[MBZ] 1991 350SDL - 247k miles - $7,400

2022-05-30 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
I guess if it's made it to almost 250k miles, it probably doesn't have bent 
rods.

https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/d/cincinnati-1991-mercedes-350-sdl/7490124061.html
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Vacuum pump

2020-09-23 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes
> Correct. There is a “snap switch” that reverses the pump...

By 1991 the Hella snap-switch pump was long gone, and the pump has much more
electronics in it, and a bidirectional motor/pump.  There's a pressure/vacuum 
switch
that turns off the pump once it has pumped 'enough', and there's a timer to 
stop it
if that never happens due to a leak.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Vacuum pump

2020-09-23 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
Correct. There is a “snap switch” that reverses the pump so that in one mode it 
supplies pressure (unlock) and in the other mode it supplies vacuum (lock). It 
also has a time out function if maximum pressure or vacuum isn’t met. If that 
occurs, it won’t “flip” to the other mode, making it lock and not unlock, or 
vice-versa.

We need more information. If the system is locking and unlocking, the pump is 
good. There is most likely a leak somewhere.

-D

> On Sep 23, 2020, at 8:36 AM, MG via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> If this is the same system as the one on my daughter's SD, the pump locks and 
> unlocks both the doors and the gas door. So if the doors lock and unlock then 
> the pump is not your problem.
> 
> 
> If the tubing is good then the next place to look is the air pod for the gas 
> door, or there could also be a bend in the rod that may be causing friction 
> so the pod is unable to move the rod.
> 
> 
> 
> Patrick Atuonah via Mercedes wrote:
>> Thanks to Dan for your suggestion. I managed to open the fuel door.
>> The re is no air leak anywhere in the tubing as Max mentioned. I am
>> suspecting the vacuum pump in the trunk has gone south.
>> Anyone have a good vacuum pump laying around? This model has an orthopedic
>> driver's seat.
>> PM me if you have one.
>> Thanks for your help
>> Patrick
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Vacuum pump

2020-09-23 Thread Meade Dillon via Mercedes
This is a model that can produce both vacuum and pressure:  Mityvac MV8510
Silverline Elite Hand Pump.  Looks like they are about $60 on Amazon, you
may be able to find it sold locally and get it today.  Make sure you get
one with the switch so you can test both vacuum and pressure.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 9:00 AM Max Dillon  wrote:

> I agree with Manfred.  Did you test the circuit for the fuel door with a
> MityVac or a similar tool?
>
> Isn't the pump on this car a dual action pump, which produces either
> vacuum or pressure as required?  That is how my '87 124 wagon works, as
> well as my younger 124 cars.  If that is true, then you need to test that
> circuit (tubing and pod at the fuel door) using both vacuum and pressure,
> because it may leak for one but not the other.  MityVac does that.
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
>
> Sep 23, 2020 8:37:59 AM MG via Mercedes :
>
> > If this is the same system as the one on my daughter's SD, the pump
> locks and unlocks both the doors and the gas door. So if the doors lock and
> unlock then the pump is not your problem.
> >
> > If the tubing is good then the next place to look is the air pod for the
> gas door, or there could also be a bend in the rod that may be causing
> friction so the pod is unable to move the rod.
> >
> > Patrick Atuonah via Mercedes wrote:
> >> Thanks to Dan for your suggestion. I managed to open the fuel door.
> >> The re is no air leak anywhere in the tubing as Max mentioned. I am
> >> suspecting the vacuum pump in the trunk has gone south.
> >> Anyone have a good vacuum pump laying around? This model has an
> orthopedic
> >> driver's seat.
> >> PM me if you have one.
> >> Thanks for your help
> >> Patrick
> >> ___
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> >>
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> >
>
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Vacuum pump

2020-09-23 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
I agree with Manfred.  Did you test the circuit for the fuel door with a 
MityVac or a similar tool?

Isn't the pump on this car a dual action pump, which produces either vacuum or 
pressure as required?  That is how my '87 124 wagon works, as well as my 
younger 124 cars.  If that is true, then you need to test that circuit (tubing 
and pod at the fuel door) using both vacuum and pressure, because it may leak 
for one but not the other.  MityVac does that.
Max Dillon
Charleston SC

Sep 23, 2020 8:37:59 AM MG via Mercedes :

> If this is the same system as the one on my daughter's SD, the pump locks and 
> unlocks both the doors and the gas door. So if the doors lock and unlock then 
> the pump is not your problem.
> 
> If the tubing is good then the next place to look is the air pod for the gas 
> door, or there could also be a bend in the rod that may be causing friction 
> so the pod is unable to move the rod.
> 
> Patrick Atuonah via Mercedes wrote:
>> Thanks to Dan for your suggestion. I managed to open the fuel door.
>> The re is no air leak anywhere in the tubing as Max mentioned. I am
>> suspecting the vacuum pump in the trunk has gone south.
>> Anyone have a good vacuum pump laying around? This model has an orthopedic
>> driver's seat.
>> PM me if you have one.
>> Thanks for your help
>> Patrick
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>> 
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Vacuum pump

2020-09-23 Thread MG via Mercedes
If this is the same system as the one on my daughter's SD, the 
pump locks and unlocks both the doors and the gas door. So if the 
doors lock and unlock then the pump is not your problem.



If the tubing is good then the next place to look is the air pod 
for the gas door, or there could also be a bend in the rod that 
may be causing friction so the pod is unable to move the rod.




Patrick Atuonah via Mercedes wrote:

Thanks to Dan for your suggestion. I managed to open the fuel door.

The re is no air leak anywhere in the tubing as Max mentioned. I am
suspecting the vacuum pump in the trunk has gone south.

Anyone have a good vacuum pump laying around? This model has an orthopedic
driver's seat.
PM me if you have one.

Thanks for your help

Patrick
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Vacuum pump

2020-09-23 Thread Patrick Atuonah via Mercedes
Thanks to Dan for your suggestion. I managed to open the fuel door.

The re is no air leak anywhere in the tubing as Max mentioned. I am
suspecting the vacuum pump in the trunk has gone south.

Anyone have a good vacuum pump laying around? This model has an orthopedic
driver's seat.
PM me if you have one.

Thanks for your help

Patrick
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
> Jim wrote:

> Use the other to feel the lamp.  If it's hot

But be careful.  The lamp can get painfully - or even dangerously
- hot.

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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 You can test the battery at home (at least somewhat) by watching what the 
voltage does while you crank. IIRC 10.x volts is okay anything less is a fail.
I bought a meter that plugs into the 12v outlet, it also provides 2 usb ports. 
It was useful troubleshooting the failing alternator in my '98 Jetta, it also 
confirms the preheat system is working in the ASV when attempting a cold start. 
Cheap too.
-Curt

On Thursday, January 24, 2019, 4:10:55 PM EST, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 The OP has shared offlist that the pre-glow relay was replaced back in
December IIRC.

At this point, however, given the number of less-than-qualified hands that
have been working on the car, I think it would be prudent to go back to a
thought shared earlier and assume nothing, start with fresh diagnosis.
Curt is right on this one, stop making assumptions and test / inspect
everything.

Replace the serpentine belt, ensure the tension device is working
correctly.  Ensure the belt is routed correctly - check the owner's manual
(? is the picture there?) for a picture of how it is supposed to be
routed.  I've attached a picture to this post.

Battery, even though new, needs to be load tested.  Free at FLAPS.

Start the car, measure voltage at battery terminals.  If less than 13.5
volts, determine cause.  Note that this car should have after-glow feature
in glow plug relay, so wait at least a minute or two after start up to test
the voltage.  Cause of low voltage could be bad alternator or bad harness
including the connector at the alternator.

Check cables from battery to starter and from battery to ground; corrosion
can reduce current to the point of no-start.

Check starter for tight battery cable connection (the big thick one).

Check ground strap between engine bottom and body of car.

Intermittent fault in glow plug relay draining the battery: make a
semi-permanent installation of a test light at a glow plug connection, so
the light is visible while driving the car, and if it lights up when it
shouldn't be lighting up, then you've got a bad pre-glow relay.

Check for parasitic draw as discussed ad nausea, with some test at the
battery.

If the glow plug relay is good, alternator is good, battery is good, cables
/ harnesses are good, another possibility is a weak starter.

-
Max
Charleston SC


On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 1:49 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>  I was thinking that if you left your test light on for a few minutes you
> could get past that bootup stage.
> Do you think if you used a fairly large bulb you could use brightness as
> an indicator of draw?
> If our primary thought is that the glow plug relay is at fault that would
> be a pretty hefty draw.
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
They have a diagnostic system they connect at the battery to look at charging 
voltage, starter draw, etc., etc. It prints out the results on a little built 
in thermal printer. It’s pretty cool.

-D


> On Jan 24, 2019, at 5:04 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dan Penoff via Mercedes  writes:
> 
>> I would add that most FLAPS will also test the starting/charging system for 
>> free as well.
> 
> Autozone, for one, will test an alternator for free if you remove it and
> bring it in. Not sure what they do if it's installled in the car. These
> days I'm guessing they probably rely on the OBD systems that our older
> cars don't have.
> 
> Allan
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
Dan Penoff via Mercedes  writes:

> I would add that most FLAPS will also test the starting/charging system for 
> free as well.

Autozone, for one, will test an alternator for free if you remove it and
bring it in. Not sure what they do if it's installled in the car. These
days I'm guessing they probably rely on the OBD systems that our older
cars don't have.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
I would add that most FLAPS will also test the starting/charging system for 
free as well.

-D


> On Jan 24, 2019, at 4:09 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> The OP has shared offlist that the pre-glow relay was replaced back in
> December IIRC.
> 
> At this point, however, given the number of less-than-qualified hands that
> have been working on the car, I think it would be prudent to go back to a
> thought shared earlier and assume nothing, start with fresh diagnosis.
> Curt is right on this one, stop making assumptions and test / inspect
> everything.
> 
> Replace the serpentine belt, ensure the tension device is working
> correctly.  Ensure the belt is routed correctly - check the owner's manual
> (? is the picture there?) for a picture of how it is supposed to be
> routed.  I've attached a picture to this post.
> 
> Battery, even though new, needs to be load tested.  Free at FLAPS.
> 
> Start the car, measure voltage at battery terminals.  If less than 13.5
> volts, determine cause.  Note that this car should have after-glow feature
> in glow plug relay, so wait at least a minute or two after start up to test
> the voltage.  Cause of low voltage could be bad alternator or bad harness
> including the connector at the alternator.
> 
> Check cables from battery to starter and from battery to ground; corrosion
> can reduce current to the point of no-start.
> 
> Check starter for tight battery cable connection (the big thick one).
> 
> Check ground strap between engine bottom and body of car.
> 
> Intermittent fault in glow plug relay draining the battery: make a
> semi-permanent installation of a test light at a glow plug connection, so
> the light is visible while driving the car, and if it lights up when it
> shouldn't be lighting up, then you've got a bad pre-glow relay.
> 
> Check for parasitic draw as discussed ad nausea, with some test at the
> battery.
> 
> If the glow plug relay is good, alternator is good, battery is good, cables
> / harnesses are good, another possibility is a weak starter.
> 
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
> 
> 
> On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 1:49 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> I was thinking that if you left your test light on for a few minutes you
>> could get past that bootup stage.
>> Do you think if you used a fairly large bulb you could use brightness as
>> an indicator of draw?
>> If our primary thought is that the glow plug relay is at fault that would
>> be a pretty hefty draw.
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread Meade Dillon via Mercedes
The OP has shared offlist that the pre-glow relay was replaced back in
December IIRC.

At this point, however, given the number of less-than-qualified hands that
have been working on the car, I think it would be prudent to go back to a
thought shared earlier and assume nothing, start with fresh diagnosis.
Curt is right on this one, stop making assumptions and test / inspect
everything.

Replace the serpentine belt, ensure the tension device is working
correctly.  Ensure the belt is routed correctly - check the owner's manual
(? is the picture there?) for a picture of how it is supposed to be
routed.  I've attached a picture to this post.

Battery, even though new, needs to be load tested.  Free at FLAPS.

Start the car, measure voltage at battery terminals.  If less than 13.5
volts, determine cause.  Note that this car should have after-glow feature
in glow plug relay, so wait at least a minute or two after start up to test
the voltage.  Cause of low voltage could be bad alternator or bad harness
including the connector at the alternator.

Check cables from battery to starter and from battery to ground; corrosion
can reduce current to the point of no-start.

Check starter for tight battery cable connection (the big thick one).

Check ground strap between engine bottom and body of car.

Intermittent fault in glow plug relay draining the battery: make a
semi-permanent installation of a test light at a glow plug connection, so
the light is visible while driving the car, and if it lights up when it
shouldn't be lighting up, then you've got a bad pre-glow relay.

Check for parasitic draw as discussed ad nausea, with some test at the
battery.

If the glow plug relay is good, alternator is good, battery is good, cables
/ harnesses are good, another possibility is a weak starter.

-
Max
Charleston SC


On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 1:49 PM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>  I was thinking that if you left your test light on for a few minutes you
> could get past that bootup stage.
> Do you think if you used a fairly large bulb you could use brightness as
> an indicator of draw?
> If our primary thought is that the glow plug relay is at fault that would
> be a pretty hefty draw.
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes
There is no need to monitor brightness, if there's any light at all you have a 
problem.
And it sucks to destroy a tool that you're using, no matter how cheap it was.  
Then
you need a new tool, _and_ you need to fix your original problem.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
Replace the test lamp with a cheap multimeter (free from Harbor Freight
sometimes) in the current measuring mode (amps). the current value is
easier top read than how bright the bulb in the test light is. If the
current is really too high, it will fry the multimeter, but it was cheap
remember, and now you KNOW there is a large current draw somewhere that
should not be there.

On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 1:12 PM Jim Cathey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> The test lamp will be seriously impacting the voltage that the whatsit will
> be getting, enough that it might not finish initializing correctly.  I
> find it best
> not to provoke the situation.
>
> Yes, the brightness of the test lamp (and these are standard tools, cheap,
> not something you have to homebrew) tells you how much current is being
> drawn.  But the most the test lamp will allow is about 1A, and at that the
> car will basically be getting zero voltage.  Ohm's law, etc.
>
> The glow plugs being on are easy to detect with the multimeter, just see if
> the plugs are getting any voltage when they should not be.
>
> Here are the diagnostic tools I use, in descending order of importance:
>
> 1) Brain, running BSEE wetware
> 2) Multimeter (decent, e.g. Fluke)
> 3) Test lamp (cheap)
> 4) DC clamp-on ammeter
>
> -- Jim
>
>
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-- 
OK Don

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes
The test lamp will be seriously impacting the voltage that the whatsit will
be getting, enough that it might not finish initializing correctly.  I find it 
best
not to provoke the situation.

Yes, the brightness of the test lamp (and these are standard tools, cheap,
not something you have to homebrew) tells you how much current is being
drawn.  But the most the test lamp will allow is about 1A, and at that the
car will basically be getting zero voltage.  Ohm's law, etc.

The glow plugs being on are easy to detect with the multimeter, just see if
the plugs are getting any voltage when they should not be.

Here are the diagnostic tools I use, in descending order of importance:

1) Brain, running BSEE wetware
2) Multimeter (decent, e.g. Fluke)
3) Test lamp (cheap)
4) DC clamp-on ammeter

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread Rick Knoble via Mercedes
Power antennas can cause issues also, IIRC. 

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 I was thinking that if you left your test light on for a few minutes you could 
get past that bootup stage. 
Do you think if you used a fairly large bulb you could use brightness as an 
indicator of draw?
If our primary thought is that the glow plug relay is at fault that would be a 
pretty hefty draw.

-Curt

On Thursday, January 24, 2019, 10:22:36 AM EST, Jim Cathey 
 wrote:  
 
 > #1 piece of advice I can give you is to stop making any assumptions.

I concur.

> So the first step is to pull the negative battery cable, charge the battery, 
> then put a test light between the battery and the negative cable. If the 
> light is on you have parasitic draw. Until you've proven that you know 
> nothing.

That actually doesn't work very well, because several systems in the car draw
power for a period after power is restored.  'Booting up' as it were.

My preference is to loosen the negative battery clamp, place the awl of
the test lamp (or the negative probe of a multimeter set to read current)
against the center of the top post and the free wire of the test lamp (or
the multimeter's positive probe) against the outside of the clamp, then
carefully lift the clamp up so that it no longer makes contact with the
battery post, while not interrupting the circuit.  It's a bit fiddly, takes both
hands and some care.

What this does is _never_ interrupt the power supply to the car, while
still inserting the lamp/meter into the circuit.  That should give you a clean
indication of the steady-state parasitic draw on the battery.  (Or use a
sufficiently sensitive clamp-on DC ammeter, for no fuss no muss.)

I start with the lamp, if it glows there is a substantial load and you
have your answer.  If not, I then repeat using the meter instead,
so that I can get an indication of how many milliamps the various
always-on circuits draw.  Fewer is better, even a 10mA parasitic load
adds up over days and weeks.

Consider a 100AH battery.  A 100mA parasitic draw (huge) will pull the
battery down to 80%, the lowest any lead battery should ever be allowed
to get without reducing its life, after about a week.  One courtesy lamp
is around 1A of current, so they can put a serious hurt on your battery
if stuck on, even just overnight.  (Dome lamp, or glove box, etc.)

-- Jim
  
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 One other time I had my '83 240D, got to the airport a little early so I sat 
in the car and listened to the radio for awhile, then hopped out and headed for 
my flight.Just as the plane took off I realized I'd left my keys in the car 
with the radio on... Rats.
2 weeks later I got back, the car was right where I left it, I guess airport 
parking is pretty safe. I almost never locked that car anyway, by this point 
(this was my second ownership of that car, 2007 maybe?) the car was a total 
jalopy.Fortunately I'd parked right by the ramp out of the garage, that garage 
has a helix and I was on like the 6th floor with 2nd being the exit so I pushed 
it out of the parking space and got it pointed down the helix which is pretty 
steep. Got it into 3rd and cranking over but it was pretty cold out, I don't 
remember exactly but cold enough the glow plugs would have been vital. I was 
really starting to sweat it but just feet from the exit it coughed a couple 
times and fired up. It idled poorly for awhile and I think I probably ruined an 
alternator with that stunt but I did manage to drive it home...
That was a great and horrible car in equal measures.

-Curt

On Thursday, January 24, 2019, 12:49:36 PM EST, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 Curt Raymond via Mercedes  writes:

> I once had a flat battery at the airport due to an interior light left
> on. It took a long time for the service truck to put enough power back
> in for my '85 190D to start...

Similar with the '83 300D.

It was about 15 degrees, nighttime, and I knew the battery was near the
end of its life but hadn't had time to replace it. After returning from
a two day trip, got back to the aiport parking area and tried to start
the car; it gave one grunt and that was it. I suspect that even the
current draw of the clock might be enough to tip the start/no-start
balance on a marginal battery left in the cold for a few days, but on
the other hand clocks like that can run on one AA battery for months so
maybe not.

Parking service truck shows up with one of those little hand-held jump
start battery packs. I laughed and said we're going to need more than
that.

He plugged in a heavy set of cables to a socket on the front of his
F-250 and hooked them up. His engine started laboring a bit, so it
seemed current was flowing. Would not start the car immediately, but
after letting it charge for 10-15 minutes, and declining his offer of a
shot of starting fluid, it fired up.

Luckily my fuel, glow plugs and valve adjustments were all good.

Allan




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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
Curt Raymond via Mercedes  writes:

> I once had a flat battery at the airport due to an interior light left
> on. It took a long time for the service truck to put enough power back
> in for my '85 190D to start...

Similar with the '83 300D.

It was about 15 degrees, nighttime, and I knew the battery was near the
end of its life but hadn't had time to replace it. After returning from
a two day trip, got back to the aiport parking area and tried to start
the car; it gave one grunt and that was it. I suspect that even the
current draw of the clock might be enough to tip the start/no-start
balance on a marginal battery left in the cold for a few days, but on
the other hand clocks like that can run on one AA battery for months so
maybe not.

Parking service truck shows up with one of those little hand-held jump
start battery packs. I laughed and said we're going to need more than
that.

He plugged in a heavy set of cables to a socket on the front of his
F-250 and hooked them up. His engine started laboring a bit, so it
seemed current was flowing. Would not start the car immediately, but
after letting it charge for 10-15 minutes, and declining his offer of a
shot of starting fluid, it fired up.

Luckily my fuel, glow plugs and valve adjustments were all good.

Allan




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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
I once had a flat battery at the airport due to an interior light left on. It 
took a long time for the service truck to put enough power back in for my '85 
190D to start...

Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 10:27 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:  
 A serious no-start problem can be caused by something as stupid as flipping
on the rear-seat dome light switch, and forgetting to turn it off.  Depending
on where/how you park, you might not notice this.  Similarly, stuck-on glove
box or trunk lamps can be difficult to notice, but are _easy_ to detect by
hand:  Just open the relevant door and turn off the switch immediately
with one hand.  Use the other to feel the lamp.  If it's hot, which takes
some seconds to occur, then it must have been on more than the brief
flash expected during the experiment.

-- Jim

  
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes
A serious no-start problem can be caused by something as stupid as flipping
on the rear-seat dome light switch, and forgetting to turn it off.  Depending
on where/how you park, you might not notice this.  Similarly, stuck-on glove
box or trunk lamps can be difficult to notice, but are _easy_ to detect by
hand:  Just open the relevant door and turn off the switch immediately
with one hand.  Use the other to feel the lamp.  If it's hot, which takes
some seconds to occur, then it must have been on more than the brief
flash expected during the experiment.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-24 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes
> #1 piece of advice I can give you is to stop making any assumptions.

I concur.

> So the first step is to pull the negative battery cable, charge the battery, 
> then put a test light between the battery and the negative cable. If the 
> light is on you have parasitic draw. Until you've proven that you know 
> nothing.

That actually doesn't work very well, because several systems in the car draw
power for a period after power is restored.  'Booting up' as it were.

My preference is to loosen the negative battery clamp, place the awl of
the test lamp (or the negative probe of a multimeter set to read current)
against the center of the top post and the free wire of the test lamp (or
the multimeter's positive probe) against the outside of the clamp, then
carefully lift the clamp up so that it no longer makes contact with the
battery post, while not interrupting the circuit.  It's a bit fiddly, takes both
hands and some care.

What this does is _never_ interrupt the power supply to the car, while
still inserting the lamp/meter into the circuit.  That should give you a clean
indication of the steady-state parasitic draw on the battery.  (Or use a
sufficiently sensitive clamp-on DC ammeter, for no fuss no muss.)

I start with the lamp, if it glows there is a substantial load and you
have your answer.  If not, I then repeat using the meter instead,
so that I can get an indication of how many milliamps the various
always-on circuits draw.  Fewer is better, even a 10mA parasitic load
adds up over days and weeks.

Consider a 100AH battery.  A 100mA parasitic draw (huge) will pull the
battery down to 80%, the lowest any lead battery should ever be allowed
to get without reducing its life, after about a week.  One courtesy lamp
is around 1A of current, so they can put a serious hurt on your battery
if stuck on, even just overnight.  (Dome lamp, or glove box, etc.)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-23 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 Patrick,
I've spent most of my adult life troubleshooting things and the #1 piece of 
advice I can give you is to stop making any assumptions. You've already assumed 
you know there isn't a drain (you don't) and that we don't know what we're 
talking about (I didn't know about the glow plug fuse). If you keep making 
assumptions like that you won't bother to troubleshoot things and will miss an 
obvious problem. You must approach troubleshooting with an attitude of "I know 
nothing".

So the first step is to pull the negative battery cable, charge the battery, 
then put a test light between the battery and the negative cable. If the light 
is on you have parasitic draw. Until you've proven that you know nothing.
-Curt

On Wednesday, January 23, 2019, 7:26:13 PM EST, Patrick Atuonah via 
Mercedes  wrote:  
 
 One thing I am confused is that the members do not know the difference
between the early and late models.
Let me clarify from what I see on this 1991 model compared to the early
model.

No glove box. Airbag replaced it.

Glow plug egulator has no strip fuse

There is no alternator charging icon on instrument cluster, instead only
battery icon( it comes on when key is on and goes off when engine starts)

All instrument icon(glow plug, battery, brake, airbag lights  comes and
goes out when wngine fires up.

Nothing to dowith interior done, radio etc lighting..

I picked up the car from dealer today, drove it home. Parked engine off and
quickly restart and the car started but struggled (low juice, I think). I
have battery on charger, for 30 minutes and it will start the car).

There is no other electrical Gizmo draining the battery because car will
start based on battery fully charged but alternator will not load the
battery.

I will take the car to my friend's shop to follow the list of form
recommendations..

This car is great, OM603.96x with #22 head and well transplanted to this
1991 350sdl chasis, everything working perfectly when I bought it.

If you have any other thinking, I will welcome it before I go to my
friend's shop on Saturday.

Thanks
Patrick..
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[MBZ] 1991 350sdl

2019-01-23 Thread Patrick Atuonah via Mercedes
One thing I am confused is that the members do not know the difference
between the early and late models.
Let me clarify from what I see on this 1991 model compared to the early
model.

No glove box. Airbag replaced it.

Glow plug egulator has no strip fuse

There is no alternator charging icon on instrument cluster, instead only
battery icon( it comes on when key is on and goes off when engine starts)

All instrument icon(glow plug, battery, brake, airbag lights  comes and
goes out when wngine fires up.

Nothing to dowith interior done, radio etc lighting..

I picked up the car from dealer today, drove it home. Parked engine off and
quickly restart and the car started but struggled (low juice, I think). I
have battery on charger, for 30 minutes and it will start the car).

There is no other electrical Gizmo draining the battery because car will
start based on battery fully charged but alternator will not load the
battery.

I will take the car to my friend's shop to follow the list of form
recommendations..

This car is great, OM603.96x with #22 head and well transplanted to this
1991 350sdl chasis, everything working perfectly when I bought it.

If you have any other thinking, I will welcome it before I go to my
friend's shop on Saturday.

Thanks
Patrick..
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Alternator issues: Revisit.

2019-01-23 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
I have not been following this thread closely, but I seem to recall early
work on this car was an alternator replacement by a mechanic who was pretty
sloppy in his work, ie, failed to replace the drive belt which was visually
damaged to the point it should have been replaced.

My posit is: The "bad mechanic" either damaged the alternator, or damaged
the alternator wire, or wire connection plug, in such a way it is not
properly functioning. My vote would go to wire or connection damage by a
ham fisted mechanic who didn't understand Mercedes.


On Wed, Jan 23, 2019 at 6:35 AM Jim Cathey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> > I bought a China clamp meter, and for the few times I have used it, I'm
> pretty satisfied.
> >
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O1Q2HOQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
>
> Doesn't look too bad, but the 100A maximum current means you won't be able
> to
> read starter current.  Looks like it would do everything else, though.  My
> Fluke (more $$$)
> reads to 400A.
>
> This one would allow you to, in seconds, determine if an alternator was
> charging,
> whether a glow plug was bad or out of spec., whether or not there were any
> parasitic
> loads on the battery, etc.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Alternator issues: Revisit.

2019-01-23 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes
> I bought a China clamp meter, and for the few times I have used it, I'm 
> pretty satisfied.
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O1Q2HOQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

Doesn't look too bad, but the 100A maximum current means you won't be able to
read starter current.  Looks like it would do everything else, though.  My 
Fluke (more $$$)
reads to 400A.

This one would allow you to, in seconds, determine if an alternator was 
charging,
whether a glow plug was bad or out of spec., whether or not there were any 
parasitic
loads on the battery, etc.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Alternator issues: Revisit.

2019-01-22 Thread Rick Knoble via Mercedes
Jim sez:

>The third electrical tool you need for automotive work, behind a good 
>multimeter (I use Fluke) and a test lamp, is a clamp-on DC ammeter.

I bought a China clamp meter, and for the few times I have used it, I'm pretty 
satisfied. I was $10 cheaper when I bought it. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O1Q2HOQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Alternator issues: Revisit.

2019-01-22 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes
If the alternator light doesn't glow strongly when the key is on and the
engine is off, then it will not charge.

The third electrical tool you need for automotive work, behind a good
multimeter (I use Fluke) and a test lamp, is a clamp-on DC ammeter.
(These are not particularly cheap.)  For that I also use Fluke.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Alternator issues: Revisit.

2019-01-22 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
1. Glow plug relay might have intermittent fault, turns on randomly and drains 
battery.

2. Alternator harness at alternator has bad connection, won't pass enough 
current to charge the battery.

3. Battery cables are bad / corroded under the insulation, won't pass enough 
current to charge the battery.

4. Some other component like the radio or the antenna stays energized when 
ignition is off and drains the battery.  Add Opera dome light, glove box light 
to possible culprits. 
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC

On January 22, 2019 3:55:40 PM EST, Patrick Atuonah via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>Hi Listers,
>
>Thank you for your valuable advice regarding my previous post about my
>car
>mentioned above.
>
>Got response from the dealership tech.
>
>New ignition switch installed and it didn't see the charging issue.
>Whew!
>Saved me $700.
>
>I will be picking up my car Tomorrow(Wednesday)and take it to another
>shop
>owned by my friend.
>
>Now what I know:
>Alternator is brand new and good
>Battery is brand new and should be good
>Ignition switch is not the issue (original switch put back)
>No $0.00 charge for diagnosis
>
>Can any of you give me a list of what to check to figure out why no
>battery
>charging. I would appreciate the list of recommendations to take with
>me to
>the shop where I will be working on the car along with my friend and
>ask
>that we follow exactly your lists step by step.
>
>I will drive the car to the shop Saturday morning (by appointment) to
>have
>the car worked on.  You may leave ur contact privately in case we can
>call
>you.
>Thank you.
>
>Patrick.
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>
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>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Alternator issues: Revisit.

2019-01-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
It seemed like folks gave you all sorts of things to check during the last 
email tread. I would go back and read thru all those. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 22, 2019, at 2:55 PM, Patrick Atuonah via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Listers,
> 
> Thank you for your valuable advice regarding my previous post about my car
> mentioned above.
> 
> Got response from the dealership tech.
> 
> New ignition switch installed and it didn't see the charging issue. Whew!
> Saved me $700.
> 
> I will be picking up my car Tomorrow(Wednesday)and take it to another shop
> owned by my friend.
> 
> Now what I know:
> Alternator is brand new and good
> Battery is brand new and should be good
> Ignition switch is not the issue (original switch put back)
> No $0.00 charge for diagnosis
> 
> Can any of you give me a list of what to check to figure out why no battery
> charging. I would appreciate the list of recommendations to take with me to
> the shop where I will be working on the car along with my friend and ask
> that we follow exactly your lists step by step.
> 
> I will drive the car to the shop Saturday morning (by appointment) to have
> the car worked on.  You may leave ur contact privately in case we can call
> you.
> Thank you.
> 
> Patrick.
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> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


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[MBZ] 1991 350SDL Alternator issues: Revisit.

2019-01-22 Thread Patrick Atuonah via Mercedes
Hi Listers,

Thank you for your valuable advice regarding my previous post about my car
mentioned above.

Got response from the dealership tech.

New ignition switch installed and it didn't see the charging issue. Whew!
Saved me $700.

I will be picking up my car Tomorrow(Wednesday)and take it to another shop
owned by my friend.

Now what I know:
Alternator is brand new and good
Battery is brand new and should be good
Ignition switch is not the issue (original switch put back)
No $0.00 charge for diagnosis

Can any of you give me a list of what to check to figure out why no battery
charging. I would appreciate the list of recommendations to take with me to
the shop where I will be working on the car along with my friend and ask
that we follow exactly your lists step by step.

I will drive the car to the shop Saturday morning (by appointment) to have
the car worked on.  You may leave ur contact privately in case we can call
you.
Thank you.

Patrick.
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL. The end...

2014-05-23 Thread WILTON

Sigh.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Angelo Giaimo" 

To: 
Sent: Friday, May 23, 2014 3:45 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL. The end...



Well, the new owner flew to Jacksonville from Dallas, IIRC, picked up my
friend's 350 SDL and drove it back to Texas.  $6K and one happy new
owner...gone!
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL. The end...

2014-05-23 Thread Angelo Giaimo
Well, the new owner flew to Jacksonville from Dallas, IIRC, picked up my
friend's 350 SDL and drove it back to Texas.  $6K and one happy new
owner...gone!
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL knock knock knocking

2014-04-06 Thread Hendrik and Fay
I doubt a bent rod would cause engine knock but it does seem that 
someone has messed around with the fuel system.


Hendrik
who does not mess with things he knows nothing about, except women

On 03/04/14 21:42, Dan Penoff wrote:

I just asked him in the thread. Let's see what he says.

The original thread about the knocking was never closed, so it's unknown if 
there was a resolution. Knowing little about these engines, were you suggesting 
it's knocking due to a bent rod?

Thanks for catching that, Hendrik.

Dan




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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL knock

2014-04-03 Thread WILTON

My thoughts, too, on the nailing.

Wilt

- Original Message - 
From: "Dwight Giles" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2014 7:18 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL knock



Sounds more like nailing than knocking?
On Apr 3, 2014 7:13 AM, "Dan Penoff"  wrote:


I just asked him in the thread. Let's see what he says.

The original thread about the knocking was never closed, so it's unknown
if there was a resolution. Knowing little about these engines, were you
suggesting it's knocking due to a bent rod?

Thanks for catching that, Hendrik.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 3, 2014, at 12:23 AM, "WILTON"  wrote:
>
> Good point.
>
> Wilton
>
> - Original Message - From: "Hendrik and Fay" 
> 

> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2014 12:11 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL knock
>
>
>> Whilst there ask him if he got his knock sorted out?
>>
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/1947938-need-help-fixing-idle-knock-91-a.html
>>
>> Hendrik
>> who has to knock on wood
>>
>>> On 03/04/14 12:31, Dan Penoff wrote:
>>> Drop him a note and ask.
>>>
>>> Dan
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Apr 2, 2014, at 9:58 PM, WILTON wrote:
>>>>
>>>> But he doesn't say a word about the possible rod-bender engine.  I'd
love to have it if the engine has been replaced by factory crate engine.
>>>>
>>>> Wilton
>>
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>>
>> All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those
individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner
has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL knock

2014-04-03 Thread Dwight Giles
Sounds more like nailing than knocking?
On Apr 3, 2014 7:13 AM, "Dan Penoff"  wrote:

> I just asked him in the thread. Let's see what he says.
>
> The original thread about the knocking was never closed, so it's unknown
> if there was a resolution. Knowing little about these engines, were you
> suggesting it's knocking due to a bent rod?
>
> Thanks for catching that, Hendrik.
>
> Dan
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Apr 3, 2014, at 12:23 AM, "WILTON"  wrote:
> >
> > Good point.
> >
> > Wilton
> >
> > - Original Message - From: "Hendrik and Fay" 
> > To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> > Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2014 12:11 AM
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL knock
> >
> >
> >> Whilst there ask him if he got his knock sorted out?
> >>
> http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/1947938-need-help-fixing-idle-knock-91-a.html
> >>
> >> Hendrik
> >> who has to knock on wood
> >>
> >>> On 03/04/14 12:31, Dan Penoff wrote:
> >>> Drop him a note and ask.
> >>>
> >>> Dan
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> On Apr 2, 2014, at 9:58 PM, WILTON wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> But he doesn't say a word about the possible rod-bender engine.  I'd
> love to have it if the engine has been replaced by factory crate engine.
> >>>>
> >>>> Wilton
> >>
> >> ___
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL knock

2014-04-03 Thread Dan Penoff
I just asked him in the thread. Let's see what he says.

The original thread about the knocking was never closed, so it's unknown if 
there was a resolution. Knowing little about these engines, were you suggesting 
it's knocking due to a bent rod?

Thanks for catching that, Hendrik.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 3, 2014, at 12:23 AM, "WILTON"  wrote:
> 
> Good point.
> 
> Wilton
> 
> - Original Message - From: "Hendrik and Fay" 
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2014 12:11 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL knock
> 
> 
>> Whilst there ask him if he got his knock sorted out?
>> http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/1947938-need-help-fixing-idle-knock-91-a.html
>> 
>> Hendrik
>> who has to knock on wood
>> 
>>> On 03/04/14 12:31, Dan Penoff wrote:
>>> Drop him a note and ask.
>>> 
>>> Dan
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Apr 2, 2014, at 9:58 PM, WILTON wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> But he doesn't say a word about the possible rod-bender engine.  I'd love 
>>>> to have it if the engine has been replaced by factory crate engine.
>>>> 
>>>> Wilton
>> 
>> ___
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL knock

2014-04-02 Thread WILTON

Good point.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Hendrik and Fay" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2014 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL knock



Whilst there ask him if he got his knock sorted out?
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/1947938-need-help-fixing-idle-knock-91-a.html

Hendrik
who has to knock on wood

On 03/04/14 12:31, Dan Penoff wrote:

Drop him a note and ask.

Dan


On Apr 2, 2014, at 9:58 PM, WILTON wrote:

But he doesn't say a word about the possible rod-bender engine.  I'd 
love to have it if the engine has been replaced by factory crate engine.


Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL knock

2014-04-02 Thread Hendrik and Fay

Whilst there ask him if he got his knock sorted out?
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/1947938-need-help-fixing-idle-knock-91-a.html

Hendrik
who has to knock on wood

On 03/04/14 12:31, Dan Penoff wrote:

Drop him a note and ask.

Dan


On Apr 2, 2014, at 9:58 PM, WILTON wrote:


But he doesn't say a word about the possible rod-bender engine.  I'd love to 
have it if the engine has been replaced by factory crate engine.

Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2014-04-02 Thread Dan Penoff
Drop him a note and ask.

Dan


On Apr 2, 2014, at 9:58 PM, WILTON wrote:

> But he doesn't say a word about the possible rod-bender engine.  I'd love to 
> have it if the engine has been replaced by factory crate engine.
> 
> Wilton
> 
> - Original Message - From: "Dan Penoff" 
> To: "Mercedes List" 
> Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2014 8:37 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL
> 
> 
>> http://www.benzworld.org/forums/sale-wanted-trade-giveaway/1900489-f-s-91-350-sdl-md.html#post7662481
>> ___
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2014-04-02 Thread WILTON
But he doesn't say a word about the possible rod-bender engine.  I'd love to 
have it if the engine has been replaced by factory crate engine.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Penoff" 

To: "Mercedes List" 
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2014 8:37 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL



http://www.benzworld.org/forums/sale-wanted-trade-giveaway/1900489-f-s-91-350-sdl-md.html#post7662481
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[MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2014-04-02 Thread Dan Penoff
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/sale-wanted-trade-giveaway/1900489-f-s-91-350-sdl-md.html#post7662481
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-17 Thread Rich Thomas
Duh, thanks, I should have thought of that.  I did just now go through 
them and found it, with your prompting to use the tools at our disposal...

--R

wilton strickland wrote:
> Rich, I found orig email in archives; sender [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Wilton
>
>
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[MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-17 Thread wilton strickland
Rich, I found orig email in archives; sender [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Wilton


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[MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-17 Thread wilton strickland
Rich, I'm not getting the FL SDL.  You may be able to find the orig. email
in the archives from few days ago.

Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-17 Thread Rich Thomas
Are you getting that guy to send you the SDL?  If not, do you still have 
his original email?  Wifey is making noises about replacing the 
Suburban, that might be an interesting option.

--R

wilton strickland wrote:
> My snail address:
> 618 Park Ave.
> Goldsboro, NC 27530
>
> Wilton Strickland
>
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[MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-17 Thread wilton strickland
My snail address:
618 Park Ave.
Goldsboro, NC 27530

Wilton Strickland

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[MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-14 Thread wilton strickland
Snail mail address is
618 Park Ave.
Goldsboro, NC 27530

Thnx, Don

Wilton Strickland

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[MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-14 Thread wilton strickland
Re. books, coupla "In The BUFF" and several "A Carolina Country Boy
Remembers" available from me.  $20 ea. plus $5 shipping.  No movie propects
likely.
BTW, its always later than we think.  Time seems to go too fast and gets
faster as we get older.  For me now it goes like telephone poles by the
highway.

Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-13 Thread Loren Faeth
Sorry, I guess I missed something along the line!  Last I knew you 
were working on a book.  I'm not sure which one that was.  Time 
flies...  Anyway, where are the books available?   Got a movie coming 
out yet?  (only partially joking on the movie.)

Loren

At 10:00 PM 10/13/2007, you wrote:
>  Started driving in 1950; to B-52's in 1962.
>
>Which book?  "In The BUFF" finished 4 yrs ago; "A Carolina Country Boy"
>finished 2 yrs ago.
>
>Wilton
>
>
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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-13 Thread Luther - laptop
Old fart!

z

On Sat, 13 Oct 2007 22:31:14 -0500, Wonko the Sane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  
wrote:

> I got "born" in 1952 ... and I have grandchildren.   ;-)
>
> On 10/13/07, wilton strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Started driving in 1950; to B-52's in 1962.
>>
>> Which book?  "In The BUFF" finished 4 yrs ago; "A Carolina Country Boy"
>> finished 2 yrs ago.
>>
>> Wilton
>>

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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-13 Thread Gary Hurst
no updates on the Q?  anyone show up?

On 10/13/07, Wonko the Sane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I got "born" in 1952 ... and I have grandchildren.   ;-)
>
> On 10/13/07, wilton strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Started driving in 1950; to B-52's in 1962.
> >
> > Which book?  "In The BUFF" finished 4 yrs ago; "A Carolina Country Boy"
> > finished 2 yrs ago.
> >
> > Wilton
> >
> >
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>
>
> --
> LT Don
> http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
> Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.
>
> Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-13 Thread Wonko the Sane
I got "born" in 1952 ... and I have grandchildren.   ;-)

On 10/13/07, wilton strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Started driving in 1950; to B-52's in 1962.
>
> Which book?  "In The BUFF" finished 4 yrs ago; "A Carolina Country Boy"
> finished 2 yrs ago.
>
> Wilton
>
>
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http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

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[MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-13 Thread wilton strickland
'Just realized - 'cause mine still has orig. engine and 188 kmi, I "might
aughta" buy this one with replaced eng. and only 170 kmi.  But I'm leary of
cars from FL - I'v seen several with MANY more miles than claimed.  Wonder
what color, etc., it is.

Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Market Value?

2007-10-13 Thread Luther - laptop
Help me fix this wireless!

On Sat, 13 Oct 2007 22:07:09 -0500, Wonko the Sane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  
wrote:

> Get off my DSL, you leach!
>
> On 10/13/07, Luther - laptop <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Here's one on eBay.  http://tinyurl.com/2lenky
>>
>
>
>



-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (169 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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[MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-13 Thread wilton strickland
 Started driving in 1950; to B-52's in 1962.

Which book?  "In The BUFF" finished 4 yrs ago; "A Carolina Country Boy"
finished 2 yrs ago.

Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Market Value?

2007-10-13 Thread Wonko the Sane
Get off my DSL, you leach!

On 10/13/07, Luther - laptop <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Here's one on eBay.  http://tinyurl.com/2lenky
>



-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Market Value?

2007-10-13 Thread Luther - laptop
Here's one on eBay.  http://tinyurl.com/2lenky
I once saw one on a car lot locally.  Drove it.  It had LESS power than my  
'83 SD so I'm sure the engine wasn't in top shape.  They wanted around $8k  
for it and it had been on the market for 8 months.  I told them it was  
worth $2k with a most likely bad engine.  If they could show me that the  
engine was a factory replacement, it could be worth $8-12k.  Drove by a  
week or 2 later, and they jacked the price up to $12,995.  I think it sold  
a week or so later.

Luther, from IowaQ

On Sat, 13 Oct 2007 06:28:52 -0500, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>> I would go $7,000, just based on your description, fly in and drive it   
>> home.
>>  My guess is someone who is really looking for a car like this, with   
>> the
>> replacement engine, would go 12K.  Marshall will probably chime in,  
>> but  the
>> replacement engines are supposed to be free of rod problems.
>
>
> Sunil said part of what I would say. I also would have offered $3k or so,
> which means it's probably worth $5-6k to most people. If it were a W140,
> she might get as much as $10-12k. I think $7k for a W126 is an offer that
> she should strongly consider.
>
> Mitch.
>
>



-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (272,xxx mi) head case
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x58,xxx mi)
'82 300CD (169 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine

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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-13 Thread Loren Faeth
I agree the 126 is the best car ever made, and the OM 603 versions 
are the best of the best!

Jeez Wilton, you must have had several thousand hours of flying time 
in before you drove!  By my calculation you must have been flying for 
about 6-7 years at least before driving!

Inquiring minds want to know.

BTW, how is the book coming?  I want an autographed copy!

How about a rundown on the military planes you flew and the year you 
first flew each?

Loren

At 10:40 AM 10/13/2007, you wrote:
>Mine is the finest driving/riding car I'VE ever driven.  BTW, 'been driving
>for 57 yrs.
>
>Wilton
>
>
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Loren Faeth 


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[MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-13 Thread wilton strickland
What color is it?  Let's see photo.

Wilton

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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Market Value?

2007-10-13 Thread OK Don
I think that is probably the ultimate 603 engine -- the new rods,
improved head, more torque, etc. It ought to be good for a LONG time.

On 10/13/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Now I KNOW this is a tough crowd when it comes to these 3.5L
> > "rodbender"
> > engines, but is the longevity of the factory replacement engines better
> > than the originals?  What might a car like this fetch on the open
> > market?
>
> Factory replacement engines are just fine.  No special worries.
>
> -- Jim
>

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
-Benjamin Disraeli
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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[MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2007-10-13 Thread wilton strickland
Mine is the finest driving/riding car I'VE ever driven.  BTW, 'been driving
for 57 yrs.

Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Market Value?

2007-10-13 Thread Mitch Haley
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I would go $7,000, just based on your description, fly in and drive it  home.
>  My guess is someone who is really looking for a car like this, with  the
> replacement engine, would go 12K.  Marshall will probably chime in, but  the
> replacement engines are supposed to be free of rod problems.


Sunil said part of what I would say. I also would have offered $3k or so,
which means it's probably worth $5-6k to most people. If it were a W140,
she might get as much as $10-12k. I think $7k for a W126 is an offer that
she should strongly consider. 

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Market Value?

2007-10-13 Thread Jim Cathey
> Now I KNOW this is a tough crowd when it comes to these 3.5L 
> "rodbender"
> engines, but is the longevity of the factory replacement engines better
> than the originals?  What might a car like this fetch on the open 
> market?

Factory replacement engines are just fine.  No special worries.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Market Value?

2007-10-12 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 10/12/2007 8:24:31 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

My  friend in Jacksonville, Florida has her 1991 350SDL she's  considering
getting rid of.  (I think the decision is based on what  she can get for the
car;  She's considering selling it due to a family  illness and does not
need a 3'rd car.).  Purchased used from a  Mercedes dealership in 1996 with
about 70K miles with a new, factory  replacement engine.  Uses  ZERO oil
between 3K oil changes,  garaged since purchased, now with ~170K miles. .
In above average condition  and ran well  when I drove it a few months ago.

Now I KNOW this is  a tough crowd when it comes to these 3.5L "rodbender"
engines, but is the  longevity of the factory replacement engines better
than the  originals?  What might a car like this fetch on the open  market?



Angelo,
 
I would go $7,000, just based on your description, fly in and drive it  home. 
 My guess is someone who is really looking for a car like this, with  the 
replacement engine, would go 12K.  Marshall will probably chime in, but  the 
replacement engines are supposed to be free of rod problems.
 
My offer is firm  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 152 K  miles




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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Market Value?

2007-10-12 Thread Sunil Hari
I'd like to make an offer RIGHT NOW for the princely sum of $3000.

On 10/12/07, ANGELO GIAIMO <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hi again.
>
> My friend in Jacksonville, Florida has her 1991 350SDL she's considering
> getting rid of.  (I think the decision is based on what she can get for
> the
> car;  She's considering selling it due to a family illness and does not
> need a 3'rd car.).  Purchased used from a Mercedes dealership in 1996 with
> about 70K miles with a new, factory replacement engine.  Uses  ZERO oil
> between 3K oil changes, garaged since purchased, now with ~170K miles. .
> In above average condition and ran well  when I drove it a few months ago.
>
> Now I KNOW this is a tough crowd when it comes to these 3.5L "rodbender"
> engines, but is the longevity of the factory replacement engines better
> than the originals?  What might a car like this fetch on the open market?
>
> Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
> Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> (845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
> 2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533
>
>
>
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614-441-8164
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[MBZ] 1991 350SDL Market Value?

2007-10-12 Thread ANGELO GIAIMO
Hi again.

My friend in Jacksonville, Florida has her 1991 350SDL she's considering
getting rid of.  (I think the decision is based on what she can get for the
car;  She's considering selling it due to a family illness and does not
need a 3'rd car.).  Purchased used from a Mercedes dealership in 1996 with
about 70K miles with a new, factory replacement engine.  Uses  ZERO oil
between 3K oil changes, garaged since purchased, now with ~170K miles. .
In above average condition and ran well  when I drove it a few months ago.

Now I KNOW this is a tough crowd when it comes to these 3.5L "rodbender"
engines, but is the longevity of the factory replacement engines better
than the originals?  What might a car like this fetch on the open market?

Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(845)894-4296 (tie 533); fax: 892-6235 (tie 532);
2070 Rt. 52; Hopewell Junction, N.Y. 12533



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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL Tranny

2007-05-24 Thread ANGELO GIAIMO
Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Wrote:

>WIlton,
>
>I think I missed something.  Why is your trans pronounced dead?  You
>said there is a delay in shifting into reverse.  TO me that is
>normal, at least for trans with 100k to 200k or more.  You also said
>that sometimes you need to rev the engine a little to get the shift
>into reverse.  I've had that condition too, for years without a
>failure.  A little frustrating, but no cause to spend 2-3k dollars
>that I can see.

Wilton,

Mine started doing the same at least 50,000 miles ago.  I put mine in
reverse, wait a few seconds then slowly goose the gas petal and back up.
(If I just depress the petal, it slams HARD into reverse)  In below-zero
weather, which I KNOW you don't have in Jacksonville!  (Father in law is
retired navy living in Atlantic Beach) sometimes it slips going forward
till it warms upthen it's fine.

My mechanic said I'm doing well at 260K + miles, probably because I don't
abuse it and work around it's personality, but no point in re-building it
till it does not work.  I also religiously change the tranny fluid and
filter every 45K, now, with Mobil Synthetic.

Angelo Giaimo
Internet: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
(845)894-4296 ; fax: 892-6235 ;

1990 350SDL w/26X,000 miles.







Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2005-12-02 Thread Marshall Booth

Bill Aston wrote:
I agree with all of the caution flags shown so far. BUT, having had 
the opportunity to ride a long distance with a friend who owned  such 
a car, I must believe that it represents the very best possible 
combination of a superb ride with an economical power source. It 
would be a wonderful car to ownwith a new  Mercedes engine.


Bill Aston
Fort Lauderdale
1983  380 SEC 


Setting aside reliability issues, all of the "S" class cars gas and 
diesel (116, 126 AND 140) were WONDERFUL to ride in and to drive. The 
owners of 126 and 140 diesels as a group, had NO significant criticism 
of the cars EXCEPT for the engine problem and most said that if Mercedes 
would simply FIX the engine, they would be happy! That included people 
that had, had to replace the AC evaporator and people that had, had 
wiring harness problems.


All things considered, the '86-87 300SDLs remains the best value if a 
super highway car is what you need (even with the potential head problem 
- fewer than 20% have required replacement heads and the cost is a LOT 
less than a replacement engine). The later cars, while offering 
improvements have a MUCH higher failure rate and when they DO fail, the 
costs to correct the problems are MUCH higher.


A '90s 126 or 140 diesel with a MERCEDES replacement engine could be a 
great value.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2005-12-01 Thread Loren Faeth
For my money, the 126 SDL is the best long distance car there is.  Period. 
the end.  I am not convinced there is anything newer or older that is 
better.  They are comfortable, relatively economical, and still attractive 
nearly 30 years after the initial design.  (I was told by someone the 
design concept started in 75)  My 86 is exactly like the car featured in 
the 1986 S class sales booklet.  It is the only car I ever had that I 
thought was beautiful.  the 67 Chevelle SS 396 in bright metallic blue was 
a close second.


I had about $10 grand in my 86 SDL after purchase and initial fixup.  I 
have driven it over 200,000 miles, and it is STILL a wonderful car.  After 
rebuilding the suspension and new Bilsteins, it is now better than 
ever.  It runs strong, and if the cancer didn't get it, i'd never need 
another car.  I'd fix it forever.  Being in a cancer zone, I will probably 
start using it winters only after this winter.  Even with the cancer bug, 
it has been less expensive than any other choice in its size range.  A 123 
will still run cheaper.  a 201 190D or a 124 diesel will probably run 
cheaper. But the 126 is a beautiful, comfortable car.


91 sounds better when you tell neighbors and friends what your car is,  but 
86-91 SDLs are all great, save the 350 engine problems as noted.  If you 
plan to keep and drive the 91 SDL, then if it doesn't have a factory 
replacement engine, factor that into the purchase price.  If you will put 
at least 200K on it, then you can easily justify the cost of a factory 
replacement engine, if it needs one.


At 10:49 AM 12/1/2005, you wrote:

I agree with all of the caution flags shown so far. BUT, having had
the opportunity to ride a long distance with a friend who owned  such
a car, I must believe that it represents the very best possible
combination of a superb ride with an economical power source. It
would be a wonderful car to ownwith a new  Mercedes engine.

Bill Aston
Fort Lauderdale
1983  380 SEC



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[MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2005-12-01 Thread Bill Aston
I agree with all of the caution flags shown so far. BUT, having had 
the opportunity to ride a long distance with a friend who owned  such 
a car, I must believe that it represents the very best possible 
combination of a superb ride with an economical power source. It 
would be a wonderful car to ownwith a new  Mercedes engine.


Bill Aston
Fort Lauderdale
1983  380 SEC 




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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2005-11-09 Thread Loren Faeth
Way overpriced!  The stealership here is one of the most arrogant and 
onerous (overpriced) in the country.  They had a 91 rodbender 5-6 years ago 
for 12995, and i'd bet it was every bit as good as this one.  Since then 
SDLs have lost 50-75% in value.


If it is truly cherry AND has documentation to show a factory crate 
(non-rodbender) engine, it still isn't worth much more than 8 IMHO  But 
then again, a fair price is whatever the buyer and seller agree on.


Loren
SDL x2

At 05:20 PM 11/9/2005, you wrote:

yes, its tried and true, and timetested beyond a doubt to bend rods.

Sunil Hari wrote:

> "One of the most tried and true motors built by Mercedes-Benz."
>
> http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/109969456.html
>
> --
> Sunil Hari
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 513-205-7474
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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2005-11-09 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

yes, its tried and true, and timetested beyond a doubt to bend rods.

Sunil Hari wrote:


"One of the most tried and true motors built by Mercedes-Benz."

http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/109969456.html

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Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2005-11-09 Thread Tom Hargrave
Not a bad deal if the "tried and true" motor has been replaced by Mercedes.
Otherwise, it's another potential rod bender...


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Sunil Hari
Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 4:25 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL

"One of the most tried and true motors built by Mercedes-Benz."

http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/109969456.html

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[MBZ] 1991 350SDL

2005-11-09 Thread Sunil Hari
"One of the most tried and true motors built by Mercedes-Benz."

http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/109969456.html

--
Sunil Hari
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474