Re: Buying a SILVER MZ-S and/or a BLACK MZ-3 (ZX-5n) in USA?

2001-11-17 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Hi ... you might want to take a look at this page:

http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/cameras/mitsuba.html

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Anyone. How?
 1) Where do I buy a SILVER MZ-S while living (not leaving) in the USA?
 2) Same with a BLACK MZ-3 or ZX-5n
 Feel free to apply offline to:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/pow/enter_pow.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/cameras/pentax_repair_shops.html
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Re: Auro Show Snaps

2001-11-17 Thread Shel Belinkoff

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I said:
 
  to shoot a few frames or make a series of exposures of a
  certain person or group of people, once the flash goes 
  off the mood is ruined, or at least changed, 
  from what I would be trying to capture, that being
  fleeting moments, subtle interactions, and the dynamics 
  of people in specific situations.

Mafud replied:
 
 Honestly, you ~truly~ expect to get all 
 that from a crowd at a ~car~ show?

And I amplified my remarks:

Yes ... I'm very good at that type of photography.

Mafud continued:

 Maybe if you were speaking of surreptitious shooting 
 at an auction of rare gazillion dollar cars you'd find 
 your anticipated crowd. But in that crowd, shooting with 
 anything less than a Leica M and a SUMICRON?(sp) f/1.2, 
 50 mm lens or other, would show others you really didn't 
 understand ~where~ you were.

And I replied:

Well, golly-gee-whiz. I certainly plan to use one or two of my Leicas,
and the appropriate Summicrons.  BTW, the Leica 50mm/f1.2 is the early
version of the Noctilux, which has been superseded by the 50mm/f1.0
version.

While Mafud commented further:

 You'd be better off finding the crowd you 
 seek shooting in a museum, a place where 
 introspective people are part of the ambiance. 
 But a CAR SHOW? PLEASE!!

To which I incredulously responded:

Are you suggesting that people don't have interactions at a car show? 
That there are no dynamics and relationships between people at a car
show?  If so, you don't know what you're talking about.  people are
people, everywhere, and in every venue.  And frankly, having been to
several major auto auctions, I can tell you that there's more
interesting stuff happening at the car show, not that there's nothing
interesting happening at an auction.

Then Mafud rambled further, having missed an earlier point:

 But ... but, you actually WANT to get all 
 those yucky colors? PLEASE! Or are you saying 
 you didn't know that shooting ~color~ film under 
 mixed lighting would give mixed results?

And I reiterated:

What did I just say?  It's a learning experience for me.  I rarely shoot
color, so I don't know what kind of results I'll get.

Mafud quoting me and commenting:

  No flash is needed for B don't have to worry about color balance and
  custom printers, and I can concentrate on the subjects at hand.
 
 But ...but you gave ~no~ indication of all that in your question. Your
 question, worded as it was, led me and others to believe you were going to
 shoot the ~show~, the stars of which are...cars, with beautiful, glossy paint
 jobs, the shooting of which without flash would give you yucky (color
 print/slide) results.

And I answered:

Well, that's what you chose to read into my question.  Here's exactly
what I wrote:

The San Francisco Auto Show is coming up, and 
it may be nice to grab a few color snaps of the 
folks drooling over the new offerings.  I rarely
shoot color neg, so a few suggestions would be 
helpful.  It seems like this is a job for one of 
those Fuji films with the extra layer, to take
care of the fluorescent lighting, right?

See, not a word was said about photographing the cars, just the folks
drooling over the new offerings.  

Then Mafud asked a question which was answered earlier:

 But in color, under the variety of lighting found in each
 venue? You'd need filter(s) and luck to get what you asked.

And I reiterated:

Indeed - and filters were suggested and I noted that I'd look into
getting some.  I also asked about specific colored filters in subsequent
messages.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/pow/enter_pow.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/cameras/pentax_repair_shops.html
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Re: Kerrekshun

2001-11-17 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

Well it was 20+ years ago. Shortly after that huge blimp size light boxs
with several 4800 watt second strobe heads got popular. Now I think they are
going back to hot lights using HMI type equipment, but I no longer have any
access to those kinds of studios.

Styles change. In portrature it was keg lights, then strobes, then strobes
with unbrellas, then strobes with light boxes, then strobes with large
reflectors. Now? I think the leading edge photographers are going back to
hot lights, but I am definately out of the loop anymore.

--graywolf
-
The optimist's cup is half full,
The pessimist's is half empty,
The wise man enjoys his drink.


- Original Message -
From: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 1:43 AM
Subject: Kerrekshun


 I errantly wrote:

  Not so. All car photographers in studios use strobes.


 Amend that, in light of Tom's explanation. MOST car photographers in
studios
 (that I've ever seen, anyway) use strobes.
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Re: Not Scrunk

2001-11-17 Thread Tom Rittenhouse

So? You are going to quible over one lousy letter are you, Mite? grin

Strunk  White. Elements of Style for those who do not know what we are
talking about.

--graywolf
-
The optimist's cup is half full,
The pessimist's is half empty,
The wise man enjoys his drink.


- Original Message -
From: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 1:40 AM
Subject: Not Scrunk


 graywolf wrote:

  All those commas ought to make it easier for well educated people to
  understand though White  Scrunk will be somewhat upset at the lack of
  style.

 William Strunk, Jr.

 --Mike
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Wanted in Australia - broken lens

2001-11-17 Thread Paul Ewins

Hi,
I'm after a k-mount lens to use in a project. The optics, including
diaphragm etc will be thrown away so basically any lens with a k-mount will
do. I would prefer the focussing helicoid to be working though.
Probable candidates would be something in the 28 - 50mm range. I've tried
the local Crime Converters and they had nothing useful and still wanted $30+
for anything, no matter how ratty.
So if you've got a lens with a big chip on the element or maybe even fungus
that you can't use please email me.

thanks,

Paul Ewins
Melbourne, Australia
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Re: Film, was Re: Auto Show Snaps

2001-11-17 Thread Bob Rapp

Who's paper was the minilab using. There is a difference between Kodak and
Fuji paper emulsions. Kodak looks better on Kodak paper and Fuji looks
better on Fuji paper.

Bob

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


  I must admit that during the 5 months I've been employed at a minilab,
the
  best overall photographs (most of them don't deserve the name
photograph)
  I've seen have been those shot on Kodak Gold 200.
 

 Hey Bill.

 POP PHOTOGRAPHY ran a test in 1999 of color films where the whole GOLD
family
 took top honors over other consumer products.

 Mafud
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Re: Low budget WA?

2001-11-17 Thread Gary J Sibio

At 01:30 PM 11/15/01 -0600, you wrote:
Does anyone have any experience with the 19mm Vivitar?  I realize this by
far no pro lens but it affords me a wider angle than my current 28mm
limit.

It's alright but nothing to write home about. If you can afford to do 
better, I would. I read the warnings about its problems with flare before I 
bought it and have made sure to keep the sun out of the picture when using it.



Gary J. Sibio
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Re: pacific image film scanner-opinions

2001-11-17 Thread RobFilms

good morning pug-sters:

looking at perhaps purchasing my 1st film scanner.  i remember reading a few 
weeks/months back about the pacific image 1800u.  a local shop now has them 
in stock.

could those w/real-world experience share some of their experiences?

since i usually don't shoot slides, for those who do shoot print film, do u 
no longer have prints made at a lab but now scan from your negatives?

w/o starting a holy war, how does this unit handle b/w film negatives?

my needs are modest.  i would be printing on an epson photo printer for my 
own viewing, usually 5x7, occasionally larger, and for web posting of images.

do u use the software that comes w/this scanner?

i use macs.  is that a problem w/this machine?  software-wise?
(for those mac-heads, what machine are u using w/this scanner  how much ram?)

again, and as always, thanks for any info u care to share.

be well

robo
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Re: Kerrekshun

2001-11-17 Thread David A. Mann

Tom Rittenhouse writes:

 Well it was 20+ years ago. Shortly after that huge blimp size light boxs
 with several 4800 watt second strobe heads got popular. Now I think they are
 going back to hot lights using HMI type equipment, but I no longer have any
 access to those kinds of studios.

 I'll let you use my studio if you like.  It has the biggest baddest hot light 
source available.  I don't charge much for using it but I do only have one light, 
and its not easily controllable so you'll have to bring your own reflectors.  The 
studio has plenty of diffusers but they tend to drip water everywhere, and 
some have built-in flashes that can go off without warning.

(I do landscapes...and I'm up too late...)

Cheers,


- Dave

David A. Mann, B.E. (Elec)
http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/

Why is it that if an adult behaves like a child they lock him up,
 while children are allowed to run free on the streets? -- Garfield
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pictures for your diningdancing pleasure

2001-11-17 Thread David Brooks

Hi all.
I put my Markham Fair band pictures on Photo.net

http://www.photo.net/photodb/presentation?presentation_id=125910

Got tired of waiting for tripod to work.
They are a bit soft,iquess dur to the lighting and movment
with the slow shutter speed.
Used delta 3200 at 3200 1/60 or 1/30 with 35-70 wide
open.
Comments welcome

Dave(high end iso)Brooks


Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada

Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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Re: Re: The Tom Rittenhouse Challenge

2001-11-17 Thread David Brooks

Hi Tom
I would like to send you a print of one of my horse
jumping shots taken with the D1 and printed from
a Canon S800.Is it to late??I'd be interested in your
feed back.

Dave

ps i'm shooting a show all weekend so i will not see
your reply until Sunday night at the earliest

Thanks
 Begin Original Message 
 From: Tom Rittenhouse [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sat, 17 Nov 2001 01:00:47 -0500
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: The Tom Rittenhouse Challenge

Yes, and Bills ability to make a good print has improved a lot. ove the last
one he showed me a few months back.

I rate his Epson 1270 a D.


--graywolf
-
The optimist's cup is half full,
The pessimist's is half empty,
The wise man enjoys his drink.


- Original Message -
 From: Bill Owens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 8:39 PM
Subject: The Tom Rittenhouse Challenge


 Well, the old curmudgeon grudgingly admitted that my prints from the Epson
 1270 were better than expected.  I would hazard a guess that coming from
 him that's quite a nice compliment :-)

 Seriously though, it was a very enjoyable afternoon.  The Pentax rep was
in
 town, but we were unable to run him down before I had to go to work.
Maybe
 next time.

 Bill, KG4LOV
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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 End Original Message 



Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada

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RE: pacific image film scanner-opinions

2001-11-17 Thread Paul M. Provencher

Let the Holy War begin...  (just kidding)

I have this scanner.  I'm using a PC but it works with Mac's and comes with the 
software for both.

It scans BW negatives, color negatives, and mounted or unmounted slides.

As an inexpensive solution it does well.  I am not very happy with the software that 
comes with it, but it does the job.

Even though I worked in a color lab and understand color print making very well, and 
have a good command of color light theory, I
have found it very difficult to make color-balanced scans using this device.  By 
comparison, my Microtek E-3 flatbed scanner (also a
budget device) and bundled software produce very well balanced scans with little 
trouble.

Your ability to use the software will determine your satisfaction with the scanner.  
If I could get the software to work the way I
want to, I'd be quite happy with the device.  It seems to work very easily with slides 
and black  white negatives.  Color negatives
is where I have trouble with it.

But color management issues aside, it produces very sharp images that are as large as 
you care to make them.  I do not make prints
from these images but I am sure with the correct printer and paper they would be very 
satisfactory.

ppro


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 4:35 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: pacific image film scanner-opinions



 good morning pug-sters:

 looking at perhaps purchasing my 1st film scanner.  i remember reading a few
 weeks/months back about the pacific image 1800u.  a local shop now has them
 in stock.

 could those w/real-world experience share some of their experiences?

 since i usually don't shoot slides, for those who do shoot print film, do u
 no longer have prints made at a lab but now scan from your negatives?

 w/o starting a holy war, how does this unit handle b/w film negatives?

 my needs are modest.  i would be printing on an epson photo printer for my
 own viewing, usually 5x7, occasionally larger, and for web posting of images.

 do u use the software that comes w/this scanner?

 i use macs.  is that a problem w/this machine?  software-wise?
 (for those mac-heads, what machine are u using w/this scanner  how much ram?)

 again, and as always, thanks for any info u care to share.

 be well

 robo
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RE: I just got engaged

2001-11-17 Thread Ed

Hmmm...  Interesting thought

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 10:00 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: OT: I just got engaged
 
 
 congratulations.  will all the wedding pictures be of 
 fingers?
 
 
 steve
 
 
 
 Yes, this is way off topic, but I just had to
 share...Nate asked me to marry him tonight and I
 accepted. :)
 
 Have a good weekend everyone!
 
 - --Amita
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RE: I just got engaged

2001-11-17 Thread Ed

Congratulations!  What's going on with all these PDML women getting
hooked up?

Thanks,
Ed
http://lightandsilver.com 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Amita Guha
 Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 9:21 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: OT: I just got engaged
 
 
 Yes, this is way off topic, but I just had to
 share...Nate asked me to marry him tonight and I
 accepted. :)
 
 Have a good weekend everyone!
 
 --Amita
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Re: where to buy film

2001-11-17 Thread Jim Moniz

Kits (Ritz) Cameras in Federal Way WA for amateur film (usually Fuji), RK
Photo in Auburn WA for BW, high speed and Agfa color film (my preferred
brand at the
moment.)
Jim
- Original Message -
From: Cory or Brenda Waters [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2001 5:58 AM
Subject: where to buy film


 Just a poll:
 Where do you buy your film?

 Cory Waters
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Re: SC69

2001-11-17 Thread Camdir

In a message dated 16/11/01 19:35:07 GMT Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Subject: Pentax Focusing Screen SC-69 on eBay ...
 
 ... with a very interesting BIN price ;-))
 
 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1298211887
  
Ouch!

Maybe I should try listing some DUTCH? About 20 should do the 
trick...

Kind regards from sunny Brighton

Peter
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Re: November PUG assignement

2001-11-17 Thread Steve Larson

Hi Cory,
 Thanks for taking the comment on my pic.  With regards to taking
the pic earlier, that might have worked but I don`t think the lights
would have shown up as well, it wasn`t even dark yet when I took
this one. You are correct about detail in the boats, Royal Gold
1000 did not push that well to 3200. Is there a good 3200 color
film out there? Sanary Sur Mer at Dusk by Allan Meller is also
one of my favorite photos, as Allan did not mention the ASA
speed and aperture settings (which I would like to know),
it was probably very dark when he took it, since it was
a 2 minute exposure. I still feel bad that I didn`t take time
to email Allen and congratulate him on his work.
 Of the several pics I took that evening, this one showed
the best because of the framing of the lights on the island,
and the reflection of the lights on the water between the
boats.  Maybe it would have looked better with the boats
in foreground centered, but IIRC the lights on the island
to the left did not look as appealing in the dark Spotmatic
viewfinder.
Thanks again Cory,
Steve Larson
Redondo Beach, California
- Original Message -
From: Cory or Brenda Waters [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 9:50 AM
Subject: November PUG assignement


 Avalon Harbor
 By Steve Larson

 I will confess that I wasn't drawn to this picture as one of my favorites
 this month.  Mean right off the bat, huh?  That's not to say it isn't
good,
 by any means.  I wonder if you could have gotten a better image a half
hour
 earlier.  A little more light might have made this a better look.  It
seems
 like the detail of the boats is lacking a bit.  I started to think about
it
 and remembered an image that kicked my butt a couple months ago that is
 kinda like this one.  Take a look at Sanary Sur Mer at Dusk by Allan
 Meller from the August gallery.  Again, the boat detail suffers a bit but
 the light is better and the buildings are better lit.  I know, you were on
a
 boat and you couldn't do the two min. exposure but well, I really liked
this
 one.  I would also have liked the boat (near-left) to have a little more
 space at the bow.  It feels like it's being cut-off.
 Thanks for submitting to the gallery and submitting yourself to comments
 from hacks like me :)

 Cory Waters
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Re: Rattlesnake Shake, Rattlesnake Yum

2001-11-17 Thread Collin Brendemuehl

Okeene, Oklahoma, has a hunt  cook every Spring.
Not the kind of activity I'd personally enjoy,
but ok for some, I guess.  Especially perhaps for
way-northerners. :)

Collin

...
I had a rattler chili once that was to die for.

William Robb


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

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Re: Rattlesnake Shake, Rattlesnake Yum

2001-11-17 Thread Wendy Beard

At 06:46 17-11-2001 -0500, you wrote:
From: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Rattlesnake Shake, Rattlesnake Yum

- - Original Message -
From: Mike Johnston 
Subject: Rattlesnake Shake, Rattlesnake Yum

 
   It feels slippery and about gives me a
   heart attack when I see the snake in the bag.
 
 
  P.S. I actually ate rattlesnake once. At camp in Montana when
I was 13.
  Killed it with a double-bladed axe in the John Marshall
Wilderness, and
  skinned it and sliced it to pieces and fried the cutlets in a
pan. Even
  AFTER it was cooked, the cutlets were still twitching.

Good job!!! If it has stopped twitching, it's overcooked.
Yum.
My favourite rattlesnake recipe:
Take the meat from a FRESH (not frozen) rattler and lay it out
on a piece of aluminium foil.
Add salt and cayenne pepper to taste and work into the meat (it
twitches pretty good while your doing this, let me tell you).
Lightly butter the meat and sprinkle on fresh savoury, dill and
a bit of oregano. Dice an onion and toss some of that on too.
Wrap the meat in the foil, at least 2 layers and cook above a
hot coal bed, generally for about 20 to 30 minutes, turning
every five minutes or so.

I had a rattler chili once that was to die for.

William Robb

This has got to be the grossest thread yet!
Twitching meat?
Eeuurgh, put me right off my breakfast

Wendy
(back to foraging for nuts  berries)


---
Wendy  Paul Beard
Ottawa, Canada
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Film, was Re: Auto Show Snaps

2001-11-17 Thread SudaMafud

In a message dated 11/17/01 4:10:12 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 
 Who's paper was the minilab using. There is a difference between Kodak and
 Fuji paper emulsions. Kodak looks better on Kodak paper and Fuji looks
 better on Fuji paper.
 
 

Bob!
BOB! 

I took a six-months whipping from the list for saying that very same thing. 
There are those on this (and other) lists who say there is no difference, but 
we ~know~ better, don't we Bob?

Mafud
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Not a NYC Mailing List was: where to buy film

2001-11-17 Thread SudaMafud

In a message dated 11/17/01 10:15:58 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 Hehe...maybe Bob Harris, Mafud and I could form a
 QueensML... ;)
 

Any day!
Mafud
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Re: Photography in Mali, once again

2001-11-17 Thread SudaMafud

In a message dated 11/17/01 12:59:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 ISO 400 is surely way too fast for outdoor shots most of the time - you'll 
 be stuck with very small apertures, or you'll have to use ND filters, which 
 will darken your viewfinder considerably.

But ISO 400 film of the same class and genre is less contrasty. 






Mafud
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[Fwd: Kodak Bullish on Mail Sanitizing]

2001-11-17 Thread Joseph Tainter

From rec.photo.film+labs

Joe

 Original Message 
Subject: Kodak Bullish on Mail Sanitizing
Date: 17 Nov 2001 17:54:41 GMT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (DBaker9128)
Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com
Newsgroups: rec.photo.film+labs

Things are looking up for those of us using slide processing mailers,
etal:

http://www.kodak.com/US/en/corp/aboutKodak/sanitize.shtml

Doug from Tumwater
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Re: Kerrekshun

2001-11-17 Thread SudaMafud

In a message dated 11/17/01 12:59:26 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 HMI is constant and constant in its output, 

OOPs!
That should have been: ...consistent and constant.

Mafud
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Re: Auro Show Snaps

2001-11-17 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Well Len, there's not much I can say in response to your remarks.  
There's no point in discussing who I am, or my style of working, with
someone who is apparently as closed minded and judgemental as you are. 
To judge someone by their physical appearance, without ever even having
met them, is truly indicative of a very narrow minded person.  Perhaps
you need to get the prescription for your eye glasses changed - you seem
to be suffering from short sightedness and tunnel vision.  Maybe some
lenses with a wider field of view and greater depth of field g.

Take care ...

lbparis wrote:
 
 - Original Message -
 From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 9:25 AM
 Subject: Re: Auro Show Snaps
 
  Len, you'd be very surprised at how unobtrusive I can be.
 I've stood
  within a foot or two of people and gotten off half a dozen
 frames
  without them being aware.  If you look through Juan's photos
 you'll see
  one or two that exemplify just that.
 
 That's just your interpretation of the facts.  In actuality,
 they are just hoping that, if they pretend you're not there,
 perhaps they'll be able to escape with their lives.
 
  Further, when people see me, or when I want to be seen, I am,
 for some
  reason, very non-threatening.  People want me to photograph
 them.  If I
  was using flash, or big, loud cameras, many people might not
 tolerate
  what I do.
 
 And I'm sure that, if you were carrying a gun instead of a
 camera, they would want you to hold them up, too.
 
  I took a workshop with Baron Wolman this past spring.  During
 a break he
  suggested that it would be OK if I photographed him while he
 was
  speaking to the class.  I'd been sitting but five or six feet
 from him
  all morning and shot almost an entire roll of film with him as
 the
  subject, and he didn't even know it.
 
 My first comment applies here, too.
 
  My cloaking device is my affability, respect for the people
 I
  photograph, and an openness which invites my subjects to
 participate in
  the experience should they see me working.  I can also be very
 quiet,
  and regardless of my size, can disappear into the scenery and
 become
  almost invisible. For whatever reason, be it my choice of
 cameras, my
  personality, or my ability to sense what's appropriate at a
 given
  moment, the people who I photograph enjoy the experience, even
 if they
  don't want to be photographed.
 
 I find that hard to believe.  It's just not the picture of the
 Shel Bellicose I've seen in action here in the PDML.  But I'll
 grant the possibility that you are unaware of how intimidating
 you are.
 
  I invite you to come shooting with me some time.  I can assure
 you it
  will be an eye-opening experience for you.  HAR!
 
 Probably more like an eye-closing experience, isn't that what
 you mean?  No thanks, I have to wear glasses in order to see.
 The shards would be way too sharp and painful.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/pow/enter_pow.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/cameras/pentax_repair_shops.html
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Re: Auro Show Snaps

2001-11-17 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Gee Mafud ... you've discovered the truth.  May I suggest that you and
Len Paris get together - I'm sure you'll have much to discuss.  Take
care my friend.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 In a message dated 11/17/01 3:32:03 AM Eastern Standard Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
  Indeed - and filters were suggested and I noted that I'd look into
  getting some.  I also asked about specific colored filters in subsequent
  messages.
 
 
 Hey Shel, even though you tried to insult me, as here:
 Then Mafud (rambled) further, having missed an earlier point:;
 I forgive you.
 
 Your original question was one of a photographic neophyte, someone who knew
 little or nothing about color photography. But you ~DO~ know ~something~
 about color in that you expressed concern about the fluorescent lighting and
 knowing they influence color balance.
 I've begun to think 1. You know a lot more about color than you care to admit
 2. You wanted the list to know you're shooting a car show.
 Bully for you!
 
 Be well.
 
 Mafud
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 FYI: you're the second person to attempted to be nasty or condescending since
 I came back to the list.
 Note, I said Attempted.

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/pow/enter_pow.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/cameras/pentax_repair_shops.html
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Re: First 6-mp full-frame digital SLR is out

2001-11-17 Thread Jan van Wijk

On Fri, 16 Nov 2001 19:12:44 -0500, Mark Roberts wrote:

I certainly wouldn't have spent a
thousand dollars on a new body (MZ-S) to go with my existing lenses if I thought
I'd have to replace them soon to go with a different brand digital SLR. I just
bought Ed Mathews 43/1.9 Limited but that's going to be my last Pentax lens or
body purchase until I'm confident that there'll be a compatible digital body in
the near future. I can't afford to go down a dead end path. (I don't think I am,
by the way; I'm just being cautious.)

I feel exactly the same, I was planning on buying the 3-lens limited set (31, 43 and 
77)
for my MZ-3 / PZ1 / LX,  and waiting for the MZ-D to use them on later.

I will certainly wait for a formal announcement of a new Pentax Digital SLR now!

I hope it will be a 4 to 5Mp, with a focal-multiplier of 1.3 or 1.4.

If that is offered for US $3000 to $3500 with other specs comparable to the MZ-D,
I will get one for sure ...

Regards, JvW

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Re: pentax-discuss-digest V1 #1574

2001-11-17 Thread Otis Wright, Jr.

I kept a dozen or so copies around the office.  Gave them out to
associates/employees who sent me documents I found to be exceedingly
difficult/distracting to navigateAnd, for those who continued to .. we
had the returned unread stamp ..

Of course, I never read it myself --- as you can see.

Otis

Mike Johnston wrote:

 Tom R. wrote:

  So? You are going to quible over one lousy letter are you, Mite? grin

 Not me, Straywolf. g

  Strunk  White. Elements of Style for those who do not know what we are
  talking about.

 A wonderful book. E.B. White is a master stylist of English, and Strunk was
 his teacher at Cornell in 1919; White later edited and amplified Strunk's
 book for commercial publication, since which time it has been a classic.

 White on Strunk's book: In its original form, it was a forty-three page
 summation of the case for cleanliness, accuracy, and brevity in the use of
 English. Today...its vigor is unimpaired, and for sheer pith I think it
 probably sets a record that is not likely to be broken. ... Seven rules of
 usage, eleven principles of composition, a few matters of form, and a list
 of words and expressions commonly misused--that was the sum and substance of
 Professor Strunk's work.

 I have a short shelf of books, some of them practical nonfiction, that
 comprise the best, most Universally worthy, most rewarding books I know of,
 culled from a lifetime as a reader. _The Elements of Style_ is on that
 shelf, and I probably have three more copies scattered around on other
 shelves, and I've probably given away more than a dozen copies in my life.
 To anyone who doesn't already know it, very highly recommended.

 --Mike

 If you want to witness the principles in action, get any version of _Essays
 of E.B. White_, which, having now reminded myself of it, I won't be able to
 resist rereading for the fourth or fifth time.
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Re: Rattlesnake Shake, Rattlesnake Yum

2001-11-17 Thread Treena Harp

It's not bad, really. My dad (the Mighty Hunter) used to bring home all
sorts of odd stuff for us to try. Southern-fried rattler is yummy! And for
the record, frog legs jump around in the pan while they cook -- it's dinner
AND a show.

- Original Message -
From: Robert Harris [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: Rattlesnake Shake, Rattlesnake Yum


 Wendy Beard wrote:


 
  This has got to be the grossest thread yet!
  Twitching meat?
  Eeuurgh, put me right off my breakfast

 Don't worry about the twitching. Even when it is done twitching and is
 fully cooked, etc., it still tastes like, well...

 I won't say it since I have not yet had my breakfast.

 Bob
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Photographing documents - Slide film, flash? and lens type

2001-11-17 Thread Maris V. Lidaka, Sr.

Turning into a busy weekend.  I finished last night's ballet performance and now have 
a new project I need help on.

I have never used slide film, and have photographed only people and places.  My 
daughter is submitting an application to a College of Design and they require slides 
of her design drawings.

First question - the College FAQs suggest shooting outdoors in daylight, which is 
possible.  Should I do this or use flash?

Second question - what slide film for daylight, or what slide film for flash?

Third question - what focal length lens?  Short and up-close like 28-35mm, or perhaps 
a portrait-lens length of 100-135mm?

Maris
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Re: pacific image film scanner-opinions

2001-11-17 Thread harald_nancy

Rob,
I have the Pacific Image 1800u scanner, and have a kind of
love/hate relationship with it. I use it for slides only, because
mine doesn't seem to work well with negatives.
If the colors in a transparency are too subtle, the scanner
doesn't seem to recognize them.
It does an adequate job if the colors and contrast are strong.
From what I understand (correct me if I'm wrong), more
expensive scanners can recognize more colors.
Perhaps that's the limitation of the Pacific Image 1800u scanner.
I have a image in the November PUG, and I had it rescanned
with a Minolta scanner by a shop.
It looks much better than the scan of the same slide with the
Pacific Image on my website. The subtle amber light becomes
more apparent on the Minolta scan.
(Pacific Image scan can be found on my website under Port Townsend trip
report)
As a few weeks ago, I asked this list if I needed to invest
more for a slide scanner to get crisper results.
The software is not great, but it works. You can use
other purchased software, like Photoshop with the scanner.
Currently I'm using the software that came with my
Canon flatbed scanner.
Harald
http://www.geocities.com/harald_nancy/

- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 1:35 AM
Subject: Re: pacific image film scanner-opinions


 good morning pug-sters:

 looking at perhaps purchasing my 1st film scanner.  i remember reading a
few
 weeks/months back about the pacific image 1800u.  a local shop now has
them
 in stock.

 could those w/real-world experience share some of their experiences?

 since i usually don't shoot slides, for those who do shoot print film, do
u
 no longer have prints made at a lab but now scan from your negatives?

 w/o starting a holy war, how does this unit handle b/w film negatives?

 my needs are modest.  i would be printing on an epson photo printer for my
 own viewing, usually 5x7, occasionally larger, and for web posting of
images.

 do u use the software that comes w/this scanner?

 i use macs.  is that a problem w/this machine?  software-wise?
 (for those mac-heads, what machine are u using w/this scanner  how much
ram?)

 again, and as always, thanks for any info u care to share.

 be well

 robo
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Re: Photography in Mali, once again

2001-11-17 Thread Joseph Tainter

Bob Walkden wrote:

In Africa I've usually shot on slide film (K64), at least in recent
years. The contrast is too great most of the time so my solution has
been never to shoot until my shadow is longer than my height, or the
weather is slightly overcast. In the highlands of Ethiopia it is
viciously contrasty and never overcast, so I only shoot when shadows
are very long indeed. I get up at about 5am and shoot from before
sunrise until about 8-9am, at which time I find some shade or do
something non-photographic until about 4pm, when I can start again,
then early to bed. This happens to fit in with the way people live
there anyway.

If I absolutely have to shoot when the sun is high then I try to shoot
against the light (not always possible, it gets so high) because then
at least you get people's faces without the deep shadows. In this
situation I give up on the background.

When I go back again I may consider shooting on Supra 100 because of
this problem with contrast. I might also/instead shoot in black 
white. Unfortunately it seems to be an irresolvable problem. People
have advised me to use fill flash, but I hate it. ISO 400 is surely
way too fast for outdoor shots most of the time - you'll be stuck with
very small apertures, or you'll have to use ND filters, which will
darken your viewfinder considerably.

- ---

 Bob

Thanks, Bob. All very good advice. I'm out and about during the day
doing fieldwork (this is work, not a holiday, but very interesting
work), so when there is a good shot I have to take it regardless of the
light. Supra 100 is a possibility. With ISO 400, high shutter speeds
have eliminated the small aperture problem.

Joe
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Re: Rattlesnake Shake, Rattlesnake Yum

2001-11-17 Thread Otis Wright, Jr.

Please don't pass the entertainment.

Otis

Treena Harp wrote:

 It's not bad, really. My dad (the Mighty Hunter) used to bring home all
 sorts of odd stuff for us to try. Southern-fried rattler is yummy! And for
 the record, frog legs jump around in the pan while they cook -- it's dinner
 AND a show.

 - Original Message -
 From: Robert Harris [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 9:06 AM
 Subject: Re: Rattlesnake Shake, Rattlesnake Yum

  Wendy Beard wrote:
 
 
  
   This has got to be the grossest thread yet!
   Twitching meat?
   Eeuurgh, put me right off my breakfast
 
  Don't worry about the twitching. Even when it is done twitching and is
  fully cooked, etc., it still tastes like, well...
 
  I won't say it since I have not yet had my breakfast.
 
  Bob
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Film Developing

2001-11-17 Thread William D. Sawyer

I wrote a few days ago asking for pointers for developing Agfa APX 100 in Microdol-X. 
Since no one responded, I presume no one had any experience.  That being the case, can 
anyone suggest either a website or a darkroom book that might give the preferred 
dilution/development times for this combination.  I've been to Agfa and Kodak websites 
w/o success, and have emailed their respective technical people for their input. 

Is there any help here?

Bill Sawyer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Auro Show Snaps

2001-11-17 Thread dave o'brien

A scroll of mail from lbparis [EMAIL PROTECTED] on Sat, 17 Nov 2001
09:49:52 -0600
Read it? y
That's just your interpretation of the facts.  In actuality,
they are just hoping that, if they pretend you're not there,
perhaps they'll be able to escape with their lives.

I think this is a very harsh response.  I'm guessing you find it very
difficult to get natural, candid shots of people doing their normal
everyday stuff.

I'm similar: I think people will object to me sticking a camera in
their faces and so they do.  Friends who believe that people like
being photographed get much better results.  

I think it's a sort of personality projection.  If you radiate a field
of 'harmless photographer, just an ordinary bloke' you get on better
with people than if you radiate 'big-nose camera man'.

I find that hard to believe.  It's just not the picture of the
Shel Bellicose I've seen in action here in the PDML.  But I'll
grant the possibility that you are unaware of how intimidating
you are.

The most amazing people are capable of 'stealth photography'.  I've
got a friend who's a real dour Scot.  He uses an F5.  He can wander
through a market in Beijing and get real candid shots, even with an
enormous camera rig and the fact that his face doesn't fit.

It's very subtle, the difference in approach/personality, but it's
enough to let my friend get pictures of an old woman stirring roasting
chestnuts in a Hong Kong market, and I just get pictures of her
attacking me with a stick!

If you look at yer typical Photo Journalist (PJ) shot
(http://www.dirckhalstead.com the seven by seven article has some
superb examples), a PJ uses a 24mm lens and gets really close to the
subject, certainly close enough to get thumped.  How come all these
PJs get great pictures?  I think they're projecting a vibe which says
Your job is unbelieavably important.  It's so important that the
presence of a guy like me is of no importance and you should pay me no
attention. And they fade into the background.

Probably more like an eye-closing experience, isn't that what
you mean?  No thanks, I have to wear glasses in order to see.
The shards would be way too sharp and painful.

Once I was out with my friend mentioned above.  We were taking
pictures in one of Hong Kong's red light zones.  Two large men covered
in tattoos came up and asked us to stop taking pictures.  (Covered in
tattoos in HK means Triads, organised crime.)  My friend puts on a
dopey face and goes we wanted to take some pictures of the night
market and someone told us it was here, but we can't find it.  Now
bear in mind that we both have 6 foot tall tripods, huge bags (Domke
J2) full of cameras, at least one camera slung around the neck, light
meters, etc.  A blind man would decide that we were a pair of pro
photogs on a job.  So this thug, with a knife in his belt, who would
normally kill anyone who talks back, gives us directions back to the
night market (a big tourist attraction) and, with a big smile, says I
hope you like Hong Kong!

It's a skill. Blending in, getting the it's that bloke with the
camera again! rather than get that F@#$ing thing out of my F%$^ing
face! response.  It's a tremendous talent and, from seeing pics on
Shel in action, I think he has it.  Indeed, from seeing his pictures
where his subjects are aware of him and draw him in, he definitely has
it.

dave
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Re: Film Developing

2001-11-17 Thread LEDMRVM

In a message dated 11/17/2001 2:23:46 PM US Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 
  I wrote a few days ago asking for pointers for developing Agfa APX 100 in 
 Microdol-X. Since no one responded, I presume no one had any experience.  
 That being the case, can anyone suggest either a website or a darkroom book 
 that might give the preferred dilution/development times for this 
combination.
   I've been to Agfa and Kodak websites w/o success, and have emailed their 
 respective technical people for their input. 
  
  Is there any help here?
  
  

Try this.
 A HREF=http://www.digitaltruth.com/;Digitaltruth: Photo Source/A 

Ed M.
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Re: Film Developing

2001-11-17 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Hi Bill ...

Sorry I missed your earlier post.  Go here http://www.digitaltruth.com/
for what you're seeking.  Also, you might want to pick up a copy of The
Film Developing Cookbook by Anchell  Troop.

William D. Sawyer wrote:
 
 I wrote a few days ago asking for pointers 
 for developing Agfa APX 100 in Microdol-X. 
 [...] 
 Is there any help here?

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/pow/enter_pow.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/cameras/pentax_repair_shops.html
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Re[2]: Photography in Mali, once again

2001-11-17 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

yes, that's true, but of course it has problems of its own. As Joe has
pointed out fast shutter speeds have taken care of the small aperture
problem to some extent. But even with a camera with a top shutter
speed of 1/4000 the widest you can go in typical outdoor conditions is
f/5.6, which certainly restricts the options. At least with ISO 100 you
can get to f/2.8.

If you're unlucky enough to have a Leica M, a Pentax MX, or almost any of
the older generation cameras, then you're stuck at f/11.

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Saturday, November 17, 2001, 6:17:44 PM, you wrote:

 ISO 400 is surely way too fast for outdoor shots most of the time - you'll 
 be stuck with very small apertures, or you'll have to use ND filters, which 
 will darken your viewfinder considerably.

 But ISO 400 film of the same class and genre is less contrasty. 
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Re: Auro Show Snaps

2001-11-17 Thread dave o'brien

A scroll of mail from Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] on Sat,
17 Nov 2001 07:25:42 -0800
Read it? y
Len, you'd be very surprised at how unobtrusive I can be.  I've stood
within a foot or two of people and gotten off half a dozen frames
without them being aware.  If you look through Juan's photos you'll see
one or two that exemplify just that.

I'm reminded here of the film Leon with Jean Reno.  He describes the
training of an assassin.  A begriming  'cleaner' uses a high power
rifle and a telescopic sight.  An experienced cleaner may use a hand
gun and shoot from the hip, but a master gets right in there with a
knife.

When you're a street photographer, it's easy to start with a 200mm
lens and stay away.  As you get better, it'll get down to an 85 or
even a 50.  But a master is someone who can use a 20mm lens, inches
from someone's face and not be noticed.

dave
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Re[2]: Rattlesnake Shake, Rattlesnake Yum

2001-11-17 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

 And for
 the record, frog legs jump around in the pan while they cook -- it's dinner
 AND a show.

they must be doing the pan-pan...

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: November PUG assignement

2001-11-17 Thread Harry Baughman

konica used to have a 3200 speed film but they discontinued it 
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Re: Rattlesnake Shake, Rattlesnake Yum

2001-11-17 Thread aimcompute

 Actually your recipe and cooking method sounded great for just about any
kind of meat.

 When we go camping we frequently cook on the trucks engine while we are
traveling.  When we pull into camp we'll have something like a nice roast
with potatoes, onion, carrots.   Um Um Good.   There's an entire cookbook
devoted to the subject entitled Manifold Destiny.

 Gotta go wrap the salmon and corn on the cob in foil so I throw it in the
dishwasher for company tonight.

 Tom

 - Original Message -
 From: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Thomas Cakalic [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 10:20 AM
 Subject: Re: Rattlesnake Shake, Rattlesnake Yum


  Way to go Tom!
  'twas fun.
  L8R
  Bill
  - Original Message -
  From: aimcompute [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 10:48 AM
  Subject: Re: Rattlesnake Shake, Rattlesnake Yum
 
 
   Wendy Beard wrote:
  
This has got to be the grossest thread yet!
Twitching meat?
  
   I WIN! I WIN!
  
   Tom C.
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Re: pacific image film scanner-opinions

2001-11-17 Thread Leon Altoff

On Sat, 17 Nov 2001 04:35:08 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

good morning pug-sters:

looking at perhaps purchasing my 1st film scanner.  i remember reading a few 
weeks/months back about the pacific image 1800u.  a local shop now has them 
in stock.

could those w/real-world experience share some of their experiences?

since i usually don't shoot slides, for those who do shoot print film, do u 
no longer have prints made at a lab but now scan from your negatives?

I use the 1800u quite a lot and have found a system that works for me. 
I don't use the colour balancing in the scanner software at all.  I set
the scanner up in 36 bit mode and adjust the curves to cover the high
and low points of the scan and then scan it into photoshop and do
colour correction in there.  My standard colour correction is using the
levels control in photoshop  - hit the auto button then adjust mid blue
to about 70, mid green to about 84.  This gives me a good starting
point for fine tuning.  

They are now selling the Primefile with an option of new software
called Silverfast. 

You can get a demo version of the software from here
http://www.silverfast.com/silverfast/demos/pc-en.html

It is a lot better than the standard software for colour control, but
costs a bit too much for me.  Buying it bundled might make it worth
while.

I find it easier to scan negs than slides even though I scan more
slides than negs.  I have just coupled my 1800u with an Epson
810printer and have printed out some very nice A4 size prints.


 Leon

http://www.bluering.org.au
http://www.bluering.org.au/leon
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Re: Photography in Mali, once again

2001-11-17 Thread Bruce Dayton

Joseph,

I have shot the Optima and found it to be a bit contrasty.  To try to
get the people and landscape, I would try Fuji Reala 100 and/or Kodak
Portra 160NC.  Both are much lower contrast.

Have you ever considered a minor pop of flash?  You might be able to
hold the background and then let the flash fill-in (not full power) to
brighten the people.


Bruce Dayton



Saturday, November 17, 2001, 8:28:24 AM, you wrote:

JT It looks like I'll have a chance to return for fieldwork in northern
JT Mali in January. The landscape in the area has quite low contrast (all
JT shades of brown), but the sun is always quite bright. In the past, when
JT I have shot the dark-skinned people in this landscape, either their
JT faces are too dark to see details, or the background is blown out in
JT machine prints. (Hand-made prints are too expensive in quantity.) In the
JT past I've shot only color negative films. This time I'm thinking of
JT taking:

JT - Provia 100F for landscape photos.

JT - Something low contrast like NPH 400 for shots of people. (I like
JT negative film for people, because it is always appreciated when one
JT returns with prints to give away, and I don't want to give digital
JT prints for fear of fading in a few years).

JT In past trips to this area I have shot Agfa Optima 100, Fuji Superia
JT 100, Agfa Vista 100, and Ektapress PJ 400 (still have several rolls),
JT all with mixed results on machine prints.

JT What does everyone think of my selection? Other recommendations (and
JT reasons)?

JT Thanks,

JT Joe
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Re: Photographing documents - Slide film, flash? and lens type

2001-11-17 Thread Leon Altoff

On Sat, 17 Nov 2001 12:52:50 -0600, Maris V. Lidaka, Sr. wrote:

Turning into a busy weekend.  I finished last night's ballet performance and now have 
a new project I need help on.

This always happens to me.

I have never used slide film, and have photographed only people and places.  My 
daughter is submitting an application to a College of Design and they require slides 
of her design drawings.

First question - the College FAQs suggest shooting outdoors in daylight, which is 
possible.  Should I do this or use flash?

I recently copied a lot of old family photographs and got good results
doing it this way.  I bought a cheap clip together frame and used that
to hold the photos flat (Many of them had been sitting in boxes or
drawers and were curled or bent).  I set the camera up on a tripod and
used 2 flashes from the side at about 45 degrees so as to not get any
reflections off the glass.  If you use only one flash you get uneven
lighting or reflection off the document.  This is probably why they
recommend to use daylight - which would also work but if you are using
glass to hold it flat you get a lot more reflections.

Second question - what slide film for daylight, or what slide film for flash?

This depends on the contrast range of what you are copying.  I would
probably use Kodachrome 64 for most things, and do some bracketing to
make sure you get the drawing in it's best light.  I've heard that Fuji
Astia is good for subjects that have a wide contrast range, but I have
not used it.

Third question - what focal length lens?  Short and up-close like 28-35mm, or perhaps 
a portrait-lens length of 100-135mm?

A macro lens is probably best as it should give a flat field of focus
and less distortion, but it depends on how big the drawings are.

Hope this helps.


 Leon

http://www.bluering.org.au
http://www.bluering.org.au/leon
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Re[2]: Photography in Mali, once again

2001-11-17 Thread Bruce Dayton

Bob,

I found your post interesting.  I have shot quite a bit of Supra 100
and find it to be somewhat contrasty.  A good friend of mine just came
back from Africa having shot mostly Supra 100.  I can say that the
film didn't hold up all that well to the contrast.

I would certainly give Konica Impressa 50, Fuji Reala 100 and possibly
one of the portrait films a try.  In my test and usage, these films
handle high contrast much better.  They don't work as well when the
conrast drops too much.

I was also a bit surprised by your comment about hating fill flash.  I
am wondering why?  When done properly, the only telltale sign is a
catchlight in the eyes (usually a good thing).  I have done many shots with fill flash 
and
without (back to back) and when the shadows are strong, fill flash
really comes to the rescue.  Care to elaborate on your feelings?


Bruce



Saturday, November 17, 2001, 9:59:15 AM, you wrote:

BW Hi,

Snip

BW When I go back again I may consider shooting on Supra 100 because of
BW this problem with contrast. I might also/instead shoot in black 
BW white. Unfortunately it seems to be an irresolvable problem. People
BW have advised me to use fill flash, but I hate it. ISO 400 is surely
BW way too fast for outdoor shots most of the time - you'll be stuck with
BW very small apertures, or you'll have to use ND filters, which will
BW darken your viewfinder considerably.

BW ---

BW  Bob  

BW mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

BW Saturday, November 17, 2001, 4:28:24 PM, you wrote:

 It looks like I'll have a chance to return for fieldwork in northern
 Mali in January. The landscape in the area has quite low contrast (all
 shades of brown), but the sun is always quite bright. In the past, when
 I have shot the dark-skinned people in this landscape, either their
 faces are too dark to see details, or the background is blown out in
 machine prints. (Hand-made prints are too expensive in quantity.) In the
 past I've shot only color negative films. This time I'm thinking of
 taking:

 - Provia 100F for landscape photos.

 - Something low contrast like NPH 400 for shots of people. (I like
 negative film for people, because it is always appreciated when one
 returns with prints to give away, and I don't want to give digital
 prints for fear of fading in a few years).

 In past trips to this area I have shot Agfa Optima 100, Fuji Superia
 100, Agfa Vista 100, and Ektapress PJ 400 (still have several rolls),
 all with mixed results on machine prints.

 What does everyone think of my selection? Other recommendations (and
 reasons)?

 Thanks,

 Joe
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Re: Len's Opinion Site - Beta version of update available

2001-11-17 Thread Stan Halpin

Thanks David. 
What is posted now is 3.0b2 (3.0b1 was up when I sent my first message.)
Rob Studdard pointed out that the .shtml code is not recognized by Netscape,
so I went back and removed (most?) of the offending code. At this point you
should be able to access version 3.0b2 via:
home.kc.rr.com/smhalpin/index.html   or
home.kc.rr.com/smhalpin/

Once we get these glitches straightened out, I'll go ahead and move version
3.0 over to the concentric.net site. But then I am going to try to revamp
the design to revise or get rid of the frames architecture. At this point
the Detailed Comments is at about 360k. Even with a fast cable modem, the
initial load is slow; even with a fast computer the retrieval from the cache
is slow. So I am going to somehow chunk the content into smaller pieces.

Bear with me. I have been using and occasionally programming computers since
I first used an IBM 401(?) 1410 (?) Accounting Machine for statistical
programs in 1963. And I will keep on using them until I get it right. But I
am not there yet.

Stan


 From: David S. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: Len's Opinion Site - Beta version of update available
 
 Stan Halpin wrote:
 
 1. Background. In the fall of '98 I published a collection of information I
. . .
 
 The site is, of course, www.concentric.net/~smhalpin
 . . .
 
 If you would like to view, and give me comments on, the new material, please
 go to  home.kc.rr.com/smhalpin/index.shtml
 
 . . .

 Again, the NEW material is at home.kc.rr.com/smhalpin/index.shtml
 and comments should come to me directly at [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 
 I got a page not found error using the exact URL listed above.  It works using
 http://home.kc.rr.com/smhalpin/
 
 Didn't go through the entire site but same great stuff as old site.
 
 David S.
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Re: Film Developing

2001-11-17 Thread Gianfranco Irlanda

Hi Bill,

Try:

http://www.digitaltruth.com/

Gianfranco


- Original Message - 
From: William D. Sawyer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax Discuss [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 8:21 PM
Subject: Film Developing


 I wrote a few days ago asking for pointers for developing Agfa
APX 100 in Microdol-X. Since no one responded, I presume no one
had any experience.  That being the case, can anyone suggest
either a website or a darkroom book that might give the
preferred dilution/development times for this combination.  I've
been to Agfa and Kodak websites w/o success, and have emailed
their respective technical people for their input. 
 
 Is there any help here?
 
 Bill Sawyer
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Auro Show Snaps

2001-11-17 Thread Rfsindg

Len, arguing about Shel's shooting style, suggests he must be threatening and 
is way too tall to be stealthy...

Len,

Shel visited Chicago this summer and I got a chance to shoot some with him.
I learned alot about shooting people by just watching his body language and 
how he approached people.  It was inspiring for me, as I have worked most on 
objects and not people.  Shel has a unique ability to engage people who are 
near him with a warm smile and a ready greeting.  It's kind of a disarming 
charm...and then he asks them if he can photograph them!

We encountered two Chicago Police officers that morning.  The first was a 
veteran traffic officer, female, probably 5' 6 tall, Black and grumpy.  Shel 
disarmed her (not literally) and got some pictures of her.  I'm sure she 
didn't know why Shel wanted the shots.  

The other officer was also a woman, mounted on horseback.  Shel stopped to 
take pictures of her on horseback and stopped to talk.  When she noticed both 
of us, she volunteered to pose with Shel and the horse for me!  I tell you, 
Shel has magic powers!

We also stopped for a couple of beers and Shel got off some shots with the M3 
of an odd couple around the elbow of the bar before I recognized he was doing 
anything.  He can be stealthy.

Regards,  Bob S. 
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TTL multiflash with METZ

2001-11-17 Thread Frantisek Vlcek

Hi,
   I use the German SCA 300 system, with Metz flashes. I have been
   thinking about the multiflash adapter SCA 605A (or which # it is),
   which allows connection of two or more ttl units.

   I would like to have one on camera and the other bounced, for
   contrast control flash, or maybe one on bracket one on camera,
   with about 1:3 ratio. Is it possible to do it with TTL metering via
   the multiflash adapter?

   Metz sells ND filters and they say use of the filters on one of the
   flashes works that way - for ratio of ttl flashes.

   Anybody tried it?

   Thanks

Good light,
 Frantisek Vlcek
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RE: Film Developing

2001-11-17 Thread William D. Sawyer

Wow, great site, Shel!!  Exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks, and I saw a copy of the cookbook yesterday, I may buy it.

Bill Sawyer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff
Sent: November 17, 2001 2:47 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Film Developing


 
Hi Bill ...

Sorry I missed your earlier post.  Go here http://www.digitaltruth.com/
for what you're seeking.  Also, you might want to pick up a copy of The
Film Developing Cookbook by Anchell  Troop.

William D. Sawyer wrote:
 
 I wrote a few days ago asking for pointers 
 for developing Agfa APX 100 in Microdol-X. 
 [...] 
 Is there any help here?

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/pow/enter_pow.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/cameras/pentax_repair_shops.html
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RE: Film Developing

2001-11-17 Thread William D. Sawyer

Thanks, Ed.  Shel recommended it, too, and it is exactly what I was looking for.

Bill Sawyer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


-Original Message-
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 
In a message dated 11/17/2001 2:23:46 PM US Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 
  I wrote a few days ago asking for pointers for developing Agfa APX 100 in 
 Microdol-X. Since no one responded, I presume no one had any experience.  
 That being the case, can anyone suggest either a website or a darkroom book 
 that might give the preferred dilution/development times for this 
combination.
   I've been to Agfa and Kodak websites w/o success, and have emailed their 
 respective technical people for their input. 
  
  Is there any help here?
  
  

Try this.
 A HREF=http://www.digitaltruth.com/;Digitaltruth: Photo Source/A 

Ed M.
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Re: Photography in Mali, once again

2001-11-17 Thread Gianfranco Irlanda

Bruce Dayton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Joseph,
 
 I have shot the Optima and found it to be a bit contrasty.  To
try to
 get the people and landscape, I would try Fuji Reala 100
and/or Kodak
 Portra 160NC.  Both are much lower contrast.

Hi Joseph,

I agree with Bruce, Reala and Portra 160NC are my choice when I
have to work in situations like the one you described. I prefer
Reala for landscapes and Portra for people (I often use fill
flash, though).

Gianfranco
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Re: Photographing documents - Slide film, flash? and lens type

2001-11-17 Thread Michael Perham

Natural light is easier, typically more even and defused, just don't do 
it in direct sunlight.  If the drawing is under glass or the surface has 
any degree of reflectance, make sure you use a polarizer to eliminate 
them. This is easier to see under natural light but not with flash 
because of the short duration.

Choice of film depends on the subject matter.  If you have any whites 
then use a film that does not have enhanced colour, for instance Fuji 
Provia 100F, which is the finest grained film available and will keep 
your whites clean.  If you wish to have enhanced colours and there are 
no whites or greys, then Velvia would be a good choice. If using Velvia 
and you have large expanses of single colour, there may be a tendency to 
block up if you expose at the rated ASA 50, try exposing at ASA 40.   If 
you don't have access to a source for these pro grade films, Kodak 
Extachrome Extra Colour may be a good compromise.  It has somewhat 
enhanced colour, but keeps the whites and greys cleaner and cost a whole 
lot less.

Choice of lens is simple if you have a 50 or 100 mm macro, these lenses 
are designed to provide a flat field of focus.  If you don't have a 
macro then use whatever lens you have that will allow you to fill your 
frame with the drawing and use a small aperture, no wider than f8.  The 
use of a tripod is a given as is mirror pre-lock if your camera allows. 
 If no pre-lock, then avoid shutter speeds in the 1/8 to 1/30 range.

Cheers,  and good luck.

Mike.

Maris V. Lidaka, Sr. wrote:

Turning into a busy weekend.  I finished last night's ballet performance and now have 
a new project I need help on.

I have never used slide film, and have photographed only people and places.  My 
daughter is submitting an application to a College of Design and they require slides 
of her design drawings.

First question - the College FAQs suggest shooting outdoors in daylight, which is 
possible.  Should I do this or use flash?

Second question - what slide film for daylight, or what slide film for flash?

Third question - what focal length lens?  Short and up-close like 28-35mm, or perhaps 
a portrait-lens length of 100-135mm?

Maris
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.
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Re: Auro Show Snaps

2001-11-17 Thread Len Paris

I should really apologize to one and all.  I was poking fun at
Shel and none of you have ever actually seen me.  I am 6-feet 3
3/4-inches tall, and for most of my life weighed in excess of
300 pounds.  In fact, two years ago I peaked out at 375 pounds.
So, remembering this, I got a real chuckle at Shel saying that
using flash was too intrusive.  Hell, all I had to do to be
intrusive was to be where other people were.

Len
---

- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 2:51 PM
Subject: Re: Auro Show Snaps


 Len, arguing about Shel's shooting style, suggests he must be
threatening and
 is way too tall to be stealthy...

 Len,

 Shel visited Chicago this summer and I got a chance to shoot
some with him.
 I learned alot about shooting people by just watching his body
language and
 how he approached people.  It was inspiring for me, as I have
worked most on
 objects and not people.  Shel has a unique ability to engage
people who are
 near him with a warm smile and a ready greeting.  It's kind of
a disarming
 charm...and then he asks them if he can photograph them!

 We encountered two Chicago Police officers that morning.  The
first was a
 veteran traffic officer, female, probably 5' 6 tall, Black
and grumpy.  Shel
 disarmed her (not literally) and got some pictures of her.
I'm sure she
 didn't know why Shel wanted the shots.

 The other officer was also a woman, mounted on horseback.
Shel stopped to
 take pictures of her on horseback and stopped to talk.  When
she noticed both
 of us, she volunteered to pose with Shel and the horse for me!
I tell you,
 Shel has magic powers!

 We also stopped for a couple of beers and Shel got off some
shots with the M3
 of an odd couple around the elbow of the bar before I
recognized he was doing
 anything.  He can be stealthy.

 Regards,  Bob S.
 -
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RE: Film Developing

2001-11-17 Thread William D. Sawyer

Thanks, Gianfranco - it's precisely what I was looking for.  I'll be developing film 
tonight...

Bill Sawyer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


-Original Message-
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Gianfranco Irlanda
 
Hi Bill,

Try:

http://www.digitaltruth.com/

Gianfranco


- Original Message - 
From: William D. Sawyer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Pentax Discuss [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 8:21 PM
Subject: Film Developing


 I wrote a few days ago asking for pointers for developing Agfa
APX 100 in Microdol-X. Since no one responded, I presume no one
had any experience.  That being the case, can anyone suggest
either a website or a darkroom book that might give the
preferred dilution/development times for this combination.  I've
been to Agfa and Kodak websites w/o success, and have emailed
their respective technical people for their input. 
 
 Is there any help here?
 
 Bill Sawyer
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 -
Find the one for you at Yahoo! Personals
http://personals.yahoo.com
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Re[3]: Photography in Mali, once again

2001-11-17 Thread Bob Walkden

Hi,

it's interesting to hear that. I've only used Supra 100 in this
country (UK), and not much of it at that. It's been ok, but I haven't
shot in highly contrasty conditions here. When I use Supra I normally
use the 400. The Portra sounds like a good idea, so I'll try some of
that before my next trip.

I don't like flash because I've brought myself up in the tradition of
photographers who don't use flash. There are several other reasons why
I don't like it. For the reasons that Shel often gives, namely that it
is too obtrusive; also, I find it very unpredictable and difficult to
use, so I'm not at all confident with it; I think that it's very
noticeable when it's been used (of course if it's good I wouldn't know
it had been used) and it looks artificial.

In the situations that I like to photograph it would be (imo) highly
impolite to blast away with a flashgun going off - one of the reasons
why I'm now mostly using Leicas, because they are so quiet and discreet.

---

 Bob  

mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Saturday, November 17, 2001, 8:39:09 PM, you wrote:

 Bob,

 I found your post interesting.  I have shot quite a bit of Supra 100
 and find it to be somewhat contrasty.  A good friend of mine just came
 back from Africa having shot mostly Supra 100.  I can say that the
 film didn't hold up all that well to the contrast.

 I would certainly give Konica Impressa 50, Fuji Reala 100 and possibly
 one of the portrait films a try.  In my test and usage, these films
 handle high contrast much better.  They don't work as well when the
 conrast drops too much.

 I was also a bit surprised by your comment about hating fill flash.  I
 am wondering why?  When done properly, the only telltale sign is a
 catchlight in the eyes (usually a good thing).  I have done many shots with fill 
flash and
 without (back to back) and when the shadows are strong, fill flash
 really comes to the rescue.  Care to elaborate on your feelings?


 Bruce
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Re: Photographing documents - Slide film, flash? and lens type

2001-11-17 Thread Rfsindg

Maris,

I've been successful using Kodachrome 64 or Ecktachrome 400 in daylight or 
for flash.  

The size of the material you are copying will determine how you do things. 
I've done a 100mm macro on a tripod in front of the picture window in my 
living room.  Sun shines from right to left across the object and I've used 
some white paper as a reflector to balance the sunlight from side to side.  
I've shot downward at a 45 degree angle with the 100mm lens.  It keeps the 
tripod from casting shadows.

You can try using two flashes or bounce flash, but it is trickier unless you 
have TTL flash (Super Program, LX, SF-1, PZ-1 and newer).  I've done it with 
2 AF280's.

My suggestions:  Any daylight slide film in daylight or with flash if you 
must.
A moderately long lens, say 100mm.  A 50mm if the drawings are 8 by 10.
Don't use a 28mm unless the artworks are really BIG.  

Regards,  Bob S.

[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 My daughter is submitting an application to a College of Design and they 
require slides of her design drawings.
 
 First question - the College FAQs suggest shooting outdoors in daylight, 
which is possible.  Should I do this or use flash?
 
 Second question - what slide film for daylight, or what slide film for flash?
 
 Third question - what focal length lens?  Short and up-close like 28-35mm, 
or perhaps a portrait-lens length of 100-135mm?  
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Re: Photographing documents - Slide film, flash? and lens type

2001-11-17 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Hi Maris ...

I'd pretty much agree with just much of what has been said, but,
depending on the size of the documents, I'd suggest using a copy stand
which will hold the work in perfect alignment with the film plane.  Of
course, not many people have access to a copy stand, and depending on
how critical the work has to be it may not be necessary.

Instead of putting the work on a wall and shooting from a tripod, try
placing the work on the floor or table, and shooting straight down with
the camera on the tripod.  This can provide a more critical alignment if
you have a head with built-in bubble levels, or you can get an
inexpensive level at the local hardware store.  Not all tripods have a
head that allows for shooting in that position, but if you've got one,
it may be the way to go.

A macro lens is ideal, of course, but baring that the SMC Pentax
K105/2.8 and the 135/2.5 are excellent for this purpose, especially with
a standard extension tube or the helicoid extension tube.  The K85/1.8
is also an excellent lens, and perhaps a little better in one way, as
it, and some of the other 85mm lenses, require that the focusing collar
be turned a great deal to move from infinity to closest focusing.  This
allows making very fine focusing adjustments a little easier than with
lenses that require only 90- or 120-degrees to go from close focus to
infinity.

While you want to stop down a bit, you also want to keep the shutter
speed either above 1/30 second or below 1/4 second.  Many SLR cameras
have a vibration that's hard to eliminate at speeds between 1/30th and
1/8th second.  Here's the perfect place to use a camera with MLU or,
perhaps, mirror pre-fire.  Be sure to either use a cable release or the
camera's self timer.  And also be sure the tripod is very stable and
perhaps even weighted down to reduce vibration and movement.

HTH ... I hope I didn't forget anything.

 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
  My daughter is submitting an application to a College of Design and they
 require slides of her design drawings.
 
  First question - the College FAQs suggest shooting outdoors in daylight,
 which is possible.  Should I do this or use flash?
 
  Second question - what slide film for daylight, or what slide film for flash?
 
  Third question - what focal length lens?  Short and up-close like 28-35mm,
 or perhaps a portrait-lens length of 100-135mm?  

-- 
Shel Belinkoff
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/pow/enter_pow.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/cameras/pentax_repair_shops.html
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Re: First 6-mp full-frame digital SLR is out

2001-11-17 Thread Mark Roberts

Jan van Wijk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

On Fri, 16 Nov 2001 19:12:44 -0500, Mark Roberts wrote:

I certainly wouldn't have spent a
thousand dollars on a new body (MZ-S) to go with my existing lenses if I thought
I'd have to replace them soon to go with a different brand digital SLR. I just
bought Ed Mathews 43/1.9 Limited but that's going to be my last Pentax lens or
body purchase until I'm confident that there'll be a compatible digital body in
the near future. I can't afford to go down a dead end path. (I don't think I am,
by the way; I'm just being cautious.)

I feel exactly the same, I was planning on buying the 3-lens limited set (31, 43 and 
77)
for my MZ-3 / PZ1 / LX,  and waiting for the MZ-D to use them on later.
I will certainly wait for a formal announcement of a new Pentax Digital SLR now!

I'm sure we're not the only ones who have deferred purchases until the situation
is clarified.

I hope it will be a 4 to 5Mp, with a focal-multiplier of 1.3 or 1.4.
If that is offered for US $3000 to $3500 with other specs comparable to the MZ-D,
I will get one for sure ...

I won't buy one until full-frame version is available, but the release of any
digital SLR - even with a smaller-than-full-frame CCD - would give me enough
confidence to resume buying Pentax gear in general (a 15mm would be first on my
list: I would have killed for one today!)

What's interesting is that within two or three years we'll see people just
getting into photography (just getting serious about it, anyway) *starting out*
with a digital SLR, having moved up from an all-in-one digicam. Then later, when
they consider *film* (it'll happen eventually!), they'll look for a film camera
that's compatible with the lenses they already have for their digital. Just the
opposite of the situation we have now.

-- 
Mark Roberts
www.robertstech.com
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Re: First 6-mp full-frame digital SLR is out

2001-11-17 Thread Carlos Royo

Mark Roberts wrote:

 
 
 I'm sure we're not the only ones who have deferred purchases until the situation
 is clarified.
 
 I hope it will be a 4 to 5Mp, with a focal-multiplier of 1.3 or 1.4.
 If that is offered for US $3000 to $3500 with other specs comparable to the MZ-D,
 I will get one for sure ...
 

I haven't deferred any purchases because of that. In fact, I bought the
MZ-S after Pentax announce they had axed the MZ-D project. and if I can
afford a Limited 31 mm. in the near future, I'll buy it.
My digital needs are covered by a Minolta film scanner a modest
flatbed scanner, an Artec AS6E.
I would only consider a digital SLR if it were full frame, and when it
is in my price bracket. I know that both things won't happen in the near
future, but I am not in a hurry. I would add to the conditions i've said
before, a decent image quality and of course, a K-mount that accepts all
my lenses. 6 Mpixels is not enough in my opinion.
I understand that PJs and some other people may need the kind of digital
SLR's we see in the market now, and then some people also feel the urge
to keep pace with the latest technology only for the sake of it, but in
my case I still feel that my film cameras are much better than those
expensive toys.


--
Carlos Royo
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Zaragoza (Aragon) - Spain
--
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RE: TTL multiflash with METZ

2001-11-17 Thread Frits J. Wüthrich

Frantisek,

I use that almost every time I use my Metz flash, but you don't need another
flash. I have the 40MZ-2, which has the big flash that you can bounce on the
ceiling or wall, and there is also a small flash built in that you can
switch on/off as desired. The little flash is direct. The flash comes with
two ND filters you can put in front of the small flash, so you have three
output levels available for the small flash. BTW, my SCA unit is the
SCA3702. With another flash and a SCA3800 I could use a wireless TTL slave
as well. I don't have that though.

Frits Wüthrich


Frantisek Vlcek wrote:

 Hi,
I use the German SCA 300 system, with Metz flashes. I have been
thinking about the multiflash adapter SCA 605A (or which # it is),
which allows connection of two or more ttl units.

I would like to have one on camera and the other bounced, for
contrast control flash, or maybe one on bracket one on camera,
with about 1:3 ratio. Is it possible to do it with TTL metering via
the multiflash adapter?

Metz sells ND filters and they say use of the filters on one of the
flashes works that way - for ratio of ttl flashes.

Anybody tried it?

Thanks

 Good light,
  Frantisek Vlcek
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Len's Opinion Site - Beta version of update available

2001-11-17 Thread Mike Johnston

Stan H. wrote:

 If you would like to view, and give me comments on, the new material, please
 go to  home.kc.rr.com/smhalpin/index.shtml

Stan, 
It seems I can't get there from here, as the old Vermont joke goes. I get
a Not Found warning.

Can you give me any hints as to how I might find it?

--Mike

P.S. Lens Opinion Site has no apostrophe in it, unless it belongs to a guy
named Len.
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Re: OT: I just got engaged

2001-11-17 Thread Mark Roberts

Amita Guha [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Nate asked me to marry him tonight

Wow! This guy was in even more of a hurry than Mr. Jeepgirl!

and I accepted. :)

So the honeymoon begins tomorrow?
;-)

Congrats

-- 
Mark Roberts
www.robertstech.com
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Re: Re[2]: Photography in Mali, once again

2001-11-17 Thread Maris V. Lidaka, Sr.

I used Konica Impressa 50 in San Francisco - I was impressed and I recommend it.

Maris

- Original Message - 
From: Bruce Dayton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Bob Walkden [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 2:39 PM
Subject: Re[2]: Photography in Mali, once again


| Bob,
| 
| I found your post interesting.  I have shot quite a bit of Supra 100
| and find it to be somewhat contrasty.  A good friend of mine just came
| back from Africa having shot mostly Supra 100.  I can say that the
| film didn't hold up all that well to the contrast.
| 
| I would certainly give Konica Impressa 50, Fuji Reala 100 and possibly
| one of the portrait films a try.  In my test and usage, these films
| handle high contrast much better.  They don't work as well when the
| conrast drops too much.
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Re: Film Developing

2001-11-17 Thread Mike Johnston

Bill S. wrote:

 I wrote a few days ago asking for pointers for developing Agfa APX 100 in
 Microdol-X. Since no one responded, I presume no one had any experience.  That
 being the case, can anyone suggest either a website or a darkroom book that
 might give the preferred dilution/development times for this combination.
 I've been to Agfa and Kodak websites w/o success, and have emailed their
 respective technical people for their input.
 
 Is there any help here?

How come you're set on this particular combination, if you haven't tried it
and (apparently) haven't had it recommended to you by someone who uses it?

I'm not trying to be belligerent (honest), just curious.

--Mike
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Re: What can you get away with?

2001-11-17 Thread Mike Johnston

Shel Caesar wrote:

 Et Tu, Mike?

No, just speaking for myself

--Mike

P.S. Along these lines, folks should take a look at some of Robert Frank's
pictures, like the great picture in _The Americans_ of the black couple
(titled San Francisco) lying on the ground at the very bottom of the
frame, with the man glaring at Frank. There's another one in _Lines of My
Hand_ (I'm going on memory here, so please don't kill me if I'm wrong) of a
woman in a convertible ahead of him obviously yelling angrily at him. In at
least a few cases he uses peoples' hostility to his advantage.
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Re: The suspense is over...

2001-11-17 Thread Isaac Crawford

I'm using an 870, the 1270's little brother. I'm trying to figure out
how people are getting bad results. How did it suck? I have a feeling that
people are following the conventional wisdom and outputting only 300dpi or
so. Ilford states that their papers needs start at 720 dpi. I haven't put
anything less than a 15 meg file to the printer, and those are for 8x10s! I
haven't worked out the dpi yet, but I'm sure that I'm well above the 300 and
even the 720 that has been recommended...

Isaac
- Original Message -
From: Bill Owens [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: The suspense is over...


 What printer are you using?  I tried Ilford once on my Epson 1270 and it
did
 suck.

 Bill, KG4LOV
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 - Original Message -
 From: Isaac Crawford [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 10:00 PM
 Subject: The suspense is over...


  Ilford inkjet papers are amazing! I just printed up some scans on
both
  the perl and smooth gloss papers and I am amazed. The guys I work with
  warned me that the Ilford papers suck, that you can't get detail, the
ink
  pools, etc... This just proves what I've thought all along, if they were
  great printers and photoshop users, they'd work somewhere else...:-)
I've
  been very impressed so far, no more color darkroom work for me!
 
  Isaac
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Re: Film Developing

2001-11-17 Thread Isaac Crawford

- Original Message -
From: Mike Johnston [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 11:53 PM
Subject: Re: Film Developing


 Bill S. wrote:

  I wrote a few days ago asking for pointers for developing Agfa APX 100
in
  Microdol-X. Since no one responded, I presume no one had any experience.
That
  being the case, can anyone suggest either a website or a darkroom book
that
  might give the preferred dilution/development times for this
combination.
  I've been to Agfa and Kodak websites w/o success, and have emailed their
  respective technical people for their input.
 
  Is there any help here?

 How come you're set on this particular combination, if you haven't tried
it
 and (apparently) haven't had it recommended to you by someone who uses it?

I'm also curious. I haven't tried that combo, but I'd imagine it to be
rather blah looking. Of course I have that reaction to just about anything
souped in microdal x.



Isaac


 I'm not trying to be belligerent (honest), just curious.

 --Mike
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Re: What can you get away with?

2001-11-17 Thread Mike Johnston

Ed wrote:

 But you have to admit that there is
 something in common in that type of personality that shares a thread
 with some of the great photojournalists, and there are definitely times
 I wish I had a little more of it than I do.

Me too. And it surely is a quality of at least some great photojournalists.

I've always considered that people choose a basic subject matter based not
only on the kind of pictures they like, but on the kind of pictures they're
comfortable taking. I think a lot of landscape photographers are comfortable
with a slow and deliberate methodology, but I also think that some of them
just aren't comfortable confronting people and taking pictures of them. I've
had good luck over the years with portraits from fairly lengthy sittings,
but this suits my personality--I connect most easily with people one-on-one
and in some depth, whereas I often have no idea what to say at cocktail
parties. I noticed long ago that I get better photographs when I have
permission to be shooting someone or somewhere. That's just me.

--Mike
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Re: The suspense is over...

2001-11-17 Thread Isaac Crawford

- Original Message -
From: J. C. O'Connell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 10:07 PM
Subject: RE: The suspense is over...


 how much do they cost?


Hmmm... I get the company rate since I work there, so I don't really know
off the top of my head. Check out http://www.penncamera.com/shop.cfm for our
latest prices...

Isaac
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Isaac Crawford
  Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 10:00 PM
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: The suspense is over...
 
 
  Ilford inkjet papers are amazing! I just printed up some scans on
both
  the perl and smooth gloss papers and I am amazed. The guys I work with
  warned me that the Ilford papers suck, that you can't get detail, the
ink
  pools, etc... This just proves what I've thought all along, if they were
  great printers and photoshop users, they'd work somewhere else...:-)
I've
  been very impressed so far, no more color darkroom work for me!
 
  Isaac
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Re: (no subject)

2001-11-17 Thread William Robb

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: (no subject)


   Hi Guys..I've been out of touch with the PDML for a couple
  of months..can you update me about the Pentax SLR digital
  body (MZ-D ?) release date 
  Thanx,


It will be released at the Ulan Bator show in 2007.
William Robb
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Want Fujica ST605 or ST705 camera body

2001-11-17 Thread pentaxfans

Hi

If you have a Fujica ST605 or ST705 camera body for sale, please give me an email off 
list. Thanks!

Frankie
-
 Åwªï¨Ï¥ÎHongKong.com¶l¥ó¨t²Î
 Thank you for using hongkong.com Email system
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Re: Leonid meteor shower could be truly spectacular

2001-11-17 Thread Gary J Sibio

At 04:36 PM 11/16/01 +1100, you wrote:
Hi,

 From my calculations it should start at 4:00am in Melbourne. As its 1:00 am
for HK and 2:00am for Tokyo and Melbourne is 3 hours infront of HK and 2
hours in front of Tokyo.

What times sunrise in Sydney and Melbourne at the moment?


How do you calculate this?



Gary J. Sibio
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Speaking of intrusive

2001-11-17 Thread SudaMafud

Who would or could be ~more~ intrusive or obvious in any venue than a 
Motor/Winder equipped camera and big f/2.8 70-200 PENTAX zoom lens with 
camera bag (with monopod sticking out), Fila (knitted prayer cap) wearing, 
two shades lighter than peanut-butter colored Muslim? (Me.)

As I finish loading my EKTAPRESS site, (If September 11 hadn't happened, you 
could view the EKTAPRESS page now) there is a section of my PJ candids. 
You'll be able to judge for yourself whether it's the photographer or what. 
But then, sticking cameras in peoples faces was what I did for 37 years and 
since I got used to it, I never gave a thought to whether I had permission. 
I didn't sneak then and don't now.
*Didn't point cameras at Police overseas though, Police being what they are; 
and can be.

Happily, I've never tried to be an artist with a camera or of being on some 
existential mission. I saw, I shot. 
**Then again, it may just have been all that PJ hubris.

But judge for yourself.

Mafud
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: Leonid meteor shower could be truly spectacular

2001-11-17 Thread Paul Jones

I worked out the equivelant time in Melbourne to the one shown in Tokyo and
HK. I just heard on the time on TV for Melbourne and it does start at 4am.

Regards,
Paul Jones
- Original Message -
From: Gary J Sibio [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2001 5:08 PM
Subject: Re: Leonid meteor shower could be truly spectacular


 At 04:36 PM 11/16/01 +1100, you wrote:
 Hi,
 
  From my calculations it should start at 4:00am in Melbourne. As its 1:00
am
 for HK and 2:00am for Tokyo and Melbourne is 3 hours infront of HK and 2
 hours in front of Tokyo.
 
 What times sunrise in Sydney and Melbourne at the moment?


 How do you calculate this?



 Gary J. Sibio
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Re: Leonid meteor shower could be truly spectacular

2001-11-17 Thread Kevin Waterson

Paul Jones wrote:

 I worked out the equivelant time in Melbourne to the one shown in Tokyo and
 HK. I just heard on the time on TV for Melbourne and it does start at 4am.

Well, I might just sleep through it all...
Weather has turned nasty here in Byron Bay and thunder storms are forcast :(

Good shooting to those with a view
Kevin
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