KR> Update from the archives - Polyester fuel tanks

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

This forum never ceases to amaze me.  I can observe the damage first
hand, interview 
the owner and report exactly what he has told me knowing that he takes at
least
ordinary diligence in his fuel testing, do the repairs in my shop, and
post what 
should be some useful information to the group.  Yet there is always
somebody 
out there that will tell me I don't know what I'm looking at or that the
owner doesn't 
know what he's doing.  It often times makes me wonder why I bother to
post 
anything to this forum.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM


On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 20:17:55 -0800 "Larry Knox" 
writes:
> Mogas (Clear 92 Octane Unleaded) does not hurt any type of Glass or
Poly
> tanks. We carry and sell Mogas at the rate of several thousand Gal a
Month.
> The people that burn it have every kind of handmade tank you can use
and
> have never had a problem of any kind. The problem is ethanol whether
you
> knew you had it or not. I have used it and stored it for 15 years in
glass
> tanks in my spray business before we purchased this FBO 3 years ago and
> installed it here. We have never had a problem except one tank used by
an
> associate that had ethanol in it for less than a month. 
> la...@lebanair.com 

> Jeff wrote:
>  
> I thought I would write an update to this discussion we had in early
October
> regarding polyester fuel tanks.  Especially since I referenced the
polyester
> tip tanks in the Cherokee 235 and Cherokee 6 aircraft as proof of
success
> using polyester resin for fuel tanks.  This week I have a Cherokee 235
in my
> shop and am rebuilding the tip tanks.  The owner bought the Peterson
Autogas
> STC 5 years ago and has been running Mogas in the these tanks for the
last 5
> years.  The owner also states that he has carefully tested for alcohol
every
> time he has purchased mogas to use in his plane, so these tanks have
never
> been exposed to alcohol.

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KR> HAPI Bushes

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

The Continental mount bushings are readily available from Aircraft
Spruce, part number 22387.  Since you're in New Zealand , here's your
contact information.


Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

--
GENERAL INFORMATION | Top
Operated by Lianne Bergin, Aviation & Performance Parts Ltd (Aircraft
Spruce New Zealand) is located in Auckland and serves all sectors of
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Fax: +64-9-476-0985
email: sa...@apparts.co.nz
www.aviationandperformance.co.nz


On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 17:46:18 +1300 Robin Macdonald
 writes:
> Hi Guy's 
> 
> I have a HAPI engine & need a set of rubber mount bushes. Any idea 
> where I can beg borrow or steal a set. ( Apparently Continental 
> bushes)  
> 
> Many thanks 
> 
> Robin 
>  N.Z.

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KR> Intake Manifold on Black Bird

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

The same is true at certain throttle settings on my O-200.  However, one
has to ask why it runs better.  As Mark states below, carb heat improves
the fuel distribution.  However, it doesn't do that by heating the air. 
It improves distribution by disturbing the air flow, adding turbulance to
the air flow.  One can also accomplish the same thing using a turbulator
inside the induction system before the carb.  A disturbed air flow will
mix and distribute the fuel better than a laminar flow.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM


On Sat, 14 Nov 2009 17:56:58 -0600 "Mark Langford" 
writes:
> Dan Heath wrote:
> 
> >   I did run it today, taking
> > the intake air from the carb heat muff, and it is much better.  I 
> may be
> > able to tweak this manifold, to do what I want.  We will see.
> 
> Carb heat is a wonderful thing in the winter, or even fall.  I use it
full 
> time in the dead of winter, and on days like today when I took off at
38F, I 
> used it for the whole four hours of flying.  It improves fuel
distribution 
> and smooths the engine noticeably.   
> 
> Mark Langford
> N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
> website at http://www.N56ML.com
>  

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KR> nice day to fly

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sun, 25 Oct 2009 19:40:32 -0600 Larry Flesner
 writes:
> At 06:06 PM 10/25/2009, you wrote:
> >It was a perfect flying day in the Southeast today,
> >Mark Langford
> +
> 
> I too had great weather today in southern Illinois.  

The Southwest wasn't half bad either.  I flew home from Copperstate
today.  In September and October, my KR has been to Colorado, Nebraska,
Iowa, Minnesota, Illinois, Arkansas, Oklahoma, and back to Los Alamos,
NM.  Last weekend I took it to a Fly In at Ruidoso, NM where I met John
Shafer's daughter and grand daughter.  This weekend I had my KR in the NV
Aero booth in Casa Grande, AZ at the Copperstate Fly in.  BTW, Steve is
doing some really nice work making the former Diehl and Rand parts.  I
was invited to put my KR in the flying showcase at Copperstate, so got to
go fly a number of passes for the Copperstate crowd Saturday afternoon. 
I flew to Payson, AZ for breakfast today, then back home to Los Alamos
again with a few scattered rain and snow showers near home.  This trip
makes 36.5 hours logged in my KR over the last 2 months, and roughly 780
hours on the plane.

I got a laugh from Larry Flesner's "Unlimited visibility and clear below
12K."  We had that too, meaning I had 1500 feet crossing the 10,500'
mountains with the cloud bottoms at 12,000'. :o)

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

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KR> Elevator length

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

I extended the rudder 3" at the bottom and 1" at the top.  -Jeff


On Fri, 16 Oct 2009 08:07:39 -0700 "Fred Johnson" 
writes:
> Jeff, what is significant mean on your rudder size?
> 
> Fred Johnson
> Reno, NV
> 
> 
> Jeff Scott wrote:
> 
> FWIW, I also added to the cord of the rudder, which also made a
> significant improvement to the ability to slip the plane and made a 
> big
> improvement to the crosswind landing capability of the aircraft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

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KR> Elevator length

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

I haven't seen any replies to this question, so I'll give my opinion and
reference the testing I've done.  Please refer to http://jscott.comlu.com
and follow the link to the KR page.  There's a lot more detail there.  

I flew my KR with the stock 72" tail for 500 hrs.  Then I cut the tail
off and built a 96" span tail using the 0009 airfoil provided on Mark's
web site.  I've flown the plane another 300 hours since then.  I can't
think of any other KR that has flown with both tails.  In short, the
additional tail horizontal stab adds significantly to the pitch stability
of the plane.  It is a rock solid hands off flyer when properly trimmed. 
Map folding or shifting around in the seat is no longer an aerobatic
experience.  It also added significantly to the control pressures, (also
refered to as control or pilot feedback).  No more super light stick that
is easily over controlled.  It is still very light and quick as compared
to a certificated aircraft, but has a significant feel to the stick.  It
has a good feel to it at slow and cruise speeds, and the elevator is
actually a bit heavy when the speeds get up around 200+ mph, which, in my
opinion, is a desirable feature.

I've been told that I wasted my time, was ruining the "sporty" feel of my
KR, and that I had no idea what I was doing.  But I don't know of anyone
else that has done the same testing and can discuss or demonstrate the
results.

FWIW, I also added to the cord of the rudder, which also made a
significant improvement to the ability to slip the plane and made a big
improvement to the crosswind landing capability of the aircraft.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM


On Thu, 15 Oct 2009 18:00:27 EDT bdazzca...@aol.com writes:
> Hey netters,
>  
> I was just curious on  how long people are making their 
> elevators. 
> I think I made mine 84" and  that's including 5" each side for the 
> balance 
> tabs. Is this too excessive or  about right for stability?
>  
>  
>  
> David Swanson
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

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KR> RE: vinyester vs polyester

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Fri, 2 Oct 2009 17:46:07 +1000 "Phillip Matheson"
 writes:
> Fred,
> 
> Polyester should work just fine.  That's what Piper used to build 
> the tip 
> tanks on the Cherokee 235 and Cherokee 6.  Polyester has it's 
> difficulties 
> in certain applications, but it works quite well for a fuel tank.
> 
> --
> 
> DO NOT USE Polyester!Do you REALLY want to take the

> chance?
> 
> DO a test yourself and let us know your results!
> put some polyester in some avgas and ULP.
> 
> I would only USE Vinyl Ester. ( not Epoxy)  unless the manufacture says
it's 
> OK. not someone else.
> 
> Too many people have had problems with epoxy, I have seen what 
> leaking tanks 
> on a Lancair does.. NOT good.
> 
> 
> Phil Matheson

---

Wow!  That's a lot of exclaimation points and question marks.  The
question posed seemed to be simple enough.  
"Can anyone tell me if Polyester will work on a fuel tank application? " 
I'll stand by my answer.  Yes it will, and there are tens of thousands of
Cherokees flying around with Polyester tip tanks as flying proof.  Many
have been in service since long before Ken and Stu dreamed up the KR
aircraft.  Apparently some of you have testing data that you should share
with Piper and the FAA that demonstrates otherwise?  

Later, a second question was posed about the tolerance of Polyester tanks
to Alcohol fuels.  My answer was that I don't know.  Piper didn't test
alcohol in their tanks as Alcohol contaminated fuels are not recommended
(or allowed) by either Piper or the FAA.  Consequently, I have no
knowledge of specific long term testing data.  I've only heard third and
fourth hand anecdotal information on the internet, which I don't consider
to be particularly reliable data.

Would I really want to take the same chances with my tanks as a Piper
Cherokee?  Simple answer.  "Yes."  However, I would not use alcohol
contaminated fuels in my aircraft, whether the tanks were up to it or
not.  

The original post didn't ask for a recommendation, which is why I didn't
make one.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM
N1213W

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KR> RE: vinyester vs polyester

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Don't know.  Piper never intended for their planes to have alcohol in
them.  That may very well be the reason why Steve Glover says not to use
it.

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

On Thu, 1 Oct 2009 16:18:01 -0700 "Fred Johnson" 
writes:
> How well will it hold up to alcohol?
> 
> 
> Fred Johnson
> Reno, NV

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KR> KR Gathering / Trip Flight Log

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Hi Robin,

Good to hear from you.

I flew the KR to another fly in in Southern, NM yesterday.  With the
additionaly horsing around I did at the Gathering, I have logged a total
of 26.5 hours on the KR in the last two weeks.

Best regards,

-Jeff

On Mon, 28 Sep 2009 09:00:38 +1300 Robin Macdonald
<r.macdon...@clear.net.nz> writes:
> Jeff,
> 
> Enjoyed your trip log. What was the total flying time.
> 
> >From someone who can fly coast to coast in approx 2 hrs.
> 
> 50% done & 90% to go.
> 
> Robin
> 
> N.Z.
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Jeff Scott" <jscott.pi...@juno.com>
> To: <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2009 6:41 AM
> Subject: KR> KR Gathering / Trip Flight Log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff Scott & N1213W
> Los Alamos, NM
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

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KR> Brake Lines:

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Wed, 2 Sep 2009 18:41:46 -0400 "Howard Goodwin"
 writes:
> Thanks for your thoughts Dan:
> 
> Unless someone comes up with a solid negative reason, I am going 
> to use 
> 3/16 automotive brake lines.  They might be available in aluminum, I 
> will 
> certainly check. My brakes are heel activated, meaning the master 
> cylinders 
> do not move.  The only flex I have is in the gear let itself.
>  I'm getting the hots for a EIS:  My Inst panel has too much 
> "stuff" on 
> it.  Any used one around?
> 
> Howard Goodwin
> Washington N.C.
> N742HG

Aluminum works great.  I used 3/16" Nylo-Seal tubing as purchased from
Aircraft Spruce and installed per the directions in Aircraft Spruce
Catalog using Poly-Flo fittings.  It is still available.  I only used
Nylo-Seal for it's flexibility in the area around the rudder pedals. 
Nothing wrong with installing aluminum all the way through the system if
the brake cylinders don't move.  In fact, I would recommend it.  On my
plane, the brake lines transition from Nylo-Seal to aluminum before the
hydraulic line reaches the wheel fairings for fire prevention reasons.  

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

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KR> Was Flying again, now EGTs

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

EGT temps really aren't important unless you are worrying about melting
down your exhaust pipes.  They vary depending on altitude, mixture, RPM,
and engine.  The actual number isn't important, but is typically used
only to measure the current EGT reading vs Peak EGT reading.  That's why
the old Alcore EGT guages didn'thave any numbers.  Only gradicule
markings so you could make a comparison as you leaned the for peak EGT,
then either rich or lean of peak depending on the the desired operation. 
A multipoint EGT set up allows the pilot to compare cylinder to cylinder
readings, but again, the actual number isn't what is critical.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

On Mon, 24 Aug 2009 22:19:49 -0500 "Mark Langford" 
writes:
> Dan Heath wrote:
> 
> > Raising the RPM has a direct affect on the EGT, so I am being
> > cautious about that, as 1275 is a bit high even though the other 
> temps are good.

Mark Langford wrote:
> 
> I wouldn't lose any sleep over those EGT temps.  In fact, I'd pull 
> the 
> mixture knob a bit and quit burning so much fuel, personally!  
snip-
> 
> Mark Langford

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KR> Progress Report

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Fri, 21 Aug 2009 17:34:42 -0400 "Brad Ankerstar"
 writes:
> Netters,
> 
> The project I started on July 31st, 1974 became an airplane at 1030 
> today, August 21st.  

Congratulations Brad!  That is a huge accomplishment and you get the
prize for persistance with a 35 years construction project.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM 

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KR> new member with questions

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Try to make it to the gathering.  You'll get plenty of opportunity to
look at any part of many different KRs and can get lots of 1-on-1 time
with many KR builders and pilots.  I plan to be there.

While the RR plans are important, I think you'll find much more
information on the web pages published by many KR builders.  Start at
KRNet.org and start drilling down from there.  Mark Langford and Dan
Heath have published their aircraft construction in painful detail on
their web pages and will supply you will enough reading to keep you
occupied for weeks.  Lots of other guys have plenty of interesting
details published on their web sites as well.

Jeff Scott - N1213W
Los Alamos, NM


On Sat, 15 Aug 2009 19:38:13 -0700 (PDT) Matt Lenz 
writes:
> My son and I have purchased a partially completed KR2, at least we 
> have made two of a total of four payments.  We are extremely excited 
> but minimally informed on the process of building a plane.  I have 
> looked through the RR plans binder and my first question was: is 
> there such a thing as a checklist or order of precedence that can 
> lead the owner/builder from start to finish?  My second question 
> was: is there a "quality" checklist in which I can meaure or 
> otherwise determine that I have built the part-I'm-working-on 
> right?  I have shot off an email to Larry Capps to find out how to 
> buy the CD of KR newsletters, but I kind of think of them as 
> potential bonus material versus "need to have" documentation like I 
> mention above. A final question is about the actual plans.  The 
> binder I got as part of the sale of the partial plane has yellow 
> pages, but no date in it anywhere although it says it is book 
> #65.  This leads me to wonder if RR has published
>  any updated plans based on more current technology?  I plan to 
> contact RR about this question and don't mind paying for a new set 
> of plans if they are "better" than the book I have.  Last question 
> is about the 09 gathering in Mount Vernon, Illinois.  I would sure 
> like to go to see actual flying machines and get the opportunity to 
> look under the hood on some of them.  Anyone feel like taking a 
> newbie under their wing?
> 
> Thanks,
> Matt Lenz
> Orlando, Florida
> 
> 
>   
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

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KR> Well nuts, vapor lock!

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Insulate your fuel lines with fire sleeve.  You'll find it listed with
the fuel hoses in the Aircraft Spruce catalog.

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM


On Mon, 13 Jul 2009 22:11:58 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) "Myron (Dan)
Freeman"  writes:
> Hi Guys & Girls; 
> 
>  
> 
> I went to the airport today and prepped Ol' Blue for flight and 
> triple
> checked everything. A OK this time and taxied toward the far end of 
> the
> runway, wouldn't you know the wind was from the wrong end and it was 
> hot.
> Well I didn't make it, it vapor locked before I could get there and 
> I couldn
> t get it re-started. 
> 
>  
> 
> Might be a good thing though. It has a shielded fuel system with a 
> cooling
> hose on the gas collator but not good enough apparently. So either I 
> fly it
> in cooler weather or fix it right. I had an old English Ford that 
> would do
> that in heavy, slow traffic but I carried a bottle of water in the 
> car to
> pour on the fuel pump when it did it but of course I cannot do that 
> with Ol'
> Blue.
> 
>  
> 
> It has aluminum fuel lines that are completely un-covered so I think 
> I need
> to start there and shield all of them some how kind of like you 
> would your
> water pipes in your home. I can't use water pipe insulation but 
> aluminum
> faced fiberglass wrap might work. Anybody have any suggestions as to 
> what to
> use? 
> 
> I will not rush it.
> 
>  
> 
> Regards, 
> 
> Myron (Dan) Freeman 
> 
> Indpls, Ind. 46203-3570 
> 
> Home of the Indy 500, 
> 
> the World's most famous 
> 
> auto race. 
> 
> mfreem...@indy.rr.com 
> 
>  
> 
> Check out and join the 
> 
> the Independence Caucus to 
> 
> help save America from treason 
> 
> http://www.ourcaucus.com/index.html? ? 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 


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KR> Data Plate question

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Mike,

This is a question that should go to your local FSDO, which often times
gets a different answer depending on the FSDO Office.  When a friend did
a major rebuild of his Hummelbird (yes, the one that made it to several
gatherings), he changed nearly everything about the plane including
differnt engine type, empty weight, and gross weight.  FSDO advised him
to keep the original data plate on the plane, and rivet a second data
plate with the new information next to the original data plate.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM



On Thu, 11 Jun 2009 23:23:48 -0700 laser...@juno.com writes:
> 
> **
> 
> What is the usual procedure regarding the original data plate that 
> goes
> on an Experimental when it gets signed off?  Since mine was 
> originally
> attached to the plane, everything on it has changed except the name 
> of
> the builder and the name of the plane.  It is also quite worn with 
> time
> and hard to read.  Is there any reason, regulation wise, why I 
> cannot
> re-do the data plate to reflect the changes?  
> 
> And just where does one get data plates anyway?  
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Mike

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KR> Anybody flying today?

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sun, 31 May 2009 08:25:35 -0400 Dana Overall 
writes:
> 
> > To: kr...@mylist.net
> 
> > > Anybody flying today??  I'm am:-)
> > > Dana Overall 

> I'll get
> > the KR out of the hangar and head out for a $50 breakfast burrito
> > tomorrow. :o)
> > 
> > -Jeff Scott
> 
> Hah, around this neck of the woods we go out for a hundred dollar 
> hamburger..guess you guys do it differently "out west":-)
> 
> Dana Overall 
> 
> Richmond, KY i39

Nope.  I just burn less fuel getting there and back. :o)

-Jeff

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KR> Get em flying

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sun, 31 May 2009 08:49:23 -0400 Dana Overall 
writes:
> 
> Here's why you need to "get em flying".  We are throwing around a 
> long weekend trip to St. Simons Island.  See:  
> http://www.explorestsimonsisland.com/index.html  or 
> http://www.airnav.com/airport/KSSI
> 
> Here you go, for me it's 415 nm, 24.3 gallons one, 2:33 at 160 kts 
> cruiseso, two days on the beach, eating seafood..for less 
> than $200 in avgas.
> 
> Need I say it again...get em flying!!
> 
> 
> Dana Overall 

Hmm.  Only 1272.7 Nautical miles east for me to get there.  I don't think
I can get there on $200 in Avgas.  I'm thinking I might pass on that
trip.  Actually, I spent a few days on St Simon Island 3 years ago. 
Really enjoyed it.  Very pleasant place, great seafood restaurants, neat
airport. 

-Jeff Scott

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KR> Anybody flying today?

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sat, 30 May 2009 14:09:31 -0400 Dana Overall 
writes:
> 
> Anybody flying today??  I'm am:-)
> 
> 
> Dana Overall 
> 

Yeah, I was.  But not the KR.  Had the other plane out today.  I'll get
the KR out of the hangar and head out for a $50 breakfast burrito
tomorrow. :o)

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

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KR> RE: KR nose wheel shimmy

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sat, 25 Apr 2009 16:16:47 -0400 "Dan Heath" 
writes:
> I have to be a "smart A" here and say that there is one sure fire 
> cure for nose wheel shimmy.
> 
> Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

Yep.  Then you get a tail wheel shimmy. :o)

FWIW, caster, tire pressure, and damping all apply whether we're talking
about nosewheel or tailwheel shimmy.  I get an occassional shimmy in the
tailwheel on my KR.  Since I can't adjust the tire pressure in my hard
tire, and can't adjust the caster unless I want to bend the tailwheel
spring, it is always addressed with damping by snugging down the nut on
the tailwheel shaft where it goes vertically through the tailwheel frame.
 I usually need to snug it down every 75 - 100 hours to prevent shimmy.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

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KR> Composite Material

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

The Carbon Fibre he is using is prepreg.  Unless you have an autoclave,
vacuum press, or a large oven to cure in while vacuum molding, it's not
going to do you any good.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM


On Sat, 18 Apr 2009 18:25:10 -0700 (PDT) Kurt Clement
 writes:
> I love meeting new people and tell them I am building a plane. Every 
> once in awhile I get a surprise. I was at my niece's wedding in 
> Seattle WA and I found out an old friend was a composite engineer at 
> Boeing. I had no idea. We talked about materials for a couple of 
> hours. I am going to hound him about getting some of their scraps. I 
> don't know if it will ever happen, but a guy can dream. He had a lot 
> of interesting information. Right now he is working on the 
> manufacturing process because the manual layup increases the 
> expenses to the point where the savings in weight are all lost. He 
> says that the composite they use is Carbon that has to be held in 
> sub zero temps until the time they actually lay it up and then they 
> have 5 days to lay it up and cure it at 350 degrees. He says they 
> pay about $100 a pound for the stuff and waste enough every day to 
> build a small plane. You see why I want to get my hands on some? 
> Anyway I am going to hit him up for more
>  information I just thought I would share some of the stuff I picked 
> up. He works at Boeing but doesn't really know about flying 
> characteristics beyond knowing he has to design for bird strikes and 
> the structural aspects are a completely different department.
> 
> 
> -Kurt
> 141 Hours in AZ
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

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KR> Venturi on a KR2S

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Mon, 23 Feb 2009 14:14:45 +1100 Darren Crompton
 writes:
> >
> > One of them had the venturi's
> > mounted on the belly right behind the engine air outlet, so it 
> was
> > already in the disturbed air without creating a lot more drag.
> >
> 
> 
> Jeff.
> 
> I am guessing that having the venturi in that position would also 
> reduce the
> possibility of icing as the air from the outlet and even exhaust 
> would be
> warmer than the ambient temperature.
> 
> -- 
> Darren Crompton
> AUSTRALIA

I always figured that too, but wasn't willing to fly my Stinson into the
ice to find out. :o)

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

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KR> Venturi on a KR2S

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

re: Running a gyro with engine manifold vacuum, you will find that you
aren't going to get enough vacuum to operate a gyro while running at high
throttle settings, which is where I'm almost always running.  Venturis
work great.  My Stinson Voyagers had them.  One of them had the venturi's
mounted on the belly right behind the engine air outlet, so it was
already in the disturbed air without creating a lot more drag.  

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM


On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 21:34:15 -0500 "Randy Powell"
 writes:
> I agree in my case it is only for backup in IFR conditions.  But if 
> it was 
> tapped into the main induction runner the mixture would be adjusted 
> with it 
> in place, and would compensate for the extra air.   There might be a 
> problem 
> at wide open throttle reducing the intake vacuum and not providing 
> sufficient vacuum for the instruments..
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Dan Heath" 
> To: "'KRnet'" 
> Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 9:00 PM
> Subject: RE: KR> Venturi on a KR2S
> 
> 
> I have seen that done before, but the problem is that it leans the 
> mixture,
> so you might want to keep it only for back up.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On 
> Behalf
> Of Randy Powell
> Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 8:28 PM
> To: Kirk Lacewell; KRnet
> Subject: Re: KR> Venturi on a KR2S
> 
> On my Cherokee there is an alternate vacuum source which consists of 
> a valve
> 
> tapped into one of the intake runners.  It works well and I wonder 
> if this
> would work equally as well as a primary vacuum source on other 
> aircraft.
> Just a thought.
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Kirk Lacewell" 
> To: "KRnet" 
> Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 7:23 PM
> Subject: KR> Venturi on a KR2S
> 
> 
> I've been struggling to find a way to drive my vacuum pump on my 
> KR2S and
> just had the thought. Why not forget the pump and use a Venturi?
> 
> Anyone know of a good reason not to use a Venturi?
> 
> Anyone know of someone using one on a KR?
> 
> Thanks,
> Kirk Lacewell
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 
>
-
---
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.2/1965 - Release Date: 
> 02/21/09
> 15:36:00
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 
>
-
---
> 
> 
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.2/1965 - Release Date: 
> 02/21/09 
> 15:36:00
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

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KR> KRS O-200 Vs Mooney

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 08:15:30 -0500 M Blank 
writes:
> 
> Anyone flown a KR2S/0200 and a Mooney M20C? I have a KR2S project 
> and bought a Mooney last year and just wondered how much of a 
> difference there would be in the flight characteristics between the 
> two. I have even pondered "gulp" selling my project, my wife has 
> been without the garage for years now and if there wasnt much 
> difference in the two birds I guess I might consider it. It is a 
> painful thought I bought that KR in 1999 when I was going through a 
> divorce and I feel like it is part of me now, but, I try to be 
> logical most of the time. any comments
> 
>  
> 
>  
> Mike 
> 
>
> KR2S/O-200  75%?
> 

What differences do you want to contrast?  Performance wise, I can out
climb and out run a M20C in my O-200 powered KR.  However, it's not a
huge difference.

If you are asking about load capacity, the Mooney will haul a load (like
a second person).  The KR won't.

If it's the fun factor, the KR is a whole lot more fun to fly.  I ticked
over 718 hours on my KR yesterday.  I still fall in love with this plane
and how much fun it is to fly every time I light it up.

When you go to a fly in, the KR will be the one with a crowd of people
admiring it, but the Mooney will get you there in comfort.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

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KR> N1213W back in the air

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

The design was for 38" pipes.  I accomplished that on the two front
cylinders.  I don't have the bending equipment available to do a really
bang up job on headers, so the two aft cylinders ended up closer to 35"
in length.

-Jeff


On Wed, 21 Jan 2009 17:00:29 -0600 Larry Flesner
 writes:
> At 02:03 PM 1/20/2009, you wrote:
> 
> >A quick update on testing with the new top end and exhaust on 
> N1213W.
> +
> 
> Jeff,
> 
> Are the new pipes cut to a "tuned" length or just of a length that
> fit the installation?  If tuned, what is the length of the pipes?  I 
> may
> consider doing the same on my tired old 0-200.
> 
> Larry Flesner
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

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KR> exhausting progress?

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:33:49 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) "Dan Heath"
 writes:
> I noticed on Jeff's web site that the Cont cannot take advantage of 
having a
> crossover.  They claim that the VW can, I wonder why?  Also, I have
noticed
> that the Vairs don't use crossover.  Is this just for convenience, or
does
> the same apply?

On a 4 cylinder opposed engine like a VW or Continental, plumbing a pipe
down each side is about the worst (and easiest to build) exhaust design
you can make.  That's mainly because of the firing order.  You'll find
that the two cylinders on one side fire in order, then the two cylinders
on the other side fire in order.  That leaves one cylinder opening it's
exhaust valve right into the exhaust from the other cylinder on that
side.  Not a very good way for the engine to breath.

A crossover exhaust pairs the front two cylinders together, and the back
two cylinders together.  This really is a good exhaust as you will have
one cylinder firing into the crossover pipe once every revolution, but
can also be difficult to build.  On a Lycoming engine, this is a good
exhaust as you'll only have a cylinder firing into that half of the
exhaust once per revolution so you'll get some scavenging effect.  If you
can fit in tuned lengths into a collector like a powerflow exhaust,
that's even better.

On the smaller Continental engines, there just isn't enough valve overlap
to get much of a scavenge effect from using a crossover exhaust.  The cam
is just too mild.  Consequently, 4 tuned length pipes will breath as well
as a crossover exhaust or headers into a collector, and is significantly
easier to build.

I think you'll find that most engine builders use a much more aggressive
cam with significant valve overlap in the VW aircraft engines, so using
either a crossover type exhaust or a 4 into 1 tuned header would work
very well.

A little reading at http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/crossovers.html will
explain their opinion on this.  There is lots of good reading about
various exhaust types for aircraft at http://www.aircraftexhaust.net. 
And more good reading about how a tuned exhaust works at
http://www.powerflowsystems.com/exhaust_process.php.

On a 6 cylinder engine like the Corvairs, a pair of tuned length 3 into 1
headers are the ideal.  However, guys that have done a lot of this tell
me that the 6 cylinder engines don't seem to suffer as badly from using a
simple log down either side as the 4 cylinder engines do.  The only proof
I could offer to support that would be the fact that Powerflow doesn't
sell any tuned exhaust systems for the 6 cylinder Continental or Lycoming
engines, but are continuously adding more STCs for less numerous aircraft
using 4 cylinder Lycoming engines.

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

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KR> exhausting progress?

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Mon, 8 Dec 2008 13:37:00 +1100 "Darren Crompton"
 writes:
> Hey Jeff.
> 
> I was checking out the archived updates on Jeanette Rand's web site 
> and
> somehow ended up finding some old pics of your KR.  Do you think you 
> could
> include them on your current site?
> Not every link works but it is worth a look.
>
http://web.archive.org/web/2303224158/www.thuntek.net/~jeb/krjeff.htm
> 
> 
> Cheers.
> -- 
> Darren Crompton
> AUSTRALIA

I think I know where I can harvest that whole series of photos.  I'll
incorporate them into my web page next time I have a a day with nothing
else on the agenda.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

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KR> exhausting progress?

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

I slapped together a quick web page that shows the old and new exhaust
systems on my KR.  < http://www.losalamos.com/jscott/KR/exhaust.html>  If
anyone is interested, the old exhaust system will likely be for sale
(including heat exchangers) at a very reasonable price after I've put a
little time on the new system.  The old system will fit any small
Continental from A-65 - O-200.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

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KR> progress?

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sat, 6 Dec 2008 21:55:55 -0600 "Mark Langford" 
writes:
> Anybody been making progress on a KR lately?  The weather's been less 
> than optimal lately for flying OR working on KRs here, but surely 
> somewhere somebody's getting a little closer to flying.  I'll bet 
> the Aussies are cookin'...
> 
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL

I don't know if what I've been doing would be considered progress or
regression.  I pulled the top end off my O-200 to replace the worn out
valve guides that we didn't replace when I originally built this engine. 
We'll just chalk that up to my learning curve.  This has turned into a
lesson in why it's a good idea to tear down an experimental engine for
inspection no matter how small the risk of the experiment.  This engine
was an experiment using the C-85 pistons in place of the O-200 pistons,
which I had heard was a simple to do, accepted practice.  When building
this engine up 6 years ago, I discovered that the pistons hit the bottom
of the spark plug bosses inside the cylinders.  I had ground the bottom
off the spark plug bosses to clearance the pistons and have flown it like
that for the last 360 hours.  

Upon tear down, I discovered some abnormal wear on the bottom side of top
compression rings where they ride in the piston.  It turns out that the
top ring was actually going slightly beyond the top of the steel bore and
was hitting the aluminum in the head causing the ring to twist, creating
the strange wear in the bottom side of the ring.  This would have
eventually cause a premature failure of the ring, piston or cylinder.  We
figured we could remedy this by doing a precision hone job a few
thousandths beyond the top of the bore into the head as the ring wasn't
going completely off the steel bore.  Upon reassembly last weekend, I
found that the top ring in one cylinder was now springing out into the
head and binding up.  The only solution was to order a set of stock O-200
pistons and downgrade the engine to a stock O-200.  :o(

When I pulled off the old exhaust, I was horrified at the bad things I
had done to the flow inside the exhaust when I built it.  I still
remember that my mind set 12 years ago was to get an exhaust on this
engine and get it flying.  I had committed to myself that I would build a
new exhaust a few years ago and figured this would be a good opportunity
to do so.  Now I have completed building a new exhaust of 4 seperate
header pipes that should significantly improve the breathing of this
engine.  I figure that if I did a really good job on the exhaust, the
engine might breath well enough to offset the loss of HP due to
downgrading the compression of the engine.  

Lots of time and effort and about the best I can hope for is the same
performance as I had before I started.  Of course now the engine
shouldn't have a future failure somewhere in the offing, and it shouldn't
push oil overboard anymore.  

Oh yes.  I also saw evidence on all four pistons that this engine had
been suffering from some detonation as well.  It wasn't significant
enough to ever cause a failure, but the evidence was there.  It may have
been due to the slightly advanced ignition timing I was running in
combination with the higher compression pistons.  I really doubt that it
would have had any problems at the altitudes I normally fly, but was
probably not a very happy engine while I was zooming around at Mt Vernon.

I'll try to get some pictures together and post them to my web page
sometime in the next couple of weeks.  I'm probably still about a week
away from getting the plane back together and the condition inspection
completed so I can get back to flying again.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM
N1213W

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KR> Saturday flight

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Congratulations, you just passed my KR for time on the tach.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM


On Sun, 2 Nov 2008 21:08:16 -0600 "Mark Langford" 
writes:

>  I parked the plane with 710 hours on it this 
> afternoon.
> 
> Sorry Jones...
> 
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL

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KR> back in the air / 0-200 starter

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Dan,

I saw that you were having to really tug on it to get it engaged.  My
first thought was that you might want to adjust the bolt that pushes the
electrical contacts so it makes contact a bit easier.  The starter gear
is probably already fully engaged.  I also noticed that your starter
cable was pulling from one side of the starter pull arm rather than a
clevis pulling straight on the starter arm.  That can also be
problematic.

My starter cable has a "T" handle and is mounted in the lower left panel
with a gentle "S" in the cable before it feeds through the center of the
fire wall.  It has always worked quite easily.

Jeff Scott
N1213W  700+ hours and counting.


On Tue, 14 Oct 2008 21:28:26 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) "Myron (Dan)
Freeman"  writes:

> As I found out at the Gathering this year the Continental pull starter
can
> be a real pain to use and I'm considering the possibility of replacing
it
> with an electric solenoid type starter even though my current starter
has
> recently been rebuilt, either that or re-routing the pull cable so it
works
> easier than it currently does if that's possible. It takes a very 
> strong  pull to get it to work.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have that kind of problem with yours?

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KR> More Flying

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Thanks.

High compression O-200 (using C-85 pistons) and 60x66 prop from
Performance Propellers.  I was out testing because I had just had the
prop trimmed down from 62x68. The pitch was supposed to be trimmed down,
but the prop diameter wasn't.  I haven't been completely happy with the
results, so thought perhaps I should go run some numbers on the prop to
document it's performance.

Jeff Scott


On Sun, 27 May 2007 15:49:58 + ienn...@att.net (dick enacco) writes:
> John Scott,
> 
> Thank you for the numbers.
> 
> I do want you to know that you KR, N1213W looks so good that I have 
> had it's picture in view on my board for sever months for 
> inspiration.  Great paint job too.
> 
> I am a long time pilot but not a KR-2 owner (yet). From what I read, 
> it seems to fly like any good high-performance single engine - and 
> for a reasonable price.
> 
> I was wondering (and others may be interested too) what engine and 
> prop provided your altitude - performance figures?
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> --
> Dick Iennaco
> Cocoa Beach, FL
> -- Original message --

> > 
> > Altitude   MPH  Knots RPM
> > 15,500   147.5  128.1   2500
> > 14,500   152.25132.3   2525
> > 13,500   154.0  134.0   2550
> > 12,500   154.75134.5   2600
> > 11,500   157.75137.0   2650
> > 10,500   159.25138.4   2650
> > 9500  160.75139.7   2675
> > 8500  163.75142.3   2700

KR> Re: gap seals

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Gap seals are to prevent a jet of air from shooting up through the
aileron gap and producing drag.  I did the testing on my KR with the gap
seals and also found no advantage in climb or speed.  I did find that the
seals pressed against the bottom of the ailerons creating very heavy
ailerons at high speeds.  My conclusion was that there was no discernable
benefit to aileron gap seals on the RAF 48 airfoil using the stock
aileron hinges, and it actually created a mild control problem at higher
speeds.  This should be documented somewhere in the KRNet archives from
many years ago.

It should be noted that the full span piano hinge is a pretty effective
seal for the aileron gap.  The disparity about gap seals on the RAF 48 vs
the AS series airfoil came when Troy tested them on his plane.  I never
did see any numbers, but Troy was quoted as saying they made a marked
improvement on his KR with the AS series airfoil.  Others have probably
also tested them on their KRs with the AS series airfoils, and I'm not
going to disparage their testing; however, I have never seen any before
and after numbers listed.

Colin is correct in that gap seals are most effective in climb when the
pressure differential is the greatest between the top and bottom of the
wing.  However, as long as there is a pressure differential, which is any
time a wing is lifting, without some sort of seal between the wing and
aileron, there is a jet of air shooting up between the wing and aileron
that will create drag.  

Jeff Scott


On Tue, 29 May 2007 07:54:44 -0700 "Joe Beyer" 
writes:
> I installed gap seals a couple of years ago and found no aerodynamic 
> benefit
> at all. They pre loaded the aileron linkage a little and after a few 
> flights
> I removed them. They were stuck on with silicone and the paint came 
> off
> where they were attached. Several hours of work wasted.
> 
> -Joe  
> 
> 
> > when i installed gap seals yes i woiuld say i say an 
> > improvement in roll and climb has anyone fitted vortex 
> > generators phill
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "Rich Seifert" 
> > To: "KRnet" 
> > Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2007 1:43 AM
> > Subject: Re: KR> gap seals
> > 
> > 
> > >I installed gap seals, and would have to agree; I saw no 
> > aerodynamic  
> > >benifit, but in my case they flutter at stall speed and so 
> > they are now 
> > >my  stall warning device.  You results my vary.  :-)
> > >
> > > - Original Message -
> > > From: "Larry Flesner" 
> > > To: "KRnet" 
> > > Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 4:59 AM
> > > Subject: Re: KR> gap seals
> > >
> > >
> > >>
> > >> Larry said: but I recall that there is no aerodynamic gain in 
> > >> covering the
> > >> >opening with the RAF48 airfoil.
> > >> >
> > >> >It is my understanding that regardless of airfoil, that 
> > the primary
> > > benefit,
> > >> >and reason for the wing gap seals for ailerons is for the 
> > benefit to
> > > climb
> > >> >rate.
> > >> >Colin Rainey
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

KR> More Flying

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Gorgeous day here in the Southwest today. That gave me an opportunity to
do some performance testing with the new prop on my KR.

Many builders ask for performance numbers on different KRs, so below is a
set of numbers I ran this morning while documenting the performance with
the new prop.

Rate of climb was pretty good, still showing 200+ fpm at 15,500'.  As
long as I was at that altitude, I ran a series of 4 direction runs
recording the gps data and rpm at 1000' intervals down through 8500'. 
I'm still trying to sort out the changes to the performance with the new
prop and decide whether to order a different prop.  I saw the following
results this morning:

Altitude   MPH  Knots RPM
15,500   147.5  128.1   2500
14,500   152.25132.3   2525
13,500   154.0  134.0   2550
12,500   154.75134.5   2600
11,500   157.75137.0   2650
10,500   159.25138.4   2650
9500  160.75139.7   2675
8500  163.75142.3   2700

Unfortunately, I can't test any lower due to the local terrain.  Oh yes,
and it's a beautiful view from up over the mountains. :o)

Jeff Scott
N1213W

KR> Oiled Engine mount

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Steve is exactly correct if you want to go with accepted industry
practices.  Welded steel tube fusealges have a small hole drilled between
tubes at welded junctures before welding so there is an air connection
through the center of all of the tubes.  You inject a small amount of
linseed oil through a drilled hole into a tube, weld it shut, then roll
the fuselage around a few times to help distribute the linseed oil. 
Linseed oil does a fine job of migrating through out the tubing and will
prevent corrosion as long as the tubing is sealed.  It also has the added
bonus of finding any welds that are not sealed.  The same process applies
to motor mounts.  It's simple to do, is a permanent corrosion proofing
method and is also accepted aircraft industry practice.  

However, I would bet that most motor mounts flying around on  most
experimental aircraft have no corrosion proofing other than an external
coat of paint or powder coating  to make them look nice.

Jeff Scott



On Fri, 18 May 2007 22:28:18 -0500 "Steve Bray" 
writes:
> I believe I heard/read that linseed oil was put inside the tubes of 
> the 
> fuselage before welding them up to prevent rust.  This should work 
> on the 
> gear/engine mount also and give you a good excuse to roll over every 
> now and 
> then to " Oil Your Tubes."
> 
> 
> Just a thought,
> 
> Steve Bray
> Jackson, Tennessee
> 

KR> flying

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

I finally got to drag my KR out for some flying today as well.  I got to
fly to Angel Fire, NM for breakfast this morning.  With a range of peaks
between Los Alamos and Angel Fire, we crossed the mountains at 13,500'.  
Interesting place to fly in and out of as it's at the bottom of a valley
with the Field elevation of 8380' MSL.Density Altitude was 10,500
when I launched from Angel Fire for home.

I've been experimenting with props recently, which may turn out to be a
very expensive experiment.  I had some pitch trimmed off my prop to allow
my engine to turn up a bit faster.  Unfortunately, unknown to me the
manufacturer also trimmed the prop diameter down while he was cutting the
pitch.  Flying from the high density altitude fields that I fly out of
gave some less than stellar results that surprised both the prop builder
and me , but was still good enough to run down and pass my boss in his
M20C Mooney on the way over to Angel Fire. :o)  

If there is any interest, I expect to have a very nice 64 laminate 60d x
66p prop (Performance Propellers) for a SAE-1 Continental hub for sale in
a few months.  According to the prop builder, this prop is perfect for an
O-200 powered KR or Q200, but didn't work out very well for mine at the
altitudes I fly.

Jeff Scott
N1213W  620+ hours 

KR> Re: Engine Rebuild

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

And this guy is still walking and breathing???!!!  Last guy that was in
my hanger that couldn't keep his hands off my engine parts was marched
out the hanger door and was told in no uncertain terms never to return. 
I can't believe that someone would to that, then keep their mouth shut
while you go try to kill yourself with that engine.  There are a few
things that will really light my fire, and your hanger mate committed one
of the big ones.

Jeff Scott


On Tue, 1 May 2007 17:27:13 -0500 "Mark Jones" 
writes:
> You guys are not going to believe what I discovered today. I have a 
> mechanic friend (not an A) who shares the same hangar as I do and 
> he loves working on engines. If you remember, back in December, I 
> removed my rear housing and found that my oil pump was dragging and 
> hard to turn. Well, I had another rear housing that I had acquired 
> and was going to be installed as the replacement of my bad one. 
> These housings were laying on the bench for about a week before I 
> installed the new one back on my engine. I did not bother to check 
> the movement of the oil pump gears because I had already done it a 
> week earlier so I simply installed it on my engine thinking all was 
> good to go. Today, I learned that my hangar mate, in the interim, 
> decided he wanted to compare the two oil pumps so he took a look 
> inside the oil pumps. He told me this today as we were working on my 
> engine. I could not believe he had done this and had not told me. 
> When he re-assembled the good pump, he made two huge mistakes. First 
> he sprayed a thick coat of Permatex Copper Gasket sealer on the 
> gasket which was already stuck to the oil pump cover. He also coated 
> the surface area where the pump gears ride which helped attribute to 
> the binding. Second, he over torqued the oil pump cover which in 
> turn compressed the gasket even further causing even more binding. 
> Another lesson learned: do not let anyone work on your engine but 
> you or a certified Corvair person. Gotta love experimental. Just 
> call me the "Corvair Proof of Concept Man" because I have no doubt 
> tested all the bad ways to fly a Corvair. It takes a licking and 
> keeps on ticking. 
> 
> Mark Jones (N886MJ)
> Wales, WI 
> Visit my web site: www.flykr2s.com
> E-mail: flyk...@wi.rr.com

KR> Fuel gauge Sender

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sun, 6 May 2007 19:32:03 -0400 "Brian Kraut" 
writes:
> Don't know if it will help you or not, but I do highly recommend the 
> Westach
> capacitive sender fuel gauge.  It is easy to install and works 
> great.  I had
> one in my KR and there is one in my Stang and both worked good.
> 
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
> 

I have to agree with Brian here.  I've been flying with the Westach
Capacitance fuel guages in my KR for 9 years now.  They are reliable and
accurate.  I have had minor problems with the probes floating their
grounds on the older models from 10+ years ago, but when replaced with
the newer style (any of the probes built in the last 8 years), they are
very reliable.

Jeff Scott

KR> fuel lines

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Rotax also supplies barbed fittings and black rubber like hoses.  As
Barry says, the key here isn't that the hoses won't work, it's fire
prevention and containment.  Using those hoses in a plane isn't a
problem, but I would strongly recommend using firesleeve over them.

Jeff Scott


On Sat, 10 Feb 2007 20:05:38 +0200 "AVLEC"  writes:
> Hi guys
> I recently took delivery of a 3300 Jabiru motor and a firewall  forward
kit
> for it to be installed in a whisper motor glider.
> Here is a factory supplied motor and fitment kit that has the entire 
fuel
> system plumbed with "rubber" fuel hose, barbed fittings and hose 
clamps.
> This is for the suction lines as well as for the pressurised part 
after the
> fuel pumps.
> Come to think of it, the 2.0L fuel injected hot hatch (VW GTI 
thrasher,
> sorry Mark I couldn't resist) that I used to have used rubber hose  and
hose
> clamps troughout the system except it had steel pipes under the car for
> obvious reasons.
> If this is accepted practise by Jabiru and even in high pressure  auto
fuel
> injection systems, why is it frowned upon in aviation?
> Regards
> Dene Collett
> KR2SRT builder
> South africa
> Whisper assembler
> See: www.whisperaircraft.com
> mailto: av...@telkomsa.net

KR> RC servo

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 18:46:39 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) "Dan Heath"
 writes:
> That's funny.  I am using a mirror motor out of a Mercury Sable.  And 
> it
> works great.  For how long, I can't guess, but if it craps out, I 
> will put
> in a Ray Allen.  For now, this $5 servo is working just fine. 
>  
> See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
> See you at the 2007 - KR Gathering
> There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for 
> Flying
> has begun.
> Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC
> ---Original Message---
>  
> The RC Servo trim system was said to be unsafe by the DAR
> so in its spot is the ELT remote panel.

The Ray Allen Trim Servo unit use a gear drive from a small electric
motor that locks where it's at when the voltage is removed.  I suspect
that  Dan's Sable mirror motor is very similar.  A RC servo has to have
voltage to hold a position.  The heavier the load against it, the more
amps it needs to pull and the more likely it is to fail.  If I found an
RC servo in the trim on a Tech Counselor inspection, I would advise the
builder to remove it.  If I found it on a condition inspection, it would
have to be removed before it gets a signature in the logs.  The DAR was
right on the money with his recommendation.

Jeff Scott
A

KR> Peel Ply facts

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Tue, 16 Jan 2007 17:09:54 -0600 Larry Flesner
 writes:
> At 03:39 PM 1/16/2007, you wrote:
> >But I thought peel ply left a skin of silicone on the epoxy I
> >thought you had to remove that before you laid another layer on??
> >Fred Johnson
> +
> 
> I've not heard of that before.  Most of my use of peel ply was on 
> the
> top or finish coat and only had finishing materials applied.  No
> problems that I've observed.  I'm sure I used peel ply and then
> later applied epoxy / glass over that area after removing the peel
> ply but again, I've not observed any problems.  Several areas on
> my KR are over 10 years old since construction and with 270 now
> on the KR I've just not seen a problem.
> 
> Larry Flesner

There is a type of peel ply that is typically only used with synthetic
pre-pregs that has a silicone release agent sprayed on it.  If you use
that particular type of peel ply, you need to clean the glass before
attempting to bond to it.  Having said that, you would only have that
type of peel ply if you went out of your way to order it from a
composites supply house.  You won't be buying it through Wicks or Spruce
and it's not cheap.  

Most peel ply is plain old dacron fabric just like you would use to cover
a fabric airplane and has NO release agents.  It works well with wet
layups leaving the surface ready for sanding or bonding.  Check the part
numbers in the Aircraft Spruce catalog.  Their peel ply has the same part
number as their light weight uncertified dacron cloth.

Jeff Scott

KR> 0 200 Continental cowlings

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Fri, 15 Dec 2006 15:46:35 -0600 Larry Flesner
 writes:
> At 05:17 AM 12/15/2006, you wrote:
> >Is there an 0 200 Continental cowling available for KR2s
> +++
> 
> Jeff Scott and I got ours from Dan Diehl several years ago.
> I don't know if he still makes them or not.  I had to do 
> considerable
> mods to mine even though it was for an 0-200.  Good luck.
> 
> Larry Flesner

Dan's C-85/O-200 cowl mold was pulled off from Marty Roberts cowl which
was a stock KR-2 with a short mount.  Larry and I both did a number of
mods to get the cowl to fit our planes, but in m opinion, it sure beat
starting from scratch.

Jeff Scott 

KR> KR Flights

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

It was a gorgeous day here in the Southwest.  I had both planes out for
rides this morning just enjoying the smooth air, the mountain views and
the 200+ mile visibility.  While I don't have the time to fly as much as
Mark and Bill, and share my flying time across several planes, my KR
ticked over 605 hours this morning.  No doubt Mark and Bill will go
zooming by me in KR time within the next year or so, but 600 hours seems
like a significant milestone to me.

KRNetter Steve Bray is in town visiting his son here in Los Alamos this
weekend.  I got to fly with him in his C-172 yesterday while he shot some
landings getting acclimated to the performance of his Cessna on our 1 way
high altitude airport.  Hopefully we'll have time to get the planes out
to play some more tomorrow.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

KR> How to make an alternator look like a magneto??

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Bob,

You expect too much from the magneto manuals.  I have the Bendix overhaul
and installation manuals as well as the Slick installation manual.  There
is no such spec in the manuals as the coupler mounts to a tapered shaft,
then the mag mounts flush to the accessory case.  The engagement depth is
fixed.  However, the size and depth of the coupling you show is more
robust than what you'll see in the generator/alternator drive on a small
Continental, so I would not expect a problem with it.  If you have an
alternator bearing seize, it should be the shaft through the alternator
that fails, which is what you want.

Jeff Scott


On Tue, 7 Nov 2006 07:04:52 -0500 "Bob Lee"  writes:
> KRnetters,
> 
> I am very excited to have finally completed a 27 month long step in  my
KR
> construction.  Yesterday I completed the modifications needed to make
my
> Hitachi alternator look to my engine like a magento.  I have put
together a
> link that compiles my diary pages into one page of the
alternatormodification at:  
> http://flyboybob.com/web_pages/kr2/alternator_index.htm.
> I need some peer review of the drive puck installation from those of
you
> with magneto experience.  I have approximately .200" engagement depth
into
> the .250" deep magneto drive puck when the puck is fully seated on the
> alternator.
> 
> Now for the important questions:  What is the normal engagement depth
> clearnace for the magneto drive puck?  Does anyone have access to an
> installation manual that gives specifications for the magneto drive
puck
> clearnaces?
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Bob Lee
> N52BL  KR2
> Suwanee, GA
> 91% done only 65% to go!
> 

KR> brakes

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

If the O-ring on the brake puck seeps a bit only under pressure, the
fluid may be burned off on the brakes and won't leave many signs that you
have a leak until it starts leaking when you are parked.

This reply will depend a bit which brakes you have, but the disc type
brakes typically used on the KRs, including Matco and Cleveland, will
often times get a small amount of corrosion around the puck during the
year or so of storage before they get installed and serviced.  The fix is
pretty simple.  Pop the puck out of the slave cylinder and scuff the
inside of the cylinder with scotch-bright. Remove the O-ring seal and
scrub the O-ring seats in puck.  Usually the O-ring is just fine and can
be re-installed, but it also won't hurt to use a new O-ring either (make
sure it's the correcct type!).  Inspect the O-ring (new or old) for 
damage and wipe the O-ring thoroughly with either DOT-3 or 5056 hyd fluid
before re-installing on the puck.  Re-assemble the brakes and service
with the correct fluid.

I had this problem with my KR when I first started flying it 9+ years ago
and fixed it with the procedure above.  I check the brake fluid level at
annual, but the only loss since then has only been due to brake pad wear.

Jeff Scott,
N1213W


On Sat, 11 Nov 2006 13:40:36 -0500 "kenneth l wiltrout"
 writes:
> I've added fluid 2 times this year and once last year, no visible 
> leaks
> anywhere except for slight seepage at the caliper o rings, that's 
> the only
> place I could be loosing it, guess I'll rebuild the calipers and do 
> the
> lining while I'm at it.??
> Ken Wiltrout
> Kutztown  
> -Original Message-
> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On 
> Behalf
> Of Larry Flesner
> Sent: Saturday, November 11, 2006 9:43 AM
> To: KRnet
> Subject: KR> brakes
> 
> 
> >   I found that
> >the reservoirs were almost empty.  This is the third time that I 
> have had
> to
> >fill these things.  I don't see where the fluid is going.  I had 
> the same
> >reservoirs on my first KR, but with Goodyear wheels and brakes and 
> I never
> >had to fill them.  I guess you get what you pay for and I will have 
> to be
> >more diligent about filling them on a schedule.
> >Daniel R. Heath
> +++
> 
> Loosing that much fluid should leave a tell tale sign somewhere.
> If you have any in-line fittings, like in the wing, etc., I'd be 
> checking
> for some leaks.  If you're running "plastic" lines they tend to 
> soften
> at the brake attach with excessive braking and may be leaking
> there.  I've only had to top my reservoirs once in 3 years and
> 260 hours and that was when I changed wheels and brakes.
> 
> Larry Flesner

KR> Interesting landing at LAM

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Interesting landing as two Bonanzas landed stacked on top of each other
at my airport today.  Both approached the airport simultaneously, with
one apparently on the wrong frequency.
http://www.krqe.com/expanded.asp?ID=18029

Jeff Scott

KR> KR PLans on CD

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Don't know if anyone else wrote to the seller, but I did question him on
his ethics.  

He replied:   
These CDs were purchased by me at an airshow about a month ago. When
these are gone, that's it - and they are being sold under the Right of
Frst Resale and are not copies made by me. 

I also sent a note to Ebay questioning the legality of this guy selling
Rand Robinson's intellectual property.

You will note that the sale was ended.  

Jeff Scott


On Tue, 17 Oct 2006 16:03:03 -0500 "Mark Jones" 
writes:
> This is interestingcould it be a copyright infringement?
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/KR-2-EXPERIMENTAL-AIRCRAFT-PLANS-ON-CD_W0Q
QitemZ120041686142QQihZ002QQcategoryZ26441QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZVi
ewItem
> 
> Mark Jones (N886MJ)
> Wales, WI
> My Web site: http://www.flykr2s.com/
> Mailto:flyk...@wi.rr.com

KR> Charles Reeves

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Wed, 04 Oct 2006 19:19:59 -0400 "Dana Overall" 
writes:
> I just spoke with Charles and thought I'd relay what happened to him
after 
> his off runway excursion the other day.  Seems the same fine folks Mark

> Jones ran into in Superman's town were at Charles's mishap.  Someone
there, 
> after finding out Charles's daughter and husband were on the way said,
"tell 
> them to stop, I have a dual axles trailer you can borrow".  Charles and
his 
> wife are going back this weekend to spend some time in that area of AZ
and 
> return the trailer.  Elaine and I are flying to Tucson tomorrow and
plan on 
> having dinner with Charles and his wife.
> 
> I have many times, it is not the airplane...IT IS THE 
> PEOPLE.
> 
> Thanks gang for the association,
> 
> Dana Overall

If you've never been into St John's AZ, it's a worthwhile stop on a cross
country flight.  Mogas cheaper than you can buy it in town.  Lowest price
around on AVGAS.  Gary, the airport manager, is a great guy.  They were
closed when I stopped there to refuel last Thanksgiving while on my way
to Tucson.  Gary came out and fueled me anyway.  He groused at me the
whole time, then as I was leaving said with a smile that I had actually
got him out of doing the dishes.  I've been stopping in there for the
last 18 years.  They always give you a county car and send you to town
for a meal if you want.  It's a must stop fuel and meal stop if you're
headed across Arizona.

Jeff Scott

KR> Gathering

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

I arrived at KLAM (Los Alamos) at 2:45 MDT after two 20 minute fuel stops
in Coffeeville, MO and Dalhart, TX.   7.9 hours in the cockpit bucking
strong headwinds.  

When I went off frequency to land in Los Alamos, Steve Glover and Richard
Shirley were near Gallup, NM planning their second fuel stop for
Holbrook,AZ with about 4 hours left to make it home.

When I last talked to Charlie Reeves and Lee VanDyke I was over Enid,Ok
while they were dropping into Allen County, MO for their second fuel
stop.  

Thanks for the good time at the Gathering.  It was a blast as usual. 
Time to start sorting through those hundreds of photos already on the
web.  They make such great screen savers and wall paper!

Best regards,

Jeff Scott
N1213W


On Sun, 1 Oct 2006 16:08:00 -0400 Joe H Horton
 writes:
> Guys,
> Arrived at UKT at 3pm EDT.  4 hrs and 40 min in route with a 
> 50
> min lay over in Ohio. Average ground speed was 180 mph. 
> Thanks for the memories.
> Joe Horton, Coopersburg, Pa.
> joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

KR> OLD KR2 BROCHURE SPECS From 1976

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Fri, 22 Sep 2006 08:12:37 -0500 "Stephen Teate"
 writes:
> "A Ray Jay Turbo Charger has been installed which raised the cruise
> speed to 230 mph at 18,000 feet."
> 
> A KR at 18,000 feet! I love it!
> 
> Stephen Teate
> Paradise, Texas
> 

My normally aspirated KR has been to 15,500' many times, although my
normal cruise out here in the SW mountains is usually 9500' - 12,500'.  

Jeff Scott
N1213W

KR> KRs flying in from the West

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

For those KRs that will be flying to MVN from the west, let's check our
travel plans and see if we can't link up along the way.  I'll be leaving
Los Alamos, NM at first light on Thursday morning, will likely be
cruising at 9500' monitoring 123.45MHZ and will try to remember to make a
call in the blind to other KRs periodically.  Terry Chizak and I will try
to get linked up over middle to eastern Kansas around noon.  Although I
will likely be 150 miles south of him, our radios reach a long ways when
at altitude.  Two years ago I was talking to Terry from western OK while
he was in mid Kansas.

Any other KRs out west want to let me know their travel plans and try to
link up (at least via radio) along the way?  Lee?  Rob?  Any others?

Jeff Scott
N1213W

KR> Fuel Supply

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

You will find that the carbureted Pipers have a single fuel line with the
electric pump in line with the mechanical pump.  

Jeff Scott



On Sun, 24 Sep 2006 12:23:47 -0700 (PDT) "Larry H." 
writes:
> Ray,
> A lot of certified aircraft, usually low wing aircraft have a 
> mechanical pump on the engine and an electric pump for start up, 
> takeoff and landing. The electric pump is turned off during normal 
> flight (unless the mechanical pump quits of course). There is a 
> bypass system though. There is a way to hook it up that is dangerous 
> that some have done in the past and I must be getting old because I 
> can not remember the wrong way that looks correct. Maybe if I sleep 
> on it I will remember but I do know one thing and that is that you 
> do not want only a single fuel line from the mechanical pump going 
> to the carb and the electric pump only pumping to the mechanical 
> pump if that is your question. I will take a shot here and say that 
> you just place a T fitting in the carburetor fuel inlet with the 
> electric fuel line attached to one of the inlet legs of the T 
> fitting and the mechanical fuel pump line in the other. As Mark said 
> there should be a one way valve just on the engine side of the
>  electric fuel pump to keep the mechanical pump from pumping gas 
> back through the electric pump. The electric pump may have such a 
> valve built into it, I can not remember. My old Mooney is set up 
> this way. On the other hand my old Bonanza has a pressure carburetor 
> on it, the closest thing to a fuel injection system in the old days. 
> The pump supplies more fuel to the carb than it uses so there is a 
> return line back to the left main tank for the excess fuel. That is 
> why when you fly a Bonanza you always takeoff on the left tank, this 
> is assuming your left tank is full of fuel when you take off so you 
> can free up fuel tank space for the returning fuel by burning that 
> fuel first. If you were to takeoff on the right tank or auxilary 
> tank for example while the left tank is full, then all returning 
> fuel to the left main will be pumped overboard through the vent 
> line.
> Someone correct me if the hookup I described is wrong.
>  
> Larry H.
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> I have an 1835 VW engine, with a Facet fuel pump feeding into a 
> Bosch mechanical fuel pump. to an EFS-2..
>Will fuel flow through the mech, pump when it (the Bosch) is 
> not pumping?
>  
>  Ray Goree
> Ray Goree
> 817-795-4779
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

KR> KR2S

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Since the Corvairs are turning roughly 3300 RPM and the Franklin produces
it's power at roughly 2800 RPM, the prop pitch for a Corvair isn't much
help for a guy looking for a prop for a Franklin.  

Call or write to one of the manufacturers of props for homebuilts.  Most
want to know the engine, HP, and expected RPM at and expected speed. 
They will custom build a prop to suit your needs.  Some prop builders are
better at it than others.  You may also wish to use one of the many
ground adjustable props.  I think there are several available in Europe,
as well as the Warp Drive here in the US.  Stay away from the IVO prop. 
The IVOs are accidents looking for a place to happen.  Read Orma's
problems with the IVO
 if you need a
reminder.

Jeff Scott
N1213W
http://www.vla.com/jscott/kr/2005mods.html


On Sun, 17 Sep 2006 17:43:31 -0400 Joe H Horton
 writes:
>  Andy,
> I am using a 54 x 60 Sensenich on a 3100 cc corvair that gets
> 3350rpm in cruise at 172mph true airspeed and 2950 rpm climb at 80 mph
> and 1000 to 1500 foot per min. climb -depending on the weather.
> 
> Joe Horton, Coopersburg, Pa.
> joe.kr2s.buil...@juno.com
> 
> On Sun, 17 Sep 2006 16:40:53 -0400 "Colin Rainey"
>  writes:
> > WW recommends the Sensenich 54 x 54 for that hp range (some Corvairs
are
> > approaching that). I would start there and depending on your
particular
> > construction (ie: how clean) adjust the pitch from there. This is
also
> > depending on prop clearance being 8 to 9 inches to allow for max gear
> > compression and still no prop strike. You may want to call Sensenich
and ask
> > what they recommend as a starting point with 125 hp... Might be 54 x
60
> > (Mark L bogged his 3100 cc down with that).
> > 
> > Colin Rainey
> >> Hi Guys,
> > 
> > I`m from Hamburg Germany and bought a used KR2S  in boot stage with
an
> > new Franklin engine with 125 hp. Does anyone have experience with 
this
> > engine ???
> > 
> > If yes what kind of prop should i use ???
> > 
> > thanks a lot in front
> > 
> > Andy

KR> aviation fuel vs autogas

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Actually, Avgas has a lower vapor pressure, so doesn't cool the carb as
much during atomization.  Thus it freezes less water out of the air and
is less prone to cause carb ice when conditions are ripe for carb icing.

Avgas is also refined diffferently and does not have the varnishes and
oils that are present in Mogas.  Many aircraft sit for long periods of
time between flights.  Avgas won't break down and leave contaminants in
the fuel system.  It will also retain it's octane rating after long
periods of storage.  If you have ever cleaned parts with Avgas, you will
also see that it leaves no smelly oily residue.  Additionally, Avgas has
guaranteed qualities.  

The down side, 100LL contains roughly 4 times the amount of lead that was
in the old 80/87 red Avgas.  More lead than necessary for some of the
older engines and the lead is completely unnecessary for most of the auto
engines.  

Jeff Scott


On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 16:33:36 -0700 larry severson 
writes:
> 
> >Avgas is reckoned to be less prone to carb icing - not sure why 
> that
> >would be.
> 
> Less water in the gas!
> 
> >The lead in avgas also helps reduces valve seat wear.
> >
> >Avgas is also stored under somewhat better conditions than your 
> average
> >forecourt You are much less likely to buy a quarter a pint of rain 
> water
> >water with your 10 gals of fuel.
> 
> Also, for those with lawn mowers, remember the problems starting 
> after not running all winter.
> With avgas, I have started an engine that has sat 4 years with the 
> gas remaining in the tank, Try that with mogas.
> 

KR> aviation fuel vs autogas

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Actually, Avgas has a lower vapor pressure, so doesn't cool the carb as
much during atomization.  Thus it freezes less water out of the air and
is less prone to cause carb ice when conditions are ripe for carb icing.

Avgas is also refined diffferently and does not have the varnishes and
oils that are present in Mogas.  Many aircraft sit for long periods of
time between flights.  Avgas won't break down and leave contaminants in
the fuel system.  It will also retain it's octane rating after long
periods of storage.  If you have ever cleaned parts with Avgas, you will
also see that it leaves no smelly oily residue.  Additionally, Avgas has
guaranteed qualities.  

The down side, 100LL contains roughly 4 times the amount of lead that was
in the old 80/87 red Avgas.  More lead than necessary for some of the
older engines and the lead is completely unnecessary for most of the auto
engines.  

Jeff Scott


On Mon, 18 Sep 2006 16:33:36 -0700 larry severson 
writes:
> 
> >Avgas is reckoned to be less prone to carb icing - not sure why 
> that
> >would be.
> 
> Less water in the gas!
> 
> >The lead in avgas also helps reduces valve seat wear.
> >
> >Avgas is also stored under somewhat better conditions than your 
> average
> >forecourt You are much less likely to buy a quarter a pint of rain 
> water
> >water with your 10 gals of fuel.
> 
> Also, for those with lawn mowers, remember the problems starting 
> after not running all winter.
> With avgas, I have started an engine that has sat 4 years with the 
> gas remaining in the tank, Try that with mogas.
> 

KR> KR2 with C65 Engine

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Yes, the mount will fit the whole small Continental series.  However, the
mounting pads are different for the O-200 and will move the engine
forward about 1".  The C-85 will bolt up with the same parts.

There are other "Gotchas" in mounting up an engine with starter and
Alt/Gen depending on which accessory and mount you have, but they can and
have all been resolved by people here on the net.

Jeff Scott.
N1213W
573 hours on the KR and counting down to the Gathering.

On Mon, 4 Sep 2006 20:36:09 -0400 "Benjamin Copeland"
 writes:
> I've been looking at a KR2 with a C65 engine which means 
> hand-propping .  Does anyone
> happen to know if the motor mount for a C65 will work with a C85 or 
> 0200? I'd like to work towards gettin
> a engine with a starter and more HP if possible while using the same 
> mount. Would weight possibly
> a problem with the C85 or 0200?
> 
> Ben
> just2...@together.net
> ___

KR> KR net BS

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

It may be time to restrict the posts to those that have plans or flying
KRs.  All others can be read only.  It's a method filtering down the
posts to serious builders and flyers.

Jeff Scott
N1213W

On Sat, 26 Aug 2006 22:03:02 -0500 "Mark Jones" 
writes:
> Great.that's two so far tonight..who's next? Maybe me!!!
> 
> Mark Jones (N886MJ)
> Wales, WI 
> Visit my web site: www.flykr2s.com
> E-mail: flyk...@wi.rr.com

KR> N64KR - Black Bird

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Congratulations Dan!  That's been a long time coming.  You may find that
your CG is perfect, but your tail incidence being off just a little will
leave you with a lack of nose up trim.  Remember the big trim strips that
were under the trailing edge of the elevators on my old tail?  My CG was
perfect, but the tail incidence wasn't.  That was corrected when I built
the new tail.

Congrats again!

Jeff Scott


On Sun, 27 Aug 2006 18:53:29 -0400 (Eastern Daylight Time) "Dan Heath"
 writes:
> Obviously you have not seen my web site and WB spread sheets.  The 
> entire WB
> process is documented in great detail.  Take out some fuel, put in 
> a
> passenger, and you have a different situation.  Maybe it will test 
> so good
> that I can actually add a baggage compartment.
> 
> I can't believe you said that. 
>  
> See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics 
> See you in Mt. Vernon - 2006 - KR Gathering
> There is a time for building and a time for FLYING and the time for 
> building
> is OVER.
> Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

KR> flaps

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Actually, the web page with the flap mods, tail mods, photos, my opinions
and analysis is still up.  The process I did is well documented with
photos.
< http://www.vla.com/jscott/kr/2005mods.html>

Jeff Scott


On Fri, 18 Aug 2006 13:07:49 -0500 "Oscar Zuniga" 
writes:
> I think Jeff Scott will probably spot this discussion and pipe in 
> here 
> somewhere, but in case not- he retrofitted his KR2S with new flaps 
> and 
> actuation and documented the performance differences and 
> installation quite 
> well.  The photos aren't out there anymore, but the discussion can 
> be found 
> using the KRNet search engine.  One such post is Jeff's from Sept. 
> 22, 2005, 
> when you search on "Jeff Scott flaps" at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/
> 
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildr...@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net

KR> Re: CorvAircraft> near miss?

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Actually, it generates some healthy discussion as well as the usual net
hoopla. 

One thing worth mentioning is that Mark said his Transponder was out for
repairs.  If he would have had a functioning transponder, he would
probably have never seen the Grumman as the Grumman would have seen him
on TCAS and would have deviated to avoid him.  Additionally, the Grumman
was probably on an IFR flight plan and would have been advised by center
to deviate for traffic.

I have met a C-210 head on at 11,500 while enroute from Phoenix to Los
Alamos.  From the time from when you see him until he is past you with a
head on closing speed of 300+ knots is only a second or two.  Very little
time to react.  It's a good reason to have a transponder and maybe use
flight following if you're up high where you can mix it up with the big
boys.  Sometimes the big sky isn't quite big enough.

Jeff Scott
N1213W



On Mon, 7 Aug 2006 19:58:36 -0500 "Mark Langford" 
writes:

> Maybe I should have pointed out that I was flying at 9500' for most 
> of the 
> trip, in widely scattered clouds.  9500' was a "proper" atltitude 
> given my 
> heading, which was about 2 degrees off from straight north.  At one 
> point 
> there was a rather large cloud in front of me, so in order to meet 
> FAA 
> minimum cloud clearance, I climbed as high as I could without 
> breaking the 
> 10,000' limit, since I had no transponder at the time.  I usually 
> make a 
> habit of flying at either 9500' or 10,500', but lately my 
> transponder's been 
> in the shop so I have to use 8500' and 9500'.   I climbed to ' 
> (I was 
> really kidding about that, but I climbed somewhat over 9500 feet to 
> put some 
> distance between me and the cloud, since at that time of day they 
> tend to be 
> rising).  I believe it's allowed to deviate from the odd 500' rule 
> if 
> climbing or decending, which is what I was doing at the time.
> 
> At times I mention "buzzing" something like my friend's house or my 
> own 
> house.  These are not below 500' AGL, as I do live in a sparsely 
> populated 
> area.  I guess I need to tone down or eliminate the "pilot reports", 
> because 
> they only seem to generate a whole bunch of hoopla that has nothing 
> to do 
> with either KRs or CorvAircraft, so consider it the end of such 
> comments 
> from me...
> 
> Mark Langford, Harvest, AL
> see homebuilt airplane at http://www.N56ML.com
> email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net

KR> A cautionary tale

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sun, 6 Aug 2006 12:48:45 EDT bearlk...@aol.com writes:
> Netters;
> I just bought a KR2 project with Diehl wing skins. The builder had 
> used the 
> wrong glue and very poor technique to assemble the wings. It took me 
> less than 
> an hour and a couple of hand tools to ply them apart. The glue 
> simply did not 
> adhere to the wing skin, the bonds popped apart with hand pressure. 
> The 
> builder was obviously not a man to follow instructions, and I felt 
> it was at least 
> an amusing cautionary tale. 
> Had this gotten to the air, it would have delaminated very quickly. 
> OUCH!  
> (the seller was a gracious gent from Tx and not the builder, he let 
> me know what 
> the issues were up front.)
> Incedently, I am very pleased with my purchase, I will salvage the 
> skins and 
> use a lot of the other parts to save a fair amount of time and 
> money.  
> 
> 
> Bob Polgreen
> Boat stage and parts
> Nowthen MN

I found the same problem (and worse) when I acquired my KR project.  The
first builder had failed to scrub the mold release off the skin before
attempting to bond them together.  It peeled apart quite nicely. :o) 
Despite the various problems, buying a partial project was a bit time
saver and it now has 9 years and 580 flight hours behind it.

Jeff Scott
N1213W

KR> Subaru / 0-200 / 0-235 engines

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Fri, 04 Aug 2006 17:34:37 -0500 Larry Flesner
 writes:
> 
> >
> >My other option has been using an O-200 or 235.
> >Fred Johnson
> +
> 
> Check the parts cost on the 0-235 Lyc.  I've heard they are quite
> expensive.
> 
> My advise.  Go with a good running 0-200, keep the empty weight
> to 650 lbs or less ,(not like my 765 empty) and use the longer 
> wings
> as in the Diehl skins.  You will have a good performer, even at 
> your
> altitude.  I think Jeff Scott flies out of a 7000 ft airport in New 
> Mexico.
> He probably flies solo most of the time but he's not a little guy 
> either. :-)
> 
> Larry Flesner

My KR been based at KLAM at 7171' since it was finished in 1997.  The
first 350 hours were behind a C-85.  The last 250 have been behind a high
compression O-200.  Typical summer Density Altitudes are 9000 - 9500'.

I thought I was flying in the low lands when I picked up my Tomahawk at
Reno-Stead. ;o)

Jeff Scott
N1213W

KR> Re: revmaster_spark_plugs?

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

The Franklin Aircraft engines used a 14 mm aircraft spark plug.  The
plugs can be found.  I think you'll do better to use automotive plugs and
shielding from Great Plains.

I use the 14 mm adapter from my automotive compression gauge to adapt my
compression differential tester for Franklins and VWs.  It has the same
common air hose coupling, so works fine.

Jeff Scott


On Thu, 2 Feb 2006 07:39:17 -0500  writes:
> The main reason I ask is to figure out if I could use a conventional 
> 
> automotive compression gauge to check cylinder compression.  I need 
> to make 
> sure that the cylinder compressions aren't too high on a motor that 
> I am 
> looking at purchasing.  Just trying to determine if I'd need an 
> adapter to 
> make an auto compression gauge work on a revmaster engine with Mahle 
> 94mm 
> cylinders installed.
> 
> While I'm on the subject.  Is there an adapter available that would 
> allow 
> for the use of an aviation compression/leak down test?
> 
> Bill Zink
> Columbus, OH
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely. That is standard automotive plugs.
> 
> Who would want aircraft spark plugs anyway? They cost ten or twenty 
> times
> more, and are very old, inefficient and unreliable technology. The 
> only
> engine I know VW engine that does that is the Limbach, and that's 
> because
> it's a certified engine, and the authorities would not give them a
> certification unless they went that route.
> 
> 
> Just wondering if the revmaster 2100d uses automotive spark plugs.  
> I
> spoke with Joe at revmaster and he said that they were 14mm so I am
> assuming this is an automotive plug since aircraft plugs aren't 
> sized
> in metrics.  Is 14mm a standard size plug?
> 
>   Bill Zink
>   Columbus, OH
> 

KR> resins once again

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

I have used about 4 gallons of Aeropoxy and a couple of gallons of West
System epoxy for laminating in the last 8 months.  Aeropoxy will give you
a longer pot life and significantly longer open time on the layup, even
during the summer months.  The new tail on my KR was built with mostly
Aeropoxy.  I also use it extensively in vacuum bagging parts at work.  So
far, I've not had any complaints about it.

West System epoxy also works well for laminating.  It is more viscus than
Aeropoxy, and has a shorter open time.  It is also much more prone to
exothermic reactions while in the mixing cup, especially during warm
weather.  I keep both on hand and use both to take advantage of their
unique working qualities.

Jeff Scott


On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 15:05:30 -0800 larry severson 
writes:
> 
> >.but what about for composite epoxies?
> 
> Aero Poxy appears very good. It has a room temp (77 degree) delink 
> temp of 180+ degrees.
> 
> >Who's using what?
> 
> I have been quite happy with EZ Poxy, but I will be shifting to Aero 
> Poxy.
> 
> Larry Severson
> Fountain Valley, CA 92708
> (714) 968-9852
> lar...@socal.rr.com 

KR> Brakes

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

John,

There are a couple of things that can be going on here.  

#1, make absolutely sure you are using 5606 hydraulic fluid.  In a pinch,
sometimes Automatic Transmission Fluid gets used instead of 5606
hydraulic.  I have seen it cause the brakes to slowly lock up as
described in your previous email.  Both brakes at the same time from
independent master cylinders!  At first I thought it was a master
cylinder porting problem, but it turned out that the owner had used ATF
instead of 5606.  When the fluid was changed out for 5606, the problem
went away and never returned.  

#2, make sure your master cylinders are not overserviced, and that they
vent externally properly.  Otherwise, as the fluid warms up, it expands
in the direction that moves easiest.  If that happens to be the slave
cylinders, your brakes will drag or lock.

Jeff Scott


On Mon, 30 Jan 2006 08:58:47 +1100 "Martindale Family"
 writes:
> Hi Larry
> 
> The problem occurs on both sides which are independent of each other 
> so I reckon its something to do with the design or my setup. The 
> Great Plains model has a resevoir integral with the master cylinder. 
> I have the master cylinders mounted vertically in a toe/heel 
> arrangment with the plunger downwards and bleeder at the top and 
> maybe this affects the way the internal ports (?) compensate. 
> It would really help if I knew how they work. I need a picture.  
> 
> As you say, it is possible the plunger is binding and not free to 
> travel back to its start position but equally there is no particular 
> force like a spring or anything to do this. It must rely on residual 
> pressure to return it. Maybe I'll pull one down and navel gaze it. 
> It doesn't happen as a result of me applying and releasing brakes 
> but rather after a period of sitting still..they sort up pump 
> themselves up on their own!!..typical of my aircraft...a mind of 
> its own.
> 
> John
>  
> Martindale Family
> 29 Jane Circuit
> TOORMINA NSW 2452
> AUSTRALIA
> 
> ph:  61 2 66584767
> email: johnja...@optusnet.com.au
> web: http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/johnjanet/Martindale.htm

KR> Spar length/spins

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 06:45:58 -0600 Larry Flesner
 writes:
> 
> >
> >Nontheless, I would be interested to know how a KR behaves in a 
> spin
> 
> >with fuel only in the outer tanks. Anyone tried it. :-)
> >
> >  John.
>
+
+
> 
> My KR has outer wing panel tanks only.  It's stall is very gentle 
> and straight
> ahead.  I'm not about to kick full rudder at that point to satisfy 
> ANYONES
> curiosity.  :-)
> 
> Larry Flesner

Well, I have.  I only did 1/2 turn and didn't allow the spin to fully
develop, but the recovery was uneventful..  That was while the plane
still had the small tail on it.  And yes, my plane does have outboard
wing tanks that were at least partially filled at the time.

Jeff Scott

KR> KR insurance

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sat, 21 Jan 2006 13:50:13 -0600 "Mark Langford" 
writes:
> >  Insurance is a whole new ballgame and I haven't got that far so
> 
> Falcon Insurance (830-257-1000) insured my Corvair powered KR2S 
> through AIG, 
> complete with hull insurance, as well as liablity.  Cost was $1500 
> for 
> $25,000 hull insurance, and a million dollars liability.  I expect 
> that 
> price to drop dramatically now that I have 125 hours on my plane (it 
> will be 
> over 200 by the time I renew) and over 500 landings.  I think 
> liability 
> alone was something like $800.  I also hear Sky Smith is good.


$1M liability on my KR was $300/yr starting with the first flight in
1997.  After 9 years, it's up to $318/yr now.  The price varies between
underwriters, but also depends a great deal on the pilot's experience
level as well.

Jeff Scott

KR> carb heat

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Wicks and Aircraft Spruce both sell a small Cessna style carb heat muff
for around $45.   I've been using this on my KR since it's first flight. 
It works well, is light weight, dirt simple and will clamp onto almost
any exhaust stack.

Jeff Scott


> I still have not yet flown mine, which has an Aeronca Champ-style 
> heat muff 
> on the starboard side exhaust stack of the A-65 engine and which was 
> 
> woefully insufficient at providing heat to the carb.  I've since 
> added some 
> fins to the stack inside the muff area as well as some baffling to 
> the muff 
> so that the incoming air doesn't just shoot straight through to the 
> SCAT 
> hose leading down to the air box.  If I don't get a good, solid RPM 
> drop on 
> application of heat, I'll continue to revise the setup... but no 
> steel wool 
> ;o)
> 
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildr...@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net

KR> Polliwagen

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Mon, 09 Jan 2006 23:53:36 -0600 "Steve Bray" 
writes:
> Jeff in Los Alamos
> Look at e-bay #4602717806.
> Do you know the builder?
> 
> Steve Bray
> Jackson, Tennessee

Interesting.  Since I was the EAA Tech counselor for the last 8 years, I
can tell you that whoever is building this is not involved in EAA, nor
have I ever met him or seen the project.  

I see that there's only a day or so until the auction closes.  Too bad as
I wouldn't mind running down there to check it out.  Actually, I could
probably slip away and get down there to take a look if someone is really
interested and can get me the guy's phone number.

Jeff

KR> High EGTs

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Wed, 4 Jan 2006 05:30:51 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time) "Dan Heath"
 writes:
> Stanley,
> 
> If you are truly running 1800 EGT, I think that you are burning your 
> engine
> up. The reason for asking about the meter and mixture control was 
> to
> determine if you have a way to adjust the mixture from the cockpit 
> and if
> you have another way of verifying those extraordinary temperatures. 
> I think
> that if your mixture is lean to the point that you get a true 1800, 
> that
> your engine would not run. And if the air-fuel ratio meter is 
> telling you
> that your mixture is correct, then the EGT gauge is faulty. You said 
> that
> you have the standard intake system, so unless you have done 
> something
> upstream of the air-fuel sender, your mixture is correct.

Stanley,

I suspect your high readings are either EGT probe placement or a
gauge/meter mismatch.  EGTs simply do not keep getting hotter as you lean
out.  What happens is that you reach a peak temperature as you lean, then
the EGT temp starts dropping off.  That's where the idea of running "Lean
Of Peak" comes in.  In that case you lean until you reach peak EGT.  The
actual EGT number is irrelevant.  Then you continue to lean until your
leanest cylinder is 50 degrees cooler than the peak EGT.  I'm not
necessarily advocating LOP operations, but am citing this as an example
of hitting peak EGT, then continuing to lean.  Most properly installed
EGTs on a normally aspirated engine will show the peak EGT somewhere
between 1300 and 1600 degrees depending on altitude.  

It seems that you listed your probe installation as 8" from the exhaust
port in a previous post.  I would suggest remounting them 4" from the
exhaust port.  You will also want to check for appropriate connections,
correct wiring, etc.

Jeff Scott

KR> cabin heat

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 13:46:27 -0500 "patrusso" 
writes:
> Anyone out there experiencing lots of condensation on the windscreen, 
> 
> inside?  My arms are not long enough to wipe the screen. A defroster 
> looks 
> like a practical solution to the cab heat discussion.

Extended use of a defroster (like forgetting to shut it off once airborn)
will cause crazing of the canopy where the hot air hits it.  I mop the
inside of the canopy with a paper towel until takeoff.  Once airborn, the
condensation stops.

While NM isn't known for being particularly cold, high in the mountains
where I live it's as cold as the midwest where I grew up (Iowa).  I
didn't install a heat exchanger in my KR until the third winter I had it.
 Sunshine on the canopy was sufficient to keep me warm.  When I was
flying away from the sun, it got cold in a hurry, which is why I
eventually added the heat exchanger.  Kind of hard to always avoid flying
away from thge sun. :o)

Jeff Scott
N1213W

KR> 100 hours on the KR today

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

With 550 hours of KR time and a couple of thousand in tailwheels, I'd say
that your technique is A-OK. Your numbers are close enough to mine that
the differences in calibration could account for it, let alone the
differences in airframes and wings.

With the addition of flaps to my plane, my technique has changed to much
the same as yours, except that my downwind is usually a bit faster and my
final is a touch slower.

I use my turn to base to get slowed almost down to flap speed and my turn
to final to slow to flap speed, then drop the flaps as needed for final.

Hmm.  Enough of this talk.  It's a gorgeous day.  I think it's time to go
drag the KR out of the hanger...

Jeff Scott
N1213W




On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 14:47:21 -0600 "Mark Langford" 
writes:
> Dick wrote:
> 
> > Since you have been the whole course, perhaps you can share with 
> us your 
> > entry and landing techniques.
> 
> The way I land is apparently not the "recommended" way, but I have 
> to land 
> pretty quick on the short bumpy airport that I fly out of (2600' x 
> 40'). 
> Even Troy gets antsy when he has to land there. And since I have 
> split 
> flaps, I'm probably the only guy this procedure applies to.
> 
> I fly about a 1200' pattern and try to be doing 110-120mph on 
> downwind when 
> I get to the end of the runway.  At that point I cut it back to 1600 
> rpm or 
> so and start slowing and descending until I get to the 45 degree 
> point from 
> the end of the runway, then turn base. Hopefully I'm doing about 100 
> mph at 
> this point.  If it looks like I might be high I'll drop the flaps, 
> or if I'm 
> low I'll wait on flaps, and add or pull power as necessary.  I try 
> to 
> maintain 90 while turning final, and most of the way to the ground, 
> then end 
> up doing a little less over the end of the runway.  The split flaps 
> keep 
> slowing me down as I cross the end of the runway and get in ground 
> effect, 
> and often I notice that my touchdown is in the high sixties 
> according to the 
> GPS.
> 
>  Since it's a wheel landing, I really don't do that much of a 
> flare...just 
> enough to break the descent and try to gradually touch down.  
> Sometimes I 
> end up three pointing the thing.  I guess I operate in the range 
> just 
> between wheel landings and full stall landings.  As soon as the 
> wheels 
> touch, I give it some forward stick to plant it and then hold the 
> tail up 
> until I'm below flying speed, or start to run out of runway (that's 
> pretty 
> rare though).  Then full stick back and brake, if necessary.  I 
> usually 
> don't touch the brakes at all though.
> 
> I'm sure everybody that knows anything about flying will disagree 
> with this 
> technique, but it works for me.   I have no business telling anybody 
> how to 
> land a KR., but I did about 8 landings yesterday, and the g-meter 
> was still 
> sitting on 1g when I landed, so I'm good enough for KR work...
> 
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
> see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
> email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net 

KR> aerovee question

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Dene,

That is the problem.  Several Prop Hubs eliminate the "screw" seal and
have a rubber seal added externally to the case.  Often times they leak.

Jeff  Scott

On Sat, 17 Dec 2005 22:41:06 +0200 "AVLEC"  writes:
> William
> The type 1 motor does not have a seal at that end of the motor. It 
> has an
> internal slinger. The pulley (in this case the prop hub) also has a 
> shallow
> screw thread cut into it that  "pumps" the oil back into the motor 
> much like
> an archemedes screw pump.
> Regards
> Dene Collett
> KR2SRT builder
> South africa

KR> mixture leaning/was engine heat

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

The common fix for this is to use 100LL fuel.  Any aviation engine that
is 9:1 compression will also be tagged as 100LL minimum fuel octane
rating.  That changes the lean detonation back into a harmless misfire.

Jeff Scott


On Mon, 28 Nov 2005 07:32:51 -0600 "Oscar Zuniga" 
writes:
> I'll toss out a snip from William Wynne's "broken crank" webpage 
> since it 
> deals with leaning the mixture and may be of interest not just to 
> KR/Vair 
> operators:
> ==
> When leaning, he would lean until he saw a decrease in airspeed, and 
> then 
> slightly enrichen it. The evidence at teardown showed that either 
> this 
> leaning technique or his Ellison EFS-3A installation was the cause 
> of lean 
> operation and evidence of detonation.  In many installations, 
> especially 
> aircraft without mufflers or flown by pilots with headsets, 
> detonation in 
> the plane cannot be heard.  It is important that pilots trained in 
> flying 
> Cessna 150s to lean the aircraft until the engine runs slightly 
> rough and 
> then enrichen it slightly, should not use this technique on a 
> Corvair 
> engine, especially below 8,000 feet.  The difference is simple: a 
> Continental or Lycoming with a compression ratio in the 7:1 range, 
> when 
> excessively leaned from cruise power settings, will experience a 
> lean 
> misfire in the cylinder.  A lean misfire is a harmless event 
> compared to 
> detonation.  Here, the air/fuel mixture has reached a point where it 
> will 
> not ignite.  Conversely, leaning an engine with a 9:1 compression 
> ratio like 
> a Corvair has the potential to detonate the engine long before it 
> lean 
> misfires.  This is aggravated by high available density, as in low 
> altitudes 
> or throttle openings yielding MAPs more than 24".  Corvair engines 
> can be 
> leaned, it just requires an EGT and common sense.  The contribution 
> of 
> detonation to crank failure will be the hardest factor to replicate, 
> model 
> or evaluate.  But, successful builders will avoid detonation for a 
> multitude 
> of reasons, not just its potential contribution to crank failures.
> ==
> 
> 
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildr...@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

KR> O-200 EGT

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 09:15:54 -0600 "Mark Langford" 
writes:
> 
> Brian Kraut wrote:
> 
> I don't know Jack about 0-200 engines, but I do know that many (if  not
most)
> aircraft carbs are set up to enrich the mixture at full throttle  for
> detonation resistance during takeoff.  That's my guess.  It probably 
depends
> on your exact carburetor more than anything else.
> 
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
> see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
> email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
> --

The stock Facet (Marvel Scheibler) MA-3SPA carb is set up to enrichen the
mixture at full throttle to augment cooling and, as Mark said, to help
prevent detonation.  The EGTs on my O-200 also drop at full throttle. 
Since I fly high altitude all the time (including take off), I always
lean for best performance.  When I reduce from full throttle, the engine
will run a little bit rough until I enrichen the mixture a bit.

Jeff Scott
N1213W - Los Alamos, NM

KR> pipe thread plug

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

http://www.bakerprecision.com/adapt6.htm  the fourth fitting down the
page.

Jeff Scott


On Sun, 27 Nov 2005 17:50:38 -0500 "Brian Kraut" 
writes:
> Does anyone know where I can buy an NPT pipe thread hole plug with a 
> hex
> socket head?  I have seen them in aluminum cettified parts before, 
> but
> Spruce and Wicks only have the square head type and I need one that 
> will not
> protrude from the hole.  I can get them in brass with a socket head 
> from the
> hardware store, but for this application I really want them in 
> aluminum.
> 
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

KR> Da loop

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Cristiano,

Go ahead and post your impressions in Italian.  There are many
translation web pages available.  One of us will have your post
translated, then repost it.

Jeff Scott
N1213W 

On Mon, 7 Nov 2005 23:50:20 +0100 "Cris."  writes:
> Oh, well, I forgot (kidding): saturday morning... my first flight on 
> a KR2S.
> 
> Two tonneau.
> That plane is GREAT. My english is not enough. I'll have someone 
> translate
> in italian what I felt :-)
> c.
> 
> 2005/11/7, patrusso :
> >
> > That really wasn't a loop. Looked to me like a parabola performed 
> to
> > achieve
> > a brief moment of weightlessness
> > Now i know why they call it a doggy bag
> >
> > Cristiano..are you still logged on?

KR> Battery Mount

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Mine is done very much like Larry's upper battery.  It sits on a piece of
1/4" angle aluminum with a pair of long holddown bolts and a simple strap
to hold the battery tight against the firewall.  

I was told that with my battery sitting about 3 inches from the left
exhaust pipe, my battery wouldn't last a year.  The first one failed
after 4 1/2 years and 325 hours.  The second one is 4 years old with 210
hours behind it and still functions normally.

Jeff Scott
N1213W




On Fri, 14 Oct 2005 18:25:00 -0500 larry flesner 
writes:
> 
> >I need to mount my sealed 15 amp battery onto my firewall.  
> Does anyone
> >have a picture on their web sight that shows what you have done?  
> Jim Morehead
> +++
> 
> When I moved my battery (main battery) to the firewall, I started
> to build a box/holder but found I didn't have room for anything
> but what you see in the picture at the following address.  The
> battery is setting on a small piece of 1/4" alum angle that is
> fastened to the firewall. The front vertical piece has a small
> alum angle on the bottom edge of the battery to keep it from
> slipping upward.  There are three 1/4" bolts that hold the battery
> to the firewall.  This is a rock solid mount and there is zero
> movement of the battery.  175 hours and no problems.
> 
> http://www.krnet.org/mvn2004/040929139.jpg
> 
> My small backup battery, top battery in the picture, is mounted
> in a similar fashion.
> 
> Larry Flesner
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

KR> Plans!

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Fri, 7 Oct 2005 11:35:24 +0200 "Cris."  writes:
> This is just to say that this morning in Rome FCO Airport Oscar 
> Zuniga took
> the chance of his holiday in Italy for bringing me the plans for 
> KR2S.
> So I'm supposed to be part of the community, now :-)
> 
> Ciao!
> 
> Cristiano.

Yeah.  OZ is a heck of a guy.  Always willing to make a contribution to
further aviation or help another pilot.  I didn't know he had escaped the
country. :o)
Jeff Scott

KR> GPS NAVIGATION WITH WAAS

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sun, 9 Oct 2005 12:24:56 -0500 "Larry H."  writes:
> I realize that a gps unit is not what Mark is looking for but while 
> at Oshkosh this year I looked at the Lowrance 2000C. I was really 
> impressed with them, of course I do not own one nor have I flown 
> with one. I have always been a Garmin lover but for just under 
> $600.00 (at Oshkosh) I could not believe what the 2000C had to 
> offer. I paid $1,200.00 or more for my gray scale Garmin195 years 
> ago. I would take the larger color screen and features of the 
> Lowrance 2000C any day, especially for less then half the price.
> One of the features that intrigued me was the color coding of towers 
> that may be in your pathway and the color coding of terrain that was 
> at higher elevation than your current elevation. It is WAAS capable 
> or will be soon. If I understood or remember correctly it has street 
> info as well.
> Check the site out below, I have looked at the site but it does no 
> justice to the real thing. If you have a chance to see one in person 
> then check one out I think you will be impressed also.
> 
> http://www.lowrance.com/Aviation/Products/AM2000C.asp
> 
> Larry H.

I have been flying with a 2000c for about 8 months now.  Very nice unit. 
I spent 2 1/2 hours this morning picking my way through the mountains and
thunderstorms home to Los Alamos from Copperstate.  Very easy to program
on the fly, very easy to read, very easy to use.  The terrain awareness
upgrade is $95.  Once I started using it, I can't imaging going back to a
grayscale unit.

Jeff Scott
N1213W

KR> A KR kind of weekend

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

I got to spend a fun filed weekend with my KR as well.  The plane has
been flying again for 2 weeks now and has accumulated an additional 14
hours of flight time.  This weekend I was off to the Copperstate Regional
Fly In at Casa Grande, AZ.  The flight down started with an hour of VFR
on top of the clouds cruising at 9500'.  Beautiful flight over top of the
clouds with the mountains sticking up through them.  Lee Van Dyke was
already on the ground when I arrived at Casa Grande with his beautifully
restored KR.  Nice job Lee!  Spent a fun filled weekend looking at planes
topped off with my KR being awarded 1st place for "Best Custom Wood
Aircraft" at the fly in.  We launched off over the mountains for the 330
mile trip home picking our way around clouds and thunderstorms all the
way home.  I spent most of the trip throttled back to 2350 cruising along
with a C-182 for an average fuel burn of 4.5 GPH for the trip.  What a
great little plane!

Jeff Scott
N1213W

KR> views please top heavy pistons / airfilter

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Mon, 10 Oct 2005 15:27:21 -0700 (PDT) Scott William
 writes:
> As for the grooves.yea, an air filter is good, but
> you must balance between your deisred airflow through
> that filter vs. it's filtering capabilities. A 10
> micron paper filter is going to be very restrictive as
> opposed to a cotton gauze/mesh filter like the K
> 
> Keep in mind that some of those verticle grooves may
> have been caused by carbon particles comming loose
> from the combustion chamber, also. It is one of many
> things you will see if you have run it with a rich
> mixture for extended periods.   
> 
> Scott

I have seen grooves in the VW bores from running 100 LL.  We cured this
by cutting .020 off the edge of the piston from the top down to the top
ring land to give the lead sufficient room to build and slough off. 
David Roe ran his 1/2 VW for 700 hours with no further scratching after
modifying the pistons.  The pistons and cylinders looked great when the
case failed after 700 hours. 

We also did the same mod on the 2180 VW I built for my Avid Flyer.  It
also showed no scratching in the bores when I sold it.

Jeff Scott
N1213W

KR> Live your dream

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sun, 02 Oct 2005 19:30:14 -0500 larry flesner 
writes:
> 
> 
> Mark,
> 
> Your having TOO MUCH FUN !
> 
> I'm gonna tell on you to God. I hope he doesn't ask me about
> the 1.5 hours I got in he KR yesterday doing a poker run.  I don't
> think he likes gambling !  :-)
> 
> Larry Flesner
> 


With perfect weather here in the Northern NM mountains, I got to log
another 1.5 on my KR this morning as well.  I got to do a fly-over of the
mountains to view the Aspens at the peak of their most brilliant fall
colors, then descended from 12,500 to 8500' pattern altitude at 190 kts. 
Had to scrub off 100kts of speed to get slow enough to drop the flaps for
the approach.  Boy have I missed having this plane to fly for the last
few months.

Dan Heath was kind enough to put up one last photo of my KR in it's
finished colors at  http://www.krbuilder.org/JeffScott/index.html

Jeff Scott
N1213W

KR> New Web Page

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

I finally put a simple web page together to show this summer's rebuild of
my KR.  If you're interested in the whole painful process (minus about 2
months of sanding) check out http://www.vla.com/jscott/kr/2005mods.html

Jeff Scott
N1213W

KR> EAA Tech Inspectors

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Scott,

Technical counselors are there to help you, but are in no way a
requirement.

The technical counselor and flight advisor programs are EAA programs that
are in place to help you build a better airplane and to help you do a
self evaluation of your skills to fly that plane when it's done.  What
you get is free inspections and advice from someone that has built at
least one plane and completed test flying of that aircraft.  These are
people with the real world experience to answer your questions with sage
advice from someone who has been there.  The EAA recommends a minimum of
three phased inspections.  None are required.  More inspections and
advice are available.  There is no charge for this program.  The most I
ever received for flying 100+ miles and spending a day with a builder was
lunch.  There is no requirement that you be a member of a local chapter,
athough it would be nice if you could contribute back to the group that's
there to help you.  I have probably done more inspections for non-members
than for local chapter members and participated as a tech counselor with
no chapter association for two years.

When it comes time for the FAA inspection, some DARs want to see that you
have been working with a tech counselor as it helps them to know what's
gone into the plane.  Others could care less.  There is no requirement.

With regards to insurance, few insurance companies will issue hull
coverage on a home built plane for the first 10 hours of flight unless
the builder participated in the tech counselor and flight advisor
programs.  Keep in mind, that is only HULL insurance.  I have never seen
any insurance companies withhold liability insurance for not
participating in those programs.

Join the national EAA and the local chapter as a way to contribute back
for a program that is there to help you.  Attend when/if you can.  Use
the Tech Counselor as the resource he's meant to be.  If you can't afford
either the time or money join the local chapter, just join the national
EAA, but use the programs.  They are there to help you.

Jeff Scott
N1213W
A
Former Tech Counselor and Flight Advisor.


On Wed, 5 Oct 2005 13:31:49 -0700 (PDT) Scott William 
writes:
> 
> Recently, since I am embarking on this venture of
> building the KR, I decided to hunt down my local EAA
> chapter and possibly join. Upon speaking to them,
> thier one and only tech inspector recently passed from
> a long illness. Now, here comes reality: I am a member
> of a bunch of clubs that i really don't have time for
> now, and joining another just isn't something I want
> to do. I'm sure they are a great bunch of folks, but I
> just can't split myself a million ways. So, my
> question is this:  Is it absolutely necesasry to have
> EAA tech inspections during the building process? 
> Will the FAA look unfavorably upon me if I don't?
> 
> Scott
> 

KR> intake heat

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 17:58:17 -0500 "Bob Glidden" 
writes:
> Which aircraft have a alternate air on the panel for air to the 
> throttle 
> body and how would your throttle body ice up do to carb ice ? 

Bob,
I believe that if you check out a KCAB Citabria or a Decathelon, you'll
find an alternate air selector so you can switch away from the filtered
air.  Other aircraft later added a spring loaded flapper behind the air
filter so the engine could still draw air should the filter freeze over
or become plugged for any other reason.

Jeff Scott

KR> Jeff Scott's Modifications - Early Flight test results

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Here's my analysis of the changes I have implemented on my KR over the
last 4 months following the FAA's mandated 5 hours of test flying. 
Clearly I'm still a long ways from being done testing, and I'm not done
modifying, although I am a bit burned out on it for now.


The modifications to the horozontal stab and elevator turned out to have
very positive results.  The challenge is how to best quantify the results
into something that makes sense.  I'll start with the new horizontal stab
and elevator.

Incidence:  In building the new stab, I attempted to correct the
incidence.  I need some in flight photos to know how close I got it, but
from the test flight results, I would say it is very close, although a
touch more nose down would probably have resolved my trim problems.  More
on that later.

Stability:  The larger 8 foot span horizontal stab is absolutely
fabulous.  The best example I can give is a comparison that was easy to
make. As I was flying home from the SWRFI in May, after about 3 hours in
the seat my butt was numb, so I let lose of the stick and used my hands
to scootch up in the seat a bit.  That movement with me at 270# caused a
quick 1/2G negative on the G-meter before all the stuff from my right
seat and lap came raining back down on me from the canopy.  I have done
the same thing several times in the last few hours of test flying.  The
plane simply doesn't change in pitch in any noticeable way.  The
stability hands off is abloslutely rock solid.

Feel:  There have been comments in the past that by building a larger
stab to change the stability, the plane would lose it's sporty feel.  I
can easily put that rumor to rest.  The elevator is every bit as quick as
it ever was, although it does have a bit more aerodynamic load on it, so
gives a bit more feedback through the stick.  Credit Mark Langford for
the stab/elevator design and for posting it to his web page.  My
recommendation is to use it.  It works... very well.  I think I can
truthfully say that mine is the only KR to have flown with both tails and
I think my preference is clear.

Wing Root Fairings:
The wing root fairings were created for two purposes.  #1 was to reduce
drag by cleaning up the air flow at the wing root junction with the
fuselage.  #2 was to hide the actuator linkage to the new flaps.  Despite
having added a significant amount of weight to the plane with all the
mods, it has picked up some speed as well.  Not a lot.  The small amount
of testing I have done so far has shown a 4 - 7 mph increase in indicated
airspeed at 9000'.  Density altitude was roughly 11,000' during testing. 
Full throttle straight and level at 9000' used to yield a top indicated
airspeed of 143 mph.  This week I have seen it top out from 147 - 150 mph
IAS at 9000' in various configurations.

Flaps:
The flaps are an absolutely fabulous addition to the plane.  My wing stub
flaps are 11 1/2 x 25" per side and deploy to 37 degrees.  All I can say
is WOW!  I can turn final at 160 indicated, pull the nose up, reduce
power and drop the flaps and this plane will drop out of the sky like a
Cessna.  No more planning the approach from 10 miles out to try to get
down.  I can either reduce flaps or add power to have complete control of
the descent.  No more gliding half the runway in ground effect while the
plane slowly bleeds off speed.  With this much deployable drag, I can
drop the plane on a spot.

A performance requirement that I placed on the flaps was that the plane
had to be able to climb with full flaps.  I took off with the Density
Altitude at 9300' and sluggishly climbed from 7200' (airport altitude)
through 8000'.

Rudder:
In my opinion, the larger rudder has also enhanced the controlability of
the plane.  Between the larger rudder and the drag generated by the
flaps, crosswind landings have changed from a real wrestling match to a
non-event.

Elevator Trim:
I designed my own elevator trim control using biasing springs and the
original MAC trim servo out of the old tail.  This piece is unique to the
geometry of my elevator control system. (see the last two entries under
http://www.vla.com/jscott/kr/index.htm) I have spent the bulk of my test
flying time tuning the trim.  I do have it to a functional level, but not
optimal.  The issue seems to be that at speed the aerodynamic loads on
the elevator is sufficient enough that the biasing spring is unable to
keep the nose down past roughly 145 mph indicated.  This works OK for
cruise at 9000', but may not work so well when I get the plane to a low
altitude (which is rare for me!).  I'm going to be tuning on the trim
control for a while yet.  The challenge is to get enough spring pressure
to trim the elevator while keeping the springs light enough to not ruin
the light feel of the plane.  

Since the required test time is already flown off the plane, in all
likelyhood I will have it at Copperstate again this year despite it's
unfinished state.

Jeff Scott
N1213W

KR> carbon/kevlar cloth vs. Paint

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sat, 17 Sep 2005 20:18:07 -0600 "wilder_jeff Wilder"
 writes:
> Does anyone know about how much weight paint adds to the basic 
> airframe?
> 
> I have come across a carbon/kevlar cloth that is already colored. My 
> 
> thoughts where to use that to side my fuse with and just not paint it.
> The cloth is 5.5 oz... I figure about 2 pounds of cloth and what ever
resin 
> it would need. I had already planned on using a vail cloth to side the
plane 
> with anyway, to provide a nice finish.
> 
> Does anyone have any experince with this cloth?

CF is neart stuff to work with and sands very nicely.  Kevlar is great
for bullet proof vests, but lousy to try to sand and finish.  However, if
you are planning combat duty in your KR, it may be useful. ;o)

Most that responded to a question a few weeks ago said they used about 1
1/2 gallons of paint.  You can weigh a gallon of paint and estimate how
much of the liquid evaporates, but I would guess that the average KR is
carrying roughly 15 - 20 lbs of paint on the exterior.

Jeff Scott

KR> Gathering Report

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

As you probably figured out, I didn't make the trip in my "red haired
step child."  However, since I did have the week off, I spent the whole
week doing nothing but KR work.  Boy do I hate sanding!!!  The good news
is that the major modifications are completed, it is mostly painted again
and should be flying again in 2 - 3 weeks.  Still a number of mods to do
yet, but they are mostly minor in nature.  As I get started flying off a
new phase 1 test period, I'll post photos and descriptions of the changes
and the results.

As you guys think about the schedule for next year's gathering, I'll ask
that you please try to not schedule it as a conflict with the major EAA
fly ins.  I'm thinking of the Copperstate Fly-in in particular which is
in early October .  If you can do that, I'll
do my best to have my KR at next year's gathering.

Jeff Scott
N1213W



On Sun, 11 Sep 2005 16:57:16 -0500 "Mark Jones" 
writes:
> Again, the KR Gathering was an event which should not have been 
> missed. > This raised the question should we do the Gathering late Sept
or 
> early
> October for cooler temps and hopefully better skies. This will be 
> discussed
> later. And as a final note, it was voted on at the banquet to keep 
> the 2006
> Gathering in Mt Vernon. More on that later too. Hope everyone made 
> it home
> safe.
> 
> Mark Jones (N886MJ)
> Wales, WI  USA
> E-mail me at flyk...@wi.rr.com
> Visit my KR-2S CorvAIRCRAFT web site at
> http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj

KR> KR Gathering Warm up...

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Terry Chizek is having his annual Pre-Gathering campout and barbecue
Friday and Saturday of next week.  If you're a real dihard KR enthusiast,
this is the place to be next weekend.

 From Terry:
I'm having my annual cookout & campout  August 26th & 27th.  Campout
friday night and B.B.Q sat at 6:00 pm   At Marion KS  [43K]  This is a
small getogather of some local pilots and four or so kr2 builder and my
three kr2 .  Terry Chizekc15...@netzero.net 

KR>fly-in

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

I'm forwarding this to the KR list for Terry Chizek:   This is a great
little fly-in to catch if you like KRs, great BBQ, and beer.  -  Jeff
Scott


I'm having my annual cookout & campout  August 26th & 27th.  Campout
friday night and B.B.Q sat at 6:00 pm   At Marion KS  [43K]  This is a
small getogather of some local pilots and four or so kr2 builder and my
three kr2 .  Terry Chizekc15...@netzero.net 

KR> Here's lookin at you, Babe

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Scott,

While your point is correct, the air inlet below the prop is fairly
common.  Check out many of the older Continental powered airplanes. 
Champs, Taylorcrafts and Ercoupes come to mind.  They have a slot just
under the prop to allow cooling air to the bottom of the engine and oil
tank.  The winterization kit is to cover the opening.  In my Continental
powered KR, I intentionaly spill air above the air box for oil cooling. 
However, if you are going to allow cooling air under the engine, you do
have to have a little more exit area to produce a more negative area to
augment the cylinder cooling.

Jeff Scott


On Sun, 14 Aug 2005 13:00:06 -0700 (PDT) Scott Cable 
writes:
> Dan,
> Something occurred to me as I was looking at your cowl pictures.
> You stated that the outbd sides of the slot-scoop are going to 
> provide cooling air to the bottom of the engine. If you do that, 
> won't that cause air to stagnate inside the cowling and overheat the 
> engine?  The cooling air from the upper openings behind the prop is 
> high pressure.  By allowing high pressure air to the bottom of the 
> engine, haven't you effectively shut off the flow of air?  To 
> achieve proper cooling, you'll need high pressure / volume air at 
> the top / front of the engine flowing into a low pressure area below 
> and aft of the engine.  In other words, you're needing a pressure 
> differential to achive flow.  I think that maybe you should block 
> off the lower side openings and use the scoop only for carb air, or 
> at least be prepared to do that during flight testing.
> 
> Dan Heath  wrote:
> If you want to see the pics, go to 
> http://kr-builder.org/Cowl/index.html 
> They are the first 7 pics and as always, you can click on any pic 
> for a
> larger view.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scott Cable
> Jamestown, ND
> s2cab...@yahoo.com

KR> center thrust line

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Fri, 15 Jul 2005 22:40:23 -0500 "Mark Langford" 
writes:
> Jeff Wilder wrote:
> 
> > Can someone tell me about how far from the top of the firewall can 
> I find
> > the center of the thrust line.
> 
> I don't know how tall your firewall is, but the thrust line is 
> defined (if
> you can find it) as the top of the upper longerons, although I'm 
> not
> entirely sure that's clearly stated anywhere.  I figured it out from 
> side
> views.  Older newsletters mention 2.375" below the top of the upper
> longerons a time or two for different engines, and that's where mine 
> is,
> because the Corvair fits best there...
> 
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama

The drawing I have from RR for their O-200 engine mount clearly states
that the engine CL is 1 1/2" below the top longeron.  In this case CL is
drawn as the thrust line and references the top of the upper longeron in
the drawing.  Of coursre you'll probably see it clearly stated as
something different on other drawings.  From previous discussions that
should be in the archives, you'll find that people have it all over the
place, but nobody seems to notice any ill effects from it not being
exactly according to any of the specs.

Jeff Scott

KR> wheel pants and trim

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

I've flown with two different types of wheel pants as well as none at
all.  Even flown with all the wheel pant fittings hanging out in the
wind.  No differnce in the trim, although it was much draggier without
the pants.

Jeff Scott


On Sun, 17 Jul 2005 14:56:23 -0500 "Mark Langford" 
writes:
> NetHeads,
> 
> You guys that have flown without and with wheel pants...was there 
> any
> noticeable difference in the trim required when wheel pants were 
> installed?
> The reason I ask is I've never been able to fly with trim in the 
> neutral
> position...it's always nose up, and with flaps I still don't have 
> enough to
> relieve the workload.  I'm thinking about adjusting my horizontal 
> stab down
> a little to try to get a little closer to centered.  I can see how 
> adding
> wheel pants would streamline the wheels, causing less drag about the 
> wheels,
> decreasing the tendency to fly nose down, but I guess I'm trying to 
> get a
> feel for how pronounced the difference is.
> 
> I'm still waiting on my crank and heads (they'll be here this week), 
> so
> today I'm doing airframe stuff, like painting the glare shield flat 
> black,
> wiring the fuel gauge properly, and swapping out the flap switch to 
> one that
> is momentary when in the down position.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
> see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
> email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
> --
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

KR> Matco Brake Linings

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Sat, 9 Jul 2005 19:26:07 -0400 wcraw...@cmhc-schl.gc.ca writes:
> has any one replaced Matco brake linings with Cleveland?  I have 
> Matco 
> brakes, and want to install new linings, will Cleveland linings 
> work?
> 

They should be the same, but the Rapco linings are the ones most of the
mechanics use.  Same quality, less money.  Your local A should have
them in stock, so you can compare.  Since Orma is changing over from
Matco to Clevelands, he can probably tell you for absolute sure as he has
probably rivited hundreds of sets of 5:00x5 linings.

Jeff Scott

KR> Re:Another short report 357CJ

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

I would not advise using copper for brake lines.  Typically you will see
aluminum or stainless steel, or a braided line.  Mine ar Aluminum.  Once
every year or so I usually post the sad tail of one of our local pilots
that burned up his Defiant following the rupture due to heat of nylaflow
tubing for the brakes.  The hydralic hit the hot brakes and caught fire. 
Destroyed his plane.  Plastic tubing should never be used where it may be
exposed to heat.

Jeff Scott
N1213W

On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 14:23:47 -0500 "Mark Langford" 
writes:
> Joe Horton wrote:
> 
> >I have enough
> > tubing there to make the repair but I will be installing a short 
> braided
> > tube to make the connection from the nyflo tube to the caliper.
> 
> Another option would be copper in the same size for a few inches, 
> with a
> union joining up to the original Nylaflow.  The copper would 
> dissipate heat
> pretty quickly, so by the time it got to the union, it wouldn't be a 
> hazard.
> This kind of stuff won't happen in the future, because you won't be 
> doing
> much braking after you're flying.
> 
> Good luck, and stay out of the ditches.  In a few weeks you'll be 
> wondering
> what all the fuss is about...
> 
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
> see KR2S project N56ML at http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford
> email to N56ML "at" hiwaay.net
> --
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

KR> Staples

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Try waxing the staples with floor wax before you load them in the staple
gun.  I shot a bunch of waxed staples into the side of my KR today.  I'll
give you the results after I pull them tomorrow.

Jeff Scott
N1213W
Los Alamos, NM

On Sun, 3 Jul 2005 21:18:31 -0700 "Joe Beyer" 
writes:
> I agree that staples are the thing to use. You've got to have a good 
> bond
> and weights will distort and twist the structure. In the '70's 
> someone
> mailed in an article to the news letter about a method of removing 
> staples.
> Have a pattern drawn on the belly skin on both sides. one is the 
> glue area
> (inside) and the outside is the staple guide. Get some plastic band 
> strap
> material, used for fastening boxes to pallets, and tape it over the 
> staple
> guide lines. Metal won't do. When shooting staples you go through 
> the band
> strap and then through the skin. The next day when the glue has 
> dried just
> pull on one end of the band strap to lift the staples. I didn't use 
> this
> method myself because at the time I hadn't thought of it. It really 
> isn't
> that much work to use a chisel to lift the staple up and grab it 
> with a pair
> of pliers. I filled the indentions with plastic wood that I bought 
> at the
> hardware store.

>>  Sure would be nice not to have to remove those 
>> staples.
> 
> 
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at 
> http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 
> 

KR> Staples

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Mon, 4 Jul 2005 17:53:18 -0600 jscott.pi...@juno.com writes:
> 
> Try waxing the staples with floor wax before you load them in the
staple
> gun.  I shot a bunch of waxed staples into the side of my KR today. 
I'll
> give you the results after I pull them tomorrow.

The waxed staples held fine and pulled easily.  As for wax around the
staple holes, many parts of my plane were laid up in molds waxed with the
same wax.  It cleans up easily enough that painting wasn't a problem.  It
will be a while before I paint these parts, but really don't anticipate
any unusual problems.

Jeff Scott
N1213W
Los Alamos, NM

KR> aileron counter weight

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

On Thu, 07 Jul 2005 20:38:37 -0600 "wilder_jeff Wilder"
 writes:
> 
> Can someone tell me what the length of the counter weight arm is on the

> aileron. I cannot seem to find that information within the plans.
> 
> Jeff

As long as you can make it while not binding or rubbing on the aft spar. 
The longer the arm, the less weight you'll need.

Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM 

KR> glide rato..

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

30" Diehl gear legs.  Larry and I have the only two sets.

Jeff Scott

On Sun, 19 Jun 2005 18:24:38 -0400 "Brian Kraut" 
writes:
> 68" diameter?  What kind of gear legs do you have?
> 
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: krnet-bounces+brian.kraut=engalt@mylist.net
> [mailto:krnet-bounces+brian.kraut=engalt@mylist.net]On Behalf 
> Of
> Jeff Scott
> Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 4:54 PM
> To: kr...@mylist.net
> Subject: Re: KR> glide rato..
> 
> 
> 
> That's probably just the compression ratio.  They typical Cont and 
> Lyc are
> pretty low compression.  The O-235 on my Tomahawk and O-200 on my KR 
> have
> both been upgraded to high compression pistons.  They are very stiff 
> to pull
> against the compression.  At tiny bump in the compression ratio 
> makes a huge
> difference in the way it feels when you pull the prop through.  I've 
> heard
> that referred to as "the engine has good rubber".
> 
> I would bet that the O-200 on my KR won't windmill at glide speeds, 
> even
> with the 68" diameter prop that I use.
> 
> Of course if you're referring to the bearings being tight, that's 
> an
> assembly issue, but that would also show itself via oil pressure 
> and/or
> metal in the oil filter/screen in very short order.
> 
> Come back for the spam can guys: Tell them that theirs would be 
> tight too if
> they had any compression.
> 
> Jeff Scott
> Los Alamos, NM
> 
> -- "Al Friesen"  wrote:
> All,
> I have been told in the hangar group that my VW Revmaster is way too 
> tight.
> All the conts and lyks are easier to turn over than my VW.  Any come 
> backs
> on these Spam can guys. ?
> - Original Message -
> From: "Golden, Kevin" 
> To: "'KRnet'" 
> Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 7:15 AM
> Subject: RE: KR> glide rato..
> 
> 
> >A windmilling prop does more than disturb air over the airframe.  
> A
> > windmilling prop will cause a huge amount of drag that is NEAR 
> equal to
> > the
> > rotational disc of the prop.
> >
> > Not to worry.  I haven't seen a VW or corvair windmill.  Lycoming 
> and
> > Continentals will.
> >
> > Kevin.
> >
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Dennis Mingear [mailto:dennisming...@yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 9:02 AM
> > To: KRnet
> > Subject: Re: KR> glide rato..
> >
> > If the prop stops in a horizontal position it will
> > disturb the airflow over the wing, making it seem
> > smaller than it actually is, this will reduce the
> > planes L/D.
> >
> > If the prop stops vertically the airflow over the wing
> > is not disturbed and you have more effective wing
> > area, producing more lift, which improves the planes
> > L/D.
> >
> > If the prop is windmilling it is intermittantly
> > disturbing the airflow over the wing which is hurting
> > the wings ability to produce lift and hurting the
> > planes L/D.
> >
> > Denny ...
> >
> > --- "Kenneth B. Jones"  wrote:
> >
> >> Perhaps the stopped prop is less drag because it's
> >> stalled.
> >>
> >> Below is data taken from my flight test.  My idle
> >> setting was about 800 to
> >> 900 rpm, a little high, at the time.  Speeds are
> >> indicated knots.  My plane
> >> stalls at about 50 knots indicated so I didn't check
> >> the glide below 60 kts.
> >> Surely the ratio will start back the other way
> >> before it stalls.  I have a
> >> KR-2 with Diehl wings, 3 blade Warp drive taper
> >> blade 58" prop set at 19.5
> >> degrees at the tip, A65, empty weight is 623 lbs.,
> >> full fuel is 14 gal and I
> >> weigh about 180.
> >>
> >>   Glide
> >>   Speed Descent Distance Glide
> >>   kts ft/min NM/1000 ft. Ratio
> >>   60 400 2.50 15.18
> >>   65 442.5 2.45 12.93
> >>   70 525 2.22 11.73
> >>   75 625 2.00 10.56
> >>   80 750 1.78 9.39
> >>   85 800 1.77 9.35
> >>   90 900 1.67 8.80
> >>   95 1100 1.44 7.60
> >>   100 1500 1.11 5.87
> >>
> >>
> >> BTW, Bill's 2.5 miles per 1000 ft altitude is a
> >> glide ratio of 13.2 : 1 (if
> >> I calculated correctly).
> >>
> >> Ken Jones, kenbjo...@cinci.rr.com
> >> Sharonville, OH
> >> N5834, aka The Porkopolis Flying Pig
> >>
> >> - Original Message -
> >> From: "Barry Kruyssen" 
> >> To: "KRnet" 
> >> Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2005 6:31 PM
> >> Subject: Re: KR> what a day./ glide rato..
> >>
> >>
> >> >
> >> > - Original Message - From: larry flesner
> >> I doubt if a stopped
> >> > propeller is going to triple that number
> >> >
> >> > A stopped prop actually produces less drag, don't
> >> know the reason but have
> >> > tried it in self launch gliders (without
> >> feathering the prop) both idling
> >> > engine and stoped, there is noticeably less drag
> >> when the prop was
> >> > stopped.  Also it is better for the prop to stop
> >> vertically so any
> >> > vortices from the prop 

KR> gel coated parts

[jscott.pi...@juno.com]

Brian, 

You can scuff and paint over gelcoat, but I would recommend using a good
bonding epoxy primer as gelcoat does not seem to bond as readily as bare
fiberglass. 

**Warning.  The following is only my opinion!**
I am not a big fan of gelcoat finish on airplanes.  Gelcoat is relatively
heavy, tends to develop surface cracks over time, which will come right
through to become cracks in your paint, and adds no structural integrity
to the part.  It's my opinion that you will get a longer lasting finish
by wet sanding the gelcoat off the glass.  However, that's also a lot of
work.  I'm sure there are some good paint and body guys on here that have
more experience with gelcoat than me.

Jeff Scott


On Thu, 26 May 2005 22:46:44 -0400 "Brian Kraut" 
writes:
> I am used to using UV Smooth Prime on all glass parts, but I have
something
> a little different on my Midget Mustang.  The premolded parts come gel
> coated.  Does anyone know the recommended procedure for gel coated
parts?
> Just scuff sand, use whatever primer is recommended under the paint you
are
> putting on and paint?  Or should I sand off the gel coat, Smooth Prime,
then
> paint?  I don't know if the blue gel coat that is on there is UV 
> blocking or not.
> 
> Oh, and how is this KR related?  Simple, the Stang is half way painted
and
> near ready to go to the airport.  As soon as that happens I can get
back to
> the KRs!
> 
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com