Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-20 Thread Alex Chamberlain
Some progress!

After 48 hours on the Battery Tender the battery (a new Group 49 from
NAPA, you may recall) was finally fully charged.  I was able to crank
for nearly a minute before the starter audibly slowed down.  No
cooking-electronics smell this time.

I stopped cranking to reglow every twenty seconds or so, as Peter suggested.

When I first turned the key after the first glow cycle, the car seemed
to start and run perfectly for a moment---just long enough for me to
think Hey, it's fixed!---then went back to the pattern it was
showing before, of mostly just cranking and occasionally firing on one
or two cylinders.  Significance?

There was no appreciable smoke from the exhaust and only a little
smell of mixed raw diesel and Diesel Purge.

I guess all this means I can rule out electrical problems, and
concentrate on fuel delivery. Peter said a few messages back:
You can also check for air leaks by removing the return
line from the steel line and putting it in a can partially
filled with fuel and have someone crank the engine --
if you get lots of bubbles, you have an air leak on the
suction side.
I'll round up a helper and do that once the battery is charged up again.

Comments?  Particularly on the weird start and then fail behavior?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-20 Thread Mitch Haley

Alex Chamberlain wrote:


Comments?  Particularly on the weird start and then fail behavior?


You get fuel (or diesel purge) enough to start it, but not a continuous flow to 
keep it running?


I'm thinking, get a 5' chunk of clear vinyl hose, probably 1/4 ID, stick it on 
the outlet of the clear filter, suck it full of diesel, drop the end in a 5 
gallon can, and see if you can siphon the can full with a good flow of airless 
fuel. Then you'll know if your problem is underhood or elsewhere.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-20 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Sat, Aug 20, 2011 at 7:59 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 get a 5' chunk of clear vinyl hose, probably 1/4 ID, stick it
 on the outlet of the clear filter, suck it full of diesel, drop the end in a
 5 gallon can, and see if you can siphon the can full with a good flow of
 airless fuel. Then you'll know if your problem is underhood or elsewhere.


Thanks Mitch, good idea.  I would love to be able to rule out the
possibility of having to drop the tank and/or clean out the filter
screen.  And I can do that while waiting for the battery to charge.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-20 Thread Max Dillon
If you cranked for one minute but stopped 3 times to glow during that minute, I 
don't think you will succeed. I have always had to crank for between thirty 
seconds and a minute before it starts firing, and usually it takes three or 
more attempts with a couple of minutes rest in between.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

Some progress!

After 48 hours on the Battery Tender the battery (a new Group 49 from
NAPA, you may recall) was finally fully charged. I was able to crank
for nearly a minute before the starter audibly slowed down. No
cooking-electronics smell this time.

I stopped cranking to reglow every twenty seconds or so, as Peter suggested.

When I first turned the key after the first glow cycle, the car seemed
to start and run perfectly for a moment---just long enough for me to
think Hey, it's fixed!---then went back to the pattern it was
showing before, of mostly just cranking and occasionally firing on one
or two cylinders. Significance?

There was no appreciable smoke from the exhaust and only a little
smell of mixed raw diesel and Diesel Purge.

I guess all this means I can rule out electrical problems, and
concentrate on fuel delivery. Peter said a few messages back:
You can also check for air leaks by removing the return
line from the steel line and putting it in a can partially
filled with fuel and have someone crank the engine --
if you get lots of bubbles, you have an air leak on the
suction side.
I'll round up a helper and do that once the battery is charged up again.

Comments? Particularly on the weird start and then fail behavior?

Alex

_

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-20 Thread Max Dillon
I also think your battery is not fully charged.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

Some progress!

After 48 hours on the Battery Tender the battery (a new Group 49 from
NAPA, you may recall) was finally fully charged. I was able to crank
for nearly a minute before the starter audibly slowed down. No
cooking-electronics smell this time.

I stopped cranking to reglow every twenty seconds or so, as Peter suggested.

When I first turned the key after the first glow cycle, the car seemed
to start and run perfectly for a moment---just long enough for me to
think Hey, it's fixed!---then went back to the pattern it was
showing before, of mostly just cranking and occasionally firing on one
or two cylinders. Significance?

There was no appreciable smoke from the exhaust and only a little
smell of mixed raw diesel and Diesel Purge.

I guess all this means I can rule out electrical problems, and
concentrate on fuel delivery. Peter said a few messages back:
You can also check for air leaks by removing the return
line from the steel line and putting it in a can partially
filled with fuel and have someone crank the engine --
if you get lots of bubbles, you have an air leak on the
suction side.
I'll round up a helper and do that once the battery is charged up again.

Comments? Particularly on the weird start and then fail behavior?

Alex

_

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-20 Thread Curt Raymond
Progress, hurray!

I'd guess your air actually leaked OUT which got you a complete charge of fuel 
for a sec which let it run.

If it were me I'd proactively replace all the rubber fuel lines. I HATE chasing 
fuel leaks... The only lines I've never replaced are the clear plastic ones 
around the filter...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 07:39:42 -0700
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever
Message-ID:
CABHyH=ZxBU7hLLy-g6Z=mdmvmpoe+yxtufzrwdj4fogmivc...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Some progress!

After 48 hours on the Battery Tender the battery (a new Group 49 from
NAPA, you may recall) was finally fully charged.  I was able to crank
for nearly a minute before the starter audibly slowed down.  No
cooking-electronics smell this time.

I stopped cranking to reglow every twenty seconds or so, as Peter suggested.

When I first turned the key after the first glow cycle, the car seemed
to start and run perfectly for a moment---just long enough for me to
think Hey, it's fixed!---then went back to the pattern it was
showing before, of mostly just cranking and occasionally firing on one
or two cylinders.  Significance?

There was no appreciable smoke from the exhaust and only a little
smell of mixed raw diesel and Diesel Purge.

I guess all this means I can rule out electrical problems, and
concentrate on fuel delivery. Peter said a few messages back:
You can also check for air leaks by removing the return
line from the steel line and putting it in a can partially
filled with fuel and have someone crank the engine --
if you get lots of bubbles, you have an air leak on the
suction side.
I'll round up a helper and do that once the battery is charged up again.

Comments?  Particularly on the weird start and then fail behavior?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-20 Thread John Reames
I've seen the fuel lines pick up air at the banjo fittings, not at the washers, 
but where they are pressed into the plastic.

It was exacerbated by a plugged tank vent.

Also, do the 603's have a solenoid shutoff valve?  If so, replace the o-ring(s) 
behind it.

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Aug 20, 2011, at 11:58, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Progress, hurray!
 
 I'd guess your air actually leaked OUT which got you a complete charge of 
 fuel for a sec which let it run.
 
 If it were me I'd proactively replace all the rubber fuel lines. I HATE 
 chasing fuel leaks... The only lines I've never replaced are the clear 
 plastic ones around the filter...
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 07:39:42 -0700
 From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever
 Message-ID:
CABHyH=ZxBU7hLLy-g6Z=mdmvmpoe+yxtufzrwdj4fogmivc...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
 
 Some progress!
 
 After 48 hours on the Battery Tender the battery (a new Group 49 from
 NAPA, you may recall) was finally fully charged.  I was able to crank
 for nearly a minute before the starter audibly slowed down.  No
 cooking-electronics smell this time.
 
 I stopped cranking to reglow every twenty seconds or so, as Peter suggested.
 
 When I first turned the key after the first glow cycle, the car seemed
 to start and run perfectly for a moment---just long enough for me to
 think Hey, it's fixed!---then went back to the pattern it was
 showing before, of mostly just cranking and occasionally firing on one
 or two cylinders.  Significance?
 
 There was no appreciable smoke from the exhaust and only a little
 smell of mixed raw diesel and Diesel Purge.
 
 I guess all this means I can rule out electrical problems, and
 concentrate on fuel delivery. Peter said a few messages back:
You can also check for air leaks by removing the return
line from the steel line and putting it in a can partially
filled with fuel and have someone crank the engine --
if you get lots of bubbles, you have an air leak on the
suction side.
 I'll round up a helper and do that once the battery is charged up again.
 
 Comments?  Particularly on the weird start and then fail behavior?
 
 Alex
 
 ___
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 For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-20 Thread Dieselhead
It is possible the transfer pump died.  We had that happen to the ~30 
year one on the 200D 2.4


Did you pull off the return line from the injectors to the fitting at 
the fuel filter?  If not, pull that off and watch as the engine is 
cranked.  It should gush fuel from both sides without bubbles or 
foam.  if not, you get some clues.


IF that is not good, then you can loosen the fitting at the filter 
from the transfer pump while cranking.  Just crack it enough to see 
if there is fuel under pressure, then tighten it up again right away. 
That will insure fuel delivery from the transfer pump.  Any air will 
show as bubbles also.




Some progress!

After 48 hours on the Battery Tender the battery (a new Group 49 from
NAPA, you may recall) was finally fully charged.  I was able to crank
for nearly a minute before the starter audibly slowed down.  No
cooking-electronics smell this time.

I stopped cranking to reglow every twenty seconds or so, as Peter suggested.

When I first turned the key after the first glow cycle, the car seemed
to start and run perfectly for a moment---just long enough for me to
think Hey, it's fixed!---then went back to the pattern it was
showing before, of mostly just cranking and occasionally firing on one
or two cylinders.  Significance?

There was no appreciable smoke from the exhaust and only a little
smell of mixed raw diesel and Diesel Purge.

I guess all this means I can rule out electrical problems, and
concentrate on fuel delivery. Peter said a few messages back:
You can also check for air leaks by removing the return
line from the steel line and putting it in a can partially
filled with fuel and have someone crank the engine --
if you get lots of bubbles, you have an air leak on the
suction side.
I'll round up a helper and do that once the battery is charged up again.

Comments?  Particularly on the weird start and then fail behavior?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-19 Thread Dieselhead
At the tank, or under the hood between the hard line and the 
prefilter.  For a temp, I'd put it under the hood.



Curt:  After 30 seconds of cranking with no start the car should reek
of diesel...
Max:  Unless the fuel system is not yet fully primed?

That's why I like Loren's idea to put in an electric primer pump.  But
where exactly in the system?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-19 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 6:28 PM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:
 It's been on the Battery Tender for 24 hours now and the red light is
 still on, indicating it's not anywhere near a full charge.

 Battery Tender?  You want something more analogous to SNL's
 Colon Blow cereal, a real battery _charger_.  I use a 25yo
 2A/10A Schauer, overnight will always do it.  The tenders are
 for when in storage.


Dunno, but the Battery Tender company claims their chargers will do
everything but slice bread, and I've had good luck with them reviving
batteries before, not just keeping them topped off.

The other charger I have, the Schumacher, is a big heavy thing about
the size of a portable typewriter, with 2A slow charge, 12A fast
charge, and 75A jump start settings.  I don't know if maybe I'm
just not leaving it on long enough, but it doesn't seem to be able to
charge a flat battery nearly as well as the little Battery Tender.  On
the 75A setting it does do well to start a car where the battery is
just a little too low, like when SWMBO leaves her lights on all night
in the winter (not that that's ever happened).

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-19 Thread Mitch Haley


Ah, you've got a 12A charger. That's the ticket.
Just put it on the depleted battery overnight.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-19 Thread Curt Raymond
Somebody had asked about that earlier. Most big batteries will take 2a 
forever...

My 12a charger has recently decided it doesn't want to shut off from the 12a 
setting on smaller batteries. Its boiled my motorcycle battery twice. Now when 
I'm using it for that (the motorcycle hasn't been ridden much this year) I put 
it on a 2 hour timer.

-Curt

Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 13:06:54 -0400
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever
Message-ID: 4e4e982e.20...@voyager.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed


Ah, you've got a 12A charger. That's the ticket.
Just put it on the depleted battery overnight.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-18 Thread Allan Streib
Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com writes:

 It was running a year ago. Loren's right that I should've tried to
 start it before changing the filters, but no use crying over spilt
 diesel.  The basic facts are that it ran fine when parked as the
 expression goes, I changed the filters, put in a new battery, and now
 it won't start.

New battery -- clamps are clean and TIGHT?  Ground wire knocked loose
(or corroded while sitting) at the chassis connection?

Ran when parked -- Rodents chewing on the wiring while sitting?

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-18 Thread Max Dillon
Part of the problem is electrical, either a loose or corroded wire from battery 
to starter or ground. The other part is a dormant obstinate engine. Pull start, 
then fix the wiring at your leisure.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 12:30 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:
 Whoa whoa whoa... lets just take a step back now and look at whats going on
 here.
 This was a running car before the filter change, right?
 Now, with a new filter, it doesn't run any more.

It was running a year ago. Loren's right that I should've tried to
start it before changing the filters, but no use crying over spilt
diesel. The basic facts are that it ran fine when parked as the
expression goes, I changed the filters, put in a new battery, and now
it won't start.

Sounds like the leading theories are:

- Bad or not fully charged battery---It's new, and I'll leave it on
the charger for two days before I try again.

- GPs not getting power---easy check.

- Not cranking long enough---I tried cranking for longer than 15
seconds. The engine slowed down at around 20 seconds, but then
started catching periodically just like it has been before (firing two
or three times and then just cranking). At about 30 seconds I quit
because there was the unmistakable smell of overheated wiring coming
from the driver's side of the engine near the firewall---isn't that
where the starter is? If I try again with a battery that is fully
charged, and the starter still slows down noticeably after 15 seconds,
then does that definitively mean the starter is failing (increased
current draw as it heats up)?

- Air leaks, meaning no fuel delivery to injectors despite seeing fuel
at the return line on the filter and at the hard lines when either is
loosened---I can smell the exhaust after cranking a while, but it
really doesn't smoke to speak of, although I find unburned diesel
smoke is harder to see on a warm clear day. I will take out the fuel
filter center bolt and make sure that the o-rings are where they
should be, and also check for air leaks elsewhere.

Could airflow be obstructed on the exhaust side? I don't know how I
would begin to check for that beyond sticking a wire or something up
the tailpipe to dislodge wasp or mouse nests.

Alex

_

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-18 Thread Curt Raymond
It'd probably be fine for short periods. Its quite common to convert 6v 
tractors to 12v without modifying the starter. In those cases the 6v starter 
spins the engine so quick at 12v you only ever just bump the switch...

The problem with running in parallel is that if the first battery is actually 
bad the second battery has to push it. Which is to say jumper cables aren't 
really parallel... Also most jumper cables are absolute crap. Good jumper 
cables cost real money.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 15:27:54 -0400
From: Rolf r...@winmutt.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever
Message-ID: 4e4c163a.8000...@winmutt.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Oh thats a pretty bad idea IMO. Much better off running in parallel for
extended run time. Not to mention burning out the starter. The motoroam
has a 24v starter its 2x the size of the 617 started which is already
huge to me.

-Rolf

On 08/17/2011 03:20 PM, Fmiser wrote:
 Curt Raymond wrote:
 I think it means a bad battery, should be 30+ seconds before
 it slows down noticeably. Could be a bad starter the slows
 down as it warms up?

 Either way if it were my car and I could get a reliable helper
 (not always that easy) I'd be up for a tow start at this point.
 I think I would rig 24V to spin the starter.

 *CAUTION*  This requires being ABSOLUTELY SURE that none of the
 24V gets to any other electrical system in the car.

 But I don't have an easy time getting a reliable helper.

 --   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-18 Thread Curt Raymond
After 30 seconds of cranking with no start the car should reek of diesel...

-Curt

Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 15:39:34 -0700
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever
Message-ID:
CABHyH=aW_kWuw+sE0uRj53NXrSdbeX7OsfPf=yq72iagc6a...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 12:30 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:
 Whoa whoa whoa... lets just take a step back now and look at whats going on
 here.
 This was a running car before the filter change, right?
 Now, with a new filter, it doesn't run any more.

It was running a year ago. Loren's right that I should've tried to
start it before changing the filters, but no use crying over spilt
diesel.  The basic facts are that it ran fine when parked as the
expression goes, I changed the filters, put in a new battery, and now
it won't start.

Sounds like the leading theories are:

- Bad or not fully charged battery---It's new, and I'll leave it on
the charger for two days before I try again.

- GPs not getting power---easy check.

- Not cranking long enough---I tried cranking for longer than 15
seconds.  The engine slowed down at around 20 seconds, but then
started catching periodically just like it has been before (firing two
or three times and then just cranking).  At about 30 seconds I quit
because there was the unmistakable smell of overheated wiring coming
from the driver's side of the engine near the firewall---isn't that
where the starter is?  If I try again with a battery that is fully
charged, and the starter still slows down noticeably after 15 seconds,
then does that definitively mean the starter is failing (increased
current draw as it heats up)?

- Air leaks, meaning no fuel delivery to injectors despite seeing fuel
at the return line on the filter and at the hard lines when either is
loosened---I can smell the exhaust after cranking a while, but it
really doesn't smoke to speak of, although I find unburned diesel
smoke is harder to see on a warm clear day.  I will take out the fuel
filter center bolt and make sure that the o-rings are where they
should be, and also check for air leaks elsewhere.

Could airflow be obstructed on the exhaust side?  I don't know how I
would begin to check for that beyond sticking a wire or something up
the tailpipe to dislodge wasp or mouse nests.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-18 Thread Dieselhead
And the lack of the reek and smoke leads me to think that there is 
air leaking in the fuel system, so that some fuel is getting to the 
nozzles, but not enough for full spurts form the nozzles, because of 
too much air.


Another cheap trick is to put an electric fuel pump ahead of the 
transfer pump to pressurize the system. as a diagnostic/temp fix 
until all the leaks are stopped.



After 30 seconds of cranking with no start the car should reek of diesel...

-Curt

Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 15:39:34 -0700
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever
Message-ID:
CABHyH=aW_kWuw+sE0uRj53NXrSdbeX7OsfPf=yq72iagc6a...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 12:30 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:

 Whoa whoa whoa... lets just take a step back now and look at whats going on
 here.
 This was a running car before the filter change, right?
 Now, with a new filter, it doesn't run any more.


It was running a year ago. Loren's right that I should've tried to
start it before changing the filters, but no use crying over spilt
diesel.  The basic facts are that it ran fine when parked as the
expression goes, I changed the filters, put in a new battery, and now
it won't start.

Sounds like the leading theories are:

- Bad or not fully charged battery---It's new, and I'll leave it on
the charger for two days before I try again.

- GPs not getting power---easy check.

- Not cranking long enough---I tried cranking for longer than 15
seconds.  The engine slowed down at around 20 seconds, but then
started catching periodically just like it has been before (firing two
or three times and then just cranking).  At about 30 seconds I quit
because there was the unmistakable smell of overheated wiring coming
from the driver's side of the engine near the firewall---isn't that
where the starter is?  If I try again with a battery that is fully
charged, and the starter still slows down noticeably after 15 seconds,
then does that definitively mean the starter is failing (increased
current draw as it heats up)?

- Air leaks, meaning no fuel delivery to injectors despite seeing fuel
at the return line on the filter and at the hard lines when either is
loosened---I can smell the exhaust after cranking a while, but it
really doesn't smoke to speak of, although I find unburned diesel
smoke is harder to see on a warm clear day.  I will take out the fuel
filter center bolt and make sure that the o-rings are where they
should be, and also check for air leaks elsewhere.

Could airflow be obstructed on the exhaust side?  I don't know how I
would begin to check for that beyond sticking a wire or something up
the tailpipe to dislodge wasp or mouse nests.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-18 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 9:41 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 And the lack of the reek and smoke leads me to think that there is air
 leaking in the fuel system, so that some fuel is getting to the nozzles, but
 not enough for full spurts form the nozzles, because of too much air.

If I understand you right, this situation would explain the fact that
I see a strong dribble of fuel when I crack open the hard lines,
right?

 Another cheap trick is to put an electric fuel pump ahead of the transfer
 pump to pressurize the system. as a diagnostic/temp fix until all the leaks
 are stopped.

You know, all the fuel lines are probably original.  Maybe I should
just replace all the ones in the engine compartment with fresh hose
clamps.  I bet Rusty can do me a package deal with all the right
sizes.  Is it worth replacing the two translucent hoses going to/from
the main filter, the ones with the integral banjo bolts, if they are
not visibly cracked?

I like the electric fuel pump idea.  Is the transfer pump is the
little gadget hanging off the side of the IP below the side plate?  By
ahead you mean to splice the electric pump into the line just
upstream from it, or just downstream?  Would I leave the electric pump
running all the time or just use it to get the engine started and then
expect it to pull enough fuel by itself to keep running?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-18 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 3:58 AM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
 New battery -- clamps are clean and TIGHT?  Ground wire knocked loose
 (or corroded while sitting) at the chassis connection?

Clamps and ground wire look good.  As someone else wondered---it is
indeed a Group 49, or whatever the tall, long one is that just barely
fits in the tray.

I have high hopes that the short cranking/quick run-down problem is
merely that, as Curt suggested, the battery was never fully charged.
It's been on the Battery Tender for 24 hours now and the red light is
still on, indicating it's not anywhere near a full charge.  The dumb
Schumacher trickle charger I had it on before indicated a full charge
after just 12 hours.  I'm going to resist the urge to not try to start
it for another 24 hours, longer if the solid green light on the
Battery Tender isn't on yet.

 Ran when parked -- Rodents chewing on the wiring while sitting?

Possibly, but I am crossing my fingers that's not the case.  Mice got
into the interior, built a couple of nests, and left their little
calling cards all over.  The seats are a total loss, impossible to get
the smell out of them.  I steam-cleaned the carpets, wiped down the
door panels, and replaced the seats with the ones from my parts car
(lesson: leave a window down or a door ajar on any car you don't want
to have a mouse problem in, so that the barn cats can get in).  But
there was no sign that the mice had been under the hood.  And I
inspected the wiring to the seat motors on the old seats very closely
and saw no signs of damage, despite the fact that one of the nests was
right under the passenger seat.  I hope that means these mice had no
taste for wiring.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-18 Thread Rick Knoble

 Alex wrote
 You know, all the fuel lines are probably original. 

One possible problem I had thought about is rusted metal lines. On several 
vehicles
I have owned or worked on that have been parked for several years, fuel lines 
and brake lines tend to rust in
two. Try the fully charged battery and hooking a fuel source under the hood.

Rick
  
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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-18 Thread Mitch Haley


If you've been deep cycling the new battery between 0% and 25% charge a few 
times, it might have severely diminished capacity already.


If your charger(s) only supply a small fraction of the battery's capacity, can 
you put the battery in a running car and go for a drive at 30-40A for an hour or so?


A new or nearly new battery, fully charged, should have an at rest voltage of 
12.8 or better. (after it has been off the charger for a couple of hours)


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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-18 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Thu, Aug 18, 2011 at 12:21 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 If you've been deep cycling the new battery between 0% and 25% charge a few
 times, it might have severely diminished capacity already.

 If your charger(s) only supply a small fraction of the battery's capacity,
 can you put the battery in a running car and go for a drive at 30-40A for an
 hour or so?

Yeah, that's doable.  If it still won't crank for more than 15 s
tomorrow after being on the Battery Tender for two days, I'll try
that.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-18 Thread Max Dillon
Unless the fuel system is not yet fully primed?

Max


-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

After 30 seconds of cranking with no start the car should reek of diesel...

-Curt

Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 15:39:34 -0700
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever
Message-ID:
CABHyH=aW_kWuw+sE0uRj53NXrSdbeX7OsfPf=yq72iagc6a...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 12:30 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:
 Whoa whoa whoa... lets just take a step back now and look at whats going on
 here.
 This was a running car before the filter change, right?
 Now, with a new filter, it doesn't run any more.

It was running a year ago. Loren's right that I should've tried to
start it before changing the filters, but no use crying over spilt
diesel. The basic facts are that it ran fine when parked as the
expression goes, I changed the filters, put in a new battery, and now
it won't start.

Sounds like the leading theories are:

- Bad or not fully charged battery---It's new, and I'll leave it on
the charger for two days before I try again.

- GPs not getting power---easy check.

- Not cranking long enough---I tried cranking for longer than 15
seconds. The engine slowed down at around 20 seconds, but then
started catching periodically just like it has been before (firing two
or three times and then just cranking). At about 30 seconds I quit
because there was the unmistakable smell of overheated wiring coming
from the driver's side of the engine near the firewall---isn't that
where the starter is? If I try again with a battery that is fully
charged, and the starter still slows down noticeably after 15 seconds,
then does that definitively mean the starter is failing (increased
current draw as it heats up)?

- Air leaks, meaning no fuel delivery to injectors despite seeing fuel
at the return line on the filter and at the hard lines when either is
loosened---I can smell the exhaust after cranking a while, but it
really doesn't smoke to speak of, although I find unburned diesel
smoke is harder to see on a warm clear day. I will take out the fuel
filter center bolt and make sure that the o-rings are where they
should be, and also check for air leaks elsewhere.

Could airflow be obstructed on the exhaust side? I don't know how I
would begin to check for that beyond sticking a wire or something up
the tailpipe to dislodge wasp or mouse nests.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-18 Thread Alex Chamberlain
Curt:  After 30 seconds of cranking with no start the car should reek
of diesel...
Max:  Unless the fuel system is not yet fully primed?

That's why I like Loren's idea to put in an electric primer pump.  But
where exactly in the system?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-18 Thread Curt Raymond
Dunno if 30 sec would be long enough to prime the system but Alex has been 
through this cycle several times now and has fuel at the injectors so I'd guess 
it *should* be primed by now.

I'm thinking if it were mine I'd take the idea of running the new battery in 
the known good car for a couple hours to get it topped up. A battery tender is 
likely only charging at 2-3a which might not even be enough to beat internal 
resistance if the battery has been slightly damaged by running it down.

If that didn't work I'd pull it... ;)

Anybody remember that I actually got to try pull starting my '84 190D auto 
trans a couple months ago? Pulled it with a co-workers Infiniti, he was 
terrified through the whole procedure but quite proud afterward.

-Curt



Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2011 17:37:11 -0400
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever
Message-ID: 52f2ecbc-2e68-4e0e-b1a8-b7d5e5a5a...@email.android.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Unless the fuel system is not yet fully primed?

Max


-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

After 30 seconds of cranking with no start the car should reek of diesel...

-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-18 Thread Max Dillon
Go cheap; rig a fuel source elevated over the engine to provide pressure via 
gravity. It may also help ID any leaks.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

Curt: After 30 seconds of cranking with no start the car should reek
of diesel...
Max: Unless the fuel system is not yet fully primed?

That's why I like Loren's idea to put in an electric primer pump. But
where exactly in the system?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-18 Thread Jim Cathey

It's been on the Battery Tender for 24 hours now and the red light is
still on, indicating it's not anywhere near a full charge.


Battery Tender?  You want something more analogous to SNL's
Colon Blow cereal, a real battery _charger_.  I use a 25yo
2A/10A Schauer, overnight will always do it.  The tenders are
for when in storage.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Rolf

More reasons I advocate manual transmissions!

-Rolf

On 08/17/2011 12:31 AM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:

A pull start is more dangerous (to the car) than having the battery tested
at the FLAPS.



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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

It needs compression as well, without that it will not run.

On 8/16/2011 10:53 PM, Luther's Benz wrote:

Have you tried this start process with diesel purge from just under the 
hood?nbsp;
Are you in a situation where you can pull start it?nbsp;If it won't pull 
start, then fuel blockage/leakage is the problem.

All a diesel needs is fuel and air to run...wait, have you checked to make sure 
nothing made a nest in your air intake?

Luther



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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Some silly questions:

Does the car have a block heater?  Is so, plug it in for several hours and
try again... the engine can be heated until its warm to the touch this way.

And, are you cranking with your foot on the pedal?  I can't remember where I
read this, but I recall that having the pedal about 1/2 way down promotes
bleeding of air from the system.  (At least, I think it did on a 200D).

Jaime


On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 10:12 PM, Alex Chamberlain
apchamberl...@gmail.comwrote:

 On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 7:05 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
  As for Alex,
  1. crack the inj. lines at the injectors.
  2.  crack the return banjo fitting at the filter, or slip off the small
 line
  form the nozzles.
  3. crank until you get fuel at the return line.
  4. close the return lines
  5. crank until you get fuel at the nozzles.
  6.  when you get fuel at the injectors, close the lines.
  7.  Crank it again.
 
  If you don't get fuel at step 3, then search for air leaks in the fuel
  lines.  It is usually deteriorated rubber hose, but can be rust too.

 Well, I have followed steps 1-7 three times.  Each time I get fuel at
 steps 3 and 6.  Each time I've cranked the car until the battery ran
 down three or four times, putting it on the charger overnight between
 tries.  Still no start.  It will sound like three or four cylinders
 are firing irregularly, but never quite enough to turn under its own
 power.  The battery is fresh and I can hear that it's turning plenty
 fast enough when first cranked.  So that makes a total of about a
 dozen serious attempts at starting since changing the filters.  At
 this point I feel like I'm just killing the starter.

 I don't see any sign of leaky lines.  How would I test for air leaks
 too small to see easily?

 I thought of the glow plugs, but they are only a few years old
 (replaced when the #16 head blew).  Resistance at the GP relay
 connector is 0.5 ohm between the terminal and ground for all six
 terminals.  I don't have a VOM with a wide enough DC amp range to test
 the current draw, but I know that at least some current is being
 pulled by the fact that the interior lights dim and the pitch of the
 key-in buzzer goes lower when the key is in glow position (and the
 idiot light comes on steady).

 Help! I am about ready to push this car off a cliff (if I could get it
 started to drive it close enough).

 Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain
Thanks for all the help, guys!  To address all the advice and questions at once:

- Jamie asked about the block heater.  Great idea.  It is an '87 so
has the factory block heater, and I have the cable, just never
bothered to hook it up.  Right now the car is sitting on grass at an
angle, so it's not exactly the best place to jack it up to get
underneath and install the cable, but I'll see if I can tow it into my
driveway and do that.

- Jamie and Peter asked about holding the accelerator down all the
way, and about repeatedly glowing while cranking.  I'm doing both,
essentially following a cold-weather start procedure.  Hold the pedal
down, turn key to glow position, make sure the glow light is on, wait
until I hear the relay click off, crank for fifteen seconds or so,
turn the key off, glow again, crank again, etc.  If the glow light is
on, doesn't that mean I'm getting power to the GPs?  I will check for
voltage there, regardless.  What's the easiest, safest way to bypass
the GP relay and power the GPs directly off the battery?  Run a fat
wire from the positive terminal to the GP fuse?

- Loren and others mentioned air flow.  The air filter's clean and
there's no sign of mouse or wasp activity on either side of it.  As
far as the other end, I never heard of mice or anything else clogging
an exhaust, but I'll have someone else crank while I feel at the
tailpipe for air movement.  There isn't any smoke coming out while
cranking, but I can definitely smell unburned Diesel Purge (which is
what I filled the new main filter with when I changed it).

- Walt and Peter mentioned battery condition.  The battery is new and
it's been on a Schumacher charger which has both slow charge and
jump start modes.  I've been leaving it on slow charge mode
overnight, then flipping the switch to jump start and leaving it
there for half a minute before trying to start the car.  I've also
tried hooking up another running car with a healthy electrical system
so that the two batteries are working in parallel.   That didn't seem
to make any difference.

- Peter suggested a dying starter that isn't turning quite fast
enough.  The car sounds like it is cranking at the usual speed, but I
could be deceived, I guess.  What's a good way to tell if the starter
is healthy, other than dropping $250 on a new one?  Could I use a
non-contact tachometer on one of the pulleys while cranking?  Harbor
freight has one for $30:
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-photo-sensor-tachometer-66632.html

- Loren described a definitive test for air leaks in the fuel lines.
I'll do that.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Mitch Haley

Do you have a digital sound recorder, or a laptop with a microphone in it?
Record it, play it back at reduced speed, and count the compression 
strokes. Chugs per second x 20 = rpm on a four stroke six cylinder.

100rpm would be 5 chugs per second.

Mitch.

Alex Chamberlain wrote:

- Peter suggested a dying starter that isn't turning quite fast
enough.  The car sounds like it is cranking at the usual speed, but I
could be deceived, I guess.  What's a good way to tell if the starter
is healthy, other than dropping $250 on a new one?  Could I use a
non-contact tachometer on one of the pulleys while cranking?  Harbor
freight has one for $30:
  



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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 9:24 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 Do you have a digital sound recorder, or a laptop with a microphone in it?
 Record it, play it back at reduced speed, and count the compression strokes.
 Chugs per second x 20 = rpm on a four stroke six cylinder.
 100rpm would be 5 chugs per second.


Brilliant!  I just recorded it on my cell phone, loaded the sound file
into Audacity, and counted the peaks.  I'm getting seven chugs per
second at the start of the cranking operation; after about fifteen
seconds of steady cranking it drops rapidly to four.  Good battery and
starter, then?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Luther's Benz
Cranking RPMs can be gauged by looking at the tach, should be around 400-500 
RPM

Luther

On Aug 17, 2011 11:02 AM, Alex Chamberlain lt;apchamberl...@gmail.comgt; 
wrote: 

Thanks for all the help, guys!  To address all the advice and questions at once:



- Jamie asked about the block heater.  Great idea.  It is an '87 so

has the factory block heater, and I have the cable, just never

bothered to hook it up.  Right now the car is sitting on grass at an

angle, so it's not exactly the best place to jack it up to get

underneath and install the cable, but I'll see if I can tow it into my

driveway and do that.



- Jamie and Peter asked about holding the accelerator down all the

way, and about repeatedly glowing while cranking.  I'm doing both,

essentially following a cold-weather start procedure.  Hold the pedal

down, turn key to glow position, make sure the glow light is on, wait

until I hear the relay click off, crank for fifteen seconds or so,

turn the key off, glow again, crank again, etc.  If the glow light is

on, doesn't that mean I'm getting power to the GPs?  I will check for

voltage there, regardless.  What's the easiest, safest way to bypass

the GP relay and power the GPs directly off the battery?  Run a fat

wire from the positive terminal to the GP fuse?



- Loren and others mentioned air flow.  The air filter's clean and

there's no sign of mouse or wasp activity on either side of it.  As

far as the other end, I never heard of mice or anything else clogging

an exhaust, but I'll have someone else crank while I feel at the

tailpipe for air movement.  There isn't any smoke coming out while

cranking, but I can definitely smell unburned Diesel Purge (which is

what I filled the new main filter with when I changed it).



- Walt and Peter mentioned battery condition.  The battery is new and

it's been on a Schumacher charger which has both slow charge and

jump start modes.  I've been leaving it on slow charge mode

overnight, then flipping the switch to jump start and leaving it

there for half a minute before trying to start the car.  I've also

tried hooking up another running car with a healthy electrical system

so that the two batteries are working in parallel.   That didn't seem

to make any difference.



- Peter suggested a dying starter that isn't turning quite fast

enough.  The car sounds like it is cranking at the usual speed, but I

could be deceived, I guess.  What's a good way to tell if the starter

is healthy, other than dropping $250 on a new one?  Could I use a

non-contact tachometer on one of the pulleys while cranking?  Harbor

freight has one for $30:

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-photo-sensor-tachometer-66632.html



- Loren described a definitive test for air leaks in the fuel lines.

I'll do that.



Alex



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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 9:46 AM, Luther's Benz benz-n-h...@gulseth.net wrote:
 Cranking RPMs can be gauged by looking at the tach, should be around 400-500 
 RPM


Peter says 100, I'm getting about 140.  Who's right?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Curt Raymond
Should stink of fuel too while you're trying. 

Have you tried jumping the car off another while cranking? How long is a long 
time cranking? A good battery ought to be able to crank for a solid minute 
anyway.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 21:52:17 -0500
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever
Message-ID: 123f3017-6f63-41e2-8edc-dae7148a0...@earthlink.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed

Make sure the glow plugs are working.

Glow again when it starts to sputter.

Typically it will run on a few cylinders, stopping if you let off the 
starter, then gradually hit more and more and eventually run by 
itself.  You won't overheat the starter if it's firing on a couple 
cylinders, it's not working very hard.

Is there white smoke rolling out the exhaust?  Should be if there is 
fuel delivery.

You can try bypassing the fuel preheater -- switch the suction line 
directly to the lift pump.  Replace the hoses if not new.

You can also check for air leaks by removing the return line from the 
steel line and putting it in a can partially filled with fuel and 
have someone crank the engine -- if you get lots of bubbles, you have 
an air leak on the suction side.

You may have a weak starter.  They usually croak on a 603 by locking 
up solid, but it could be cranking slow.  Minimum is 100 rprn, you 
should have better than that.  Won't start otherwise, and you can 
crank til the end of time with a slow starter and nothing will happen.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Should stink of fuel too while you're trying.

It does.


 Have you tried jumping the car off another while cranking?

Yep, no difference.

 How long is a long time cranking? A good battery ought to be able to crank 
 for a
 solid minute anyway.

It can go about fifteen seconds steadily before it begins to slow
down.  I'm guessing that means good compression (since otherwise the
starter wouldn't be fighting so hard to turn the engine)?  Or could it
mean clogged exhaust?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread buymbparts
With a good battery you should be able to crank for at least 1 minute with no 
slow down. 


Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

-Original Message-
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 09:56:13 
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Should stink of fuel too while you're trying.

It does.


 Have you tried jumping the car off another while cranking?

Yep, no difference.

 How long is a long time cranking? A good battery ought to be able to crank 
 for a
 solid minute anyway.

It can go about fifteen seconds steadily before it begins to slow
down.  I'm guessing that means good compression (since otherwise the
starter wouldn't be fighting so hard to turn the engine)?  Or could it
mean clogged exhaust?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 10:00 AM,  buymbpa...@gmail.com wrote:
 With a good battery you should be able to crank for at least 1 minute with no 
 slow down.




OK, I think this is a critical point then.  It can only crank for 15
seconds before slowing down significantly.  Defective battery?  (It's
brand new, NAPA's mid-priced line.)  Defective charger?  (I'll try one
of my Battery Tenders instead of the Schumacher.)  What else?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Max Dillon
15 seconds of cranking is too short by about 45 seconds. That could be your 
whole problem right there. 

When I do any fuel work on my 124s, sometimes I need three or more attempts 
that are each about 1 minute long, with 2 or 3 minutes of rest in between.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

Thanks for all the help, guys! To address all the advice and questions at once:

- Jamie asked about the block heater. Great idea. It is an '87 so
has the factory block heater, and I have the cable, just never
bothered to hook it up. Right now the car is sitting on grass at an
angle, so it's not exactly the best place to jack it up to get
underneath and install the cable, but I'll see if I can tow it into my
driveway and do that.

- Jamie and Peter asked about holding the accelerator down all the
way, and about repeatedly glowing while cranking. I'm doing both,
essentially following a cold-weather start procedure. Hold the pedal
down, turn key to glow position, make sure the glow light is on, wait
until I hear the relay click off, crank for fifteen seconds or so,
turn the key off, glow again, crank again, etc. If the glow light is
on, doesn't that mean I'm getting power to the GPs? I will check for
voltage there, regardless. What's the easiest, safest way to bypass
the GP relay and power the GPs directly off the battery? Run a fat
wire from the positive terminal to the GP fuse?

- Loren and others mentioned air flow. The air filter's clean and
there's no sign of mouse or wasp activity on either side of it. As
far as the other end, I never heard of mice or anything else clogging
an exhaust, but I'll have someone else crank while I feel at the
tailpipe for air movement. There isn't any smoke coming out while
cranking, but I can definitely smell unburned Diesel Purge (which is
what I filled the new main filter with when I changed it).

- Walt and Peter mentioned battery condition. The battery is new and
it's been on a Schumacher charger which has both slow charge and
jump start modes. I've been leaving it on slow charge mode
overnight, then flipping the switch to jump start and leaving it
there for half a minute before trying to start the car. I've also
tried hooking up another running car with a healthy electrical system
so that the two batteries are working in parallel. That didn't seem
to make any difference.

- Peter suggested a dying starter that isn't turning quite fast
enough. The car sounds like it is cranking at the usual speed, but I
could be deceived, I guess. What's a good way to tell if the starter
is healthy, other than dropping $250 on a new one? Could I use a
non-contact tachometer on one of the pulleys while cranking? Harbor
freight has one for $30:
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-photo-sensor-tachometer-66632.html

- Loren described a definitive test for air leaks in the fuel lines.
I'll do that.

Alex

_

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread buymbparts
Diesel's always want the very best battery you can buy. Spare no expense. 

 
Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

-Original Message-
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 10:04:51 
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 10:00 AM,  buymbpa...@gmail.com wrote:
 With a good battery you should be able to crank for at least 1 minute with no 
 slow down.




OK, I think this is a critical point then.  It can only crank for 15
seconds before slowing down significantly.  Defective battery?  (It's
brand new, NAPA's mid-priced line.)  Defective charger?  (I'll try one
of my Battery Tenders instead of the Schumacher.)  What else?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Max Dillon
I think it means time for a new battery.

Can you take the battery to your FLAPS for a load test?

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Should stink of fuel too while you're trying.

It does.


 Have you tried jumping the car off another while cranking?

Yep, no difference.

 How long is a long time cranking? A good battery ought to be able to crank 
 for a
 solid minute anyway.

It can go about fifteen seconds steadily before it begins to slow
down. I'm guessing that means good compression (since otherwise the
starter wouldn't be fighting so hard to turn the engine)? Or could it
mean clogged exhaust?

Alex

_

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Rolf
I will second that. At idle I think its 5cc per injection stroke. At 
400RPM its going to be considerably less.


-Rolf

On 08/17/2011 01:07 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

15 seconds of cranking is too short by about 45 seconds. That could be your 
whole problem right there.

When I do any fuel work on my 124s, sometimes I need three or more attempts 
that are each about 1 minute long, with 2 or 3 minutes of rest in between.

Max



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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Rolf

Or just buy 2 and put them in parallel.

-Rolf

On 08/17/2011 01:11 PM, buymbpa...@gmail.com wrote:

Diesel's always want the very best battery you can buy. Spare no expense.


Sent from my BlackBerry® wireless handheld

-Original Message-
From: Alex Chamberlainapchamberl...@gmail.com
Sender: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 10:04:51
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 10:00 AM,buymbpa...@gmail.com  wrote:

With a good battery you should be able to crank for at least 1 minute with no 
slow down.




OK, I think this is a critical point then.  It can only crank for 15
seconds before slowing down significantly.  Defective battery?  (It's
brand new, NAPA's mid-priced line.)  Defective charger?  (I'll try one
of my Battery Tenders instead of the Schumacher.)  What else?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Mitch Haley

buymbpa...@gmail.com wrote:
Diesel's always want the very best battery you can buy. Spare no expense. 


Is it a full size group 49 or similar, or one of those little modern things?

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Max Dillon
7 per second * 60 seconds = 420 per minute.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 9:24 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 Do you have a digital sound recorder, or a laptop with a microphone in it?
 Record it, play it back at reduced speed, and count the compression strokes.
 Chugs per second x 20 = rpm on a four stroke six cylinder.
 100rpm would be 5 chugs per second.


Brilliant! I just recorded it on my cell phone, loaded the sound file
into Audacity, and counted the peaks. I'm getting seven chugs per
second at the start of the cranking operation; after about fifteen
seconds of steady cranking it drops rapidly to four. Good battery and
starter, then?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Mitch Haley

Max Dillon wrote:

7 per second * 60 seconds = 420 *pulses* per minute.


* 2 revs per pulse / 6 cylinders = 140 rpm.

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Curt Raymond
I think it means a bad battery, should be 30+ seconds before it slows down 
noticeably. Could be a bad starter the slows down as it warms up?

Either way if it were my car and I could get a reliable helper (not always that 
easy) I'd be up for a tow start at this point.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 09:56:13 -0700
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever
Message-ID:
CABHyH=b20kg156tj-+sr4rr4gdhj4py4i8dme1n-crgcwhc...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Should stink of fuel too while you're trying.

It does.


 Have you tried jumping the car off another while cranking?

Yep, no difference.

 How long is a long time cranking? A good battery ought to be able to crank 
 for a
 solid minute anyway.

It can go about fifteen seconds steadily before it begins to slow
down.  I'm guessing that means good compression (since otherwise the
starter wouldn't be fighting so hard to turn the engine)?  Or could it
mean clogged exhaust?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Curt Raymond
Ooooh another thought, whats the rate on slow charge on your charger? On mine 
its 2a. Group 49 batteries at 900-1100cca but that doesn't tell us the long 
term capacity. I'm gonna guess, based on size its around 100ah so with your 
charger assuming you only run down to 75% thats still 12.5 hours to recharge. 
Could be on slow charge you're not getting enough time to get a full charge in.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 10:04:51 -0700
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever
Message-ID:
CABHyH=a9ts4GiQKNv-+3Lx=c_rerl2j5qxeaosywrxzwj6z...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 10:00 AM,  buymbpa...@gmail.com wrote:
 With a good battery you should be able to crank for at least 1 minute with no 
 slow down.




OK, I think this is a critical point then.  It can only crank for 15
seconds before slowing down significantly.  Defective battery?  (It's
brand new, NAPA's mid-priced line.)  Defective charger?  (I'll try one
of my Battery Tenders instead of the Schumacher.)  What else?

Alex


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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Rusty Cullens
If it is a group 49 battery and it is new and does this, it is probably the 
starter. As voltage drops the amperage increases which will kill a good 
battery quickly. My vote is starter not battery but since when does 
my vote count.




Rusty Cullens
BuyMBparts, Inc.
www.buyMBparts.biz
www.buyEUROparts.biz
www.buyASIANparts.biz
Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
Fax/ 770-454-9745
ICQ 427542441
AIM BuyMBparts

- Original Message - 
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com

To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2011 1:32 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever


I think it means a bad battery, should be 30+ seconds before it slows down 
noticeably. Could be a bad starter the slows down as it warms up?


Either way if it were my car and I could get a reliable helper (not always 
that easy) I'd be up for a tow start at this point.


-Curt

Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 09:56:13 -0700
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever
Message-ID:
   CABHyH=b20kg156tj-+sr4rr4gdhj4py4i8dme1n-crgcwhc...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com 
wrote:

Should stink of fuel too while you're trying.


It does.



Have you tried jumping the car off another while cranking?


Yep, no difference.

How long is a long time cranking? A good battery ought to be able to 
crank for a

solid minute anyway.


It can go about fifteen seconds steadily before it begins to slow
down.  I'm guessing that means good compression (since otherwise the
starter wouldn't be fighting so hard to turn the engine)?  Or could it
mean clogged exhaust?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Mitch Haley

I was wondering if it could be starter winding resistance going up with heat.

Mitch.


Curt Raymond wrote:

I think it means a bad battery, should be 30+ seconds before it slows down 
noticeably. Could be a bad starter the slows down as it warms up?



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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Mitch Haley

Curt Raymond wrote:
Ooooh another thought, whats the rate on slow charge on your charger? On mine its 2a. Group 49 batteries at 900-1100cca but that doesn't tell us the long term capacity. 


I was thinking 135 minutes at 25A.
Interstate says 130 minutes for Megatron MT-49.
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_eStore/content/product_info/auto_interstate_f.asp

Figure somewhere around 1500-2000 minutes at 2A for a full charge from near 
dead.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
That's half way down, not all the way down!

I wouldn't concentrate on the GPs so much... in warm weather, especially
with a block heater, glowing until the relay clicks and cranking for a while
should be more than enough.

An addition, the engine should be turning over pretty quickly if its warmed
up by the heater.  If not, clean you battery ground cable on both sides.  If
its corroded, it makes a big difference.

Jaime


On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 12:02 PM, Alex Chamberlain
apchamberl...@gmail.comwrote:

 Thanks for all the help, guys!  To address all the advice and questions at
 once:

 - Jamie asked about the block heater.  Great idea.  It is an '87 so
 has the factory block heater, and I have the cable, just never
 bothered to hook it up.  Right now the car is sitting on grass at an
 angle, so it's not exactly the best place to jack it up to get
 underneath and install the cable, but I'll see if I can tow it into my
 driveway and do that.

 - Jamie and Peter asked about holding the accelerator down all the
 way, and about repeatedly glowing while cranking.  I'm doing both,
 essentially following a cold-weather start procedure.  Hold the pedal
 down, turn key to glow position, make sure the glow light is on, wait
 until I hear the relay click off, crank for fifteen seconds or so,
 turn the key off, glow again, crank again, etc.  If the glow light is
 on, doesn't that mean I'm getting power to the GPs?  I will check for
 voltage there, regardless.  What's the easiest, safest way to bypass
 the GP relay and power the GPs directly off the battery?  Run a fat
 wire from the positive terminal to the GP fuse?

 - Loren and others mentioned air flow.  The air filter's clean and
 there's no sign of mouse or wasp activity on either side of it.  As
 far as the other end, I never heard of mice or anything else clogging
 an exhaust, but I'll have someone else crank while I feel at the
 tailpipe for air movement.  There isn't any smoke coming out while
 cranking, but I can definitely smell unburned Diesel Purge (which is
 what I filled the new main filter with when I changed it).

 - Walt and Peter mentioned battery condition.  The battery is new and
 it's been on a Schumacher charger which has both slow charge and
 jump start modes.  I've been leaving it on slow charge mode
 overnight, then flipping the switch to jump start and leaving it
 there for half a minute before trying to start the car.  I've also
 tried hooking up another running car with a healthy electrical system
 so that the two batteries are working in parallel.   That didn't seem
 to make any difference.

 - Peter suggested a dying starter that isn't turning quite fast
 enough.  The car sounds like it is cranking at the usual speed, but I
 could be deceived, I guess.  What's a good way to tell if the starter
 is healthy, other than dropping $250 on a new one?  Could I use a
 non-contact tachometer on one of the pulleys while cranking?  Harbor
 freight has one for $30:
 http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-photo-sensor-tachometer-66632.html

 - Loren described a definitive test for air leaks in the fuel lines.
 I'll do that.

 Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Luther's Benz
I second the pull start at this point. nbsp;It will eliminate intake, exhaust, 
and fuel as the issue. nbsp;Then it could be electrical.

Luther

On Aug 17, 2011 12:32 PM, Curt Raymond lt;curtlud...@yahoo.comgt; wrote: 

I think it means a bad battery, should be 30+ seconds before it slows down 
noticeably. Could be a bad starter the slows down as it warms up?



Either way if it were my car and I could get a reliable helper (not always that 
easy) I'd be up for a tow start at this point.



-Curt



Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 09:56:13 -0700

From: Alex Chamberlain lt;apchamberl...@gmail.comgt;

To: Mercedes Discussion List lt;mercedes@okiebenz.comgt;

Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

Message-ID:

lt;CABHyH=b20kg156tj-+sr4rr4gdhj4py4i8dme1n-crgcwhc...@mail.gmail.comgt;

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1



On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 9:48 AM, Curt Raymond lt;curtlud...@yahoo.comgt; 
wrote:

gt; Should stink of fuel too while you're trying.



It does.



gt;

gt; Have you tried jumping the car off another while cranking?



Yep, no difference.



gt; How long is a long time cranking? A good battery ought to be able to 
crank for a

gt; solid minute anyway.



It can go about fifteen seconds steadily before it begins to slow

down.  I'm guessing that means good compression (since otherwise the

starter wouldn't be fighting so hard to turn the engine)?  Or could it

mean clogged exhaust?



Alex



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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Fmiser
 Curt Raymond wrote:

 I think it means a bad battery, should be 30+ seconds before
 it slows down noticeably. Could be a bad starter the slows
 down as it warms up?
 
 Either way if it were my car and I could get a reliable helper
 (not always that easy) I'd be up for a tow start at this point.

I think I would rig 24V to spin the starter.

*CAUTION*  This requires being ABSOLUTELY SURE that none of the
24V gets to any other electrical system in the car.

But I don't have an easy time getting a reliable helper.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Rolf
Oh thats a pretty bad idea IMO. Much better off running in parallel for 
extended run time. Not to mention burning out the starter. The motoroam 
has a 24v starter its 2x the size of the 617 started which is already 
huge to me.


-Rolf

On 08/17/2011 03:20 PM, Fmiser wrote:

Curt Raymond wrote:
I think it means a bad battery, should be 30+ seconds before
it slows down noticeably. Could be a bad starter the slows
down as it warms up?

Either way if it were my car and I could get a reliable helper
(not always that easy) I'd be up for a tow start at this point.

I think I would rig 24V to spin the starter.

*CAUTION*  This requires being ABSOLUTELY SURE that none of the
24V gets to any other electrical system in the car.

But I don't have an easy time getting a reliable helper.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Jaime Kopchinski
Whoa whoa whoa... lets just take a step back now and look at whats going on
here.

This was a running car before the filter change, right?

Now, with a new filter, it doesn't run any more.

DO NOT tow start it, apply 24V, or any other tricks.  This is not a car
that has sat for 20 years!!

Step back over the basics and review all your work.  Remove the filter,
check all the o rings, check the seals, make sure its full of fuel.

Something simple is wrong here.

Jaime


On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 3:20 PM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:

  Curt Raymond wrote:

  I think it means a bad battery, should be 30+ seconds before
  it slows down noticeably. Could be a bad starter the slows
  down as it warms up?
 
  Either way if it were my car and I could get a reliable helper
  (not always that easy) I'd be up for a tow start at this point.

 I think I would rig 24V to spin the starter.

 *CAUTION*  This requires being ABSOLUTELY SURE that none of the
 24V gets to any other electrical system in the car.

 But I don't have an easy time getting a reliable helper.

 --   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Dieselhead
Thanks for all the help, guys!  To address all the advice and 
questions at once:


- Jamie asked about the block heater.  Great idea.  It is an '87 so
has the factory block heater, and I have the cable, just never
bothered to hook it up.  Right now the car is sitting on grass at an
angle, so it's not exactly the best place to jack it up to get
underneath and install the cable, but I'll see if I can tow it into my
driveway and do that.

- Jamie and Peter asked about holding the accelerator down all the
way, and about repeatedly glowing while cranking.  I'm doing both,
essentially following a cold-weather start procedure.  Hold the pedal
down, turn key to glow position, make sure the glow light is on, wait
until I hear the relay click off, crank for fifteen seconds or so,
turn the key off, glow again, crank again, etc.  If the glow light is
on, doesn't that mean I'm getting power to the GPs?  I will check for
voltage there, regardless.  What's the easiest, safest way to bypass
the GP relay and power the GPs directly off the battery?  Run a fat
wire from the positive terminal to the GP fuse?


Just check for voltage at the GP terminals.  If it is not 11.5V then 
you have a problem.  It is more likely on or off.  If there is no 
voltage, then change the fuse or relay.




- Loren and others mentioned air flow.  The air filter's clean and
there's no sign of mouse or wasp activity on either side of it.  As
far as the other end, I never heard of mice or anything else clogging
an exhaust, but I'll have someone else crank while I feel at the
tailpipe for air movement.  There isn't any smoke coming out while
cranking, but I can definitely smell unburned Diesel Purge (which is
what I filled the new main filter with when I changed it).


No smoke is a bad sign.  Seems like lack of fuel.  Back to checking 
for bubbles on the discharge side of the fuel filter.




- Walt and Peter mentioned battery condition.  The battery is new and
it's been on a Schumacher charger which has both slow charge and
jump start modes.  I've been leaving it on slow charge mode
overnight, then flipping the switch to jump start and leaving it
there for half a minute before trying to start the car.  I've also
tried hooking up another running car with a healthy electrical system
so that the two batteries are working in parallel.   That didn't seem
to make any difference.

- Peter suggested a dying starter that isn't turning quite fast
enough.  The car sounds like it is cranking at the usual speed, but I
could be deceived, I guess.  What's a good way to tell if the starter
is healthy, other than dropping $250 on a new one?  Could I use a
non-contact tachometer on one of the pulleys while cranking?  Harbor
freight has one for $30:
http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-photo-sensor-tachometer-66632.html

- Loren described a definitive test for air leaks in the fuel lines.
I'll do that.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 12:30 PM, Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com wrote:
 Whoa whoa whoa... lets just take a step back now and look at whats going on
 here.
 This was a running car before the filter change, right?
 Now, with a new filter, it doesn't run any more.

It was running a year ago. Loren's right that I should've tried to
start it before changing the filters, but no use crying over spilt
diesel.  The basic facts are that it ran fine when parked as the
expression goes, I changed the filters, put in a new battery, and now
it won't start.

Sounds like the leading theories are:

- Bad or not fully charged battery---It's new, and I'll leave it on
the charger for two days before I try again.

- GPs not getting power---easy check.

- Not cranking long enough---I tried cranking for longer than 15
seconds.  The engine slowed down at around 20 seconds, but then
started catching periodically just like it has been before (firing two
or three times and then just cranking).  At about 30 seconds I quit
because there was the unmistakable smell of overheated wiring coming
from the driver's side of the engine near the firewall---isn't that
where the starter is?  If I try again with a battery that is fully
charged, and the starter still slows down noticeably after 15 seconds,
then does that definitively mean the starter is failing (increased
current draw as it heats up)?

- Air leaks, meaning no fuel delivery to injectors despite seeing fuel
at the return line on the filter and at the hard lines when either is
loosened---I can smell the exhaust after cranking a while, but it
really doesn't smoke to speak of, although I find unburned diesel
smoke is harder to see on a warm clear day.  I will take out the fuel
filter center bolt and make sure that the o-rings are where they
should be, and also check for air leaks elsewhere.

Could airflow be obstructed on the exhaust side?  I don't know how I
would begin to check for that beyond sticking a wire or something up
the tailpipe to dislodge wasp or mouse nests.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Luther's Benz
If you smell warm wiring at 30seconds, something is loose or worn in the 
wiring. nbsp;Check ALL connections from the battery to the starter. nbsp;Do 
this before condemning the starter

Luther

On Aug 17, 2011 5:40 PM, Alex Chamberlain lt;apchamberl...@gmail.comgt; 
wrote: 

On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 12:30 PM, Jaime Kopchinski lt;jaime...@gmail.comgt; 
wrote:

gt; Whoa whoa whoa... lets just take a step back now and look at whats going on

gt; here.

gt; This was a running car before the filter change, right?

gt; Now, with a new filter, it doesn't run any more.



It was running a year ago. Loren's right that I should've tried to

start it before changing the filters, but no use crying over spilt

diesel.  The basic facts are that it ran fine when parked as the

expression goes, I changed the filters, put in a new battery, and now

it won't start.



Sounds like the leading theories are:



- Bad or not fully charged battery---It's new, and I'll leave it on

the charger for two days before I try again.



- GPs not getting power---easy check.



- Not cranking long enough---I tried cranking for longer than 15

seconds.  The engine slowed down at around 20 seconds, but then

started catching periodically just like it has been before (firing two

or three times and then just cranking).  At about 30 seconds I quit

because there was the unmistakable smell of overheated wiring coming

from the driver's side of the engine near the firewall---isn't that

where the starter is?  If I try again with a battery that is fully

charged, and the starter still slows down noticeably after 15 seconds,

then does that definitively mean the starter is failing (increased

current draw as it heats up)?



- Air leaks, meaning no fuel delivery to injectors despite seeing fuel

at the return line on the filter and at the hard lines when either is

loosened---I can smell the exhaust after cranking a while, but it

really doesn't smoke to speak of, although I find unburned diesel

smoke is harder to see on a warm clear day.  I will take out the fuel

filter center bolt and make sure that the o-rings are where they

should be, and also check for air leaks elsewhere.



Could airflow be obstructed on the exhaust side?  I don't know how I

would begin to check for that beyond sticking a wire or something up

the tailpipe to dislodge wasp or mouse nests.



Alex



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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 4:23 PM, Luther's Benz benz-n-h...@gulseth.net wrote:
 If you smell warm wiring at 30seconds, something is loose or worn in the 
 wiring.
 Check ALL connections from the battery to the starter.
 Do this before condemning the starter

Ugh.  OK, I'll drag out the electrical diagrams.  But if I see battery
voltage at the starter terminals when cranking, isn't that a pretty
sure check?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Hendrik Fay
It has been suggested to by pass the fuel tank and filter by using a 
clean container and a piece of fuel hose.

Whether this has been done or not, I do not know.
Perhaps the shut off mechanism is stuck.

Hendrik
who is off to pick up a machine from machine hospital

Jaime Kopchinski wrote:

Whoa whoa whoa... lets just take a step back now and look at whats going on
here.

This was a running car before the filter change, right?

Now, with a new filter, it doesn't run any more.

DO NOT tow start it, apply 24V, or any other tricks.  This is not a car
that has sat for 20 years!!

Step back over the basics and review all your work.  Remove the filter,
check all the o rings, check the seals, make sure its full of fuel.

Something simple is wrong here.

Jaime

  




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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Jim Cathey

What's the easiest, safest way to bypass
the GP relay and power the GPs directly off the battery?  Run a fat
wire from the positive terminal to the GP fuse?


Isn't a good one.  That fuse is 'hot' all the time.  The
internal relay contacts are what you'd need to assert.


What's a good way to tell if the starter
is healthy, other than dropping $250 on a new one?


Measure the current draw, a clamp-on DC ammeter is very
handy for these kinds of questions.  Compare to known
good car.

I'd pull-start it at this point.  Amazing how a bat to the
head like that gets the engine's attention.  If _that_ won't
do it you know you have a real problem, and it saves all kinds
of wear and tear on the battery and starter.

My brother and I dragged our Moline tractor for a mile or two
trying to pull-start it.  Which it did, after we put gas in it!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Jim Cathey

It can only crank for 15
seconds before slowing down significantly.  Defective battery?  (It's
brand new, NAPA's mid-priced line.)


Group 49?  15 seconds is sucky.


Defective charger?  (I'll try one
of my Battery Tenders instead of the Schumacher.)  What else?


Defective starter?  Can measure current draw (DC clamp-on ammeter)
to determine this.  Bad heavy wiring, either power or ground strap?
Can measure voltage drop between battery post and other end at starter
while starting, the drop in the wires thus measured should be small.
Also measure battery voltage while starting.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Peter Frederick
That starter will draw 900 amps on a cold engine -- if the battery  
won't crank it full speed for more than 15 sec it's not big enough.


As Jim said, but really must be a new series 49 battery.  Others will  
fit, but you need the deep cycle characteristics and high current  
draw capability of a series 49 to start one up.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Tim C
I wouldn't go too far with electrical detail, if it's a new battery of
proper size I would think it will be obvious - starter wire to chassis or
the like.  I would bet you can feel a hot wire, then figure out where it's
shorting.

Another possibility - I had a bad battery connection in my Volvo, it was
enough for low currents but would barely conduct at high.  Messing around
with the battery cables caused it to start, eventually I pulled back the
insulation and the wire fell in half with just a few stands remaining.  Only
real clue was that the wire was easy to bend at a certain point.  A clue
might be if the battery was at a pretty high voltage after a marathon
starting session.

Best,
-Tim
On Aug 17, 2011 7:38 PM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 4:23 PM, Luther's Benz benz-n-h...@gulseth.net
wrote:
 If you smell warm wiring at 30seconds, something is loose or worn in the
wiring.
 Check ALL connections from the battery to the starter.
 Do this before condemning the starter

 Ugh. OK, I'll drag out the electrical diagrams. But if I see battery
 voltage at the starter terminals when cranking, isn't that a pretty
 sure check?

 Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread OK Don
I've had starting problems due to a poor connection on the chassis end of
the grounding strap between the engine and the chassis, but this was on the
115 chassis cars. I cleaned and re-assembled with new bolts (on the chassis
end), and added a second strap on the other side of the engine. Never had a
problem again. YMMV.

On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 9:50 PM, Tim C bb...@crone.us wrote:

 I wouldn't go too far with electrical detail, if it's a new battery of
 proper size I would think it will be obvious - starter wire to chassis or
 the like.  I would bet you can feel a hot wire, then figure out where it's
 shorting.

 Another possibility - I had a bad battery connection in my Volvo, it was
 enough for low currents but would barely conduct at high.  Messing around
 with the battery cables caused it to start, eventually I pulled back the
 insulation and the wire fell in half with just a few stands remaining.
  Only
 real clue was that the wire was easy to bend at a certain point.  A clue
 might be if the battery was at a pretty high voltage after a marathon
 starting session.

 Best,
 -Tim
 On Aug 17, 2011 7:38 PM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
 wrote:
  On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 4:23 PM, Luther's Benz benz-n-h...@gulseth.net
 wrote:
  If you smell warm wiring at 30seconds, something is loose or worn in the
 wiring.
  Check ALL connections from the battery to the starter.
  Do this before condemning the starter
 
  Ugh. OK, I'll drag out the electrical diagrams. But if I see battery
  voltage at the starter terminals when cranking, isn't that a pretty
  sure check?
 
  Alex
 
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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-17 Thread Fmiser
 Alex Chamberlain wrote:

 On Wed, Aug 17, 2011 at 4:23 PM, Luther's Benz
 benz-n-h...@gulseth.net wrote:
  If you smell warm wiring at 30seconds, something is loose or
  worn in the wiring. Check ALL connections from the battery
  to the starter. Do this before condemning the starter
 
 Ugh.  OK, I'll drag out the electrical diagrams.  But if I see
 battery voltage at the starter terminals when cranking, isn't
 that a pretty sure check?

The voltage _drop_ across the battery-to-starter cable is a good
indication of current draw, which can be a clue for starter
condition.

I haven't ever tested a good 60x engine, so I don't know what is
normal for that system.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-16 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 7:05 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 As for Alex,
 1. crack the inj. lines at the injectors.
 2.  crack the return banjo fitting at the filter, or slip off the small line
 form the nozzles.
 3. crank until you get fuel at the return line.
 4. close the return lines
 5. crank until you get fuel at the nozzles.
 6.  when you get fuel at the injectors, close the lines.
 7.  Crank it again.

 If you don't get fuel at step 3, then search for air leaks in the fuel
 lines.  It is usually deteriorated rubber hose, but can be rust too.

Well, I have followed steps 1-7 three times.  Each time I get fuel at
steps 3 and 6.  Each time I've cranked the car until the battery ran
down three or four times, putting it on the charger overnight between
tries.  Still no start.  It will sound like three or four cylinders
are firing irregularly, but never quite enough to turn under its own
power.  The battery is fresh and I can hear that it's turning plenty
fast enough when first cranked.  So that makes a total of about a
dozen serious attempts at starting since changing the filters.  At
this point I feel like I'm just killing the starter.

I don't see any sign of leaky lines.  How would I test for air leaks
too small to see easily?

I thought of the glow plugs, but they are only a few years old
(replaced when the #16 head blew).  Resistance at the GP relay
connector is 0.5 ohm between the terminal and ground for all six
terminals.  I don't have a VOM with a wide enough DC amp range to test
the current draw, but I know that at least some current is being
pulled by the fact that the interior lights dim and the pitch of the
key-in buzzer goes lower when the key is in glow position (and the
idiot light comes on steady).

Help! I am about ready to push this car off a cliff (if I could get it
started to drive it close enough).

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-16 Thread Walt Zarnoch
Disable the glow system and give her some WD-40 into the intake. Safer
than ether, should still get her running.

At least it works with a 617.

Walt

On Tue, Aug 16, 2011 at 7:12 PM, Alex Chamberlain
apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 7:05 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 As for Alex,
 1. crack the inj. lines at the injectors.
 2.  crack the return banjo fitting at the filter, or slip off the small line
 form the nozzles.
 3. crank until you get fuel at the return line.
 4. close the return lines
 5. crank until you get fuel at the nozzles.
 6.  when you get fuel at the injectors, close the lines.
 7.  Crank it again.

 If you don't get fuel at step 3, then search for air leaks in the fuel
 lines.  It is usually deteriorated rubber hose, but can be rust too.

 Well, I have followed steps 1-7 three times.  Each time I get fuel at
 steps 3 and 6.  Each time I've cranked the car until the battery ran
 down three or four times, putting it on the charger overnight between
 tries.  Still no start.  It will sound like three or four cylinders
 are firing irregularly, but never quite enough to turn under its own
 power.  The battery is fresh and I can hear that it's turning plenty
 fast enough when first cranked.  So that makes a total of about a
 dozen serious attempts at starting since changing the filters.  At
 this point I feel like I'm just killing the starter.

 I don't see any sign of leaky lines.  How would I test for air leaks
 too small to see easily?

 I thought of the glow plugs, but they are only a few years old
 (replaced when the #16 head blew).  Resistance at the GP relay
 connector is 0.5 ohm between the terminal and ground for all six
 terminals.  I don't have a VOM with a wide enough DC amp range to test
 the current draw, but I know that at least some current is being
 pulled by the fact that the interior lights dim and the pitch of the
 key-in buzzer goes lower when the key is in glow position (and the
 idiot light comes on steady).

 Help! I am about ready to push this car off a cliff (if I could get it
 started to drive it close enough).

 Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-16 Thread Peter Frederick

Make sure the glow plugs are working.

Glow again when it starts to sputter.

Typically it will run on a few cylinders, stopping if you let off the  
starter, then gradually hit more and more and eventually run by  
itself.  You won't overheat the starter if it's firing on a couple  
cylinders, it's not working very hard.


Is there white smoke rolling out the exhaust?  Should be if there is  
fuel delivery.


You can try bypassing the fuel preheater -- switch the suction line  
directly to the lift pump.  Replace the hoses if not new.


You can also check for air leaks by removing the return line from the  
steel line and putting it in a can partially filled with fuel and  
have someone crank the engine -- if you get lots of bubbles, you have  
an air leak on the suction side.


You may have a weak starter.  They usually croak on a 603 by locking  
up solid, but it could be cranking slow.  Minimum is 100 rprn, you  
should have better than that.  Won't start otherwise, and you can  
crank til the end of time with a slow starter and nothing will happen.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-16 Thread Luther's Benz
Have you tried this start process with diesel purge from just under the hood? 
nbsp;
Are you in a situation where you can pull start it? nbsp;If it won't pull 
start, then fuel blockage/leakage is the problem.

All a diesel needs is fuel and air to run...wait, have you checked to make sure 
nothing made a nest in your air intake?

Luther

On Aug 16, 2011 9:12 PM, Alex Chamberlain lt;apchamberl...@gmail.comgt; 
wrote: 

On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 7:05 PM, Dieselhead lt;126die...@gmail.comgt; wrote:

gt; As for Alex,

gt; 1. crack the inj. lines at the injectors.

gt; 2. nbsp;crack the return banjo fitting at the filter, or slip off the 
small line

gt; form the nozzles.

gt; 3. crank until you get fuel at the return line.

gt; 4. close the return lines

gt; 5. crank until you get fuel at the nozzles.

gt; 6. nbsp;when you get fuel at the injectors, close the lines.

gt; 7. nbsp;Crank it again.

gt;

gt; If you don't get fuel at step 3, then search for air leaks in the fuel

gt; lines. nbsp;It is usually deteriorated rubber hose, but can be rust too.



Well, I have followed steps 1-7 three times.  Each time I get fuel at

steps 3 and 6.  Each time I've cranked the car until the battery ran

down three or four times, putting it on the charger overnight between

tries.  Still no start.  It will sound like three or four cylinders

are firing irregularly, but never quite enough to turn under its own

power.  The battery is fresh and I can hear that it's turning plenty

fast enough when first cranked.  So that makes a total of about a

dozen serious attempts at starting since changing the filters.  At

this point I feel like I'm just killing the starter.



I don't see any sign of leaky lines.  How would I test for air leaks

too small to see easily?



I thought of the glow plugs, but they are only a few years old

(replaced when the #16 head blew).  Resistance at the GP relay

connector is 0.5 ohm between the terminal and ground for all six

terminals.  I don't have a VOM with a wide enough DC amp range to test

the current draw, but I know that at least some current is being

pulled by the fact that the interior lights dim and the pitch of the

key-in buzzer goes lower when the key is in glow position (and the

idiot light comes on steady).



Help! I am about ready to push this car off a cliff (if I could get it

started to drive it close enough).



Alex



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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-16 Thread Walt Zarnoch
I second the check on cranking RPM, my 617 gets stage anxiety whenever the
battery dips below full charge.
Might be that the battery is jst old enough that it can't get the
starter enough juice to do a good start when there's some entrained air in
the system.

Walt, who's been there, seen that, changed battery  and had the problem go
away on a 617 NA
On Aug 16, 2011 10:52 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Make sure the glow plugs are working.

 Glow again when it starts to sputter.

 Typically it will run on a few cylinders, stopping if you let off the
 starter, then gradually hit more and more and eventually run by
 itself. You won't overheat the starter if it's firing on a couple
 cylinders, it's not working very hard.

 Is there white smoke rolling out the exhaust? Should be if there is
 fuel delivery.

 You can try bypassing the fuel preheater -- switch the suction line
 directly to the lift pump. Replace the hoses if not new.

 You can also check for air leaks by removing the return line from the
 steel line and putting it in a can partially filled with fuel and
 have someone crank the engine -- if you get lots of bubbles, you have
 an air leak on the suction side.

 You may have a weak starter. They usually croak on a 603 by locking
 up solid, but it could be cranking slow. Minimum is 100 rprn, you
 should have better than that. Won't start otherwise, and you can
 crank til the end of time with a slow starter and nothing will happen.

 Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-16 Thread Max Dillon
How did you get to this point? I forget the back story.

Are you flooring the accelerator while cranking?

You've got fuel, now there's air and heat. 

I agree with checking for clear air intake, don't forget exhaust is the second 
half of the breathing.

I think a pull start may be in order.

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 7:05 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 As for Alex,
 1. crack the inj. lines at the injectors.
 2.  crack the return banjo fitting at the filter, or slip off the small line
 form the nozzles.
 3. crank until you get fuel at the return line.
 4. close the return lines
 5. crank until you get fuel at the nozzles.
 6.  when you get fuel at the injectors, close the lines.
 7.  Crank it again.

 If you don't get fuel at step 3, then search for air leaks in the fuel
 lines.  It is usually deteriorated rubber hose, but can be rust too.

Well, I have followed steps 1-7 three times. Each time I get fuel at
steps 3 and 6. Each time I've cranked the car until the battery ran
down three or four times, putting it on the charger overnight between
tries. Still no start. It will sound like three or four cylinders
are firing irregularly, but never quite enough to turn under its own
power. The battery is fresh and I can hear that it's turning plenty
fast enough when first cranked. So that makes a total of about a
dozen serious attempts at starting since changing the filters. At
this point I feel like I'm just killing the starter.

I don't see any sign of leaky lines. How would I test for air leaks
too small to see easily?

I thought of the glow plugs, but they are only a few years old
(replaced when the #16 head blew). Resistance at the GP relay
connector is 0.5 ohm between the terminal and ground for all six
terminals. I don't have a VOM with a wide enough DC amp range to test
the current draw, but I know that at least some current is being
pulled by the fact that the interior lights dim and the pitch of the
key-in buzzer goes lower when the key is in glow position (and the
idiot light comes on steady).

Help! I am about ready to push this car off a cliff (if I could get it
started to drive it close enough).

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-16 Thread Walt Zarnoch
A pull start is more dangerous (to the car) than having the battery tested
at the FLAPS.

When in doubt, put the charger on the boost setting, wait 1 to 2 minutes,
then start cranking.

It's worked for me every time.

Walt
On Aug 17, 2011 12:26 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 How did you get to this point? I forget the back story.

 Are you flooring the accelerator while cranking?

 You've got fuel, now there's air and heat.

 I agree with checking for clear air intake, don't forget exhaust is the
second half of the breathing.

 I think a pull start may be in order.

 Max
 --
 Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

 Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 7:05 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 As for Alex,
 1. crack the inj. lines at the injectors.
 2. crack the return banjo fitting at the filter, or slip off the small
line
 form the nozzles.
 3. crank until you get fuel at the return line.
 4. close the return lines
 5. crank until you get fuel at the nozzles.
 6. when you get fuel at the injectors, close the lines.
 7. Crank it again.

 If you don't get fuel at step 3, then search for air leaks in the fuel
 lines. It is usually deteriorated rubber hose, but can be rust too.

 Well, I have followed steps 1-7 three times. Each time I get fuel at
 steps 3 and 6. Each time I've cranked the car until the battery ran
 down three or four times, putting it on the charger overnight between
 tries. Still no start. It will sound like three or four cylinders
 are firing irregularly, but never quite enough to turn under its own
 power. The battery is fresh and I can hear that it's turning plenty
 fast enough when first cranked. So that makes a total of about a
 dozen serious attempts at starting since changing the filters. At
 this point I feel like I'm just killing the starter.

 I don't see any sign of leaky lines. How would I test for air leaks
 too small to see easily?

 I thought of the glow plugs, but they are only a few years old
 (replaced when the #16 head blew). Resistance at the GP relay
 connector is 0.5 ohm between the terminal and ground for all six
 terminals. I don't have a VOM with a wide enough DC amp range to test
 the current draw, but I know that at least some current is being
 pulled by the fact that the interior lights dim and the pitch of the
 key-in buzzer goes lower when the key is in glow position (and the
 idiot light comes on steady).

 Help! I am about ready to push this car off a cliff (if I could get it
 started to drive it close enough).

 Alex

 _

 http://www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-16 Thread Dieselhead
Once you have fuel at #6, the bleeding is done.  From there on, it is 
let the nozzles fill up, and then they should deliver fuel.


A diesel needs fuel, air to compress, and compression to run when 
hot.  on prechamber engines, when cold, they need heat.  In order to 
get enough compression, the starter has to turn fast enough.


It is still possible that a leak is allowing air into the fuel. 
(Check for bubbles as in a prior post.)  It is possible that the glow 
relay went bad, or the fuse is bad but looks ok.  That would take out 
the required heat.  (check for voltage at the glow plugs.)


Air obstruction.  (check for obstructions between air intake and the 
crossover pipe after the turbo.)  (don't drop a socket in the turbo)


Several things can lead to poor compression.  rust forming on valves 
and seats, (or cylinder walls) during the dormancy.  wear/age,  slow 
turning starter.  Take the other suggestions posted today, organize 
them under fuel, air, compression, and heat and go through the list. 
There is a reason.  We just don't know yet what it is.


I think air leakage in fuel lines, no voltage to the GPs, and rust 
are most likely problems.  Someone a year or so ago had a leak after 
changing filters, and it turned out to be an oring on the fuel filter 
big bolt letting air into the system.


In the future, before working on a dormant engine, start it up first, 
and let it run a few hours, then change filters and fluids.  That 
way, rust can be cleaned up, and you will have proven the 
starter/battery system is ok.



On Mon, Aug 8, 2011 at 7:05 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 As for Alex,
 1. crack the inj. lines at the injectors.
 2.  crack the return banjo fitting at the filter, or slip off the small line
 form the nozzles.
 3. crank until you get fuel at the return line.
 4. close the return lines
 5. crank until you get fuel at the nozzles.
 6.  when you get fuel at the injectors, close the lines.
 7.  Crank it again.

 If you don't get fuel at step 3, then search for air leaks in the fuel
 lines.  It is usually deteriorated rubber hose, but can be rust too.


Well, I have followed steps 1-7 three times.  Each time I get fuel at
steps 3 and 6.  Each time I've cranked the car until the battery ran
down three or four times, putting it on the charger overnight between
tries.  Still no start.  It will sound like three or four cylinders
are firing irregularly, but never quite enough to turn under its own
power.  The battery is fresh and I can hear that it's turning plenty
fast enough when first cranked.  So that makes a total of about a
dozen serious attempts at starting since changing the filters.  At
this point I feel like I'm just killing the starter.

I don't see any sign of leaky lines.  How would I test for air leaks
too small to see easily?

I thought of the glow plugs, but they are only a few years old
(replaced when the #16 head blew).  Resistance at the GP relay
connector is 0.5 ohm between the terminal and ground for all six
terminals.  I don't have a VOM with a wide enough DC amp range to test
the current draw, but I know that at least some current is being
pulled by the fact that the interior lights dim and the pitch of the
key-in buzzer goes lower when the key is in glow position (and the
idiot light comes on steady).

Help! I am about ready to push this car off a cliff (if I could get it
started to drive it close enough).

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-08 Thread Dieselhead
Yes, the shutoff tested good, but the engine didn't shut down. 
Changed the shutoff, and it is fine now.


As for Alex,

1. crack the inj. lines at the injectors.

2.  crack the return banjo fitting at the filter, or slip off the 
small line form the nozzles.


3. crank until you get fuel at the return line.

4. close the return lines

5. crank until you get fuel at the nozzles.  On an OM 60x, you may 
get a spray if you only crack the nozzle 1/4 turn  or so.  Any more, 
and you will only get a weak dribble.  The 60x is not like the 61x 
engines, where the pump puts out a lot of fuel each pump stroke.


6.  when you get fuel at the injectors, close the lines.

7.  Crank it again.

If you don't get fuel at step 3, then search for air leaks in the 
fuel lines.  It is usually deteriorated rubber hose, but can be rust 
too.




I think Loren just had that issue with one of his fleet, but it was a won't
shut off issue vice a won't start issue.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Alex Chamberlain
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 3:59 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 10:53 AM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
wrote:


 Also check to make sure the shut-off lever popped up -- if it's stuck

down, it's not gonna start, ever!




How would it get stuck down?  Never seen that.  Is that a consequence
of improper installation of the shutoff unit, or is it a failure mode
that can happen spontaneously with the part in place?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-04 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 8:25 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
 I thinl I was wrong about the vacuum line to the shut-off valve - no vacuum
 = running, you have to allpy vacuum to stop the engine, though I could still
 be wrong, now I can't remember which way it is.


Um, yeah.  :)  The other way around would be a little bit of a safety
issue---a vacuum line comes loose in the doors and suddenly the engine
dies?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-04 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 8:25 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
 What Luther said -- crack all the lines, have someone else crank the engine
 (starting with a known good, fully charged battery). Close the lines
 one-by-one as you see fuel coming out. You will hear the cylinders firing as
 you close the lines. It will probably run by it's self once you close four
 lines, then the last two will be getting enough fuel to close them
 immediately.


OK.  Tried this morning.  The battery I have is not in great shape,
but enough to crank the car for thirty seconds continuously before it
starts to sound slow.  I cracked the lines at the IP and cranked for a
while.  I didn't hear any of the cylinders fire, but when I got out
and looked the lines were definitely dribbling nice clean diesel.  I
tightened the lines back up, gave the battery half an hour on the
charger, and then cranked again.  The car fired on three or four
cylinders, sounded like it was about to start, then the battery ran
down again.  (Then I had to go to work.)

Sound like I'm on the right track?

Re the shutoff valve issue: the shutoff valve cuts off fuel, not air,
right?  So the fact that I saw fuel dribbling after cranking with the
lines cracked open, means that I can rule out a shutoff valve jammed
in the stop position, right?  Or not?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-04 Thread Luther's Benz
You are on the right track, so keep going with that process as it sounds like a 
normal low fuel start and the shutoff is working correctly. nbsp;Hopefully you 
are charging the battery while at work, yes? nbsp;It should start and run 
under its own power next time. nbsp;Keep the pedal to the floor until the RPMs 
start to rise rapidly abovenbsp;2000-2500... nbsp;

Luther

On Aug 4, 2011 10:59 AM, Alex Chamberlain lt;apchamberl...@gmail.comgt; 
wrote: 

On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 8:25 PM, OK Don lt;okd...@gmail.comgt; wrote:

gt; What Luther said -- crack all the lines, have someone else crank the engine

gt; (starting with a known good, fully charged battery). Close the lines

gt; one-by-one as you see fuel coming out. You will hear the cylinders firing 
as

gt; you close the lines. It will probably run by it's self once you close four

gt; lines, then the last two will be getting enough fuel to close them

gt; immediately.

gt;



OK.  Tried this morning.  The battery I have is not in great shape,

but enough to crank the car for thirty seconds continuously before it

starts to sound slow.  I cracked the lines at the IP and cranked for a

while.  I didn't hear any of the cylinders fire, but when I got out

and looked the lines were definitely dribbling nice clean diesel.  I

tightened the lines back up, gave the battery half an hour on the

charger, and then cranked again.  The car fired on three or four

cylinders, sounded like it was about to start, then the battery ran

down again.  (Then I had to go to work.)



Sound like I'm on the right track?



Re the shutoff valve issue: the shutoff valve cuts off fuel, not air,

right?  So the fact that I saw fuel dribbling after cranking with the

lines cracked open, means that I can rule out a shutoff valve jammed

in the stop position, right?  Or not?



Alex



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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-04 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Thu, Aug 4, 2011 at 9:13 AM, Luther's Benz benz-n-h...@gulseth.net wrote:
 You are on the right track, so keep going with that process as it sounds like 
 a normal low fuel start and the shutoff is working correctly. nbsp;Hopefully 
 you are charging the battery while at work, yes? nbsp;It should start and 
 run under its own power next time. nbsp;Keep the pedal to the floor until 
 the RPMs start to rise rapidly abovenbsp;2000-2500... nbsp;


Excellent.  Thanks for the help, Luther, Don and everyone else.  I
have been holding the pedal all the way down when cranking, as if I
were doing a cold-weather start.  The battery is indeed on the charger
so hopefully she'll start tonight.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-04 Thread Michael Canfield
Cranking speed is very important.  If your battery is not holding a good
charge then that could be a lot of your problem.

Mike
On Aug 4, 2011 12:17 PM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Thu, Aug 4, 2011 at 9:13 AM, Luther's Benz benz-n-h...@gulseth.net
wrote:
 You are on the right track, so keep going with that process as it sounds
like a normal low fuel start and the shutoff is working correctly.
nbsp;Hopefully you are charging the battery while at work, yes? nbsp;It
should start and run under its own power next time. nbsp;Keep the pedal to
the floor until the RPMs start to rise rapidly abovenbsp;2000-2500...
nbsp;


 Excellent. Thanks for the help, Luther, Don and everyone else. I
 have been holding the pedal all the way down when cranking, as if I
 were doing a cold-weather start. The battery is indeed on the charger
 so hopefully she'll start tonight.

 Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-03 Thread Dave Walton
I'd crack the injection lines on top on the injectors to make sure they are 
getting fuel when you crank. That will let the air out. 

-Dave Walton



On Aug 3, 2011, at 12:59 PM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

 So my '87 300D was sitting since early last winter and I was worried
 about bugs growing in the fuel tank.  I put a dose of Biobor HF in the
 tank in the proportion recommended on the bottle for algae shock
 treatment (1/2 oz for 20 gal, IIRC).  I changed both fuel filters,
 losing quite a bit of fuel in the process, but I did fill up the
 middle of the canister filter with Diesel Purge before putting it on.
 
 I have run the battery down four or five times trying to get the thing
 to start again.  Each time it will fire once or twice every second,
 but mostly just crank without anything happening.  Kind of like rrr
 rrr rrr rrr klatta rrr rrr rrr rrr rrr klatta etc.  Do I have to
 drain the tank and look at the screen now?  The inline filter is
 clear.  What else could be wrong?  Or do I just have to keep trying
 until all the air that was introduced into the fuel system when I
 opened it is all purged?
 
 Alex
 
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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-03 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 10:18 AM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'd crack the injection lines on top on the injectors to make sure they are 
 getting fuel
 when you crank. That will let the air out.


Might be a dumb question, but if I do that and I get fuel dribbling
out at all injectors, can I rule out a fuel blockage in the tank or
elsewhere?  My two big worries right now are the possibility of having
to clean the tank screen, and some kind of contamination inside the IP
preventing proper fuel delivery.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-03 Thread Peter Frederick

If fuel is only dribbling out, you have a blockage or air in the lines.  

It should spray out of the fitting and pour down the injectors, quite a bit.  
just small drips means no fuel in the IP.

I always change the filters hot on these cars, still have to crank quite a bit. 
 I would take the main filter off and fill it completely with fresh fuel, not 
just the center part.  Takes forever for that lift pump to fill it.  If the 
pre-filter filled up properly when you started cranking, it's unlikely you have 
a fuel blockage.

Also check to make sure the shut-off lever popped up -- if it's stuck down, 
it's not gonna start, ever!

Peter

-Original Message-
From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
Sent: Aug 3, 2011 12:24 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 10:18 AM, Dave Walton walton.d...@gmail.com wrote:
 I'd crack the injection lines on top on the injectors to make sure they are 
 getting fuel
 when you crank. That will let the air out.


Might be a dumb question, but if I do that and I get fuel dribbling
out at all injectors, can I rule out a fuel blockage in the tank or
elsewhere?  My two big worries right now are the possibility of having
to clean the tank screen, and some kind of contamination inside the IP
preventing proper fuel delivery.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-03 Thread Max Dillon
I don't agree with that, I think the fuel will just dribble, that has been my 
experience.

Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:


If fuel is only dribbling out, you have a blockage or air in the lines.
 

It should spray out of the fitting and pour down the injectors, quite a
bit.  just small drips means no fuel in the IP.


-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-03 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 11:21 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 I don't agree with that, I think the fuel will just dribble, that has been my 
 experience.


That's my experience with diesels other than Benzes (the Shindaiwa
that powers my whole-house generator).  Luckily it has a manual primer
pump---the procedure after changing the fuel filter is to crack #1
injector line and twiddle the primer lever until fuel dribbles out,
then tighten the line and crank again---if that doesn't work, I've
found that I can leave the line cracked open and then crank until fuel
comes out (but it's never more than a dribble).

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-03 Thread dave walton
Maybe disconnecting the fuel supply line and sticking it in a bottle
of diesel would rule out a clogged tank screen?.

-Dave Walton


On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 2:27 PM, Alex Chamberlain
apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 11:21 AM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 I don't agree with that, I think the fuel will just dribble, that has been 
 my experience.


 That's my experience with diesels other than Benzes (the Shindaiwa
 that powers my whole-house generator).  Luckily it has a manual primer
 pump---the procedure after changing the fuel filter is to crack #1
 injector line and twiddle the primer lever until fuel dribbles out,
 then tighten the line and crank again---if that doesn't work, I've
 found that I can leave the line cracked open and then crank until fuel
 comes out (but it's never more than a dribble).

 Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-03 Thread Max Dillon
If you just now gave it the dose and changed the filters and lost a lot of 
fuel, I'd say the odds are good that your screen/tank are fine, or you wouldn't 
have lost the fuel.

Pull start time?

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

So my '87 300D was sitting since early last winter and I was worried
about bugs growing in the fuel tank. I put a dose of Biobor HF in the
tank in the proportion recommended on the bottle for algae shock
treatment (1/2 oz for 20 gal, IIRC). I changed both fuel filters,
losing quite a bit of fuel in the process, but I did fill up the
middle of the canister filter with Diesel Purge before putting it on.

I have run the battery down four or five times trying to get the thing
to start again. Each time it will fire once or twice every second,
but mostly just crank without anything happening. Kind of like rrr
rrr rrr rrr klatta rrr rrr rrr rrr rrr klatta etc. Do I have to
drain the tank and look at the screen now? The inline filter is
clear. What else could be wrong? Or do I just have to keep trying
until all the air that was introduced into the fuel system when I
opened it is all purged?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-03 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 10:53 AM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Also check to make sure the shut-off lever popped up -- if it's stuck down, 
 it's not gonna start, ever!


How would it get stuck down?  Never seen that.  Is that a consequence
of improper installation of the shutoff unit, or is it a failure mode
that can happen spontaneously with the part in place?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-03 Thread Max Dillon
I think Loren just had that issue with one of his fleet, but it was a won't
shut off issue vice a won't start issue.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Alex Chamberlain
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2011 3:59 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 10:53 AM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
wrote:

 Also check to make sure the shut-off lever popped up -- if it's stuck
down, it's not gonna start, ever!


How would it get stuck down?  Never seen that.  Is that a consequence
of improper installation of the shutoff unit, or is it a failure mode
that can happen spontaneously with the part in place?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-03 Thread Benz Hogs
Try starting it on diesel purge only.  Bypass the pre-filter and crack 
every injector line and close them off as you see the fuel dribble out. 
 If you crack them 1/8-1/4 turn, the fuel will only dribble or squeeze 
out where the pipe goes in the nut.


When you were trying to start it, did you hold the pedal to the floor? 
In my experience starting my OM603 after running out of fuel, it takes a 
LONG time to get the fuel from the tankalmost to the point of 
running the battery down, even on a warm day.  Make sure you have a 
fully charged battery next time you try starting it.


 Luther   KB5QHUForest Park, IL
'87 300SDL (312,xxx mi)
'91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi)

On 8/3/2011 11:59 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

So my '87 300D was sitting since early last winter and I was worried
about bugs growing in the fuel tank.  I put a dose of Biobor HF in the
tank in the proportion recommended on the bottle for algae shock
treatment (1/2 oz for 20 gal, IIRC).  I changed both fuel filters,
losing quite a bit of fuel in the process, but I did fill up the
middle of the canister filter with Diesel Purge before putting it on.

I have run the battery down four or five times trying to get the thing
to start again.  Each time it will fire once or twice every second,
but mostly just crank without anything happening.  Kind of like rrr
rrr rrr rrr klatta rrr rrr rrr rrr rrr klatta etc.  Do I have to
drain the tank and look at the screen now?  The inline filter is
clear.  What else could be wrong?  Or do I just have to keep trying
until all the air that was introduced into the fuel system when I
opened it is all purged?

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-03 Thread OK Don
It would get stuck down if the vacuum line was accidentaly knocked off the
actuator.

On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 2:59 PM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.comwrote:

 On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 10:53 AM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
 wrote:
 
  Also check to make sure the shut-off lever popped up -- if it's stuck
 down, it's not gonna start, ever!
 

 How would it get stuck down?  Never seen that.  Is that a consequence
 of improper installation of the shutoff unit, or is it a failure mode
 that can happen spontaneously with the part in place?

 Alex

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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-03 Thread OK Don
What Luther said -- crack all the lines, have someone else crank the engine
(starting with a known good, fully charged battery). Close the lines
one-by-one as you see fuel coming out. You will hear the cylinders firing as
you close the lines. It will probably run by it's self once you close four
lines, then the last two will be getting enough fuel to close them
immediately.

I thinl I was wrong about the vacuum line to the shut-off valve - no vacuum
= running, you have to allpy vacuum to stop the engine, though I could still
be wrong, now I can't remember which way it is.

On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 9:31 PM, Benz Hogs benz-n-h...@gulseth.net wrote:

 Try starting it on diesel purge only.  Bypass the pre-filter and crack
 every injector line and close them off as you see the fuel dribble out.  If
 you crack them 1/8-1/4 turn, the fuel will only dribble or squeeze out where
 the pipe goes in the nut.

 When you were trying to start it, did you hold the pedal to the floor? In
 my experience starting my OM603 after running out of fuel, it takes a LONG
 time to get the fuel from the tankalmost to the point of running the
 battery down, even on a warm day.  Make sure you have a fully charged
 battery next time you try starting it.

  Luther   KB5QHUForest Park, IL
 '87 300SDL (312,xxx mi)
 '91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi)
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.comhttp://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] 603 filter change, cranking forever

2011-08-03 Thread Benz Hogs

Vacuum = shutoff
ambient air pressure = run

BUT, the shutoff can get stuck.  Take the vacuum line off and carefully 
blow pressure into the line to make sure it's not hungup...


 Luther   KB5QHUOak Park, IL
'87 300SDL (312,xxx mi)
'91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi)

On 8/3/2011 10:25 PM, OK Don wrote:

What Luther said -- crack all the lines, have someone else crank the engine
(starting with a known good, fully charged battery). Close the lines
one-by-one as you see fuel coming out. You will hear the cylinders firing as
you close the lines. It will probably run by it's self once you close four
lines, then the last two will be getting enough fuel to close them
immediately.

I thinl I was wrong about the vacuum line to the shut-off valve - no vacuum
= running, you have to allpy vacuum to stop the engine, though I could still
be wrong, now I can't remember which way it is.

On Wed, Aug 3, 2011 at 9:31 PM, Benz Hogsbenz-n-h...@gulseth.net  wrote:


Try starting it on diesel purge only.  Bypass the pre-filter and crack
every injector line and close them off as you see the fuel dribble out.  If
you crack them 1/8-1/4 turn, the fuel will only dribble or squeeze out where
the pipe goes in the nut.

When you were trying to start it, did you hold the pedal to the floor? In
my experience starting my OM603 after running out of fuel, it takes a LONG
time to get the fuel from the tankalmost to the point of running the
battery down, even on a warm day.  Make sure you have a fully charged
battery next time you try starting it.

  Luther   KB5QHUForest Park, IL
'87 300SDL (312,xxx mi)
'91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi)
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