Re: [Elecraft] New K2

[Robert G. Strickland]

Good luck and have fun, lots of it. Don't hesitate to drop a question in 
here if/when they come up.

...robert

Patrick Bourgeois wrote:
> My Kit just arrived WOO HOO, I will start with the inventory this afternoon, 
> suppose to be rainy this Saturday so guess that is what I will be doing.   
> Got the rework eliminators so that is a go, solder, pcb vice and bench ready 
> to go...   I will keep ya posted on my progress.
> 
> KE5EBS
> 
> Patrick
> 
> _
> The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:032010_3
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-- 
Robert G. Strickland, PhD, ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net
Syracuse, New York, USA
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RE: [Elecraft] New K2

[Darwin, Keith]

Yea, we know all that, but what's the SN?

LOL!!

Congrats on the new kit.  They are daunting at first but remember
they're built one part at a time.  If you can solder one resistor on the
board you can build the whole kit.  And you'll have fun doing it.

For me the day it arrived was an "oh-no-what-have-I-gotten-myself-into"
day.  Now that the rig is built and running, I experience a
"wow-Wow-WOW" every time I turn it on and work a station.

73!

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 - 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 9:12 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] New K2

Just got my K2 , SSB, battery, DSP .. wow wow WOW

counting parts now..
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RE: [Elecraft] new k2..

[Gregg R. Lengling]

What's the serial #? I know they are getting up there.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of sergio t. ruiz
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 10:05 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] new k2..


my k2 was just delivered by the ups man!

-- 
___
peace,
sergio
photographer, journalist, visionary
www.village-buzz.com


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RE: [Elecraft] new k2..

[Charles Pitts]

Congrats Sergio,
What's the serial Number?
73,
Charles N3EJS
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of sergio t. ruiz
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2007 11:05 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] new k2..


my k2 was just delivered by the ups man!

-- 
___
peace,
sergio
photographer, journalist, visionary
www.village-buzz.com
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2

[Bob]

Brent Sutphin wrote:


I have a new K2 on the way, just couldn't stand it any longer.  Hope it turns 
out as good as my old trustworthy #2571.  Just curious, what's the latest 
serial number being shipped?

Brent  
WB4X 

 

I received #5419 last week. Got through Alignment and Test Part 1 
Saturday, just before I ran out of solder... =-O


Bob
WB0BS

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RE: [Elecraft] New K2

[Darwin, Keith]

My K2 arrived about 2 weeks ago.  SN 5411

- Keith KD1E - 

-Original Message-

Just curious, what's the latest serial number being shipped?
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Re: [Elecraft] new K2

[Don Wilhelm]

Oscar,

Set the menu CAL CUR to 3.50 for starters.

Do a quick test - connect an in-line wattmeter between your K2 and a 
dummy load.

Set the power to 5 watts (or for a K2/100 to 50 watts).
Then do a TUNE.  Observe the power indicated on the external wattmeter 
as well as the power indicated on the K2 display.


If a K2/10, does the power on the external wattmeter indicate in excess 
of 12 watts while the K2 display shows a low power?  If so diodes D1 and 
D2 in the KAT2 have been damaged and need to be replaced.  If you do not 
have the KAT2, then diode D9 in the K2 RF board needs to be replaced.


If a K2/100, the power should be 25 watts on the external wattmeter and 
the K2 display should be near 25 watts.  If the actual power is greater 
than 25 watts, then the KPA100 diodes D16 and D17 are damaged and need 
to be replaced.



73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/25/2016 11:15 PM, Oscar Castillo wrote:

hello to all,

  i just get a nice K2 already build, tonight i doing inicial test and get
the Hi Cur message if i go above 5.5 watts on 40 meters and about 8 or so
in others bands, is this normal? no more that 5 watts? power supply 13.8 V,
20 amps...

where to star...

regards!!



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Re: [Elecraft] New K2

[Mike Harris]

G'day,

There's at least two ways of looking at that.  Good luck never the less.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO


Hi friends!
I feel like a woman who knows that she will soon be pregnant!
I just ordered a K2!

Yves Dussault-VE2ATD
Laval, Québec.
450 661-0768


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RE: [Elecraft] New K2

[ron]

Did you mean:
Now I know what a woman feels like knowing she will soon be pregnant???

Smile,
Ron wb1hga
"CW, an esoteric experience"
 

Yves writes:
Hi friends!
I feel like a woman who knows that she will soon be pregnant!
I just ordered a K2!

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RE: [Elecraft] New K2 now!

[Bruce McLaughlin]

I am sorry to hear about your misfortune with the shipping.  But
congratulations on deciding to build the K2.  I built my K2/100 with most
accessories several years ago.  It did take a while because I decided to go
slowly and carefully.  But it was very satisfying to see what was originally
a large collection of parts gradually morph into a recognizable radio.  It
was even more satisfying when I applied power the first time and it did what
it was supposed to do!  In the end I had a very nice radio indeed.  If you
take it easy and carefully check what you do you should have no problems. I
wish you the best of luck.  There a lot of very knowledgeable people on this
reflector who will gladly help if you do run into any problems.

Bruce - W8FU

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of edward kacura
Sent: Thursday, August 28, 2008 1:11 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 now!

Good morning,some of you may remember I bought a used bare bones K2 on ebay
about two weeks ago-s/n 5801.It was completely destroyed,according to
FedEx!Well,after much thought and consideration,I decided to go the kit
route! I received my new K2 yesterday-s/n 6576 from Elecraft! Iam no
electrical or electronics engineer,I built some kits as youngster,and a few
more the last few years(very simple and basic).I can solder,and read
directions,so I figure that's half the battle in building the K2!It looks a
little overwhelming at this point,but I think Iam ready to tackle this BIG
project!Hopefully,I won't run into any problems,but I know where to turn if
I do.I'll let everyone know when its up and running.73 de Ed N7EDK
Marana,AZ.


  
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Internal Virus Database is out of date.
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 now!

[David Wilburn]

Ditto what Bruce said.  I purchased my K2 to get the radio that fit my 
needs.  I did not focus on the building.  But it turned out to be much 
more fun than expected.  The directions are very straight forward.  Do 
your inventories, and just start working your way through the parts.


Before you know it, the front panel and control board will be 
together.  Then you start on he RF board.  The majority of it is just 
putting the right part in the right place, and soldering it well. 
Once you start doing some checks, you will really feel a sense of 
accomplishment.


A great radio, and you learn something too.  Both about the equipment 
and yourself.  It doesn't get much better than that.


David Wilburn
K4DGW
www.k4dgw.com
www.k4rc.net
Williamsburg Area Amateur Radio Club (K4RC)

K2 S/N 5982
K3 S/N 766



edward kacura wrote:

Good morning,some of you may remember I bought a used bare bones K2 on ebay 
about two weeks ago-s/n 5801.It was completely destroyed,according to 
FedEx!Well,after much thought and consideration,I decided to go the kit route! 
I received my new K2 yesterday-s/n 6576 from Elecraft! Iam no electrical or 
electronics engineer,I built some kits as youngster,and a few more the last few 
years(very simple and basic).I can solder,and read directions,so I figure 
that's half the battle in building the K2!It looks a little overwhelming at 
this point,but I think Iam ready to tackle this BIG project!Hopefully,I won't 
run into any problems,but I know where to turn if I do.I'll let everyone know 
when its up and running.73 de Ed N7EDK Marana,AZ.


  
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 now!

[David Wilburn]

Your message reminds me of an important point.  Set aside a certain 
amount of time to work on the rig.  For most people, more than 2 or 3 
hours, and it is easy to get frustrated or make a mistake.  This is an 
important piece.  If you are getting tired or frustrated, pack your 
stuff up and walk away.


In the craft section of the department store, I picked up containers, 
with lids, that had a bunch of little compartments.  I sorted my caps 
(lots of caps) into one of this, and resistors and other hardware into 
another.  All of the ESD sensitive items (chips, diodes and such) 
stayed in their ESD bags.  This allowed me to 'close up shop' so to speak.


You can start this sorting and setup now.  Even reading through the 
manual.  All these little items pay big dividends latter on.  73 es 
look forward to catching you a little further down the log.


David Wilburn
K4DGW
www.k4dgw.com
www.k4rc.net




edward kacura wrote:

Thanks to all of you for the encouragement and advice on building my new K2,I 
feel better about it already!This will take a while thou,I can't get stated 
right away.Too much coming up in the next two weeks,a little at a time.Thanks 
once more,I know I made the right choice to go with the kit now!73 de 
Ed,N7EDK--K2 s/n 6576.


  
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 now!

[David Lankshear]

Ed, I just noticed something different on a current KPA100 I'm building for 
someone and it may be the same with your K2.

The KPA100 PCB is an ROHS one with soldering lands gold plated.  I don't know 
if that has anything to do with what I've noticed, but it's something I never 
saw on the earlier roller tinned PCBs I've worked on - and there have been a 
few!

When inserting a component after bending its leads, if the leads are scraped as 
they are pushed into the plated through holes, sometimes a tiny whisker of 
tinning is scraped off the leads.  This could lead to shorts if left on the 
board, so now after insertion and soldering, I check carefully around the lead 
entry points on the component's side of the board and if I see a whisker, I 
brush it off with a small paintbrush.

As for tools for the job, I find a small pair of Spencer-Wells forceps (artery 
clamps, often used by fishermen to winkle the hook out of the innards of their 
catch), a pair of good tweezers and also a thin rod of - almost anything - with 
a blob of Blu-Tak (sticky stuff) on the end is so useful for swift retrieval of 
items that "think" they've escaped the soldering iron.  

Good luck with the construction, just follow the instructions and you'll have 
something to be proud of at the end.

73  DaveL  G3TJP
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Owner

[Bill Coleman]

On Jun 8, 2010, at 10:30 PM, Eugene Balinski wrote:

> 1) When I tune in a CW station and narrow the CW filter
> with XFIL switch, I need to re-tune the radio to recenter
> the signal. Is this an issue with the alignment,
> or are there other settings that may be in play ?

Quite possibly the BFO values aren't as close as they could be. Because of the 
BFO quantization, it isn't always possible to get all the filter settings 
exactly on the same frequency. An offset of up to 20 Hz may be the best you can 
do. If it is much more than this, though, you can adjust it to be closer using 
CAL FIL.

> 2) Memories. How does one toggle between the memories and
> the VFOs ? I would like to load the 60M frequencies in the
> memories and be able to toggle back to the VFOs for general
> operation.

I haven't used the memories much, but I don't recall being able to "tune" the 
memories. I believe selecting a memory pulls it back into the VFO.

> 3) VFO Mode track. When changing the VFO from A - B, the
> mode does not change. In other words, if I have CW mode on
> VFO A, and I swap to VFO B, the modes remains CW until I
> manually change it to SSB. If I change the VFO back to VFO
> A, the mode will stay SSB and does not return to CW as was
> first entered. Is this normal for this rig ? 

The VFO does not store the mode. The mode is stored per-band. It is normal.

> 4) I understand that there is a preferred replacement for
> the main tuning knob from Kenwood ?   Can someone point me
> in the right direction ? 

Some people are using the knob from the Yaesu FT-100. I would search the email 
reflector archives for the details.

I make do with the FingerDimple addition sold by Elecraft. I think it is about 
$6.


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Owner

[Don Wilhelm]

Gene,

For your first question, yes you need to align the filters in the K2.  
It is actually an easy process, but is best done using Spectrogram as an 
aid to visually see when the filter passbands are positioned correctly 
at your chosen sidetone pitch.  You will need the internal counter probe 
to do that job.  Hopefully the prior owner supplied that with the K2.  
You may want to do the whole frequency calibration process while you are 
at it.
For an explanation of the process see the K2 Dial Calibration article on 
my website www.w3fpr.com - it includes both the dial calibration and the 
filter alignment.

As for the other questions, well, that is just the way the K2 works, so 
you will have to eitehr get used to it or develop work-arounds that work 
for you.

73,
Don W3FPR

Eugene Balinski wrote:
> All,
>
> I just acquired a (new to me) K2/100. It is a phenomenal
> little radio.
>
> The manual is not the clearest I have seen, so I do have a
> few questions.
>
> 1) When I tune in a CW station and narrow the CW filter
> with XFIL switch, I need to re-tune the radio to recenter
> the signal. Is this an issue with the alignment,
> or are there other settings that may be in play ?
>
> 2) Memories. How does one toggle between the memories and
> the VFOs ? I would like to load the 60M frequencies in the
> memories and be able to toggle back to the VFOs for general
> operation.
>
> 3) VFO Mode track. When changing the VFO from A - B, the
> mode does not change. In other words, if I have CW mode on
> VFO A, and I swap to VFO B, the modes remains CW until I
> manually change it to SSB. If I change the VFO back to VFO
> A, the mode will stay SSB and does not return to CW as was
> first entered. Is this normal for this rig ? 
>
> 4) I understand that there is a preferred replacement for
> the main tuning knob from Kenwood ?   Can someone point me
> in the right direction ? 
>
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> 73
> Gene K1NR
> -
> Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider.
> http://www.nni.com/
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>   
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Owner

[Alan D. Wilcox]

Gene,
To answer the knob question, see 
http://wilcoxengineering.com/amateur-radio/elecraft-k2 about a third 
down the page. I used a Yaesu FT-100 knob and it works fine. Many folks 
use the original ... it's personal preference.
Alan

Alan D. Wilcox, W3DVX (K2-5373, K3-40)
570-321-1516
http://WilcoxEngineering.com
Williamsport, PA 17701 


Eugene Balinski wrote:
> All,
>
> I just acquired a (new to me) K2/100. It is a phenomenal
> little radio.
> 
>
> 4) I understand that there is a preferred replacement for
> the main tuning knob from Kenwood ?   Can someone point me
> in the right direction ? 
>
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> 73
> Gene K1NR
>   

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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build!

[David Wilburn]

With rework eliminators, you build "headers" (can be thought of as place 
holders), and add all needed components for the features you want.  Then 
when you decide to build the features, you just unplug the headers and 
plug in the new feature.  The alternative requires complete disassembly 
of the K2 along with the addition and removal of various components to 
add a new feature.  This comes into play more if you have a problem, or 
something breaks.  The feature that breaks can be unplugged and the 
header put back in place.  The phrase plug-and-play covers it pretty well.


David Wilburn
NM4M




Michael Harvey wrote:

I am prepping to build another K2 and was wondering what rework eliminators to 
add.
 
I plan to add most options eventually. The K2 I currently use I did not build but the rework eliminators seem like a good investment.
 
Is there a kit including all the eliminators?
 
Thanks!
 
Mike

AB0TX
 
K2 #4841___

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RE: [Elecraft] New K2 build...

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

RFC15 should be Brown-Black-Brown (100 uH). I believe the only component in
the K2 with the color code Green-Brown-Green is 5.1 Megohm resistor R116
that goes across L116 that you'll install shortly (page 60 of the rev G
manual). 

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 10:33 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build...


Hello,

I was wondering if anyone else has built a K2 lately. I am in build phase II
and I am to install an RF Choke on the back of the board, it's item ID is
RFC15. The manual says to expect a sub miniature with Brown-Black-Brown.
However, my sub miniature RF Choke is Green-Brown-Green. Is this a recent
change that is not noted in the construction manual?

Best Regards,
Steve
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build...

[Don Wilhelm]

Steve,

Look more closely at the bands - I would bet it has a green body and you 
are confusing the color code bands with the body color.


A green - black - green RF choke would have a value of 5,,000 uH, 
and I don't believe that large an inductance would be practical in a 
choke of the size you have in hand.


73,
Don W3FPR

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hello,

I was wondering if anyone else has built a K2 lately. I am in build phase
II and I am to install an RF Choke on the back of the board, it's item ID
is RFC15. The manual says to expect a sub miniature with
Brown-Black-Brown. However, my sub miniature RF Choke is
Green-Brown-Green. Is this a recent change that is not noted in the
construction manual?

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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build...

[k2]

Hey Guys,

Thanks everyone for your help, you guys are quick. I found out that I
didn't get an errata sheet with my K2 and Elecraft has replaced the sub
miniature Chokes with larger ones. I guess some people were having
problems with how fragile the minis were. So, I was actually looking at
R116, the only sub mini left, it wasn't a choke at all.

Best Regards,
Steve

> Hello,
>
> I was wondering if anyone else has built a K2 lately. I am in build phase
> II and I am to install an RF Choke on the back of the board, it's item ID
> is RFC15. The manual says to expect a sub miniature with
> Brown-Black-Brown. However, my sub miniature RF Choke is
> Green-Brown-Green. Is this a recent change that is not noted in the
> construction manual?
>
> Best Regards,
> Steve
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build...

[sbm]

On Sat, 21 Jul 2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I was wondering if anyone else has built a K2 lately. I am in build phase
II and I am to install an RF Choke on the back of the board, it's item ID
is RFC15. The manual says to expect a sub miniature with
Brown-Black-Brown. However, my sub miniature RF Choke is
Green-Brown-Green. Is this a recent change that is not noted in the
construction manual?


There is a change indeed.  I noted it for future building once I'm past 
correcting the build of my control board


Will
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build.

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I'm assuming you mean the epoxy that the cap is dipped in.
I've never removed it; I'm not sure but I think doing so may damage the sealing 
quality of the epoxy.






  From: Thomas Skinner 
 To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
 Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2015 10:49 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build.
   
As I prepare to build my second k2, my mind drifts back to the hours I spent 
with the little ceramic caps.

 They all had the bonding material over flowing the lead shoulders.  I spent 
hours cleaning that hardened material off the leads before soldering them in 
place.

The QUESTION:

Did I need to remove the extra material or should I just have dropped them in 
and made sure they got soldered properly?

Tia, 

Tom, ng3v

Sent from my iPhone 6

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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build.

[Brian Denley]

You should have soldered them in 'as is'.

Brian Denley
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 22, 2015, at 10:49 AM, Thomas Skinner  wrote:
> 
> As I prepare to build my second k2, my mind drifts back to the hours I spent 
> with the little ceramic caps.
> 
> They all had the bonding material over flowing the lead shoulders.  I spent 
> hours cleaning that hardened material off the leads before soldering them in 
> place.
> 
> The QUESTION:
> 
> Did I need to remove the extra material or should I just have dropped them in 
> and made sure they got soldered properly?
> 
> Tia, 
> 
> Tom, ng3v
> 
> Sent from my iPhone 6
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build

[Jim KO5V]

Hi Bruce, 

You're gonna' love building this kit! I just finished my 3rd one, plus the 100 
W amp and tuner, and I have been having a lot of fun with it the last week or 
so.

Yes, you want to build the basic cw kit first, then add options but if you read 
the SSB kit's manual (and the others), it shows you where you can add a few 
components during the initial build, so a ton of rework isn't necessary when 
you want to add SSB. The rework eliminators were a nice addition, but not 
necessary. I used them on the first one, but not this time. I've finally 
finished and installed all of the K2's options, and there was no complicated 
rework for any of them - that was my experience, anyway.

There is great support on this list, and at least in my experience, nobody will 
criticize you for dumb questions - at least in public ;)

Enjoy, and don't be shy about asking for help.

73, Jim KO5V
Edgewood, NM


"I have taken advantage of Elecraft’s National Hobby Month offer and now have a 
K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to build.


My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in the 
options as completed? 

From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed K2 
before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo work.

Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution to 
my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.

So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear from other 
K2 builders.

I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland - 46 
hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!

Thank you.

Bruce 

GM4BDJ"
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build

[Don Wilhelm]

Bruce,

Yes, build the K2 first - there is a point where the manual tells you 
that you can add such things as the Front Panel components for the KSB2, 
and headers for other options.  Do NOT attempt to add parts of the K60XV 
option until you have finished building and testing the basic K2.


There are not really many parts to remove - C167 for the KSB2 plus 2 
jumpers (which can be cut if you prefer.  For the K160RX only a jumper 
removal and the addition of 3 capacitors.  For the KNB2, one jumper and 
remove 3 resistors.  The KAF2 requires only 2 jumpers to be removed 
(those cannot be cut), and the K60XV requires only the removal and 
replacement of one capacitor.


You must have done something to expedite that order - UPS Ground 
delivery here in the US is usually 5 to 7 days unless it is to the same 
state or one adjacent where the delivery is next day to 3 days.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/20/2019 1:32 PM, Bruce McCartney via Elecraft wrote:

I have taken advantage of Elecraft’s National Hobby Month offer and now have a 
K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to build.

My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in the 
options as completed?

 From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed K2 
before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo work.

Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution to 
my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.

So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear from other 
K2 builders.

I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland - 46 
hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!



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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build

[Robert G Strickland]

Bruce...
Congratulations! Don is the one to answer your specific question(s). I'm 
just glad for you and the fun you're about to have. It's just a great 
radio, and I'm sure that, in the end, you will be much more than 
satisfied with yourself and with the radio.


...robert

On 1/20/2019 18:32, Bruce McCartney via Elecraft wrote:

I have taken advantage of Elecraft’s National Hobby Month offer and now have a 
K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to build.

My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in the 
options as completed?

From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed K2 
before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo work.

Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution to 
my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.

So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear from other 
K2 builders.

I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland - 46 
hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!

Thank you.

Bruce

GM4BDJ
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--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build

[hawley, charles j jr]

I did one K2... started in ‘99 and finished in 2010.  There was an addition to 
the house and a move of the shack in between. I had to write my own assembly 
manual to include all the mods, changes, and accessories. Worked when I turned 
it on. No reworks. I like the sound better than the K3.

Chuck 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jan 21, 2019, at 8:55 AM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
>   Hello Bruce --
> 
> I have built three K2s, with almost every accessory and option there is other 
> than the transverters.  I agree with all who have advised that the K2 be 
> finished first and, except for the indicated KSB2 bits, then do the add-ons 
> later.  My reason for doing it that way was to be able to troubleshoot 
> problems if any emerge.  Having the options in would have complicated that 
> for me.  So I built the K2, tested and aligned, and then added each option, 
> testing as I went along.  
> 
> The rework isn't difficult.  And if you enjoy building a kit like this - 
> which you will - doing that is just more of the fun.  If you don't already 
> have one, buy a solder sucker.  The hand-held spring-loaded vacuum types are 
> inexpensive and help greatly to clean out through-holes when something is 
> removed.  Hakko sells one for about 18 USD.
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
> 
> --
> 
>Message: 7
>Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2019 18:32:07 +
>From: Bruce McCartney 
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build
>Message-ID: 
>Content-Type: text/plain;charset=utf-8
> 
>I have taken advantage of Elecraft?s National Hobby Month offer and now 
> have a K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to 
> build.
> 
>My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in 
> the options as completed? 
> 
>From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed 
> K2 before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo work.
> 
>Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution 
> to my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.
> 
>So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear from 
> other K2 builders.
> 
>I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland 
> - 46 hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!
> 
>Thank you.
> 
>Bruce 
> 
>GM4BDJ
> 
>--
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build

[Dauer, Edward]

I wonder if 11 years is a record?


Ted, KN1CBR



On 1/21/19, 9:03 AM, "hawley, charles j jr"  wrote:

I did one K2... started in ‘99 and finished in 2010.  There was an addition 
to the house and a move of the shack in between. I had to write my own assembly 
manual to include all the mods, changes, and accessories. Worked when I turned 
it on. No reworks. I like the sound better than the K3.

Chuck 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jan 21, 2019, at 8:55 AM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
>   Hello Bruce --
> 
> I have built three K2s, with almost every accessory and option there is 
other than the transverters.  I agree with all who have advised that the K2 be 
finished first and, except for the indicated KSB2 bits, then do the add-ons 
later.  My reason for doing it that way was to be able to troubleshoot problems 
if any emerge.  Having the options in would have complicated that for me.  So I 
built the K2, tested and aligned, and then added each option, testing as I went 
along.  
> 
> The rework isn't difficult.  And if you enjoy building a kit like this - 
which you will - doing that is just more of the fun.  If you don't already have 
one, buy a solder sucker.  The hand-held spring-loaded vacuum types are 
inexpensive and help greatly to clean out through-holes when something is 
removed.  Hakko sells one for about 18 USD.
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
> 
> --
> 
>Message: 7
>Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2019 18:32:07 +
>From: Bruce McCartney 
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build
>Message-ID: 
>Content-Type: text/plain;charset=utf-8
> 
>I have taken advantage of Elecraft?s National Hobby Month offer and 
now have a K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU 
to build.
> 
>My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add 
in the options as completed? 
> 
>From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the 
completed K2 before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo 
work.
> 
>Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a 
solution to my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.
> 
>So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear 
from other K2 builders.
> 
>I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to 
Scotland - 46 hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!
> 
>Thank you.
> 
>Bruce 
> 
>GM4BDJ
> 
>--
> 
> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build

[gt-i]

Bruce,
I built mine in 2001, and as far as I remember I had the same situation 
with the options. Since you have the options, sneak-preview into them 
and read what and how the parts have to be removed. Then you get an idea 
how to install them in a way you can removed them without putting harm 
to the main pcb. One obvious measure is to not push down the resistors 
or jumpers to the pcb, rather leave some space.

Happy building!
Gernot DF5RF K2 #2328 (+KAT,KBAT, KSB,KNB,KDSP,KXV60,K160RX,my own 
buffered IF-out with a Softrock RX Lite attached, my own Keyout)


Am 20.01.2019 um 19:32 schrieb Bruce McCartney via Elecraft:

I have taken advantage of Elecraft’s National Hobby Month offer and now have a 
K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU to build.

My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add in the 
options as completed?

 From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the completed K2 
before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo work.

Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a solution to 
my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.

So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear from other 
K2 builders.

I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to Scotland - 46 
hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!

Thank you.

Bruce

GM4BDJ
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build

[Bill Johnson]

I think so.  Wayne thought I may have a record for the shortest build @ 26 
hours.  But I think Don would easily beat that with all his experience and 
skills.  We have both concurred, however, that with the time that has passed 
neither of us have the speed of the 1990's.  Such is aging.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

https://wrj-tech.com/

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Dauer, Edward
Sent: Monday, January 21, 2019 12:37 PM
To: hawley, charles j jr 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build

I wonder if 11 years is a record?


Ted, KN1CBR



On 1/21/19, 9:03 AM, "hawley, charles j jr"  wrote:

I did one K2... started in ‘99 and finished in 2010.  There was an addition 
to the house and a move of the shack in between. I had to write my own assembly 
manual to include all the mods, changes, and accessories. Worked when I turned 
it on. No reworks. I like the sound better than the K3.

Chuck 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jan 21, 2019, at 8:55 AM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> 
>   Hello Bruce --
> 
> I have built three K2s, with almost every accessory and option there is 
other than the transverters.  I agree with all who have advised that the K2 be 
finished first and, except for the indicated KSB2 bits, then do the add-ons 
later.  My reason for doing it that way was to be able to troubleshoot problems 
if any emerge.  Having the options in would have complicated that for me.  So I 
built the K2, tested and aligned, and then added each option, testing as I went 
along.  
> 
> The rework isn't difficult.  And if you enjoy building a kit like this - 
which you will - doing that is just more of the fun.  If you don't already have 
one, buy a solder sucker.  The hand-held spring-loaded vacuum types are 
inexpensive and help greatly to clean out through-holes when something is 
removed.  Hakko sells one for about 18 USD.
> 
> Ted, KN1CBR
> 
> 
> --
> 
>Message: 7
>Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2019 18:32:07 +
>From: Bruce McCartney 
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 build
>Message-ID: 
>Content-Type: text/plain;charset=utf-8
> 
>I have taken advantage of Elecraft?s National Hobby Month offer and 
now have a K2 plus KSB2 SSB Option, KNB2 Noise Blanker, KAT2 20W Internal ATU 
to build.
> 
>My query is: do I build first the K2 transceiver as CW only, then add 
in the options as completed? 
> 
>From reading the manuals, components have to be removed from the 
completed K2 before the addition of some options.  It seems a shame to undo 
work.
> 
>Old blogs mention a Rework Eliminator kit which would have been a 
solution to my dilemma, but these are long since discontinued.
> 
>So, do I build first and add options later?  I'd be pleased to hear 
from other K2 builders.
> 
>I must add a huge kudos to both Elecraft and UPS - California to 
Scotland - 46 hours from ordering to delivery!  What service!
> 
>Thank you.
> 
>Bruce 
> 
>GM4BDJ
> 
>--
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

My real advantage is that I no longer have to read in detail to follow 
the assembly steps, but if you are doing it for the first time, do read 
carefully and completely as you are working.  My first one (Field Test) 
took me 34 hours.  There is no shame in taking 60 hours or more to build 
a K2 - proceed at your own comfortable pace, it is not a race, and going 
faster often leads to extended troubleshooting or an expensive repair 
because of build errors.


I can no longer work as fast because of hand tremors.  It has gotten bad 
enough that I have decided not to take on any new build or repair jobs. 
I will be continuing to provide support on this reflector.


Yes, it is a part of getting older!

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/21/2019 6:24 PM, Bill Johnson wrote:

I think so.  Wayne thought I may have a record for the shortest build @ 26 
hours.  But I think Don would easily beat that with all his experience and 
skills.  We have both concurred, however, that with the time that has passed 
neither of us have the speed of the 1990's.  Such is aging.


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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build

[Jay Rutherford]

Oh, No! Say it isn't so, Don!

Sorry to hear this news. It's been about a generation of your supporting hams 
with their legacy Elecraft radi!os through builds, upgrades, and repairs. I'm 
glad I got my K2 A-to-B upgrade from you before this decision.

I wish you many more years of helpful activity on the reflector.

73 Jay K3BH

On Mon, Jan 21, 2019, at 18:36, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> I can no longer work as fast because of hand tremors. It has gotten bad 
> enough that I have decided not to take on any new build or repair jobs. 
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Conceived

[Joe-aa4nn]

Hi Oscar, etal,

Welcome to the fold.  Excitement is great, but take your time with the 
build... enjoy the moments.


You don't need to be frustrated with the new fangled dual lever paddles when 
there are
a number of single lever paddles out there.  Two very fine paddles to look 
at are the
Begali single lever (simplex mono) : 
http://www.i2rtf.com/html/keys_paddles.html  $165.00
and the Shurr Profi single lever paddle. 
http://www.mtech.whsites.net/schurr/  $300.00

An old bug hand can work these paddles in his sleep.

While a Kent single lever paddle is okay at $140, you will not be 
disappointed with the
Begali line of keys.  I am not affiliated with any of these, I just own them 
and know which

is best.  hi.

73 & best of luck.
de Joe, aa4nn
-
I am getting my skills  back very slowly, and still getting the hang of 
these "new-fangled"  iambic keyers after having bug-use burned into my 
muscle memory from  way back.




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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Owner

[David Walker]

Hi Greg, I wonder if Elecraft will get a sudden rush of Oz orders
over the next few months.  I've been promoting and proving the
performance of the K2 here in VK with a few hams  on the air.
I'm getting terrific SSB audio reports these days... it took a while but
I finally got my K2 singing.  It seems the advent of the FT-9000 and 7800
have inspired enthusiasm for VK hams to consider a K2, whereas before
they just thought it was a kit.

Dave
K2-SN:3222


On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 18:37:10 -0500, Gregg Lengling  
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


SNIP

Now I've figured out the way to sell Elecraft products is the same way I
sold Kenwood 2-way for years.  Give them the radio for a couple weeks and
then just try and take it back.

Welcome to the fold Bill.


Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI, Retired
Administrator http://www.milwaukeehdtv.org
K2/100 S#3075 KX1 S# 57
Member:  ARRL, RSGB, RCA, WERA and ORC




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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 / W1 software

[Mike Markowski]

Not even 24 hours and the first software update.  I heard from several
people that the pop up menu where you choose the serial port was not
working in Microsoft Windows.  Thanks especially to Rolf sm0yqc for his
help in testing the update.

If you're a Windows user and downloaded the code more than an hour
before the date on this email, please download the updated software.

Thanks and keep the feedback coming!  I greatly appreciate it.

73,
Mike ab3ap

Mike Markowski wrote:
> ...I've spent the last few weeks after work - at the expense of getting on 
> the air
> much :-(  - writing some code to control the K2 and the W1 watt meter.  
> ...Pictures and
> descriptions are at
> 
>http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/
>...
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RE: [Elecraft] NEW K2 JUST ARRIVED

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

The K2 goes together just like any kit - one part at a time. Follow the
instructions in the manual (in order - no skipping) and be certain each
component value is correct and inserted into the proper holes, and do a good
job of soldering - that is all it takes.  Take your time and do not work if
you are not able to concentrate.

Enjoy the process, you will be rewarded when you finish.

73,
Don W3FPR

-Original Message-

Well my palms are sweaty and my heart is pounding as I pour through my new
kit. I hope I can get through this build okay. I forgot how to take
Resistance reading, I'm off to a good start.

BILL COCHRAN

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RE: [Elecraft] NEW K2 JUST ARRIVED

[Darwin, Keith]

Yes, the K2 goes together just like any other kit ... But the result is
not like just any other kit!

:-)
- Keith KD1E -


-Original Message-
Don Wilhelm

The K2 goes together just like any kit - one part at a time. 
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Re: [Elecraft] NEW K2 JUST ARRIVED

[ron]

It's easy Bill, approach it like your real estate job:
you begin by appraising the net worth of parts against the list;
then you heat up the pot for making it all come together;
then you finalize the deal with all the parts of the puzzle to agree 
on everything and everything in it's place.

When that happens, you have a working radio!
(you don't need to "pass papers" on this one) smile

ron, wb1hga

BILL COCHRAN wrote:
Well my palms are sweaty and my heart is pounding as I pour 


through my new kit. I hope I can get through this build okay.

I forgot how to take Resistance reading, I'm off to a good start.

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RE: [Elecraft] NEW K2 JUST ARRIVED

[Darwin, Keith]

True confession - I didn't do the parts inventory.  I didn't have the
space or the ESD containers to sort them all out into little bins based
on species and gender.  I basically just launched into building.
Shameful, isn't it.  When it was time to put all the caps in the RF
board, I was forced to sort them into piles on my desk but that was
because I needed help with identifying each of them.  That was very
helpful and I did find a couple missing.
 
- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -



From: BILL COCHRAN [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2006 8:43 PM
To: Darwin, Keith
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] NEW K2 JUST ARRIVED


I just spent over three hours checking the parts off. There must be over
one million parts in this kit, give or take a few of course.


BILL COCHRAN
BILL COCHRAN REAL ESTATE APPRAISALS, LLC
1430 N 12TH STREET
CAMBRIDGE, OHIO
43725
 
PHONE:740-439-7058
FAX: 740-236-1560
 
AMATEUR CALLSIGN: N8PGX
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Re: [Elecraft] New k2 ghostlight mod!

[Vic Rosenthal K2VCO]

Cute. Reminds of some of the custom cars we see around here. Kustom K2 
-- could be a trend.


On 5/26/2014 6:48 PM, John Cooper wrote:

My k2 already had the five keycap leds for xit rit split, zerobeat, transmit, 
audio filter and Recieve antenna.  Now I've gone and added some leds to the 
inside of the front panel. Alpena lights I got from Autozone.  It lets you see 
where the buttons are in the dark.  Its a totally useless mod but the effect is 
neat.  I sourced power from underneath the rf board where you plug in the 
battery or amp depending on what you have.  They come on when you turn on power 
supply before you turn on radio.  The instructions say they draw .08 amps, I 
have not confirmed this. I have 2 youtube videos one is a picture slideshow and 
the other is a short video.  My youtube name is A390652.  The videos are titled 
k2backlit in action and k2 backlight details.

WT5Y


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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Re: [Elecraft] New k2 ghostlight mod!

[KU4AF]

Hmm, George Barris as an Elecraft consultant? I'm thinking Kandy-Kolored
Tangerine-Flake Streamline Mojo...

John, KU4AF
Pittsboro, NC


Cute. Reminds of some of the custom cars we see around here. Kustom K2 
-- could be a trend.




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Re: [Elecraft] New k2 ghostlight mod!

[Sverre Holm (LA3ZA)]

Cool looks, I like that!



-
Sverre, LA3ZA

K2 #2198, K3 #3391,
LA3ZA Blog: http://la3za.blogspot.com,
LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications: 
http://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html
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Re: [Elecraft] New k2 ghostlight mod!

[Gerald Manthey]

Easy to find your way around in the dark. Thanks for sharing that.
73's Gerald - KC6CNN
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Re: [Elecraft] New k2 ghostlight mod!

[Sverre Holm (LA3ZA)]

Here are the YouTube links to the ghostlight mod of John, WT5Y:

-  K2 Backlight in Action   
-  K2 Backlight Details   



-
Sverre, LA3ZA

K2 #2198, K3 #3391,
LA3ZA Blog: http://la3za.blogspot.com,
LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications: 
http://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 problem ?ATU

[Byron N6NUL]

I would suspect water in the feed line or a bad connector first. You'll know 
more  when you can inspect the antenna.

You could try overriding the tuning power (in the manual) and see if it can 
even tune at full power instead of the normal 20 watts. I suspect it would have 
an issue that the lower power doesn't reveal.

73, Byron N6NUL 
K2 7077
K1 2799

> On Dec 3, 2014, at 19:08, John Wiener  wrote:
> 
> Hi  
> This just started tonight.The ATU is acting squirreled
> I think it is the KAT100  
> no change in setup…K2/100 to KAT100 to G5RV
> FLdigi and Mac OS  (not yet upgraded to Yosemite)
> Signalink USB  
> 
> no changes in connections
> 
> so…I use the ATU on 80M   it goes to 1:1 after several relay clicks  as usual
> Then I xmit….Hi Current…red 5:1 SWR and variable
> I turn off xmit on fldigi…now rcvr is low output…I hit the TUNE button and it 
> re tunes the atu back to 1:1 and normal rcvr volume
> 
> I’ll check on my antenna tomorrow when it is light  but 
> 
> Does this sound like the ATU is going bad?
> 
> serial number is 5312
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Construction Help

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

The VFO is not oscillating.  Handle the lack of oscillation separately 
from any consideration for the PLL side of things - in other words, 
first make it oscillate and then if it is not on the right frequency, 
that is a different problem to be solved.


Start with T5.  Look at the leads to see if they were adequately 
stripped and tinned.  You should see a bit of tinned lead on the 
component side and there should be no ring around the leads on the 
solder side.  If either of those conditions exist, remove T5 and 
rewind/strip/tin.
The other thing to check on T5 is the direction (sense) of both windings 
- they must both be the same sense if it is to work.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/13/2014 2:02 PM, Bill Robbins wrote:

I bought a partially assembled K2 and am continuing the construction.

I am at p.63, Alignment and Test, Part II.  All is well until I get to 
VCO Test.  I get no frequency reading.  The probe is fine and I get 
4VDC at the test point, TP1.


All of the obvious has been done.Solder bridges, missing parts, 
etc.  But, obviously, I am missing something.


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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build - encoder problem

[dw]

If you haven't already found the problem.
Another thing you can check is U2.
With the rig off, 3,4,5,6 & 11,12,13,14 should all read 100K ohms to VCC
pin(18)

With the rig on, these should all normally be at VCC voltage.
-- 
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 parameter retrieval software

[Lyle Johnson]

Hello Mike!


...   I'd be interested if anyone finds
it useful - or finds it too difficult to use.


Suggestion: can the program interrogate the DSP and determine and 
download those settings, too?  Each mode (CW, SSB, Data) supports four 
(4) user-defined filters.  There are also mode-based gain settings, and 
denoiser and autonotch parameters.


Thank you for making your work available to the Elecraft community!

73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 parameter retrieval software

[Mike Markowski]

Hi Lyle,

Lyle Johnson wrote:
> Hello Mike!
> 
>> ...   I'd be interested if anyone finds
>> it useful - or finds it too difficult to use.
> 
> Suggestion: can the program interrogate the DSP and determine and
> download those settings, too?  Each mode (CW, SSB, Data) supports four
> (4) user-defined filters.  There are also mode-based gain settings, and
> denoiser and autonotch parameters.

Thanks for the suggestion.  I just added it to the code and will have to
bill you double for the effort.  :-)  The code cycles through the
filters beginning with whichever is currently chosen, so it might or
might not begin with 1.  But all the info is there.

> Thank you for making your work available to the Elecraft community!

My pleasure!  73,

Mike ab3ap
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Kit arrived! Hurray

[David Pratt]

In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Paul Webb 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes

Just wanted to tell you that my new K2 Kit arrived today, I had to pay VAT @
£88.56 for her but I expected that anyway.



All the best and sorry in advance for all the questions I will be inflicting
on you all.


Don't worry about that, Paul, no need to apologise; that's what this 
list is here for.  Good luck with your project.

73 de David G4DMP, Leeds


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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Kit arrived! Hurray

[Toby Deinhardt]

Serial number 5324 will be started later today so everyone can 
expect


Wow, 5324 K2s and counting ...

Good luck with #5324. We're looking forward to hearing you on the air.

toby
--
DD5FZ (ex dj7mgq, dg5mgq, dd5fz)
K2 #885, K2/100 #3248
DOK C12, BCC, DL-QRP-AG

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RE: [Elecraft] New K2 Kit arrived! Hurray

[David]

Hey just remember to take lots of pictures as you build the rig
otherwise you will have to buy another just to be able to relive the
thrill of building your k2




> Serial number 5324 will be started later today so everyone can 
> expect


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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 - two bad encoders

[Don Wilhelm]

Lou,

The encoder itself is the same one used in the K3/K3S, so I think if 
there was a bad batch of encoders in the Elecraft stock, it would have 
been noticed and quickly corrected.


However, the board to convert the pulse count of that encoder to that 
needed by the K2 is suspect in my mind.  It is 'firmware' and I suspect 
that there may have been some unprogrammed ICs made their way into the 
K2 encoder assembly packages.  Of course, that remains to be proven, it 
is just a guess on my part.


Continue to work with support, it should be resolved soon.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/5/2018 8:07 AM, Lou Voerman W2ROW wrote:

I am building a newly acquired K2. Everything was fine through stage 1
assembly and checkout. Upon reassembling after stage two the main tuning
encoder no longer works (turning the knob does absolutely nothing). I
contacted Elecraft support and Gary sent me a new encoder assembly. I
received it yesterday, assembled it and installed it, it also does not work.
At every stage I flush cut the leads on both the encoder PCB and the control
board and insulated with thick paper.

To add to the plot, I have an older K2 which I disassembled and removed the
encoder assembly from. I installed that encoder assembly in the new K2 and
it works FB. I also installed one of the new encoder assemblies in the old
K2 and it does not work (as expected).


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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build w/ Options

[Don Wilhelm]

James,

The amount of "rework" is minimal.  There are ways to avoid doing as 
much component removal and changes, but I would not recommend that you 
do it on your initial kit build.


If you were to build a 2nd K2 (after installing the various options 
once), then I can see you reviewing the installation steps for the 
options and doing those things as you build the K2, but for the first 
time, build the base K2, do the alignment and test, and then add the 
options.


To help set your mind at ease, the components that you will need to 
remove for each of the options is as follows:

KPA100 -- none
K160RX -- none
KXV60  -- remove two capacitors
KAF2  -- remove two wires on the back of the control board
KNB2  -- change 3 resistors
KSB2  -- remove one capacitor

So IMHO, the "rework" is minimal.  Most of the work for installation of 
the options is adds to the RF Board.  For older K2s (below SN 3000), 
there is a bit more rework, but not for yours.


The hardest part of removing components from the boards is removing the 
solder from the holes.  You can even waste the component to be removed 
and pull the leads out one at a time.  Clean up the solder pads with 
solder wick, and if solder remains in the holes, heat the pad and push 
the solder out with a wooden toothpick so you can insert the new 
component or header.


73,
Don W3FPR




On 8/15/2019 1:00 PM, W0CD wrote:

Good afternoon.

I just received a new K2 kit from Elecraft (#7899). It includes all
available options for the K2/100 (amp, audio filter, 60m, SSB, etc.).

I understand adding these components after the K2 is built will require a
bit of rework to be completed. Is this true if you are building the entire
kit, with accessories, from scratch? I noticed the rework boards are no
longer available and I want to be sure I eliminate as much rework as
possible (if possible).


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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build w/ Options

[Jim Fuller]

On 8/15/2019 12:00 PM, W0CD wrote:

Good afternoon.

I just received a new K2 kit from Elecraft (#7899). It includes all
available options for the K2/100 (amp, audio filter, 60m, SSB, etc.).

I understand adding these components after the K2 is built will require a
bit of rework to be completed. Is this true if you are building the entire
kit, with accessories, from scratch? I noticed the rework boards are no
longer available and I want to be sure I eliminate as much rework as
possible (if possible).

In other words, are there any accessories / addons I should be installing at
the time of the K2 build -- or do I complete the base K2 first before moving
on.


When I built mine, I built the option kits first, which got me familiar 
the assembly manuals, then I built the main kit, including the various 
connectors for the options, some of which needed temporary jumpers, 
where I used pushon jumper thingies.  It also involved a lot of 
perusing, and cross-referencing, the manuals. Once the main radio was 
finished and tested, then I added (plugged in) the option boards, one at 
a time, testing everything as I went. It all worked spendidly.


The only parts that I needed to add to the main radio at the time I 
built it were the connectors for the options, which were included in the 
options kits,  and some temporary jumpers.


--
Jim Fuller
N5XH

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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build w/ Options

[Sverre Holm (LA3ZA)]

It is also very easy to make plug-in equivalents of the rework modules. In
fact that’s where they started. And as said here, they will just contain
jumpers or a couple of components. 

See
http://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2_28.html#Access



-
Sverre, LA3ZA

K2 #2198, K3 #3391,
LA3ZA Blog: http://la3za.blogspot.com,
LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications: 
http://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html
--
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 Build w/ Options

[W0CD]

All,

Thanks for the replies (and several direct emails I received). It sounds
like it's much easier now than it was when the K2 was first introduced.

Thanks again.



--
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 owner this week!

[Don Wilhelm]

Warren,

No checklist, but I would suggest opening the manual and work through 
the front panel controls and rear panel connections.  Set yourself up 
some simulated operating with CW, voice modes, and data mods when you 
get to those sections in the manual.
Then look over the Advanced Operating Feature, and finally review the 
menu items listed in the manual.
That should give you both a checkout of the K3 operation as well as 
familiarity with the K3 and its capabilities.
Download the latest K3 Utility and load the latest firmware, then save a 
configuration file as well.
After that, should you have questions about something, you will know 
about where to find it in the manual.


Good luck and enjoy that K3.

73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/27/2014 12:36 PM, Warren Allred wrote:

Hey Elecraft gang,

I bought a K2/10 this week that has just the DSP and NB option installed.
  Apparently she was built by Mr. David Runk, AA3EJ, and according to the
seller built to perfection.  :)

Serial number 7088.

Anyhow!  I have been scouring the web for information and have a ton of it!
  But I was wondering if anyhow had a checklist that I could go through when
she arrives to ensure all is well with the rig?




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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 owner this week!

[Don Wilhelm]

Warren and all,

I have been informed by a couple folks that I did not read the post as 
well as I should have, and you are dealing with a K2.


The answer is similar, go through the manual - if it is not provided, 
you can download it.


For the K2, you can skip the Assembly sections, but go through the three 
Alignment and Test sections because that is where you will gain 
familiarity with the K2.  Do the same for each installed option.  If you 
do not have the option manuals, download them from the Elecraft website.


There is no K2 Utility, and you cannot save a configuration file, but 
you might want to record the menu settings.  If so, download the K2 A to 
B Upgrade instructions - the first few pages contain nice charts for 
manually recording those settings.


With that serial number, your K2 is entirely up to date, so no updates 
are necessary.


73,
Don W3FPR


Warren,

No checklist, but I would suggest opening the manual and work through 
the front panel controls and rear panel connections.  Set yourself up 
some simulated operating with CW, voice modes, and data mods when you 
get to those sections in the manual.
Then look over the Advanced Operating Feature, and finally review the 
menu items listed in the manual.
That should give you both a checkout of the K3 operation as well as 
familiarity with the K3 and its capabilities.
Download the latest K3 Utility and load the latest firmware, then save a 
configuration file as well.
After that, should you have questions about something, you will know 
about where to find it in the manual.


Good luck and enjoy that K3.

73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/27/2014 12:36 PM, Warren Allred wrote:

Hey Elecraft gang,

I bought a K2/10 this week that has just the DSP and NB option installed.
  Apparently she was built by Mr. David Runk, AA3EJ, and according to the
seller built to perfection.  :)

Serial number 7088.

Anyhow!  I have been scouring the web for information and have a ton of it!
  But I was wondering if anyhow had a checklist that I could go through when
she arrives to ensure all is well with the rig?




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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 owner this week!

[Warren Allred]

Thank you Don - And thanks to everyone else who emailed me directly with
lots of great advice!

-- Warren






Warren and all,

I have been informed by a couple folks that I did not read the post as
well as I should have, and you are dealing with a K2.

The answer is similar, go through the manual - if it is not provided,
you can download it.

For the K2, you can skip the Assembly sections, but go through the three
Alignment and Test sections because that is where you will gain
familiarity with the K2.  Do the same for each installed option.  If you
do not have the option manuals, download them from the Elecraft website.

There is no K2 Utility, and you cannot save a configuration file, but
you might want to record the menu settings.  If so, download the K2 A to
B Upgrade instructions - the first few pages contain nice charts for
manually recording those settings.

With that serial number, your K2 is entirely up to date, so no updates
are necessary.

73,
Don W3FPR
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2: Order of Construction

[Don Wilhelm]

I would suggest you build the K2 first so you can test the options as 
you build them.
The K2 manual indicates when you can install the headers and changes to 
the K2 in the latter parts of the assembly process.


If you build the options first and "install them as you go" with the 
base K2 build, should a problem occur, you will not know whether it is a 
problem with the option or the base K2.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/14/2013 9:50 PM, w1kbx wrote:

I built a K2 around 13 years ago, which I sold, and now I'm building a second 
one. The first one, I put too many options in and the complexity overwhelmed me.

With this one I have kept it simple and only have the KAT2, K160RX and 
KBT2options.

I am thinking that I should construct the options first (KAT2, K160RX and KBT2) 
and then construct the K2 main kit and then install the options during the 
regular K2 Construction rather than retrofitting the options after K2 building.

Is this the simplest and recommended way to incorporate the options during 
build of a new K2.




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Re: [Elecraft] New K2: Order of Construction

[Jim Wiley]

Dan -

Just keep in mind that you will not be able to properly test the 
optional units until the base K2has been built and tested.  Other than 
that, it probably does not make much difference what order you choose 
for construction.  My personal K2, completed several years ago now, has 
all the options and upgrades except for the 60-meter unit and the 
external VHF / UHF transverters, and I did not feel it was 
"overwhelming" in any way.  I just took it slow, spending perhaps 40 
hours on the basic K2, and another 50 hours or so on all the options, 
including adding the KPA100 and KAT100 in a separate EC2 cabinet. My 
self-imposed "time limit" for a building session was set to 2 hours 
maximum, and no more than 2 sessions in any given day.  Made each 
session both enjoyable and something to look forward to.


- Jim, KL7CC


On 4/14/2013 5:50 PM, w1kbx wrote:

I built a K2 around 13 years ago, which I sold, and now I'm building a second 
one. The first one, I put too many options in and the complexity overwhelmed me.

With this one I have kept it simple and only have the KAT2, K160RX and 
KBT2options.

I am thinking that I should construct the options first (KAT2, K160RX and KBT2) 
and then construct the K2 main kit and then install the options during the 
regular K2 Construction rather than retrofitting the options after K2 building.

Is this the simplest and recommended way to incorporate the options during 
build of a new K2.

Thanks,
Dan W1KBX
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 build...Missing R116, also

[dking]

I sent Steve this answer off list...but it also answers Clark's  
missing R116 question...so I'm posting it to the full list.


dk

Steve...I ran into this same issue with mine a couple of weeks ago and  
when I checked with Scott
at Elecraft parts, he said the small green/brown/green was R116 which  
goes across toroid

L33 in the BFO section (pg58).

I counted all my RF chokes and compared them to the parts list and  
found the parts count

showed a regular sized brown/black/brown so I used that.

I think they need to learn the difference between a miniature and  
sub-miniature!


Also, I couldn't get up to 6V on page 61, the VCO alignment stage...I  
would max out at
3.8 volts...and I had the windings correct on T-5, the correct part at  
C72 and the
correct value at L30...and when I asked and even sent a photo of the  
toriod, Gary said I
should try to squeezing the windings closer together (rather than  
leaving them uniformly
spread out to ensure 85% coverage of the toriod as they stress over  
and over)...I moved
them (pinched) closer and it immediately solved the problemthat  
little tip would be

nice to have show up somewhere in the book, also!

David King
KE7EKA


Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:


Hello,

I was wondering if anyone else has built a K2 lately. I am in build phase
II and I am to install an RF Choke on the back of the board, it's item ID
is RFC15. The manual says to expect a sub miniature with
Brown-Black-Brown. However, my sub miniature RF Choke is
Green-Brown-Green. Is this a recent change that is not noted in the
construction manual?

Best Regards,
Steve
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RE: [Elecraft] New K2 Owner and a few questions

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Congratulations Paul:

My K2 is set for 3.8 amps. I don't recall how close that is to getting an
overcurrent. I have the KPA100 amp on mine so it may not need to run the
low-power section as hot as it might barefoot. I'd not be worried if 4.5
amps does the job for you.

NOTE: It is NOT recommended to run the K2 over 10 watts PEP sideband. It
won't hurt the K2, but distortion level rises above the 10 watt PEP level
the output stages are designed for. Of course, putting the "pedal to the
metal" isn't a problem on CW. 

What's the serial number of your K2? If it's < 3000, do you know of the
volume control mod was done to it? The earlier K2's (like my S/N 1289) had a
different volume control circuit that used the control as a shunt resistance
across a balanced audio line. That works well enough, but it was found that
many controls started to sound scratchy quite soon with only normal wear.
Elecraft redesigned that circuit to use the volume control in a more normal
circuit that avoids that problem. As a bonus, the modified circuit also
exhibits the logarithmic response other volume controls do. If it hasn't
been modified, or if you aren't sure, you can tell by looking at the p-c
board for some jumpers that were required. Details of the mod are documented
on the Elecraft site in an application note. See:
http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/K2_AF_pot/K2_AF_gain_app_note.htm

Check to see if that mod has been made before changing the pot. At S/N 3000
the PC boards were updated to incorporate that change, so you won't see the
mod if you have a newer K2.

That's one of the hidden features in the K2. You don't have to dump your
existing rig and build a new one to keep "current". An early K2 has the
ability to demonstrate every feature and meet ever spec that a
just-delivered K2 meets. As improvements and changes have been made,
Elecraft has documented each one and, if significant parts were required,
produced an upgrade kit for those owners who wanted to update their older
rigs. 

I wonder if your appreciation of the sound has to do with the somewhat
"softer" shoulders on the K2 filters, compared with many of those in other
rigs. I've never liked the sound of the extremely steep-sided filters. They
modulate noise and signals hanging across those stopband frequencies and
produce artifacts in the bandpass. They're nice if one feels it's  critical
to "cuddle up" to an S-9 signal a few Hz away without hearing it, but I find
that's important so seldom that I'd never give up the nice sound of what I
consider the "really good" K2 filters for that ability. I'll admit that I
"cut my teeth" on the bands with receivers that were 6 kHz wide and being a
good op meant that one could copy a CW QSO while hearing several other QSO's
in the same bandpass. SSB isn't so critical since it become unintelligible
noise as one moves far enough off-frequency. At least these we don't hear
the howling cacophony of wall-to-wall carrier hetrodynes that dominated the
phone bands half a century ago! 

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Paul Webb
Sent: Saturday, October 01, 2005 4:11 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] New K2 Owner and a few questions


Hi All

Just to say Hello, I asked a few days ago if anyone wanted to do a deal with
a ft857/icom 703 for a K2 well,

I had many offers to sell me a K2 so many thanks to all the people that made
the offer.

In the end I bought one from a member of the list and have today had chance
to play with it.

I have a FT1000MP Mk5 Field here in the shack and have been doing side by
side tests with the K2 

I must say I am very surprised by how well this little radio works, 

First SSB, it seems just about on par with the MP ,if anything many signals
sounded nicer to listen to on the K2!

Now CW

Well I was shocked! The MP is loaded with all the Yaesu filters, Has DSP
filtering too, I found a weak signal and switched between the two radios, 

every time the K2 was better, the MP sounded hollow on Cw, well that's the
best way I can describe it, but the K2 just sounded solid , 

I know which radio I will turning on first now!
NOW THE QUESTIONS

What current level is set on most K2 to avoid the Hi Cur warning, I get it
on a whisle, I have just for now set it to abou 4.5Amps and it seems ok with
that. ( 15 watts o/p )

I have a little noise on the vol pot when I turn it, a friend has the same
on his K2, is there a good way of cleaning the pot?

Well that's about it (for Now)

One very happy K2 Owner

73

Paul

M0BMN


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RE: [Elecraft] New K2 Owner and a few questions

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Paul,

Congratulations on your K2 purchase.

The AF Gain pot noise first (it is the easiest).  If your serial number is
less than 3000, you should see if the alternative AF Gain wiring mod has
been installed - if not, I suggest installing it first.  In the process, you
may want to replace the AF Gain pot since you would have the front panel
removed.  Replacement pots are available from Elecraft at a modest price.
If your SN is 3000 or greater (or if the AF Gain wiring change has been
installed in SN <3000), the best solution is to simply replace the pot.  I
have not had much success with any of the pot cleaners that I have used in
the past (that is pre-Elecraft times, so they may have changed the
formulations, but I regress...)

Now for your problems - on the Hi-Cur message, there is likely a problem
somewhere.  If everything is operating correctly and you voltage supply to
the K2 is at 13.8 volts, you should be able to run the CAL CUR at 3.5 Amps
or less and have no HiCur message.  Preliminary steps to take follow:

First thing, check your power supply and its connections to be certain you
are maintaining at least 12.5 volts or more at full power output - tap
DISPLAY and then TUNE to see what voltage is indicated.  If your supply
voltage sags significantly, fix that first and your problem may go away.
Reason: the K2 continues to draw current to satisfy the power output level
you have requested, and if the voltage drops, the current must increase to
provide that current.  The K2 will operate with lower voltage, but it will
draw more current (this is different than many other rigs that simply will
not produce enough power at lower voltages).

If you have a K2/100, first remove the KPA100 and set Cal Cur to 3 Amps,
then check to see if you have the Hi-Cur indication while operating into a
dummy load and see if the base K2 is capable of producing 13 to 15 watts
output on all bands except 10 meters (and possibly 12 meters) where the
power out should be at least 10 watts.

If you can achieve that power output level with the base K2, all is well so
far and the problem is in the KPA100.  If you cannot get that power output
from the base K2, the first place to check is the Low Pass Filter.  Check
each toroid for the proper number of turns - count the turns that pass
throught the center of the toroid (it is not unusual for a builder to put an
extra turn on the core), then check the value of each capacitor in the LPF
(use the schematic to identify the proper capacitor and its value).  If all
is OK there, write another note to the reflector for additional help.

If the base K2 checks out OK, re-connect the KPA100 cables (with the KPA100
laying upside down on a box to the right of the K2), remove the shield (do
not remove the black screws that hold the shield clips in place), and check
the LPF of the KPA100 in the same manner as the checks for the base K2
(toroid turns and capacitor values).  If all is well with the Low Pass
Filter, next thing to check is the KPA100 bias adjustment - follow the
instructions in the KPA100 manual.  And then, check the balance and
calibration of the KPA100 wattmeter (again, as instructed in the manual).

If all the above is correct, you should be able to have an output from the
KPA100 with a CAL CUR setting of 3.5 Amps and have no Hi Cur messages.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> In the end I bought one from a member of the list and have today
> had chance
> to play with it.
>
> (snip)
> NOW THE QUESTIONS
>
> What current level is set on most K2 to avoid the Hi Cur warning, I get it
> on a whisle, I have just for now set it to abou 4.5Amps and it
> seems ok with
> that. ( 15 watts o/p )
>
> I have a little noise on the vol pot when I turn it, a friend has the same
> on his K2, is there a good way of cleaning the pot?
>
> Well that’s about it (for Now)
>
> One very happy K2 Owner
>
> 73
>
> Paul
>
> M0BMN
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] New K2 es Rework EliminatorsT Bypass Header Kit

[Matthew D. Pitts]

Charles,

K2 #5956 is sitting on my bench awaiting inventory and a few small tools 
that I don't currently possess. I have to say that I am impressed with 
the quality of the Elecraft Kit; not only are the parts bagged by 
subassembly, but the boards that I have seen look quite nice. It's 
almost a shame to have to put them in a case. I am going to enjoy 
building the radio; I need something to do that doesn't involve a 
computer (though I do plan to use a laptop with the K2 :) ).




Charles Pitts wrote:

Hi Gang,

 


I'm a newbie here.

 


Today, 9 Jan 07, the mailman delivered a little white box containing my K2
s/n 5953.

 


Yesterday I receive the Rework EliminatorsT Bypass Header kit from Gary
Hvizdak, KI4GGX and Ken Kaplan, WB2ART.  The kit arrived quickly, was nicely
packaged, there were no missing parts, and the components are top notch.   I
was especially impressed with the quality and design of the heavy duty epoxy
circuit board (rev. G) with plated thru holes.  The Quick Start Instruction
sheet was easy to follow and is well illustrated.  Building was a snap.  I'm
glad I purchased this item.  It is an excellent, well engineered product.
Thank you Gary & Ken.

 


I'm off to my cave to inventory the little white box's contents.

 


73 de Charles, N3EJS

 


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RE:[Elecraft] New K2 owner- question on first start up

[Dick Housden, W0NTA]

Hi Jerry,

The T that looks like an E with the top bar missing is actually a lower case 
t. It is OK. As for always coming up with PRE, try turning pre off and then 
either switching bands and returning to your initial band or change modes 
and return to your original mode. It will "stick" in the off position then. 
Nor sure why, though.


72, Dick, W0NTA
Greeley, CO


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RE:[Elecraft] New K2 owner- question on first start up

[Gary Hvizdak]

The reason for this observed behavior is described in section 8
("Operation") in the K2 manual.

See page 91 under "Frequency and Band Selection" ...

Whenever you change bands or recall a frequency memory, a number of
parameters are saved in nonvolatile memory (EEPROM).  This update also
occurs periodically if you've moved the VFO (see Backup Timer).  The
parameters that are saved on a per-band basis include:
. A and B VFO frequencies and VFO tuning rate
. Current VFO (A or B)
. Operating mode (CW, USB, LSB) and CW Normal/reverse
. AGC slow/fast
. Preamp and attenuator on/off
. Noise blanker on/off (requires noise blanker option)
. ANT1/2 selection (ATU option)
. Receive antenna on/off (160 m/RX ant. option)

Also, see page 94 under "Backup Timer" ...

While you're moving the VFO, a 30-second data backup timer is being
continuously re-started.  Once you have completely stopped tuning the VFO
for at least 30 seconds, the K2 will then save your current operating
frequency in EEPROM. As long as you stay on a particular frequency, no
further updates will be done.

73,
Gary KI4GGX  K2 S/N 4067

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