[mk2-16v] 1991 Volkswagen Golf Country Chrome SYNCRO 4WD - cars & trucks - by owner - vehicle automotive sale

[Steven Arguello]

This caught my eye.

> https://newjersey.craigslist.org/cto/d/1991-volkswagen-golf-country/6448021170.html
>  
> 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/B60F692C-E9F2-45AB-AC4A-35A5C4E3E609%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] WTB working speedometer or odometer parts

[Steven Arguello]

I broke the red gear trying to fix the odometer for the 3rd time. Need the odo 
for an upcoming tsd rally.
Thanks,
Steve

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/EED1143B-6BD2-4D35-8849-CAE43EBCFAFE%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Bad O2 sensor?

[Steven Arguello]

The other day I drove through a couple of inches of standing water and since 
then about 30 seconds to a minute after starting it’ll buck and idle really 
rough, have no power for about 30 seconds to a minute then it clears up and 
runs fine. 
When it’s idling rough, I disconnect the sensor and it clears up. 
I’m thinking the O2 heater shorted out. 
Anyway, I ordered a new sensor. 

The biggest deal is that it’s a PITA to change out. 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/87776105-4185-427A-A518-492086609319%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Off topic Mt Washington Hillclimb Tickets

[Steven Arguello]

Yeah, but it was yesterday. 
Sorry. 


On Jul 10, 2017, at 12:07 PM, jlagn...@massed.net wrote:

Still available?

From: "Steven Arguello" 
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 8, 2017 12:13:04 PM
Subject: [mk2-16v] Off topic Mt Washington Hillclimb Tickets

I have two tickets to this Sunday morning's, Signal Corps spectating, I can't 
make it. They're free for the taking. 
I offered them to the organizers to donate, but they never responded. 
They're fully transferable. So it's legit. 
http://www.climbtotheclouds.com/
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/B75C8879-B1E1-47FC-A71C-A7DC2167B10A%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1761883134.12340778.1499702831556.JavaMail.root%40massed.net.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/9BAA40AC-A5C5-4EB5-AEB1-63016F67BAF9%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Off topic Mt Washington Hillclimb Tickets

[Steven Arguello]

I have two tickets to this Sunday morning's, Signal Corps spectating, I can't 
make it. They're free for the taking. 
I offered them to the organizers to donate, but they never responded. 
They're fully transferable. So it's legit. 
http://www.climbtotheclouds.com/

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/B75C8879-B1E1-47FC-A71C-A7DC2167B10A%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Fuel Pump Check Valve Part Number?

[Steven Arguello]

This is what I bought from AutohausAZ BUT never installed so not sure if it's 
the right one. 

11587010532Fuel Pump Check Valve
171044Fuel Filter; 172x89mm; 12mm Inlet x 14mm Outlet

On Dec 22, 2016, at 11:25 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:

Hey 16Vers,
 
Does anyone have the correct part number for the fuel pump check valve for a 91 
GTI 16V?

Looking to buy a new one to replace my very old and cruddy one.

While I am at it,  what tool do you all use to get to that nut that is obscured 
by the plastic housing?  A narrow adjustable wrench or something better?
 
Thanks,
 
Larry
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB1990197BA56D65427FE53356C0920%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/FC7E2104-66DE-4A38-B4F5-0CA5109A3CE1%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] SparkPlug tool fail

[Steven Arguello]

I'm a big believer in dielectric grease, even on the ceramic part so the boot 
doesn't stick. It'll also prevent the tool from sticking. Stuck boots=failed 
wires=more $ spent
Also always anti seize on the threads. 
In the picture, there looks like a metal washer/cap attached to the rubber part 
of the stuck tool. Could that be what's seized and not just the rubber? It 
looks very tight on the plug. Are there different diameter ceramic stems for 
spark plugs? Maybe I'm seeing it wrong. 
Anyway, best of luck. 

On Nov 27, 2016, at 11:54 AM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

There are locking extensions as well.  I have one of those I purchased due to 
the sockets getting stuck on the plugs in my 16v.


> On Nov 27, 2016 11:47 AM, "Holland Phillips"  
> wrote:
> I would try super glue gel (Loctite is probably the best) applied to the 
> inside of the socket that belongs to the rubber piece. Thoroughly clean the 
> inside of the socket with brake cleaner first and let it dry. Put the socket 
> firmly on to the plug/rubber piece and let it cure for a while. 
> On the extension problem, the detent balls tend to weaken over time/use. I 
> used to replace my Craftsman extensions every few years, usually after 
> experiencing problems with removing plugs from my 16V. 
> There are spark plug sockets available from some of the specialty tool 
> manufacturers that work better than the ones that use the rubber inserts. I 
> had SK plug sockets which were better than Craftsman. 
> I just saw some magnetic plug sockets available on eBay, which might be worth 
> a try.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> 
>> On Nov 27, 2016 08:19, "Larry Velez"  wrote:
>> Hey 16vers,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Yesterday I spent some time on my 16V’s never ending journey to revival.  
>> With the help of a new local friend (who has four 16V Scirrocos) we 
>> reinstalled the restored main fuel pump and McGuyvered transfer pump.  Two 
>> nights ago I removed the spark plugs and poured a cap full of new engine oil 
>> down the plug holes so the engine would not restart dry when we finally 
>> tried to start it.  Unfortunately yesterday when finally reinstalling the 
>> spark plugs,  the rubber boot for the spark plug removal socket stayed on 
>> the plug and after 30 minutes of trying to remove it – we were defeated.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> So close yet so far,  we were at the final two steps before trying to start 
>> the engine:  reinstall spark plugs and add fresh gasoline…
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Clearly the Craftman 5/8” (Part #43324)  spark plug removal tool is not of 
>> high quality.  I have snap-on 11/16” spark plug removal tool (S9727K) which 
>> seems of higher quality.   I will be ordering a snapon 5/8” spark plug tool 
>> and throwing my two other 5/8” plug sockets in the trash.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> So now my question – any ideas on how to get the rubber piece out?   The 
>> spark plug tool won’t grab the plug to screw it out and won’t hold onto the 
>> rubber to pull it out.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I am thinking glue might work but I am also afraid of getting the socket 
>> stuck down there – any tricks to get the socket to stick to the extension?   
>> Does anyone have an extension welded onto the socket to avoid the socket 
>> getting stuck down there?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Any ideas would be welcome.
>> 
>> Pictures of incident:  https://goo.gl/photos/AqU6SiPWRHewd3Np9
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Larry
>> 
>> 91 GTI 16V
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/BY2PR04MB1990675EC0C7BB763ADF3D3FC08B0%40BY2PR04MB1990.namprd04.prod.outlook.com.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKB%3DqdHQ_eLabQoFx1-DdbDu7gjRHBX11GSN8rZ%3Dp%3DMMRsQ%40mail.gmail.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://g

[mk2-16v] Brake pedal feel- not so good

[Steven Arguello]

In the ’90’s I had a Volvo 740 piece of crap that I loved, mostly because of 
the brakes and the pedal feel. I’ve bled the brakes on the GTi so many times 
that the fluid is brand-new clear now. And it still feels a little spongy. I 
have it in my head that it’s due to the proportioning valve on the rear axle. I 
freed and cleaned it up, but I can’t really test if it’s working correctly. So 
I want to bypass it using female/ female couplers. It might or might not make 
the pedal feel better, but it should make it easier for the rears to lock up. 
I’ll fix that with a proportioning valve. 
And lastly I’d change out the hoses.
Any thoughts?

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/0DAEAD48-31AD-4CA0-A860-93FD2870E5BE%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Hatch struts

[Steven Arguello]

Scored a new pair of hatch struts, the instructions only say to install the 
same way the old ones were. I don’t trust the PO too much. What is the correct 
way, thick side up or down?
Thanks

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/94FCCE5E-949A-49A6-A087-A3A0D17D68FB%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Bentley Online (most of it)

[Steven Arguello]

Not sure what the legality or even the karma is regarding this, but it’s a lot 
easier for me to go here rather than fire up my version.

http://vwts.ru/vw_doc/eva2/

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/03D2A456-C38A-49E5-A036-CB51C2E9406A%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Struts & Springs

[Steven Arguello]

Excellent, this is what I had in mind, I thought all cars were like this from 
factory.
Thanks all.



> On Apr 25, 2016, at 7:39 PM, Holland Phillips  
> wrote:
> 
> I'm pretty sure that from the factory, all four lower strut bolts are 
> identical. I recall that New Dimensions used to sell the special bolts which 
> provide the adjustabilty. They were sold in pairs, since most people were 
> just interested in the ability to set the camber to factory specs, or to add 
> a small amount of negative camber. I wanted more negative camber than just 
> one bolt provided, so I bought two pair, which allowed me to get a bit more 
> negative camber. I seem to recall that some VW dealer parts departments sold 
> the bolts as well under a factory part number. I think the intention was to 
> allow setting camber after collision repairs.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Apr 25, 2016 16:23, "Jack Simon"  > wrote:
> The bolts and nuts that hold the strut to the wheel bearing housing are one 
> of two sizes, I believe the size of the shaft of the bolt is 11mm and 12mm, 
> the thinner one allowing for camber adjustment. Torque nuts with 19mm hex 
> head to 59 ft. lb. and torque the 18mm hex head to 70 ft. lb. Any VW dealer 
> with a decent parts department old timer (if there are any left!) can help 
> you out.  Both of them have a VW part numberJack 
> 
> On 25 Apr 2016, at 18:03, Holland Phillips wrote:
> 
> Bottom line is I would get 4 of the adjustable front camber bolts, and have 
> the car realigned after you install the bolts. 
> 
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com 
> .
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com 
> .
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v 
> .
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/D6F2216B-3023-4A7E-B508-9D59E8DC18C2%40gmail.com
>  
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout 
> .
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com 
> .
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com 
> .
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v 
> .
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CABrbKBkEJxb0aMqKP1OdefkiV7M8oNSga864wythuWfDv9-Kkg%40mail.gmail.com
>  
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout 
> .

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/ADA6DED9-1839-4DFC-A343-025CDBBAA5D7%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Re: how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

So you’re going to yank the 2.0 and swap in a tdi? I wonder which trans you 
have, there are several.   Give us a heads up when you eBay the old parts.
The last time I had mine smogged it was at a buddy’s shop, they were dyno 
testing them back then and it was close to passing with a hollowed out cat, so 
there’s a lot of headroom. They don’t dyno test anymore here in NJ and anyway 
I’m exempt now as it’s registered as a classic.
Also, if you do go back to a stock suspension, give us another heads up if you 
eBay the coilovers.


> On Apr 25, 2016, at 1:25 PM, damac2004  wrote:
> 
> i think i sold them for best offer on ebay for $75, had allot of interest.  i 
> took a bunch of pictures, etc.
> 
> i noticed on my emissions tests barely anything registered.  so i guess an 
> engine that is basically working with a tune up and new catalytic converter 
> will do that?  i think california cats have to have a 7 year 70,000 warranty 
> on them.  i wonder if it will last.  i don't care to find out, i will be 
> restoring the car for fun to get better at painting, will restore the ac, and 
> put it on stock suspension and let the next person enjoy it.  it has been so 
> annoying driving this thing on coilovers, im surprised the bumper is still 
> attached.  i do love the go kart feel of the chasis, but have been surprised 
> that the bigger tires are allowing me to peel out so easy.  i guess i'm going 
> to have to be carefull when i put the tdi in it.
> 
> On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 9:33:28 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
> Congrats.
>  What did you do with the old cams? Just curious. 
> 
> On Apr 25, 2016, at 12:21 PM, damac2004 > 
> wrote:
> 
> looks like i forgot to update my thread.  i ended up leaving the second knock 
> sensor hooked up to the engine which was between cylinder 2 and 3.  never 
> detected any pinging on this car.  drove the hell out of it, it seems happy 
> at current timing and isn't hesitating when i stomp on the pedal.  car is 
> definately slower without those mods, i thought they were bs.
> 
> i went to the 4th smog shop that also did repairs and pleaded for help to 
> find out why these other shops were jerks to me and kept telling me about the 
> check engine light.  
> 
> this guy was nice, listened to what i had to say and took my smog test out to 
> his tech.  he said the light and egr stuff was seperate, that i had a federal 
> emissions car and the light wasn't applicable but he saw other cars from this 
> generation that needed a light and thought it was interesting.  he smogged me 
> on the spot and i passed!
> 
> i don't think this bigger repair shop did me any favors?  but i'm glad to 
> finally have it done.  nobody could really answer why some shops said this 
> car needed a light.  one shop saw my fail and freaked on me saying i needed a 
> light blindly and wouldn't even look it up.  moral of the story is find a 
> good shop when it comes to any kind of service.  you can't believe these guys 
> at face value.
> 
> thanks for all the help!!!
> 
> i know i was freaking out since it was just me working on all this stuff.  i 
> really hate these gassers and can't wait to get to my mtdi conversions, never 
> will buy an old gasser again!
> 
> 
> On Friday, April 8, 2016 at 9:49:28 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:
> It may not see any codes until you put some miles on it. If the block has 2 
> knock sensors, it's a 9A block. The Motronic ECU wants to see both sensors. 
> The previous owner has left you a real mess. As I said before, I would just 
> find a test station that offers free retests and go for it. You really don't 
> have any other options at this point. The reduced power and smoother idle is 
> probably due to the stock cams.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Apr 8, 2016 20:31, "damac2004" <
> ...
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com 
> .
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com 
> .
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v 
> .
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/7d1cccff-08d8-42f2-bec2-10ef311a8128%40googlegroups.com
>  
> .
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout 
> .

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.

Re: [mk2-16v] Re: how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

Congrats.
 What did you do with the old cams? Just curious. 

On Apr 25, 2016, at 12:21 PM, damac2004  wrote:

looks like i forgot to update my thread.  i ended up leaving the second knock 
sensor hooked up to the engine which was between cylinder 2 and 3.  never 
detected any pinging on this car.  drove the hell out of it, it seems happy at 
current timing and isn't hesitating when i stomp on the pedal.  car is 
definately slower without those mods, i thought they were bs.

i went to the 4th smog shop that also did repairs and pleaded for help to find 
out why these other shops were jerks to me and kept telling me about the check 
engine light.  

this guy was nice, listened to what i had to say and took my smog test out to 
his tech.  he said the light and egr stuff was seperate, that i had a federal 
emissions car and the light wasn't applicable but he saw other cars from this 
generation that needed a light and thought it was interesting.  he smogged me 
on the spot and i passed!

i don't think this bigger repair shop did me any favors?  but i'm glad to 
finally have it done.  nobody could really answer why some shops said this car 
needed a light.  one shop saw my fail and freaked on me saying i needed a light 
blindly and wouldn't even look it up.  moral of the story is find a good shop 
when it comes to any kind of service.  you can't believe these guys at face 
value.

thanks for all the help!!!

i know i was freaking out since it was just me working on all this stuff.  i 
really hate these gassers and can't wait to get to my mtdi conversions, never 
will buy an old gasser again!


> On Friday, April 8, 2016 at 9:49:28 PM UTC-7, hollandphillips wrote:
> It may not see any codes until you put some miles on it. If the block has 2 
> knock sensors, it's a 9A block. The Motronic ECU wants to see both sensors. 
> The previous owner has left you a real mess. As I said before, I would just 
> find a test station that offers free retests and go for it. You really don't 
> have any other options at this point. The reduced power and smoother idle is 
> probably due to the stock cams.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Apr 8, 2016 20:31, "damac2004"  wrote:
> anybody know how long it should take to throw a code?  i just warmed the car 
> up one cycle on the driveway and it didn't throw any codes after, i'm 
> guessing i have to go take it on a nasty drive?
> 
> i am close to taking it in for smog.  i had to go back and trace wires, etc. 
> and fix previous owner crap.  i was worried about the moving timing light so 
> i got another distributor, cap, rotor and wires with the #4 sensor that i 
> didn't have, and the car still wanders with the light making it hard for me 
> to get exact :(  i tried to leave it in a happy spot based on sound.
> 
> it turns out i have 2 knock sensors attached to the block.  #1 inbetween 1 
> and 2 cylinders.  then #2 between 2 and 3!!!  i'm guessing this is incorrect 
> no matter the engine and either it gets one over on the left side, or a 
> second one to the right of the breather?  this is probably going to confused 
> the car if i leave it as is?
> 
> they had #2 sensor hooked up correctly to the harness.  but they hooked #1 up 
> to the ignition reference sensor from #4 spark plug, and they cut the harness 
> side of #1 knock sensor.  that damn car really did run great to me, it was 
> faster then than it is now, just a
> ...

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/259247e4-948a-40f8-9a99-a3bb576bde60%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/FF5E4525-F32F-4A67-99E9-D3AC5FD58BBD%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Starting a car that has not run in a long time

[Steven Arguello]

That guy sounds about right, that’s the way I’d do it with a ’62 Porsche that’s 
been sitting for a long while. Not exactly the same as a MK2 VW. Shellacked 
carbs are a lot easier to fix than a jetronic fuel dizzy. As far as what you 
could have done to avoid headaches, you would have had to drain the ethanol 
mixed fuel, fill it with a gallon or so of ethanol free fuel, run it for 15 min 
and then maybe add a fuel preserver, I don’t have much experience with those. 
Then drain the remaining fuel, or not depending on how much you trust the fuel 
preserver. The key being getting all the water out of the fuel system.

Sounds like you’re getting close. Good luck.


> On Apr 25, 2016, at 11:32 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> There is a website I frequent called Quora where people post questions and 
> others answer them.  For some reason this site has attracted many high 
> profile and top experts in many fields who regularly answer questions.
>  
> Today I ran across a question about whether it was safe to jump start an old 
> car that has been sitting:  
> https://www.quora.com/Is-it-safe-to-jump-start-an-old-car-that-has-not-been-started-for-many-years
>  
> 
>  
> Now that our cars are getting long in the tooth, there are bound to be more 
> and more of them that have been sitting.   One person’s summary seems like a 
> useful starting point.  I wish I had known this when I tried to start my 16V 
> which was sitting for a few months – if I had drained the old fuel – I might 
> have saved myself a world of headaches since then on my journey to get her 
> back on the road.
>  
> In any case, here is one of the answers to the question: 
>  
> There are some universal truths:
> 
> 1) you can't just start it and run it. The gas is not useable, the fuel hose 
> is very likely going to crumble and explode as soon as you get it under 
> pressure, there is unimaginable corrosion in the electrical contacts.
> 
> 2) bring a trailer. (In fact, there's a whole web site called Bring a Trailer 
>  just for that reason)
> 
> 3) prepare to spend a large amount of time and modest amount of money getting 
> it to the point that you can drive it enough to figure out what else it 
> needs. Last time I did this ('62 Porsche Cabriolet, not shown) here's what I 
> did:
> 
> a. drained the fuel tank, pulled it, had it cleaned at a radiator shop, 
> discovered leaks, had them fixed
> 
> b. replaced all the rubber fuel hose and fuel filter
> 
> c. pulled the carbs and mechanical fuel pump, cleaned and rebuilt both 
> (technically "all three" since there were two carbs)
> 
> d. pulled and tossed the plugs, plug wires, points, condenser, distributor 
> cap and coil, replacing them with new
> 
> e. made sure the brakes weren't stuck in the "on" position or rusted to the 
> drums (very common)
> 
> f. pulled the wheel cylinders, rubber brake hoses, and master cylinder and 
> rebuilt or replaced as was necessary, then reinstalled and bled the brakes
> 
> g. replaced the dry-rotted tires and valve stems
> 
> h. figured out if the car had been converted from 6V to 12V (it hadn't), got 
> a 6V battery, hooked it up and started chasing electrical shorts
> 
> i. drained what was left of the oil, cleaned the strainer, suctioned out the 
> oil filter can (hard body, with replaceable paper cartridge filter), filled 
> with 30w high-detergent oil, and cranked it for a while (5-10 min), checking 
> oil pressure with mechanical gauge as I did so. Drained oil, replaced oil and 
> filter.
> 
> j. connected the ignition electricals at the engine
> 
> k. primed the carbs, shot some starting fluid down the barrels, and fired it 
> up.
> 
> It still spat nasty black smoke, part of a mouse nest (maybe some mouse parts 
> too) and was generally unhappy for a while. I stopped it, facepalmed for 
> having forgotten to adjust the valves, waited until it was dead cold, did 
> that, and re-started.
> 
> After that, it was fine.
> 
> Well.
> 
> At least, until I decided to restore it
> 
> And that's pretty much how you need to approach your "old car, hasn't run in 
> a long time" car. Doing otherwise will eventually put you back on exactly 
> this path, perhaps with an intervening engine rebuild or hospital visit.
>  
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com 
> .
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com 
> .
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v 
> .
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/9c7152ea7ece4efc9446e8183c51c3b9%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.E

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

The picture looks just like what I thought it would, the signal wire is the one 
with the connector, the one going to the ground is the shield. I think that 
you're good to go. 
I would have shown you my loom, but it's very different and I thought it'd make 
things more confusing. 

Fire it up. 

One last thing, I'm pretty sure that your Motronic ecu has codes. I'm not sure 
how easy they are to read or if they help at all. 

On Mar 24, 2016, at 1:29 AM, damac2004  wrote:





i forgot to add this picture.  maybe i need to look closer but it looked like 
the connector wire is exposed and touching that main ground leg.  is it 
possible the connector has its own cover and is running inside inside the 
ground run?  i can try and cut some back and look at it.  i was expecting a 
special looking wire, my connector wire doesn't look special?



i don't really understand how to read the bently.  this is the only wire i see 
connected in the 20 pages to the firewall ground on that side.  it doesn't show 
a straight run to the control unit but it has a solid line crossing into the 
shielded wire icon on the 02 sensor connected leg.  i just assumed they were 
connected or else the ground wire from firewall side would go nowhere?



is this a pretty common harness on other gas vw's of the same era?  i wish i 
could see somebodies stock harness with pictures, maybe i can find one at 
picknpull.








> On Wednesday, March 23, 2016 at 5:21:42 PM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
> So you bought a new 3wire O2 sensor? If so, the black is the signal not the 
> ground. (The sensor is grounded through the exhaust?) 
> After the orange connector the signal wire back to the ecu is a little 
> thicker because it's a coaxial cable, it has a braided shield around the 
> signal wire. This shield has a ground and I believe that's the one going to 
> the firewall. That's why they look like 2 wires fused into 1. 
> (I think, my loom is different.) If I'm way off, I hope someone will let him 
> and me know. 
> 
> There should be an extra female connector for the 2nd knock sensor, unless 
> they cut it off. 
> 
> 
> On Mar 23, 2016, at 6:30 PM, damac2004  wrote:
> 
> hate to bug people but i'm just tidying things up with a new 02 sensor and 
> want to make sure before i start it up and time it.  i pulled the whole 
> harness that goes to the ecu just to make sure.  i do only have the 1 knock 
> sensor.  don't see any special shielded wiring.
> 
> the 02 harness side  has a black ground going to firewall that goes to the 
> ecu.  a small area is cleanly exposing wires and the 02 sensor signal wire 
> connector is fused to this ground leg.  no sign of solder or cuts, looks 
> original to me?
> 
> i also tried looking up my car in the bently and it matches a later gti 91 
> chasis according to them.  it shows the ground location over there on 
> firewall rather than the engine block.
> 
> i have the 2 white wires from 02 sensor going to stock connectors and their 
> colored wires into the ecu harness. 
> 
> bently shows the ground leg black wire and the 02 sensor connector black wire 
> making a left turn into that black ground wire.
> 
> so it seems it is wired correctly?   
> 
> i just don't understand how 02 sensors work, not sure if that black wire is a 
> ground wire on all car applications.
> 
> On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 1:24:08 PM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>  The wire you’re touching looks like the O2 signal. In your case it looks 
> like the shield might have been pulled off and ran to ground. (That’s a 
> guess, could be like that from the factory) The red and yellowish (sorry, I’m 
> a little color blind) are the O2 heater. The 2 whites and the lead with the 
> electrical tape go to the sensor. 
> I think.
> 
> There’s only one mounting point for a knock sensor on the 1.8, the 2.0 has 2. 
> If you have 2 and they’re both mounted to the block then I’d say that the 
> block is 2.0. I know we’ve gone back and forth on this, but I had the exact 
> opposite happen to me my ’88 had a 2.0 (the PO didn’t know) I found out when 
> I discovered the second KS.
> 
> On Mar 19, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Holland Phillips  wrote:
> 
> As Steve mentioned, the O2 sensor signal wire is shielded, similar to a 
> coaxial cable. It's basically a regular insulated braided copper wire of 
> about 20 gauge, with a braided shield covering it.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Mar 19, 2016 12:13, "damac2004"  wrote:
> im pretty sure i have 2 knock sensors?  im attaching a picture of what i 
> uncovered from electrical tape.  looks like a brown wire covered with black 
> that goes to top connector from drivers side, its duct taped along i guess 
> stock loom.  i assumed ground at first but wonder if this could be the 02 
> sensor signal wire?
> 
> and just what i thought.  i have a black ground wire coming from firewall 
> gong to the loom.  but an area is all cut away with exposed wiring.  the wire 
> from outside of loom was wrapped into this exposed ground bundle W

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

So you bought a new 3wire O2 sensor? If so, the black is the signal not the 
ground. (The sensor is grounded through the exhaust?) 
After the orange connector the signal wire back to the ecu is a little thicker 
because it's a coaxial cable, it has a braided shield around the signal wire. 
This shield has a ground and I believe that's the one going to the firewall. 
That's why they look like 2 wires fused into 1. 
(I think, my loom is different.) If I'm way off, I hope someone will let him 
and me know. 

There should be an extra female connector for the 2nd knock sensor, unless they 
cut it off. 


On Mar 23, 2016, at 6:30 PM, damac2004  wrote:

hate to bug people but i'm just tidying things up with a new 02 sensor and want 
to make sure before i start it up and time it.  i pulled the whole harness that 
goes to the ecu just to make sure.  i do only have the 1 knock sensor.  don't 
see any special shielded wiring.

the 02 harness side  has a black ground going to firewall that goes to the ecu. 
 a small area is cleanly exposing wires and the 02 sensor signal wire connector 
is fused to this ground leg.  no sign of solder or cuts, looks original to me?

i also tried looking up my car in the bently and it matches a later gti 91 
chasis according to them.  it shows the ground location over there on firewall 
rather than the engine block.

i have the 2 white wires from 02 sensor going to stock connectors and their 
colored wires into the ecu harness. 

bently shows the ground leg black wire and the 02 sensor connector black wire 
making a left turn into that black ground wire.

so it seems it is wired correctly?   

i just don't understand how 02 sensors work, not sure if that black wire is a 
ground wire on all car applications.

> On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 1:24:08 PM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
>  The wire you’re touching looks like the O2 signal. In your case it looks 
> like the shield might have been pulled off and ran to ground. (That’s a 
> guess, could be like that from the factory) The red and yellowish (sorry, I’m 
> a little color blind) are the O2 heater. The 2 whites and the lead with the 
> electrical tape go to the sensor. 
> I think.
> 
> There’s only one mounting point for a knock sensor on the 1.8, the 2.0 has 2. 
> If you have 2 and they’re both mounted to the block then I’d say that the 
> block is 2.0. I know we’ve gone back and forth on this, but I had the exact 
> opposite happen to me my ’88 had a 2.0 (the PO didn’t know) I found out when 
> I discovered the second KS.
> 
> On Mar 19, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Holland Phillips  wrote:
> 
> As Steve mentioned, the O2 sensor signal wire is shielded, similar to a 
> coaxial cable. It's basically a regular insulated braided copper wire of 
> about 20 gauge, with a braided shield covering it.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Mar 19, 2016 12:13, "damac2004"  wrote:
> im pretty sure i have 2 knock sensors?  im attaching a picture of what i 
> uncovered from electrical tape.  looks like a brown wire covered with black 
> that goes to top connector from drivers side, its duct taped along i guess 
> stock loom.  i assumed ground at first but wonder if this could be the 02 
> sensor signal wire?
> 
> and just what i thought.  i have a black ground wire coming from firewall 
> gong to the loom.  but an area is all cut away with exposed wiring.  the wire 
> from outside of loom was wrapped into this exposed ground bundle WITH the 02 
> sensor signal wire???
> 
> this is incorrect right?  ground wire is no the same as signal wire for 02 
> sensor it should make an isolated run somewhere?
> 
> whats wierd is all the wires but the loose one outside of loom seem to be 
> fused together.  i can't detect solder and the wires seem to be attached 
> firmly inside the black cover.  i can't even pull them apart, i would have to 
> cut which makes me think it was stock because i don't see breaks further down 
> the line.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 10:29:29 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
> On a typical 1.8 CIS-E the O2 signal wire is shielded and green to an 
> insulated male spade connector and there are 2 white heater wires into a 
> duplex VW connector. I’m not sure how big of a deal the knock sensor issue 
> that you’re going to have is. Your Motronic ECU is going to want 2 knock 
> sensor signals, I think it uses one as a baseline reference and the other 
> adjusts the spark timing. The 1.8 block only accepts one knock sensor.
> 
> On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:31 AM, 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v 
>  wrote:
> 
> This reminds me of a friend who adamantly stuck to the theory that VW and 
> Audi engines are the same because of the engine code. Instead of moving the 
> accessories, he installed the complete 1.8t from a VW into an Audi TT. 
> 
> At start-up, it fired immediately but idled at 2000 rpms. Why?  Because VW 
> had a 1" fitting underneath the manifold that Audi doesn't use. The moral is 
> to never assume and always check the obvious since the obviou

[mk2-16v] Finding Engine Letter Codes

[Steven Arguello]

It says that they’re easily viewed, maybe my eyes are worse than I thought 
because I couldn’t find these.

Finding Engine Letter Codes

The code characters which identify an engine can be easily viewed in the engine 
compartment. The code, GX for example, is given at the beginning of the engine 
number which is stamped on a flat area of the top of the engine block, just 
below the lower edge of the cylinder head and located approximately between the 
No. 3 and No. 4 cylinders. The location of the engine number stamp is shown in 
Fig. 1-4. Table a lists engine codes, application information, and major 
specifications.

Fig. 1-4.   Location of stamped engine number and identifying code.



Table a. GTI, Golf, and Jetta Engines


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CB69E57F-66AE-410A-8F2D-0D3BBA0FAA3D%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

 The wire you’re touching looks like the O2 signal. In your case it looks like 
the shield might have been pulled off and ran to ground. (That’s a guess, could 
be like that from the factory) The red and yellowish (sorry, I’m a little color 
blind) are the O2 heater. The 2 whites and the lead with the electrical tape go 
to the sensor. 
I think.

There’s only one mounting point for a knock sensor on the 1.8, the 2.0 has 2. 
If you have 2 and they’re both mounted to the block then I’d say that the block 
is 2.0. I know we’ve gone back and forth on this, but I had the exact opposite 
happen to me my ’88 had a 2.0 (the PO didn’t know) I found out when I 
discovered the second KS.

On Mar 19, 2016, at 3:20 PM, Holland Phillips  wrote:

As Steve mentioned, the O2 sensor signal wire is shielded, similar to a coaxial 
cable. It's basically a regular insulated braided copper wire of about 20 
gauge, with a braided shield covering it.

~Holland

On Mar 19, 2016 12:13, "damac2004" mailto:damac2...@sbcglobal.net>> wrote:
im pretty sure i have 2 knock sensors?  im attaching a picture of what i 
uncovered from electrical tape.  looks like a brown wire covered with black 
that goes to top connector from drivers side, its duct taped along i guess 
stock loom.  i assumed ground at first but wonder if this could be the 02 
sensor signal wire?

and just what i thought.  i have a black ground wire coming from firewall gong 
to the loom.  but an area is all cut away with exposed wiring.  the wire from 
outside of loom was wrapped into this exposed ground bundle WITH the 02 sensor 
signal wire???

this is incorrect right?  ground wire is no the same as signal wire for 02 
sensor it should make an isolated run somewhere?

whats wierd is all the wires but the loose one outside of loom seem to be fused 
together.  i can't detect solder and the wires seem to be attached firmly 
inside the black cover.  i can't even pull them apart, i would have to cut 
which makes me think it was stock because i don't see breaks further down the 
line.

 



On Saturday, March 19, 2016 at 10:29:29 AM UTC-7, stevenarguello wrote:
On a typical 1.8 CIS-E the O2 signal wire is shielded and green to an insulated 
male spade connector and there are 2 white heater wires into a duplex VW 
connector. I’m not sure how big of a deal the knock sensor issue that you’re 
going to have is. Your Motronic ECU is going to want 2 knock sensor signals, I 
think it uses one as a baseline reference and the other adjusts the spark 
timing. The 1.8 block only accepts one knock sensor.

On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:31 AM, 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v 
> wrote:

This reminds me of a friend who adamantly stuck to the theory that VW and Audi 
engines are the same because of the engine code. Instead of moving the 
accessories, he installed the complete 1.8t from a VW into an Audi TT. 

At start-up, it fired immediately but idled at 2000 rpms. Why?  Because VW had 
a 1" fitting underneath the manifold that Audi doesn't use. The moral is to 
never assume and always check the obvious since the obvious isn't always 
obvious 

- Matthew -

On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:03, Holland Phillips > wrote:

Progress! That's awesome! I don't remember the wire colors anymore, but yes, 
one of the wires to the O2 sensor is the heater wire. Hopefully, once you set 
the timing, it will improve things. However, until you get the O2 sensor hooked 
up correctly, it isn't going to run right. But at least you've resolved a lot 
of your issues. I'm happy for you.

~Holland

On Mar 19, 2016 01:38, "damac2004" > wrote:
well i capped off one hole with a bolt/washer and the other with a thick plate 
and gasket.  turned the key once to hear the pump prime and then tried to start 
the car and it started right up and idled a bit less than 900 rpm i think.

wow do i feel stupid.  

i got various little things to fix after poking around but my next problem is 
the cat/02 sensor.  i'm going to start fresh with my new cat and 02 sensor at 
this point.  i assumed the wiring was ok but noticed some previous owner 
electrical tape and there are numerous wires tied together into a bundle thats 
hooking up to a ground on the passenger firewall.  this includes a single wire 
that is zip tied to the outside of the loom coming from the drivers side.  
halfway it turns from black to brown with vw plastic connectors.

seems a little goofy at face value to have a single wire shoot all the way over 
there for ground right where all those wires meet. i have to look closer but i 
think something is screwed up if im reading right the 2nd 02 sensor connector 
is a heater wire NOT ground?  the other harness with 2 white wires goes into 
the loom.

i have a feeling car isn't even getting a signal from 02 sensor so i need to 
get that straight before installing new one.

i had the distributor at the old setups marks, i wi

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

On a typical 1.8 CIS-E the O2 signal wire is shielded and green to an insulated 
male spade connector and there are 2 white heater wires into a duplex VW 
connector. I’m not sure how big of a deal the knock sensor issue that you’re 
going to have is. Your Motronic ECU is going to want 2 knock sensor signals, I 
think it uses one as a baseline reference and the other adjusts the spark 
timing. The 1.8 block only accepts one knock sensor.

On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:31 AM, 'Matthew Yip' via MK2-16v 
 wrote:

This reminds me of a friend who adamantly stuck to the theory that VW and Audi 
engines are the same because of the engine code. Instead of moving the 
accessories, he installed the complete 1.8t from a VW into an Audi TT. 

At start-up, it fired immediately but idled at 2000 rpms. Why?  Because VW had 
a 1" fitting underneath the manifold that Audi doesn't use. The moral is to 
never assume and always check the obvious since the obvious isn't always 
obvious 

- Matthew -

On Mar 19, 2016, at 11:03, Holland Phillips mailto:hollandphill...@gmail.com>> wrote:

> Progress! That's awesome! I don't remember the wire colors anymore, but yes, 
> one of the wires to the O2 sensor is the heater wire. Hopefully, once you set 
> the timing, it will improve things. However, until you get the O2 sensor 
> hooked up correctly, it isn't going to run right. But at least you've 
> resolved a lot of your issues. I'm happy for you.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Mar 19, 2016 01:38, "damac2004"  > wrote:
> well i capped off one hole with a bolt/washer and the other with a thick 
> plate and gasket.  turned the key once to hear the pump prime and then tried 
> to start the car and it started right up and idled a bit less than 900 rpm i 
> think.
> 
> wow do i feel stupid.  
> 
> i got various little things to fix after poking around but my next problem is 
> the cat/02 sensor.  i'm going to start fresh with my new cat and 02 sensor at 
> this point.  i assumed the wiring was ok but noticed some previous owner 
> electrical tape and there are numerous wires tied together into a bundle 
> thats hooking up to a ground on the passenger firewall.  this includes a 
> single wire that is zip tied to the outside of the loom coming from the 
> drivers side.  halfway it turns from black to brown with vw plastic 
> connectors.
> 
> seems a little goofy at face value to have a single wire shoot all the way 
> over there for ground right where all those wires meet. i have to look closer 
> but i think something is screwed up if im reading right the 2nd 02 sensor 
> connector is a heater wire NOT ground?  the other harness with 2 white wires 
> goes into the loom.
> 
> i have a feeling car isn't even getting a signal from 02 sensor so i need to 
> get that straight before installing new one.
> 
> i had the distributor at the old setups marks, i will have to time it 
> tomorrow i couldn't actually see the marks well when trying the timing light 
> in the dark tonight.  car runs and is revving out with the stock chip/cams, 
> etc. but i noticed right away when i stab the throttle and it comes off the 
> idle switch there was a slight gurgle and then it revs out but is reacting to 
> pedal.   i'm hoping it needs to be timed and that will help.  
> 
> On Wednesday, March 16, 2016 at 7:56:36 PM UTC-7, damac2004 wrote:
> oh boy i am feeling stupid and think i have found the smoking gun here.
> 
> is it possible that having 2 open holes on the back of the intake manifold 
> made the car act this way?
> 
> this is not a california chasis so no egr stuff.  when i pulled the euro 
> manifold one hole had a bolt stuck through it with rtv and another hole was 
> held by bolts and gasket.
> 
> when i was transferring everything over to the stock manifold i remember 
> poking down the hole with brake cleaner hose and hit what i thought was solid 
> wall on each.  at the time never seeing egr stuff assumed it maybe would be 
> drilled out for a car that needed that hardware.
> 
> i had filled the holes up with brake cleaner with that side up and don't 
> think i paid close enough attention so this whole time it was installed on 
> the car like that.
> 
> tonight as i went to transfer the old parts back on as my last hope effort i 
> noticed some leakage when spraying brake cleaner and a light bulb went off.  
> so with those holes up if i spray one hole it fills the other hole up.  if 
> you leave the manifold sit the level of fluid just sits there.  when i went 
> to tilt sideways one way nothing happened but leaking out the top.  when i 
> tilted the other way 2 of the runners leaked the fluid out.
> 
> i don't know these cars at all.  since the car wasn't running right i never 
> wanted to let it run long since it wasn't acting like a real car.  my mom was 
> watching and said i see some smoke and it sounds funny but of course i told 
> her its just stuff burning off and that it wasn't running right.  couldn't 
> really take a cha

Re: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal? (Main Fuel Pump Assembly)

[Steven Arguello]

One of those banjo bolts is a check valve.

On Mar 4, 2016, at 6:38 PM, Holland Phillips  wrote:

McMaster has metric flange nuts, but the banjo bolts are going to be dealer 
only. McMaster does carry banjo bolts, but only in sae. I'm sure the sleeve 
will also be dealer only, unless you want to buy the proper size metric steel 
tubing and cut to fit. McMaster will have metric tubing.

~Holland

> On Mar 4, 2016 15:16, "Larry Velez"  wrote:
> Went to Fastenal this morning (7:30am open time works well for me) 
> 
> Picked up 4 of the 9 metal pieces on this thing.  All in stainless. 
> 
> Now just missing the banjo bolts, metal sleeves and a flange nut I am 
> surprised they didn't have.   True Value is my next stop and maybe McMaster.  
> Might as well put all new hardware on this thing at this point. 
> 
> I'll summarize what size it all is so someone in the future can order all 
> this stuff more easily. 
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Larry Velez
> Date:02/29/2016 12:44 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: RE: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal? (Main 
> Fuel Pump Assembly)
> 
> Thanks for the tips Jack.   I was thinking of using Por15 on the bracket 
> (Por15 seems to have a lot of fans) but I will also look at Rustoleum 
> Hammered.
> 
>  
> 
> I’ll check my local True Value for their fastener selection. These guys 
> also seem to have retail stores but I have never been to one:  
> https://www.fastenal.com/
> 
>  
> 
> I’ll see what I can find there,  and if not I’ll use Holland’s trick to paint 
> the tops of the fasteners and coat the threads with LocTite Blue.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
>  
> 
> -Larry
> 
>  
> 
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
> Jack Simon
> Sent: Monday, February 29, 2016 12:12 PM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] Rust Resistance on Restored Fasteners and Metal? (Main 
> Fuel Pump Assembly)
> 
>  
> 
> WD40 evaporates quickly but for temporary protection it would suit although 
> I'd use P'Blaster as it leaves a film that does not go away and actually 
> lubricates.  That's why it does such a nice job in protecting electrical 
> connections.  
> 
>  
> 
> Rustoleum Hammered would be my choice for the final paint, especially since 
> you already have it primered.  That stuff is a take-off of an old British 
> product called Hammerite that was sold here in the U.S. until VOC regulations 
> got it banned.  It is, however, back and Sherwin-Williams stores now carry 
> it.  
> 
>  
> 
> As far as replacement hardware goes, I've always used new Stainless nuts, 
> bolts, washers, etc. along with LocTite Blue (Medium strength) so that 
> disassembling them at some point in the future will be relatively easy.  
> Using LocTite RED usually requires a blowtorch and an Act of God to get them 
> loosened!!  Most local hardware stores that carry Hillman or Midwest 
> Fasteners products should be a good source.  After I retired I spent 10 years 
> working for a local True Value and their selection was all Midwest Fasteners 
> and rarely was I forced to go elsewhere.  Their "Nuts & Bolts" area consisted 
> of two 40 foot aisles lined on both sides with everything imaginable.  
> 
>  
> 
> Good luck...Jack
> 
>  
> 
> On 29 Feb 2016, at 11:25, Larry Velez wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any tips on how to move forward from this point would be welcome.   I will 
> spray the bracket with rustoleum now that it is primered and I sprayed the 
> fasteners with WD40 for now, but I’m thinking I need something more permanent 
> before it all goes back under the car.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/F3B91F00-9091-4BCA-BB05-C7FF9B283C9D%40gmail.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/ngb2qks89juua9o3ygr8jk4s.1457133341754%40email.android.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr..

Re: [mk2-16v] Ethanol problems resolved, finally; new stuff to fix

[Steven Arguello]

I was able to free up the plunger on all of fuel dizzies, but on one, fuel 
would come out of the metering ports no matter what position the plunger was in 
and the other, no fuel would come out at all. I tried everything I could think 
of, no change other than the plunger. I didn’t try to open it up any further, 
but I don’t think there’s any way to free them up without taking it apart. 
Maybe there’s a product that dissolves what I guess is aluminum oxidation. 

Now I have it under a cheap home depot plastic tarp and I did try to clean out 
those hoses including 6A that drains towards the back. I also was a little 
shocked at the price of a replacement seal $175. I’ll jump on it once warms up 
outside. 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/DF3F8133-7B0B-438C-A741-22D99C7921C7%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Ethanol problems resolved, finally; new stuff to fix

[Steven Arguello]

I have 3 different fuel distributor/pressure regulator/dpr sets. They were all 
at least partially messed up with that white flakey oxidation crap. I wasn’t 
able to get any of the messed up ones to work, but I finally found a 
combination of the 3 that worked. I also cleaned the injectors with my Dad’s 
old drafting pen ultrasonic cleaner. (not sure if that did anything). Car runs 
great. I now run the car at least every other day. Now I can move onto other 
issues.

The most urgent one is the 1/2” of water and ice in the spare tire well. I can 
tell by the high water line there was up to 3” in there. It seems wetter around 
the taillights. The sunroof seal is shot, is that the most likely place that 
water’s getting in? How big of a deal are they to replace?

Water’s also getting in through the doors, with the door panels off water drips 
out of the door onto the rocker. I’ve been replacing the plastic sheet just the 
way I found it, but I’m not sure that it’s the right way. Any tips on how to do 
it right?

Water might also be getting in around the windshield.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/B19230BB-233C-4A9C-8A44-2D1601D38362%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

Can the timing belt be off a tooth? That would explain why the spark timing is 
all the way to the right and why it's running rough. 
By the way, how's the oil pressure? Did you use the same oil pump?


On Feb 27, 2016, at 8:24 PM, damac2004  wrote:

thanks but this is the reason im all over the place and freaking out.  i 
checked and marked things before i took the car apart.  had this incident not 
happened i would have installed the cat and went to smog.

i have triple checked timing which is pretty simple.  all marks line up and 
dipstick in #1 confirms tdc.

the car simply wouldnt start with rotor lined up in prep for timing light so 
thats why i started moving it and rotated all the way to right it starts and 
barely idles.  i then tried other positions and car wont work it just cranks.

so im grasping at sraws now.  no clue if ecu or fuel system on top of airbox 
can be messed with.

i can switch throttle body since im desperate.  after that i dont know what to 
do except put all old stuff on and try again?

i will make a video monday and try and read bently fuel section

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/af7f8f0b-a3e0-49e8-bb0a-fb9e9b506e5c%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/EF0C36EB-F258-4865-A22C-092B8D130A2A%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

For what it's worth, I struggled lining the even the stock cams up, eventually 
I sent shots to this list and got the ok, but to me the teeth never matched up 
exactly, it was always 1/2 tooth off. 

On Feb 13, 2016, at 5:40 PM, stan finch  wrote:

i was tinkering more today and it seems they had these installed so the marks 
would line up on the cams.  if i go a tooth either way the marks touch when not 
parallel.

what i noticed though is when trying to line up the cam pulley marks the 
exhaust cam slot is level with the head but again the timing between the cam 
gears is not perfect.

i then messed around with turning engine over at crank bolt and noticed there 
is a little dead spot in the chain so it has the ability to load up?

i took the cams out and can't find any markings on the aftermarket cams so i 
guess all bets are off.

i found a thread that mentioned the #1 cam lobes as lining up toward center of 
cam caps with stock cams.  if i get my marks lined up on these cams the lobes 
at #1 do not quite match the same angle towards the middle of the head an using 
those studs as a marker.  so i guess one sits just a tad higher at that point 
than the other.  is this how aftermarket cams work or is it a bad sign that the 
heights are just a tad different?

also does the chain sound too loose?  i see no markings on that part and see 
the shape of teeth stock vs. aftermarket are different.  should each have their 
own part number or can you swap between ok?

i saw some instructions for aftermarket cam install that mentioned heat and 
press/mallet which made me also wonder about chain slack, mine just fall off.  
not sure if thats how the stock setup is?


i thought about just putting it back together.  and/or trying stock cams.  the 
chain now bothers me though since i have never seen another one of these motors 
up close.


On Friday, February 12, 2016 3:52 PM, Holland Phillips 
 wrote:


When I installed Schrick 260/276 cams in my car, after my first attempt, the 
marks appeared to line up very closely, but not quite exact. I figured they 
were close enough, but when I started the engine, I could tell immediately that 
it wasn't running correctly. It didn't rev as freely as it did before I messed 
with it. So I took it back apart, and removed the cam retainer caps on one cam 
so I could move the drive gear one tooth, and rechecked the alignment marks. 
They were then lined up exactly. Reassembled everything and started the engine 
once again. Perfect! The engine revved freely and more quickly than ever. I 
already had a lightened flywheel, and a bunch of other mods done to the engine, 
and with the new cams, the car was noticeably faster than it had ever been. 
Moral of the story is all those alignment marks MUST
be exactly aligned, or all bets are off.
~Holland
On Feb 12, 2016 15:26, "damac2004"  wrote:
im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.

this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with stock 
pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i made sure 
the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running like this, i 
don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to touch it in that 
sense since it had an adjustable cam.

i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be pointing 
towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly but it seems if 
i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam lobe might 
match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad off.



On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In the 
USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
 
-Larry
 
From: mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
damac2004
Sent: Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
To: MK2-16v 
Cc: mg...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
 
so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
 
is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to see 
what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same part 
number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
 
i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with 
adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got colored 
stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.  i emailed 
them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
 
i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car back 
stock.

On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very 
minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be concerned.
~Holland
On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004"  wrote:
hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
 
is there a pro

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

The stock cams are aligned with marks on the chain sprockets, they face each 
other and flush to the head (at 3 and 9 o'clock) A guy once installed them with 
the marks at 12 o'clock. Luckily the head wasn't mated to the block. 

On Feb 12, 2016, at 6:26 PM, damac2004  wrote:

im in california, ugh!  i found out the cams are estas.

this may sound like a dumb question but when i went to time the car with stock 
pulley i found that the front cam is a little off. it looks like if i made sure 
the cam marks lined up its one tooth off.  this car was running like this, i 
don't think any valves were contacting pistons.  im scared to touch it in that 
sense since it had an adjustable cam.

i don't understand how these motors work, should the #1 lobes be pointing 
towards the middle at the same angle?  its hard to tell exactly but it seems if 
i turned the front cam to match the internal marks that the cam lobe might 
match the other cam.  to me right now it looks just a tad off.



> On Friday, February 5, 2016 at 2:12:10 PM UTC-8, Larry Velez wrote:
> What country are you in that you are so worried about passing smog?  In the 
> USA, most of these cars are now exempt.
> 
>  
> 
> -Larry
> 
>  
> 
> From: mk2...@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
> damac2004
> Sent: Thursday, February 4, 2016 9:43 PM
> To: MK2-16v 
> Cc: mg...@yahoo.com
> Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?
> 
>  
> 
> so are people saying native 2.0 heads can fit onto the 1.8 bottom end?
> 
>  
> 
> is there any kind of clues on castings on the outside i can look for to see 
> what i have, and does anybody know if the stock cams 16v are the same part 
> number between 2 and 1.8 liter?
> 
>  
> 
> i just tore into this car more and of course the techtronics chip with 
> adjustable cam gear, and under the valve cover are not vw cams.  i got 
> colored stripes on these parts but all i can find is some kind of emblem.  i 
> emailed them asking where part numbers are just in case its their parts.
> 
>  
> 
> i don't know if this has an effect on smog but i just want to put the car 
> back stock.
> 
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
> 
> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very 
> minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be 
> concerned.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004"  wrote:
> 
> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
> 
>  
> 
> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil pump? 
>  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
> 
>  
> 
> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with the 
> 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front of 
> the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on mydiesel 
> where mated.
> 
> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
> 
> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors which 
> were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and Moronic for 
> 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous owner) under the 
> bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast spare parts bin 
> that crossed model types and years, throwing together old and new model parts 
> when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was, um, not-so-good and 
> their supply was the same.  
> 
>  
> 
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips  
> wrote:
> 
>  
> 
> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the 
> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need 
> for the 9A and be done with it.
> 
> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004  wrote:
> 
> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 2.0
> 
>  
> 
> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the 
> left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a bare 
> wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
> 
>  
> 
> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it higher 
> for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there from 
> underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower block is a 
> big embossed A
> 
>  
> 
> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this still 
> doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and smaller oil 
> pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so obviously they 
> aren't hitting the guts of the engine.
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
> 
> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the 
> windshield?  The tray covers the windshield 

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

Anything is possible, trans, heads and blocks are all interchangeable. My GTi 
had a weird mix of 2.0 and 1.8 components and it ran beautifully. Never passed 
emissions because of a hollow cat, but I had a buddy who took care of it. He 
sold his business so I registered it as a historic/classic vehicle. No more 
emissions testing. 

On Feb 2, 2016, at 2:26 PM, damac2004  wrote:

somebody on forums just showed me a couple pictures that makes it pretty clear 
now.  since i haven't touched these parts before it didn't dawn on me to look 
at where you slide the oil pump im shaft gear in is a different dimension!

it looks like i have a 1.8 block, there is a little bit of wiggle room to feed 
the gear from outside block.  the 2.0 block has a bigger hole to fit the bigger 
gear!

the im shafts are definately different, the 1.8 is bulkier with gear oil pump 
side shaft past where it rides on bearing and gear itself.  so that part must 
be what people say hits.

so i need to order a 1.8 im shaft.

so maybe its safe to assume with the wiring and ecu that the car had another 
motor originally?  is it possible somebody left all the chasis fueling stuff 
and even put on a different head to a 1.8 bottom end?

oh boy i hope this doesn't stop me from getting smogged.

> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 9:37:13 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
> The external differences between 1.8 and 2.0 16V heads and blocks are very 
> minimal. I don't recall the over hang you speak of, but I wouldn't be 
> concerned.
> 
> ~Holland
> 
>> On Feb 2, 2016 09:28, "damac2004"  wrote:
>> hmmm, i am still not convinced and found a 1.8 oil pump in it.
>> 
>> is there a problem with me going with the 2.0 im shaft/gear and its oil 
>> pump?  if im reading right it can only help?  then i won't have to worry.
>> 
>> the more i read im still not seeing how it can be a 2.0 bottom end with the 
>> 1.8 intermediate shaft if things don't hit when running the engine.
>> 
>> 
>> is it normal for the head on these motors to stick way out past the front of 
>> the block where they meet?  im used to seeing that area flush on mydiesel 
>> where mated.
>> 
>>> On Tuesday, February 2, 2016 at 6:55:11 AM UTC-8, mgyip wrote:
>>> Sure sounds like a 2.0l 16v especially because of the 2 knock sensors which 
>>> were only present on the 91 and later cars - Digifunk for 8v and Moronic 
>>> for 16v.  I wouldn't necessarily throw TEPO (the evil previous owner) under 
>>> the bus though - Volkswagen was/is notorious for having a vast spare parts 
>>> bin that crossed model types and years, throwing together old and new model 
>>> parts when their supply was thin.  In 91-92, VW quality was, um, 
>>> not-so-good and their supply was the same.  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 5:51 PM, Holland Phillips 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Well, it's definitely a 9A engine. Whatever else is going on with the 
>>> internals is a mystery. I would just buy all the replacement parts you need 
>>> for the 9A and be done with it.
>>> On Feb 1, 2016 14:30, damac2004  wrote:
>>> 1.  yes there is an ecu and it has a techtronics chip in it that says 16v 
>>> 2.0
>>> 
>>> 2.  i think it does have 2 knock sensors on the front of the block to the 
>>> left of the block breather fitting?  each one looks the same, one has a 
>>> bare wire the whole length, and each goes to its own wire harness clip.
>>> 
>>> 3.  this car is disabled on the driveway and im struggling to get it higher 
>>> for me to get underneath.  i was trying to feel around back there from 
>>> underneath looking up and all i can find on the drivers side lower block is 
>>> a big embossed A
>>> 
>>> i'm new to these cars so im scared its some kind of other engine.  this 
>>> still doesn't explain how this car was using the larger im shaft and 
>>> smaller oil pump gear?  there isn't a mark anywhere on those parts so 
>>> obviously they aren't hitting the guts of the engine.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 12:04:43 PM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>> Does it have a ECU mounted under the plastic tray at the base of the 
>>> windshield?  The tray covers the windshield wiper motor, and is held on by 
>>> some clips. If it does, it's probably a 9A. The 1.8 liter 16V doesn't 
>>> utilize an ECU.
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Feb 1, 2016 11:59, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>> the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after having 
>>> seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(
>>> 
>>> 
>>> im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture i 
>>> attached, down below that is the part number.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
>>> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 
>>> liter 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
>>> 
>>> ~Holland
>>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>>> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few and 
>>> differing ans

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

The most obvious way to tell would be the 2" tall raised numbers on the rear 
face of the block that read "2.0". The problem is that it's hard to see under 
the exhaust manifold and all the gunk that seems to collect there. 


On Feb 1, 2016, at 2:59 PM, damac2004  wrote:

the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after having 
seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(


im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture i 
attached, down below that is the part number.


> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 liter 
> 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
> 
> 
> ~Holland
> 
>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few and 
>> differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make sure 
>> i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.
>> 
>> 
>> the block says:  051 103 021
>> 
>> the head says:  051103373
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b-4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b%40googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1b683a1d-e370-4d69-87b5-962dddf36fa0%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/E35B65AB-1CE8-406A-990C-D42AC2F6088D%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] how do i find out what engine i have?

[Steven Arguello]

My 88 GTi came with a 9A 2.0, and the guy who sold it to me never knew it. I 
realized it was a 2.0 when I discovered a second knock sensor above the oil 
cooler, the 1.8 only has one. 

On Feb 1, 2016, at 2:59 PM, damac2004  wrote:

the chasis is a 1991 gti but i don't trust the previous owners after having 
seen all the hack jobs.  for all i know another motor is in there :(


im trying to look on front of block and see these markings in the picture i 
attached, down below that is the part number.


> On Monday, February 1, 2016 at 8:30:48 AM UTC-8, hollandphillips wrote:
> I don't recall you saying what year your car is. If it's a '91-'92 2.0 liter 
> 16V, the engine designation is 9A.
> 
> 
> ~Holland
> 
>> On Jan 31, 2016 11:51 PM, "damac2004"  wrote:
>> is there some kind of decoder?  when i search google i come up with few and 
>> differing answers.  i want to find out what engine i have so i can make sure 
>> i get the right intermediate shaft and stock parts to get it smogged.
>> 
>> 
>> the block says:  051 103 021
>> 
>> the head says:  051103373
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "MK2-16v" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to mk2-16v+u...@googlegroups.com.
>> To post to this group, send email to mk2...@googlegroups.com.
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/20c387d7-fd5b-4ad1-9f35-df0ae5adca6b%40googlegroups.com.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1b683a1d-e370-4d69-87b5-962dddf36fa0%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/22ADE48B-6EF9-46BC-BCD2-B73D3E433E30%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Sharing driving routes

[Steven Arguello]

I've seen road maps and shareable tracks in .gpx format that I believe were 
created with a rally mapping software called Rally Navigator. They had rally 
style road instructions, might be more than what you're looking for, but still 
pretty cool. 

On Jan 30, 2016, at 12:34 PM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

What is the best way to share driving routes? Google Maps or a GPS is going to 
take you a certain direction every time. What I want to do is get the routes 
from some nice driving roads then share those with others.  There is a car club 
in the Tampa area that I know has specific route that they drive on occasion 
but I don't even know how they save and share those other than a printed map.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC-TH0MY3uYzuxkgKz29MFdyeu80B_PphDKXXArUfxKY7w%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/A5C021CF-A8B7-41AE-884B-C4D4484068EA%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] 1991 gti oil buzzer went off, engine started loping, and screeching noises in engine bay

[Steven Arguello]

The 8v distributor runs off of the intermediate shaft along with the oil pump. 
If it jumped a tooth or two the spark timing would be off. The 16v dizzy runs 
off the cam. 
Does it have A/C? 



On Dec 24, 2015, at 12:22 PM, damac2004  wrote:

I'm new to these cars.  I got one of these a few months ago and planned on 
using it as a project to restore for fun.  I have been driving it as is because 
it worked.  I do have to get it smogged and clean up some neglect but it was 
getting me around ok with no funky noises.

Yesterday I came off the freeway and all of a sudden the high pressure oil 
buzzer constantly started going off.  I heard a racket of screeches and clunks 
in the engine bay and the engine was loping near idle speed.  So too many wierd 
things at once to ignore, but I had to get off the road so i probably ran the 
car about a minute after before turning it off.  just putting my safety first 
because of where i was vs. potentially blowing up a motor.

i had to work and came back to cold car.  i have good fluids and started it up 
for a bit.  it ran with just the hint of stumbling although i don't know if 
these cars typically do that while warming up.  it wasn't loping the same.  i 
reved it and didn't get the light to come on but noticed the racket sounded 
like its on the drive belt system.  while engine was running only odd thing i 
noticed is shavings i think near the intermediate shaft from the lower plastic 
timing belt cover.  couldn't quite tell if another pully was actually touching 
it.

im i correct to assume that if something in vbelt system dragged all it would 
do is slow down the timing belt, but that would still turn the im shaft without 
interference? 

is it possible a pulley wobbled its way into the im shaft and held it up?  i 
sure didn't smell smoking timing belt and will have to look closer.  it has 
power steering, alternator, water pump with 2 vbelts.

or maybe something bad happned inside engine with oil pump or the im bearings 
and the pulley side is worn and walking out and hitting?
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/af959f0b-50cd-474c-917b-f978104e7adb%40googlegroups.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CADF84B2-BAD8-409C-95D8-813D44827BFD%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Hauling stuff in the Mk2?

[Steven Arguello]

Once and only once I fit myself, 3 big dudes and our snowboards for the 1/2 hr 
trip to our local ski slopes. They complained all the way home about the 
exhaust noise, babies. 

Another time, I bought one of those K-Mart bike racks, it didn't like the shape 
of the GTi's hatch. Only 1 of the bikes was really damaged, at least it was on 
an unused back road.

As a side note, for full disclosure, I've had snowboards, sailboards and 
surfboards fly off the roof at one time or another. We used to call it 
premature ejection. Anyway, I now have a Volvo wagon w/2" hitch and a hitch 
bike rack. Snowboards now always travel inside in either car.

On Dec 24, 2015, at 11:48 AM, Larry Velez wrote:

> I find myself having to ask for favors to haul stuff around because all our 
> cars are small.
>  
> Today I had to throw out an old mattress and had to ask our lawn guy to take 
> it to the dump for me.
>  
> I am thinking that if I ever get my MK2 running again I might put a rack on 
> it to be able to transport mattresses and such and the occasional large item 
> on top.   I can’t yet get myself to get an SUV which would mostly be wasted 
> space on most days.  And from what I have seen most people can’t fit anything 
> inside their SUV anyway and end up putting it on top anyway.
>  
> What kind of large stuff have you put into or on top of your Mk2?
>  
> Obviously putting anything heavy would be a no no, like that infamous MK3 
> Jetta crushed by plywood… but the ocassional ladder, mattress or Ikea run 
> which happens ocassionally would be useful to be able to do with the Mk2.
>  
> Some of you probably have pickup trucks for such tasks but I have no room nor 
> desire to own a pick up truck.
>  
> Maybe I just need to get a ‘station wagon’ as my next daily (current daily is 
> an Audi B5 A4).
>  
> -Larry
>  
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/e91861b7cb534f2b8914a4f374e1a468%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/88630B2D-0344-4D22-86BF-CD7C7711779F%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Tire Rack + mount and balance tires locally... worth it?

[Steven Arguello]

I wonder all the time about that. If you have the tires rotated and balanced 
once a year it's probably worth it. I only use Tire Rack when I'm picky about 
what tires I'm buying, now that's just with my GTi. All other cars, whatever's 
cheapest/easiest. I've been to 4 or 5 different places in the past 10 years and 
I'd say that they're all pretty much the same. 

On Nov 9, 2015, at 6:32 PM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

I just dropped off a car at Tire Kingdom to have a set of four 15" tires 
mounted, balanced with the lifetime balance and rotation option included.  Cost 
is about $110 before tax.  I purchased the tires at Tire Rack because I was 
looking for a good deal.

Anyone else buy tires at Tire Rack then wonder if it would have been better to 
just buy locally? Do places like Tire Kingdom and Tires Plus still charge less 
for mounting and balancing when tires are purchased from them?





-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/CA%2BV5SC_3wwkV_6mDFc-pbbXPRDdhxf3H%3DyBw%3DxjCtxnSZ7wrBg%40mail.gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/3A6560FA-6352-47F2-874F-FA08041EE447%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Ethanol Free Gasoline?

[Steven Arguello]

I blame the ethanol for all my corrosion-in-the-fuel-dizzy issues. A few years 
back, water freezing in the fuel lines was a problem out here in the east. 

On Nov 5, 2015, at 5:32 PM, Larry Velez  wrote:

What's the deal with this new ethanol free gasoline I am seeing at the local 
wawa gas station?

Anyone using this on their mk2?  Would our cars like drinking this stuff much 
better and help prevent the varnish that happens these days on modern gasoline 
which our cars don't like at all..

Larry
91 GTI 16V
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/o0hsyghorrtg1xljlu5ny2t8.1446762770163%40email.android.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
<20151105_172822_resized.jpg>

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/8859F20B-63DB-498A-8F7E-239CA085702F%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Some more interesting reading, CIS-E Manual pdf

[Steven Arguello]

I hope so, Larry. I'm in the same boat, it's helped some but I still have some 
serious issues. Mostly from the car having sat in my driveway for too long. 
Nothing comes out of one fuel dizzy (I have 2 sets of everything) and the other 
one never stops, even with the sensor plate at rest. From what I read in the 
manual, with the plate at rest the injector shouldn't even drip. Mine hum 
nicely as soon as I turn on the fuel pump. I even pulled the fuel dizzy off the 
airbox to make sure the plate isn't pressing on the plunger.
I suppose that the plunger or the walls of its housing can wear. Is this the 
most likely reason the injectors are always on?

I got a loaner fuel pressure tester from autozone and it didn't have the right 
fittings. I faked it with hose clamps etc and was able to get one reading of 
75psi before everything got soaked in gas.

As always any help is appreciated.
Steve


On Nov 5, 2015, at 3:22 PM, Larry Velez wrote:

> Awesome,  this could be very useful as I deal with my fuel system issues.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Larry
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
> Steven Arguello
> Sent: Thursday, November 5, 2015 3:13 PM
> To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
> Subject: [mk2-16v] Some more interesting reading, CIS-E Manual pdf
> 
> http://www.cpp.edu/~bvnorum/cars/WSP-521-124-00.pdf
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/03EA635C-13FC-4E82-B5B7-240C3A880AD0%40gmail.com.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
> 
> -- 
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
> "MK2-16v" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
> email to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
> To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
> Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
> To view this discussion on the web visit 
> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/cdba21739dcf471fb05a3ba0f3cc1a13%40MBX082-E1-VA-2.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET.
> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/4A9086A3-D186-4E3E-A84A-79E8A59C0B6F%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Some more interesting reading, CIS-E Manual pdf

[Steven Arguello]

http://www.cpp.edu/~bvnorum/cars/WSP-521-124-00.pdf

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/03EA635C-13FC-4E82-B5B7-240C3A880AD0%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Bentley Online

[Steven Arguello]

I struggle every time I have to fire up my Bentley. I found this by accident, 
hopefully it'll last.

http://madsen-jensen.dk/golf/Golf/index.htm

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/1B34800C-9153-4523-AFB5-33C6F957AE06%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Any 020 tranny for sale around north jersey?

[Steven Arguello]

Short version, I yanked the selector rod on my existing trans and now have to 
rebuild the whole thing. 
I saw a guy has 3 in PA in vwvortex, for 150ea. I thought I'd check with you 
first. 
Thanks and never yank before you look,
Steve

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/52AA7003-2B03-4799-8A73-55BBA0211D9A%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Injector hose repair

[Steven Arguello]

It's the hose between the fuel distributor and the injector, I need to figure 
out which cylinder it is. 
I asked him about mixing CIS-E and Motronic components, (it's what I've got) he 
said to get him part numbers of fuel dist., injectors etc and he'll be able to 
recommend what to use with what. 



On Jun 29, 2015, at 5:50 PM, Larry Velez  wrote:

Great to hear, for everyone else’s benefit in the future – what was the part in 
question here and did Collin say it was NLA (no longer available) new?
 
Someone should invite Collin to this list – I bet he is a wealth of useful info 
– tell him it’s a small awesome group of people.
 
-Larry
91 GTI 16V
 
From: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com [mailto:mk2-16v@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of 
Steven Arguello
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2015 5:34 PM
To: mk2-16v@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [mk2-16v] Injector hose repair
 
Yeah, Collin's the guy. He answered every question I had. You don't repair 
those lines with hose and clamps. He can get me a used one. Problem solved. 
Thanks. 


On Jun 29, 2015, at 5:15 PM, Jack Simon  wrote:

Call Techtonics (503-843-2700) and ask to talk directly to Collin Gyenes 
(pronounced like Guiness, the beer).  He will give you the straight skinny on 
exactly what you can do to resolve the problem.
 
On 29 Jun 2015, at 17:09, Larry Velez wrote:

Techtonics Tuning sells fuel hose by the foot and they know this engine well 
(or at least used to),  I bet a call to them and you'll get the right hose to 
replace it: 
http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_12_794 

 
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/EC82EC2D-2DB3-49B2-8678-63803BCC21FE%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/517FA4F6-265F-495C-9B45-B4CA3C920FE9%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/81af14c491334946bf046c1ccd3448d1%40MBX082-E1-VA-4.EXCH082.SERVERPOD.NET.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/0548EDFA-180D-4519-B5E5-68B121F83721%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [mk2-16v] Injector hose repair

[Steven Arguello]

Yeah, Collin's the guy. He answered every question I had. You don't repair 
those lines with hose and clamps. He can get me a used one. Problem solved. 
Thanks. 


On Jun 29, 2015, at 5:15 PM, Jack Simon  wrote:

Call Techtonics (503-843-2700) and ask to talk directly to Collin Gyenes 
(pronounced like Guiness, the beer).  He will give you the straight skinny on 
exactly what you can do to resolve the problem.

On 29 Jun 2015, at 17:09, Larry Velez wrote:

Techtonics Tuning sells fuel hose by the foot and they know this engine well 
(or at least used to),  I bet a call to them and you'll get the right hose to 
replace it: 
http://techtonicstuning.com/main/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2_12_794 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/EC82EC2D-2DB3-49B2-8678-63803BCC21FE%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/517FA4F6-265F-495C-9B45-B4CA3C920FE9%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

[mk2-16v] Injector hose repair

[Steven Arguello]

My 250W halogen work light/garage heater went and melted a hole in an injector 
hose (not while it was installed). Can I repair it with hose and clamps? If so 
what should I do and/or NOT do? Hose type, brand, clamps, kits, any advice will 
help.
Thanks,
Steve 

-- 
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
"MK2-16v" group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email 
to mk2-16v+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post to this group, send email to mk2-16v@googlegroups.com.
Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/mk2-16v.
To view this discussion on the web visit 
https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/mk2-16v/67D4A6C7-19C1-48FC-991B-04244043E26A%40gmail.com.
For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.

Re: [a2-16v-list] value of 020 transmission cases

[Steven Arguello]

In the parking lot of the recycling center, an Albanian guy in the 
stereotypical beat up Mercedes and a fist sized wad of bills offered me 200$ 
for the scrap cable in my trunk. 



On Sep 4, 2014, at 9:14 AM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

I have been cleaning stuff from my garage lately and decided to get rid of
the two 020 transmission cases that have been on the shelf for years.  All
the gears were removed due to damage so only the cases were left.  I put
them in the free section of craigslist yesterday around 5p.  In less than 2
hours I had no less than a dozen emails from people offering to come pick
up the cases.  I responded to the first guy and they were picked up in no
time.

It got me wondering what the real value is for scrap aluminum.  I know
scrap is worth money but I am sure it isn't worth the time in small
quantities.  I also threw 2 16v intake manifolds (throttle body on
passenger side) into the box for them to take.  So what is a reasonable
amount someone can expect to get from these pieces of aluminum?  The guy's
girlfriend came to pick up the pieces and said he likes to make odd art
pieces from car parts who knows if that will happen or they will scrap
it for money.  Either way, I'm ok with whatever they want to do with it :)
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.

Re: [a2-16v-list] a2-16v-list] distributor cap and tires

[Steven Arguello]

A few years ago, I followed the numbers on a new cap after swapping heads and 
it almost started, backfiring really bad like the timing was way off. I checked 
and re-checked everything for a week until I realized that the numbers on the 
cap were reversed. I assumed that the 8v and 16v caps were the same, just 
different rotation. 
Anyway, yesterday, I took off my cap, looked fine, I sanded the center of the 
rotor a bit and put everything back together, now it runs worse. All of a 
sudden it's running way too rich. 
I'll look into it when I have more time. 

On Aug 16, 2014, at 1:14 PM, Jack Simon  wrote:

There is your problem!!  NEVER, EVER trust non OEM.  Here are the ones you will 
need providing yours is a 2 liter.  These images were from AutohausAZ.  
(http://www.autohausaz.com/)...Jack


 Makes  >  1991 VW  >  JETTA GLI 16-VALVE  >  Ignition Parts  > Distributor Cap


03368
Bosch OEM - Distributor Cap 
1 per car.
$10.32
SALE$10.75
List: $49.00
Qty: 




 Makes  >  1991 VW  >  JETTA GLI 16-VALVE  >  Ignition Parts  > Distributor 
Rotor


04170
Bosch OEM - Distributor Rotor; 10mm Shaft 
For distributors with 10mm shaft. 1 per car.
$5.19
SALE$5.41
List: $26.50
Qty: 



On 16 Aug 2014, at 12:32, Chad Rebuck wrote:

I got some off brand from rock auto called auto tune
because they were on clearance... I put the old cap and rotor back on for
now.

___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.

Re: [a2-16v-list] Anyone with a 1988-1992 Golf/GTI - rear 3-point belt question

[Steven Arguello]

My goof. It was pretty much the same shot as Larry's. 
I'm not sure if an 87 would have that rectangular slot next to the speaker grid 
where the belt passes though. I'll send a shot of that directly to Denis. I'm a 
little wary of sharing Dropbox stuff. Always share the wrong stuff to the wrong 
people. Funny to think of email as old technology. 

On Jul 23, 2014, at 12:08 PM, Larry Velez  wrote:

Chad,

If we wanted things easy and practical,  we would not own these cars, we would 
lease Toyota Fits.  Ha.

-Larry

-Original Message-
From: a2-16v-list [mailto:a2-16v-list-boun...@mail.a2-16v.com] On Behalf Of 
Chad Rebuck
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2014 12:03 PM
To: Volkswagen a2 16v discussion list
Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] Anyone with a 1988-1992 Golf/GTI - rear 3-point belt 
question

Since this list is dedicated to our old school VWs it naturally doesn't accept 
picture attachments as we all are used to in email these days.  I'll have to 
see if there is a setting to allow picture attachments, but if you have any to 
share in the short term please link them as Larry did or send them directly to 
the person requesting the pics.  You can post to the list (without the picture 
attached) indicating you sent something so others know there is a response.

We have old cars, get used to this old mailing list technology!!

See ya.


> On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 11:59 AM, Larry Velez  wrote:
> 
> Here are pictures from my 91:
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/5ukrfzgp9e2v0q4/2014-07-23%2011.46.25.jpg
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/yz6c6vw8hjvtszw/2014-07-23%2011.47.09.jpg
> 
> Let me know if you need more picts.
> 
> Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
>  Original message 
> From: Denis Goldman
> Date:07/23/2014 11:41 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: Volkswagen a2 16v discussion list
> Subject: [a2-16v-list] Anyone with a 1988-1992 Golf/GTI - rear 3-point 
> belt question
> 
> I still have my '87 GTI and have parts to convert the rear lap belts 
> found on 85-87's to a 3-point belt.
> 
> I have a factory installed nut behind the c-pillar trim (so I will 
> need to cleanly drill a whole in my c-pillar trim to access it, which is 
> fine).
> 
> But I am perplexed on the location of the seat belt retractor/spool.  
> My hunch, from looking at pictures of jetta's and cabriolets online, 
> is that it goes behind the seat below the side package/speaker shelf, 
> and mounts somewhere to the body next to or on the side of the shock 
> tower... I just don't know where.
> 
> On my '87, I don't see any factory-installed mounting points (like 
> they so nicely provided me with on the c-pillar) and therefore I may 
> need to weld a mounting tab in place.
> 
> Can someone with a 88-92 Golf/GTI kindly confirm?  A picture would 
> also be worth a thousand words...thanks in advance!!
> 
> Regards
> Denis
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
> For list archives, see listinfo link above.
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
> For list archives, see listinfo link above.
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.

[a2-16v-list] dumb 16v cat question

[Steven Arguello]

The drawings in the Bentley are ambiguous, and I have no reference from my 
existing exhaust as it was all hacked. Which way is the 02 sensor supposed to 
point?  With the cat horizontal, the O2 sensor points straight down. Is this 
the way it's supposed to go? 
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.

[a2-16v-list] Historic/classic vehicle

[Steven Arguello]

I was moaning and groaning to a buddy of mine about my GTi exhaust issues, he 
brought up the fact that it's now a classic which in Jersey means: 
-Registration every 3 years and free renewal. 
-No emissions inspection ( he told me that, haven't confirmed it)
-Couple hundred bucks yearly insurance, again, need to confirm that. 
-"QQ" prefixed plates. 
Besides being 25 years old, the car can't be modified or have added parts. The 
whole process can be done by mail and besides the title, they only want 2 
pictures, front and driver's side profile. I guess they have some guy compare 
them to original pictures? 
If so, not sure if the black basket weave BBS rims will pass. Maybe. Were they 
ever available on a Golf or in '87. I doubt they'll notice that it's dropped 1 
1/2" 

PS found a downpipe on eBay, 30$ +shipping so far. 
PPS Do I even need a new cat? 
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.

[a2-16v-list] Gti 16v downpipe

[Steven Arguello]

Does anyone have an extra they're willing to sell?
My TT stainless is one solid, welded together piece from the downpipe to the 
centerpipe , with what looks like a piece of 3" stovepipe added for the O2 
sensor fitting.
Thanks 
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.

Re: [a2-16v-list] Rear calipers upside down???

[Steven Arguello]

I finished reading the Bentley chapter on brakes and there are 2 types of mk2 
calipers before and after mid 88, hand brake cable and brake line are swapped. 
I have the old ones but, I think the car may have had the new ones originally. 
On my car the hand brake cable neatly follows the bottom of the suspension 
until about 8" from the caliper where, with a pretty severe bend it jumps to 
the top. Mostly, I don't like the kink, it'd be a lot cleaner if I could flip 
them.
Gonna try the engine paint, unless it says on the can not to use on calipers.
Does anyone know of a hard brake line kit?
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

[a2-16v-list] Rear calipers upside down???

[Steven Arguello]

Never did anything with the brakes except change pads. Now, I noticed that the 
hand rake cable and the brake line are short and crisscrossed. Is there any 
reason to do this or is it just a goof? I'm assuming I can swap them right to 
left and put them on correctly. 
Also the hard lines from the MC to rear axle look brand new. They look like 
they were under coated. 
I'm going to replace the rears and all the flexible ones. 
Hate to open up a can o'worms but is SS worth it? I felt that the brakes always 
felt crappy. Would street legal SS lines make a noticeable difference? Any 
recommendations? 
One last thing, painted or rusted calipers? I don't mean day glo green, maybe 
red. Regular hi temp engine paint ok?
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

Re: [a2-16v-list] CIS-e injector part number?

[Steven Arguello]

Yeah, I'll try cheap used ones, at least for spares. I'd appreciate it if you 
look into that for me. I could never get one of them to spray evenly. Full 
throttle it was a lopsided stream, 1/2 throttle and less it would just dribble. 
It's  cis-e on a 2.0. and running way to rich according to my friend's dyno CO 
readout. I have the printout somewhere. It runs like it's a little lean and if 
I lean it out any more it runs like crap. I thought vacuum leaks and I can't 
find any, new O rings, hoses, boot all good. New O2 sensor, and every part 
swapped with a spare. Every test in the Bentley ok. So I'm back to that bad 
injector. 
After I clean up the injectors I can get it on that CO meter and set it so 
it'll pass inspection. 
Anyway, that's the plan. 

On Mar 8, 2013, at 7:46 PM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

You can get a set of cis injectors cheap I would think from vortex if you
have time.  Guys with 16v turbos would have swapped cis for efi injectors.
I can post in there if interested in used injectors.  How did one fail?
On Mar 8, 2013 7:39 PM, "Anthony Pelletier"  wrote:

> The brake lines are cheap, it's mostly labor & taking the time to run them
> nice & neat.  I like to get the coated brake lines so they will last longer.
> 
> --- On Fri, 3/8/13, Holland Phillips  wrote:
> 
>> From: Holland Phillips 
>> Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] CIS-e injector part number?
>> To: "Volkswagen a2 16v discussion list" 
>> Date: Friday, March 8, 2013, 7:04 PM
>> Steve,
>> When I get my computer back up I'll see if ETKA is still
>> there and check
>> for you.  Brake lines?  We're talking your life!
>> 
>> ~Holland
>> On Mar 8, 2013 3:57 PM, "Steven Arguello" 
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> I searched my mailbox and no luck, Holland especially
>> if you have it,
>>> that'd be great... I found bosch part # 0437502026 for
>> 30$ new, no image.
>>> Also left rear hard brake line let go. My instincts
>> tell me, "replace them
>>> all", my cheap, lazy ass says, "just the one is ok". I
>> know that no one's
>>> going to say not to do them all. Any
>> tips/recommendations or advice?
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> a2-16v-list mailing list
>>> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
>>> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
>> ___
>> a2-16v-list mailing list
>> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
>> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

[a2-16v-list] CIS-e injector part number?

[Steven Arguello]

I searched my mailbox and no luck, Holland especially if you have it, that'd be 
great... I found bosch part # 0437502026 for 30$ new, no image. 
Also left rear hard brake line let go. My instincts tell me, "replace them 
all", my cheap, lazy ass says, "just the one is ok". I know that no one's going 
to say not to do them all. Any tips/recommendations or advice?

___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

[a2-16v-list] Going to scrap 2.0 shortblock that I ran w/out oil

[Steven Arguello]

Is there anything I should pull off before? 


___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

Re: [a2-16v-list] Reviving the 16V

[Steven Arguello]

After  it starting it all winter. I put in fresh gas (tank was empty). Jumped 
the battery, it started 1st try, idled a little rough for about 4 seconds then 
died. 2nd time same thing. It idle was smoother. Ever since, it'll run 
perfectly for less than 5 secs and die no matter how much throttle input. 
I've never messed with the fuel pumps except for that keep alive wire from the 
coil coming loose. 
I hear the pump come on when I key the ignition, after the engine quits, the 
pump runs for another second. 
Any ideas?
Also power steering reservoir's dry. No leaks on the floor. Does that stuff 
evaporate? 


On May 18, 2012, at 1:29 PM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

Hey Larry - did you get the car running?

On Mon, Apr 30, 2012 at 11:59 PM, Les Noriel  wrote:
> If the gas in the tank is older than 3 months, I'd change it. The oxygenation 
> used in commercial gasoline goes bad quickly.
> 
> -Les
> On Apr 30, 2012, at 5:31 PM, Jack Simon wrote:
> 
>> That's easy enough to determine, take the filler cap off and sniff at the 
>> opening.  If you smell what you think is turpentine, you've got a load of 
>> bad gas and it ain't ever gonna start!!!
>> 
>> On 30 Apr 2012, at 20:24, Chad Rebuck wrote:
>> 
>> If gas was in the tank for a while it may be worthwhile to replace it
>> with fresh gas.
>> 
>> ___
>> a2-16v-list mailing list
>> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
>> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
> 
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

Re: [a2-16v-list] Reviving the 16V

[Steven Arguello]

I think the coil sends a keep-alive signal to the fuel pump, possible 
loose/corroded terminal on the coil?
Does the pump run before the engine cranks?
Maybe relay? 


On Apr 30, 2012, at 7:18 PM, Larry Velez  wrote:


Hey Gents,

After too many years of idle,  the 16V will not start anymore.

It used to be that I would kill the battery (even the Optima) after the battery 
sat unplugged for too long.

This time I thought I would get another battery (Die Hard this time because it 
was the only place open last night) and she would again start.  But no luck.

With the new battery, she cranks strong but wont start.  With starter fluid she 
starts but shuts off within seconds.

I am noticing no buzz from the transfer pump in the tank.   I replaced it years 
ago for the better model but this looks like a fuel problem.

Any way to test the pump or should I just buy one and call it a day?

This will be the last spring of neglect,  I promise.

Thanks,

Larry
91 GTI 16V


| Larry Velez | www.sinu.com |
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

Re: [a2-16v-list] 16V Garage/Tools from scratch?

[Steven Arguello]

With the caveat that I tend towards the 1/2 assed, this what I'd get. 
-100 or 200 piece tool set say Husky or Craftsman (middle of the road quality, 
lifetime warranty)
-tool cabinet any brand with ball bearing drawers
-craftsman and husky make decent compressors, they're loud enough to bother the 
neighbors if they're close. Mine came with a basic set of tools, impact, 
ratchet, grinder etc. All crappy but have worked fine up to now

-sturdy work bench with vise. 
-good lighting/trouble light
-floor jack/jack stands

Build as you need the rest of the tools;

(what I've bought up to now)
-torque wrench, 3/8" up to 100ft/lbs 1/2" up to 150, the front axle nut I 
believe is 120 ( my son messed with my husky and a spring flew off. Exchanged 
it for a new one the same day.)
-Allen keys/sockets (the rear brake piston uses a 12mm)
-12 point (3square) set 12mm and 8mm
-5 ton press
-flange/pulley puller

-ultimately a place to clean parts and maybe paint
-heater
-engine lift/stand

I'm sure I'll think of a lot more stuff as soon as I send this. 

On Dec 4, 2011, at 1:03 PM, Larry Velez  wrote:

> Hey 16vers,
> 
> I can't believe this list has existed for 10+ years now.   Thanks for all who 
> have kept it alive.
> 
> I am in NYC and like many New Yorkers, have lived my existence in a series of 
> apartments,  sometimes with a parking spot but that's it.   No room for tools.
> 
> My wife and I are thinking of biting the bullet and buying a house with a two 
> car garage.
> 
> This means I might finally have room for tools and working on the 91 GTI 16V.
> 
> Wondering if anyone has a suggestion on where to find a list of tools that 
> would make up a pretty good set for working on the 16V.   
> 
> Even an "ultimate" list would help as I could draw the line somewhere and 
> start accumulating the most important tools.   I guess I will also need some 
> storage for said tools so any garage "furniture" companies would be welcome 
> also.   Your favorite brands would also help.As for budget,  I don't 
> expect to be working on other cars so I don't need indestructible tools but I 
> also understand the value of a good tool.Also not sure if an air 
> compressor would be too loud for a residential street - are there such things 
> as consumer-level air tools?
> 
> Thanks all,
> 
> Larry
> 91 GTI 16V
> 99.5 A4 1.8T
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

Re: [a2-16v-list] front control arm bolt thread repair

[Steven Arguello]

Sorry to hear that. I guess that "couple of hours" we said was bullshit. 
The 9A I bought came with a sheared of water pump bolt. I broke the extractor 
in the block trying to remove the bolt. I ended up drilling and tapping a 
smaller hole next to the original and at an angle. I know there's a special 
hell waiting for me for doing so. 
Good luck. 


On Nov 21, 2011, at 9:27 AM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

> While replacing the transmission this weekend the driver side front
> control arm mount threads stripped out.  I threaded the bolt a few
> turns by hand then started to tighten down but it let go with nowhere
> near the 90+ ft/lb of torque mentioned in the manual.  I was planning
> to remove the bolt to find the appropriate size helicoil.  I think it
> is a m11x1.5.
> 
> Is hope the helicoil tap is long enough so I don't have to resort to
> some other method of thread repair.  Any similar experiences out
> there?
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

Re: [a2-16v-list] wanted: auxiliary air valve

[Steven Arguello]

This is off an a2 16v? I've never seen one. 



On Nov 3, 2011, at 12:14 AM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

> I'm looking for one of these if any of you "parts collectors" have one
> laying around.
> 
> http://car-parts-garage.com/images/uploads/prod61/img2_00/003/8956267_1282218196.jpg
> 
> Thanks.
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

Re: [a2-16v-list] transmission swap

[Steven Arguello]

I've done it a few times. Never had a lift or any help, just floor jacks and 
2x4s so how hard can it be?  The only surprise was that the clutch disk splines 
were different sizes. I knew about the CV flanges. 
With my 1/2 assed technique it took less than a day. 

On Oct 10, 2011, at 10:37 AM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

> I replaced the head gasket with a fiber type gasket last week and now
> the coolant leak is gone.  It turned out that the machine work to
> surface the block and head were too rough for the aba metal layer
> gasket to seal.
> 
> Now that I've driven the car a couple days I realize the transmission
> output flange seals are leaking pretty good.  I have another
> transmission to swap in, but I wondered how much of a job this is
> without a lift.  Can the trans be replaced easily up on jack stands?
> I already know I'll need someone to help hold the trans to
> remove/install.  Perhaps I could use my engine lift to support the
> trans?
> 
> Any experience or recommendations to share?
> 
> Thanks
> Chad
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

Re: [a2-16v-list] oil pressure

[Steven Arguello]

With the stock, tight 1.8 above 90 (gauge max) with the loose 2.0, 45

I think that dynamic oil alarm thing actually came on once. Didn't know what it 
was then and it's never done it again. Oil temp was 300, coolant 2/3. 
Idle drops to 25psi



On Oct 4, 2011, at 4:34 PM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

> so what is considered normal at 2000 rpm for oil pressure on a warmed up 
> engine?
> 
> 70, 80, 100 psi?
> 
> What pressure does the relief in the oil pump open?
> 
> The bentley only talks about minimum oil pressure of 29 psi at 2000
> rpm when warm.
> 
> I've seen oil pressure above 100 psi cold and at least 70 when warm
> according to my memory.
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

Re: [a2-16v-list] ABA metal gasket and temps

[Steven Arguello]

I considered that but couldn't guess why the gasket or head would change 
resistance. I don't remember where the sender is, I gave that some thought as 
well. Why does it fluctuate so much? Oil cooler? Piston squirters? Anyway, I've 
gotten used to it. Coolant temp is a little higher though. I just remembered 
that when it was running hot, I thought it might be running lean, so I tweaked 
that like a 1/4 turn... It runs ok, not the way I'd like but, that's another 
can o' worms.
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

Re: [a2-16v-list] ABA metal gasket and temps

[Steven Arguello]

All 3 gaskets I've used were different. I don't remember which one went where 
other than they seem to be crappier each time. I also fitted an aftermarket oil 
pressure sender one of those times, it looks like shit with a brass T fitting. 
Not sure if that affected the temp also. 



On Sep 25, 2011, at 11:19 AM, Anthony Pelletier  wrote:

> I also used a 1.8 head. Going to try low temp t stat next. I've heard of so 
> many people using the aba gasket and no one mentions the extra heat.
> 
> Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android
> 
> 
> From: Steven Arguello ; 
> To: Volkswagen a2 16v discussion list ; 
> Cc: a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com ; 
> Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] ABA metal gasket and temps 
> Sent: Sun, Sep 25, 2011 2:58:07 PM 
> 
> Same thing, but I also went to a 1.8 head. Coolant half-way and 210 cruising. 
> Now coolant a little past half-way and 230. After 250 the sender jumps 
> around, up to 310 once. Maybe the sender's bad. 
> 
> 
> On Sep 25, 2011, at 8:55 AM, Anthony Pelletier  wrote:
> 
> > Hi all,
> >  
> > I was able to get the GLI back together with just some gaskets and 4 new 
> > intake valves.  I did notice some increased temps with the new gasket (a 
> > friend has the same set up in his Jetta and noticed the same thing.) 
> > Coolant temp is always 1/2 way on the guage and oil is 230 just cruising 
> > around. Seem about 20 degrees warmer than before. Cyl head is pretty much 
> > the same as oil temp. 
> >  
> > Anyone else use ABA find the same thing?  I am still using a stock 
> > thermostat, but thinking of throwing a 80c in there.
> >  
> > Thanks,
> > Tony
> > ___
> > a2-16v-list mailing list
> > a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> > http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

Re: [a2-16v-list] ABA metal gasket and temps

[Steven Arguello]

Same thing, but I also went to a 1.8 head. Coolant half-way and 210 cruising. 
Now coolant a little past half-way and 230. After 250 the sender jumps around, 
up to 310 once. Maybe the sender's bad. 


On Sep 25, 2011, at 8:55 AM, Anthony Pelletier  wrote:

> Hi all,
>  
> I was able to get the GLI back together with just some gaskets and 4 new 
> intake valves.  I did notice some increased temps with the new gasket (a 
> friend has the same set up in his Jetta and noticed the same thing.) Coolant 
> temp is always 1/2 way on the guage and oil is 230 just cruising around. Seem 
> about 20 degrees warmer than before. Cyl head is pretty much the same as oil 
> temp. 
>  
> Anyone else use ABA find the same thing?  I am still using a stock 
> thermostat, but thinking of throwing a 80c in there.
>  
> Thanks,
> Tony
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

Re: [a2-16v-list] 16v timing failure just valves?

[Steven Arguello]

Have used 3 different gaskets and never had a problem (with the gasket), even 
after running oil temp into the 300s. Don't forget new bolts. 



On Sep 20, 2011, at 8:16 AM, Anthony Pelletier  wrote:

> Good news, damage is limited to 4 intake valves.   Anyone use an aba metal 
> gasket to replace the stock one?  I had a nice abf metal gasket, but its used 
> up now and german auto parts couldnt get them this time.  I really dont like 
> the fiber gaskets.
> 
> Thanks,
> Tony
> 
> 
> Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android
> 
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

Re: [a2-16v-list] attn Holland - a2-16v.com list domain expiring in October

[Steven Arguello]

Post the paypal acct where we should donate. I have a couple bucks sitting in 
my paypal acct doing nothing. 



On Aug 7, 2011, at 10:52 PM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

> Hello Holland,
> 
> You have been gracious enough in the past to cover the charges for the
> a2-16v.com domain.  I am getting the list moved to a new server and
> checked on the domain name status while I was thinking about it.  I
> noticed it will expire in October if not renewed.  What plans do you
> have for this domain name?
> 
> 16v list members,
> 
> Maybe some members of the list would be interested in chipping in a
> couple dollars to go toward the renewal.  If that is the case feel
> free to paypal and I'll cut a check to Holland.
> 
> I'm not sure what it costs but my guess is $50 for a couple years of
> continued domain ownership?  There are just under 80 of us still on
> the list by the way, so it is surely shrinking. Some good new - I
> found a way to have searchable archives back to 2002.  Will share the
> news and links when it is online.
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
> For list archives, see listinfo link above.
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.

Re: [a2-16v-list] initial start problems

[Steven Arguello]

Don't think it's the O2 sensor. Do you have a Bentley manual? In addition to 
the cold start injection there's cold start enrichment, added pressure at the 
fuel distributor for around 30 secs depending on air temp -I think- have to 
find my bentley disc and a windows machine to run it on. 


On Aug 1, 2011, at 8:08 AM, Eric Gambon  wrote:

> Hey gents-
> 
> I have cleaned and maintained my CIS-e box and its all working well except
> for the 25-45 seconds after the car is started. It hesitates and falls on
> its face or stalls when you go to apply throttle. I have tried disconnecting
> the Cold Start Injector and have noticed no difference in the symptoms. I
> replaced all sensors, checked for vac leaks etc. The car runs great except
> for the first few seconds after startup.
> 
> I am thinking the last thing to check would be the O2 sensor and possibly
> its not heating properly sending bizarre signals to the ECU?
> 
> Thoughts?
> Ideas?
> 
> Thanks!
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
> For list archives, see listinfo link above.

Re: [a2-16v-list] valve refacing

[Steven Arguello]

When I mentioned it, the guy said "not worry". I'm sure there are lots of 
sodium valves out there and he's done millions.  You're also not supposed to 
straighten alloy wheels or chrome steel ones or use a cell phone while filling 
the tank. 



On Jun 24, 2011, at 9:30 AM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

> So if my valves didn't explode in the face of the machine shop guy
> then I shouldn't worry about them exploding or falling apart in the
> engine?
> 
> If sodium filled valves are common there has to be some information
> available to the machinist on valve composition and warnings specific
> to each engine, but I'll ask firsthand so I can see his reaction.  If
> I ask the lady at the desk over the phone he'll have too much time to
> think of a nice sounding answer :)
> 
> On Fri, Jun 24, 2011 at 9:23 AM, Matthew Yip  wrote:
>> Sodium metal - fun stuff.  The special disposal method is to cut the stem 
>> open and put it in water.  The chemical reaction releases heat and hydrogen 
>> - can you say "boom".
>> 
>> 
>> When I was in HS, our chemistry teach talked about sodium metal and lamented 
>> that he couldn't get sodium metal to demonstrate it's reactive powers.  
>> Having a father who was a chemist (and a senior scientist) came in handy.  
>> Went home and said "Dad, could you perhaps get me some sodium metal for 
>> school?"  The next day, my Dad handed me a little vial filled with oil and 
>> several lumps of silvery metal and a warning to  "Be careful with that - 
>> don't let it dry out or come in contact with water".
>> 
>> 
>> Let's just say that the next chemistry class held quite a bit of amusement...
>> 
>> Matthew
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> 
>>> From: Steven Arguello 
>>> To: Volkswagen a2 16v discussion list 
>>> Cc: a2-16v 
>>> Sent: Friday, June 24, 2011 9:05 AM
>>> Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] valve refacing
>>> 
>>> They're sodium filled and can explode or something. My guy (eastern 
>>> European) said it wasn't a problem. But I told him take off as little as 
>>> possible, I think it's only the exhaust. You're not supposed to throw them 
>>> in the recycling or trash, you cut the stem off and throw them in water 
>>> first they boil or something.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Jun 24, 2011, at 8:53 AM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:
>>> 
>>>> I think I may be picking up my engine from the machine shop today.  I
>>>> was reading in the Bentley:
>>>> 
>>>> "The valves must not be refaced.  They must be hand lapped only."
>>>> 
>>>> Why is this and what is the problem with having them machined as I
>>>> expect mine were?
>>>> ___
>>>> a2-16v-list mailing list
>>>> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
>>>> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
>>>> For list archives, see listinfo link above.
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> a2-16v-list mailing list
>>> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
>>> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
>>> For list archives, see listinfo link above.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> ___
>> a2-16v-list mailing list
>> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
>> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
>> For list archives, see listinfo link above.
>> 
> 
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
> For list archives, see listinfo link above.

Re: [a2-16v-list] valve refacing

[Steven Arguello]

They're sodium filled and can explode or something. My guy (eastern European) 
said it wasn't a problem. But I told him take off as little as possible, I 
think it's only the exhaust. You're not supposed to throw them in the recycling 
or trash, you cut the stem off and throw them in water first they boil or 
something. 



On Jun 24, 2011, at 8:53 AM, Chad Rebuck  wrote:

> I think I may be picking up my engine from the machine shop today.  I
> was reading in the Bentley:
> 
> "The valves must not be refaced.  They must be hand lapped only."
> 
> Why is this and what is the problem with having them machined as I
> expect mine were?
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
> For list archives, see listinfo link above.

Re: [a2-16v-list] new to 16v

[Steven Arguello]

While on the subject of bad Asian stereotypes...
I saw my first Asian Homeless Guy yesterday. Live and learn. 



On Jun 16, 2011, at 9:50 AM, Matthew Yip  wrote:

> You ruined a 944 Turbo with a SBC?  Oh, the horror!!  What will all those PCA 
> weenies say about you now?  I'm sure they'll say to your face "What an evil 
> man for ruining Ferry's folly"  and behind your back, they'll say "Smart SOB 
> - wish I had the stones to toss that expensive paperweight for an add'l 200 
> HP".  
> 
> 
> Speaking of track cars - while I still have the racecar, I can't seem to 
> leave well enough alone.  My MR2 arrived with a JDM 20v, a fully polyurethane 
> kit and Suspension Techniques springs (new shocks too but I don't know what 
> flavor).  Now that I've rebuilt the rest of the suspension components, I may 
> have to test it out at a local SCCA PDX - provided I can break free long 
> enough to do so.  
> 
> 
> When we hold our PDX events at Slummit Point's Shenandoah Circuit, it comes 
> with the skid pad - it'd be fun to see how a car can spin like a top.  Then 
> again, our 2 youngest instructors (both college freshman, fellow competitors 
> and good friends) continually point out that I can't drift to save my life.  
> To quote one of them "You're an embarrassment to your heritage - your 
> drifting skills are so BAD - I though Asian people were born with the 
> drifting gene"...
> 
> Matthew
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> 
>> From: DocWyte 
>> To: Volkswagen a2 16v discussion list 
>> Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 9:15 AM
>> Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] new to 16v
>> 
>> I'm still here too.  Haven't owned a 16v since I sold my 2l 16v GLI auto-x 
>> car in 2001.
>> 
>> Currently driving an old '92 Audi S4, 5 cylinder turbo.  Lots of fun, 
>> factory RS2, fast and comfy.  Fixing the A/C in it now.
>> 
>> Track car is a '89 Porsche 944 turbo with a 450hp Chevy LS1 in it.
>> 
>> -Josh
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> a2-16v-list mailing list
>> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
>> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
>> For list archives, see listinfo link above.
>> 
>> 
>> 
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
> For list archives, see listinfo link above.

Re: [a2-16v-list] New to 16v

[Steven Arguello]

Car's inspection is 3 yrs out of date and my guy went out if business. Need  to 
get GTi street legal. Before he went out if business he gave me my last 
results, CO was too high. Since then I went to lean out the F/A mix and found 
out there was about a 1/4 turn left, now it's max'd out lean and still at 
1-3mA. 
Oh, I traded an old LCD projector for my dad's old timing lamp, found out it 
was running about 6 deg retarded, which is about what I'm at on a good day. 

Otherwise,
Doing great. 

Welcome, 
Steve
'88 GTi 2.0 and a 1.8 and a 2.0 that I ran w/out oil. 
North NJ

On Jun 15, 2011, at 7:48 AM, Eric Gambon  wrote:

> Just wanted to say hello and see how people were doing this morning
> 
> Eric
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
> For list archives, see listinfo link above.

[a2-16v-list] CIS-e injectors

[Steven Arguello]

Anyone have any they'd sell? I don't have the part no in front of me but I 
believe they're fine thread. 
Thanks,
Steve

Re: [a2-16v-list] General Li Update

[Steven Arguello]

I'm pretty sure my problem is injectors. Don't have the $$$ for new ones. I 
have a set of Motronic injectors but no spare CIS-E. I gave up for now and 
drive it like a 8V.

Re: [a2-16v-list] General Li Update

[Steven Arguello]

I've never resolved my intermittent CIS-E problem. Now it runs 90% of the time 
at 10mA "limp home mode". The good news is that I have that tuned so that it 
actually is drivable. It idles without hunting. I changed everything except the 
coolant temp sensor and the harness. Did all tests in the Benteley all ok.

Re: [a2-16v-list] Anyone have a spare A2 pedal cluster?

[Steven Arguello]

Don't have one.



On Jul 27, 2009, at 4:54 PM, Mark Stanton  wrote:



I'm looking for one.

Clutch cable stop thing pulled itself through.


Mark



___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.

[a2-16v-list] Just to make sure

[Steven Arguello]

0deg TDC is the mark on the right if I'm looking through the timing  
check hole from the driver's side. The larger notch(diamond shaped in  
my case) to the left of 0 deg, is 6 (or whatever) deg BTDC. The  
flywheel rotates in the same direction as the wheels (going forward).

Thanks,
Steve

Re: [a2-16v-list] O2 sensor ground.

[Steven Arguello]

I think I might have "cleaned that up". I just have a brown 12 going  
to the head. Thanks

Steve

[a2-16v-list] O2 sensor ground.

[Steven Arguello]

The Bentley talks about a ground for the green O2 wire shield. Where  
is it located? Is there a ground to the exhaust anywhere? (for the O2  
sensor). How many grounds are there on the head? I bought my GTi with  
a hacked hybrid CIS_E/Motronic set-up. They had a Motronic throttle  
body, 2 wire idle speed valve, CIS-E ECU, ignition module and knock  
sensors and knock sensor CU(I thought) injectors and airbox where  
Motronic. It barely idled but at least it was hunting, at anything but  
idle it ran great. The harness is split open and has wires running  
everywhere. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Steve

Re: [a2-16v-list] CIS-E or Motronic Control Units?

[Steven Arguello]

I would have thought that the 9A ECU would be very different from the  
CIS-E, like say Motronic on it somewhere. I'm going to get everything  
back to CIS-E. Right? I only have 1 harness and it's CIS-E. What's the  
CIS-E airbox part number? Will stock  CIS-E be able to put enough fuel  
into the 2.0?

Thanks again,
Steve

[a2-16v-list] Head Gasket 1.8 head on 2.0 block?

[Steven Arguello]

Which head gasket set should I get 1.8 or 2.0?
Steve

[a2-16v-list] CIS-E or Motronic Control Units?

[Steven Arguello]

I don't know if these are the correct part #s. If anyone can check  
these (my spares) for me, thanks

Knock Sensor= 811 907 397 E
ECU= 811 906 264 F
I'm guessing that these are both CIS-E 1.8
I'll check the ones on the car as soon as my garage is above 50 deg.
Thanks again,
Steve

[a2-16v-list] Never got my stock CIS-E to work right

[Steven Arguello]

At one point I had 2 '88 GTi's, before getting rid of the 2nd one, I  
stripped it. Now I have 2 of pretty much everything. 2 airboxes/fuel  
distributors, 2 ecu's, 2 knock sensor cu's. Except only 1 knock sensor  
and only 1 coolant temp sensor. I tried every combination of what I  
have and never could get the DPR voltage to move from 10mA. It idled  
and ran just fine but I don't think it pulled like the original 2.0 It  
always ran hot even after a new thermostat, radiator and water pump. I  
ran it as rich as I could (too rich according to my buddy at the  
inspection/smog check. CO was high)Any suggestions?

Steve
PS ran every test in the Bentley all OK

Re: [a2-16v-list] A2 16V Knowledge

[Steven Arguello]

Ugliest car I ever owned...Electronic speedo/odo and flaky wiring,  
you'd honk the horn and the windshield wipers ran Anyway I killed  
my last 2.0 because of messing with the cluster.

Steve

Re: [a2-16v-list] A2 16V Knowledge

[Steven Arguello]

I had a 740i too'cept it was a Volvo. Bought it with 180K miles  
and the odo running less than half the time, odo went @ 220K. Sold a  
couple years later still running strong. Best brakes ever.

Steve

Re: [a2-16v-list] server for the a2-16v list is back online

[Steven Arguello]

Blew the timing belt running the Pine Barrens Express night road rally  
in South Jersey. As luck would have it, after hours of running through  
cranberry bogs and backwoods dirt roads, the timing belt broke just as  
we turned onto an asphalt road and we managed to coast into the  
parking of the local liquor store. A couple of beers in the parking  
lot, 2 calls to AAA and $128 and it's sitting in the garage.

Steve
PS What are the chances I didn't bend any valves? I never like the way  
it felt anyway, I have a clean 1.8 head and I think I'll put it on as  
is(stock).

[a2-16v-list] Ignition Cables

[Steven Arguello]

I couldn't find the archives but I bet this has been discussed  
before. What ignition cables should I get? Plugs?

Steve

Re: [a2-16v-list] Broken engine mount bracket.

[Steven Arguello]

Thanks everyone.
I need the car together for saturday. The junkyards in LA are very  
different than the ones here in north NJ. GTi/GLi's are very rare.


Anyway, I heard here on the list that the hydraulic mounts were "not  
good".(leak and fail easily)


I've found 2 welding places and hope to have this resolved today.

By the way, 1 bolt was gone, 1 was still attached to the block, the  
metal sort of tore apart. It caved in the oil filter but it hardly  
leaks, used a spare nut/bolt and the jack and drove it home.


Steve


On Nov 11, 2007, at 11:38 PM, Eric Schumacher wrote:


Hello Steve

I think that you are just shopping in the wrong places. These  
things are very plentiful in DIY junkyards. (Your luck may vary  
however, I may have a warped view here in LA,CA).  For what it is  
worth I use this same mount.  And welded on it a bit to slightly  
alter the geometry.  It'll probably last as long as the car.


http://www.mk2vr6.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1092

Lotsa Luck
Eric
85 GTI with VR6 Power

At 03:02 PM 11/11/2007, Steven Arguello wrote:

The front non-hydraulic mount bracket broke. I haven't been able to
find a replacement (no longer available, convert to hydraulic). Does
anyone know where to find a bracket? I'm going to have it welded. Has
anyone had experience with a welded bracket?
Thanks,
Steve
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.

__ NOD32 2652 (2007) Information __

This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
http://www.eset.com

[a2-16v-list] Broken engine mount bracket.

[Steven Arguello]

The front non-hydraulic mount bracket broke. I haven't been able to  
find a replacement (no longer available, convert to hydraulic). Does  
anyone know where to find a bracket? I'm going to have it welded. Has  
anyone had experience with a welded bracket?

Thanks,
Steve

Re: [a2-16v-list] Overheating

[Steven Arguello]

The water pump had a bolt/lug sheared off flush to the block. My  
extractor broke off in the hole I had drilled in the bolt. I ended up  
drilling and tapping another smaller hole. I used gasket sealer and  
didn't think it would hold. It has so far, but I effed up and put the  
old pump and the old thermostat back on.


The latest posts on overheating had to do with bad radiators. I had  
my hopes that the WP and thermostat would be ruled out.


Do I have to pull the crank pulley to remove the WP?

Thanks
Steve
On Oct 9, 2007, at 3:48 PM, John Stewart wrote:


Did you change the water pump when you did the motor swap?
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.

[a2-16v-list] Overheating ?

[Steven Arguello]

Oil temp 245 to 260 in traffic. 225 to 235 on the freeway. How can I  
tell if the thermostat is opening?
It's been like this since putting in the 2.0. I remember the 1.8 ran  
cooler, 225 in traffic never past 240.

I'm guessing the radiator's old.
Thanks,
Steve

Re: [a2-16v-list] OXS problem??

[Steven Arguello]

when I unplug it nothing happens, if I ground it, the current goes to  
+-20mA, which the Bentley says means the ECU is OK.
 I swapped the DPR, Knock box, airbox, ECU and lastly the O2 sensor  
w/spares I have and no change.
I imagine the O2 sensor needs a ground. Has anyone ever heard of  
grounding problems with the O2 sensor?

I'll pull the sensor and check my soldering
the O2 sensor wire is shielded. I remember something in the Bentley  
about where the shield is grounded but can't find it now. Could a bad  
shield have anything to do with it?

thanks again,
Steve

On Sep 4, 2007, at 9:44 PM, John S. Lagnese wrote:

If you unplug it the car should run richer and eliminate the  
problem, if the problem is still there its most likely not the OXS.

John
- Original Message ----- From: "Steven Arguello"  


To: "a2-16v" 
Sent: Tuesday, September 04, 2007 7:01 PM
Subject: [a2-16v-list] OXS problem??



Ongoing (year+) hesitating/misfire under load. Did all the tests in
the Bentley (again). DPR current  10.3mA no fluctuation. New O2
sensor, and I even tried putting the old one back. Before I buy a 3rd
sensor, I wanted to double check. How is the O2 sensor ground?
Through the pipe/manifold? Any chance that grounding might be the
problem?
thanks,
Steve
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.

[a2-16v-list] OXS problem??

[Steven Arguello]

Ongoing (year+) hesitating/misfire under load. Did all the tests in  
the Bentley (again). DPR current  10.3mA no fluctuation. New O2  
sensor, and I even tried putting the old one back. Before I buy a 3rd  
sensor, I wanted to double check. How is the O2 sensor ground?  
Through the pipe/manifold? Any chance that grounding might be the  
problem?

thanks,
Steve

[a2-16v-list] Bad resonator

[Steven Arguello]

My TT resonator is not doing anything...the exhaust is very loud only  
inside the car (drove on the freeway for 1 1/2 hrs was temporarily  
deaf for about 20 mins).  What options are there? Can you swap the  
resonator?

Thanks, Steve

Re: [a2-16v-list] Almost Race Season

[Steven Arguello]

I think I haven't figured out how to see pictures online. Where did  
they go?

Steve
On Apr 2, 2007, at 12:33 AM, Matthew Yip wrote:

I think I've figured some of this "posting pictures online" business  
- here are some pictures of the finished wheel wells and the new  
Nasty-Car style door bars.


We replaced the master cylinder, reinstalled the belts and seat and  
installed new padding on the bars - it looks like a racecar again!!!


Matthew





 


Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545367
___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.

Re: [a2-16v-list] Mis-fire from idle...

[Steven Arguello]

This sounds like the perfect thing to leave for some other month,  
it's too cold in my garage to work for any long time and when it  
warms up I won't need the heater anyway


My main problem is the hesitation/misfire. I think I actually have 2  
problems. When I blip the throttle from idle, it misses on 1 cylinder  
and sometimes will just die -not stall- just sputter until I let off  
the gas, let it idle and then very slowly give it gas till past 2300  
rpm. Then it'll pull ok, with that 1 cylinder miss every now and  
then. Cruising in 5th past 2500 rpm sudden hard acceleration produces  
that miss. I can deal with the miss but entering fast traffic with  
the possibility of just sitting there for 5 secs isn't fun. I end up  
revving past 2500 and popping the clutch (I can't force myself to  
feather it) then I have to keep the revs above 2500. It's really  
embarrassing @ my son's bus stop.


I messed w/the DPR a lot, back when the cam chain was off 1 tooth,  
still haven't got it right. I'm almost sure 1 injector is bad. Could  
this cause that major hesitation? I can't seem to find a timing light  
for rent or lend anywhere, so the timing is set by ear. If the  
ignition advance is working properly it still could be limited by the  
dizzy being set too late -right? I mean the spark has to occur within  
the arc (say 8 deg) of the rotor right?


Since the dizzy, rotor and cap are new,I have to check and fix
injectors
ignition timing
DPR setting
spark plugs
cables

 Not sure what order.

Sorry for the long post. Still learning CIS-E.
Thanks,
Steve

On Mar 11, 2007, at 2:48 PM, Galen Bergthold wrote:

The heater flapper door can be done fairly easily after the heater  
core assembly is removed. The easiest way I have found to do this is  
to also remove the heater core itself, then use water and a scrubbing  
sponge to remove and flush out all remaining foam and any glue  
residue on the metal air control flaps. I found some 2" wide self  
adhesive, fairly thin foam at a hardware store. I wanted to be sure  
it stayed so I also used some 3M spray adhesive on both the flap and  
the foam to help adhesion. Replace all the foam in there, any other  
the foam in there isn't usually in very good shape. After  
reinstalling the box make sure the heat control lever moves the air  
control flap to the full closed position so no heat is allowed into  
the cabin on the cool setting.




From: Steven Arguello 
To: Matthew Yip 
CC: a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] Mis-fire from idle...
Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2007 01:45:11 -0500

  I have the same problems!  1 mis-fire from idle (hasn't gone away
after 1500 miles) 2 No heat (need some help with that) 3 made it home
on parking lights- missing bolt on alternator support (fixed that)

How do you fix the flapper door? Bentley doesn't say much.

Are Digifant injectors the same as CIS-E? I'm pretty sure one's bad.
I'll check the throttle though.

Steve





On Mar 10, 2007, at 10:12 AM, Matthew Yip wrote:

It just dawned on me that I never posted my final disposition (and
also to try and get this list out of suspended animation).

After 5 months of "maintenance" and having been parked for 3 1/2
years, I finally got the '89 16v GTi on the road and legal.  I know
I'm slow when working on cars but I had other things going on at the
same time so I really didn't take me 5 months to change a timing
belt, water pump, radiator, injector seals and fluid flushes - honest
  Admittedly I hit a few snags like replacing all the hoses only
to find that the radiator was leaking (probably because of the fresh
hoses) or that the axle cup seal that decided to fail because I had
the car on jack stands for too long but it's mostly complete now
which is a huge step forward.

I took the car out for a few trial runs late at night because the
Safety Inspection was dead.  There's nothing like trying out a car
that is questionable on a sub-freezing night at 2300h when you're
alone and you live by yourself in the country - call me stupid, you
won't be the first.  The good news was that while the brakes were a
bit touchy, everything held together.  The rear calipers appeared to
be good but have proven to be frozen - either that or the
proportioning valve has died - the front brakes don't do much but the
rears work like a champ.  It's fun to hurtle to a stoplight, hammer
the brakes and counter-steer as the rear tries to pass the front like
an old pickup truck.  The other major issue was NO HEAT - the engine
warmed up but the flapper door in the heater box had lost its foam.
As a result, the interior remained at ambient which had been well
under FREEZING!!!  Fortunately a buddy of mine took care of that for
me since that's one thing I didn't want to tac!
  kle - pulling the heater box with an intact interior.

The running problem

Re: [a2-16v-list] Mis-fire from idle...

[Steven Arguello]

 I have the same problems!  1 mis-fire from idle (hasn't gone away  
after 1500 miles) 2 No heat (need some help with that) 3 made it home  
on parking lights- missing bolt on alternator support (fixed that)


How do you fix the flapper door? Bentley doesn't say much.

Are Digifant injectors the same as CIS-E? I'm pretty sure one's bad.  
I'll check the throttle though.


Steve





On Mar 10, 2007, at 10:12 AM, Matthew Yip wrote:

It just dawned on me that I never posted my final disposition (and  
also to try and get this list out of suspended animation).


After 5 months of "maintenance" and having been parked for 3 1/2  
years, I finally got the '89 16v GTi on the road and legal.  I know  
I'm slow when working on cars but I had other things going on at the  
same time so I really didn't take me 5 months to change a timing  
belt, water pump, radiator, injector seals and fluid flushes - honest  
  Admittedly I hit a few snags like replacing all the hoses only  
to find that the radiator was leaking (probably because of the fresh  
hoses) or that the axle cup seal that decided to fail because I had  
the car on jack stands for too long but it's mostly complete now  
which is a huge step forward.


I took the car out for a few trial runs late at night because the  
Safety Inspection was dead.  There's nothing like trying out a car  
that is questionable on a sub-freezing night at 2300h when you're  
alone and you live by yourself in the country - call me stupid, you  
won't be the first.  The good news was that while the brakes were a  
bit touchy, everything held together.  The rear calipers appeared to  
be good but have proven to be frozen - either that or the  
proportioning valve has died - the front brakes don't do much but the  
rears work like a champ.  It's fun to hurtle to a stoplight, hammer  
the brakes and counter-steer as the rear tries to pass the front like  
an old pickup truck.  The other major issue was NO HEAT - the engine  
warmed up but the flapper door in the heater box had lost its foam.   
As a result, the interior remained at ambient which had been well  
under FREEZING!!!  Fortunately a buddy of mine took care of that for  
me since that's one thing I didn't want to tac!

 kle - pulling the heater box with an intact interior.

The running problems started to go away as the car got more  
exercise.  As it had been parked for 3+ years, the gasoline that was  
in the tank was more like varnish and it smelled like it too.  I  
added 5 gallons when the car was "in process" and I added a bottle of  
RedLine SI-1.  While I didn't notice any change, I also hadn't driven  
the car much but I figured that it wouldn't hurt.  The more I drove  
it, the more I realized that it was gutless for a 16v but that it was  
starting to run smoother.  Always a fan of "more must be better", I  
added another bottle of SI-1 AND a bottle of Techron at the next fill- 
up.  About 50 miles into that tankful, the car sputtered and suddenly  
started sounding like a 16v - I can't explain it but the 16v has a  
very unique exhaust note that sounds significantly more aggressive  
than 2v/cylinder VW products.  Apparently all those cleaners had  
finally knocked all the crapola in the injectors free and they were  
spraying properly.


The next issue was the lack of power.  As had been suggested, I  
checked everything - vacuum lines, intake boots, injector seals - the  
whole gamut.  I've been around these cars long enough that I thought  
I could find the problem.  Finally I took it to my buddy who fixed  
the heater box after I told him "I checked everything, I'm stumped".   
He returned the car after checking specs and telling me that they  
were OK but that I should drive it to further exercise the equipment.


One night, I almost made it home when I realized the dash lights were  
awfully dim - hmm, new alternator isn't working, eh?  Fortunately I  
made it the remaining 3-4 miles on parking lights and a prayer.   
While I was underhood, I found the exciter wire had broken - an easy  
fix, whew.  While I was at it, I decided to check the accelerator  
cable even though another buddy had set it for me when he was at the  
house - not that it's difficult, just that he'd already done it so I  
figured that it was OK.  WRONG!  I jammed a piece of wood against  
the accelerator pedal and checked underhood.  I only had half- 
throttle!!!  No wonder the car was gutless - duh!!  2 minute later,  
the car has almost double the throttle response (go figure)!!!


Matthew





 


Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food & Drink Q&A.
http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=list&sid=396545367

___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.

[a2-16v-list] Loud Exhaust

[Steven Arguello]

TT Dynaflow exhaust got way too loud after running a gravel/sand road  
rally. Shop said it wasn't leaking anywhere, just the tip broke off.  
(I kept it) Put a new muffler in, still loud.  I'm still adjusting  
everything and haven't fully tightened the 2 clamps that hold the  
muffler. It's quiet @ idle, unbearable @ 3300 rpm. Do resonators wear  
out?

Any thoughts?
Thanks again,
Steve

[a2-16v-list] Stock engine?

[Steven Arguello]

Could someone post photos of a clean/stock engine. I have hoses and  
harnesses all over the place and don't really know where they go.

Thanks
Steve

Re: [a2-16v-list] Mis-fire from idle...

[Steven Arguello]

Have the exact same problem -sort of on-going since dropping in the  
2.0- but I have a new distributor and a new O2 sensor and coolant  
temp values according to Bentley. I have the Bentley CD version and I  
get lost in the fuel delivery section. I end up guessing. Cold  
Running Enrichment, Cold Acceleration Enrichment? Since my problem  
gets better as it warms up the problem my guess it has to be DPR  
related. Right?
I thought DPR amperage was the lower the richer and 5mA average for  
normal warm running. Cold start is >120mA?? Cold running enrichment  
80 to 100 mA. I probably messed these up trying to nail that +-5mA.

Going to check these values again.

On Dec 26, 2006, at 11:27 AM, Anthony Pelletier wrote:


Any oil in the distributor?  How's the resistance on
the coolant sensor?  How does it drive after 2000 rpm?
--- Matthew Yip  wrote:


LOL - the brake cleaner I'm using is the
old-fashioned "kills everything and more" stuff from
CRC.  I once tried the non-chlorinated brake cleaner
and discovered that it cleans nothing.

I checked all the rubber intake boots closely and
don't see anything.  I've verified that the O2
sensor and DPR are functioning - I've set specs on
this car so many times that I can almost do it in my
sleep.  Maybe that's the problem - I've been working
in my sleep again...

This car was parked for 3 years so anything is
possible - haven't changed the fuel filter yet but
will make this my next priority.  When I got the car
started before I changed the T-belt, it revved OK
(or so I vaguely remember) so I didn't think that
was a problem.  However in retrospect, I have the
damn filter so I mind as well "do it".  I wonder if
I should use my propane torch to "loosen" the
fittings .  I haven't doused the fuel distributor
plate with carb cleaner - it doesn't look nearly as
bad as the one on my racecar BUT again, anything is
possible.  Then I'll start playing with the engine
electronics.

When I start the car cold, it fires right up and
seems to rev freely but then it begins to stumble at
idle and almost die.  Once it gets fully warm, it
idles fine but doesn't want to rev off idle.

Thanks Ricky & Holland for your advice - keep your
fingers crossed that I figure it out before going to
the nuthouse.

Matthew

- Original Message 
From: Rick 
To: Matthew Yip ;
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 11:55:36 PM
Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] Mis-fire from idle...

Dont be like me once, and used non caustic
(non-flammable) brake cleaner!
=)

I'm sure you've checked the fuel dizzy boot,
underneath, for cracks in the
accordian section?

Also sounds like the ign. isnt adjusting on throttle
tip-in..  have you
verified ignition timing functionality on rev
increase?  Fuel filter?
Sticky fuel dizzy plate?

Ricky in Virginia


- Original Message -
From: "Matthew Yip" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, December 25, 2006 11:41 PM
Subject: [a2-16v-list] Mis-fire from idle...



I'm now officially frustrated and confused - I've

been working on getting

an '89 GTi 16v back in fighting shape for use as

my commuter/autocrosser

since late August.  Yeah, I'm slow - sue me -

between club racing, Grand

Am Cup and Enduro  races, I've been a wee-bit busy

and working in a hot

and steamy (or now ice-cold) shop wasn't extremely

enticing.


In any case, the symptoms are that the car

stumbles significantly off

idle.  However, once the rpms hit about 2000, it

revs freely "like it

should".  The car has fresh injector seals, plugs,

cap & rotor as well as

a new timing belt.  I've checked the cam and

ignition timing and it's

spot-on.  I've also done the old "spray all the

possible vacuum leak areas

with brake clean" to check for leaks to no avail.

Any thoughts or

suggestions?  Coolant temp sensor?

I had the Rabbit Truckette parked next to the GTi

over the summer while I

had the injection pump rebuilt - maybe it hexed

the GTi so that I wouldn't

sell the Truckette in Spring...

I'd keep banging my head against the wall but the

wall is starting to

crumble...

Thanks all
Matthew



__
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam

protection around

http://mail.yahoo.com

___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com


http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list

For list archives, see listinfo link above.







__
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

___
a2-16v-list mailing list
a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
For list archives, see listinfo link above.




__
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com
___

Re: [a2-16v-list] my car was full of water

[Steven Arguello]

My Gti is a little too ghetto for my northern NJ whitebread town. On a curvy 
hilly backroad one town over I passed a cop coming the other way. He could only 
have seen me for less than a couple of seconds. A mile down the road he pulls 
me over. He says he had me doing 48 in a 35 zone (I was doing about that).(Can 
they clock if you're only in front of them for a couple of seconds?) I told him 
I didn't think that was possible because I happened to have my handheld GPS on 
and I was comparing it to the speedo. I could replay the track for him and show 
him I was doing 35( I only know how to do it on a PC). He said yeah sure but it 
wouldn't show where I was doing 35. I said it would. He ran my license and reg, 
and comes back a little while later and says, How does that GPS work now? I 
told him that it's always recording time, position, altitude etc. He let me go.
So, he made up the 48mph stuff just because the car looked -urban-. 

Steve

- Original Message -
From: ProFormance
[mailto:ri...@pro-formance.com]
To: A2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
Sent: Tue,
10 Oct 2006 16:11:46 -0400
Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] my car was full of
water


> Les -
> State law requires that tags (if required by that state) be fitted to both 
> ends of the vehicle, prior to leaving the dealership's location.  No tag 
> bracket where required, equals no passing state inspection.  Non-passing 
> inspections halt the dealership's ability to actually sell the car.  This 
> applies to reputable dealerships, mind you ;)  Theres always those shady 
> joints out there..
> 
> Ricky
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Les Noriel" 
> To: "DocWyte" ; "Holland Phillips" ; 
> "Chad Rebuck" 
> Cc: "Jack Simon" ; 
> Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 4:01 PM
> Subject: Re: [a2-16v-list] my car was full of water
> 
> 
> > That's been going on here in Southern California as well. Its a response 
> > to the street racing that is occurring. You can get inspected by a police 
> > officer for the presence of additional gauges on your dashboard. One of 
> > the factors is A-pillar installed gauges, used to determine if a car 
> > should be pulled over. If spotted, its enough for enforcement officers to 
> > pull you over.
> >
> > Sad but there are lots of irresponsible kids driving out there with 
> > superfast cars.
> >
> >
> > Which reminds me-- I got back from a recent vacation to Hawaii. Upon 
> > returning to my car, I found a ticket for no licence plate on the front of
> 
> > my Jeep Cherokee. I know lots of new cars dont even have accomodations for
> 
> > front license plate. So how does that work?
> >
> > -Les
> > 
> ___
> a2-16v-list mailing list
> a2-16v-list@mail.a2-16v.com
> http://mail.a2-16v.com/mailman/listinfo/a2-16v-list
> For list archives, see listinfo link above.
> 

[a2-16v-list] Injectors

[Steven Arguello]

I'm glad you're all back...


What differences are between Motronic and cis-e injectors? Which  
should I use in a 9A w/stock cis-e? I have 4 of each.


Thanks.
Steve

[a2-16v-list] Passing this on

[Steven Arguello]

Wanted: Mid 80s VW for ITB racing. I'm ready to get started and would  
like to find a car ready or close to it. Current log book and legal  
for ITB inspection. Some updates or work needed would be fine. What I  
need is a good starter car. Also looking for a trailer preferably  
aluminum. Email is the best as I am on the road quite often and is  
easier to check.


Terry - hd5...@aol.com

[a2-16v-list] Anyone selling cams?

[Steven Arguello]

Email me off-list please.
Thanks,
Steve