Re: [MBZ] W124 Hitch recommendation

[Tan Qu]

The hitch Casey bought has been discontinued. The new
model is rated for 2500lbs and is for TD/TE only.
There aren't really whole lot choices for the regular
W124 sedans. Anyone may have the MB part # for the OE
hitch? Thanks.


Tan

--- Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I purchased a DaLan hitch for my '87 300TD from
> these folks a while back:
>
http://hitches4less.com/mercedes-benz-300-trailer-hitch.html
> It was moderately simple to install, but did require
> some slight adjustments
> and drilling to get it to fit correctly.
> Here are some pics of the hitch:
> http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/TD%20Hitch/
> 
> On 8/10/06, Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > I know this was discussed before but I can't seem
> to
> > find it in my e-mail archives. Anybody can give
> some
> > recommendations? This is for a '91 300D 2.5.
> Thanks.
> >
> 
> Casey
> Olympia, WA
> Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative
> state"
> '87 300TD intercooler #22 (217k)
> '84 300D (216k)
> Gashuffer:
> '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
> http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

Re: [MBZ] W124 Hitch recommendation

[Tan Qu]

Thanks Casey. I may have to ask you again when I get
ready to install on the adjustments you made. 


Tan

--- Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I purchased a DaLan hitch for my '87 300TD from
> these folks a while back:
>
http://hitches4less.com/mercedes-benz-300-trailer-hitch.html
> It was moderately simple to install, but did require
> some slight adjustments
> and drilling to get it to fit correctly.
> Here are some pics of the hitch:
> http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/TD%20Hitch/
> 
> On 8/10/06, Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > I know this was discussed before but I can't seem
> to
> > find it in my e-mail archives. Anybody can give
> some
> > recommendations? This is for a '91 300D 2.5.
> Thanks.
> >
> 
> Casey
> Olympia, WA
> Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative
> state"
> '87 300TD intercooler #22 (217k)
> '84 300D (216k)
> Gashuffer:
> '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
> http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

[MBZ] W124 Hitch recommendation

[Tan Qu]

I know this was discussed before but I can't seem to
find it in my e-mail archives. Anybody can give some
recommendations? This is for a '91 300D 2.5. Thanks.

Tan

Re: [MBZ] CarFax Request and VW EuroVan Opinion

[Tan Qu]

A friend has a '93 EuroVan MV Westfalia w/ 5-speed
manual trans that we have used for a few times.
Everyone in my family seemed to like it very much -
wife liked the interior space that we moved a washer
and a dryer with no problem while my 5-year old
daughter was facinated by the folding table, curtains,
and that the 3rd row seat pulls out and becomes a bed!

I have heard the auto trans in the later years are
problematic and a rebuilt costs four to five thousands
dollars. I am keep the fingers crossed.

Tan


--- Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> It's my understanding that the later versions with
> the VR6 were much much
> improved over the older I-5 Eurovans.  If they
> weren't so damn expensive,
> I'd probably sell our very reliable Vanagon and buy
> one.  A short
> wheelbase/lowroof Sprinter would be a nice
> alternative, though they're a bit
> more spartan.
> 
> On 6/14/06, Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Since it does not look like MB will ever bring
> their
> > Vaneo to the U.S. market(truthfully I won't be
> able to
> > afford a new one even if they do), I will be going
> to
> > look at this '02 EuroVan after work today. The VIN
> is
> > WV2KB47002H065551. If anyone got a CarFax account
> and
> > can pull the records I would really appreciate it.
> >
> > I am really appealed by the interior space and the
> > fact that it seats 7 grown-up's comfortably and
> its
> > uniqueness compared to other minivans. It is
> equipped
> > with a VR6 engine (with timing chain?), 4-speed
> auto
> > trans, traction control and ESP. I want to hear
> from
> > our dieselers' opinions on this besides my own
> > readings from the web.
> >
> >
> > Casey
> Olympia, WA
> Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative
> state"
> '87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k)
> '84 300D (213k)
> Gashuffer:
> '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
> http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

[MBZ] CarFax Request and VW EuroVan Opinion

[Tan Qu]

Since it does not look like MB will ever bring their
Vaneo to the U.S. market(truthfully I won't be able to
afford a new one even if they do), I will be going to
look at this '02 EuroVan after work today. The VIN is
WV2KB47002H065551. If anyone got a CarFax account and
can pull the records I would really appreciate it. 

I am really appealed by the interior space and the
fact that it seats 7 grown-up's comfortably and its
uniqueness compared to other minivans. It is equipped
with a VR6 engine (with timing chain?), 4-speed auto
trans, traction control and ESP. I want to hear from
our dieselers' opinions on this besides my own
readings from the web.


Tan 
'87 190Dt
'91 300D
'82 240D (off for the summer)

Re: [MBZ] 240D from VA to PA, need advice..

[Tan Qu]

Usually you can get a temporary tag from where you buy
the car by explaining to them that you want to
register the car in a different state but want
something to transport the car legally. You will need
the title signed over to your name and insurance proof
for the car. 


Tan

--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Kevin J. Slater wrote:
> > I'm in need of some advice. I have a car I want to
> buy that's located in
> > Virginia. It's been sitting for a while so it's
> not inspected and it
> > doesn't have plates. I live in PA and I'd like to
> drive it back. (Towing
> > isn't an option b/c of other complications for
> this trip.) I don't think I
> > can get plates for it in PA since I don't have the
> title. I don't think I
> > want to try to get plates in VA since that would
> entail paying a bunch of
> > fees that I'll just have to pay again in PA.
> > 
> > You guys that buy a lot of cars, what do you do?
> Once I get it back in PA
> > it's an easy process to get it properly inspected,
> get the title
> > transferred and get new plates for it.
> > 
> > ...Kevin
> > 87 300TD 284k miles
> > 
> > 
> 
> Have you contacted PennDOT?
> 
> I'm pretty sure there IS a way to do what you want,
> but I can't recall 
> what it is.
> 
> Check THIS site - esp the next to last paragraph!
>
http://www.dmv.state.va.us/webdoc/citizen/vehicles/temp_permit.asp
> 
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
> questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
> turbo 237kmi, '84 
> 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5

[Tan Qu]

Larry,

The gaskets you buy from Rusty (I believe it's Erling
brand) should have heat-sensitive sealant material on
it already. It may not matter but try to tighten the
bolts in small increment in a pattern. I am having a
hard time to seal the surface at the head on my '87
190Dt. Before it was leaking from the #2 bottom. I
redid the gasket when I replaced GP's last year. Now
it's leaking from the top of the #2. I am planning on
loosening all bolts and re-tightening them in a cross
pattern in small increments hoping solve the problem.
Maybe it's just a problem on early 60X's not later
ones as my '91 300D is very dry at the manifold/intake
area. 


Tan

--- ned kleinhenz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Larry:
> I think manifold gasket, crossover pipe gasket, fuel
> line clips and five new
> GP's are the most important Rusty sourced items to
> get.  I've never put
> anything between the manifold and head except a dry
> gasket, and I've never
> had any problems.
> 
> Again - you might check what type of tops the
> manifold bolts have.  Mine has
> those star shaped indents (I think they are called
> "torx" or something like
> that). And the cross over on my 606 requies allen
> keys to remove. You'll
> need "sockets" for those types of bolts to use your
> torque wrench.
> 
> Good luck,
> Ned Kleinhenz
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5

[Tan Qu]

Auxillary pump on the OM602's is something fails
occasionally (the one on my '87 190Dt failed at about
120k miles). I believe aux. pump is mainly for climate
control. See
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/buymb/022406/wizard.jsp?header=http://www.buymbparts.com/header.txt&footer=http://www.buymbparts.com/footer.txt&partner=buymb&clientid=buymbparts&baseurl=http://www.buymbparts.com/&cookieid=1RZ0J8OMG1TD0U43TK&year=1991&make=MB&model=300-DT-003&category=All&part=Auxiliary+Water+Pump
Whether or not it helps engine cooling that I don't
know. Because of its location it's usually hard to
inspect if it's leaking. Sometimes people report that
coolant leaking down the transmission bell housing and
mistake it as a fail head gasket at that area. 


Tan
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Tan wrote:< on the fire
> wall right behind #5 cylinder. Sometimes it is hard
> to
> see from the top with the intake manifold on.>>
> 
> Thanks Tan - Understand all your comments - but the
> one above - what am I 
> looking for?  Anything other than leaks?
> BTW, what does the aux water pump do?  When does it
> operate?
> 
> TIA -
> 
> Sincerely,
> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
> A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> Weber Carb Stuff
> http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my
> Paint Job Info
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Tan Qu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 10:26 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5
> 
> 
> > Just taking off the cross-over pipe does not give
> you
> > much room to work with on this car. It's much
> easier
> > with the intake manifold off, especially on
> OM602.962
> > where the glow plug insertion is in a inclined
> > position. So you will also need the gasket at
> where
> > the intake manifold connects to the head.
> >
> > There will be two or three allen bolts that will
> be a
> > little hard to get to. You will need some wobble
> head
> > extensions. Removing/re-installing these bolts to
> me
> > is the biggest part of the job. Otherwise a
> > straightfoward job.
> >
> > A few tips if I may:
> >
> > 1. Clean the work area really good before you
> start
> > 2. stuff the 5 holes on the head and the turbo
> > discharge pipe with clean rugs/paper towel once
> the
> > intake manifold is off, in case something
> accidentally
> > drop in there
> > 3. Get a glow plug reamer. Ream the glow plug
> holes
> > before you put new plugs in.
> > 4. Like others said, replace all injection line
> clips
> > where you are there.
> > 5. Check the auxillary water pump located on the
> fire
> > wall right behind #5 cylinder. Sometimes it is
> hard to
> > see from the top with the intake manifold on.
> >
> > Tan
> >
> >
> >
> > --- OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >> You'll need the gasket where the cross-over pipe
> >> connects to the
> >> manifold. when it's off is a good time to replace
> >> all the plastic and
> >> rubber clips that keep the injector lines from
> >> vibrating and cracking.
> >>
> >> On 5/31/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> > Ned wrote:< the
> >> intake manifold>>>
> >> >
> >> > Thanks Ned,
> >> > I guess that's the part I was dreading - and
> >> getting the auxilliary stuff
> >> > that mounts to the intake manifold looks like a
> >> bear - all those metal and
> >> > rubber lines along with accel linkage.
> >> >
> >> > What gaskets should I have on hand to replace
> if
> >> needed?  I assume the
> >> > intake manifold gaskets needs to be re-newed at
> >> the time?Anything else I
> >> > should replace?
> >> >
> >> > TIA -
> >> >
> >> > Sincerely,
> >> > Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
> >> > A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> >> > For Test Results
> http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> >> > Weber Carb Stuff
> >> http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> >> > http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm
> For
> >> my Paint Job Info
> >> > - Origi

Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5

[Tan Qu]

Just taking off the cross-over pipe does not give you
much room to work with on this car. It's much easier
with the intake manifold off, especially on OM602.962
where the glow plug insertion is in a inclined
position. So you will also need the gasket at where
the intake manifold connects to the head. 

There will be two or three allen bolts that will be a
little hard to get to. You will need some wobble head
extensions. Removing/re-installing these bolts to me
is the biggest part of the job. Otherwise a
straightfoward job.

A few tips if I may:

1. Clean the work area really good before you start
2. stuff the 5 holes on the head and the turbo
discharge pipe with clean rugs/paper towel once the
intake manifold is off, in case something accidentally
drop in there
3. Get a glow plug reamer. Ream the glow plug holes
before you put new plugs in. 
4. Like others said, replace all injection line clips
where you are there. 
5. Check the auxillary water pump located on the fire
wall right behind #5 cylinder. Sometimes it is hard to
see from the top with the intake manifold on.

Tan



--- OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> You'll need the gasket where the cross-over pipe
> connects to the
> manifold. when it's off is a good time to replace
> all the plastic and
> rubber clips that keep the injector lines from
> vibrating and cracking.
> 
> On 5/31/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Ned wrote:< intake manifold>>>
> >
> > Thanks Ned,
> > I guess that's the part I was dreading - and
> getting the auxilliary stuff
> > that mounts to the intake manifold looks like a
> bear - all those metal and
> > rubber lines along with accel linkage.
> >
> > What gaskets should I have on hand to replace if
> needed?  I assume the
> > intake manifold gaskets needs to be re-newed at
> the time?Anything else I
> > should replace?
> >
> > TIA -
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
> > A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> > For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> > Weber Carb Stuff
> http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> > http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For
> my Paint Job Info
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "ned kleinhenz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: "Mercedes Diesel List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 9:08 PM
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5
> >
> >
> > > << Thanks to all -- I'll replace the GPs when I
> feel like punishing
> > > myself.
> > > ;-\>>
> > >
> > > Larry:
> > > It's really not that bad if you remove the
> intake manifold.
> > >
> > > Ned Kleinhenz
> > > '95 E300D x2
> > > '85 300D
> > > '80 300TD
> > > ___
> > > http://www.striplin.net
> > > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > >
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> 
> 
> -- 
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> "The Americans will always do the right thing...
> after they've
> exhausted all the alternatives."
> Sir Winston Churchill
> '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply
> Grand Voyager
> 
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] Where is F15?

[Tan Qu]

Ned,

It's 30AMP strip fuse (similar to the ones used in GP
relay of OM61X models), in a fuse holder, right next
to the regular fuse box.

Tan


--- ned kleinhenz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> The blower went out in my '95 E300D - last of the
> 124's.
> 
> The fuse box cover says "blower fuse located outside
> this box"
> 
> The Service manual on CD's says the blower fuse is
> at location F15.
> But there is no diagram or other indication of where
> "F15" is.
> 
> Can anybody tell me?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Ned Kleinhenz
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] SD run-hot update

[Tan Qu]

The overheating episode I had on my 190Dt was sort of
bizarre but WAS caused by a Laso pump with plastic
impleller. The Laso pump was installed maybe 3 years
ago when the old one started leaking. Right after
replacing the water pump, the car was running a few
degrees higher (87 degree instead of 82 degree it used
to be) and progressively running hotter until one day
in January this year it creeped up to 110 degrees.
Tried all tricks - new thermostat, belt, draining and
refilling and but no avail. I almost though it had a
blown head gasket or crack head. Once the new pump
(Geba w/ cast irom impeller) was installed, the car
runs steady at 82 degrees and rises to 90 degrees
under acceleration from stop'N'go. 


Tan

--- Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Any chance the water pump belt is slipping, or any
> chance it is a 
> aftermarket water pump with a stamped impeller,
> rather than the OE cast 
> iron impeller on the water pump?
> 
> Is the electric Aux fan cycling as designed?
> 
> Sounds like you are making some progress.
> 
> 
> At 07:46 PM 5/23/2006, you wrote:
> >Changed the t-stat today. Initially car idled at
> ~85, left idling for 30
> >mins.
> >
> >Immediately that I went out on the road the temp
> gauge shot up to 115 or so,
> >then equally as fast returned to normal (a block or
> two later).
> >
> >Then crept back up to around 100, in suburban
> driving conditions, and did
> >not budge thereafter.
> >
> >I tried unsrewing the temp sensor outlet (at the
> top of the t-stat housing)
> >and purging in case there was air keeping the
> t-stat closed... there may
> >have been a little air, but not much.
> >
> >HOWEVER, now I notice that the top rad hose is HOT
> HOT HOT, the lower hose
> >is so cool I can leave my hand wrapped around it. I
> had not checked this
> >before.
> >
> >I guess I've been lucky all these years, never had
> to do more than a t-stat
> >to troubleshoot a run-hot problem, so I am pretty
> much out there on this.
> >
> >Thx
> >
> >--
> >"Mac"
> >Steve MacSween
> >Aylmer, Quebec (Canada)
> >Mercedes: '82 300sd / '82 240d (x2) / '60 220s
> >Volvo: '87 245 (waiting for OM616 transplant)
> >SAAB: '83 900T (waiting for a miracle)
> >
> >
> >___
> >http://www.striplin.net
> >For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
>http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] W201 Speaker Recommendations

[Tan Qu]

Crutchfield website shows 4", 5-1/4" and 6-1/2"
speakers all fit the rear deck. I am little confused
now. Which one would be the direct fit without
customized mounting?

It doesn not show any speakers for the dash. Maybe the
front speakers are the odd-sized?


Tan 

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Go to Crutchfield's website and use the search
> option by your vehicle. It will show you exactly
> what size speakers you can install and all the
> choices of speaker brands that are available 
>  
> 69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
> 72 350SL   108,000 Miles
> 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
> 1999 Mazda Miata   
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tue, 23 May 2006 14:04:44 -0700 (PDT)
> Subject: [MBZ] W201 Speaker Recommendations
> 
> 
> I am thinking about upgrading the speakers in my '87
> 190Dt. I remember there were discussions about the
> odd
> sizes of the speakers required for MB's. Anybody can
> give me any recommendations? Thanks.
> 
> 
> Tan
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
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>
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> 
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> 

[MBZ] W201 Speaker Recommendations

[Tan Qu]

I am thinking about upgrading the speakers in my '87
190Dt. I remember there were discussions about the odd
sizes of the speakers required for MB's. Anybody can
give me any recommendations? Thanks.


Tan

Re: [MBZ] more on the 2.5 turbo

[Tan Qu]

Speaking of the delivery valve resealng, my '91 300D
2.5 is leaking fuel around #3 and #4 delivery valves.
How much involved is to reseal these things? And what
parts and tools I would need? Thanks.


Tan

--- Bob DuPuy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I'm pretty sure the MB lift pump is a piston type
> with no diaphram. I
> vote you do the delivery valve reseal thing, change
> the oil, take two
> asprin and call Marshall in the morning.
> 
> Bob DuPuy
> Parrish, FL
> 
> On 5/21/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > If the fuel supply pump was bad wouldn it cause
> starting problems but
> > not missing problems?  This one is missing on #1,
> i would think if the
> > pump was bad, that wouldnt be the case.  If the IP
> has a problem however
> > internally and is leaking, well I could see that
> maybe.
> >
> > Tom Hargrave wrote:
> >
> > > Kaleb,
> > >
> > > The only source for serious dilution is the IP.
> You may have an issue with
> > > the pump itself or more likely, the fuel pump
> that's bolted to the side of
> > > the IP has a cracked diaphragm.
> > >
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Tom Hargrave
> > > 256-656-1924
> > > www.kegkits.com
> > >
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
> > > Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2006 9:33 AM
> > > To: Banned List; Mercedes mailing list
> > > Subject: [MBZ] more on the 2.5 turbo
> > >
> > > I looked more close at the oil yesterday and it
> really seems MUCH thinner
> > > than it should be and it seems to have a diesel
> smell, but hard to tell.  I
> > > started it up again stone cold and it fires
> right up, and runs MUCH smoother
> > > than when warmed up.  Idles ok with just a
> little bit of a miss.  The oil
> > > pressure only goes up to about 2.5 though when
> stone cold, probably because
> > > the oil appears to be diluted with diesel.  I
> will probably change it and
> > > see what  happens.
> > > --
> > > Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> > >   91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87
> 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
> > >   85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81
> 300TD, 81 240D,
> > >   76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72
> 250C, 69 250
> > > http://www.striplin.net
> > >
> > > ___
> > > http://www.striplin.net
> > > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used
> > > parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > >
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > >
> > >
> > > ___
> > > http://www.striplin.net
> > > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > >
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> >  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87
> 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
> >  85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81
> 300TD, 81 240D,
> >  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72
> 250C, 69 250
> > http://www.striplin.net
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> 
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] E320CDI Commercial

[Tan Qu]

No idea. Looked at some of the interior pictures of
E320CDI's on Ebay but did not see that button.

Tan

--- Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> what is the button he presses towards the end?
> change the differential gearing...some sort of super
> over-drive?
>   
>   Chris
> 
> Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  A friend sent me
> this film commercial on the E320CDI.
> It may be already old but is kind of cool.
>
http://www.daimlerchryslertvmedia.com/www/projektseite.php?nav=40&show=119/content.html
> 
> 
> Wait for the movie to load and turn on your sound.
> 
> What a way to impress your teenager son..
> 
> 
> Tan 
> 
> '82 240D
> '87 190DT
> '91 300D
> 
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 
> 
> 
> Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City,
> Missouri
> -1987 300TD, 245K km, "Rotkäppchen"
> -1985 300SD, 343K km, "Wulf"
> -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, "One Banger"
> 
> "Mercedes Dieselauto - Leistung wird mit dem
> Kilometerzähler gemessen."
>  __
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
> protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com 
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

[MBZ] E320CDI Commercial

[Tan Qu]

A friend sent me this film commercial on the E320CDI.
It may be already old but is kind of cool.
http://www.daimlerchryslertvmedia.com/www/projektseite.php?nav=40&show=119/content.html


Wait for the movie to load and turn on your sound.

What a way to impress your teenager son..


Tan 

'82 240D
'87 190DT
'91 300D

Re: [MBZ] Greetings

[Tan Qu]

Meade,

It's good to see you back, especially with 2 OM60X's.


Tan

--- "Dillon, Meade LCDR" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Dieselvolk and MB addicts,
> 
> I'm back after a long absence, but probably only for
> a short while.  The
> incredible volume of the 'new' striplin list was too
> much back then, but
> I'm temporarily in a situation where I can handle
> it.
> 
> I've briefly reviewed the archives, and it's
> gratifying to see that the
> comaraderie is strong as ever, and the level of
> knowledge is still
> unsurpassed.
> 
> Very respectfully,
> /s/
> Meade Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '87 300TD 287k miles
> '85 190D 2.2 5 spd 106k miles
> '85 300TD Euro 5spd 327k miles *sold*
> 
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux

[Tan Qu]

I second on the water pump as Joe. Usually when the
impeller shaft seal fails, coolant passes that and
drains out the weep hole (at the bottom of the water
pump). 

Now on the replacement water pump, you may want to
pick one with cast iron impeller, not the plastic
impeller. The Laso pump I put on my '87 190Dt several
years ago had the plastic impeller. Early this year
the car started to overheat. When I took the water
pump off, there were imprint marks on the
thermostat/water pump housing from the impeller wanes!
I am not 100% sure on this but it appeared (logically
to think) the impeller was stuck on the surface of the
housing when the coolant fully warmed up. I replaced
it with a all metal Geba pump it seemed to have fixed
the problem - the coolant temp stayed around 82
degrees instead shoting up to 100 degrees as before
while car is idling. The old Laso pump spins fine just
as a new pump when it was out. If anyone wants to
further investigate this, the old Laso pump is for
free plus the shipping cost.

R/R of water pump is pretty straightforward. Remove
fan, shroud, belt tensioning system. You may want to
remove the lower tensioner lever too. The 6 or 7 10mm
bolts are generally easy to get to except the one
hiding at lower right corner. A gear wrench would save
the day there. 

You may want to replace the thermostat as well if you
are using the MB coolant (over $23/gallon last time I
bought some). 

Tan

--- Joe Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Water pump sounds most likely, Kevin.  Don't recall
> the pump on mine
> was leaking when I replaced it must be close to a
> year ago, but when I
> got it out I did find that a couple of the impeller
> vanes were
> somewhat chewed.  That and a new rad addressed a
> minor overheating
> problem that only surfaced on sustained high speed
> pulls up long
> grades of 6% or so.
> 
> joe
> 
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update

[Tan Qu]

Ok, I see now. I thought the soda pop was something to
go into the system to help the burp. -:)

Tan

--- Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> > You said "Go get a soda pop and let it burp, after
> it
> > burps there should be little pressure on upper
> hose."
> > - what do you mean exactly? I am not quite sure
> what a
> > soda pop is, actually.
> 
> Go have a drink of your favorite beverage.  Coffee,
> beer, soft drink, etc.  Let it sit enough to cool
> off
> some, in other words.
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
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>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update

[Tan Qu]

How do you lock it in the open position? Boil it until
it opens and put an object in between the plate and
openning? I don't want to do anything unwise to leave
something loose and get caught up somewhere.

Tan

--- OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> So, if you want to verify the radiator - take the
> old thermostat, or
> the current one (replacing it later), and lock it in
> the open position
> (as if flushing the system), install it and run your
> test ---
> 
> On 12/29/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > Tan Qu wrote:
> > > Well, we have a lot good insight here. So here
> is what
> > > my plan is:
> > >
> > > 1. Remove the 2-piece fan shroud
> > > 2. Remove thermostat and bolt the thermostat
> housing
> > > back
> > > 3. Remove upper hose and overflow tank cap and
> fill
> > > the engine and radiator.
> > > 4. Close overflow tank cap
> > > 5. Start the engine
> > > 6. If coolant comes out the engine madly, pump
> is ok.
> > > Put back the upper hose
> > > 7. Let engine continue running with various
> speed.
> > > keep an eye on the temp gauge.
> > > 8. Turn off the engine. Hand check the radiator
> > > surface to see if there is any cold spot.
> > > 9. If all check out OK, I am out of ideas again.
> >
> > A thermostat is necessary for the system to work
> correctly. The cooling
> > capacity of the system is about half of normal if
> the thermostat is
> > removed. That's because the thermostat essentially
> prevents active
> > cooling until the temperature reaches about 85
> degrees. Then the
> > radiator intake slowly opens and the bypass port
> starts to close. At
> > about 100 degrees, the bypass port is closed and
> all the coolant is
> > directed thru the radiator. In the absence of a
> thermostat, coolant is
> > free to take whatever path (bypass or radiator)
> that offers the least
> > resistance and cooling capacity is severely
> limited.
> >
> > Marshall
> > --
> >  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to
> unsigned questions)
> >   "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D
> 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
> > turbo 237kmi
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> 
> 
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> '90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
> The FSM created the Diesel Benz
> http://www.venganza.org/
> 
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update

[Tan Qu]

For some reason on the 190Dt, the upper hose clamp on
the radiator end sits under the frame and is hard to
get to. Not so much a problem on other 60x engines I
have seen. 


Tan

--- Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Wait, when you pour it into the upper radiator hose
> are you pouring it into the radiator?
>   You know you're supposed to disconnect the hose at
> the radiator and pour the coolant directly into the
> head right?
>   Because if you're pouring coolant directly into
> the engine and its running out the thermostat
> housing its not going into the radiator AT ALL.
>
>   I'll admit I've never worked on a 60x but this
> just seems logical...
>
>   -Curt
>
>   Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 07:22:51 -0800 (PST)
> From: Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Message-ID:
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> 
> I am pretty positive on the first two but not last
> one. The thermostat on OM602 only goes in one
> position. There is a tab in the thermostat housing
> that sits in a small recess on the thermostat. Put
> it
> in other ways the housing would not close properly.
> I
> missed it when I put the second thermostat in and
> found that out when I started to fill the rediator
> from the upper hose. The coolant came out right
> there.
> So that should tell me the radiator flows ok, right?
> On the 190Dt it is hard to get the hose clamp for
> the
> upper hose end on radiator so I detached from the
> engine end and filled radiator from there. It is
> possible there may be an air bubble trapped in the
> head. How do you normally purge the air in the head
> -
> by filling the engine from the upper hose?
> 
> 
> Tan
> 
> 
>   
> -
> Yahoo! Photos
>  Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add
> photos, events, holidays, whatever.
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update

[Tan Qu]

Trampas,

You said "Go get a soda pop and let it burp, after it
burps there should be little pressure on upper hose."
- what do you mean exactly? I am not quite sure what a
soda pop is, actually. 

Tan

--- Trampas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Tan,
> 
> Before you do those steps, 
> 
> #1. Start engine with engine being cold, check for
> pressure on coolant
> system to verify head gasket is OK. 
> 
> A bad head gasket will pump air into the coolant.
> This air will often get
> caught between water and thermostat and basically
> insulate thermostat such
> that it never gets warm enough to open. This is the
> same thing that happens
> when you fill system and have to "burp" it. 
> 
> BTW the best way I have found to burp coolant system
> is to start engine and
> let it idle while watching temp gauge. When gauge
> get just slightly hotter
> than "normal" turn engine off. Go get a soda pop and
> let it burp, after it
> burps there should be little pressure on upper hose.
> Top off system and it
> is usually OK. Sometimes this has to be done twice,
> but not often. 
> 
> Trampas
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Tan Qu
> Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 5:35 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update
> 
> Well, we have a lot good insight here. So here is
> what
> my plan is:
> 
> 1. Remove the 2-piece fan shroud
> 2. Remove thermostat and bolt the thermostat housing
> back
> 3. Remove upper hose and overflow tank cap and fill
> the engine and radiator.
> 4. Close overflow tank cap
> 5. Start the engine
> 6. If coolant comes out the engine madly, pump is
> ok.
> Put back the upper hose
> 7. Let engine continue running with various speed.
> keep an eye on the temp gauge.
> 8. Turn off the engine. Hand check the radiator
> surface to see if there is any cold spot. 
> 9. If all check out OK, I am out of ideas again.
> 
> 
> 
> Tan
> 
> --- Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > > I don't have an infared temp meter so I have to
> > come
> > > up with something else to get the block temp.
> > 
> > Harbor Freight has them on sale periodically for
> > $50.
> > Mighty handy.
> > 
> > > Now, if the pump is ok, water should come out
> the
> > > upper radiator hose even with thermostat in,
> > right?
> > 
> > Que?  Flow direction is from top to bottom, and
> the
> > thermostat is in series with the top hose to the
> > radiator.  Trampas' advice is good.
> > 
> > If you insist in replacing the pump and it doesn't
> > help, be prepared for some ribbing!  It _could_ be
> > bad, but it's highly unlikely.  We will apologize
> > profusely if it _is_ bad, and say "Huh.  One for
> > the books."
> > 
> > > How likely is that the temp sensor is bad? Where
> > is
> > 
> > It happens quite a lot, actually.  I'm surprised
> we
> > all
> > forgot to recommend an independent test of the
> gauge
> > temperature.
> > 
> > > the sensor located that is connected to the
> gauge?
> > I
> > > know there is one right below the thermostat
> > housing
> > > and one near the upper radiator hose. I actually
> > > disconnected both both the gauge still
> registered
> > > 120C. Is there a third temp sensor that I don't
> > know
> > > of?
> > 
> > Look on the side of the head near the middle. 
> Might
> > be kind of buried.
> > 
> > -- Jim
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> > http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
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> > 
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update

[Tan Qu]

Yes. It still did.

Tan

--- Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Jim Cathey wrote:
> > 
> > It happens quite a lot, actually.  I'm surprised
> we all
> > forgot to recommend an independent test of the
> gauge
> > temperature.
> 
> It's possible that the aux fan gave an independent
> assessment
> of high temperature, has it come on since the t-stat
> change?
> 
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update

[Tan Qu]

Well, we have a lot good insight here. So here is what
my plan is:

1. Remove the 2-piece fan shroud
2. Remove thermostat and bolt the thermostat housing
back
3. Remove upper hose and overflow tank cap and fill
the engine and radiator.
4. Close overflow tank cap
5. Start the engine
6. If coolant comes out the engine madly, pump is ok.
Put back the upper hose
7. Let engine continue running with various speed.
keep an eye on the temp gauge.
8. Turn off the engine. Hand check the radiator
surface to see if there is any cold spot. 
9. If all check out OK, I am out of ideas again.



Tan

--- Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> > I don't have an infared temp meter so I have to
> come
> > up with something else to get the block temp.
> 
> Harbor Freight has them on sale periodically for
> $50.
> Mighty handy.
> 
> > Now, if the pump is ok, water should come out the
> > upper radiator hose even with thermostat in,
> right?
> 
> Que?  Flow direction is from top to bottom, and the
> thermostat is in series with the top hose to the
> radiator.  Trampas' advice is good.
> 
> If you insist in replacing the pump and it doesn't
> help, be prepared for some ribbing!  It _could_ be
> bad, but it's highly unlikely.  We will apologize
> profusely if it _is_ bad, and say "Huh.  One for
> the books."
> 
> > How likely is that the temp sensor is bad? Where
> is
> 
> It happens quite a lot, actually.  I'm surprised we
> all
> forgot to recommend an independent test of the gauge
> temperature.
> 
> > the sensor located that is connected to the gauge?
> I
> > know there is one right below the thermostat
> housing
> > and one near the upper radiator hose. I actually
> > disconnected both both the gauge still registered
> > 120C. Is there a third temp sensor that I don't
> know
> > of?
> 
> Look on the side of the head near the middle.  Might
> be kind of buried.
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update

[Tan Qu]

Wife has been the one who drove the car. I
periodically drove the car and took care of the things
I notice. But you know how women are - as long as the
car seems to run they think everything is just fine.
Anyhow I was aware the operating temp sat at 84c (with
a 80c Wahler thermostat) and in the summer it goes up
to 90 - 93c after I replaced the water pump and
thermostat about 2 years ago. I noticed the 120C just
this Tueday when she picked me up for lunch. She said
that just happened that day. I'll just leave it there.

Anyhow, what I think we need to focus on is that the
lower radiator hose stayed cold after the test run
during which the temp shot up to 120C again. So the
coolant wasn't flowing through the radiator. If it had
flowed at all I shouldn't have a cold lower hose,
right? 

Thermostat - this was ruled out by the boil test.
Plugged up radiator - very unlikely although possible.
I bought this car while it had 103,000 miles. Replaced
water pump around 180k miles. Between 103,000 and
180,000 miles, the temp gauge was at 80C or 82c solid
even with A/C on in hot summer. 
Trapped air bubble - wouldn't they start to show up as
soon as they were there? 

Tan

--- "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Tan,
> 
> Refresh my memory. Did the problem happen overnight,
> meaning the car
> has been running at 100C for a while and suddenly
> popped to 120C? Or
> has it gradually been climbing from 100C to 120C
> over the past
> months/years? If it was an overnight thing, I'd lean
> towards the water
> pump as suspect - or at least worth a closer look.
> You can always
> re-install it if the impeller is properly attached
> and intact.
> 
> If the problem has been slowly getting worse, with
> temps higher every
> few months, I would *strongly* suspect the radiator
> is bad (corroded
> internally). It may flow just fine, but be unable to
> transfer heat
> properly. This assumes the fins are all clean in the
> condenser AND
> radiator.
> 
> The bubble theory mostly applies to when the cooling
> system is first
> filled. If you've been driving the car for months, a
> bubble should NOT
> just suddenly appear out of nowhere.
> 
> :-)
> 
> -Dave M.
> 
> > --
> > Date: Thu, 29 Dec 2005 07:22:51 -0800 (PST)
> > From: Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!
> -update
> >
> > I am pretty positive on the first two but not last
> > one. The thermostat on OM602 only goes in one
> > position. There is a tab in the thermostat housing
> > that sits in a small recess on the thermostat. Put
> it
> > in other ways the housing would not close
> properly. I
> > missed it when I put the second thermostat in and
> > found that out when I started to fill the rediator
> > from the upper hose. The coolant came out right
> there.
> > So that should tell me the radiator flows ok,
> right?
> > On the 190Dt it is hard to get the hose clamp for
> the
> > upper hose end on radiator so I detached from the
> > engine end and filled radiator from there. It is
> > possible there may be an air bubble trapped in the
> > head. How do you normally purge the air in the
> head -
> > by filling the engine from the upper hose?
> >
> >
> > Tan
> >
> > --- Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > > > Did the boil test last night, the thermostat I
> > > just
> > > > took off the car opened nicely near the
> boiling
> > > point.
> > > > Fully opened when the water was boiling. Also
> > > checked
> > > > the upper hose again, no pressurized syndrome.
> So
> > > I
> > > > guess new pump is the next course of action. I
> > > still
> > > > have a Laso pump on hand. Would you all think
> > > dealer
> > > > parts is superior than the OEM parts on this
> one?
> > >
> > > I think the pump you have ready to put in is the
> > > superior one, but only because I'm still not
> > > convinced
> > > that it will make any difference and using it
> will
> > > allow
> > > you to conduct the test immediately.  You're
> _sure_
> > > the
> > > radiator flows well, the thermostat is in the
> right
> > > way around, and that there's no huge air bubble
> > > trapped
> > > in the head?
> > >
> > > -- Jim
> 
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update

[Tan Qu]

Jim,

If my radiator/engine internal indeed are clogged up
I'd really go nuts - I have beening flushing/refilling
with MB coolant just about once a year! 

Tan

--- Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> > To me this seems to be a gradual thing. About two
> years
> 
> Radiator degradation is the only thing I can think
> of
> besides a thermostat that can cause a gradual
> increase
> in operating temperature of a car.  If the coolant
> was
> not flushed regularly corrosion may have built up
> slowly
> in the radiator (and head), causing a reduction in
> flow
> (and an even greater reduction in heat transfer). 
> It is
> possible that it is too late for your radiator, but
> my SDL
> seems to have benefited from an acid flush.  It
> hasn't
> overheated the last two summers since I did it. 
> There
> were visible corrosion deposits in the cooling
> system
> of the car as well, now gone.
> 
>   http://cathey.dogear.com/SDLcool.html
> 
> I would expect an air bubble to work itself out with
> time,
> but to me there is a great risk of inducing head
> and/or
> gasket troubles during the temporary localized
> overheating
> in the head due to the air bubble.  That's why I try
> hard
> (now) to get the thing out of there when filling.  I
> backfill
> from the radiator hose, disconnected from the
> radiator end,
> in order to get the head full of water first. 
> Having the
> nose of the car up helps a lot too.
> 
> Water pumps hardly ever fail except to leak and
> squeak.
> It is truly rare.  You can pull it out and look at
> it,
> a functional failure would have to be obvious.
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> 
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>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update

[Tan Qu]

It has been a while since I replaced it. So my memory
vaguely remember it was a solid cast iron unit. Looked
exactly like the one shown at Rusty's site.

Tan

--- Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> If the new pump raised the temp, what did the
> impeller look like?
> Was it a cast turbine, or fins bent from sheet
> metal?
> There should be a pic of a proper one on Rusty's
> site.
> 
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> 
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> 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update

[Tan Qu]

I will try that. But again, wouldn't you think this
problem would have shown up right away when last time
I drained and refilled the system (+/- a year ago)? To
me this seems to be a gradual thing. About two years
ago when I replaced the old water pump (leaking), the
coolant temp at the normal operating condition started
to be around 84C instead of 80c before I replaced
pump, thermostat, and coolant. This past summer the
coolant temp stayed at the 90c at acceleration or A/C
on. Now it is at 120C.  So something I did when I
replaced the pump must have caused this to happen -
either the pump or the air bubble. So does this give
us any clue?


Tan  

--- Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Jim Cathey wrote:
> >   You're _sure_ the radiator flows well, the
> thermostat is
> > in the right way around, and that there's no huge
> air bubble trapped
> > in the head?
> 
> I 2nd the air bubble question.
> Does Tan have ramps? Ramp up the front of the car
> and see if it burps.
> 
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> 
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>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update

[Tan Qu]

I am pretty positive on the first two but not last
one. The thermostat on OM602 only goes in one
position. There is a tab in the thermostat housing
that sits in a small recess on the thermostat. Put it
in other ways the housing would not close properly. I
missed it when I put the second thermostat in and
found that out when I started to fill the rediator
from the upper hose. The coolant came out right there.
So that should tell me the radiator flows ok, right?
On the 190Dt it is hard to get the hose clamp for the
upper hose end on radiator so I detached from the
engine end and filled radiator from there. It is
possible there may be an air bubble trapped in the
head. How do you normally purge the air in the head -
by filling the engine from the upper hose?


Tan

--- Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> > Did the boil test last night, the thermostat I
> just
> > took off the car opened nicely near the boiling
> point.
> > Fully opened when the water was boiling. Also
> checked
> > the upper hose again, no pressurized syndrome. So
> I
> > guess new pump is the next course of action. I
> still
> > have a Laso pump on hand. Would you all think
> dealer
> > parts is superior than the OEM parts on this one?
> 
> I think the pump you have ready to put in is the
> superior one, but only because I'm still not
> convinced
> that it will make any difference and using it will
> allow
> you to conduct the test immediately.  You're _sure_
> the
> radiator flows well, the thermostat is in the right
> way around, and that there's no huge air bubble
> trapped
> in the head?
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat! -update

[Tan Qu]

Did the boil test last night, the thermostat I just
took off the car opened nicely near the boiling point.
Fully opened when the water was boiling. Also checked
the upper hose again, no pressurized syndrome. So I
guess new pump is the next course of action. I still
have a Laso pump on hand. Would you all think dealer
parts is superior than the OEM parts on this one?

Tan

--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Dave M. wrote:
> > Hi Tan,
> > 
> 
> > You can test the t-stat in a pot of hot water, it
> should visibly open
> > fully by ~94°C, before the water is boiling. No
> pressure is needed to
> > make the t-stat open. I'd pull the water pump and
> replace it. I
> > suspect the impeller could be separated from the
> shaft - not likely,
> > but I'm fresh out of other ideas. I'd get a
> rebuilt pump from the
> > dealer (or OE from Rusty), that was the most
> economical option the
> > last time I checked. Please keep us updated, I'm
> curious what the root
> > cause is.
> 
> 
> WRONG. The 603.96 & 602.96 thermostats start opening
> at 80 and are fully 
> open at 100 deg. C.
> 
> Be SURE there's not a big air bubble (that will
> cause the exactly what 
> you seem to be describing).
> 
> I have never had a bad 60x water pump. I've had 3
> bad radiators.
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
> questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
> 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
> turbo 237kmi
> 
> ___
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> 
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>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[Tan Qu]

Since I have the old thermostat off, I am going to
boil test it if it opens at all. 120C is well over the
100C fully open point so if it opens then the problem
must be elsewhere. 

We can pretty much rule out the radiator because I
just remembered that last night when I was swapping
the thermostats I didn't put it in right the first
time. So while I was filling from the upper radiator
hose it flowed out from the inproperly installed
thermostat - so the flow in the radiator was free just
by gravity. 

I will double check to make sure I don't have the
"cold pressurized upper hose" symdrome tonight. 


Tan

 

--- "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Tan,
> 
> I think the new pumps are OK, but I forget. I recall
> that last time I
> checed, the rebuilt pumps from the dealer (or Rusty)
> were a lot less
> than new. Maybe that's no longer true? I generally
> prefer dealer parts
> due to the warranty. I believe the dealer parts you
> buy through Rusty
> also carry the dealer warranty (ask him for details
> - I'm not sure on
> that.) Brian Toscano had done some research on OM60x
> water pumps, I
> think - maybe he can add his $0.02?
> 
> Oh, btw - I would still test the t-stat (or install
> a new dealer
> t-stat), and it wouldn't hurt to put a garden  hose
> in the top of the
> radiator and make sure there's good flow. If the
> flow is normal and
> outlet is still cold, to me that once again points
> to the water pump.
> If flow is restricted, the radiator may be the
> problem (plugged).
> 
> :-)
> 
> +dm
> 
> > --
> > Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 09:22:47 -0800 (PST)
> > From: Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!
> >
> >
> > Dave and all,
> >
> > I am more leaning toward to a bad water pump. When
> I
> > turned the heater on which in turn turned the
> > (electric) auxillary water pump the temp droped
> maybe
> > 2 degrees. My feel was that the coolant was
> plainly
> > not flowing throught the system, even the closed
> > circuit.
> >
> > What's the story on the water pump? I guess the
> new
> > Laso or Geba pumps at Rusty's website are no good?
> >
> > Tan
> 
> ___
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>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[Tan Qu]

Dave and all,

I am more leaning toward to a bad water pump. When I
turned the heater on which in turn turned the
(electric) auxillary water pump the temp droped maybe
2 degrees. My feel was that the coolant was plainly
not flowing throught the system, even the closed
circuit. 

What's the story on the water pump? I guess the new
Laso or Geba pumps at Rusty's website are no good? 

Tan

--- "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hi Tan,
> 
> Well, the good news is, your auxiliary fan switch
> still works - this
> part is often dead after 10+ years (at least it has
> been on every W124
> owned by my family.) That also means your dash gauge
> is probably
> accurate. So you are either not getting coolant
> flow, or the radiator
> is not doing it's job properly. Since the radiator
> outlet is cold, my
> guess is you have a lack of coolant flow? I'd think
> if the radiator
> was bad, it wouldn't happen suddenly, and the outlet
> would be hot.
> 
> You can test the t-stat in a pot of hot water, it
> should visibly open
> fully by ~94°C, before the water is boiling. No
> pressure is needed to
> make the t-stat open. I'd pull the water pump and
> replace it. I
> suspect the impeller could be separated from the
> shaft - not likely,
> but I'm fresh out of other ideas. I'd get a rebuilt
> pump from the
> dealer (or OE from Rusty), that was the most
> economical option the
> last time I checked. Please keep us updated, I'm
> curious what the root
> cause is.
> 
> :-)
> 
> -Dave M.
> 
> > --
> > Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 08:45:33 -0800 (PST)
> > From: Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!
> >
> >
> > Yesterday I noticed our 190Dt started to overheat.
> > Outside temp was around 60F's but the coolant temp
> > shot up to 120C degrees. The auxillary fans came
> on
> > but the temp still won't come down. Last night I
> > inspected the belt drive system, replaced the fan
> > clutch with a good used one and also the belt.
> Rest of
> > the belt drive parts are fairly new. Also replaced
> the
> > thermostat with a god used one. But the car still
> > overheats. Temp stayed around 118c. The coolant
> > overflow tank is clean with no oil trace. The
> upper
> > radiator hose was not pressurized when the car
> cooled
> > down. One thing I noticed was throughout whole
> time I
> > was testing the car the lower radiator hose was
> cold.
> > It seems to me the coolant did not get circulated
> > through the radiator at all. I want to suspect the
> > thermostat was the culprit but the one I just put
> in
> > was a known good one, actually came off the same
> car
> > when I did preventative maintenance.
> >
> > Any possibility that the water pump could be bad
> (put
> > in about 80k miles ago)? What usually happens when
> the
> > water pump goes out? Also how does the thermostat
> work
> > exactly? I understand the the bimetal parts expand
> at
> > the different rate when the coolant temp rises but
> > what exactly open the valves? Does the expansion
> rate
> > difference of the bi-metal opens the valve or the
> > pressure in the coolant system (applied by the
> water
> > pump) push open the valve?
> >
> > Any troubleshooting ideas are greatly appreciated.
> >
> >
> > Tan
> 
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> 

[MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[Tan Qu]

Yesterday I noticed our 190Dt started to overheat.
Outside temp was around 60F's but the coolant temp
shot up to 120C degrees. The auxillary fans came on
but the temp still won't come down. Last night I
inspected the belt drive system, replaced the fan
clutch with a good used one and also the belt. Rest of
the belt drive parts are fairly new. Also replaced the
thermostat with a god used one. But the car still
overheats. Temp stayed around 118c. The coolant
overflow tank is clean with no oil trace. The upper
radiator hose was not pressurized when the car cooled
down. One thing I noticed was throughout whole time I
was testing the car the lower radiator hose was cold.
It seems to me the coolant did not get circulated
through the radiator at all. I want to suspect the
thermostat was the culprit but the one I just put in
was a known good one, actually came off the same car
when I did preventative maintenance. 

Any possibility that the water pump could be bad (put
in about 80k miles ago)? What usually happens when the
water pump goes out? Also how does the thermostat work
exactly? I understand the the bimetal parts expand at
the different rate when the coolant temp rises but
what exactly open the valves? Does the expansion rate
difference of the bi-metal opens the valve or the
pressure in the coolant system (applied by the water
pump) push open the valve? 

Any troubleshooting ideas are greatly appreciated.


Tan

Re: [MBZ] 124's

[Tan Qu]

Belt tensioner system and vacuum pump are really the
only two major preventative maintenance items on
602/603 engines. After these two updated you are
pretty much worry free on the engine part, of course
you still need to keep up with the typical
filter/fluid change stuffs. 

The awful random squeaky sound finally went away when
I replaced the belt tensioner system parts (shock,
lower tensioner lever, idler pulley) on my '91 300D. 
At first I thought it was a failing vacuum pump
(catastrophic if it evers goes) that got me really
worried. I swapped my old pump on but noises still
remained. So I figured it must be the lower tensioner
lever as the front plastic dust cover was missing.
Sure enough, with all the new parts now the engine
runs much quieter and the smooth clatter sound is just
soothing.


Tan 

--- OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> It's doing OK now - much quieter since I replaced
> the exhaust pipe
> with cracks at the center clamp and rear flange.
> That center suport
> bracket is suposed to be torqued to 5 ft.lb., but
> someone had
> tightened it enough to bury it 3/8" into the pipe
> and break the pipe
> there.
> I replaced the belt tensioning parts, and have the
> parts to fix the
> fuel preheat thermostat. I'll worry about the vacuum
> pump PM after we
> recover from the holiday financial shock.
> I found out that there's more to scratch repair than
> brushing a little
> paint into the scratch - it still loks scratched.
> Got to do my
> homework - - - - -
> 
> Now I've got TWO cars that Kaleb's drooling over -
> might have to trade
> one for the Starship -
> 
> On 12/27/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > Thats DON
> >
> > Donald Snook wrote:
> >
> > > Ok Don wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > "I far prefer driving the 124 chassis to the
> 123, and it's reputed to be
> > > less likely to rust than most other models. I
> opted to look for the
> > > 90-93 2.5 turbo model 124 instead of going for
> the max performance of
> > > the 1987 3.0 version due to the reputed greater
> fuel economy and I like
> > > to cool air intake slits in the right front
> fender."
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > How is the old car doing?  (Besides replacing
> the high dollar vacuum
> > > pump for pm reasons not because it failed don't
> want anyone to think I
> > > sold you a junk car.)  How did the paint repair
> go? Did you get all
> > > those coats of weekend wax off the fender?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Donald H. Snook
> > >
> > > Looking for a nice Benz
> > >
> > > ___
> > > http://www.striplin.net
> > > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > >
>
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> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> >   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
> >   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81
> 240D,
> >   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> > http://www.striplin.net
> >
> > ___
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> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
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> >
> 
> 
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> '90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
> The FSM created the Diesel Benz
> http://www.venganza.org/
> 
> ___
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> 
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>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] OM603 smoking ban

[Tan Qu]

Accordingly, the curve disk is no longer separate part
- have to get the whole timer assembly ($260 now?),
looks like that's what you did from the picture. I was
so relieved when I saw the disk surface on my new
rusty '91 300D was still in good condition - that
saved me $600 for a new vacuum pump and timer! 

Tan

--- "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Believe me, Tan, both times I had the head off, *I*
> was amazed the
> engine ran when I got it back together! ;-)
> 
> When I replaced the head, I was concerned about the
> wear on the timing
> device cam, as shown in that photo. However I did
> not replace it at
> that time. I've seen much worse, and since I was
> short on funds, I
> left it alone. A few years later when my timing
> cover broke, I decided
> it would never be easier to change the silly thing
> so I replaced it
> then. The wear had not gotten any worse in the
> ~20kmi in between. That
> part is not cheap, but I feel better with a fresh
> one installed. I
> would re-use the old/worn one on a different car if
> necessary, though.
> Photos of the new & old timer are here:
> 
>
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_timing_cover/
> 
> :-)
> 
> -Dave M.
> 
> > --
> > Date: Wed, 21 Dec 2005 07:13:57 -0800 (PST)
> > From: Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 smoking ban
> >
> > Dave,
> >
> > I am always mazed that guys like you on the list
> can
> > put an engine together and it still runs! Speaking
> of
> > the pictures at your website, I noticed the time
> > device has some considerable wear
> > 
>
<http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_head_replacement/timing_device_cam1.jpg>
> >
> > Did you replace it?
> >
> >
> > Tan
> 
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> 

Re: [MBZ] OM603 smoking ban

[Tan Qu]

Dave,

I am always mazed that guys like you on the list can
put an engine together and it still runs! Speaking of
the pictures at your website, I noticed the time
device has some considerable wear
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_head_replacement/timing_device_cam1.jpg
Did you replace it?


Tan

--- "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hi Tan,
> 
> I think it's an optical illusion. Some of the holes
> are different, but
> it's not a huge change. There are dark areas on the
> old head that can
> look like holes but really aren't. The block has
> large openings, and
> the head gasket has smaller holes to control fluid
> passage. Kind of an
> odd setup, really. If you poke around on my website,
> you can see
> photos of the block surface and the head gaskets
> too, for reference:
> 
>
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_head_replacement/
> 
> :-)
> 
> -Dave M.
> 
> > --
> > Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2005 13:20:27 -0800 (PST)
> > From: Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 smoking ban
> >
> > Dave,
> >
> > I noticed that the holes (oil and coolant
> pathways) on
> > the new head are quite different from the old head
> at
> > several locations. So the holes on the new head
> match
> > the holes on block perfectly?
> >
> > Tan
> 
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> 

Re: [MBZ] Front End Creak

[Tan Qu]

W123 has shock absorbers at the front so there is no
struct mounts. Ball joints on W201/W124 wear out
fairly quick compared to W123 in my experience.

Tan

--- Lee Levitt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> And another...upper strut mounts. Got one groaning
> right now.
> 
> Lee
> '93 300D 2.5 180K
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue Dec 20 20:16:32 PST 2005, Peter Frederick 
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > The other cause of creaks and groan is track rod
> bushings.
> > 
> > Ball joints squeal, creak, or groan while turning,
> whether the 
> > car is moving or not.  Thumps, creaks, or groans
> from the front 
> > end going over bumps or while braking are usually
> track rod 
> > bushings.
> > 
> > Turn the wheel side to side while listening -- if
> you get the 
> > same creak, it's ball joints for sure.  If it ONLY
> happens while 
> > turning and braking, or only when applying brakes,
> it's more 
> > likely track rob bushings on the body end.  Lift
> the rubber boot, 
> > when they are bad you can tell they have
> separated.
> > 
> > Bad ball joints need to be replaced pronto.
> > 
> > Peter
> > 
> > 
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> 

Re: [MBZ] OM603 smoking ban

[Tan Qu]

Dave,

I noticed that the holes (oil and coolant pathways) on
the new head are quite different from the old head at
several locations. So the holes on the new head match
the holes on block perfectly?

Tan

--- "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hi Casey,
> 
> I forget which, but I bought mine from either Baum
> Tools or
> Performance Products. The bridge and handle are
> likely the same for
> M102/103, but the foot piece is - I think - specific
> to the OM601/2/3
> engines. At approximately $200 for all three, there
> may be a gun and a
> mask involved when placing your 'order'.
> 
> I also noticed the head supply thinned out rapidly.
> There were several
> available a couple of months ago, but not anymore.
> If you can afford
> it, I would seriously think about a new #22 head (OE
> dealer - NOT
> aftermarket) since you will be, uh, breathing a
> little harder than
> normal on it. Only the #22 has the revised oil
> passage in front of the
> #1 cylinder. I'm not sure if that's the only change
> between it and the
> #20, or if there are other things too. I don't know
> the difference
> between the #17 and #20. The oil passage difference
> can be seen in
> this photo:
> 
>

> 
> :-)
> 
> HTH,
> 
> Dave M.
> > --
> > Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2005 10:16:53 -0800
> > From: Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM603 smoking ban
> >
> >
> > Dave, Rusty's site shows a stem seal set similar
> to the pics you have
> > of the OE versions (with a two-pack of stem
> condoms).
> >
> > Where did you purchase the SIR valve spring
> compressor?  Samstag's
> > site doesn't show a version for the OM60X engines,
> and ZD MAK shows
> > something that looks similar, but sez it's for
> M102 and M103 engines.
> > http://makeashorterlink.com/?G2E33185C
> >
> > I'm also considering using this opportunity to
> finally replace my #14
> > head, but of course,  the supply of #17 --> #22
> heads seems to have
> > all but dried up.  Other than PGA and Silver Star,
> are there any other
> > reputable MB breakers out there to consider as
> potential sources?
> >
> > Casey
> > Olympia, WA
> 
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Thinking about selling my 240D

[Tan Qu]

I know what you mean. Our 240D has been a reliable car
with 25k miles/year of driving on it. The only times
it had let me down was when I tried my odds on the
fuel reserve. If nobody is gonna buy it I might just
as well fix it and put it away until the other two
cars need a break.

Tan
--- OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> My kids are driving the '81 240D that MY grandfather
> bought new --
> four generations. Hard to do with another car.
> Fix it and keep it.
> 
> On 12/20/05, Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Bruce,
> >
> > My kids are still too young (6-1/2, 5 and one more
> on
> > the way in January) to be at the driving age yet.
> The
> > plan used to be that my son (the oldest) would get
> my
> > 240D and daughter would get the 190D turbo (i.e.,
> > speeding ticket) that mom is driving but it would
> be a
> > challenge for us right now to keep a car without
> > driving it. We pay about $900/year for insurance
> on
> > everyone we own so it adds up pretty quick.
> > However we have a family friend whose dad used to
> be a
> > pilot said she and her siblings learned to drive
> on
> > her dad's 240D some 20 years ago, same exact car
> in
> > exact color combination...
> >
> >
> > Tan
> >
> 
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> '90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
> The FSM created the Diesel Benz
> http://www.venganza.org/
> 
> ___
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> 

Re: [MBZ] Highway Debris 1 - Gas Tank 0

[Tan Qu]

I didn't know that MB made any E420 wagons in 1995.
E320 maybe?

Tan


--- Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Uhh, read what the car is again, 1995 E420 wagon.
> Wagon tanks are underneith.
>
>   -Curt
>
>   Date: Tue, 20 Dec 2005 07:55:28 -0800 (PST)
> From: Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Highway Debris 1 - Gas Tank 0
> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Message-ID:
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> 
> So this unknown object must have knocked a hole on
> the
> floor where the fuel tank sits too? 
> 
> 
> 
> __
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> protection around 
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> ___
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> 

Re: [MBZ] Highway Debris 1 - Gas Tank 0

[Tan Qu]

So this unknown object must have knocked a hole on the
floor where the fuel tank sits too? 



--- James Zavesky <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> So there we were, Deb I and the Kid, driving along
> on I480 in the 1995 E420
> wagon I bought her going west bound to the airport
> post office to mail xmas
> gifts. Motoring along in the passing lane doing 60
> or so when we heard a
> huge thud and the car shook. Steering was fine,
> exhaust remained quiet,
> tires felt fine. Saw nothing in the road. We tried
> to figure out what it was
> and even joked that maybe it was the same asshole
> that loosened the lugs on
> the V12 twice did something to this car. When we got
> out of the car at the
> airport Deb immediately smelled gas. Bad news was I
> had just filled the car
> up at the Bp station. I notified the postal
> employees who called the airport
> fire department. Most of the fuel drained out by the
> time they arrived and
> into the sewer system. Yep, a bad thing and the post
> office WAS busy. Filled
> out forms with the fire deparment and the EPA will
> probably get involved.
> Notified Nationwide Insurance who are basically
> useless. Had the car towed
> to Bedford Mercedes and I get a rental tommorrow.
> Visible damage looks like
> a hard ball size concave impression with a 2-3" gash
> at the apex. No scrapes
> going into it. One fireman told me that hitting a
> chunk of ice can do that.
> One of my friends went back over the area and didn't
> see any road debris.
> It's 10 degrees and the cold is amazing. Any
> thoughts on this?
> 
> James Zavesky
> 1991 500SL
> 1992 600SEL
> 1995 E320
> 
> 
> ___
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> 

Re: [MBZ] cheap (and ugly and abused) 124 wagon

[Tan Qu]

Dave,

I hear what you say. I have finally come to understand
how rasins are made...

Tan
--- Dave Wakin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> >  How does somebody abuse an interior like this?
> 
> In my case, it isn't sombody, but sombodies - 4 kids
> that manage to get 
> #%$#^ everywhere. Our 300TE wagon has had it's fair
> share of abuse - from 
> leaky bottles, splilled "spill-proof" cups, fast
> food that they must be 
> saving for latter, barbies and other toys they
> needed for the 2_mile_trip we 
> took, half-gnawed apples, discarded school work, and
> art class projects that 
> weren't completely dry before getting in the car.
> Basically, if a 2, 3, 6, 
> and 8 year old can get their hands on it, at minimum
> a trace of it is in the 
> car.
> 
> But that's why I bought it - so they'd have a car I
> really didn't care what 
> they did to it. A shop-vac and some elbow grease now
> and then usually does 
> recover it a little though, although it is kind of
> an endless loop.
> 
> Dave Wakin
> 
> 97 e320 (for the most part kid-free and clean)
> 90 300TE (reading above already tells you)
> 82 300SD (doesn't see any kids)
> 01 Yukon XL (the other kid mobile that we at least
> try to keep clean)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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> http://www.buymbparts.com/
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> 

Re: [MBZ] cheap 124 wagon

[Tan Qu]

Was the red interior was popular many years ago? Just
curious. 

Tan

--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-300TD-WAGON-RARE-1987-MERCEDES-300TD-WAGON-GREAT-CONDITION-NR_W0QQitemZ4599005971QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> 
> I'm pretty sure the car's been repainted. Interior
> is BEAT.
> 
> MARSHALL
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
> questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
> 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
> turbo 237kmi
> 
> ___
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> 

Re: [MBZ] Thinking about selling my 240D

[Tan Qu]

Bruce,

My kids are still too young (6-1/2, 5 and one more on
the way in January) to be at the driving age yet. The
plan used to be that my son (the oldest) would get my
240D and daughter would get the 190D turbo (i.e.,
speeding ticket) that mom is driving but it would be a
challenge for us right now to keep a car without
driving it. We pay about $900/year for insurance on
everyone we own so it adds up pretty quick.
However we have a family friend whose dad used to be a
pilot said she and her siblings learned to drive on
her dad's 240D some 20 years ago, same exact car in
exact color combination...


Tan 

--- B Dike <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Tan,
>   
>   Simply add a teen-age driver or two to your family
> and savor the deep  satisfaction of watching them
> grow to embrace the functionality,  frugality, and
> individuality of a vehicle like the 240D.
>   
>   Cheers,
>   
>   Bruce
> 
> Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Well I am
> deciding whether to keep my old 240D or sell
> it. This is a 1982 240D 4-speed manual with almost
> 270,000 miles on it. It's not perfect but is a lot
> better than you may think. I will try to describe
> its
> condition in detail.
> 
> The car spent most of its life in Georgia until 4
> years ago the 2nd owner brought it to Florida. I am
> the 3rd owner I think. The first owner was a
> minister
> and a good friend of the 2nd owner. The 2nd owner
> pegged him for many years and one day finally won
> it.
> Being a southern car it almost has zero rust except
> one place - under the lower left corner of the rear
> windshield seal - the 2nd PO waited too long to
> replace the cracked windshield seal. It's very small
> (1/4") and is not visible (under the new windshield)
> if I don't tell you. I had the seal replaced soon
> after I bought it. The front windshield and seal
> have
> been replaced and is in great condition. Other than
> this spot, the car is pretty much rust-free. The
> bottom of chassis is in a beautiful condition. 
> 
> Engine:
> The engine has always been well maintained. 2nd PO
> used Amsoil 15W40 synthetic oil while he owned it. I
> use Mobil-1 15W50 and Amsoil 15W40 (most of the
> time).
> I have replaced timing chain, chain tensioner and
> valve seals soon after I acquired it. The chain was
> riveted with the OEM tool (SIR tool not the Mercedes
> tool) and was returned to 0 degree stretch after the
> chain was replaced. Right now it is close to 2
> degrees
> so I think the gears and other parts had some wear.
> The valve seals were replaced with the OEM tool (SIR
> tool) as well. The car does not smoke at start up or
> warmed up. The engine does have blowby and at this
> time I think either rings are still sticking or just
> plainly worn. It uses a quart of oil every 800 to
> 1000
> miles, mostly on highway. I drive it at average 75
> mph
> or sometime over 80 mph when passing (a pain with 67
> HP). It has good power and can maintain the 75 mph
> cruising speed effortlessly. 
> Thermostat has been replaced and I have always used
> MB
> antifreeze. The coolant temp stay at 80 to 82 degree
> steady. 2nd PO has all belts and hoses replaced
> prior
> to I bought it (60k miles ago). Fuel filters
> (primary
> and spin-on), air filters replaced every 15k miles.
> The fuel strainer and the fitted hose at the fuel
> tank
> are new (did last year). I took the tank out and
> flushed the whole thing. Cleaned fuel level sender
> and
> replaced the seals. Also put in a new fuel filler
> neck
> seal. Power steering filter and fluid were replaced
> by
> P.O. (60k miles ago). New glow plugs (Bosch, did
> last
> December). 
> 
> Transmission/Driveline:
> The clutch plate and pressure plate were replaced
> last
> year. The clutch plate was new and pressure plate
> was
> used. New throwout bearing. Mobil-1 ATF in the
> manual
> transmission. New clutch slave cylinder (gold ATE).
> New clutch master cylinder (FTE/Sachs?). 2nd owner
> did
> the flex discs (front and rear) 60k miles ago. One
> of
> the half shafts was replaced with a good used one
> (not
> rebuilt). Both half shafts are in good condition.
> All
> transmission linkage bushings are new (genuine MB
> parts, still has old ones, they are still good). All
> bushing in the shifter assembly are new too (MB
> parts). New shifter knob. 
> 
> A/C:
> This model has the manual A/C and heater control.
> A/C
> was retrofiited to the R-134A system. Remanufactured
> R-4 compressor. It works but is probably not
> satisfactory to many on this list. I don't usually
> use
> it around the town. I mostly use it on highway. It
> cools marginal - cold but not icy (

Re: [MBZ] OM603 smoking ban

[Tan Qu]

I think Dave M. was the only one on the list who did
the valve stem seals on the OM60X engine. I did this
on my 240D but I remember the required tool was
completely different. 60X engine requires a "bridge"
tool and a crawlfoot to do this job. Trial &
elimination approach sometimes does get expensive,
doesn't it? All in all, the collective knowledge on
this list probably has saved us a lot of $$$.

Tan



--- Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> So, in an effort to diagnose and (hopefully) fix my
> OM603's excessive
> blue smoking problem upon acceleration, I picked up
> a cheap rebuilt
> 350 SDL turbo on ebay ($150), thinking it might stem
> a source of oil
> entering the intake stream--it didn't.  My recent
> compression test
> didn't reveal any anomalous readings in any of the
> cyls, especially
> #1, which had been thought to be a candidate for a
> breached chain
> vault leak--it wasn't.  So, now I'm back to valve
> stem seals as the
> prime culprit.  Anyone know who's the best tool
> source and brand name
> for the valve spring compressor used to get at the
> seals while the
> head is still installed?  I seem to remember Dave M
> saying to only use
> MB stem seals.
> 
> Any other thoughts?
> 
> btw:  I was able to re-clock the turbo and
> significantly shorten my IC
> plumbing, while installing a bigger breather setup. 
> I'll post pics
> and a write up on Rusty's web forum.
> 
> Casey
> Olympia, WA
> Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative
> state"
> '87 300TD intercooler (211k)
> '84 300D (207k)
> Gashuffer:
> '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (186K)
> 
> ___
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> 
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>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] Thinking about selling my 240D

[Tan Qu]

DeLand, Florida. I can take some pictures and post
them tomorrow. Do we have a place on the list I can
post some pictures? 

Tan

--- Sunil Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Where are you?  Got any pics?
> 
> On 12/19/05, Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Well I am deciding whether to keep my old 240D or
> sell
> > it. This is a 1982 240D 4-speed manual with almost
> > 270,000 miles on it. It's not perfect but is a lot
> > better than you may think. I will try to describe
> its
> > condition in detail.
> >
> > The car spent most of its life in Georgia until 4
> > years ago the 2nd owner brought it to Florida. I
> am
> > the 3rd owner I think. The first owner was a
> minister
> > and a good friend of the 2nd owner. The 2nd owner
> > pegged him for many years and one day finally won
> it.
> > Being a southern car it almost has zero rust
> except
> > one place - under the lower left corner of the
> rear
> > windshield seal - the 2nd PO waited too long to
> > replace the cracked windshield seal. It's very
> small
> > (1/4") and is not visible (under the new
> windshield)
> > if I don't tell you. I had the seal replaced soon
> > after I bought it. The front windshield and seal
> have
> > been replaced and is in great condition. Other
> than
> > this spot, the car is pretty much rust-free. The
> > bottom of chassis is in a beautiful condition.
> >
> > Engine:
> > The engine has always been well maintained. 2nd PO
> > used Amsoil 15W40 synthetic oil while he owned it.
> I
> > use Mobil-1 15W50 and Amsoil 15W40 (most of the
> time).
> > I have replaced timing chain, chain tensioner and
> > valve seals soon after I acquired it. The chain
> was
> > riveted with the OEM tool (SIR tool not the
> Mercedes
> > tool) and was returned to 0 degree stretch after
> the
> > chain was replaced. Right now it is close to 2
> degrees
> > so I think the gears and other parts had some
> wear.
> > The valve seals were replaced with the OEM tool
> (SIR
> > tool) as well. The car does not smoke at start up
> or
> > warmed up. The engine does have blowby and at this
> > time I think either rings are still sticking or
> just
> > plainly worn. It uses a quart of oil every 800 to
> 1000
> > miles, mostly on highway. I drive it at average 75
> mph
> > or sometime over 80 mph when passing (a pain with
> 67
> > HP). It has good power and can maintain the 75 mph
> > cruising speed effortlessly.
> > Thermostat has been replaced and I have always
> used MB
> > antifreeze. The coolant temp stay at 80 to 82
> degree
> > steady. 2nd PO has all belts and hoses replaced
> prior
> > to I bought it (60k miles ago). Fuel filters
> (primary
> > and spin-on), air filters replaced every 15k
> miles.
> > The fuel strainer and the fitted hose at the fuel
> tank
> > are new (did last year). I took the tank out and
> > flushed the whole thing. Cleaned fuel level sender
> and
> > replaced the seals. Also put in a new fuel filler
> neck
> > seal. Power steering filter and fluid were
> replaced by
> > P.O. (60k miles ago). New glow plugs (Bosch, did
> last
> > December).
> >
> > Transmission/Driveline:
> > The clutch plate and pressure plate were replaced
> last
> > year. The clutch plate was new and pressure plate
> was
> > used. New throwout bearing. Mobil-1 ATF in the
> manual
> > transmission. New clutch slave cylinder (gold
> ATE).
> > New clutch master cylinder (FTE/Sachs?). 2nd owner
> did
> > the flex discs (front and rear) 60k miles ago. One
> of
> > the half shafts was replaced with a good used one
> (not
> > rebuilt). Both half shafts are in good condition.
> All
> > transmission linkage bushings are new (genuine MB
> > parts, still has old ones, they are still good).
> All
> > bushing in the shifter assembly are new too (MB
> > parts). New shifter knob.
> >
> > A/C:
> > This model has the manual A/C and heater control.
> A/C
> > was retrofiited to the R-134A system.
> Remanufactured
> > R-4 compressor. It works but is probably not
> > satisfactory to many on this list. I don't usually
> use
> > it around the town. I mostly use it on highway. It
> > cools marginal - cold but not icy (I am in
> Florida).
> > Need to recharge every two years. Heater on this
> car
> > is toasty. The manual heater valve was replaced.
> >
> > Brake system:
> > 2nd PO replaced all the brak

[MBZ] Thinking about selling my 240D

[Tan Qu]

Well I am deciding whether to keep my old 240D or sell
it. This is a 1982 240D 4-speed manual with almost
270,000 miles on it. It's not perfect but is a lot
better than you may think. I will try to describe its
condition in detail.

The car spent most of its life in Georgia until 4
years ago the 2nd owner brought it to Florida. I am
the 3rd owner I think. The first owner was a minister
and a good friend of the 2nd owner. The 2nd owner
pegged him for many years and one day finally won it.
Being a southern car it almost has zero rust except
one place - under the lower left corner of the rear
windshield seal - the 2nd PO waited too long to
replace the cracked windshield seal. It's very small
(1/4") and is not visible (under the new windshield)
if I don't tell you. I had the seal replaced soon
after I bought it. The front windshield and seal have
been replaced and is in great condition. Other than
this spot, the car is pretty much rust-free. The
bottom of chassis is in a beautiful condition. 

Engine:
The engine has always been well maintained. 2nd PO
used Amsoil 15W40 synthetic oil while he owned it. I
use Mobil-1 15W50 and Amsoil 15W40 (most of the time).
I have replaced timing chain, chain tensioner and
valve seals soon after I acquired it. The chain was
riveted with the OEM tool (SIR tool not the Mercedes
tool) and was returned to 0 degree stretch after the
chain was replaced. Right now it is close to 2 degrees
so I think the gears and other parts had some wear.
The valve seals were replaced with the OEM tool (SIR
tool) as well. The car does not smoke at start up or
warmed up. The engine does have blowby and at this
time I think either rings are still sticking or just
plainly worn. It uses a quart of oil every 800 to 1000
miles, mostly on highway. I drive it at average 75 mph
or sometime over 80 mph when passing (a pain with 67
HP). It has good power and can maintain the 75 mph
cruising speed effortlessly. 
Thermostat has been replaced and I have always used MB
antifreeze. The coolant temp stay at 80 to 82 degree
steady. 2nd PO has all belts and hoses replaced prior
to I bought it (60k miles ago). Fuel filters (primary
and spin-on), air filters replaced every 15k miles.
The fuel strainer and the fitted hose at the fuel tank
are new (did last year). I took the tank out and
flushed the whole thing. Cleaned fuel level sender and
replaced the seals. Also put in a new fuel filler neck
seal. Power steering filter and fluid were replaced by
P.O. (60k miles ago). New glow plugs (Bosch, did last
December). 

Transmission/Driveline:
The clutch plate and pressure plate were replaced last
year. The clutch plate was new and pressure plate was
used. New throwout bearing. Mobil-1 ATF in the manual
transmission. New clutch slave cylinder (gold ATE).
New clutch master cylinder (FTE/Sachs?). 2nd owner did
the flex discs (front and rear) 60k miles ago. One of
the half shafts was replaced with a good used one (not
rebuilt). Both half shafts are in good condition. All
transmission linkage bushings are new (genuine MB
parts, still has old ones, they are still good). All
bushing in the shifter assembly are new too (MB
parts). New shifter knob. 

A/C:
This model has the manual A/C and heater control. A/C
was retrofiited to the R-134A system. Remanufactured
R-4 compressor. It works but is probably not
satisfactory to many on this list. I don't usually use
it around the town. I mostly use it on highway. It
cools marginal - cold but not icy (I am in Florida).
Need to recharge every two years. Heater on this car
is toasty. The manual heater valve was replaced.

Brake system:
2nd PO replaced all the brake pads (60k miles ago). I
flush the system once a year with Volvoline syntec so
it has been problem free. The seal beteen the brake
master cylinder and brake booster may need replacing.
It is a littel wet at the connetion surface. 

Suspension/steering

New upper control arms. New steering damper and idler
arm. Tie rods and ball joints in good condition. The
only thing needs replacing at the front end are guide
rod mounts. New sway bar links at the rear. Subframe
mounts may need replacing. New KYB shocks at front and
back (yes I cheaped out on this one). Ride ok but
probably not as good as Bilstein. 


Cruise control:
Not working presently. The AMP was bad. I have a
remanufactured one but never put it in - I just don't
have any use of it.

Sunroof:
Working properly. Bought the sunroof lube from Rusty
but haven't got a chance to lube the rails yet.

Tires:
Almost new. Replaced 3 months ago. Kuhmo brand.

Windows:
Manual windows. Works properly.

Extras:
Passenger side mirror. Trunk mounted triangle
(european delivery).

I think I have covered the mechanical aspects of the
car so now I will tell you why I am selling it. I had
three accidents (minor) on this car this year. The
first one scratched the driver side doors. The paint
condition before the accident was very very good.
Being afraid the new paint may not match the old in a
couple 

Re: [MBZ] Rear end noise - '87 190DT

[Tan Qu]

Thanks Marshall. I didn't think the subframe mount
would cause that either. 

Tan

--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Tan Qu wrote:
> > Another question is: how often do you all replace
> the
> > differential fluid? I probably need to drain the
> > differential to see what kind of condition the
> fluid
> > is in to rule out a failing differential. Then new
> > flex disks next to see if the problem goes away. I
> am
> > not feeling any vibration from the driveline so I
> > guess the center bearing components are OK? Also,
> I
> > understand axles on MB's are live axles so could
> > collaped subframe mounts really cause this
> problem? 
> 
> Collapsed subframe mounts have never cause anything
> like you described 
> on my cars. The car becomes twitchy at high speeds.
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
> questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
> 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
> turbo 237kmi
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] Rear end noise - '87 190DT

[Tan Qu]

Another question is: how often do you all replace the
differential fluid? I probably need to drain the
differential to see what kind of condition the fluid
is in to rule out a failing differential. Then new
flex disks next to see if the problem goes away. I am
not feeling any vibration from the driveline so I
guess the center bearing components are OK? Also, I
understand axles on MB's are live axles so could
collaped subframe mounts really cause this problem? 


Tan

--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Tan Qu wrote:
> > Yes. When car was up and emergency brake OFF I was
> > able to spin the wheels just two months ago when I
> > changed all pads. Also the binding problem seems
> to
> > never happen if it gently (I mean really slowly)
> > accelerate from a stopped condition. It feels like
> > something suddenly got stuck when there is too
> much
> > torque. Letting the accelerator pad off and
> > re-accelerating then everything is normal. 
> 
> A bad CV or U joint or flex disc COULD cause
> something like what you 
> describe. When speed/acceleration is an issue it is
> USUALLY one of the 
> structures that permits the driveline to flex.
> That's conjecture on my 
> part, but that principle has not failed me over the
> years. I've also 
> heard that a bad driveshaft center bearing carrier
> can cause a problem 
> too, but only when the car is going 40-50 mph.
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
> questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
> 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
> turbo 237kmi
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] Rear end noise - '87 190DT

[Tan Qu]

Yes. When car was up and emergency brake OFF I was
able to spin the wheels just two months ago when I
changed all pads. Also the binding problem seems to
never happen if it gently (I mean really slowly)
accelerate from a stopped condition. It feels like
something suddenly got stuck when there is too much
torque. Letting the accelerator pad off and
re-accelerating then everything is normal. 


Tan 

--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Tan Qu wrote:
> > Our '87 190Dt started to make some noise from the
> back
> > of the car, more likely from where the rear end
> is.
> > When the car accelerate from standstill (for
> exmaplen
> > at a stop sign), the car feels being dragged, the
> > engine RPM goes up but the actual car speed does
> not
> > seem to go up and there is this churning sound
> from
> > the back of the car. This happens mostly where the
> car
> > makes right-hand turn from at the stop sign. 
> > 
> > I have replaced all brake pads and flushed the
> brake
> > system thinking it was a dragging pad but it
> didn't
> > seem to solve the problem. I am planning on to go
> back
> > to lube the caliper pins to see if it would help.
> 
> Have you checked the emergency brake shoes?
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth Ph.D.
> Ass't Prof. (ret.)
> Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> ___
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> 

Re: [MBZ] Rear end noise - '87 190DT

[Tan Qu]

The car handles pretty tight. It is just binding noise
that concerns me. I do have the new links - you were
talking about the rear sway bar links not the rear
camber struts, were you? 

Do the subframe mounts really need the special tool to
R&R?

Tan

--- Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> On Thu, Dec 15, 2005 at 02:02:54PM -0800, Tan Qu
> wrote:
> > Was that a big job? How long did it take you to do
> it?
> > If lubing the calipers pin do not help, I may have
> to
> > look to go in that way. 
> 
> Unfortunately, I dropped that subframe enough that I
> could get it 
> dropped in under a half hour, and bolting it up took
> about the same.
> The subframe mounts are much easier if you have the
> tool. I'd probably
> try to inspect the subframe mounts and links before
> I made an order - 
> the links made a bigger difference in my car. Then
> again, in yours, you
> sounded like you were feeling the subframe shift.
> 
> If you replace the links, you're going to need an
> alignment. The mounts 
> shouldn't require one.
> 
> The first time I did the subframe, it took me about
> three hours for all
> four mounts, and I was taking my time. Replacing all
> the links and moving
> the new mounts from the old subframe to the new
> subframe took most of the
> day, but was easy with the subframe out of the
> vehicle.
> 
> K
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> 

Re: [MBZ] Rear end noise - '87 190DT

[Tan Qu]

Was that a big job? How long did it take you to do it?
If lubing the calipers pin do not help, I may have to
look to go in that way. 

Tan

--- Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> On Thu, Dec 15, 2005 at 01:49:15PM -0800, Tan Qu
> wrote:
> > Four sets of bolts and washer hold the
> differential in place. 
> 
> The washer is a boring old flat washer.
> 
> > Well, would this new finding suggesting the
> subframe
> > mounts have collapsed and caused the change of the
> > geometry of differential/drive shaft/axles?
> 
> They somewhat did on my 85 190D, but what I found
> was shortly after I did
> the subframe mounts, I had the subframe down and was
> replacing it (due to
> rust, stupid 201s rust up like nobody's business) as
> well as the four links
> on each side. I still have one link on each side to
> do (the LCA), but 
> the ride height and handling was vastly improved by
> doing that.
> 
> K
> 
> ___
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> 

Re: [MBZ] Rear end noise - '87 190DT

[Tan Qu]

That's what Rusty said when I just talked to him.
There is no differential mount for W201 at least the
190Dt. Four sets of bolts and washer hold the
differential in place. Could the washer be something
like this -
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/buymb/quote.jsp?clientid=buymbparts&cookieid=1HE0TZ36I1OO0ZYV8G&baseurl=http://www.buymbparts.com/&partner=buymb&year=1991&product=J7070-24772&application=000271741


Well, would this new finding suggesting the subframe
mounts have collapsed and caused the change of the
geometry of differential/drive shaft/axles?


Tan

--- Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> On Thu, Dec 15, 2005 at 03:30:11PM -0500, Marshall
> Booth wrote:
> > The 202 subframe mount has been used to suppress
> differential noise in 
> > 201 series cars almost as soon as they became
> available. I believe they 
> > now supersede the 201 subframe mounts.
> 
> They sort of do. One set was a 202 part number, the
> other was a 124 number
> IIRC.
> 
> > I have NO idea whether the 124 and 201
> differential mounts are the same.
> > Many 124 and 201 parts are shared, but I don't
> think the differential 
> > mounts are.
> 
> They are not. A 201 has four bolts that go through
> the subframe into the
> differential case. The 124/126 have actual mounts
> that aren't metal on
> metal.
> 
> K
> 
> ___
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> 

Re: [MBZ] Vacuum pump question answered, plus rant -NOW SEATS

[Tan Qu]

In my experience, the driver seat in the W201 does not
provide as good lumbar support as the W124 or even my
old W123 240D seat. If you can find an used W124 E320
orthopedic seat and make it work you will be very
happy, especially if you are going to make long trips
in that car.


Tan

--- Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> > On that last point, does anybody have a driver's
> seat for a w201? I 
> > have
> > a quote of $500 to rebuild it with a new seat
> frame. I wonder if this 
> > is something I could do myself and save some
> money?
> 
> It is very common to take a donor passenger seat and
> to combine parts
> to make a good driver's seat.  I have a seat set for
> the 201 (or did I
> have two?), and the best passenger cover is now in
> our 107.  We do now
> own a 201 car, so I may well be using my extra
> parts.  I vowed not to
> touch the 190D until the genset was back together
> again, so it's
> getting close.
> 
> A pair of front seats is $20 at the U-Pull here,
> that's where I got
> the extras.  I figured $20 for a good seat cover
> that might work in
> the SL was a good deal, and any extra use I got out
> of them would be
> gravy.
> 
> Shipping entire seats is a bit of a killer, though. 
> Your best bet
> (cost-wise) is to find something locally.  To be
> fair, your $500 will
> get you an as-new seat, other approaches will give
> you somewhat less.
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> 
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> 

Re: [MBZ] Rear end noise - '87 190DT

[Tan Qu]

Does W201 use the same differential mounts as the W124
or other models? I can find the mounts for W124 at
Rusty's website but not for W201. Also, is there a
particular reason you used W202 subframe mount in lieu
of the original W201 mounts just part availability
issue?


Tan


--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Tan Qu wrote:
> > Marshall,
> > 
> > The brake hoses (all 4 of them) and the rear
> calipers
> > (ATE) are new. I never changed the differential
> fluid
> > for whole time I owned this car (from 100k to now
> > 250k). There was no leaks or anything last time I
> was
> > under the car. I am hoping some new differential
> > mounts may solve the problem but am having hard
> time
> > to find the parts at Rusty's website. I need to
> give
> > him a call. How long the differential mounts and
> flex
> > plates tend to last on the W201's in your
> experience?
> 
> Differential mounts have been replaced in two of the
> 5 201s I've owned. 
> They probably last 15-18 years or about 200kmi. They
> are responsible for 
> positioning the differential and rear axle. The
> subframe mounts have the 
> primary job of isolating the differential from the
> chassis and changing 
> from 201 to 202 subframe mounts quiets differential
> noise A LOT!
> 
> What you are describing is NOT a common complaint
> and I don't have a 
> sure-fire answer for it - I'm GUESSING.
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
> questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
> 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
> turbo 237kmi
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

Re: [MBZ] Rear end noise - '87 190DT

[Tan Qu]

Marshall,

The brake hoses (all 4 of them) and the rear calipers
(ATE) are new. I never changed the differential fluid
for whole time I owned this car (from 100k to now
250k). There was no leaks or anything last time I was
under the car. I am hoping some new differential
mounts may solve the problem but am having hard time
to find the parts at Rusty's website. I need to give
him a call. How long the differential mounts and flex
plates tend to last on the W201's in your experience?


Tan


--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Tan Qu wrote:
> > Our '87 190Dt started to make some noise from the
> back
> > of the car, more likely from where the rear end
> is.
> > When the car accelerate from standstill (for
> exmaplen
> > at a stop sign), the car feels being dragged, the
> > engine RPM goes up but the actual car speed does
> not
> > seem to go up and there is this churning sound
> from
> > the back of the car. This happens mostly where the
> car
> > makes right-hand turn from at the stop sign. 
> > 
> > I have replaced all brake pads and flushed the
> brake
> > system thinking it was a dragging pad but it
> didn't
> > seem to solve the problem. I am planning on to go
> back
> > to lube the caliper pins to see if it would help.
> > 
> > Could it be a sign that the differential or the
> axles
> > are failing? It gives me a feeling the rear end
> wasn't
> > engaged and the transmission spins without load
> when
> > this happens. Or could it be failing companion
> > coupling at the drive shaft or even the
> differential
> > mount?
> > 
> > Car has about 250k miles on it. Both the engine
> mounts
> > and transmission mount were replaced not long ago.
> > 
> 
> If the rear brake hoses have delaminated (not
> unusual after 15+ years) 
> that MIGHT result in what you describe. If the
> differential mounts have 
> failed that can allow the differential/axle assembly
> to twist and that 
> can cause binding too. Not sure about the effects
> when some of the link 
> bushings fail.
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
> questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
> 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
> turbo 237kmi
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

[MBZ] Rear end noise - '87 190DT

[Tan Qu]

Our '87 190Dt started to make some noise from the back
of the car, more likely from where the rear end is.
When the car accelerate from standstill (for exmaplen
at a stop sign), the car feels being dragged, the
engine RPM goes up but the actual car speed does not
seem to go up and there is this churning sound from
the back of the car. This happens mostly where the car
makes right-hand turn from at the stop sign. 

I have replaced all brake pads and flushed the brake
system thinking it was a dragging pad but it didn't
seem to solve the problem. I am planning on to go back
to lube the caliper pins to see if it would help.

Could it be a sign that the differential or the axles
are failing? It gives me a feeling the rear end wasn't
engaged and the transmission spins without load when
this happens. Or could it be failing companion
coupling at the drive shaft or even the differential
mount?

Car has about 250k miles on it. Both the engine mounts
and transmission mount were replaced not long ago.



Tan
'87 190Dt
'91 300D

Re: [MBZ] 300SDL Engine Vacuum pump question

[Tan Qu]

This seems to indicate the small port is plugged.
There is supposed to be an inline filter fitting where
the hose from the small port to the "+" connector to
intercept the dust/particle in the line. Without it
the small port will be clogged up over the time. The
small plastic inline filter (has mesh in it) is a MB
item. I had ordered two from Rusty years ago but can't
seem to find them at this time. Check to see if the
filter is still there or clogged up. Now another
possibility is to remove the small port from the
vacuum pump and clean it but I have no idea if it is
doable...


Tan


--- Brian Smyla <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> The vacuum pump on the engine in my '86 300SDL has
> two ports; one is for the
> brake booster, the other is a smaller port that
> appears to handle the
> emission control system.  Does the pump supply
> vacuum to both of these
> ports?  I have vacuum on the brake booster port, but
> not on the smaller
> port.  Is this a normal condition?
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
>  
> 
> Brian Smyla
> 
>  
> 
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] my wife did it!

[Tan Qu]

Both of my '87 190Dt and '91 300D can unlock all the
doors from the trunk. Does it work the same way on the
W124 wagons? 


Tan

--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> andrew strasfogel wrote:
> > And MY son's friend broke off his ONLY key in the
> door lock (1985 300D).  He
> > (son) obtained a replacement key from the dealer
> based on the VIN but it
> > fits neither the front PS door (the broken key is
> still lodged in the
> > driver's sdie door lock) nor the ignition. 
> Suggestions, anyone?
> 
> Some Mercedes (all of my 124/201s made after '84 on)
> can be 
> locked/unlocked from the trunk. Not sure about a
> 123, but worth a try.
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
> questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
> 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
> turbo 237kmi
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] 1992 300SD ON EBAY

[Tan Qu]

If your read further in the question/answer section,
he clarified the engine in the car right now does not
have any parts from the old motor. When I talked to
him he did say it was MB rebuilt from Germany and has
the receipt for it. But again, you can only trust
someone's words to some extent, even with his 100%
feedback.  


Tan
--- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> yep, you are correct
> 
> Donald Snook wrote:
> 
> > Tan wrote:
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > "The engine has been replaced with a factory crate
> one
> > 
> > 
> >>20k miles ago and talked to the owner A/C was
> replaced
> > 
> > 
> >>not too long ago too."
> > 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Did you notice what he actually said on the
> listing he wrote:
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > "The engine problem was fixed under warrenty. It
> is not a common problem
> > with MB whatsoever. A german automotive specialist
> replaced the engine
> > using parts delievered from MB."
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > This is not the same as getting a factory rebuilt
> crate motor.  This
> > description sounds like a local dealer rebuilt the
> engine itself.  NOT
> > THE SAME as installing a factory rebuilt.  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > Donald H. Snook
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > -- next part --
> > A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> > Name: not available
> > Type: image/gif
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> > 
> > 
> 
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
>   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
> 
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Re: [MBZ] One more Carfax request

[Tan Qu]

Had the seller displayed all the receipts on the ebay
the price would have gone much higher. Even if you win
it and the seller does not have receipt you still can
back out as it was misrepresented. Talked to the guy
yesterday and he said he does have all the receipts. 

Tan

--- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I would want to see receipts for that engine.
> 
> Tan Qu wrote:
> 
> > Looks like someone is going to get a steal deal on
> > this car -
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4594859231&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AWNA%3AMT%3A12
> > 
> > The engine has been replaced with a factory crate
> one
> > 20k miles ago and talked to the owner A/C was
> replaced
> > not too long ago too. Thinking about driving S
> class
> > car for at least next 200k miles without problems
> on
> > the engine! For the current bid price you can't
> even
> > buy a 150k e300D.
> > 
> > Someone on the list please get it!
> > 
> > Tan
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> >>Vehicle Snapshot
> >>Vehicle 1992 Mercedes-Benz 300 Series 300SD
> >>VIN WDBGB34E6NA053060
> >>Body Style 4 Door Sedan
> >>Country of Manufacture Germany
> >>
> >>
> >>Vehicle History Checklist
> >>Vehicle Description WDBGB34E6NA053060
> >>Title Check No records found
> >>Problem Check No records found
> >>Odometer Check No records found
> >>Vehicle Information No records found
> >>Full History Records found
> >>
> >>  Title Check
> >>Your vehicle checks out!
> >>
> >>Abandoned No Abandoned Records Found
> >>Damaged No Damaged Records Found
> >>Fire Damage No Fire Damage Records Found
> >>Grey Market No Grey Market Records Found
> >>Hail Damage No Hail Damage Records Found
> >>Insurance Loss No Insurance Loss Records Found
> >>Junk No Junk Records Found
> >>Rebuilt/Rebuildable No Rebuilt/Rebuildable Records
> >>Found
> >>Salvage No Salvage Records Found
> >>
> >>
> >>  Problem Check
> >>Your vehicle checks out!
> >>
> >>NHTSA Crash Test Vehicle No NHTSA Crash Test
> Vehicle
> >>Records Found
> >>Fire Damage Incident No Fire Damage Incident
> Records
> >>Found
> >>Frame Damage No Frame Damage Records Found
> >>Major Damage No Major Damage Records Found
> >>Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon No Manufacturer
> >>Buyback/Lemon Records Found
> >>Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon No Manufacturer
> >>Buyback/Lemon Records Found
> >>Odometer Problem No Odometer Problem Records Found
> >>Salvage Auction No Salvage Auction Records Found
> >>Water Damage No Water Damage Records Found
> >>
> >>
> >>  Vehicle Information
> >>Your vehicle checks out!
> >>
> >>Accident Data No Accident Data Records Found
> >>Corrected Title No Corrected Title Records Found
> >>Driver Education No Driver Education Records Found
> >>Duplicate Title No Duplicate Title Records Found
> >>Emission/Safety Inspection No Emission/Safety
> >>Inspection Records Found
> >>Livery Use No Livery Use Records Found
> >>Government Use No Government Use Records Found
> >>Police Use No Police Use Records Found
> >>Rental/Fleet No Rental/Fleet Records Found
> >>Repossessed No Repossessed Records Found
> >>Taxi Use No Taxi Use Records Found
> >>Theft No Theft Records Found
> >>
> >>
> >>  Vehicle History Records
> >>We have searched the Experian Automotive National
> >>Vehicle Database of 
> >>insurance, DMV, and auto auction information and
> >>found the following 16 
> >>records for this 1992 MERCEDES-BENZ 300 SERIES
> >>300SD. Note the 
> >>highlighted rows for potential issues that could
> >>affect the value of 
> >>this vehicle.
> >>
> >>Date Location Mileage Description
> >>1992-07-08 atkinson, NH 74 title
> >>1996-09-13 atkinson, NH  registration
> event/renewal
> >>1997-09-16 atkinson, NH  registration
> event/renewal
> >>1998-09-04 atkinson, NH  registration
> event/renewal
> >>1999-09-07 atkinson, NH  registration
> event/renewal
> >>2003-06-09 manchester, NH 49458 vehicle in dealer
> >>inventory
> >>2003-06-17 new england region, 49556 reported at
>

Re: [MBZ] One more Carfax request

[Tan Qu]

Looks like someone is going to get a steal deal on
this car -
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4594859231&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AWNA%3AMT%3A12

The engine has been replaced with a factory crate one
20k miles ago and talked to the owner A/C was replaced
not too long ago too. Thinking about driving S class
car for at least next 200k miles without problems on
the engine! For the current bid price you can't even
buy a 150k e300D.

Someone on the list please get it!

Tan



--- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Vehicle Snapshot
> Vehicle 1992 Mercedes-Benz 300 Series 300SD
> VIN WDBGB34E6NA053060
> Body Style 4 Door Sedan
> Country of Manufacture Germany
> 
> 
> Vehicle History Checklist
> Vehicle Description WDBGB34E6NA053060
> Title Check No records found
> Problem Check No records found
> Odometer Check No records found
> Vehicle Information No records found
> Full History Records found
> 
>   Title Check
> Your vehicle checks out!
> 
> Abandoned No Abandoned Records Found
> Damaged No Damaged Records Found
> Fire Damage No Fire Damage Records Found
> Grey Market No Grey Market Records Found
> Hail Damage No Hail Damage Records Found
> Insurance Loss No Insurance Loss Records Found
> Junk No Junk Records Found
> Rebuilt/Rebuildable No Rebuilt/Rebuildable Records
> Found
> Salvage No Salvage Records Found
> 
> 
>   Problem Check
> Your vehicle checks out!
> 
> NHTSA Crash Test Vehicle No NHTSA Crash Test Vehicle
> Records Found
> Fire Damage Incident No Fire Damage Incident Records
> Found
> Frame Damage No Frame Damage Records Found
> Major Damage No Major Damage Records Found
> Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon No Manufacturer
> Buyback/Lemon Records Found
> Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon No Manufacturer
> Buyback/Lemon Records Found
> Odometer Problem No Odometer Problem Records Found
> Salvage Auction No Salvage Auction Records Found
> Water Damage No Water Damage Records Found
> 
> 
>   Vehicle Information
> Your vehicle checks out!
> 
> Accident Data No Accident Data Records Found
> Corrected Title No Corrected Title Records Found
> Driver Education No Driver Education Records Found
> Duplicate Title No Duplicate Title Records Found
> Emission/Safety Inspection No Emission/Safety
> Inspection Records Found
> Livery Use No Livery Use Records Found
> Government Use No Government Use Records Found
> Police Use No Police Use Records Found
> Rental/Fleet No Rental/Fleet Records Found
> Repossessed No Repossessed Records Found
> Taxi Use No Taxi Use Records Found
> Theft No Theft Records Found
> 
> 
>   Vehicle History Records
> We have searched the Experian Automotive National
> Vehicle Database of 
> insurance, DMV, and auto auction information and
> found the following 16 
> records for this 1992 MERCEDES-BENZ 300 SERIES
> 300SD. Note the 
> highlighted rows for potential issues that could
> affect the value of 
> this vehicle.
> 
> Date Location Mileage Description
> 1992-07-08 atkinson, NH 74 title
> 1996-09-13 atkinson, NH  registration event/renewal
> 1997-09-16 atkinson, NH  registration event/renewal
> 1998-09-04 atkinson, NH  registration event/renewal
> 1999-09-07 atkinson, NH  registration event/renewal
> 2003-06-09 manchester, NH 49458 vehicle in dealer
> inventory
> 2003-06-17 new england region, 49556 reported at
> auto auction
> 2003-10-14 MA  registration event/renewal
> 2003-10-31 MA 50295 title
> 2004-02-11 live oak, FL  title
> 2004-02-11 live oak, FL  registration event/renewal
> 2004-02-11 live oak, FL  excluded/exempt
> 2004-06-01 live oak, FL  registration event/renewal
> 2004-06-01 live oak, FL  excluded/exempt
> 2005-04-15 live oak, FL  registration event/renewal
> 2005-04-15 live oak, FL  excluded/exempt
> 
> 
> Glossary of Descriptions Found for This Vehicle
> (full glossary)
> Description Full Definition
> 
> Title Vehicle had title registration event reported
> by state DMV.
> Renewal Vehicle had registration renewal event
> reported by state DMV.
> Odometer Reading from Auto Dealer Odometer reading
> was provided by an 
> independent source from an auto dealer.
> Auction Odometer Reading Vehicle reported the
> vehicle's odometer reading 
> is from auto auction.
> Excluded/Exempt Vehicle is generally exempt from
> normal/mandatory 
> odometer law for the following reasons:
> 1.Vehicle model year is 10 years or older.
> 2.Gross weight of vehicle over 16000 lbs.
> 3.Vehicle is not self-propelled.
> 4.Titled to the manufacturer.
> 
>   Highlights
> Highlights from our Editors' Review of the 1990-95
> Mercedes-Benz E-Class
> The following summary includes recall and trouble
> spot information for 
> several model years of this vehicle. Only
> information labeled "1990-95" 
> applies to this vehicle.
> 
> Consumer Guide Rating
> N/A
> 
> 
> Pros
> Antilock brakes, Steering/handling, Ride
> 
> 
> Cons
> Fuel economy, Automatic-transmission performance,
> Price
> Road Test Scores
> Performance 5
> Fuel Economy 3
> Ride Quality 7
> Steering/Handling/Braki

Re: [MBZ] 190D questions

[Tan Qu]

Curt,

If the small lever for backrest switch has broken you
probably will need a complete switch assembly or rig
up something so you can grab. Either way you may have
to take off the door panel to do it.

I think the later shifter boot may be the same as for
240D's. You have to pull the bottom down if it bothers
you. 

Assuming the setup is the same as 240D, to remove the
center console you will need to get the ashtray out
first. Then you will see two screws holding down the
center console. There maybe more screws at the other
end of the center console. 


Tan
--- Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Okay so now with a little more time heres some of
> the other issues on the 190D, Kaleb if you've got a
> w201 sitting around this might be time for you to
> get rid of some parts.
>
>   The car has electric seats which work if you
> fiddle the switch a bunch, do I have to take the
> door apart to access the switch?
>   The backrest adjustment parts of both seat
> switches have broken and so tilt isn't really
> adjustable, I looked on Rusty's site and didn't see
> 'em, anybody got a source for those?
>
>   The rear windows don't work at all from either the
> front or door switches. I haven't replaced fuses
> yet, that'll be the very next thing I do.
>
>   The antenna doesn't move and is stuck way down. It
> also seems to be missing the grommet between it and
> the fender. I imagine I'll need to at least replace
> the grommet. I don't particularly care if the
> antenna moves or not but it seems to me that if I'm
> going to go all out to make the car nice, which I
> am, then I should fix the antenna. I know there are
> sites devoted to antenna r&r, links would be
> appreciated.
>
>   The shift boot is totally wrong, its huge and the
> shifter is sort of lost in it. I see Mercedes Source
> has a booklet on how to get that console apart.
> Anybody on here like to spill the secret? The wood
> is nice in my car so I don't want to hurt it.
>
>   Thats all for the moment, more to come.
>
>   -Curt
>   '85 190D 2.2l
> 
>   
> -
>  Yahoo! Personals
>  Skip the bars and set-ups and start using Yahoo!
> Personals for free
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

Re: [MBZ] Insurance and establishing values

[Tan Qu]

Eric,

Insurance companies usually uses the NADA guides to
assess the value of a car. At least State Farm does
this way. At NADA guides website your car would be
valued at up to $8,850 that may not be true reflection
of the value for with only 87k miles. Hope this helps.


Tan

--- eric peterson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I got tagged pretty hard in the rear end of my 85
> 300CD this AM.  Car towed to the body shop will wait
> for estimates.  Pushed the Drivers rear quater panel
> past 90 degrees up to the wheel well.trunk trashed,
> rear bumper mangled, basically the whole rear corner
> is gone.  also kinked rear quarter panel on the
> other
> side up near the fuel door.  I guess it sprung the
> body enough to have a kink on that side even tho the
> impact was on drivers side.  anyway I need to
> establish value to try and talk them out of totaling
> the car.  Car is an 85 300 CD with 87K miles and is
> in
> pretty much showroom condition.  anybody have
> printouts or been keeping track of retail on these??
> 
> I have a few listings in the $10K+ range but also
> have
> some in the $4-5K range.  I really want to get the
> car
> fixed but am afraid they'll try & lowball the value
> and total it.
> 
> TIA
> 
> Eric
> 85 300 CD 87K
> 
> 
>   
>   
> __ 
> Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> 
> ___
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> 
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>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] OM602/603 Vacuum Pump "Dam" Gasket

[Tan Qu]

Rusty - I know, I know. But I try not to take too much
Rusty's time just for part inquiries. I always call
him when I am ready to order.


Tan
--- Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> "just called local MB dealership"  call someone
> else..sayuh, any suggestions ya'll?
> 
> -----Original Message-
> From: Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Nov 23, 2005 4:07 PM
> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OM602/603 Vacuum Pump "Dam"
> Gasket
> 
> Just called local MB dealership. 601-238-03-80
> ("dam")
> is not available as a separate part. The Pierburg
> pump
> cost has gone up to almost $300 now!Just a caution
> for
> anyone doing vacuum pump on Om602/603 engines -
> don't
> put the basket back in. 
> 
> Tan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luther   KB5QHU
> Alma, Ark
> '83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
> '82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
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>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] OM602/603 Vacuum Pump "Dam" Gasket

[Tan Qu]

I was not gonna say anything about the 1991 300D that
I just bought off Ebay until I sorted the things out
and have a full evaluation about the car (whether I
paid was too much). But since Marshall asked about the
reason for the gasket I may just as well fess it up.

This is the "Ft. Myers Rust" we were talking about on
the list just a week ago.? Anyhow I got whole bunch of
superized pictures of the car from the seller and
called the seller about it. Put a bid in and was
second high bid. The winning bidder backed it out and
I took the second offer. Yesterday a buddy and I went
down to Ft. Myers and picked it up. Engine seemed to
be tight and has no blowby. Wrong coolant and noise
coming from the pump area periodically - 198,000 miles
so I am thinking the pump is going out. I do have the
old pump from my '87 190DT that is in excellent
condition (replaced at about 170,000 miles). My plan
is to swap the pump to see if it address the problem.

Although having a bit rust (originally from NH), the
car seems to have been taken care of. The interior is
very clean. All the electronics work - A/C
(retrofitted to R-134a, wish it's still R-12),
windows, sunroof, clock, temp display, OEM radio (has
an Alpine CD changer hooked up but I haven't figured
it out if it works or not). Even the cruise control
works! All manuals are in the glove box with some
other documentation - I basically figured it out the
history of the car from these.

On my way back (260 miles) the suspension seemed to be
tight and it handled very well. Fuel guage needle
bounced all over the place - probably the fuel screen
is all gunked up. 

I am just hoping the IP timer curve is still in good
condition otherwise I would be out of $600 to replace
the pump and timer...

Tan
'87 190Dt
'91 300D (replacing the '82 240D)



--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Dave M. wrote:
> > I'll second that request. My engine is one of the
> rare few that
> > require the dam gasket, and they are no longer
> available for purchase
> > anywhere that I know of (but they do come with all
> new vacuum pumps -
> > go figure.) I'm fresh out of spares, so if anyone
> has extras (after
> > Tan gets one), I'm also in the market. ;-)
> > 
> > For those of you scratching your head, here's a
> photo to clear things up:
> > 
> >
>
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_misc/vac_pump_gaskets.jpg
> 
> Very few US delivered OM602/603 engines required
> them but most (maybe 
> all) US delivered OM601 engines (used in '84-'85
> 190Ds) require the dam 
> gasket.
> 
> Hard to imagine that it's not sold any more. What
> are you supposed to do 
> when you want to pull the vacuum pump to remove the
> injection pump, 
> retime the timing chain or inspect the vacuum pump?
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
> questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
> 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
> turbo 237kmi
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] OT: Green Fuels Would Damage Environment, Critics

[Tan Qu]

Since you all seem to have such a keen interest in
this subject so I will chime in as someone who lived
in China for over 20 years. Human manure has always
been considered as an organic fertilizer and has been
used all along until in 1980's when the industrial
fertilizers were allowed to be imported to China. It
does pose as a health risk particularlly in southern
part of China (warm climate). A lot of people got
hepitatis through eating vegetables not thoroughly
cleaned. I remember one of technologies the government
boasted back then was a household septic system which
you can use the produced methanol gas for cooking and
the final waste for crop field or fish pond.

Tan
 

--- Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> wondered how composting toilets actually work - 
> never looked into them. Chinese don't really compost
> either - they just  dump SHO (straight human waste)
> into the paddies. Unless they are using  it for
> biogas, in which case they use underground
> digesters, usually.
>   
>   Chris
> 
> Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Composting
>  toilets, from what I've seen are usually a sham.
> They cook the uhh,  deposit, down to ash which is
> then technically a toxic waste...
>
>   Composting, as I'm sure you know, happens out in
> the open with air and microbes involved.
>
>   -Curt
>
>   Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2005 07:17:57 -0800 (PST)
> From: Christopher McCann 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Green Fuels Would Damage
> Environment, Critics
> To: Mercedes mailing list 
> Message-ID:
>
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
> 
> you could make biogas and, with some fiddling, use 
> it like propane in 
> a gas engine. Biogas is very widespread on a small 
> scale in India and 
> China.
>   
>   Human feces has been used in China as a fertilizer
> for 4,000 years.  
> Composting is better becuase it can kill pathogens
> if hot enough (and  
> compost done right can get quite hot).
>   
>   Also, plenty of places sell "composting toilets"
> so you don't need a 
> bucket. :-)
>   
>   And if you want crap -> diesel...mix it with the
> turkey guts in 
> Carthage.
>   
>   Chris
> 
> 
> 
>   
> -
>  Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in
> one click.  
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City,
> Missouri
> -2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
> -1987 300TD, 150K, "Rotkäppchen"
> -1985 300SD, 209K, "Wulf" 
> -1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen
> Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
> -1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
> -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck,
> Snowcaster, "One Banger"
>   
> -
>  Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in
> one click.  
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

[MBZ] OM602/603 Vacuum Pump "Dam" Gasket

[Tan Qu]

Anyone on the list has a "Dam" gasket and not going to
use it? If so, I would like to buy it. Thanks.


Tan

Re: [MBZ] Jim Cathey

[Tan Qu]

Jim,

Glad to see you back on the list. Enjoyed reading your
"Chicken wagon" and "Frankenheap" writings...


Tan

--- Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> > My transmission has a noticable leak at the front.
> I think its the pump
> > sealAnybody have recommendations ?
> 
> Well, it's not the worst job in the world to replace
> that seal.
> You have to pull the tranny, but that's a weekend
> thing.  You'd
> do the front seal as well.  I've done it on that 450
> SL that I'm
> trying to sell.
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] Got my oil sucker today

[Tan Qu]

Donald,

I had one of those Liqui-vac suckers. Be careful not
to use it when the oil is too hot. Mine collapsed and
had to exchange for a new one. It is great to service
the lawnmovers that's for sure - you don't have to
flip the thing over to get the old oil out!


Tan

--- Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I found one of the liquid-vac oil suckers on ebay
> for less than they
> sold it on their website.  I know that I can make a
> $2 topsider, but
> that would mean I would have to purchase a shop vac.
>  I thought long and
> hard about that, because I really want a shop vac,
> but decided to tell
> my wife that is what I want for Christmas.  Anyway,
> I of course, got my
> new oil sucker after I sold my MB diesel.  So, I
> guess I will have to
> figure out how to use it on my 92 Olds 98 and my
> wife's Explorer.  I can
> use it on my lawnmower, too.  
> 
>  
> 
> Now, that I can change my oil easily I think I am
> finally going to
> switch to Mobil 1.  After reading the hundreds of
> emails about Mobil 1 I
> figured I would try it.  Is the Mobil 1 10-30 just
> as good as the mobil
> 1 T & SUV?   Any thoughts? 
> 
>  
> 
> Donald H. Snook
> 
> McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 
> 
> 300 West Douglas
> 
> P.O. Box 207
> 
> Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207
> 
> Tel. (316) 263-5851
> 
> This confidential message may be subject to the
> attorney-client
> privilege or protected by the attorney work-product
> doctrine. If you
> have recieved this message in error, please delete
> it and notify me.  
> 
>  
> 
> ___
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> 
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> 

Re: [MBZ] 1995 E320 Wagon v.s. 1987 300TDT

[Tan Qu]

Lee,

Does Audi wagons come with manual transmission? That
would be a plus. I looked at some BMW stickshift wagon
and they command premiums on Ebay, not to mention the
amount of electronic stuff that makes me worry. I
guess I have been spoiled by having almost none
eletrical problems on the 2 MB diesels we currently
have. 


Tan
--- Lee Levitt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Wow. That list would certainly keep me away from the
> newer MB.
> 
> And this might be heresy on this list, but you might
> want to take a look at
> a '95-'98 Audi A6 wagon. We've got one with 110K on
> it, and in my experience
> (and that of the quattro list), there just isn't
> that much to go wrong on
> those cars. They drive beautifully, and the quattro
> system is unbeatable in
> bad weather.
> 
> You can spend less than $8K on a nice one, $4K on an
> average one.
> 
> Lee
>  
> 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
> Of Gary Thompson
> > Sent: Monday, November 14, 2005 10:13 AM
> > To: Mercedes mailing list
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1995 E320 Wagon v.s. 1987
> 300TDT
> > 
> > Tan,
> >  My take is that for the first 150Kmi or so, the
> 1995 gasser 
> > will be as reliable and economical as the older
> diesel. After 
> > that point, though, the diesel will still be going
> while the 
> > gasser will start to need a few more expensive
> repairs.
> >  Several things to look for right away on any
> 1993-1995 M104 
> > motor Mercedes:
> > - check to see if the engine wiring harness has
> been 
> > replaced. If not, you are looking at sizeable DIY
> project or 
> > an expensive repair bill in the neat future. These
> wiring 
> > harnesses have a biodegradeable insulation that,
> under the 
> > extreme temperatures of the engine bay, have been
> known to 
> > degrade much ahead of plan. Last I looked, the
> engine wiring 
> > alone went over $800 retail.
> > Plan on at least 6 hours for the typical DIYer.
> >  - check and make sure the air conditioner blows
> cold. Make 
> > sure someone hasn't just topped off the
> refrigerant in order 
> > to sell the car. At least
> > 1994-1995 cars had aluminum evaporators that are
> prone to 
> > springing leaks.
> > While an evaporator isn't too expensive (about
> $200), I've 
> > been quoted anywhere from 13 to 16 hours of labor
> to gut the 
> > interior in order to replace the evaporator. I
> know of 
> > several dedicated DIYers who have attempted this
> on their 
> > own, but only one has said he would do it again...
> >  - The early 104 motors tended to have issues with
> oil leaks 
> > from the head gaskets. Check this out closely.
> Options are to 
> > live with the leaks (for
> > awhile) or pull the head and replace the head
> gasket.
> >  - I've been having ignition issues lately on
> mine. Seems to 
> > miss some at idle, and hesitate on acceleration
> every now and 
> > then. The more research I do, the more I hear of
> this being 
> > common with the early HFM system used starting
> with the M104 
> > in 1993. Most of these issues are related to the
> wiring 
> > harness mentioned above, but in some cases the bad
> wiring has 
> > caused sensors to fail prematurely as well, and it
> can take 
> > some time to get it all sorted out.
> >  Scared you yet? If you have access to any service
> history 
> > and do your homework, it's not nearly as bad as it
> sounds. 
> > Many wiring harnesses and head gaskets have
> already been 
> > replaced. I simply love the feel of the W124
> chassis, and the 
> > M104 motor is just enough to make it a joy to
> drive (though 
> > I'd gladly trade for Dave M's E500).
> >  I've heard a number of people claim if you plan
> on more than 
> > 20kmi per year, the deisel is the way to go. Under
> that, it's 
> > personal preference. I'd kinda agree with that
> statement.
> >   Gary Thompson
> > 1995 E320
> > 1984 300D (sold)
> > 
> > 
> >  On 11/14/05, Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > >
> > > There is a 1995 E320 wagon at an european car
> lot not far 
> > from where I 
> > > work - 80,000 miles, immaculate condition,
> asking for $10,500.
> > >
> > > How does it compare to the 1987 300TDT wagon -
> longevity and 
> > > maintenance wise? I know the fuel mileage on the
> E320 is lower than 
> > > the diesel wagon.
> >

Re: [MBZ] 1995 E320 Wagon v.s. 1987 300TDT

[Tan Qu]

Gary,

Thanks for the information. Although my commute now is
not as far as it used to be, somehow I still rack up
25k miles a year. From what you described, the gas
wagon probably will be out of my conformt zone to
own... 


Tan


--- Gary Thompson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Tan,
>  My take is that for the first 150Kmi or so, the
> 1995 gasser will be as
> reliable and economical as the older diesel. After
> that point, though, the
> diesel will still be going while the gasser will
> start to need a few more
> expensive repairs.
>  Several things to look for right away on any
> 1993-1995 M104 motor Mercedes:
> - check to see if the engine wiring harness has been
> replaced. If not, you
> are looking at sizeable DIY project or an expensive
> repair bill in the neat
> future. These wiring harnesses have a biodegradeable
> insulation that, under
> the extreme temperatures of the engine bay, have
> been known to degrade much
> ahead of plan. Last I looked, the engine wiring
> alone went over $800 retail.
> Plan on at least 6 hours for the typical DIYer.
>  - check and make sure the air conditioner blows
> cold. Make sure someone
> hasn't just topped off the refrigerant in order to
> sell the car. At least
> 1994-1995 cars had aluminum evaporators that are
> prone to springing leaks.
> While an evaporator isn't too expensive (about
> $200), I've been quoted
> anywhere from 13 to 16 hours of labor to gut the
> interior in order to
> replace the evaporator. I know of several dedicated
> DIYers who have
> attempted this on their own, but only one has said
> he would do it again...
>  - The early 104 motors tended to have issues with
> oil leaks from the head
> gaskets. Check this out closely. Options are to live
> with the leaks (for
> awhile) or pull the head and replace the head
> gasket.
>  - I've been having ignition issues lately on mine.
> Seems to miss some at
> idle, and hesitate on acceleration every now and
> then. The more research I
> do, the more I hear of this being common with the
> early HFM system used
> starting with the M104 in 1993. Most of these issues
> are related to the
> wiring harness mentioned above, but in some cases
> the bad wiring has caused
> sensors to fail prematurely as well, and it can take
> some time to get it all
> sorted out.
>  Scared you yet? If you have access to any service
> history and do your
> homework, it's not nearly as bad as it sounds. Many
> wiring harnesses and
> head gaskets have already been replaced. I simply
> love the feel of the W124
> chassis, and the M104 motor is just enough to make
> it a joy to drive (though
> I'd gladly trade for Dave M's E500).
>  I've heard a number of people claim if you plan on
> more than 20kmi per
> year, the deisel is the way to go. Under that, it's
> personal preference. I'd
> kinda agree with that statement.
>   Gary Thompson
> 1995 E320
> 1984 300D (sold)
> 
> 
>  On 11/14/05, Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > There is a 1995 E320 wagon at an european car lot
> not
> > far from where I work - 80,000 miles, immaculate
> > condition, asking for $10,500.
> >
> > How does it compare to the 1987 300TDT wagon -
> > longevity and maintenance wise? I know the fuel
> > mileage on the E320 is lower than the diesel
> wagon.
> > The E320 certainly has whole lot more electrical
> junks
> > which I assume will cost more to keep up. Any
> known
> > big ticket items?
> >
> > Just curious and would like to hear back from the
> E320
> > or gas MB owners...
> >
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

[MBZ] 1995 E320 Wagon v.s. 1987 300TDT

[Tan Qu]

There is a 1995 E320 wagon at an european car lot not
far from where I work - 80,000 miles, immaculate
condition, asking for $10,500.

How does it compare to the 1987 300TDT wagon -
longevity and maintenance wise? I know the fuel
mileage on the E320 is lower than the diesel wagon.
The E320 certainly has whole lot more electrical junks
which I assume will cost more to keep up. Any known
big ticket items? 

Just curious and would like to hear back from the E320
or gas MB owners...


Tan

Re: [MBZ] Craig's List Nashville 190D

[Tan Qu]

I think we are talking about two different cars. The
one I bid on was located at Daytona Beach, FL.


Tan

--- TimothyPilgrim <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Let me guess, a 190D that Tan was bidding on and
> lost by $100?
> 
> Tim
> 1982 300TD Moby
> 
> On 11/12/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > no, the good deals dont last long.  Y'all dont
> even want to know about
> > the steal deal I just brought home.
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

Re: [MBZ] cheap 190D, its runs grate

[Tan Qu]

Sorry about that. I lost bid on that one, only by less
than $100. Whoever won it got a good deal. 

Tan

--- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> if you give me the vin, and no, Im not going to the
> auction, Im too lazy
> 
> Tan Qu wrote:
> 
> > Kaleb,
> > 
> > Can you pull the Carfax record on this "runs
> grate"
> > 190D? It is only 20 miles from me. Thanks.
> > 
> > 
> > Tan
> > 
> > --- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/190D-Mercedes-Benz-1988_W0QQitemZ4586768380QQcategoryZ6328QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> > 
> >>-- 
> >>Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> >>  89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
> >>  84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81
> 240D,
> >>  76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> >>Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
> >>
> >>___
> >>For new parts see official list sponsor:
> >>http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >>
> >>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >>
> > 
> >
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
>   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

Re: [MBZ] Craig's List Nashville 190D

[Tan Qu]

The W201 diesels in good conditions are hard to find
come by. I just lost on bidding one (1988 190D)
located only 20 miles from me. That was almost one
owner car (seller's grandpa bought new in 1988). I am
looking for one to replace my unfortunate '82 240D
that people here seem to like to run into it but
haven't had much luck getting one yet!


Tan

--- Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Jeepers folks, that's a gen-yoo-wine rare find, and
> a killer price as
> well!  Hope someone near there nabs it up, and
> quick.  I wouldn't
> think twice about picking that thing up, and right
> now--seriously.
> 
> 
> Casey
> Olympia, WA
> Biodiesel:
> '87 300TD intercooler (210k)
> '84 300D (205k)
> Gashuffer:
> '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (186K)
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

Re: [MBZ] valve adjust & EGR awfullness

[Tan Qu]

Does this kit also fit the OM602 engines? If yes I
need one for sure and maybe two depending on whether I
may buy another OM60X powered.

Tan

--- Ron Dwelle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I bought two kits from him earlier. Good kits.
> 
> Ron Dwelle
> 
> On Nov 11, 2005, at 10:12 AM, Harry Watkins wrote:
> 
> Chris
> 
> A guy at this site will make up EGR blocking kits if
> we come up with a  
> 30+
> order.
> 
> They will be $29.  I just put myself down for two
> and we should be  
> getting
> close to the 30 needed.
> 
> Harry Watkins
> Newton, MS
> 86 SDL Silver
> 85 300D Euro
> 86 SDL Gold
> 81 240D manual trans
>
http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php3?
> 
> p=1010792&posted=1#post1010792
> 
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

Re: [MBZ] cheap 190D, its runs grate

[Tan Qu]

Ed,

You are looking at this thing as well?

--- Ed Booher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> No! Tan Qu!
> 
> On 11/11/05, Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Kaleb,
> >
> > Can you pull the Carfax record on this "runs
> grate"
> > 190D? It is only 20 miles from me. Thanks.
> >
> >
> > Tan
> 
> Oh God, I just couldn't resist!
> 
> --
> Knowledge is power... Power Corrupts. Study hard...
> Be Evil.
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

Re: [MBZ] cheap 190D, its runs grate

[Tan Qu]

Kaleb,

Can you pull the Carfax record on this "runs grate"
190D? It is only 20 miles from me. Thanks.


Tan

--- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/190D-Mercedes-Benz-1988_W0QQitemZ4586768380QQcategoryZ6328QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
>   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

Re: [MBZ] Ft. Myers Beach rust

[Tan Qu]

If I can use it for at least two years it might not be
a bad deal. I will make another call tomorrow to get a
little information. Thanks for the caution.


Tan

--- BillR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> 
> Thanks a million, Kaleb! It looks like it have spent
> most of life in North before coming to Florida just
> last year... It is hard to find any of these cars in
> good condition anymore. For anyone who is
> interested,
> this car is on Ebay, item # 4587662970.
> 
> I might bid on it if it is still below $2500. 
> Tan 
> 
> Tan - If you are not familiar with Ft. Myers Beach,
> it is a lovely place
> [except for 'in-season' when it can take an hour to
> go just a few blocks]
> but it is a narrow isle and it is not possible to
> get more than a few
> hundred feet from the water.  I would be very
> careful with the rust issue,
> though if it has not been there but a year and 3 - 4
> hurricanes it might be
> usable :-).
> BillR
> Jacksonville  FL  904-737-2855   cell 904-707-0404
> 1981 300SD  EM  265K / 200K engine
> 2001  I 30  'Hers'  71K
> 1996 Sentra  255K / @ 90K engine [one of the kids
> has it borrowed long-term]
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

Re: [MBZ] Carfax Help

[Tan Qu]

Bob,

Did you happen to have already checked the car out? 


Tan

--- Bob DuPuy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I'm always looking, but I won't be bidding this
> time.
>  Bob DuPuy
> 
>  On 11/9/05, Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Bob,
> >
> > Are you looking at the same car? It's in your neck
> of
> > woods.
> >
> > Tan
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- Bob DuPuy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > > Ft Myers Beach How many hurricances have
> gone
> > > through there the last
> > > couple years? Salt water sure makes those rust
> > > bubbles bloom.
> > > Bob DuPuy
> > > Parrish, FL
> > >
> >
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

Re: [MBZ] Carfax Help

[Tan Qu]

Thanks a million, Kaleb! It looks like it have spent
most of life in North before coming to Florida just
last year... It is hard to find any of these cars in
good condition anymore. For anyone who is interested,
this car is on Ebay, item # 4587662970.

I might bid on it if it is still below $2500. 



Tan 

--- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Vehicle Snapshot
> Vehicle 1991 Mercedes-Benz 300 Series 300D-T
> VIN WDBEB28D8MB417104
> Body Style 4 Door Sedan
> Country of Manufacture Germany
> 
> 
> Vehicle History Checklist
> Vehicle Description WDBEB28D8MB417104
> Title Check No records found
> Problem Check Records found
> Odometer Check No records found
> Vehicle Information No records found
> Full History Records found
> 
>   Title Check
> Your vehicle checks out!
> 
> Abandoned No Abandoned Records Found
> Damaged No Damaged Records Found
> Fire Damage No Fire Damage Records Found
> Grey Market No Grey Market Records Found
> Hail Damage No Hail Damage Records Found
> Insurance Loss No Insurance Loss Records Found
> Junk No Junk Records Found
> Rebuilt/Rebuildable No Rebuilt/Rebuildable Records
> Found
> Salvage No Salvage Records Found
> 
> 
>   Problem Check
> Problems Found!
> 
> NHTSA Crash Test Vehicle No NHTSA Crash Test Vehicle
> Records Found
> Fire Damage Incident No Fire Damage Incident Records
> Found
> Frame Damage No Frame Damage Records Found
> Major Damage No Major Damage Records Found
> Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon No Manufacturer
> Buyback/Lemon Records Found
> Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon No Manufacturer
> Buyback/Lemon Records Found
> Odometer Problem Odometer Problem Records Found
> Salvage Auction No Salvage Auction Records Found
> Water Damage No Water Damage Records Found
> 
> 
>   Vehicle Information
> Your vehicle checks out!
> 
> Accident Data No Accident Data Records Found
> Corrected Title No Corrected Title Records Found
> Driver Education No Driver Education Records Found
> Duplicate Title No Duplicate Title Records Found
> Emission/Safety Inspection No Emission/Safety
> Inspection Records Found
> Livery Use No Livery Use Records Found
> Government Use No Government Use Records Found
> Police Use No Police Use Records Found
> Rental/Fleet No Rental/Fleet Records Found
> Repossessed No Repossessed Records Found
> Taxi Use No Taxi Use Records Found
> Theft No Theft Records Found
> 
> 
>   Vehicle History Records
> We have searched the Experian Automotive National
> Vehicle Database of 
> insurance, DMV, and auto auction information and
> found the following 16 
> records for this 1991 MERCEDES-BENZ 300 SERIES
> 300D-T. Note the 
> highlighted rows for potential issues that could
> affect the value of 
> this vehicle.
> 
> Date Location Mileage Description
> 1995-11-21 belleville, IL  registration
> event/renewal
> 1996-06-19 center harbor, NH  registration
> event/renewal
> 1996-06-21 center harbor, NH 70300 title
> 1996-12-27 center harbor, NH  registration
> event/renewal
> 1997-11-03 center harbor, NH  registration
> event/renewal
> 1998-10-30 center harbor, NH  registration
> event/renewal
> 1998-11-04 center harbor, NH 104078 title
> 1998-11-04 center harbor, NH  exceeds mechanical
> limits
> 1999-05-28 center harbor, NH  registration
> event/renewal
> 2000-06-05 center harbor, NH  registration
> event/renewal
> 2003-05-22 meredith, NH  registration event/renewal
> 2004-06-01 fort myers beach, FL  title
> 2004-06-01 fort myers beach, FL  registration
> event/renewal
> 2004-06-01 fort myers beach, FL  excluded/exempt
> 2004-10-07 fort myers beach, FL  registration
> event/renewal
> 2004-10-07 fort myers beach, FL  excluded/exempt
> 
> 
> Glossary of Descriptions Found for This Vehicle
> (full glossary)
> Description Full Definition
> 
> Renewal Vehicle had registration renewal event
> reported by state DMV.
> Title Vehicle had title registration event reported
> by state DMV.
> Odometer Exceeds Mechanical Limits Actual mileage is
> greater than 
> odometer allows to be recorded.
> Excluded/Exempt Vehicle is generally exempt from
> normal/mandatory 
> odometer law for the following reasons:
> 1.Vehicle model year is 10 years or older.
> 2.Gross weight of vehicle over 16000 lbs.
> 3.Vehicle is not self-propelled.
> 4.Titled to the manufacturer.
> 
>   Highlights
> Highlights from our Editors' Review of the 1990-95
> Mercedes-Benz E-Class
> The following summary includes recall and trouble
> spot information for 
> several model years of this vehicle. Only
> information labeled "1990-95" 
> applies to this vehicle.
> 
> Consumer Guide Rating
> N/A
> 
> 
> Pros
> Antilock brakes, Steering/handling, Ride
> 
> 
> Cons
> Fuel economy, Automatic-transmission performance,
> Price
> Road Test Scores
> Performance 5
> Fuel Economy 3
> Ride Quality 7
> Steering/Handling/Braking 6
> Quietness 6
> Controls/Materials 6
> Interior Room 6
> Room/Comfort (rear) 4
> Cargo Capacity 4
> Value within Class 5
> (all scores out of 10)
> 
> NHTSA Safety Ratings
> N/A
> (all scores out 

Re: [MBZ] Carfax Help

[Tan Qu]

Bob, 

Are you looking at the same car? It's in your neck of
woods. 

Tan 




--- Bob DuPuy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Ft Myers Beach How many hurricances have gone
> through there the last
> couple years? Salt water sure makes those rust
> bubbles bloom.
>  Bob DuPuy
> Parrish, FL
> 
>  On 11/9/05, Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Kaleb,
> >
> > Can you kindly pull a carfax check on a 1991 300D
> 2.5
> > ? VIN is WDBEB28D8MB417104. Thanks
> >
> >
> > Tan
> >
> > ___
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[MBZ] Carfax Help

[Tan Qu]

Kaleb,

Can you kindly pull a carfax check on a 1991 300D 2.5
? VIN is WDBEB28D8MB417104. Thanks


Tan

Re: [MBZ] W124 Wagon Window Glass

[Tan Qu]

Thanks John for the part information. I think his luck
would have to lie on those gas models which may come
to the junk yard earlier than the diesel models.


Tan
--- John Ervine <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Marshall Booth wrote:
> 
> > Whoa. I looked and the doors were clearly
> different, but the moving part 
> > of the glass window MIGHT NOT BE! You need to get
> someone with a working 
> > EPC to check part numbers.
> > 
> > SORRY.
> 
> I took a quick cursory glance, and the windows are
> indeed different from wagons 
> to sedans.  The right rear window is 124 730 08 18. 
> Cross referencing that part 
> number to model application, I get only wagon
> results - 300TE, 300TD, and the 
> 300TE 4-matic.
> 
> -- 
> John L. Ervine
> 1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
> 1980 300TD 170+kmi
> 1980 300SD 277+kmi
> 1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
> 
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Wagon Window Glass

[Tan Qu]

I'd like to get on the map, can you add photos later?

Tan

--- Rick Knoble <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> > Paging Joe Knight and Dave M... Haven't seen them
> > posting anything on the list lately.
> > 
> > Tan
> 
> And we don't see you on the map.
> http://www.frappr.com/benzbunch
> 
> Rick Knoble
> 1985 300 CD
> 
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> 

Re: [MBZ] W124 Wagon Window Glass

[Tan Qu]

Paging Joe Knight and Dave M... Haven't seen them
posting anything on the list lately.

Tan


 

--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Marshall Booth wrote:
> > Tan Qu wrote:
> >> It seemed someone took the Halloween too far here
> in
> >> Florida. Someone drove around over the Saturday
> night
> >> and shot at peope cars with BB guns and somewhere
> 95
> >> cars were vandalized. My friend's '87 300TDT
> wagon was
> >> one of the victims. He lost his rear right
> passenger
> >> window glass.
> >>
> >> Does anyone know if the rear window glass on the
> wagon
> >> is different from the sedans? Any sources that he
> can
> >> start calling around?
> > 
> > The rear door windows in sedans and wagons are
> different. You will need 
> > a window from a wagon. I believe they are all the
> same from '87 thru '95 
> > but I'm not absolutely sure.
> > 
> > Will be covered by comprehensive insurance (less
> the deductible) in most 
> > states. Any window shop can get one for you and
> install it (so can ANY 
> > body shop that does Mercedes routinely). Used ones
> will be hard to find 
> > as the number of 124 wagons imported to the US
> (compared to sedans) was 
> > small and most are still on the road.
> > 
> > Marshall
> 
> Whoa. I looked and the doors were clearly different,
> but the moving part 
> of the glass window MIGHT NOT BE! You need to get
> someone with a working 
> EPC to check part numbers.
> 
> SORRY.
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
> questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
> 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
> turbo 237kmi
> 
> ___
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> 

Re: [MBZ] W124 Wagon Window Glass

[Tan Qu]

Marshall,

Do they still make glass for the vintage cars like
this? Maybe by PPG?

Tan

--- Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Tan Qu wrote:
> > It seemed someone took the Halloween too far here
> in
> > Florida. Someone drove around over the Saturday
> night
> > and shot at peope cars with BB guns and somewhere
> 95
> > cars were vandalized. My friend's '87 300TDT wagon
> was
> > one of the victims. He lost his rear right
> passenger
> > window glass.
> > 
> > Does anyone know if the rear window glass on the
> wagon
> > is different from the sedans? Any sources that he
> can
> > start calling around?
> 
> The rear door windows in sedans and wagons are
> different. You will need 
> a window from a wagon. I believe they are all the
> same from '87 thru '95 
> but I'm not absolutely sure.
> 
> Will be covered by comprehensive insurance (less the
> deductible) in most 
> states. Any window shop can get one for you and
> install it (so can ANY 
> body shop that does Mercedes routinely). Used ones
> will be hard to find 
> as the number of 124 wagons imported to the US
> (compared to sedans) was 
> small and most are still on the road.
> 
> Marshall
> -- 
> Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned
> questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0
> 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
> turbo 237kmi
> 
> ___
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> 
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> 

Re: [MBZ] W124 Wagon Window Glass

[Tan Qu]

Yes. The rear door window, the moving portion (not the
fixed triangular glass).

Tan

--- TimothyPilgrim <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> When you say rear window, are you talking about the
> rear *door*
> window? Because I doubt that the glass of the
> wagon's tailgate is
> anywhere close to similar to the rearview window on
> a sedan.
> 
> Tim
> 1982 300TD Moby
> 
> On 11/7/05, Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > It seemed someone took the Halloween too far here
> in
> > Florida. Someone drove around over the Saturday
> night
> > and shot at peope cars with BB guns and somewhere
> 95
> > cars were vandalized. My friend's '87 300TDT wagon
> was
> > one of the victims. He lost his rear right
> passenger
> > window glass.
> >
> > Does anyone know if the rear window glass on the
> wagon
> > is different from the sedans? Any sources that he
> can
> > start calling around?
> >
> >
> > Tan
> > '87 190Dt
> > '82 240D
> >
> >
> > ___
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
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> >
> 
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> 
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> 

[MBZ] W124 Wagon Window Glass

[Tan Qu]

It seemed someone took the Halloween too far here in
Florida. Someone drove around over the Saturday night
and shot at peope cars with BB guns and somewhere 95
cars were vandalized. My friend's '87 300TDT wagon was
one of the victims. He lost his rear right passenger
window glass.

Does anyone know if the rear window glass on the wagon
is different from the sedans? Any sources that he can
start calling around?


Tan 
'87 190Dt
'82 240D

Re: [MBZ] '87 300TDT - water at front passenger foot well

[Tan Qu]

One of thing I did notice was that one of door hinged
was bent a little bit so when the door is closed there
is a difference between the door surface and fender -
maybe water is coming in here? 

Will tell my friend to try the rubber mat and see if
we catch anything.


Tan

--- ned kleinhenz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Tan:
> 
> One of my '95 E300D's has a similar problem. The
> leak is on the driver's
> side. And rain water seems to leak in from above.
> I have those water retaining rubber floor mats. And
> the mat is often
> retaining maybe 1/2 to 1 liter of clean water after
> a hard rain.
> I've yet to find anything wet in the car above the
> mat. This car has a
> replacement windshield. But I can never find
> evidence that the windshield
> gasket is leaking.
> 
> If you don't have the water retaining rubber mats,
> could I talk you into
> putting a cookie sheet or some type of pan on the
> floor of your car durring
> a rainy night? This may isolate the direction your
> leak is coming from. If
> it is from above, maybe then we could compare notes
> and solve this problem.
> 
> Ned Kleinhenz
> '95 E300D x2
> '85 300D
> '80 300TD
> ___
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> 
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>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] '87 300TDT - water at front passenger foot well

[Tan Qu]

One of thing I did notice was that one of door hinged
was bent a little bit so when the door is closed there
is a difference between the door surface and fender -
maybe water is coming in here? 

Will tell my friend to try the rubber mat and see if
we catch anything.


Tan

--- ned kleinhenz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Tan:
> 
> One of my '95 E300D's has a similar problem. The
> leak is on the driver's
> side. And rain water seems to leak in from above.
> I have those water retaining rubber floor mats. And
> the mat is often
> retaining maybe 1/2 to 1 liter of clean water after
> a hard rain.
> I've yet to find anything wet in the car above the
> mat. This car has a
> replacement windshield. But I can never find
> evidence that the windshield
> gasket is leaking.
> 
> If you don't have the water retaining rubber mats,
> could I talk you into
> putting a cookie sheet or some type of pan on the
> floor of your car durring
> a rainy night? This may isolate the direction your
> leak is coming from. If
> it is from above, maybe then we could compare notes
> and solve this problem.
> 
> Ned Kleinhenz
> '95 E300D x2
> '85 300D
> '80 300TD
> ___
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> 

Re: [MBZ] '87 300TDT - water at front passenger foot well

[Tan Qu]

Does W124 have drain holes in the door? That would be
at the bottom?

Tan

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> could it be the drain holes in the door could be
> clogged and the water is seeping in there ? 
> also check the door seals around the door hinges 
>  
> 69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
> 72 350SL   108,000 Miles
> 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
> 1999 Mazda Miata   
>  
>  
> -----Original Message-
> From: Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: Mercedes mailing list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Mon, 31 Oct 2005 07:03:36 -0800 (PST)
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 300TDT - water at front
> passenger foot well
> 
> 
> The water is clear water no smells of coolant. It's
> most likely rainwater (most recently hurricane
> Wilma)
> but where it is coming from baffles me - it's only
> at
> the passenger side footwell and the sheet metal
> (firewall) above the floor is dry and no signs of
> water intrusion that I can tell. 
> 
> Tan
> 
> --- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> > AC?  Heater core?  That is assuming it has not
> been
> > raining.
> > 
> > Tan Qu wrote:
> > 
> > > Hi all,
> > > 
> > > A friend of mine has a '87 300TDT. Recently he
> has
> > > noticed the carpet at front passenger footwell
> is
> > > always wet. We pulled the carpet and insulation
> up
> > and
> > > found there was water in between the
> corrugations
> > of
> > > the floorpan. Tried to soak up water with towels
> > but
> > > it returned a couple of days later. Any ideas on
> > where
> > > the water may be coming from?
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Tan
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > ___
> > > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> > http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > 
> > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > >
> >
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > 
> > -- 
> > Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
> >   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
> >   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81
> 240D,
> >   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> > Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
> > 
> > ___
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> > http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
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> > 
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
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>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] '87 300TDT - water at front passenger foot well

[Tan Qu]

Thanks Casey, we will check on that.


Tan

--- Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I had a similar problem a while back, and found that
> water intrusion
> was coming in from under the car.  I was missing one
> of the thick
> rubber pads under the jack holes.  I sealed this
> hole and the other
> plugs under there, and the water intrusion ceased.
> 
> On 10/31/05, Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > The water is clear water no smells of coolant.
> It's
> > most likely rainwater (most recently hurricane
> Wilma)
> > but where it is coming from baffles me - it's only
> at
> > the passenger side footwell and the sheet metal
> > (firewall) above the floor is dry and no signs of
> > water intrusion that I can tell.
> 
> Casey
> Olympia, WA
> Biodiesel:
> '87 300TD intercooler (210k)
> '84 300D (205k)
> Gashuffer:
> '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (186K)
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> 
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>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] '87 300TDT - water at front passenger foot well

[Tan Qu]

The water is clear water no smells of coolant. It's
most likely rainwater (most recently hurricane Wilma)
but where it is coming from baffles me - it's only at
the passenger side footwell and the sheet metal
(firewall) above the floor is dry and no signs of
water intrusion that I can tell. 

Tan

--- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> AC?  Heater core?  That is assuming it has not been
> raining.
> 
> Tan Qu wrote:
> 
> > Hi all,
> > 
> > A friend of mine has a '87 300TDT. Recently he has
> > noticed the carpet at front passenger footwell is
> > always wet. We pulled the carpet and insulation up
> and
> > found there was water in between the corrugations
> of
> > the floorpan. Tried to soak up water with towels
> but
> > it returned a couple of days later. Any ideas on
> where
> > the water may be coming from?
> > 
> > 
> > Tan
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
>   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
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>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] '87 300TDT - water at front passenger foot well

[Tan Qu]

Trampas,

A/C does not work. The Windshield is original (w/MB
star). 

Tan

--- Trampas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Is he running the AC? The other question is has the
> windshield been
> replaced?
> 
> Regards,
> Trampas 
>   
>  
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Tan Qu
> Sent: Monday, October 31, 2005 8:56 AM
> To: Mercedes mailing list
> Subject: [MBZ] '87 300TDT - water at front passenger
> foot well
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> A friend of mine has a '87 300TDT. Recently he has
> noticed the carpet at front passenger footwell is
> always wet. We pulled the carpet and insulation up
> and
> found there was water in between the corrugations of
> the floorpan. Tried to soak up water with towels but
> it returned a couple of days later. Any ideas on
> where
> the water may be coming from?
> 
> 
> Tan
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
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> 
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
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> 

Re: [MBZ] '87 300TDT - water at front passenger foot well

[Tan Qu]

That's possible - it still has the sound encapsulation
panels under the transmission and motor. But again the
A/C on that car does not work. Where is the drain for
the air inlet (for the cabin) on the W124?

Tan

--- Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Just one possibility, but try removing the carpeted
> panels from the
> transmission tunnel, then look to see if the foam
> drain tubes from the
> climate control box have become
> disintegrated--there's one on either
> side of the tunnel.
> 
> On 10/31/05, Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Hi all,
> >
> > A friend of mine has a '87 300TDT. Recently he has
> > noticed the carpet at front passenger footwell is
> > always wet. We pulled the carpet and insulation up
> and
> > found there was water in between the corrugations
> of
> > the floorpan. Tried to soak up water with towels
> but
> > it returned a couple of days later. Any ideas on
> where
> > the water may be coming from?
> 
> Casey
> Olympia, WA
> Biodiesel:
> '87 300TD intercooler (210k)
> '84 300D (205k)
> Gashuffer:
> '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (186K)
> 
> ___
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> 
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>
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> 

[MBZ] '87 300TDT - water at front passenger foot well

[Tan Qu]

Hi all,

A friend of mine has a '87 300TDT. Recently he has
noticed the carpet at front passenger footwell is
always wet. We pulled the carpet and insulation up and
found there was water in between the corrugations of
the floorpan. Tried to soak up water with towels but
it returned a couple of days later. Any ideas on where
the water may be coming from?


Tan

Re: [MBZ] ebay bidders are nuts

[Tan Qu]

$4000 may seem a lot of money for a small car like
this. But if you look at the total ownership cost (not
just the initial purchase cost) the 190D manual will
come out better than any other MB diesel's available
here in the states. Compare the 190D 5-speed to the
'87 300D - 190D 5-speed get 38mpg and 300D gets 27mpg
for average. The difference of the 11mpg over the next
100,000 miles translates to about 1,072 gallons of
diesel - at current price ($3 if you are lucky) -
$3,216. For someone who just uses the car for over 100
miles per day commuting trips that makes much sense. 

Now for someone who doesn't care about the fuel cost
and other operating cost that's totally different
story...


Tan

--- "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> The price of this little 201 diesels is insane. 
> Even before high fuel 
> prices I dont think I would pay more than about 1200
> for a nice one but 
> they seemed to sell for 2500 or more.  But 4K, thats
> stupid.  Even 
> stupid for a 2.5t.
> 
> Mitch Haley wrote:
> 
> > 1984 2.2 5sp, 168k, $4,000 and still going.
> > Isn't that the kind of money a 87 turbo would go
> for, or
> > a thousand less than a 16V?
> >
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4579815732
> > 
> > ___
> > For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >
>
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> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> -- 
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
>   85 300D,  83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts
> 
> ___
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
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>
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> 

Re: [MBZ] 240D - want to drain fuel tank - what size allen wrench?

[Tan Qu]

Like Loren said, if you can find a bolt with 22mm head
and two nuts you may be able to make a special tool
for this. Jam the two nuts on the one end, put the
bolt head (the other end) in the strainer recess. Then
you could put an open wrench on the inner nut to break
the strainer loose. May worth a try. 

Tan

--- Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I am not familiar with the 115, but i think  it is
> the same as 110.  You 
> can use a large bolt head or, as Darrell says, use a
> pipe wrench on the 
> outer edge.  My weapon of choice is large channel
> locks if I can't find a 
> big bolt head.  Once the plug is loose, the screen
> comes out with it, just 
> the same as a 123.
> 
> At 12:43 PM 7/18/2005, you wrote:
> >there is no way to use a pipe wrench...it is a huge
> >allen head screw. I measured it and it looked like
> 21
> >or 22mm. Stopped by Star Parts this morning and he
> >told me 22mm. Before I bought the tool, I thought
> I'd
> >verify with list.
> >
> >Yes, I am trying drain all the rust out (that I
> >suspect is in there) and perhaps other crud. When
> >purchased, the fuel cap was off and now the
> prefilter
> >is crudding up fast (with rust)...rather than
> changing
> >filters once a week, I thought I should strike at
> the
> >root and drain/flush.
> >
> >There is nothing down there that takes a 46mm
> wrench
> >(wish there was, that I can handle).
> >
> >I know you can drain from the fuel hose, but I
> think
> >the crud is severe enough to warrant draining
> through
> >the strainer, which I think can be removed once the
> >GIANT allen screw is out. Indy agreed that would be
> >best course of action.
> >
> >Thoughts? I might try a 22mm bolt head...but I
> would
> >prefer to have a real tool...
> >
> >Thanks,
> 
> 
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