KR> VW mount evolution

[Dave_A]

You lose the easier starter-mount & accessory-case-integrated 
alternator, if you do the 'direct to firewall' thing

On 2/2/2015 11:21 AM, Chris Prata via KRnet wrote:
> I wonder if the newer, larger engines (and a battery on the firewall) would 
> solve this and *particularly* if there is any other problem with using the 
> original mount method, other than balancing the CG?
> I like the look of the shorter nose.
>
>
>> From: ejanssen at ctiwireless.com
>> To: chrisprata at live.com
>> Subject: Re: KR> VW mount evolution
>> Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2015 08:59:08 -0600
>>
>> The original KR-1 tended to be tail heavy, especially when the gear was
>> retracted, so, later, most builders after that went with a built up motor
>> mount.  It also gave more room for a starter and working on the rear mounted
>> Slick magneto.
>>
>   
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KR> Reduce stick pitch sensitivity

[Dave_A]

I think the pitch sensitivity is more a function of the design - 
specifically the elevator:horiz-stab surface area ratio...



On 2/4/2015 10:17 PM, Chris Prata via KRnet wrote:
> I see this comment a lot. Is there a way KR builders reduce that pitch 
> sensitivity by bringing the cable attach points on the stick 30% closer 
> together or something?
>
>> My first landing ended up with a bent nose gear. My second takeoff had PIO
>> that was very uncomfortable.
>   
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KR> aerolnjector

[Dave_A]

They make them in sizes all the way up to an MA4SPA (O-320) equivalent - 
or at least did back when they called it 'Aerocarb'...

Folks seem to think that the Ellison products are the 'best' in this 
realm, the POSA is the worst, and Aerovee's come in 'better than a POSA, 
worse than an Ellison or Revmaster'



On 2/3/2015 1:13 PM, John Edwards via KRnet wrote:
> On 2/3/2015 7:26 AM, Lawrence Bell via KRnet wrote:
>> Robert,
>>   I don't know if an Aerocarb works on an 0-200, but I have one 
>> for a VW
>> and after seeing a Revmaster carb at the KR gathering I wish I had gone
>> with them. You can probably call them and they should know if it would
>> work, seemed like nice people.
>> Larry Bell
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 2, 2015 at 4:11 PM, Robert Pesak via KRnet 
>> >> wrote:
>>> Hi everyone,
>>>   Has anyone out there ever used any one of the aerocarb products on a
>>> 0-200? I don't know long this Aerolnjector carberator system has 
>>> been out.
>>> If there is please let me know. I 'm thinking about contacting the 
>>> company
>>> but didn't know if I was wasting my time.
>>>
>>> http://s449.photobucket.com/user/rkpsk1/library/
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>>
>>
> You are correct in your assumption about revmaster vs aerocarb!  I 
> spent many hours with the aerocarb on my 1835/kr1 trying in vain to 
> tune it!  Me and my A&P mechanic friend finally gave up and switched 
> to the rev-flo and it worked much better, but still not statisfactory 
> with uneven fuel distribution. Finally taking a clue from Mark 
> Langford and installed a homemade device in the intake manifold to 
> help atomise the fuel to the cyclinders.
> If both manufacturers were honest, they would simply call then what 
> they are...Dribbler Carbs
> IMHOP
>
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KR> VW mount evolution

[Dave_A]

The current accessory case uses a traditional conical-mount layout, and 
thus works with a standard aircraft-style engine mount. I believe it is 
bolt-pattern-compatible with the O-200 & smaller Continentals...

On 2/2/2015 6:04 AM, Virgil N.Salisbury via KRnet wrote:
> On 2/2/2015 5:24 AM, Chris Prata via KRnet wrote:
>> In the old KR1 cutaway, it seems to show channel iron with rubber 
>> mounts against the firewall, and the back of the VW is mounted to 
>> that. Now it seems more traditional mounts are in use. I vaguely 
>> recall from 25 years ago reading that there was a reason for getting 
>> off that, but I don't recall what it is.
>> Anyone have any info on that?
>>
>>
> It was Aluminum channel and put things too close to the firewall, 
> Virg
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KR> Tri-Gear Retracts?

[Dave_A]

The original KR landing gear system was a main-gear retracting taildragger.

I've actually got a full set of it lying around in my hangar, as when I 
bought my project it had the original gear (and I wanted a fixed-tri)...

On 1/25/2015 9:56 AM, bjoenunley via KRnet wrote:
> These guys have excellent advice and experience.
>
> In regards to your retractable nose gear; how about a tail dragger 
> configuration?   Eliminate the weight and complexity while maintaining 
> aerodynamic efficiency. If you are not familiar with tail wheel configured 
> aircraft they are not too scary when you get used to them.
>
> Joe Nunley
> Baker Florida
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
>
>  Original message From: Chris Prata via KRnet 
>  Date:01/25/2015  2:01 AM  (GMT-06:00) 
> To: krnet at list.krnet.org Subject: KR> Tri-Gear 
> Retracts? 
> Hey All,
> I have been pondering the possibility of tri-gear retracts on a KR1. (This is 
> experimental aviation after all!).
> First, before I search the archives, has this been done?
> If not, I'm assuming that since fixed tri-gear KR's exist (which is probably 
> what I'll end up doing!), the rear spar is strong enough to attach main gear 
> to. I am thinking that the gear can simply retract forward, reverse of what 
> the original KR had.  I *think* the main gear is not going to be a problem at 
> all.
> That leaves the nose wheel. I have a couple ideas. One is to establish a 
> straight pipe which goes up and back at an angle through the strong firewall, 
> with the castering nosewheel leg sliding into and out of that. Not sure how 
> to actuate that without too much weight, a big screw actuator? Pneumatic? 
> Since that pipe will be coming up through between the rudder pedals, perhaps 
> some kind of a slot and a lever? The wheel could be pulled straight back up 
> into a well beneath the back part of the cowling. It wouldnt have to go all 
> the way in, 1/3 of the tire could still be showing.
> The other method would be a swing back, or swing forward arrangement.
> This is a light plane and the nose carries the least weight. Although it will 
> slam down a bit on landing.
> Any info or ideas appreciated.
>
> -C
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KR> Float valves

[Dave_A]

Depends on the design of the carb.

Some of the more popular KR carbs don't have floats (Aerocarb, Revflow, 
Ellison, Posa)... These either have a vacuum-triggered fuel valve, or 
will leak your gas out if you don't switch off the fuel.

The old 'tractor carb' (Marvel Strombreg) sitting under most Lycomings 
(and thus in most certified aircraft) does have a float that 
theoretically could stick.

It's a possible problem on any gravity-fed fuel system.

What planes generally do NOT have, that some bikes do, is a 
vacuum-operated fuel petcock (which, on older bikes, could be a problem 
if said vacuum-valve failed in the open position, as there was no way to 
manually shut off the fuel).

In any case, the solution is simple for either vehicle: When not flying, 
turn off the gas.

Also, CHANGE THE OIL IN THAT BIKE! If 'all the fuel drained out' then 
there is likely fuel contamination in your oil, which can wreck your 
engine by thinning the oil so much it won't lubricate.

On 1/24/2015 9:10 PM, Garry C via KRnet wrote:
> Riding my motorcycle down the highway and the carb float valve stuck and all 
> the gas ran out.  Does this happen in airplane carbs?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
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KR> Gear Leg Replacement Progress

[Dave_A]

How did you align the wheels? Was there any sort of fixture you used?

I am going through something similar

On 10/29/2014 10:45 AM, Sid Wood via KRnet wrote:
> This past weekend I set the 0-degree toe for my main wheels, clamping 
> firmly with 4 C-clamps on each wheel bracket. That exercise only took 
> 4 hours. Removed the gear legs and matched drilled through the 
> original wheel brackets as Larry had advised; used a drill press for 
> that operation. Yesterday I applied 2 BID fiberglass per the Diehl 
> instructions.  (I suppose Dan Diehl may want to distance himself 
> somewhat from my latest gear leg creation.)  Used several plastic soda 
> straws for conduits for the hydraulic brake lines.  Today put on some 
> micro anticipating finishing and painting.
> Got the back-ordered brake bleeder valves from ACS; will replace the 
> scuffed bleeders while waiting for the epoxy to cure.
> Yes, the brake slave cylinders will bleed more easily if the bleeder 
> valve is at the low point, but being down low will subject them to 
> more runway pavement abuse.
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>
>
>
>
>
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KR> Resin Scales

[Dave_A]

A digital scale is better than a balance.

You can get a good one from WalMart for $15-20...



On 10/24/2014 6:21 PM, Karl via KRnet wrote:
> Hi All
>
> Can someone point me in the direction of some balance beam type scales for
> weighing out the epoxy in the correct proportions (5:1).
>
> Thanks
>
> Karl
>
>
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KR> FW: Landing gear parts

[Dave_A]

If you don't already have a deal set up, here's what I would be 
interested in:

I have a set of tail-dragger gear legs, that I bought used off this 
list, intending to modify them to work as trike legs.

If you (Louis) want to buy the offered gear set & ship me the trike-gear 
legs that it includes, I will ship you my tail dragger gear legs

That seems to be the easiest way to do this.

On 10/15/2014 10:35 AM, louis lanie via KRnet wrote:
> What kind of gear do you have for sale then Diehl tail dragger main gear?
> I am interested in those
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Oct 15, 2014, at 11:39 AM, Howie Shank via KRnet > list.krnet.org> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I want it . Sold mine . I will sell my tale drager set for the same
>>
>> --
>>> On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 9:22 AM PDT Brad Ankerstar via KRnet wrote:
>>>
>>> $500 will buy the entire gear set.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> -Original Message-
>>>> From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Dave_A
>>>> via KRnet
>>>> Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2014 9:57 AM
>>>> To: louis lanie; KRnet
>>>> Subject: Re: KR> FW: Landing gear parts
>>>>
>>>> Perhaps someone who needs trike gear and has tailwheel gear might buy
>>>> his legs & sell you theirs...
>>>>
>>>> Depending on his price, I'd be interested (I have tailwheel gear but am
>>>> doing a trike gear bird)...
>>>>
>>>>> On 10/13/2014 6:35 PM, louis lanie via KRnet wrote:
>>>>> Would the main gear legs work for a tail wheel configuration what
>>>> kind
>>>>> of price would you want
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>>
>>>>>> On Oct 13, 2014, at 8:10 PM, Brad Ankerstar via KRnet
>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> As some of you know, I have tried to part out N774A since it was
>>>>> destroyed a couple years ago.  I'm going to load it all in a moving
>>>>> van next Saturday to our new home in Georgetown Texas.  If anyone is
>>>>> interested in a complete Diehl, tri gear set, from the spar, and
>>>>> firewall, to the ground, I think a deal could be made.  The nose
>>>> gear was damaged in the "very hard landing".
>>>>> The strut was broken and the firewall bracket was bent.  I'm pretty
>>>>> sure a decent welder can repair the bracket but of course, the strut
>>>>> needs to be replaced.  The gear is complete with wheels, tires,
>>>>> tubes, axles, hydraulic disk brakes and master cylinders (Great
>>>>> Plaines).  I'm looking for something well below half of retail.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Brad Ankerstar
>>>>>
>>>>> SW Ohio
>>>>>
>>>>> Cell 513 313-9265
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> ___
>>>>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-
>>>> kr/search.
>>>>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to
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>>>>> http://www.krnet.org/info.html see
>>>>> http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to
>>>> change
>>>>> options
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>>>> kr/search.
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>>>>> options
>>>>
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>>>
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>>
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KR> FW: Landing gear parts

[Dave_A]

Perhaps someone who needs trike gear and has tailwheel gear might buy 
his legs & sell you theirs...

Depending on his price, I'd be interested (I have tailwheel gear but am 
doing a trike gear bird)...

On 10/13/2014 6:35 PM, louis lanie via KRnet wrote:
> Would the main gear legs work for a tail wheel configuration what kind of 
> price would you want
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Oct 13, 2014, at 8:10 PM, Brad Ankerstar via KRnet > list.krnet.org> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> As some of you know, I have tried to part out N774A since it was destroyed a
>> couple years ago.  I'm going to load it all in a moving van next Saturday to
>> our new home in Georgetown Texas.  If anyone is interested in a complete
>> Diehl, tri gear set, from the spar, and firewall, to the ground, I think a
>> deal could be made.  The nose gear was damaged in the "very hard landing".
>> The strut was broken and the firewall bracket was bent.  I'm pretty sure a
>> decent welder can repair the bracket but of course, the strut needs to be
>> replaced.  The gear is complete with wheels, tires, tubes, axles, hydraulic
>> disk brakes and master cylinders (Great Plaines).  I'm looking for something
>> well below half of retail.
>>
>>
>>
>> Brad Ankerstar
>>
>> SW Ohio
>>
>> Cell 513 313-9265
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>> 
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KR> Main gear locations/Tail to nosewheel with diehl gear

[Dave_A]

I've done this for different reasons - I bought a set of diehl mains 
used from someone on this site, and they were taildragger legs, but I'm 
doing a tri-gear plane.

I put the gear on the back of the spar, but I am now grappling with the 
tire-alignment issue

The gear I got was pre-drilled, and the result is that my wheels do not 
line up right

Considering either re-drilling, or ordering new fiberglass legs... I 
don't know if the additional 4 holes in the bottom of the existing legs 
will weaken them/etc...

On 8/20/2014 11:40 AM, Sid Wood via KRnet wrote:
> Now we are getting somewhere.  After reading Larry's message regarding 
> gear location, I took a long hard look at the gear location and Diehl 
> gear leg attachment at the main spar.  The axles are at 4-1/4 inches 
> from the aft face of the main spar on my KR-2.  Compare that to 7 
> inches for Joe Horton. Turns out the fiberglass gear leg on both legs 
> at the spar end have two cut angles.  One side has a greater cut angle 
> than the other side.  I chose the smaller taper to put against the 
> mounting bracket and that resulted in putting the gear 3 inches to far 
> forward.
> My plan is to swap the left and right gear legs and flip them to get 
> the wheel alignment back to 0 toe in.  Hopefully the bolt holes will 
> line up. That also means cutting into the fiber glass on the bottom of 
> the wing to get access.  If the bolt holes don't line up or cannot get 
> the required wheel location, then will have to get a new set of gear 
> legs and try again. If there is a way to screw it up, I have every 
> confidence I can figure out how to make it happen.
>
> LESSON LEARNED: For tri-gear, the axles should be 20 inches from the 
> leading edge of the stub wing on the RAF airfoil or 7 inches from the 
> aft face of the main spar.
>
> Sid Wood
> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
> 
>  
>
>>
>> Sid has his main axle distance 17" aft of the stub wing leading edge,
>
> What Joe Horton wrote is that his axle center line is 7" behind the 
> AFT face or back side of his main carry through spar. Not the forward 
> face of the main spar. There is about a 2 1/2" difference in placement 
> of the axle center line if you measure from the forward face of the spar.
>
> What Joe Horton said is absolutely correct. Everyone's main carry 
> through spar should be in exactly the same place. Don't measure off 
> the leading edge of the wing, measure off of the main carry through 
> spar. This is not Rocket Science!  Dan Diehls landing gear and 
> brackets leave no room for error if you follow his instructions. If 
> you want a tricycle set up bolt the Diehl Main Gear brackets on the 
> aft side / back side of the main carry through spar. If you want a 
> tail dragger then place the Diehl brackets on the front side of the 
> spar. Then drill and bolt the fiberglass leg to this bracket by 
> placing the cut angle on the top forward side of the leg against the 
> bracket. If you push the leading edge of the glass leg fully flush 
> against the rear face of the shear web on the Diehl bracket for a 
> tricycle gear it places your axle center line in the proper place. In 
> Joes case his axle center line is 7" behind or from the back side of 
> the main carry through spar. If you decide to ge!
> t creative on your own by not placing the cut angle fully against the 
> aft face of the shear web then you will run into problems.
>
> Larry Howell
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
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KR> Starter - Important note....

[Dave_A]

There are 2 versions of the Diehl case out there

The older one does NOT use a Subaru auto starter, but rather as Rotax 
2-stroke (Skidoo/Seadoo) starter...

On 6/30/2014 6:00 PM, Clayton via KRnet wrote:
> Thank you all for the input.
> I did not get an answer at Diehl.
> James, you are correct. It is a 1992 Subaru Legacy non turbo automatic
> starter.
> It sure is nice to hear that engine run again, it has been quite some time.
> Clayton
>
> -Original Message-
> From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of James 
> Babcock
> via KRnet
> Sent: Monday, June 30, 2014 12:37 PM
> To: smwood; KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR> Starter
>
> Call Dan Diehl. If I recall, it was a Subaru part.
>
>
>
>
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KR> How do you test a transponder?

[Dave_A]

'Hooking it up to a battery' without an antenna connected can damage it.


On 6/2/2014 10:25 PM, Mike T via KRnet wrote:
> I'll need a Mode C transponder in my plane, and one I wanted is for sale
> used at a decent price from Aircraft Spruce.  If I wind up getting it, I
> could hook it up to a battery and see that the lights go on, etc., but how
> would you actually test a transponder (or any used instrument, really),
> without having a flying airplane to put it in?
>
>
> Mike Taglieri
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KR> Substitute small auxiliary 500 watt generator for engine generator?

[Dave_A]

1) Those little gennies are usually 2-stroke and run on oilgas mix.

2) There's no way to properly seal it off so that no carbon 
monoxide/exhaust leaks back into the cabin... IF there is an opening for 
the pull cord their is an opening for the exhaust


On 3/14/2014 3:10 AM, James Dunn wrote:
> What do you think?
>
> For the KR, it seems that removing the alternator and related pulley from my 
> VW Type 4 has the potential of decreasing the side loading on the engine, and 
> decreasing parasitic loads on the engine so that more power goes to the 
> propeller.
>
> A small rip-cord 500 watt generator will run up to 8 hours on a half gallon 
> of fuel.  But with the normal loads, the motorcycle battery will support 
> electrical loads a couple of hours at a time.  So starting and stopping the 
> small generator would provide recharging on an as-needed basis.  A simple 
> voltage alarm can be used to advise pilot of need to recharge the avionics 
> batteries.
>
> During day VFR, most likely the alarm would never be triggered; i.e. battery 
> trickle charger keeping battery topped off in the hanger.
>
> Gas from the main tank would be used to run the generator.  Exhausting would 
> be no different than the main engine.
>
> Looking at the space available, the generator I'm looking at will fit in the 
> same space that the retract gear would fit in; I have fixed gear.  And leave 
> a lot of extra room.  The space with a bit of fiberglass can be made 
> completely separate from main cabin; with an open to air flow gap between the 
> cabin and generator where the pull cord and controls run through, in case 
> there is a head gasket leak (carbon monoxide).  Same issue with main engine 
> and one reason for firewall.
>
> The 110V outlet feeding a battery charger provides about 30 amps of charging, 
> capacity.  But for a motorcycle battery it will only take a maximum of about 
> 10 amps, plus about 5 amps for efis and ems system batteries.  So there is 
> still a surplus of power available for other loads.
>
> Because the generator without shrouding (substituting small NACA vent and 
> aluminum baffling), is very small, it can be put anywhere that is CG 
> beneficial.
>
> A pulley system bringing the pull cord under the center between pilot and 
> passenger allows for a bi-cep pull so the leverage is favorable without 
> having to do any unusual positioning.  A 500 watt generator is very easy to 
> start.
>
> I'm looking at the Honda generator because it runs with virtually no 
> vibration.
>
>
> What are things I'm not thinking of?
>
>
>
>
>   
> -- 
>
> James Dunn
> ___
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KR> Help...techno. illiterate

[Dave_A]

I've seen an android phone used as a serial port GPS to provide 
coordinates for a PC...

It does work...



On 3/10/2014 9:55 AM, Charter wrote:
> On android tablet, go to settings and turn on "enable mock locations" avare 
> should then work.  If you do not have built in gps ("location services" is 
> typically cell tower, not true gps) you will have to get a Bluetooth GPS and 
> pair it with the tablet, also install Bluetooth GPS app.  I bought my GPS 
> receiver from amazon for about 25.00. Someone told me you could use an old 
> android phone with built in gps and pair to tablet.  Running mine on a kindle 
> fire, but it had to be "rooted" in order to turn on mock locations, that 
> created other issues like transferring music and pic files from PC to tablet. 
>   Hope this helps
>
> Riley Collins
> Rutledge TN
> N25746
> N7471V
> N235KR reserved
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>> On Mar 10, 2014, at 12:07 PM, Phillip Hill  wrote:
>>
>> Unfortunately not all tablets have an actual GPS chipset in them.  In these
>> cases the "location services" are provided by what cell tower they are
>> connected to.  You really have to look at the specs an these tablets to
>> make sure they have REAL GPS on them.  I know the ASUS tablets have GPS on
>> them.  There are others, some of the Nexus and Samsung tablets do.  Not
>> sure about the thousands of others out there.
>>
>>
>>> On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 8:36 AM, jon kimmel  wrote:
>>>
>>> I kave the nexus 7...had to figure it out but i don't remember off the top
>>> of my head...try settings then turn on gps.
>>>
>>> https://sites.google.com/site/mykr2stretch/
>>> https://sites.google.com/site/mykr2stretch/parts-for-sale
 On Mar 10, 2014 8:21 AM, "Doran Jaffas"  wrote:

 Hello Everyone
   I recently purchased a Google Next book and was told it has
 navigation capability. The store does not seem to know how to turn on the
 "navigation" mode.  I subscribe to a mobile hotspot from straight talk'
>>> my
 location services are on as well but when I go to the maps section of
 fltplan it comes up " no GPS signal".
  I bought a Google android tablet as well. Same story on both. I also
 installed the " avaero"  program and again " no joy" . They both work on
>>> my
 Straight Talk phone.
   Do I need to buy an external GPS for the tablet?
I figured SOMEONE ON THIS SITE WILL KNOWPLEASE

   Technology stupid,
 Doran
 N186RC
 ___
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KR> Ready call it quits with apps

[Dave_A]

Acer's Transformer Pad tablets had a real GPS (even in the wifi 
versions)... The 'MeMo Pad' ones do NOT have a GPS.



On 3/10/2014 9:21 PM, Tony King wrote:
> Watch out for iPads too.  The WiFi only models don't have a GPS chipset -
> only the cellular models support GPS.  The GPS will work without a SIM
> card, so the tablet doesn't have to be on a carrier plan, but the GPS
> chipset has to be there.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tony
>
> On 11 March 2014 14:16, Michael Lineback  wrote:
>
>> Location Services is just Cell tower location it is not GPS.If you want
>> GPS on a tablet you have to find one with an internal GPS receiver or get
>> an external GPS receiver that connects bluetooth with your tablet. Ipad
>> and some Android tablets have aGPS or assisted GPS which means that they
>> have an internal antenna for GPS but use cell tower information to get a
>> first fix so they don't spend so much time getting a fix from a good
>> signal.
>>
>> Everything I can find on the tablet you mention says NOTHING about an
>> internal GPS antenna.  If you relay want GPS in the tablet then go for
>> the Google Nexus, Ipad, Lenovo Yoga or something similar. Those
>> specifically mention GPS Antenna.Beyond that if you really want to keep
>> the tablet you have then you will have to get an external antenna with
>> Bluetooth to connect to the tablet you have.
>>
>> HTH,
>>
>> Michael
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 6:53 PM, Doran Jaffas  wrote:
>>
>>> Hi everybody, I'm giving this one last ditch effort for some helpI'm
>> going
>>> to take these tablets back and say the. With it.
>>>   I have a Google premier 8 inch tablet. I can use Google Maps with
>> this
>>> tablet but when I attempt to use the Avare Aviation moving map it comes
>> up
>>> no GPS signal. I also tried installing a difference aviation program and
>>> got the same thing. My location services are on and as I said the Google
>>> Maps works. Does anybody know if the tablet needs an external GPS
>> receiver
>>> device plugged into it?
>>>   I assumed from the discussions I read on this website it was going
>> to
>>> act just like it does on my phone on which the site works great. But I
>> have
>>> literally spent hours trying to figure this out the last few days and
>>> really need some advice or the heck with it and I'll just wait to come up
>>> with the money to buy Aviation GPS seems like such a shame because of
>> work
>>> so well on my phone but I need a bigger screen so I purchased the tablets
>>> and I can't get it to work out now. Like most people out there I do not
>>> like throwing money away. Thank you for the rant is anybody has any
>> really
>>> buy some this I would really appreciate it!
>>> Doran
>>> N186RC
>>> ___
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KR> New wing skin idea - Fuel

[Dave_A]

One idea that occurred to me, was that a sufficiently large-diameter PVC 
pipe, properly sealed & run through the space between the leading edge 
and the front spar would make an ideal fuel tank... However, since I got 
my KR project with the wings prebuilt and a large header tank in place, 
I'm going with that for now...

On 2/15/2014 6:27 AM, joemalsack at charter.net wrote:
> Larry
> How long is the fuel tank to get 12.5 gals. I was calculating mine in 
> the same location and found 48 inches long and 10 inches wide would 
> give me 12 gals.
> Joe
>
>
> On Fri, Feb 14, 2014 at 7:08 PM, Larry&Sallie Flesner wrote:
>
>> At 01:41 PM 2/14/2014, you wrote:
>>> I might not make the
>>> tanks the full span between the spars but I would like to keep them 
>>> full
>>> span for the stiffness it will give the wing being bonded to both 
>>> the top
>>> and bottom skins.
>>> Dene Collett
>> +
>>
>> A long slender tank from root to tip, located immediately behind the 
>> forward spar helps to keep the CG shift to a minimum from full to 
>> empty on fuel.  My tanks are just 10 inches front to rear behind the 
>> spar, full length of the outer wing panel and hold 12.5 gallon per 
>> wing.  The CG shifts forward 1 inch from 25 gallon to empty.  My 
>> tanks, while not connected from spar to spar, still add torsional 
>> stiffness to the wing, which, when built to plans, is already stiff 
>> enough.
>>
>> Larry Flesner
>>
>>
>> ___
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KR> LSA null and void?

[Dave_A]

No.

It's still cheaper to get a 'Sport Pilot' license (less hours required) 
than a full Private, but more versatile than the old 'Recreational 
Pilot' that almost no one got because you couldn't do anything but 
circle your home airport...

On 12/16/2013 6:55 PM, Tinyauto at aol.com wrote:
> IF the introduced legislation for your 3rd class medical can be your
> drivers license for aircraft up to 250 knots and 6000 lb gross weight goes
> through, don't that make all this talk about LSA null and void?
>   
>   
> http://www.aopa.org/News-and-Video/All-News/2013/December/11/new-bill-would-expand-drivers-license-medical.aspx?CMP=ADV:1
>   
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Kevin Golden
> Harrisonville, MO
>   
>   
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KR> W&B apps

[Dave_A]

And if you would rather use a PC than a phone there is always 
winn-balance (www.winnmicro.com/wab/)

On 11/2/2013 6:16 AM, Larry&Sallie Flesner wrote:
>
>
>
>
> From AOPA
> Thought some might be interested
> Larry Flesner
> ++
>
> Weighing in on weight-and-balance apps
>
> October 28, 2013
>
> By Ben?t J. Wilson
>
> Weight-and-balance apps seem to be very popular with pilots. The last 
> time I did a column on them 
> June
>  
> 6, I received a flood of others they say I missed. So here are five 
> more recommended by members. These are not endorsements of any app.
>
> FlightScale ($3.99  in 
> iTunes 
> and $1.99 in 
> Google
>  
> Play)?This tablet app allows users to add aircraft data, including the 
> envelope limits, and see the weight and center of gravity plot on a 
> live graph. The app includes three different templates that allow 
> users to enter data for analysis.
>
> EZ Load ($3.99 in 
> iTunes)?This 
> iPhone/iPad app was designed for users of smaller general aviation 
> aircraft to do accurate checks of weight and balance. Users enter the 
> necessary information for each aircraft type and the app provides four 
> primary and one auxiliary view: list, main, graph, description, and info.
>
> Avilution Weight and Balance ($4.95  in 
> Google 
> Play)?This smartphone app can compute aircraft weight, balance, mean 
> aerodynamic chord, and center of gravity. The weight/balance range 
> information is shown on a chart.
>
> Aircraft Weight and Balance ($9.99 in 
> Google
>  
> Play)?This smartphone app is preloaded with the Cessna 152, Cessna 
> 172, and Piper Cherokee, but you can add and remove aircraft as 
> needed. Features include ability to enter fuel by weight instead of 
> volume, compute weight shift/ballast suggestions when needed, and 
> share reports via email or save to an SD card.
>
> NextGen Systems Weight & Balance (free in 
> iTunes)?This 
> iPhone app allows users to customize the parameters of almost 
> everything and include all of their airplanes under a single program. 
> Features include building an airplane (this will cover more than 80 
> percent of the general aviation fleet), creating a load sheet with 
> graph, and offering in-app tech support and tutorials. While the app 
> is free, users must pay between $3.99 and $4.99 for each aircraft type.
>
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KR> Water Based Paint

[Dave_A]

Water based paint = a big mess... House paint in perticular...

It's not flexible enough to actually adhere without cracking/peeling...

Prior owner of my project used the stuff UGH!

On 9/11/2013 7:32 PM, Lee Van Dyke wrote:
> I'm working on I lancair 360 that has water-based paint on the underside. 
> This is the second Lancair that decided to land with the gear up.  The 
> problem I see with the water-based paint is the preped surface was too 
> smooth.  I would start the first Coat with nothing more that 220 grit.  With 
> the final coat nothing more than 400 grit.  This planes prep surface was so 
> smooth I was able to pull off big sheets of paint.
>
> Lee Van Dyke
>
> On Sep 11, 2013, at 11:24 AM, "Sid Wood"  wrote:
>
>> I used Acrylic Latex exterior house paint.  Lowe's sells it for $26/gal.  I 
>> sprayed with a conventional qt. cup gun also from Lowe's using my 1/3 hp air 
>> compressor with inline pressure regulator set for 30 psi and an oil 
>> separator.  I used 3 coats primer and 3 coats top coat semi-gloss.  Light 
>> hand wet sanding between each primer coat with 400 grit; each top coat wet 
>> hand sanded with 600 grit.  Sprayed two coats gloss, no sanding.  Gloss goes 
>> on like water, so have to drop the air pressure to 10 psi and move the gun 
>> fast or it will run.  Perhaps should have used a smaller jet for the gun for 
>> the gloss coats.  For the top color coats I had Lowe's tint the white paint 
>> with more white pigment; that makes the paint noticeably even whiter.  Flag 
>> bunting trim is vinyl stick-on decals made by a local sign shop.  The 
>> fuselage decals are 10 feet long.  Costs were $142 for paint and related 
>> supplies and $168 for the vinyl decals.
>>
>> Sid Wood
>> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
>> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>>
>>
>> --
>> Robert
>> What manufacturers  water based paint and primer are you using?  Satin or
>> gloss?? Will there be a top coat of clear, also water born? Are you using
>> HVLP spray equipment?
>> Patrick
>>
>>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> I was hoping to have my KR for this years gathering, but it's not in in the
>> great scheme of things. I am making good progress. It took me some time to
>> warm up to waterborne paint but after using the primer I'm convinced that
>> it's a great product, and it doesn't have all the nasty smells.
>> See you at the gathering!
>>
>> http://s449.photobucket.com/user/rkpsk1/library/
>>
>> Robert Pesak
>>
>> Hermitage, Tn.
>> ___
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
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KR> ethanol-free fuel link

[Dave_A]

Pure gasoline should be good with glass & plastic tanks...

Ethanol degrades certain rubber-ish compounds & the interior of some 
varieties of fuel-lines... The 'mush-ifying' of fuel-tanks has been a 
problem for fiberglass boats, too...

So even without glass tanks... 'Keep the booze in your glass & out of 
your gas'...

Fortunately, my airfield has pure gasoline on-field

On 8/3/2013 8:37 PM, Jeff Scott wrote:
> This last winter the cost of 100LL finally hit my pain threshhold when I 
> realized I had burned $7000 in 100LL during 2012.  With a $2 per gallon 
> difference, burning Mogas will make a significant impact over the course of a 
> year.  In February I dragged my old 100 gallon tank out of storage, serviced 
> the electric pump, replaced the filters and hoses, then put it back to use 
> hauling mogas.  The only alcohol free Mogas in our area is 90 octane AKI and 
> is 35 miles away.
>
> I have been running a mixture of 80% 90 AKI Mogas and 20% 100LL in both 
> planes.  The O-200 in the KR and the O-320 in the SuperCub are both 8.5:1 
> compression engines.  My KR has sloshed Saf-T-Poxy tanks and the Super Cub 
> has glass tanks that were made with an unknown resin before I bought the 
> project.  Neither seem to be any worse for having used Alcohol free Mogas.
>
> I have seen disastrous results from using alcohol contaminated fuel in glass 
> tanks.  One was thousands of $$ damage to the fuel system of a Cherokee 235 
> and the other totaled the plane (a Grumman Cheetah), so be sure to test your 
> fuel.
>
> Jeff Scott
> -Los Alamos, NM
>
>> - Original Message -
>>
>> NetHeads,
>>
>> For those who'd rather burn ethanol-free fuel, there's a website that lists 
>> most known vendors in the US and Canada at http://www.pure-gas.org/ .
>> Mark Langford
>> ML at N56ML.com
>> website at http://www.N56ML.com
>> 
>
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KR> One less KR - N774A

[Dave_A]

What were you using for a carb/injector/etc?

On 8/4/2013 10:42 AM, Brad Ankerstar wrote:
> Some of you know that the KR I started in 1974, resurrected on 2005, and
> expected to fly to Mt Vernon this year, was destroyed on its first
> "official" test .  I have several pictures and some comments on the
> integrity of the design, at http://www.krnet.org/krs/bankerstar/.
>
>   
>
> I expect to attend the gathering again this year, by car.  I need at least
> one more to wean myself from the KR dream.  I expect to have several metal
> parts for sale when I get there.  All of them are visible in at least one of
> the pictures.  The engine, and most instruments, will go to a new project,
> probably an Aerosport Quail.
>
>   
>
> Brad Ankerstar
>
> Cell:  513 313-9265
>
> ___
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KR> capacitance fuel level sender?

[Dave_A]

The easiest way to get a good seal is to use polysulfide sealant 
(Proseal) to seal the gaskets...

It's more flexible than epoxy, and is pretty much intended for fuel & 
water sealing purposes...

The downside is that it is VERY sticky/messy stuff ('infamous for 
getting all over everything BUT what you are trying to seal with it') & 
stinks like no-other

On 7/21/2013 6:05 PM, rbaalman at cox.net wrote:
> As an alternative, you can bore the five mounting holes and the probe hole 
> and use a sealed nut ring on the inside of the tank.  I made the ring out of 
> scrap aluminum and riveted domed nut-plates to the ring and then epoxied the 
> ring to the tank.  The hole pattern may  be similar to what cessna uses on 
> their tanks which is not symmetrical.  The probe will need to be clocked 
> after bending/ before drilling mount holes.  The bendable section will be the 
> first few inches of the probe.
> Roger
>
>  Jeff Scott  wrote:
>> It looks like the same thing as the Westach capacitance probe which is what 
>> I've got in my KR.  It has 5 holes for 3/16 screws and should come with a 
>> square mounting plate and gasket.  You bond the aluminum plate to the side 
>> of the fuel tank where you want to mount the probe.  The probe goes through 
>> a hole in the center of the plate and the base mounts to the flange using 5 
>> 3/16 screws or bolts.  I had problems with them weeping under the mounting 
>> gaskets off and on until I finally sealed the gaskets with some west epoxy.  
>> If you have an aluminum tank, you could weld or rivet the aluminum mounting 
>> flange to the tank.  The picture at 
>>  shows the 
>> mounting flange (even though that particular unit is the older 12V version 
>> of the probe).
> -Jeff Scott
> Los Alamos, NM
> 
>
>
>> - Original Message -
>> From: Mark Langford
>> Sent: 07/19/13 06:12 PM
>> To: KRnet
>> Subject: KR> capacitance fuel level sender?
>>
>> KRNetHeads,
>>
>> I've finally finished up front-hinging the canopy (I'll work up a web page 
>> over the weekend), and next on the list is adding a fuel level sender to 
>> N891JF. I have a VDO 226-007 resistive sender, but am considering a 
>> capacitance sensor as well. MGL sells one near the bottom of 
>> http://www.mglavionics.com/html/infinity.html described as "Capacitance Fuel 
>> Level Sender, Bendable, Cutable" . Is anybody familiar with this particular 
>> unit, and might know the thread size or other mounting details? I have a 
>> call in to MGL but have not heard back yet. I'm using an RDAC XF interface, 
>> and I think either of these two would work, but am checking my options.
>>
>> Thanks a lot,
>>
>> Mark Langford
>> ML at N56ML.com
>> website at http://www.N56ML.com
>> 
>>
>> ___
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>
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>
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KR> capacitance fuel level sender?

[Dave_A]

The mounting for most of those is a circular pattern of screws.

When I installed mine, I used the following process:

1) drill a hole for the probe to go through
2) Using the mounting holes as a guide, drill through the tank around 
the hole that the probe goes through
3) Rivet nut-plates to the inside of the tank, where the holes are
4) Use machine-screws to attach the fuel-sender & included gasket to the 
tank

On 7/20/2013 12:13 AM, Dene Collett wrote:
> Mark
> I am in South Africa and can give Renier, the owner a call for you on Monday
> morning if you like.
> I only have their office number or I would give him a call on his cell.
> I have spoken to him numerous times when I have had snags with installing
> MGL equipment and he is very helpful.
> Let me know if you would like me to give him a call
>
> Regards
> Dene Collett
> Avlec Projects cc
> Port Elizabeth
> South Africa
>
>
>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Mark
> Langford
>>> Sent: Saturday, July 20, 2013 2:12 AM
>>> To: KRnet
>>> Subject: KR> capacitance fuel level sender?
>>>
>>> KRNetHeads,
>>> MGL sells one near the bottom of
> http://www.mglavionics.com/html/infinity.html
>>> described as "Capacitance Fuel Level Sender, Bendable, Cutable" .  Is
> anybody
>>> familiar with this particular unit, and might know the thread size or
> other mounting
>>> details
>>> Mark Langford
>>> ML at N56ML.com
>>> website at http://www.N56ML.com
>>> 
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change 
> options

KR> Repaint

[Dave_A]

Paint stripper should logically be OK on the wood parts, just not the 
glass parts or the glass-to-wood joints...

On 12/29/2012 5:31 PM, billie settles wrote:
> Any of you guys out there ever repaint an older KR? You obviously wouldn't 
> use a paint stripper,  so, do you just sand the old paint and paint over it, 
> or what?
>
>  Thanks Bill.
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Pitot / static tube.

[Dave_A]

That's the catch... Because it is 'out of disturbed air', it depends on 
the design of each individual pitot... For example, my piper-style blade 
pitot has to extend further down, to make up for the fact that it 
doesn't extend forward at all...



On 12/12/2012 8:01 PM, Oscar Zuniga wrote:
> I believe Stef is asking how far forward the tubes should protrude.  
> Certainly ahead of any disturbed air, but how far is that?  Perhaps we can 
> refer to the nice colored CFD simulations that were developed when the new 
> airfoils were developed, and guesstimate how far forward the tubes need to be 
> as a fraction of wing chord?  The only such image I could find in a quick 
> search of the KRNet.org site was the very first one, here: 
> http://www.krnet.org/as504x/ .  It's not very definite.  I thought there were 
> a whole series of such images, from level cruise to past full stall.  Mark-?
>   
> Oscar Zuniga
> Medford, OR
>   
>   
> ___
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KR> Pitot / static tube.

[Dave_A]

Logically, the tube should be mounted to the thickest part of the wing, 
to ensure the lowest opening-position relative to the airstream

On 12/12/2012 4:40 AM, stef...@kpnmail.nl wrote:
> Kr friends,
> I found in the Books of Tony Bingelis useful information about the static and 
> pitot tube. We will install the tubes on the most ouboard point of the 
> stubwing. My question is.wat is the dimension from the front of the 
> leading egde to the front of the tubes.
> Hope you can give us some useful info.
>
> Stef.
>
> Stef and Ted are building the KR-2S see   
> http://www.masttotaalconcept.nl/kr2
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Dual electronic ignition

[Dave_A]

Dyna does make motorcycle coils, but there is no requirement that dyna 
coils be used with a dyna ignition...

And bike coils are probably one of the easiest/most common 
coil-per-2-plugs ignition options available for a CDI-type system

On 12/7/2012 6:12 AM, Phillip Hill wrote:
> If memory serves, Dyna makes hi performance ignition systems for
> motorcycles. Maybe this was a HAPI adaptation of sorts. I know Lee Vandyke
> has a HAPI engine, he might be one to talk to.  I had a Dyna ignition on my
> Honda CB750F Cafe Racer back in my younger days. These were adapted to many
> applications. There's no reason not to adapt them to an aviation engine. A
> quick Google search for Dyna Ignitions might turn up something to help
> identify stuffsurely there will be wiring diagrams of these things.
>
> Does your distributor have fixed timing or is there an advance system on
> it?  Any pics of what you have would be interesting.
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 7, 2012 at 1:58 AM, Clayton  wrote:
>
>> As near as I can tell, it is a Dyna ignition system.
>> And I only ascertained this by finding a picture of the coils.
>> The distributor has two leads coming out of the top with two sets of
>> pickups
>> inside. There are no markings on the distributor.
>> The pigtails that come out of the distributor attach to the CDI unit? and
>> that is wired to the four coils that have two sparkplug leads each. Dual
>> electronic ignition?
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
>> Of Phillip Hill
>> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2012 10:44 AM
>> To: KRnet
>> Subject: Re: KR> Dual electronic ignition
>>
>> I know some of them had CompuFire Ignitions on them. Some had Pertronix
>> pickups in the stock distributor.  I know, MSD and Mallory both make
>> electronic ignitions for the Type I style VW engines.
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>
> ___
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> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Smartplugs

[Dave_A]

It almost looks like they are 'semi-dieselizing' gasoline engines, with 
a glow-plug-like ignition source & relying on compression to create the 
conditions for ignition...

On 12/9/2012 9:32 AM, J L wrote:
> Larry,
>
> I have been keeping an eye on them for 6 years or so. They used to say
> that they were flying them in a Cub on floats but I can't find that
> anymore. Not much has changed about their site or claims over the
> years.
>
> Jeff Lange
>
> On 12/9/12, Larry&Sallie Flesner  wrote:
>>
>> Has anyone hear of any late developments on the
>> "Smartplugs"?  http://www.smartplugs.com/aircraft/airboat.htm
>>
>> Looks like they were developed 10 or 12 years ago but I've never
>> heard of them.  Sounds very interesting to me.
>>
>> Larry Flesner
>>
>>
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>
> ___
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> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Hexcel Adhesive.

[Dave_A]

Nails are not a good idea - they weaken the structure. And extra glass = 
extra weight

'Just glue' holds alot more advanced aircraft together, and the KR is 
not exactly a new design - they have been flying for long enough that if 
there were structural issues we'd see them... So far, the main one was 
the original landing gear, and that has been 'corrected' by the newer 
Diehl designs...



On 11/23/2012 10:08 PM, David wade wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I am building a KR-2 and I was wondering If anyone has tried the Hexcel  
> all-purpose adhesive from aircraft spruce? If so, How well does it work and 
> is it better than the standard T-88? Another thing I was a bit skeptical  
> about is the fuselage, I presumed that there was a double safety in the 
> construction of bonding the skin to the frame with Just Glue.  I would 
> imagine as a second safety precaution, you would add a aircraft nail  3/8" 
> every 2 inches along the outside through the skin into each frame member and 
> along the bottom edges reinforce with Fiberglass strips.
>   
> Mr wade
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
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> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Shop Heat

[Dave_A]

Look into a catalytic propane heater...

No muss, no fumes, less carbon monoxide concerns... Runs off a BBQ tank...

On 11/5/2012 4:15 AM, Robert Boyd wrote:
> Hey guys, I'm getting ready to get back on my KR2S project and have a 
> question.
> In Ohio the temps are getting down there which will require me to heat
> the shop. At present the only source for heat is a torpedo style
> Kerosene heater. Are there any thoughts on using Kerosene heat? My
> concern would be the oil film given off by this type of heat. I am in
> the boat stage and was wondering about the exposed wood being
> subjected to the fumes or film?
> Bob in Frazeysburg Ohio.
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Two KR Projects for sale priced to move quickly $3500 and $1500

[Dave_A]

I will point out that www.uship.com offers some very good shipping deals 
for anyone looking to buy a plane and 'have it moved'...

I did this, my plane started out in FLA and is now in WA.

KR> Pin out (TXN960)

[Dave_A]

In here (plenty more similar-vintage avionics p/os here too)

http://www.aeroelectric.com/Installation_Data/

On 10/19/2012 7:42 PM, PatS wrote:
> Guys;  Any one got a pin out for a Terra TXN 960?  Could use same to check 
> unit out.  Thanks
> IHS
> PatS
> Seminary, MS
> ___
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KR> Brake lock

[Dave_A]

What sort of certified aircraft?

Piper uses another master-cylinder... I've never seen the system Cessna 
uses up close (Eg, from anything but the pilot's perspective) but I do 
remember that it had a pull-lever similar to the park-brake on an old 
pickup truck

Perhaps the valves you have were designed to be controlled by a linkage 
or hydraulic system of some sort, that was capable of applying more 
leverage/pressure?

On 10/14/2012 5:15 AM, Jose Fuentes wrote:
> What I don't get and trying to figure out why is that these brake
> on/off valves came off a certified airplane for the brake system.
> Though they will not close under pressure.
>
> Wish I saw how they were used.
>
> Sent from my Windows Phone
> From: Larry&Sallie Flesner
> Sent: 10/13/2012 6:44 PM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR> Brake lock
> At 12:41 PM 10/13/2012, you wrote:
>>> I got a couple valves and I figured I would use it to hold the brakes.
>>> Problem is the brake valves won't close while under pressure. This makes
>>> them useless.   Any ideas how to fix this?
> 
>
> CHOCKS. :-)  450 hours ago I was concerned that I had no "brake lock"
> but now I can't really say I miss having one.
>
> Larry Flesner
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
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> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Brake lock

[Dave_A]

3rd master cylinder, 'latching' lever for an actuator, check valves & 
T-fittings?

It would not work to hold already-stepped-on brakes, but it would apply 
and hold both brakes as long as the lever was latched in the 'applied' 
position.

Eg: 'extra' MC -> tee -> lines to each side brakes -> check valve in 
each line -> 2  more tees to tie them in with the per-side brake lines...

Then a flap-handle style brake actuator that 'locks' in various 
positions (eg, can be locked in 'brakes on' position)...

On 10/13/2012 9:39 AM, Jose Fuentes wrote:
> I got a couple valves and I figured I would use it to hold the brakes.
> Problem is the brake valves won't close while under pressure. This makes
> them useless.
>
> Any ideas how to fix this?
>
> Sent from my Windows Phone
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re:Lowrance 2000 update

[Dave_A]

Try being a blue mountain owner

On 10/11/2012 6:35 PM, The Ainsworths wrote:
> Larry et al
> Corvair list in 2011 (note date) about the Lowrance 2000 update. I don't
> know the status of this but maybe Ron will chime in on the status of the
> update(see email address of Rob). Perhaps the archives may tell moreI
> keep everything -lol-
> - Original Message -
> From: "Ron Lendon" 
> To: "Corvaircraft" 
> Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2011 4:43 PM
> Subject: CorvAircraft> Lowrance update available
>
>
> FYI,
>
> I just received a JEPPESEN AMERICAS SINGLE UPDATE SD card from LEI /
> Navico, Inc. Plugged it in and here is what displayed 2/10/11 - 3/9/11
> so I guess I as up to date as I can be.  This feels much better, I
> thought we Lowrance owners were gonna be orphans forever.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>   From: Jeff Scott 
> .
> Ray,
>
> I posted this previously, but it apparently failed to go through...
>
> I would recommend . Here's a link that shows my
> flight path for the last week or so.
>
> -Jeff Scott
> .
> ___
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>
>
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KR> A reminder... Check Wheels Down!

[Dave_A]

No, this wasn't me... Wasn't a KR...

But I got to watch a very nice Cessna twin go up in smoke because the 
pilot landed gear-up into dry grass today, while I was working on my KR...

The landing itself wasn't bad - would have been just fine if the wheels 
were down. Pilot & passenger got out on their own...

The friction from landing gear-up, or possibly contact between dry grass 
& the exhaust started a grass fire under the plane, and the interior 
caught on fire (appeared to start behind or below the instrument panel) 
while waiting for the FD to show up

This was at a small airfield, the office was closed for the day, and the 
only fire-fighting equipment available was a single extinguisher over by 
the fuel pumps (just enough to put out the fire under the wings - in the 
interest of preventing a grass fire from becoming a grass/fuel fire)... 
The pilot left his... In the plane...

Notables:
1) Don't land gear up
2) If you do have a crash landing, and you can safely do so, 
master-off/fuel-selector-off on the way out the door...
3) Fire extinguishers do not good when left inside whatever it is that 
eventually catches fire...

KR> Canopy

[Dave_A]

My canopy is held on by a full-length hinge on the right (copilot) side, 
and a pair of marine-style hatch-fasteners on the left.

The gas-strut thing never occurred to me - right now the 'canopy 
support' 2 pieces of aluminum angle, bolted together in the middle by a 
single bolt so that when 'released' they fold into a V-shape to allow 
the canopy to close... There's a 3rd piece of aluminum that slides down 
over the joint to prevent it from closing when you want the canopy open...



On 7/23/2012 11:30 AM, Peter Drake wrote:
> I have finally got my canopy made. I used Mark Langford?s system with radial 
> hinges and gas struts. Although I made an aluminium frame which I brazed with 
> amazing stuff called Techno weld.
> It is brazing for aluminium. It melts below the temperature of aluminium but 
> is very strong and you can do it with a propane torch. You have to watch the 
> temperature control otherwise the whole job melts on you!
> I then stuck it on with Sikaflex, aluminium strips and rivets.
> My only problem now is how to secure it. Has anyone got any ideas. What did 
> you do on yours Mark?
>
> Peter Drake
> UK
> peterskr2s.co.uk
> ___
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KR> Anyone have a printable template for wing-walk ribs?

[Dave_A]

Looking at adding a wing-walk to my plane now that it's on tri-gear...

I'm looking for a template I could print out, to make stiffener-ribs 
from 1x2 lumber, for use as a wing-walk.

KR> Ethanol Compatibility

[Dave_A]

Oxegenating Agent...

The problem (noticed first on powerboats with fiberglass fual tanks) is 
that it dissolves most fiberglass resins - and in the process wrecks 
fuel systems

If you don't have a metal tank, don't run ethanol-contaminated fuel.

Test kits are available, that rely on the fact that ethanol mixes with 
water, but gasoline does not.

On 7/17/2012 6:33 PM, Tony King wrote:
> I thought Ethanol was an 'octane boosting solvent'?
>
> TK
>
> On 18 July 2012 11:27, Chris Gardner  wrote:
>
>> Sid
>> I had a similar occurrence years ago with my KR wing tanks made of Dow
>> Derakane vinyl ester resin and Sunoco 94 octane gas.
>> At the time I didn't think Ethanol was the problem but rather some kind of
>> octane boosting solvent.
>> Luckily I noticed it before running the fuel into the header tank or
>> engine.
>> Draining the tanks and letting it re-cure also worked for me.
>> I now use Shell V Power 92 and test every load for ethanol with a simple
>> water absorption test
>> Works fine
>> Regards
>> Chris Gardiner
>> kR2S 230 hours VW2180
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On 2012-07-12, at 10:52 AM, "Sid Wood"  wrote:
>>
>>> I remember Mark Langford saying that public confessions were good for the
>>> soul or something like that.  That also makes it more difficult to get
>>> elected to political office.  I am looking for neither of those concerns.
>>> I once recommended building fiber glass fuel tanks using Vinyl Ester
>> Resin.
>>> All sources that I could find did say that Vinyl Ester was compatible
>> with
>>> the Ethanol found in most automobile fuels today.  Conversely, Epoxy was
>> not
>>> compatible with Ethanol.  I built the wing tanks in my Diehl wing skins
>>> using Vinyl Ester Resin per the Diehl instructions.  When I put in
>> 92-octane
>>> auto fuel containing 10 percent Ethanol, I got the same reaction as if
>> the
>>> tanks were made with Epoxy.  Surfaces slowly started to dissolve, fuel
>>> turned yellowish brown and a sticky brown goo starting clogging the
>> sumps.
>>> I researched my sources on the internet and all still confirmed my
>> previous
>>> conclusion.  Looking a little further on solvency chemistry, I found
>>> internet sites that address ways to enhance solvent action.  Pure
>> Ethanol,
>>> gasoline and water are excellent solvents by themselves, but none of
>> these
>>> alone will effect cured Vinyl Ester.  Adding 6 percent water to Ethanol
>> will
>>> produce a solvent that will slowly dissolve Vinyl Ester.  So, how much
>> water
>>> would that actually be in auto fuel containing 10 percent Ethanol?  The
>> math
>>> is easy: 10 percent of 6 percent is 0.6 percent.  That's less than 1
>> ounce
>>> per gallon.  Where does the water come from?  From the moisture in the
>> air,
>>> the Ethanol will readily adsorb the water in half full tanks, especially
>> if
>>> there is a vent like most aircraft tanks (like mine).
>>> I now have drained the tanks and left the caps off.  After 2 weeks the
>> goo
>>> on the inside surfaces has "re-cured" hard just like the original.  The
>>> quick-drains had become clogged and have been replaced.  One concern is
>> the
>>> integrity of the tank walls; there is an imprint of the foam layer
>>> sandwiched between the inner and outer wing surface, top and bottom, that
>>> outlines the wing tanks.  This imprint pattern appeared when the drying
>> out
>>> process was started.  Any ideas what is going on with that?
>>> Long term plan now is to use 100LL.
>>>
>>> Sid Wood
>>> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
>>> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>>> smw...@md.metrocast.net
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
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>>
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KR> PSRU type stuff

[Dave_A]

I think the main application for PSRUs in aircraft, is if you're running 
an engine with an absurdly-high operating RPM/power-curve, that you need 
to bring down to make using a prop practical...

For example, if you're powering your plane with a Subie motor that 
red-lines at 6k+, you're obviously going to want to reduce that down a 
bit, as there really aren't that many prop-combos that will work in that 
power-band unreduced...

The other reason, would be to isolate engines with less-durable 
crankshafts, from the forces associated with a prop hub...

That said, Continental DOES or DID make a version of the O-300 with a 
geared PSRU, for certified aircraft - and it seemed that they did so 
entirely for powerband reasons (to turn the engine at over 3K, while 
turning the prop at the normal 2400-2600 seen in most certified 
direct-drive designs...



On 7/13/2012 1:51 PM, Matt Elder wrote:
> CVT - continuously variable transmission
>
> I have designed 2 of them for small vehicle applications at my last job,
> and worked on 2 others that someone else designed.  I will tell you that
> though in theory they are simple, in practice they are full of gremlins.
>I wouldn't go as far as to say you can't do it, but I don't think
> would be worth the development effort.  It won't be lighter than a
> standard gear reduction for sure.
>
> That said -
> I guess I'm missing the benefit.  With a "constant speed" prop, you
> (well, the prop gov.) vary the prop pitch to control engine and prop
> rpm, and thus load on the engine dependent on a throttle setting.
> Driving a fixed pitch prop at one rpm while varying the engine rpm
> doesn't get you anything except a prop that spins 2400 rpm from idle (or
> tries before killing the motor) to somewhere in the power-band.  Even if
> you made the output (prop) rpm adjustable, there's no gain because FP
> props are most effecient at a small range of rpm while (hopefully the
> powerband of the engine) in a specified airspeed range.  The only thing
> you might get out of it is the ability to tune the engine to a specific
> prop/airframe, which we do already (but in reverse) by playing with prop
> diameter, pitch, blade profile, etc...
>
> It works great in a ground vehicle because you can tune the engine to
> max efficiency, or max power, and the cvt can change gear ratios as
> wheel rpm (speed) increases to keep the engine at the same rpm.  It
> doesn't work like that in an airplane.  You need to be able to vary the
> pitch of the prop most importantly to get efficiency at different
> airspeed while keeping the engine at a speed it likes to make power in
> (or run more efficient in).  The prop is the actual transmission.   So
> in effect, the hyd/electric prop govs. are akin to CVT's.  In reality,
> I'd love to be able to vary diameter too!  And telescope the wings
>
> If I'm off on my thinking here, please elaborate.
> It sounds like you want/need a gearbox with an oil system so that you
> can run a const. speed prop
>
> Matt E.
>
>> On 7/12/2012 6:03 PM, John wrote:
>>> I was wondering if anybody has heard of anybody doing a CVT type setup
>>> instead
>>> of the PSRU? (Constant Velocity Transmission) search youtube for CVT.
>>> seems to me that it could weigh about the same and keep the prop at say
>>> 2400 rpm
>>> while the engine rpm varies.
>>>From what I've seen they're all set up to let drive wheel rpm vary
>>> while engine stays
>>> in "best power" -
>>>
>
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> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Fuel Injector - Continental carbs

[Dave_A]

I looked into the Marvel & Stromberg units that would be right-sized, 
the problem is that they are rare as hen's teeth AND certified aircraft 
parts, so they're really absurdly expensive...


On 7/2/2012 6:16 PM, Dan Heath wrote:
> I have used the Ellison for many years.  I finally scrounged an EFS-2 for my
> VW and it worked very well.  I now have an EFS-3A on my Corvair and it works
> as well.  The Ellison is a carb that you can install and run with only a
> couple of well documented setup steps.  And, it works from then on without
> any fooling around.
>
> The Revflow and the AeroCarb are not even close to being on the same scale
> as the Ellison.  I have had both and they require "fooling around".
>
> Rotec does make an Ellison "like" carb.  I don't know if they have it in the
> size needed for a VW however.  I dumped it after I found how ridiculously
> crazy the throttle connection was set up.  On the Ellison, the cable is
> fixed and only the inner cable moves to operate the slide.  On the Rotec,
> the end of the cable is fixed and the rest of the entire cable moves to
> operate the slide.  That is one of the most NUTZ things I have ever seen.
> Other than that, I expect that it operates much like the Ellison.
>
> I have wondered why VW engine people don't use a carb meant for an A65 or
> A75 Continental?  They use the Marvel MAE-3 on the Corvairs.
>
> See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics
> See you at the 2012 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN ? 40th
> Anniversary
> There is a time for building and it is over.
> Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
> http://www.krbuilder.org/MyUSA/
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
>
> what is your opinion of  the  ELLISON and AEROIJECTOR?
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Getting closer to 'flyable' - a few (Diehl-Gear related) questions...

[Dave_A]

Well, first off, if you are doing a gear retrofit, the 'Milescraft 
Drive-90' is an indispensible tool... Absolutely the smallest 90-degree 
close-quarters drill head I could find, it allows me to work within the 
space of the existing gear holes without cutting out the top wingskin, 
or making the holes any bigger than they have to be to fit the (huge) 
Diehl brackets... It takes the screwdriver-bit style hex-shank bits.

Also very useful for installing the nosegear, specifically for drilling 
the firewall holes with the gear bracket in place against the firewall.

So, I'm about to mount my gear - which is the 'All done but the 
fat-lady' stage of this repair (all that will be left is covering up 
access holes, wiring the electric trim & a few fiberglass patches)

1) What sort of epoxy does one use to stick the wheels to the gear-legs, 
and the gear-legs to the bracket? JB-Weld? T-88? I'm thinking the 'West' 
stuff I bought for glass work is probably not a good idea for that 
application...

2) Is there any harm in epoxying the gear brackets to the spar when you 
bolt them on?

3) My wings have a plywood rib about 3 to 4" from the fuselage sides - I 
don't remember this as a 'supposed to be there' item - is it? Should I 
cut into it to mount the Diehl brackets flush with the fuse, or should I 
mount the brackets outboard of this rib?

4) Any other tips?

KR> is a VW powerful enough for 2 people?

[Dave_A]

IIRC, the original KR-2 had a pretty small motor as VWs go and did 
manage to lift 2...

Just watch your CG...

On 6/25/2012 9:14 PM, jeffyor...@yahoo.com wrote:
> I have done it several times and I have flown in Rob Schmidts with Rob and me 
> and I know he flys his mom sometimes.
>
> I have a Great Plains 2180 and I think that what Rob has. You probably should 
> go ahead and get the large remote oil cooler as it seems that most guys 
> running a VW thats built to a 2180 has oil temp issues. But most have solved 
> them with a big oil cooler.
>
> I think they are a great reliable engine and have proven themselves over many 
> years on several different air frames.
>
> Dan Heath has a type 4 VW for sale and I would love to have it. Knowing Dans 
> pension for perfection my bet is its a great motor. If I was looking and 
> wanted reliable power, I would snap Dans motor up. I wish I had the extra 
> money to buy it anyway.
>
> Jeff York
> KR2
> 2010 KR National Peoples Choice and Best Interior
> 2011 Air Fest Best Experimental, Best Instrument
>
>
> Sent from my HTC smartphone on the Now Network from Sprint!
>
> - Reply message -
> From: "Brad Payne"
> To:
> Subject: KR>  is a VW powerful enough for 2 people?
> Date: Mon, Jun 25, 2012 10:57 pm
>
>
> I am at a point where I need to make a decision about an Engine.
>
> Does anyone have any experience flying 2 people (380 lbs or so) behind a 80
> HP VW?
>
> Does anyone have a Flywheel Drive VW on their KR2?
>
> Am I asking to much from a VW to pull 2 people?
>
> Thanks!
>

KR> Anyone use FR4 for construction or repairs?

[Dave_A]

Ahh...

What I'm looking for (thought this might be it, but I guess it's not) is 
a pre-laminated fiberglass sheet that can be epoxied in place in leiu of 
wet-layup...

When I first joined the Army, I was an airframe mechanic, and we had 
this stuff in the shop that we called card-stock or fiberglass laminate. 
It was used for repair of flat or nearly-flat sandwich-construction 
panels (essentially similar to most of what the KR's made of) in leiu of 
wet-layup...  Adhesive was put between this stuff & whatever sort of 
core-patch had been applied, the end result was a nice clean/eaven, very 
quick patch

I can't quite put a name on it, and the FR-4 substance seemed right... 
Guess it's not...

If all else fails, I *can* do it the traditional peel-ply way...  Will 
have to come up with a suitably rigid backing board for the underside of 
the elevator, because this plane is not 'flippable'... One of many times 
I wish I had access to my old shop on base (and all the whiz-bang 
composite repair gadgetry - especially the hot-vaccum-bonder)... 'course 
I'm much happier as a tanker than a REMF, but enough Army talk, anyhow...

- Dave

On 6/25/2012 7:23 PM, Mark wrote:
> More properly FR-4 (fire retardant (e-glass) glass reinforced epoxy
> typically used in the manufacture of printed circuit boards (I did that for
> about 25 years). The epoxy resin is formulated with a brominated fire
> retardant and can be purchased as a "b-staged" material (partially cured and
> used to construct rigid PCB's and Multi-layered PCB's) in 1080 (.0025" cured
> and pressed thickness) to 7628 (~0.008" cured and pressed) layed up to
> produce laminates anywhere from 0.005" thick up to and including 0.125"
> thick (typically). Typical lamination pressures are 250 psi at about 350
> degrees F. 25,000 pound shear is common when properly laminated and cured -
> post bake is optional. Other resin systems have different mechanical
> properties, although the reinforcing material is a significant contributor
> to the laminate.
>
> The b-staged laminate needs to be driven to 300F (minimum to get the epoxy
> to flow). You would be better off buying the woven class and performing the
> normal epoxy flood/squeegee/peel ply method to get your repairs done. JMHO.
>
> Vacuum can reduce the net pressure of the process. T sub G's (glass
> transition) is typically in excess of 275 degrees F.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Mark W.
> N952MW (res)
>
> -Original Message-
> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
> Of Tony Wright
> Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 7:23 PM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR>  Anyone use FR4 for construction or repairs?
>
> Dave,
>
> I have never heard of fr4, but I have used FRP (fibreglass reinforced
> plywood) in trailer repairs.  think this could be used in non-structural
> uses.
>
> Tony
>
> --
> From: "Dave Acklam"
> Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 5:51 PM
> To: "KRnet"
> Subject: KR>  Anyone use FR4 for construction or repairs?
>
>> Fr4 is pre-cured fiberglass sheet made with epoxy resin. Kind of
>> like a composite version of 1/16 ply. It's available in :005in and
>> up
>>
>> I'm thinking of using this for some of my larger flat repairs; in leiu
>> of laying up glass (eg replacing the pilot side elevator skin)...
>>
>> Essentially, like an unmoulded version of prefab wingskins
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please
> see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Engine mount

[Dave_A]

Another thing that would probably help your w/b is mounting your battery 
in front of the firewall...



On 6/21/2012 12:30 PM, mfreem...@indy.rr.com wrote:
> I've got the mount jig built and ready to start fitting the 4130 steel that I 
> got from Wicks Aircraft.
> The original mount was so close to the firewall that you had to undue the 
> mount bolts and slide the engine forward to pull the starter off and that was 
> with a 3/8ths" aluminum spacer. The battery was mounted on the floor under my 
> knees to get the weight forward and with two people in the plane it was tail 
> heavy with full fuel untill you burned some off from the wings. So I think 
> moving the engine forward will only help the weight and balance.
>
> Of those who have the Cont. O-200 engine mounted in their plane, how far 
> forward of your firewall are the face of your engine mount bushings? Mine 
> will be 11-1/2" per the plans Jeff sent me. The old mount was about 10 or 
> 10-1/2" without the 3/8ths" spacers.
>
> Dan.
>
>
>  Larry&Sallie Flesner  wrote:
>> At 12:24 PM 6/19/2012, you wrote:
>>> Ok I finally had some success with the KRnet search engine.
>>>
>>> It seems like Rand Robinson recommended the crank centerline be
>>> 1-1/2" below the top of the longeron.
>> +++
>>
>> I'm  using a HAPI VW mount for my 0-200 as did Marty Roberts.  My
>> mount has 1 inch aluminum spacers on the firewall.  As I recall, the
>> top mount bolts on the firewall are centered on the top spruce member
>> on the firewall, in my case that is a 3/4 inch by 3 1/2 inch spruce
>> plank, slightly bigger than the plans call for, and those bolts are
>> in line with the top engine mount bolts. This puts the thrust line
>> just a few inches below the top longerons and only a few inches below
>> the horizontal stabilizer.  I'm guessing that a few inches up or down
>> from there will make very little difference in the handling, only the
>> fitting of the cowl.
>>
>> As always, your results may vary. :-)
>>
>> Larry Flesner
>>
>>
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> (no subject)

[Dave_A]

Most likely a computer virus of some sort..

On 6/17/2012 8:16 PM, Allen G. Wiesner wrote:
> SPAM!
>

KR> Diehl Gear Conversions - has anyone put the brackets in the 'holes' left by the old gear?

[Dave_A]

Are there any issues with this, besides 'measure twice, drill once'?

I know the 'design' specifies that they go right next to the body of the 
plane, but I'd rather not cut out the underside of my wings if I can 
avoid it

I'm doing a retract -> tri-gear conversion, and was thinking that since 
there's this nice big hole already there on the back of the spar (where 
the retracts go) I could just stick the brackets in that spot, and 
minimize how much re-glassing I have to do...

Is there any benefit to having the gear closer to the fuselage, besides 
a narrower ground track?

KR> Planes & Such...

[Dave_A]

If you'd like to come by and see my plane on Saturday, give me a call...

I'd certainly like to see (maybe ride left-seat in some day - I'd pay 
for gas) your plane, as right now the only real I've ever been around in 
person, is mine...

KR> Re-Post - My plane has been delivered to Washington. Now I can finall...

[Dave_A]

BTW, I'd love to see your plane sometime... I've never actually seen a 
finished KR - just the one I bought and am fixing up...

On 5/31/2012 9:51 PM, rdrace...@aol.com wrote:
> Dave,
> if you are located on spanaway airport I would love to come over and take a
>   look at your project.  My KR-2S is hangared at Pierce County Airport, and
> you are welcome to come over and look at it anytime you want to give me a
> call.  Contact me off net for my phone number.
>
> Todd Thelin
> Spanaway, WA
>
>
> In a message dated 5/31/2012 3:54:23 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
> dave.a.kr...@gmail.com writes:
>
> Spanaway  Airport
> On May 31, 2012 1:34 PM,   wrote:
>
>> Where in Washington?
>>
>> Todd Thelin
>>   Spanaway, WA
>>
>>
>> In a message dated 5/24/2012 8:13:45 P.M.  Pacific Daylight Time,
>> dave.a.kr...@gmail.com writes:
>>
>>   It's  finally here...
>>
>>   ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at  http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet,  send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info  at  http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>
> ___
> Search  the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To  UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see  other KRnet info at  http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Kr-2s Lsa?

[Dave_A]

KR3 was supposed to be a float plane, right?

On 5/29/2012 6:36 AM, Nerobro wrote:
> The KR3 already happened.  And it didn't end well.  :-)  going to LSA specs
> would be an interesting exercise.  I wonder what a LSA wing would look
> like.  People would need to be a lot more careful about airframe weight.
> On May 29, 2012 5:45 AM, "Jim Kendrick"  wrote:
>
>> Tom,
>>
>> You pose some interesting points and would like to hear some others to see
>> if there is an interest for us old coots too  But maybe its time for a
>> KR3 ?
>>
>> Jim Kendrick
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, May 23, 2012 at 12:22 PM, Tom  wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Jim Kendrick asked about a super Kr2 becoming an LSA?  I have asked the
>>> same question Jim.  Having been retired for more than a decade from a 45
>>> year wonderful career in Architecture, I certainly am not qualified to
>>> design the main wing spar for a longer span for the outer wing panel for
>>> the Kr.  At one time, Rand designed outer wing panels for the Kr-1 to
>> make
>>> it into a glider, but I never saw or understood what kind of loads it
>> would
>>> carry.  In looking at some of the newest LSA designs for sale in Sport
>>> aviation, they have wing spans of around thirty feet for the thirteen
>>> hundred gross weight.  I have not seen what airfoils these designs use,
>> but
>>> there are several in EAA books that would certainly could be used to Slow
>>> it down, Match the required stall at gross, etc.  We old coots that could
>>> fly LSA, might be able to get back into the air?  I said it before, some
>> of
>>> you young engineer types come up with wing designs and plans, we will buy
>>> them.  These airplanes all have hershy bar wings.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> on a different thought about Kr-2  pitch sensitive control, there is an
>>> article in January 1988 Sport aviation, that is worth reading before the
>>> first flight of a new Kr-2.  EAA Members can access past articles on the
>>> internet, if you can remember all the pass words.  Two things that stood
>>> out for me as note worthy are, tail wheel training is necessary, and the
>>> top of control stick only moves at a one half inch radius circle!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Tom Garner in Nashville
>>>
>>> EAA 90944
>>> ___
>>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>>
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Upsize?

[Dave_A]

The T-40 isn't a 4-place, and it's very different construction than the 
KR (no foam, minimal composite work). However, I can kind of see the 
comparison between a T-40A and an 'Upsized KR2', when it comes to 
appearance (It's a much heavier bird too - O-320 vs VW & all)...

I've got a T-40AS that I need to finish, once the KR is flying...

That said, I'm working on finishing one of those too...

On 5/29/2012 2:12 PM, Virgil N. Salisbury wrote:
>   Try a Turner T-40 ??? Virg
>
>
>   On 5/29/2012 3:57 PM, Bob White wrote:
>> I Haven't even finished my kr2 just yet but expect to have it flying within 
>> the next 2 months, though I often catch myself day dreaming about building a 
>> 4 place aircraft.  Anyone ever look into upsizing the kr2 design to have 4 
>> seats?  I know it would be quite a redesign and would probably be better off 
>> going with a design that was originally intended for 4 seats.
>>
>> Bob white
>>
>> robertwh...@usa.com
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> What to do about VW oil pump with tach drive....

[Dave_A]

This is what I have on my engine (well, one just like it, anyhow):
http://images.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/pix/4357146.jpg

If I get rid of the cable without 'doing something' then I am stuck with
that drive connection exposed - which can allow oil to leak out - or
grime to find it's way in...

I'm trying to make sure there isn't a 'better option' besides 'new oil
pump' or 'buy a new drive gear and hope you measured right'

Just replacing the cover won't do, because the oil-pump drive gear that
I currently have, has another gear on the top to make that tach-drive work.

So if I could keep using it to drive a tach sender, that would be
'ideal'... Or if there was somewhere I could buy a cap to screw on the
end, to keep stuff from getting in&  oil from getting out...



On 5/28/2012 3:04 AM, Dan Heath wrote:
>  If you have a Magneto, you should drive your tach off that.  I don't see
>  where the Oil pump has anything to do with it.  My EFIS ( Dynon ) just needs
>  to see the pulse that is driving the ignition.  If I have my VW ( which is
>  for sale ) on the plane, then I would have the P-Lead running to  the Dynon
>  input.  On my Corvair installation, I have the line that powers the coils
>  running to the Dynon inuts.
>
>  Are you using the engine pump?  If not, Great Plains and Revmaster use a
>  cover that works.
>
>  See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics
>  See you at the 2012 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN ? 40th
>  Anniversary
>  There is a time for building and it is over.
>  Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
>  http://www.krbuilder.org/MyUSA/
>
>  -Original Message-
>
>  Does anyone know of an electronic tach sender that fits this thing? Or of
>  some way to buy a cap that will thread over the drive&   seal it off (To
>  prevent gunk getting in, or oil getting out)?
>
>
>  ___
>  Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
>  To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>  please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Sticking layers of foam together....

[Dave_A]

Ok, since I'm fixing an existing project, rather than starting from 
scratch...

I have two areas of significant foam damage, where I cut the damaged 
foam out & am making through-and-through patches (the base of the 
rudder, and the center-section of the pilot-side elevator)... Due to the 
thickness of the foam I have, this means laminating 2 or more layers of 
foam together horizontally , to make a patch..

What is the common method for sticking multiple layers of foam together?

Is there any issue with using 3M spray-on contact cement to attach 
horizontal sheets of foam to each other, then epoxy around the edges to 
attach the assembled patch to the existing structure?

Or should I just epoxy it all together?

The reason I was thinking 'contact cement' is it's a bit less messy & 
quicker drying than full-on epoxy (which I will be using for final 
assembly)...

KR> What to do about VW oil pump with tach drive....

[Dave_A]

This is what I have on my engine (well, one just like it, anyhow):
http://images.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/pix/4357146.jpg

If I get rid of the cable without 'doing something' then I am stuck with 
that drive connection exposed - which can allow oil to leak out - or 
grime to find it's way in...

I'm trying to make sure there isn't a 'better option' besides 'new oil 
pump' or 'buy a new drive gear and hope you measured right'

Just replacing the cover won't do, because the oil-pump drive gear that 
I currently have, has another gear on the top to make that tach-drive work.

So if I could keep using it to drive a tach sender, that would be 
'ideal'... Or if there was somewhere I could buy a cap to screw on the 
end, to keep stuff from getting in & oil from getting out...



On 5/28/2012 3:04 AM, Dan Heath wrote:
> If you have a Magneto, you should drive your tach off that.  I don't see
> where the Oil pump has anything to do with it.  My EFIS ( Dynon ) just needs
> to see the pulse that is driving the ignition.  If I have my VW ( which is
> for sale ) on the plane, then I would have the P-Lead running to  the Dynon
> input.  On my Corvair installation, I have the line that powers the coils
> running to the Dynon inuts.
>
> Are you using the engine pump?  If not, Great Plains and Revmaster use a
> cover that works.
>
> See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics
> See you at the 2012 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN ? 40th
> Anniversary
> There is a time for building and it is over.
> Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
> http://www.krbuilder.org/MyUSA/
>
> -Original Message-
>
> Does anyone know of an electronic tach sender that fits this thing? Or of
> some way to buy a cap that will thread over the drive&  seal it off (To
> prevent gunk getting in, or oil getting out)?
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> What to do about VW oil pump with tach drive....

[Dave_A]

My plane came with an 1835 VW of some sort, and it was set up with a 
'Porsche Style' mechanical tach drive...

My issue? i'm not putting a mechanical tach in this plane - I'm using an 
EFIS with an electric tach input.

I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions other than 'replace 
pump-cover and oil-pump drive gear' to deal with the (now un-needed) 
mechanical tach drive...

Does anyone know of an electronic tach sender that fits this thing? Or 
of some way to buy a cap that will thread over the drive & seal it off 
(To prevent gunk getting in, or oil getting out)?

I'm trying to avoid buying a new pump, or at a minimum a new 
pump-drive-gear and cover...

KR> Laminating spars

[Dave_A]

If you make a laminated-plywood spar with the laminations vertical, it 
will be more susceptible to bending forward-to-back (doing it horizontal 
makes it so that if there's bending, it's up and down...

Also, for the solid-laminated, bent design (which is pretty heavy and 
thus not used in the KR - but is found in some Lycoming-powered designs) 
that poses another problem - you can't bend a vertically laminated spar 
vertically (due to the above rigidity issue) to achieve your dihedral, 
as seen in this design (my other project): 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/T-40/


On 5/24/2012 9:02 PM, Brian and Sue Deveson wrote:
> Now that is a good question. I look forward to comments.
>
> Brian
> Bundaberg
> Australia
> - Original Message -
> From: "Tony King"
> To: "KRnet"
> Sent: Friday, May 25, 2012 1:05 PM
> Subject: KR>  Laminating spars
>
>
> I'm about to start laminating the timber to form my centre section
> spars from pieces that are 19mm (3/4") thick.  Is the orientation of
> the laminations significant?  I'm not sure why but all the laminated
> timber beams I've seen have the lamination layer horizontal.  I can do
> this but in this case I'd waste less wood if the laminations were
> vertical.  Does it matter?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Tony King
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
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>
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KR> Re-Post - My plane has been delivered to Washington. Now I can finally get to finishing!

[Dave_A]

It's finally here...

Now I can finish it without flying to FL to work on it...

A big +1 to uShip.com and Gem City Transport ($1600-ish to move a 
complete KR-2 from the Tampa area to just outside Olympia, WA)

Now, Memorial Day weekend will be spent working on the plane...

Once I get my new landing gear (I'm converting to tri-gear), I'll be 
removing the stock mains with hydraulic brakes (the Diehl mains I've 
bought are used and come with brakes) & offering them here - as well as 
maybe one or two items...

The aim is to be in the air by September!

P.S. Steve, nvAero - I got the flap handle I bought from you guys, even 
though USPS said they returned it.

KR> My plane has made it to Washington!!!! (N86DK)

[Dave_A]

It's finally here...

Now I can finish it without flying to FL to work on it...

A big +1 to uShip.com and Gem City Transport ($1600-ish to move a 
complete KR-2 from the Tampa area to just outside Olympia, WA)

Now, Memorial Day weekend will be spent working on the plane...

P.S. Steve, nvAero - I got the flap handle I bought from you guys, even 
though USPS said they returned it.

KR> RE: Web Sites

[Dave_A]

Google Sites is free & for a build-log, should be fine...

On 5/18/2012 5:46 PM, james ellison wrote:
>
> I purchased a project some years ago.  Most of my building has been very slow.
> I have been a long time member of EAA and the KR net.
> I also have a lot of questions, but first I think I need to set up a WEB site.
> I have looked at some of the WEB building sites, but don't know any thing
> about what to pay for a good one or would free one work ok.
>
> Thanks,
>
>Jim Ellison
> N816JV
>
>   
> ___
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KR> Built up spar? Thoughts on retracts.

[Dave_A]

I'm working on another project (Turner T-40) that uses the laminated 
strip spar with stub wings..

It also calls for an O-235 or larger engine...

The strip-spar is HEAVY. Very HEAVY.

And you do want to have stubs, because (a) it makes your plane 'movable' 
by truck, (b) it's easier to build the wings when you don't have to do 
the entire  span from one piece of wood, and (c) you absolutely do NOT 
want to have your landing gear outboard of your wing joint (assuming 
that you try to join the wings at or inside the fuse).

On 5/13/2012 9:22 AM, Dustin wrote:
> Has anyone considered going with a built up strip spar like is used in a 
> corby starlet over the standard kr style spar? Im looking into ways to make 
> the dihedral start at the fuselage instead of at the an of the stub wings and 
> this seems like the easiest way. I know darren crompton did this with his 
> stub wings but I was thinking about getting rid of the stub wings altogether.
>
> Im also trying to figure out a way to mount retracts. I know everyone here is 
> pretty much against them but if im gonna build my own aircraft why settle. Im 
> thinking getting rid of the stub wings would create quite a bit more space to 
> work with for hiding the gear.
>
> Blessed is the lord my strength which teaches my hands to war and my fingers 
> to fight.
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Fwd: Any of you live in the Seattle/Tacoma/Olympia area?

[Dave_A]

I hired a mover to bring my plane from Florida to Washington...

$1600...

So it will be here by the end of the month...

Just wondering how many other KRnet members are in my neck of the woods...

The plane will be living at Spanaway Airfield...  T-hangar for $150
including tax was kind of hard to beat, esp since I'm spending $70/mo on
a storage room as-is...

I am hoping to have it flying by August.

KR> Testing... KRNet didn't show my last e-mail.

[Dave_A]

1 2 3

KR> Any of you live in the Seattle/Tacoma/Olympia area?

[Dave_A]

I hired a mover to bring my plane from Florida to Washington...

$1600...

So it will be here by the end of the month...

Just wondering how many other KRnet members are in my neck of the woods...

The plane will be living at Spanaway Airfield...  T-hangar for $150 
including tax was kind of hard to beat, esp since I'm spending $70/mo on 
a storage room as-is...

I am hoping to have it flying by August.

KR> (no subject)

[Dave_A]

Paul's e-mail was compromised a few months back...

For all we know, that's from another server 'spoofing' his address...

On 4/29/2012 2:54 PM, RED Robinson wrote:
> this made the krnet ... try changing your password
>
>
>
>
> --- On Sun, 4/29/12, Paul W. Bittengle Jr.  wrote:
>
> From: Paul W. Bittengle Jr.
>

KR> Robin MacDonald - Thanks

[Dave_A]

For the plans.

I now have a complete set of drawings for the KR2 - which will be quite 
useful in finishing/fixing up my plane.

KR> Since we're talking flaps, a flaps question.

[Dave_A]

It's a tube going span-wise, and at the end of the tube, the flap-arm 
has a circular 'clamp' part going around the tube, with a single bolt 
going thru the clamp and tube.

I can drill it one-larger, but I'm looking for solutions to prevent 
re-occurrance of the problem.

On 4/14/2012 5:22 AM, Larry&Sallie Flesner wrote:
> At 01:21 AM 4/14/2012, you wrote:
>> The flap torque-tube on the passenger side has the hole for the flap-arm
>> mounting screw 'oggled out',
> +++
>
> I'm not familiar with the design.  Is it actually a "screw" or a
> "bolt"?  Is there enough metal that you can drill to the next size
> larger and re-attach?
>
> Larry Flesner
>
>
> ___
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KR> Since we're talking flaps, a flaps question.

[Dave_A]

My plane has the stock flaps, and they're one of the last things still 
wrong with the plane.

The flap torque-tube on the passenger side has the hole for the flap-arm 
mounting screw 'oggled out', so that the flap can move up and down a 
small amount despite the tube not being moved. This also results in 
asymetrical flap deployment (the pilot-side flap is not loose in this 
manner, so it goes down 'normally')

Anyone else see this, and if so, what's the best fix?

KR> Gap seal and edging material

[Dave_A]

You should be able to get weatherstripping/rubber trim from AutoZone or 
O'Reileys

On 2/25/2012 5:00 PM, Dan Heath wrote:
> I have seen this but cannot remember what it is called.  I am going to cut a
> rectangular hole in my instrument panel which is .063 aluminum.  I want to
> put a seal around that edge to protect the Ifly that I will insert into that
> hole.  I searched AS with everything I could think of, but could not find
> what I am looking for.
>
>
>
> See N64KR at  http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
> the pics
>
> See you at the 2012 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN - 40th
> Anniversary
>
> There is a time for building and it is over.
>
> Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://mylist.net/private/krnet/
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> MGL dimensions

[Dave_A]

My bird has a BMA EFIS/One, which is a 10" diagonal screen...

It barely fits - I had to actually have it stick out in front of the 
panel, in order to clear one of the crossmembers.

Panel height is one thing the KR-series does not have much of

On 2/20/2012 4:57 PM, Mark Langford wrote:
> Dene Collett wrote:
>
>> If you don't mind me asking, how are you going to fit the Odyssey into your
> panel? That is one HUGE EFIS!<
>
> It's not THAT big...only 12.5" wide and 7.9" tall.  I thought seriously
> about putting one in my plane and it was a tight fit, but it did fit.  It
> has a lot of capability and versatility, but I settled on the Dynon Skyview.
> Fortunately I hadn't ordered it yet when I "changed course" a bit.  Speaking
> of that, I'm flying down to my father's farm shortly in the Swift.  It'll be
> my first landing down there since the hayfield incident...
>
> Mark Langford
> ML at N56ML.com
> website at http://www.N56ML.com
> 
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://mylist.net/private/krnet/
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: wireless ipad EFIS system

[Dave_A]

Further, Android already has the APIs to interface with the required 
instruments, and many of the high-end phones have most of them built in...

My 'Galaxy S 4G' has an accelerometer, attitude sensor, barometer, and 
magnetic compass. The Andoid OS makes these available to apps in a 
generic format, without any HW interfacing required.

The only thing it doesn't have, is a way to read pitot pressure & true 
static air (a/o cockpit static).

Combine those with the built in GPS, and you could get a reasonable 
'backup' EFIS, although you'd still need an altimeter & ASI.

On 2/19/2012 5:01 PM, Rich wrote:
> While I used to be a computer hardware guy by degree and essentially haven't 
> practiced this century I do have a very good phd level software engineered 
> who work for me and we do collaborative development with a world reknown
>   lab at Purdue. I once voiced about changing over to windows based OS from 
> Linux on one of our instruments and the Purdue group looked at me like I had 
> 3 heads and said why move from a stable platform to an unstable MS platform? 
> My phd bought a motorola zoom and using android customizes and makes his own 
> apps effortlessly. If he had design criteria and was tasked with it, i have 
> no doubt he could design a stable EFIS system and not be hindered by Apples 
> development guidelines. Both the Android and Linux platforms allow for easily 
> implemented upgrades and customization and can be supported by independent 
> "shareware" type development groups globally. For the masses who don't know 
> how to type a URL in directly but rather always utilize google for their 
> portal onto the web, MS and Apple are perfect.
>
> For anyone who can think, there are better options.
>
> Rich Parker
> Greenfield NH
> Kr2s
> Unfortunately most of my PIC time over the past 10 years had been "Passenger 
> In Coach"
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://mylist.net/private/krnet/
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
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KR> wireless ipad EFIS system

[Dave_A]

On 2/18/2012 5:11 PM, Jose Fuentes wrote:
> I'm holding out for versions that will run on Windows 8 tablets as that
> hardware will be 10x better then what apple is producing (USB, is one good
> example).
>
> Plus with a much improved and finger friendly version of windows using .NET
> for ARM processors we will see an explossion of software that will swamp
> whatever was done for the Ipad/Iphone.
>
> I know you guys aren't into software developement, but one of the things
> that keeps software from exploding as much as it could have is the limited
> and trouble some development lanugage of Objective C, trust me it's a PITA.
> Anyways, not much longer so if you are not flying you might want to hold
> onto that cash because there is some seriously cool stuff coming this year.
>
> Joe
>
Based on Microsoft's abysmal record with anything that's not a PC, I'd 
bet on Android over Windows 8, personally

KR> fuse skins

[Dave_A]

Any filler compound is going to add alot of weight, given what you 
describe...

Re-skin it...

On 2/13/2012 7:37 AM, robert gill wrote:
> Robert GillHi, I have a question about the best way to surface and level the 
> ply fuse skins aft of the cockpit area without adding to much weight, the 
> skins have bowed inward up to 3/8" in some ares particularly just under the 
> top stringer, should  I glass the skin first with deck cloth then use foam to 
> build the areas out then lay another layer of deck cloth over the areas that 
> have been leveled out, or put the foam straight on the ply skin then glass 
> over that, or glass the ply skin as before and just keep filling with micro 
> until the surfaces are flat and smooth ( how thick can you go with micro? ), 
> or does any one else have a better idea.  
>   
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://mylist.net/private/krnet/
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
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KR> 40th Anniversary Gathering

[Dave_A]

I'll hold off registering until I know if my plane will be flying...

I'm a landing gear retrofit, carb swap, and elevator repair away right 
now And I have to find time to get back to FL and work on it, once I 
get home from the 'Stan...

On 2/13/2012 5:27 PM, Mark Jones wrote:
> I just looked at the pre-registration for the Gathering and see we only have 
> 12 KR's committed to fly in so far and only 21 people total have registered. 
> Come on guys, what's up with that. We need 40 KR's minimum. Time is getting 
> near as we only have 228 days till the Gathering. It will be here before 
> faster than you think. Come on, let's get going and get yourself committed 
> and registered. All KR's that are flown in will receive a special 40th 
> Anniversary placard to mount in your plane. It will be similar to the one we 
> gave out at the 35th Anniversary. Langford will have to paint "I'm really a 
> KR" on the vertical stabilizer of his Swift to get one.
>
>
> Mark Jones (N886MJ)
> Stevens Point, WI
> E-mail: flyk...@charter.net
> Web: www.flykr2s.com
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://mylist.net/private/krnet/
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> RE: Weight Testing.

[Dave_A]

That's a great idea - and yet another use for that particular piece of 
luggage...

As a bonus, the straps on the duffle can be used to further secure it to 
your passenger seat, if you have a seat with a back, anyhow...


On 2/13/2012 6:05 PM, Robert7721 wrote:
> Dan,
>
> I used an Army duffle bag and filled it up with read mix cement bags, one at 
> a time progressing up to the max weight. Duffle bag was secured with the 
> passenger seat belt. I did not do any stalls with the max weight - didn't 
> want any unneccessarity suprises. Worked fine.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rob Schmitt
> N1852Z
>
>
>
>
> From: "Dan Heath"
> Subject: KR>  Weight Testing
> To: "'KRnet'"
> Message-ID:<01cce987$0e046e90$2a0d4bb0$@net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I believe that to satisfy your gross weight, you must test the plane to that
> gross weight along with a W&B of the plane at the time of the test.  I still
> need to test my plane to the 1200 # gross weight that I have arbitrarily set
> for it.  I tried to go to the EAA site for help, but they have so many log
> ins for so many different parts of the web site that I could not find
> anything.
>
>
>
> So my question to all you who are currently flying your KR and have
> established your Gross Weight, how did you test for that weight?  I think it
> is a very scary thing to fill your cabin with heavy junk, so I know there
> must be a safe way, but I have never heard it discussed.
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://mylist.net/private/krnet/
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
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KR> Weight Testing

[Dave_A]

Sandbags strapped into the co-pilot seat spot, full fuel & a full 35lb 
suitcase (or whatever your baggage limit is) in your baggage area is 
probably the most realistic method I can think of

I bought a program called 'winn balance' to do my initial W&B stuff, 
when I get to that point... It costs $14.99, and uses the readout from 3 
bathroom scales to compute W&B numbers.

On 2/12/2012 5:35 PM, Dan Heath wrote:
> I believe that to satisfy your gross weight, you must test the plane to that
> gross weight along with a W&B of the plane at the time of the test.  I still
> need to test my plane to the 1200 # gross weight that I have arbitrarily set
> for it.  I tried to go to the EAA site for help, but they have so many log
> ins for so many different parts of the web site that I could not find
> anything.
>
>
>
> So my question to all you who are currently flying your KR and have
> established your Gross Weight, how did you test for that weight?  I think it
> is a very scary thing to fill your cabin with heavy junk, so I know there
> must be a safe way, but I have never heard it discussed.
>
>
>
>
>
> See N64KR at  http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on
> the pics
>
> See you at the 2012 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il - MVN - 40th
> Anniversary
>
> There is a time for building and it is over.
>
> Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://mylist.net/private/krnet/
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> solid centre wing spar

[Dave_A]

The bend would be at the fuselage-stub-wing joint.

I've got another project (Turner T-40) that uses such a design - a solid 
center-spar of laminations, bent at a 5-degree angle on each side, where 
the side exits the fuselage.

On 2/9/2012 7:18 PM, GaryH wrote:
> Bill,
> This is an interesting thought and I like the idea.  Where would the "bend"
> be located along the spar?  How would you carve or contour the foam over a
> complex curve?
>
> Anyone,
> On another note, I've read in the plans that one layer of 5.6 oz glass cloth
> is used for covering.  It seems this is a bit light.  What has been
> everyone's experience?
>
> Regards,
> Gary
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
> Of ol' weirdo
> Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2012 8:01 AM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: KR>  solid centre wing spar
>
> Mr. Wade, If you are going to build a solid centre wing spar of laminates
> you might bend them so there is no change of angfle where the outer wing
> panels joins the centre section.
>
> Bill Wer
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://mylist.net/private/krnet/
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
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>
>
> ___
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KR> Radio License Requirement

[Dave_A]

In the USA, there is NO LONGER a requirement to license air-band radios.

Other countries may vary.

On 1/24/2012 5:54 AM, Virgil N. Salisbury wrote:
>
>   A-Airworthyness
>   R-Registration
>   R-Radio
>   O-Operations
>   W-Weight and Balance
>   Virg
>
>
>   On 1/23/2012 8:57 PM, Lee Parker wrote:
>> No
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>> From: Sid Wood
>> To: kr...@mylist.net
>> Sent: Monday, January 23, 2012 8:05 PM
>> Subject: KR>   Radio License Requirement
>>
>> Does the KR-2 aircraft have to a radio license for an airworthiness
>> certificate?  If so, for which radios?  If the aircraft has 2 VHF radios,
>> does it need to have 2 licenses? Does the transponder need a license?
>>
>> Sid Wood
>> Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
>> Mechanicsville, MD, USA
>> smw...@md.metrocast.net
>>
>>
>> ___
>> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
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>> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
>> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>>
>
> ___
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> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
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KR> Rotec

[Dave_A]

The 'spray bar' fuel delivery originated with the Ellison unit, A/O 
POSA-style units that use a solid tapered needle.

Both Rotec & Ellison have the fuel flow tied to airflow through the 
unit, so there is no puddling (a/o POSA derivatives, which did not 
address the issue because it wasn't much of an issue for a motorcycle 
installation, which is what POSAs originally were used for)



On 1/18/2012 11:41 AM, Lee Parker wrote:
> One thing I like about the Rotec is that when you shut down the engine there 
> is on fuel leaking out the bottom of the throttle body, even if you don't 
> lean the mixture.  You just hit the prime button on the regulator one time 
> and the engine is good to start for the rest of the day.  Usually starts on 
> the second or third turn.  My engine never ran so smooth.  I like it so far.  
> I have not used the Ellison very much so I don't really know a lot about it.  
> I know Mark Lankford had one on his plane.  The Rotec has 50 tiny holes in 
> the center bar that atomizes the fuel so you don't end up with droplets in 
> the cylinder or uneven fuel distribution to the cylinders.  That probably is 
> the reason my EGTs are so close.
>
>
>
> 
>   From: Rudi Venter
> To: KRnet
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2012 11:43 AM
> Subject: KR>  Rotec
>
> Interesting Steve!
>
> I did not realize the AeroCarb was a close copy of the EFS-2! I am
> running an EFS-2 on my 2.4 VW but I am looking at upgrading it to an
> EFS-3 as I think it might be restricting the airflow a bit at the moment.
>
> I wonder if the AeroCarb would be an option? I suppose I need to look at
> throat diameter. Fitting an EFS-3 would be easier though as the linkages
> would be similar to my current setup as shown here:
>
> http://zu-avb.hopto.org/ZS-VYZ/img_3378_std.jpg
>
> Fly safe,
> Rudi
>
> On 1/18/2012 6:04 PM, STEVE bennett wrote:
>> Just a small note, the Rotec carb, is not a fuel injection system, nor fuel 
>> injector when compared to what a modern day automotive fuel injection system 
>> is.  It is a knock off of the Ellison series of carburetors.  Their web site 
>> does say " fuel injection", if you read down the page a bit.  When Monnett 
>> came out with his AeroCarb, a POSA knock off, is killed the sales of the 
>> EFS-2, so Ben Ellison ceased production of that particular carb.  Ellison 
>> Fluid Systems still manufacutrers all the other carbs.
>>
>> Steve Bennett
>>
>
> ___
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KR> Rotec

[Dave_A]

Also, from appearances, the Rotec is pretty much a direct Ellison clone

Of course, Ellison also calls their EFS system (including the 'vw-sized' 
EFS-2) a 'throttle body injector', too - as do all of the POSA-knockoff 
MFGs

IIRC, the closest thing to a *REAL* throttle-body injector, is the 
Bendix PS-series of 'pressure carburetor' (from which the mechanical 
multipoint fuel injection system found on certificated engines was 
derived) - of which there isn't really a size suited to engines as small 
as the VWs

Personally, I've managed to obtain an EFS-2, and that's what I'll be 
using to replace the SuperCarb/POSA that came with my plane.

On 1/18/2012 10:04 AM, STEVE bennett wrote:
> Just a small note, the Rotec carb, is not a fuel injection system, nor fuel 
> injector when compared to what a modern day automotive fuel injection system 
> is.  It is a knock off of the Ellison series of carburetors.  Their web site 
> does say " fuel injection", if you read down the page a bit.  When Monnett 
> came out with his AeroCarb, a POSA knock off, is killed the sales of the 
> EFS-2, so Ben Ellison ceased production of that particular carb.  Ellison 
> Fluid Systems still manufacutrers all the other carbs.
>
> http://www.rotecradialengines.com/TBI/TBI.htm
>
> http://ellison-fluid-systems.com/injectors.shtml
>
> Steve Bennett
>
>   
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Project Log Website, Try 2

[Dave_A]

New site is http://dcacklam.comoj.com/

Google sites is kind of messed up, so I just copied the page over to a 
new provider

Will de-googlify it later today...

This is all of what I've done with my plane - text & pics...

KR> Working on the project-log website reminded me... Flap Linkage issue...

[Dave_A]

The flaps on my plane are connected by way of a hole through the flap 
tube on each side, allowing a bolt to go through matching holes in the 
flap-control-arm.

On one side, this hole has become oblong, allowing that flap to move a 
bit independently of the other one These parts are aluminum as best 
I can tell, and in somewhat close-quarters to wood, glass & foam, so 
getting them welded is not going to be a viable solution

I'm assuming 'a hole through the control arm & tube, with an AN bolt 
through that' is the normal way to do this Or is there a 
bearing-type configuration, or some other common way to deal with 
wobbling flaps due to wallowed-out holes?

KR> Website for my project & the work I did in FL

[Dave_A]

https://sites.google.com/site/daveakr2/

KR> Propellers

[Dave_A]

Another 'bit' from my last week's work on the plane:

One tip of the wood prop has about a 3" crack in it going through all 
but the last outer ply 'skin' on the back of the prop.

It's a 53" prop, on an 1835 (presumably HAPI) VW.

1) Is repairing such a crack safe/economical, and if so, how does one go 
about doing it?

2) What is the 'normal' range of prop dimensions for a KR-2 with an 
1835? Eg, how do I determine what to replace this prop with, if fixing 
it is out the window?

KR> "Paul W. Bittengle Jr."

[Dave_A]

Appears to be the 'fake antivirus' one

Bad news if you get it...

On 1/12/2012 10:58 AM, Wayne wrote:
>> Date: Jan 11, 2012 9:28 PM
>>
>> From: "Paul W. Bittengle Jr."
>>
>> Subject: KR>  (no subject)
>>
>> http://jessesiegel.com/simpleviewer/tmp/search.php?how128.png
>>
>> ___
> DO NOT click on this link!!
>
> It is some sort of trojan.
> don't know what it does, but it can't be good.
> My AVG anti-virus blocked it so it must be a known baddie..
>
> I suspect that Paul W. had nothing to do with this and his login has
> been hijacked.
>
> Wayne D.
> Charotte,NC
>
> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1901 / Virus Database: 2109/4738 - Release Date: 01/12/12
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Regulator/rectifier to electric system hookup

[Dave_A]

Yes.

Don't know make/model, but it's vintage 1986 or so...

Hence, I can't find anything at all on the 'Synchro' brand regulator and 
rectifier that are currently hooked up to it...

The only vehicle I've gotten this 'involved' with electrically, is an 
old motorcycle, and it used an all-in-one unit like the one on Mark 
Langford's site...

I've gotten my the rest of my electrical system done - tested it out 
tonight using a bench-top power supply - I just need to figure out the 
charging-system portion, so I can make the appropriate connections

UPS bungled the delivery of half of my order from Aircraft Spruce, so 
I've had plenty of time to concentrate on 'other systems', as I can't 
quite repair my elevator (The one major structural problem) with no 
glass or epoxy...

Tomorrow is my last day working on the plane, then it's back to 
Wisconsin

- Dave

On 1/11/2012 5:50 PM, Dan Heath wrote:
> You do have a VW engine, right?
>
> If you don't get an answer, I will take a pics of my VW  and
> regulator/rectifier that is waiting for a buyer and send them to you.
>
> See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics
> See you at the 2012 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN ? 40th
> Anniversary
> There is a time for building and it is over.
> Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
>
>
> -Original Message-
>
> Photo shows wires out of older diehl case (2 black, 1 red) going
> seperate 'synchro' regulatot and rectifier (reg is the closer one to
> me)...
>
> 2 white wires one from rect, 1 from the black out of the reg) are
> connected to nothing (the plane *had* an electrical sys until someone
> cut it out)...
>
> How do I get 12v out (which wire) and where do the 2 whites go?
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Engine compartment temp

[Dave_A]

I seem to remember Cessna 172s having the battery under the cowl... 
Works for them...

Personally, I'm putting mine up there simply for weight/balance purposes 
- the more weight forward of the CG, the less likely I end up with a 
tail-heavy plane.

On 1/10/2012 9:30 PM, jeffyor...@yahoo.com wrote:
> I have mine mounted on the firewall. You have baffeling that seal the engine 
> area away from the direct heat of the engine. I believe most or many of the 
> KR's out there have their batteries mounted on the firewall.
>
> Jeff York
> KR2
> Georgetown Scott county FAA airport of the year
> 2010 KR Gathering Peoples Choice and Best Interior
> 2011 Air Fest Best Experimental, Best Instrument Panel
>
> Sent from my HTC smartphone on the Now Network from Sprint!
>
> - Reply message -
> From: "Derek Lewis"
> To: "kr...@mylist.net"
> Subject: KR>  Engine compartment temp
> Date: Tue, Jan 10, 2012 9:18 pm
>
>
> Has anyone checked their engine compartment temp?  I was planning on mounting 
> my battery to the firewall behind the engine, but the battery says to not 
> heat it past 140 F.  I am worried the temp may get to hot to mount it there.  
> I could always insulate the box, but will add more weight.  Any ideas or info 
> would be great.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Derek Lewis
> KR-2 85%ish
> 
> 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33
> The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried
> http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL3231/4f0cf0097d04e137476fst06vuc
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> test

[Dave_A]

I had similar issues a few weeks ago, but now all my posts seem to go 
through...

And yes, posts from 'Glen Gmail' are getting through

On 1/7/2012 2:24 PM, Barrett wrote:
> Stop grumbling and get to work!   :)
> -Barrett
>
> -Original Message-
> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
> Of Glenn Gmail
> Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2012 12:18 PM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: KR>  test
>
> Test. If this is working , Thank you Mark. If its notGRUMBLE

KR> Continuing work,

[Dave_A]

Thanks to all who responded to my 'Day One' post...

Day Two was spent doing the nose-gear strut & buying some 
wood/incidentals... In the process, I pretty much confirmed what you all 
told me... Stock main gear can't be converted, it has to be replaced, as 
the Diehl nose-wheel is too tall to work with stock gear - reversing 
doesn't add enough height

That means the plane stays a tail-dragger for now,, simply so I can move 
it around while working on everything else, and saving the landing gear 
work for next trip... I'll also need a new prop (or repair of the 
existing one - a 53x(something) with cracking on one tip), and a new 
(Crosspipe-less) exhaust (probably fabricated from the cut-up remains of 
the old one)... Won't be able to do any of that this time...

'Everything else' is solid-foam core patches & re-glassing that 
delaminated elevator... Sanding away cracked/chipped paint areas & 
touching up (a full repaint will wait until I get the plane home - not a 
safety-of-flight issue. I'm mainly worried about paint-chipping because 
it could be hiding faults in the glass) Fixing the hole torn in the side 
of the rudder... Making a new instrument panel (Steam gauge holes & 
vinyl out, EFIS monitor in (the CPU is separate, and will be mounted to 
the turtledeck), and less panel in the knee area)... And various other 
fixes (that lawnmower-throttle elevator trim system)...

I'm keeping the gokart/dunebuggy seats - there's only about 3" from the 
seat-surface to the floor, and there's another crossmember just like the 
one my knees hit up front, right behind the seat-backs - so sitting 
further back isn't going to work.  The one reason I might have changed 
them - trying to save the stock main gear - is out of the picture now.

KR> N86DK..... Gear & Foam-repaid

[Dave_A]

I did the nose gear strut today - and a bunch of other stuff that had to 
be done to make room: the existing exhaust had to go, but it was a very 
poor (read: fire hazard) design, so no loss there (although I plan to 
use the parts I cut up to make a new exhaust), and a few other things 
too - but all of it was stuff that 'had to go' anyway It's also much 
easier to install/remove engine mount bolts when you have a 
cherry-picker

With that done, it has become apparent that the stock retracts are 
useless for anything but the stock gear configuration (as you said) - 
specifically, even at 'minimum height', the nose-gear is too tall (to 
the point where with wheel & tire, you would be sitting in a 
tail-dragger ground attitude, on tri-gear . I'm buying Diehl mains from 
another member, and will be using those instead.

As for patching holes, if I use foam sheets for my replacement core 
material, what kind should I use? Will foam-board insulation work? I

I cut away the de-laminated skin on the elevator, and found a curious 
mix of a somewhat light/fragile yellow foam (similar to what the rest of 
this plane is made of, and one small area of what can only be described 
as packing-material style white styrofoam (although it looked sprayed 
in) Yeuck

At this point, I plan on taking the board's advice, and doing a 
core-replacement patch with solid sheets rather than a fill-patch with 
Great Stuff

I just need to know what type of foam to use, or if it makes a 
difference (the pink wall-insulation sheets are the first thing that 
came to my mind as a source of foam - and there's a Home Depot right by 
where I'm working on the plane)

Epoxy resin & glass-cloth I can get from any of the boat supply stores 
in the area (Gulf Coast of FL - no shortage of boat shops)

- Dave

On 1/7/2012 12:23 PM, Larry&Sallie Flesner wrote:
> At 11:07 AM 1/7/2012, you wrote:
>> 2) Gear: I've already bought the Diehl nose-gear kit. The
>> 'reverse-the-mains' thing is just my attempt to save some time&  money
>> by re-using the existing gear (but making it fixed, not retract)&  the
>> existing holes in the spar. If that can't be done, I'll buy Mr Root's
>> set of (assembled) Diehl mains that he's selling here.
> ++
>
> Using the retracts in a "reverse" mode will require more work than
> installing Diehl main gear as the wheel / ground contact point on a
> tri gear must be behind the main spar by several inches.  Also, check
> the height of the retracts compared to Diehl gear for an acceptable
> three point attitude.  I can't see this as a "workable"
> solution.  Also, I'd be leery of the expanding foam as a fix as there
> is no way to tell when it will quit expanding.  I would suggest
> cutting out the damaged area with a dremel, removing the foam down to
> the skin on the opposite side, glue in a solid block of foam to fill
> the void, and glass repair the area.  Just my humble opinion...
>
> Larry Flesner
> P.S.  Also, the Diehl setup is lighter than all the retract hardware.
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> First day working with N86DK..... - Cumulative replies.

[Dave_A]

Thanks to everyone who's replied so far Collective responses below.

1) Engine ID: Photos are here:  
http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x198/dcacklam/KR2%20Pics/Engine/
Diehl case, SuperCarb  Plane was built in 1986, IIRC there were more 
folks in business making aero-VW motors back then...

2) Gear: I've already bought the Diehl nose-gear kit. The 
'reverse-the-mains' thing is just my attempt to save some time & money 
by re-using the existing gear (but making it fixed, not retract) & the 
existing holes in the spar. If that can't be done, I'll buy Mr Root's 
set of (assembled) Diehl mains that he's selling here. The entire 
tailwheel assembly comes off today & the steering cables will be cut off 
of the rudder cables

3) Longerons/crosspiece/etc:

No, he didn't drill or screw into the longerons to put that brace there 
- it's glued with triangular blocks at each corner. The only 
penetrations of wood in the cockpit area, are the hinge for the canopy, 
and 2 angles used to fasten the instrument panel  to the 'boat'. Both of 
these are into the 'inner' strip of longeron wood (the longerons on this 
perticular plane are constructed of 2 pieces of bent wood glued together 
side-by-side, and all of the hardware penetrations go into the inner 
one, with the outer left in tact).

I don't know if this is 'standard' KR or not, but on this plane the 
entire upper-nose section (windscreen, fuel tank, panel - everything 
above the 'boat' in front of the pilot) is DETATCHABLE - it's held in by 
3 nut-plates on either side (mounted to the skin (with aluminum backing 
plates), not the longerons). Hence I assumed that the brace was 
structural & part of the design (and thus something that needs to be 
preserved).

4) Avionics - the MGL radios nVAero sells are in fact quite nice, but a 
bit out of my price range for now...  My immediate goal is to get the 
plane safe & airworthy enough to ferry it home from FLA (so I can stop 
paying $70/mo in storage fees, and so I have access to the tools & 
facilities where I live (A/o whatever I can rig up in the uhaul 
yard)  A functional 720ch analog nav/com (as backup to the EFIS GPS) 
& the EFIS will accomplish this for me. That said, if I had the money & 
the plane was in my garage vs the uhaul lot, I'd have an MGL panel...

5) Glass/foam repair - Epoxy Resin it is... Which means boat store, 
around here...
As for what to do to fix the damage, I do have some experience with that 
thanks to my prior MOS (airframe mechanic) - it's just a matter of 
figuring out what materials & specific requirements the KR has... When I 
did this in the Army, we had TMs for each aircraft to tell us what was 
repairable & how to do it... Here? You guys (the experienced builders) 
are the TM (esp since this bird didn't come with it's RR plans/manual, 
and you all are far more used to working with wood/foam than I am)...

The expanding foam is something I came up with as the best 'in place' 
filler for the punched-out section of rudder (it's a 3.5"x1.5" area of 
damage on the bottom right side of the rudder, from improper 
trailer-loading - cloth/resin is torn open & there is some damage to the 
underlying foam (does not seem to be any wood structure in the area - 
just foam/glass). Plan is to fill the foam damage with expanding foam, 
clamp over with wax-paper (as a peel-ply) & a plywood backer, let cure, 
then glass over the foam repair once it is no longer expanding.

I am involved with my local EAA chapter - I have another project (T-40AS 
- all wood, Lycoming powered) that I've been working on before this - I 
just picked up this KR because it's alot closer to 'flyable' (and alot 
easier to store, not being Cessna-sized) than said long-term project. 
But that's back home, not in FL.


On 1/7/2012 12:06 AM, Dave_A wrote:
> For those following, I bought a KR2 while over in Afganhistan...
>
> I'm on R&R now, and I flew down to FL to get started on making it
> flyable&  set up the way I want...
>
> Pics are posted at
> http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x198/dcacklam/KR2%20Pics/ (see
> sub-albums (left side of webpage) for engine&  other details)
>
> Things I knew before I came down here: The plane came with no avionics.
> I have radios&  a BMA EFIS One (yes, I know, they're out of business,
> but when it comes to scrounging an EFIS (or primary instruments) that
> will fit in a KR's panel, and my budget... ) to fix that... Also, the
> taildragger thing... Working on that too...
>
> The plane appears to have been painted with plain old rattlecan acrylic
> spraypaint (1986 variety)... Said paint is cracked&  peeling off all
> over... So I'll be sanding it off&  touch

KR> First day working with N86DK.....

[Dave_A]

For those following, I bought a KR2 while over in Afganhistan...

I'm on R&R now, and I flew down to FL to get started on making it 
flyable & set up the way I want...

Pics are posted at 
http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x198/dcacklam/KR2%20Pics/ (see 
sub-albums (left side of webpage) for engine & other details)

Things I knew before I came down here: The plane came with no avionics. 
I have radios & a BMA EFIS One (yes, I know, they're out of business, 
but when it comes to scrounging an EFIS (or primary instruments) that 
will fit in a KR's panel, and my budget... ) to fix that... Also, the 
taildragger thing... Working on that too...

The plane appears to have been painted with plain old rattlecan acrylic 
spraypaint (1986 variety)... Said paint is cracked & peeling off all 
over... So I'll be sanding it off & touching up with an epoxy-based 
paint

The right elevator (as viewed from behind the plane) looks good - 
although I have a question as to weather the red-brown substance (See 
photo with my hand in it, in the 'elevator' album) chipping off of it is 
delaminated structure, or just red-brown automotive primer. The 
left, OTOH, is a mess - a huge delamination bubble on the lower surface, 
plastic stuck to the resin & painted over, and the upper surface seems 
to have had almost no sanding before being painted...

There's damage to the rudder from where the prior owner struck part of 
his trailer trying to load the plane up... Easily fixable though

With that said, I have some questions for the community:

1) Can anyone help me identify which engine I have - both in CCs and 
manufacture (HAPI, Revmaster, roll-your-own-VW-conversion from an actual 
beetle)? All I can tell is that it's a VW-style with a diehl case & 
slick mag, and the carb is a POSA Supercarb (POSA + Mixture)...

2) The plane used to have a starter, now it has a block off plate... Do 
I have to buy the starter from Great Plains, or is there an 
alternate/common-automotive source for a starter that fits the Diehl case?

3) Is polyurethane resin (bondo-brand fiberglass resin) compatible with 
the adhesives commonly used to build the KR, or should I be thinking 
more in a boat-supply (eg West System - and if so which one/ones) vs 
auto-parts direction? I'm intending to fix the (small) glass/foam damage 
to the rudder using expanding foam & fiberglass cloth, and there are a 
few delaminations that need to be addressed Not having built the 
plane myself, I'm wondering what the consensus is on repair adhesives 
(epoxy vs polyurethane vs (something else))...

4) The crosspiece behind the instrument panel, shown in 
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x198/dcacklam/KR2%20Pics/FE3B3553-orig.jpg, 
hits my knees...  I assume this is an important part of the 'boat' 
structure, so it can't just be removed.

I am wondering if replacing it with a taller board (and giving up some 
panel space), with 'arches' cut in it to accommodate a more comfortable 
flying position, would cause any problems... See 
http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x198/dcacklam/KR2%20Pics/KneeMod.png 
for sketch...


If you've gotten this far, thanks... I know it's a long post, but it's 1 
day worth of looking/planning/etc, then coming back to the computer to 
write it all up

KR> Opinion on O-290

[Dave_A]

O-290 is a bit big... Fuel burn of a 320 without the HP.

O-290s - specifically the GPU variety converted to aircraft use - were 
once used for the 'next size up from a KR' scratch-built birds (T-18, 
T-40, etc)...  Most of these designs, if built today, now use 320s. If 
you see an O-290 on ebay, most likely it either is or was an O-290G at 
one point (different mounts, 1 mag (2nd plug hole plugged with a bolt), 
and a special GPU sump and carbeurator)... The actual certified motors 
(And the 'right' certified parts) are somewhat rare now. Folks converted 
them to aircraft use by machining the mounts for 235-style conical 
mounts, adding a 2nd mag, and installing the appropriate aircraft 
sump/carb/etc (from a 235 or 320)

As the 'missing link' between the narrow-deck O-320 and the O235, it 
will take some parts from those motors, but also has some unique ones of 
it's own...

On 1/6/2012 4:18 PM, Rodger Nicolls wrote:
> Netters,
> What are your opinions on using an O-290-D Lycoming for the KR2-S?
> (approximately 230-260 lbs dry weight and 125hp at 2600 and 130hp at 2800).
> The weight is about the same as the Corvair, but the horsepower is a bit
> more. What do you think?
>
> Rodger
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Re: Diehl Nose Gear Spacer

[Dave_A]

I have a new-in-packaging Diehl gear assembly waiting for me in FL

I'll let you know how thick the spacer is, when I get down there & get 
started installing it...

On 1/5/2012 9:24 PM:
> From: Chris corbine
> Netters,
>
> There is a spacer (thick washer) that goes between the pivot and the tire
> yoke. Could someone please give me the dimensions of this spacer? I am
> primarily concerned with the thickness any other information would be
> greatly appreciated.
>
> Thank You,
> Chris Corbine
> N5834-Porkopolis
>
>
>
>
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> Going to FL tomorrow, get to see the plane for the first time in person...

[Dave_A]

Right now, N86DK is in a UHaul shed, where I had the last owner put it 
while I was in Afganhistan

Photos from the E-Bay auction show a complete, once-flying/FAA 
registered KR2 taildragger, missing only avionics/instruments and a few 
switches, and in need of some paint touch-up. Built in 1986, in from 
what I can tell is 'stock' configuration (the plane didn't come with 
it's plans,  and the builder/last man to fly it is dead (old age, not 
plane related), so I'm not entirely sure)

I'm on my way to FL tomorrow (having come home on R&R leave) to spend 
the next 5 days working on the plane

I'll probably have a few good photos, and some questions (how to ID the 
make of VW engine, and such) coming up

- Dave

KR> steel and aluminum protection--suggestions?

[Dave_A]

Alodyne works for aluminum

epoxy primer or zinc-chromate will work for both.

On 12/26/2011 10:38 PM, Dave McCauley wrote:
> To protect aluminum, try Alodine, a surface treatment that provides a layer
> of corrosion resistance.  You just paint it on.  Paint will bond to it.
>
> If you're willing to do a little chemistry and have a 12 volt battery
> charger, try anodizing your aluminum parts.  The advantage of this process
> is it's cheap - only thing you buy is battery acid and some aluminum wire.
> You can also dye your finished parts any color you like.  Down side is that
> working with acid is troublesome and messy.
>
> Dave McCauley
>
> -Original Message-
> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On Behalf
> Of Craig Williams
> Sent: Sunday, December 25, 2011 6:03 PM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR>  steel and aluminum protection--suggestions?
>
> Powder coat can be cheap if done yourself.
>
> Here is my system:  http://www.kr2seafury.com/2.html
>
> www.harborfreight.com/ has all you need but the oven
>
> OR I use the Craftsman gun...Ebay Item number:320695170539
>
> Some folks believe it covers to good and flaws in welds will not appear if
> powder coated but I think the hard shell finish will crack if your welds
> crack so I powder coated my gear.
>
> MERRY CHRISTMAS
>
> Craig
> www.kr2seafury.com
> Corvair 2780
>
>   
>
>
> 
>   From: "bdazzca...@aol.com"
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Sent: Sunday, December 25, 2011 5:25 PM
> Subject: Re: KR>  steel and aluminum protection--suggestions?
>
> its kinda the expensive route but I plan on powder coating mine.
>
> David Swanson
> Tucson AZ
>
>
> In a message dated 12/25/2011 3:38:52 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
> jersi...@gmail.com writes:
>
>
>>Hello all, and Merry Christmas--
> I just received my wing attach  fittings from the shop and am wondering if
> any of you have specific  recommendations for protecting 4130
> steel--specific types of paint or  protective coatings that you particularly
> like and trust.
>
> I'd also  appreciate any specific suggestions for aluminum protection.
>> From  Sonex builders' sites I seem to remember there's a zinc chromate
> (?) spray  that people use.  What do you think is best?
>
> Thanks for any  suggestions...
>
> Seth
>
> ___
> Search  the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
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KR> steel and aluminum protection--suggestions?

[Dave_A]

Protection from corrosion?

Primer paint, specifically zinc chromate or epoxy type.

Works for Army helicopters, should work for KR parts.


On 12/26/2011 3:09 AM, Seth and Karen Jersild wrote:
>> Hello all, and Merry Christmas--
> I just received my wing attach fittings from the shop and am wondering
> if any of you have specific recommendations for protecting 4130
> steel--specific types of paint or protective coatings that you
> particularly like and trust.
>
> I'd also appreciate any specific suggestions for aluminum protection.
>   From Sonex builders' sites I seem to remember there's a zinc chromate
> (?) spray that people use.  What do you think is best?
>
> Thanks for any suggestions...
>
> Seth
>
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KR> interface from engine to note book computer

[Dave_A]

Most engine-monitoring software for cars doesn't support direct sensor 
interfacing, but relies on the car's computer system built-in engine 
monitoring, and simply displays the data that's already been collected 
and processed

Apart from aircraft with a FADEC, or auto-powered experimentals running 
modern car engines complete with the OEM (or substitute) engine 
management computer... You need a hardware/software combo that can take 
raw data from whatever specific sensors you use, and convert it into 
graphical displays that make sense to you

Eg, industrial-automation/SCADA equipment, or one of those 'custom' 
packages


On 12/25/2011 7:41 PM, warrong2 wrote:
> I have a hp notebook using APIC software which allows engine monitoring to be
> setup on the screen.  Emailed the company for info on where I can get an
> interface  for this setup. So far no response from company but it is early 
> yet.
> Is there any unit out there that can easily interface engine sensors to my
> computer with out costing the almost $1000.00 they seem to be asking for
> specialized ones. The system uses a gps which I already set up. Works great in
> my vette but Thanks for any info guys.
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KR> Home made EFIS??

[Dave_A]

There were a few projects in the late 90s/early-00s... Not based on a 
flight-sim package, but using PC hardware & running on Windows 9x or 
MS-DOS. And at least one commercial EFIS vendor relied on MS-DOS & PC 
hardware for their system (Blue Mountain).

That said, PC hardware isn't the greatest of ideas right now... Many of 
the higher-end Android devices have a barometer, 3-axis attitude gyro, 
magnetometer/compass, and GPS built in...  So the only things you don't 
have, are a pitot system & a way to get outside static-pressure to the 
barometer (lthe static thing being less of an issue for unpressurized 
designs like the KR, though)...

Theoretically, someone could code a workable 'portable EFIS' using a 
Samsung Galaxy Tab (or Galaxy S, for a 'micro' sized unit), based on 
input from those sensors...

You'd still need an external airspeed indicator, or some sort of 
bluetooth-connected pitot input


On 12/24/2011 6:23 AM, Prototype Mech wrote:
> This is just a wild idea that Ive had, but has anyone heard about a way to 
> convert MicroSoft Flight Simulator X into an EFIS.  With the new, powerful 
> tablets running windows and built-in GPS, and some off the shelf components 
> like MGL's Gyros and Engine monitoring system, I would think a home-made EFIS 
> could supply incredible graphics, better map resolution, smooth performance, 
> and touchscreen, BT mouse, and keyboard interfaces which is unheard of in 
> aviation.  Just a crazy thought. 
>
> Cheers,
> Dave R.
> N37686
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KR> Learning to fly... in a KR?

[Dave_A]

IIRC you can't fly an experimental until you have at least a PPL.

So for solo (At a minimum), they'd have to use a certificated aircraft


On 12/20/2011 9:42 PM, Rich Angel wrote:
> Hi folks,
>   Anyone on the list have any words for an aspiring pilot and KR 
> enthusiast about taking part/all of the private pilot instruction in a KR?
> Thanks,
>
> Rich
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