Mint 6x7 on ebay, act quick (BIN)

[Antti-Pekka Virjonen]

Just listed:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1352664412

Mint 6x7 + prism BIN $650.

US shipping only.

Antti-Pekka
---
* Antti-Pekka Virjonen * Fiskarsinkatu 7 D   * GSM: +358 500 789 753 *
* Computec Oy Turku* FIN-20750 Turku Finland * Fax: +358 10 264 0777 *
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Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[Bob Rapp]

Brian,
The bottom line is what works best for the individual and the
photography they do.
For me, I had used primes only from 1968 until 89 (with the exception of
a Vivitar zoom I bought in 71 and returned the following day). In 1989, I
bought my first AF camera and zooms - feeling that the optical quality had
improved. That lasted until 1999 when, by chance, I drug our my old
Spotmatic and a few lenses for a comparison shoot to see how far optics had
advanced in 30 years. The AF gear was sold to fund a LX and I have been
happier ever since. What the primes did was to remind me of how to see
again.
Again, this is personal and many may have only learned photography with
the latest AF cameras and Lenses. The trend can always be noted every time
one pops into a camera store.

Bob
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 3:07 PM
Subject: Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For
Student


 In 003001c1fa36$8a17ad30$1502a8c0@rappr, on 05/13/02
at 02:26 PM, Bob Rapp [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:

 |Your legs are painted on and don't want to walk closer.

 I really have an hard time understanding how this canard got started
 much less gets repeated.  Walking is not the same as zooming.
 Perspective changes,  subjects escape,  proximity offends, bridges and
 sheer drops do not permit getting closer even if they were equivalent.



 |As a stop-gap until you can afford primes.

 sure lets shoot that scene off the end of the dock with an 85mm prime
 then switch to a 150 for a detail and then switch to that 300 for
 another more distant detail.  Primes have advantages but stacking them
 up as a replacement for a zoom is not among them just as zooms have
 their very real place in the tool kit but an f3.5 zoom at 50mm is no
 replacement for an f1.4 50mm.

 differing philosophies but more agree with you than with me.


 Bran

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 -Discordian Catma
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re[2]: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[Bruce Dayton]

For me, I find that zooms tend to help me to take good snapshots.
Primes tend to make me think more about what I am trying to do.  Along
the same lines as an earlier discussion about how Medium Format forces
one to think a bit more about the shot due to 10 frames per roll.
Primes tend to make me think more about the focal length I really want
to work with because changing lenses is much slower than zooming.
Another way to put it is that with a prime, I tend to try to create
the picture and with a zoom I tend to record what I am seeing.

Each has their place and I use zooms when I am taking snapshots.  When
I am try to create a serious picture, I use a prime.


Bruce Dayton



Sunday, May 12, 2002, 11:16:49 PM, you wrote:

BR Brian,
BR The bottom line is what works best for the individual and the
BR photography they do.
BR For me, I had used primes only from 1968 until 89 (with the exception of
BR a Vivitar zoom I bought in 71 and returned the following day). In 1989, I
BR bought my first AF camera and zooms - feeling that the optical quality had
BR improved. That lasted until 1999 when, by chance, I drug our my old
BR Spotmatic and a few lenses for a comparison shoot to see how far optics had
BR advanced in 30 years. The AF gear was sold to fund a LX and I have been
BR happier ever since. What the primes did was to remind me of how to see
BR again.
BR Again, this is personal and many may have only learned photography with
BR the latest AF cameras and Lenses. The trend can always be noted every time
BR one pops into a camera store.

BR Bob
BR - Original Message -
BR From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
BR To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
BR Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 3:07 PM
BR Subject: Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For
BR Student


 In 003001c1fa36$8a17ad30$1502a8c0@rappr, on 05/13/02
at 02:26 PM, Bob Rapp [EMAIL PROTECTED] said:

 |Your legs are painted on and don't want to walk closer.

 I really have an hard time understanding how this canard got started
 much less gets repeated.  Walking is not the same as zooming.
 Perspective changes,  subjects escape,  proximity offends, bridges and
 sheer drops do not permit getting closer even if they were equivalent.



 |As a stop-gap until you can afford primes.

 sure lets shoot that scene off the end of the dock with an 85mm prime
 then switch to a 150 for a detail and then switch to that 300 for
 another more distant detail.  Primes have advantages but stacking them
 up as a replacement for a zoom is not among them just as zooms have
 their very real place in the tool kit but an f3.5 zoom at 50mm is no
 replacement for an f1.4 50mm.

 differing philosophies but more agree with you than with me.


 Bran

 --
 ---
 Any Discordian is expressedly forbidden to believe what she reads.
 -Discordian Catma
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Need advice for flash for Pentax PZ-1P

[mrlighthouse]

Hi All,

I'm looking for advice on buying a flash for my Pentax PZ-1P. I'm looking to
use the flash for mostly for indoor and outdoor portraits. I was considering
1 of the 3 following units: Metz54MZ-3, Pentax AF-360 FGZ or the Pentax
AF-500 FTZ. I would appreciate input that would help me in making the right
choice on which unit to purchase.

Thanks,

Ed 
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Re: Need advice for flash for Pentax PZ-1P

[Bruce Dayton]

Ed,

As I used to have PZ-1p's and used them extensively and had an
AF500FTZ and now have MZ-S's with AF360FGZ's, I'll give you my best
take.

For the PZ-1p, there are not really any great features that the new
360 has over the 500.  The one exception is the 360 flash has a sensor
so can be used with old, non-TTL bodies.  But with the PZ-1p, the
500FTZ is a great flash.  It has more power than the 360, but costs a
bit more.  It also feels a bit more rugged in build.

If you are anticipating getting an MZ-S in the future, then the 360
might be worth considering - you only lose on GN compared to the 500,
but if you are sticking with the PZ-1p, then get the 500FTZ.

Sorry I can't comment on the Metz.




Bruce Dayton



Sunday, May 12, 2002, 11:59:18 PM, you wrote:

m Hi All,

m I'm looking for advice on buying a flash for my Pentax PZ-1P. I'm looking to
m use the flash for mostly for indoor and outdoor portraits. I was considering
m 1 of the 3 following units: Metz54MZ-3, Pentax AF-360 FGZ or the Pentax
m AF-500 FTZ. I would appreciate input that would help me in making the right
m choice on which unit to purchase.

m Thanks,

m Ed 
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Re: 45 - 125mm zoom question

[Paul Ewins]

 AFAIK, the close-up lens was an accessory item. For the filtersize: Gerjan
 van Oosten explains it in his ultimate AP screwmount guide. The size on
the
 lens is 58mm but you need a 67mm step-up ring to prevent vignetting when
 using filters. Thats why the original hood is a two piece item, a step-up
 ring and a 67 mm hood.

Thanks to all who provided the explanation. Sure enough, mine is a two part
hood as described, and once I really went looking I found it mentioned in
the the little orange K lenses book. Seems a strange system, but I suppose
it was cheaper than trying to accomodate a step in the lens barrel just
for the filters.

I wonder what sort of hood could be used for the long end of the range. The
A85 1.4 is an obvious candidate, but some of the 67 and 645 lenses use a
67mm size too, so maybe one of those could be used.

Paul Ewins
Melbourne, Australia
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Re: lenshoods for A*85 f/1.4 (was: Re: A certain eBay item...)

[Cotty]

The PH-SA is indeed longer at 2 3/8 tall.

Ah, but not as much as it looks in the pics. There's half an inch in it - 
and after all, forget the length, feel the quality ;-D

Spits AND Mustangs and quite a bit else I imagine...

Ah, the dreaded W-word. Yeah, me too. Being an employee I get 25 days 
paid leave per year. Where do they all go

I shouldn't post this here, but I just sent Brendan this list of the ten 
cars that would sit in my garage if I won the lotto:

72 Charger
AC Cobra (with some Shelby treatment!!)
Top of the line Range Rover (just fer cruisin)
CJ-5 Jeep with some -off monster mudders
Land Rover Defender (my daily driver right now)
Aston Martin Vantage
Ginetta G4
Citroen 2CV (for those times when my head is over in France...)
a big Mercedes-Benz van converted to a motor home
and finally, a modern, run-of-the-mill family Ford - to use as target 
practice!

(now that's enough cars -Ed.)

Cheers,

Cotty

___
Personal email traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
MacAds traffic to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Check out the UK Macintosh ads 
http://www.macads.co.uk
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Re: A*85/1.4 - one for $1,100+, one for $438

[Camdir]

In a message dated 12/05/02 21:46:53 GMT Daylight Time, Bojidar writes:

  It is difficult and
 expensive to receive playment from outside the EU, and there is no way
 to insure packages that go to the USA. 

Are you sure? 

Peter
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Re: Photographica report

[Camdir]

In a message dated 13/05/02 02:26:17 GMT Daylight Time, Paul writes:

 Hi Peter,
 
 Do they come with the free Harry Potter gift ? :) 

Another obtuse reference? Do you really get AP over there? All bar the Tamron 
come with the free giftie.

Peter
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Re: Photographica Report

[Camdir]

 Hi Peter,
  The four footer, is that a 1000/8 M42?
 
 Steve Larson
 Redondo Beach, California
 
 Peter wrote:
 
 
  New toys;
 
  Let's see, the first is about four foot long, weighs I guess 6kg, and
 comes
  with it's own tripod. 

Actually I am sure it is more like 10kg. It's not the lens you mentioned. 
Have another guess.

Peter
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Re: Okay folks, fess up, WAY OT

[Sas Gabor]

Hi,

On 10 May 2002 at 13:52, Bill Owens wrote:
 I'll go first (hanging my head in shame)

No shame at all.
We have to use some non-Pentax equipment regularly just to see the 
diffrence.. ;-)
 
 My question is; How many of you will confess to owning and/or using either
 the K60 or the K88?

I have a nice Kiev88 with 3.5/45, 2.8/80, 2.8/150, a removable lens 2X TC, 
TTL prism and waist level finder + 2 magazines. A very capable set, but I use 
it only a few times a year, for special purposes. 

For regular shooting, I like my little Pentaxes (LX, MX) so much more...
The K88 is far too big for a second body, most of the time I carry around 
my CertoSix (6x6 RF folder) instead.


Gabor
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Elicar Ring light

[Bob Rapp]

Has any one had any experiences with the Elicar ring light flash? It is
supposed to have a modelling light and a flash sensor mounted on the ring
light.

Any help would be appreciated.

Bob Rapp
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Re: Medium Format - I can see clearly now...

[Aaron Reynolds]

On Friday, May 10, 2002, at 06:57  PM, Jeff wrote:

 I don't care much about the green color cast in the RSX.

Eek!  That's not your RSX, that's a warning sign at your lab: either the 
colour developer time was too short or the temperature too low, or the 
colour developer is close to exhaustion, or if it was dip  dunk, either 
the bubblers aren't firing right and the chemistry isn't being agitated 
enough.

Have a chat with them.  They may not know that a problem is there -- RSX 
is pretty sensitive to those kinds of things.  Bring the film along to 
show them, especially anything with an open patch of neutral colour 
where you can see the shift.

-Aaron
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RE: Re: Advice Needed For Student

[Peifer, William [OCDUS]]

Regarding the K1000, William Robb wrote:
 Think simple, elegant and reliable. I don't think the K1000 gets
 the respect it deserves. It has all the features one needs for
 photography, in a simple, clean, well laid out body. It would be
 nice if it had direct DOF preview, rather than having to goof
 the camera to get it.

Ah, ~that~ would be the KM.  Simple, elegant, reliable... plus self-timer
and DOF preview button.

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY
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Re: OT: Re: Photographica report

[Camdir]

In a message dated 13/05/02 14:26:28 GMT Daylight Time, Bob writes:

 Peter,
 
 You have to get out more.  Harry Potter is a fictional character in a series 
 of best selling books and a recent movie.  I believe he is written as an 
 English School Boy aged 11 or 13.  We had overnight lines at the bookstores 
 when the last book came out.  
  

eh???

I thought Paul was referring to our stocktaking sale offer (October 2001) - 
all purchases over £100 get free Harry Potter photo albums. As AP obviously 
takes some time to make it's way to him. 

KR

Peter
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RE: A*85/1.4 - one for $1,100+, one for $438

[tom]

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Bojidar Dimitrov
 
 Of course, FedEx and UPS will ship insured, but shipment to 
 the USA of a
 4 lb. package with a $500 value costs $240!!!
 
 If you have any other ideas, I will gladly listen...

DHL?

tv
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Re: Photographica Report: Pentax 6x7 TTL prism

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 Yes I think I had a pretty productive day. snip Pentax 6x7
TTL prism for £50, I
 think its broken as I can't see the needle.   Can someone who
owns one of these prisms confirm that the
 needle should indeed still be visible with the prism removed
from the
 camera?

Yes. When the prism is removed, the meter needle should be
visible, pointing at the minus indication.

William Robb
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Re: IR and MZ-S (was RE: (2): Last Call, Torontonians)

[David Brooks]

Tom.I think it was the data imprinting but Aaron can
tell us for sure.

Dave
 Begin Original Message 

From: tom [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Mon, 13 May 2002 09:43:37 -0400
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: IR and MZ-S (was RE: (2): Last Call, Torontonians)


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of David Brooks


 It was good beer.Actually that parkette by the FlatIron
 building would have been good for IR shots but the sun
 went away in the PM.Aaron showed me IR negatives
  from an MZ-S(I think)that bleed through past the
 sproket holes.If you have an older body that might be
 advisable.

Was it the frame counter or the data imprinting?

BTW, the ZX-5n is fine for IR. I'm not sure I ever tried it in the 1p.

tv
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 End Original Message 




Pentax User
Stouffville Ontario Canada
http://home.ca.inter.net/brooksdj

Sign up today for your Free E-mail at: http://www.canoe.ca/CanoeMail 
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Re: Photographica Report

[Camdir]

 Pentax telescope?
 Steve Larson
 snip
 Subject: Re: Photographica Report
 
 
   Hi Peter,
The four footer, is that a 1000/8 M42?
 
   Steve Larson
   Redondo Beach, California
 
   Peter wrote:
 
 
New toys;
   
Let's see, the first is about four foot long, weighs I guess 6kg, and
   comes
with it's own tripod. 
 
  Actually I am sure it is more like 10kg. It's not the lens you mentioned.
  Have another guess.
  
Keep going...you didn't ask me what color it was, yet :)

Dave Mann - keep schtumm

Peter
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Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[Christian Skofteland]

On Monday 13 May 2002 09:24, Lukasz Kacperczyk wrote:
IMO zooms are only useful when there's
 no time to change lenses, or move around, and while shooting
 transparencies. 
 Lukasz

Please explain.  How are zooms more useful for shooting transparencies?  What 
has film type got to do with lenses or focal lengths??

For the record I shoot 99% transparencies and use primes exclusively because 
I like them better not because I am less lazy than someone who uses zooms.  
Zoom lenses have their place as do primes.  For the record, I use my zooms 
when I use print film (BW).

This whole argument about discipline and creative processes based on lens 
type used is crap especially when punctuated with comments such as the one 
quoted above.


Christian
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Re: Re: Advice Needed For Student

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: Peifer, William [OCDUS
Subject: RE: Re: Advice Needed For Student


 Regarding the K1000, William Robb wrote:
  Think simple, elegant and reliable. I don't think the K1000
gets
  the respect it deserves. It has all the features one needs
for
  photography, in a simple, clean, well laid out body. It
would be
  nice if it had direct DOF preview, rather than having to
goof
  the camera to get it.

 Ah, ~that~ would be the KM.  Simple, elegant, reliable... plus
self-timer
 and DOF preview button.

It would have been nice if they had kept the KM in the lineup,
rather than stripping it into the K1000. Unfortunately, they
didn't, and KMs are a bit rare compared to K1000s

William Robb
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Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: tom
Subject: RE: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice
Needed For Student



 
   When I sold the MZ-30 and bought a MX with a
  50mm, I got back
  to the times of the Roleiflex, when one had to actually
  move to change
  perspective, which resulted in better pictures - IMO zooms
  make people lazy.

 Hmm. A zoom lens made *you* lazy, therefore zooms make people
lazy.

 Whatever.

I've seen it happen more often than not.
Some people are better disciplined than others.
Most will take the easy way, which is not necessarily the right
way.
Some turn pro, figure they know it all, and get dismissive about
the learning curve that they went through themselves.
Whatever.

William Robb
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Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: Christian Skofteland
Subject: Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice
Needed For Student




 This whole argument about discipline and creative processes
based on lens
 type used is crap..

Whatever.

William Robb
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RE: A*85/1.4 - one for $1,100+, one for $438

[HUDERER Bernd]

Hi Boz and all,

it's not completely true that there is no insurance available at all.
I sent a parcel with a lens to an Australian PDML member. There was an
insurance available, but not for the complete way. IIRC it was insured up to
Australia. Inside Australia it was not insured. But I selected a delivery
which has to be signed by the receiver. That gives a certain amount of
security.
But to express the big amount of fees in Germany. I had to pay at the post
office around 30 US$ for transport and insurance ! If I would transfer
money to America, it would cost me about 15..20 US$ !! That's crazy. Only
escape is via VISA, PAYPAL and similiar possibilities.
Even if we want to transfer money to other European countries ( most of them
use now the EURO, so there are no currency eychanges ), the fees are still
about 10..15 US$. We wait hopefully that these fees get cancelled, but up to
now I have no date for that. As long as the banks don't get forced by the
government, I suppose they will take a lot of money for such transfers.

Hey American guys, do you still claim about the nationalistic Germans ? I
suppose and hope not.

Ciao
Bernd H.

Boz wrote
 My statement applies only to Germany.  The German Postal 
 Office will NOT
 ship insured to any country outside of the EU.  I found this 
 incredible,
 so I asked at three different post offices, and then made an official
 inquiry.  The result was always the same --- no insurance to countries
 outside the EU.
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RE: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[Lukasz Kacperczyk]

Tom,
I can only speak for myself, and that's exactly what i din in my post. I
guess the choice of words obscured what I *really* meant. That's why I
started with the words my experience.
Lukasz

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of tom
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 3:44 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For
Student


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Lukasz Kacperczyk

  When I sold the MZ-30 and bought a MX with a
 50mm, I got back
 to the times of the Roleiflex, when one had to actually
 move to change
 perspective, which resulted in better pictures - IMO zooms
 make people lazy.

Hmm. A zoom lens made *you* lazy, therefore zooms make people lazy.

Whatever.

tv
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Re: Any info on 80-205mm f4.5 Takumar, with Macro?

[Eduardo Carone Costa Jr.]

Hi Stan,

I have this lens and also the Takumar Zoom 70-150/4.5 that preceded it. They
are both great lenses and perform much better than one would expect from
lenses that old.

The 70-150 is a Super Takumar lens, while the 80-205 is a Super Multi Coated
Takumar one. However, the later doesn't have the open aperture lever that
was introduced for that series of lenses.

They are both extremely well built lenses and you can see no expenses were
avoided or corners cut by Takumar on their production. The older lens uses a
much needed tripod collar that is, unfortunately, not present at the 80-205.

They both need an attachment close focus lens to focus at objects closer
than 3.5 meters. On the 70-150 the filter ring is a 67 mms one, while the
80-205 uses a 58 mms one. With such attachments they will both focus from
1.9 to 3.5 meters, indicated by a third focusing distance scale on their
respective barrels. I suspect the not so short minimum focusing distance
helps prevent distortion at the short end of their zoom ranges.

The hood for the 80-205/4.5 is exactly the same used by the 135/2.5 and the
200/4, except for the markings.

The 80-205 is a VERY long lens an, IMHO, needs a tripod more than other zoom
lenses of similar range.

This is only a subjective view and,for what it's worth, I consider it's
optical performance to be similar to the Vivitar S1's 70-210/3.5 that I also
use.

I haven't used the Takumar in a situation where flare would be a problem but
I suspect it's as good as the other SMC lenses of this vintage, perhaps a
little worse due the number of elements.

It's definitively not mushy at the long end...;-)

I hope this helps.

Best regards,
 Eduardo.



- Original Message -
From: Stan Halpin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: PDML [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 11:23 PM
Subject: Any info on 80-205mm f4.5 Takumar, with Macro?


 Does anyone have any practical experience with the subject lens? Has
anyone
 ever seen one? I received a note from someone who has one and is wondering
 about it. I can tell him that older zooms tended to be weak and mushy at
the
 long end, distorted at the short end. And would show flare if not SMC
 coated. But all of this would be extrapolation from what has been said
about
 other lenses, not based on direct reports. Can anybody help me out?

 Stan
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RE: A*85/1.4 - one for $1,100+, one for $438

[TM]

Bernd-
I wouldn't complain about bank fees of $10US for currency transfers- it
is $40US here in the US.

Taka
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Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[Christian Skofteland]

I make prints all the time of my photos.  When I print my 
transparencies I crop them to fit frame formats or to further enhance the 
composition just as I do with print film (I don't always crop them though).  
I don't use transparency film to do slide shows.  I use it because I prefer 
its properties to that of color print film.  

I still don't understand what lens type has to do with film choice.  

Christian



On Monday 13 May 2002 10:27, you wrote:
 Cause you don't exactly crop transparencies, and zooms allow one to leave
 out unwanted objects in situations when otherwise it would be impossible.
 Regards,
 Lukasz
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Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[Mishka]

I cannot believe I am writing another prime vs zoom... 

Still, I am just back from vacation and have my 2c ready. I think one
important aspect of primes is underrated: convenience. For this week I
had in my bag a 24, a 50 and a 135 lenses. The final result was that I
took a half dozen pics with 24mm, a half dozen with 135mm, and the rest
of 5 rolls with 50mm. I had to swap the lenses only 3-4 times, and
those were moments when I *had to* -- there's no way to take any
sensible pic with the normal lens. And the 1 smal lens + 1 small body
setup is godsent when you have to carry it on your shoulder from 8 am
to 1 am day after day and shoot in busy places in a moderately friendly
city!

I think the single strongest attraction to zooms is that people feel
that otherwise, having only 1 normal lens, they would miss a lot of
shots. This can be true or false, depending how you look at it.
Speaking for myself, I have realized one day that I cannot take *every*
shot, no matter what lenses I have. It is physically impossible. The
trick is to get the best out of what you have. And this is where the
fun is, since you have to turn your brain on. In the end it turns out
that the percentage of trully missed opportunities is tiny and most of
shots can be taken with almost any sensible lens if you give it a
little thought (of course, street photography with 500mm tele is
probably as inconvenient as shooting birds with 20mm wide angle, but I
am not talking about extremes here).

In the end, I think zooms are great for people who are trying to figure
out whether photography is worth doing at all. But once you are after
that stage, it's just another annoyance -- extra weight to carry, extra
compromises to cope with and not much use if you think about it. 
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
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RE: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[Lukasz Kacperczyk]

Cause you don't exactly crop transparencies, and zooms allow one to leave
out unwanted objects in situations when otherwise it would be impossible.
I have nothing against zoom lenses, and don't think they're limiting in any
way unless they are used to learn the basics of composition (and I guess the
original post was about exactly this). Still, it's my opinion I'm entitled
to have, and I don't deny you the right to think it's crap ;)
Regards,
Lukasz

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of Christian Skofteland
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 3:57 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For
Student


On Monday 13 May 2002 09:24, Lukasz Kacperczyk wrote:
IMO zooms are only useful when there's
 no time to change lenses, or move around, and while shooting
 transparencies.
 Lukasz

Please explain.  How are zooms more useful for shooting transparencies?
What
has film type got to do with lenses or focal lengths??

For the record I shoot 99% transparencies and use primes exclusively because
I like them better not because I am less lazy than someone who uses zooms.
Zoom lenses have their place as do primes.  For the record, I use my zooms
when I use print film (BW).

This whole argument about discipline and creative processes based on lens
type used is crap especially when punctuated with comments such as the one
quoted above.


Christian
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Re: A*85/1.4 - one for $1,100+, one for $438

[Bojidar Dimitrov]

Hi Bernd,

 it's not completely true that there is no insurance available at all.
 I sent a parcel with a lens to an Australian PDML member. There was an
 insurance available, but not for the complete way. IIRC it was insured
 up to Australia. Inside Australia it was not insured.

As I understand it, the German Post Office changed their insurance
conditions recently (2001).  I too sent a package to Australia in March
2001, and it was not insured.

 If I would transfer money to America, it would cost me about 15..20
 US$ !! That's crazy. Only escape is via VISA, PAYPAL and similiar
 possibilities.

Note that PayPal charges extra for currency conversion.

 Even if we want to transfer money to other European countries ( most
 of them use now the EURO, so there are no currency eychanges ), the
 fees are still about 10..15 US$. We wait hopefully that these fees get
 cancelled, but up to now I have no date for that. As long as the banks
 don't get forced by the government, I suppose they will take a lot of
 money for such transfers.

€ in an insured envelope works extremely well, even if it is against the
rules.  $ works too, only you have to pay the exchange fees.

 Hey American guys, do you still claim about the nationalistic Germans?

I am sure that this was a joke...

Cheers,
Boz
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Re: A*85/1.4 - one for $1,100+, one for $438

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: HUDERER
Subject: RE: A*85/1.4 - one for $1,100+, one for $438



 Hey American guys, do you still claim about the nationalistic
Germans ? I
 suppose and hope not.

HAR!! That comment was not made by an American
WW
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Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[LEDMRVM]

In a message dated 5/13/2002 10:03:27 AM US Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


 In the end, I think zooms are great for people who are trying to figure
 out whether photography is worth doing at all. But once you are after
 that stage, it's just another annoyance -- extra weight to carry, extra
 compromises to cope with and not much use if you think about it. 
 

No. They are simply not much use when you think about it. There are 
times/places when I get as far as I can with my feet - then I use the zoom 
for the final precise framing. Primes are fine - I use them as often as I 
can. Your regard for zooms as an 'annoyance' is your prerogative, but your 
regard does not make them an annoyance for everyone. 
Oh, damn! I can't get the framing I want with my prime lens, so the shot 
isn't worth having. Nonsense.

Ed Matthew
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Re: Contax N Digital - spec changes

[b_rubenstein]

One problem with full sized imaging chips, that does 
sound plausable, is related to the geometry of the 
sensor cells. They are somewhat like photon buckets 
with a certain depth. If light doesn't come straight in 
it is blocked by the walls of the bucket. This becomes a 
significant factor towards the edge of the chip since 
the light rays coming from the lens are at an angle. 
This was the reason given for significant light falloff 
for an early Kodak DSLR with a full sized chip. The only 
way to avoid the problem would be to use a larger 
diameter lens, or apply some sort of transform function 
to the chip output.
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Vs: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[Raimo Korhonen]

Framing - it is not as easy to crop a slide as a print - can be done, of course. If 
you only make prints from slides, it´s no difference but for slide shows and 
preparation for the printed page it is.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at http://www.uusikaupunki.fi/~raikorho

-Alkuperäinen viesti-
Lähettäjä: Christian Skofteland [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Vastaanottaja: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Päivä: 13. toukokuuta 2002 16:07
Aihe: Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student


On Monday 13 May 2002 09:24, Lukasz Kacperczyk wrote:
IMO zooms are only useful when there's
 no time to change lenses, or move around, and while shooting
 transparencies. 
 Lukasz

Please explain.  How are zooms more useful for shooting transparencies?  What 
has film type got to do with lenses or focal lengths??
snip

Christian
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Vs: Contax N Digital - spec changes

[Raimo Korhonen]

There are digital backs for Hasselblad and Rollei MF cameras (at least) that use 
existing lenses. The thing about filters in front of the sensor is basically correct 
but Contax must use them, too. The lenses designed specifically for digital images 
have lower resolution - but it is not a good reason for bragging.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at http://www.uusikaupunki.fi/~raikorho

-Alkuperäinen viesti-
Lähettäjä: Pål Audun Jensen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Vastaanottaja: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Päivä: 13. toukokuuta 2002 13:39
Aihe: RE: Contax N Digital - spec changes


I don't believe anything of the below for a moment.



To all of you guys waiting for Nikon or Canon coming out with a 1-1
because you have lenses, don't, It will never happen. In order to get
1-1 they will have to design all new lenses, and you will have to buy
them. The reason being the distance that is needed for infinity focus
and that of coverage of the 1-1 chip + the distance needed for the
filters that goes between the lens and chip ( which Contax / Kerocera
makes for all camera companies Nikon, Canon, bla bla bla. Not only that,
but the specs on your old lenses don't stack up to what is needed for
digital, not by a long shot. On top of all of that your Hasselblad and
Mamiya medium format lenses that you wanted to use with that Digital
back you where going to buy don't cut the mustard either. But guess
what, The Contax N1  645 Lenses do as they were designed for it before
the N1 or those Leaf and Kodak backs where made. They are the only
lenses, right now that give you the optimum digital results. I could
give you more on that but I'm way beyond my typing or writing skills
already and want to get this done.
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Re: nikon sponsored tv shows

[Pentxuser]

I watch the show every Sunday morning. It's just one big add for Nikon but 
it's still a good show 

In a message dated 5/12/02 12:20:57 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

I was just watching the OLN series wildlife adventures
and they had a
bit on whale watching and needed equipment. Obviously
being sponsored
by Nikon you'd expect to see only Nikon cameras but
what baffled me
were some of the claims made. The worst was about
Aperture Priority
and shutter priotiy modes on the F90x, the gentleman
displaying the
cameras said ONLY NIKON can do it! Followed by 3
min of Nikon
adds. So much for truth in media.

__
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Re: Vs: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[Christian Skofteland]

I agree for slide shows but not the printed page.  After all that's just a 
scan that is then cropped to fit the page just as a negative would be.

Christian

On Monday 13 May 2002 12:28, you wrote:
 Framing - it is not as easy to crop a slide as a print - can be done, of
 course. If you only make prints from slides, it´s no difference but for
 slide shows and preparation for the printed page it is. All the best!
 Raimo
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RE: Photographica Report: Pentax 6x7 TTL prism

[Peifer, William [OCDUS]]

David Mann wrote:
 Pentax 6x7 TTL prism for £50, I think its broken as I can't see the
 needle

and William Robb replied:
 Yes. When the prism is removed, the meter needle should be visible,
 pointing at the minus indication.

Hi Dave,

I may have some good news for you.  I bought a TTL prism finder with an
~allegedly~ inoperative meter.  Mine had the same symptom as yours -- that
is, I couldn't see the needle in the viewfinder.  Turned out my metering
circuit actually ~did~ work, and the reason I couldn't see the needle was
because a reflecting optic inside the housing had come unglued.  It was
~very~ simple to fix.  I suspect this might be a common problem.

This reflecting optic is actually a little rectangular prism that sits just
in front of, and just slightly below, the eyepiece.  You'll need to remove
the cover from your TTL prism finder to get access to this piece.  Removing
the cover is fairly simple.  Once the cover is off, the rest is pretty
straightforward.  Here's how

(1)  Remove the shutter speed dial assembly.  You may want to first set the
ASA at something like 100, and the shutter speed position to something like
1/60.  To remove this dial, you'll need to loosen and remove the screw in
the center of the dial (you can bend a paperclip to fit into the holes on
this screw, then twist anticlockwise, using a pair of tweezers to securely
grasp both sections of the paperclip).  Lift off the dial, then the ASA
indicator wheel and spring underneath.

(2)  Remove the Asahi Pentax (or Honeywell Pentax) plastic nameplate
from the front of the prism finder cover.  This nameplate is held in place
with a little glue.  You'll see a couple of screw heads once you remove the
cover.

(3)  Finally, remove the seven or eight screws holding the prism finder
cover in place.  There are two in the front, two in the rear, two on one
side, and one or two on the other side.

(4)  Now it's time to find out if the metering circuit works or not.  With
the cover off, you can now see two important things -- one of these
important things is the meter itself, along with the + and - exposure
indicators.  It will be over toward the left as viewed from the rear of the
prism finder.  Take your 6x7 body, and remove the lens if one is attached.
Mount the meter onto your 6x7 body, making sure the detents click into
place.  Mount a lens on the body, making sure the lens is set to the AUTO
position.  You now want to turn the TTL finder circuit ON.  You'll have to
manually switch the TTL finder circuit on by momentarily touching the two
ON connectors together.  Now point the lens to a bright light, and watch
the meter needle for a response.

If the needle responds as it should to more or less light, increased or
decreased aperture (set at the lens), and increased or decreased shutter
speed (set by moving the little potentiometer under the shutter speed/ASA
dial), then your metering circuit is just fine.

(5)  Now to fix the reflecting optics.  It may be best to remove the prism
finder from the body at this point.  I mentioned in Step #4 that there are
two important things you can see with the prism finder cover removed -- one
of these things is the meter itself, and the other thing is a pair of screws
holding the eyepiece housing to the rear of the prism finder body.  You'll
need to remove this eyepiece housing to see the little rectangular
reflecting optic I mentioned at the beginning of my note.  Remove the two
securing screws, then CAREFULLY tip the eyepiece housing away from the prism
finder housing.  (I say carefully, because there are a couple of delicate
wires inside this eyepiece housing which connect the power contacts to the
metering circuit board.  They're prone to break at the contacts, and they
~can~ be resoldered, but it's kind of a nuisance to have to do that, so be a
bit careful.)

(6)  With the eyepiece housing tipped away from the prism finder body, you
should see a little blackened rectangular glass prism located just in front
of and below where the eyepiece was located.  IIRC, prism dimensions are
about 5mm x 5mm x 20mm.  Chances are this little rectangular prism has come
unglued.  You can probably push this little prism back and forth in its
milled recess with your fingers, or a stiff piece of card, or a dental pick,
etc.  Slide it so the angled, unblackened end is roughly centered under the
eyepiece area, then temporarily hold the eyepiece housing back in place and
see if the meter is now visible in the bottom center of the prism finder
field of view.  (It helps to allow light from a desk lamp to illuminate the
top area of the finder, above the meter.)  You may have to repeat this a few
times, but you should eventually find a position for this little reflecting
prism where the view in the eyepiece looks the best.  Without allowing the
little reflecting prism to move, inspect its optimal position, then glue in
place with a little contact cement or Super Glue.  Now reattach the eyepiece
housing and 

Re: Photographica Report

[David . Mann]

Peter wrote:

 Keep going...you didn't ask me what color it was, yet :)

 Dave Mann - keep schtumm

No fair.  I was hoping to get a free Harry Potter photo album for guessing
(its a pancake lens!).

Thanks to William Robb for the prism info.  I wonder how it got damaged...
someone must have dropped the camera it was attached to or something.
Another question: the plastic thumbwheel that sits under its shutter speed
dial, is that meant to be a completely separate part, or is it supposed to
stay attached to the prism assembly?  Mine is not attached and it seems
like it would be very easy to lose when I put the waist-level finder on.
Going by the picture on both BH and KEH it looks like it is a separate
part.  Also the power switch doesn't actually lock into the on or off
positions, it just springs back to the middle.  A different prism I played
with does the same.  Is that normal?

I am thinking that I got what I paid for ;)  No big deal though, its what I
expected for only 50 portraits of the Queen.

BTW I would have responded to William privately but the archive website
doesn't give out email addresses...

- Dave
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Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[Pentxuser]

Everyone is different. There is no right and wrong. The quality of a fixed 
focal length lens is, in 95 per cent of the times, better than the quality of 
a zoom. Does it matter? Not if you are making prints 8X10 or less or if you 
are printing out on a inkjet or using a cheap photo lab.
There are good reasons for using both zooms and fixed focal length. Why 
carry around a big, heavy 28-100 zoom if you can carry an elegant 28mm and a 
100mm f2.8. Your end result will be better, your load lighter and ...
Saying this, I have many zooms that I use often and enjoy very much. 
They include:
28-105, 
75-150
70-210
100-300
Sometimes I take one or two zooms to photograph a particular subject. If 
buying zooms, however, get the best you can to maximize quality. P.S. that 
does not mean the most expoensive...
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Repairing a broken aperture coupling chain on the 6x7

[Peifer, William [OCDUS]]

Hi folks,

The aperture coupling chain on the 6x7 body is a bit fragile, and it's not
uncommon that the chain eventually breaks.  The repair is somewhat expensive
if you take it to a repair shop, but I found from personal experience that
it's not too difficult to fix it yourself.  Recently, I passed what I
learned on to another 6x7 owner -- an astrophotography buff from Austria who
had posted a request for assistance on Photo.net.  He was able to complete
the repair, and he's now posted my repair instructions, along with a few of
his pictures, on his web site.  If any of you find yourself with a broken
aperture coupling chain and you wish to attempt the repair yourself, you may
find the following web site useful:

http://www.salzgeber.at/articles/6x7chainRepair.html

Two of the pictures posted along with the written instructions are the
relevant line drawings from the service manual, showing the correct
adjustments referenced in the text.  Hope this helps!

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY
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Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[Mishka]

Ed, 
I should have made clear that I was talking about recreational
photography only. Of course, if you are shooting for money, if you have
to take *this* shot, you have to take it, period. 

OTOH, if your goal is to take *a* good picture, pretty much any object
can be shot from a dozen different angles, with a dozen of different
focal lengths, and so on, and with equally great end result. With zoom
you can get the first one that pops in your head, immediately, without
realization that there are other choices/compositions. With a single
prime you have to figure which one would work the best. And often, as a
result of thinking, at least speaking strictly for myself, it is
possible to find a better, or, more interesting aspect. And as I said,
again, from my experience, the number of truly missed shots is usually
negligeable, if you do some thinking before pushing the button.

 From: LEDMRVM 
 Date: Mon, 13 May 2002 08:19:30 -0700 
 
 --
 
 Oh, damn! I can't get the framing I want with my prime lens, so the 
 shot isn't worth having. Nonsense.
 
 Ed Matthew
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
http://launch.yahoo.com
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Re: Re: A*85/1.4 - one for $1,100+, one for $438

[Rfsindg]

No insurance outside the USA on postal shipments either!

I checked and the US Postal Service only can provide insurance within the USA borders. 
 This is especially a problem when sending payment outside the USA.  In some cases 
like Germany, the US Post Office no longer offers international money orders.  I can 
send a registered letter, but only insured to $40.00.

Regards,  Bob S.

Boz wrote:
 My statement applies only to Germany.  The German Postal
 Office will NOT ship insured to any country outside of
 the EU.  I found this incredible, so I asked at three
 different post offices, and then made an official
 inquiry.  The result was always the same --- no insurance
 to countries outside the EU.
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RE: Photographica Report

[Peifer, William [OCDUS]]

Concerning the 6x7 TTL prism finder, David Mann wrote:
 The plastic thumbwheel that sits under its shutter speed dial, is that
 meant to be a completely separate part, or is it supposed to stay
 attached to the prism assembly?  [Snip]

 Also the power switch doesn't actually lock into the on or off positions,
 it just springs back to the middle.  A different prism I played with does
 the same.  Is that normal?

Hi Dave,

Yes, it's a completely separate part, and it can be purchased new for a
ridiculous price ($30 US or thereabouts, IIRC).  You're right -- it's easy
to lose.  Bill Robb told me a while back that this TTL ring was included
with the original TTL prism finder when purchased new, but that sellers of
used TTL prism finders often do not include this helpful little thumbwheel.
I believe I read on the Greenspun archive that a cut-up piece of plastic
35mm film canister works just as well.

That ON/OFF switch is meant to be a momentary contact switch.  The fact that
it rests in the middle position between ON and OFF is perfectly normal.

By the way, Dave, I was hoping you might consider gathering and reporting a
little bit of useful information.  If you happen to remove your TTL prism
finder cover to reveal the circuit board underneath, I wonder if you might
possibly be able to measure the resistances that the three potentiometers on
the circuit board are set to.  I'd be especially interested in what readings
you get with the prism finder removed from the camera body.  I've measured
the values for mine, and I believe these are appropriate when one is using a
brighter-than-normal screen.  I'm wondering what the values are, typically,
for a prism finder calibrated for a normal screen.

Well, must get some lunch now.  Cheers!

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY
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Re: Photographica Report

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Subject: Re: Photographica Report



 Thanks to William Robb for the prism info.  I wonder how it
got damaged...
 someone must have dropped the camera it was attached to or
something.
 Another question: the plastic thumbwheel that sits under its
shutter speed
 dial, is that meant to be a completely separate part, or is it
supposed to
 stay attached to the prism assembly?  Mine is not attached and
it seems
 like it would be very easy to lose when I put the waist-level
finder on.
 Going by the picture on both BH and KEH it looks like it is a
separate
 part.  Also the power switch doesn't actually lock into the on
or off
 positions, it just springs back to the middle.  A different
prism I played
 with does the same.  Is that normal?

The thumbwheel is a separate component, but is supplied with the
meter prism (note to those who buy them on eBay).
The switch that you describe is working normally. The meter is
activated by flicking the momentary switch to on, and releasing
it. The meter will deactivate on it's own in about a half
minute.
I found Bill Pfeifer's description of the prism problem both
lucid, and likely. The meter prism, like all things 6x7 is
pretty robust. I would actually be quite surprised if the meter
movement is broken. If the needle is not visible, the internal
mirror, which I was not aware of, is a very likely culprit.
Bill, I would be very interested in aquiring your repair
instructions for the meter linkage chain. If there is a weak
spot in the 6x7, this is it.
Thanks

William Robb
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RE: Contax N Digital - spec changes

[Rob Brigham]

Well, I think it's pretty clear that making current N***n 35mm lenses
work with 35mm-size CCDs is indeed quite possible. And they work well.
The Horseman Digiflex proves that beyond any doubt. It really is the end
of the argument. The feat is already being done. (And while I know of no
camera that is doing this with C***n lenses -- or with other 35mm brands
-- I can't see any reason to think that if it's possible with N***n
lenses it wouldn't be possible with C***n's.)


 -Original Message-
 From: Raimo Korhonen [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
 Sent: 13 May 2002 17:27
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Vs: Contax N Digital - spec changes
 
 
 There are digital backs for Hasselblad and Rollei MF cameras 
 (at least) that use existing lenses. The thing about filters 
 in front of the sensor is basically correct but Contax must 
 use them, too. The lenses designed specifically for digital 
 images have lower resolution - but it is not a good reason 
 for bragging.
 All the best!
 Raimo
 Personal photography homepage at http://www.uusikaupunki.fi/~raikorho
 
 -Alkuperäinen viesti-
 Lähettäjä: Pål Audun Jensen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Vastaanottaja: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Päivä: 13. toukokuuta 2002 13:39
 Aihe: RE: Contax N Digital - spec changes
 
 
 I don't believe anything of the below for a moment.
 
 
 
 To all of you guys waiting for Nikon or Canon coming out with a 1-1
 because you have lenses, don't, It will never happen. In 
 order to get
 1-1 they will have to design all new lenses, and you will 
 have to buy
 them. The reason being the distance that is needed for 
 infinity focus
 and that of coverage of the 1-1 chip + the distance needed for the
 filters that goes between the lens and chip ( which Contax 
 / Kerocera
 makes for all camera companies Nikon, Canon, bla bla bla. 
 Not only that,
 but the specs on your old lenses don't stack up to what is 
 needed for
 digital, not by a long shot. On top of all of that your 
 Hasselblad and
 Mamiya medium format lenses that you wanted to use with that Digital
 back you where going to buy don't cut the mustard either. But guess
 what, The Contax N1  645 Lenses do as they were designed 
 for it before
 the N1 or those Leaf and Kodak backs where made. They are the only
 lenses, right now that give you the optimum digital results. I could
 give you more on that but I'm way beyond my typing or writing skills
 already and want to get this done.
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Re: RE: A*85/1.4 - one for $1,100+, one for $438

[Rfsindg]

Bernd H. wrote:

Hey American guys, do you still claim about the nationalistic Germans ? I suppose 
and hope not. 

Bernd,

That was the Canadian 'Wheatfield Willy' making that claim about US nationals and 
Germans.  I think he was joking, but those Canadians get crazy this time of year with 
the Hockey playoffs and the tundra thawing. g  

It sounds like your banks are also extracting heavy fees for international 
transactions.  There has to be a business opportunity here somewhere.

Regards,  Bob S.
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Re: A*85/1.4 - one for $1,100+, one for $438

[Heiko Hamann]

Hi Paul,

you wrote:

Bullshit! See Bojidar's explanation for the facts.
Nice sprachgefuehl,* Heiko!

From the usenet's netiquette (see http://www.faqs.org/faqs/usenet/ 
primer/part1/):

--Start
...

 Be Careful with Humor and Sarcasm.

  Without the voice inflections and body language of personal
  communications, it is easy for a remark meant to be funny to be
  misinterpreted.  Subtle humor tends to get lost, so take steps to make
  sure that people realize you are trying to be funny.  The net has
  developed a symbol called the smiley face.  It looks like :-) and points
  out sections of articles with humorous intent.  No matter how broad the
  humor or satire, it is safer to remind people that you are being funny.

...
End

Regards,

Heiko


BTW - Sprachgefuehl is correct.
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Re: Advice Needed For Student

[Ann Sanfedele]

Peifer, William [OCDUS] wrote:

 Regarding the K1000, William Robb wrote:
  Think simple, elegant and reliable. I don't think the K1000 gets
  the respect it deserves. It has all the features one needs for
  photography, in a simple, clean, well laid out body. It would be
  nice if it had direct DOF preview, rather than having to goof
  the camera to get it.

 Ah, ~that~ would be the KM.  Simple, elegant, reliable... plus self-timer
 and DOF preview button.

Ahhh that would be the KX too :)

annsan



 Bill Peifer
 Rochester, NY
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RE: LX repair

[Rupprecht, James R]

Any aversion to Pentax doing the work? Repair time is 4-6 weeks, and
expedited service is available for an added charge. Essentially, they will
give the body a complete overhaul and bring everything back into spec. You
get a 1 year warranty on the work (and the entire body) once they return it.

They have yet to let me down, including my most recent LX, which is 20+
years old, had impact damage, and had been in a box for the past eight
years. 

The address is:

Pentax Corporation
Attn: Service Dept.
35 Inverness Drive East
Engelwood, Colorado 80112

-jim


-Original Message-
From: Ann Sanfedele [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 2:28 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: LX repair


Ok, I know someone gave me some good info on this earlier and I thought
I had saved it but... alas...

I have one possible source, but would like another.  I really do need to
get the blasted body fixed
light meter screwed up, sticky mirror too.

Best scenario - good recomendation in NYC or close.  forget PHOTO-TECH -
they seem unable
or unwilling to do CLA or real repairs on camera bodies of this vintage
(20 years old).  sigh.

annsan
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RE: Vs: Contax N Digital - spec changes

[Brian Walsh]

Mark Roberts wrote:
Horseman has pretty well debunked the standard 35mm lenses won't work with 
full-frame CCDs nonsense by making a camera that uses Nikon lenses with 
Megavision T32 and H2O digital backs (it is, of course, hideously 
expensive). Here are some shots taken with an 18mm. 
http://www.ashleymorrison.com/H20%20image/Test004.html

I started eating crow when I saw those images a few weeks ago. It doesn't 
taste half bad.
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What the papers say...

[Bob Walkden]

From the techie section in today's Independent 'Review', by Charles Arthur:

The digital camera revolution is very much upon us. Digital cameras
overtook standard film cameras some time last year in terms of volumes
sold. Where once you were proud to show off your new Pentax SLR with its
removable lenses, to look swish now you need a great-looking digital
camera.

So there you have it. It's Pentax SLR or fixed lens digital rangefinder.

Bob
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Subject: What the papers say...
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From the techie section in today's Independent 'Review', by Charles Arthur:

The digital camera revolution is very much upon us. Digital cameras
overtook standard film cameras some time last year in terms of volumes
sold. Where once you were proud to show off your new Pentax SLR with its
removable lenses, to look swish now you need a great-looking digital
camera.

The Canon IXUS 330, whose sleek steel and aluminium lines are reminiscent
of Leicas of old.





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John Lewis plc  Registered in England 233462
Registered office   171 Victoria Street London SW1E 5NN
  
Websites: http://www.johnlewis.com and http://www.waitrose.com  
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Re: Need advice for flash for Pentax PZ-1P

[Robert Woerner]

Unfortunately, this has happened to me also. Forgot to mention it.  I wonder 
if the 360 is prone to this?

Robert

One point about the AF500FTZ and batteries -- I noticed on a trip that 
when I
pulled out the flash, my brand-new lithium AAs were DEAD! In fact, this has
happened with that flash twice. I'm guessing that it's easy for the unit to
be accidentally turned on while travelling in a camera bag, so -- based on
that theory -- I no longer leave the batteries in it while transporting the
flash. When I'm setting up to shoot, that's when I put them in, and remove
them when done.

ERNR
My photographs hang on the virtual walls at http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
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Winder Motor Cover for SuperProgram

[Robert Woerner]

I need a winder motor cover for a SuperProgram. Anyone know of a source?
I haven't tried Pentax USA. Is it the best bet for one?

Thanks,

Robert

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Re: Advice Needed For Student

[LEDMRVM]

In a message dated 5/13/2002 2:31:17 PM US Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


  Regarding the K1000, William Robb wrote:
   Think simple, elegant and reliable. I don't think the K1000 gets
   the respect it deserves. It has all the features one needs for
   photography, in a simple, clean, well laid out body. It would be
   nice if it had direct DOF preview, rather than having to goof
   the camera to get it.
 
  Ah, ~that~ would be the KM.  Simple, elegant, reliable... plus self-timer
  and DOF preview button.
 
 Ahhh that would be the KX too :)
 
 

And the K2.

Ed
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Re: Contax N Digital - spec changes

[T Rittenhouse]

That might make some sense if the buckets were the same size, but they are
not..

Ciao,
Graywolf
http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto



- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: Contax N Digital - spec changes


 One problem with full sized imaging chips, that does
 sound plausable, is related to the geometry of the
 sensor cells. They are somewhat like photon buckets
 with a certain depth. If light doesn't come straight in
 it is blocked by the walls of the bucket. This becomes a
 significant factor towards the edge of the chip since
 the light rays coming from the lens are at an angle.
 This was the reason given for significant light falloff
 for an early Kodak DSLR with a full sized chip. The only
 way to avoid the problem would be to use a larger
 diameter lens, or apply some sort of transform function
 to the chip output.
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RE: Advice Needed For Student

[Peifer, William [OCDUS]]

Regarding the KM, I wrote:
 Simple, elegant, reliable... plus self-timer and DOF preview button.

and Annsan duly noted:
 Ahhh that would be the KX too :)

Right you are, Annsan!  And of course the KX comes with mirror lock-up, too
-- something lacking from both my K1000 and my KM.  (Of course, there's that
flick-of-the-shutter-button-trick)  I think I recall reading a comment
from George DeFockert quite a long time ago about the fact that the KX
viewfinder is considerably brighter than that of the other K-series bodies.
If only I could have found a bargain KX for the price I got my bargain KM
for!  ;-)

By the way, how's the weather today in the Big Apple?  It's really miserable
up here.  Unless one ~likes~ rain, wind, and temperatures in the mid-40s.
Uggh!  Maybe the sun will come out later this week?

Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY
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Battey Life

[Andy Vu]

I just bought many AA batteries, and a friend told me to store it in the
refrigerator to save battery life. But when I was in videography school,
the professor told us to keep battery in a warm place. I am really
confused, does anyone know?
 
Regards,
Andy
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Re: What the papers say...

[T Rittenhouse]

Wow! They are selling more $850 digitals than $6 disposables. Who would have
figured? Or, is that liar's do figure? Now, if they said the digital is more
of a yuppy status symbol than an SLR, I would have no problem with that.

Ciao,
Graywolf
http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto



- Original Message -
From: Bob Walkden [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 4:21 PM
Subject: What the papers say...


 From the techie section in today's Independent 'Review', by Charles
Arthur:

 The digital camera revolution is very much upon us. Digital cameras
 overtook standard film cameras some time last year in terms of volumes
 sold. Where once you were proud to show off your new Pentax SLR with its
 removable lenses, to look swish now you need a great-looking digital
 camera.

 So there you have it. It's Pentax SLR or fixed lens digital rangefinder.

 Bob
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 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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   2001) at 13/05/2002 17:02:26
 MIME-Version: 1.0
 Content-type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

 From the techie section in today's Independent 'Review', by Charles
Arthur:

 The digital camera revolution is very much upon us. Digital cameras
 overtook standard film cameras some time last year in terms of volumes
 sold. Where once you were proud to show off your new Pentax SLR with its
 removable lenses, to look swish now you need a great-looking digital
 camera.

 The Canon IXUS 330, whose sleek steel and aluminium lines are reminiscent
 of Leicas of old.





 *

 Notice:  This email is confidential and may contain
 copyright material of the John Lewis Partnership.
 If you are not the intended recipient, please
 notify us immediately and delete all copies of this
 message.  (Please note that it is your responsibility
 to scan this message for viruses).


 *

 John Lewis plc Registered in England 233462
 Registered office 171 Victoria Street London SW1E 5NN

 Websites: http://www.johnlewis.com and http://www.waitrose.com
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Re: LX repair

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: Ann Sanfedele [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 1:27 PM
Subject: LX repair


 Ok, I know someone gave me some good info on this earlier and
I thought
 I had saved it but... alas...

 I have one possible source, but would like another.  I really
do need to
 get the blasted body fixed
 light meter screwed up, sticky mirror too.

If you don't mind shipping internationally, Pentax Canada is
doing all three of mine at the moment, so they should be well
practiced. The charges start at about Can$300.00 (around
US$200.00), and go up from there depending on parts required.
One of mine needs a new circuit, which has put the price at
Can$500.00.

William Robb
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Re: Batts and the PZ1P (WAS: Need advice for flash for Pentax PZ-1P)

[Nick Wright]

I second this. I purchased two sets of Rayovac NiMH rechargables along with
the one hour charger by the same manufacturer. NiMHs are just about a total
necessity if you do much shooting with this flash at all. They are quicker
to recharge than alkaline and they last longer. With this flash I used to
take 2 sets of aklalines to shoot one football game, switching at the half.
With the NiMH I only need to take one set, this is highschool football by
the way. I choose the Rayovac batts over the other brands because they had a
longer life 1600mha vs the other's 1300mha. Also the one hour charger has a
car kit available so if the need ever arose I'd have that option for
charging. Speaking of the TR Power Pack II, has it ever been determined if
you can use NiMH batts in that? I know you cannot use nicads, but never saw
if you cannot use the NiMH...
--
Nick Wright
http://www.wrightfoto.com/

--
From: Brendan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Need advice for flash for Pentax PZ-1P
Date: Mon, May 13, 2002, 2:19 PM


 Nimh rechargables and 1 hr quick charger has been a
 life saver. The Flash does turn it self on when loose
 in  bag, it also can't auto off if bumping into it's
 own buttons.

 --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 In a message dated 5/13/2002 12:15:36 PM Central
 Daylight Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


  I have a PZ1p with an AF500FTZ flash.  Great
 combo, powerful, swivels
  up/down and sideways, has AF assist IR lamp. I
 don't think the flash can be
 
  beat when used with a PZ1p. Some say it is a
 battery hog. I agree with this
 
  perception as far as using alkaline batts. Use
 lithium and it goes a lot
  further.

 One point about the AF500FTZ and batteries -- I
 noticed on a trip that when I
 pulled out the flash, my brand-new lithium AAs were
 DEAD! In fact, this has
 happened with that flash twice. I'm guessing that
 it's easy for the unit to
 be accidentally turned on while travelling in a
 camera bag, so -- based on
 that theory -- I no longer leave the batteries in it
 while transporting the
 flash. When I'm setting up to shoot, that's when I
 put them in, and remove
 them when done.

 ERNR
 My photographs hang on the virtual walls at
 http://members.aol.com/ernreed
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 Games, Movies, Music  Sports! http://entertainment.yahoo.ca
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RE: Battey Life

[TM]

Batteries in the case of AA are electrolytic cells- you would
refrigerate
them to slow ion movement, which would improve battery life.

Taka

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Andy Vu
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 4:24 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Battey Life


I just bought many AA batteries, and a friend told me to store it in the
refrigerator to save battery life. But when I was in videography school,
the professor told us to keep battery in a warm place. I am really
confused, does anyone know?
 
Regards,
Andy
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Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For

[William Robb]

Cool, you both just don't get it do you?
I think I am going to crawl under a rock now.

William Robb

- Original Message -
From: Mishka
Subject: Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice
Needed For


 Jonathan,

 I have to admit, I am too lazy to change lenses most of times.
And I
 still think that prime(s) help me take better pictures. In
fact, I
 found that swapping the lenses usually have negative effect,
since it
 distracts me from what I am trying to photograph: I am
spending time
 thinking where the hell is that red dot?, rather than which
angle of
 view works better?.

 My main problem with zooms is that they encourage my natural
tendency
 to slip into Point-And-Shoot mode. With primes, it's not just
changing
 the camera position that matters -- it's slowing me down and
making me
 think about the picture, since the first thing that pops in
the
 viewfinder is usually composed bad enough that it prevents me
from
 pushing the button exactly that instance. For very similar
reason I
 have a better percentage of pics I am not ashamed to show to
people
 other than my mother if I shoot with a fully-manual MF camera,
be it a
 6x7 or 'cord -- I cannot PS with them.

 By the way, I seriously doubt that there's the right
perspective and
 the right focal length as well as the best shot, otherwise
I would
 open a business selling sticky tags with printed right
solutions
 tomorrow! G

 Mishka
  From: Jonathan Donald
  Subject: Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice
Needed For

  Date: Sun, 12 May 2002 22:55:07 -0700
 
  ...
 
  Too many choices may overwhelm a beginner.
  This is my analysis as to why a novice photographer
  may make blah photographs with a zoom, not because
  it was a quick and dirty way out of spending time on
  the composition. With so many choices to make with the
  zoom, the novice simply makes a few more wrong
  choices (i.e. zooms instead of changing camera
  position). It is debatable whether ~forcing~ a
  photographer to ONLY change position is of value. It
  does teach a lesson I suppose, but places all the
  emphasis on perspective and virtually none on the
  effect of focal length. If a photographer is always
  lazy by zooming, he/she may just as likely be lazy by
  using only one focal length all of the time. A balance
  of the right perspective and the right focal length is
  required to obtain the best shot. Whether this is done
  with zooms or primes is irrelevant, and a matter of
  taste. Just my .02
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Re: IR and MZ-S (was RE: (2): Last Call, Torontonians)

[Aaron Reynolds]

On Monday, May 13, 2002, at 09:43  AM, tom wrote:

 Was it the frame counter or the data imprinting?

It was both...the frame counter from the bottom, the data imprinting 
(set to the lowest setting, I was told) from the top.  Pretty gruesome.

Not advisable unless you intend to crop panoramas out of the middle.

-Aaron
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Re: Winder Motor Cover for SuperProgram

[Andreas Wirtz]

 No, You don't need! It is totaly useless!
A. Wirtz
 
  Robert Woerner [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I need a winder motor cover for a 
SuperProgram. Anyone know of a source?
LAUNCH - Your Yahoo! Music Experience
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RE: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[tom]

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of William Robb
 - Original Message -
 From: tom
 Subject: RE: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice
 Needed For Student
 
  Hmm. A zoom lens made *you* lazy, therefore zooms make people
 lazy.
 
  Whatever.

 I've seen it happen more often than not.
 Some people are better disciplined than others.
 Most will take the easy way, which is not necessarily the right
 way.
 Some turn pro, figure they know it all, and get dismissive about
 the learning curve that they went through themselves.
 Whatever.

I never said I knew anything, much less everything. I just have issues
with anyone in any field saying there's one true way to learn. Not
only are there several ways to learn, people have different
motivations and ends.

I got dismissive because it's bad logic.

BTW, I had no compositional learning curve.

tv
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Re: Winder Motor Cover for SuperProgram

[William Robb]

- Original Message - 
From: Andreas Wirtz 
Subject: Re: Winder Motor Cover for SuperProgram


 No, You don't need! It is totaly useless!
 A. Wirtz

Besides, there is no such thing.

William Robb
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Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: tom
Subject: RE: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice
Needed For Student



 I never said I knew anything, much less everything. I just
have issues
 with anyone in any field saying there's one true way to learn.
Not
 only are there several ways to learn, people have different
 motivations and ends.

 I got dismissive because it's bad logic.

 BTW, I had no compositional learning curve.

You don't get it either Tom. It's not about composition. It's
about learning how to see,

William Robb
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RE: Send Mz-S to Repair

[Emilio Puga]

I think nothing for a Malasian Company, you know how well they pay their
people??¿¿.


-Mensaje original-
De: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]En nombre de Lukasz Kacperczyk
Enviado el: lunes, 13 de mayo de 2002 0:51
Para: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Asunto: RE: Send Mz-S to Repair


What's wrong with Malaysia? ;)
Lukasz

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of Emilio Puga
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 10:44 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Send Mz-S to Repair


Oh, god apologise me, don´t buy a MZ-S, BUY TWO OF EM. Well, I have to
say you that mine was of the earlier series, new cameras don´t have this
problems, and believe me it´s a GREAT CAMERA, yesterday I held a Dinax 7 and
yes It looks like if it were designed by George Lucas, but doesn´t have the
finish of my beloved pentax, and one detail, one of the first things I look
when someone try to sell me a camera is to look at the bottom, and guess
what I found on Dinax/Maxxum 7??¿¿
MADE IN MALASYA Now I understand those cheap plastics.


-Mensaje original-
De: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]En nombre de David S.
Enviado el: domingo, 12 de mayo de 2002 18:35
Para: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Asunto: Re: Send Mz-S to Repair


Emilio Puga wrote:

 Hi group, few weeks ago I were asking you if someone had problems with
 Mz-S´s rewind when using Slide film, cracks and unrewound rolls, and a you
 told me that it is normal, cause mz-s´s film receptacle is a bit critical
 with film positioning, well, after two weeks of tests, and after following
 all your instrutions, I send my camera for repair to Reflecta Spain
(pentax
 distributor). The thing its that after two weeks they call me saing that
 they don´t see anithing wrong on the camera, then I asked the repair man
if
 they tried it with Slide film, and guess the answer??? -Oh, not tried with
 slide because don´t have a roll here- Ok, they will test it on monday and
 say something to me.
 Oh god everithing is happening to me, my 645n makes wrong aperture
readouts,
 my Mx´s meter is locked on the on position, my tokina 28-70 2,6 crashed ,
 uaaa what can I do?? place a candle to someone?? or maybe pay a
gipsy??


I am beginning to know what you feel like.  I have to put $2000 of repairs
into
my vehicle.  I WAS thinking of buying an MZ-S, that will be delayed now.

--
David S.
Nature and wildlife photography http://www.sheppardphotos.com
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Re: Odp: Re: Odp: Polacy na PDML (was Re: )

[Artur Ledchowski]

-
Great idea! What about next week (saturday evening)???
Best regards
Sylwek 

Unfortunately next weekend I'm going fishing...
Greetz
Artur
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Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[Chris Brogden]

Some thoughts on zooms... I think zooms are great tools for teaching
cropping, but not that great for teaching someone how to see in terms of
a particular focal length.

If you stand in one place and take a series of photos with a zoom lens set
to, say, 28mm, 35mm, 50mm, 85mm and 105mm, you're not taking five
different photos.  All you're doing is taking one photo at 28mm and then
cropping differently.  Perspective, proportion... everything stays the
same as you zoom in.  Zooming a lens does not give you a different photo,
only a different crop.

OTOH, if you took a 28mm lens and took five photos while walking
towards an object to make it larger, *then* you'd have five different
pictures.  The size of the object would still be increasing in your
viewfinder, but its relation to the background and the apparent
perspective of the photo would be changing.

Can you set a zoom lens to a particular focal length and use it like a
prime?  Of course.  Do zooms encourage this kind of shooting?  Not at all,
IMO.  I think zooms can be a great tool if used correctly.  They can give
you an idea of how a shot will look like from different crops, and they
can take the place of several primes if you are willing or able to use
your feet.

As for whether or not zooms are good for beginners... I'm staying out of
that one.  :)  I agree with Bill in theory, but I also think that there
are a lot of beginners out there who would have the discipline to use a
zoom properly if their instructor explained the issue to them.

chris
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Shipping from Germany to USA via UK

[Cotty]

I'm probably tempting fate here, but...

If any listmember would like to buy from eBay Deutschland and would like 
a middleman - I will volunteer - as long as it's not a flood.

Confirm with seller that he/she will ship to UK (we're still in the EU as 
far as I know, even though we've yet to ditch the pound). Bid. Win. Pay 
the seller - that bit's up to you. Have them ship to me in England (I 
dunno - say it's a present :-) and I will forward on the package, with 
insurance via Royal Mail air mail to you in the USA. UK - USA about 4 or 
5 days.

Reimburse me the cost of the postage, plus a bottle of plonk (cheap wine) 
and I'll play. (Told you I wuz cheap)

Of course, I can offer further services -  testing, for instance, you 
want to make sure that 135 1.8 works like they said in the auction, 
right??? ;-)

Off list if you're serious.

Cotty

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Re: Winder Motor Cover for SuperProgram

[Rfsindg]

Robert,

There is no winder motor cover and never has been one for the Super Program/Super A.  
This camera came without one out of the box, OEM!  I've had one for 19 years and it 
has never been a problem for me.

Regards,  Bob S.

I need a winder motor cover for a SuperProgram. Anyone know of a source?  I haven't 
tried Pentax USA. Is it the best bet for one?

Thanks,

Robert   
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Re: Photographica report

[Paul Jones]

Hi Peter,

Yep we do, some one at work had a copy with the black and white special. I
was actualy surprised that it had some interesting articles in the b/w
special.

Regards,
Paul
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: Photographica report


 In a message dated 13/05/02 02:26:17 GMT Daylight Time, Paul writes:

  Hi Peter,

  Do they come with the free Harry Potter gift ? :) 

 Another obtuse reference? Do you really get AP over there? All bar the
Tamron
 come with the free giftie.

 Peter
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Beautiful Oddities For Sale

[Fred]

I have some mostly uncommon or unusual lenses now up for pre-eBay
sale.  Many are Pentax lenses, while many other are third-party cult
classics.  They are all K-mount items (except for the 400/5.6
Novoflex lens head, which has to mate with a Novoflex focusing
mount).

I have the list of lenses for sale posted at
http://www.cetussoft.com/pentax/lenslist.htm .

I am offering these items to the list, in case any of you guys has
been looking for any of these.  I have not put a price on each - I
am looking for reasonable bids on these - one of the nice things
about eBay is that I don't have to come up with prices in advance -
the market will determine the selling prices - g.

If you are interested in any of these critters, please reply
DIRECTLY to [EMAIL PROTECTED] - please do NOT reply to the list -
for questions and/or to offer a reasonable bid.

Please note that I have no intention of simply giving any of these
away, so please make any bid a reasonable bid.  I don't mind
settling for a little less than what an item might get on eBay - no
seller's fees to pay - but I'm offering these for sale to get back
at least most of my investment in each of them, and not to be
charitable.

The buyer will pay all shipping costs.  Payment must be in USD by
PayPal OR by USPS Postal Money Order ONLY (and, obviously, PayPal
would have to be used by non-US buyers.)

The unsold lenses will go onto eBay shortly (where they will be
offered only to US bidders).

Thanks for your interest.

Fred
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Re: Old Aircraft Photography

[Cotty]

Fredo!

I have to confess that I do have a fondness for some of the older
military aircraft (especially the B-17 and the P-51, my favorite
bomber and fighter, respectively).  I also would like to sometime
see a P-38 (I assume that there must be a few still surviving) and I
also would love to see an Me-109 someday.  

snip

 I do hope
to eventually see some of the other remaining B-17's that are still
around, and my ultimate dream trip (with photo gear, of course)
would be a journey to the locations of some of the old B-17
airfields in the UK (East Anglia area).

Come on over fella! Duxford is just such an East Anglian aerodrome. I 
don't know if a Flying Fortress will be present but I can sure as heck 
find out. P-51s, definately. Me-109, I'll have to check. Apparently the 
climax of the three hour show is ALL the flying display planes trouping 
past in formation - we're talking a couple a dozen at least - all going 
ten to the dozen. They say it's pretty unbelievable.

http://www.macads.co.uk/pdml/

carrot --- stick,

Cotty

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Re: LX repair

[Ann Sanfedele]

No aversion at all -- I was just hoping not to have to _send_ it anywhere
if I could help it :)

Actually, this was the one place someone once recommended to me before...
The one in Colorado.

annsan

Rupprecht, James R wrote:

 Any aversion to Pentax doing the work? Repair time is 4-6 weeks, and
 expedited service is available for an added charge. Essentially, they will
 give the body a complete overhaul and bring everything back into spec. You
 get a 1 year warranty on the work (and the entire body) once they return it.

 They have yet to let me down, including my most recent LX, which is 20+
 years old, had impact damage, and had been in a box for the past eight
 years.

 The address is:

 Pentax Corporation
 Attn: Service Dept.
 35 Inverness Drive East
 Engelwood, Colorado 80112

 -jim

 -Original Message-
 From: Ann Sanfedele [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
 Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 2:28 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: LX repair

 Ok, I know someone gave me some good info on this earlier and I thought
 I had saved it but... alas...

 I have one possible source, but would like another.  I really do need to
 get the blasted body fixed
 light meter screwed up, sticky mirror too.

 Best scenario - good recomendation in NYC or close.  forget PHOTO-TECH -
 they seem unable
 or unwilling to do CLA or real repairs on camera bodies of this vintage
 (20 years old).  sigh.

 annsan
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Re: Winder Motor Cover for SuperProgram

[Alan Chan]

I need a winder motor cover for a SuperProgram. Anyone know of a source?
I haven't tried Pentax USA. Is it the best bet for one?

All Pentax 135 SLR bodies after the M series do not have this cover, AFAIK.

regards,
Alan Chan


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Re: Battey Life

[Cotty]

I just bought many AA batteries, and a friend told me to store it in the
refrigerator to save battery life. But when I was in videography school,
the professor told us to keep battery in a warm place. I am really
confused, does anyone know?

WARM! But not hot. Temperate. Room temperature. (why is it wherever you 
go it's always room temperature?? --steve wright)

Cold does no good for batteries at all...

Cotty

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re: pawn shops and skylight filters

[Martin Mielke]

Hi all

I realized that I didn't get back to the list and mention that I got the filter off my 
lens with a wrench. Thanks for the suggestions.

Martin
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Re: LX repair

[Paul Stenquist]

Hi Ann,
I know it's less convenient, but I'd send it to Pentax Colorado. They've
been doing good work lately, and if they do screw up they'll fix it. 
Paul

Ann Sanfedele wrote:
 
 Ok, I know someone gave me some good info on this earlier and I thought
 I had saved it but... alas...
 
 I have one possible source, but would like another.  I really do need to
 get the blasted body fixed
 light meter screwed up, sticky mirror too.
 
 Best scenario - good recomendation in NYC or close.  forget PHOTO-TECH -
 they seem unable
 or unwilling to do CLA or real repairs on camera bodies of this vintage
 (20 years old).  sigh.
 
 annsan
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Re: Vs: Contax N Digital - spec changes

[Mark Roberts]

Raimo Korhonen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Maybe this could be avoided by the use of some kind of optics in front of the chip?

The legendary Bill Peifer addressed this many moons ago:

Peifer, William [OCDUS] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

All this talk about analog vs. digital lenses has got me wondering a
bit.  I'm curious where this whole idea of CCD sensors requiring (or
preferring) perpendicular rays originated.  I'm pretty convinced that it
must have originated because somewhere along the line, something got taken
out of context, and a fundamentally incorrect idea grew from there.  From
the standpoint of the underlying physics, Tom is absolutely right -- the
purpose of a lens is to bring an image to critical focus at the focal plane,
and the nature of the sensor (film, CCD, CMOS, or other) isn't particularly
relevant.  After all, if all the light rays strike the sensor
perpendicularly, then they are necessarily parallel and thus cannot form an
image at the focal plane!

I suspect that this perpendicular-ray story -- dare I say legend? -- may
have originated from a misinterpretation of the characteristic behavior of
CCD sensors.  We all know that in single-chip color CCD sensors, some of the
pixels are sensitive to red, others to green, and still others to blue.  For
the case of color cameras with single CCD sensors, color sensitivity is
imparted to a particular pixel by incorporating a microscopic optic -- a
lenslet and filter -- in front of that pixel, which I believe is
accomplished as part of the manufacturing process for the sensor chip.  I
can imagine that the numerical aperture of this microscopic optic may not be
terribly large, and it might very well constrain the field of view of its
corresponding pixel.  Maybe someone that knows more about chip fab can
comment on this.  Anyway, although each individual pixel may very well be
looking through an optic with small numerical aperture, it's only
looking a very short distance (microns?  tenths of microns?) to the
illuminated spot on the focal plane directly in front of it.  In fact, this
is precisely what you want.  If each pixel had a more wide-angle view, it
would not only register the intensity of light directly in front of it, but
it would also register the intensity of light from a immediately adjacent
pixels (perhaps pixels intended to sense a different color), resulting in a
spatially and chromatically degraded image.  The characteristics of the
macroscopic, analog lens mounted onto the front of the camera -- focal
length, f-number, etc. -- isn't particularly relevant, except that a faster
analog lens will make each pixel-size spot of light at the focal plane
correspondingly brighter.

Jaume's original question about spectral characteristics of particular
lenses and lens coatings is interesting as well.  The general strategy in
designing the ~lens~ is, among other things, to reduce chromatic aberration;
that is, to get red, green, and blue rays from a single object point to
focus at a single point on the same focal plane.  I think lens ~coatings~
are generally optimized to match the response of the human eye, rather than
the film emulsion.  (Likewise, most film emulsions -- excluding infrared, of
course -- are designed to match the human eye.)  I believe that the general
strategy in designing antireflection coatings (like SMC) is to minimize the
reflective loss of green light, since green is the color our eyes are most
sensitive to.  This doesn't mean that the coated lens passes primarily green
light; rather, it means that for the 1% or 2% of light that would otherwise
be lost at each air-glass interface of an uncoated lens element, the lens
designers try to rescue the green component by applying a green-optimized
antireflection coating.  CCDs are more sensitive to the red end of the
spectrum than the human eye.  You might imagine that in order to maximize
the signal level at the focal plane of the CCD, a lens designer might
consider using antireflection coatings optimized for passing red light.
However, this would yield an image with what we would perceive as a highly
perturbed color balance.  In fact, for consumer imaging applications,
designers use filters that ~decrease~ the intensity of far red and near
infrared light impinging on the sensor.  Thus, I can't imagine that consumer
digital camera designers would go to the expense of new lens designs, or
bodies specific for old vs. new lenses.  (Although that would certainly be
an interesting marketing gimmick)

Just as a final aside, I'll mention a pet peeve of mine.  It seems that in
many discussions, we refer to film-based and CCD-based imaging as analog
and digital.  This is really an artificial distinction.  CCDs, after all,
~are~ analog sensors, and the readout electronics for CCDs are analog
circuits.  The only thing that makes digital cameras digital is the way
the analog signal array is stored after being read off the CCD sensor.  A
minor point, but a pet peeve nonetheless.

Bill 

Re: Battey Life

[William Kane]

Andy,

   If you want the batteries to work, then they need to be warm when
using them . . . If you want to store them over time, they will benifit
from being kept chilled, until you need to use them, at which point you
need to warm them again.

IL Bill

Andy Vu wrote:
 
 I just bought many AA batteries, and a friend told me to store it in the
 refrigerator to save battery life. But when I was in videography school,
 the professor told us to keep battery in a warm place. I am really
 confused, does anyone know?
 
 Regards,
 Andy
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RE: Old Aircraft Photography

[John Coyle]

Fred, I did my trade training in the RAF at RAF Kirton-in-Lindsey, 
which I believe was the base for the US-manned Eagle squadron during 
the war.  Our accommodation, as a result, was far superior to the 
standard of the day!
At that time (1960), many of the buildings which had been used for 
operations were still in use, although I have no idea whether the base 
still exists even.

I once had the vaguely surreal experience, whilst driving in East 
Anglia in the 1970's, of seeing a B17 in full war-paint on it's final 
approach to an airfield: sorry I can't tell you which one.  It was like 
being in a time warp...

John Coyle
Brisbane, Australia


On Tuesday, May 14, 2002 12:21 AM, Fred [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] wrote:
SNIP
  I do hope
 to eventually see some of the other remaining B-17's that are still
 around, and my ultimate dream trip (with photo gear, of course)
 would be a journey to the locations of some of the old B-17
 airfields in the UK (East Anglia area).  Most of the fields are
 gone, of course, but some vestiges apparently do remain, and I do
 have a modern book that has details on all of the fields to use as a
 reference for the research that would be necessary before the actual
 planning of such a trip.

 Fred
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Re: Winder Motor Cover for SuperProgram

[Robert Woerner]

I bought the camera used and assumed it was missing.  Thanks for the
information.

Robert
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OT: AA battery types

[Jerome Daryl Coombs-Reyes]

The recent Batter Life Question prompted me to ask the following:

I have a related question... What batteries do you use in your battery
packs? It used to be such an easy choice for me... Energizer or
Duracell... but now there's regular energizer, energizer max, energizer
titanium, energizer e^2 Photo batteries,... etc. sigh The whole thing
has left me befuddled.

I guess ultimately my question is, has anyone found that the price
difference across the different levels of AA bateries within a brand
name (and these price differences are VERY dramatic) are worth the extra
bucks? I'm very tempted to stay with just the cheapest version of each,
but not sure if I'm doing myself a disservice or if it really is just
marketing.  Moreover, my battery life has seemingly varied so much that I
cant get a handle on which is best.

If this was any other list, I'd doubt that anyone would have a definitive
answer.  but this is the PDML... home of the anal retentive (I mean that
in an endearing way) so I'm sure SOMEONE has done a definitive test on
this already... or at least has made a general assessment.  Thanks in
advance for your opinions.
   jerome
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Re: Battey Life

[Jerome Daryl Coombs-Reyes]

From the Energizer Homepage:

Keep batteries at room temperature. Heat can shorten their life and a damp
location like the refrigerator is not recommended. Also, never carry loose
batteries in your pocket or purse - contact with metal items like keys or
coins can short-circuit the battery.
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RE: Send Mz-S to Repair

[Lukasz Kacperczyk]

Didn't think of that.
Lukasz

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of Emilio Puga
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 11:16 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Send Mz-S to Repair


I think nothing for a Malasian Company, you know how well they pay their
people??¿¿.


-Mensaje original-
De: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]En nombre de Lukasz Kacperczyk
Enviado el: lunes, 13 de mayo de 2002 0:51
Para: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Asunto: RE: Send Mz-S to Repair


What's wrong with Malaysia? ;)
Lukasz

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On
Behalf Of Emilio Puga
Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2002 10:44 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: Send Mz-S to Repair


Oh, god apologise me, don´t buy a MZ-S, BUY TWO OF EM. Well, I have to
say you that mine was of the earlier series, new cameras don´t have this
problems, and believe me it´s a GREAT CAMERA, yesterday I held a Dinax 7 and
yes It looks like if it were designed by George Lucas, but doesn´t have the
finish of my beloved pentax, and one detail, one of the first things I look
when someone try to sell me a camera is to look at the bottom, and guess
what I found on Dinax/Maxxum 7??¿¿
MADE IN MALASYA Now I understand those cheap plastics.


-Mensaje original-
De: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]En nombre de David S.
Enviado el: domingo, 12 de mayo de 2002 18:35
Para: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Asunto: Re: Send Mz-S to Repair


Emilio Puga wrote:

 Hi group, few weeks ago I were asking you if someone had problems with
 Mz-S´s rewind when using Slide film, cracks and unrewound rolls, and a you
 told me that it is normal, cause mz-s´s film receptacle is a bit critical
 with film positioning, well, after two weeks of tests, and after following
 all your instrutions, I send my camera for repair to Reflecta Spain
(pentax
 distributor). The thing its that after two weeks they call me saing that
 they don´t see anithing wrong on the camera, then I asked the repair man
if
 they tried it with Slide film, and guess the answer??? -Oh, not tried with
 slide because don´t have a roll here- Ok, they will test it on monday and
 say something to me.
 Oh god everithing is happening to me, my 645n makes wrong aperture
readouts,
 my Mx´s meter is locked on the on position, my tokina 28-70 2,6 crashed ,
 uaaa what can I do?? place a candle to someone?? or maybe pay a
gipsy??


I am beginning to know what you feel like.  I have to put $2000 of repairs
into
my vehicle.  I WAS thinking of buying an MZ-S, that will be delayed now.

--
David S.
Nature and wildlife photography http://www.sheppardphotos.com
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RE: AA battery types

[TM]

I'm using pretty much only the Energizer high output 1700mAH and
Ray-O-Vac 1600 mAH NiMH rechargeables. My digicam eats through batteries
so quickly that it's not cost-effective to use anything else and I
figure
I may as well use the same for my motor drive, flash and other stuff
that
need AAs and need juice- remote controls for the TV don't count.

Otherwise, if I were using disposable batteries, I'd use Energizer
Lithium
cells for the flash and digicam, probably as well for the motor drive.

Taka
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RE: AA battery types

[Jerome Daryl Coombs-Reyes]

On Mon, 13 May 2002, TM wrote:

 I'm using pretty much only the Energizer high output 1700mAH and
 Ray-O-Vac 1600 mAH NiMH rechargeables...

Smacking self in head I use rechargeables for my cd player and havent a
clue why I never thought to do the same for my camera equipment!!!  One
problem is that after a while, it seems that the life (or rather,
turn-around time) on my rechargeables has diminished significantly; and
was already significantly shorter than nonrechargeables to begin with...
However! My rechargeables are cheap ones. Now that I think about it, i
suppose that such an investment would make plenty of sense. Even if I
bought plenty of rechargers + batteries, its still probably MUCh more
economically efficient over time.

Thanks for this (most obvious!) idea.  Smacking self in head again Much
appreciated.
 jerome
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RE: AA battery types (carrying case)

[Jerome Daryl Coombs-Reyes]

 Speaking of AAs, what do you all use to carry spare AAs,
 esp. if they're rechargeables and thus out of the box?

If you buy one of the higher end versions of some batteries [energizer
in particular], they tend to come in a plastic shell thats much more
sturdy than the plastic on other battery packages.  Once the cardboard is
stripped down and discarded, this makes for a good recycleable battery
case.
   - jerome
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Re: Battey Life

[Doug Franklin]

On Mon, 13 May 2002 20:34:58 -0400 (EDT), Jerome Daryl Coombs-Reyes
wrote:

 [...] never carry loose batteries in your pocket or purse - contact
 with metal items like keys or coins can short-circuit the battery.

When I was about 13, Dad needed batteries and flash bulbs for his
camera for christmas or a vacation or something, so we all went down to
the K-mart to get them.  Coming out of the store, I was walking beside
my dad, and noticed a brief flash of light from his pants pocket. 
About a half a second later he was dancing quite a jig on the sidewalk.
 He'd put batteries, flash bulbs, and coins all in the same pocket. :-)

TTYL, DougF KG4LMZ
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Re: LX repair

[Ann Sanfedele]

Paul Stenquist wrote:

 Hi Ann,
 I know it's less convenient, but I'd send it to Pentax Colorado. They've
 been doing good work lately, and if they do screw up they'll fix it.
 Paul

That is 3 for them.  Butch mentioned a place closer to home I might at least
call.
I'm such a terrible procrastinator about these things, pretty soon I'll be
down to one body.

thanks for the input,
ann



 Ann Sanfedele wrote:
 
  Ok, I know someone gave me some good info on this earlier and I thought
  I had saved it but... alas...
 
  I have one possible source, but would like another.  I really do need to
  get the blasted body fixed
  light meter screwed up, sticky mirror too.
 
  Best scenario - good recomendation in NYC or close.  forget PHOTO-TECH -
  they seem unable
  or unwilling to do CLA or real repairs on camera bodies of this vintage
  (20 years old).  sigh.
 
  annsan
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Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice Needed For Student

[William Robb]

- Original Message -
From: Jonathan Donald
Subject: Re: Do zooms teach visual discipline? Was: Advice
Needed For Student



The whole friggin point isn't about whether the zoom is a better
compositional tool or not. It's not about composition at all.
It's about learning how to see what light does when it hits an
object, how that gets translated into an image. This is best
learned with a 50mm lens (if we are using the 35mm format as an
example). It matches (more or less) the field of view of the
human eye, and consequently, produces a picture with a
perspective we can immediately relate to.
The idea is to learn one thing at a time, and learn it well.
First, learn what light does, that controls everything else.
Composition is secondary to this, as compositional needs will
change depending on the angle of light hitting the object.
Not my fault a bunch of idiots think this is bullshit.
People that have this figured out are better photographers.
Look back at the subject line. The word Student should say
something about where I am coming from.
You can learn what I am talking about with any lens, it doesn't
matter if you use a zoom, or a friggin fisheye.
You will learn it faster, and better with a standard focal
length prime lens, one that doesn't allow you to cheat, just
because you want the instant gratification of easy composition.
Some of this stuff is work.


Now, back to my rock.
Thanks
Bill
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