Re: [Elecraft] [SPAM] K3S - High SWR on 6 Meters

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Glad the solution was simple.  And THANKS for posting your results.   I wish 
others would do the same when their issues are resolved. 

73
Bob, K4TAX 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 15, 2022, at 10:25 AM, N4ST - Jim  wrote:
> 
> For some reason, my previous post did not show up.
> 
> *** PROBLEM SOLVED ***
> 
> I had an old LPA/PA combo that was replaced with an upgraded LPA/PA combo.
> The new PA required a configuration setting that inserted 6dB of attenuation 
> in the amplifier chain to avoid instabilities.
> The old combo would not reach full power if the attenuation was inserted, but 
> the new combo was unstable unless it was.
> Keith at Elecraft and also K7HP both suggested the "fix" and that was indeed 
> the problem!
> 
> 
> 73,
> Jim - N4ST
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
> Behalf Of Bob McGraw
> Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2022 20:56
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [SPAM] [Elecraft] K3S - High SWR on 6 Meters
> 
> Is the ATU in BYPASS or  AUTO mode?  A dit would cause it to resolve a 
> match or recall a previous match.   If your 6M antenna has an SWR of 
> 1.5:1 or less, then the ATU should be in BYPASS mode for 6M.
> 
> With WSJT-X, is the Radio Setup menu set to Fake It or SPLIT? If SPLIT, 
> then is VFO B on some random or frequency distant from VFO A?   I 
> suggest setting the WSJT-X Setup to Fake it.
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
>> On 6/14/2022 7:46 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
>> Message: 6
>> Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2022 09:37:33 -0600
>> From: "N4ST - Jim"
>> To:,
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S - High SWR on 6 Meters
>> Message-ID:<02b901d88004$aafe32c0$00fa9840$@n4st.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> High SWR occurs immediately when using the FT8 Tune function on WSJT-X
>> It does not occur initially with a dummy load, however once the high SWR
>> state occurs, it persists when switching to a dummy load.
>> A CW dit will clear the high SWR state..
>> 
>> ___
>> 73,
>> Jim - N4ST
> 
> -- 
> IF ONE EXPECTS COMPUTERS AND TECHNOLOGY TO SOLVE THEIR PROBLEMS,
> ONE DOESN'T UNDERSTAND COMPUTERS AND TECHNOLOGY
> AND ONE DOESN'T UNDERSTAND THEIR PROBLEMS."
> 
> 
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> 


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 214, Issue 6

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Bob

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 16, 2022, at 10:33 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> 
> Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to
>elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>elecraft-ow...@mailman.qth.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: When is a Key Out not a Key Out (Julia Tuttle)
>   2. Re: Key In - Key Out (W3AB/GEO)
>   3. K3 strange overshoot (Bob McGraw)
>   4. Re: K3 strange overshoot (Jim Brown)
>   5. Re: Lots of Elecraft seen in contest video (Josh Fiden)
>   6. K4D delivery time (Chuck Chandler)
>   7. Re: K4D delivery time (Jim Rhodes)
>   8. Re: K4D delivery time (Jim Brown)
>   9. Elecraft One-Time Deals -- special prices & limited
>  quantities (Wayne Burdick)
>  10. Re: K4 Pricing (K5WA)
>  11. Re: K4 Pricing (Magnus Danielson)
>  12. Re: K4 Pricing (Brian Maynard)
>  13. Elecraft CW Net Announcement (kevin)
>  14. Sunday 40 Meter SSB net 7280, 1900Z (Steve Hall)
>  15. Re: K4 Pricing (Bill Johnson)
>  16. Elecraft CW Net Report (kevin)
>  17. K3 BG COMMAND (K4PI.Mike Greenway)
>  18. K3 with PX3 Panadapter (Ed G)
>  19. Re: K3 with PX3 Panadapter (Mark Goldberg)
>  20. End of 3G will not affect your Amateur Radio service
>  (Wayne Burdick)
>  21. Re: End of 3G will not affect your Amateur Radio service
>  (Gwen Patton)
>  22. Re: End of 3G will not affect your Amateur Radio service
>  (Gwen Patton)
>  23. Re: End of 3G will not affect your Amateur Radio service
>  (Ingo Meyer DK3RED)
>  24. Re: End of 3G will not affect your Amateur Radio service
>  (j...@kk9a.com)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2022 16:08:49 -0500
> From: Julia Tuttle 
> To: Pete Smith N4ZR 
> Cc: Elecraft List 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] When is a Key Out not a Key Out
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> It was technically an attack on your reason for disliking "KEY OUT", not
> you! I try to be careful to attack ideas, not people.
> 
>> On Fri, Feb 11, 2022 at 4:06 PM Pete Smith N4ZR  wrote:
>> 
>> Well, at least I managed to precipitate something all too rare on the
>> Internet these days, unanimity.  And only one of the responses went
>> beyond disagreeing, to attack me personally - that's progress of a sort.
>> 
>> 73, Pete N4ZR
>> Check out the new Reverse Beacon Network
>> web server at .
>> For spots, please use your favorite
>> "retail" DX cluster.
>> 
>>> On 2/11/2022 1:23 PM, Nate Bargmann wrote:
>>> So, "keying the mic" or "keying up a repeater" is not proper
>>> terminology?  I've long heard the phrase of "the radio keys the
>>> amplifier", etc.
>>> 
>>> I need to go back to Novice class I guess...
>>> 
>>> 73, Nate, N0NB
>>> 
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> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2022 15:37:38 -0600
> From: W3AB/GEO 
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Key In - Key Out
> Message-ID: <907b114cafae7faf12cbe8d1d37d0...@w3ab.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
> 
> A very easy solution is at hand in most of our tool boxes, a label 
> maker.
> 
> Don't like the label you see, customize it. hihi
> 
> ---
> 73 de W3AB/GEO
> AFA9GB
> 
> WA2LSI, KE6RJW, W7B, AAR9AG
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2022 16:06:39 -0600
> From: Bob McGraw 
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 strange overshoot
> Message-ID: <2ed546bc-0166-8855-c92c-def44aa0e...@benlomand.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
> 
> Although my configuration is a bit different,? K3S, P3, KPA500, and 
> KAT500, I see a small initial overshoot when changing bands. Drive power 
> for each band is different.? PWR SET is Per Band.? TUN PWR is set for 20 
> watts.?? I have the amp configured to switch to STBY when changing 
> bands.? I manually put it into OPER after a band change. I attribute 
> the issue to be the ALC and power control system in the radio getting 
> its act together.? K3S firmware version is?? uC 05.67.
> 
> Operationally, when changing bands, I hit TUNE to make sure all is well 
> with the switching and tuning.? Then place the amp in OPE

[Elecraft] P3 Failure and such

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I’ve always found and was taught that one should not just dump the power on 
station shut-down. This could be the cause of many mysterious and lucid 
operation 

 Likewise; on power up:
(A). Power supply on first
(B). Transceiver on next
(C). P3 on if not powered from the K3
(D). KAT500 on if not powered from the K3

Shutdown the items in reverse order. NEVER just dump the power as there is a 
Power Down Imminent (PDI) circuit which saves data and then correctly shuts 
down the systems. 

73
Bob, K4TAX

Sent from my iPhone

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[Elecraft] Internal tuner with random wire

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

The comments are good .  But considering all the pluses and minuses, wouldn’t 
it make more sense to use a OCFD and not worry about ground rods, counterpoise 
needs, high SWR, high voltage and currents in the tuner?   A well designed OCFD 
with correct Balun plus a common mode choke at the feed point and another at 
the radio will cover 80M - 10M with much less than a 10:1 SWR. 

A matched condition exists only between the ATU input and the PA output. The 
output voltage or current can be all over the place, including inside the ATU 
circuits.   And the ATU has a 10:1 matching range of 5 ohms to 500 ohms.  
Random wires can easily be outside of this range.  Thus the ATU can not 
effectively match the load.  

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

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[Elecraft] KPA500/KAT500 and RTTY

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

While I don't often run RTTY, I do run a good bit of PSK-31, WSJT-X FT-8 
and MSK-144 along with CW and SSB modes.   I do watch the PA temp, 
specially as it nears 65 to 70 degrees C.   I also run with the Fan on 
#1 or #2 for starters.    I know some will say it doesn't make a 
difference while others say it will.   As to me, I know that heat is the 
downfall of solid state electronics.  Cool is always better.


For the above, I normally run 400 to 500 watts, depending which power 
indicator I choose.  And, a very important point,  at any time I never 
exceed 500 watts into a well matched load.   I do have a Bird 43P with a 
500 watt, 2 - 30 MHz, element in-line between the amp output and ATU 
input.   I also have a 500 watt element, 25 - 60 MHz, for 6 meters.


Two facts to which I view one must pay attention:  {per the KPA500 manual}

(a) Duty Cycle a 500 watts = 10 minutes key down / 5 minutes standby

(b) Heat Sink Temp = 90°C Maximum  {194° F}

I view if one exceeds either of these two items abovethey just 
became a very underpaid design and test engineer.


73

Bob, K4TAX

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 2020 08:36:54 -0800
From: Dave Cole
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500/KAT500 and RTTY


Thanks sir...

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 12/2/20 8:24 AM, Gordon LaPoint wrote:


Dave,

I have done many RTTY contests and regular qso's using the
KPA500/KAT500/K3 over the last few years. I run full 500 watts with no
problems, the temp gets up to the 60 to 65 range a lot when calling CQ
in a contest, or during a 10 minute tx.? If the temp gets to 70 then the
fan kicks into high gear and is very noisy, but still within specs.
Gordon - N1MGO

On 12/2/2020 9:57 AM, Dave Cole wrote:

Hi,

Any recommendations as to the max power I might run using a KPA500 and
KAT500, on say, a three to five minute transmission?

Also, what is the recommended max temp for the PA on this device as
measured by the KPA500?


_

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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced Mic to Unbalanced Connection Follow Up Question

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Tony;

Seems you have done an excellent job and things are working as you 
expected.   And a special thanks to you for reporting back to the group 
your findings and results.   I wish everyone did that. We'd all be 
informed.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/11/2020 8:00 PM, Tony wrote:

All:

The K3S seems to work flawlessly with XLR cable connected to the rear 
panel mic input as per the groups recommendations. I have pins 1 and 3 
connected to the sleeve of the 1/8" plug and pin 2 to the tip. I'm 
using a dynamic mic so the bias is turned off. This setup works fine 
on the KX3 as well.


If anyone is interested, I have a brand new Heil XLR cable for the K3S 
that I won't be using.


Thanks,

Tony -K2MO


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 QSK Timing

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Not being  a high speed CW op nor a contest CW op, I find that QSK is, 
well, just very nice.   I don't need to hear between the CW elements, 
nor even the letters, but more so in between the words.   Some ops have  
a clean fist but run all the words together.  No spaces.  Drives me 
nuts. Itwouldbelikemewritingthismessageandnotputtinginanyspaces    Now 
that just doesn't work with my brain.


As to break-in or full QSK, I see it much like a conversation occurs in 
a room.  There's thoughts shared back and forth between participants and 
does  the allude to swapping ops.  Yet, one can operate semi-QSK with 
the same style and results.   Seems that after all, once CW speed gets 
above certain points, hearing between CW elements and words become non 
existent.


After 61 years as a ham, starting as a Novice in 1959, I'm becoming a 
fairly good CW op and likewise enjoying it.   I use it largely to 
stimulate my old slow brain.


73

Bob, K4TAX




On 6/11/2020 11:59 AM, Al Lorona wrote:

I have always felt as K9ZTV does.

I don't mean to speak heresy here, and I would never deny anybody's right to 
use full QSK, such as when chasing DX. However, I have never felt the need to 
hear between dits. Between characters or words seems more than enough for me, 
especially at the CW speeds where most people exist. Plus, I've always felt it 
was rude to be interrupted during a transmission for anything other than an 
emergency. One time, when I was a novice, the other guy suddenly broke in 
frantically: MUST QRT QRT LOST BIAS. That was definitely a valid emergency. I 
could almost smell his final getting red hot and hear the plate current pegging 
the meter that evening.

Al  W6LX



For any practical purpose needed by amateur radio operators that I can think 
of, the ability to hear between elements is not a life-and-death virtue.  The 
ability to hear between characters is by far magical enough.

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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced Mic to Unbalanced Connection Follow Up Question

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I use a Shure SM-58 mike with my K3S. It is a balanced dynamic mike.

It has an XLR at the mike and the 8 pin Foster connector at the radio.  
I use good quality, 2 conductor, shielded mike cable.


It is wired as follows:

XLR pin #1 to Foster pin #8  {shield}

XLR pin #2 to Foster pin #1  {black}

XLR pin #3 to Foster pin#7 {white}

Operating 160M - 6M at 500 watts or less, I find no issues with the 
wiring convention as it works very satisfactory.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 6/11/2020 8:15 AM, Rich wrote:
Interesting stuff here.   Since the original post was regarding the 
Rear Mic jack.   Would this method also be recommended for the Front 
Panel Mic Jack also?


My guess is yes

Rich

K3RWN

On 6/9/2020 22:50 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Joe,

I did not say anything to the contrary.  The 'dongle' that I was 
referring to is the connection to pin 1 which should be connected to 
the outside of the K3/K3S enclosure.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/9/2020 9:13 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


On 2020-06-09 8:14 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

So --- make an adapter so that pins 2 and 3 are connected to the tip
and ring of the mic jack,

No, no, no!  The ring of the K3/K3S rear panel mic jack *IS FLOATING*.
Pins 2 and 3 of the XLR *MUST BE* connected to tip and *SLEEVE*.

73,

    ... Joe, W4TV


On 2020-06-09 8:14 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
So --- make an adapter so that pins 2 and 3 are connected to the 
tip and ring of the mic jack, then add a one wire 'dongle' exiting 
from the XLR plug that is connected to XLR pin 1.  Connect that 
wire to a screw on the chassis of the K3/K3S/KX2/KX3.


Noise, hum and buzz are  then conducted from the shield onto the 
"outside" of the radio enclosure where it should be - avoiding the 
"pin 1" problem that K9YC often refers to.


For those not familiar with the "pin 1" problem, it is caused by 
the jacks in the transceiver (or other gear) being connected to the 
circuit board ground plane where it can couple into sensitive 
circuits and cause coupling problems. Proper bonding between 
enclosures following the path of audio or coax lines can minimize 
that problem by keeping some of the noise, hum and buzz mostly on 
the outside of the enclosure rather than injecting it into the 
circuits on the board ground plane.
We did not have this problem when we mounted the jacks on the 
enclosure rather than mounting them on the boards, usually isolated 
from the outside of the enclosure.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/9/2020 7:47 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


Correcting *ALL* the typos  



So which is correct?


They are electrically equivalent.

Pin 2 of the XLR connection is Mic+
Pin 3 of the XLR connection is Mic-
Pin 1 of the XLR connection is the cable shield (ground).

Mic audio is present between pins 2 and 3.

Pin 1 is nothing more than a shield and should be independently
connected to the *chassis at the jack*.

Good quality XLR cables use a *TWISTED PAIR* for pins 2 and 3.
That twisted pair is shelf shielding - particularly good for
rejecting hum. Connecting a shield in parallel with the wire
for pin 3 "unbalances" the twisted pair and makes it much
more susceptible to hum and RFI - particularly when the shell
of the 3.5mm plug/jack is not tied to the chassis/case of the
transceiver.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

And perfect will never occur.  So one best think of adequate.

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 6/10/2020 1:42 PM, W2xj wrote:

adequate is not perfect. YMMV

Sent from my iPad


On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:07 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:

In referencing TF.NIST.GOV on page 251, I find it stated;

"When high accuracy is not required, probably and fastest way of comparing the 
frequency of an oscillator to a broadcast standard is the familiar heterodyne or zero 
beat method."

And then on page 253, I find it stated;

" Usually, however, it is difficult to adjust an oscillator to exactly zero beat 
with an HF carrier beyond the ground wave range of the transmitter.  The problem arises 
from rapid fluctuations in the received signal strength and from propagation flutter in 
the received frequency."

References are: THE USES AND LIMITATION OF HF STANDARD BROADCAST FOR TIME AND 
FREQUENCY COMPARISON.  John T. Stanley, NIST.

As I indicated earlier, a frequency accuracy of +/- 1 Hz for ham radio purposes 
is adequate.  Likewise for time accuracy +/- 0.1 second is adequate.

73

Bob, K4TAX



On 6/10/2020 11:52 AM, w4sc wrote:
How much doppler shift should be expected?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: W2xj
Sent: Saturday, June 6, 2020 5:31 PM
To: w4sc
Cc: wes_n...@triconet.org; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration

the problem with WWV is doppler shift.

Sent from my iPad


On Jun 6, 2020, at 5:27 PM, w4sc  wrote:

I like the zero beat WWV method.  Used it in the Navy to calibrate / PM the 
10MHz frequency standards aboard ship. Requires the least amount of test 
equipment!  If you can receive WWV on 20MHz to calibrate the K3/K3S, all the 
better,

Using a frequency counter I would think  0.1Hz resolution and attending 
accuracy would be in order, plus an accurate time base in the counter, GPS 
locked,,, or oven-ized, on all the time reference ,,, ect.

Ben W4SC


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

In referencing TF.NIST.GOV on page 251, I find it stated;

"When high accuracy is not required, probably and fastest way of 
comparing the frequency of an oscillator to a broadcast standard is the 
familiar heterodyne or zero beat method. "


And then on page 253, I find it stated;

" Usually, however, it is difficult to adjust an oscillator to exactly 
zero beat with an HF carrier beyond the ground wave range of the 
transmitter.  The problem arises from rapid fluctuations in the received 
signal strength and from propagation flutter in the received frequency."


References are: THE USES AND LIMITATION OF HF STANDARD BROADCAST FOR 
TIME AND FREQUENCY COMPARISON.  John T. Stanley, NIST.


As I indicated earlier, a frequency accuracy of +/- 1 Hz for ham radio 
purposes is adequate.  Likewise for time accuracy +/- 0.1 second is 
adequate.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/10/2020 11:52 AM, w4sc wrote:

How much doppler shift should be expected?

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: W2xj
Sent: Saturday, June 6, 2020 5:31 PM
To: w4sc
Cc: wes_n...@triconet.org; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration

the problem with WWV is doppler shift.

Sent from my iPad


On Jun 6, 2020, at 5:27 PM, w4sc  wrote:

I like the zero beat WWV method.  Used it in the Navy to calibrate / PM the 
10MHz frequency standards aboard ship. Requires the least amount of test 
equipment!  If you can receive WWV on 20MHz to calibrate the K3/K3S, all the 
better,

Using a frequency counter I would think  0.1Hz resolution and attending 
accuracy would be in order, plus an accurate time base in the counter, GPS 
locked,,, or oven-ized, on all the time reference ,,, ect.

Ben W4SC


Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] Balanced Mic to Unbalanced Connection Follow Up Question

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Since the input is clearly marked MONO, a tip-sleeve is the correct plug. If 
one uses a TRS plug, the ring should be connected to the sleeve inside the 
plug. 

Using a mike which has an XLR, pin 2 should connect to the Tip, pin 3 to the 
sleeve, and the shield only connects to XLR pin 1 at the mike.  It does not 
connect to the sleeve at the radio. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 9, 2020, at 10:20 PM, Nr4c  wrote:
> 
> If yuh ou use a TRS plug, don’t use the “ring” for anything. 
> 
> Extending the pin 1 wire out of the connector and connecting to the radio 
> “Ground” lug is also tecvonended in some circles. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
>> On Jun 9, 2020, at 4:51 PM, Tony  wrote:
>> 
>> All:
>> 
>> I have a follow-up question regarding balanced mics and unbalanced 
>> connections. I'm about to connect a balanced dynamic microphone (Heil 
>> PR-781) to the rear mic input on my K3S which has a 1/8" unbalanced mono 
>> connection.
>> 
>> One recommendation was to connect XLR pin #2 mic (+) to the tip of the 1/8" 
>> jack and pin #3 mic (-) to the sleeve. In this case, pin #1 or ground is 
>> left floating with no connection. A 1/8" mono jack was recommended for this 
>> setup.
>> 
>> The other recommendation was to connect pin #2 to the tip and pin #1 and #3 
>> to the sleeve of the 1/8" jack. It was also suggested that I can use either 
>> a 1/8" mono or a stereo TRS jack in both cases.
>> 
>> So which is correct?
>> 
>> Tony -K2MO
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/100 suddenly shut down on FT8 TX

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I’m curious.  When transmitting, why would one press the POWER button on the 
radio other than to turn the radio off?   

Something I am missing here. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 8, 2020, at 9:34 PM, Yoshida Akira  wrote:
> 
> Hi all
> 
> Thanks for suggestions. All look OK to me.
> 
> Power supply is Powerwerx ss-30DV. I do not use Powerpole connector
> in the front panel, instead use terminal in the back panel.
> 
> I use this power supply for another TRX also and have never noticed the 
> problem.
> 
> 73
> 
>> On 2020/06/09 9:00, Yoshida Akira wrote:
>> Hi all
>> 
>> I have never seen this for many years, however I recently noticed twice
>> when transmitting FT8 with 100W. No alarm and error message.
>> When I simply push POWER button in front panel then it turns ON again.
>> 
>> PA temp, DC voltage and DC current looks good. I do not believe RFI
>> cause this problem.
>> 
>> Any idea ?
>> 
> -- 
> 73 de aki
> JA1NLX
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Re: [Elecraft] CW rise time setting

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Thanks Wayne for the excellent and exceptional clean keying.  

73
Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 7, 2020, at 8:49 PM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> 
>> 
>> N4ZR wrote:
>> 
>> Will the K4 have options for setting CW rise and fall times...?
> 
> Hi Pete,
> 
> Probably not. We've always been very careful to ensure our rigs have an 
> exceptional clean, click-free CW signal. (Third-party testing bears this 
> out.) Minimizing the bandwidth requires a very specific rise/fall time and a 
> hand-crafted sigmoidal shaping function in DSP.
> 
> Colonel Sanders closely guards his fried chick recipe, Mrs. Fields won't 
> reveal what's in her chocolate-chip cookies, and only selected firmware 
> monks--sworn to secrecy--are privy to Elecraft's keying envelope coefficients 
> :)
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S dead after attempted firmware update - Fixed

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Since Microsoft does not know of every piece of software, on every 
Windows computer in the world, for simplicity, very often a Windows 
update will set values to DEFAULT values.  Therefore, it is necessary 
for the user to set certain parameters to their preferred values after 
an update.    I view that this is no fault of Windows, it is just the 
way they handle updates.    Unless one is very familiar with the 
in-depth operation of Windows,  it is wise for anyone to make notes of 
values, locations and they way one access certain application settings.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 6/7/2020 2:48 PM, barry halterman wrote:

This is a classic case of CRE or Cosmic Ray Effect. No reason, just happens.

On Sun, Jun 7, 2020, 1:51 PM Ian Kahn, NV4C  wrote:


Ray,

By any chance did your first computer receive any updates from Microsoft
recently? MS updates are well-known to completely bugger custom
settings, including COM port settings.

Just a thought.

73 de,

Ian, NV4C


On 6/7/20 10:42 AM, Ray Spreadbury via Elecraft wrote:

Hi Buck

What did I do to fix it?

Well I left the K3S disconnected for an hour or so while I read the

"trouble

shooting" sections in the owners manuals. I decided to change the power
supply & use a different PC & a different USB cable.

To my surprise the K3S then started normally & with the new PC I was

able to

download a new copy of the Utility program & the latest firmware. This
connected immediately to the K3S.

So, what was wrong & why did it not work before?

I have absolutely no idea!

73 Ray G3XLG

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Re: [Elecraft] Key Clicks

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

There are actually 2 time elements involved.  First is the time between 
key closure and the amp key command.  This is approximately 3ms of 
processing time inside the radio.  The second is amp key command to RF 
generation out of the radio.  This is the 5ms between amp key command 
and RF generation.    These are summed together to get the total time 
from Key closure to  RF generation of about 8ms.


One other company to which I'm very familiar,  specs their radio as 15 
ms RF delay.  What is not disclosed is a breakdown of this 15ms,  that 7 
ms of the total time occurs from key closure to amp key command, thus 
leaving 8ms from amp key command to RF generation.  This requires the 
amp to switch in 7ms or less.   A mechanical relay is really being 
pushed to accomplish this fact. This 15ms delay is not user adjustable.  
And the CW rise and fall time is 5ms.  A bit fast for a really clean 
signal.    Another model of the brand offers and adjustable CW rise and 
fall time adjustable between 3 - 10 ms.  The longer time makes for a 
much cleaner CW signal.  Again the delay from key closure to RF 
generation is in the order of 15ms.


Older amp designs, typically those that do not clearly provide QSK 
identification or mode, are typically not suitable for QSK operation.   
Thus switching one of these amps at the faster speeds will most likely 
cause hot switching, resulting in key clicks and eventually relay failure.


I've found the K3S and KPA500 to produce some of the cleanest CW signals 
on the bands.   Timing is the secret and the design team at Elecraft 
have focused heavily on this aspect of these products.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/6/2020 10:19 PM, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote:
In fact, it's closer to 5-6 ms when set to 8. And of course it depends 
on the amp. A general rule to "set it to 9" is silly. It just has to 
give the relays time to settle down.



73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
CWops no. 5
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
On 07-Jun-2020 04:00, David Gilbert wrote:

QSK has everything to do with it.  If you hot switch the amp you create
sharp waveforms every element even if the K3 keying is soft. The
discussion on the contesting forum included comments that the default
setting for TXDELAY on the K3 (apparently 008) isn't long enough and 
that

it should be set to 009.  Not sure which amps were being considered.

73,
Dave   AB7E



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Re: [Elecraft] Key Clicks

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

With my P3 I observe many CW signals that are wide.  And key clicks are 
easily recognized.  Likewise, transmit phase noise is also recognized as 
some signals are wide and some are very narrow.    Casual observations  
seem to center on one particular brand of radio that is most prone to 
have key clicks.   I've owned 2 of them and both were plagued with key 
clicks.   On one CW net which I participate, one of the ops can send a 
single dit or dah and I'll know exactly who it is.   His signal is that 
identifiable.


Yes, amps with slow relays are very prone to generate key clicks.   Even 
amps with vacuum relays with an accelerator circuit are often a bit 
slow.  One of the current, on the market, new amps selling today has a 
switching time which I measured of about 15 ms. There is no way this amp 
should be used in a QSK station operation or even a Semi-QSK unless the 
delay time is extended out to 17 ms to 18 ms.    That is one reason I 
sold it and purchased a KPA500.


Some amps contain a circuit which prevents hot switching. However, if 
the delay is not sufficient, the amp will not switch into transmit.  
This amp also uses two lines between the amp and radio.  One is the amp 
command, and the other is the radio command which occurs after the amp 
has switched.   I've owned one of those and the matching radio and it is 
a super combination for QSK operation.


I am also aware that several of the new ARRL Volunteer Monitor stations 
have and are reporting those stations with wide signals and stations 
with key clicks.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/6/2020 8:00 PM, David Gilbert wrote:

QSK has everything to do with it.  If you hot switch the amp you create
sharp waveforms every element even if the K3 keying is soft.  The
discussion on the contesting forum included comments that the default
setting for TXDELAY on the K3 (apparently 008) isn't long enough and that
it should be set to 009.  Not sure which amps were being considered.

73,
Dave   AB7E

On Sat, Jun 6, 2020 at 5:40 PM John Simmons 
wrote:


I have operated a number of the 'big' CW contests. I have heard some
really, really wide sigs with horrible key clicks. Yes they were
strong but 10 KHz wide? Rob Sherwood and others have written about
this. Some of the really high-end rigs (non-Elecraft) allow user
adjustment of CW rise time to such short values that key clicks are
guaranteed. Yech!

-de John NI0K

Fred Jensen wrote on 6/6/2020 7:05 PM:

True. TXDelay is a sequencing parameter to assure that downstream
switching has completed before RF appears. The keying waveform
[particularly the edges and "corners"] affect the sidebands and thus
bandwidth of the CW signal.  I don't believe QSK has anything to do
with it, at least for a K3.

73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/6/2020 4:55 PM, N4ZR wrote:

There's a big discussion going on in contesting circles online about
the problem of key clicks.  There's been a lot of discussion about
settings called things like TXDelay, but so far as I can tell (and
the manual confirms), the K3's TX delay is intended to protect
amplifier relays at the start of a transmission.  So long as you
don't run QSK, I would think that setting would have no influence on
key clicks after the rise of the first CW element.  True?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3(s) main oscillator calibration

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

From my take, it is "ham radio" therefore +/-1 Hz. should be good 
enough for most operations.  After all, the K3S resolution is 1 Hz., 
+/-1 count as I see it.   I can keep mine +/-2 or 3 Hz on most bands.


I use WWV with the radio in CW mode and CWT on, tune close to WWV and 
press SPOT.    If it settles on the WWV frequency that's good.  If it is 
off a few Hz, then I tweak the REF CAL up or down a few Hz until I get 
the accuracy I wish by repeating the process several times.  Still I 
find +/- 1 Hz is about it, even with the high stability TXCO and very 
adequate warm-up time of about 2 hrs.


If one needs something more accurate, then Don is correct, test 
equipment is the way to go.  And expect to spend big bucks for good 
quality equipment that IS traceable to NIST.   If the NIST document or 
calibration is more than 1 year old, the results will be questionable.


I wrote an article which was published in QST, Sept 2015.   It deals 
with "Transmit and Receive On Frequency".  It shows that digital 
readouts are just that, readouts,  and they are not frequency 
determining or measuring circuits.    And when it is accurate on one 
band it may not have the same accuracy on another band.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/6/2020 5:20 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
With the main K3 fine tuning at 1 Hz steps, I don't know that 0.1Hz or 
even 0.25Hz doppler shift will matter much in the final result.


My frequency counter is good to 10 exp-9 which equates to +/-0.1 Hz at 
the TCXO frequency, so the WWV method provides as good or better 
accuracy, even considering the doppler shift possibility.


The main problem is chasing the beat note down to a stable solid note. 
You usually can't truly get there, but you can get close enough that 
you hear about 10 or 20 seconds between peaks.  Close enough for me.


It can be quite expensive to obtain stability better than the K3S in 
an analog oscillator.  My HP8640B signal generator will do that, but 
it takes at least a 3 hour warmup before it becomes stable.  Yes, all 
the internal enclosures in my '8640 have covers with all the screws 
installed - that helps.  OK, that is 'old iron', but I am not going to 
spend several $10,000 for something better.  I have better things to 
do with my money, and no longer have access to modern lab quality 
equipment to achieve that kind of stability.


We have a ham band transceiver - not a precision lab instrument. As 
long as we can stay inside our ham bands, that is all that matters to 
me.  I would not put a carrier exactly on 7,000.00 kHz with any 
transceiver.


73,
Don W3FPR




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 with 2m internal transverter

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

While I use an external transverter with my K3S, I do not suggest using 
the K3 internal preamp.  The transverter has adequate gain and also a 
good low noise front end.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/5/2020 2:03 PM, Jim Miller wrote:

Helping a friend to try to get the most out of his 2m equipped K3
especially for EME.

Is it recommended to use the internal preamp when the internal
transverter is in use? I'm guessing "no" due to to 20db transverter RX
gain.

On page 21 of the P3 Owners Manual it describes the integration of the
K3/P3 wrt attenuator and preamp settings. Does the K3 and P3 similarly
communicate the additional 20db gain of the transverter and reflect
that in a downward push of the P3 noise display?

Thanks

Jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] Self-fusing liquid electrical tape

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I agree with Jim, K9YC on this.  Grounding is for lightning 
protection.   To be effective, it should be outside of the 
structure/house and be very low resistance.   And all driven grounds 
must be bonded back to the AC Mains ground.  This is per NEC.  Your 
equipment, your house, and your life may depend on it being done correctly.


Yes, the Cad-Weld fireworks are indeed impressive.   And when finished 
one has a connection that will survive reliably underground for years 
and years.   Where as a mechanical connection is only good for a few 
years and less if buried. Something about dissimilar metal chemical 
reaction.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/5/2020 1:07 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 6/5/2020 10:23 AM, Chris Waldrup wrote:
This is probably overkill for QRP but I wanted to do it right like we 
used to do in broadcast.


The primary purpose of grounding bonding has NOTHING to do with radio 
-- it's for LIGHTNNG PROTECTION!



On 6/5/2020 10:46 AM, Walter Underwood wrote:
> Cad-weld seems a easier than the other approach described. It is 
more robust against corrosion, plus it is fun.


Yes, it certainly is fun! I summoned my XYL and the neighbor's kid to 
watch. :)


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Self-fusing liquid electrical tape

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Just look at $11.00 per ground rod connection for Cad-Weld as compared 
to  $1.98 for a mechanical clamp.   Which do you think a ham will choose ?


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 6/5/2020 12:46 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:

Cad-weld seems a easier than the other approach described. It is more robust 
against corrosion, plus it is fun.

I just don’t see a downside. :-)

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)


On Jun 5, 2020, at 10:32 AM, Phil Kane  wrote:

On 6/5/2020 9:05 AM, Grant Youngman wrote:


Cad-weld isn’t expensive — $11-15 per weld depending on where you buy
the stuff.  Typically sold in kits of 6 one-shot crucibles, and
available for varying ground wire sizes on 1/2” or 5/8” ground rods.

Agreed, but how many of us would go through that exercise?

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Self-fusing liquid electrical tape

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Anyone that would desire to have a proper and reliable installation for 
connecting a conductor to a ground rod.    Me for one!


To that end, I've visited many ham stations where it seems there is a 
mish mash of equipment connected in a hap hazard manner.    I view this 
is far from good engineering practice and methods.  And then they often 
wonder why things don't work or don't work reliably.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 6/5/2020 12:32 PM, Phil Kane wrote:

On 6/5/2020 9:05 AM, Grant Youngman wrote:


Cad-weld isn’t expensive — $11-15 per weld depending on where you buy
the stuff.  Typically sold in kits of 6 one-shot crucibles, and
available for varying ground wire sizes on 1/2” or 5/8” ground rods.

Agreed, but how many of us would go through that exercise?

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Dead

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

You say you checked the "fuse" and it is OK.   In fact, there are two 
fuses.  If either has failed the amp won't power on.   Then check the 
voltage at the outlet from where the amp is powered.


If you don't know where to start looking,.if the above two items 
are OK, then I suggest sending an e-mail to tech support at Elecraft and 
ask for a RA.  Chances are the issue is beyond local repair, either by 
knowledge or test equipment and parts.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/5/2020 11:04 AM, Tom Berry wrote:
I was operating on FT8  20 meters for quite a long time with my KPA500 
running about 400 watts and heard a few pops (like something 
arching).  Heard it a few more times then the amp went off.


Now it will not power on.  No lights, nothing.  I checked the fuse and 
it is OK.


Can you tell me where to start looking?


Thanks

Tom AAA4VV

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Re: [Elecraft] FIXED--was NOT the feedline

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Weren't you taught not to whittle toward yourself and not to spit into 
the wind?   Neither works.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/4/2020 9:59 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
I have that same problem, maybe 1 in 10 or 2,0 I slice the cable or my 
hand... ;)


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 6/4/20 7:44 AM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
This is my default procedure, but every so often the knife slips when 
I'm removing it and I end up slicing into the cable jacket itself. 
Usually no big deal; cut it and pop on a new connector, but if it's 
on the antenna end it's not so trivial.


  - pjd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 On Behalf Of Dave ColeI always use 
Scotch 130, (self fusing tape), first, then Scotch 88.  I cut the 
tape down the long axis, and it opes up like a peanut, leaving no 
residue or old tape.


73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)


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Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

The Tentec 238 tuner does have some values of L and C components in the 
circuit when in the Bypass mode.  These are L1 which is 0.3uH and C7 & 
C8 which are 250 pf in series.   The tuner is designed for use between 
1.8 and 30 MHz.   Thus I would not advise using it as an antenna switch 
on 50 MHz and certainly not to resolve a match on 50 MHz.


You may find that adjustment in the ladder line length {just a couple of 
ft, more or less, for 6M}  will aid in the LDG tuner finding a better 
match with existing component values and parasitic capacitance.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 6/2/2020 10:53 AM, Mark Goldberg wrote:
I failed to mention, my antenna system is a 300 ft long horizontal 
loop fed by ladder line with a homebrew two core switchable 1:1 or 4:1 
Guanella current mode Balun. The Balun has a measured return loss of 
about 32 dB at 50 MHz with a 200 ohm resistive load. That was 
surprisingly good, but confirmed with a calibrated VNA. Yes, I spent 
some time with Jerry Sevick's book.


The antenna is not deluxe for 50 MHz, but it is all I have. It's just 
so happens that only small values are required in the tuner to match 
it, and the LDG tuner parasitic capacitance it too high even when in 
bypass mode. I expect it is difficult to build a physically large high 
power tuner and keep the parasitics down, so the Ten Tec may have 
similar issues. As I said, I know nothing about it. From Peter's most 
recent email, this may be the case.


73,

Mark
W7MLG

On Tue, Jun 2, 2020 at 8:26 AM Bob McGraw K4TAX <mailto:rmcg...@blomand.net>> wrote:


As a rule, if one needs a tuner to get a good match on 6M, I'd say
they need to look carefully at their antenna system.  My 6M yagi
shows less than 1.5:1 over the lower 2 MHz of the band, 50.0 -
52.0 MHz.  The lowest SWR occurs at 50.2 with a Z value of 42 ohms
and an X value of 0.0.  Of course higher gain antennas typically
have a bit less bandwidth, but still, the lower 1 MHz should be
totally usable without a tuner.

Besides, tuners only make the transmitter happy and the added feed
line loss due to SWR still remains.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/2/2020 1:09 AM, Mark Goldberg wrote:

I want to mention that my LDG AT-600Pro has a minimum capacitance
that is too high for a good match to my antenna on 6 meters.
Certainly seems like removing the Ten Tec tuner would be a good
thing to try. Can you open the Ten Tec tuner and use an IR
thermometer to monitor the components? I don't know anything
about it's construction. You could see them heating up.

Just running medium power of maybe 500W would slow things down
and let you see the SWR increasing before the amp trips. That
would confirm that something is heating up vs arcing.

73,

Mark
W7MLG


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Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

It is correct that there is no such thing as a breakdown voltage, as 
stated earlier. This becomes obvious since the units are given as V/m, 
which is represents Volts per meter, or Electric Field strength.


Also, unless one is measuring the field in between two plane parallel 
metallic plates, the Electric Field will, in general, not be uniform, 
I.e., the field strength (the amount of "pull" on an electron), will 
vary with position. This shape does matter, and sharply pointed emitters 
can cause breakdown at values considerably less than the maximum 
measured in a uniform field.


The Volts/meter relationship is also pressure-dependent, and this 
relationship goes nonlinear at low pressures (not enough charge 
carriers) following Paschen's law 
. It also varies with 
humidity and other contaminants, which usually increase arcing.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/2/2020 8:54 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:


The RMS voltage for 1000 watts into a perfect load is <250 volts. I 
suspect that Tony's 4,000 voltage limit is closer to what a quality 
PL-259 can actually handle. If the PL-259 is arcing, there is 
something very wrong with either the connector, the weatherproofing or 
the antenna.


John KK9A





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Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

As a rule, if one needs a tuner to get a good match on 6M, I'd say they 
need to look carefully at their antenna system.  My 6M yagi shows less 
than 1.5:1 over the lower 2 MHz of the band, 50.0 - 52.0 MHz.  The 
lowest SWR occurs at 50.2 with a Z value of 42 ohms and an X value of 
0.0.  Of course higher gain antennas typically have a bit less 
bandwidth, but still, the lower 1 MHz should be totally usable without a 
tuner.


Besides, tuners only make the transmitter happy and the added feed line 
loss due to SWR still remains.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/2/2020 1:09 AM, Mark Goldberg wrote:
I want to mention that my LDG AT-600Pro has a minimum capacitance that 
is too high for a good match to my antenna on 6 meters. Certainly 
seems like removing the Ten Tec tuner would be a good thing to try. 
Can you open the Ten Tec tuner and use an IR thermometer to monitor 
the components? I don't know anything about it's construction. You 
could see them heating up.


Just running medium power of maybe 500W would slow things down and let 
you see the SWR increasing before the amp trips. That would confirm 
that something is heating up vs arcing.


73,

Mark
W7MLG

On Mon, Jun 1, 2020 at 9:01 PM Bob McGraw K4TAX <mailto:rmcg...@blomand.net>> wrote:


Plus there is L1 which is 0.3uH in the circuit and C7 and C8 in the
circuit when in the bypass position.  This does not allow the tuner,
even in bypass mode, to work well as an antenna switch on 6M.

  The capacitors in question are not rated for the RF current
experienced under certain load Z conditions.  They heat, change
value,
and the SWR creeps up.  Allow them to cool and the SWR is back to the
starting point.    I usually tweaked mine such that the SWR
started off
a bit high, came down as I transmitted and if transmitting a bit
longer
the SWR increased.   Later I got tired of this and changed the
group of
disk ceramic caps to 470 pf Russian doorknob caps.  Problem solved.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/1/2020 10:08 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> his might be it, Peter. ! I've used (and loved) the Ten Tec 229 and
> 238 tuners, but some of their fixed capacitors are under-rated for
> power. This is fairly well known among Ten Tec users, so I read
about
> it somewhere and replaced those in my tuners with caps having
higher
> power ratings.

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Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Plus there is L1 which is 0.3uH in the circuit and C7 and C8 in the 
circuit when in the bypass position.  This does not allow the tuner, 
even in bypass mode, to work well as an antenna switch on 6M.


 The capacitors in question are not rated for the RF current 
experienced under certain load Z conditions.  They heat, change value, 
and the SWR creeps up.  Allow them to cool and the SWR is back to the 
starting point.    I usually tweaked mine such that the SWR started off 
a bit high, came down as I transmitted and if transmitting a bit longer 
the SWR increased.   Later I got tired of this and changed the group of 
disk ceramic caps to 470 pf Russian doorknob caps.  Problem solved.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/1/2020 10:08 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
his might be it, Peter. ! I've used (and loved) the Ten Tec 229 and 
238 tuners, but some of their fixed capacitors are under-rated for 
power. This is fairly well known among Ten Tec users, so I read about 
it somewhere and replaced those in my tuners with caps having higher 
power ratings. 


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Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I agree with Jim, K9YC  on these points.

** OCFD antennas are noted to have lots of common mode current issues.   
These are a chore to tame.


** Most commercial baluns or common mode chokes are poor designs, of 
inadequate material, designs copied from other poor designs but packed 
in a pretty box of different color, size, and shape with a high price.


One of the best applications for a 4:1 balun is with a single band 
folded dipole made of equal wire diameter or size. Depending on height 
above ground the feed point Z is between 200 and 300 ohms.  The use of a 
4:1 give an impedance of 50 to 75 ohms.    Any other usage of a 4:1 
balun is more of a compromise to a disaster.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/1/2020 9:41 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 6/1/2020 6:45 AM, Alan - G4GNX wrote:
I have a similar issue with ferrite 'balun' heating, although mostly 
tested on 40 metres. I'm using an OSCFD (Windom) which has a main 4:1 
balun at the feed point, but also has a sleeve 'balun' consisting of 
8 ferrites wrapped in a plastic sleeve, about 3 feet from the feed 
point. If I run the K3S at 100W, via the KPA500 in standby, then 
through the KAT500 tuner, I see no problems.


On increasing the power to 200W by using the KPA500 in Operate and 
about 10W drive from the K3S, during a SSB 'over' the temperature of 
the KPA500 rises and after a few minutes, the SWR readings on the 
KPA500 and KAT500 start to rise.


Alan,

What you describe basically a lousy common mode choke, applied to an 
antenna that, because it is so badly unbalanced, has a LOT common mode 
current. The primary function of such a choke is to prevent common 
mode noise picked up on that feedline from coupling to the antenna, 
and from there to the receiver. I don't know of a way to EFFECTIVELY 
choke such an antenna. The application of ANY choke to such an antenna 
is an unnatural act -- it does nothing useful.


I strongly suggest that you study the material on my website about how 
common mode chokes work. These concepts have been part of the ARRL 
Handbook and/or Antenna Book for nearly 10 years.


k9yc.com/publish.htm

The word "balun" is used to describe nearly a dozen very different 
things. What COULD work is a two winding transformer wound on a low 
loss ferrite toroid, like Fair-Rite #61 or #67 material. #61 will 
likely handle 100W from 160M to 10M without overheating. #67, which 
has much lower loss above about 17M, may be required at the 400W 
level, and would certainly be used at 1 kW and above.


Making the windings bifilar provides a capacitive path for common mode 
current, degrading its effectiveness. This is minimized by placing the 
windings on opposite sides of the toroidal core.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Based on my experience, balun power ratings are for MATCHED conditions.  
It is rare that hams use a balun in a matched condition.    Thus a 1:1 
balun should see 50 ohms on the input and 50 ohms on the output, while a 
4:1 balun should see 200 ohms on the output and 50 ohms on the input.   
In the case of a resonant folded dipole, a 4:1 balun is typically 
operating in a nearly matched condition.    All others combinations are 
unknown and random.


I run about 500 watts on all bands.  My baluns are rated at 5KW!   It 
takes 3 or 4 big hunkin' pieces of ferrite to attain this power level.   
My 6 meter balun is a 1/2 wavelength electrically of RG-213.  No ferrite!


Buy or build a balun of your choice.  Using an IR temperature gun, 
measure the ambient temperature of the core.  Run about 1/2 rated power 
carrier for 30 to 60 seconds.  Measure the temperature again.   If it is 
warm to hot, this is RF producing heat.   And likely continuing will 
produce core failure.   This is not a good balun for your application.


One of my baluns work between the output of my KAT500 and the balanced 
feed line connected to the center of a 256 ft wire.  That antenna works 
160M - 6M with zero issues.   Now, I do run a hybrid balun being a 4:1 
Guanella balun as a transformer, and it is fed with a 1:1 balun for 
common mode rejection.


Most single core, i.e. 2 or 3 cores stacked with 2 to 4 windings are not 
at all a proper balun design   A Guanella balun will have 2 cores with 2 
windings and then another 2 separate cores with another 2 windings.  
These are then wired to produce a 4:1 balun with good common mode 
rejection.    Most "factory" 4:1 baluns are poorly designed and built junk.


See https://www.dj0ip.de/balun-stuff/ for further references.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 6/1/2020 8:45 AM, Alan - G4GNX wrote:
I have a similar issue with ferrite 'balun' heating, although mostly 
tested on 40 metres. I'm using an OSCFD (Windom) which has a main 4:1 
balun at the feed point, but also has a sleeve 'balun' consisting of 8 
ferrites wrapped in a plastic sleeve, about 3 feet from the feed 
point. If I run the K3S at 100W, via the KPA500 in standby, then 
through the KAT500 tuner, I see no problems.


On increasing the power to 200W by using the KPA500 in Operate and 
about 10W drive from the K3S, during a SSB 'over' the temperature of 
the KPA500 rises and after a few minutes, the SWR readings on the 
KPA500 and KAT500 start to rise. One of the Elecraft guys actually 
very kindly went through my fault log and came to the conclusion that 
the fault is with the antenna/feeder and I agree with him. What is 
strange is that if I leave a solid carrier running at 200W, I can't 
easily reproduce the issue and I wonder if its something being 
affected by peak excursions with SSB?


When things do start to go wrong, I can usually perform a manual tune 
with the KAT500 and the fault will then not (mostly) be apparent.


Anyway, I'm in the process of replacing the entire feeder with 
Westflex 103 and much bigger ferrites. I will also replace the main 
balun which is a 400W device for a 1KW device, as I think that running 
the UK max of 400W may be pushing the spec of a 400W balun. Also, the 
balun itself or connections to it may be faulty.


The point now is that I have discovered some damage to the outer 
covering of the sleeve 'balun' which may be the result of ferrites 
overheating or may be the cause of movement of the ferrites thus 
causing instability. Either way, heftier devices seem to be the order 
of the day.


Although the KPA500 temperature rise is somewhat expected, I feel it's 
a bit higher over a short period than I would like and may be due to 
reflected power.


73,

Alan. G4GNX


-- Original Message --
From: "David Olean" 
To: "Peter Dougherty" 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 01/06/2020 13:25:18
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NOT the feedline (was KPA-1500 faulting on 6m; 
SWR issues)



Hello Peter

I suspect RFI as well. I do not have a KPA1500, so my advice is not 
worth much, but the fact that the fault only occurs when a signal is 
being radiated sends me a red flag.  I had a similar problem here 
with my SPE amplifier power output. I was measuring it on an LP-100A 
wattmeter.  It turns out that 1.8 MHz energy from the SPE amp 
radiated from my vertical antenna and  was getting into a new wire 
doublet antenna and coming back down the ladder line into the shack. 
The ladder line was about 7 inches from the power coupler for the 
LP-100A. RF caused the readings to go wacky and it looked like my 
amplifier was going postal! The problem was high rf fields next to 
the power meter coupler.


Ferrite balun heating can be seen with a VSWR meter if you set the 
power at some intermediate level, key the amp up with a steady 
carrier, and watch for VSWR creeping up.  Loose pins in coax can also 
be a problem. They can heat up and disconnect or start arcing. Those 
problems do not typically show VSWR creep. They happe

Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft IS shipping all of our amp models

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Likewise there seems to be a lot of pessimism when a product is in back order 
status.  If I really wanted a product, such as my K3S, there was a backlog of 
orders.   I placed the order and waited 3 months.  No regrets in any aspect. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On May 28, 2020, at 8:18 PM, John Evans  wrote:
> 
> An optimist believes we live in the best of all worlds.  A pessimist fears
> this is true.
> 
> John - n0hj
> 
>> On Thu, May 28, 2020 at 7:12 PM Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT <
>> kx...@coldrockshotbrooms.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Why do people always assume a dire future -- always the worst possible
>> outcome?
>> 
>> We all do this, and it's a bad habit.
>> 
>> I'm trying hard not to, and I've been a lot happier.
>> 
>> 73 -- Lynn
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Quiet Ductless HVAC System

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

And one must remember that most folks will spend the least amount of 
money necessary to get the HVAC system working or perhaps install a new 
system.  And most of these folks have no clue about RFI, but are only 
concerned if their abode is hot or cold, warm or comfortable.


As a purchasing manager I know once said "that's the best part we can 
buy for under a nickel".


73

Bob, K4TAX


You must remember that the parts that go in much of this equipment is 
supplied by the lowest bidder.


Realistically when you see the number of active hams who buy AC products 
vs the number sold you will realize it a very uphill battle. Very noisy 
led bulbs have been sold for how long? They are a known source too.


 When price is the major factor quality always suffer. You can't have 
both.





On 5/27/2020 6:39 PM, Steve via Elecraft wrote:
You must remember that the parts that go in much of this equipment is 
supplied by the lowest bidder. If a component can be left out even if 
its only a few pennies it will be left out. I was in the service 
business and owned a business for over 25 years doing installations. I 
was never asked about RF noise by a customer. Ever. I did however ask 
factory reps questions and most looked at me with deer in the 
headlight faces. I have been out of the business for ten years and 
suspect that the situation has not improved and perhaps gotten much 
worse.


Realistically when you see the number of active hams who buy AC 
products vs the number sold you will realize it a very uphill battle. 
Very noisy led bulbs have been sold for how long? They are a known 
source too.


It was a conscious decision to ignore this by the government because 
it fit in with the energy saving mandates. Its a case of the squeaky 
wheel getting greased. When price is the major factor quality always 
suffer. You can't have both. 


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Re: [Elecraft] Quiet Ductless HVAC System

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

My take on this is "prepare to do some noise mitigation yourself."   
Jim, K9YC, has several good papers dealing with noise reduction and 
methods to accomplish same.   In general, adding correct type ferrite 
chokes to the AC mains and the control lines is, in general, good 
starting point.


Most HVAC companies are typically not versed in RFI technology and I 
wouldn't expect them to be.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 5/27/2020 11:14 AM, Gary wrote:

How did you find one that would agree to that? The 6 I've talked with all said 
pass as soon as I brought the subject up

73,
Gary kk0sd

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Dave Cole
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2020 8:45 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Quiet Ductless HVAC System

Hi Albert,

Here are a few suggestions...  When I added my furnace, I made it part of the 
purchase contract that there was to be no new RFI.  This makes the vendor very 
careful.  Tell them it is a showstopper, and they will be responsible for RFI 
removal if RFI comes with the new purchase.  Get it in writing if possible.

Insist they call the manuafacturer and ask about RFI for the unit you are 
considering, and are there RFI kits for that unit, PRIOR to your purchase...

Be careful assuming brand and model numbers will remain RFI quiet over time.  
Vendors change parts, and circuits, within a fixed model number all the time... 
 What is RFI quiet today, may not be RFI quiet tomorrow...

Take measurements first, before the install, and after install.  Use this 
process:

https://www.nk7z.net/sdr-rfi-survey-p1/

It is part I of III in a series on using an SDR to model your RFI environment.  
Perform the tests, save the results, then run them all again after install...  
I run a full sweep once a year here, and keep the results...  Also see my March 
2020 article in CQ on this subject...

Good luck, and good for you for looking at this early!!!

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 5/27/20 4:09 AM, Albert Reynolds wrote:

Does anyone have suggestions for an RF quiet ductless, also  called a
"mini split" heat pump system. I am in need of a small (12000 BTU)
system for the ham shack. Comments from anyone who has used such a
system, or successfully mitigated RFI on a system would be
appreciated. Brand and model number would be highly appreciated.

   


Albert, N4AGG

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Re: [Elecraft] Reset Third-Hand KX3

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Rule #1 -  If it isn't broke, don' try to fix it.

Rule#2 -  See rule #1.

I agree with Don, a reset will wipe everything including calibrations 
and alignment parameters.  While the previous owner's information, 
frequencies, and etc. may not be of use to you, one can easily overwrite 
those values with the utility.


And as always, make a back-up of the radio configuration before you 
change anything.  Then after you make changes, make a back-up of your 
data.  The back-up files are each date and time stamped. That then 
becomes a good starting point for future reference.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 5/22/2020 12:07 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Tommy,

I would not recommend doing a Reset to Factory Defaults unless there 
is a problem.
That reset will wipe out calibration and the installed option as well 
as setting the menu items back to default information.


You can always go into the menu and set each entry of interest to you 
to its default or setting of your preference.  I would suggest you do 
not 'monkey' with the locked calibration settings.  The menu listing 
in the back of the manual indicates the default for each menu item.  
The menu is not gigantic or deep - unlike some other radios.


If you really want to do a reset, first save a configuration file 
using KX3 Utility.  After the reset, you can restore the configuration.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/22/2020 8:05 AM, Tommy Judson via Elecraft wrote:

Good Morning,

I’m in the process of purchasing a KX3 and will be the third owner.  
The seller suggested the radio be reset but not entirely back to 
factory defaults.


Never having owned an Elecraft radio I have no clue how to go about 
doing this.  Would someone please point me in the right direction to 
learn how this is done?


Thank you, Tommy

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Re: [Elecraft] An Unusual KPA-500 Failure - That Wasn’t ...

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I have installed a whole house surge protector on the main breaker 
panel.   Thus everything in the house is protected equally.


 I don't use any surge protection devices at any other locations. 
My Justification: more connections, more items = more problems.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 5/18/2020 12:15 PM, Lyn Norstad wrote:

Bob -

Having had to ship my 10 month old KPA500 back to Elecraft twice in its short 
life, I was fearing the worst when I started reading your post.

What a relief to hear the actual cause ... and I can well imagine it was doubly 
so for you!

73
Lyn, W0LEN


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob Witmer
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 11:31 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] An Unusual KPA-500 Failure - That Wasn’t ...

I thought the group might find a recent KPA-500 troubleshooting experience 
interesting - and possibly be of help with future troubleshooting efforts.

For reference, my station consists of a TS-890 followed by a KPA-500 and a 
KAT-500, that interfaces different wire antennas depending on the operating 
band.

One Friday night after dinner, I headed to the ham shack to check out 160M.  
Since it had been raining I needed to check the antenna SWR.  After completing 
a KAT-500 (KAT)  tuning cycle at low power, I had a new tuning solution and 
switched in the KPA-500 (KPA) for confirmation.  I started at low power and 
slowly increased the power level.  At around 100 watts output from the KPA I 
was rewarded with what I call the “Allen-Bradley” smell, a slight cloud of 
smoke and a KPA low voltage alarm!  I immediately cut power and tried to reset 
the KPA alarm but couldn’t by cycling the power off/on. So I unplugged the KPA 
from the AC power.  After reconnecting the power and turning the KPA on, the 
alarm was gone. I repeated the tuning process, with almost the same results 
except the smell and smoke were more noticeable.  At this point I took the KPA 
completely off line, disconnecting all control and RF connections, and raised 
the power out level of the TS-890 to 90 watts, which then confirmed normal 
operation via the KAT.  At this point I began to think about returning the KPA 
for repair and wondered how long it would take to get it back, considering 
COVID-19 issues.

For some reason I decided to try the KPA500 - KAT500 pair one more time.  This 
time I moved closer to the KPA500 to try to get a clearer idea of where the 
“smoke” was coming from.  I slowly raised the power one more time and the KPA 
shut down just like before, but this time I noticed the “smoke” was coming from 
what looked like the rear of the amp.  I moved the KPA and noticed the smell 
was still very strong - and at the rear of the KPA.  It was then I noticed that 
the AC line surge suppressor the KPA was plugged into, in a wall socket 
directly below the back of the operating table with the KPA, was the source of 
both the smell and “smoke”.  I bypassed the suppressor and was relieved when 
the KPA returned to normal operation.

Somehow, when the current draw through the suppressor reached a certain level, 
failing internal suppressor component(s) overheated and presented a line 
voltage drop to the KPA500 sufficient to trigger the internal low operating 
voltage alarm.  With the suppressor located directly behind and below the KPA, 
it seemed like the smell and smoke were coming from the KPA - and the KPA was 
failing since the KPA low voltage alarm activated.

So of course, always check to make sure the equipment you’re troubleshooting is 
actually “plugged-in” (following troubleshooting safety guidelines) - but also 
check to make sure any in-line power surge suppressors are working correctly.

73,

Bob,  W3RW
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Re: [Elecraft] New Astron Switching PS RFI?

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Almost nothing lasts or works forever.  Usually electrolytic caps dry out, 
their MFD value decreases.  Very easy and inexpensive repair.  

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On May 17, 2020, at 7:58 PM, Michael Walker  wrote:
> 
> I had 2 of them and they both went noisy after 15 years.
> 
> I suspect they have a re-capping in their future, but right now, they are
> in my electronics junk pile.
> 
> Mike va3mw
> 
> 
>> On Sun, May 17, 2020 at 6:50 PM Josh Fiden  wrote:
>> 
>> Have there been any design changes to SS-30M?
>> 
>> I have a pair that I’ve been using for 15+ years. Running 6m EME, a
>> demanding application, I’ve seen no RFI. Unlike some laptop adapters &
>> monitors that have come and gone. If they haven’t changed them, I’ve had
>> good success.
>> 
>> 73
>> Josh W6XU
>> 
>> Sent from my mobile device
>> 
 On May 17, 2020, at 2:24 PM, Tony  wrote:
>>> 
>>> the latest Astron switching power supplies
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3/K3s] RF Gain Control

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

In all instances, 160M, 80M, & 40M, I run 15 dB Attenuation. For 10M & 6M I run 
Pre 1.  RF gain is then adjusted per band as needed depending on band noise. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On May 17, 2020, at 5:30 PM, donov...@starpower.net wrote:
> 
> Hi John, 
> 
> 
> The K3/K3S "RF Gain" control doesn't control any RF stage at all... 
> It actually controls the gain of the 8.215 MHz IF amplifier immediately 
> following the 8.215 MHz roofing filters which then controls the 
> 8.215 MHz IF signal level feeding the 2nd mixer. 
> 
> 
> See the K3 RF Board schematic, page 4 of 4. The 8.215 MHz 
> IF amplifier is Q1. IF amplifier gain is controlled the front panel 
> "RF Gain" control (labelled as VIF Gain on the schematic) via U3. 
> 
> 
> This is why its so critically important to select the correct Preamp 
> setting (Preamp1, Preamp2 (in the K3S) or OFF) and proper attenuation 
> level because those are the only gain controls in the RF path of the 
> K3/K3S. If you select Prramp or attenuation incorrectly you've inserted 
> excessive signal levels into the roofing filters and IF amplifier. 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 73 
> Frank 
> W3LPL 
> 
> - Original Message -
> 
> From: "John Reilly"  
> To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2020 9:40:06 PM 
> Subject: [Elecraft] [K3/K3s] RF Gain Control 
> 
> Where in the K3/K3s Block Diagram is the RF Gain control located? We're 
> having discussions concerning whether is is better to reduce the RF 
> Gain, or turn on attenuation to increase dynamic range, especially on 
> 40m and below. 
> Thanks, 
> - 73, John, N0TA 
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Re: [Elecraft] New Astron Switching PS RFI?

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I have 2 of the Astron SS-30M supplies on my desk for my 2 stations.   I 
have observed no evidence of RFI issues.   I find them to be very 
reliable power supplies.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 5/17/2020 4:23 PM, Tony wrote:

All:

Has anyone tested the latest Astron switching power supplies for 
noise? The reviews I've read say that they produce no RFI.


Thinking about the Astron SS-30M for the K3S which is rated at 25 amps 
continuous duty.


Tony

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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with Split Operation on K3S

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Marv just confirmed justification for doing and keeping back-up 
configurations.   I do back-ups for each of piece of Elecraft equipment 
on a regular basis.   Same for the computer.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 5/16/2020 8:53 PM, marvwhee...@nwlink.com wrote:

Thanks to all that responded. I uploaded a previously saved configuration
and that solved the problem.

  


Marv

KG7V

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 Fault - follow up

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

You will need the KAT500 Utility to perform a reset to factory values.   
That software is a free download on the Elecraft site.


While you are at it, download all the various software's for each piece 
of equipment.  i.e.  K3, P3, KPA500, KAT500.  They allow you to save 
parameters, change parameters, update firmware, and reset to factory 
values.   And always make a backup after you make changes.  That way 
should things get screwy, you can go back to your previous values.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 5/16/2020 2:28 PM, Edward via Elecraft wrote:

All,

I tried to firmly seat all of the connectors.  No change.  I finally pulled 
them out and only used the keying cable (RCA to RCA).  No change. One thing I 
noticed is that the KAT 500 was giving me Power and SWR reading, but no 
amplification from the amplifier.   And if I had any more than 12w of drive 
power from the K3, the amp would not give me any reading at all. Dropping it 
back to under 12w, the Pwr/SWR readings would be visible again.

I decided to disconnect the antenna from the KAT 500 altogether and connected 
straight into the amp. Low and behold, I now have the amp working again!

Hence, the problem is with the KAT500 tuner.  I am thinking that a factory 
reset would do the trick. Question is, how do you reset a KAT 500 to factory 
default? The manual states to do it with a computer.  Any buttons I can push on 
the tuner itself for restoring the factory defaults?

Thanks,
Ed NI6S
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500problem - Half output power

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I wouldn’t run the KPA500 at half power. And 25 watts of drive is certainly 
more than mine requires to attain rated power, except on 6M where it requires 
25 watts.  

As to power output indicators, I used my Bird43 and a 500 watt element with a 
known good 50 ohm load.  I then calibrated the indications per the manual for 
my KPA500.   That’s when I did the ALC calibration and setup for each band. 

Sure works nice when everything is correct and correctly calibrated. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On May 16, 2020, at 12:25 PM, TL_Netvision  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello Elecrafters
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your time on this, & I hope to find you all in good health 
> 
> 
> 
> My setup is K3+KPA500+KAT500.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometime ago due to probably high SWR  (water in the Pl259 leading to
> KAT-500) the KPA-500 stopped after a loud noise (can't tell whether KPA or
> KAT) was heard. 
> 
> When I reset it & checked all bands into a dummy load (no tuner), It
> delivered half the regular output power on all bands. (25w in for appx. 150w
> out). 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if this means 1 side of the PA is gone,  or is there  some 3db
> pad connected permanently.
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas for test procedures? 
> 
> Also how safe (forbidden?) is it to operate the amp in this "half-power"
> condition?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance, 
> 
> 
> 
> Isaac, 4Z1TL
> 
> KPA SN 01090
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500: Bonehead Input Overload

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

That is a very good argument for having ALC active between the amp and 
radio.    It would have likely saved the amp.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 5/15/2020 6:12 PM, Andy Durbin wrote:

Well if it were mine I'd open it up and inspect everything between J3 pin 25 
and T1.  I would expect to find a well toasted resistor but I don't know the 
KPA500 well enough to know which one.

I think this is the third report I have seen on this reflector of a KPA500 
blown by accidental high power input since I built mine.You have my 
sympathy but it validates my philosophy of using proactive rather than reactive 
protection.

Please let us know what blew so we can learn from your experience.

73,
Andy, k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 Issues

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

What is the SWR?  If above the KAT500 set value it inhibits the amp from being 
keyed.  Check the KAT500 using the ATU utility. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On May 15, 2020, at 1:50 PM, Jack Brindle via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Check the cable connections, including making sure that none of the pins are 
> bent in the AuxIO connectors in both cables (K3S - KAT500, KAT500 - KPA500).
> Also, make sure that the PTT line is actually being asserted. The asterisk is 
> displayed when the Key In is asserted. If it isn’t displayed that means the 
> KPA is not seeing that input active. Also realize that when the KAT500 is in 
> tune mode it blocks the key line going to the KPA.
> 
> It is fairly common for someone to move something and the cable comes loose. 
> Be sure the screws are tightened down on the connectors and any adapters to 
> avoid this.
> 
> 73!
> Jack, W6FB
> 
> 
>> On May 15, 2020, at 11:07 AM, Edward via Elecraft  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I have the combo K3S/KAT500/KPA500 with all of the optional interconnection 
>> cables. 
>> 
>> I am not able to key the amp though it was working earlier. The asterisk 
>> does not appear in the display. 
>> 
>> I went through the menu and everything is set accordingly. The inhibit is 
>> disabled. 
>> 
>> Any help would be appreciated. 
>> 
>> 73,
>> Ed NI6S
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3/KX2 remote for FD

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

From ARRL - At its core, Field Day is a local event and an opportunity for 
local amateur radio clubs to showcase the skills, science and technologies that 
make radio communication such a wonderful hobby and a valuable public service.

I see nothing about this being a contest.  

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On May 14, 2020, at 1:12 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> On 5/14/2020 7:56 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
>> However it has become a "contest" to see who and what organization can 
>> accumulate the most points.  A contact is a contact, a multiplier is a 
>> mathematical term.It has no place in Field Day operation.
> 
> My first FD was 1956. It has ALWAYS been a contest. It was my first, and it 
> made me a contester!
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> Then W8FNI
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3/KX2 remote for FD

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I agree, specially on the first sentence.   I've been participating in 
FD since the very early '60's.  However it has become a "contest" to see 
who and what organization can accumulate the most points.  A contact is 
a contact, a multiplier is a mathematical term.    It has no place in 
Field Day operation.



73

Bob, K4TAX



On 5/14/2020 8:41 AM, Bob N3MNT wrote:

I have always seen Field Day as a way to practice/demonstrate the ability to
communicate under emergency conditions.  In the past those conditions were
assumed to be things like major storms or other natural disasters that
disrupted normal communications/power.  We have always made the assumption
that we would still be able to gather to accomplish this. This means that we
would have multiple people available to erect temporary antennas and set up
stations.   I see this year as just adding another hurdle to overcome in
demonstrating the ultimate goal of being able to communicate under a major
disaster/emergency.  Rather than opting out this year, we should accept the
new challenge and do what Hams do best innovate.





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Re: [Elecraft] KX3/KX2 remote for FD

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

With the current COVID-19 conditions, I'll be staying at home. No Field 
Day participation for me.  Many in our club feel the same way.  Too risky.


The objective of Field Day originally was to show and demonstrate 
capability of station operating under simulated conditions.  Thus no 
phones, no electricity, and no internet.  So with this, how does one 
expect to operate remote?


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 5/12/2020 5:33 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 5/12/2020 3:19 PM, Dan Presley wrote:

I was curious what folks might be doing for remote setups for field day


Speaking for myself as a genuine OF with some medical issues, my wife 
and I are distancing until we can get a known good vaccine. Our long 
time FD group consists entirely of OFs, and we made the decision more 
than a month ago not to do FD as a group. Wishing that everyone stays 
healthy, we urge others to operate FD from home. It's a great time to 
check out backup power.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S current draw relative to KAT3A settings

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I just ran quick tests on my K3S on all bands, first with the KAT3a 
bypassed and then with the KAT3a allowed to resolve a match.  Both cases 
were using a 50 dummy load and external power meter to measure the power 
into the load.  The current values were from the K3S display.


In all cases I found that the current was less with the KAT3a in bypass 
just as expected.   There is always some loss through any antenna 
tuner.  Some more than others and it will vary by band. The L network 
used by Elecraft is one of the more efficient and lower loss ATU designs.


Specifically:  100 watts indicated into dummy load via external power 
meter.


for 40M the current was 15.3 amps {KAT3a bypassed}  and 15.75 amps with 
KAT3a active/AUTO and resolved a match


for 20M the current was 18.5 amps {KAT3a bypassed} and 17.26 amps with 
KAT3a active/AUTO and resolved a match.


As concluded from my tests, the radio will draw different amounts of 
current on different bands for the same given and measured power 
output.   Seems normal to me.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 5/12/2020 1:31 PM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:

I've had a few exchanges with support on this, but as Covid-19 is imposing
some new burdens on the shop, I thought I might ask the larger community
for input as well.

I've been troubleshooting seemingly anomalous power consumption when
transmitting. My K3S pulls way more current on 20m than on 40m for the same
input signal and output power.

After some experimentation, I found that the input current is related to
whether the KAT3A is engaged, and which values of C and L are selected.
The lowest power consumption comes from the highest value for C and the
lowest value for L, and the highest power consumption comes from the lowest
C and highest L.  Here's a chart of what I found going into a dummy load,
manually setting C and L values:


min C/max L max C/min L bypass not-inst
40m, 12w 3.55A 2.23A 3.4A 3.3A
20m, 12w 3.70A 1.99A 3.1A 3.0A





40m, 13w 11.5A 4.65A 7.3A 7.2A
20m, 13w 15A 5.63A 6.9A 6.8A
If that chart doesn't render well on the list, here's a screen shot of it:
https://imgur.com/GF4IUIy

(This was transmitting a 1500Hz tone, SSB at almost 100% modulation with
14v supplied, and is the value reported by the K3s, though my ammeter
reports a similar value.  I get similar results with FT8 going into an
actual antenna instead of a dummy load.)

So I guess the question is this: is it expected to see such a large
variance in power consumption for the same output power based on the values
of C and L for the KAT3A?

Nick



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Re: [Elecraft] Connecting XLR 1/4 Inch Mic Cable to K3S

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

For years the pro audio industry has connected balanced mikes to 
unbalanced inputs with excellent results.  No adapters, transformers, 
matching units, or unique grounding schemes are required.  Just correct 
wiring as I described earlier.   It is just two connectors, one XLR for 
the mike and one 8 pin Foster connector for the radio and a length of 2 
conductor shielded mike cable.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 5/11/2020 10:41 PM, Jim Rhodes wrote:
If you are terribly concerned about connecting a balanced mic to an 
unbalanced input there are plenty of commercial adapters out ther, 
some of them even cost more than $10.



On Mon, May 11, 2020 at 10:31 PM Nr4c <mailto:n...@widomaker.com>> wrote:


Agreed, they are not balanced.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On May 11, 2020, at 10:14 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX
mailto:rmcg...@blomand.net>> wrote:
>
>  I don't find that either the front or rear MIC inputs are
balanced inputs.
>
> 73
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>> On 5/11/2020 9:02 PM, Nr4c wrote:
>> 1/4 to 1/8 TRS and plug in rear mic jack.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ...nr4c. bill
>>
>>
>>>> On May 11, 2020, at 5:34 PM, Tony mailto:d...@optonline.net>> wrote:
>>>
>>> All:
>>>
>>> I'd like to connect an XLR mic cable that has a 1/4 inch TRS
plug to my K3S. It seems the only way to do that is wire a female
1/4 inch TRS to an 8-pin mic connector.
>>>
>>> It would be easier to use a 1/4 to 1/8th inch adapter and
connect through the rear mic input, but I don't believe it
accommodates balanced mics?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Tony
>>>
>>>
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--
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j...@rhodesend.net <mailto:j...@rhodesend.net>

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Re: [Elecraft] Connecting XLR 1/4 Inch Mic Cable to K3S

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

 I don't find that either the front or rear MIC inputs are balanced 
inputs.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 5/11/2020 9:02 PM, Nr4c wrote:

1/4 to 1/8 TRS and plug in rear mic jack.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill



On May 11, 2020, at 5:34 PM, Tony  wrote:

All:

I'd like to connect an XLR mic cable that has a 1/4 inch TRS plug to my K3S. It 
seems the only way to do that is wire a female 1/4 inch TRS to an 8-pin mic 
connector.

It would be easier to use a 1/4 to 1/8th inch adapter and connect through the 
rear mic input, but I don't believe it accommodates balanced mics?

Thanks,

Tony


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Re: [Elecraft] Connecting XLR 1/4 Inch Mic Cable to K3S

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I just wired an XLR to the 8 pin MIC connector via a 2 conductor 
shielded cable and be done with it.   I hate adapters due to the high 
likelyhood of intermittent connections.


XLR pin #1 to 8 pin #7  Shield

XLR pin #2 to 8 pin #1  mic hi

XLR pin #3 to 8 pin #8  mic lo

Be sure BIAS is turned off if using a dynamic mike.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 5/11/2020 4:32 PM, Tony wrote:

All:

I'd like to connect an XLR mic cable that has a 1/4 inch TRS plug to 
my K3S. It seems the only way to do that is wire a female 1/4 inch TRS 
to an 8-pin mic connector.


It would be easier to use a 1/4 to 1/8th inch adapter and connect 
through the rear mic input, but I don't believe it accommodates 
balanced mics?


Thanks,

Tony


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Re: [Elecraft] Upper limits of KPA500?

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

As long as one stays within the duty cycle times limits, no problem.

Do note that some antenna system which are lower impedance will require 
the amp to draw more current for a given amount of power. And it does 
vary from band to band.    The attached EXCEL spreadsheet should be of 
interest regarding lower power operation.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 5/6/2020 1:03 PM, Tom Azlin W7SUA wrote:

Hi Dave,

I run around 100-150 watts out of my KPA500 using 5-7 watts from my K3 
with the KPA500 hitting 70C using Olivia during nets. I assume could 
go to 250 but never needed that much power. Does not seem to be a 
problem with temps above 70c. Also run up to 500w PEP using SSB when 
needed.


I did hear Wayne say run full power RTTY with no fear.

73, tom w7sua





On 5/3/2020 1:26 PM, Dave Cole wrote:

Hello,

I just got the new MMSSTV software, and will be running a bit of 
SSTV. SSTV is 100% duty cycle.


Initial testing here indicates no power level is safe...  At 150 
watts the KPA500 reaches 70C pretty fast, in under two minutes, and 
70C is my upper limit for testing...  At 500 watts it reaches 70C in 
about the same time...


Can I assume the amp is not the most efficient thing in the world at 
200 watts?


If the KPA500 can't deal with 100% duty cycle, for two minutes, how 
does the K3 deal with 100 watts for two minutes, at 100% duty cycle?



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Re: [Elecraft] Upper limits of KPA500?

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

That would be "Intermittent Commercial and Amateur Service".

73

Bob, K4TAX



On 5/4/2020 1:24 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 5/4/2020 6:53 AM, John Simmons wrote:
Nowadays manufacturers use 'ICAS'. One even specs their amp for '100% 
duty cycle ICAS'. ICAS=Intermittent Continuous Amateur Service'. 
Gobbledegook!





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Re: [Elecraft] OT: The Colpitts mystery

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

As a 17 year old, I rode the train {pulled by a coal fired locomotive} 
from Fulton, KY to Memphis, TN.  I had to walk about 8 blocks to the 
Post Office building where the FCC administered the tests.  I took the 4 
elements and passed all 4 of them earning me a First Class Radio 
Telephone license on the first try.  I recall many much older folks 
seemingly to be struggling to take the tests.  Some commented "what's 
this kid doing in here?"  Seems some had taken it several times without 
success.     I spent the night with an old maid school teacher and 
relative in Memphis.  I took my General class license test the next 
morning in the same place.     The CW receiving portion, in the concrete 
basement with metal desks and metal chairs, sounded like marbles being 
dropped into a galvanized wash tub.   So was that a T followed by an E 
or was that and H?  Passed that one too.  Then I rode the bus from 
Memphis back to my home in Martin TN.  Yes there were several circuits 
to identify, and some to draw, as I recall.   That was 60 years ago.  
Glad I had the experiences.


73

Bob, K4TAX



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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supplies and Voltage drop

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

One point brought to my attention by Jack Brindle, has to do with the 
indicated voltage on the K3S display.  The manual page 57, ADC REF makes 
it clear as to the calibration procedure and that if the ADC REF is not 
correct, then display values, such as the rig's supply voltage may not 
indicate correctly.


I did check mine and found it to be in slight error.  Once corrected 
specifically following the procedure, things fell in line correctly.    
You will need a DVM to accurately measure the voltage at pin #2 at the 
ACC connector.   This must be done  "*while the ADC REF parameter is 
being viewed in the menu*.".


Hopes this information helps.

73

Bob, K4TAX





On 4/25/2020 10:21 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
{I changed the topic for good reason.}    Was " K3S poor CW keying 
further investigation"


Lee brings up a good point with regard to power supply terminals.

If you have one of those power supplies that have the terminals with a 
set screw in the side, you are limited to the number or wires or wire 
size which can be correctly inserted.


Here is what I did to remedy the situation.    I obtained two 10-32 x 
2" brass screws from the hardware store.  I got 4 nuts, 2 for each 
screw, 4 flat washers, 2 for each screw and two wing nuts.   I then 
cut the head off of each screw and filed a flat spot about 1/2 " long 
and deep enough to removed the threads. This modified screw was then 
inserted into the power supply terminal so that the flat spot aligned 
with the set screw. Tighten the set screw.  Then run two of the nuts 
on the protruding screw, just up to the power supply connector, but 
not tight against it,  and the second nut against the first to form a 
jam-nut.  Add a flat washer, add all the ring terminals you wish, and 
then a flat washer and finally the wing nut.   Do the same for the 
other terminal.   Now you have plenty of stud length and have not 
actually modified your power supply.  Some fear making modifications 
for fear of loosing warranty coverage.


As a bonus, should you desire to remove the power supply, loosen the 
set screws on the power supply connector and pull out the entire 
bolt/stud assembly, ring terminals and wires, leaving them attached.   
Only one set screw to loosen removes the entire assembly.  Now how 
neat is that?


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 4/25/2020 9:50 PM, Leroy Buller wrote:

Chuck, I am late to this discussion so I might be saying things that
already been said.  I found the same issue.  Voltage down to 11.5 
volts on
any ps I used.  So, I found the issue was power pole connectors that 
were
to light.  Look for power pole connectors that handle 30 amps or so.  
Power

poles come in different amperage with the same shell.  Don't get fooled
with that.  I did.

Then I limited the cable to 24 inches.  #10 wire and higher current 
power

poles.  Voltage dropped fro. 13.8 to 13.1 at 100 watts .

Somebody said that DC systems act significantly to resistance. Lower the
resistance to the smallest number is what I tried to do.

Some ps have funky connectors o. The back, and might have to jigger 
those
to bolts and nuts.  I opted to use sleeves crimped on the end of the 
wire,
soldered, and then stuffed in the connector.   The set screws were 
replace

with machine bolts and tighten but you cannot over tighten because the
threads might strip.


Lee K0WA

O

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Re: [Elecraft] RX Ant K3 Preamp vs External Preamp

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

The internal preamp in my K3S does an excellent job on 6 meters.   If I 
decided to use an external preamp, it would be located at the antenna 
feed point with suitable switching and protection.


I suppose the question, what bands do you perceive you need a preamp?  
And what is your no signal band noise on the bands of concern?


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 4/26/2020 6:32 PM, Rich wrote:

I am interested in finding out from the experts

Is it best to use the K3 internal pre-amp or add an external pre-amp 
to the RX antenna system?


Thanks

Rich

K3RWN



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Re: [Elecraft] Poor CW note more testing and a question (rather long-ish...)

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I do use ALC between my KPA500 and my K3S.   I do find that the ALC 
setup and calibration is critical for correct operation.  As to the 
effects of it being set incorrectly, I can't say.   I do know it must be 
done for every band and the amp ALC will be displayed on my K3S.   The 
amp ALC THR value on my amp runs from 145 to 120 depending on band.   
One value does not work for all bands.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 4/26/2020 3:37 PM, Andy Durbin wrote:

"I got the report that my CW sounds just fine until the amp is in line. Then it is described as 
"some kind of artifact... like a bell sound... like a delay." This is consistent with the other 
report I had been getting of a "ringing, bell-like" note to my CW. This is most apparent at 30 wpm, 
as I would be running in a contest."

I'm probably well out of my depth here but could this be caused by incorrectly 
configured ALC feedback from the KPA500 to the rig?   That should be easy to 
test by simply disconnecting the AUX cables and running the CW test again.

73,
Andy, k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] Voltage drop in DX Power to K3

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Pete:  Sorry I read some of your numbers incorrectly.  A cable with 0.3 
ohms resistance and 20 amps of current will have a voltage drop of 20 x 
0.3 for 6 volts.  This can't be correct. More like 20 x 0.03 for 1.2 
volts.   Still too much.


Don't try to measure resistance with a DVM, as point contact and lead 
resistance will be too great.  Just measure voltage drop across the 
various components which will be more accurate. That's what is important 
anyway.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 4/26/2020 11:34 AM, N4ZR wrote:
Aside from  my decimal point problems  The cable measured 0.3 
ohms, with my DMM, but in retrospect, its measurement could not have 
been correct. However, the measurement on the 4005i is about right, 
because that was done by comparing the voltages at its input and 
output, and was at 100 watts key-down. The 4005i's *voltage drop* at 
100 watts was 0.08 *volts*, which strikes me as not bad at all.


73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at <http://reversebeacon.net>, now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

On 4/26/2020 12:11 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
The power cable at 0.03 ohms on each side,  a total of 0.06 ohms 
resistance.  The 4005i, per his measurements, has 0.08 ohms 
resistance.   The power distribution strip contributes more than 50% 
of the voltage drop.   Actually more than the power cables.


The power cable contributes  1.2 volts of drop.   The 4005i 
contributes an added 1.6 volts of drop for a total of 2.8 volts.


The calculation is simple:    E = I x R  current multiplied by 
amps equal voltage.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 4/26/2020 10:53 AM, Leroy Buller wrote:

40 inches of power cable.  In my experiences,  that could be an issue
depending on the gauge of the wire.  I used a long cable 12 gauge 
and had
issues.  Went to 24 inches number 10 gauge and voltage drop 
significantly
improved.  The resustace does not have to be large to cause a 
voltage  drop


Lee

On Sun, Apr 26, 2020, 9:47 AM N4ZR  wrote:


I've had an e-mail exchange with West Mountain Radio.  Measured the
voltage drop inside the 4005i at only .08 volts at 100 watts key down.
My power cable from the 4500i to the K3 measures 0.3 ohms on each
conductor, which at 20 amps should only yield a 1.2 volt drop, 
right?  I

don't know where the other volt plus of drop is coming from. The cable
is 40 inches long, and only minor shortening is possible. It is about
the largest wire that will fit in the Powerpoles on both the K3 and 
the

4005i.

Suggestions welcome

--
73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at <http://reversebeacon.net>, now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

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Re: [Elecraft] Voltage drop in DX Power to K3

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Oh well, I need another cup of coffee.    I'll try to do better proof 
reading.  Can't blame that one on auto-correct!


Cutting to the chase., measure from the power supply POS 
terminal to the ACC 12V on the K3 radio.    That is the total voltage 
drop in the POS DC path.  Then do the same for the NEG terminal of the 
power supply to the ground terminal on the radio. That is the voltage 
drop on the NEG DC path.  Add those two together and one has the total 
voltage drop.  Now, step by step, isolate where each amount of voltage 
drop occurs.


Anytime over 0.5 volts total voltage drop occurs, something needs 
attention.   Thus DC Pos should be less than 0.25 volt drop and DC Neg 
should be less than 0.25 volts.  For a total of 0.5 volts drop at the 
radio.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 4/26/2020 11:22 AM, Adrian wrote:

I got a good chuckle out of that one Bob, happens to me often


take 2 >
The calculation is simple:    E = I x R  current multiplied by 
resistance equals the voltage.





The calculation is simple:    E = I x R  current multiplied by 
amps equal voltage.


73

Bob, K4TAX






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Re: [Elecraft] Voltage drop in DX Power to K3

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

The power cable at 0.03 ohms on each side,  a total of 0.06 ohms 
resistance.  The 4005i, per his measurements, has 0.08 ohms 
resistance.   The power distribution strip contributes more than 50% of 
the voltage drop.   Actually more than the power cables.


The power cable contributes  1.2 volts of drop.   The 4005i contributes 
an added 1.6 volts of drop for a total of 2.8 volts.


The calculation is simple:    E = I x R  current multiplied by amps 
equal voltage.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 4/26/2020 10:53 AM, Leroy Buller wrote:

40 inches of power cable.  In my experiences,  that could be an issue
depending on the gauge of the wire.  I used a long cable 12 gauge and had
issues.  Went to 24 inches number 10 gauge and voltage drop significantly
improved.  The resustace does not have to be large to cause a voltage  drop

Lee

On Sun, Apr 26, 2020, 9:47 AM N4ZR  wrote:


I've had an e-mail exchange with West Mountain Radio.  Measured the
voltage drop inside the 4005i at only .08 volts at 100 watts key down.
My power cable from the 4500i to the K3 measures 0.3 ohms on each
conductor, which at 20 amps should only yield a 1.2 volt drop, right?  I
don't know where the other volt plus of drop is coming from.  The cable
is 40 inches long, and only minor shortening is possible.  It is about
the largest wire that will fit in the Powerpoles on both the K3 and the
4005i.

Suggestions welcome

--
73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at , now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

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[Elecraft] Power Supplies and Voltage drop

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

{I changed the topic for good reason.}    Was " K3S poor CW keying 
further investigation"


Lee brings up a good point with regard to power supply terminals.

If you have one of those power supplies that have the terminals with a 
set screw in the side, you are limited to the number or wires or wire 
size which can be correctly inserted.


Here is what I did to remedy the situation.    I obtained two 10-32 x 2" 
brass screws from the hardware store.  I got 4 nuts, 2 for each screw, 4 
flat washers, 2 for each screw and two wing nuts.   I then cut the head 
off of each screw and filed a flat spot about 1/2 " long and deep enough 
to removed the threads. This modified screw was then inserted into the 
power supply terminal so that the flat spot aligned with the set screw. 
Tighten the set screw.  Then run two of the nuts on the protruding 
screw, just up to the power supply connector, but not tight against it,  
and the second nut against the first to form a jam-nut.  Add a flat 
washer, add all the ring terminals you wish, and then a flat washer and 
finally the wing nut.   Do the same for the other terminal.   Now you 
have plenty of stud length and have not actually modified your power 
supply.  Some fear making modifications for fear of loosing warranty 
coverage.


As a bonus, should you desire to remove the power supply, loosen the set 
screws on the power supply connector and pull out the entire bolt/stud 
assembly, ring terminals and wires, leaving them attached.   Only one 
set screw to loosen removes the entire assembly.  Now how neat is that?


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 4/25/2020 9:50 PM, Leroy Buller wrote:

Chuck, I am late to this discussion so I might be saying things that
already been said.  I found the same issue.  Voltage down to 11.5 volts on
any ps I used.  So, I found the issue was power pole connectors that were
to light.  Look for power pole connectors that handle 30 amps or so.  Power
poles come in different amperage with the same shell.  Don't get fooled
with that.  I did.

Then I limited the cable to 24 inches.  #10 wire and higher current power
poles.  Voltage dropped fro. 13.8 to 13.1 at 100 watts .

Somebody said that DC systems act significantly to resistance.   Lower the
resistance to the smallest number is what I tried to do.

Some ps have funky connectors o. The back, and might have to jigger those
to bolts and nuts.  I opted to use sleeves crimped on the end of the wire,
soldered, and then stuffed in the connector.   The set screws were replace
with machine bolts and tighten but you cannot over tighten because the
threads might strip.


Lee K0WA

O


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S poor CW keying further investigation

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Change the connectors on the power supply to accommodate several ring 
type connectors.   Use 1" long   #10 bolts, nuts, flat washers and 
insulating washers which are easy to find at your local hardware store 
and are very easy to use and replace.  Then you can connect 8 to 10 
pieces of equipment to one power supply.


Remember, we are ham radio operators and that is what we've always 
done.   But as I have done, with two stations, I have two power supplies.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 4/25/2020 10:42 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Solder each power supply lead to a short length of #10 wire.  Insulate 
the connection well.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/25/2020 11:12 AM, Ron Manfredi wrote:
Fewer power supplies (meaning the switching type) have actual 
terminal bolts to use with ring connectors.  If the supply doesn't 
have that type of connector, then what alternatives are there to 
being able to use one supply in a station that has more than one high 
current rig,  (even if they are not used at the same time) since the 
connectors on most of these supplies will take at most only one 10-12 
gauge cable?


Ron   WA2EIO

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S poor CW keying further investigation

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I took off the original connectors and replaced them with suitable #10 
bolts, nuts, insulating washers and flat washers. The point, if the 
supply doesn't have the connectors you need, then don't buy it!     We 
are hams and hams have always made things work they way needed and as 
they should for the purpose.


73

Bob, K4TAX.

On 4/25/2020 10:12 AM, Ron Manfredi wrote:
Fewer power supplies (meaning the switching type) have actual terminal 
bolts to use with ring connectors.  If the supply doesn't have that 
type of connector, then what alternatives are there to being able to 
use one supply in a station that has more than one high current rig,  
(even if they are not used at the same time) since the connectors on 
most of these supplies will take at most only one 10-12 gauge cable?


Ron   WA2EIO


On 4/25/2020 10:56 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

Jim et al:

Thank you for confirming  exactly what I've written and suggested.

TO ALLPLEASE do not use power strips to supply DC to your 
radio from your power supply.   ALWAYS connect the radio direct to 
the power supply terminals.    The power pole and DC distributions 
strips are ok for LED lightning and such but NEVER for anything 
drawing over about 2 amps.   I don't care what the manufacturer says 
they are "rated" for.    E = I x R.    Every connections adds 
resistance.    Do the math.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 4/25/2020 9:32 AM, Jim Rhodes wrote:
I had been using a power pole strip to power everything. After 
seeing some discussion on this topic some time ago I found that in 
the string of 3 power pole connections in my setup at the time I was 
seeing around a 1 volt drop in the voltage on the K3 metering 
between receive and 100 watts keydown. That voltage drop was 
confirmed by my VOM so I wired the rig directly to the supply and 
the voltage drop was less than 0.25 volts. That is the way my rigs 
and VHF/UHF amps will be connected from now on with only a fuse 
inline. The low current stuff will stay on the power pole strip 
where they do just fine lighting up lights and stuff.


On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 09:16 Don Schroder <mailto:donandde...@hotmail.com>> wrote:


    Bob,

    Is it safe to run my K2 using Anderson Power Pole connections,
    and/or RigRunner equipment?

    For my info, what is the reason for NOT using them?

    I’m rewiring, and I want to do it right!

    Gunny, KE0PVQ

    Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
    Windows 10

    From: Gmail<mailto:anyone1...@gmail.com 
<mailto:anyone1...@gmail.com>>

    Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 9:03 AM
    To: Bob McGraw K4TAX<mailto:rmcg...@blomand.net
    <mailto:rmcg...@blomand.net>>
    Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
<mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net><mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
    <mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>>
    Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S poor CW keying further investigation

    Nuts, just measure the drop between radio and power supply see if
    it is reasonable. Mine is 0.25 volts when transmitting.  I run
    14.0 out of supply.
    Ray
    W8LYJ

    Sent from my iPad

    > On Apr 25, 2020, at 07:48, Bob McGraw K4TAX mailto:rmcg...@blomand.net>> wrote:
    >
    > As to the RigRunner power pole strip.PUT IT IN THE
    TRASH where it belongs.    NEVER NEVER NEVER use a power
    distribution strip to power a 100 watt radio.   ALWAYS connect the
    radio direct to the power supply terminals.   NO exceptions!
    >
    > 73
    >
    > Bob, K4TAX
    >
    >
    >> On 4/25/2020 7:13 AM, Chuck Chandler wrote:
    >> After more checking, I suspect the internal 100W amp is the
    common factor
    >> in the poor keying characteristics I'm seeing and hearing about
    from my
    >> rig.  I am trying to determine if my power supply is doing it's
    job.
    >>
    >> I'm using a TenTec 963 switching supply rated at 25A
    continuous.  At rest
    >> the K3S panel display shows 13.6V, with full power key down it
    dips to 11.5
    >> or so.  This seems like a lot.  I'm running the power cable 
thru a

    >> RigRunner Powerpole strip.  If I can dig out another power
    supply from the
    >> packed boxes I can wire the K3S directly to the supply.
    >>
    >> Is 11.5V at key down enough to cause the slow rise time being
    reported?
    >>
    >> 73 de Chuck, WS1L
    >>
    >
    > __
    > Elecraft mailing list
    > Home:
https://eur04.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fmailman.qth.net%2Fmailman%2Flistinfo%2Felecraft&data=02%7C01%7C%7C851d0737e47443117ae408d7e9216b51%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637234202046704357&sdata=ungsv%2Fp%2BttMdFv1pen3cIlx6vdo6lgKCjXn4vvBnIgI%3D

Re: [Elecraft] K3S poor CW keying further investigation

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Jim et al:

Thank you for confirming  exactly what I've written and suggested.

TO ALLPLEASE do not use power strips to supply DC to your radio 
from your power supply.   ALWAYS connect the radio direct to the power 
supply terminals.    The power pole and DC distributions strips are ok 
for LED lightning and such but NEVER for anything drawing over about 2 
amps.   I don't care what the manufacturer says they are "rated" for.    
E = I x R.    Every connections adds resistance.    Do the math.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 4/25/2020 9:32 AM, Jim Rhodes wrote:
I had been using a power pole strip to power everything. After seeing 
some discussion on this topic some time ago I found that in the string 
of 3 power pole connections in my setup at the time I was seeing 
around a 1 volt drop in the voltage on the K3 metering between receive 
and 100 watts keydown. That voltage drop was confirmed by my VOM so I 
wired the rig directly to the supply and the voltage drop was less 
than 0.25 volts. That is the way my rigs and VHF/UHF amps will be 
connected from now on with only a fuse inline. The low current stuff 
will stay on the power pole strip where they do just fine lighting up 
lights and stuff.


On Sat, Apr 25, 2020, 09:16 Don Schroder <mailto:donandde...@hotmail.com>> wrote:


Bob,

Is it safe to run my K2 using Anderson Power Pole connections,
and/or RigRunner equipment?

For my info, what is the reason for NOT using them?

I’m rewiring, and I want to do it right!

Gunny, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
Windows 10

From: Gmail<mailto:anyone1...@gmail.com <mailto:anyone1...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 9:03 AM
To: Bob McGraw K4TAX<mailto:rmcg...@blomand.net
<mailto:rmcg...@blomand.net>>
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
<mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net><mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
<mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net>>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S poor CW keying further investigation

Nuts, just measure the drop between radio and power supply see if
it is reasonable. Mine is 0.25 volts when transmitting.  I run
14.0 out of supply.
    Ray
    W8LYJ

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 25, 2020, at 07:48, Bob McGraw K4TAX mailto:rmcg...@blomand.net>> wrote:
>
> As to the RigRunner power pole strip.PUT IT IN THE
TRASH where it belongs.    NEVER NEVER NEVER use a power
distribution strip to power a 100 watt radio.   ALWAYS connect the
radio direct to the power supply terminals.   NO exceptions!
>
> 73
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
>> On 4/25/2020 7:13 AM, Chuck Chandler wrote:
>> After more checking, I suspect the internal 100W amp is the
common factor
>> in the poor keying characteristics I'm seeing and hearing about
from my
>> rig.  I am trying to determine if my power supply is doing it's
job.
>>
>> I'm using a TenTec 963 switching supply rated at 25A
continuous.  At rest
>> the K3S panel display shows 13.6V, with full power key down it
dips to 11.5
>> or so.  This seems like a lot.  I'm running the power cable thru a
>> RigRunner Powerpole strip.  If I can dig out another power
supply from the
>> packed boxes I can wire the K3S directly to the supply.
>>
>> Is 11.5V at key down enough to cause the slow rise time being
reported?
>>
>> 73 de Chuck, WS1L
>>
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S poor CW keying further investigation

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Gunny et al:

The issue with power distribution strips for DC is resistance. Every 
contact or connection in the path adds some value of resistance.  Using 
Ohms law, where E = IR, we see that more resistance = more voltage 
drop.  This includes the resistance of the DC power cable and any 
contact arrangements in the path. Ideally, there should be no voltage 
change at the radio between receive and transmit.


I have found these power strips may be "rated" for 20 amps, but they 
will always add some value of resistance at every contact point.  I do 
not recommend using any  model, brand or make DC power strip to supply 
DC to a radio.  Thus I always connect the radio direct to the power 
supply terminals.    I always suggest using proper size ring terminals, 
or PowerPole connectors which are properly crimped using a correct 
crimping tool.   A crimping tool is not pliers or the like, which if 
used, I refer to "mash on" connections.   I also sweat solder mine after 
crimping as well.   The crimp plus solder method is not recommended by 
the airline industry or NASA.  I doubt if my radios will be "flying off 
of the desk" or being launched into space any time in my lifetime.  HI  HI


On DC Cables.   Usually #12 AWG wire and a length of 3 ft or less is 
suitable for 100 watt radios.   If it is necessary to have longer DC 
power cables, then I suggest using #10 AWG for lengths of over 3 ft but 
less than 10 ft.   If you need power cables over 10 ft, I'd consider 
changing my installation.   The reason is that larger cables are 
difficult to use, move, and attach connectors reliably behind a radio.


So to answer you question "is it safe" yes, but there are better 
ways to handle DC power distribution.


Clean and stable DC at the radio is the objective.

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 4/25/2020 9:15 AM, Don Schroder wrote:


Bob,

Is it safe to run my K2 using Anderson Power Pole connections, and/or 
RigRunner equipment?


For my info, what is the reason for NOT using them?

I’m rewiring, and I want to do it right!

Gunny, KE0PVQ

Sent from Mail  for 
Windows 10




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Re: [Elecraft] K3S poor CW keying further investigation

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

As to the RigRunner power pole strip.PUT IT IN THE TRASH where 
it belongs.    NEVER NEVER NEVER use a power distribution strip to power 
a 100 watt radio.   ALWAYS connect the radio direct to the power supply 
terminals.   NO exceptions!


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 4/25/2020 7:13 AM, Chuck Chandler wrote:

After more checking, I suspect the internal 100W amp is the common factor
in the poor keying characteristics I'm seeing and hearing about from my
rig.  I am trying to determine if my power supply is doing it's job.

I'm using a TenTec 963 switching supply rated at 25A continuous.  At rest
the K3S panel display shows 13.6V, with full power key down it dips to 11.5
or so.  This seems like a lot.  I'm running the power cable thru a
RigRunner Powerpole strip.  If I can dig out another power supply from the
packed boxes I can wire the K3S directly to the supply.

Is 11.5V at key down enough to cause the slow rise time being reported?

73 de Chuck, WS1L



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Re: [Elecraft] About my capacitor failure (etc.) issue:

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I've always put a bit of heat sink compound on the rectifier unit before 
mounting it to the bottom plate.    I've found several power supplies 
where the bridge rectifier assembly failed and upon removal, there was 
no heat sink compound.   Add a new bridge assembly and some heat sink 
compound resolved the issues.   Never had one come back.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 4/24/2020 10:50 PM, Martin Sole wrote:
I can add perhaps another data point on the rectifier matter. Years 
back my employer, one of the largest ground to air radio manufacturers 
was having failures with their mainstay transmitter, a 50w carrier AM 
unit. It had a large toroidal  transformer and a packaged rectifier. 
The rectifier was bolted to the steel sub chassis and all was fine in 
regular intermittent service but  in ATIS service the transmitter runs 
essentially continuous, so about 160-180 PEP, and rectifiers were 
failing.


Investigation showed that the steel chassis was not 100% flat and the 
contact surface of the rectifier was compromised. The fix was to 
insert a (really) flat aluminium bar under the rectifier and bolt that 
to the chassis. The bar did much of the heat sinking and had many more 
contact patches with the steel sub chassis. Even paint ridges can be a 
source of reduced contact leading to overheating of the rectifier 
package and those things really do need to shift some heat. A good way 
to think of it is like you would a PA transistor in a 100 watt 
amplifier, we appreciate how well they need to be bolted to a heat 
sink and your rectifier package wants very similar assessment.


It's not so much the current that causes failure rather the heat is 
not being dissipated properly from the smaller package.


Martin, HS0ZED



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Re: [Elecraft] Latest on the new home for my K3...

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I just label mine coax feeds with my P-Touch.  Just read what is on the 
label.


160M loop, 160M dipole,  75M dipole, VHF/UHF vertical, 6M yagi..

73

Bob, K4TAX

On 4/23/2020 2:22 PM, Charlie T wrote:

Also, you can buy multi-colored electrical tape at the typical home stores.
I use that to color code antennas by band (s), polarity & directionality.
The colors closest to the connector is/are the band or bands with the wrap
farthest from the connector one of four possibilities:
Beam Vertical, beam horizontal, omni-vertical or omni horizontal.

And yes I often have to look at the chart of what means what, but then I
know exactly what antenna feed I've got in my hand.

73, Charlie k3ICH

  
  


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S poor CW

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

That's not what makes my CW poor.   And I've found nothing to make it 
any better.   I just need software that sends what I'm thinking.  But 
then, at age 77, that would be about 5 WPM or so.


I use either single lever or dual lever paddles with my K3S. I've not 
observed anything related to K3S poor CW other than the operator.


73

Bob, K4TAX



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Re: [Elecraft] Urgent Chrome Update

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I updated my Windows 10 machines this morning.

They show:

Google Chrome is up to date
Version 81.0.4044.113 (Official Build) (64-bit)

73
Bob, K4TAX


On 4/21/2020 9:01 AM, Kevin Cozens wrote:

On 2020-04-21 8:19 a.m., Lyn Norstad wrote:
If you haven't already installed the latest update, suggest you do so 
ASAP.



Link to article below.


That looks like old news. The article talks about version 81 of 
Chrome. On my Linux machine I already have version 83 installed.



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Re: [Elecraft] Power supply for KS

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Just adjust the voltage to 14.5 to 14.8 no load, usually via an internal 
adjustment, and be done with it.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 4/20/2020 2:59 PM, Richard Donner wrote:

Hi Ken
Thanks for the info.
I am  not in a rush yet.   I noticed that the voltage is 13.4.. Maybe a
little higher might be better.  Not sure on the last point.
I will check what else they make
TU   73
Richard


On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 12:51 PM Ken Winterling  wrote:


Richard,

I use an IOTA DLS-55 SMPS power supply (
https://www.iotaengineering.com/dls55.htm).  It provides 55 amps, doesn’t
produce RFI, is audibly quiet, and rugged.  The dimensions are 9.7" x 6.7"
x 3.4" and the weight is 5.0 lbs.  Mine is on 24/7/365.  IOTA also makes
them in other output voltages and currents.

Ken
WA2LBI


On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 15:21 Richard Donner 
wrote:


I need  to get a new power supply for my upcoming K4 and accessories
before
my present 40 year old supply goes belly up.
I want reliability and no fussing , fixing or modifying  things. Any
recommendations.
I heard that some of the old brands are not what they used to be.
Thanks,
Richard   wa6kyr


--

Ken
WA2LBI

Sent from one of my mobile devices


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Re: [Elecraft] Power supply for KS

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I'm using the Astron SS-30M for my station.  Actually I have 2 of them 
on the desk, one for the K3S and accessories and the other one for 
another brand of radio and accessories.  I have found they are reliable, 
quiet and no RFI issue between 160M and 1296 MHz, including 144 MHz, 432 
MHz.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 4/20/2020 2:20 PM, Richard Donner wrote:

I need  to get a new power supply for my upcoming K4 and accessories before
my present 40 year old supply goes belly up.
I want reliability and no fussing , fixing or modifying  things. Any
recommendations.
I heard that some of the old brands are not what they used to be.
Thanks,
Richard   wa6kyr
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT4

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Per the manual, the KAT3A internal tuner for the K3S will match a SWR 
range of 10:1 with a 100 watt power rating.  {page 79}  And it will 
match a 20:1 SWR range with a 10 watt power rating.   I've never 
encountered any of my crazy antennas that it wouldn't match.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 4/20/2020 8:35 AM, Charlie T wrote:

Well this MAY be a valid question, since I believe for example, the IC-7300 and/or  
IC-7610 have an "emergency" mode where the power is cut back to 50 watts and 
the allowable tuner's SWR range is extended from its normal full power mismatch 
capability.
If I remember correctly, its only 3:1 at 100 W, but will match an "emergency" 
use antenna if you have to.

10: 1 capability DOES put some hefty restraints on an internal tuner.

73, Charlie k3ICH




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of David Bunte
Sent: Monday, April 20, 2020 9:03 AM
To: Charles Sells 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT4

Charles -

I don't "know" what the power handling capabilities are, but think I can safely assume 
that if it is in the K4 it can handle the power of the K4. I trust that Wayne, Eric, or someone 
else who "knows" the answer will chime in when they are able.

73 de Dave - K9FN

On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 8:25 AM Charles Sells 
wrote:


I can see from the literature that is on the website that the KAT4 ATU
will handle a 10:1 matching range but don’t see what the power
handling capabilities are.

Anyone know?

73
Charles
W4PPP

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Re: [Elecraft] About my capacitor failure (etc.) issue:

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I had a ham mention to me that this power supply blew up.  He was somewhat 
annoyed when I ask if anyone was injured in the explosion.  

Folks, for us trying to assist with technical issues, please give complete and 
accurate descriptions.  You will get better answers. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 19, 2020, at 10:33 PM, Jim Rhodes  wrote:
> 
> Or sometimes, just to get your attention, they will short out then
> explosively go open with a bang. The is usually no doubt figuring out which
> component is bad.
> 
>> On Sun, Apr 19, 2020, 19:56 Christopher Hoover  wrote:
>> 
>> opens in my limited experience.
>> 
>>> On Sun, Apr 19, 2020 at 4:26 PM Adrian  wrote:
>>> 
>>> When you say 'blow' are you saying it short circuits internally or open
>>> circuits internally due to the event  ?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Adrian Fewster
>>> 
>>> On 20/4/20 8:07 am, Christopher Hoover wrote:
 You might want to replace the bridge rectifier in that new 35A power
>>> supply.
 
 Yep, right out of the box.
 
 At some point, Astron started shipping RS-35A's with a 25A bridge
 rectifier.   They paralleled two out of four of the 25A diodes twice
>> over
 to make, supposedly, a pair of 50A diodes for center-tapped full-wave
 rectification.  That's not good engineering practice as the diodes in
>>> each
 pair will not share current equally because of differences in Vf and
 tempco. Once one blow, the other will blow shortly after.
 
 After I fixed my own RS-35A with this problem, I've helped several
>> other
 hams fix this same problem in theirs.  Not a random sample, as this is
>>> just
 folks on my local machine and in local clubs.
 
 You can get a 50A bridge in the same package for under $3.
 
 Perhaps Astron has fixed the problem since 
 
 73 de AI6KG  -ch
 
 
 
 
 On Thu, Apr 16, 2020 at 10:28 AM Ray Albers 
>> wrote:
 
> Many to all who posted/responded to my recent post about an
>> electrolytic
> capacitor failure in my power supply.  Lots of very interesting
>> reading
> about peoples' industry experiences - thank you!
> 
> Several have pointed out that using a 20A supply with my K3/100 is
>>> pushing
> close to (or over!) the limit.  Even though I am measuring just 16A at
>>> the
> power level I'm running (and not running anything but the K3 on this
> supply) I agree that I'm skirting the edges. So even though I've been
> getting away with it for a long time, this morning I ordered a 35A
>>> supply.
> I'll probably sleep better.
> 
> 73
> Ray K2HYD
> 
> <
> 
>>> 
>> https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=icon
> Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> <
> 
>>> 
>> https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=link
> <#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
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Re: [Elecraft] Some K4 updates from the engineering department

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Yep, got that experience last year at the Huntsville Hamfest.  The K4 was being 
controlled wirelessly from an iPad.  Darn slick too.  

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 19, 2020, at 4:43 PM, David Gilbert  wrote:
> 
> 
> That was already demonstrated by Elecraft in what I believe was their first 
> video of the K4 in action at one of the trade shows. I'm sure you can still 
> find it on YouTube somewhere.
> 
> Dave   AB7E
> 
> 
> 
>> On 4/19/2020 1:10 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
>> When I read about the touch controls, I suddenly had an image in my mind of 
>> a small touch tablet on the desk that had all the controls on it that were 
>> on the K4 display.
>> Kind of a touch panel Kpod...
>> 
>> Jack BMW Motorcycles
>> Chuck KE9UW
>> c-haw...@illinois.edu
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KATxxx Remote Tuner

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I agree. Match the antenna, whatever the Z may be, to the feed line.   This is 
most efficiently done at the antenna feed-point.   

However with good loss coax on HF, matching at the transmitter end is easier 
and less complex and less expensive.  

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 19, 2020, at 4:13 PM, W2xj  wrote:
> 
> You can get an AT-615B from Array Solutions now and do this. I put 10 in a 
> club station for our various wire arrays. They do everything you need.
> 
> BTW I disagree about this 50 Ohm antenna thing. In my world of commercial 
> high powered broadcasting 30 MHz and under, there are almost never resonant, 
> matched 50 ohm arrays.  
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Apr 19, 2020, at 8:41 AM, Richard Thorne  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Eric/Wayne,
>> 
>> Has there been any work done for a potential dedicated remote antenna tuner?
>> 
>> A remote tuner that could handle 500 or 1500 watts to match up with amps 
>> power wise (Or just a barefoot K3/K4). Maybe a black box between the LAN on 
>> the K4 or ACC on the K3 so control signals could be sent to the tuner via 
>> the coax.
>> 
>> I’m a firm believer in 50 ohm matched antennas, but if a tuner is required 
>> it needs to be at the feed point.
>> 
>> Rich - N5ZC
>> Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] Electrolytic Capacitor failure

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I have always been taught and thus have a concern when power supplies of 
excessive capacity are used for any type of service. If the wiring, in 
this case,  between the power supply and the radio is #12 or #14 of any 
length typically supplied by radio companies, should a short occur in 
the power cable, it is likely the power supply will deliver full 
current.  That will quickly melt the insulation on the power cable and 
could cause a fire before the power supply goes into current limit.


Now at the same time, each power cable could be fused at the supply to 
limit the amount of current the supply can drive into the cable.   I 
have to say I don't like this idea as the in-line fuse adds a 
significant amount of resistance and will impact the stability or degree 
of regulation of the voltage at the radio under a dynamic changing load 
such as SSB or CW.


All of this is no different than when one uses a battery for their 
radio.  In auto installations, for that reason, it is highly recommended 
that a fuse or circuit breaker be located at or very near the 
battery.    Same applies here where the supply is capable of delivering 
very high amperage.   I realize power supplies of this nature have over 
current protection.   However, 70 amps through #14 wire will will 
produce lots of heat and smoke amazingly fast.


The correct solution is not so simple in one sense of the word. The 
better solution is to use properly rated supplies for the required 
load.   For that very reason, I have two 30 amp CCS rated supplies on my 
desk.  One feeds the Elecraft 100 watt transceiver while the other feeds 
the Tentec Eagle 100 watt transceiver.


All of my supplies have both voltage and current meters and they are in 
a position I can see them when I turn them on.  With supplies which do 
not have meters, when one turns them on, you never know in advance and 
get what they deliver.  In my case, I observe the meters BEFORE turning 
on a radio.  On more than one occasion this has saved a radio due to a 
power supply regulation failure.  Dumping 24 to 32  volts into a $3000 
radios is not very pretty.   Oh yes, the supplies do have OVP, Over 
Voltage Protection, but I've seen this fail as well and I've repaired 
several supplies where this did fail.   And one doesn't know it has 
failed until the voltage goes to maximum value.   Its too late then to 
find out the OVP circuit has failed.   A meter would have prevented 
radio and accessory equipment damage.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 4/17/2020 12:28 PM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
I also use an Astron RS-70 for my K3Ss. Like you, mine was not 
purchased for this purpose. It is under my desk so the physical size 
is not an issue and I have no worries about overloading it.


John KK9A


Barry w2up at comcast.net

I got a kick out of "big hulking supply," too.  I have an RS-70 on my 
K3.  It
used to power a lot more stuff, but since I downsized my station, it 
loafs
along.  Definitely overkill, but it sits under the desk, out of the 
way, so
why not?  Oh yeah, my keyer's on it, too, and still doesn't get warm, 
even

at QRQ :-)

Barry W2UP

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Re: [Elecraft] display scratches

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

A wet finger and Ipana toothpaste was always my approach and solution.  

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 15, 2020, at 5:47 PM, Tom & Barb Valosin  wrote:
> 
> Back in the "olden days" of my Ham experience, licensed 1963, on a high 
> school students nearly non-existent budget, we used gentle pressure of a 
> clean soft bristled tooth brush and Ipana toothpaste. Sometimes several 
> applications were needed but it did work pretty well on the EICO, HeathKit, 
> RadioShack and my Hammarlund HQ-180A. GENTLE-GENTLE PRESSURE.
> 
> Tom, WB2KLD
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 High SWR

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I've used this source for Bird elements and dummy loads with very good 
success.   Although most may be "used" they are guaranteed and he has a 
good return policy if needed.


Here is an example of a Bird 100 watt dummy load for $50.00 
DB4303B W/N-Male Connector (NOT  SMALLER DB4303 or G)   For an 
additional  $5.00 you can get the N to UHF adapter.

https://www.nm3e.com/loadSampler.htm#LoadSampler

I have no interest in the company or person, just a paying customer.  I 
offer this as another suggestion.


73

Bob, K4TAX



**

On 4/13/2020 12:21 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:

If you want to build a dummy load, I recommend the Oak Hills Research RFL-100 
kit for $50 (http://www.ohr.com/rfl100.htm). I took pictures while I was 
building mine. You can see those in this blog post.

https://observer.wunderwood.org/2016/12/31/building-a-dummy-load/

wunder
Walter Underwood
wun...@wunderwood.org
http://observer.wunderwood.org/  (my blog)


On Apr 13, 2020, at 10:02 AM, Chris Pinholster via Elecraft 
 wrote:

I recently moved and set up the same temporary Butternut vertical as I used in 
my previous restricted HOA location. (When this virus stuff is over and I can 
get help, a small tower and a decent antenna will be erected).

The K3 is factory built and does not have an ATU. I get a 99 high swr reading 
on every band the antenna is tuned for, I replaced coax and connectors three 
times. My Rig Expert analyzer shows swr below 2 on the two bands I wish to use, 
40m and 20m. In Tune the external P3000 shows swr below 2, however the K3 still 
shows 99.

I’ve looked through the archives and I can’t find the answer I was looking for. 
(one that didn’t require sending the radio back to the factory). I am hoping 
for an answer involving pilot error and an easy fix. The movers didn’t handle 
the radio, I white glove delivered it to the new house myself.

I don’t own a dummy load yet, having sold everything but the K3 when I went to 
an HOA restrictive community for five years.

Any help would be appreciated.

Chris Pinholster
k4...@mac.com



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Re: [Elecraft] Power can be set only to 12W on 100W version

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Make sure the KP3A is active via the Menu. 


Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 12, 2020, at 11:51 AM, Erwin Witt - DK5EW  wrote:
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [microHAM] Line Out Suddenly drops

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I use my computer to run several ham digital applications. I use the same 
computer to play music when doing other stuff. I use my computer to edit sound 
and video files.   The many applications I use do change various items, values, 
and settings. 

It is easy to determine what settings are affected and what their values should 
be for digits modes.  Write them down or make screen captures and print them 
for future reference.  

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 12, 2020, at 11:06 AM, Gary Hunt via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> There has to be another application changing the actual Window's audio 
> levels.  Document what those levels are in Sound Devices Manager when all is 
> working correctly vs when not.Also, I'm not sure what the upside is for 
> adding the MicrokeyerII to the equation. The K3S is capable of FT8 with no 
> additional interface. That was why I updated my K3 after a lightning strike 
> took out the MicroKeyerII.
> 73 
> Gary KC9EE 
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
> 
>  On Sat, Apr 11, 2020 at 1:16 PM, Pete W1RM wrote:   The 
> K3S works just fine on FT modes.  I had my line level set for 11 but
> today I had to crank my line level way up to get the same output level.
> I've made no changes that I'm aware of.  My Line out goes to the micro Keyer
> II
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions as to why and how to fix?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using a micro Keyer II with software version 9.2.2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pete, W1RM
> 
> w...@comcast.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
> Groups.io Links: You receive all messages sent to this group.
> 
> View/Reply Online (#19356): https://groups.io/g/microHAM/message/19356
> Mute This Topic: https://groups.io/mt/72950102/383090
> Group Owner: microham+ow...@groups.io
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> -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT3A Question

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

My 6M yagi shows a 5.3:1 SWR as indicated on my K3S on 28.3MHz with the 
ATU in Bypass mode.   When the KAT3A ATU  in the radio resolves a match, 
the indicated SWR indicated is 1.1:1 on the radio.


Using the same antenna but using my KAT500 ATU the best SWR resolved is 
1.6:1 as indicated on the radio.


Now my antenna analyzer on 28.3 MHz with my 6M yagi connected shows and 
SWR of 7.5:1, a Z value of 16.6 ohms, and R value of 7.3 ohms and the X 
value of 14.7.


That same antenna on the analyzer at 50.2MHz shows the SWR at 1.2:1, Z 
at 39.9, R at 40.0 and Z at 0.0


My conclusion:  although the SWR values may be indicating acceptable 
values, the 6 meter Yagi operated on 10 meters would make a very lousy 
antenna.   You'd be much better off to use an 80 meter dipole or better 
yet, just a 10 meter dipole.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 4/11/2020 4:06 PM, John Stengrevics wrote:

My 6 meter antenna reads an SWR of 10:1 on 10 meters.  The KAT3A specs suggest 
it can tune that degree of mismatch.  Is it reasonable to think that the KAT3A 
could match my antenna well enough for 10 meters?

Thanks & 73,

John
WA1EAZ
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 WSJTX Split

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

In the F2 Setup Menu for WSJT-X change the SPLIT Function to NONE.   
Then set the Radio for SPLIT mode.  That way you can manually adjust VFO 
A for RX and then set VFO B for the TX frequency.    Just keep the audio 
tone above 1200 Hz for TX.


  Resolves the problem

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 4/10/2020 4:43 PM, vk4tux wrote:

I recieved this email from Japan ;

"I decode you FT8 on 1840kHz that I send the JPG file to you.
JAs are working split RX 1840kHz and TX 1908kHz.
Please CQ JA on 1840kHz and RX 1908kHz if possible.

The 160m frequency in Japan,
   1810-1825kHz and 1907.5-1912.5kHz

DATE   Sunrise (GMT) in JA3
Apr 07:  20:34Z
  
We hope to see you on 160m soon.

TKS 73
Mas JA3FYC"

I tried this, however on enable TX  the VFO A and B become the same
frequency on TX from wsjtx.
I have cat ptt and cat control enabled, with rig split set.

If I use the mic to key etc, the split remains, however something about wstx
causes the VFO's to match on TX losing the split?

vk4tux




--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA 500

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I try and spend the time to recover OLD PL-259 connectors.  I have some 
which I've owned for 30 to 40 years.  They are ugly, tarnished, and may 
have phenolic insulatorsbut are darn good connectors.    When I 
encounter a bad or connector, I usually chop the connector off with 
about 1" of cable remaining and toss it in a box.  Speaking of which, 
I'd say there are 10 to 15 pieces of RG-8 type cable in my junk cable 
box that I could recover today.  Worthwhile project.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 4/10/2020 12:19 PM, Buck wrote:
A vendor at Dayton told me *all* are made in China, even the ones 
marked Amphenol.


k4ia, Buck
K3s# 11497
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

On 4/10/2020 12:43 PM, Irwin Darack wrote:

Agreed. Many people buy the cheap ones made in Chinaand they fail.

Irwin KD3TB

On Fri, Apr 10, 2020 at 12:28 PM Jim Brown 
wrote:


On 4/10/2020 8:45 AM, Irwin Darack wrote:

In my experience, coax connectors, barrel connectors, etc. are always

fail
points when there is a sudden increase in SWR as power is 
increased. They

oxidize over time and sometimes just reconnecting or replacing is the

first

step before taking the amp apart.


If this is happening, I'd suspect 1) the connectors have gotten wet or
2) the are JUNK connectors. If they aren't labeled "Amphenol," they're
JUNK.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA 500

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

My first question is "what does it do on a dummy load?"  Sounds like 
something related to a bad or questionable jumper cable, loose connector 
or bad connectors.   I find many of today's connectors have machining 
tolerance errors and more so, have only "good looking" plating.  While 
in fact, many of these are poor quality.


I find that PL-259 connectors must be mated correctly in that the body 
of the connector has 2 small triangle shaped protrusions from the body 
of the connector that must be mated with the notches on the SO-239 
connector.   Failure to do this will allow the connector to loosen under 
use.   And then the shell of the connector must be tightened a bit more 
than finger tight.   I keep a 4" pair of Channel Locks on the desk to 
help remove and tighten connectors.   If not done so, the heating and 
cooling of the connector will allow it to loosen and not make good contact.


Regarding the KPA500 temperature:  With my amp this morning { S/N 3519 
Firmware 01.54 }  at turn on 18C,  I then held it at 500 watts carrier 
output into a 50 ohm dummy load.  At 50C fan on 1 speed, at 55C fan on 2 
speed.   This took about 210 seconds (3.5 minutes) from cold start to 
55C on 80M into the dummy load. Other bands are less efficient and one 
could expect a faster temperature rise in less time.  It does vary from 
band to band and antenna load to load.  I did not observe any change in 
SWR indication, either on the amp LED display or my Bird 43 between the 
amp output and the dummy load.


Hope this helps.

73

Bob, K4TAX


On 4/10/2020 6:26 AM, Alan - G4GNX wrote:


I have a strange fault a couple of times recently, where the SWR 
starts to increase during the time of a single 'over'. I've been using 
the K3S set at 100W out, via the KPA500 (in standby) and the KAT500 
tuner, without any problem, but after I've switched the linear to 
Operate and driving it to 200W, the SWR creeps up. I don't think it's 
an antenna issue, but a possible heat problem with the KPA500. I 
watched the temperature display on the KPA500 and initially on Standby 
it shows about 38 degrees C. After transmitting at 200W the 
temperature slowly rises above 60 degrees C, but the fan doesn't cut 
in. Does anyone know if this is normal behavior and what temperatures 
I should expect to see? I have tested the fan via the Menu function 
and it works as expected.


73,

Alan. G4GNX

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Re: [Elecraft] sdr play and K3S

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I’ve used the RSP-1a with HDSDR.  I had to set the calibration for overall and 
then for each mode. Some values were + and some - .  Also I found my SDR Play 
RSP-1a does drift noticeably.  

Finall tossed the thing in the drawer and purchased a P3.  Much more 
satisfactory.  

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 9, 2020, at 8:28 PM, Don Sayler  wrote:
> 
> Hi Everyone.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been trying to get my SDRPlay (w/ SdrUno) to work with the IF output of
> my K3S.
> 
> I've got OmniRig set up, so the K3S and SdrUno interact properly. Well,
> almost.
> 
> 
> 
> There seems to be an offset between the K3S frequency and the SdrUno
> frequency. For example, I dial in WWV at 10 MHz on the K3S, and SdrUno hears
> the signal at ~9.875 MHz.
> 
> On 80m, this offset is around 117KHz.  I've tried the setting the External
> Converter offsets, that didn't help.
> 
> 
> 
> In SdrPlay, I do have the IF Output Frequency set to 8125000 Hz and it is
> enabled. I've tried adjusting this value a little, and it didn't seem to
> help.
> 
> I am aware of some of the limitations of SdrUno compared to other software,
> but this is the one that I'm used to. I may switch to another one at some
> point.
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas? I looked through the K3S config settings, and nothing jumped out
> at me.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 73,
> 
> Don W7OXR
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] fails on 30m only THANKS TO TAX !!!

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

One basic rule from the TAX man.more crap = more problems.   
Always has been, always will be.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 4/7/2020 11:07 PM, Bill Steffey NY9H wrote:
I wiggled all connections & conections,  then I took a small 50ohm 
load and inserted it at the few points from the radio thru my  TopTen 
relay setup    2 radios by two amps to 6 ants ( 5 ants & 1 dummy 
load).  The culprit was my big palstar auto tuner while off , was NOT 
in bypass.  With that set properly all is good. Hopefully the only 
screwup made while reconfiguring my station my stay at home project.


stay safe Jim


bill/3


On 4/7/2020 7:59 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/7/2020 12:43 PM, Bill Steffey NY9H wrote:

Bob prompted what was my next step ..one short jumper to the load..


Expeditioners that do lots of portable setups have repeatedly 
preached that when anything goes wrong in a radio system to ALWAYS 
suspect a bad piece of coax, and usually a bad or poorly installed 
connector.


Back in the days when I was doing lots of live recording and sound 
reinforcement gigs, it was mic cables. A standard test was to plug a 
mic into the mixer with the cable(s) to test, listen on headphones 
with the gain up, and "rattle" both ends and the cable itself to 
expose any faults. To test coax cables, I'd do something equivalent 
with low power into a dummy load and watching SWR at the rig.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] TX Calibration fails on 30m only

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I’ve found that one should use a 12” to 18” jumper of known good condition and 
quality.  Use this jumper to connect the dummy load direct to the radio. No 
switches, and no tuners in bypass mode.  

The dummy load should be 50 ohms +/- 5 (thats 10%)  ohms and be resistive.  
Light bulbs and soldered up resistors and the like,  aren’t resistive, meaning 
no reactance.   Don’t take what’s written on the label as fact!  They change!  
Measure them with an ohm meter and antenna bridge at several points from 1.8 
MHz to 54 MHz.  Anything greater than 1.1 to 1 is out of tolerance.  

Run TX Gain cal on all bands.  Your results are only as accurate as your 
procedure and test equipment.  

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 7, 2020, at 10:59 AM, Bill Steffey NY9H  wrote:
> 
> thought it good day to do a tx calibration.
> 
> I don't very often use 30 meters..and today the calib quits at 30 meters 
> saying  too high for calibration   4.1 swr...
> 
> All other bands indicate swr of 1.1 //  except 10mHz...
> 
> 
> I looked and the 10mHz low pass filter is shared with 14mHZ... and 20 looks 
> ok. Don't know if the problem is in the tuner while in "BYPASS " for the 
> test, or elsewhere.   Any help ???  searching found nothing for me.
> 
> 
> bill
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 and Audio Issue

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

From my experience Don is correct that a failure of the KPA3A will cause 
distortion.  Mine failed twice and was replaced by Elecraft. 

The best description of the failure is “fuzzy audio”.   I don’t recall the 
output was showing less than 100 watts. 


Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 6, 2020, at 1:25 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Rich,
> 
> Well, since the KPA100 is an option for the K2 (and not for any other 
> transceiver), I did not make a typo.
> Since you have the K3S, the 100 watt amplifier is the KPA3.
> That is why one has to be careful when specifying designations of options.
> 
> As I recall, that distorted audio on the K3S is a symptom of a failure in the 
> LPA on the RF Board.  Contact supp...@elecraft.com to get some points to 
> check.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 4/6/2020 1:43 PM, Rich wrote:
>> Just to make sure that was a typo you said K2??
>> 
>> I did your test on my K3S and I am getting about 55 watts on the meter
>> 
>> Any other ideas?
>> 
>> Thank you so much
>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 and Audio Issue

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I’d say that 10 - 12 volts is too low. The supply should be 13.8 to 14.8.  

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 6, 2020, at 10:52 AM, Rich  wrote:
> 
> I am having an issue with distorted audio once the KPA100 kicks in at about 
> 10-12v.
> 
> The KPA100 is putting out 100 watts
> 
> I have re-calibrated the radio with no change.
> 
> I am testing with the hand mic and a dummy load.   Which should eliminate any 
> external devices causing it
> 
> Any suggestions as to what can be causing this issue?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Rich
> 
> K3RWN
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Hum on KPA1500

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Electric garage door opener?   Most have internal SMPS units.

Drop the main breaker for the house and see if the noise goes away or 
decreases on your car radio.  If so, it is something in your house.    
Now the hunt begins.   One step at a time, being one breaker at a time.  
That will allow one to determine what circuit/room the issue is 
originating.


Depending on the age of the house, the ground system may have 
deteriorated and needs updating or replacement.   A qualified 
knowledgeable electrician can assist in this regard.


Our house is 50 years old and I found the AC mains ground just below the 
meter base had been eaten away by electrolysis.  I had a new ground rod 
installed and new cable ran to the meter base and then into the breaker 
panel.  Several issues were resolved with regard to lights getting 
bright and dim for no obvious reasons.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 4/6/2020 11:49 AM, David Christ wrote:

That is exactly what appears to be happening.  Heavy cable starts at service 
panel, proceeds into floor slab of garage which I assume is acting as Ufer 
ground.  What appears to be the same cable emerges from the other side of the 
slab and connects to the water system.  I think that it is fair to assume that 
that the cable emerging from the slab is also connected to the Ufer ground thus 
bonding the water system to the service system ground.  This is one of those 
things that is difficult to unambiguously describe with words but so easily 
described with a very simple drawing.

I have do doubts that the system was properly designed and safe.  But we are 
getting off the question that I had about RFI.  On 3/4/2020 K9YC discussed 
triplen harmonics in ground systems (I may not be stating it properly).   The 
question is then “Could triplen currents in the power ground system as 
described be causing the interference I experience when entering my garage?”  
or is there another explanation for the RFI?

I repeat the description

The AM radio in the car works fine in the driveway, but as soon as one starts 
to enter the garage, reception is covered up by a loud growl of static.  Radios 
in a room adjacent to the garage and over the cable in the basement below also 
have a problem while AM radios at the other end of the house are fine.


David K0LUM


On Apr 6, 2020, at 8:39 AM, Wes  wrote:

I believe that is the case.  However, one point on the water piping should be 
bonded to the service ground for safety reasons.  Using the piping for 
current-carrying purposes is a really bad idea.  Keywords: Copper pipe, dirt, 
concrete slab, jackhammer.  Don't ask me how I know.

Wes  N7WS


On 4/5/2020 10:51 PM, Clay Autery wrote:

NO "water pipe" should ever be used as a service ground...  I thought the code 
was changed to actually bar that practice entirely.

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
(318) 518-1389

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Re: [Elecraft] Hum on KPA1500

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I find it interesting where it is stated  "I have developed a loud 
hum" which would imply the hum did not exist prior to this point 
of observation.   That being the case, then one must ask "Ok so what has 
changed, been added or removed?".   If it wasn't there before and 
nothing has been changed, then why is it there now?    Something has 
failed, connections have corroded or broken, PL-259's is not tight, coax 
jumper has failed due to movement.  Thus I would suggest one find the 
problem and correct the problem.   I see no value and no point in adding 
to or re-designing a system which previously worked correctly.


Now, if something was indeed  added, removed or changed, that opens up 
another area for investigation.   What was not done correctly to 
accommodate the new configuration?


Jim, K9YC has some good points on bonding, grounding and proper use of 
chokes.


73

Bob, K4TAX



On 4/5/2020 3:50 PM, Carl Yaffey wrote:

I have developed a loud hum with the KPA1500 on 17m and 15m. A slight hum on 
20m. All other bands, no hum.
It’s power dependent. Loud at full power, hum reduces as power is lowered. Not 
too bad at 500w.
Suggestions?
73.

Carl, K8NU.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 hum - problem solved

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

If it was a switch in line to the vertical, I’d think you would observe a SWR 
increase when that antenna was selected. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 5, 2020, at 5:12 PM, Carl Yaffey  wrote:
> 
> It turned out to be using the 4-position Alpha-Delta coax switch. No problem 
> until I connect both the vertical and the dipole to it. 
> 
>> On Apr 5, 2020, at 5:37 PM, Buck  wrote:
>> 
>> I would bet your coax shield is acting like a radial and bringing RF back 
>> into the shack.  Need a choke.
>> 
> 
> Carl Yaffey  K8NU
> 614 268 6353, Columbus OH
> http://www.carl-yaffey.com
> http://www.grassahol.com
> http://www.bluesswing.com
> Https://www.columbusfolkmusicsociety.org
> http://www.timbrewolves.carl-yaffey.com
> http://www.folkramblers.carl-yaffey.com
> Http:www.clintonvillegrass.com
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 hum - problem solved

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

If it worked correctly before then why would one need to add a choke?  

Check connections, feed line, matching unit, and radial ground system at the 
antenna. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 5, 2020, at 4:52 PM, Buck  wrote:
> 
> I would bet your coax shield is acting like a radial and bringing RF back 
> into the shack.  Need a choke.
> 
> 
> k4ia, Buck
> K3s# 11497
> Honor Roll  8B DXCC
> EasyWayHamBooks.com
> 
>> On 4/5/2020 5:33 PM, Carl Yaffey wrote:
>> No hum using a dummy load.
>> No hum using a dipole.
>> Hum only with my all band vertical.
>> Thanks for the suggestions.
>> 73
>> K8NU
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Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100?

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

That is the nice thing about ham radio.  There is a mode, frequency, means and 
group that usually fulfills ones desires within the hobby. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 5, 2020, at 1:42 PM, brianchapn...@rogers.com wrote:
> 
> I'm glad I asked the question. Thanks for your thoughtful replies. I'm a 
> very casual QRP operator. I have used many of the digital modes,  cw, ssb and 
> FM  too, but certainly not with the sophistication you suggest. There appears 
> to be a lot more to it than I thought. Certainly food for thought.
> Again, thanks.
> 
> Brian VE3GMZ 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent via BlackBerry Hub+ Inbox for Android
> 
> 
>   Original Message  
> 
> 
> From: a.dur...@msn.com
> Sent: April 5, 2020 1:05 p.m.
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100?
> 
> 
> "With high power is it your practice to start with lower levels and work your 
> way up or do you go for broke from the start?"
> 
> For FT8 I make the initial call with the power that I think is required for 
> the propagation path.  If the station replies I may increase or reduce power 
> based on their report.  If the station does not reply I look at PSKReporter 
> to find reports from the station I called or from others in the same area.  
> If no one in the area reported my signal I may increase power.
> 
> My station controller automatically sets "FT8 power" on band change if that 
> option is enabled.  "FT8 power" is not max power on any band.  It is set for 
> each band based on antenna and experience of propagation conditions for that 
> band.   I can reduce power, or increase to band max power, whenever it is 
> appropriate but I enjoy making QSO with the lowest power I can.
> 
> Some people think that WSJT-X modes require no skill but it's not just blast 
> and log.  Those who put some thought into operating technique may make the 
> QSO where bigger stations fail.
> 
> I've been using WSJT-X since before version 1.0 was released but still have 
> worked more DX using CW than any digital mode in the last 8 or so years.
> 
> Andy, k3wyc
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Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100?

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

A weak signal mode does not imply a low power mode. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 4, 2020, at 11:15 PM, brianchapnick  wrote:
> 
> 
> This discussion fascinates me only in that I wonder why you are using so much 
> power for weak signal modes? 5 or 10 watts should be plenty even with a 
> compromised antenna and poor band conditions..or am I missing somthing.
> 
> Brian VE3GMZ 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.
> 
> 
> ---- Original message 
> From: Bob McGraw K4TAX 
> Date: 2020-04-04 8:19 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100?
> 
> Frank et al;
> 
> 
> Just quoted what is in the K3S manual.   No interpretation provided.   I 
> agree that 100 watts key down is a lot for a SSB amplifier running in CW 
> mode.   To me that says 100 watts for 10 minutes and then RX for 10 
> minutes.   Otherwise equal TX and RX times.   Who does that?
> 
> And if one is running "100 watts" then running CW or SSB for 10 minutes 
> might be the limit.  Just speculation.   On AM I might talk for 10 
> minutes but that is at 25% rated power output for carrier, yet it is 100 
> watts PEP.   The 60 C is MY guideline. The KPA3A will shut down about 85 
> C or so.
> 
> On 6M I run my KPA500 at about 300 to 400 watts.  The K3S is running 
> about 25 to 30 watts on 6M.   At this point I'm watching the KPA500 
> temperature.
> 
> There is NO DX worth blowing a PA either in the K3S or the KPA500.
> But I know guys that will blow things up, pushing things to the max and 
> beyond  trying to work that DX station.  I say bah humbug to that!
> 
> I just pay attention to the PA temp, specially when running digital 
> modes. Likewise for the KPA500.
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
> On 4/4/2020 3:41 PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote:
> > Thanks for the replies.
> >
> > I've enabled the PA temp display (currently showing 22C right after 
> > power-up but before transmitting), and will keep an eye on that.
> >
> > Bob, I noticed that line in the K3S manual about the CW/SSB duty 
> > cycle. Does "100% - 10 min, 100 W key-down" mean that if you key down 
> > without stop in CW mode it can go 10 minutes at 100 watts? That seems 
> > like an awful lot.
> >
> > Where do the recommended TPO's for 6 meters, the 50% value for JT9, 
> > and the 60C guideline for the PA temp come from?
> >
> > Thanks again,
> >
> > Frank K6FOD
> >
> >
> > On 4/4/20 6:22 AM, John Simmons wrote:
> >> Fred Cady's book:
> >>
> >> "There are four fans speeds that turn on at different temperatures."
> >> "If the temperature reaches 84 degrees C the KPA3 will be bypassed 
> >> until the temperature falls to stop any damage as a last-ditch backup 
> >> measure to protect your expensive power transistors from the excess 
> >> heat."
> >>
> >> -de John NI0K
> >>
> >>
> >> Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote on 4/3/2020 6:39 PM:
> >>> Frank:
> >>>
> >>> The duty cycle for the transmitter, as stated in the manual, is;  CW 
> >>> and SSB modes, 100% - 10 min, 100 W key-down at 25C ambient.   Do 
> >>> note that 6M has reduce power values of 85 watts {51 -52 MHz} or 70 
> >>> watts {52 - 54 MHz}
> >>>
> >>> The duty cycle for JT-9, 1 minute transmit, 1 minute receive would 
> >>> be 50%.   I frequently run 100 watts on WSJT-X FT-8 with no issues.  
> >>> Just pay attention to PA temperature.  It should be 60 C or less.   
> >>> Also this is with FANS in the automatic mode.
> >>>
> >>> 73
> >>>
> >>> Bob, K4TAX
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On 4/3/2020 4:18 PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote:
> >>>> I've been using JT9 mode on 630m this winter with my K3S outputting 
> >>>> to an external class D amp.
> >>>>
> >>>> Now I'm interested in trying some JT9 QSOs with some people 
> >>>> currently operating on 160m. For me this would mean outputting 
> >>>> directly from the K3S (with internal tuner) to the antenna.
> >>>>
> >>>> Given the 1-minute cycle time for JT9, are there recommendations 
> >>>> (official from Elecraft, or otherwise) on maximum power to use in a 
> >>>> situation like this? And/or, is the answer dependent on the SWR I 
> >>>> can achieve with the antenna

Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100?

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Frank et al;


Just quoted what is in the K3S manual.   No interpretation provided.   I 
agree that 100 watts key down is a lot for a SSB amplifier running in CW 
mode.   To me that says 100 watts for 10 minutes and then RX for 10 
minutes.   Otherwise equal TX and RX times.   Who does that?


And if one is running "100 watts" then running CW or SSB for 10 minutes 
might be the limit.  Just speculation.   On AM I might talk for 10 
minutes but that is at 25% rated power output for carrier, yet it is 100 
watts PEP.   The 60 C is MY guideline. The KPA3A will shut down about 85 
C or so.


On 6M I run my KPA500 at about 300 to 400 watts.  The K3S is running 
about 25 to 30 watts on 6M.   At this point I'm watching the KPA500 
temperature.


There is NO DX worth blowing a PA either in the K3S or the KPA500.    
But I know guys that will blow things up, pushing things to the max and 
beyond  trying to work that DX station.  I say bah humbug to that!


I just pay attention to the PA temp, specially when running digital 
modes. Likewise for the KPA500.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 4/4/2020 3:41 PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote:

Thanks for the replies.

I've enabled the PA temp display (currently showing 22C right after 
power-up but before transmitting), and will keep an eye on that.


Bob, I noticed that line in the K3S manual about the CW/SSB duty 
cycle. Does "100% - 10 min, 100 W key-down" mean that if you key down 
without stop in CW mode it can go 10 minutes at 100 watts? That seems 
like an awful lot.


Where do the recommended TPO's for 6 meters, the 50% value for JT9, 
and the 60C guideline for the PA temp come from?


Thanks again,

Frank K6FOD


On 4/4/20 6:22 AM, John Simmons wrote:

Fred Cady's book:

"There are four fans speeds that turn on at different temperatures."
"If the temperature reaches 84 degrees C the KPA3 will be bypassed 
until the temperature falls to stop any damage as a last-ditch backup 
measure to protect your expensive power transistors from the excess 
heat."


-de John NI0K


Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote on 4/3/2020 6:39 PM:

Frank:

The duty cycle for the transmitter, as stated in the manual, is;  CW 
and SSB modes, 100% - 10 min, 100 W key-down at 25C ambient.   Do 
note that 6M has reduce power values of 85 watts {51 -52 MHz} or 70 
watts {52 - 54 MHz}


The duty cycle for JT-9, 1 minute transmit, 1 minute receive would 
be 50%.   I frequently run 100 watts on WSJT-X FT-8 with no issues.  
Just pay attention to PA temperature.  It should be 60 C or less.   
Also this is with FANS in the automatic mode.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 4/3/2020 4:18 PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote:
I've been using JT9 mode on 630m this winter with my K3S outputting 
to an external class D amp.


Now I'm interested in trying some JT9 QSOs with some people 
currently operating on 160m. For me this would mean outputting 
directly from the K3S (with internal tuner) to the antenna.


Given the 1-minute cycle time for JT9, are there recommendations 
(official from Elecraft, or otherwise) on maximum power to use in a 
situation like this? And/or, is the answer dependent on the SWR I 
can achieve with the antenna?


Thanks and 73,

Frank K6FOD


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Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100?

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Running FT-8 or PSK-31, I see 60 C from time to time.   Some bands I see 
the temp rise much faster indicating less efficiency.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 4/4/2020 5:03 PM, Dave Cole wrote:

What is the recommended temp to run the KPA500 at?

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 4/4/20 3:01 PM, Andy Durbin wrote:
"Does "100% - 10 min, 100 W key-down" mean that if you key down 
without stop in CW mode it can go 10 minutes at 100 watts? That seems 
like an awful lot."


If you want to know what it actually means you'd probably have to run 
a test and record the PA temperature.  Does it reach maximum value 
within that 10 minute period?  If so, what is that maximum value and 
do you want to operate the finals at that temperature?  If 
temperature does not reach a maximum then what is the rate of 
increase?  At what time does the increasing temperature cross over 
the temperature at which you are willing to operate the finals?


I record KPA500 temperatures for every transmission. Unfortunately 
Kenwood does not provide finals temperature on the serial bus so I 
have to make do with recording my TS-590S rear chassis temperature.


Kenwood provided data shows TS-590S final temperature limited at 
about 85 deg C after 5 minutes and remained constant for remainder of 
the 2 hour 100 W key down test.  (and no, I don't let mine get that hot)


73,
Andy, k3wyc







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Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100?

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Andy et al;

Just quoted what is in the K3S manual.   No interpretation provided.   I 
agree that 100 watts key down is a lot for a SSB amplifier running in CW 
mode.   To me that says 100 watts for 10 minutes and then RX for 10 
minutes.   Otherwise equal TX and RX times.   Who does that?


I just pay attention to the PA temp when running digital modes. Likewise 
for the KPA500.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 4/4/2020 5:01 PM, Andy Durbin wrote:

"Does "100% - 10 min, 100 W key-down" mean that if you key down without stop in CW 
mode it can go 10 minutes at 100 watts? That seems like an awful lot."

If you want to know what it actually means you'd probably have to run a test 
and record the PA temperature.  Does it reach maximum value within that 10 
minute period?  If so, what is that maximum value and do you want to operate 
the finals at that temperature?  If temperature does not reach a maximum then 
what is the rate of increase?  At what time does the increasing temperature 
cross over the temperature at which you are willing to operate the finals?

I record KPA500 temperatures for every transmission.  Unfortunately Kenwood 
does not provide finals temperature on the serial bus so I have to make do with 
recording my TS-590S rear chassis temperature.

Kenwood provided data shows TS-590S final temperature limited at about 85 deg C 
after 5 minutes and remained constant for remainder of the 2 hour 100 W key 
down test.  (and no, I don't let mine get that hot)

73,
Andy, k3wyc







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Re: [Elecraft] Max power for JT9 with K3S 100?

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Frank:

The duty cycle for the transmitter, as stated in the manual, is;  CW and 
SSB modes, 100% - 10 min, 100 W key-down at 25C ambient.   Do note that 
6M has reduce power values of 85 watts {51 -52 MHz} or 70 watts {52 - 54 
MHz}


The duty cycle for JT-9, 1 minute transmit, 1 minute receive would be 
50%.   I frequently run 100 watts on WSJT-X FT-8 with no issues.  Just 
pay attention to PA temperature.  It should be 60 C or less.   Also this 
is with FANS in the automatic mode.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 4/3/2020 4:18 PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote:
I've been using JT9 mode on 630m this winter with my K3S outputting to 
an external class D amp.


Now I'm interested in trying some JT9 QSOs with some people currently 
operating on 160m. For me this would mean outputting directly from the 
K3S (with internal tuner) to the antenna.


Given the 1-minute cycle time for JT9, are there recommendations 
(official from Elecraft, or otherwise) on maximum power to use in a 
situation like this? And/or, is the answer dependent on the SWR I can 
achieve with the antenna?


Thanks and 73,

Frank K6FOD


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Re: [Elecraft] 75 ohm coax

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

The same PL-259 reducers for RG-8X works for RG-6.   Same for BNC connectors. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 2, 2020, at 10:13 PM, Ignacy  wrote:
> 
> The plus of RG6 is low price, less than 10c a foot. In receive applications,
> they seem to be lasting forever. In transmit too but small nuisances are
> necessity to use a tuner for low SWR antennas and nonstandard connectors.
> But running two in parallel does not make any sense. 
> 
> Half a year ago I found Rg6's 50 Ohm equivalent on ebay. Altelix AX240 for
> $99/1000ft. Measured parameters same as LMR240.  The plus of cheap and good
> 1000-ft roll (with crimp connectors that can be attached in 30 sec) is that
> the coax can be cut as needed, with no worries about cost. 
> 
> Ignacy NO9E
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - NOT K3S - issue: TX Calibration fails on 6m only

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I perform "radio maintenance" about every 2nd month or so.

That includes check frequency {adjust REF CAL as necessary}, check power 
output on all bands {run TX Gain Cal as necessary}, receiver sensitivity 
{run RX Gain cal as necessary} and then perform a full back up of the 
configuration data.    At the same time, I'm amazed at how stable and 
accurate the radio maintains in all regards.


I've not experienced any failures of the TX gain calibration except when 
the KPA3A had issues.  That was replaced with a Rev E unit and no 
problems observed since then.


73

Bob, K4TAX

On 4/2/2020 9:01 AM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:

I had the same issue with a brand new K3S. It failed a couple times and then it 
passed once...so I left it there. I have not been on 6M but I assume it will 
work fine. I do feel apprehensive though about running the cal again.

Chuck Hawley
  c-haw...@illinois.edu

  Amateur Radio, KE9UW
  aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on behalf 
of Jim Spears 
Sent: Thursday, April 2, 2020 8:12 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - NOT K3S - issue: TX Calibration fails on 6m only

I am helping a friend upgrade an older K3/100 (s/n 798) after he recently
acquired it from estate of a SK.  I have brought firmware forward one or two
versions and installed the KIO3B board set.  The radio has main RX only and
the KSYN3A upgrade.  It does have the KANT3 antenna tuner.



I ran the 5 watt TX Calibration and it failed due to high swr on 6m only.  I
thought this curious so ran this test against one of my K3S with the same
high quality dummy load and cable.  It passed.  I also scanned the dummy
load with my RigExpert and it is flat to at least 2m.



We would appreciate any suggestions as to how to further troubleshoot this
issue.  My friend says that 6m is not important to him - today - but
tomorrow might be a different story.  It seems reasonable to us that so long
as we are working on it, we should leave it fully operational.



I have not looked to see if the front panel to main board pin upgrade or any
other hardware mod has been performed.



Jim

N1NK

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