[Elecraft] KX2 question

2023-12-01 Thread Bud
Folks …

I recently invoked the latest firmware update on my KX2 (s/n  1031).
Upon beginning use of the KX2 after the firmware update  two  changes to the 
operating configuration were noticed.

They are:

1)  Upon pressing any of the front panel push button switches, a CW identifier 
takes place.
  How do I delete this from happening?

2)  The “display” push button no longer displays the several functions it once 
did.
  What do I need to do to bring back the display functions when I push the 
“display” button?

Thanks for any help in this matter …

Bud,
NY1Z …




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[Elecraft] P3SVGA Wanted

2022-06-01 Thread Bud Governale
I'm looking to purchase a P3SVGA.
Please let me know if you have one you'd like to sell.

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net
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[Elecraft] Just wondering

2019-04-14 Thread Bud
I am interested in learning the year that the K2 was introduced into the 
Amateur Radio market.
And, what is the approximate year K2 s/n 2514 was shipped?
Thanks to the Elecraft historian(s) that can answer my questions.

Bud …
NY1Z
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 SWR meter

2018-05-06 Thread Bud Semon
I have the same problem with S/N 64.  I thought it might be a cable but the
problem occurs on all bands, both antenna outputs and into a dummy load.
I'm only about 90% sure that it is related to temperature - I was too busy
working the contest to do much more troubleshooting.  And I agree with the
fan noise comments - the pitch of the noise comes right through my Bose
noise canceling headphones.

73, Bud  N7CW

On Sun, May 6, 2018 at 3:43 PM Don Butler <n...@comcast.net> wrote:

> Mike I had the very same thing happen last night while operating the 7QP
> contest. which is the first contest I have operated with the KPA1500
>  the heatsink temperature was down in the mid 40s C at the time 
> and
> in my case it occurred on 160 meters only  SWR as per other meters as
> well as the digital readout on the 1500 were reading 1.2:1 ... and did not
> change even when the LED flashing occurred . but I was getting
> intermittent flashing of all LEDs on the amp's SWR meter 
>
> During the contest I was continuously running on CW with hourly QSO rates
> running between the 70s and 110s  I opted to manually switch on the fan
> to keep the temperature below 60 degs C . level 2 seemed to keep it
> there most of the time  but I did move up to level 3 a few times  (and
> BTW, at that speed the KPA1500 is clearly the noisiest amp I have ever
> owned
>  but, arguably, it may very well be the "coolest" also . headphones
> were absolutely necessary with that noisy fan . clearly much noisier
> than the Alpha 9500 sitting right next door ... which I also used during
> the
> same contest...
>
> So Mike, you're not the only one experiencing this phenomenon whatever
> it is..
>
> Don, N5LZ   (KPA1500 #45)
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Crownover
> Sent: Sunday, April 29, 2018 8:13 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 SWR meter
>
> I have noticed that after my KPA1500 gets above 50C the SWR indicator light
> starts to show intermittent high SWR. My KPA500 did not do that. I'm using
> resonant yagis and the digital SWR meter shows 1.1:1 and doesn't change nor
> does the SWR indicator on the K3S. It seems the SWR indicator lights are
> acting independent of the meter on the KPA1500 screen. RF? I have not had
> any faults or shut downs as a result of the indicated high SWR. The amp
> operates wonderfully, but the indicator lights are a bit bothersome. Anyone
> have similar issues?
> 73,
> Mike AD5A
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[Elecraft] K3 Jumps To High Output In Data Mode During Power Knob Rotation

2017-09-03 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
The K3 mode button is set to DATA and the transmit mode is DATA A.

As I adjust the power output (PWR) knob during continuous transmit, the 
measured output displayed on the Power Master jumps to a high level.
As an experiment, If the output is at a steady 40 W for example, when I 
slowly and continuously rotate the PWR knob, the output jumps to 150+ watts 
output during rotation of the PWR knob.
As soon as I stop rotating the PWR knob the output is steady at the chosen 
output.

If I choose a different power output during receive, the output is momentarily 
very high and then drops to the selected output – Overshoot.
No Overshoot if I don’t change the PWR knob.

This is causing havoc with the amp.

Out of curiosity I tried this in CW mode. In CW when I turn the PWR knob 
during a continuous transmit, the output does not jump to a high level but 
rather it follows the PWR knob setting smoothly.

What may be the issue?

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net 

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Re: [Elecraft] Linear thoughts

2017-03-17 Thread Bud Semon
My thoughts in order of importance to me:

1) 1500 W continuous duty - 100% clean signal.
2) 160 - 6 M
3) QSK - no relays
4) 1 package - no separate power supply
5) Lightweight (this is relative of course)
6) Remotely controllable
7) Internal tuner not required

73, Bud  N7CW

On Fri, Mar 17, 2017 at 10:06 AM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft <
e...@elecraft.com> wrote:

> Interesting discussion.
>
> Folks, if we did introduce a 1500 W solid state amp similar to our KPA500
> in operation, what features etc would be important?
>
> 73,
> Eric
> /elecraft.com/
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT 20M Moving QRM (Video)

2016-03-03 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

> On Mar 3, 2016, at 5:53 42PM, David Christ <radio...@mchsi.com> wrote:
> 
> Is there any way to easily determine if a wall wart is a SMPS?  

Weigh it.

Bud, W2RU
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Re: [Elecraft] headphone impedance

2015-12-28 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
The headphones I have used for over a decade are 600-ohm high-end stereo 
high-fidelity phones.  I obtain “comfortable” audio with my audio gain control 
set at about 9 o’clock.  I am 99% CW, and they are my preferred-by-far 
headphones for both the K3 and the K3S, although I use something else when I 
need an integrated headset for phone contests.

Bud, W2RU

> On Dec 28, 2015, at 8:10 55AM, Barry N1EU <n1eu.ba...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Is there an acceptable range of headphone impedance for the K3/K3s?
> 
> I've got some 300-ohm headphones and wondering if the impedance alone
> makes them a poor choice for my K3s?
> 
> Thanks & 73,
> Barry N1EU
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Re: [Elecraft] headphone impedance

2015-12-28 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
What am I missing?

I use 600-ohm stereo headphones plugged directly into the front panel jack of 
my K3S.

I run the Audio Gain control at 9 o’clock — roughly a 25% rotation toward full 
volume.

I have more than enough audio for my elderly ears, and when I pull the 
headphone plug out of the jack, my speaker audio is at a comparable level.

What is the non-problem with high-impedance phones that you guys are trying to 
solve?

Bud, W2RU

> On Dec 28, 2015, at 1:59 09PM, Steve Ellington <steven...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> K3  uses the.
> 
> LM4811  Headphone Amplifier
> 
> Texas Instruments Specs for output Z
> 
> RL = 16Ω 105 mW
> RL = 32Ω 70 mW
> 
> At 60 ohms the output power drops to 20 mw. Per their graphs.
> 
> 300 ohms is not even considered.
> 
> Amplifier gain control is done digitally within the chip. With such a high
> Z load, gain would likely need increasing.
> The results of doing so are unknown. Consider pop, click, white noise etc.
> 
> Also consider what happens when switching from headphones to speaker when
> the AF Gain control is turned up high. Blasting?
> 
> I suggest sticking within the 16 to 32 ohm range.
> 
> Steve N4LQ
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] headphone impedance

2015-12-28 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
Perhaps this will help:

Look up the specs on a good home audio amplifier — say, QSC or Crown.  You’ll 
find something called “damping factor”, and it’s often 50 or more.  Roughly 
speaking, it’s the ratio of the (loudspeaker) load impedance to the internal 
(source) impedance of the audio amplifier.  So modern semi-pro and stereophile 
audio amplifiers are “grossly out of specs”, as you put it.

I have a legacy, hernia-inducing McIntosh power amplifier, circa-1960s, with 
output transformers and three taps — for 4-, 8-, and 16-ohm loudspeaker loads.  
Nothing I’ve owned since then uses output transformers or matched loads.  Most 
audio amplifier designs these days are voltage followers.  Most manufacturers 
don’t attempt to match source impedance to load impedance.  Highly damped 
output stages are “good” things to have.

Yes, it’s true that voltage-follower amplifiers deliver more power to 
low-impedance loads than to high-impedance loads.  But if I were to follow your 
line of reasoning to its logical conclusion in the home audio arena, I would 
conclude that 4-ohm speaker systems are sonically superior to 16-ohm speaker 
systems simply because they require more output power from the audio amplifier 
to play my music collection.  

Does that seem like a reasonable way to choose your stereo system loudspeakers? 
 Or headphones for your K3?

If your 100-ohm (or higher) headphones can’t provide reasonable levels of 
undistorted sound pressure at your ears when your K3 or K3S audio gain control 
is at, say, 9 or 10 o’clock, perhaps it’s time to buy a new pair of “cans”.  
That’s certainly gotta be cheaper than reverting to a 75A-4 with its audio 
output transformer and 500-ohm tap.

Bud, W2RU

   
> On Dec 28, 2015, at 2:57 22PM, Steve Ellington <steven...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> No problem...Just grossly out of specs.  
> Whatever happenshappens
> 73
> 
> Steve N4LQ
> 
> On Mon, Dec 28, 2015 at 2:53 PM, W2RU - Bud Hippisley <w...@frontiernet.net 
> <mailto:w...@frontiernet.net>> wrote:
> What am I missing?
> 
> I use 600-ohm stereo headphones plugged directly into the front panel jack of 
> my K3S.
> 
> I run the Audio Gain control at 9 o’clock — roughly a 25% rotation toward 
> full volume.
> 
> I have more than enough audio for my elderly ears, and when I pull the 
> headphone plug out of the jack, my speaker audio is at a comparable level.
> 
> What is the non-problem with high-impedance phones that you guys are trying 
> to solve?
> 
> Bud, W2RU
> 
> > On Dec 28, 2015, at 1:59 09PM, Steve Ellington <steven...@gmail.com 
> > <mailto:steven...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> >
> > K3  uses the.
> >
> > LM4811  Headphone Amplifier
> >
> > Texas Instruments Specs for output Z
> >
> > RL = 16Ω 105 mW
> > RL = 32Ω 70 mW
> >
> > At 60 ohms the output power drops to 20 mw. Per their graphs.
> >
> > 300 ohms is not even considered.
> >
> > Amplifier gain control is done digitally within the chip. With such a high
> > Z load, gain would likely need increasing.
> > The results of doing so are unknown. Consider pop, click, white noise etc.
> >
> > Also consider what happens when switching from headphones to speaker when
> > the AF Gain control is turned up high. Blasting?
> >
> > I suggest sticking within the 16 to 32 ohm range.
> >
> > Steve N4LQ
> >
> 
> 

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[Elecraft] P3 Showing Transmit Signal

2015-11-24 Thread Bud Governale
I noticed this weekend that occasionally during transmit instead of the scan 
freezing in place it would continue scanning showing only my transmit signal 
with only that signal appearing in the black waterfall.


I don't have the P3TXMON. It never did this before.

I was viewing the external SVGA monitor.

Any idea why?

73,

Bud W3LL





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[Elecraft] P3 Freeze

2015-03-02 Thread Bud Governale
Has a non Beta firmware update been released which minimizes the time for the 
SVGA display to unfreeze between CQ’s during a contest?

This made it difficult to find/observe a clear channel in the waterfall between 
CQ’s or contacts.

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net
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Re: [Elecraft] Split notes

2015-02-18 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

 On Feb 18, 2015, at 8:25 26PM, KarlErb karle...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Will now have all notes mentioning split handled as trash - if not spam - 
 in order to better enjoy the reflector. 

Democracies and benevolent dictatorships are “messy”.  You’re giving up a 
chance to see product improvements hashed out right before your very eyes.  
Your loss.

Bud, W2RU
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[Elecraft] K3 No Transmit When WAV File Is Played

2014-12-11 Thread Bud Governale
When I hit a function key in N1MM the correct wav file plays as heard thru the 
computer speakers.

However the K3 (in SSB mode) does not transmit.

Any suggestions?

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Preamp

2014-09-06 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
On Sep 6, 2014, at 2:34 17PM, Dauer, Edward eda...@law.du.edu wrote:

 I received a couple of off-list comments that might be of interest to
 those who are following this thread.  One was that narrowing the BW also
 improves the S/N. 

Maybe.  Maybe not.  Or, maybe up to a point.

I believe that whether one observes monotonic improvement in ability to 
decipher the intelligence carried in a very weak signal as one reduces receiver 
BW will be a function of _how_ the BW is narrowed in the various electronic 
circuits and/or digital algorithms, as well as a function of our own individual 
hearing characteristics.

Perhaps I am not on the main part of the normalcy distribution curve (my close 
friends will assure me I’m _not_!) but I know for a fact that many, many times 
I have been best able to pull intelligible information out of a very weak CW 
signal on the low bands by using a receiver BW somewhat _wider_ than that 
provided by my narrowest filtering options.  I have used primarily Kenwoods and 
(more recently) the K3 for most of my serious low-band DXing efforts, but I 
can’t tell you if this effect is more or less apparent in one model vs. any 
other. 

I am also a strong believer in what I have been told is “stochastic resonance” 
as an aid to hearing and copying the intelligence carried in weak signals.   I 
have found repeatedly, for instance, that I am more apt to hear certain 
“unusual” vehicle sounds from the engine compartment or underbody when I have 
the car radio playing music within a certain range of amplitudes.   Of course, 
that might also depend on my choice of music genre … :-)

Bud, W2RU
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[Elecraft] P3 No Longer Matching K3 Signal Level

2014-04-01 Thread Bud Governale
My P3 always matched S meter signal level to the K3.

This morning with the S0 on the K3 ( with antenna disconnected) the P3 is 
displaying a level about 7 db below the S0 level.

With antenna connected the K3 shows S7 while the P3 level on the screen is 
slightly below S0.

What happened and how do I fix this?

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net 
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[Elecraft] P3 Not Showing Sub Receiver Cursor When Not In Split Mode

2013-12-06 Thread Bud Governale
P3:If I turn on Split I see the sub receiver cursor along with VFO A. 
However if I just turn on the sub receiver without Split I only see VFO A. I 
need to see VFO B when tuning VFO B when not in Split Mode. How do I do this?

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net
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Re: [Elecraft] Internal SWR Readings

2013-11-13 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
Rick, I believe you're confusing SWR and impedance.

If a transmission line is lossless, the SWR will be the same along the entire 
length of the line.

If a transmission line is lossy, the SWR will get progressively lower as you 
move closer to the transmitter.  In an extreme case (such as 1000 feet of old 
RG-58 or worse, at high enough frequencies), there will be so much loss in the 
line that EVERY antenna will look like 50 ohms back at the transmitter and the 
SWR will be 1:1 there!  So the transmitter end of the line is the LEAST useful 
end to look at SWR.

However, the COMPONENTS of the transformed antenna (or load) impedance DO vary 
along the line.  And It is the antenna IMPEDANCE that repeats every 
1/2-wavelength back toward the transmitter from the antenna end -- not the SWR. 
 

At all other points along the transmission line, unless the antenna impedance 
is purely resistive and exactly the same as the characteristic impedance of the 
transmission line the load impedance seen along the line will be a combination 
of resistive (real) and reactive (imaginary) parts.  Those two components of 
impedance continually change in amplitude with distance (in wavelengths) along 
the line, repeating every half wavelength along the line.  So if you have an 
impedance meter (rather than an SWR meter), you will, in fact, see those values 
of R and X vary from point to point along the line.  But many, many, many 
combinations of R and X can all result in the same SWR.

A very good way to see how R and X vary with distance back from the antenna 
along the transmission line -- even though the SWR remains constant -- is to 
understand what a Smith chart displays.

One reason practical SWR meters don't read the same value of SWR on a line -- 
even at the same point on the line -- is because different circuit designs may 
have different amounts of error, or inaccuracy, for different amplitudes and 
combinations of R and X.  And the greater the mismatch between the antenna (or 
load) impedance and the characteristic impedance of the transmission line, the 
larger those swings in R and X along the line will be.  Thus, I'm not surprised 
that the SWR monitor in my K3 often shows a different SWR than my Kenwood 
wattmeter at essentially the identical point on the transmission line to my 
antenna.  Even the world-renowned Bird wattmeter doesn't always do so well!

There are many good treatments of SWR, transformed antenna impedance along a 
transmission line, and the use of Smith charts on the web and in many antenna 
books.

Bud, W2RU


On Nov 13, 2013, at 1:00 49PM, Rick Bates happymooseph...@gmail.com wrote:

 For some reason this comes up often on ham lists.
 
 The SWR meter measures the match AT THAT point in the network.  The SWR
 varies along the feedline (which is why 1/2 wave feed sections are often
 desired, so you can get an accurate antenna feed point reading).  
 
 You can take ten different meters, each a meter apart from each other on the
 cable and see ten different measurements.
 
 The most important reading is the one AT the transmitter (or at input of the
 tuner, if used); the rest are superfluous information; nice to know but not
 critical.
 
 73,
 Rick wa6nhc
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of pastor...@verizon.net
 Sent: Wednesday, November 13, 2013 9:25 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Internal SWR Readings
 
 Hi, it's Mark Griffin, KB3Z. I was wondering how reliable the SWR reading is
 on the K3? I have an external SWR/Power Meter hooked up between my K3,
 Antenna Tuner and my Amp. Sometimes there seems to be some major differences
 between the K3 and the External Meter. And it always is the fact the the K3
 gives a higher reading then the External meter. Has anyone experienced this
 also and if so can one Sync up there Internal SWR meter on the K3? Thanks!
 Mark

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[Elecraft] P3 SteppIR Connection

2013-10-13 Thread Bud Governale

On what RS232 leg should I connect the SteppIR controller?

P3 to K3 Leg or P3 to Computer.

I think one leg may carry less traffic.

73,

Bud W3LL


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[Elecraft] K3 Low Audio Output on 2M FM

2013-10-13 Thread Bud Governale
I used for the first time the FM mode on 2M during an EOC Area Exercise this 
weekend.
The K3 has the internal 2M transverter along with a 13 KHz FM filter in the 
main radio (VFO A)


All were having much difficulty with my transmissions due to low audio 
output.

RF out was not the issue with full quieting received by all.

The deviation is at the factory setting of 5.0.
Equalization is also untouched from the factory. It appears to be a flat 
line in Menu.


Mic is a Heil Pro-Set Plus switched to Full Range.

No issues with 2M SSB in VHF contests.

Where do I begin to look to fix this FM Mode issue?

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft keyer chip replacement

2013-08-21 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
I would love to see Ultimatic mode added to both the K3 and the KX3.

Bud, W2RU

On Aug 21, 2013, at 1:16 49PM, Dick Dievendorff die...@comcast.net wrote:

 Elecraft does not use separate keyer chips.  Morse code generation is
 performed by the main microcontroller.
 
 Dick, K6KR
 
 -Original Message-
 From:  On Behalf Of David Toepfer
 Sent: Wednesday, August 21, 2013 10:09 AM
 
 Since I am interested in the Ultimatic mode and the Bug mode I have on my
 Pico keyer, can anyone tell me (I am mostly concerned with the KX1 and also
 the KX3 keyer chip):
  
 1) Do the Elecraft keyer chips have these modes?

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - add-on for the wish list

2013-08-21 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
Probably because a lot of users already have a conveniently located keypad / 
keyboard that they use with their PC or Mac logging program

Bud, W2RU

On Aug 21, 2013, at 2:37 27PM, Bill b...@w2blc.net wrote:

 Actually, I am surprised no one has designed a third party keypad for the K3.
 
 Bill W2BLC K-line
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K-3 and second reciever

2013-06-29 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
Don't transmit.

On Jun 29, 2013, at 1:12 25PM, gary hext rgh...@twc.com wrote:

 This has probably been covered before, what is the best way to connect a
 second receiver to a k3 so you can compare them without blowing the front
 end out of the 2nd rcvr?
 
 Gary, K4UU
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Keyer vs. Winkeyer

2013-06-27 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
I haven't seen anyone mention one feature of the WinKeyer  -- a feature which 
happens to be what originally attracted me to it in the first place:  
non-iambic modes!  In particular, Ultimatic.  Of course, if you use a 
single-lever paddle, or if you never employ paddle-sent code, this won't matter 
to you, but I prefer dual-lever paddles, and I make far fewer mistakes with 
Ultimatic mode than either of the common iambic ones.  Combine that with the 
near seamless relationship between the WinKeyer Host Mode and good general 
purpose or contest logging software on a PC or Mac, and I can't imagine doing 
without it.  I love my K3, and I'd love to eliminate one more accessory box, 
but not at the expense of the WinKeyer's features.

Bud, W2RU




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Re: [Elecraft] How to reply to specific post on the reflector?

2013-06-21 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On Jun 11, 2013, at 12:56 33AM, Brendon Whateley bren...@whateley.com wrote:

 Elecraft sets up the mail list in a somewhat unusual way.  

  The normal way is to rewrite the reply-to header so that REPLY goes back to 
 the list without the need for Reply All and an extra copy to the previous 
 sender.

I disagree that this is unusual.  In fact, given the Reply options available 
in modern e-mail clients (as Don has shown with Thunderbird, for instance), 
what you call the normal way perverts the options the user sees in his/her 
client.

Basically, the English language should prevail.   Reply clearly refers to the 
sender, not the medium.  Reply All means exactly what it says.  I hope the 
list moderator will keep it just the way it is.  Too many impolitic e-mails 
intended for a single individual have received bulk distribution via reflectors 
set up so that Reply sends it to the group.

Bud, W2RU

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Eric Co.... Please relocate the Link/UnLink button.

2013-03-05 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
See questions and comments below.

Begin forwarded message:

 From: Ian White gm3...@ifwtech.co.uk
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Eric Co Please relocate the Link/UnLink 
 button.
 Date: March 5, 2013 3:03:36 AM EST
 To: 'Wayne Burdick' n...@elecraft.com, 'David F. Reed' 
 w5sv.d...@gmail.com
 Cc: 'elecraft' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 
 A manual Link control is not necessary for diversity reception. 'Sync
 and link' already happen automatically when entering Diversity mode.
 
 If the manual Link control is removed, Diversity would then become the
 easily accessible 'hold' feature of the SUB button (available if the
 second receiver is present, otherwise having no effect).

I would love having Diversity become the easily accessible HOLD feature of the 
SUB button, as suggested by Ian.  But if the manual Link control is removed, 
how would one then engage it for non-Diversity applications?

 Another source of confusion in Diversity mode is the frequency display
 for VFO B, which is not the true frequency of that VFO. (Obscurely, it
 is the frequency that VFO B *would* jump to on TX, *if*  the operator
 *also* chooses to engage SPLIT.) That false frequency indication can
 easily mislead the operator into believing that the two VFOs have not
 been successfully synchronized. 

 In normal diversity reception, the display should show the *true* VFO B
 frequency - reassuringly synchronized and slaved to VFO A. It should
 only display that alternative frequency if SPLIT has actually been
 selected.

I understand Ian's point about confusion in Diversity mode; I suffered from 
that the first few hundred times I used it, too.  However...I think I'd still 
like to see where VFO B would jump to on TX before engaging the SPLIT button. 
 For me, a better solution would be to dim the VFO B display (relative to VFO A 
intensity) when in Diversity mode and Split has not been selected.   (I have no 
idea if that would be possible.)   The slowly blinking decimal point is a bit 
too subtle and requires me to stare at it far too long to be the right way to 
indicate Diversity mode for me.

Bud, W2RU

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Re: [Elecraft] What does the frequency readout mean?

2013-02-20 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On Feb 20, 2013, at 8:02 AM, Pete Smith N4ZR n...@contesting.com wrote:
 
 For some reason, I was operating under the mistaken impression that the 
 sideband used for CW followed the sideband convention for SSB.  

It's been many decades since the sideband used for CW switched with the USB 
/LSB convention (above and below roughly 9 MHz) with most mainstream rigs.  The 
sideband used for CW is constant across all bands in the K3 and also in Kenwood 
rigs.  Unfortunately, those conventions differ.  I prefer to listen to CW using 
what would be called USB mode on sideband.  On the Kenwood TS-940 and 
TS-950SDX, that corresponds to their CW mode.  On the K-3, however, that's 
CW REV -- a difference that drives me bananas when I have the K-3 as Radio 1 
and my Kenwood as Radio 2, because my general purpose logging program requires 
both Radio 1 and Radio 2 to be the same!

That said, however, suppose your K-3 is in CW REV mode, which tunes the same 
way as USB would.  That is, as you tune from the bottom of the band up higher 
in frequency, and assuming you have your filter passbands centered normally, 
you will hear stations come into the filter passband with DESCENDING pitch.  
They will exit your received passband with a LOWER pitch than when they entered 
as you tune UP in frequency.

So now let's look at the question you asked in your other posting:

Same setup, but listening to a signal on the air.  Beat note is ~500 Hz.  I 
turn the main tuning knob so that the received signal is  lower frequency - say 
200 Hz.  I transmit.  What does the station on the other end hear, assuming he 
is also using USB-CW?  Does my beat note go up in his receiver, or down?

When you turn the main tuning knob so that the received signal is lower 
frequency, you are tuning UP in frequency if you are in USB or (in the case of 
the K-3) CW REV mode.  What the station on the other end hears, however, 
depends on his rig and which mode HE is using to listen to you with.  If he, 
too, is using USB mode (or a K-3 in the CW REV mode), he will hear you get 
HIGHER in pitch.  If not, he'll hear you get LOWER in pitch.

It's been my general (statistical) impression, listening to DXpedition 
operators over the years, that if the operator appears to be tuning UP the band 
in small increments he's most likely to be listening in USB (or K-3 CW REV) 
mode, since many of us cut our teeth on that technique when we were neophytes.  
I, for one, much prefer to listen to another station's pitch sliding DOWN in 
frequency as I tune higher in the band.  Thus, I use CW REV in the K-3, and I 
tune from the bottom up. 

So, short answer to your question:  It depends.

Bud, W2RU 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power drop and ERR 12V

2013-01-04 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
Mark --

Having gone through the ERR 12V experience a year ago, I can suggest:

1.  It might the a high resistance in the circuit breaker on the rear panel.
2.  It might be high resistance in the card edge connector pins that transport 
high-current 12VDC for the 100-w KPA3 module into and out of the KPAIO3 which 
is vertically positioned at the rear of the K3.  
3.  There are some other esoteric possibilities that are extremely low 
probability, so I won't go into them.

My circuit breaker was fine, but the contacts on the KPAIO3 board were not 
doing the job.  Elecraft sent me replacement pins for the connectors but in the 
interest of time I simply soldered two short jumpers (#12 or #14 insulated 
stranded wire) across the offending pin-pairs.  It takes longer to describe it 
than to do it.  It's an hour, start to finish, including taking one side panel 
off the K3 to get at the appropriate pins on the KPAIO3 and mating boards.

Support (Gary Surrency) at Elecraft has detailed info and pictures.  

Bud, W2RU



On Jan 4, 2013, at 7:14 AM, Mark Pride mpride...@yahoo.com wrote:

 First time having an issue with my K3 - have the 100 watt module and today, 
 got an error on the display indicating ERR12V and the power dropped.  Had to 
 adjust upward to only reach 12 watts.
  
 Need some guidance from the group - I hope the 100 watt module is not blown.  
 Please advise and thanks!
 
 Regards,
 
 Mark, K1RX 

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Re: [Elecraft] missed market

2012-12-16 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On Dec 16, 2012, at 9:10 PM, Josh Lehan krel...@krellan.net wrote:

 I would love it if such a good radio could be made to work at all
 frequencies...It's
 unfortunate the FCC is requiring purchase of separate devices for
 separate bands.  Unfortunately, there is no technical solution to what is a
 political problem

Sorry, I don't see it as a political problem.  It's a societal problem.  
Far too many CBers are dedicated, consumate law-breakers, and that's been true 
ever since they were first given access to the 27 MHz band.  So I strongly 
support FCC measures to make it harder for that group of outlaws to get access 
to equipment their licenses don't allow them to have.  Admittedly, it was 
stupid to open an ionospheric-skip band to a supposedly line-of-sight service, 
but to call it a political problem is to blame a homeowner for leaving his door 
unlocked when vandals steal from him.  Athe age of entitlement; I love 
it!

Bud, W2RU
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Alpha 87A SWR

2012-08-22 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
On Aug 22, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com wrote:

 You 
 might try engaging the auto tuner in the K3 if you have one. 

Be aware that both the Alpha 87A and 99 manuals tell you NEVER use an 
automatic antenna tuner into or through the [87A or 99].  This will cause 
damage to the Input Wattmeter  Input Relay.

It's largely because of this prohibition that I don't even have a KAT3 in my K3.

Bud, W2RU
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Re: [Elecraft] Ultimatic keying

2012-08-12 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On Aug 12, 2012, at 9:25 PM, Randy Farmer w...@tx.rr.com wrote:

  Does anybody else remember the Squeeze Keyer?

Yep!  Basically, a POO Keyer with single dot insertion. 

Bud, W2RU
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Re: [Elecraft] {K3 KX3} Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting

2012-08-10 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
Yay!  I second that motion, Don!

I've been a fan of Ultimatic mode since it first came out in QST as a vacuum 
tube keyer from a W6 in the mid-50s.  Later I built the transistorized version 
that was in QST in the early 60s.  But nothing's as easy as building a WinKeyer 
kit with it in it!  Steve did all the heavy lifting.

Ultimatic mode also includes dot or dash insertion.  Make a Q, for 
instance, by holding the dash lever closed through the entire character 
formation and flick the dot lever after the start of the second dash to insert 
the single dot.

It's nice to have the K3's built-in keyer when going portable.  But -- like Don 
-- I have a lot of trouble using the Iambic algorithms with dual-lever paddles, 
so at the home station I use a WK2 and when I'm traveling I use a single-lever 
paddle.

Bud, W2RU

On Aug 10, 2012, at 10:21 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Ultimatic is an absolutely wonderful keying mode (and the only one I can 
 use with dual lever paddles).  It gives priority to the last paddle closed.
 In other words, close the dah lever, and you get dahs - but then close 
 the dot lever, and you then get dots even though both paddles are now 
 closed.
 No alternating nonsense.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 8/10/2012 9:49 AM, Ignacy wrote:
 You write K3 keyer does not provide all of the functionality of the WinKey,
 a case in point being the Ultimatic keying mode. What is this mode?
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Software CW in K3 and KX3 and contesting

2012-08-10 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
Hi, Will --

Q was probably not the best choice I could have used to distinguish between 
the two modes.

My biggest problem with Iambic and a dual-lever paddle is the number 2, which 
I do have to send occasionally:-)  It typically comes out as  
dit-dit-dah-dit-dah.

For me, at least, I think the crux of the difference between the two algorithms 
is that I can be sloppier about when I get my thumb or fingers off the first 
lever squeezed on a large number of characters, such as the A, W, J, 1 and N, 
D, B, 6 families.   This timing becomes increasingly critical as sending speed 
increases.  For instance, I can send a 2 quite consistently using dual-lever 
Iambic at slow speeds.

I freely admit that my difficulties with Iambic may be influenced by the 
characteristics of keyers I first used, prior to introduction of the Iambic 
algorithm.  In other words, if your first electronic keyer was Iambic, you may 
not have as much trouble as I with it.   An aside:  One of those early keyers I 
loved, the POO-keyer from K2POO, was a (vacuum tube!) dash priority or dash 
override design -- not so much by deliberate design, perhaps, as by the 
reaction of the analog circuit to having dot and dash contacts simultaneously 
closed.

Ultimately (get that?), I think the answer is this:  If you're perfectly happy 
with the Iambic algorithm in conjunction with a dual-lever paddle, and it's 
making good characters for you, or if you use only a single-lever paddle, stick 
with the Iambic.  If it's giving you fits, however, an Ultimatic keyer might 
be just the ticket for you.

Bud, W2RU


On Aug 10, 2012, at 6:13 PM, Mercury merc...@pooshee.net wrote:

 Maybe I'm missing something, Bud, but I send the letter Q the same way with 
 Iambic B keying. Hold the dah paddle for the duration of the letter and tap 
 the dit at the appropriate place. No need to let up on the dah paddle. Is 
 there some other characteristic that distinguishes Ulimatic from Iambic B? 
 I've never used Ultimatic keying but hear a lot of folks rave about it. I do 
 just fine with Iambic B but mess up big time with Iambic A. To each his own.
 
 73 - Will, AI4VE
 
 Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AGC improvements (MCU rev 4.50 / DSP 2.74)

2012-05-07 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On May 7, 2012, at 10:42 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

 Beta Beta.

Meaning, I presume, it's a beta Beta than the first Beta.

Well, I guess we beta that to death

Bud, W2RU
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Re: [Elecraft] Off list responses

2012-05-03 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
Every mail program I've used on PCs or Macs in the past decade has EASILY 
provided the user the option of Reply and Reply All.  On my Mac's Mail 
program, they're EQUALLY available and right next to each other, so it is only 
a matter of YOU DECIDING which one you want. Far, far easier than the amateur 
radio license exam you had to take at some point.  Perhaps those having trouble 
accessing the Reply All feature on their e-mail programs should consider 
finding a different program.

 If you change Reply on this reflector to mean Reply All, replying to a 
single individual becomes a whole lot more difficult — and circumvents the 
flexibility built into modern e-mail clients.

Changing the meaning of Reply to Reply All is akin to making the A/B 
button on the K3 do the same thing as the A-B button and eliminating the 
A/B function from easy access; pray tell, what is the sense of having TWO 
buttons that do the SAME thing?

Also, I don't think it's the role of anyone on a reflector to suggest to other 
participants that it's not ethical to respond to the original poster off 
line.  If, for instance, a poster has offered up a rig or list of equipment for 
sale, s/he has created a competitive opportunity and I don't believe that my 
response with an offer to buy any of that equipment is anyone else's business 
but mine and the seller's.

There are many reasons for choosing to reply only to the original poster; 
please don't tell me they're not valid for me.   I'd like the opportunity to 
make my own decisions about that. 

Bud, W2RU


On May 2, 2012, at 9:14 AM, Adrian wrote:

 Note: If you click reply at least with outlook, it will address to the
 poster instead of the group address. I have to manually change it to the
 group
 in the to field.
 
 I can use reply all, and that sends to the poster and the group. It would be
 good if the default reply goes to the group, Not sure if that can be
 configured?
 
 Adrian ... vk4tux
 
 -
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Re: [Elecraft] Noise from compressor

2012-04-30 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
Hi, Robby —

The noise is very likely coming from the pulse-width modulation (PWM) circuitry 
that runs the blower motor located in the air handler enclosure (often located 
in the attic or on the top floor of a residence).  In poorly designed and 
shielded circuits the noise can escape from that enclosure out into other parts 
of the A/C system — riding on wiring to the thermostat(s) on the walls and on 
power leads to the outdoor unit.  In one installation I saw, the air handler 
enclosure in the attic provided a very good shield, preventing direct radiation 
from the circuit.  However, the high frequency energy from the PWM was leaving 
the enclosure and radiating to nearby antennas via the thermostat wiring (and 
to a lesser degree, the power wiring to the compressor).

At least one manufacturer sells a kit (priced in the $100-$200 range, plus 
local labor) that is meant to be installed at the air handler by one of their 
authorized dealer's techs.  Whether it's effective or not, I can't say, and you 
might be able to convince them that as a long-time radio amateur you can do the 
installation yourself.

Be very careful about assumptions as to the source of the noise; so much of the 
wiring between the various components of the A/C system is unshielded that it's 
hard to say for sure until you do some detailed sniffing with an AM radio or 
other suitable detector.  I doubt, for instance, that an HF beam can 
distinguish between the direction to the compressor and the direction to 
portions of your interior wiring.   In the system I mentioned above, in that 
residence the peak noise pickup was around the thermostat on a hallway wall on 
the first floor of a two-story (plus attic) building.

You'll probably do better with this kind of question on the RFI reflector.  I 
suspect the K3 is incidental to the issue.

Bud, W2RU

On Apr 30, 2012, at 8:20 AM, Robby.VY2SS wrote:

 Riddle me this!
 
 I have strong interferance since installing an air source heat pump. It is
 most annoying on 20M. It is also present on 40M and 15M. My 40M antenna is
 twice as far from the compressor and the noise on that band  is reduced.  On
 20M is is S3-4. It used to be S1. Here is what I have done in trying to
 eliminate this problem:
 
 1. I removed the 220VAC from the compressor at the breaker panel. The noise
 is gone.
 
 2. I turned the breaker back on and put my indoor units on fan only. The
 noise is gone. I guess this proves the noise is coming from the compressor.
 Also when I turn my beam toward the compressor the noise increases.
 
 3. I disconnected my power supply and connected the K3 to a battery. The
 noise is gone so It is not coming in on the house AC circuit.
 
 4. I disonnected the antenna at the K3. The noise is gone so it seems it was
 coming from the antenna.
 
 5. I reconnect the antenna and turn the RF gain to zero. The noise is gone
 from the speaker but on the waterfall it is NOT gone.
 
 I am hearing a buzz in the speaker or headphones and can see many vertical
 lines on the P3 waterfall. The wider my bandwidth setting the more noticable
 problem but the lines are there for the entire width of the P3 scan. Maybe
 40 lines on P3 display with a 5 khz scan width.
 
 I have tried placing 3 capacitors across the 220VAC terminals where it
 connects to the compressor. LG, LN, NG with no measureable results.
 
 I would be very happy if someone can shed a little light on this.
 
 73,
 
 -Robby
 VY2SS

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net cancellation

2012-02-20 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On Feb 20, 2012, at 9:37 PM, Gary K9GS wrote:

 As Tim, KQ8M mentioned in a later e-mail:
 
 In answer to your suggestion, there already are areas. 3.600-3.650,
 7.100-7.125, 14.100-14.150, 21.100-21.150, 28.100-28.150. During even the
 biggest contests those areas are usually free of contesters.
 
 Why not move the net there?  These respective parts of the band could use the 
 activity plus it would get the Elecraft net out of the part of the band with 
 increasing digital activity.  A win for everyone concerned.

In part because thanks to a really idiotic move by the FCC, 3.6 − 3.7 MHz CW in 
the USA is available only to Amateur Extra Class licensees!  Among other 
things, this keeps many CW traffic nets from moving above a little bit above 
3.6 MHz on weekend evenings to avoid QRM from the various RTTY contests that 
occur numerous times during the year. 

Bud, W2RU
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 TX delay

2012-02-17 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
 when a DX station has come back to 
someone while I'm still sending. 

Finally, with respect to amplifier QSK:  I am aware of five ways of enjoying 
QSK capability when using a separate amplifier:
 1.  PIN diode circuits (Alpha 87A, some Ameritron models, some outboard 
PIN-diode boxes) triggered by the KEY OUT line from the K3
 2.  High-speed reed and vacuum relay combinations (current Alpha models, 
AG6K circuitry, etc.) triggered by the KEY OUT line from the K3
 3.  Electronic bias switching (EBS) in conjunction with a shunt-type 
vacuum tube TR Switch (E. F. Johnson, e.g.) and requiring NO trigger signal
 4.  EBS in conjunction with a separate RX antenna (always with suitable RX 
front-end protection, of course) and requiring NO trigger signal
 5.  Diplexing schemes which don't care if / when the transmitter is keyed

Most important, the clunky, noisy, typically open-frame relays used for manual, 
PTT T/R switching in many amplifiers should NEVER be considered capable of 
being used in QSK mode!  In fact, many of these relays are sufficiently slow 
that they shouldn't even be used in VOX mode because they'll be hot-switching 
RF, even with the delays in the K3.  

PIN diodes and EBS can be VERY fast — with total switching times under 1 or 2 
ms.  Inexpensive reed and vacuum relay circuits typically perform in 2 or 3 ms, 
thanks to the use of speed-up circuit techniques.  With respect to #3 above, 
the maximum voltage out of the RX ANT terminal of a Johnson TR Switch during 
transmitter key-down periods is high enough to trigger the internal RX 
front-end protection circuitry in the K3, so it is not a viable approach, even 
though I have successfully used Johnson TR Switches with Kenwood solid-state 
transceivers for over a quarter century.   

And FAR more than a quarter century ago I began my own ham career with a 
form of #4.  I used a separate receiving antenna and the EBS was very simple:  
all my CW rigs and amplifiers back then were operated in Class C mode, and 
fully cut off during key-up intervals!  

Bud, W2RU 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Winkey Keyer

2012-01-31 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
In addition to all the excellent features of the WinKey already mentioned:

The VERY BEST thing about the WinKey is that it includes the Ultimatic mode!

For my K3 setup, I use a WK2USB with dual-lever paddle (Brown Brothers), but I 
also keep a single-lever Vibroplex paddle connected directly to the K3 paddle 
input for visitors who can only send with Iambic keyers.  

Bud, W2RU


On Jan 31, 2012, at 5:32 AM, Arie Kleingeld PA3A wrote:

 Fred,
 
 The nice thing about the Winkey - paddle in Winkey - N1MM combo is that 
 computer-CW and paddle-CW are the same speed and easily changable by one 
 knob in the winkey. Also, if the computer is keying and I tap the 
 paddle, the paddle immediately takes over and stops the computer-CW.
 This are both very nice features, because I use the paddle in contests 
 for non standard messages.
 
 (Just ran the CQ160-cw from PI4D this way)
 
 73
 Arie PA3A
 
 
 Op 31-1-2012 1:35, Cady, Fred schreef:
 Just plug the paddle into the K3.
 Then the computer can send at its speed and you can send at your speed.
 :-)
 You don't need to plug into the winkey.
 Fred
 KE7X
 
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[Elecraft] K3 RX antenna input protection circuits

2012-01-15 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
I have a question about the receiver front end protection circuits in the K3 — 
specifically, the ones on the RX ANT IN and AUX RF inputs.

When I went to the schematics, here's what I found:

AUX RX feeds the KRX3 Sub Receiver board, where it goes to a gas discharge tube 
(SA1) shunted by 470K.  THe voltage there (schematic name RF SENSE) then goes 
through a 2 pF coupling capacitor to a Schottky Barrier Diode assembly driving 
a Darlington relay driver.  The base of the Darlington is shunted by a 470K 
resistor in parallel with a 10 uF capacitor.

RX ANT IN is on the KXV3 Connector schematic.  It goes to a SPARK GAP (GAP1), 
shunted by 100K.  That voltage then goes to C1, a 2 pF capacitor driving an 
identical Schottky Barrier Diode pair and another Darlington circuit.  The base 
of *this* Darlington is shunted by a 1 Megohm resistor in parallel with a 0.1 
uF capacitor.

So

Is GAP1 the same as SA1?  If so, and ignoring the difference between 470K and 
1M, why is there a factor of 100 difference in the capacitors in the Darlington 
drive circuit?

It seems to me it's going to take 100 times as much charge to forward bias the 
base of the AUX RX Darlington as it is the base of the RX ANT IN Darlington.  

Is there a reason for such a huge difference?  I ask because the RX output of 
my electronic (vacuum tube) TR switch keys the RX ANT IN COR but not the AUX RF 
COR.

Bud, W2RU
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RTTY setup

2012-01-05 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
Hi Juan,

Make sure you the Data Mode set to AFSK A.

73, Bud  N7CW

On Thu, Jan 5, 2012 at 12:55 PM, TG9AJR Juan Munoz tg9...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi,

 I'm trying to setup my K3 for RTTY, I have MMTTY not sure if is the
 best option with SignaLink USB,
 no serial only USB and a laptop with Windows 7 or a Mac OS X.

 I think I had been able to receive and to PTT but no output.

 Any ideas or suggestions will be appreciate, thanks.

 73

 Juan Carlos Munoz.
 TG9AJR
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[Elecraft] K3 PSK-D Split Operation

2012-01-05 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
When in Data Mode PSK-D (31 bps) I get SPL N/A when trying to operate split.
Both VFO's were on the same frequency but could not get VFO B to go up.

What do I need to do to go into split operation in this mode?

Today VK0TH was operating on 28,121 MHz and listening 400 Hz up. 
I just could not get into split mode.

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net

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[Elecraft] Fwd: Re: KX3 Display LEDs

2012-01-03 Thread Bud Morin

1 mm = 1 millimeter = 1000th of a meter
1 mA = 1 milliampere = 1000th of an Ampere
1 mW = 1 milliwatt = 1000th of a Watt
1 mT = 1 millitesla = 1000th of a Tesla
1 mil (shorthand) = 1 milli-inch = 1000th of an inch

This mil has nothing to do with million

73,
Bud Morin, K9ZT



 Original Message 
Subject:Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Display LEDs
Date:   Tue, 03 Jan 2012 00:20:09 -0500
From:   Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
Reply-To:   d...@w3fpr.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net



Unfortunately, one has to be cautious of common technical slang in an
international community.  Yes, common in US machinist's talk is for a
'mil' to equal 0.001 inch.  I am not certain of the origin and even
though I looked it up at Wikipedia, I still don't have any answer to why
'thou' is equal to 'mil' (even though I use and understand that unit
myself).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/3/2012 12:05 AM, Matt Maguire wrote:
  Here a mil is ovbiously not referring to a millimetre, otherwise the LEDs 
 are sticking up 5cm! So, I did a google search, and discovered that in the 
 Imperial measurement system, it can also refer to one thousandth of an inch 
 (0.0254mm).

  That means 50 mils = 1.27mm, which makes much more sense. You learn 
 something every day :-)


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Re: [Elecraft] 4:1 balun

2011-12-10 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On Dec 10, 2011, at 12:38 PM, Paul Christensen wrote:
  I've got new respect for the folded dipole (FD).  The bandwidth of the FD is 
 about 40% better between 2:1 VSWR points than a straight wire dipole.

Yes, and a 3-wire dipole nearly doubles the SWR bandwidth relative to a regular 
dipole.  

As you say, the antenna is not useable on even harmonics but for some, having 
to put up a separate 40-meter dipole is a small price to pay for being able to 
cover a large chunk of 80/75 meters without having to retune an antenna coupler.

Bud, W2RU


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Re: [Elecraft] Safari Problem

2011-10-25 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
Perhaps you have a problem with your installation of Lion.   I have Lion 
installed on my MBP, and Preview opens the Elecraft pdf stuff just fine when I 
use Firefox.  However, Safari seems to work OK, too — I just opened some of the 
pdfs from the Elecraft Manuals  Downloads page with no trouble — they come up 
right inside Safari.

Bud, W2RU

On Oct 25, 2011, at 12:09 PM, Richard Thorpe wrote:

 Since I upgraded to Lion on my iMac I cannot download manuals etc. from the 
 Elecraft website.  When I try to download a PDF doc. it says I need a plugin. 
  I follow the links and download the latest Adobe product but still no joy.  
 I cannot find the plugin it asks for.  Is it me or are others having this 
 issue?  Thank you.
 
 R Thorpe K6CG
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Re: [Elecraft] 21 MHZ no amplification on KPA500

2011-08-13 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
Jim,

Check that your menu CONFIG:DIGOUT1 is set to OFF on 21 MHz.  If it is on,
that will inhibit the amp and give you the _21MHz message.

73, Bud  N7CW

On Sat, Aug 13, 2011 at 6:31 AM, jim danehy jsdan...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have had my KPA500 (# 316) for about a week. Love it. Yesterday I
 downloaded the most recent firmware for my K3. Love the improved
 relationship between the K3 and KPA500. All was well for 24 hours.

 Now ONLY on 21 mhz I have no amplification. Instead of *21 mhz I get _21mhz
 in the readout. All the other bands work fine. It is just 21 MHZ.

 My log shows that I worked at leaset one QSO with no problems with the K3
 and KPA500 after I changed the firmware yesterday. I had plenty of QSOs on
 40, 20 and 18 MHZ. When I went back to 21 MHZ this morning I was surprised.

 I still get 25 to 28 watts showing on the K3 with the KPA500 in the OPERATE
 position. Just no amplification.  I get 100 watts with the KPA500 in
 standby.

 Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 73  Jim W9VNE
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Re: [Elecraft] P3: Span control logic

2011-08-08 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On Aug 8, 2011, at 12:01 AM, Merv Schweigert wrote:

 Not true at all,  I have a FT-1000D sitting here and the shift and width 
 control both operate
 the same direction as the K3.

YOU may have an FT-1000D sitting there, but I don't.  What I said pertained to 
ME and the rigs I named, and was QUITE true.  But your example helps me make 
the point I was originally trying to make.  Read on.


  75A4 switch works 
 counterclockwise
 also,  left to narrow.

The 75A-4 worked whichever way you chose to install the mechanical filters, so 
it was akin to the suggestion that the direction of WIDTH control knob rotation 
on the K3 be user-selectable.  One could just as easily put the narrowest 
filter in the MIDDLE position in the 75A-4.  And it is the exception that 
proves the rule in a long line of fine receivers.  Both earlier and later 
Collins receivers (such as the 75A-2 and the 75S-3) very definitely narrowed 
the bandwidth with clockwise rotation.  Even in the 75S-3B/C (which also had 
user-fillable mechanical filter slots) the narrower CW filter positions were 
clockwise from the wider SSB and AM positions.

But your FT-1000D brings me back to my original point:  Each of us individually 
arrives at the K3 with a unique set of life experiences.  You're comfortable 
with the rotation vs. action of the K3 WIDTH knob, and I'm not.   

From a purely logical point of view, the operation of the WIDTH control on the 
K3 is consistent with other K3 controls such as AF GAIN and keyer SPEED.  I 
doubt any of us would be happy with a backwards speed control.  (I can say 
that because I once owned one, and everyone who tried it hated it!)  

Self-consistent operation of the controls is a nice objective, and quite 
appropriate to test equipment, but it can bite us in a fast-paced, real-time 
operating event such as a contest when it's contrary to habits we have formed 
or is the opposite of what goes on in the second rig of an SO2R setup.  My own 
view is that -- regardless of the habits you or I may have formed or the rigs 
we may have been used to in the past -- the K3's WIDTH knob is fundamentally 
counterintuitive because historically I've never heard anyone say they were 
dialing in bandwidth -- the hams I've been around have always dialed in more 
selectivity on an as needed basis.  In fact, our lingo is replete with 
references to cranking in selectivity or narrower filters.  The analogy to 
mechanical cranks is clear and long-standing, and I know of no mechanical 
cranks that perform their primary function by having their handles turned 
counter-clockwise.  That's the REAL source of my difficulty with the K3 W
 IDTH control.  In effect, it's a cultural pre-conditioning that goes beyond 
the rigs I have or have not had the opportunity to use.

So, from my point of view, the WIDTH knob would be better named the SELECTIVITY 
knob or the FILTERING knob or the NARROWING knob, and it would have the 
opposite action with clockwise rotation as it does today.  But all those names 
are far too long for a front panel as small as the K3's.  Besides, during a 
contest, when it matters, I don't look at the names over the knobs or at the 
little displays that show the bandwidth increasing or decreasing, either.  I 
just try to make contacts as fast as possible.  For that, I agree with the 
person who said it would be really nice if the function of the WIDTH knob was 
user-selectable.

Bud, W2RU

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Re: [Elecraft] P3: Span control logic

2011-08-07 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On Aug 7, 2011, at 9:30 PM, Sam Morgan wrote:

 I see no conflict
 for a *FILTER* knob
 if turned to the right (clockwise) towards the plus sign
 the filter widens (as indicated by the display on the radio)


No, no, no...every filter control I've ever used (until the K3) narrowed the 
filter bandwidth as the knob was rotated clockwise.  Hallicrafters, Collins, 
Kenwood, etc.  That's the one control I am still having trouble with on the K3. 
 It is bass-ackward from anything else.  Heck, when I put a lid on a jar, I 
turn it clockwise to screw it down tighter -- like tightening the bandwidth.

Of course, if you're too young to have used any other radio gear, or if your 
mother always opened the jars for you, I can understand why you might feel as 
you do.

Bud, W2RU
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[Elecraft] K1 operation on 15 meters ... question

2011-07-18 Thread Bud Valcourt
I built a K1 four band about one and a half years ago.
Today, for the first time, I fired it up on 15 meters.
I loaded it into my 40 mtr. dipole by way of a T1 external antenna tuner.
With five watts selected in the K1 menu I have an indication of two watts 
output on a WM2 wattmeter.
When I increase output power on the K1 to five watts on the wattmeter the LCD 
screen on the K1 reads ten bars.
The T1 gives a good SWR ... 1.3:1 or so.
Is this normal for the K1?

Bud,
NY1Z ...
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[Elecraft] Need to Get Prolific Driver

2011-07-10 Thread Bud Morin
Using the Elecraft software link to get the Prolific web site I 
downloaded the file, PL2303_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v1417.zip 
http://www.prolific.com.tw/support/files/%5CIO%20Cable%5CPL-2303%5CDrivers%20-%20Generic%5CWindows%5Callinone%5CPL2303_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v1417.zip
 
. In my folder it does not have the .zip on it. When I double click it, 
up comes a window with a request to select the program to open it. I 
don't have Winzip or anything like it. I find on the Internet a free 
program, 7Zip, which I suppose will unzip my file. Anyone have 
experience with this or something similar. Thanks for your help.

Bud, K9ZT

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Re: [Elecraft] Need to Get Prolific Driver

2011-07-10 Thread Bud Morin
Thanks for their help to: Dick (K6KR), Mike(KS7D), Don(W3FPR), 
Dave(W8OV), and Rich(VE3KI). I have sinned. I did not give enough 
background. I had, for several years, my K3 and logging programs set up 
with an old IBM laptop with Win2000Pro. A few months ago the laptop 
destroyed itself. Everything was backed up on the upstairs computer. Why 
have I not replaced the laptop by now. I was going to buy a new 
superduper modern laptop but did not do so for the following reasons: 
senior senior year, lazy, disorganized, dithering over which computer 
and how much to pay. Recently someone gave me another old IBM laptop 
with Win2000Pro so I thought I would set it up temporarily in order to 
use N1MMLogger for casual contesting and logging. It is now all set up 
except for the Prolific driver. I don't remember how I got the driver 
for the original set up. If it was a CD. I can't find it. I have 
downloaded 7-Zip. The help file is not much help. It reminds me of 
infantry basic training: 1) point piece in right direction, 2) pull 
trigger. So I'll see what happens. Thanks again.

73,
Bud, K9ZT


On 7/10/2011 2:46 PM, Bud Morin wrote:
 Using the Elecraft software link to get the Prolific web site I
 downloaded the file, PL2303_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v1417.zip
 http://www.prolific.com.tw/support/files/%5CIO%20Cable%5CPL-2303%5CDrivers%20-%20Generic%5CWindows%5Callinone%5CPL2303_Prolific_DriverInstaller_v1417.zip
 . In my folder it does not have the .zip on it. When I double click it,
 up comes a window with a request to select the program to open it. I
 don't have Winzip or anything like it. I find on the Internet a free
 program, 7Zip, which I suppose will unzip my file. Anyone have
 experience with this or something similar. Thanks for your help.

 Bud, K9ZT

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Re: [Elecraft] Learning Code, Etc.

2011-06-30 Thread Bud Morin
Reading the various emails on this subject, I can't help but put in some 
of my memories. At age 17 in 1940 I got my ticket with the call W8VHF in 
Detroit, MI. Have never used VHF. Learned the code by using a 2-tube 
regen rcvr to listen to cw on 40 and 80m and by listening to some naval 
stations until I could copy the stuff. Had a buzzer to learn sending. 
Since then I have been using cw about 98% of my operating time. I'm not 
a high speed operator. I remember two guys who were whizzes on cw. One 
was W8CW: I think his name was McDonald, he was a telegrapher for Bell 
Telephone in Detroit, and a runner up to McElroy in cw speed contests. 
The second was Win Peebles, W8GQB, one of my Elmers after I got my 
ticket. Earlier in his life he worked for one of the broadcast stations 
or newspapers copying national and international news sent out by the 
news services. Perhaps it was Press Wireless. He claimed he could do the 
following. Copy the code on a mill, stop and eat a candy bar, get a 
drink from the fountain, and go back to typing where he left off. I 
believe it. By the way one of the emails on this list, or maybe the 
DxLab list, mentioned being trained for maintenance of high power 
transmitters for the navy. When WWII came around the Signal Corps sent 
me to Press Wireless for the same kind of training. However, on arriving 
in the Pacific war, I never got near a big transmitter. That's all folks!

73,
Bud, K9ZT

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Re: [Elecraft] ERR IO3 more!!

2011-05-01 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
1.  Unless you have a shielded power line coming to your house, it's unlikely 
the lightning surge you describe would appear on the telephone line yet go 
undetected by the power lines.

2.  The most probably cause of the damage you describe is that the power line 
ground / entry point, and the telephone line ground / entry point to your 
dwelling were not the same.  I believe your modems (and the other PC hardware 
they were connected to) were destroyed by the _difference_ in the 
lightning-induced common mode voltages on the power lines and telephone lines 
at the point where they connected to your PCs.

I, too, have suffered this kind of damage -- damage limited to those devices 
that are bridged across power and telephone lines.  The solution is to bring 
both (or all) utilities into the house at the same entry point (and your 
antennas and control lines, too, of course), and to make sure the grounds of 
everything are tied together at that point.  You want all your electronics 
equipment tied together in low-impedance fashion (at lightning frequencies -- 
i.e., in the 1+ MHz range) so that everything rises and falls together with the 
surge on the utility lines.  Adding other protection (UPSs, surge suppressors, 
etc.) may be helpful but most of that stuff will be overwhelmed when the two 
utilities feeding your PC and modems are not surging in unison.

Bud, W2RU  


On May 1, 2011, at 7:48 AM, R. Kevin Stover wrote:

 At my former QTH...I lost at least 3 modems to nearby lightning
 strikes, one of which took the computer motherboard, all on-board Ram,
 the video card, and one of two hard drives with it. All of that was
 destroyed by the simple phone line connection. Nothing else in the
 house was destroyed so the surge didn't come in on the power connection.
 
 The lightning strike that did this mayhem was 200 yards away and blew
 up the maple tree it hit. It also induced a large surge in the phone
 lines hanging from the pole next to it.

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Re: [Elecraft] ERR IO3 more!!

2011-05-01 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On May 1, 2011, at 9:25 AM, R. Kevin Stover wrote:

 Even with buried power lines?

Even with buried power lines.  Mine are buried.  Closest pole is 1/2-mile away.

Even with buried telephone lines.  Mine come to me under the lake I'm on.  But 
my phone lines used to come in at one end of my house, and the power lines at 
the other.  They now come in right next to each other -- both still buried all 
the way.  It cost me an excavation contractor to dig a trench for the phone 
company to move the telephone line to come in where my power cable entrance is, 
but after experiencing two separate $3000+ losses in earlier years, I figure 
the cost was well worth it.  Now all utilities (AC power, landline telco, and 
satellite TV cables) enter the house within two feet of each other, and their 
grounds are tied together directly below the AC power meter.  The grounds for 
all my feedlines and outdoor antenna control cables are at this point, also.

The most expensive things in my shack (or maybe my entire house, now that I 
think about it) to replace are my K3 and my amplifier.  The K3 and associated 
computer are fed off the same UPS, as are all accessories that have any 
connection to the K3 or amp (rotator control boxes, 12V DC supply for antenna 
switches, etc.).   I use WiFi to connect all my PCs (but especially my radio 
computer) to the outside world (including my home printers).  For my desktop 
PCs that don't have WiFi built in, I use inexpensive little NetGear USB WiFi 
adapters.  I want no surprises from sneak wiring paths coming to my radio 
equipment. Most of my ethernet cabling that I installed ten years ago is 
currently unused.

The amplifier isn't buffered from surges by a UPS.  The best I can do there is 
my whole-house surge suppressor across my AC mains plus having all my grounds 
in the shack tied together plus having all my exterior wires and utilities 
grounded at the same entry point to the building.  (Well, I could unplug the 
amp, I suppose.)

Today only three things in my home bridge the power and phone lines:  my fax 
machine (which I manually plug into the telephone line only when I'm sending or 
expecting a fax), the base station for my cordless telephone system, and my 
satellite TV receiver.  The cordless base is inexpensive to replace, I wish my 
fax machine would blow up so I would have an excuse to get a decent one, and 
except for HGTV and Wipeout I wouldn't miss the satellite TV at all.   We've 
had at least four major lightning storms come through this area in the past two 
weeks (probably more than we had all last summer!) and there were definitely 
some nearby hits (one second or less from flash to sound).  Nothing seems to 
have skipped a beat here.

Bud, W2RU
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Re: [Elecraft] I did it again!

2011-03-18 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On Mar 17, 2011, at 7:26 PM, VE3HLS wrote:
 How about adding a feature to the firmware such that if you do or don't work 
 a split QSO the split setup is turned off as soon as you tune more than 300 
 Hz away from him?  Pick any number of Hz you like but you get the idea.


Only if it's a set-up OPTION, rather than a fixed change to the f/w.

Some of us with K3s outfitted with the second RX are using Split when we are 
net controls of CW  SSB traffic nets; an extremely convenient way to keep one 
ear on the net frequency while simultaneously checking message-handling 
pairings we have previously dispatched to side frequencies is to start the net 
session with VFO A and VFO B both on the net frequency, but with SPLIT and SUB 
activated.   This allows us to quickly spin the Main Tuning knob to any of our 
side frequencies at any time during the net to check on the progress of 
pairings.   Since we often having pairings up or down 10 or 15 kHz from the net 
frequency, any automatic Split turn-off feature that's suitable for DXers and 
contesters as proposed above would negate the value of the second RX for net 
controlling. 

Bud, W2RU  
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Re: [Elecraft] OT - Vertical Bug

2011-03-15 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
Some of you are old enough to remember that back in the mid 50s my nemesis in 
the old ARRL CD Parties was my fellow Western New Yorker, Keith, W2FEB.  But 
Keith also gave me what is probably a collector's item for my old 
garden-variety Vibroplex bug -- a special weight.

I, too, had a Vibroplex that didn't like to go down low enough in speed to suit 
me.  I, too, tried using _two_ of the standard Vibroplex weights, with 
unexciting results.  I, too, tried wrapping turns of solder around the standard 
weight.

Keith worked at a machine shop in Lockport, north of Buffalo.  He designed and 
fabricated a special weight that was narrower than the the stock Vibroplex 
weight, but had a much larger diameter (and perhaps higher density, as well).  
His primary purpose in designing it was not the lower speed but, rather, the 
desire to be able to change speed without messing around with the knurled set 
screw on the normal weight.  So he built into it a spring-loaded ball bearing 
that kept it in position on the shaft, yet allowed it to be slid farther in or 
out on the shaft with two fingers and a thumb (generally on the same hand).  
Really cool.  (Kewl?)

This is not totally off-topic, since I occasionally hook up my old Vibroplex 
with W2FEB's weight and try sending with a bug using the sidetone on my K3 with 
the VOX disabled.  (I decline to comment on whether I'm keying my amplifier 
when I do that)

Bud, W2RU (ex-K2KIR)
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: email query

2011-03-15 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
If you go to QRZ.COM and type in JM7OLW you will find his post-earthquake 
comments.

JA1NUT has sent multiple multiple e-mails to individuals, and they have been 
circulated on the CW Operators' reflector.  He himself is OK and just recently 
heard that his brother and sister-in-law (and mother) in Sendai are OK.

Bud, W2RU

On Mar 15, 2011, at 9:30 PM, David Yarnes wrote:

 Hi All,
 
 I realize this is OT, and a shot in the dark as well.  Does anyone out there 
 have email addresses for either JA1NUT, or JM7OLW?  These are two guys I 
 talk to fairly frequently, but cannot find either of their email addresses. 
 I had both of them, but that was 2 or 3 computer crashes ago!  Obviously my 
 purpose is concern over their health and welfare.  Everytime I watch the 
 news of late, it's more bad news about how things are going in Japan.  It 
 may be an exercise in frustration even trying to contact them by email, but 
 I'd like to try.
 
 Dave W7AQK
 

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[Elecraft] KPA500 Question

2011-01-25 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
I may have missed this in the various discussions - does the KPA500 use 120
VAC, 220/240 VAC or either?

 

Thanks and 73, Bud  N7CW

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[Elecraft] Teleloops

2011-01-24 Thread Bud Morin
Most U.S. hearing aids have telecoils and teleloops are available. I 
think a company named ClearSounds sells them.

Bud, K9ZT

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Re: [Elecraft] ZLX8 - K3 firmware

2010-11-21 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On Nov 21, 2010, at 9:11 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:
 
 See the bottom screen below and note the red dot and 599 by W6XA on 7010.4:


Wow!  Where did you find a pileup where only one station thought the DX had 
come back to him and was sending a signal report?

Bud, W2RU 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 APF Adjustable Q

2010-10-31 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley
If he's running 5 watts to a coat hanger antenna on a remote island, and you're 
using a 1500-watt amplifier and 3-element beam to go with your beautiful K3, 
the chances are quite good:-)

Besides...the APF feature will help us all be able to copy the /QRP at the 
end of his call.

Bud, W2RU

On Oct 31, 2010, at 1:05 PM, Byron Servies wrote:

 Naive newbie question, because im missing something here: if the
 signal you want is that hard to receive, what are the chances the
 other station will be able to hear your reply?

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Re: [Elecraft] APF For K3

2010-10-24 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On Oct 24, 2010, at 2:59 PM, Bob wrote:

 I found the AF Tune  peaking function in the old Kenwood TS930 to be 
 quite useful.


I'm generally not a fan of using audio peaking filters (in my early years of 
hamming, I spent too much time listening on receivers that had audio filters 
instead of adequate IF filtering), but I grudgingly thought the APF on my 
TS-940 made the difference between readability or not in certain weak signal 
situations on 160 and 80.

Despite its DSP-based audio contouring, I've missed having an APF on my 
TS-950SDX (over a many-year period) and I'm thinking I wouldn't mind having a 
tunable APF on my K3 (which I've had for only a few weeks) as well.

Bud, W2RU
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Re: [Elecraft] New Kenwood TS0-590

2010-10-18 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On Oct 18, 2010, at 10:11 AM, Johnny Siu wrote:

 Believe me or not.  The designer of TS590 also a K3 owner.  I met him in Aug 
 2010 in Tokyo.


I sure hope so!  A good radio designer should be very aware of what the 
state-of-the-art is

Bud, W2RU
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 SUB AF - NOR or BALANCE?

2010-10-13 Thread W2RU - Bud Hippisley

On Oct 13, 2010, at 10:57 AM, Paul Christensen wrote:
 
 The problem for me was having the balance control on the outer concentric 
 ring of the knob set.  

Very true, but I also have trouble getting to the outer concentric ring because 
of my headphone plug to the left of it.

 I modified my K3 so that the top knob set is 
 configured for MAIN AF/RF Gain, with MAIN RF Gain on the outer knob, and 
 MAIN AF Gain on the inner knob.  The SUB AF/RF function is now located on 
 the bottom, with the SUB RF Gain on the lower outer knob, and SUB AF 
 Gain/BALANCE on the lower inner knob.  The ergonomic difference is like 
 night and day.

Excellent

 An even better solution could come from Elecraft through firmware. 

I second that.

Bud, W2RU

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - small power supply 110-240VAC

2010-08-17 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
Jorge,

I like the Samlex 1223.  It operates on 110 or 220, 50 or 60Hz and is very
quiet.  We used them at 9L5A last year for CQWW CW and I have used one at
home for years.

73, Bud  N7CW

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jorge Diez - CX6VM
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 12:37 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - small power supply 110-240VAC

Hello,

 

Do you know about a good power supply for the K3, to be used in any country
and lightweight?

 

Thanks,

Jorge

CX6VM/CW5W 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - small power supply 110-240VAC

2010-08-17 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
I suggested this PS to the 9L5A gang last year and was informed that it
worked fine for casual operation, but did not keep the voltage up during
sustained contest operation.  I'm only the messenger on this one - I have no
direct experience with it.  And the VooDoo Contest Group operations are a
pretty severe environment, so our experience may not apply...

73, Bud  N7CW

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Sverre Holm (LA3ZA)
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 2:22 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - small power supply 110-240VAC


Nothing beats the Gamma Research Power supply when it comes to small size:
1.25 lbs - 0.57 kg. I use it with my K2 for travelling. It takes 100-250
VAC, 50-60 Hz

http://www.gammaresearch.net/hps-1a.html



-
Sverre, LA3ZA

K2 #2198, K3 #3391
http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2/mod.html LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2
modifications 
-- 
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-small-power-supply-110-240VAC-tp5433
673p5434089.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - small power supply 110-240VAC

2010-08-17 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
Jorge,

Yes, we use several of the same supplies for the full 48 hours with no
problems and no RFI.  You must remove an internal jumper wire for 220V
operation.  You can see the eham reviews at
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/ .  I did look at the PowerWerx supply -
it is smaller and rated at 25A and the USA price is within $10.  It is
apparently brand new - it doesn't have a eham review page and it is not in
stock.  So there won't be any reliability or RFI data for a while.

73, Bud  N7CW

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jorge Diez - CX6VM
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 3:40 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - small power supply 110-240VAC

Thanks Bud,

From the manual:  Recommended supply: 13.8VDC @ 25A, continuous duty for
K3/100;

Do you use it full 48 hours without problem during contests?  This is a 23A
PS... Anyway they have another model for 30A.

If the brand is good will consider it.

Here I only find China PS´s!..  and I wantot avoid them

73,
Jorge
CX6VM/CW5W

-Mensaje original-
De: Bud Semon N7CW [mailto:n...@cableone.net] 
Enviado el: Martes, 17 de Agosto de 2010 05:11 p.m.
Para: 'Jorge Diez - CX6VM'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Asunto: RE: [Elecraft] K3 - small power supply 110-240VAC

Jorge,

I like the Samlex 1223.  It operates on 110 or 220, 50 or 60Hz and is very
quiet.  We used them at 9L5A last year for CQWW CW and I have used one at
home for years.

73, Bud  N7CW

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jorge Diez - CX6VM
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 12:37 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - small power supply 110-240VAC

Hello,

 

Do you know about a good power supply for the K3, to be used in any country
and lightweight?

 

Thanks,

Jorge

CX6VM/CW5W 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Edgeport Adapter with K3 and SteppIR

2010-04-01 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
Joe,

You were right!

The Y cable at the SteppIR connector had the other leads of the RS232 
connector connected.

I disconnected all cable leads and left only 2 and 5 cable leads connected. I 
confirmed that 7 and 9 were already 
jumpered.

All is working now using the Edgeport USBSERIAL converter.

Thanks!

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net


- Original Message - 
From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
To: 'Bud Governale, W3LL' w...@arrl.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 12:38 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Edgeport Adapter with K3 and SteppIR



 My K3 serial number is 2285. Not sure if this is early or not.

As far as I know its after the problem was resolved.  However,
you could check the -V generator on the KIO3 board.

 I will check the Y cable. I think there are more than 2 wires
 connected to the SteppIR controller.

Should only be 2 and 5 with a jumper between 7 and 9 (if I recall
correctly).

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV



 -Original Message-
 From: Bud Governale, W3LL [mailto:w...@arrl.net]
 Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 11:37 AM
 To: Joe Subich, W4TV
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Edgeport Adapter with K3 and SteppIR


 Joe,

 I will check the Y cable. I think there are more than 2 wires
 connected to the SteppIR controller.

 My K3 serial number is 2285. Not sure if this is early or not.

 73,

 Bud W3LL
 w...@arrl.net


 - Original Message - 
 From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
 To: 'Bud Governale, W3LL' w...@arrl.net
 Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 11:15 AM
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Edgeport Adapter with K3 and SteppIR



 Bud,

 Also make sure the K3 is able to pull a reasonable load
 to at least -3V.  Some early units had weak DC to DC
 converters and did not necessarily handle the a solid
 RS-232 signal well.

 Make sure your Y cable has only two wires to the SteppIR
 controller as well.  There are additional voltages on some
 pins that can cause an issue.

 73,

... Joe, W4TV


  -Original Message-
  From: Bud Governale, W3LL [mailto:w...@arrl.net]
  Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 10:11 PM
  To: Joe Subich, W4TV
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Edgeport Adapter with K3 and SteppIR
 
 
  Joe,
 
  I completely agree with your analysis.
 
  I'll be in touch with SteppIR for a remedial suggestion.
 
  Thanks and 73,
 
  Bud W3LL
 
 
 
  - Original Message -
  From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
  To: 'Bud Governale, W3LL' w...@arrl.net;
  elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 6:15 PM
  Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Edgeport Adapter with K3 and SteppIR
 
 
 
  Do you have an application (the K3 Utility) that can send a
  command to the K3 and determine if the K3 is responding (e.g.,
  changes mode in response to the MD0;/MD1; commands)?
 
  My guess is that the SteppIR controller loads the data line
  from the K3 to the Edgeport.  That loading is most likely
  too much pull-up current which prevents the K3 from pulling
  the output data line below -3V as required by the RS-232
  standard.
 
  It is likely that the consumer grade Prolific converter
  worked when the data line went below 1V.  The Edgeport
  interfaces are widely used in industrial control applications
  where the noise margin is critical so they adhere much more
  closely to the +/-3V minimum signal level standards.
 
  73,
 
 ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 
 
   -Original Message-
   From: Bud Governale, W3LL [mailto:w...@arrl.net]
   Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 5:19 PM
   To: Joe Subich, W4TV
   Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Edgeport Adapter with K3 and SteppIR
  
  
   Yes, when I disconnect the leg of the Y cable that
 attaches to the
   SteppIR control box and leave the Y cable in place the
 K3 begins
   to respond.
  
   73,
  
   Bud W3LL
  
  
   - Original Message -
   From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
   To: 'Bud Governale, W3LL' w...@arrl.net;
   Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
   Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 5:04 PM
   Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Edgeport Adapter with K3 and SteppIR
  
  
  
   Have you checked the Y cable to make sure it is appropriate for
   the new hardware?
  
   If you disconnect the leg of the Y cable that attaches to the
   SteppIR control box but leave the Y cable in place does
 the K3 begin
   to respond?
  
   73,
  
  ... Joe, W4TV
  
  
  
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bud
Governale, W3LL
Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 1:31 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Edgeport Adapter with K3 and SteppIR
   
   
I have my K3 and SteppIR controller talking perfectly thru the
computer logging program and Y cable using a Prolific USB to
Serial converter cable.
   
I purchased an Edgeport 8 USB to Serial converter and
  removed all
the Prolific cables to existing devices and connected
 all directly
to the Edgeport. All three devices work perfectly.
 However the K3
no longer

[Elecraft] K3 Edgeport Adapter with K3 and SteppIR

2010-03-29 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
I have my K3 and SteppIR controller talking perfectly thru the computer logging 
program and Y cable using a Prolific
USB to Serial converter cable.

I purchased an Edgeport 8 USB to Serial converter and removed all the 
Prolific cables to existing devices and 
connected all
directly to the Edgeport. All three devices work perfectly. However the K3 no 
longer responds to computer control. It's
not recognized by the software.

I discovered that the K3 is recognized and controlled by the software (both 
DX4win and N1MM) when I remove the Y cable
connection to the SteppIR.

If I reconnect the SteppIR controller then the K3 is no longer controlled by 
software.
If I go back to the Prolific USB to Serial cable all works well again.

Anyone know or care to guess why the K3 to SteppIR combination won't work thru 
the Edgeport 8 port adapter or any other
of its 7 other ports?

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net


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[Elecraft] K3 Audio/RFI Feedback

2010-01-19 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
I'm experiencing audio/RFI feedback on 80M between the frequencies of 3650 KHz 
to 3850 KHz using a full-size 80M 
vertical 100' from the radio.
SWR is under 2:1. No difference if I use the built-in ATU.

If I key the K3 and tap the mic once it goes into motorboating with full output 
(100W).

The K3 monitor is set at 0.

If I mute the PC line-in sound card there is no motorboating feedback.
If I reduce the K3 mic setting from 30 toward 0 there is no motorboating 
feedback.
If I reduce the PC line-in volume setting toward 0 there is no motorboating 
feedback.
If I pull out the cable to the PC line-In there is no motorboating feedback.
If I pull out the cable to the PC line-Out there is no motorboating feedback.
At 50W setting the motorboating starts but is not self sustaining.
At 90W setting the motorboating is self sustaining.

Any suggestions on where next to look - or a solution?

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net



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[Elecraft] K3 Sub Receiver forces FSK D to AFSK A

2009-11-12 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
I've always used FSK D mode.

Since updating to 3.57 when I turn on the Sub Receiver the radio goes into AFSK 
A. 

How do I stop the SUB from changing FSK D to AFSK A?

In the past the radio was always in FSK D and the SUB did not change this.

I'm in VFO A and check DATA MD. It says FSK D.

Turn on SUB and check DATA MD it now says AFSK A.

Thanks,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] Shorthand

2009-10-11 Thread Bud Morin
EN was used for an artistic R in he 1940's. I heard them and 
occasionally used it.

Bud, K9ZT


Radio Amateur N5GE wrote:
 On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 14:02:24 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz
 wrote:

   
 Yep, and carried over onto radiotelegraphy mostly for noting the end of the
 press sent to ships, etc.

 I've always used R to denote yes. That's what we used on military CW,
 and I've heard and used it on the ham bands for many, many years. During a
 CW contact when I had excellent copy I'll often start my transmission with R
 R R DE AC7AC...denoting that copy was FB and allowing the important delay
 for those stations who have switches to throw when going from TX to RX. 

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-
 I believe 30 was more commonly used in the press
 wire field and indicates end or end of article.

 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
 elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
 
 [snip]

 In the last year or so I've begun to hear a lot of CW op's sending EN
 to the other station when it is turned back to them.  Is this
 something new or just a cool LID's way to send R for Roger?

 Tom, N5GE

 n...@n5ge.com
 K3 #806, K3 #1055, PR6,
 XV144, XV432, KRC2,
 W1 and other small kits.

 2 W2's on order
 1 K144XV on order

 http://www.n5ge.com
 http://www.swotrc.net

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[Elecraft] K3 No Sub Audio In Right Speaker

2009-10-01 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
How can I have the sub receiver audio play from the right speaker along with 
the main receiver playing in the left 
speaker?
I have no sub receiver audio from the right speaker. I do have audio from the 
main receiver in the left speaker.
Using headphones, I have main in left ear and sub in right ear. I'd like to 
hear the same thru left and right speakers.
What have I set incorrectly?

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net 


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[Elecraft] [Fwd: Re: NR for Dummys]

2009-08-28 Thread Bud Morin
There are others like myself who may be interested in your answers.

Bud, K9ZT


 Original Message 
Subject:Re: [Elecraft] NR for Dummys
Date:   Fri, 28 Aug 2009 04:07:30 -0700 (PDT)
From:   Hector Padron ad4c2...@yahoo.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net



Gary,Jim and Robin,I am pretty satisfied with 3.27 NR and I will answer all 
your questions off the group and also I will send you guys a MP3's for CW and 
SSB  showing how well my K3 works when engaged the NR but right now I a not at 
home,I am at my work office,tonight when I be back I will answer all your 
questions about settings,meantime enjoy your friday,73
 
AD4C


The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. -- 
Albert Einstein

--- On Fri, 8/28/09, Jim Miller KG0KP jimmil...@stl-online.net wrote:


From: Jim Miller KG0KP jimmil...@stl-online.net
Subject: [Elecraft] NR for Dummys
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Friday, August 28, 2009, 5:29 AM


Where can I buy the book?

Let's start with SSB on 3.27 (for me at this time).  Will somebody send me the 
non-factory settings you have changed and what you have them set to that give 
you the what you see as the best setting (at any particular instant).  I know 
this will change by conditions, antenna, location, etc. BUT, I would like 
somewhere to start AND have an idea which settings you change that help you in 
addition to the NR settings.

Is this impossible?

Huge thanks,

73, de Jim KG0KP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and SignaLink USB Interface

2009-08-24 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
Mike and Don,

TigerTronics just introduced a new K3 interface cable that uses the PTT,
Line in and Line Out.  It may not be on their website yet.  It's $25 instead
of $15.

73, Bud N7CW

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, August 24, 2009 3:47 PM
To: Michael M. Raskin
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and SignaLink USB Interface

Mike,

Using the ACC connector will not help a lot - there are no audio signals 
there, so the only applicable input at the ACC connector would be PTT 
IN.  It would seem just as easy to use the PTT RCA jack on the K3 
because you would be connecting to the LINE IN and LINE OUT for audio.  
The LINE OUT is pre-AF gain, you set the level using CONFIG: LIN OUT in 
the menu.

73,
Don W3FPR

Michael M. Raskin wrote:
 Anyone using this combo with the ACC (15-pin) instead of the mic jack?  DX
Engineering, and well as TigerTronics, sell all kinds of pre-made cables but
only a mic cable for the K3.  I'd rather connect to the ACC, as I do with
the IC-7800, where the audio signal is not dependent on the AF volume or mic
gain settings.

 Mike, W4UM
   

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[Elecraft] PSK-D Mode

2009-08-10 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
I made a few PSK31 QSO's today sending in DATA-A mode.

However, I like the apparent benefit to PSK-D mode where there is no need to 
watch ALC levels.

I use FSK-D for RTTY which works very well with no need to watch audio levels.


In PSK-D, I can Key and send PSK. In the monitor I hear what sounds like PSK 
being sent and the wattmeter shows full 
quivering
power out.
However, no one responds to me. I did a test with one station switching back 
and forth between Data-A and PSK-D to prove
the point.
I don't know were the signal is going in PSK-D. It's apparently not on my 
receive frequency or its not PSK31.

Firmware is 3.19 and software is DX4WIN using its PSK31 window.

Maybe I don't understand the purpose of PSK-D.

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net


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[Elecraft] K3 Main Radio plays in Left External Speaker Only

2009-05-18 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
How can I get the main receiver to play from both L  R external computer 
speakers?
The main receiver plays in only the left external computer speakers.

Using firmware 3.11.
K3 audio output is connected to the soundcard input. Soundcard output feeds 
both the computer and auxiliary speaker 
pairs.
Computer plays stereo channels properly in both L  R external speakers.
When Sub receiver is turned on it's audio plays in the right speakers and the 
main receiver plays in the left speakers.
Headphones which are plugged in rear panel play properly with main in both ears
and when sub is turned on it plays in the right ear with the main receiver 
heard in the left ear.
Setting Config: SPKRS to 1 or 2 makes no difference.
What have I set up wrong?

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net 


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[Elecraft] No Receiver Mute with PTT

2009-05-17 Thread Bud Morin
Hi K3 Group,

After many months finally found time to set up my K3 with MH2 
microphone. Got it updated to version 3.11 and operating fine on cw. But 
SSB is no go. Using earphones it seems OK and had a QSO that way. Upon 
removing earphones to use the speaker, WOW, blasted out of room with 
audio squalling when press PTT. Same thing happens with earphones 
connected and hold mic next to earphones when use PTT; not loud though. 
Same thing with zero power or in TEST mode. Have tried various changes 
in configuration but no luck. Don't think the following is connected to 
this problem but have noticed that when turn rf gain down to zero the S 
meter moves all the way up to 80 over S 9 and have been told that on the 
air my voice sounds like too much base. If anyone knows the solution to 
the audio feedback, I would appreciate it if they inform me on what to 
do. Perhaps a another FW download is needed or perhaps a go at parameter 
initialization. Sure hope it is not a hardware.

Thanks for any help.

73,
Bud Morin, K9ZT



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[Elecraft] K3 ERR KEY - Continuous Keying

2009-04-09 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
My K3 display shows ERR KEY when I turn it on. It's been working flawlessly 
until now and no recent changes have been 
made.

1.No programs are running on the computer. ERR Key is displayed on the K3
2.If I shut down the computer the ERR Key turns off partway thru the 
Windows is Shutting Down screen.
3.If I turn on the computer with the K3 on, it keys the transmitter a few 
times then it keys on continuously after 
windows comes up.
4.I disconnected both the RS232 and ACCY cables from the K3 but 
surprisingly the K3 remained keyed with the same 
symptoms.

5.I disconnected the Line Out cable from the K3 and it unkeyed. However, it 
would periodically/intermittently key 
for about half a second on its own.
6.I reconnected the Line Out and the K3 again keyed continuously.
7.I disconnected the Line In cable from the K3 and the K3 unkeyed. However, 
it would periodically key for about half 
a second on its own.
8.I checked both Line In and line Out cables for continuity or shorts. Both 
are OK.
9.I checked the sound card for functionality using a second radio. It works 
properly for both Line In and Line Out.
10.  Both Line In and Line Out cables are stereo cables.
11.  If the K3 is on when windows starts up it goes into key down mode. If I 
start windows with the K3 off and then turn 
the K3 on the K3 displays the ERR Key diagnostic.

I don't understand what Line Out or Line In has to do with keying the 
transmitter.

Any suggestions on what happened and how to fix it? Until now all has been 
perfect.

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and PR6 question

2009-04-02 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
Hi Andy,

There was a fairly long discussion between Wayne, W0MU and myself on this
subject, mostly on the reflector.  The answer was no - you can't use the PR6
(as installed on the radio) inline on the 2nd receiver to monitor 6M while
operating on other bands.

73, Bud  N7CW

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andy GD0TEP
Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 5:57 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and PR6 question

Hello to the group.

I must be missing something in the manual... 

If I use the K3 (and 2nd receiver) with the radio TX on the main, but RX on
the sub receiver that is connected to the antenna via the BNC RX antenna
(with the SUB indicated on the display) is the PR6 pre-amp in line with the
sub receiver or not?

73 Andy
http://www.gd0tep.com


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[Elecraft] K3 FSK Passband Frequency

2009-03-26 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
I'm using FSK-D.
To tune in an FSK signal I need to use Shift to shift the signal to the right 
of the passband display on the K3 
(centered over the right side arrow). This then places the signal in the center 
of the MTTY display. However, received 
signals are now about 0.55 KHz higher than spotted reports. If I click on a 
spot I have to search for the signal. 
Normalizing the K3 passband puts the signals completely out of the receive 
passband and nothing is heard or seen in the 
MTTY display.
Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 FSK Passband Frequency

2009-03-26 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
Hi Ken,

Thanks!!! 

That did it. All is OK now.

73,

Bud W3LL
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ken K3IU 
  To: Bud Governale, W3LL 
  Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
  Sent: Thursday, March 26, 2009 2:55 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 FSK Passband Frequency


  Hi Bud:

  If you make sure that the MMTTY Mark freq is set to the same pitch as the 
Mark freq on the K3, I'm sure you will find that the RTTY signal will appear in 
the center of the MMTTY screen with the K3 passband centered.

  73, Ken K3IU
  ~~~
  Bud Governale, W3LL wrote: 
I'm using FSK-D.
To tune in an FSK signal I need to use Shift to shift the signal to the right 
of the passband display on the K3 
(centered over the right side arrow). This then places the signal in the center 
of the MTTY display. However, received 
signals are now about 0.55 KHz higher than spotted reports. If I click on a 
spot I have to search for the signal. 
Normalizing the K3 passband puts the signals completely out of the receive 
passband and nothing is heard or seen in the 
MTTY display.
Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net 


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[Elecraft] Independent Bands (F/W Vers. 3.03)

2009-03-17 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
I can't figure out how to monitor 6M with the sub-receiver, using my PR6 and
6M antenna on Ant2 (which requires me to have the RX Ant on) and tune on 20M
with the main receiver.  I keep getting the message USE AUX.  Re-reading the
notes, it appears that I can't select this combination or am I missing
something?

 

And the Birdie Buster seems to work great!

 

73, Bud  N7CW

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Independent Bands (F/W Vers. 3.03)

2009-03-17 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
Thanks for the response Mike.  Your suggestion allows me to select Ant2 for
the sub-receiver and Ant1 for the main receiver, but I still can't select
the RX Ant (where the 6M preamp is) for the sub-receiver - it just kicks me
out of the bset menu.

73, Bud

-Original Message-
From: W0MU Mike Fatchett [mailto:w...@w0mu.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 6:37 PM
To: 'Bud Semon N7CW'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Independent Bands (F/W Vers. 3.03)

When you set up the 2nd receiver there was a choice to use the 2nd antenna
on the KAT or the Aux input and install the cable.  There is also a menu
choice you can make.  Set it to Ant2 not aux. 


CC Packet Cluster W0MU-1
W0MU.NET or  67.40.148.194

A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bud Semon N7CW
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 7:29 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Independent Bands (F/W Vers. 3.03)

I can't figure out how to monitor 6M with the sub-receiver, using my PR6 and
6M antenna on Ant2 (which requires me to have the RX Ant on) and tune on 20M
with the main receiver.  I keep getting the message USE AUX.  Re-reading the
notes, it appears that I can't select this combination or am I missing
something?

 

And the Birdie Buster seems to work great!

 

73, Bud  N7CW

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Independent Bands (F/W Vers. 3.03)

2009-03-17 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
Mike,

I think you are correct.  And the HF antenna needs to be connected to the
AUX input.  Seems to work that way, but it's too much trouble to work with.

Maybe Wayne can help out here

73, Bud  N7CW

-Original Message-
From: W0MU Mike Fatchett [mailto:w...@w0mu.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 7:38 PM
To: d...@w3fpr.com; 'Bud Semon N7CW'
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Independent Bands (F/W Vers. 3.03)

Actually that would not work either.

The PR6 is turned on by using the RX Ant button while on 6m.  

The only way I see to make this work is by having the main vfo on the 6m
Freq and the sub on the lower band.

I have the pr6 but have yet to hook it up.  I will be curious to see other
replies.

Mike W0MU 


CC Packet Cluster W0MU-1
W0MU.NET or  67.40.148.194

A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 8:25 PM
To: Bud Semon N7CW
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Independent Bands (F/W Vers. 3.03)

Bud,

You are attempting to receive with the sub-rx on a frequency that is higher
than the main RX is tuned to.
The low pass filters are selected for the main TX/RX, and any signals at the
higher frequency will be attenuated if you are sharing the antenna (or ATU)
for the sub with the main.

The solution (and what the message is trying to tell you) is to use the AUX
RX input to the sub-RX.
If you plan operation as you are attempting, I suggest you re-wire your
SUB-RX antenna to use the BNC connector rather than the unselected antenna
from the KAT3.

73,
Don W3FPR

Bud Semon N7CW wrote:
 I can't figure out how to monitor 6M with the sub-receiver, using my 
 PR6 and 6M antenna on Ant2 (which requires me to have the RX Ant on) 
 and tune on 20M with the main receiver.  I keep getting the message 
 USE AUX.  Re-reading the notes, it appears that I can't select this 
 combination or am I missing something?

  

 And the Birdie Buster seems to work great!

  

 73, Bud  N7CW
   

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Re: [Elecraft] Independent Bands (F/W Vers. 3.03)

2009-03-17 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
Oops, I missed Wayne's response.


Mike,

I think you are correct.  And the HF antenna needs to be connected to the
AUX input.  Seems to work that way, but it's too much trouble to work with.

Maybe Wayne can help out here

73, Bud  N7CW

-Original Message-
From: W0MU Mike Fatchett [mailto:w...@w0mu.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 7:38 PM
To: d...@w3fpr.com; 'Bud Semon N7CW'
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Independent Bands (F/W Vers. 3.03)

Actually that would not work either.

The PR6 is turned on by using the RX Ant button while on 6m.  

The only way I see to make this work is by having the main vfo on the 6m
Freq and the sub on the lower band.

I have the pr6 but have yet to hook it up.  I will be curious to see other
replies.

Mike W0MU 


CC Packet Cluster W0MU-1
W0MU.NET or  67.40.148.194

A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Tuesday, March 17, 2009 8:25 PM
To: Bud Semon N7CW
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Independent Bands (F/W Vers. 3.03)

Bud,

You are attempting to receive with the sub-rx on a frequency that is higher
than the main RX is tuned to.
The low pass filters are selected for the main TX/RX, and any signals at the
higher frequency will be attenuated if you are sharing the antenna (or ATU)
for the sub with the main.

The solution (and what the message is trying to tell you) is to use the AUX
RX input to the sub-RX.
If you plan operation as you are attempting, I suggest you re-wire your
SUB-RX antenna to use the BNC connector rather than the unselected antenna
from the KAT3.

73,
Don W3FPR

Bud Semon N7CW wrote:
 I can't figure out how to monitor 6M with the sub-receiver, using my 
 PR6 and 6M antenna on Ant2 (which requires me to have the RX Ant on) 
 and tune on 20M with the main receiver.  I keep getting the message 
 USE AUX.  Re-reading the notes, it appears that I can't select this 
 combination or am I missing something?

  

 And the Birdie Buster seems to work great!

  

 73, Bud  N7CW
   

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[Elecraft] K3 Transmit thru Line-In

2009-03-05 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
I can't get any transmit audio via the Line-In connector.

Connecting the Mic cable to the rear panel MIC connection produces good 
transmit power and audio.

I know audio is coming from the sound card output because it also drives the 
computer speaker via its line in 
connection.

I tried moving the Mic connector from the rear panel MIC to the Line-In rear 
panel position. This still would not 
produce K3 SSB output.

Moving the Line-In connector to the MIC rear panel connector produces good 
transmit power and audio.

The TX lights each time but no output via Line-In
The K3 is in LSB mode.
TX TEST is in normal.
MIC SEL is RPH
MIC + LIN is ON.
MIC Gain is 30
Comp is 22.

Why can't I transmit thru the Line-In connection?

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net



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[Elecraft] MIC + Line-In Feedback Noise

2009-03-05 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
Thanks to both Eric K3NA and Rich VE3KI, I now have Line-In working.

That leads to a new related issue:

When MIC + LIN is turned ON I get feedback from somewhere when I key with the 
foot switch in SSB without saying 
anything.
If I turn MIC + LIN to OFF the feedback is gone.
I closed N1MM just to be sure it wasn't causing a problem. It wasn't, the 
feedback was still there.

Any suggestions?

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net


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[Elecraft] K3 Line-In Mono

2009-01-10 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
The manual says K3 Line-In is connected to the PC soundcard output using a Mono 
connector.
My PC sound card line output is a stereo connection. It also connects via 
stereo splitters to PC amplified speakers and 
other stereo line inputs using stereo connectors.

Can I use a stereo connector to the K3 Line-In? Alternatives?

73,

Bud W3LL
w...@arrl.net 


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[Elecraft] [K3] Feature Request

2008-10-25 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
The capability to operate CW while in the SSB mode is wonderful.  However,
it does not work when in the Split mode.  This would be a really valuable
feature when operating on 40M in the SSB DX contest (at least for me)
because I have to re-tune the antenna every few kilohertz.  Is there another
way to do this or a reason it can't work?

 

Thanks.

 

73, Bud  N7CW

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[Elecraft] [K3] KRX3 Shipping

2008-10-21 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
For those still waiting, I received my 1 - 2 week shipping notice yesterday
for my KRX3 ordered on Jan. 8, 2008.

 

73, Bud  N7CW

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[Elecraft] K3 Accessory Connector

2008-09-17 Thread Bud Governale, W3LL
When breaking out K3 Accessory Connector leads to RCA jacks, do all return 
connections for PTT, Key Out, ALC, +12Vin, 
Power On, Digiout0 and Digiout1 go to either pins 5 or 12?

Bud W3LL
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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[Elecraft] Re: Side Tone Volume Control

2008-07-28 Thread Bud Morin
If I turn the AF volume up to hear a weak signal, I don't  want the side 
tone volume to go up and blow me out of the chair. Leave it as it is, 
please.


Bud, K9ZT

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RE: [Elecraft] K3: REF CAL does not change for TCXO3 alignment

2008-07-22 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
Guy,

You aren't the first to be caught by this one.  It got me too.  The firmware
doesn't support entering that data yet.  Standby...

73, Bud  N7CW

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Guy, K2AV
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 11:27 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: REF CAL does not change for TCXO3 alignment


K3 alignment in user manual:

Method 3 (1 ppm TCXO Option):
. Locate the CONFIG:REF CAL menu entry.
Tap 1 to change the name to REF xxC.
. Locate the calibration data sheet, which shows
frequency vs. temperature over a wide range.
. For each data point, tap 2 or 3 to select the
calibration temperature, then use VFO A to set
the specified oscillator frequency in Hz.
. Tap MENU to exit the menu.

I have the TCXO3 and the little sheet with the calibration settings.  Unable
to enter settings because tapping 1 doesn't do anything in config.  REF
CAL will not change to REF xxC. The 1 button works for all normal RX
functions. 

I have Firmware 2.11 which came with #1239.  I am doing config in the
technical mode. Tapping the 1 button in config mode briefly points to B VFO,
as if that function was still in effect in config. Any clues as to what I
may be doing wrong?

-- 
View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/K3%3A-REF-CAL-does-not-change-for-TCXO3-alignment-tp577
109p577109.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] [K3] CW Memory Anomaly

2008-07-19 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
I was using the CW memories and decided to adjust the speed while the
message was playing.  Since the Speed/Mic selection was in Mic, I tapped the
knob and the message stopped.  But it didn't switch to Speed.  And when I
tapped the knob again, it plays bits and pieces of the remaining memory.
When it finally finishes (after multiple taps), it switches to Speed and
everything works normally.   If I press the memory button again, it chains
the remaining message with what is in the memory, finishes the message and
then everything works ok (although I still have to tap Speed/Mic again to
get to Speed).  This is probably not a serious problem, but it's probably a
software bug.

 

73, Bud  N7CW

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RE: [Elecraft] K3 Output Isolation

2008-07-19 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
Tom,

I have my 6M antenna on ANT 2 and whatever HF antenna on ANT 1 all the time.
I have never seen the HF wattmeter even wiggle.  The lowest power scale I
have on the power meter is 100 Watts, though.  I just ran a couple tests,
running 100 W on 6M and connected various antennas to ANT 1, including a
dummy load and an open.  No movement.  Just a data point...

73 Bud N7CW

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tom Childers, N5GE
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 10:49 AM
To: Elecraft Discussion List
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Output Isolation

I just installed a new direct feedline on my 6m Yagi and hooking it up to
Antenna 2.  When I tested it I was horrified when I saw infinity SWR on my
W1
power meter.  Then I realized the watt meter was not in the 6m feedline and
the
rig was happily displaying a 1:1 SWR.

Hmm, that means there is output on ANT 1 when ANT 2 is selected.  I switched
the
ANT 1 connection to a dummy load and the W1 was showing .1 watt output from
ANT1
with a 1.2:1 SWR.

Is my Factory rig #806 the only rig with this leakage or is it a known
issue? If
so is there a fix for it?

Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq

Those who would give up 
Essential Liberty to 
purchase a little Temporary 
Safety deserve neither 
Liberty nor Safety 

An excerpt from a letter 
written in 1755 from the 
Assembly to the Governor 
of Pennsylvania.

Support the entire Constitution, not 
just the parts you like.

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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[Elecraft] [K3] RIT Operation Question

2008-07-14 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
When I have the RIT on and I press CLR, the RIT is cleared.  So far so good.
When I press CLR again, the original offset reappears.  I would expect that
pressing CLR a second time would just verify the frequency delta is 0.  If I
want to switch between an offset and none, I can turn the RIT on and off.
Is there a feature here that I'm missing?

 

Thanks and 73, Bud  N7CW

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RE: [Elecraft] [K3] RIT Operation Question

2008-07-14 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
Brett and Don,

I wasn't really complaining - it just didn't make sense to me.  I should
have remembered to RTFM.  Thanks for reminding me.  Now to figure out how to
use that feature to make working DX easier...

73, Bud  N7CW

-Original Message-
From: Brett Howard [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 8:13 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Bud Semon N7CW; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] RIT Operation Question

It should also be noted that holding clr zero's the offset but adds the
offset to the current VFO freq.

On Mon, 2008-07-14 at 23:04 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 Bud,
 
 It works just like the manual states.  Tap CLR to zero the RIT/XIT 
 offset.  Tapping it a second time restores the offset. - see the manual 
 page 22.
 
 While your comment makes some sense, this is the first time I have heard 
 anyone complain about teh original operation of the CLR control.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 Bud Semon N7CW wrote:
  When I have the RIT on and I press CLR, the RIT is cleared.  So far so
good.
  When I press CLR again, the original offset reappears.  I would expect
that
  pressing CLR a second time would just verify the frequency delta is 0.
If I
  want to switch between an offset and none, I can turn the RIT on and
off.
  Is there a feature here that I'm missing?
 

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RE: [Elecraft] [K3] AGC

2008-07-07 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
I have the CONFIG: AGC SLP parameter set to 15 also and I think it is not
aggressive enough - that is, the volume difference is too large between weak
and strong signals.

73, Bud N7CW

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Cunnings
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2008 7:18 AM
To: S Sacco
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] AGC

Have you tried adjusting the CONFIG:AGC SLP parameter? I've set mine
to the maximum value, 15, for flattest AGC slope.

Bob NW8L

On Mon, Jul 7, 2008 at 8:13 AM, S Sacco [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 OK, now that I'm slowly getting my station rebuild to the point where
 I'm operating my K3 on a regular basis, I'm noticing that the AGC
 seems to be kind of sub-optimal.  There are large differences in audio
 volume when receiving different strength signals.   I have not been
 directly comparing the K3 to another receiver, but it keep surprising
 me (in a bad way).  On a couple of occasions, I had to rip off my
 headphones, because it was faster than reaching for the volume
 control.

 I seem to remember this being somewhat of an issue with earlier
 firmware versions, but I'm running 2.13 at this time.

 Is anyone else having this issue?

 73,
 Steve NN4X
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RE: [Elecraft] Split ops?

2008-07-04 Thread Bud Semon N7CW
Hi Tom,

You need to tap A=B twice to transfer all the parameters, freq, mode, etc.

73, Bud  N7CW

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of TMorton
Sent: Friday, July 04, 2008 8:56 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Split ops?

When making the selection AB then holding Split I notice that the 
mode stays where it last was...i.e., 14005 on A and 14180 on B; after 
AB the B vfo is 14005 but remains in USB. I have looked thru the menu 
selections and can not find anything to have the modes match after doing 
AB...have I missed something? If not, why not match freq and mode?
73
Tom
CX7TT
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