[Elecraft] K1

2014-11-17 Thread w1dwz w1dwz
Thanks to all who have helped me here on the Reflector  ,  maturing   as a
ELECRAFT  Newbie  

One more query.
Using  ( 2 )2 -channel filter  boards   , instead of the   4 channel
board which is no longer available  , I am confused as to how to configure
the channel  #'s  of them.
It seems to me that each board should be set up  with   b1  and b2   on
each boardand not b1 ,  b2   on one board   ,  and   b3  , and
b4   on the other  .Is that a good assumption  ?
the manual is a little sketchy  on this.

Dave W1DWZ
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Re: [Elecraft] K1

2014-11-17 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

When the K1 detects a 2 band board, it will only show b1 and b2. You 
will have to set those two parameters each time you change the board.


The frequency offsets are remembered for each band, so unless there is a 
duplication of a band between the two boards, you will not have to 
change the offsets.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/17/2014 1:06 PM, w1dwz w1dwz wrote:

Thanks to all who have helped me here on the Reflector  ,  maturing   as a
ELECRAFT  Newbie  

One more query.
Using  ( 2 )2 -channel filter  boards   , instead of the   4 channel
board which is no longer available  , I am confused as to how to configure
the channel  #'s  of them.
It seems to me that each board should be set up  with   b1  and b2   on
each boardand not b1 ,  b2   on one board   ,  and   b3  , and
b4   on the other  .Is that a good assumption  ?
the manual is a little sketchy  on this.




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[Elecraft] K1 Power Out flaky

2014-11-15 Thread w1dwz w1dwz
I am an  ELECRAFT Newbie. Just finished  a K! and it works great  out
of the box. I am slowly learning the operating stunts with the TAP  /
HOLD   feature .
One little glitch . To set  the output power  , it sets properly , say at
4.0 Watts,   with the   WPM  +/-   buttons  ,  but after a few seconds
it dribbles around and goes down to   0.5 Watts or whatever Tweaked the
cans on the Filter Board  but still NG  .Wonder if others have
experienced this anomaly.   Dave   W1DWZ  RI
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Power Out flaky

2014-11-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Dave,

That sounds like the behavior of an unsoldered or poorly soldered 
connection that is heating when you transmit.  I don't know where to 
tell you to start looking, but if you want to shorten the search, you 
might be able to tell something from the Transmit Signal Tracing steps 
in the back of the manual.  It has a chance of leading you to the 
failing stage and then you can examine that stage in detail.


Alternately, you can reflow the soldering over the entire RF Board with 
a hot (750 degF) iron and dwell on each connection long enough to watch 
the solder melt and flow.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/15/2014 11:02 AM, w1dwz w1dwz wrote:

I am an  ELECRAFT Newbie. Just finished  a K! and it works great  out
of the box. I am slowly learning the operating stunts with the TAP  /
HOLD   feature .
One little glitch . To set  the output power  , it sets properly , say at
4.0 Watts,   with the   WPM  +/-   buttons  ,  but after a few seconds
it dribbles around and goes down to   0.5 Watts or whatever Tweaked the
cans on the Filter Board  but still NG  .Wonder if others have
experienced this anomaly.   Dave   W1DWZ  RI



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[Elecraft] K1 FOR SALE

2014-11-10 Thread Tomy
Nice looking and working Elecraft QRP K1 with the KFL1-4 band filter board 
installed, 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters. It will not transmit on 15m. I talked 
with Don w3fpr and after a voltage check he thought that the bandpass filters 
needed to be adjusted. Works great on all other bands. Output is 0.1-7 watts 
Serial number 3015. Comes with the Lighted Dial, KAT1 Auto Antenna tuner and 
all the original manuals. $350.00 shipped CONUSA. Call Tomy at 928-710-9231, 
kf...@arrl.net
73! Tomy KF7GC
AZ STM 
NM AZ Section Net
ORS
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[Elecraft] WTB: Elecraft K1

2014-10-30 Thread Steve Ireland
G’day

After my earlier ad for a basic Elecraft K1 (no extras) two-bander covering 40m 
and 20m, it was suggested to me off-list that I was cutting down my options and 
it would be better simply asking if there was anyone who had had a Elecraft K1 
of any kind for sale. I think the writer had a point.

Please email me direct if you have a K1 that you are interested in selling.

Thank you!

Vy 73

Steve, VK6VZ (Glen Forrest, Western Australia)

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[Elecraft] WTB: Basic Elecraft K1 for 40m + 20m

2014-10-29 Thread Steve Ireland
G’day

I am looking for a basic Elecraft K1 (no extras) two-bander covering 40m and 
20m. Please email me direct if you have one that you are interested in selling.

Thank you!

Vy 73

Steve, VK6VZ

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 IF Amp Mod?

2014-10-19 Thread Mike Morrow
Curt wrote:

 I thought the K1 was the commercial version of the Sierra.

The...er...Sierra is the commercial version of the Sierra.  :-)
It's still sold by Wilderness Radio.

The Sierra is rather different from the K1.  Not least difference
being the four PIC controllers found in the K1/KFL1/KAT1/KNB1 combo,
and none in the Sierra.  It has always amazed me how non-existent
digital noise is in the K1.

There's an interesting article about the Sierra, with schematic showing
the IF stage design that is at the root of this thread, found here:

 http://www.arrl.org/files/file/Technology/tis/info/pdf/96hb1789.pdf

 Didn't the Sierra predate Elecraft?

Sierra = 1994, Elecraft = 1998, K1 = 2000

 BTW, the K1 is about the neatest QRP radio I own...

I agree.  It's sad to see its current reduced status in the Elecraft
catalog...but it *is* 14 years old.  Few other ham rigs besides
those from Elecraft survive for such long runs.

I'd give up almost every ham rig I've ever owned before I'd let my
K1 #175 get away.  I'm also pretty attached to three of Dave Benson's
DSW-series that I built.   Like the DSW's, when the K1 finally goes
away completely, many will count themselves lucky to own one,
especially if it has the four-band filter board.  At least the KX1
is still available for those who want a DDS QRP rig...but there's
nothing exactly comparable to the K1.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 IF Amp Mod?

2014-10-19 Thread Rick Dettinger
Maybe not.
The Sierra has been shown on the Wilderness Radio website as out of stock for 
quite a while now.
Too bad.  It was a very versatile kit.


73,
Rick Dettinger  K7MW





On Oct 19, 2014, at 11:02 AM, Mike Morrow wrote:
 
 The...er...Sierra is the commercial version of the Sierra.  :-)
 It's still sold by Wilderness Radio.
 

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[Elecraft] K1 IF Amp Mod?

2014-10-18 Thread Curt
I thought the K1 was the commercial version of the Sierra.  Didn't the 
Sierra predate Elecraft?


BTW, the K1 is about the neatest QRP radio I own, even above my K2.  I've 
built boards for every band 80M-10M, especially enjoy working from the patio 
@ 1W into an EFHW on 20M.  It's my go to rig for QRP contests.


73, Curt KB5JO



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[Elecraft] K1 and Cumbria Designs X-Lock

2014-10-17 Thread Joe W2KJ
Howdy fellow Elecrafters.

Would like to get in contact with anyone out there who has interfaced a Cumbria 
Designs X-Lock VFO stabilizer with a K1.

73, Joe W2KJ
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 and Cumbria Designs X-Lock

2014-10-17 Thread Don Wilhelm

Joe,

I have not tried it, but Davbe G4AON has written a paper on his 
installation. You can see it at

http://www.cumbriadesigns.co.uk/images/X-Lock%20K1/X-Lock_K1.pdf.

It looks straightforward enough to me.  I would think you would have to 
adjust the VFO range after installation, but that is easy enough to do, 
just change the turns spacing on L1.


There are several reviews on eHam - http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/8437

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/17/2014 9:48 AM, Joe W2KJ wrote:

Howdy fellow Elecrafters.

Would like to get in contact with anyone out there who has interfaced a Cumbria 
Designs X-Lock VFO stabilizer with a K1.




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 and Cumbria Designs X-Lock

2014-10-17 Thread Phil Wheeler

Oh no -- I'm not yet done with my K1, it appears.

I wondered why the pdf file below showed no photos 
with the mounting of the board in the K1; then I 
read For the time being it is working perfectly 
while wrapped in bubble wrap! :-)


73, Phil W7OX

On 10/17/14, 7:21 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Joe,

I have not tried it, but Davbe G4AON has written 
a paper on his installation. You can see it at
http://www.cumbriadesigns.co.uk/images/X-Lock%20K1/X-Lock_K1.pdf. 



It looks straightforward enough to me.  I would 
think you would have to adjust the VFO range 
after installation, but that is easy enough to 
do, just change the turns spacing on L1.


There are several reviews on eHam - 
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/8437


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/17/2014 9:48 AM, Joe W2KJ wrote:

Howdy fellow Elecrafters.

Would like to get in contact with anyone out 
there who has interfaced a Cumbria Designs 
X-Lock VFO stabilizer with a K1.





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Re: [Elecraft] K1 and Cumbria Designs X-Lock

2014-10-17 Thread Don Wilhelm

Phil,

Scroll down a bit and you will see the photos - unless you have 
something lacking in the .pdf viewer in your browser - in that case, 
download the link by right clicking and choose save file as then open 
it with Adobe Reader.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/17/2014 11:12 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

Oh no -- I'm not yet done with my K1, it appears.

I wondered why the pdf file below showed no photos with the mounting 
of the board in the K1; then I read For the time being it is working 
perfectly while wrapped in bubble wrap! :-)


73, Phil W7OX

On 10/17/14, 7:21 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Joe,

I have not tried it, but Davbe G4AON has written a paper on his 
installation. You can see it at

http://www.cumbriadesigns.co.uk/images/X-Lock%20K1/X-Lock_K1.pdf.

It looks straightforward enough to me.  I would think you would have 
to adjust the VFO range after installation, but that is easy enough 
to do, just change the turns spacing on L1.


There are several reviews on eHam - 
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/8437


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/17/2014 9:48 AM, Joe W2KJ wrote:

Howdy fellow Elecrafters.

Would like to get in contact with anyone out there who has 
interfaced a Cumbria Designs X-Lock VFO stabilizer with a K1.





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Re: [Elecraft] K1 and Cumbria Designs X-Lock

2014-10-17 Thread EricJ
I noticed the same thing that Phil did. Three photos show up. Not one of 
them shows the X-Lock in or out of bubble wrap. The hookup photos were 
less interesting to me at this point than how he was able to stuff it in 
the K1.


Eric
KE6US

On 10/17/2014 8:28 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Phil,

Scroll down a bit and you will see the photos - unless you have 
something lacking in the .pdf viewer in your browser - in that case, 
download the link by right clicking and choose save file as then 
open it with Adobe Reader.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/17/2014 11:12 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

Oh no -- I'm not yet done with my K1, it appears.

I wondered why the pdf file below showed no photos with the mounting 
of the board in the K1; then I read For the time being it is working 
perfectly while wrapped in bubble wrap! :-)


73, Phil W7OX

On 10/17/14, 7:21 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Joe,

I have not tried it, but Davbe G4AON has written a paper on his 
installation. You can see it at

http://www.cumbriadesigns.co.uk/images/X-Lock%20K1/X-Lock_K1.pdf.

It looks straightforward enough to me.  I would think you would have 
to adjust the VFO range after installation, but that is easy enough 
to do, just change the turns spacing on L1.


There are several reviews on eHam - 
http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/8437


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/17/2014 9:48 AM, Joe W2KJ wrote:

Howdy fellow Elecrafters.

Would like to get in contact with anyone out there who has 
interfaced a Cumbria Designs X-Lock VFO stabilizer with a K1.





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[Elecraft] K1 IF Amp Mod?

2014-10-17 Thread r j
Hi.

I have noticed that the K1 and Sierra rcvrs are very similar (as 602 based
designs). The main difference is imo that the Sierra has a MC1350 IF amp
(as has the K2 btw) followed by an LM386, but the K1 seems to do all
amplification after XFIL on AF frequencies using LM386+LM380.

Could/have the K1 be(en) modified with an IF amp and IF based AGC?

Thanks.
Roy
RF Tinkerer
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 IF Amp Mod?

2014-10-17 Thread WILLIS COOKE via Elecraft
Since you consider yourself as an RF tinkerer, it sounds like an interesting 
experiment.  Since the technology in the K1 predates my interest in Elecraft, 
probably the up to date inclusions in the Sierra were not available when the K1 
was designed 20 years  or so ago.  The K3 design is not getting long of tooth 
and the KX3 is the ultimate QRP design from Elecraft.  It does not sound like a 
design change that will make Wayne and Erik any money!
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


On Friday, October 17, 2014 1:16 PM, r j rjinsp...@gmail.com wrote:
 


Hi.

I have noticed that the K1 and Sierra rcvrs are very similar (as 602 based
designs). The main difference is imo that the Sierra has a MC1350 IF amp
(as has the K2 btw) followed by an LM386, but the K1 seems to do all
amplification after XFIL on AF frequencies using LM386+LM380.

Could/have the K1 be(en) modified with an IF amp and IF based AGC?

Thanks.
Roy
RF Tinkerer
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 IF Amp Mod?

2014-10-17 Thread r j
... probably the up to date inclusions in the Sierra were not available
when the K1 was designed 20 years  or so ago...

The Sierra predates the K1. The NE602 mixer and MC1350 IF amp was in common
use long before the Sierra was designed and even longer before Elecraft was
formed. Elecraft used MC1350 in K2, but chose to substitute it with all AF
amplification in K1.

When - one day - the K3 and all IcoYaeWoods are irrepairable junk (due to
special technology/chips/firmware), you can always rip apart your dead and
dusty K1 or K2, throw away the microcontroller and the display, put in a
few jumpers on the RF boards, and voila - you have an all analog radio that
you can repair from your component junk box and (then) obsolete fleabay
ICs. In the exact same way as people do 50+ years old tubes today.


 No surprise. Yes, I know. That is why I wonder why the IF amp was
changed for an AF amp.

Roy
RF Tinkerer


On Sat, Oct 18, 2014 at 1:12 AM, r j rjinsp...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi.

 I have noticed that the K1 and Sierra rcvrs are very similar (as 602 based
 designs). The main difference is imo that the Sierra has a MC1350 IF amp
 (as has the K2 btw) followed by an LM386, but the K1 seems to do all
 amplification after XFIL on AF frequencies using LM386+LM380.

 Could/have the K1 be(en) modified with an IF amp and IF based AGC?

 Thanks.
 Roy
 RF Tinkerer



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 IF Amp Mod? Some history.

2014-10-17 Thread Mike Morrow
 ...were not available when the K1 was designed 20 years or so ago.

That's a pretty fanciful date to just pick out of thin air!  :-)

There wasn't anything that was Elecraft 20 years ago.  The K1 was shown
first at Dayton 2000, after which many of us ordered one.  The first
deliveries to the mass unwashed customer base were made in October, 2000,
after a wait of more than five months.

I got No. 175 in November, 2000.  Not 1994!

It's already been noted that the Sierra (also designed by Wayne/N6KR) came
out long before the K1...in fact...in 1994.  So there's your 20 years!

Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 IF Amp Mod? Some history.

2014-10-17 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
More history - Elecraft was formally created July of 1998. (We began working on 
the K2 design well before that.)


We shipped the first 100 K2 Field Test Units January and Feb. of 1999.  We took 
orders for production K2 kits at Dayton in May of 1999.


We followed that with the K1, then the KX1, the K3, and most recently the KX3.

73,

Eric
elecraft.com

On 10/17/2014 5:40 PM, Mike Morrow wrote:

...were not available when the K1 was designed 20 years or so ago.

That's a pretty fanciful date to just pick out of thin air!  :-)

There wasn't anything that was Elecraft 20 years ago.  The K1 was shown
first at Dayton 2000, after which many of us ordered one.  The first
deliveries to the mass unwashed customer base were made in October, 2000,
after a wait of more than five months.

I got No. 175 in November, 2000.  Not 1994!

It's already been noted that the Sierra (also designed by Wayne/N6KR) came
out long before the K1...in fact...in 1994.  So there's your 20 years!

Mike / KK5F

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 IF Amp Mod? Some history.

2014-10-17 Thread r j
Well ... Thanks for the history. One can also look at Elecraft's website

http://www.elecraft.com/about_elecraft.htm


But my question remains: Why did the (very early) Sierra and the (first
Elecraft product) K2 have IF amp (MC1350 - and of course the standard AF
amp LM386), but the K1 was equipped with no IF amp but two AF amps (LM386
and LM380) and an accordingly somewhat problematic AF based AGC.

Thanks.
Roy
RF Tinkerer

On Sat, Oct 18, 2014 at 8:34 AM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft 
e...@elecraft.com wrote:

 More history - Elecraft was formally created July of 1998. (We began
 working on the K2 design well before that.)

 We shipped the first 100 K2 Field Test Units January and Feb. of 1999.  We
 took orders for production K2 kits at Dayton in May of 1999.

 We followed that with the K1, then the KX1, the K3, and most recently the
 KX3.

 73,

 Eric
 elecraft.com


 On 10/17/2014 5:40 PM, Mike Morrow wrote:

 ...were not available when the K1 was designed 20 years or so ago.

 That's a pretty fanciful date to just pick out of thin air!  :-)

 There wasn't anything that was Elecraft 20 years ago.  The K1 was shown
 first at Dayton 2000, after which many of us ordered one.  The first
 deliveries to the mass unwashed customer base were made in October, 2000,
 after a wait of more than five months.

 I got No. 175 in November, 2000.  Not 1994!

 It's already been noted that the Sierra (also designed by Wayne/N6KR)
 came
 out long before the K1...in fact...in 1994.  So there's your 20 years!

 Mike / KK5F

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 IF Amp Mod? Some history.

2014-10-17 Thread Don Wilhelm

Roy,

I think one of the reasons for the change from the MC1350 to the NE612 
followed by the LM386 was due to the fact that when the K1 was designed, 
the MC1350 in its DIP format was not to be used for current designs.  
Yes, the MC1350 is still available in SMD format, and Elecraft has 
designed a carrier board that allows its use in the DIP format holes 
(for the K2 ongoing support).


To redesign the the K1 to use the MC1350 would be challenging.  The AGC 
system would have to be changed to use that part.  There is nothing 
wrong with the dual NE612 designs - there are several out there, and 
they perform quite nicely.


BTW - the K2 used the LM380-8 audio amplifier, not the LM386.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/17/2014 9:50 PM, r j wrote:

Well ... Thanks for the history. One can also look at Elecraft's website

http://www.elecraft.com/about_elecraft.htm


But my question remains: Why did the (very early) Sierra and the (first
Elecraft product) K2 have IF amp (MC1350 - and of course the standard AF
amp LM386), but the K1 was equipped with no IF amp but two AF amps (LM386
and LM380) and an accordingly somewhat problematic AF based AGC.

Thanks.
Roy
RF Tinkerer

On Sat, Oct 18, 2014 at 8:34 AM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft 
e...@elecraft.com wrote:


More history - Elecraft was formally created July of 1998. (We began
working on the K2 design well before that.)

We shipped the first 100 K2 Field Test Units January and Feb. of 1999.  We
took orders for production K2 kits at Dayton in May of 1999.

We followed that with the K1, then the KX1, the K3, and most recently the
KX3.

73,

Eric
elecraft.com




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 IF Amp Mod? Some history.

2014-10-17 Thread r j
Yep - the K2 uses LM380, but the Sierra uses only an LM386 as headphone
amp. My  ill formulated sentence. But it doesn't matter - its all AF dBs.

My point is that the Sierra and the K2 uses an IF amp MC1350 before the
product detector 602 (612, NE, SA ...), and gets a 'proper' AGC. The K2 is
of course a better design since it uses a TUF-1 mixer (w. pre- and post
amp) in stead of the 602 mixer.

But the K1 - a later design then the Sierra and K2 - is imo one step back
and down by not having an IF amp. The main rcvr guts of the K1 looks
something like:

602 MIXER - XFIL - 602 PROD DET - LM386 AF PRE AMP - LM380 AF POWER AMP

There is no IF amplification, and the AGC is based on the very slow CW AF
signal.

Anyway - it is a piece of cake to mod the K1. Quite a few of the other QRP
rigs (in addition to the Sierra) from the period are 602-1350-602. I just
wanted to know why they chose the all AF way. I guess someone has asked
before - but the answer is imo not all clear.

http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/RE-Re-K1-AGC-time-constant-and-how-to-radically-improveK1-AGC-td388515.html

Roy
RF Tinkerer

On Sat, Oct 18, 2014 at 9:37 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Roy,

 I think one of the reasons for the change from the MC1350 to the NE612
 followed by the LM386 was due to the fact that when the K1 was designed,
 the MC1350 in its DIP format was not to be used for current designs.
 Yes, the MC1350 is still available in SMD format, and Elecraft has designed
 a carrier board that allows its use in the DIP format holes (for the K2
 ongoing support).

 To redesign the the K1 to use the MC1350 would be challenging.  The AGC
 system would have to be changed to use that part.  There is nothing wrong
 with the dual NE612 designs - there are several out there, and they
 perform quite nicely.

 BTW - the K2 used the LM380-8 audio amplifier, not the LM386.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 10/17/2014 9:50 PM, r j wrote:

 Well ... Thanks for the history. One can also look at Elecraft's website

 http://www.elecraft.com/about_elecraft.htm


 But my question remains: Why did the (very early) Sierra and the (first
 Elecraft product) K2 have IF amp (MC1350 - and of course the standard AF
 amp LM386), but the K1 was equipped with no IF amp but two AF amps (LM386
 and LM380) and an accordingly somewhat problematic AF based AGC.

 Thanks.
 Roy
 RF Tinkerer

 On Sat, Oct 18, 2014 at 8:34 AM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft 
 e...@elecraft.com wrote:

  More history - Elecraft was formally created July of 1998. (We began
 working on the K2 design well before that.)

 We shipped the first 100 K2 Field Test Units January and Feb. of 1999.
 We
 took orders for production K2 kits at Dayton in May of 1999.

 We followed that with the K1, then the KX1, the K3, and most recently the
 KX3.

 73,

 Eric
 elecraft.com




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 IF Amp Mod? Some history.

2014-10-17 Thread Phil Wheeler

Hmm .. so where is the KX2, Eric? :-)

73, Phil W7OX

On 10/17/14, 6:34 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, 
Elecraft wrote:
More history - Elecraft was formally created 
July of 1998. (We began working on the K2 design 
well before that.)


We shipped the first 100 K2 Field Test Units 
January and Feb. of 1999.  We took orders for 
production K2 kits at Dayton in May of 1999.


We followed that with the K1, then the KX1, the 
K3, and most recently the KX3.


73,

Eric
elecraft.com

On 10/17/2014 5:40 PM, Mike Morrow wrote:
...were not available when the K1 was designed 
20 years or so ago.


That's a pretty fanciful date to just pick out 
of thin air! :-)


There wasn't anything that was Elecraft 20 
years ago.  The K1 was shown
first at Dayton 2000, after which many of us 
ordered one.  The first
deliveries to the mass unwashed customer base 
were made in October, 2000,

after a wait of more than five months.

I got No. 175 in November, 2000.  Not 1994!

It's already been noted that the Sierra (also 
designed by Wayne/N6KR) came
out long before the K1...in fact...in 1994.  
So there's your 20 years!


Mike / KK5F


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[Elecraft] K1-4, KAT1: low output on 30, 40, no match on 40 (Part I)

2014-09-25 Thread Randy Tompson
I'm hoping someone here might have had a similar issue, and save me some
time.

 

I recently installed a KAT1 into my K1-4.  I have 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters
installed in the K1.

 

Symptoms:  low output (0.1w) on 40 meters and 30 meters.  KAT1 will not
match to 50 ohm dummy load on 40 meters.

 

I have cycled through the ATU menu, checking the SWR reading on each band,
for L0-4 and C0-5.I'll post the results in a separate email.   The
relays are clicking on each band change, and for each L and C change.  The
pattern wasn't clear to me;  does this point me to C5?

 

The unit was working properly after KAT1 installation.  I.e., the problem is
new.

 

I've reheated the KAT1 toroid leads, thinking I might have a cold joint.  no
joy.

 

Does this ring any bells for anyone?  

 

Many thanks, and 72.

 

Randy NC4RT

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4, KAT1: low output on 30, 40, no match on 40 (Part I)

2014-09-25 Thread Don Wilhelm

Randy,

Did the KAT1 wattmeter balance (null) and power and SWR calibrations 
proceed without incident?
The voltage obtained during the nulling procedure should have been in 
the low millivolt range.  If it was not, the problem may be in the 
wattmeter portion of the KAT1.  Check T1 very closely.  It must be wound 
in the direction indicated in the manual diagram, and the leads must be 
well stripped and tinned.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/25/2014 8:23 PM, Randy Tompson wrote:

I'm hoping someone here might have had a similar issue, and save me some
time.

  


I recently installed a KAT1 into my K1-4.  I have 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters
installed in the K1.

  


Symptoms:  low output (0.1w) on 40 meters and 30 meters.  KAT1 will not
match to 50 ohm dummy load on 40 meters.

  


I have cycled through the ATU menu, checking the SWR reading on each band,
for L0-4 and C0-5.I'll post the results in a separate email.   The
relays are clicking on each band change, and for each L and C change.  The
pattern wasn't clear to me;  does this point me to C5?

  


The unit was working properly after KAT1 installation.  I.e., the problem is
new.

  


I've reheated the KAT1 toroid leads, thinking I might have a cold joint.  no
joy.

  





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Re: [Elecraft] K1 with a strange XFIL problem...

2014-09-23 Thread ae6rq
Success! 

Thanks to Bruce N1RX for his knowledge and prior troubleshooting to resolve
this issue.  

http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n7593336/sn2404fp_problem.jpg 


What he described and photographed (above) are exactly the cause of this
problem. The RIT switch leg was making contact with pin 5 of J1. 


72/73
Dave




For further details, please see Bruce's reply to me below:  


Yes I had this exact problem on one I repaired in July of 2012. It was
traced to a short between the RIT/XIT switch to a trace on the board, where
the switch lead had been bent over by the original builder before soldering.

I corresponded with Don Wilhelm about this. Though he didn't provide the
solution, our conversation led me to the tests that found it. Copied below
is  a repost of my last message to Don, after I resolved it. I don't recall
if I posted this to the reflector or not. In any event, It may help someone
in the future. I have a photo of the offending switch pin connection, if
anyone wants it.
Bruce Beford, N1RX

Hi, Don.
You may recall that I posted recently to the list about a strange problem
with a K1.  I resolved it today, and wanted to share the results with you.
Here's a copy of my original post:

OK, folks.
Time to put on your thinking caps...
I just purchased a used K1. Has NB, ATU and 4 band board, set for
7/10.1/14/21 MHz. All appears to be operating normally, except...
When cycling through the crystal filter bandwidths from FL1-FL3, once FL3 is
reached, all buttons become unresponsive. The VFO readout still works, but
the MCU will not respond to any key presses. The filter does actually switch
to the narrowest setting, based on the audio response. Cycling the power
returns the rig to normal operation (on FL1), and all works fine again until
trying to use FL3.

About the only other anomaly I notice is what seems to be a louder pop in
the speaker when switching in RIT or XIT than I remember from my last K1. I
have not yet begun any troubleshooting (except for a full reset). Just
thought I would poll the collective wisdom here before digging in. Actually,
I'll be getting ready for Lobstercon over the next couple of days, so I
don't know how much time I'll be able to commit until after the weekend.



You and I both suspected a problem with the MCU, as there should no other
circuitry involved, except the DAC and EEPROM. You also suggested perhaps
replacing those ICs while in there.

Fortunately, I have a friend who allowed me to borrow his working K1.
Swapped the entire Front Panel board, mine works fine with his board. I then
took his MCU chip and put it in my board, still have the problem. So, the
problem was on my FP board, but not the MCU. 

One thing I did notice was a ticking noise in the audio with no antenna
connected, almost like ignition noise in a vehicle, when using my board FP
board but not when using my friend's. The ticking would disappear when I
went to FL2. Ahh, another clue...

I then decided to remove the DAC from my board and see what happens. Lo, The
unit would now switch properly, FL3,FL2,FL1 and back to FL3 OK. Of course,
it was not actually switching the filter bandwidth with the DAC out. I now
had a pretty load, almost moterboating noise in the audio. 

I decided to ground what was the XFIL/TONE output pin of the DAC (pin 1) to
see if it would quiet the audio. It did, BUT- it activated the RIT! Wait a
minute- there should be no connection between the two but, there was.
Upon extra careful inspection, I found that one lead on the RIT/XIT switch
was not inserted through the board by the original builder. It was bent
over, and was contacting pin 5 on J1 (the XFIL/TONE signal). The
moaterboating I heard was actually the MCU driving the LCD pin and polling
the input for the switch. This was not noticeable when the DAC was holding
this line at a steady DC voltage.

So, what was happening was when the DAC output it's lowest voltage for FL1
(about 1.6 volts), it would tickle the input pin on the MCU for the
WPM+/FILTER switch. I believe the MCU would think the switch was being held
in, therefore no other switches would work, until the unit was powered off.
An original symptom (which I didn't recognize at the time) was when I noted
that the RIT/XIT button seemed to generate an audio pop when used. That's
because it was grounding the XFIL/TONE signal line.

I reworked the switch connection, and all is fine now. I have attached a
photo of the offending pin (not  a good shot, but shows the connection in
question). I thought you might like to hear about this one.

Thanks for being a sounding board, Don. I appreciate it.
73,
Bruce, N1RX





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[Elecraft] K1 K1-4/2 with options for sale

2014-09-23 Thread Luis V. Romero

Thank you all:

The K1 is sold pending funds.

73

Lu - W4LT

On Sep 22, 2014 5:16 PM, Lu Romero lrom...@ij.net wrote:

 K1 #2539 for sale

 I would like to sell my K1-4/2 for personal reasons.  The
 rig comes with the following options:
 -   Finger Dimple
 -   LCD Backlight kit
 -   KFL1-4 Four band module with
 o 40 meters
 o 30 meters
 o 20 meters
 o 17 meters
 -   KFL1-2 Two band module (not installed) with
 o 80 meters
 o 15 meters
 -   KAT1 Internal Antenna Tuner
 -   KNB1 Noise Blanker

 Also included are a 12v 4amp power cube type power supply
 with integral barrel plug and IEC Cable, a spare power cable
 with molded power barrel plug and tinned ends, Original
 factory printed assembly manual annotated with build notes
 plus latest downloaded factory manual with all errata fixed,
 all the separate manuals for the options, additional 15
 meter crystal plus parts to remove 17 meters and add 15
 meters to the 4 band module and all leftover assembly parts,
 factory tools and jigs in original factory bag.

 Rig is 9.5 on a scale of 10 cosmetically (small scuff on one
 side panel) and 10 of 10 operationally. Has been with me
 literally around the world in my backpack but sadly, I
 don't travel much anymore, my life has gotten complicated
 and it sees little use.  A great rig like this should be
 used!

 Will be professionally packed and delivered via UPS ground
 to the lower 48 states.  I really don't need anything to
 trade for, or else I would keep it.

 Over $600 new in 2009, offering this very nice and well
 optioned K1 for $475, which includes shipping as described
 above. Terms are Cashier's Check or Postal Money order.

 A scan of the funds transfer document emailed to me holds it
 in your name until I receive the actual document, then I
 will ship.  I will not cash the document until I receive
 confirmation that you received the radio from UPS.  Please,
 no funny business!

 Email direct (please, not here on the list!) for additional
 information and photographs.  I'm good in QRZ.

 73 - Lu Romero - W4LT Tampa, Fl.


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 with a strange XFIL problem...

2014-09-22 Thread ae6rq
Hi all - 

I wonder if this problem has ever been resolved?  I have had the same issue
for several years with mine (serial number 278, previously owned by K8RA who
reported the same problem.)  

http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/On-a-K1-how-do-I-get-back-from-FL3-to-FL1-or-FL2-Menu-freezes-td7570579.html

http://marc.info/?l=elecraftm=105624414018316w=2

and the thread to which I reply now: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K1-with-a-strange-XFIL-problem-tp7558513p7558526.html
  

72/73
Dave 



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[Elecraft] K1 - For Sale: K1-4/2 with options

2014-09-22 Thread Lu Romero
K1 #2539 for sale

I would like to sell my K1-4/2 for personal reasons.  The
rig comes with the following options:
-   Finger Dimple
-   LCD Backlight kit
-   KFL1-4 Four band module with
o 40 meters
o 30 meters
o 20 meters
o 17 meters
-   KFL1-2 Two band module (not installed) with
o 80 meters
o 15 meters
-   KAT1 Internal Antenna Tuner
-   KNB1 Noise Blanker

Also included are a 12v 4amp power cube type power supply
with integral barrel plug and IEC Cable, a spare power cable
with molded power barrel plug and tinned ends, Original
factory printed assembly manual annotated with build notes
plus latest downloaded factory manual with all errata fixed,
all the separate manuals for the options, additional 15
meter crystal plus parts to remove 17 meters and add 15
meters to the 4 band module and all leftover assembly parts,
factory tools and jigs in original factory bag.  

Rig is 9.5 on a scale of 10 cosmetically (small scuff on one
side panel) and 10 of 10 operationally. Has been with me
literally around the world in my backpack but sadly, I
don’t travel much anymore, my life has gotten complicated
and it sees little use.  A great rig like this should be
used!   

Will be professionally packed and delivered via UPS ground
to the lower 48 states.  I really don’t need anything to
trade for, or else I would keep it.  

Over $600 new in 2009, offering this very nice and well
optioned K1 for $475, which includes shipping as described
above. Terms are Cashier’s Check or Postal Money order.  

A scan of the funds transfer document emailed to me holds it
in your name until I receive the actual document, then I
will ship.  I will not cash the document until I receive
confirmation that you received the radio from UPS.  Please,
no funny business!

Email direct (please, not here on the list!) for additional
information and photographs.  I’m good in QRZ.  

73 – Lu Romero – W4LT Tampa, Fl.


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[Elecraft] K1 For Sale

2014-08-30 Thread John Hendricks
The K1 I offered for sale has been sold.

John K7JLT
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[Elecraft] K1 For Sale

2014-08-26 Thread John Hendricks
K1 For Sale Serial Number 206
Original Non-Smoking Owner
Equipped With-
- K1-4 4 Band Module with 15, 20,30  40 Meters (Trimmer Mod Installed)
- KAT1 Antenna Tuner
- KNB1 Noise Blanker
- Back Lighted LED Modification
- Homemade Tilt Stand
- Spare 2 Band Module with 40  20 Meter (80 meter parts change kit
included)
- External 8 cell battery holder
- Tuning Range  Linearzation Modification Completed
- Original Owners Manuals, Sales Documentation,Tools  Unused parts
Recently Tested and passed RX sensitivity/TX 5 watt power output on all
bands
Asking $425 which includes priority USPS shipping to US locations
Please respond directly

John K7JLT
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[Elecraft] K1 Issue. Lost reception when transmitter stage completed.

2014-08-22 Thread Les Garwood
Dear Fellows,

I just finished construction of my K1.  The receiver stage worked perfectly
until I finished the transmitter stage.  I still get audio hiss and volume
but no signal on any band, AGC on or off, attenuator on or off.
All the voltages and resistances check out except the anode of D9,
according to the manual, is supposed to be  100k.  I'm sure this is an
error, however,  since the DC path to ground from that point goes through
three resistors and a choke totalling only about a couple K,  which is what
I measure.
I still get rf out of the VFO, and can trace it through the filter board,
J6, at pins 1,2 and 6, with my scope.  However,  there is no trace of
signal rf from the antenna on pins 1 or 8 of J7.

I have no rf at the attenuator relay either, at pin 3, or any other.

I can't quite figure out yet how the TR switch circuit works (or doesn't
perhaps) so it's hard to troubleshoot if it is the problem or not.

Needing the filter board in place makes trouble shooting all the harder
too.  I wish I had a layout view showing the bottom of the rf board to help.

As always, any comments welcome and appreciated.

73

Les
KE7SLX
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Issue. Lost reception when transmitter stage completed.

2014-08-22 Thread Don Wilhelm

Les,

You did not mention your test gear nor any information about your setup, 
so I have to make some guesses and ask some groundwork questions.


Are you injecting RF from a signal generator to the BNC jack?  If so, is 
that signal large enough to register on what you are using to determine 
signal or no signal ('scope with 10X probe or RF Probe)?

Do you have the jumper installed in J2 of the band board?

Turn the signal generator off, then on while observing the level at band 
board J8 pin 8 - you should see a rise in the RF being measured.  If 
not, the signal level is too low to register on your measurement device.


The Signal Tracing section starting on page 5 of the K1 manual appendix 
gives you an orderly sequence for troubleshooting.  Where does the 
signal level drop below the expected level?  That point is just past the 
point of failure.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/22/2014 1:03 PM, Les Garwood wrote:

Dear Fellows,

I just finished construction of my K1.  The receiver stage worked perfectly
until I finished the transmitter stage.  I still get audio hiss and volume
but no signal on any band, AGC on or off, attenuator on or off.
All the voltages and resistances check out except the anode of D9,
according to the manual, is supposed to be  100k.  I'm sure this is an
error, however,  since the DC path to ground from that point goes through
three resistors and a choke totalling only about a couple K,  which is what
I measure.
I still get rf out of the VFO, and can trace it through the filter board,
J6, at pins 1,2 and 6, with my scope.  However,  there is no trace of
signal rf from the antenna on pins 1 or 8 of J7.

I have no rf at the attenuator relay either, at pin 3, or any other.

I can't quite figure out yet how the TR switch circuit works (or doesn't
perhaps) so it's hard to troubleshoot if it is the problem or not.

Needing the filter board in place makes trouble shooting all the harder
too.  I wish I had a layout view showing the bottom of the rf board to help.

As always, any comments welcome and appreciated.




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Issue. Lost reception when transmitter stage completed.

2014-08-22 Thread Mike Morrow
Les wrote:

All the voltages and resistances check out except the anode of D9,
according to the manual, is supposed to be  100k.  I'm sure this is an
error, however, since the DC path to ground from that point goes through
three resistors and a choke totalling only about a couple K,  which is what
I measure.

The manual calls for this to be greater than *100* ohms, not *100,000* ohms.
A kit sold for 14 years is unlikely to have incorrect test point standards. :-)

I wish I had a layout view showing the bottom of the rf board to help.

I have wished (for 14 years) for such PCB trace layouts.  They are very
appropriate for *ALL* kits.  For some reason that has never been coherently
explained, Elecraft has never supplied them.  Tom/N0SS (SK) published photos
of the PCB for the K1 years ago, but I do not think those are available any
more, even at the remnant of his web site that is preserved by his ham club.

Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Issue. Lost reception when transmitter stage completed.

2014-08-22 Thread Les Garwood
Thanks again,  Don.
I've been using Elecraft's signal injector;  you may know it puts out 50
micro volts on the high setting.
I'll try your suggestions but I think I did part of them already.
BTW, I'm using my Android phone so it's tough to write a lot of detail.

Les
On Aug 22, 2014 11:05 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Les,

 You did not mention your test gear nor any information about your setup,
 so I have to make some guesses and ask some groundwork questions.

 Are you injecting RF from a signal generator to the BNC jack?  If so, is
 that signal large enough to register on what you are using to determine
 signal or no signal ('scope with 10X probe or RF Probe)?
 Do you have the jumper installed in J2 of the band board?

 Turn the signal generator off, then on while observing the level at band
 board J8 pin 8 - you should see a rise in the RF being measured.  If not,
 the signal level is too low to register on your measurement device.

 The Signal Tracing section starting on page 5 of the K1 manual appendix
 gives you an orderly sequence for troubleshooting.  Where does the signal
 level drop below the expected level?  That point is just past the point of
 failure.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 8/22/2014 1:03 PM, Les Garwood wrote:

 Dear Fellows,

 I just finished construction of my K1.  The receiver stage worked
 perfectly
 until I finished the transmitter stage.  I still get audio hiss and volume
 but no signal on any band, AGC on or off, attenuator on or off.
 All the voltages and resistances check out except the anode of D9,
 according to the manual, is supposed to be  100k.  I'm sure this is an
 error, however,  since the DC path to ground from that point goes through
 three resistors and a choke totalling only about a couple K,  which is
 what
 I measure.
 I still get rf out of the VFO, and can trace it through the filter board,
 J6, at pins 1,2 and 6, with my scope.  However,  there is no trace of
 signal rf from the antenna on pins 1 or 8 of J7.

 I have no rf at the attenuator relay either, at pin 3, or any other.

 I can't quite figure out yet how the TR switch circuit works (or doesn't
 perhaps) so it's hard to troubleshoot if it is the problem or not.

 Needing the filter board in place makes trouble shooting all the harder
 too.  I wish I had a layout view showing the bottom of the rf board to
 help.

 As always, any comments welcome and appreciated.




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Issue. Lost reception when transmitter stage completed.

2014-08-22 Thread Don Wilhelm

Hi,

Yes, Tom had scans of all the legacy gear boards, both top and bottom.
They were on the preserved website at http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/, 
but right now, it looks like the link refers back to the master page.  I 
will try to contact their webmaster to see if that can be fixed.


In the meantime, I do have copies of those board images, and will email 
them one at a time to anyone who requests them.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/22/2014 2:18 PM, Mike Morrow wrote:

I wish I had a layout view showing the bottom of the rf board to help.

I have wished (for 14 years) for such PCB trace layouts.  They are very
appropriate for *ALL* kits.  For some reason that has never been coherently
explained, Elecraft has never supplied them.  Tom/N0SS (SK) published photos
of the PCB for the K1 years ago, but I do not think those are available any
more, even at the remnant of his web site that is preserved by his ham club.




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Issue. Lost reception when transmitter stage completed.

2014-08-22 Thread Don Wilhelm

Les,

50 uV is not a large enough signal to see on a 'scope or RF probe. You 
really need 1.4 volts (or whatever is specified in the procedure) of RF 
input.


I suggest you build the simple oscillator shown in the Signal Tracing 
appendix of the manual.  It has good output for that purpose.  The 
crystal should be at a frequency within your tuning range.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/22/2014 3:07 PM, Les Garwood wrote:

Thanks again,  Don.
I've been using Elecraft's signal injector;  you may know it puts out 50
micro volts on the high setting.
I'll try your suggestions but I think I did part of them already.
BTW, I'm using my Android phone so it's tough to write a lot of detail.

Les
On Aug 22, 2014 11:05 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:


Les,

You did not mention your test gear nor any information about your setup,
so I have to make some guesses and ask some groundwork questions.

Are you injecting RF from a signal generator to the BNC jack?  If so, is
that signal large enough to register on what you are using to determine
signal or no signal ('scope with 10X probe or RF Probe)?
Do you have the jumper installed in J2 of the band board?

Turn the signal generator off, then on while observing the level at band
board J8 pin 8 - you should see a rise in the RF being measured.  If not,
the signal level is too low to register on your measurement device.

The Signal Tracing section starting on page 5 of the K1 manual appendix
gives you an orderly sequence for troubleshooting.  Where does the signal
level drop below the expected level?  That point is just past the point of
failure.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/22/2014 1:03 PM, Les Garwood wrote:


Dear Fellows,

I just finished construction of my K1.  The receiver stage worked
perfectly
until I finished the transmitter stage.  I still get audio hiss and volume
but no signal on any band, AGC on or off, attenuator on or off.
All the voltages and resistances check out except the anode of D9,
according to the manual, is supposed to be  100k.  I'm sure this is an
error, however,  since the DC path to ground from that point goes through
three resistors and a choke totalling only about a couple K,  which is
what
I measure.
I still get rf out of the VFO, and can trace it through the filter board,
J6, at pins 1,2 and 6, with my scope.  However,  there is no trace of
signal rf from the antenna on pins 1 or 8 of J7.

I have no rf at the attenuator relay either, at pin 3, or any other.

I can't quite figure out yet how the TR switch circuit works (or doesn't
perhaps) so it's hard to troubleshoot if it is the problem or not.

Needing the filter board in place makes trouble shooting all the harder
too.  I wish I had a layout view showing the bottom of the rf board to
help.

As always, any comments welcome and appreciated.




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Issue. Lost reception when transmitter stage completed.

2014-08-22 Thread Les Garwood
Helpful once again.  I also use a Heatkit signal gen., I didn't mention.
It punches up well on my scope.  I'll try it again.
The scans are what's already on the board, however.  These have been useful
but limited.  Maybe there is something out on the Net that identifies the
solder points/pads too.

Les
On Aug 22, 2014 12:23 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Les,

 50 uV is not a large enough signal to see on a 'scope or RF probe. You
 really need 1.4 volts (or whatever is specified in the procedure) of RF
 input.

 I suggest you build the simple oscillator shown in the Signal Tracing
 appendix of the manual.  It has good output for that purpose.  The crystal
 should be at a frequency within your tuning range.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 8/22/2014 3:07 PM, Les Garwood wrote:

 Thanks again,  Don.
 I've been using Elecraft's signal injector;  you may know it puts out 50
 micro volts on the high setting.
 I'll try your suggestions but I think I did part of them already.
 BTW, I'm using my Android phone so it's tough to write a lot of detail.

 Les
 On Aug 22, 2014 11:05 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

  Les,

 You did not mention your test gear nor any information about your setup,
 so I have to make some guesses and ask some groundwork questions.

 Are you injecting RF from a signal generator to the BNC jack?  If so, is
 that signal large enough to register on what you are using to determine
 signal or no signal ('scope with 10X probe or RF Probe)?
 Do you have the jumper installed in J2 of the band board?

 Turn the signal generator off, then on while observing the level at band
 board J8 pin 8 - you should see a rise in the RF being measured.  If not,
 the signal level is too low to register on your measurement device.

 The Signal Tracing section starting on page 5 of the K1 manual appendix
 gives you an orderly sequence for troubleshooting.  Where does the signal
 level drop below the expected level?  That point is just past the point
 of
 failure.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 8/22/2014 1:03 PM, Les Garwood wrote:

  Dear Fellows,

 I just finished construction of my K1.  The receiver stage worked
 perfectly
 until I finished the transmitter stage.  I still get audio hiss and
 volume
 but no signal on any band, AGC on or off, attenuator on or off.
 All the voltages and resistances check out except the anode of D9,
 according to the manual, is supposed to be  100k.  I'm sure this is an
 error, however,  since the DC path to ground from that point goes
 through
 three resistors and a choke totalling only about a couple K,  which is
 what
 I measure.
 I still get rf out of the VFO, and can trace it through the filter
 board,
 J6, at pins 1,2 and 6, with my scope.  However,  there is no trace of
 signal rf from the antenna on pins 1 or 8 of J7.

 I have no rf at the attenuator relay either, at pin 3, or any other.

 I can't quite figure out yet how the TR switch circuit works (or doesn't
 perhaps) so it's hard to troubleshoot if it is the problem or not.

 Needing the filter board in place makes trouble shooting all the harder
 too.  I wish I had a layout view showing the bottom of the rf board to
 help.

 As always, any comments welcome and appreciated.



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Issue. Lost reception when transmitter stage completed.

2014-08-22 Thread Eugene Worth
You mean this link for N0SS signal tracing on the K1?

http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/k1_signal_tracing.pdf

Mid-Missouri radio club continues to maintain most of Tom’s papers.

72,

gene
WG7GW
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[Elecraft] K1 Receiver Sensitivity Issue.

2014-08-18 Thread Les Garwood
Dear Fellows,

I Bought a K1 kit at a ham fest several years ago  (SN 02197) and recently
finished the receiver section.  Although audio is strong, as evidenced by
the hiss, I have nearly no signal on all 4 bands.
I can pump strong rf into it and hear a good side tone/bfo but not
strongly. Once, I heard a very faint CW station that was loud on my big
rig. But no others.
From the best of my repeated testings, all voltages and resistances
provided in the manual match.  I have not built an rf probe for my DMM yet
but will.  However, I also used the signal generator kit from Elecraft
(the KXGI?).  It is only weakly audible too, and only on the 50 microvolt
setting.  The AGC setting has no effect.  The attenuator kills the weak
probe signal when on.
One post I found after scouring the  Net spoke of a very similar problem
that turned out to be a bad 2N7000, in the A Preamp stage,  but I can't see
how that would affect signal sensitivity, only audio gain.
I also put a scope on pin one and pin 4 of U1, the Receiver Mixer.  The
relative voltage was 3x higher on pin 1 than on pin 4.  I would at least
have expected gain instead.

Any comments appreciated.

73
Les
KE7SLX
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Receiver Sensitivity Issue.

2014-08-18 Thread Don Wilhelm

Les,

Yes, the NE612 should show plenty of gain.  When it does not, the usual 
reason is little or no oscillator signal to pin 6.


The Pre-mixer Bandpass filter must be aligned before you will get much 
of a signal at U1 pin 6.


Since you have a 'scope (hopefully with a 10X probe), I will give you an 
alternate method of tuning the Pre-Mixer Bandpass filter.


Since you have the 4 band board, you must follow the proper band order - 
adjust 15 (or 17) meters before adjusting 20 meters, and likewise adjust 
30 meters before 40 meters.
Make a check before starting - align all the slots in the trimmer 
capacitors parallel with the long edge of the band board.  Then check 
the activity of the crystal for each band - put your probe on band board 
P1 pin 4 and not the amplitude of the signal as you switch through the 
bands - you should have greater than 200 mV peak to peak.  The position 
of the trimmer slots when tuned should be no more than 30 degrees from 
the center position if your toroids are correct.


Then switch to 15 (or 17) meters, and with your probe on P1 pin 6, 
adjust the Pre-Mixer trimmer caps for 15 meters for the maximum 
amplitude.  Switch to 30 meters and do the same for that bands 
trimmers.  Do the same for 20 meters and 40 meters.  You should be able 
to get 200 mV peak to peak there on all bands.
Remember that your 'scope probe will load the Pre-Mix filter a bit, so 
the trimmers to the right of the filter will not be at their optimum 
setting, but it will be enough for receive - you will set the optimum 
position when you adjust for transmit.


You should check to see that the Pre-Mix signal is getting to U1 pin 6 - 
if it is not, suspect the coax link on the bottom of the board between 
J9 and J10.


Once you have a good signal at U1 pin 6, you should see that the output 
at pin 4 is much greater than the input at pin 1.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/18/2014 5:20 PM, Les Garwood wrote:

Dear Fellows,

I Bought a K1 kit at a ham fest several years ago  (SN 02197) and recently
finished the receiver section.  Although audio is strong, as evidenced by
the hiss, I have nearly no signal on all 4 bands.
I can pump strong rf into it and hear a good side tone/bfo but not
strongly. Once, I heard a very faint CW station that was loud on my big
rig. But no others.
From the best of my repeated testings, all voltages and resistances
provided in the manual match.  I have not built an rf probe for my DMM yet
but will.  However, I also used the signal generator kit from Elecraft
(the KXGI?).  It is only weakly audible too, and only on the 50 microvolt
setting.  The AGC setting has no effect.  The attenuator kills the weak
probe signal when on.
One post I found after scouring the  Net spoke of a very similar problem
that turned out to be a bad 2N7000, in the A Preamp stage,  but I can't see
how that would affect signal sensitivity, only audio gain.
I also put a scope on pin one and pin 4 of U1, the Receiver Mixer.  The
relative voltage was 3x higher on pin 1 than on pin 4.  I would at least
have expected gain instead.




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Receiver Sensitivity Issue.

2014-08-18 Thread Les Garwood
Hi Don,

Extremely helpful and encouraging; thanks.  Actually,  I was able to get
the trimmers set pretty well, i think, using a strong signal source.  But I
will make the measurements you recommended.
Right now, I suspect either low VFO output or something is pulling down the
gain of U1.

Les
On Aug 18, 2014 3:00 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Les,

 Yes, the NE612 should show plenty of gain.  When it does not, the usual
 reason is little or no oscillator signal to pin 6.

 The Pre-mixer Bandpass filter must be aligned before you will get much of
 a signal at U1 pin 6.

 Since you have a 'scope (hopefully with a 10X probe), I will give you an
 alternate method of tuning the Pre-Mixer Bandpass filter.

 Since you have the 4 band board, you must follow the proper band order -
 adjust 15 (or 17) meters before adjusting 20 meters, and likewise adjust 30
 meters before 40 meters.
 Make a check before starting - align all the slots in the trimmer
 capacitors parallel with the long edge of the band board.  Then check the
 activity of the crystal for each band - put your probe on band board P1 pin
 4 and not the amplitude of the signal as you switch through the bands - you
 should have greater than 200 mV peak to peak.  The position of the trimmer
 slots when tuned should be no more than 30 degrees from the center position
 if your toroids are correct.

 Then switch to 15 (or 17) meters, and with your probe on P1 pin 6, adjust
 the Pre-Mixer trimmer caps for 15 meters for the maximum amplitude.  Switch
 to 30 meters and do the same for that bands trimmers.  Do the same for 20
 meters and 40 meters.  You should be able to get 200 mV peak to peak there
 on all bands.
 Remember that your 'scope probe will load the Pre-Mix filter a bit, so the
 trimmers to the right of the filter will not be at their optimum setting,
 but it will be enough for receive - you will set the optimum position when
 you adjust for transmit.

 You should check to see that the Pre-Mix signal is getting to U1 pin 6 -
 if it is not, suspect the coax link on the bottom of the board between J9
 and J10.

 Once you have a good signal at U1 pin 6, you should see that the output at
 pin 4 is much greater than the input at pin 1.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 8/18/2014 5:20 PM, Les Garwood wrote:

 Dear Fellows,

 I Bought a K1 kit at a ham fest several years ago  (SN 02197) and recently
 finished the receiver section.  Although audio is strong, as evidenced by
 the hiss, I have nearly no signal on all 4 bands.
 I can pump strong rf into it and hear a good side tone/bfo but not
 strongly. Once, I heard a very faint CW station that was loud on my big
 rig. But no others.
 From the best of my repeated testings, all voltages and resistances
 provided in the manual match.  I have not built an rf probe for my DMM yet
 but will.  However, I also used the signal generator kit from Elecraft
 (the KXGI?).  It is only weakly audible too, and only on the 50 microvolt
 setting.  The AGC setting has no effect.  The attenuator kills the weak
 probe signal when on.
 One post I found after scouring the  Net spoke of a very similar problem
 that turned out to be a bad 2N7000, in the A Preamp stage,  but I can't
 see
 how that would affect signal sensitivity, only audio gain.
 I also put a scope on pin one and pin 4 of U1, the Receiver Mixer.  The
 relative voltage was 3x higher on pin 1 than on pin 4.  I would at least
 have expected gain instead.




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Receiver Sensitivity Issue.

2014-08-18 Thread Don Wilhelm

Les,

If you can get at least 200 mV peak to peak out of the Pre-Mixer 
bandpass, the VFO level is OK.
The VFO and band module xtal oscillator are mixed in U7 and the output 
of that mixer (after the bandpass filter) is applied to U1 pin 6.


If you find you need to check for loading of the U1 output, lift one 
lead of C22 to isolate it.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/18/2014 6:08 PM, Les Garwood wrote:

Hi Don,

Extremely helpful and encouraging; thanks.  Actually,  I was able to get
the trimmers set pretty well, i think, using a strong signal source.  But I
will make the measurements you recommended.
Right now, I suspect either low VFO output or something is pulling down the
gain of U1.

Les
On Aug 18, 2014 3:00 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:


Les,

Yes, the NE612 should show plenty of gain.  When it does not, the usual
reason is little or no oscillator signal to pin 6.

The Pre-mixer Bandpass filter must be aligned before you will get much of
a signal at U1 pin 6.

Since you have a 'scope (hopefully with a 10X probe), I will give you an
alternate method of tuning the Pre-Mixer Bandpass filter.

Since you have the 4 band board, you must follow the proper band order -
adjust 15 (or 17) meters before adjusting 20 meters, and likewise adjust 30
meters before 40 meters.
Make a check before starting - align all the slots in the trimmer
capacitors parallel with the long edge of the band board.  Then check the
activity of the crystal for each band - put your probe on band board P1 pin
4 and not the amplitude of the signal as you switch through the bands - you
should have greater than 200 mV peak to peak.  The position of the trimmer
slots when tuned should be no more than 30 degrees from the center position
if your toroids are correct.

Then switch to 15 (or 17) meters, and with your probe on P1 pin 6, adjust
the Pre-Mixer trimmer caps for 15 meters for the maximum amplitude.  Switch
to 30 meters and do the same for that bands trimmers.  Do the same for 20
meters and 40 meters.  You should be able to get 200 mV peak to peak there
on all bands.
Remember that your 'scope probe will load the Pre-Mix filter a bit, so the
trimmers to the right of the filter will not be at their optimum setting,
but it will be enough for receive - you will set the optimum position when
you adjust for transmit.

You should check to see that the Pre-Mix signal is getting to U1 pin 6 -
if it is not, suspect the coax link on the bottom of the board between J9
and J10.

Once you have a good signal at U1 pin 6, you should see that the output at
pin 4 is much greater than the input at pin 1.

73,
Don W3FPR




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Receiver Sensitivity Issue.

2014-08-18 Thread Les Garwood
Hi Don,

Success!!!
I mostly followed your advice--I say mostly because I got diverted when I
found a clue.  I would still be searching without your insights and
expertise, however.

I was getting about 150 mv out of pin 4 of u7.  I traced it to pins 1and 2
of J6, which was still hot on the scope through the secondary winding of T1
ON THE FILTER BOARD but was dead upon arrival at pin 6 on the return leg.
This sent me on a merry chase of testing all the relay solenoids for
continuity, and their contact leads.  They all checked good so then I leapt
at the conclusion that the controller IC was at fault.  I tried resetting
it to factory default but no apparent change resulted.
So, I went back to the scope and finally found the exact dead end: C15 was
wrongly mounted.  Somehow, I misread the silkscreen hole indicator, I'm
embarrassed to say.  Anyway, I resoldered it in the right holes
and, instantly, robust CW screamed at me.  I'm thrilled and humbled.

Thanks again, Don

73

Les
KE7SLX

On Monday, August 18, 2014, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Les,

 If you can get at least 200 mV peak to peak out of the Pre-Mixer bandpass,
 the VFO level is OK.
 The VFO and band module xtal oscillator are mixed in U7 and the output of
 that mixer (after the bandpass filter) is applied to U1 pin 6.

 If you find you need to check for loading of the U1 output, lift one lead
 of C22 to isolate it.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 On 8/18/2014 6:08 PM, Les Garwood wrote:

 Hi Don,

 Extremely helpful and encouraging; thanks.  Actually,  I was able to get
 the trimmers set pretty well, i think, using a strong signal source.  But
 I
 will make the measurements you recommended.
 Right now, I suspect either low VFO output or something is pulling down
 the
 gain of U1.

 Les
 On Aug 18, 2014 3:00 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

  Les,

 Yes, the NE612 should show plenty of gain.  When it does not, the usual
 reason is little or no oscillator signal to pin 6.

 The Pre-mixer Bandpass filter must be aligned before you will get much of
 a signal at U1 pin 6.

 Since you have a 'scope (hopefully with a 10X probe), I will give you an
 alternate method of tuning the Pre-Mixer Bandpass filter.

 Since you have the 4 band board, you must follow the proper band order -
 adjust 15 (or 17) meters before adjusting 20 meters, and likewise adjust
 30
 meters before 40 meters.
 Make a check before starting - align all the slots in the trimmer
 capacitors parallel with the long edge of the band board.  Then check the
 activity of the crystal for each band - put your probe on band board P1
 pin
 4 and not the amplitude of the signal as you switch through the bands -
 you
 should have greater than 200 mV peak to peak.  The position of the
 trimmer
 slots when tuned should be no more than 30 degrees from the center
 position
 if your toroids are correct.

 Then switch to 15 (or 17) meters, and with your probe on P1 pin 6, adjust
 the Pre-Mixer trimmer caps for 15 meters for the maximum amplitude.
 Switch
 to 30 meters and do the same for that bands trimmers.  Do the same for 20
 meters and 40 meters.  You should be able to get 200 mV peak to peak
 there
 on all bands.
 Remember that your 'scope probe will load the Pre-Mix filter a bit, so
 the
 trimmers to the right of the filter will not be at their optimum setting,
 but it will be enough for receive - you will set the optimum position
 when
 you adjust for transmit.

 You should check to see that the Pre-Mix signal is getting to U1 pin 6 -
 if it is not, suspect the coax link on the bottom of the board between J9
 and J10.

 Once you have a good signal at U1 pin 6, you should see that the output
 at
 pin 4 is much greater than the input at pin 1.

 73,
 Don W3FPR




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[Elecraft] K1 stand....WTB

2014-08-15 Thread Edward Kacura via Elecraft

Still looking for the stand Elecraft discontinued for the K1.
If you have one you don't want or use, let me know.
Contact me off line @ ekac...@yahoo.com
ThanksEd  n7edk
Sent from my iPhone
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[Elecraft] K1 Stand

2014-08-06 Thread edward kacura via Elecraft
Good Morning, 

Looking for the stand that Elecraft use to sell for the K1.
If any of you folks have one you don't use/don't want anymore, I'd like to buy 
it from you !
Thanks, contact me off-line at ekac...@yahoo.com.

72/73 de Ed
N7EDK
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-26 Thread Humberto
Hi,

what would you think of a six-band module ?
Would it be interresting for the elecraft K1 users ?

I am think about build one. With afined design which 
is easier to align with different trim capacitors !

Your opinion ???

73

Herbert



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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-26 Thread Phil Wheeler
I'm happy with my 4-band module. Works great. And 
added backlight yesterday: A very nice rig.


A six-band module would be good if you wanted 
80-40-30-20-15 and one other band. I've never 
operated QRP on 80, except PSK31 with the PSK-80. 
Usually too antenna challenged when portable for 
QRP on 80, and at home QRN is bad a good part of 
the time.


Before doing a six-band module, make sure the MCU 
will support six *simultaneous* bands in the K1. 
Seems like new territory, so Wayne would have to 
weigh in.


Phil W7OX

On 7/26/14, 9:34 AM, Humberto wrote:

Hi,

what would you think of a six-band module ?
Would it be interresting for the elecraft K1 users ?

I am think about build one. With afined design which
is easier to align with different trim capacitors !

Your opinion ???

73

Herbert


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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-23 Thread Curt
Oh well, all good things eventually end.  Kit building in the conventional 
sense is probably a declining interest anyway. Having built both thru-hole 
and SMT radios (ATS-3B), probably enjoy building about as much as operating.


Am thankful to have built a K1-4 (40/30/20/15) several years ago, also 
two-band boards for 80/17 and 12/10.
People who like to build ought to get a K1-2, K2, or KX1 before they all 
disappear due to parts availability issues.


Have never owned a KX1, but for me the K1 is pretty much the ultimate QRP 
radio.  90% of my operation is on 20M,  remainder mostly 40M, with solar 
cycle 15M has been fun too but in another two years that will be over.  30M 
has been used maybe twice.  A 2-band radio would certainly fill my needs. 
Changing band modules is a special pain for me because installed the onboard 
tuner (which is rarely used) into my K1 .  The extra boards have spent most 
of their lives in the desk drawer.


I would think a K1-2 for 40 (or 30) and 20 would still be a very good choice 
for anyone wanting a good performing full-featured QRP radio for home and/or 
portable.


Curt KB5JO 



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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-23 Thread Phil Wheeler

Curt,

All you say rings true. And this is an especially 
important point:


/Changing band modules is a special pain for me 
because installed the onboard tuner (which is 
rarely used) into my K//1/


The band module resides under the ATU board making 
such changes something not done without some 
strong motive. If I had the original two-band K1, 
vs. having the 40/30/20/15 model you have, it 
would satisfy 95% of my operating needs.


Phil W7OX

On 7/23/14, 6:09 AM, Curt wrote:
Oh well, all good things eventually end.  Kit 
building in the conventional sense is probably a 
declining interest anyway. Having built both 
thru-hole and SMT radios (ATS-3B), probably 
enjoy building about as much as operating.


Am thankful to have built a K1-4 (40/30/20/15) 
several years ago, also two-band boards for 
80/17 and 12/10.
People who like to build ought to get a K1-2, 
K2, or KX1 before they all disappear due to 
parts availability issues.


Have never owned a KX1, but for me the K1 is 
pretty much the ultimate QRP radio.  90% of my 
operation is on 20M,  remainder mostly 40M, with 
solar cycle 15M has been fun too but in another 
two years that will be over.  30M has been used 
maybe twice.  A 2-band radio would certainly 
fill my needs. Changing band modules is a 
special pain for me because installed the 
onboard tuner (which is rarely used) into my K1 
.  The extra boards have spent most of their 
lives in the desk drawer.


I would think a K1-2 for 40 (or 30) and 20 would 
still be a very good choice for anyone wanting a 
good performing full-featured QRP radio for home 
and/or portable.


Curt KB5JO


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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-23 Thread Mike Morrow
 Changing band modules is a special pain for me 
 because installed the onboard tuner (which is 
 rarely used) into my K//1/

 The band module resides under the ATU board making 
 such changes something not done without some 
 strong motive.

Tom/N0SS described 14 years ago a simple technique that
makes a filter board change when the KAT1 is installed
much easier.  He cut two segments from a thin rubber band
and placed them inside the spacers that separate the KAT1
and KFL1.  He threaded the screw coming out below the KAT1
PCB into each spacer with rubber strip in it.  That keeps
the otherwise loose spacers in place on the screw threads
as the screws are turned during KAT1 removal/replacement
for subsequent KFL1 swaps.

The K1 MCU remembers the frequency display calibration for
each band that was set by OFS, using a new KFL1 requires only
loosening the two KAT1 PCB screws, removing the KAT1 (the
KAT1-KFL1 spacers will now remain on the screw threads as the
KAT1 is pulled off), swapping the KFL1, replacing the KAT1,
installing the K1 top cover, and assigning b1 and b2 to the
new bands.

OK...so it's *still* a bit of a pain.  But not having to mess
with those two PCB spacers below the KAT1 is *major* improvement!

Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-23 Thread Don Wilhelm
I am aware of the rubber band trick, but I find no difficulty at all 
in plugging the KAT1 even with loose standoffs.

First place the standoffs so they are close to the holes in the board.
Next (and most important) put the long screws through the KAT1 board - 
hold them down with your fingers or thumbs.
Now eyeball the top of the standoffs with the end of the screws and 
insert the screws a bit into the standoffs.
Since the screws contact the standoffs before the connector pins come 
close to their mates, you can now align the connectors and push them home.
Wiggle the screws a little bit to get them to drop into the holes on the 
KFL1 board and tighten them - job done.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/23/2014 1:12 PM, Mike Morrow wrote:

Changing band modules is a special pain for me
because installed the onboard tuner (which is
rarely used) into my K//1/

The band module resides under the ATU board making
such changes something not done without some
strong motive.

Tom/N0SS described 14 years ago a simple technique that
makes a filter board change when the KAT1 is installed
much easier.  He cut two segments from a thin rubber band
and placed them inside the spacers that separate the KAT1
and KFL1.  He threaded the screw coming out below the KAT1
PCB into each spacer with rubber strip in it.  That keeps
the otherwise loose spacers in place on the screw threads
as the screws are turned during KAT1 removal/replacement
for subsequent KFL1 swaps.

The K1 MCU remembers the frequency display calibration for
each band that was set by OFS, using a new KFL1 requires only
loosening the two KAT1 PCB screws, removing the KAT1 (the
KAT1-KFL1 spacers will now remain on the screw threads as the
KAT1 is pulled off), swapping the KFL1, replacing the KAT1,
installing the K1 top cover, and assigning b1 and b2 to the
new bands.

OK...so it's *still* a bit of a pain.  But not having to mess
with those two PCB spacers below the KAT1 is *major* improvement!




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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-23 Thread Hjalmar Duklæt
I use the technique with the rubber band and change filter board in 5 minutes 
from I start to unscrew the first screw of the top cover. 
73 de Hal/la4xx
K1 2929

On 14-07-23 19:12, Mike Morrow  k...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
  Changing band modules is a special pain for me 
  because installed the onboard tuner (which is 
  rarely used) into my K//1/
 
  The band module resides under the ATU board making 
  such changes something not done without some 
  strong motive.
 
 Tom/N0SS described 14 years ago a simple technique that
 makes a filter board change when the KAT1 is installed
 much easier. He cut two segments from a thin rubber band
 and placed them inside the spacers that separate the KAT1
 and KFL1. He threaded the screw coming out below the KAT1
 PCB into each spacer with rubber strip in it. That keeps
 the otherwise loose spacers in place on the screw threads
 as the screws are turned during KAT1 removal/replacement
 for subsequent KFL1 swaps.
 
 The K1 MCU remembers the frequency display calibration for
 each band that was set by OFS, using a new KFL1 requires only
 loosening the two KAT1 PCB screws, removing the KAT1 (the
 KAT1-KFL1 spacers will now remain on the screw threads as the
 KAT1 is pulled off), swapping the KFL1, replacing the KAT1,
 installing the K1 top cover, and assigning b1 and b2 to the
 new bands.
 
 OK...so it's *still* a bit of a pain. But not having to mess
 with those two PCB spacers below the KAT1 is *major* improvement!
 
 Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone? (Hand SMT---Never)

2014-07-21 Thread N4OI - Ken
Wow -- I kind of touched a nerve with the big boy reference!  I recall this
term was used by Dave Benson in some of his SWL kit documentation.  It
merely referred the reader to a stripped-down section of the instructions if
one wanted to bypass the lengthy, step-by-step narrative...  My point is
that manufacturers, such as the premier innovator, Elecraft, should not be
constrained in their product designs by offering only through-hole or
solder-only kits. Why, even TenTec has leap-frogged the industry in this
area with their open-source, Rebel QRP platforms! 

I apologize for the poor use of words.  As a relative newcomer to ham radio,
it was not my intention to denigrate anyone on this reflector - especially
those who have vastly superior technical knowledge and capabilities.

73



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[Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone? (Hand SMT---Never

2014-07-21 Thread riese-k3djc
while this string is open 
 
I have used a small Iron and tweezers to position chip caps/resistors
tack one end and then do the other end,,, I use some liquid rosin
the multi lead devices make sure leads are centered on the board then
tack
one pin,,, solder the rest and use solder wick to clean up bridges
working under a mag light,,, than I go over it with a 10 power stereo
microscope
static strap fer sure 
 
however
 
when I built a DEM 1296 transverter board a chip cap got away from me
and couldnt find it,, when I was done I found it sticking to my thumb
nail
go figure
 
Bob K3DJC
 
On Sun, 20 Jul 2014 19:32:12 -0400 Bruce Beford
bef...@myfairpoint.net writes:
 While I understand this mindset; I for one, am grateful that there 
 are
 SMT-based kits available. I enjoy building both thru-hole and SMT 
 based
 projects. In many cases, thru hole equivalents are not available for 
 some
 components. I have built many all-SMT projects, notably those 
 offered by
 KD1JV,ad formerly NJQRP (now Midnight Design Solutions), among 
 others

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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone? (Hand SMT---Never

2014-07-21 Thread Phil Wheeler
I don't think it's a matter of technique, Bob. I 
have all the right equipment (the special 
tweezers, solder paste - in the fridge, a hot 
plate, a heat gun). And I will do small, simple 
boards -- which even a 4-band K1 would not be.


My problem is knowing that an ill timed sneeze can 
cause a serious problem - and it has. Plus as I 
age my hands get a bit shaky, another problem. So 
I avoid SMT whenever possible, to the point of 
paying someone else to do it as in a recent project.


Phil W7OX

On 7/21/14, 7:42 AM, riese-k3...@juno.com wrote:

while this string is open
  
I have used a small Iron and tweezers to position chip caps/resistors

tack one end and then do the other end,,, I use some liquid rosin
the multi lead devices make sure leads are centered on the board then
tack
one pin,,, solder the rest and use solder wick to clean up bridges
working under a mag light,,, than I go over it with a 10 power stereo
microscope
static strap fer sure
  
however
  
when I built a DEM 1296 transverter board a chip cap got away from me

and couldnt find it,, when I was done I found it sticking to my thumb
nail
go figure
  
Bob K3DJC
  
On Sun, 20 Jul 2014 19:32:12 -0400 Bruce Beford

bef...@myfairpoint.net writes:

While I understand this mindset; I for one, am grateful that there
are
SMT-based kits available. I enjoy building both thru-hole and SMT
based
projects. In many cases, thru hole equivalents are not available for
some
components. I have built many all-SMT projects, notably those
offered by
KD1JV,ad formerly NJQRP (now Midnight Design Solutions), among
others




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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone? (Hand SMT---Never)

2014-07-21 Thread hwschulte
Am 21.07.2014 14:40, schrieb N4OI - Ken:
 Wow -- I kind of touched a nerve with the big boy reference!  I recall this
 term was used by Dave Benson in some of his SWL kit documentation.  It
 merely referred the reader to a stripped-down section of the instructions if
 one wanted to bypass the lengthy, step-by-step narrative...  My point is
 that manufacturers, such as the premier innovator, Elecraft, should not be
 constrained in their product designs by offering only through-hole or
 solder-only kits. Why, even TenTec has leap-frogged the industry in this
 area with their open-source, Rebel QRP platforms! 

 I apologize for the poor use of words.  As a relative newcomer to ham radio,
 it was not my intention to denigrate anyone on this reflector - especially
 those who have vastly superior technical knowledge and capabilities.

 73



 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Re-K1-4-4-band-version-gone-Hand-SMT-Never-tp7591431p7591475.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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-- 
Cumprimentos / Freundliche Grüsse / Best regards

Herbert W. Schulte


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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone? (Hand SMT---Never)

2014-07-21 Thread Wayne Burdick
Simple SMD kits are fine because the success rate can be high and the 
investment risk on the part of both the customer and the manufacturer is low. 
We may offer such kits in the future, though we don't have any present plans 
for these.

The percentage of builders who could complete a complex SMD kit, or have the 
skill and test gear to troubleshoot them, is small. Kitting and documentation 
alone would be a huge investment for us, not to mention customer support. Many 
such kits would never be finished, or repaired, or would have mysterious 
unresolved issues. Perceived quality would suffer and frustration levels would 
go way up. 

One thing Elecraft is known for is packing a lot of functionality into a small 
space. This requires the use of very fine-pitch TQFP IC packages as well as 
0603 passives (even 0402 in a few cases). To make SMD kits viable at all we'd 
have to use much larger-pitch parts. This would force products to be larger, 
heavier, and more expensive.

Even though a small percentage of customers would be willing and able, this 
simply isn't an economically viable direction for us.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone? (Hand SMT---Never)

2014-07-21 Thread hwschulte
Hi all,

as I started that idea with the SMT components, I will try to moderate a
little bit.
I am over sixty and so I know the problems with needs of special glasses
to handle the
SMT components down at 603 or 402 ( 1  x 0.5mm).

So my idea is, not designing without SMT, but for those who like it,
provide kits with
premounted SMT , so that these users may build their kit without the
needToday  to handle and
solder SMT sand.

Today in some cases the wanted parts are no longer available as THT.
In the future this will be
the case for more and more parts. The most evil thing is, that some very
interesting part are even
today only available as BGA SMT which needs the handling by special
tools or machine just
for the placement ?!

So let's have fun and let's not forget to prepare a way for those which
can not or are unwilling to
solder SMT

Humberto

. Am 21.07.2014 14:40, schrieb N4OI - Ken:
 Wow -- I kind of touched a nerve with the big boy reference!  I recall this
 term was used by Dave Benson in some of his SWL kit documentation.  It
 merely referred the reader to a stripped-down section of the instructions if
 one wanted to bypass the lengthy, step-by-step narrative...  My point is
 that manufacturers, such as the premier innovator, Elecraft, should not be
 constrained in their product designs by offering only through-hole or
 solder-only kits. Why, even TenTec has leap-frogged the industry in this
 area with their open-source, Rebel QRP platforms! 

 I apologize for the poor use of words.  As a relative newcomer to ham radio,
 it was not my intention to denigrate anyone on this reflector - especially
 those who have vastly superior technical knowledge and capabilities.

 73



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-- 
Cumprimentos / Freundliche Grüsse / Best regards

Herbert W. Schulte


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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-20 Thread Humberto
Hi Wayne, hi K1 friends,

I followed the discussion about the 4 band module and the problems.
I can imagine to design a replacement board with four or even more 
bands in a way, that the problems with the alignment and the components
will be solved. I do not know, if the dialogue to the PIC was ever published
???
Because a board needs to do that dialogue for the bands that are provided.
I would redesign that board and offer it to the K1 family as a kit with 
presoldered smd and possibly with ready wound coils so that the handling
for the user could be easier ?

What do you think.. worth thinking about ???

73
Herbert
CT2IJD





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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-20 Thread Humberto
Hi Wayne, hi K1 friends,

I followed the discussion about the 4 band module and the problems.
I can imagine to design a replacement board with four or even more 
bands in a way, that the problems with the alignment and the components
will be solved. I do not know, if the dialogue to the PIC was ever published
???
Because a board needs to do that dialogue for the bands that are provided.
I would redesign that board and offer it to the K1 family as a kit with 
presoldered smd and possibly with ready wound coils so that the handling
for the user could be easier ?

What do you think.. worth thinking about ???

73
Herbert
CT2IJD



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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-20 Thread N4OI - Ken
I was reminded how capable the K1 is a couple weeks ago at a beach house at
Seabrook Island, SC...  I broke away from family activities for just a
couple hours one night and made solid K1 DX QSOs with Ukraine, Sweden, Italy
and others using just a lightweight 20 meter dipole tied to the corner of
the house and then slung over a big live oak branch.   Spanish moss hanging
on the wire overlooking about 15 square miles of salt marsh... Priceless!

Back to topic... perhaps it is time for Elecraft to start offering some big
boy kits that make full use of SMTs and other modern components.  Any
serious ham should have a good digital 'scope, and a hot air solder station
with a syringe of solder paste (which can be bought new for less than $100). 
With the right tools, SMTs are the way to go!

There is a lot of real estate available in the K1 enclosure; an updated
4-band board with some cool, new features to retrofit the K1 would be a
great first Elecraft big boy kit offering!  (I expect that if Elecraft
takes a pass on this opportunity, some enterprising Internet mom 'n pop shop
will step in.)

73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS DE KEN N4OI



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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-20 Thread Gil G.
I will second that.

I built two Weber MTRs and in many ways it was easier than through-hole, except 
for the size. I used a soldering iron.
“No soldering required” kits are no fun to me. I would never say that I built 
my KX3 for instance, only assembled it.

Gil.
--
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc

On Jul 20, 2014, at 8:30 AM, N4OI - Ken ke...@roadrunner.com wrote:

 Back to topic... perhaps it is time for Elecraft to start offering some big
 boy kits that make full use of SMTs and other modern components.  Any
 serious ham should have a good digital 'scope, and a hot air solder station
 with a syringe of solder paste (which can be bought new for less than $100). 
 With the right tools, SMTs are the way to go!

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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-20 Thread Phil Wheeler
Not all serious hams would agree with you. In my 
first SMT effort I was very careful but lost one 
part. Looked all over for it. Two days later I 
found it in my shoe.


I have paste, hot air gun, hot plate -- all the 
goodies -- but I try to avoid using them, a matter 
of mental stress -- and, to be honest, age. 
Something as complex as a K1 would be a bit much. 
I prefer the pre-mounted SMT component kits, if 
there are to be SMTs.


Phil W7OX

On 7/20/14, 5:30 AM, N4OI - Ken wrote:

Any
serious ham should have a good digital 'scope, and a hot air solder station
with a syringe of solder paste (which can be bought new for less than $100).
With the right tools, SMTs are the way to go!

73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS DE KEN N4OI




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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-20 Thread Ray Sills
And, not all hams are able to have a workbench or shack to house the  
needed gear.  Sometimes, things like that intervene.  While it would  
be nice to be able to build, not everyone can, even if they have the  
desire and experience.  Doesn't mean they aren't serious about ham  
radio.


73 de Ray
K2ULR
KX3 #211






On Jul 20, 2014, at 11:37 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

Not all serious hams would agree with you. In my first SMT effort  
I was very careful but lost one part. Looked all over for it. Two  
days later I found it in my shoe.


I have paste, hot air gun, hot plate -- all the goodies -- but I try  
to avoid using them, a matter of mental stress -- and, to be honest,  
age. Something as complex as a K1 would be a bit much. I prefer the  
pre-mounted SMT component kits, if there are to be SMTs.


Phil W7OX

On 7/20/14, 5:30 AM, N4OI - Ken wrote:

Any
serious ham should have a good digital 'scope, and a hot air solder  
station
with a syringe of solder paste (which can be bought new for less  
than $100).

With the right tools, SMTs are the way to go!

73 ES GOD BLESS U ES URS DE KEN N4OI




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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-20 Thread Gil G.
LOL, yes, size is definitely an issue. I use glasses, a magnifying lens and 
tweezers. You do not have to cut leads that end up everywhere though. It is 
precise work, no doubt, especially on the ICs. I know in ten or fifteen years I 
may not be able to see those parts anymore. I like SMT though, didn’t think I 
would. With good eyes and a steady hand, anyone can do it.

Gil.
--
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc

On Jul 20, 2014, at 11:37 AM, Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com wrote:

 Not all serious hams would agree with you. In my first SMT effort I was 
 very careful but lost one part. Looked all over for it. Two days later I 
 found it in my shoe.

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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-20 Thread Dave KW4M
And here's a third.

I built one of Weber's ATS-3B kits and use it on occasion, such as during 
Field Day 2011.
http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/HamRadio/FieldDay2011/FieldDay2011.htm   
The demand and popularity of his kits is evident as the last run of MTRs
sold out literally hours after it was released, see  here.
http://w2mdw.blogspot.com/2013/03/steve-webers-mountain-toper-radio-mtr.html  
 
There is definitely a niche for SMD kits requiring more builder expertise
and involvement than simply assembling modules together.

I would love to see an up-to-date SMD transceiver kit with a mix of features
lying somewhere between the MTR and the KX3, perhaps even call it a KX2 as
others have alluded to.  My vision for such a rig would be an integrated
station, multiband (at least 80 through 15) with no band module swapping,
half the volume or less of a KX3, with internal antenna tuner and battery,
and a very simple user interface.  It would be CW, or possibly include
additional modes but only if the associated volume increase is minimal.  I
could go on and on but you get the idea.

The KX3 is an awesome radio and I am definitely not criticizing it.  There
just seems to be a huge void between it and the lower-tier rigs.  And a
solder-required SMD kit is appealing to many builders.


Gil G. wrote
 I will second that.
 
 I built two Weber MTRs and in many ways it was easier than through-hole,
 except for the size. I used a soldering iron.
 “No soldering required” kits are no fun to me. I would never say that I
 built my KX3 for instance, only assembled it.
 
 Gil.
 --
 PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
 
 On Jul 20, 2014, at 8:30 AM, N4OI - Ken lt;

 kenst@

 gt; wrote:
 
 Back to topic... perhaps it is time for Elecraft to start offering some
 big
 boy kits that make full use of SMTs and other modern components.  Any
 serious ham should have a good digital 'scope, and a hot air solder
 station
 with a syringe of solder paste (which can be bought new for less than
 $100). 
 With the right tools, SMTs are the way to go!
 
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 Elecraft@.qth

 
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 lists+1215531472858-365791@.nabble





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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone? (Hand SMT---Never)

2014-07-20 Thread Mike Morrow
 ... perhaps it is time for Elecraft to start offering some big boy kits
 that make full use of SMTs and other modern components.

Some would likely take exception to that strong implication that one is
not a big boy (whatever that means) if one rejects significant SMT hand 
application.  I've been a ham almost 50 years, commercial radiotelegraph 
licensed until standards dropped 20 years ago, and an electrical engineer
for 40 years...is that big boy enough?  Perhaps not...yet I'm not hesitant to 
state that hand-application of SMT components is a half-vast :-)  
misapplication of technique to devices designed solely for machine placement.  
It should never be required in any step of production of a commercial
product, even for hams.  So, to any enterprise proposing to *sell* something
that requires significant SMT hand-application, I would *not* give such a
product even a moment's consideration.  OTOH, supply the PCBs with SMTs
pre-fixed by machine as designed, and I'll likely be very interested.

 Any serious ham should have a good digital 'scope, and a hot air solder
 station with a syringe of solder paste (which can be bought new for less
 than $100).

Well...there you go again.  I suspect most of us will just *never* qualify
as a N4OI serious ham, for lack of meeting these canonical and doubtless
universally-recognized requirements for the title. :-)

73,
Mike / KK5F

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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-20 Thread Phil Wheeler
Just imagine a KX3 kitted at the parts level. I 
wonder if the price would be less than the current 
offering?


Phil W7OX

On 7/20/14, 9:22 AM, Dave KW4M wrote:

And here's a third.

I built one of Weber's ATS-3B kits and use it on occasion, such as during
Field Day 2011.
http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/HamRadio/FieldDay2011/FieldDay2011.htm
The demand and popularity of his kits is evident as the last run of MTRs
sold out literally hours after it was released, see  here.
http://w2mdw.blogspot.com/2013/03/steve-webers-mountain-toper-radio-mtr.html
There is definitely a niche for SMD kits requiring more builder expertise
and involvement than simply assembling modules together.

I would love to see an up-to-date SMD transceiver kit with a mix of features
lying somewhere between the MTR and the KX3, perhaps even call it a KX2 as
others have alluded to.  My vision for such a rig would be an integrated
station, multiband (at least 80 through 15) with no band module swapping,
half the volume or less of a KX3, with internal antenna tuner and battery,
and a very simple user interface.  It would be CW, or possibly include
additional modes but only if the associated volume increase is minimal.  I
could go on and on but you get the idea.

The KX3 is an awesome radio and I am definitely not criticizing it.  There
just seems to be a huge void between it and the lower-tier rigs.  And a
solder-required SMD kit is appealing to many builders.


Gil G. wrote

I will second that.

I built two Weber MTRs and in many ways it was easier than through-hole,
except for the size. I used a soldering iron.
“No soldering required” kits are no fun to me. I would never say that I
built my KX3 for instance, only assembled it.

Gil.
--
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc

On Jul 20, 2014, at 8:30 AM, N4OI - Ken lt;
gt; wrote:


Back to topic... perhaps it is time for Elecraft to start offering some
big
boy kits that make full use of SMTs and other modern components.  Any
serious ham should have a good digital 'scope, and a hot air solder
station
with a syringe of solder paste (which can be bought new for less than
$100).
With the right tools, SMTs are the way to go!




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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-20 Thread Don Wilhelm

Phil,

I suspect the cost would be significantly greater than for the assembled 
board version that we have now.
To produce a kit, the parts would have to be pulled and counted, 
capacitors hand marked for values and packaged in some reasonable manner 
- that is a lot of labor cost.  Much greater than loading a reel of SMD 
components into an automated placement process as used in a board 
manufacturing house.


It is no wonder that we only see small projects in SMD format.  The 
Steve Weber transceiver kits are an exception.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2014 1:00 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
Just imagine a KX3 kitted at the parts level. I wonder if the price 
would be less than the current offering?


Phil W7OX



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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-20 Thread Phil Hystad
On assembling versus building...

I think my hobby of woodworking has almost ripped away my soldering iron from 
my hot little hands.  I still have a solder-kit sitting on my desk ready to be 
put together (the W1 meter) and it just sits there.  All my spare time this 
summer is building white oak deck chairs for the back patio.

Aside from that comment, I do enjoy soldering but I am very glad that Elecraft 
makes the assembly kits available to we the customers.  I like this because:

 --- I personally enjoy the process of putting it together and maybe even 
more
  then using a soldering iron (I really liked my Erector Set as a kid).

 --- I get enjoyment out of marveling at the great engineering and design 
that
  goes into the kits.

 --- I learn the inner workings somewhat so that future options are not a 
scary thing
  to install.

In this, soldering in a kit has no advantages to me as I will never been 
customizing or changing the workings
of my Elecraft gear.  Even the little electronics diddling that I do at rare 
times is via a breadboard approach
and again not using a soldering iron.

My two-bits.

73, phil, K7PEH



On Jul 20, 2014, at 7:38 AM, Gil G. g...@keskydee.com wrote:

 I will second that.
 
 I built two Weber MTRs and in many ways it was easier than through-hole, 
 except for the size. I used a soldering iron.
 “No soldering required” kits are no fun to me. I would never say that I built 
 my KX3 for instance, only assembled it.
 
 Gil.
 --
 PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
 
 On Jul 20, 2014, at 8:30 AM, N4OI - Ken ke...@roadrunner.com wrote:
 
 Back to topic... perhaps it is time for Elecraft to start offering some big
 boy kits that make full use of SMTs and other modern components.  Any
 serious ham should have a good digital 'scope, and a hot air solder station
 with a syringe of solder paste (which can be bought new for less than $100). 
 With the right tools, SMTs are the way to go!
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-20 Thread Phil Wheeler

That was my thinking, too, Don.

Phil W7OX

On 7/20/14, 10:16 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Phil,

I suspect the cost would be significantly 
greater than for the assembled board version 
that we have now.
To produce a kit, the parts would have to be 
pulled and counted, capacitors hand marked for 
values and packaged in some reasonable manner - 
that is a lot of labor cost.  Much greater than 
loading a reel of SMD components into an 
automated placement process as used in a board 
manufacturing house.


It is no wonder that we only see small projects 
in SMD format. The Steve Weber transceiver kits 
are an exception.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2014 1:00 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
Just imagine a KX3 kitted at the parts level. I 
wonder if the price would be less than the 
current offering?


Phil W7OX





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[Elecraft] K1 Serial #3198 FOR SALE

2014-07-20 Thread Michael Babb


I purchased and built a K1 Transceiver with a two-band module for 40 and 20 
meters at the end of 2012.  I immediately fell in love with Elecraft's 
products, and soon after ordered a KX3.  I don't do much portable operation, so 
the K1 has sat idle for about a year and a half. (The KX3 has found a permanent 
position on my operating desk in front of the Yaesu FT-2000!).

I have taken the K1 to the back yard a few times in the short time I've had it, 
and I can tell you it does a fantastic job.

Here is the rundown:  K1 Transceiver with 2-band module, S/N 3198; the 
backlight kit, the KAT1 Internal ATU, and the Finger Dimple.  I wisely ordered 
the pre-wound toroids for the transceiver from Mychael Morohovich, AA3WF(an 
Elecraft approved vendor), so all the toroids are properly wound and aligned.

I will sell the K1 and include the XIT XTHC40 medium hard photographic 
equipment carrying case I keep it in for $450.00.

PayPal preferred, but I will accept a check or postal money order.  Please 
contact me privately via email to work out the details.

Thank you for the bandwidth.


73,


Mike Babb, N4PF
Cynthiana, Kentucky
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone? (Hand SMT---Never)

2014-07-20 Thread Jim Lowman
I have to agree with Mike, especially with the assertion about SMT 
components being intended for robotic assembly.


Imagine all of the troubleshooting calls and e-mails that Elecraft would 
get if Joe Ham had to populate circuit boards with these miniature 
components.  Too much room for error.


While I'd prefer a through-hole kit where soldering was required 
(although I hate winding toroids!), like the K1 and K2, if the KX3 had 
even one SMT device, I would not have purchased one.


72/73 de Jim - AD6CW

On 7/20/2014 9:55 AM, Mike Morrow wrote:

... perhaps it is time for Elecraft to start offering some big boy kits
that make full use of SMTs and other modern components.

Some would likely take exception to that strong implication that one is
not a big boy (whatever that means) if one rejects significant SMT hand 
application.  I've been a ham almost 50 years, commercial radiotelegraph licensed until 
standards dropped 20 years ago, and an electrical engineer
for 40 years...is that big boy enough?  Perhaps not...yet I'm not hesitant to state 
that hand-application of SMT components is a half-vast :-)  misapplication of technique 
to devices designed solely for machine placement.  It should never be required in any step of 
production of a commercial
product, even for hams.  So, to any enterprise proposing to *sell* something
that requires significant SMT hand-application, I would *not* give such a
product even a moment's consideration.  OTOH, supply the PCBs with SMTs
pre-fixed by machine as designed, and I'll likely be very interested.


Any serious ham should have a good digital 'scope, and a hot air solder
station with a syringe of solder paste (which can be bought new for less
than $100).

Well...there you go again.  I suspect most of us will just *never* qualify
as a N4OI serious ham, for lack of meeting these canonical and doubtless
universally-recognized requirements for the title. :-)

73,
Mike / KK5F




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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone? (Hand SMT---Never)

2014-07-20 Thread Bruce Beford
While I understand this mindset; I for one, am grateful that there are
SMT-based kits available. I enjoy building both thru-hole and SMT based
projects. In many cases, thru hole equivalents are not available for some
components. I have built many all-SMT projects, notably those offered by
KD1JV,ad formerly NJQRP (now Midnight Design Solutions), among others. 

No, they are not for everyone. But- I am glad they are offered for those of
us who can and do enjoy building them. It is not nearly as difficult as some
seem to believe it to be. Different techniques are required, that's all. In
many cases, a much more compact package, or an otherwise impossible project
is the result.

Bruce/N1RX

 I have to agree with Mike, especially with the assertion about SMT 
 components being intended for robotic assembly.

 Imagine all of the troubleshooting calls and e-mails that Elecraft would 
 get if Joe Ham had to populate circuit boards with these miniature 
 components.  Too much room for error.

 While I'd prefer a through-hole kit where soldering was required 
 (although I hate winding toroids!), like the K1 and K2, if the KX3 had 
 even one SMT device, I would not have purchased one.

 72/73 de Jim - AD6CW



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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone? (Hand SMT---Never)

2014-07-20 Thread Russell Conner
Support your local maker space, they will likely have the gear and knowledge 
to do SMT… and probably a bunch of young guys that have never seen HAM before 
or know the potential.


On Jul 20, 2014, at 3:04 PM, Jim Lowman jmlow...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 I have to agree with Mike, especially with the assertion about SMT components 
 being intended for robotic assembly.
 
 Imagine all of the troubleshooting calls and e-mails that Elecraft would get 
 if Joe Ham had to populate circuit boards with these miniature components.  
 Too much room for error.
 
 While I'd prefer a through-hole kit where soldering was required (although I 
 hate winding toroids!), like the K1 and K2, if the KX3 had even one SMT 
 device, I would not have purchased one.
 
 72/73 de Jim - AD6CW
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone? (Hand SMT---Never)

2014-07-20 Thread Jim Lowman
More power to you and others who have the patience, equipment and 
eyesight/hand coordination to work with SMT devices, Bruce.
I think what many of us are saying, is that type of construction is not 
for everyone.


I have a nice Weller soldering station and a variety of tips for it, as 
well as enough 63/37 solder to last a lifetime.
Somehow it fell into my tool pouch from time to time, when I was in the 
Air Force working on air traffic control radar systems.  :-)
I'd rather spend my money on other items for the shack, than for the 
tools necessary to do SMT work.


Maybe if there hadn't been the inference that we weren't big boys if 
we didn't build kits with SMT devices, this thread may have passed, 
unnoticed.


73 de Jim - AD6CW

On 7/20/2014 4:32 PM, Bruce Beford wrote:

While I understand this mindset; I for one, am grateful that there are
SMT-based kits available. I enjoy building both thru-hole and SMT based
projects. In many cases, thru hole equivalents are not available for some
components. I have built many all-SMT projects, notably those offered by
KD1JV,ad formerly NJQRP (now Midnight Design Solutions), among others.

No, they are not for everyone. But- I am glad they are offered for those of
us who can and do enjoy building them. It is not nearly as difficult as some
seem to believe it to be. Different techniques are required, that's all. In
many cases, a much more compact package, or an otherwise impossible project
is the result.

Bruce/N1RX




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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone? (Hand SMT---Never)

2014-07-20 Thread Matt Maguire
My first experience with SMT was building a softrock multiband
receiver kit. It is a hybrid through hole/SMT kit, with few different
types of SMT devices. I really enjoyed building it, and learned a lot
from it, and would recommend it to anyone wanting to dip their toe in
the water, so to speak.

ObElecraftContent:
Elecraft does have a kit where you have to solder an SMT device -- the
wideband noise generator. I got to practice twice with that one: once
when I first build it, and then again after I have a little accident
with a transmitter :-)  I was going to try to remove the damaged
component with a hot air rework station that I picked up recently, but
with the plastic battery holder etc. nearby, thought better of it and
just snipped off the fried component with my side cutters, with no
dramas.
73, Matt VK2RQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone? (Hand SMT---Never)

2014-07-20 Thread Bruce Beford
I build all my SMT projects with my 30+ year old Weller WTCPT iron, and an
Optivisor. Have been for years now.
Bruce/N1RX
 
Jim/ AD6CW wrote:More power to you and others who have the patience,
equipment and 
eyesight/hand coordination to work with SMT devices, Bruce.
I think what many of us are saying, is that type of construction is not 
for everyone.
 
I have a nice Weller soldering station and a variety of tips for it, as 
well as enough 63/37 solder to last a lifetime.
Somehow it fell into my tool pouch from time to time, when I was in the 
Air Force working on air traffic control radar systems.  :-)
I'd rather spend my money on other items for the shack, than for the 
tools necessary to do SMT work.

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone? (Hand SMT---Never)

2014-07-20 Thread Phil Wheeler
Oh yes, that!  I didn't think of it as SMT because 
it has four leads.  Took me a while to figure out 
how to orient it, though. I sneezed and almost 
lost that critter.


And I have two spares -- so mine is likely to last 
forever.


Phil W7OX

On 7/20/14, 5:30 PM, Matt Maguire wrote:

ObElecraftContent:
Elecraft does have a kit where you have to solder an SMT device -- the
wideband noise generator. I got to practice twice with that one: once
when I first build it, and then again after I have a little accident
with a transmitter :-)  I was going to try to remove the damaged
component with a hot air rework station that I picked up recently, but
with the plastic battery holder etc. nearby, thought better of it and
just snipped off the fried component with my side cutters, with no
dramas.
73, Matt VK2RQ


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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-19 Thread David Gilbert


The only science I can think of has to do with propagation.  It seems to 
me that 20m/40m would give the best overall opportunity for use hour by 
hour over the course of a full sunspot cycle. Everything else pretty 
much just boils down to personal preference or available space for antennas.


73,
Dave   AB7E




On 7/17/2014 11:14 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:

I wonder if there is a science behind the logic in which two bands to choose to 
go together.

73, phil, K7PEH





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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-18 Thread mbyrd22
I am sad about the recent turn of events but not surprised. I bought the K1-2 
band right after it was available with an extra 2 band board. When the 4 band 
board was introduced, I jumped on that purchase. I will probably buy a few of 
the 2 band boards before they are gone. I don't want any portable style radio 
as that's not the way I operate.

I have used the K1-4 for several years and really love everything about it. I 
have earned DXCC on 40 meters with this radio so it does work well. I use an 
outboard SCAP filter that really makes a huge difference on receive.

I recently retired and did some updating/repair on my K1. I plan to operate 
this radio a lot more in the future.

Mike, AC4UR
http://sunbyrdpress.blogspot.com/p/amateur-radio.html

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[Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread Bruce Beford
All this talk about the K1 backlight led me to look back at the K1 order
page. There is no option for a 4-band version, nor for the KFL1-4 4-band
filter module itself. Is this an oversight, or has the 4-band board been
discontinued? If so, when and why? Also if so, then the K1 description page
should be edited to remove reference to the new 4 band board... or at
least explain that it is no longer available.

Bruce
N1RX


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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread Phil Wheeler

Yes, Bruce, it looks like this:


 /T//he K1...A compact, high-performance CW
 rig that _you_ can build./

//

/HF operation is more fun than ever these 
days--five watts is all you need to work worldwide 
DX. That's why we've packed up to four bands into 
our affordable, easy-to-build K1-4 transceiver. 
You can order the K1 as either a four-band radio 
*(K1-4)* or a two-band radio *(K1-2)*.  The new 
four-band K1-4 covers 40, 30, 20, and either 17 or 
15 meters. (All band parts are supplied with the 
kit and 17 or 15M are chosen as the last band at 
build time.) You can also upgrade the K1-2 to a 
K1-4 by purchasing the four-band KFL1-4  module 
and replacing the KFL1-2 in your original K1-2. 
The KFL1-2 two band module covers your choice of 
two bands (80, 40, 30 20, 17 and 15 meters 
available). Combining a K1-4 with an extra KFL1-2 
band module on 80 + (15 or 17M) gives you all six 
bands on your K1! Both module types simply plug in 
to the K1's main board, internally, and you can 
swap either type in at any time./



needs an edit -- unless lack of a 4-band module is 
a temporary situation. Perhaps Elecraft will 
clarify when their day begins soon.


Phil W7OX

On 7/17/14, 4:13 AM, Bruce Beford wrote:

All this talk about the K1 backlight led me to look back at the K1 order
page. There is no option for a 4-band version, nor for the KFL1-4 4-band
filter module itself. Is this an oversight, or has the 4-band board been
discontinued? If so, when and why? Also if so, then the K1 description page
should be edited to remove reference to the new 4 band board... or at
least explain that it is no longer available.

Bruce
N1RX


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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread Gil G.
I emailed Elecraft about it and they said the 4-band module is unlikely to come 
back.

http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,824.0.html

Gil.
--
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc

On Jul 17, 2014, at 11:47 AM, Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com wrote:

 needs an edit -- unless lack of a 4-band module is a temporary situation. 
 Perhaps Elecraft will clarify when their day begins soon.

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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread Bruce Beford
This is sad news indeed. I have built a few K1s, and repaired a few for
others. The 4 band board made for a very capable rig, without the swapping
that the 2 band version requires. A redesign/reintroduction would be nice,
but I imagine it's primarily a business decision, rather than strictly an
engineering one.
-Bruce/ N1RX

 I emailed Elecraft about it and they said the 4-band module is unlikely to
 come back.
 http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,824.0.html
Gil.



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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread Phil Wheeler
Bummer -- and Lisa's exact words from that link 
were more definite and final:


/The 4-band board was discontinued due to a part 
availability issue that was crucial to the 
functionality of the KF1-4. So no, it will not be 
coming back sorry to say./


The 4-band K1 is a really nice, small QRP radio -- 
with 5 Watts. Definitely a better CW receiver than 
the KX1 (4-pole filter, plenty of audio, etc.) and 
a more capable transmitter. Of course, not the 
freq coverage of the KX1 and not as tiny or trail 
friendly, but a very nice rig.


If I had to sell my KX1 or my K1 it would be the 
KX1. My K1 would make a capable 40-30-20-15 qrp CW 
based station, particularly after adding one of my 
audio filters.  KX3 is, of course, a far better 
option and I have one; but it is larger and much 
more expensive -- plus it's not a melt solder and 
wind toroid kit.


73, Phil

On 7/17/14, 8:55 AM, Gil G. wrote:

I emailed Elecraft about it and they said the 4-band module is unlikely to come 
back.

http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,824.0.html

Gil.


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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread Phil Hystad
And, here I was planning to get a 4-band K1 this fall.  Yes, real Bummer.

So, I figure that I could do one of the following:

 (1)Buy THREE 2-band K1 radios (saves on interchanging other bands).

 (2)Buy the Two band option board and get along with 4 bands.

 (3)Stick with just a 2-band K1.

I am going with the obvious, option (1).  OK, just kidding.  Option (2)  But at 
first I am starting just with Option (1).  I wonder if there is a science 
behind the logic in which two bands to choose to go together.

73, phil, K7PEH


On Jul 17, 2014, at 10:46 AM, Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com wrote:

 Bummer -- and Lisa's exact words from that link were more definite and final:
 
 /The 4-band board was discontinued due to a part availability issue that was 
 crucial to the functionality of the KF1-4. So no, it will not be coming back 
 sorry to say./
 
 The 4-band K1 is a really nice, small QRP radio -- with 5 Watts. Definitely a 
 better CW receiver than the KX1 (4-pole filter, plenty of audio, etc.) and a 
 more capable transmitter. Of course, not the freq coverage of the KX1 and not 
 as tiny or trail friendly, but a very nice rig.
 
 If I had to sell my KX1 or my K1 it would be the KX1. My K1 would make a 
 capable 40-30-20-15 qrp CW based station, particularly after adding one of my 
 audio filters.  KX3 is, of course, a far better option and I have one; but it 
 is larger and much more expensive -- plus it's not a melt solder and wind 
 toroid kit.
 
 73, Phil
 
 On 7/17/14, 8:55 AM, Gil G. wrote:
 I emailed Elecraft about it and they said the 4-band module is unlikely to 
 come back.
 
 http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,824.0.html
 
 Gil.
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread EricJ

Bad news...for those who don't have one.

The K1-4 was my introduction to both Elecraft and purpose-built QRP 
rigs. It's easily in the top 3 favorite radios I have owned in half a 
century. I think Gil called it a cute mini K2 in the link below, and 
that's a pretty good description. It's big enough to operate like a 
real radio in the shack. It's small enough to take anywhere. It tunes 
smoothly and sounds exceptionally good. It has everything you need for 
CW and nothing you don't.


The KX1 isn't a good substitute for the K1, in my opinion. It's a very 
specialized rig with lots of compromises for those who need minimum size 
and weight. After the initial fun of a new rig, my KX1 has been sitting 
on a shelf with very little use. Whenever I grab it to go camping, I 
pack the K1 as well just in case. Then I end up using the K1 the 
entire trip. If I was a backpacker, the roles would probably be 
reversed, though.


Anyway, re: K1-4. I got mine, and I'm KEEPING it. (hi)

Eric
KE6US







On 7/17/2014 8:55 AM, Gil G. wrote:

I emailed Elecraft about it and they said the 4-band module is unlikely to come 
back.

http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,824.0.html

Gil.
--
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc

On Jul 17, 2014, at 11:47 AM, Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com wrote:


needs an edit -- unless lack of a 4-band module is a temporary situation. 
Perhaps Elecraft will clarify when their day begins soon.

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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
The part that has become unavailable is the blue trimmer capacitors that 
are used for tuning the bandpass filters.  That does *not* spell demise 
of the K1, but only the 4 band board.


Yes, sorry that it is gone, but the K1 with a 2 band board and an extra 
2 band board will give you 4 band capability - and you can mix and match 
the 4 bands in any combination of 2 bands that you want. In other words, 
the choices are more flexible than with the 4 band board.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/17/2014 1:46 PM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
Bummer -- and Lisa's exact words from that link were more definite and 
final:


/The 4-band board was discontinued due to a part availability issue 
that was crucial to the functionality of the KF1-4. So no, it will not 
be coming back sorry to say./




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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread Wayne Burdick
Hi Bruce,

The 4-band module requires extremely low-temperature-coefficient trimmer 
capacitors because of its narrow-band pre-mix and RF band-pass filters. The 
last source for these exotic trimmers dried up recently. A redesign using 
higher-TC trimmers might be possible, but the filters would end up being 
triple-tuned, which would force the use of SMD components throughout, and 
tuning the filters would then be very difficult without a spectrum analyzer. 

Sales volume for the K1 has decreased in recent years due to the KX1 (which is 
smaller and has a DDS VFO), and the KX3 (which covers all bands, all modes, 
with up to 12 W output and has a much more capable auto tuner, nicer user 
interface, etc.). So the cost of a redesign wouldn't be recovered.

That said, for the time being we're continuing to offer the two-band version 
and the other options (KAT1 ATU, KBT1 battery pack, etc.). The K1 is one of our 
full kits, and has a bit of a fan club of its own.

We'll update the website to reflect the change in option availability.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Jul 17, 2014, at 4:13 AM, Bruce Beford bef...@myfairpoint.net wrote:

 All this talk about the K1 backlight led me to look back at the K1 order
 page. There is no option for a 4-band version, nor for the KFL1-4 4-band
 filter module itself. Is this an oversight, or has the 4-band board been
 discontinued? If so, when and why? Also if so, then the K1 description page
 should be edited to remove reference to the new 4 band board... or at
 least explain that it is no longer available.
 
 Bruce
 N1RX



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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread John Cooper
What is the crucial part that caused this? Inquiring minds wanna know.

WT5Y


Sent from my Cricket smartphone

 Original message 
From: EricJ eric_c...@hotmail.com 
Date: 07/17/2014  13:32  (GMT-06:00) 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone? 
 
Bad news...for those who don't have one.

The K1-4 was my introduction to both Elecraft and purpose-built QRP 
rigs. It's easily in the top 3 favorite radios I have owned in half a 
century. I think Gil called it a cute mini K2 in the link below, and 
that's a pretty good description. It's big enough to operate like a 
real radio in the shack. It's small enough to take anywhere. It tunes 
smoothly and sounds exceptionally good. It has everything you need for 
CW and nothing you don't.

The KX1 isn't a good substitute for the K1, in my opinion. It's a very 
specialized rig with lots of compromises for those who need minimum size 
and weight. After the initial fun of a new rig, my KX1 has been sitting 
on a shelf with very little use. Whenever I grab it to go camping, I 
pack the K1 as well just in case. Then I end up using the K1 the 
entire trip. If I was a backpacker, the roles would probably be 
reversed, though.

Anyway, re: K1-4. I got mine, and I'm KEEPING it. (hi)

Eric
KE6US







On 7/17/2014 8:55 AM, Gil G. wrote:
 I emailed Elecraft about it and they said the 4-band module is unlikely to 
 come back.

 http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,824.0.html

 Gil.
 --
 PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc

 On Jul 17, 2014, at 11:47 AM, Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com wrote:

 needs an edit -- unless lack of a 4-band module is a temporary situation. 
 Perhaps Elecraft will clarify when their day begins soon.
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
The K1 can remember the frequency offset settings for 6 bands, so having 
3 2-band boards is quite practical.  You get to choose which 2 bands go 
together on one board for most of your operating pleasure.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/17/2014 2:14 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

And, here I was planning to get a 4-band K1 this fall.  Yes, real Bummer.

So, I figure that I could do one of the following:

  (1)Buy THREE 2-band K1 radios (saves on interchanging other bands).

  (2)Buy the Two band option board and get along with 4 bands.

  (3)Stick with just a 2-band K1.

I am going with the obvious, option (1).  OK, just kidding.  Option (2)  But at 
first I am starting just with Option (1).  I wonder if there is a science 
behind the logic in which two bands to choose to go together.




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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread Bruce Beford
Thanks for taking the time to reply with the details, Wayne. It's a shame. I
(and many others) feel the K1 has some advantages over the KX1, such as the
analog VFO, higher output power, and 4-pole filtering. It's internal antenna
matching unit also offers more tuning range than the KX1. I have also built
a 160m/80m 2 band board for mine. 

I have built and own all the Elecraft rigs, and each has provided great
enjoyment, each has it's strong points.

Time marches own, it would be wonderful if a 4-band redesign solution could
be found, using modern components. Perhaps a pre-built, pre-tuned SMD based
board. But, I imagine the potential sales volume would not justify the
costs. Too bad.

Bruce/N1RX

-Original Message-
From: Wayne Burdick [mailto:n...@elecraft.com] 
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2014 2:43 PM
To: Bruce Beford
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: K1-4 4 band version gone?

Hi Bruce,

The 4-band module requires extremely low-temperature-coefficient trimmer
capacitors because of its narrow-band pre-mix and RF band-pass filters. The
last source for these exotic trimmers dried up recently. A redesign using
higher-TC trimmers might be possible, but the filters would end up being
triple-tuned, which would force the use of SMD components throughout, and
tuning the filters would then be very difficult without a spectrum analyzer.


Sales volume for the K1 has decreased in recent years due to the KX1 (which
is smaller and has a DDS VFO), and the KX3 (which covers all bands, all
modes, with up to 12 W output and has a much more capable auto tuner, nicer
user interface, etc.). So the cost of a redesign wouldn't be recovered.

That said, for the time being we're continuing to offer the two-band version
and the other options (KAT1 ATU, KBT1 battery pack, etc.). The K1 is one of
our full kits, and has a bit of a fan club of its own.

We'll update the website to reflect the change in option availability.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Jul 17, 2014, at 4:13 AM, Bruce Beford bef...@myfairpoint.net wrote:

 All this talk about the K1 backlight led me to look back at the K1 order
 page. There is no option for a 4-band version, nor for the KFL1-4 4-band
 filter module itself. Is this an oversight, or has the 4-band board been
 discontinued? If so, when and why? Also if so, then the K1 description
page
 should be edited to remove reference to the new 4 band board... or at
 least explain that it is no longer available.
 
 Bruce
 N1RX






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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread Mike Morrow
Wayne wrote:

 The 4-band module requires extremely low-temperature-coefficient
 trimmer capacitors because of its narrow-band pre-mix and RF band-pass
 filters. The last source for these exotic trimmers dried up recently.

If all the other parts of the KFL1-4 were still stocked, perhaps those
original white ceramic trimmer capacitors could be used again.  I used
my KFL1-4 for two years with those because I did not want to pull and
rebuild the KFL1-4 I built in 2001 after the blue trimmers were made
available.  Yes, I did need to re-align my KFL1-4 about every six months
when the original white capacitors were still in place.

This would be an unfortunate compromise, but I'd rather have even the
original KFL1-4 with those problematic trimmers than use two KFL1-2
filters to get four bands.  I used two KFL1-2 boards (40/20m and 30/15m)
prior to the availability of the KFL1-4.

 Sales volume for the K1 has decreased in recent years due to the KX1
 (which is smaller and has a DDS VFO)...

I greatly prefer the performance and physical form of the K1 over that
of the KX1.  I never bought the BS that some KX1 owners slung around
after KX1 introduction that the KX1 replaced the K1.  Did it??  Try
using that KX1 on 15 or 17 meters.  Even for backpacking, the K1 is a
far better radio to cart along if ham CW band RF performance is valued.
The K1 is also less quirky to build than a 80/40/30/20m full-house KX1.

 ...and the KX3...

I believe that there are a number of advantages of the K1 over the KX3
when the extreme sophistication of the KX3 is not required.  The K1 is
much lighter, less bulky, much lower power consumption, and is incredibly
easier to fully master than the KX3 is at even the neophyte level.

I purchased the K1 after seeing its introduction at Dayton 2000, and then
waited the six months for delivery of #175 in November 2000.  After almost
14 years it remains my favorite and most utilized HF ham rig owned in 46
years as a ham.  It is a very very good radio, and I greatly admire Wayne's
design for this classic QRP rig.  Thanks, Wayne.

 So the cost of a redesign wouldn't be recovered.

I've always thought that the K1-line would be the first to be discontinued.
I am pleasantly surprised that the *start* of that is happening *only* now.
It was a very good run for a great QRP radio...those 14 years!  If you don't
have one, get one with a KFL1-2 is still available.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread Jessie Oberreuter


 Here's another thought that perhaps one of us could put together: 
give up the internal battery space for a considerably larger filter board 
that could be used to allow room for additional 2 band style filters 
that don't share components (and, thus, don't need high-tolerance parts). 
No new parts would be needed; the existing 2-band parts kits, and the 
controller from the 4-band board would serve.
 This would also open the door for selecting a completely arbitrary 
set of four bands (eg 15/20/40/80) as the filters would, again, be 
completely independent of each other.
 I'll have to give mine a close look for mechanical feasibility when I 
get home.  -kb7psg




On Thu, 17 Jul 2014, Wayne Burdick wrote:

The 4-band module requires extremely low-temperature-coefficient trimmer 
capacitors because of its narrow-band pre-mix and RF band-pass filters. 
The last source for these exotic trimmers dried up recently. A redesign 
using higher-TC trimmers might be possible, but the filters would end up 
being triple-tuned, which would force the use of SMD components 
throughout, and tuning the filters would then be very difficult without 
a spectrum analyzer.


Sales volume for the K1 has decreased in recent years due to the KX1 
(which is smaller and has a DDS VFO), and the KX3 (which covers all 
bands, all modes, with up to 12 W output and has a much more capable 
auto tuner, nicer user interface, etc.). So the cost of a redesign 
wouldn't be recovered.


That said, for the time being we're continuing to offer the two-band 
version and the other options (KAT1 ATU, KBT1 battery pack, etc.). The 
K1 is one of our full kits, and has a bit of a fan club of its own.


We'll update the website to reflect the change in option availability.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread Mike Morrow
Don wrote:

The K1 can remember the frequency offset settings for 6 bands...

The K1 remembers the frequency display calibration settings (OFS)
for all *nine* HF bands between 160m and 10m (60m is excluded),
and automatically uses the one previously stored for a particular
band when that band gets assigned to a filter board's b1 or b2.  

 ...so having 3 2-band boards is quite practical.  You get to
 choose which 2 bands go together on one board for most of your
 operating pleasure.

It is worth noting that a small problem will arise if multiple
KFL1-2 boards are built that duplicate one of the bands...such
as a board for 40/20 and a board for 40/15, both for the same K1.
The K1 MCU can remember only *one* frequency display calibration
setting per band.  In the example I use above, one of those two
boards will have some calibration error on 40m unless the 40m
heterodyne crystal frequencies of both filter boards are very
nearly the same frequency.  They'll likely be close enough.

Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread Mike Morrow
Jessie wrote:

 I'll have to give mine a close look for mechanical feasibility when I 
 get home.

It is not feasible.

Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4band version gone?

2014-07-17 Thread Joe W2KJ
Howdy Fellow Elecrafters:

OK...it's so obvious even I figured it out.

Notice that we have a KX1 and a KX3??

What happened to the KX2??  Well, read on.

I predict the next new transceiver from Elecraft will render obsolete the K1-4 
and KX1 obsolete...it will be called, obviously,  the KX2.

It will be a CW only all band 160M-6M DDS VFO controlled Direct Conversion SDR 
ala the KX3 but much smaller.

Perfect for field use it will become the new rage of the SOTA and IOTA crowd as 
well as the QRP community in general that likes to take their rigs out for 
portable OPS.

OK Waynesorry I let the cat out of the bag but at times I am just so darn 
prescient it surprises me.

So, when can we expect the new KX2 to be available for order??

OK...OK...All of the above said with tongue firmly placed inside of 
cheek.but it is just too nice to think about.

I really wonder why the KX2 nomenclature has been skipped???

Am I on to something???  (large grin).

73, Joe W2KJ
I QRP, therefore I am


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