Re: [h-cost] Ladies Clothing - gentry, c. 1503
You're mixing up the two sisters. Margaret was married to the king of Scotland. Mary(Rose) was married to the King of France but was widowed shortly after the marriage and married her real love, Charles Brandon, before Henry could arrange another political marriage for her. She returned to England with her new husband. Quite the soap opera, those Tudors! Karen Seamstrix -- Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At 18:27 10/12/2008, you wrote: What area? I've got tons from the continent, but very little (other than the occasional royals) for England. Scotland - just to be difficult, but France or England would do. Henry Vlll's sister returning to Scotland from ?France I understand. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Reduce your business expense. Click here to find products for your small business. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/PnY6rw2USkfG1ylQjJOBY1QMHBgRSTXhzm0eXaNxEnt7VsHSLA5c0/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Toyota sergers
I have a Toyota I bought in the late '80's, early '90's. It's very basic and has been working fine for me. It is no more tempermental than the sergers I have used in costume shops. I dont know about the current amchines though. Susan If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it? A. Einstein Hi, This might be OT, but I really don't know where else to ask and I haven't found any reviews - my friend is a beginning to intermediate sewer, but she doesn't have any sewing machine except for a badly-working, loud Singer. She wants to take a step forward and buy a new machine. She would also dream of a serger, but buying two machines would take her out of her budget. I've just seen someone selling a brand new Toyota serger for $125!! http://www.strickmaschine.de/machines/over/700-620.htm I know Toyotas are not the top brand, but what do you think - would it be worth the price? Do you have any experience with this brand? Would you buy this serger and replace it perhaps later for a better machine, when your sewing skills would improve? Thanks for advice, Zuzana Click now for a huge selection of name brand automotive tools! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/PnY6rbvsWPIptQGAOVuJpnholtcCddXxUhCHsellMr9mwoM7Wjmz2/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] T-Tunics -help fitting
Tunics are every where -did you have a certain time or place in mind? It's easier to get a good result if you are aiming at a specific idea ( Russian , Norman, etc). I wish I could find Tim Nalley's (AKA Mordak) pattern. He has a similar body shape and has solved the issue beautifully. As I recall, one of his tunic patterns has the body piece cut in 3 long rectangles, instead of one. The seam runs vertically (about over the nipples) and gores are placed in these seams. It's very graceful and allows for extra belly space. If you are interested, I'll ask Tim for more costuming information, he's a very good costumer and loves to share. Here are some good patterns, many are based on extant garments St Louis shirt http://heatherrosejones.com/stlouisshirt/index.html The A tunic http://housebarra.com/EP/ep06/14Atunic.html Extant clothing with basic patter shapes http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/bockhome.html Russian tunic with trapezoidal gores http://costume.mashaholl.com/#shirt Russian coat http://genvieve.net/sca/ncoat.html Susan If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it? A. Einstein 1) Hubby has grown quite a beer belly, which is a bit of a fitting challenge. I have some methods, and i base the basic construction on http://www.virtue.to/articles/tunic_worksheet.html, but i am always having trouble dealing with how to adjust the fit so that the shoulders are not too big, yet the belly drapes ok, and the gores do have to start directly under the arms. if anyone has pointers on how to gracefully manage t-tunics so that they look nice and fit all parts of the body, i would be most grateful. I end up not making the main tunic a rectangle, but a more of a trapazoid, and if i need to i can making a drawing and post it, but I assume that ya'all have better methods then i do, so what would be the point, but if you want me to, I can post. Thanks, Jordana Click here for great computer networking solutions! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/Ioyw6iighEHmyfrHhagggbIB1lGIArcmw3DZhOg406vwjNUXBQt6gw/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A Fete at Bermondsey-for all the Elizabethan costumers
OMG! Thank-you! Thank-you! Thank-you! Karen Seamstrix -- Maggie [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I thought you'd all like to see what has to be the best version of this painting EVER available made available, now at Wikimedia Commons. commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Im...1569.pnghttp://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c_1569.png commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Im...1569.jpghttp://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Joris_Hoefnagel_Fete_at_Bermondsey_c_1569.jpg Back-story: I purchased a 10x14 giclee print (size within the white border) from AllPosters.com and had it copied at a very good pre-press service here in Hollywood. My book designer, Dick Margulis, worked some magic on it for the Compendium cover. Then my webmistress, Kate, compressed it further and made it available to the world. I recommend using the png version for detailed examination.The jpg version will fit nicely on a desktop. Enjoy! MaggiRos ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Save for the future with great IRA Funds. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nIaFJHVQdEzSZZ5Iad9A3f36uzLXrrqkFAX9AI8o5L3dk2E/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1830s-40s Servants
This period is before Florence Nightingale gave nursing it's prestige. Before her work in the Crimean War, nursing was not a particularly skilled or important job- most women did it more or less by default. I doubt there would have been an identifiable uniform for a nurse in the 1840's. Karen Seamstrix -- otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I would think that a nurse would probably have worn something to identify her profession from a maid or servant. What about the BBC series upstairs/downstairs (this might be to late) or did they have the sterio type uniforms? There should be several BBC series that show maids in uniforms. -Original Message- It's not quite 1840s but here's a fashion plate from 1852 showing a nurse http://www.marquise.de/en/1800/pics/1852_4.shtml (presumably a nurse would wear similar clothes to a maid) I think a dark coloured wool in a somewhat conservative cut (nobody likes their servants dressing above their station) would be the most sensible style for somebody who is doing potentially messy work (unless it was so messy you would want a cotton wash dress) a cap was a badge of servitude for many years after other women had abandoned them (even into the early 20th century you see maids and waitresses in restaurants wearing some sort of remnant of a cap on their heads). Clean, starched, white aprons were also important for female servants when they were 'on display' in a sense (e.g. when answering the door or serving visitors) as another badge of servitude it showed their status and that they hadn't been doing any messy work (or at least not recently). I know this is later than your period, but Isabella Beeton's book of household management outlines the duties of various servants and sometimes includes references to clothing http://etext.library.adelaide.edu.au/b/beeton/isabella/household/chapter41.h tml You may also find images of servants in the background in some royal portraits http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/category.asp?category=AAPICTURES; row=0 HTH Elizabeth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Save on Moving Supplies. Click Here! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oij8fb5xPmtHLFvOoOXp1Ymw6R8RtGLDQHWNOYOJ9KTwrdu/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1600s portraits
She has other eras as well. Excellent resource, thanks for sharing! Karen Seamstrix -- otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: http://entertainment.webshots.com/album/556967837tWiCMx?start=0 http://tinyurl.com/5skcwn New to me site. De ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Click for online loan, fast amp; no lender fee, approval today http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3m3WLXYZkU1PzFGXUFNVAfPsNFO294zoAONgUcBX1sHHfajW/?count=1234567890 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Religious symbols in jewellery, was Renaissance dress
I don't know if the fashion lasted as late as 1640. I know that it was current from approximately 1530 (there's a painting of Jane Seymour where she is wearing a jeweled IHS brooch) thru the late Elizabethan/Jacobean. I'd take a look at period portraiture and check thru some inventories to see if they were stll doing it pre-Civil War. Karen Seamstrix -- Kate M Bunting [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: -- Karen wrote: I think that you have a good idea about the skirt but you may be a bit off base on the necklace. If you look closely at the vertical elements you can see they form the initials I and H. In period it was common/fashionable to wear the symbol of 'IHS' which are the Latin initials of Jesus. It was particularly used in the Protestant countries (I'm most familiar with England) because wearing a crucifix was out of favor as being too Papist. Personally, I think this is the most likely explanation although the wearing of initials/symbols of significant people is not out of the question. That's interesting. My living history persona is the widow of a Gentleman of the Chapel Royal in the 1640s. I've wondered about wearing a cross, but decided against it as I felt that it would have been considered too Papist at the time. Kate Bunting Cataloguing Data Quality Librarian University of Derby ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Click to learn about options trading and get the latest information. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3m5biSnFOGJB5PIo4qNcO0P0DotYHDPQY3vuXiwogLeUgdFm/?count=1234567890 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Religious symbols in jewellery, was Renaissance dress
Well, I did say Papist' not 'Catholic'- I do realize that there's a difference. Henry continued to consider himself a good Catholic while denouncing the 'Bishop of Rome'. I also said 'crucifix' not 'cross'- once again there's a distinction. A cross is bare while a crucifix has the dead guy on it. Karen Seamstrix -- monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Henry VIII considered himself a good Catholic til the day he died, even though the Pope did not. :-) There are lots of examples of people wearing crosses in that period -- check out those done by Holbein. As for the later period... maybe. Charles I was notoriously sympathetic to Catholics because of Henrietta Maria, his wife. Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kate M Bunting Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 5:12 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Religious symbols in jewellery, was Renaissance dress -- Karen wrote: I think that you have a good idea about the skirt but you may be a bit off base on the necklace. If you look closely at the vertical elements you can see they form the initials I and H. In period it was common/fashionable to wear the symbol of 'IHS' which are the Latin initials of Jesus. It was particularly used in the Protestant countries (I'm most familiar with England) because wearing a crucifix was out of favor as being too Papist. Personally, I think this is the most likely explanation although the wearing of initials/symbols of significant people is not out of the question. That's interesting. My living history persona is the widow of a Gentleman of the Chapel Royal in the 1640s. I've wondered about wearing a cross, but decided against it as I felt that it would have been considered too Papist at the time. Kate Bunting Cataloguing Data Quality Librarian University of Derby ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Click here to discover unbeatable cruise deals. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3nL6YvWr1H4xylvcy1uVdWcYDhMgi3CdhkjMIUOhgOkYI0pS/?count=1234567890 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] renaissance dress
No need to apologize, I'm just a fresh set of eyes looking at it. I'm sure you would have realized it eventually. I can't wait to see the finished product! (But I'll make do with the interesting 'in progress' postings in the mean time.) Karen Seamstrix -- Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Oh you are quite right, sorry about that mistake, Thanks for the informations.. Bjarne - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 5:17 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] renaissance dress I think that you have a good idea about the skirt but you may be a bit off base on the necklace. If you look closely at the vertical elements you can see they form the initials I and H. In period it was common/fashionable to wear the symbol of 'IHS' which are the Latin initials of Jesus. It was particularly used in the Protestant countries (I'm most familiar with England) because wearing a crucifix was out of favor as being too Papist. Personally, I think this is the most likely explanation although the wearing of initials/symbols of significant people is not out of the question. Karen Seamstrix -- Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have uploaded some more pictures. I made a drawing after the portrait and removed the hands from the front, and this is my theory of her skirt. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm I wondered about her juwelry necklace with the big S on it. Her name is Constance, but i found out she was a lady in waiting at the court of the king Christian IV's mother Sofie who came from Mecklenburg. It must be a gift from the queen. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Boost your productivity with new office software. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3mEauJF0hy8b9dqtW7dfMZioyP8RtXNYN7FSyPJEN3RPUghi/?count=1234567890 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Click here to become certified in medical billing and training at these schools. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3ol4Ju547MllPNBke42Cmnn2ui3OzXKVDT0dktzD1FaOro7e/?count=1234567890 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] renaissance dress
I think that you have a good idea about the skirt but you may be a bit off base on the necklace. If you look closely at the vertical elements you can see they form the initials I and H. In period it was common/fashionable to wear the symbol of 'IHS' which are the Latin initials of Jesus. It was particularly used in the Protestant countries (I'm most familiar with England) because wearing a crucifix was out of favor as being too Papist. Personally, I think this is the most likely explanation although the wearing of initials/symbols of significant people is not out of the question. Karen Seamstrix -- Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have uploaded some more pictures. I made a drawing after the portrait and removed the hands from the front, and this is my theory of her skirt. http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/br.htm I wondered about her juwelry necklace with the big S on it. Her name is Constance, but i found out she was a lady in waiting at the court of the king Christian IV's mother Sofie who came from Mecklenburg. It must be a gift from the queen. Bjarne ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Boost your productivity with new office software. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3mEauJF0hy8b9dqtW7dfMZioyP8RtXNYN7FSyPJEN3RPUghi/?count=1234567890 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Knitted Cleaves ?
I'm new here and have been lurking, but I actually know the answer to this one. The designer Katherine Summer O'Neal said I decided to call this design cleaves because it's a combination of a cowl and sleeves, and it covers my cleavage! from http://www.knitty.com/issuespring05/PATTcleaves.html Susan From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Knitted Cleaves ? To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: BAY133-W1 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 http://www.etsy.com/alchemy/request.php?id=9092 Anyone know what the origin of the name of this thing is? Cool site btw for handmade items. If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it? A. Einstein _ Click to get a free auto insurance quotes from top companies. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iifSLoSZlYIMx2HCd89PdwLDwqgm135Ezj8WiuT8XlqmK5616/?count=1234567890 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help finding image
I don't have an on-line source, but it's on page 80 of my 'Visual History of Costume: The Sixteenth Century' by Jane Ashelford. Karen Seamstrix -- Rebecca Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Alright - I thought I had one bookmarked, but cannot find it when I need it! I am looking for an online source of the image which shows 4 or 5 English women in mid-16th century, with one of the women labelled something like countrywoman. If I'm not mixing up my images, she is carrying a basket (with chickens) to take to market in town. One of the other women may be a citizen of London Does anyone know what I'm talking about and have a link to this image somewhere?? Thank you!!! *** Rebecca Schmitt aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence Bristol Renaissance Faire My arms are too short to box with God. --Johnny Cash *** ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] looking for tudor/elizabethan references
Janet Arnold has some excellent examples of this in her book A Handbook of Costume. One really good example is on pages 22-23 where she compares 4 different portraits of Jane Seymour where, although all clearly intended to be the same outfit, there are significant differences in the details. Karen Seamstrix -- Pixel, Goddess and Queen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Help!! My consort and I are preparing a class about visual sources and why they should not be taken as 100% gospel when doing costuming research, and as usual once I get past about 1300 I hit a snag. :-) If you want to discourse on the changes in sleeve geometry from 1200 to 1300 in England and France, I'm your girl. Anything after that, though, and I am at a total loss. Our stated time frame is up to 1600, and we have sources up to and including 1300. However, we would also like to use examples from post 1300 as well, and that's where I come to all you later-period specialists. I have been told that there are several portraits out there, by the same artist, of different sitters, but using the same or almost the same dress. Is this in fact the case, and if so, where can I find images of these portraits? My consort tells me that there are also portraits of various male members of a family all portrayed in the same suit of armor--again, if anyone has any references I can chase down that would be incredibly helpful. And yes, I plan on using the portrait of Elizabeth in the eyes-and-ears gown as an example of symbolism. Many many many thanks, pixel/Jen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Click to make millions by owning your own franchise. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3m6eOwsIAqYrWRrLqXuOmhmvqLMh2rbl1rQQGCwH8RUTLfYs/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Muckinger construction
The term 'muckinger' is just an Elizabethan term for 'handkercheif'. There's no special construction implied. The double layered-ness is, as you suspected, a modern cheat so that machine embroidery can be used. In period a muckinger might be plain linen or it might have a lace edge or a bit of blackwork around the edge. You are also right in that initials aren't really done that much in period. If there's a symbol Ansel likes to use as a personal 'device', it would be more appropriate to have that embroidered on it. Karen Seamstrix Philadelphia, Lady Scrope BRF, Guild of St. George -- Kate M Bunting [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Otsisto wrote: Muckinger or Muckender (Ger. schnupftuch (sp?) )Is a handkerchief. This is the first I have heard of it being two layers but I am not an expert on this. -Original Message- I have a quick question for those of you who go to the Bristol Ren Faire. Ansel was asking me to make him something called a muckinger which he saw for sale at the Faire. It was a double layer embroidered hanky. Based on his description, I am thinking that the double layer was to cover the back of machine embroidery stitching. Can anybody point me to a description of this accessory? I did a google search and didn't come up with much. None of the examples shown were double layered. I've seen it spelled muckinder (in the Cunnington 17th century book). A Google search on that brings up several definitions, mainly calling it a child's handkerchief worn attached to the clothing. I don't think the double layer construction is essential. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Get educated. Click here for Adult Education programs. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3nNbXPqEZg2JjtrIYvUMWCaKbT5ijRu5WoXx8Yxulaj3rTQs/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] gift exchange
I was hoping to try it again, even though I never received a gift, nor an acknowledgment of the one I sent (and chose not to follow up on it, assuming it would be a lot of trouble for you!). But thanks for all your hard work, I think it was a great idea! Melissa Roberts __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] peasant clothing in the 16th-17th century
'The Tudor Tailor' by Ninya Mikhaila has lots of styles that are either working class or easily adaptable to working class. I believe it is readily available on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Tudor-Tailor-reconstructing-sixteenth-century/dp/0896762556/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/104-0545319-9158352?ie=UTF8s=booksqid=1189168104sr=1-1 Karen Seamstrix -- zelda crusher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: These are both on Drea's website, there's more there but I don't have time to do it right now. I may have other sites, etc bookmarked and will look later if no one else sugggests them first. http://www.elizabethancostume.net/ http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/secondhandclothes.html Laurie From: Zuzana Kraemerova [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] peasant clothing in the 16th-17th century Date: Fri, 7 Sep 2007 01:14:00 -0700 (PDT) Does anyone of you know any good sources (books or websites) on peasant and lower-class clothing in the 16th or 17th century? All books say lots and lots about court and aristocratic dresses, but no one obviously cares about peasants. The only thing I could find seems to be completely unavailable: Well-Dressed Peasant: 16th Century Flemish Workingwomen's Dress Temp out of stock Drea Leed. Author describes her research into various aspects of the garments, then details construction, including very simple patterns. Tr pb, saddle-stapled, 76pp. Color covers inside covers, 4 color interior plates, numerous b/w photos of period art showing working women's garments. Notes, pictography bibliography, plus appendices on making a bodice pattern, fabric sources. Costume Dressmaker Press So do you know anything like this? Any hints will be very useful to me:-) - Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Kick back and relax with hot games and cool activities at the Messenger Café. http://www.cafemessenger.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_SeptHMtagline1 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume _ Click for free info on rehab treatments for drug amp; alcohol dependency. http://3rdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3nCeLIksk90f9TtzoN64HToJLKRV9qAyblCb7tn043NhpbTi/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Prices in 1957
I believe that old Sears catalogs are available various places and other large stores might also have records of their offerings from back 'in the day'. They would be a good source for middle-class average costs. Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Questions: Tibetan Panel Coat
To anyone who has made Folkwear's Tibetan Panel Coat, or lives someplace where they can take a look at a real one: Is this supposed to be a knee-length garment, or a mid-calf? The envelope picture isn't clear. I already tried asking Folkwear directly, and the response was moron, look at the back of the envelope, it's a 47 long garment. 47 inches long would be almost floor-length on me, and I know that's too long. I need to shorten this, but how _much_ do I need to shorten it? Also, my pattern does not have the adjustment lines that the pattern instructions claim are present. Does it work better to shorten at the hem, or about the middle of the pattern piece? Leah ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 18th century German hosen
I'm more familiar with the latter half of the 18th century, but as far as I know, breeches were standard for all European men. The ones for a working man might be made of coarser stuff and not nearly as fitted, but they were breeches none the less. I'm sure you've already considered it, but the best source I know for dress specific to Pennsylvania is Rural Pennsylvania Clothing by Ellen Gehret. Karen Seamstrix -- Candace Perry [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Greetings: I'm new to the list and really seeking resources on quite specific time periods and people. I am hoping somewhere out there someone will have some answers, as I haven't stumbled across anything in my travels. What I am looking for today is information on what the average rural German (and to be more specific, we can say Saxon or Silesian) may have worn in the 17th through approximately mid 18th century in terms of pants/trousers/breeches/hosen. We've been having a discussion here at my place of employ, which interprets a specific Pennsylvania German group, about trousers during this period, as at least initially the trousers were most likely the same for the immigrants in PA as they were for their kinsman in the homeland. My colleague seems to think they could not have worn breeches, as their English counterparts might have here in the colonies. To him it seems far too formal for a farmer to be wearing breeches, but frankly I don't know otherwise. We have no artifact record to turn to, unfortunately, except for that of a more formal nature. It has been long accepted that the costume of the local rural German speaking man in the late 18th century would have included breeches, but my colleague questions this, and I can see his point. Was there some sort of loose fitting pants with pockets the average working German Joe would have worn? We're not talking peasant but more of a small landowning farmer or craftsman. Not an impoverished type by any means. (please forgive my use of terminology with trousers/pants etc.) Thanks so much for your time and thoughts, Candace Perry Schwenkfelder Library Heritage Center Pennsburg, PA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Seeking H-Costume Member
If Lisa Sinervo is still on the list, or if anyone knows how to get in touch with her, could you please contact me at: seamstrix(at)juno.com Thanks! Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Anglo-Saxon in a nutshell?
This is probably the best overall site to give you a taste of the era. http://www.regia.org/ In terms of fashion there are certain conventions that have come to be accepted as differentiating Saxon and Norman, but in period there had been enough cultural exchange in the decades before The Conquest, that Normans and Saxons were probably dressed almost alike. The convention states that Saxon male tunics are shorter and have tighter sleeves than Norman tunics and that female Norman tunics are tighter fitting and have wider sleeves than Saxon tunics. Both these conventions are open to argument. Karen Seamstrix -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I will be attending an event with a theme of Saxons vs. Normans, later this summer. My husband and I have elected to side with the Saxons, but as this is rather earlier than my usual periods, I'm not sure where to start. How does Saxon dress differ from Norman dress of roughly the same period? Are there any nifty websites that everybody who does 11th Century costuming knows about? I don't need to be Excruciatingly Correct, but I do want to be identifiably Saxon. Thank you for any pointers you may have, Emma ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] wearing hat indoors.
There's a type of little cap which I believe was worn with a robe ala francaise which resembles nothing so much as a doily with a few ribbon hanging down the back. It's basically a starched round of fine linen, maybe 3-4 inches in radius, with an edging of fine lace about 1- 1/2 inches wide. Then a little cluster of fine silk ribbons is attached via a stitched bow at the back so the ribbon ends flow down to about the nape of the neck. I believe it's just pinned to the top of the hair with a straight pin. With your skills, I'm sure you could finish one of those off in no time and she'd be correctly dressed. Karen Seamstrix -- Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, I am in the middle of finishing the red taffeta dress and i am also making a hat to go with the dress, large brim, low crown. Now i just heard that the girl i am making it for is going to open an exhibition at Gammel Estrup about table settings for tea and coffe, trough the ages. Its june 10th, just the day before i travel on holliday to Italy. http://www.gammelestrup.dk/ Now i wished i had made her a cap, but i dont think i wil have the time for that. Wil she be able to wear the hat indoors, or wil it look strange? http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/sofie3.htm Bjarne www.my-drewscostumes.dk http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Ruff question
I double mine and put a medium fishing line in the folded edge using the zipper foot. I also starched the linen first. Cheers, Aylwen http://www.bordonia.org - Original Message - From: WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: [h-cost] Ruff question Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 13:25:37 -0700 I'd double it. Sg -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sharon Collier Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 1:13 PM To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] Ruff question I want to make an Elizabethan ruff. I have some fine linen , but the selvedge is funky. Should I double the fabric, having a fold at the outside edge of the ruff or should I just hem the outside edge with a narrow hem? Sharon C. Young lovers seek perfection, Old lovers learn the art of sewing shreds together And of seeing beauty in a multiplicity of patches - How To Make An American Quilt ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question
Yes, I agree. I have had so much grief with men's outfits - pattern companies always make the armsyces too loose, and so I've had to re-draft most of the sleeves for our band's outfits. Then, the men ask why I'm making the sleeves so tight - today's modern styles make it hard for them to realise they will have more movement. Because we wear these outfits for dancing we need to raise our arms above the head. At least for Elizabethan I can make the sleeves detachable! Cheers, Aylwen - Original Message - From: Carmen Beaudry [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question Date: Thu, 26 Apr 2007 19:48:35 -0700 From: Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED] Just my 2 cents worth, but when I looked at the pic on the front of the pattern, the armseye seems too large. If you look at the pics of Helen Mirren in these gowns, the sleeves fit tightly up under the arm. Gives a more period look, but maybe is not so comfortable or easy to fit for today's folks. This is counter-intuitive, but the more fitted the armseye , the more movement you have, as long as the sleeve head rests on the point of the shoulder. I make Elizabethan and Cavalier doublets and bodices for rapier combat and making the armseye too big makes the whole garment pull with movement and actually restricts the arm. However, it has to be fitted to the individual, not made as an approximation or average, which is why most modern clothes are so loose. Melusine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question
Hi Dawn Do you think the sleeve is accurate? It looks to me as though it is too shaped. In Jean Hunnisett the sleeves do not have as much shaping. I've brought the pattern to work with me today to trace off at lunch time. Cheers Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: velvet and embroidery
Would vilene tearaway, heavy duty work? I used this a lot with my satin stitching on Irish dance costumes and have miles of it. Cheers, Aylwen - Original Message - From: Cozit / Liz [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Re: velvet and embroidery Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 21:53:47 -0400 Bjarne had a good point I'd forgotten! For *most* embroidery on velvet, you will probably want to use some form of waste canvas or gauze that you can cut away afterwards to help keep the threads from hiding down in the velvet velveteen as well. Good Luck! -Liz ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question
I'll have a look at my other patterns tonight and sort out the sleeve later. I've traced it all out, and added the side back bodice to the front pieces, so I can lace up the side back/back seam to allow for growth fluctuations. I will use the front opening for putting on though. I'm being inspired by some of the gorgeous gowns on Festive Attyre. I'm planning to wear a high necked smock underneath - do you think I can do this and wear a ruff? I'd love to find an example of this showing some blackwork on the collar and cuffs. Must get back to work, Aylwen - Original Message - From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity Elizabethan pattern - a question Date: Wed, 25 Apr 2007 22:56:41 -0500 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Dawn Do you think the sleeve is accurate? It looks to me as though it is too shaped. In Jean Hunnisett the sleeves do not have as much shaping. I don't have Hunnisett so I can't say how they compare with her. However I do think the sleeve cap is a little too poofy. Dawn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes
1. Mini-skirts: Girl's skirt lengths were measured I graduated high school in 1968. Our skirts could be no shorter than the width of a business envelope above the knee. The principal carried one in his pocket and did random spot checks between classes and at lunch. If your skirt was too short, they pinned strips of obnoxious patterned fabric to the hem of your skirt and you had to wear it the rest of the day. Three infractions and you got detention and suspension from extra curricular activities. We were very adept at rolling them up at the waist and then dropping them down as soon as he turned the corner. 2. Girls' pants: When were girls' allowed to wear pants to school. Pants-suits, hiphuggers? The only girls who could wear pants to school were members of the high school band on the days we had a concert or other band activity that required a band uniform. 3. Boys' Hair: Allowed to wear long hair Boy's hair styles are still pretty short at this time and in this area (Gettysburg, PA). Heck - we still had a few guys who wore DA's! 4. Boy's mustaches: When allowed No facial hair like mustaches or beards, but a few guys had some awesome sideburns. Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 1-4, 2007 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] yardage for short cloak?
Hi, I'm distant from my books and patterns right now and need to work out the yardage required to make a full short cloak out of narrow velveteen. What would you recommend? The cloak needs to go to the hip on a med/large guy. Many thanks, Aylwen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Dianne Lewandowski
Lorina, she's not historic costume-minded (is that a term?), just embroidery. Do you need to get in touch with her? Melissa No need to miss a message. Get email on-the-go with Yahoo! Mail for Mobile. Get started. http://mobile.yahoo.com/mail ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Chicago trip
The main Indian area in Chicago is on the Northside on Devon Ave between Western Ave. and California Ave. There's tons of sari shops, lots of Indian style jewelry shops, and fabulous Indian restaurants. Karen Seamstrix -- Pierre Sandy Pettinger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Susan, I third the recommendation for Vogue fabrics. Huge place with tons of stuff. You can check them out ahead of time: http://www.voguefabricsstore.comVogueFabricsStore.com Also check out the Sari district - I'm not sure where it is exactly (we were in a group), but I'm sure someone here can narrow it down. That was the place I finally found a salwar kameez set that was both in a color I liked and in my size (large - XL to XXL and tall - 5' 11) DH got a suit too. But it's not just limited to clothing - picked up lots of saris for fabric and fabric lengths also. HTH, Sandy At 09:47 AM 2/16/2007, you wrote: Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 19:14:20 -0500 From: Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations Speaking of Traveling ... I'm going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th) What should I see there? (yeah, the fabric district, got any specific recommendations?) susan Those Who Fail To Learn History Are Doomed to Repeat It; Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -- Why They Are Simply Doomed. Achemdro'hm The Illusion of Historical Fact -- C.Y. 4971 Andromeda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Child's costume - lappets?
I believe they are usually referred to leading bands or leading strings. Lappets are usually a part of a woman's cap. Here's an article that referrs to them as part of children's costume: http://www.history.org/history/clothing/children/child01.cfm Karen Seamstrix -- Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Do any of you know of some sources which discuss the pieces of cloth (typically from the shoulder or sleeve scye) hanging from a child's costume? I need some reference material to support my discussion and can't seem to find anything specifically in my books. I have always referred to them as lappetsmaybe this is why I can't find the reference? You can see it in the following picture. http://www.thinker.org/imagebase_zoom.asp?rec=6259302223530010 Or http://tinyurl.com/3y4vr6 It makes sense to me, and I seem to recall they were used to hang on to kids. This one shows a rope attached to the small child. http://tinyurl.com/3eyaqz ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations
I second the recommendation for Vogue Fabrics in Evanston. It's probably one of the best fabric stores in the country. I also recommend that you consider visiting Bristol RenFaire which will be opening the weekend of July 78. Karen Seamstrix -- Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Speaking of Traveling ... I'm going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th) What should I see there? (yeah, the fabric district, got any specific recommendations?) susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Janet Arnold article
Apologies to everyone else for the bandwidth, but would Michelle M., Anne M., Elena House, and Beth Matney please contact me privately? These are folks who were interested in the Janet Arnold article that I have. My computer melted down a couple of weeks ago, and I have lost your addresses. Thanks, Melanie myhosting.com - Premium Microsoft® Windows® and Linux web and application hosting - http://link.myhosting.com/myhosting ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Looking For Fabric Info
I was wondering if the amazingly knowledgable folks on this list could give me some feedback on what eras a woolen fabric would be appropriate for? I have a picture of it posted at my LiveJournal for those interested in taking a look. It's wool, the colors are good for most eras, and the slightly open twill is good for most of the eras I'd want to make. I'm just not sure about the overall look of the fabric. Opinions? http://seamstrix.livejournal.com/ Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: american civil war
We've had several dozen original women's garments that closed left-over-right on display at the Conference over the years. Either way is correct; the notes I have in my research indicate left-over-right was slightly more common. 55%-45% or possibly 60%-40%; I don't have my notes at this location. Bonnets are generally worn by mature women for most social occasions: church, visiting, shopping, etc. Hats are generally reserved for outdoor recreational activities: walking, boating, playing croquet or similar games, at a watering place or the seaside. Other hat styles, pork pie, Glengarry, etc., are usually favored by younger women or an older but very fashionable woman. I define mature as someone mid-20s or older; or a married woman of any age. As always, there are exceptions based on any number of circumstances. Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 1-4, 2007 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: american civil war
I wonder how WHAT the garment is affects this. I mean, is one more likely to find jackets that overlap left to right than say a dress or blouse? Jackets were sorta coming into their own in the 1860's after a few decades of domination by the dress with skirt attached. I haven't studied enough jackets or other outer garments to make a determination. Almost all of my references are dresses. Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 1-4, 2007 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] RE: victorian wedding clothes,
On Fri Jan 5 14:18 , 'otsisto' [EMAIL PROTECTED] sent: I had not noticed before but this has a vest(?) on it. It's not a vest. It's a shaped fichu; triangular back ending at the waist, long tails that come over the shoulder then wrap to the back and tie. It is trimmed with box pleated silk ribbon ruching and Chantilly lace. There are detailed photographs of it in the book To Love and To Cherish. The dress has a low body - wide off-the- shoulder neckline, short puffed sleeves, pointed waistline. The dress belonged to a young lady from New England (I don't have her name at this location). She sailed around the Cape to San Francisco where she would wed her fiance. She was married shortly after her arrival (the next day, I believe) in the dress she traveled in; the wedding dress was never worn. :-( I'll look up the details and post them when I get home this evening. Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 1-4, 2007 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1870s buttons....
In addition to other comments: I've also found these buttons on garments made of lighter weight fabrics such as silk tafffeta. In many instances, the buttons are not sewn on. The shank is inserted through a hand-sewn eyelet and the button is secured on the wrong side with a clip, a long piece of linen twill tape, or a thin strip of leather or, in two examples, a piece of string. This technique provides much more support and less strain on the bodice. Carolann Schmitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 1-4, 2007 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Holiday Exchange Received
My package from Diane arrived today! She sent me a nice pair of scrubby gloves which will be great for getting rid of dry winter skin, several candles which I love, a small spiral notebook, two foot-fizzers for sore feet, a small pincushion, and a string of rice pearls and some beading needles. I will think of her generosity as I sew the pearls onto an Elizabethan partlet I have planned and every time I wear it. Thank-you, Diane! Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1860 dress
The dress is beautiful! I love that shade of red. All the details look just right. Karen Seamstrix -- Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, I am so happy. Finally I made my 1860 dress so that I really like it. http://www.deredere.dds.nl/19thcent/19woman/Victorian/Victorian.html I wore it at the Anton Pieck Parade in Haarlem (the Netherlands). We had so much fun. There are some more pictures here (click on galerij in the menu on the left) http://www.de_zwarte_zwaan.dds.nl/index2.html Greetings, Deredere ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 0f belts and hanging sleeves
I believe that Swiss belts in the mid-19th century were the ones that were wider in the front, often with a point at center front and frequently had a laced effect there mimicking the lacing on a bodice. Which portrait are you referring to for Queen E? The portrait I know as the Darnley Portrait is the one in gold and cream with the 'Polish' frog closures up the front of the doublet-bodice and no sign of hanging sleeves at all. Are you thinking of one of the Armada portraits? Karen Seamstrix -- LLOYD MITCHELL [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Two questions: Waugh suggests Swiss belts for some of the mid 19thC dresses. Any clue as to what these looked like? I am working out the problems of interpreting the Darnley Dress for my QEI 14 doll. At first, I thought I was looking at a sleeveless coat be set to give a cape effect. On closer examenation, I see that this is actually a hanging sleeve...born out by Waugh, Arnold, and Hunnisett. I have worked out the shape and cut but am having problems with the set. In order for the unity of the skirt , bodice and sleeve that bear the ornamentation, I can only achieve the look by inserting the hanging sleeve outside in. This means that the lining will actually be the outside fabric. Has anyone else attempted this dress for real? I have turned the backside of the shoulder area backwards so the gathers of the shoulder look like the painting...and will tack them downover the silk lining, but the lining is still exposed in all its plainess. I have been unable to find any explanation of how this was done. Or, might the error be at the end of the artist's brush? He chose to try to capture the total dazzle of the gown? Kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 16th century costume pictures ?
Those are from Vecellio's Costume Book. A reprint is generally available from Dover. He's better at the Italian stuff since he actually saw that and wasn't just getting second hand reports on it. It also has his idea of clothing from China and the Americas as well as most of Europe. Karen Seamstrix -- Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Quoting Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Dawn wrote: But it looks like 16th century Norse (?) drawings of clothing. Check out the pics near the end of women with pipes in their mouths and spinning in hand. At least, I think it's a pipe, it's a stick with fire coming out of it. Let me try that again. It mangled the link. http://www.nb.no/nbvev/eksternvev/html/italienske_tresnitt.html *NEAT* Those are just too cool. susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Event query
Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote: Hello the list! A friend sent me this website because he knows I like this stuff. http://www.oook.cz/events/hradec-kralove06/ Can anyone tell me what event I'm looking at? Pretty colors, eh? --Ruth Anne Baumgartner scholar gypsy and amateur costumer I have no idea what event it is but the photos are gorgeous. When I was stationed in southern Italy I attended a multi-day event in Otranto where the four quarters of the city competed in jousting, wrestling and so forth to see which quarter had first rights to take water from the city well. The whole thing was done in 14th century armor and clothing as the tradition went back to at least that far. I wonder if this is something similar... Edlyn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drea Leeds site
Try http://www.elizabethancostume.net/ I just got to it. Edlyn Cascio Michael wrote: Hi all, Does anyone know where Drea Leeds most excellent site went? Every one of the pages I had bookmarked from her site is giving me a 404 error and I'm not getting a site when I try googling for the main site. Help? Cassandra ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Mona Lisa
IN the last day or so, there have been a number of reports on the intensive laser scan that a Canadian outfit is doing on DaVinci's Mona Lisa. In addition to a number of other new information, they are saying that they have detected a gauze veil on her head that they are claiming demonstrates that she had just given birth. They are saying that this gauze veil was something that was typically worn by women who were either pregnant or had just given birth. I'll be the first one to admit that Italian Ren isn't my area of expertise, but as far as I know a gauze veil was simply a common headcovering for women at that time. Does anybody on the list have any definitive information on the social significance of gauze veils in Renaissance Italy? To me, this smacks of yet another Costume Myth, but one with a significant impact due to this report. Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mona Lisa
-- david webb [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: As a proud Canadian, standing on guard for thee, trusty ally to Britain and the U.S. in peace and war, etc. etc. yadda, yadda, I winced a bit at the reference to the Canadian outfit (which makes it sound as if the local cowboys, hunting lodge or wedding videotapers had a go at it);-). No offense meant to our Neighbors Ta Da Nort', eh! I just couldn't remember the correct name as I was typing. And since I come from Chicago, calling stuff an 'outfit' just seems to come naturally. 8-) The National Research Council Canada which particpated in this exercise has been around for a long time and is fairly reputable scientific organization. They have cooperated with NASA and the Canadarm, if I recall correctly. Granted, they may know richard-all about costume quirks of fecund women during Leonardo's period, but it was one of the French collaborators that made that claim. I have no doubt that the tech is spot on and that they have found what they say they have found. However, since I have a more than passing interest in historic costume and am reasonably familiar with Renaissance clothing yet have never encountered something that was specifically indicative of about-to and just-given birth, I thought I'd toss that out to the list whose collective wisdom on matters of historic costume is always impressive. It just smells like a Costume Myth to me.but I could be wrong Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bad historical costume movies
Is this what you're interested in? http://www.orchardcorset.com/Merchant2/p_G204.html I also recommend a look around the rest of the site as there are many other similar styles to choose from. Karen Seamstrix -- Sylvia Rognstad [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Speaking of lift and separate bras, does anyone know if Playtex still makes those? I need some 50s looking bras and the closest I could find the last time I was looking was the Playtex variety. Sylrog ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] crepe fabric for sale
I've been cleaning out again! I have 16 yds of white Swiss pima cotton crepe (Spechler Vogel) for sale as one piece for $80.00 (plus shipping) which is a little less than wholesale - it's left from when I had an heirloom sewing business. It has a beautiful sheen and very fine springy texture, drapes nicely. I can send pictures. If interested, email [EMAIL PROTECTED] Melissa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Web Site Update
I have just done a a massive update to my web site.actually, I cracked the whip over my poor, abused webmaster and HE did a massive update of the site for me. http://seamstrix.com/index.html The new items are under: Elizabethan Costumes Red Surcoat American Civil War Costumes Happy viewing! Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] new images of Elizabethan gowns online
Gorgeous work, as usual. It's nice to see your more recent projects. I still like your red brocade gown the best, having seen it in person in all it's glory. Karen Seamstrix -- Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Greetings to all, I've finally gotten some pictures of more of my Elizabethan gowns online. There are six new pages and one old page with better pictures accessible from this menu page: http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/eliz.html Melanie Schuessler ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Judging costume contest? Help!
Our local Habitat for Humanity affiliate is having a theme party fundraiser, 20s/30s era, and is planning a costume contest. The tickets are sold to the general public and fancy dress is optional, so pretty much anything goes. We need help with the logistics of it. Should guests have to sign up for the contest, should we just choose someone from the crowd and announce it, how should we handle it? We really need to make it fun and so that no one's hurt or embarrassed. (These are guests who are donating $ and playing games, not a serious special interest group.) Has anyone ever been involved in something like this? Any ideas or suggestions are most welcome, thanks! Melissa - Want to be your own boss? Learn how on Yahoo! Small Business. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] clothing from the crusades
My husband is early period, around 1196-1220 time frame. I'm looking for period references for clothing for a middle class, or nobility (other than monarchs) from that era. While I have found MANY references to the armor and surcoats they wore, I haven't found a lot of references to everyday clothing. Can someone point me in the right direction for that time period? Gwenhwyfar mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] RE: ruff
I have made several ruffs using both before and after starching methods. I find if I prep the fabric by starching it and ironing it first, I get a much better result when I start the pleating. Its a method I read about in Jean Hunniset's Stage to screen. While I am not a scholar on the subject, I have done some prelim research on it. http://thevilla.sccspirit.com/sisters/gwen_projects.htm Gwenhwyfar Message: 4 Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 11:30:41 -0500 From: Shane Sheridan [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Ruff To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 It's Sunday morning, and the caffeine has not yet percolated its way into my brain, so here's a possibly silly question: is it a good idea to starch the fabric of a ruff *before* or *after* you sew it together? Sheridan P. -- Message: 5 Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 12:47:25 -0400 From: SPaterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruff To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1; reply-type=original IMNTBHO, before Sarah P. - Original Message - From: Shane Sheridan [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 12:30 PM Subject: [h-cost] Ruff It's Sunday morning, and the caffeine has not yet percolated its way into my brain, so here's a possibly silly question: is it a good idea to starch the fabric of a ruff *before* or *after* you sew it together? Sheridan P. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Message: 6 Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 12:22:38 -0600 From: Melanie Schuessler [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruff To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Shane Sheridan wrote: It's Sunday morning, and the caffeine has not yet percolated its way into my brain, so here's a possibly silly question: is it a good idea to starch the fabric of a ruff *before* or *after* you sew it together? After. If you want the lovely figure-eights to work out right, just sew a very tightly gathered band of fabric to the top of your neckband. Then soak it in liquid starch and proceed from there. Full instructions of how I do mine are on my website at http://www.faucet.net/costume/period/ruff.html The thing is, every time you wash it, the starch all comes out. So you don't want to have to take it all apart every time you have to wash and re-starch. And you will want to wash it--they sit right next to the neck and are prey to ring around the ruff. Happy starching, Melanie Schuessler Message: 9 Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 10:47:45 -0700 From: WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruff To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed One of my ruffs is made from silk organza, and lace, it was pretty stiff before I starched it. It is actually easier to work with IMHO than something soft and flimsy Having done it both ways I prefer something with substance. Sg Message: 11 Date: Sun, 12 Mar 2006 17:59:18 + From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] Ruff To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed If you use straw stiffener (millinery supplies) you stiffen it first, then form the eights and glue or sew them (glueing is authentic, or rather sticking with gum arabic IIRC). You don't wash, but clean with water, and re-stiffen with steam every time it goes limp. Useful for theatre, where you haven't time to do every ruff every time. Suzi mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] fine drawing
You're right. Fine drawing is described in the instructions as like lacing so it sounds like it could be used to reinforce a seam. It just wouldn't look anything like the pictures I posted when used that way. :-) __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] fine drawing samples
I don't know if this helps with the definition you're looking for or not, but here are two samples of fine drawing from Woolman's Sewing Course, c1900, where it's used to patch damask. It was also used on heavy cloth as the stitches could be hidden in the material. It's different from seaming, but it does join two pieces butted together without overlap the way seaming does. http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing01.jpg http://www.hollisandbell.com/Cat7706/finedrawing03.jpg The dotted piece is about 2.5 cm and the fringed one just over 3 cm. I have a brief description and illustration of it in my book, Plain Needlework - A Guide to Nineteenth Century Hand Sewing. http://hollisandbell.com/ Melissa Roberts - Yahoo! Mail Use Photomail to share photos without annoying attachments. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Harris Tweed
Harris tweed is amazing stuff- if it's the real thing it is handwoven in the Isle of Harris off the Scottish coast which is why it's so narrow. That's the typical width for a single person handloom. If I were you, I'd consider making him a period hood with perhaps a matching belt pouch ( really nice one, not just a drawstring thingie). Harris tweed is just too nice not to use. Karen Seamstrix -- Caroline [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have been very fortunate and have come into the posession of just over 3 yards of Harris Tweed. It's only 28 wide so it's a bit small for a tunic for my other half. I could make a medieval tunic with different material in the sleeves? Any thoughts as to how that might look - are we in a 'spoiling the ship for a ha'porth of tar' situation. Can anyone think of something that could be made with it? I suppose if all else fails I could sell it -- Caroline ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 1880s Hamburg edging
Hello, Does anyone know exactly what Hamburg embroidery (edging, insertion) was? I know the basic dictionary a kind of embroidered work done by machinery on cambric or muslin but I'm trying to find out what distinguishes it from Swiss embroidery, fine embroidery or simply embroidery - when describing cotton embroidered trims and mentioned in 1880s-1900 catalogs and books. What makes it different?? thanks, Melissa - Yahoo! Photos Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Chinese Mummies (was Humans in England, 700k years?)
Well, since the ethnic Chinese who discovered them and the locals in the area thought it was weird that the mummies were Caucasian, that's good enough for me. While the Silk and Spice Roads were known to be in operation 1000 to 2000 years ago, finding these people in that area put the whole timeline of the area back several thousand years. I have the book and it makes it quite clear that the AGE of the finds was what they found remarkable- more recent Caucasian remains wouldn't have been as odd. Also, these folks appear to be from a Celtic/Proto-Celtic (in the broadest sense of Celtic, I'm not talking about Irish!) people judging from their fabric. The fabric was found with a clear twill weave, something that the Chinese didn't use. Of course in retrospect it's clear that some people went east instead of west in the migrations that brought the Celtic people all over the Eurasian continent, it's just that these finds were the first evidence that a Celtic people moved that far east and settled there. Karen Seamstrix -- Marc Carlson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Karen R Bergquist [EMAIL PROTECTED] ...rhodesiensis) was still in Africa. The mummies of Urumchi date to about 4,000 years ago and are homo sapiens although they appear to be caucasian rather than oriental which is why finding them in the interior of China is so remarkable. Except that it really shouldn't be.- it's not like they were found in the Yangtze basin. They're from an area where Caucasians were known to be historically; and a much shorter walk from the assumed areas where the Indo-European ancestors are supposed to be from than any of the other areas where we know they went to the west and south. Some going east makes perfect sense. We just tend to assume that if something happened in a particular geographical region, everyone in that region must be alike. It's similar to the current argueent that since Egypt is in Africa, Cleopatra must have been black, and ignoring the whole reality of regional ethnic types (and more so of their placement 2000 years ago). Marc ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Chinese Mummies (was Humans in England, 700k years?)
Okay, I went to the book. Here's one of the pertinent passages. According to Chinese historical documents, the Han Chinese themselves began to move into Central Asia only around 120B.C., struggling to open up regular trade with the West. So historians would not particularly expect Chinese mummies in Central Asia in the second millenium B.C. But why not Mongoloid? Archeologists and linguists alike had assumed that the Mongol-type peoples had 'always' inhabited this entire area, ever since the spread of Homo sapiens sapiens around the globe at the end of the Ice Age forty thousand years ago. They also assumed central and northern Asia to be the general homeland of the Altaic linguistic group, which today includes Mongol and the various Turkic and Tungusic languages. (Northern Central Asia was of course the heartland from which emanated the great invasions of Turks and Mongols during our own millneium.) To find Caucasians was a surprise. Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] narnia movie
Original Message: - From: Gail Scott Finke [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 20:46:20 -0400 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] narnia movie Okay, so who saw The Lion, The Witch, and the Wardrobe this weekend??? The kids' 40s costumes looked good to me. The king and queen costumes at the end -- blech. There was a lot of great armour, and some really beautiful tents. Susan's first Narnia dress was particularly nice, the other kids' clothes passable. But what the heck was the White Witch wearing at the beginning? Some sort of prom dress gone bad, and I don't even know how to DESCRIBE what was going on with the shoulders. I thought the king and queen costumes at the end looked very pre-raphaelite, just right for some odd reason. I finally came to terms with the witch's dress by deciding that it was a sort of a dress-shaped shell, like an icy coating. liz young mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] finished sleaves
Absolutely gogeous, Bjarne! Yellow usually isn't a color I like, but in this case I'd make an exception. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
I have two forms, one is not at all my size (I wish!) but it's good enough to display gowns on. It's an antique style with the seperate plates. The other is modern foam with cotton cover. It's not exactly my size, but ti's closer than the other one- got it when a fabric store was closing for cheap. The antique form has my vamprie character, Sadie, on it right now. She's based on the 1880's 'late bustle' style, but with very little regard for period construction. She's all purple bridal satin with black trim and sequins. I made her to work Fright Fest at Six Flag's Great America a few years back and decided I really liked her so I trot her out periodically. I just wore her for the WindyCon masquerade competition and won 'Best in Show'.which makes me feel like I should be trotted around a ring on a leash and then rewarded with a doggie biscuitbut maybe not. Karen Seamstrix -- Alex Doyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My son has armor draped on it. I made a duct tape dummy lost weight and moved it to the garage. My son needed some place to hold his leather tunic with metal plates while he works on it, and look, there's a dummie in the garage, just for him, he thinks. alex Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: It's that time of year: holiday parties, winter balls, company dinners, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th Night, You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale. Whatever the reason, costumers are probably making something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something spiffy on the dummy and *then* tell us about it. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: Bronzino (was Re: [h-cost] knit jacket was Re: ModaaFirenze1540-15 80
When the Medici exhibit was in Chicago, the Art Institute hired several of us frm Bristol's Guilde of St. George to do Italian Renaissance Court dances (in full kit of course) as part of the entertaining for the gala opening. After our performances were done, we all got to go thru the exhibit- after the paying patrons but before most of the public. Of course we were all fascinated by the portrait of Elenora and her son and we were all clustered around it cooing and ahhing over all the details we could finally see. After a few minutes I noticed that the gallery was very quiet and I realized that all the patrons had moved back against the opposite wall and were standing there watching us with rapt attention. I also realized that we must have made just the most incredible picture ourselves- a group in full 16th century court dress, still partially in our characters, in the midst of all the 16th century objects. Wish I could have gotten video of it. Karen Seamstrix -- monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hmmm. Interesting! Thanks for the info on this, Kate. Don't feel odd about the inarticulate noises... When I saw Eleonora of Toledo's wedding portrait (The deep pink (crimson) gown) at the Philly art Museum, after an hour of staring at it, I was trying to figure out a way to take it home with me... :-) And then there was the time that my friend Anna and I ammost got tossed out of the Metropolitan Musueum of Art in NYC trying to see the back of the leather fencing doublet that is on permanent display. Not a problem you would think until you realize that it is displayed in a glass case against a wall on a form... Sigh! Why can't museum people learn to display clothing correctly so it can be seen all the way around? (At least pit a mirror in the back!) Dame Catriona MacDuff -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ailith Mackintosh Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 6:34 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: Bronzino (was Re: [h-cost] knit jacket was Re: ModaaFirenze1540-1580 I've seen the portrait!! It was the only reason that I made the 4 hour drive. What an adventure! We nearly got sucked up by a tornado. The car actually left the road for a brief period of time. Last year the Detroit Museum of Art was one of the stops in an exhibition featuring Medici art. She's nearly life-size and the bottom of the portrait was less than 2 feet off of the floor. I was on my knees in front of it making inarticulate sounds. The guards thought I'd lost my mind! ;-D It's a really odd combination. Her gown is black. The bodice is black and deep burgundy brocade; the upper sleeves and skirt are plain black. There's no trace of any kind of pattern in either the upper sleeves or the skirt. Her upper sleeves are ruched like those in the Panciatichi portrait. The lower sleeves are the same deep burgundy color as in the brocade of the bodice, though they are solid, not brocade. kate - Original Message - From: monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2005 11:58 AM Subject: RE: Bronzino (was Re: [h-cost] knit jacket was Re: Moda aFirenze1540-1580 The lower sleeves are deep maroon in most of the repros I have seen. It is funny that so many color reproductions vary in quality from place to place. Anybody ever see the real portrait up close and personal? And BTW, the lower sleeves (which tie into the armhole BTW, on the Lucrezia Panciatichi gown are eggplant purple (aubergine). Makes for the possibility of interesting color combos for costumers who do early 16th C. Florentine... Dame Catriona MacDuff ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Cranach dress
I'm doing some research on the german Cranach dress style. I would love to hear thoughts, ideas, websites etc. for a. Bodice: attached or not, b. is there a band of fabric from shoulder to shoulder at the back that is edited out of most paintings (But is often seen in the German housebook for example). c. closure in the side front? d. corset or no? Thanks Jean/Raella Only the mediocre are always at their best - Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] bodice design
I second the recommendation for the Simplicity Civil War patterns. I have found them to be pretty easy to follow with full-sized patterns that you don't need to scale up or down. Simplicity has a nice ballgown pattern as well as a couple that could be fancied up for use as party dresses. Happy sewing! Karen Penhalion -- Elizabeth Walpole [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: - Original Message - From: jessica lynn potter [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 9:54 AM Subject: Re: [h-cost] bodice design hi hun well i am reasonably good at needle craft, but have not ever made crinoline ballgowns before, this dress is an 1860s day type dress, ,i wantto make historic type dresses, but they do not have to be historically accurate down to fine detail,s, i want to make nice looking crinoline style dresses, especially the hugh type crinoline,s. bodice design is my failure i have never made more than 3 in my life except for modern bodices or blouses, and i have no idea as to a starting point. i thought of using the polyester taffetta fabric, for the dress itself im being a pain to you all with these question,s i know, sorry, but is there anywhere where i can get patterns for bodices or complete dresses please hugs jessica OK so I'm guessing you're actually interested in the early to mid 1860s as by the time you get to the end of the 1860s you're getting into the begining of the bustle era rather than big crinolines. You might be interested in Simplicity's range of 'civil war' patterns http://www.simplicity.com/index.cfm?cat=4type=19sec=0id=57startrow=1 they take a couple of modern shortcuts where it doesn't show (like using snaps to attach the collar instead of sewing it on and unpicking the stitches when you want to wash it) but the overall details are pretty accurate. HTH Elizabeth Elizabeth Walpole Canberra Australia ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au http://au.geocities.com/e_walpole/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Storm update
Oh Penny, I'm so sorry to hear how hard Katrina has hit your family! Don't worry about us, don't even worry about the Costume Library. Both the Library and H-costume will be here when you need us. Do what you need to do for yourself and your family. I can't speak for anybody else, but your family will be in my thoughts this evening and I will send all the good energy I can down to them from the other end of the Mighty Mississippi. Your friend in Chicago, Karen Seamstrix -- Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I had promised last week that we would have a free access to our Library at the beginning of this week. I am taking some days off this week and have to cancel the free access. A lot of people have written asking about the Library access. After you read the following I think you will understand why I am taking a few days off. Several of you know that I am from the Mississippi Gulf Coast . I was there for two family unions in July. I am from Biloxi/Ocean Springs area and my husband is from Gulfport. Both of us have very large extended families there. They live from Slidell, Louisiana to Mobile, Alabama. I have five siblings and my Mom, my husband have two siblings living on the Gulf Coast. Several of our family members have lost their homes, jobs, and businesses to the Hurricane. My husband's sister in Colorado Springs, my sister in Tampa, and I have been frantically trying to locate our families. Monday morning was the last we heard from those family members that didn't evacuate. Now they don't have phone are internet access. Even the ones who left on the Coast, their cell phones are not working because their area code is for the Gulf Coast. My husband's brother and sister, their spouses, and six children were in the same home, in North Gulfport. They were at the brother's home. The last time we spoke was Monday at 11:00 AM. Their electricity was out and we were talking by cell 15 mins. before the worse part of the hurricane. They didn't know the hurricane eye was heading for them until we called. The sister's home, (my husband's family home since 1920) was about five blocks from the beach in Gulfport. We don't know if the family home is still there, but from photos on TV, we don't have much hope. The home is near where you are seeing the news film where the Dole banana trailers for semi-trucks, Grand Casino, and downtown Gulfport. Lots of snippage ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Indian Fabric Source Was: German Headdress
Sheridan, Where would you find an Indian fabric store? I'm in Florida and I don't think we have any locally, is there a good site online? Thanks, Wendi Sheridan wrote: If you can get yourself to an Indian fabric store, the silk they use for Dupattas is about as close to the gauze you see in these paintings as you can modernly get. I have also seen silk with 'gold' very similar to some of the paintings you have on your site, and I had planned to use something like that for one of the more elaborate hats in future. Thanks for the info! Sheridan mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1540s French Hood Images
I think that it's a trick of perspective that makes people think that French Hoods stand up away from the head. I have made two French Hoods that actually lay down almost flat against my skull but that look tilted when I wear them. People don't realize that the skull actually slopes up from the forehead and so if you make something that lies flat to the head it will appear tilted when observed. I cringe every time I see one of the 'sun visor' French Hoods- I know that's what some people actually use for them because they have told me with great enthusiasm that they are the perfect shape and won't it be wonderful..that's when I just grit my teeth and nod politely. I remember seeing a nun one time with a head-dress that was a perfect French Hood and I wished that I had the nerve to ask her how her order (I have no idea which one) constructs the things and if the makings might be available to the public. Alas, I haven't seen one like it since (not that I've been prowling th! e convents and cathedrals looking) but if I do, I may just throw caution to the wind and ask. Byt he way, there's a sketch in one of Janet Arold's books (PoF or QEWUNLK'D) of a French woman from front and back and I believe she's wearing a French Hood..it's usually used to illustrate the farthingale that peaking out from under her hem or the way her bodice laces up the back. That might give you a back view to work from. Karen Seamstrix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] launching a new Am I Period or Not website (cross post)
snip I wish you luck with your new venture. However, the original website took a picture from my personal website without my permission - a fantasy costume and so specified - and made a critique as if it was an historical one. I do hope that this will not happen on your new version. Suzi I will do what I can to stop image theft but I don't have the resources to search the internet every time somebody submits a picture so, I'm going to work on a presumption of innocence until proven guilty. However I will keep a record of the name of the person who submits a photo and if somebody brings it to my attention I will ban any image thief from submitting more photos. Elizabeth Thank you for your reassurance. I think the premise behind the original one was - Take any image and do a critique which I think is questionable to say the least. If I want a critique of my work I am happy to submit it personally, but as a professional maker, I am bound by customer choice, so often it is not truly historical. Your new version sounds much more sensible and personal, and I hope it goes well. Suzi mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] launching a new Am I Period or Not website (cross post)
Hello everyone, many of you may remember the original Am I Period or Not website run by Kirrily Roberts, well now myself and a team of assistants are reviving the idea at http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/ If you aren't familiar with the concept here's a brief summary: People send in photos of the historical costumes they've made, the photos are loaded onto a website where people can view them, vote on how period accurate they are and leave comments. This new Am I Period Or Not website covers the fashions of any era you like, from the first civilisations to the day before yesterday. Right now the website is in it's infancy there are 5 16th century outfits but we're happy to expand (right now there are a lot of empty albums). So if you're interested in seeing other people's work or you want to see your own work critiqued (though be warned, not everyone on the internet is polite so if you're sensitive about your work you might want to re-think sending it in) come along and have a look. Fell free to pass this message on, but be warned geocities doesn't deal well with floods of people viewing the site all at once, and you may get an error message if a lot of people all turn up at once. enjoy, I wish you luck with your new venture. However, the original website took a picture from my personal website without my permission - a fantasy costume and so specified - and made a critique as if it was an historical one. I do hope that this will not happen on your new version. Suzi mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
At 07:14 AM 7/14/2005, you wrote: And where on earth would one find the jewellery? There is a company in England that makes pewter replicas of Tudor jewelry (and other jewelry things, spoons, collars, etc.), and he notes that he makes custom pieces as well. http://www.tudorjewels.com/ (for the historical images) http://www.pewterreplicas.com/ (to order the same) Be aware that Steve Millingham's pieces are very, very heavy, being pewter castings. I have worked with his jewellery, and in fact some of his Anne Boleyn and Henry Vlll pieces were originally designed for a customer of mine. You could also try http://www.anniethepedlar.com, who made all the pieces for my Elizabeth figure. She works in brass, and will custom make. I would always use her pieces as a first choice. Suzi www.suziclarke.co.uk mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
Kimiko wrote: I also need ouches or something similar for the hats I am working on OK, I'll bite- what are ouches? -Helen/Aidan That's what the creator (Steve Millingham) of the jewelry replicas calls dress jewels (ouches) . I am not sure why he calls them that, as in I haven't seen a source for the name other than at his site. http://www.tudorjewels.com/princess%20elizabeth.htm First jewelry pic you come across. It's what I want for the jewelry I am looking to get. Steve Millingham got the word from my customer who got it from me, who got it from Annie the Pedlar who did the research for my Elizabeth figure. I imagine she has sources for it, as she did a great deal of research before making the jewellery for me. Suzi mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] elizabethan dress trim question
The wise acre answer to that is, how much can you afford? For my Elizabethans I have stopped buying trim in anything less than 10 yard batches and prefer to buy the trim in 20 to 30 yard lengths. As the portrait doesn't show what is happening at the hem (do I count as a true 16th century costuming geek since I knew who the subject of the portrait was immediately?) you will have to guess based on other Spanish potraits of the time and extrapolate. Since this is a Royal portrait, I tend to think tha the trim was used pretty extravagantly. Good luck on the jewelry! Karen Seamstrix -- Garden [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, I'm feeling lazy, don't feel like getting out the tape measure, its 12:12am here in Australia - maybe one of you on the list has this info in your head - please don't go to any lengths - otherwise I should be the one doing the work grin - but approx. how much length of trim do you think I should get for a reproduction of this dress at http://www.earthlydelights.com.au/Images/colourpics/8486.jpg ? And do you think the same trim is used throughout the whole dress, or maybe the tabs at the waist and shoulders are simply edged with gold? And where on earth would one find the jewellery? (or the money to get it :((! ) I've already purchased the cotton velvet and am presently making the undergarments. Regards, Aylwen Garden ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] rayon velvet any use?
A friend is offering me 8m (the 8m is based on her recollection, we haven't actually measured it) of Rayon velvet as a gift, or otherwise it's going to charity, it's a nice dark tan colour but I'm a little concerned by how shiny it is would that change when I washed it? (I have never worked with Rayon Velvet as you don't see it in the shops here mostly it's poly/acetate deep pile velvet or cotton velveteen) So, in short would it be worth my while to take it? or would it be better off going to charity where somebody else will make something modern from it? Also if I were to take it what sort of era would suit 8m of Rayon velvet? I'm primarily interested in Tudor (my first thought was something like http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Mary5.jpg or a loose gown like this http://www.tudorplace.com.ar/images/Mary09.jpg) but I'm also open to Elizabethan, 18th or 19th century ideas (there's nothing preventing me from doing 17th century except that I haven't yet come across a 17th century fashion that really grabs me and says wear me!) I have used rayon velvet for Tudor with no problems - you just need to pin it and pin it and pin it. Why do you want to wash it? I never, ever wash velvet, (of any kind) and the suppliers here in England are horrifeid at the thought. I don't see the point of buying a fabric for its look and feel, then washing it to change that. Suzi in London mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ . ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
