Vs: Cosmicar
It is true - Cosmicar is mainly for high end application optics like television and - maybe - movie lenses. The only other brand besides this and Pentax is of course Takumar. Buy it and let us know what you find out! All the best! Raimo Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen -Alkuperäinen viesti- Lähettäjä: wendy beard [EMAIL PROTECTED] Vastaanottaja: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Päivä: 30. joulukuuta 2001 1:23 Aihe: Cosmicar Just idly surfing e-bay, when I came across a listing for a 80-200 zoom of the make Cosmicar The seller say that this is a Pentax made lens. Is this true? If so are there other brand names that Pentax market(ed) under? Wendy --- Wendy Beard Ottawa, Canada mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users
Hi Shel, The answer is yes. The goal is to adjust the condenser such that the point on the light is the centre of the lens. I use the 50, 80 and 105 lenses with mine and they correspond to the 3 format settings. Bob - Original Message - From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 6:51 PM Subject: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users I just picked up a fine Beseler 23CII condenser enlarger to complement the dichro head model that I have. There's an adjustment on it that allows the condenser to be moved up and down relative to the negative, and it's marked for different formats - 8/16/35mms and 110; 2¼x2¼, etc. Essentially it's self explanatory, but I do have a question: if a longer lens, such as an 80mm is used instead of a normal 50mm lens for 35mm work, should the condenser be moved to the 2¼x2¼ position? There's a drawer above the condenser that looks like it's for VC filters, or for heat absorbing glass. Is that correct, or is there another purpose for that drawer? Man, it's a neat machine! -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
[no subject]
Buy it from the guy who had it brought in for you. He has earned it. Doug That is exactly what I decided to do. I knew in my heart it was the right thing to do...plus now I'll have it by Monday rather than later! Thank you all for your advice, and have a happy new year. Jim -- ___ Talk More, Pay Less with Net2Phone Direct(R), up to 1500 minutes free! http://www.net2phone.com/cgi-bin/link.cgi?143 - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: OT Work in progress
To my untrained eye (I'm no graphic designer), I much preferred the second one (smaller file). It seemed to show much more depth. Maybe that was because it was a closer shot. The pen looked much more real to me in that one. Which camera were you using, incidentally? - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Re: OT Work in progress
Even though i have a state of the art(D1) digital camera, i still have a lot to learn about lighting with it and PS digital editing.Until i do however the 5 Pentax film bodies are staying right were they are in my Lowepro. My recent motto:When in doubt,film it. Dave Begin Original Message From: Tom Rittenhouse [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sun, 30 Dec 2001 00:44:27 -0500 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: OT Work in progress Not bad at all. You're observations are pretty much correct. You can consider digital as a direct positive type of media. There is a reason the people who specialize in this sort of thing (jewelry) use light tents and matte spray. Ciao, graywolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Rob Studdert [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2001 10:29 PM Subject: OT Work in progress Hi Team, I just though I might share some of my work in progress. I have been experimenting with shooting macro and close-ups of specular objects (gold jewellery etc.) and I have come to appreciate what an art this is. I am now experimenting with multiple reflectors and other lighting elements and I can only say I have a lot to learn. I am shooting this project digitally (still waiting Pentax) and have found the limits of the equipment. From my recent experience I would suggest that shooting digital has a similar feel to slide film in that once the highlights are blown out its all over. As it is a digital medium there is no headroom (unlike the negative films that I am used to). So when I set the exposure to provide detail in the reflections I lose my shadow detail, it seems that I have to soften up my lights to reduce the overall contrast. Comments welcome. Some examples: http://www.home.aone.net.au/audiobias/PC291972m.JPG (141kB) http://www.home.aone.net.au/audiobias/PC291979e.JPG (76kB including grubby fingerprints) Pentax content: the background in the these images is the burgundy coloured velvet Pentax LX bag :-) Cheers,Rob Studdert HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA Tel +61-2-9554-4110 UTC(GMT) +10 Hours [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . End Original Message Pentax User Stouffville Ontario Canada Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: OT: Wimberley Head on Ebay
On Sun, 30 Dec 2001 00:02:28 -0800, you wrote: Jim Apilado wrote: I've got the 500mm SMC Takumar. Never heard of this Wimberley Gimble head until I saw this post. I'll have to look into it. Nothing beats it, I am very satisfied with mine. The Wimberly URL is www.tripodhead.com. If you get the head through ebay, then you will still need to get a quick release clamp quick release plate from Wimberly. On this Wimberley head, a quick release clamp and plate are convenient, but not a must. You can bolt the tripod foot directly to the Wimberley head. The head bolted directly to the lens tripod foot makes a large package. If you use the knobs such as those in the Ebay ad, you can even loosen the assembly fairly easily to move it back and forth (to get the best balance when adding teleconvertors or other weight ot the camera/lens assembly.) Using a clamp and plate is the best solution in the long term. But bolting directly to the tripod foot is okay, especially if the Wimberley is used with only one lens, and if you don't mind such a large, bulky assembly. I had my 600/4 bolted directly to my Wimberly for a month or two when I first got it, until I found a second-hand QR clamp and plate. -- John Mustarde www.photolin.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Some new work
Very nice William.I try to do this with my family, but when they see the big ol screwmount stuff come out,they bolt. I really like your setting of the top 3 pictures,just can't place it.I know for sure it's not Taylor Field LOL. Was this available light or a light setup?? Dave(glad there is only 1 'Rider team in the CFL.)Brooks Pentax User Stouffville Ontario Canada Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: OT Canadian Football - was: Some new work
David Brooks recently signed a post as: Dave(glad there is only 1 'Rider team in the CFL.)Brooks Dave, Dave, Dave, It was so much fun having two teams in the CFL with the same name! It confounded foreigners (read: Americans) so - especially when they both made it to the Grey Cup. The Roughriders vs. The Roughriders just had a certain ring to it, don't you think? Those were the good old days - back when Winnipeg was in the West, where it belonged (they can have 'em!). Now that I've insulted Winnipegers, Western Canadians and Americans, please be aware that this is written with a vbg on my face. I'm now going out to take piccies... regards, frank -- The optimist thinks this is the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears it is true. -J. Robert Oppenheimer - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
S3 Test roll = success
I recently aquired an S3 and 3 primes from a list member and finally the weather is cooperating and had a chance to run a test roll(of 12) through it.Other than the subject matter being crappy,all looks well.I shot with and without the clip on meter,sunny 16 rule,Kodak Pocket photo guide wheels, and available indoor light and the camera/lenses work great. Now i run the full gauntlet,meterless M42 mounts to a D1. Go fiqure eh. Dave Pentax User Stouffville Ontario Canada Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users
The drawer is for filters - either VC or color. And you could put head absorbing glass but I think that enlarger already has it. Blow out the condenser head and get it nice and clean. When you use the Dichro head I think you have the option of doing it with or without the condensers - can't remember if that feature is a Dichro II feature or not. Never forget to loosen the holding knob when you crank the arm to raise the head... ppro -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bob Rapp Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 5:51 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users Hi Shel, The answer is yes. The goal is to adjust the condenser such that the point on the light is the centre of the lens. I use the 50, 80 and 105 lenses with mine and they correspond to the 3 format settings. Bob - Original Message - From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 6:51 PM Subject: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users I just picked up a fine Beseler 23CII condenser enlarger to complement the dichro head model that I have. There's an adjustment on it that allows the condenser to be moved up and down relative to the negative, and it's marked for different formats - 8/16/35mms and 110; 2¼x2¼, etc. Essentially it's self explanatory, but I do have a question: if a longer lens, such as an 80mm is used instead of a normal 50mm lens for 35mm work, should the condenser be moved to the 2¼x2¼ position? There's a drawer above the condenser that looks like it's for VC filters, or for heat absorbing glass. Is that correct, or is there another purpose for that drawer? Man, it's a neat machine! -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: S3 Test roll = success
In a message dated 12/30/2001 8:34:01 AM US Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Now i run the full gauntlet,meterless M42 mounts to a D1. Go fiqure eh. Dave Addiction grin? Best regards to fellow addicts, Ed M. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Vs: Two SMC 105/2.8 PKs in Europe
Perhaps you have one zero too much in the Finnish price? Well, after tomorrow it is history - we all have Euros. I can recommend the store, though - the largest selection of used stuff in Finland and the guy is an expert. All the best! Raimo Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen -Alkuperäinen viesti- Lähettäjä: Paul F. Stregevsky [EMAIL PROTECTED] Vastaanottaja: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Päivä: 30. joulukuuta 2001 16:36 Aihe: Two SMC 105/2.8 PKs in Europe snip 12000 Finish M. ($179) at Mr. Kamera (http://www.digipartner.com). This is where I bought mine, for $200, exactly one year ago. snip Paul Franklin Stregevsky 13 Selby Court Poolesville, Maryland 20837-2410 [EMAIL PROTECTED] H (301) 349-5243 - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
MZ-S and flash capabilities...
Hey all, I've got some questions about the MZ-S and it's flash system. At my position at the paper, my primary duty is to shoot sports. If there is an editorial assignment and a basketball game at the same time, the basketball game has my priority (generally speaking). So I was pretty dissapointed that the top normal flash sync of the MZ-S is only 180th of a sec, just a wee shy of what I'd like to shoot at. Alot of ppl think that the 2.5 frames per second motor drive would be a greater inconvenience but I don't use a machine gun method for sports anyway. Anyway, flash is very important because few of the stadiums that I shoot at have enough light to make good exposures without it. So my question is mainly what kind of power loss are we looking at when using the new 360fgz when in high speed sync mode? Obviously I wouldn't expect to get good exposures with the camera set to 1/6000, but, for example, what's the flash's max distance with the camera set to 250th with 800iso film? What about with the shutter set to 1/500th? Thanks in advance for any help. -- Nick - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Copying old photos with limited equipment.
WHY NOT SCAN THEM AND PRINT DIGITAL? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Malcolm Smith Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 11:59 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Copying old photos with limited equipment. Hi everyone, My mother was lent a box of photos at Xmas of family taken many years ago (all B W). She only has it for a few more days, and I'd love to copy them. Of course, now would be a great time to own a camera stand, but I don't, so any advice on taking copies with either the LX or MX with a 50mm F1.2. I don't own that much Pentax equipment blush. Malcolm - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: W.D. Cam Engineering
I just received this from them yesterday: Original Message Subject: RE: pentax pz1-p battery grip Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2001 13:23:22 -0800 From: Ruth and David Cam [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Alexandre Suaide [EMAIL PROTECTED] Alex, we are still working on the grip, unfortuantly we have recently been inundated with paying work, we are finishing up the last of the tooling, we had to make more than we anticipated, and our work load from other sources imcreased enormously, but it will be soon (famous last words!) regards Dave Cam Gary L. Murphy wrote: A while back W.D. Cam Engineering was going to come out with a AA battery grip with a vertical shutter release for the PZ-1p. Does anyone know if they are still planning on this? I went to their web site which looks like it has not been undated since early this year. I also sent an email asking about it but never did receive a reply. Thanks! Later, Gary - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users
Hi Shel, I use a 23CII, but I've replaced the original condenser head with an Aristo cold light source. I used it for several years with the condenser lenses though. The bellows adjustment is there in order to adjust the light source for even distribution and focusing of the point light source over the negative, depending on the size of the film you have to cover and the standard enlarging lens. If using an 80mm lens for 35mm work, I would think that leaving it in the position for 35mm film would cause the light rays to converge too much, and not in the proper place under the lens. But really, the best way to check this is to raise the enlarger up to the highest point you can, put a large white sheet of paper in the easel, and then without a negative in the carrier, just look at the distribution of light. Adjust the bellows to be in the position where the best coverage occurs. As others have said, the filter drawer is for VC filters, color filters, or as you mention - heat absorbing glass. I bought a piece of that special heat absorbing glass from Beseler. It cost an arm and a leg. Since I'm using cold light now, I don't have it installed, so let me know if you want it cheap. Also, when using the cold light head with the diffused light source, it's interesting that the bellows adjustment no longer really does anything, because the light is no focused with the condenser lenses any longer. So I moved it to the lowest position and it allows me to raise the enlarger higher for bigger enlargements under my low ceiling. Thanks, Ed http://lightandsilver.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 2:51 AM To: Pentax List Subject: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users I just picked up a fine Beseler 23CII condenser enlarger to complement the dichro head model that I have. There's an adjustment on it that allows the condenser to be moved up and down relative to the negative, and it's marked for different formats - 8/16/35mms and 110; 2¼x2¼, etc. Essentially it's self explanatory, but I do have a question: if a longer lens, such as an 80mm is used instead of a normal 50mm lens for 35mm work, should the condenser be moved to the 2¼x2¼ position? There's a drawer above the condenser that looks like it's for VC filters, or for heat absorbing glass. Is that correct, or is there another purpose for that drawer? Man, it's a neat machine! -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Microtek FilmScan 35 (Was:Prime Film 1800U)
Hi, As I'm interested in buying some inexpensive film scanner, I've jus asked you about the PrimeFilm 1800U. There is another scanner, very similar to the PrimeFilm - Microtek FilmScan 35. Can you say anything of it and how it compares to the Prime Film? TIA Artur - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Questions for Beseler 23CII Users
Thanks for the good tips, Ed. Since I've a dichro head on the other enlarger, this one will stay as a condenser unit. The heat absorbing glass didn't seem to be needed with the Omega D2V-series, but it might be helpful if I were working with 2¼, and, of course, the Beseler is designed a little differently. There is no bellows adjustment with the dichro head, which, as you know, is of the cold light variety. Your observations are correct. When I get back to the darkroom tonight, I'll play with adjusting the light source a bit and see what works best. There's a little more than five feet from baseboard to the ceiling in the darkroom here, so it shouldn't be a problem getting the head all the way up, which, if my calculations are correct, would allow for about 20x enlargements on the baseboard - well, maybe a little less when adding the height of the easel. BTW, have you used the Negatrans at all? One came along for the ride with the dichro enlarger, but it's for 120/220 film and I've not used it yet. I was thinking of getting one for 35mm but am hesitant to spend the money/time to acquire it if it may not work well. Ed Mathews wrote: Hi Shel, I use a 23CII, but I've replaced the original condenser head with an Aristo cold light source. I used it for several years with the condenser lenses though. The bellows adjustment is there in order to adjust the light source for even distribution and focusing of the point light source over the negative, depending on the size of the film you have to cover and the standard enlarging lens. If using an 80mm lens for 35mm work, I would think that leaving it in the position for 35mm film would cause the light rays to converge too much, and not in the proper place under the lens. But really, the best way to check this is to raise the enlarger up to the highest point you can, put a large white sheet of paper in the easel, and then without a negative in the carrier, just look at the distribution of light. Adjust the bellows to be in the position where the best coverage occurs. As others have said, the filter drawer is for VC filters, color filters, or as you mention - heat absorbing glass. I bought a piece of that special heat absorbing glass from Beseler. It cost an arm and a leg. Since I'm using cold light now, I don't have it installed, so let me know if you want it cheap. Also, when using the cold light head with the diffused light source, it's interesting that the bellows adjustment no longer really does anything, because the light is no focused with the condenser lenses any longer. So I moved it to the lowest position and it allows me to raise the enlarger higher for bigger enlargements under my low ceiling. -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
FS: SMC 120/2.8K, SMC 28/3.5K in Austria
http://www.leicashop.at/minivend/leicashop/ 62973 PENTAX K 120/2,8 SMC LIKE NEW WITH PERFECT LENSES,HOOD,KEEPER 5262070 A/B US$ 240 http://www.leicashop.at/minivend/leicashop/ 53436 PENTAX K 28/3,5 SMC PENTAX CAPS 6360320 B+ US$ 180 Paul Franklin Stregevsky 13 Selby Court Poolesville, Maryland 20837-2410 [EMAIL PROTECTED] H (301) 349-5243 - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
FS: 500_4.5K SMCs (two), $800 and $600, in U.S., Austria
LENS,500MM 4.5 PENTAX SMC K MT PEN U-843 $799 MINT 90-DAY TCR WARR Tempe Camera Repair http://www.tempecamera.com/mlynk/ocs.txt 62976 PENTAX K 500/4,5 SMC RARE PENTAX TELE,LIKE NEW,PERFECT LENSES,CAPS,KEEPER 5067458 A/B (Condition; optical and mechanical, I think) US$ 590 http://www.leicashop.at/minivend/leicashop/ (Austria) Paul Franklin Stregevsky 13 Selby Court Poolesville, Maryland 20837-2410 [EMAIL PROTECTED] H (301) 349-5243 - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Mir 47-K 20 mm. 2.5 user's manual?
Carlos, This question appeared in PDML during the first half of 2001. Someone wrote that yes, you must use one of the filters; the filter is part of the lens formula. I have assumed that this is true. I don't have a problem on my Super Programs, so I've never felt the need to remove it. Thanks for sharing your unfortunate experience. Carlos Royo [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Is it necessary to keep one of the filters in place to get infinity focus? I have been told by a Russian member of the list that it isn't necessary, and my cameras seem to focus at infinity equally with or without a filter, but yesterday I read on a web page that a filter is needed to focus at the infinity setting. Paul Franklin Stregevsky 13 Selby Court Poolesville, Maryland 20837-2410 [EMAIL PROTECTED] H (301) 349-5243 - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Copying old photos with limited equipment.
Frankly I would pick up a flatbed scanner - 600ppi should be enough resolution. Alternately just use your tripod and a macro lens. Maris - Original Message - From: Malcolm Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 10:59 AM Subject: Copying old photos with limited equipment. | Hi everyone, | | My mother was lent a box of photos at Xmas of family taken many years ago | (all B W). She only has it for a few more days, and I'd love to copy them. | Of course, now would be a great time to own a camera stand, but I don't, so | any advice on taking copies with either the LX or MX with a 50mm F1.2. | | I don't own that much Pentax equipment blush. | | Malcolm | - | This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, | go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to | visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . | | - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Copying old photos with limited equipment.
I don't have a scanner :-( Malcolm -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of J. C. O'Connell Sent: 30 December 2001 17:32 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Copying old photos with limited equipment. WHY NOT SCAN THEM AND PRINT DIGITAL? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Malcolm Smith Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 11:59 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Copying old photos with limited equipment. Hi everyone, My mother was lent a box of photos at Xmas of family taken many years ago (all B W). She only has it for a few more days, and I'd love to copy them. Of course, now would be a great time to own a camera stand, but I don't, so any advice on taking copies with either the LX or MX with a 50mm F1.2. I don't own that much Pentax equipment blush. Malcolm - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Copying old photos with limited equipment.
Hi Malcom ... Without a copy stand it may be difficult to get good results, but you can get results that are good enough, especially since you're working with a limited time frame and limited equipment. First, set the photo to be copied on a solid, flat surface - a hardwood floor is ideal, but a sturdy table will be almost as good. Put a tripod over the photo with the head facing straight down, use a a bubble level to be sure the camera is parallel with the photo. Without a copy stand it may be very hard to get things perfectly parallel, so you may want to use as much DOF field as you can, without getting into a shutter speed that will contribute to blur and vibration. Try to keep the shutter at 1/60th second or above, or at 1/2 second or below. Frame the photo so it fills the viewfinder as much as possible. This may be hard to do with only a tripod and a 50mm lens, but some tripods get down pretty low. Use the camera's self timer or a cable release, and MLU if you've got it. Be sure the light is even, and bright enough to allow for a good contrast range. I have a beautiful Pentax copy stand, and, if you're anywhere near me - in the San Francisco-Oakland-San Jose areas, you're welcome to borrow it. In fact, if you're close enough to borrow the stand, you'd be welcome to use some other lenses, too, including the wonderful A200/2.8 macro, as well as extension tubes, accessory finders, and whatever else you need. Good luck! Malcolm Smith wrote: My mother was lent a box of photos at Xmas of family taken many years ago (all B W). She only has it for a few more days, and I'd love to copy them. Of course, now would be a great time to own a camera stand, but I don't, so any advice on taking copies with either the LX or MX with a 50mm F1.2. I don't own that much Pentax equipment blush. -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: MZ-S and flash capabilities...
I have not yet used the high speed sync mode (HSS) and skipped over that area when reading the manual. However, my question is why is it important for the usage you have described? It would seem to me that HSS would only be used where the ambient light is your main light source and the flash is used only for fill, but in the application you suggest would not the flash be the main light source. In that application it is the flash duration (speed) not your shutter speed that will freeze the action and the limitations would be the power, or reach of your flash and not the shutter speed of the camera. Now, I don't shoot sports so there may be considerations of which I am unaware, but if I were you, I would be looking for a more powerful flash than the AF360-FGZ, not higher sync speeds. Alternatively, or perhaps in any event, you may use a relatively high speed film, say ASA 800, that would provide additional reach and likely provide adequate backround exposure, so the stadium's large area does not black out your backround where the flash does not reach. Cheers, Mike. Nick Wright wrote: Hey all, I've got some questions about the MZ-S and it's flash system. At my position at the paper, my primary duty is to shoot sports. If there is an editorial assignment and a basketball game at the same time, the basketball game has my priority (generally speaking). So I was pretty dissapointed that the top normal flash sync of the MZ-S is only 180th of a sec, just a wee shy of what I'd like to shoot at. Alot of ppl think that the 2.5 frames per second motor drive would be a greater inconvenience but I don't use a machine gun method for sports anyway. Anyway, flash is very important because few of the stadiums that I shoot at have enough light to make good exposures without it. So my question is mainly what kind of power loss are we looking at when using the new 360fgz when in high speed sync mode? Obviously I wouldn't expect to get good exposures with the camera set to 1/6000, but, for example, what's the flash's max distance with the camera set to 250th with 800iso film? What about with the shutter set to 1/500th? Thanks in advance for any help. -- Nick - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Re: S3 Test roll = success
You bet Dave Addiction grin? Best regards to fellow addicts, Ed M. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . End Original Message Pentax User Stouffville Ontario Canada Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Vs: MZ-S and flash capabilities...
I have shot Finnish major league basketball with the LX and AF 280 T flash, no winder, no motor drive - successfully - enough for a cover of a book. Do not worry! It can be done. All the best! Raimo Personal photography homepage at http://personal.inet.fi/private/raimo.korhonen -Alkuperäinen viesti- Lähettäjä: Nick Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] Vastaanottaja: PDML [EMAIL PROTECTED] Päivä: 30. joulukuuta 2001 19:20 Aihe: MZ-S and flash capabilities... Hey all, I've got some questions about the MZ-S and it's flash system. At my position at the paper, my primary duty is to shoot sports. If there is an editorial assignment and a basketball game at the same time, the basketball game has my priority (generally speaking). So I was pretty dissapointed that the top normal flash sync of the MZ-S is only 180th of a sec, just a wee shy of what I'd like to shoot at. Alot of ppl think that the 2.5 frames per second motor drive would be a greater inconvenience but I don't use a machine gun method for sports anyway. Anyway, flash is very important because few of the stadiums that I shoot at have enough light to make good exposures without it. So my question is mainly what kind of power loss are we looking at when using the new 360fgz when in high speed sync mode? Obviously I wouldn't expect to get good exposures with the camera set to 1/6000, but, for example, what's the flash's max distance with the camera set to 250th with 800iso film? What about with the shutter set to 1/500th? Thanks in advance for any help. -- Nick - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Copying old photos with limited equipment.
If you insist on rephotographing the prints, you will definitely need to set up some rig to immobilize the subject and camera and allow critical focusing. If the prints are not flat, you will also need to rig something to keep them perfectly flat and use a cable release and mirror lock up if you have it. A macro lens is the best solution as they are designed for a flat filed of view. However, if not using a macro lens, invest in a set of extension rings to allow you to focus closer and use a small f-stop to ensure sharpness across the whole frame. Whatever lighting you use, ensure no reflections, or use a polarizer to eliminate them. If shooting BW film, and some of the old prints have stains or are yellowed, you may want to use a yellow filter on your lens to block them out. Have fun. Mike. Maris V. Lidaka, Sr. wrote: Frankly I would pick up a flatbed scanner - 600ppi should be enough resolution. Alternately just use your tripod and a macro lens. Maris - Original Message - From: Malcolm Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 10:59 AM Subject: Copying old photos with limited equipment. | Hi everyone, | | My mother was lent a box of photos at Xmas of family taken many years ago | (all B W). She only has it for a few more days, and I'd love to copy them. | Of course, now would be a great time to own a camera stand, but I don't, so | any advice on taking copies with either the LX or MX with a 50mm F1.2. | | I don't own that much Pentax equipment blush. | | Malcolm | - | This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, | go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to | visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . | | - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Mir 47-K 20 mm. 2.5 user's manual?
Paul F. Stregevsky wrote: Carlos, This question appeared in PDML during the first half of 2001. Someone wrote that yes, you must use one of the filters; the filter is part of the lens formula. I have assumed that this is true. I don't have a problem on my Super Programs, so I've never felt the need to remove it. Thanks for sharing your unfortunate experience. Well, if that were the case, I still would be able to use the lens on the Z-1 or SFX, although I'm trying to sell the latter. But I recall, if I'm not wrong, that the messages you quoted were about the Zenitar 16 mm. 2.8, not the Mir 47-K. As I have shot some slides without the filter, I'll take some with the filter in place and will examine the results carefully. The Russian member of the PDML I told you about uses the lens in an ME Super, without the filter, as it causes the same problem in that body, and he says the filter isn't needed for infinity focus. He even sent me an URL for me to see some of the photos he had taken with the lens, scanned with a 4000 dpi scanner. Best wishes, -- Carlos Royo [EMAIL PROTECTED] Zaragoza (Aragon) - Spain -- - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Ebay: Black MX + Pentax 50 mm. 1.2
It's a pity that the seller only ships to the US ... US PDMLers, go for it! http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1316254850 -- Carlos Royo [EMAIL PROTECTED] Zaragoza (Aragon) - Spain -- - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
The post said Read Me, so Alice did
Just FYI, I've been without ready email access for most of December and will probably stay that way for much of January as well. I'm afraid I won't be organizing any PUG comments for January, so select ones yourself and go crazy. :) I might be able to check mail periodically, but no guarantees. Have fun while I'm gone, chris - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Copying old photos with limited equipment.
Do you have a flatbed scanner? Bill, KG4LOV [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Malcolm Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 11:59 AM Subject: Copying old photos with limited equipment. Hi everyone, My mother was lent a box of photos at Xmas of family taken many years ago (all B W). She only has it for a few more days, and I'd love to copy them. Of course, now would be a great time to own a camera stand, but I don't, so any advice on taking copies with either the LX or MX with a 50mm F1.2. I don't own that much Pentax equipment blush. Malcolm - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: MZ-S and flash capabilities...
With my MZ-S and FA28-105, with shutter speed set manually, the AF360 shows the following distances on the LCD panel: 1/180 70 ft 1/250 ~40ft 1/500 ~ 35 ft 1/1000 ~20 ft This was with the lens set at max aperture (5.6) and ISO manually set at 800. If it were me, I would go with 1/180, which should be okay if you shoot at the peak of the action. Bill, KG4LOV [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Nick Wright [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: PDML [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 12:31 PM Subject: MZ-S and flash capabilities... Hey all, I've got some questions about the MZ-S and it's flash system. At my position at the paper, my primary duty is to shoot sports. If there is an editorial assignment and a basketball game at the same time, the basketball game has my priority (generally speaking). So I was pretty dissapointed that the top normal flash sync of the MZ-S is only 180th of a sec, just a wee shy of what I'd like to shoot at. Alot of ppl think that the 2.5 frames per second motor drive would be a greater inconvenience but I don't use a machine gun method for sports anyway. Anyway, flash is very important because few of the stadiums that I shoot at have enough light to make good exposures without it. So my question is mainly what kind of power loss are we looking at when using the new 360fgz when in high speed sync mode? Obviously I wouldn't expect to get good exposures with the camera set to 1/6000, but, for example, what's the flash's max distance with the camera set to 250th with 800iso film? What about with the shutter set to 1/500th? Thanks in advance for any help. -- Nick - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
More on cleaning slides/negatives
Ok, I know we've covered this in the past but I'm going to ask again (and pay attention to the answers this time!): How the #$!%*(^*%$ do you get all the dust off your slides or negatives before you scan them? I've been trying to catch up on scanning slides with my new/used HP PhotoSmart scanner. I've been using compressed air and anti-static wipes on both the slides and the scanner itself but I'm still frustrated with all the crap that shows up on the final scan. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Christian Skofteland [EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Square Format plus.... clearly OT
While we are on the square format subject , I just picked up (possibly a mistake) an argus 75 TWL for $15.00 - more out of curiousity than anything else. IT takes 620 film...ergo.. but is 620 film still called that? I'd kinda like to try this little antique out - anyone have any experience with it or could recommend a good fine grain film for me to play with in this format? tanks, annsan aimcompute wrote: Bob I thought I cited the evidence in my statement. Whether it's out of preference or convenience, the rectangular format is demonstrably more prevalent. It's everywhere you look. I wasn't really talking about history, it was about what I see today. I think even most cuneiform tablets I've seen in pictures were rectangular. It was discussing more visual media, than art, I'm not arguing against a square format. Tom C. - Original Message - From: Bob Walkden [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: aimcompute [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2001 11:00 AM Subject: Re[2]: Square Format Hi, It seems humans have a preference for rectangular shapes in art, as Paul alluded to. Paintings, film, prints, media, books, magazines, movie screens, are almost universally rectangular. It makes one ask why? You need to look at a bit more art, or cite some evidence. Western artists may have used predominantly rectangular frames for the last 500 years but that may be for other reasons than some innate human preference for rectangles. There are about 60,000 years of art preceding that, and thousands of non-Western forms of art, that don't use rectangles. Nor is the rectangle necessarily the predominant shape in Western art now. It happens to be convenient and easy to make a rectangular wooden frame, but go to almost any church in Europe, or to any place in the Americas or Oceania or Asia where non-Western art can be seen and you'll see how little of it is made inside a rectangle, square or otherwise. --- Bob - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: OT Work in progress
On 29 Dec 2001 at 22:57, John Mustarde wrote: I've experimented with underlighting for some of my digital photos. I set the objects on a lightbox to reduce shadows from the main light source(s). A background could be added later, after the objects are photographed to satisfaction. Hi John, Thanks for the comments (same for everyone). The light-box is an interesting idea, I did see one time a commercial sill-life table constructed of what appeared to be frosted acrylic sheet with a nice gentle bend at the back. This set-up allowed lighting from beneath as you suggested. However I really wanted to try to maintain the contrast between the objects and the background and try to keep it looking natural. Maybe for this pen two shots could be married together in Photoshop - one shot for the highlights, and one for the shadows. I was thinking of shooting the tip of the pen exactly as you have it, then making a second, higher contrast or lighter shot for the barrel and cap to give them a little more punch. I did actually try this in that I placed a well exposed nib on an image with overall greater exposure except I lost the depth in my background. I really think that I need to add some really low long lights at the front left and right in order to fill in the shadows under the barrel of the pen. Aren't you glad you don't have to burn a bunch of film, and wait for processing, to see whether or not the lighting works? Digital is so good for product photography - it gives instant viewing of the lighting results. Heaven. On 30 Dec 2001 at 0:44, Tom Rittenhouse wrote: Hi Tom, Not bad at all. You're observations are pretty much correct. You can consider digital as a direct positive type of media. There is a reason the people who specialize in this sort of thing (jewelry) use light tents and matte spray. A light tent sounds interesting, matt spray sounds messy, I would like to experiment with a water atomizer though, could be interesting as long as the lights are right since the reflections in the drops could be hell. On 30 Dec 2001 at 6:20, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: To my untrained eye (I'm no graphic designer), I much preferred the second one (smaller file). It seemed to show much more depth. Maybe that was because it was a closer shot. The pen looked much more real to me in that one. Which camera were you using, incidentally? The smaller image was much easier to shoot and I suspect that it looks more real as I didn't get the lighting as good as the first shot, I got irritated and put a hard light right out front to put a sparkle on the edges, you can see it plainly in the reflections. I have been using an Olympus Camedia E-10 because Pentax haven't produced a digital SLR yet :-( On 30 Dec 2001 at 8:06, David Brooks wrote: Even though i have a state of the art(D1) digital camera, i still have a lot to learn about lighting with it and PS digital editing.Until i do however the 5 Pentax film bodies are staying right were they are in my Lowepro. My recent motto:When in doubt,film it. Hi Dave, I don't know about you but my digital camera has become my de facto PS and has been relegated to the task of taking on shots not deserved of film, however I have gone out a few times now armed with a the digital and a 645 or 67 :-) On 30 Dec 2001 at 9:36, Ed Mathews wrote: Wow, these look great on my monitor. Hi Ed, Thanks, they looked cool on mine too that's why I put them out to be scrutinized, I haven't got it all sorted out though, I had something different in my mind when I started. BTW you should see the high resolution files :-) Cheers to all, Rob Studdert HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA Tel +61-2-9554-4110 UTC(GMT) +10 Hours [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Copying old photos with limited equipment.
I have to strongly agree with JC here. Scanning is the way to go with old prints. Thanks, Ed http://lightandsilver.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of J. C. O'Connell Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 12:32 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Copying old photos with limited equipment. WHY NOT SCAN THEM AND PRINT DIGITAL? -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Malcolm Smith Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 11:59 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Copying old photos with limited equipment. Hi everyone, My mother was lent a box of photos at Xmas of family taken many years ago (all B W). She only has it for a few more days, and I'd love to copy them. Of course, now would be a great time to own a camera stand, but I don't, so any advice on taking copies with either the LX or MX with a 50mm F1.2. I don't own that much Pentax equipment blush. Malcolm - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Black MX + Pentax 50 mm. 1.2
I have heard of a number of people having trouble with sellers in Korea and this seller has no feedback yet. I'd be a bit weary :) Cya - Original Message - From: Carlos Royo [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 7:39 AM Subject: Ebay: Black MX + Pentax 50 mm. 1.2 It's a pity that the seller only ships to the US ... US PDMLers, go for it! http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1316254850 -- Carlos Royo [EMAIL PROTECTED] Zaragoza (Aragon) - Spain -- - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: More on cleaning slides/negatives
PEC-12 cleaning fluid applied sparingly with PEC Pads. Maris - Original Message - From: Christian Skofteland [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 3:15 PM Subject: More on cleaning slides/negatives | Ok, I know we've covered this in the past but I'm going to ask again (and | pay attention to the answers this time!): | | How the #$!%*(^*%$ do you get all the dust off your slides or negatives | before you scan them? | | I've been trying to catch up on scanning slides with my new/used HP | PhotoSmart scanner. I've been using compressed air and anti-static wipes | on both the slides and the scanner itself but I'm still frustrated with all | the crap that shows up on the final scan. | | Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. | | Christian Skofteland | [EMAIL PROTECTED] | - | This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, | go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to | visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . | | - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: More on cleaning slides/negatives
On 30 Dec 2001 at 16:15, Christian Skofteland wrote: Ok, I know we've covered this in the past but I'm going to ask again (and pay attention to the answers this time!): How the #$!%*(^*%$ do you get all the dust off your slides or negatives before you scan them? Hi Christian, There are a few issues to consider WRT to your question, they are pertinent to both conventional printing and digital scanning (however scanning seems more sensitized to dust etc.) Firstly you will be chasing your tail if the room that you are working in is not clean ie it has to be regularly dusted and/or vacuum cleaned. Some photogs I know of even employ active filters and/or positive Ion generators to further reduce airborne dust and contaminants. The ultimate film cleaner that I found is from a company called Dycem, it consists of two opposing sticky rollers that the film is passed through along with an earthed anti-static brush across the film at the exit. The dust gets stuck on the rollers (which can be easily cleaned) and the brush neutralizes the charge on the film so that new dust is not immediately attracted to it. (I can't remember the URL but I have a pic.) The unfortunate thing is that this gear was really expensive (I don't remember just how much but I was glad that I was sitting down when I read the price :-) I thought that it was a good idea so I made a dodgy copy of it. I found some Taiwanese sticky lint removers made of what I guess was a similar material and have been using them with some success. BTW they just wash out in mild detergent, it's really weird rubbery stuff? I also have some really good water based foaming anti-static cleaner (VDU-99 from CRC Industries) that cleans and makes my work areas anti-static, this helps. Compressed Air (or Nitrogen) can make things a lot easier too, a quick spray before the film goes into the scanner ensures that all but sticky dust is removed from the film surface. Again though if the room is not clean this can serve to just stir up the dust and make more problems. I have a small bottle of nitrogen, a regulator (Oxygen), 10m of hose and a gun style fitting, I use this set-up to clean my film, scanners, cameras and lenses too. The cost of the hardware was under US$55 and I just rent the bottle. I hope that this helps :-) Just one more reason to love digital cameras. Cheers, Rob Studdert HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA Tel +61-2-9554-4110 UTC(GMT) +10 Hours [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: More on cleaning slides/negatives
How the #$!%*(^*%$ do you get all the dust off your slides or negatives before you scan them? Two words: Clone Tool The scan doesn't have to be perfect dust-wise. I use a can of air to get big particles out, and try to do as good as possible with that. Then I use Photoshop's clone tool to digitally remove any specs of dust. Set the view to 1:1 and scroll around the whole image. A Wacom tablet or similar makes the process very easy. I'm using a small Wacom Graphire that costs $90 or so and comes with Photoshop LE. It is a bit of work, but you have to do it only once per negative, as opposed to a real darkroom, where you have to deal with dust once per print (I had a bad experience with a particularly dusty darkroom setup, I realize dust is something that can be controlled without much hassle, but I'm still frustrated about it) Hth, j = -- Juan J. Buhler http://www.jbuhler.com Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Square Format plus.... clearly OT
On 30 Dec 2001 at 16:56, Ann Sanfedele wrote: While we are on the square format subject , I just picked up (possibly a mistake) an argus 75 TWL for $15.00 - more out of curiousity than anything else. IT takes 620 film...ergo.. but is 620 film still called that? I'd kinda like to try this little antique out - anyone have any experience with it or could recommend a good fine grain film for me to play with in this format? Hi Ann, I have a couple of Argus 75's (from way back), pretty rudimentary I know but good fun all the same (and the finder is a blast). I don't believe that 620 film is available any longer (not here anyhow) but in any case it is just 120 on a different spool. If the camera came with a 620 take up spool you should be OK, the 120 will float a little on the supply spigots but it will be OK. Just remember to rescue your spool if you don't process the film yourself. Try some Ilford FP4 Plus or Delta 100 :-) BTW I have one kit with the original flash, close-up lens and leatherette case. Cheers, Rob Studdert HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA Tel +61-2-9554-4110 UTC(GMT) +10 Hours [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: More on cleaning slides/negatives
What I do is this: I took a blower brush, removed the brush (it simply slides off, easy to put back on again) and I blow the strip of negatives or mounted slides (whatever I am scanning at that moment) after I have put them in the scanning holder. Sometimes the scan result is so that I redo this cleaning to remove a particle that escaped the first treatment, but usually this is not needed. I also used a can with compressed air, but it just doesn't last very long, and with the UK prices I didn't want to buy another one. Frits Wüthrich Christian Skofteland asked: Ok, I know we've covered this in the past but I'm going to ask again (and pay attention to the answers this time!): How the #$!%*(^*%$ do you get all the dust off your slides or negatives before you scan them? I've been trying to catch up on scanning slides with my new/used HP PhotoSmart scanner. I've been using compressed air and anti-static wipes on both the slides and the scanner itself but I'm still frustrated with all the crap that shows up on the final scan. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Christian Skofteland [EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Black MX + Pentax 50 mm. 1.2
This particular seller posted 15 items in an hour. He is no newcomer to ebay. Looks to me like someone with questionable feedback that just changed his ID. On Sunday 30 December 2001 16:15, Paul Jones wrote: I have heard of a number of people having trouble with sellers in Korea and this seller has no feedback yet. I'd be a bit weary :) Cya - Original Message - From: Carlos Royo [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, December 31, 2001 7:39 AM Subject: Ebay: Black MX + Pentax 50 mm. 1.2 It's a pity that the seller only ships to the US ... US PDMLers, go for it! http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1316254850 -- Kenneth Archer + San Antonio, Texas [EMAIL PROTECTED] ICQ #24980801 Powered by Linux ++ Mailed by Kmail - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: HELP, HELP: Z-1 won't sync at 1/250!
Richard Seaman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Gianfranco, Fantastic, you saved my life! I did, indeed, have the flash set to second curtain sync - seemed reasonable enough to me, but I certainly didn´t expect this strange result. The camera is now syncing at 1/250! If I was Italian I´d kiss you! As it is, I´m a repressed Anglo Saxon, so I´ll just say, thanks awfully, old chap Well, thanks awfully is enough... :-) Gianfranco (former repressed Italian) = Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Last 2001 PUG assignment: Lahuerta Theriault
Hi everybody, I didn't want to come to this, but, for a lot of reasons, I've postponed to comment on the PUG assignment shots once too long. I hope you'll be so kind to be indulgent... The Tower and the (Ghost) Church by Jaume Lahuerta. I like it. There are many things I can point out (like the building in the lower left corner, or the dark - dust? - spots in the upper part of the frame) that I feel a bit annoying, but the whole image works. I'd suggest to redo the shot with a tele in the same situation to see what happens when cropping on the field. The grain is not disturbing, though, and helps to the final result. Helpless by Frank Theriault. As you say, this is not a very good shot, neither is a really ugly one, though... What really doesn't work, IMNSHO, is the lack of a human presence under the inscription. I would have avoided to include in the frame the white edge of the sign over the inscription, too. I appreciate your intentions, though. That's all guys, I'm sorry I'm not able to say more. I promise I'll try to comment on the PUG pictures as soon as they appear on the web starting from January... Gianfranco = Send your FREE holiday greetings online! http://greetings.yahoo.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Copying old photos with limited equipment.
Use a tripod, cable release, and some sort of device that will hold the picture being copied fairly flat. (A printing easel might be a good thing to try) Try to light it from the left AND right with lamps of equal brightness (keep the light from hitting the lens if possible) with the lights equidistant at about 45 degree angle to the image being photographed. Use the slowest speed film that will allow a decent shutter speed (1/15, 1/8 are OK) and an aperture of about 5.6 or 8. Bracket if you want, make sure image is in focus and leave just a little around the edges of the image you are copying so that you don't lose any of the original. It is easier to shoot images of similar sizes together (one per photo) and filling the frame, probably horizontal (some will be sideways but of course that is not important while shooting.) ppro -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Malcolm Smith Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 11:59 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Copying old photos with limited equipment. Hi everyone, My mother was lent a box of photos at Xmas of family taken many years ago (all B W). She only has it for a few more days, and I'd love to copy them. Of course, now would be a great time to own a camera stand, but I don't, so any advice on taking copies with either the LX or MX with a 50mm F1.2. I don't own that much Pentax equipment blush. Malcolm - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: More on cleaning slides/negatives
I would bet it is pretty dry in your house. That causes a lot of static on the slide that holds the dust in place like a magnet. My experience is that when the humidity is 60% or so the dust pretty much blows off with compressed air. Short of humidifying the house you might try one of those anti-static gizmos, there used to be several on the market. Ciao, graywolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Christian Skofteland [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2001 4:15 PM Subject: More on cleaning slides/negatives Ok, I know we've covered this in the past but I'm going to ask again (and pay attention to the answers this time!): How the #$!%*(^*%$ do you get all the dust off your slides or negatives before you scan them? I've been trying to catch up on scanning slides with my new/used HP PhotoSmart scanner. I've been using compressed air and anti-static wipes on both the slides and the scanner itself but I'm still frustrated with all the crap that shows up on the final scan. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Christian Skofteland [EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: FREE SMC Pentax 28/2.0
Shel, The M28/2.0 is NOT a FREE lens (from observation). I suppose you want to know about the K28/2.0. Is there such an animal? Regards, Bob S. [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I understand - although I may be mistaken - that there were two versions of this lens, one with the FREE (Fixed Rear Element Extension) system (HA! You thought the lens was free) and a standard version. I've looked through Boz's site and can't find anything about this, and while I'll double check with the person who told me this, I'm anxious to learn more about this possibility - IOW, I don't want to wait a moment longer than needed. Can anyone verify this or provide a pointer to additional information. Thanks! - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Black MX + Pentax 50 mm. 1.2
Len, Sid has been a good contributor to our community. Why would you think that he wouldn't try to help us if he could? Regards, Bob S. [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Do you think he'll tell us if he gets ripped off? This kind of scam usually progresses to the point where he stops the auction and then sends e-mails the top 4 or 5 bidders and tells each them that the winner dropped out and that he'll sell it to them for what they bid. That way he gets 4 or 5 peoples money and never ships to any of them. Ebay considers it to be an uncompleted auction. Len --- That's odd. well, our very own Sid Barris has the current high bid. If he wins we'll have a chance to find out how the transaction went. Rob Studdert wrote: - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Copying old photos with limited equipment.
Malcolm, Short of getting hold of a tripod and a 100mm lens (macro or not), I would think about taking the photos to a copier at the drug store. My sister has made copies of old black white photos this way on their photo copier. It isn't as satisfying as doing your own scans of the photos, but it will do until you get a flatbed scanner. Regards, Bob S. [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: My mother was lent a box of photos at Xmas of family taken many years ago (all B W). She only has it for a few more days, and I'd love to copy them. Of course, now would be a great time to own a camera stand, but I don't, so any advice on taking copies with either the LX or MX with a 50mm F1.2. I don't own that much Pentax equipment blush. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Essential items for Pentax owners to have.
Hi Malcom ... It's really hard to answer your question as everyone's idea of what's needed is different, and everyone's idea of what's creative is different. You ran into an unusual - perhaps once-in-a-lifetime - situation, and that doesn't mean that you'll ever need a copy stand or a macro lens again. And, truth be known, had you more time to spend copying these photos, you may well have come up with some ingenious solutions yourself. All photography makes a statement, and all photography requires one skill or another, and perhaps a piece of specialized equipment. Personally, the kinds of photographs you're making are very creative. You have to document something clearly, without ambiguity, and in a manner that someone - even if only you - can look back and learn something from the photographs. That's a major accomplishment. Don't negate it. To make a photograph that shows what's intended is an accomplishment, and just because it's a photo of a bent car does not lessen the skill required to make such a photo when compared to, for example, a macro shot of a flower or a landscape. For those, or any photographs, to be successful, they must show what's intended - they must tell the story of the scene and recount the moment. That said, you've got enough of a kit to get started without adding lots more gear. Maybe a wider lens, like a 28mm, to compliment the 50mm, the 75~15o zoom, and the 500mm. Since you've got an LX you might consider the FB-1 finder base and the FC-1 eyepiece. That will allow easier work with close-up photography, but it will also allow you to use the LX in ways other than by holding the camera to your eye, allowing for a more interesting or creative POV with familiar subjects. Skip the expensive macro lens for a while until you're sure you need it. Get a set of extension tubes instead, and see how you like working close. If you do, and want to pursue that aspect of photography further, then you might consider a true macro lens. Instead of buying gear, experiment with new subjects and photographing familiar subjects in new ways. Learn the scope and limits of what equipment you have, and see where equipment may help improve your vision. Gear, in and of itself, does little or nothing to train the eye or increase creativity. Gear only helps you express the creativity you have. Malcolm Smith wrote: As I have become more interested in creative photography, what items would you say were essential. My use of a camera in the past has really been statement photography; accident photos showing damage for company insurance, taking shots of cars during rebuilding (in the hope that I will see how to put it back together the right way). Not creative at all - does it show what has been intended, that's all. I can't honestly say that any of the family pictures show a great deal of skill, other than showing how quickly the children are growing. Having established that I need a camera stand, macro lens, what other items are useful? I have a couple of filters and a 75 - 150mm zoom and a 500mm that I picked up at an auction for £40. That's it. I'd like to take a few frameable photos, as well as some suitable for Christmas cards. -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: FREE SMC Pentax 28/2.0
Yes, it is the K that interests me - and there certainly is such an animal g [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The M28/2.0 is NOT a FREE lens (from observation). I suppose you want to know about the K28/2.0. Is there such an animal? -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: FREE SMC Pentax 28/2.0
I have the K version. It is of classic construction, not the 'FREE' type. Got it from a PDMLer from Europe. Works just dandy for auroras. Michel Adam [EMAIL PROTECTED] Original Message- mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Shel Belinkoff Sent: Sunday, 30 December, 2001 23:30 Subject: Re: FREE SMC Pentax 28/2.0 Yes, it is the K that interests me - and there certainly is such an animal g [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The M28/2.0 is NOT a FREE lens (from observation). I suppose you want to know about the K28/2.0. Is there such an animal? -- Shel Belinkoff - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Calibrating Dichroic Heads for BW Printing
With all the recent discussion about darkrooms and enlargers, I thought this file might be of interest to some people on the list: Calibrating Dichroic Heads for BW Printing - PDF file You can find it in the newly created Darkroom section on my web site. Just click on the URL below, find the Darkroom section, and there you be. Have fun! -- Shel Belinkoff mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~belinkoff/ - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Winners (PDML 2001 Printer Challenge)
Here are the winners of the PDML 2001 Printer Challenge. For those who have not been following this Challenge, it all started when I told someone on the list I had never seen an inkjet print that I though matched a photographic print. He said I had not seen one of his. I replied, send me one. He didn't, but Aaron said everybody should send me one. And I said if they do I will post a list of printer ratings based on those prints. To prime the pump, I said I would confer upon the senders best three prints, based on my opinion, the title of PDML 2001 Master Digital Printer. I mentioned this to the area Pentax Rep and he offered to donate some Pentax memorabilia as prizes. So there are basically two phases to this challenge. One, a compilation of printer ratings based upon prints sent to me by list members. The rating for a given printer is based upon the best print I have received that was printed on that particular model printer. I will give the current ratings in another post. This list of rating is an ongoing thing and I will post them monthly. Two, this contest, based upon my purely subjective rating of the prints I have received. The winner's have been selected from those who had sent me prints postmarked on or before December 15, 2001, and were made from the submitter's original photos. Names of the prints have been assigned by me for my convenience. Prizes will be mailed about the end of the week. These three winners may add the sig line 2001 PDML Master Digital Printer to their PDML posts. You won it, flaunt it. So here are the WINNERS! (Drum roll please, maestro). - Third Prize (Winner of the Pentax PMA Lapel Pin featuring the MZ-S). Kathy Leickly --Autumn Trees Xerox Tektronix Phaser 850. No details Because I like it! Kathy sent three identical photos, one done on an HP Deskjet 722C, two done on the Xerox (one on plain paper, one on glossy photo paper). My selection for third place is the one done on the glossy photo paper with the Xerox. The Phaser printers are what Tektronics used to call solid state laser printers that use a block of toner instead of powder. Kathy says he blocks are wax like. The resulting print has a kind of oil painting like look to it. Strangely the print on plain paper is shinier - Second Prize (winner of the Leather Pentax Keycase). Paul Stenquist --Maple Leaf Epson Photo 1200, printed from a 4800dpi scan using an Agfa Duoscan 2500 T from a transparency taken with a Pentax LX and a Vivitar Series 1 90/2.5 Macro. Paul's print is on Ilford Inkjet Matte Fine Art Paper. The maple leaf seems to glow. This paper hides printer defects, but give an almost painting like print. Certainly the print is worthy of hanging on the wall. -- Grand Prize (winner of the Pentax Swiss Army Knife). Mike Nosal --Column Epson 1270, printed at 480dpi, from a scan made on an Imacon Flextight scanner. Taken with his Pentax ZX-7, and a F 80-200 lens. Mikes print of the details of a column is an example of a print that will show every defect of the printer. Large areas of monotone show any sign of banning or unevenness. The column is about 90% white which will clearly show up any halftoning. It shows very little of any of those problems. What it does show is that it is worthwhile to use a higher res image than is usually claimed to be optimum. Mikes superb print shows that today's inkjet printer can do very high quality work. Ciao, graywolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: FREE SMC Pentax 28/2.0
Michel Adam schrieb: I have the K version. It is of classic construction, not the 'FREE' type. Got it from a PDMLer from Europe. you mean to say: from meI now use the M28/f2. Both lenses are not FREE designs. However, the K28/f2 has a floating element. This is what the Color Foto photokina Sonderheft (special photokina 1976 edition of German magazine Color Foto) has to tell about the then new K28/f2: Dieses hochlichtstarke WW-Objektiv besitzt 'floating elements', d.h. im Nahbereich erfolgt eine korrigierende Linsengruppenverschiebung. Dadurch wird im Nahbereich die Abbildungsqualität verbessert. (This fast wide angle lens has floating elements, meaning that at close focusing a correcting lens group moves. Thus the picture quality at close focus is improved.) I very much doubt that there is a second version of the K28/f2 - the M28/f2 was introduced only four years after the K28/f2 had been introduced. My best wishes for everybody for the coming New Year, Arnold - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
