ron AC7AC 



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Paul C
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 12:23 PM
To: Walter Underwood; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

Ok, I won't be using these resistors after all.  Thanks for setting me 
straight. 

It seems tuff to get going in QRP.  I thought I'd roll my own when possible.  I 
am trying to keep things simple and economical, the QRP spirit.

Here's another naive idea of mine:  I'm planning to use ladder line too.  Now 
I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop, when I realize coax will be my only 
practical choice.

Paul KG5KXG

-Original Message-
From: "Walter Underwood" 
Sent: ‎12/‎27/‎2016 1:45 PM
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

Ah, yes, bricks. Like these?

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-100-ohm-10w-10-wirewound-resistor-2-pack#
 


wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Dec 27, 2016, at 11:42 AM, Vic Rosenthal  wrote:
> 
> They are undoubtedly wire-wound resistors and will have too much inductance 
> to work well as a dummy load. The resistance is fine. If you have an SWR 
> meter, check it with that. SWR below about 1.5 would mean it is usable. It 
> might be OK on 160 or 80 meters but not on higher bands.
> 
> Vic 4X6GP
> 
>> On 27 Dec 2016, at 16:43, Paul C  wrote:
>> 
>> I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
>> parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
>> measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
>> should I reduce it to 50?
>> 
>> Paul KG5KXG
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Don Wilhelm]

Wes,

What you say is true, and how much it matters in practice will vary 
depending on just how much inductance is present  in those wirewound 
resistors. how much it matters depends of frequency.  The higher the 
frequency, the more it matters - and that is independent of power.


The load in question is for initial testing of a KX1 at 40 and 20 
meters.  If only an indication of some power output capability is 
required, then that load may be sufficient, but in this case, the owner 
wants to know if his KX1 is operating up to specifications, and a 
non-inductive dummy load is required for that purpose, in addition a 
means of accurately measuring the power output at a 3 to 4 watt level is 
also an essential tool.  An RF probe applied across the dummy load may 
provide that indication at 4 watts or less (along with a little math), 
but if the power is much greater than that, it will zap the most 
commonly used diode in the RF Probe (a 1N34).


So you are correct, if simply providing a load to a transmitter, the 
wirewound resistors may be OK, but if they are being used as a 
measurement tool, the results will be incorrect if only the DC 
resistance is considered.  The real result of any measurements done with 
reactive components can only be had by also considering the complex 
impedance of the load.  Measurements with an RF Probe and a DVM will not 
reveal that complex impedance that must be entered into the equation.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2016 5:31 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:

Paul,

You've got a lot of hand wringing comments about how those are probably
wire wound resistors.  They probably are but in practice it might not
matter.  It all depends on what exactly you are trying to accomplish.

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Re: [Elecraft] No"tun" for my KX1

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Sorry about that Paul. Yes, there was a number change since the last version
of the manual was printed. The correct number is 831-763-4211.

The number is in the banner at the top of the web page at www.elecraft.com

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Paul C
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 6:38 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] No"tun" for my KX1

I was wondering if Elecraft has a real tech support phone number or official
support email address aside from this user forum.  I ask because I am a
novice to this rig and QRP in general, and I have several short critical
questions which are much too tedious for email.

Construction went smoothly but now I'm at the testing point and I'm a little
uncertain on what to expect.  The manual is a little vague.  I guess I need
a genuine tutorial.  

I called the number lists in the manual and it was disconnected.

Thank you,

Paul KG5KXG
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[Elecraft] PX3 Display Help

[James Bennett]

Once again, the brain has abandoned me. On my PX3, the white outlined box that 
shows signals on the top part and waterfall on the bottom is only occupying 
about 2/3 of the glass screen. What I mean is that the bottom of the white 
outline does not come all the way down to the bottom of the glass area. The top 
area containing signals and waterfall occupy just under 1-1/2 inches, and the 
rest (underneath, about 3/4 inch) is black. What have I done that has caused me 
to loose 1/3 of my PX3 display? If I adjust the “Waterfall” value in the menu, 
it varies the amount of the display the waterfall takes up, but it does not 
affect that bottom line.

I’ve looked through the Menu entries several times but don’t see anything that 
jumps out and says “adjust display height” or something like that.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Tnx, Jim / W6JHB
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Alan Bloom]

I once made a dummy load with a 50W, 50-ohm wire-wound resistor.  The 
inductance was tuned out with a variable capacitor in series.  As I 
recall it worked reasonably well on 160 and 80 meters, but the bandwidth 
was too narrow to be useful on the high bands.


Alan N1AL


On 12/27/2016 02:31 PM, Wes Stewart wrote:

Paul,

You've got a lot of hand wringing comments about how those are probably
wire wound resistors.  They probably are but in practice it might not
matter.  It all depends on what exactly you are trying to accomplish.
You don't say what your usage is or how much power your TX is putting out.

Wes  N7WS

 On 12/27/2016 7:43 AM, Paul C wrote:

I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired
in parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little
bricks.  I measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is
close enough or should I reduce it to 50?

Paul KG5KXG


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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Wes Stewart]

Paul,

You've got a lot of hand wringing comments about how those are probably wire 
wound resistors.  They probably are but in practice it might not matter.  It all 
depends on what exactly you are trying to accomplish.   You don't say what your 
usage is or how much power your TX is putting out.


Wes  N7WS

 On 12/27/2016 7:43 AM, Paul C wrote:

I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
should I reduce it to 50?

Paul KG5KXG


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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Don Wilhelm]

I use those Caddock Thick Film Power resistors to make my own dummy 
loads.  They make flat dummy loads up to at least 200MHz with normal 
lead dress, and with care they can be flat up to 500MHz.
I have found is that the 50 ohm resistors are non-reactive, but other 
values may be capacitive.


They MUST be used on a heatsink adequate for their power rating or else 
their power rating is quite low.  They will zap in an instant if their 
power rating (device and the heatsink) are exceeded, so put them on a 
heatsink that is sufficient for the power rating.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2016 3:21 PM, John Parker wrote:

The good non-inductive resistors are made by Caddock Electronics. Available 
from some of the catalog dealers.
John WB4UHCK3 #2165


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[Elecraft] W8FGU case for Elecraft DL

[Rose]

See W8FGU near bottom of Elecraft website front page for a nice case for
the Elecraft mini-module DL.

73

Ken - K0PP

On Dec 27, 2016 14:24, "Bill Johnson"  wrote:

Easiest solution, buy the Elecraft DL1 20 watt dummy load kit.  The guess
work is removed.  And it is only $25.95 for the kit.  Fun to build simple
to use.  Even has an RF detector built on.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Walter Underwood
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 12:42 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

If you want a dummy load kit for about as much as you would pay for the
box, I highly recommend the Oak Hills Research RFL-100 kit for $40.

http://www.ohr.com/rfl100.htm 

I used their “BNC in a UHF connector hole” kit to make my dummy load more
convenient in my all-BNC shack.

http://www.ohr.com/parts.htm 

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Dec 27, 2016, at 9:41 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
>
> Yes, and you should test the dummy load at the highest frequency you will
be using it.  Even leaded non-inductive resistors will have a reactive
component at higher frequencies.
> Frankly, I usually test them above the max frequency I intend to use it
to not have any concern about error.
>
> Mel,  K6KBE
>
>
>  From: Ryan Noguchi via Elecraft 
> To: Paul C ; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"
> 
> Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 8:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies
>
>> I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in
parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I
measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or
should I reduce it to 50?
>
>
>
>> Paul KG5KXG
>
>
> If your impedance is really 51 ohms, that's an SWR of 1.02. If your
antenna had an SWR of 1.02, would you trim it to get to 1.00, fire up your
tuner, or just start operating?
>
> However, some of those resistors that look like bricks are really coils
(inductors) inside, which produce a higher impedance than the DC
resistance. Under RF excitation, that dummy load may be well above 51 ohms
impedance.
>
> 73, Ryan AI6DO
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Don Wilhelm]

Paul,

For the ladderline vs. coax question, you might want to take a look at 
the article I wrote for QRP Quarterly some years back.  If so, go to my 
website www.w3fpr.com and look at the Antenna, Transmission Lines and 
Tuners article.  You can also find that article at 
http://www.dxzone.com/dx19232/antennas-and-transmission-lines-myths.html 
- I am pleased that DXzone has chosen to preserve it.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2016 3:22 PM, Paul C wrote:

Ok, I won't be using these resistors after all.  Thanks for setting me straight.

It seems tuff to get going in QRP.  I thought I'd roll my own when possible.  I 
am trying to keep things simple and economical, the QRP spirit.

Here's another naive idea of mine:  I'm planning to use ladder line too.  Now 
I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop, when I realize coax will be my only 
practical choice.

Paul KG5KXG

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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Bill Johnson]

Easiest solution, buy the Elecraft DL1 20 watt dummy load kit.  The guess work 
is removed.  And it is only $25.95 for the kit.  Fun to build simple to use.  
Even has an RF detector built on.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Walter 
Underwood
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 12:42 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

If you want a dummy load kit for about as much as you would pay for the box, I 
highly recommend the Oak Hills Research RFL-100 kit for $40.

http://www.ohr.com/rfl100.htm 

I used their “BNC in a UHF connector hole” kit to make my dummy load more 
convenient in my all-BNC shack.

http://www.ohr.com/parts.htm 

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Dec 27, 2016, at 9:41 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yes, and you should test the dummy load at the highest frequency you will be 
> using it.  Even leaded non-inductive resistors will have a reactive component 
> at higher frequencies.
> Frankly, I usually test them above the max frequency I intend to use it to 
> not have any concern about error.
> 
> Mel,  K6KBE
> 
> 
>  From: Ryan Noguchi via Elecraft 
> To: Paul C ; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
> 
> Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 8:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies
> 
>> I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
>> parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
>> measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
>> should I reduce it to 50?
> 
> 
> 
>> Paul KG5KXG
> 
> 
> If your impedance is really 51 ohms, that's an SWR of 1.02. If your antenna 
> had an SWR of 1.02, would you trim it to get to 1.00, fire up your tuner, or 
> just start operating?
> 
> However, some of those resistors that look like bricks are really coils 
> (inductors) inside, which produce a higher impedance than the DC resistance. 
> Under RF excitation, that dummy load may be well above 51 ohms impedance. 
> 
> 73, Ryan AI6DO
> __
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> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP]

I'm using ladder line to feed a 20m dipole on all bands from 40-10m 
(actually, it even works on 6m). Using a dipole shorter than 1/2 
wavelength can be tricky, but it should work pretty well on the design 
frequency and higher. You will need to use a balanced antenna tuner, or 
an unbalanced tuner plus a balun.


There's an article about how I did this in this newsletter:


73,
Vic, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 27 Dec 2016 22:22, Paul C wrote:

Ok, I won't be using these resistors after all.  Thanks for setting
me straight.

It seems tuff to get going in QRP.  I thought I'd roll my own when
possible.  I am trying to keep things simple and economical, the QRP
spirit.

Here's another naive idea of mine:  I'm planning to use ladder line
too.  Now I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop, when I realize coax
will be my only practical choice.

Paul KG5KXG

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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Walter Underwood]

For a 10W load, it is hard to beat the OHR kit. It is just two resistors on the 
back of a connector, but you probably couldn’t buy the three components for 
$11.50. The Craddock resistors are almost $10 each in small lots.

"The CQC RFL-10 Dummy Load Kit consists of two 5 Watt 100 Ohm metal oxide 
resistors connected in parallel, giving you a nice non-inductive 50 Ohm DC 
resistance.  We've field tested these babies and they produce a remarkably flat 
1:1 SWR from 1.8 - 30 MHz. The main body of the RFL-10 is an S0-239 coaxial 
socket which allows you to create a nice in-line package. Two sturdy adapters 
are included, one that allows you to connect directly to an SO-239 coax 
connector, and another that allows you to connect to a BNC socket.  There are 
two solder connections, and that's it. 

When completed the RFL-10 will dissipate 10W  continuously, and up to 25W for 
brief periods."

http://www.ohr.com/rfl10.htm 

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Dec 27, 2016, at 12:21 PM, John Parker  wrote:
> 
> The good non-inductive resistors are made by Caddock Electronics. Available 
> from some of the catalog dealers.
> 
> John WB4UHC
> K3 #2165
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, December 27, 2016 2:46 PM, Walter Underwood 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Ah, yes, bricks. Like these?
> 
> https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-100-ohm-10w-10-wirewound-resistor-2-pack#
>   
>   
> >
> 
> wunder
> K6WRU
> Walter Underwood
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/  (my blog)
> 
> > On Dec 27, 2016, at 11:42 AM, Vic Rosenthal  > > wrote:
> > 
> > They are undoubtedly wire-wound resistors and will have too much inductance 
> > to work well as a dummy load. The resistance is fine. If you have an SWR 
> > meter, check it with that. SWR below about 1.5 would mean it is usable. It 
> > might be OK on 160 or 80 meters but not on higher bands.
> > 
> > Vic 4X6GP
> > 
> >> On 27 Dec 2016, at 16:43, Paul C  >> > wrote:
> >> 
> >> I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
> >> parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  
> >> I measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough 
> >> or should I reduce it to 50?
> >> 
> >> Paul KG5KXG
> >> __
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> >> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Kevin - K4VD]

​Well now I don't think anyone said the wirewounds wouldn't work just that
you'd need to check them out. Give it a shot and see if the SWR is as
expected. I've used cheap carbon comp resistors in the past​. Heck, a light
 bulb (incandescent) probably wouldn't do a bad job.

As for your other idea, using ladder line, it's about the best choice for
QRP I think as it generally is lower loss. I use 600 ohm ladder line but I
don't know if that's any better or worse electrically than 450 ohm window
line or even 300 ohm tv line.

Kev
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

Or these, they are good to VHF range.  
non inductive resistor Passive Components | Mouser
But if you want something that is good to microwave, then use 4 each 200 ohms 
1206 chip resistors around a panel mount female BNC connector.  Works slick.
Mel, K6KBE

  
|  
|  
|  
|   ||

  |

  |
|  
|   |  
non inductive resistor Passive Components | Mouser
 non inductive resistor Passive Components are available at Mouser Electronics. 
Mouser offers inventory, pricing,...  |   |

  |

  |

 



  From: Walter Underwood 
 To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 11:44 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies
  
Ah, yes, bricks. Like these?

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-100-ohm-10w-10-wirewound-resistor-2-pack#
 


wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Dec 27, 2016, at 11:42 AM, Vic Rosenthal  wrote:
> 
> They are undoubtedly wire-wound resistors and will have too much inductance 
> to work well as a dummy load. The resistance is fine. If you have an SWR 
> meter, check it with that. SWR below about 1.5 would mean it is usable. It 
> might be OK on 160 or 80 meters but not on higher bands.
> 
> Vic 4X6GP
> 
>> On 27 Dec 2016, at 16:43, Paul C  wrote:
>> 
>> I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
>> parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
>> measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
>> should I reduce it to 50?
>> 
>> Paul KG5KXG
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Paul C]

Ok, I won't be using these resistors after all.  Thanks for setting me 
straight. 

It seems tuff to get going in QRP.  I thought I'd roll my own when possible.  I 
am trying to keep things simple and economical, the QRP spirit.

Here's another naive idea of mine:  I'm planning to use ladder line too.  Now 
I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop, when I realize coax will be my only 
practical choice.

Paul KG5KXG

-Original Message-
From: "Walter Underwood" 
Sent: ‎12/‎27/‎2016 1:45 PM
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

Ah, yes, bricks. Like these?

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-100-ohm-10w-10-wirewound-resistor-2-pack#
 


wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Dec 27, 2016, at 11:42 AM, Vic Rosenthal  wrote:
> 
> They are undoubtedly wire-wound resistors and will have too much inductance 
> to work well as a dummy load. The resistance is fine. If you have an SWR 
> meter, check it with that. SWR below about 1.5 would mean it is usable. It 
> might be OK on 160 or 80 meters but not on higher bands.
> 
> Vic 4X6GP
> 
>> On 27 Dec 2016, at 16:43, Paul C  wrote:
>> 
>> I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
>> parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
>> measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
>> should I reduce it to 50?
>> 
>> Paul KG5KXG
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[John Parker]

The good non-inductive resistors are made by Caddock Electronics. Available 
from some of the catalog dealers.
John WB4UHCK3 #2165 

On Tuesday, December 27, 2016 2:46 PM, Walter Underwood 
 wrote:
 

 Ah, yes, bricks. Like these?

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-100-ohm-10w-10-wirewound-resistor-2-pack#
 


wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Dec 27, 2016, at 11:42 AM, Vic Rosenthal  wrote:
> 
> They are undoubtedly wire-wound resistors and will have too much inductance 
> to work well as a dummy load. The resistance is fine. If you have an SWR 
> meter, check it with that. SWR below about 1.5 would mean it is usable. It 
> might be OK on 160 or 80 meters but not on higher bands.
> 
> Vic 4X6GP
> 
>> On 27 Dec 2016, at 16:43, Paul C  wrote:
>> 
>> I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
>> parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
>> measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
>> should I reduce it to 50?
>> 
>> Paul KG5KXG
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] RemoteRig Microphone Question

[George Kidder]

The XMIT button should parallel the foot switch.  I would bet your 
problem was pressing the button for too long - which activates the tune 
function with (as you observe) no audio.  Just "tap" the button and it 
should put you into transmit with audio.


73 - George - W3HBM


On 12/26/2016 11:57 PM, Jim Larson wrote:

I figured out what the problem was.

I was using the XMIT button on the front of the K3S to go to transmit mode.  
The TX light turned on, but no audio was passed.  I then plugged in a foot 
switch on the mic cable and the remote goes into transmit mode and passes audio.

It appears to have been user error on my part, thinking that the XMIT button 
would do the trick.

Thanks for the input from a couple of guys.

73, Jim - KK7A



On Dec 26, 2016, at 6:49 PM, Jim Larson  wrote:

Hi Mitch.  Thanks for the response.

The Heil is plugged into the front AUX/MIC jack.  The headset first goes 
through the adapter changing the 1/8” plug to plug compatible with the front of 
the K3S.  That plug then goes into a second adapter that converts it into the 
RJ45 plug that connects to the AUX/MIC jack.

 From what I can gather, then iC element is a condenser type that must be 
powered.  I’m guessing the K3S supplies that voltage since it works locally.  
The RemoteRig manual says the following:

"Control-RRC only: JMP-1 is placed behind the TTL connector. With the strap in place 
a DC voltage is feed to the microphone element. All ICOM microphones should be DC-feed. 
Dynamic microphones like the ones used by Kenwood should not be DC-feed. HEIL microphones 
should not be DC-feed either."
It kind of contradicts since it states that Hiel mics should not be DC fed, but 
maybe that was for the older HC4/5 elements.

Anyway, all of the pieces were purchase from Elecraft, so I would assume they 
would all work together.  :-)

Jim



On Dec 26, 2016, at 6:35 PM, Mitch Wolfson, DJØQN / K7DX mailto:dj...@gmx.net>> wrote:

Jim,

Is the Heil plugged into the rear, or the front? If in the rea, then you must 
first unplug the RRC to prevent a remote connect, then switch the audio to the 
rear jack. If you leave the RRC's connected, you will only change the remote K3 
and not the control K3.

73,
Mitch DJ0QN / K7DX

Mitch Wolfson DJØQN / K7DX
10285 Boca Cir, Naples, FL 34109
Skype: mitchwo
USA: Home:+1-239-221-9600 - Mobile:+1-424-288-9171
Germany: Home:+49 89 32152700 - Mobile:+49 172 8374436

On 26.12.2016 20:27, Jim Larson wrote:

I have a K3S connected to a remote K3 using the RemoteRig boxes.  With the MH2 
hand mic everything works great, but with my new Heil ProSet with the iC 
element (purchased from Elecraft), I do not get any transmit audio at all.  
Running the ProSet into the local K3S (no RemoteRig), I am getting audio out, 
so I know the headset is fine.

Is there a configuration change that needs to be made on the RemoteRig to work 
with this ProSet iC element?

Thanks, Jim - KK7A


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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Walter Underwood]

Ah, yes, bricks. Like these?

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-100-ohm-10w-10-wirewound-resistor-2-pack#
 


wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Dec 27, 2016, at 11:42 AM, Vic Rosenthal  wrote:
> 
> They are undoubtedly wire-wound resistors and will have too much inductance 
> to work well as a dummy load. The resistance is fine. If you have an SWR 
> meter, check it with that. SWR below about 1.5 would mean it is usable. It 
> might be OK on 160 or 80 meters but not on higher bands.
> 
> Vic 4X6GP
> 
>> On 27 Dec 2016, at 16:43, Paul C  wrote:
>> 
>> I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
>> parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
>> measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
>> should I reduce it to 50?
>> 
>> Paul KG5KXG
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Vic Rosenthal]

They are undoubtedly wire-wound resistors and will have too much inductance to 
work well as a dummy load. The resistance is fine. If you have an SWR meter, 
check it with that. SWR below about 1.5 would mean it is usable. It might be OK 
on 160 or 80 meters but not on higher bands.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 27 Dec 2016, at 16:43, Paul C  wrote:
> 
> I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
> parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
> measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
> should I reduce it to 50?
> 
> Paul KG5KXG
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Re: [Elecraft] Small QRP antenna question

[Michael Babineau]

If you want to cover 80m through 10m with a single wire try something in the 
range of 84 to 86 feet. 
This length is not a multiple of a half wave on any of the ham bands so it will 
present a reasonable impedance 
that can be be matched with a tuner and not surprisingly this is the W3EDP 
length. 

If you don’t care about 80m then the suggested 26 to 29 foot wire will work 
great (I personally recommend 28 to 29 feet as I have found that 
a 26 foot wire is sometimes a bit harder to match on 40m depending on how it is 
deployed). 

Ground radial length isn’t critical, but i suggest at least 1/8 wave on the 
lowest frequency of operation and more is better.
I normally use 5 radials made out of a 20 foot length of 5 conductor computer 
ribbon cable with all wires shorted together at
one end and connected to a single banana plug. You then unzip the wires from 
the end opposite the banana plug so that you only have
about 4 feet at the banana plug end that is still ‘zipped”.  This makes it 
convenient to route the radial wires off  a picnic table etc. before they
splay out on the ground.  When packing up I just pull all of the wires straight 
together and clip them together at the unzipped end with an IKEA 
bag clip before rolling them up.  I use a 5 conductor cable as that is about my 
patience limit for radial deployment ;-) 

Cheers

Michael VE3WMB / VA2NB (KX1, K1, K2) 

>From: Walter Underwood mailto:wun...@wunderwood.org>>
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Small QRP antenna question
>Date: December 27, 2016 at 2:12:09 AM GMT-5
>To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector >


>For 80 meters, try a 53 foot wire in the air. For 40 meters and up, try a wire 
>26 to 29 feet long.

>I use a 16 foot wire laying on the ground. That length either isn’t critical, 
>or changes electrical length due to capacitance to RF ground at every site. Or 
>both. Whatever, the ATU seems to deal >with it.

>I assume you have the ATU.

>I have been using camping clothesline reels for the wire, but they don’t wind 
>up very smoothly. I just got some “midi” wire winders from SOTAbeams 
>(http://www.sotabeams.co.uk/midi->winders/ 
> >). The regular winders are longer 
>than my KX3. Haven’t used them yet.

>wunder
>K6WRU
>Walter Underwood
>CM87wj
>http://observer.wunderwood.org/  (my blog)
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Walter Underwood]

If you want a dummy load kit for about as much as you would pay for the box, I 
highly recommend the Oak Hills Research RFL-100 kit for $40.

http://www.ohr.com/rfl100.htm 

I used their “BNC in a UHF connector hole” kit to make my dummy load more 
convenient in my all-BNC shack.

http://www.ohr.com/parts.htm 

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Dec 27, 2016, at 9:41 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yes, and you should test the dummy load at the highest frequency you will be 
> using it.  Even leaded non-inductive resistors will have a reactive component 
> at higher frequencies.
> Frankly, I usually test them above the max frequency I intend to use it to 
> not have any concern about error.
> 
> Mel,  K6KBE
> 
> 
>  From: Ryan Noguchi via Elecraft 
> To: Paul C ; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
>  
> Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 8:16 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies
> 
>> I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
>> parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
>> measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
>> should I reduce it to 50?
> 
> 
> 
>> Paul KG5KXG
> 
> 
> If your impedance is really 51 ohms, that's an SWR of 1.02. If your antenna 
> had an SWR of 1.02, would you trim it to get to 1.00, fire up your tuner, or 
> just start operating?
> 
> However, some of those resistors that look like bricks are really coils 
> (inductors) inside, which produce a higher impedance than the DC resistance. 
> Under RF excitation, that dummy load may be well above 51 ohms impedance. 
> 
> 73, Ryan AI6DO  
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[Elecraft] Date Correction: Elecraft office is closed Monday and Tuesday (12/26-7) for the holiday

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Date Correction:  Monday and Tuesday 12/26-7.
Eric
/elecraft.com/

On 12/27/2016 9:37 AM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
The Elecraft HQ office is closed Monday and Tuesday (12/27-8) for the holiday. 
We will be back in the office and on the phones and email tomorrow, Wed, 12/28.


We hope you all are having a great holiday!

73,
Eric
/elecraft.com/



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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

Yes, and you should test the dummy load at the highest frequency you will be 
using it.  Even leaded non-inductive resistors will have a reactive component 
at higher frequencies.
Frankly, I usually test them above the max frequency I intend to use it to not 
have any concern about error.

Mel,  K6KBE


  From: Ryan Noguchi via Elecraft 
 To: Paul C ; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
 
 Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 8:16 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies
   
>I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
>parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
>measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
>should I reduce it to 50?



>Paul KG5KXG


If your impedance is really 51 ohms, that's an SWR of 1.02. If your antenna had 
an SWR of 1.02, would you trim it to get to 1.00, fire up your tuner, or just 
start operating?

However, some of those resistors that look like bricks are really coils 
(inductors) inside, which produce a higher impedance than the DC resistance. 
Under RF excitation, that dummy load may be well above 51 ohms impedance. 

73, Ryan AI6DO  
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[Elecraft] Elecraft office is closed Monday and Tuesday (12/26-7) for the holiday

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

The Elecraft HQ office is closed Monday and Tuesday (12/27-8) for the holiday. 
We will be back in the office and on the phones and email tomorrow, Wed, 12/28.


We hope you all are having a great holiday!

73,
Eric
/elecraft.com/

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 power socket

[Mark Hogan]

No such luck.  Looks like two of the pads lifted off the board.  The little 
tyke has to go to the mothership for repairs :( and they’re closed today so 
there will be another delay till tomorrow to send it in.


I suppose I’ll take advantage of that to have the two meter board added and see 
if theres other things that should or can be updated while its there for 
repairs.

I’ll have to find the box I saw that SGC 2020 in and pull it into service.  
That or hang with my single band rigs.

Mark Hogan N5OBC



> On Dec 27, 2016, at 10:33 AM, Mark Hogan  wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks folks,
> 
> Well I got a 125’ end fed hung this morning, actually added wire to my old 
> 53’ and my home brew EARCHI balun from the last house. The KX3 is tuning it 
> well 40 and below, struggled on 80/160 but made 2.4 and 2.6 on each.  I’ll 
> probably mess with that more later.  Now for chores around here and tonight 
> I’ll look inside to see what the damage is and see can I get it with my WTCPT 
> and the tiny tip.  I should be up on the SKCC frees tonight or in a day or 
> so.  Need to find myself before K3Y starts :)
> 
> Mark Hogan N5OBC
> 
> 
> 
>> On Dec 26, 2016, at 7:28 PM, Matt Zilmer  wrote:
>> 
>> Mark,
>> 
>> It's happened before, usually because the power cable was pulled out with 
>> too much side (off-axis) force.  I don't know of any other cause.
>> 
>> 73,
>> 
>> matt W6NIA
>> 
>> 
>> On 12/26/2016 4:45 PM, Mark Hogan wrote:
>>> I have SN 31, I recently finished our house and setup the shack.  Radios
>>> been boxed about a year since we moved.  It was a desk rig at the last
>>> house with a occasional trip to the back yard.
>>> When I plug it in to 12v I get nothing.  I unplugged and plugged it in
>>> several times and got voltage to charge the batts.  Looking in the hole it
>>> appears the sockets got one leg loose on the board. Was that a issue or am
>>> I one of the special kids? :)
>>> 
>>> Mark Hogan N5OBC
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>>> 
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>>> Message delivered to mzil...@roadrunner.com
>> 
>> -- 
>> Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
>> www.elecraft.com
>> Office: 831-763-4211 x125
>> Mobile: 909-730-6552
>> [Shiraz]
>> 
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> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Ryan Noguchi via Elecraft]

>I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
>parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
>measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
>should I reduce it to 50?



>Paul KG5KXG


If your impedance is really 51 ohms, that's an SWR of 1.02. If your antenna had 
an SWR of 1.02, would you trim it to get to 1.00, fire up your tuner, or just 
start operating?

However, some of those resistors that look like bricks are really coils 
(inductors) inside, which produce a higher impedance than the DC resistance. 
Under RF excitation, that dummy load may be well above 51 ohms impedance. 

73, Ryan AI6DO   
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 power socket

[Mark Hogan]

Thanks folks,

Well I got a 125’ end fed hung this morning, actually added wire to my old 53’ 
and my home brew EARCHI balun from the last house. The KX3 is tuning it well 40 
and below, struggled on 80/160 but made 2.4 and 2.6 on each.  I’ll probably 
mess with that more later.  Now for chores around here and tonight I’ll look 
inside to see what the damage is and see can I get it with my WTCPT and the 
tiny tip.  I should be up on the SKCC frees tonight or in a day or so.  Need to 
find myself before K3Y starts :)

Mark Hogan N5OBC



> On Dec 26, 2016, at 7:28 PM, Matt Zilmer  wrote:
> 
> Mark,
> 
> It's happened before, usually because the power cable was pulled out with too 
> much side (off-axis) force.  I don't know of any other cause.
> 
> 73,
> 
> matt W6NIA
> 
> 
> On 12/26/2016 4:45 PM, Mark Hogan wrote:
>> I have SN 31, I recently finished our house and setup the shack.  Radios
>> been boxed about a year since we moved.  It was a desk rig at the last
>> house with a occasional trip to the back yard.
>> When I plug it in to 12v I get nothing.  I unplugged and plugged it in
>> several times and got voltage to charge the batts.  Looking in the hole it
>> appears the sockets got one leg loose on the board. Was that a issue or am
>> I one of the special kids? :)
>> 
>> Mark Hogan N5OBC
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to mzil...@roadrunner.com
> 
> -- 
> Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
> www.elecraft.com
> Office: 831-763-4211 x125
> Mobile: 909-730-6552
> [Shiraz]
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Ken G Kopp]

Paul,

Kevin is likely correct.  If those two resistors have a sand-like finish
they're almost certain to be wire wound and therefore will have some
inductance,
which will cause your load to give "uncertain" results.

Your 51 ohm would be OK.  Your ohmmeter isn't -that- accurate, after all.

Elecraft sells a nice load kit that has an additional feature of a
calibrated wattmeter output.

73

Ken Kopp - K0PP



On Dec 27, 2016 7:44 AM, "Paul C"  wrote:

I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in
parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I
measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or
should I reduce it to 50?

Paul KG5KXG
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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Kevin - K4VD]

​Plenty close enough. Only issue I can think of (besides the normal safety
stuff) is to make sure the resistors are not of the wirewound variety.

Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Price reduced on K3-100 and accessories

[Buddy Brannan]

No, you mustn't. There's absolutely no reason you have to get rid of your K3 
because you're losing your eyesight, absolutely none. If you want to leave ham 
radio for some other reason, that's another thing, but blindness doesn't, and 
shouldn't, stop you from enjoying ham radio. 

In the case of the K3, the K3 software works really well with screen reader 
software, and presumably with screen enlargement software as well. 

If you want to operate the K3 standalone, i.e. without a computer, here's a 
great solution:
http://www.hampod.com/

This gadget will make absolutely all K3 functions speak. You can get voice 
output of every function, including, I'm told, RTTY/PSK/cw decode. 

There are lots of blind hams. I know of a few of them, including me, on this 
list, and a few ore that are happy Elecraft users. 

If you want help or to talk over your other options with other blind hams, 
here's an email reflector:

blind-hams-subscr...@porkcast.net

Vy 73,

--
Buddy Brannan, KB5ELV - Erie, PA
Phone: 814-860-3194 
Mobile: 814-431-0962
Email: bu...@brannan.name




> On Dec 27, 2016, at 10:17 AM, William Hartman via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> I must leave ham radio due to failing  eyesight.  I am selling my K3 with 
> mike  plus Astron power supply, Total price is $1575..  All equipment is 
> factory new.  For the cw crowd I will include at no extra cost a Ham Gadgets 
> keyer and a bluetooth- connected keyboard. The K3 has the ATU, 400hz roofing 
> filter, and voice recorder installed.  Contact me at N6FB @aol.com for details
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[Elecraft] Price reduced on K3-100 and accessories

[William Hartman via Elecraft]

I must leave ham radio due to failing  eyesight.  I am selling my K3 with mike  
plus Astron power supply, Total price is $1575..  All equipment is factory new. 
 For the cw crowd I will include at no extra cost a Ham Gadgets keyer and a 
bluetooth- connected keyboard. The K3 has the ATU, 400hz roofing filter, and 
voice recorder installed.  Contact me at N6FB @aol.com for details
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Re: [Elecraft] No"tun" for my KX1

[Ian Kahn]

Paul,

Email supp...@elecraft.com, and go from there. The Elecraft support team
will take very good care of you.

Good luck, and Happy New Year!

73 de,

Ian, KM4IK


On Dec 27, 2016 9:40 AM, "Paul C"  wrote:

I was wondering if Elecraft has a real tech support phone number or
official support email address aside from this user forum.  I ask because I
am a novice to this rig and QRP in general, and I have several short
critical questions which are much too tedious for email.

Construction went smoothly but now I'm at the testing point and I'm a
little uncertain on what to expect.  The manual is a little vague.  I guess
I need a genuine tutorial.

I called the number lists in the manual and it was disconnected.

Thank you,

Paul KG5KXG
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[Elecraft] Dummy loads for dummies

[Paul C]

I made my own dummy load last night from two 100 ohm resistors wired in 
parallel.  They are rated for 10 watts each and look like little bricks.  I 
measured the resistance at 51 ohms.  Do you think this is close enough or 
should I reduce it to 50?

Paul KG5KXG
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[Elecraft] No"tun" for my KX1

[Paul C]

I was wondering if Elecraft has a real tech support phone number or official 
support email address aside from this user forum.  I ask because I am a novice 
to this rig and QRP in general, and I have several short critical questions 
which are much too tedious for email.

Construction went smoothly but now I'm at the testing point and I'm a little 
uncertain on what to expect.  The manual is a little vague.  I guess I need a 
genuine tutorial.  

I called the number lists in the manual and it was disconnected.

Thank you,

Paul KG5KXG
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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

[Nate Bargmann]

Hi Ed, and all.

I'm not sure where the confusion lies, perhaps I did not communicate
well.  I'm not seeing any problem.  I have my rig control settings
exactly as recommended in the WSJT-X user guide.

All I wanted to point out is whether the use of VOX as reported was the
cause for the loss of TX audio.  I have WSJT-X set to use CAT for PTT.
As presumably the OP is already using radio control, it makes little
sense to me to use VOX.  By setting PTT via CAT, spurious sounds from
the computer will not cause the radio to transmit.

73, Nate, N0NB

-- 

"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds.  The pessimist fears this is true."

Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
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[Elecraft] Antenna

[Keith Hutt]

I will second the 53ft of wire though i use 2 x16 ft counterpoises with my KX2

Regards

Keith G0TSH

For 80 meters, try a 53 foot wire in the air. For 40 meters and up, try a wire 
26 to 29 feet long.

I use a 16 foot wire laying on the ground. That length either isn’t critical, 
or changes electrical length due to capacitance to RF ground at every site. Or 
both. Whatever, the ATU seems to deal with it.

I assume you have the ATU.

I have been using camping clothesline reels for the wire, but they don’t wind 
up very smoothly. I just got some “midi” wire winders from SOTAbeams 
(http://www.sotabeams.co.uk/midi-winders/ 
). The regular winders are longer 
than my KX3. Haven’t used them yet.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Dec 26, 2016, at 10:33 PM, Terry Brown  wrote:
> 
> Hello Group,
> 
> 
> 
> I currently use a doublet about 63 ft. on each side feeding 300 ohm twin
> lead line into an Elecraft balun, then coax to my KX3.
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to be going to New Zealand for about three weeks during February,
> and I am seriously considering taking my KX3 with me and operate N7TB/ZL.  I
> just don't want to take the doublet because of size.  I have one of the BNC
> to binding posts adapters for my KX3, and that seems like the best solution,
> I just don't know how long my antenna wire should be, or the counterpoise.
> I would appreciate any suggestions.  I would like to have the ability to
> operate 80, 40, 30, 20, but I could get by without 80 meters.  
> 
> 
> 
> I would also be interested to find out from any Kiwi operators what the
> current band conditions are in NZ.  It will be later in the Summer in the
> Southern Hemisphere when I am there, so I would hope conditions on the 80
> and 40 meter bands will be better than what we are currently experiencing in
> the No. Hemisphere.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me.
> 
> 
> 
> Very 73's,
> 
> 
> 
> Terry, N7TB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] submission

[ik8ozzluigi]

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