RE: The official PDMLer Christmas list
What I'm getting; 1. istDS 2. Sigma 18-50 3. Cards, reader, USB2 card What I want but know I can't get; 1. A Sleep in 2. An extra three hours added to every day 3. Cold fusion global understanding -Original Message- From: Jack Davis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, 10 December 2004 12:57 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: The official PDMLer Christmas list Re: Konica Minolta DiMAGE Scan Elite 5400 LaserSoft Imaging SilverFast Ai Color Management Software. Have read lauding things about the DiMAGE, but not on this list (I don't believe). I recall some SilverFast discussion, but wasn't able to locate it in the archives. I'd be grateful for any opinions. Thanks! Jack __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: Lenses for the istd(s)
I've been using the 14mm with good results, and have already showed some of the results, here: http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=408620 A detail is shown of the upper left corner of tree at the bottom, which shows some CA/purple fringing. I chose this photo for an example because it has high contrast in the corners, on the other photos the effect is not strong enough to be noticed. DagT fra: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED] I saw some pics posted that were made using the 14/28 lens, and they looked awful. Is anyone using this lens with good results, and can you put up a pic or two showing center and edge. I don't need to see a complete photo, but nice, representative sections would be nice, preferably unmanipulated in PS or thru a RAW converter. I realized yesterday that a PEF file can be saved, unmanipulated, as a TIF or a PSD file. Somoene here the other day ragged on the 16~45. Has anyone good things to say about this optic? Paul, were any of the PEF files you sent me made with this lens? What other good lenses are available for the istd series? Shel
Re: *istD auto focus woes
--- Kevin Waterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Every shot I take using auto focus is a little soft, regardless of the lens I use. It would seem the focus point is confused. Its not that the whole image is out of focus, simply the focal plane, with objects in the fore ground being in focus and the object that I have focused on is soft. This is most notable with faster lenses, eg: 2.8 or 1.4 Is there a cure for this or is it a trip to the repair shop with it? It is quite common that all AF cameras have some sort of AF error depends on the lenses. It is all about tolerance. However, if the same symptom occurs to all your lenses, you should have the camera checked, although there will be a good chance you would be told that the camera was working within specification. = Alan Chan http://www.pbase.com/wlachan __ Do you Yahoo!? All your favorites on one personal page Try My Yahoo! http://my.yahoo.com
RE: Lenses for the istd(s)
I have the 14mm f/2.8 and I think it produces some great images. It focusses very close, and I have printed a couple of images of fungi at A3 showing the Fly agaric toadstool and it's environment. I've also used it on my MZ-S as a test. It shows a cirular vignette with horrible distortion just inside the vignette if focussed at its minimum distance, but very little if focussed beyond 1 metre. I've even had a slide projected to 6' across at a camera club competition where the vignette suited the image, and it looked fine (the picture didn't do any good, but that wasn't down to the technical side). I'm very happy with the lens. What did you find offensive about the pictures you saw? Nick -Original Message- From: Shel Belinkoff[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 09/12/04 16:21:58 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Lenses for the istd(s) I saw some pics posted that were made using the 14/28 lens, and they looked awful. Is anyone using this lens with good results, and can you put up a pic or two showing center and edge. I don't need to see a complete photo, but nice, representative sections would be nice, preferably unmanipulated in PS or thru a RAW converter. I realized yesterday that a PEF file can be saved, unmanipulated, as a TIF or a PSD file. Somoene here the other day ragged on the 16~45. Has anyone good things to say about this optic? Paul, were any of the PEF files you sent me made with this lens? What other good lenses are available for the istd series? Shel
Re: The official PDMLer Christmas shopping list
World Peace. Happy Holidays, IL Bill On Dec 9, 2004, at 12:56 PM, Cotty wrote: On 9/12/04, Joseph Tainter, discombobulated, unleashed: 1. FA 600 f4. 2. Cotty's autograph. You're incorrigible, Tainter. Cheers, Cotty ___/\__ || (O) | People, Places, Pastiche ||=|http://www.cottysnaps.com _
Re: Fake vs Real effects
see reply to Shel. i have even older Kodak documentation not on their web site. in particular, it doesn't list a developer there anymore that is in the documentation, the Kodak 857 that was designed for 2485. according to my older documenation, it explicitly says use only 857. Herb... - Original Message - From: Rob Studdert [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 11:22 PM Subject: Re: Fake vs Real effects On 9 Dec 2004 at 21:53, Herb Chong wrote: you are remembering wrong. the normal EI of the film is twice that of 2475 and much larger in grain. it was the first widely available film that had an honest EI of 8000 and could render all steps of the Kodak grayscale test in normal contrast lighting with normal development. Not according to: http://www.kodak.com/US/en/business/aim/industrial/techPubs/ti2215/ti2215.shtml# Speed
Survey:istD reliability
One last question,i hope, foilks.:-) Of the folks on this list, or friends of folks on this list: 1- How many have bought the camera and had to return it soon after with a malfunction ie: backfocus problems,battery problems,to many hot pixels etc. I'm curious to see what the ratio might be. I know a few have complained but i think for the most part the majority have had little or no problems. Thanks for your time No obligationg Keep in mind my choice to aquire the D is for a walkaround digital,not so much for work. Dave
Re: The official PDMLer Christmas shopping list
Ok, I might just chime in... World peace Renewable energy Freedom from oppressive governments Saving of the environment Universal tolerance respect New shoes for winter :) Good light! fra
RE: Lenses for the istd(s)
Really!!! I have to give a try then Cheers Andy -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 5:37 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Lenses for the istd(s) I have seen it on the FA100 2.8 macro as well. DagT fra: Andy Chang [EMAIL PROTECTED] I've heard about the CA problem of FA24/2... Have to borrow it from my friend to give a go on the DS. Any other lenses with similar problem? Just curious... Andy -Original Message- From: Rob Studdert [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 6:52 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: Lenses for the istd(s) On 10 Dec 2004 at 0:37, Andy Chang wrote: I've got several decent primes and they all work very well on my DS and gives excellent quality pics. So I guess any of the good primes recommended on Stan's site will do a good job on the D or DS Not necessarily, CA seems to be amplified in many cases making some lenses less attractive than they were on 35mm bodies, the FA24/2 is a prime example :-) Rob Studdert HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA Tel +61-2-9554-4110 UTC(GMT) +10 Hours [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/ Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998
backfocus (was: Survey:istD reliability)
backfocus problems Could someone please explain what this means? I have a frequent problem with my D where the focus is behind what I thought I focused on. Is that backfocus? I'm currently assuming this is my fault, though I haven't had this problem with Pentax film cameras. Amy
Re: backfocus (was: Survey:istD reliability)
Thats what it is Amy. The Nikon D1 had two problems,that Nikon would not admit to, and they were backfocus and magenta cast. Someone on the D1 BB wrote a QD PS action for #2. Dave backfocus problems Could someone please explain what this means? I have a frequent problem with my D where the focus is behind what I thought I focused on. Is that backfocus? I'm currently assuming this is my fault, though I haven't had this problem with Pentax film cameras. Amy
Re: OT: Digital Lith (was Re: Fake vs Real effects)
Hi Mark, Those are some very images you've got there. itnteresting technique. Thans for posting the URL... Its on my bookmark list now. Rgds Patrick All, Well, here they are. These are architectural shots taken of a community center a couple of blocks from my house in East Sacramento. I'm going for an edgy, empty, wintery feel with these: http://www.westerickson.net/mark/misc/ClunieDoor1.jpg http://www.westerickson.net/mark/misc/ClunieDoor4.jpg http://www.westerickson.net/mark/misc/CluniePool3.jpg Here are the tech details: Images made with a Rolleiflex 3.5E (Xenotar) stopped down on a tripod with Kodak Portra 400UC. Scanned with an Epson 4870. Converted to black and white with the channel mixer (different level balances for each image). I'm using a Digital Lith technique based on the workflow described by Marco Pauck at: http://www.pauck.de/marco/photo/lith/digital_lith/digital_lith.html I'm actually getting very nice prints on my Epson R800 printer. Compared to the prints, the web images maintain some of the feel but lose a lot of the fine crispness that is maintained on paper. Comments and critiques are most welcome. I'm going to start working on another project soon and will probably use my Pentax gear for this one! --Mark
Re: Survey:istD reliability
No real problems here, even though the outside has got a few bumps and scratches after one year of use. I usually carry it in an ordinary bag without any protection. There has been one minor irritation, which is that the camera does not record the correct apertures on A lenses. 4.0 is shown as 8.0, 5.6 as 11 etc. It doesn't affect the exposures so it doesn't matter much, and the service man said they had to send it to the Netherlands if they should try to fix it. DagT fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED] One last question,i hope, foilks.:-) Of the folks on this list, or friends of folks on this list: 1- How many have bought the camera and had to return it soon after with a malfunction ie: backfocus problems,battery problems,to many hot pixels etc. I'm curious to see what the ratio might be. I know a few have complained but i think for the most part the majority have had little or no problems. Thanks for your time No obligationg Keep in mind my choice to aquire the D is for a walkaround digital,not so much for work. Dave
Re: Tablets
- Original Message - From: David Mann Subject: Re: Tablets I think I'd find a larger tablet to require too much hand movement. I just wish Wacom made a wide-aspect tablet for systems with two screens. Thats one of the nice things about the larger tablet. I have mine mapped so that my two screens are just about the full width of the tablet, and I still have plenty of working room up and down (not sure if that is considered the x or y) William Robb
AF 360 FGZ and P-TTL mechanizm
Hello, I just bought Pentax AF 360 FGZ flash for my Pentax MZ-6 camera, and I've got some quastion about it. First one (and most interesting for me) concerns to P-TTL mode. The quastion is: how the lite after pre-flash is measured? Is it measured by the sensor that measure reflected from the film lite, or is it measured by the main sensor? - My opinion is that it is measured by the main sensor. If it is true - then the new quastion arrise: How dose the camera separetes the ambient lite and lite from flash for calculating right flash impuls ammount? Second quastion is about P-TTL mode with the wireless mode. The quastion is about how camera controls flash ammount (using built-in flash)? Dose it use built in flash to transfer the nessessary information or dose it uses some kind of radio relays? (Such relays should be present because of the existence of different channels on camera and flash). If such channels present then why camera gives the commands to the flash by the pulses of bilt-in flash??? Why just not to transfer the information by radio if it already used for some purposes (instead of built in flash)? This is one of the most confusing me. Third quastion is about M (manual) mode on the camera. Is it ok to use manual mode on the camera together with the flash (on camera and wireless)? Dose any one have the expierence with this? (i.e. I have 50mm lense. When using A mode (aperture priority) then camera always set the expose time to 45, and I whant to use, say 90 with the same value of apperture (say 8.0) - then I can switch to M mode - and set all parameters as I need (90/8.0) - will flash operates ok under such conditions?) (If I switch to shurter speed priority and set 90, camera will always set the minimum diaphragm (when the lite is not enough, say in the room in the evening)). -- Best regards, dao mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Lenses for the istd(s)
dcn A detail is shown of the upper left corner of tree at the dcn bottom, which shows some CA/purple fringing. I chose this photo dcn for an example because it has high contrast in the corners, on dcn the other photos the effect is not strong enough to be noticed. It doesn't look so bad. This wouldn't probably be CA, because it lacks the complementary colour on the other edge of the highlight. It seems the purple fringing has more to do with blooming of the sensor and flare from strong sharp highlights. At least that's my simple, untechnical understanding of the matter. The image of the playground, it shows that the lens is quite well resistant to flare. The glowing overcast sky would be a problem for many lenses. At least from experience, the Sigma 14mm 2.8 would have some problems here. Good light! fra
Re: PESO: President of Poland State visit
Cotty wrote on 09.12.04 19:55: Good job Fra - I like numbers 2 and 8. Just Good job? Nah, I thought your comment would be rather Sheesh.. yet another Pole here... :-P -- Best Regards Sylwek
Re: AF 360 FGZ and P-TTL mechanizm
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote on 10.12.04 15:09: If it is true - then the new quastion arrise: How dose the camera separetes the ambient lite and lite from flash for calculating right flash impuls ammount? Well, main sensor meters available light all the time - just before metering pre-flash... Second quastion is about P-TTL mode with the wireless mode. The quastion is about how camera controls flash ammount (using built-in flash)? Dose it use built in flash to transfer the nessessary information or dose it uses some kind of radio relays? (Such relays should be present because of the existence of different channels on camera and flash). If such channels present then why camera gives the commands to the flash by the pulses of bilt-in flash??? Why just not to transfer the information by radio if it already used for some purposes (instead of built in flash)? This is one of the most confusing me. The sequence looks like this: - cmaera sends a command to external flash to fire metering pre-flash - AF360 fires metering pre flash - camera meters it and sends another command to AF360 with required power (duration) - AF360 fires main flash Third quastion is about M (manual) mode on the camera. Is it ok to use manual mode on the camera together with the flash (on camera and wireless)? Dose any one have the expierence with this? (i.e. I have 50mm lense. When using A mode (aperture priority) then camera always set the expose time to 45, and I whant to use, say 90 with the same value of apperture (say 8.0) - then I can switch to M mode - and set all parameters as I need (90/8.0) - will flash operates ok under such conditions?) (If I switch to shurter speed priority and set 90, camera will always set the minimum diaphragm (when the lite is not enough, say in the room in the evening)). M mode is very useful with flash - you can easily see what level of background exposure will be in final photo - you can control this by looking and checking exposure bar graph and changing either shutter speed or aperture (camera will change power of the flash to compensate for changes of aperture). HTH. -- Best Regards Sylwek
Re[2]: AF 360 FGZ and P-TTL mechanizm
Hello Sylwester, Friday, December 10, 2004, 4:27:16 PM, you wrote: ... If such channels present then why camera gives the commands to the flash by the pulses of bilt-in flash??? Why just not to transfer the information by radio if it already used for some purposes (instead of built in flash)? This is one of the most confusing me. SP The sequence looks like this: SP - cmaera sends a command to external flash to fire metering pre-flash SP - AF360 fires metering pre flash SP - camera meters it and sends another command to AF360 with required power SP (duration) SP - AF360 fires main flash I know about this, but the quastion is why to use built-in flash to send all this commands and information? Why not to use radio for this? -- Best regards, daomailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Re[2]: AF 360 FGZ and P-TTL mechanizm
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote on 10.12.04 15:37: I know about this, but the quastion is why to use built-in flash to send all this commands and information? Why not to use radio for this? Ask Pentax Japan :-) But I guess - costs, right now you don't have to have radio transmitter buil-in do you? What's more some people are not interested in wireless lighting at all and wouldn't like to pay more for something that they completeley don't want :-) -- Best Regards Sylwek
Re: The official PDMLer Christmas shopping list
1. to get replacement D with 0 hot pixels at 1/6 2. not to have backfocus problems 3. not to have any new problems 4. external flash with AF assist that works great in low light 5. 2 gb of compactflash memory 6. enough money not to have to work every day, not too much, just enough.
Re: The official PDMLer Christmas shopping list
David Zaninovic wrote on 10.12.04 15:44: 6. enough money not to have to work every day, not too much, just enough. It's never enough ;-) -- Best Regards Sylwek
Re: PESO An example of when grain isn't good
Rob Studdert wrote on 10.12.04 1:45: I promise this will be my last one for at least a week :-) This image highlights the potential zero-grain advantage of a DSLR in small format macro photography (warning bug (Dolichopodid), about 5.5mm tip to tail): http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~distudio/temp/IMGP9046.jpg [...] Awful! Fly of course :-) The photo itself is great! Is it a leaf that the fly is sitting on? Abyway it nicely blurred into homogenous green surface, which became a perfect background for mostly greenish body of the fly. Great job! With naked eye we don't even know how strange and scary little creatures around us can be :-) -- Best Regards Sylwek
Re: Survey:istD reliability
Returned it because of 15 hot pixels on 1/6 at iso200. - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 2:49 AM Subject: Survey:istD reliability One last question,i hope, foilks.:-) Of the folks on this list, or friends of folks on this list: 1- How many have bought the camera and had to return it soon after with a malfunction ie: backfocus problems,battery problems,to many hot pixels etc. I'm curious to see what the ratio might be. I know a few have complained but i think for the most part the majority have had little or no problems. Thanks for your time No obligationg Keep in mind my choice to aquire the D is for a walkaround digital,not so much for work. Dave
raw wb exposure per channel
Hi, sometimes, I have a digital photograph in raw format, shot in available dark mode, which when white balanced for good colour (especially under heavy tungsten or fluorescent light) shows severe noise in the other channels. That's understandable, if I wanted best colour, I would use CC filter over the lens in the first place (but remember, I am in abysmally dark mode and CC filters eat lotsa light). The whitebalancing needs to be done, as otherwise the fluorescent colours are ugly. But at the same time, exposure of e.g. face is quite lower (because the software substracted the ugly green cast, now there is less exposure on it). When I put it back up, of course, noise grows a lot. What I am thinking about, is there a way to white balance a picture to good colour, and than add to the luminance the light from the other channels? For example, I have a singer shot under heavy red spotlight. I want to put the red a bit, because it's simply too much (but not reduce it completely, it's after all an artistic lighting). But that makes him darker (because the major element of the luminance was the red channel). Could I for example add the red channel (possibly masked) from an unbalanced RAW conversion to the whitebalanced raw conversion with some mode to add to the luminance only? This would help with the noise issues as well, and the image would still be balanced. An equivalent of what PS CS supposedly do with lost highlights, you can put them back (but gray only), because it uses luminance from the other not-so-much lost channels. I would like something similar to do to the shadows. Good light! fra
Re: AF 360 FGZ and P-TTL mechanizm
information or dose it uses some kind of radio relays? (Such relays should be present because of the existence of different channels on AFAIK, none of the wireless flash system from Pentax, Nikon, Canon or Minolta (and Metz of course) use radio waves. They all depend on coded bursts of the RTF (retractable flash) or a controller flash in the hotshoe. It's a cheaper solution probably. There is a 3rd party radio waves flash system which supposedly even works with TTL, made by PocketWizard. How can there be several channels - it's just different coding of the flash bursts. It's probably a digital, binary communication. Good light! fra
Re: Re[2]: AF 360 FGZ and P-TTL mechanizm
- Original Message - From: Sylwester Pietrzyk Subject: Re: Re[2]: AF 360 FGZ and P-TTL mechanizm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote on 10.12.04 15:37: I know about this, but the quastion is why to use built-in flash to send all this commands and information? Why not to use radio for this? Ask Pentax Japan :-) But I guess - costs, right now you don't have to have radio transmitter buil-in do you? What's more some people are not interested in wireless lighting at all and wouldn't like to pay more for something that they completeley don't want :-) I don't know about the rest of the world, but here in North America, radio is pretty heavily regulated. To use a radio signal, they would have to have permission to be broadcasting a radio signal, and it would have to be broadcast within a very specific frequency range. It would also limit, even more, the places where you would be able to take pictures, since there are a lot of places (hospitals come to mind) that don't permit electromagnetic broadcast for various reasons. I expect that for this application, it just isn't worth the effort of jumping all hoops of the various governmental regulations to make it economically viable. William Robb
Minolta lenses...
Hello to all! My father has recently purchased a used Minolta Maxxum 5000 AF to replace many functions he uses his K1000 for (the auto focus now appeals to him as he gets numb fingers). I am wondering if anyone on this list has any available lenses for sale since the camera came with a lens that is not functioning properly (grinding noise and no motion when trying to auto focus). He would prefer something with a zoom like 70-210 or similar (anything decent for birding photography), but they are on a tight budget so it would need to be affordable. I looked on ebay (keyword Maxxum lens) and am not seeing anything like that. Thanks for any help, advice, etc. If you don't have a lens but know where I could get one, that would be great as well! Have a wonderful day... Jay
Re: Survey:istD reliability
Dave, I have two *istD's, purchased about 6 months apart. First was purchased from the local camera store, second from Adorama. Neither has had any problems to speak of and I have shot about 15,000 frames between them. -- Best regards, Bruce Thursday, December 9, 2004, 3:49:35 PM, you wrote: bcin One last question,i hope, foilks.:-) bcin Of the folks on this list, or friends of folks on this list: bcin 1- How many have bought the camera and had to return it bcin soon after with a malfunction ie: bcin backfocus bcin problems,battery problems,to many hot pixels etc. bcin I'm curious to see what the ratio might be. I know a few bcin have complained but i think for bcin the most part bcin the majority have had little or no problems. bcin Thanks for your time bcin No obligationg bcin Keep in mind my choice to aquire the D is for a bcin walkaround digital,not so much for work. bcin Dave
Re: AF 360 FGZ and P-TTL mechanizm
[EMAIL PROTECTED] a écrit : Hello, I just bought Pentax AF 360 FGZ flash for my Pentax MZ-6 camera, and I've got some quastion about it. First one (and most interesting for me) concerns to P-TTL mode. The quastion is: how the lite after pre-flash is measured? Is it measured by the sensor that measure reflected from the film lite, or is it measured by the main sensor? - My opinion is that it is measured by the main sensor. If it is true - then the new quastion arrise: How dose the camera separetes the ambient lite and lite from flash for calculating right flash impuls ammount? Second quastion is about P-TTL mode with the wireless mode. The quastion is about how camera controls flash ammount (using built-in flash)? Dose it use built in flash to transfer the nessessary information or dose it uses some kind of radio relays? (Such relays should be present because of the existence of different channels on camera and flash). If such channels present then why camera gives the commands to the flash by the pulses of bilt-in flash??? Why just not to transfer the information by radio if it already used for some purposes (instead of built in flash)? This is one of the most confusing me. See explanation for wireless sequence on owner manual p. 37 No radio, only flashes for transmission body - flash Third quastion is about M (manual) mode on the camera. Is it ok to use manual mode on the camera together with the flash (on camera and wireless)? Dose any one have the expierence with this? (i.e. I have 50mm lense. When using A mode (aperture priority) then camera always set the expose time to 45, and I whant to use, say 90 with the same value of apperture (say 8.0) - then I can switch to M mode - and set all parameters as I need (90/8.0) - will flash operates ok under such conditions?) (If I switch to shurter speed priority and set 90, camera will always set the minimum diaphragm (when the lite is not enough, say in the room in the evening)).
FS Friday: SMC Pentax-A 28-135 1:4 zoom and other stuff
Hi PDML, Up for sale is quite rare lens, SMC-A 28-135/4 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=3858126511 Auction ends tomorrow. Other items for sale: - SMC K 28/3.5, - SMC-A 35-105/3.5, - P3 body, - K1000 (non-working meter) + SMC-M 55/2 - original Pentax manual macro extension tubes All list is here: http://cgi6.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItemsuserid=dojarek PayPal, money orders. Worldwide shipping. Best regards Jerry
Re: Re[4]: Happy Hannukah
Thanks for posting that, Lasse. I was concerned that the discussion was going to get heated and I think your post put an end to that. Shel [Original Message] From: Lasse Karlsson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 12/9/2004 2:14:29 PM Subject: Re: Re[4]: Happy Hannukah From: Boris Liberman [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 5:48 PM Subject: Re[4]: Happy Hannukah Hi! Being Jewish means belonging to certain nationality, WR hmmm. I know several Canadian citizens who are Jewish. WR Are they misunderstanding? Bill, could be I used the wrong term. Not necessarily, Boris. Your statement Being Jewish means belonging to certain nationality makes perfect sense to me. Historically the terms nation and nationality has had a dual meaning, either referring to citizens of certains nations (meaning modern states as we know them), or referring to of a (certain) nation as in belonging to a certain people as manifested and defined by the people in question themselves. That's why a Jew, a Curd, a Romani(?), an Armenian, or for that matter any person or group of people who define themselves as belonging to a certain group, tribe etc. of people correctly, can be described as of a certain nation or nationality, regardless of what particular state citizenship they may be holding. That's why Boris, or any other Jew in diaspora if he or she so wishes, correctly (although maybe less commonly today) very well can be defined as a person of Jewish nationality, meaning someone who belongs to (and is accepted/regarded by the people themselves as amember of ) a certain people according to their own criteria for it.
FS: SMC Pentax K 24mm f/2.8, Tamron Adaptall 24mm f/2.5, EX+
For sale: Pentax SMC K 24mm f/2.8 lens. Excellent plus, really beautiful and hardly used condition. One of the (many) really nice primes of the original K series! See its specs on Boz's site at: http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/lenses/primes/ultra-wide/K24f2.8.html $175 includes Priority Mail shipping in the continental U.S., postage is additional to other areas. Photos available on request. Also still available (for a less expensive 24mm prime lens): Tamron Adaptall II 24mm f/2.5 lens, 55mm filter size. Purchased from KEH in EX+ condition in July. Lens is extremely clean and clear. Dust specks in photos are only on the exterior. This is a nicely made lens with very good build quality and very good manual focus feel that is a fine-performing, more-affordable substitute for a genuine Pentax 24mm lens. Lens includes front and rear (Adaptall) caps. Add a screwmount, ES/ESII screwmount, K, or KA Adaptall adapter to this lens for full functionality on any Pentax camera! $110 including shipping in the continental U.S., a bit more to other areas. http://homepage.mac.com/wilensky/eBay/Tamron_front.jpg http://homepage.mac.com/wilensky/eBay/Tamron_side.jpg http://homepage.mac.com/wilensky/eBay/Tamron_rear.jpg Joe
Re: Minolta lenses...
Jason Randolph wrote: He would prefer something with a zoom like 70-210 or similar (anything decent for birding photography), but they are on a tight budget so it would need to be affordable. I looked on ebay (keyword Maxxum lens) and am not seeing anything like that. The best value for money in this focal lengths range is 70-210/4. (not 4.5-5.6) Look here: http://tinyurl.com/6skow Also 50/1.7 (and other primes, probably) and 24-50/4 Jerry
Re: The official PDMLer Christmas shopping list
My wish list: + Good light, to make the best outdoor images I can, with the Pentax equipment I have. + Time to take superior images. Kenneth Waller -Original Message- From: David Mann [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Dec 10, 2004 12:59 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: The official PDMLer Christmas shopping list I might as well join in... in no particular order: PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com
Re: Survey:istD reliability
I've had my istD for about 7 months. Taken about 2000 images with it in temps ranging from 95 to around 20 degree F, in snow, sleet rain. So far - no malfunctions at all, some problems with my ignorance though. I have no reason to suspect it won't perform as well as the other 6 Pentax bodies I've used over the last 36 years. Kenneth Waller -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Dec 10, 2004 2:49 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Survey:istD reliability One last question,i hope, foilks.:-) Of the folks on this list, or friends of folks on this list: 1- How many have bought the camera and had to return it soon after with a malfunction ie: backfocus problems,battery problems,to many hot pixels etc. I'm curious to see what the ratio might be. I know a few have complained but i think for the most part the majority have had little or no problems. Thanks for your time No obligationg Keep in mind my choice to aquire the D is for a walkaround digital,not so much for work. Dave PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com
RE: Survey:istD reliability
Dave Brooks wrote: One last question,i hope, foilks.:-) Of the folks on this list, or friends of folks on this list: 1- How many have bought the camera and had to return it soon after with a malfunction ie: backfocus problems,battery problems,to many hot pixels etc. I'm curious to see what the ratio might be. I know a few have complained but i think for the most part the majority have had little or no problems. Thanks for your time No obligationg Keep in mind my choice to aquire the D is for a walkaround digital,not so much for work. Approx 3000 images in over a year. Mainly used by my wife, in an often rushed and indelicate manner, purely by the nature of the use she has for it. Faultless performance. Everything has exceeded my expectations of quality and durability - battery life also impressive between charges. Typical Pentax; quality product with near non-existent marketing and rare product availability off the shelf. Shame. Malcolm
Re: The official PDMLer Christmas shopping list
If it's on the 600, it sure is. Kenneth Waller -Original Message- From: Peter J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Dec 10, 2004 12:16 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: The official PDMLer Christmas shopping list Must be one heavy autograph. Kenneth Waller wrote: 1A. A sherpa to carry it Kenneth Waller -Original Message- From: Joseph Tainter [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Dec 9, 2004 11:13 AM To: pdml [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: The official PDMLer Christmas shopping list 1. FA 600 f4. 2. Cotty's autograph. Joe PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com -- I can understand why mankind hasn't given up war. During a war you get to drive tanks through the sides of buildings and shoot foreigners - two things that are usually frowned on during peacetime. --P.J. O'Rourke PeoplePC Online A better way to Internet http://www.peoplepc.com
Re: backfocus (was: Survey:istD reliability)
Yes, remember most passive focusing cameras focus on maximum contrast. That is a zone not an exact plane. That explains why autofocus is almost useless with the lens stopped down even if it was sensitive enough to focus. But your eye does the same thing to a lessor extent. You may remember that I have previously posted that it is best if you accept the first apparent focus when focusing manually rather than rocking the focus back and forth trying to get it just right. Now if you had a laser rangfinder it would focus at the exact distance. graywolf http://www.graywolfphoto.com Idiot Proof == Expert Proof --- Don Sanderson wrote: Tom, do you mean by this that the camera will put the subject you focused on *somewhere* within the DOF and consider it OK? In other words focusing on the same suject three times may yield three different results. If the camera was already in focus on the first, had to shorten focus on the second and lengtnen focus on the third, this would place the plane of focus at three different points within the DOF. Am I getting this? It would explain the odd behavior with short FL lenses. Don -Original Message- From: Graywolf [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 10:36 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: backfocus (was: Survey:istD reliability) No Amy, backfocus is the distance from the lens to the film or sensor, just as focus is the distance from the lens to the subject. What you are talking about is misfocusing. If it is consistent as you indicate it probably is a problem with the camera. However before sending it in for service, check that it happens with all of your lenses. And make sure you are putting the proper focus point on the part of the subject where you want he camera to focus on. I presume you are taking about autofocus which brings up the idea that you should check and see if it does it when you focus manually. If it happens with manual focus too, it indicates that the focusing screen or the sensor is probably not in the correct position, definitely a camera problem. You should know however the autofocus can only focus within the Depth of Field of the lens, which is something folks generally do not realize. That means your focus can be off quite a bit compared to measured distances and still be as accurate as the system is capable of especially with shorter lenses. graywolf http://www.graywolfphoto.com Idiot Proof == Expert Proof --- Amy Hughes wrote: backfocus problems Could someone please explain what this means? I have a frequent problem with my D where the focus is behind what I thought I focused on. Is that backfocus? I'm currently assuming this is my fault, though I haven't had this problem with Pentax film cameras. Amy
Re: backfocus (was: Survey:istD reliability)
Interesting. In theory the DOF is about 1/3 in front of the object and 2/3's behind it which looks about what you are getting. BUT at macro distances, which this photo is, it is supposed to be about 50/50. Obviously you are not getting a 50/50 DOF in this photo. It may simply be the design of the lens. Is is an internal focus macro by any chance? Those focus by zooming and do not work exactly like a normal lens. I do not think from what I am seeing that there is a problem with your lens or camera. It is just a need to use a little more advanced focusing technique than you currently are. What I would suggest is try to focus at the farthest point you want sharp then focus at the nearest noting the distance in both cases, then set the focus by the scale at the point 1/3 of the way past the near point. Try that and see if it works for you. If you have a decent DOF scale on the lens you can set the f-stop so that the near and far point are the the ones you selected. Of course as you already know you are not going to have a lot of DOF at the distance you are shooting so you have make the best of it you can. graywolf http://www.graywolfphoto.com Idiot Proof == Expert Proof --- Amy Hughes wrote: Amy, what focusing mode are you using? I'm having this problem with manual focus, hence my temptation to believe it's my fault. I don't know if it's also a problem with autofocus because I don't use autofocus. What I am finding fairly often is that the acceptable focus covers from the point I focus and a bit beyond, when what I'd expect it to cover is the point I focus plus/minus. Here's an example, though it'll be difficult to judge after resizing/compressing... http://www.amyhughes.org/lego/conventions/IceCreamShop/IMGP0351sm.jpg I was focusing on the front of the building, right under the awning. It's pretty well focused front to back, all along the side, but the figure standing right in front of it isn't. The guy in the blue overalls is in focus, the guy in red isn't. To test if I was still capable of focusing a camera I shot a narrow DOF picture of a piece of graph paper on an angle, and the line I focused on was properly focused. So I'm capable and the camera is capable, but I haven't figured out why so many of my shots aren't properly focused. When I shot jewelry the fabric I used as a backdrop was perfectly focused and the piece I was shooting wasn't. Repeatedly. Amy
Re: backfocus (was: Survey:istD reliability)
From: Amy Hughes [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 8:28 PM Subject: Re: backfocus (was: Survey:istD reliability) Amy, what focusing mode are you using? I'm having this problem with manual focus, hence my temptation to believe it's my fault. I don't know if it's also a problem with autofocus because I don't use autofocus. What I am finding fairly often is that the acceptable focus covers from the point I focus and a bit beyond, when what I'd expect it to cover is the point I focus plus/minus. Here's an example, though it'll be difficult to judge after resizing/compressing... http://www.amyhughes.org/lego/conventions/IceCreamShop/IMGP0351sm.jpg I was focusing on the front of the building, right under the awning. It's pretty well focused front to back, all along the side, but the figure standing right in front of it isn't. The guy in the blue overalls is in focus, the guy in red isn't. I don't know if I've misssed something here, but to me it simply looks like you've been using too wide an aperture, and really can't expect the objects mentioned close to you to be in focus. You may simply have to stop down a few more stops, if possible. (Generally there is a narrower area of focus in front of the selected point of focus than behind it, why you'd want to focus on the nearest subject that you want to be in perfect focus.) As far as I can see, the wall which you focused on is in perfect focus, why the camera seems to me to be working correctly. To test if I was still capable of focusing a camera I shot a narrow DOF picture of a piece of graph paper on an angle, and the line I focused on was properly focused. So I'm capable and the camera is capable, but I haven't figured out why so many of my shots aren't properly focused. When I shot jewelry the fabric I used as a backdrop was perfectly focused and the piece I was shooting wasn't. Repeatedly. I don't know the distances to, or the sizes of, the jewelry pieces you shot. Your problem could be that for some reason the camera used a focus point that you were not being aware of (if in autofocus mode). When shooting at close distances the DOF gets (relatively) narrower than you'd may think, and you will have to stop down. This is a particular problem when shooting macro for instance. I'd suggest you'd do some very systematic tests. For instance you could shoot a line of nails upright at a distance of say a feet apart in a piece of wood (maybe numbered by some sort of stick on pieces of paper). If you got any you could also place one of those measure (what are they called - indicating inches, feet or centimeters and meters) alongside it slightly tilted to your shooting angle so that the numbers will be clearly visible. Pick an aperture, let's say you start at 22 (and the next round you open up two stops etc), and carefully focus in on the first nail (nearest to you). Repeat this for each nail. Than pick another aperture and repeat the process. Evaluate your results. If need be post the results and I think we will be able to tell what it is that's not working right for you. Good luck, Amy. Lasse Amy
Re: Minolta lenses...
Quoting Jason Randolph [EMAIL PROTECTED]: My father has recently purchased a used Minolta Maxxum 5000 AF to replace many functions he uses his K1000 for (the auto focus now appeals to him as he gets numb fingers). I am wondering if anyone on this list has any available lenses for sale since the camera came with a lens that is not functioning properly (grinding noise and no motion when trying to auto focus). He would prefer something with a zoom like 70-210 or similar (anything decent for birding photography), but they are on a tight budget so it would need to be affordable. I looked on ebay (keyword Maxxum lens) and am not seeing anything like that. Thanks for any help, advice, etc. If you don't have a lens but know where I could get one, that would be great as well! I don't know much about Minoltas, but have you also checked KEH? (www.keh.com) That's where I buy all my used gear these days. You mentioned a 70-210 and they're listing quite a few of them at the moment. Of course I also don't know exactly what range of dollars you mean by affordable, but you might find it worth a look. HTH. ERNR
Re: Survey:istD reliability
Quoting Jostein [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Well to get a ratio, you'd need response from those who haven't had problems as well, I suppose? That's where my *istD is. No issues at all. I thought I might have some issues, although most of them seem to be disappearing as I get more used to the camera -- so perhaps it just has a steeper learning curve than I'd thought. Anyway to answer your exact question, I bought an *istD and have NOT returned it. ERNR
Ist D deal at Blacks
I just recently purchased an Ist D at Blacks in Canada. 1699.00 body only. Today Blacks lowered the price an additional $300.00 to 1399.00 Cdn. Body only. I, of course, got the credit. Anyone looking for an incredible price on the ist D might want to move quickly... Vic
Re: backfocus (was: Survey:istD reliability)
Amy, what focusing mode are you using? I'm having this problem with manual focus, hence my temptation to believe it's my fault. I don't know if it's also a problem with autofocus because I don't use autofocus. What I am finding fairly often is that the acceptable focus covers from the point I focus and a bit beyond, when what I'd expect it to cover is the point I focus plus/minus. Here's an example, though it'll be difficult to judge after resizing/compressing... http://www.amyhughes.org/lego/conventions/IceCreamShop/IMGP0351sm.jpg I was focusing on the front of the building, right under the awning. It's pretty well focused front to back, all along the side, but the figure standing right in front of it isn't. The guy in the blue overalls is in focus, the guy in red isn't. To test if I was still capable of focusing a camera I shot a narrow DOF picture of a piece of graph paper on an angle, and the line I focused on was properly focused. So I'm capable and the camera is capable, but I haven't figured out why so many of my shots aren't properly focused. When I shot jewelry the fabric I used as a backdrop was perfectly focused and the piece I was shooting wasn't. Repeatedly. Amy
Anyone ever heard of Owen lenses?
Just browsing through the old junk cabinets at the store today and I came across an intriguing item: A 40-85 f/3.5 zoom labeled Owen Auto MC 40-85/3.5 Made in Japan. It's in Minolta mount, so it's really of no value to me but I'm just curious. The machining of the metalwork and the construction in general are magnificent. Don't know about the optics... -- Mark Roberts Photography and writing www.robertstech.com
Re: Ist D deal at Blacks
I've been noticing that the *ist-D seems to be disappearing. Could this mean that the next Pentax DSLR is soon to be announced ? Patrick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I just recently purchased an Ist D at Blacks in Canada. 1699.00 body only. Today Blacks lowered the price an additional $300.00 to 1399.00 Cdn. Body only. I, of course, got the credit. Anyone looking for an incredible price on the ist D might want to move quickly... Vic
Re: Anyone ever heard of Owen lenses?
No, but I've heard of owen the credit card company a lot 'o money because of lenses! On 12/10/04 11:54, Mark Roberts wrote: Just browsing through the old junk cabinets at the store today and I came across an intriguing item: A 40-85 f/3.5 zoom labeled Owen Auto MC 40-85/3.5 Made in Japan. It's in Minolta mount, so it's really of no value to me but I'm just curious. The machining of the metalwork and the construction in general are magnificent. Don't know about the optics...
Help w/ portrait of person w/ large head
Does anyone have any suggestions for taking a portrait for someone with a fairly large head? This man is tall, around 6' 5. He needs a head shot only for his work. What kind of angle should I shoot at? Any other creative ideas??? Maybe someone has some sample photos they have taken of someone with a similar feature? TIA, Steve __ Do you Yahoo!? All your favorites on one personal page Try My Yahoo! http://my.yahoo.com
Re: Survey:istD reliability
Hi, Jostein wrote: Well to get a ratio, you'd need response from those who haven't had problems as well, I suppose? That's where my *istD is. No issues at all. Did you sort out the CA issue? mike
Re: Ist D deal at Blacks
I was told that they do not have stock of the istD. They have stock of the Ds,but it seems only a few stores have the D in stock. I am expecting one at a local Blacks any day now.The CS people gave me a list of the stores that had stock so i could let the sales people know were to look,and there was only 3 at the time. Vic probably took number 3 i'll take number 2. BTW i found it funny i had to supply them with the item number from the website,as the clerk could not find it in the computer.LOL Dave I've been noticing that the *ist-D seems to be disappearing. Could this mean that the next Pentax DSLR is soon to be announced ? Patrick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I just recently purchased an Ist D at Blacks in Canada. 1699.00 body only. Today Blacks lowered the price an additional $300.00 to 1399.00 Cdn. Body only. I, of course, got the credit. Anyone looking for an incredible price on the ist D might want to move quickly... Vic
Re: Survey:istD reliability
This one time, at band camp, Jostein [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well to get a ratio, you'd need response from those who haven't had problems as well, I suppose? That's where my *istD is. No issues at all. My *istD has had no problems to speak of. Have put through about 20k images. Kevin -- Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.
Re: Sorry folks (Merry Christmas Doug)
Bill Owens wrote: Another senior moment when I attached the file instead of just sending the link, It appears that one of Doug's spiffing scripts stopped it getting anywhere near us. For that, and the other bits of work he has done to make this list an excellent forum to grumble, abuse and otherwise vilify each other, [8-)] my special Christmas greetings go out to him. Mwa! mike
Re: my first PESO
Jon, Brave of you to put the work up. You may be kidding, but I think we all know such fright and hope at the same time. Grading on the curve, I'd have to pick #2. I believe it has a bit of artistic edge due to the light reflections falling in a larger, people free, expanse. It has an 'alone' feel about it. I like where you placed the lighted stands and how you've allowed positioning space around them so the viewer is free to follow their reflections. If you could have moved a little to your right, you might have marginalized that dark something with rails or pipes or something protruding at its right edge. I'm curious as to what it is, but it isn't an intriguing element. The fact that you saw 'something' in the scene leads me to encourage you to keep looking and reacting to possibilities. Jack --- Jon Glass [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: and boy am I nervous. ;-) Actually, the photos from the market in Prague got me thinking about some photos I took a few weeks ago in Krakow's main market square. I went there to shoot photos of the St. Mary's Church there, but the umbrellas intrigued me. I shot a bunch, and these are the ones that turned out, more or less... My problem is that I'm not as happy as I thought I would be with them, and more so, cannot decide which I like best, so, after the recent discussion, I thought I would post them all, and ask for advice. What could I have done better? Did I try to get too much? too little? Part of what happened was that visibility wasn't very great, so it was difficult to compose, but that's no excuse. :-) Fire away! oh, the url: http://homepage.mac.com/jonglass/rynek/index.html -- -Jon Glass Krakow, Poland [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Do you Yahoo!? The all-new My Yahoo! - What will yours do? http://my.yahoo.com
my first PESO
(second try...) and boy am I nervous. ;-) Actually, the photos from the market in Prague got me thinking about some photos I took a few weeks ago in Krakow's main market square. I went there to shoot photos of the St. Mary's Church there, but the umbrellas intrigued me. I shot a bunch, and these are the ones that turned out, more or less... My problem is that I'm not as happy as I thought I would be with them, and more so, cannot decide which I like best, so, after the recent discussion, I thought I would post them all, and ask for advice. What could I have done better? Did I try to get too much? too little? Part of what happened was that visibility wasn't very great, so it was difficult to compose, but that's no excuse. :-) Fire away! oh, the url: http://homepage.mac.com/jonglass/rynek/index.html -- -Jon Glass Krakow, Poland [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Survey:istD reliability
- Original Message - From: mike wilson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Did you sort out the CA issue? Well that's more of a lens issue, isn't it... :-) Jostein
Re: Survey:istD reliability
- Original Message - From: Kevin Waterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] My *istD has had no problems to speak of. Have put through about 20k images. Impressive...:-) I've done only 3800 in a year... Jostein
D and compactflash
What CompactFlash size is supported by D ? Manual have only 1GB cards mentioned. Will I see any benefit from 80x speed or 40x is enough to saturate D data bus.
Re: my first PESO
I like numbers three and six very much. They're simple and graphic. The extensive foreground is interesting. The color is nice. I found them quite pleasing. Paul --- Jon Glass [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: and boy am I nervous. ;-) Actually, the photos from the market in Prague got me thinking about some photos I took a few weeks ago in Krakow's main market square. I went there to shoot photos of the St. Mary's Church there, but the umbrellas intrigued me. I shot a bunch, and these are the ones that turned out, more or less... My problem is that I'm not as happy as I thought I would be with them, and more so, cannot decide which I like best, so, after the recent discussion, I thought I would post them all, and ask for advice. What could I have done better? Did I try to get too much? too little? Part of what happened was that visibility wasn't very great, so it was difficult to compose, but that's no excuse. :-) Fire away! oh, the url: http://homepage.mac.com/jonglass/rynek/index.html -- -Jon Glass Krakow, Poland [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Do you Yahoo!? The all-new My Yahoo! - What will yours do? http://my.yahoo.com
Re: Help w/ portrait of person w/ large head
Another advantage of using a long focal length is the smaller view angle. You'll capture less of a noisy background (such as tree branches) providing a simpler final image. The viewer's eye will stay on the main subject and won't get distracted by irrelevant data in the background. Tim On 12/10/04 13:00, Fred wrote: Not that I shoot glamor photography (g), but, when outdoors, I generally like to use a long lens for portraits. Not only does doing so make for pleasing enough (to me) facial features (although some might argue that a moderate telephoto makes for more natural features), but using a long lens (more importantly) also helps make for more candid portraits (since the subject is generally much less aware of being photographed). Most often I'd be using a 100-300/4, a 300/4, or a 300/4.5 (typically at about f/8, if I can get enough light).
RE: my first PESO
I like #1, the windows above intrigue me. I also like the splashes of color in #4 and #5. #9 is interesting, without any context it would be rather mysterious. A little work on the lighting in photoshop would work wonders, there's some very nice stuff here. Keep it up, maybe you'll get me to stop being so shy about posting my pics. (About the ONLY thing I'm shy about!) ;-) Don -Original Message- From: Jon Glass [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 1:53 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: my first PESO and boy am I nervous. ;-) Actually, the photos from the market in Prague got me thinking about some photos I took a few weeks ago in Krakow's main market square. I went there to shoot photos of the St. Mary's Church there, but the umbrellas intrigued me. I shot a bunch, and these are the ones that turned out, more or less... My problem is that I'm not as happy as I thought I would be with them, and more so, cannot decide which I like best, so, after the recent discussion, I thought I would post them all, and ask for advice. What could I have done better? Did I try to get too much? too little? Part of what happened was that visibility wasn't very great, so it was difficult to compose, but that's no excuse. :-) Fire away! oh, the url: http://homepage.mac.com/jonglass/rynek/index.html -- -Jon Glass Krakow, Poland [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: Help w/ portrait of person w/ large head
Using the istD, I might consider a 200mm lens, which would give me an effective focal length of 300mm. What are peoples' opinions of the SMC-A 200mm lens? My only somewhat long tele lens is the 120 f/2.8, which I think I will give a try for this gentleman. Thanks for all the suggestions! Keep 'em coming... --- Tim Sherburne [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Another advantage of using a long focal length is the smaller view angle. You'll capture less of a noisy background (such as tree branches) providing a simpler final image. The viewer's eye will stay on the main subject and won't get distracted by irrelevant data in the background. Tim On 12/10/04 13:00, Fred wrote: Not that I shoot glamor photography (g), but, when outdoors, I generally like to use a long lens for portraits. Not only does doing so make for pleasing enough (to me) facial features (although some might argue that a moderate telephoto makes for more natural features), but using a long lens (more importantly) also helps make for more candid portraits (since the subject is generally much less aware of being photographed). Most often I'd be using a 100-300/4, a 300/4, or a 300/4.5 (typically at about f/8, if I can get enough light). __ Do you Yahoo!? Jazz up your holiday email with celebrity designs. Learn more. http://celebrity.mail.yahoo.com
Re: Sigma 135-400 APO
Thanks John, 'photographyreview' seems to rate it quite well 4.27/5 if I recall rightly, couldn't resist at £65 GBP (mint cased) John John Whittingham Technician -- Original Message --- From: John Francis [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 15:24:30 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Sigma 135-400 APO John Whittingham mused: Any opinions on the Sigma 135-400 APO consumer zoom, took a chance on one on eBay, price was too good to pass up :} John From what I recall, they're probably the best in class for consumer grade long telephoto zooms (the 170-500 from around the same period isn't reputed to be quite as good). Definitely worth buying at any reasonable price point. --- End of Original Message ---
Re: D and compactflash
On 10 Dec 2004 at 17:02, David Zaninovic wrote: What CompactFlash size is supported by D ? Manual have only 1GB cards mentioned. Will I see any benefit from 80x speed or 40x is enough to saturate D data bus. I've used 2 and 4GB cards and I'd expect an 8GB to work. At least in the *ist D the data flow is so limited that a 40x card provides no practical bottle-neck. Rob Studdert HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA Tel +61-2-9554-4110 UTC(GMT) +10 Hours [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/ Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998
OT: PAD
So some of us are too lazy to do a picture *a week*. If you want to feel guilty about your dedication (I do), check this guy out, he's doing an oil painting a day: http://duanekeiser.blogspot.com/ Now go out and shoot, j -- Juan Buhler http://www.jbuhler.com blog at http://www.jbuhler.com/blog
Re: D and compactflash
On Friday 10 December 2004 23:02, David Zaninovic wrote: FJW What CompactFlash size is supported by D ? Manual have only 1GB cards mentioned. I don't know, I am interested in this question as well. Will I see any benefit from 80x speed or 40x is FJW enough to saturate D data bus. No benefit, as the camera is the limiting factor. save your money. -- Frits Wüthrich
Re: Survey:istD reliability
Jostein wrote: - Original Message - From: mike wilson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Did you sort out the CA issue? Well that's more of a lens issue, isn't it... :-) H. 8-)
Re: Flash Brackets 5P Flashes
I don't see why you need to have the contacts pulled or why you need another part (which would put the flash in a precarious position and is recommended against by Pentax). The Pentax grip does not carry any signal; you would have to use a (4P) cable to activate the hotshoe. I use the Pentax grip with the 500FTZ with the parts Patrick describes and without any problems. Kostas I use the the 360FGZ wired like this MZS = Hotshoe Adaptor FG = 5P Sync Cord = Off Camera Shoe Adaptor F = 360FGZ = Grip, The 360 dosn't have a 5P plug built into it, hence the need for the off camera adaptor. I don't know any other way to connect it. The 360 also has a little lever that pushes a pin out that fixes to a hole on the MZS hotshoe, I use this lever to apply a bit of pressure to the adaptor. Every now and then I help a buddy out by shooting new born's at local clinic. I use the flash/grip in reverse to bounce the light off the ceiling, To date I havn't dropped the flash on any babies plus the exposures are just fine. If you know another way of doing it please let me know. Later Feroze
Re: Help w/ portrait of person w/ large head
On 10/12/04, Steve Pearson, discombobulated, unleashed: Thanks for all the suggestions! Keep 'em coming... 15mm 3.5 and a good pair of running shoes... Cheers, Cotty ___/\__ || (O) | People, Places, Pastiche ||=|http://www.cottysnaps.com _
FS: Sigma 24mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro Aspherical
I was going to wait until next year, but it's a free listing day! http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1item=3859612588ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT Nick
Re: The official PDMLer Christmas shopping list
- Original Message - From: Pat White Subject: Re: The official PDMLer Christmas shopping list A model with no tattoos! Oh Man. What is with the friggin tattoos all of a sudden? William Robb
RE: Ist D deal at UK Photo Factory (was Blacks)
Photo Factory in the UK have the *istD at £699.99 body only, or £799.99 with 18-55mm. I guess the 18-35 has been retired. Nick -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 10/12/04 18:48:11 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Ist D deal at Blacks I just recently purchased an Ist D at Blacks in Canada. 1699.00 body only. Today Blacks lowered the price an additional $300.00 to 1399.00 Cdn. Body only. I, of course, got the credit. Anyone looking for an incredible price on the ist D might want to move quickly... Vic
Re: Fake vs Real effects
maybe it would help if you knew the official names of the two films when originally released: Kodak 2475 Recording Film and Kodak 2485 High Speed Recording film. a review from circa 1974 says this about the 2485: Like 2475, 2485 Recording Film is designed for recording applications, and doesn't produce the image quality pictorial photographers expect. It's primary asset is its ability to be pushed to EI 8000 when used for low contrast scenes. ... To get the 8000 speed, you must use Kodak 857 developer -- Catalog No is 184 9074 -- available only in expensive gallon sizes, and only through Kodak Instrumentation dealers. when pushed to EI 8000, it has film grain visible from arms length. if you want even larger grain, develop in HC-110 replenisher diluted 1:7 at 68 degrees for 10 minutes. both recording films are not meant to be used for ordinary 35mm photography. today's TMax and similar very high speed BW films are much better for many kinds of work anyway. both recording films have extended red sensitivity, something that would matter to street shooters at night. Herb... - Original Message - From: Rob Studdert [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 11:22 PM Subject: Re: Fake vs Real effects On 9 Dec 2004 at 21:53, Herb Chong wrote: you are remembering wrong. the normal EI of the film is twice that of 2475 and much larger in grain. it was the first widely available film that had an honest EI of 8000 and could render all steps of the Kodak grayscale test in normal contrast lighting with normal development. Not according to: http://www.kodak.com/US/en/business/aim/industrial/techPubs/ti2215/ti2215.shtml# Speed
Re: D and compactflash
David Zaninovic wrote: What CompactFlash size is supported by D ? Manual have only 1GB cards mentioned. Will I see any benefit from 80x speed or 40x is enough to saturate D data bus. My experience has been with Sandisk 2GB Ultra II and Lexar 1GB 40X and Lexar 2GB 80X and the Lexars were noticably faster both while taking pictures and while uploading to the PC. (Unfortunately I don't have data to support that but I know it is true.) In fact I bought the Lexar 2GB because the Sandisk was slower in the *istD than the Lexar 1GB and I wanted the 2GB size. So now the Sandisk is a backup. Larry
Re: Help w/ portrait of person w/ large head
Perhaps I'm missing something. If you're doing a tight head shot, and the fellow's not deformed in some way, IOW, if his head has all the features in proportion, why would there be a need to use anything but whatever lens you'd normally use? Make sure his eyes are in focus and stick with the standard 85mm - 120mm or so optic. If you've got an M 75~150 zoom, that may be a fine choice. Shoot from different perspectives, zoom with your feet as well as the lens, be sure the exposure is correct, and you'll end up with something worthwhile, both for his work and perhaps for display in his home. Shel
Re: D and compactflash
As Fritz mentioned, the 80X buys you nothing over the 40X used in the D. Joe
RAW fun
As I said yesterday, here's what I did while playing with the PEF format: http://www.jbuhler.com/blog/archives/0143.html It's interesting, although I'm not expecting to come up with any great ideas or techniques out of this. Just educating myself... One thing that would be fun would be to make large size prints this way (with red, green and blue pixels that only change their intensity). In a way, it would be a form of digital purism. j -- Juan Buhler http://www.jbuhler.com blog at http://www.jbuhler.com/blog
Re: Lenses for the istd(s)
Shel, this link has some images taken with the DA 14: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1036message=11394137 Joe
Re: PESO: Cotty!
On Sat, 11 Dec 2004 02:09:13 -, Ryan Lee [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=2949257 Is that the original exposure of the picture or did you take it down afterwards? Because it would be really nice to see some detail in the eyes... Nice one, though. j -- Juan Buhler http://www.jbuhler.com blog at http://www.jbuhler.com/blog
PESO: Cotty!
Hot off the press! http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=2949257 http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=2949263 and I kid you not, http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=2949266 So on a bit of a break from my folks in Devon, I find myself on Cotty's extremely comfy couch for the weekend. FWIW, Cotty Co make yummy tacos! Cheers, Ry
Re: PAD
Yikes Juan.. there's commitment for ya. I struggle to manage sending one of my friend's a photo a day, and I must admit the holidays have put me way behind! Thanks for the link! Cheers, Ryan - Original Message - From: Juan Buhler [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 11:06 PM Subject: OT: PAD So some of us are too lazy to do a picture *a week*. If you want to feel guilty about your dedication (I do), check this guy out, he's doing an oil painting a day: http://duanekeiser.blogspot.com/ Now go out and shoot, j -- Juan Buhler http://www.jbuhler.com blog at http://www.jbuhler.com/blog
Re: RAW fun
Juan Buhler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: As I said yesterday, here's what I did while playing with the PEF format: http://www.jbuhler.com/blog/archives/0143.html It's interesting, although I'm not expecting to come up with any great ideas or techniques out of this. Just educating myself... One thing that would be fun would be to make large size prints this way (with red, green and blue pixels that only change their intensity). In a way, it would be a form of digital purism. Or Digital Pointillism - you could be the Georges Seurat of photography! -- Mark Roberts Photography and writing www.robertstech.com
Re: Minolta lenses...
Apologies if this comes through twice. I sent it earlier, but it never showed up in the archive. - Jason, 210 mm. will not give satisfactory results for bird photography. In a pair of binoculars, it would be the equivalent of 4x. Everyone I know who watches birds through binoculars uses at least 8x to 10x. If he is on a budget, he might look at the Sigma DL or APO Macro 70-300 f4.0-5.6. There are two versions and grades. The APO is more expensive, but still very affordable, and gives better results due to its apochromatic design. That said, it has noticeable edge weakness at 300 mm., unless you shoot it at f16. Center sharpness is okay at 300 mm. If your father is using autofocus on birds, then perhaps center sharpness is what he needs. He will be more satisfied with 300 mm than with 200 (but be sure he understands shooting at 1/focal length). In any case, the Sigma is probably your best bet for the money. It has a nice macro mode. There is a comparable model from Tamron, but many consider it not to be as good. Here's a couple of photos taken with the Sigma APO, 300 mm., wide open (f5.6): http://pug.komkon.org/04oct/mopti.html http://pug.komkon.org/03mar/djnmsqsn.html Here's another taken in macro mode: http://pug.komkon.org/03may/buttrfly.html Joe
apology for previous post
Sorry. I posted without adding a subject line. Severe brain fart on my part. Hooroo. Regards, Trevor Australia Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit upon his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats. - Henry Louis Mencken
Re: The official PDMLer Christmas shopping list
William wrote: Oh Man. What is with the friggin tattoos all of a sudden? It seems to be trendy with young women. To me, it's just a case of messing up an attractive body, but I can hardly find a model who hasn't decorated herself. I really am wishing for a model with no tattoos, I've got all the Pentax gear I need. Pat White
Cheap Ink Probed
A farticle about 3rd party inks for you homr printers. Sorry about URL hell... William Robb - Original Message - From: Brian Schneider PM Subject: Netscape Search ink http://search.netscape.com/ns/boomframe.jsp?query=ink+longevity+testpage=1offset=0result_url=redir%3Fsrc%3Dwebsearch%26requestId%3Deffb33116c4cdec2%26clickedItemRank%3D8%26userQuery%3Dink%2Blongevity%2Btest%26clickedItemURN%3Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.pcworld.com%2Fnews%2Farticle%2F0%2Caid%2C111767%2C00.asp%26invocationType%3D-%26fromPage%3DNSCPToolbarNS%26amp%3BampTest%3D1remove_url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pcworld.com%2Fnews%2Farticle%2F0%2Caid%2C111767%2C00.asp
Re: Tablets
On Dec 11, 2004, at 2:38 AM, William Robb wrote: Thats one of the nice things about the larger tablet. I have mine mapped so that my two screens are just about the full width of the tablet, and I still have plenty of working room up and down (not sure if that is considered the x or y) How far is your tablet from your screens? I find that if I have mine any closer than about 12 the tablet picks up electromagnetic interference from the screen causing the pointer to wobble while I'm using the pen. If you're using LCDs it won't matter. I would guess that the extent of the interference would depend greatly on the make and model of monitor as well as the resolution and refresh settings (changing my refresh rate alters the speed of the wobbling). My tablet is an Intuos - the newer Intuos2 and 3 series might be more resistant to EMI. Because of my resultant posture from having the tablet so far away I really screwed up my wrist last night when working on some photos. I've moved my tablet to a better position today but I might just have to bring forward my plan for a Cinema Display (gotta pay off the computer first). BTW the vertical axis is generally considered to be Y. Cheers, - Dave http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/
Re: OT: PAD
On Dec 11, 2004, at 12:06 PM, Juan Buhler wrote: So some of us are too lazy to do a picture *a week*. My excuse is that I've been too busy with moving house. - Dave (4 weeks behind now but I got the scanners hooked up last night) http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/
Re: RAW fun
On Dec 11, 2004, at 3:08 PM, Juan Buhler wrote: It's interesting, although I'm not expecting to come up with any great ideas or techniques out of this. Just educating myself... That reminds me of when I was playing with the descreening mode on my flatbed scanner. If you've ever had to scan a halftone image without proper descreening you'll know how hard it can be to work with later! Of course, you could have just taken a macro photograph of your computer screen (someone did that for PUG once... digital theme I think) Cheers, - Dave http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/
Re: Grip Strap F
On Dec 11, 2004, at 3:41 PM, Trevor Bailey wrote: Has anyone heard of the Pentax Grip Strap F? I picked one up from an Ebayer in Holland along with a AA battery grip for the SFXn. The Grip Strap F completely changes the handling of the SFXn. Hmm, I thought the Grip Strap F was for the Z-1p. Looks like I was wrong... Boz's site says that's called the FDP Grip Strap. Anyway I know what you mean. The Z-1p is fantastic with its strap. Pity it doesn't take extra batteries but that's been complained about enough already :) Cheers, - Dave http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/
OT: Photographing San Fransisco after the 1906 quake
Hi all, Saw this linked from Slashdot and figured some people here might find it interesting. I'd love to see an 8 by 4-1/2 feet contact print. http://www.rtpnet.org/robroy/lawrence/landscape.html Cheers, - Dave http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/
Re: Tablets
- Original Message - From: David Mann Subject: Re: Tablets How far is your tablet from your screens? I find that if I have mine any closer than about 12 the tablet picks up electromagnetic interference from the screen causing the pointer to wobble while I'm using the pen. If you're using LCDs it won't matter. When I am using it, I have it about 14 inches from the screen. I would guess that the extent of the interference would depend greatly on the make and model of monitor as well as the resolution and refresh settings (changing my refresh rate alters the speed of the wobbling). My tablet is an Intuos - the newer Intuos2 and 3 series might be more resistant to EMI. My main monitor is a Samsung Syncmaster 955DF with an 85hz refresh rate. I am not getting any wobble. In fact, I just held my tablet right against my screen and didn't have any crazy stuff happen. It looks like the intuos3 is not being affected by the screen. Because of my resultant posture from having the tablet so far away I really screwed up my wrist last night when working on some photos. I've moved my tablet to a better position today but I might just have to bring forward my plan for a Cinema Display (gotta pay off the computer first). I go for more screen magnification and greater distance from the screen. I hate having my nose to a monitor. You may have told me, but what size of monitor are you using, and at what resolution? BTW the vertical axis is generally considered to be Y. I knew that, I was testing youG William Robb
Re: The official PDMLer Christmas shopping list
This one time, at band camp, Pat White [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: A model with no tattoos! Pat White Interestingly enough, I have been commissioned to produce a series of images for an art gallery, the theme of the exhibition is 'Tatoos and peircings'. The target audience is the younger generation ie. 16-25 and is to show tatoos and peircings in all shapes and forms. Cultural tatoos, jail tats, military tats, etc and of course, various body piercings. If you know of an australian model with unusual tats or piercings who is up for a few photos, just let me know. Kind regards Kevin -- Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.
PAW PESO - Rural Snapshot
While driving I spotted this scene, and asked my friend, Ron, who was driving, to stop the truck, and got out to make this photograph. I'd have loved to have gotten closer, but Ron was being a pill and urged me to hurry, and this was the only snap I got. It's a little different from most of my work, and maybe you'll enjoy it. http://home.earthlink.net/~my-pics/911.html Shel
Re: Survey:istD reliability
Absolutely correct, Jostein, so here's my null problems report! John Coyle Brisbane, Australia - Original Message - From: Jostein [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, December 11, 2004 1:10 AM Subject: Re: Survey:istD reliability Well to get a ratio, you'd need response from those who haven't had problems as well, I suppose? That's where my *istD is. No issues at all. Jostein Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]: One last question,i hope, foilks.:-) Of the folks on this list, or friends of folks on this list: 1- How many have bought the camera and had to return it soon after with a malfunction ie: backfocus problems,battery problems,to many hot pixels etc. I'm curious to see what the ratio might be. I know a few have complained but i think for the most part the majority have had little or no problems. Thanks for your time No obligationg Keep in mind my choice to aquire the D is for a walkaround digital,not so much for work. Dave This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program.
RE: Survey:istD reliability
My first *istD couldn't find the flash card, so I returned it to BH. They immediately sent me a new camera. I now have two *istD cameras that have combined to take over 10,000 RAW images. I have not had any problems with either camera, and I am very pleased with them. Paul
Re: Help w/ portrait of person w/ large head
- Original Message - From: Steve Pearson Subject: Help w/ portrait of person w/ large head Does anyone have any suggestions for taking a portrait for someone with a fairly large head? This man is tall, around 6' 5. He needs a head shot only for his work. What kind of angle should I shoot at? Any other creative ideas??? Try using a longish lens. If you are shooting 35mm, something in the 135mm range would be about right. Other than that, have the guy sit so that you aren't pointing the camera up at him. I like the optical axis of the lens to be at about eye level, or slightly above for head shots. William Robb
[no subject]
G'day All. Has anyone heard of the Pentax Grip Strap F? I picked one up from an Ebayer in Holland along with a AA battery grip for the SFXn. The Grip Strap F completely changes the handling of the SFXn. The camera can be carried attached to the hand without any worries. All controls can be reached with ease. There is no mention of the grip strap F on Bojidar Dimitrov's Pentax K-Mount Page. Hooroo. Regards, Trevor Grafton Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit upon his hands,hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats. - Henry Louis Mencken
The sky might not be falling after all....
I was in a Ritz Camera today having some snapshots processed with their Fuji Frontier and I noticed that they had a Pentax *ist-Ds on display. I asked to look at it and the clerk brought it down for me to play with. Mmm I'm still on the fence about getting a DSLR, but that camera felt pretty darn good. The body finish is not as nice as my MZ-S, but the splatter-finished plastic feels nice and solid. The viewfinder is remarkably good as well. I was also impressed by the touch-up focus capability of the kit lens--sure wish the FA* lenses had this! The most interesting part came when I asked the clerk how the cameras were selling. He said that they were selling so well that they couldn't keep them in stock and that I had the last one in the store in my hands. I asked what set the Ds apart from the Nikon D70 and he responded that the better viewfinder was a big selling point. Add this to occurrences like the formation of Lens Buyers Anonymous (LBA) at the dpreview.com Pentax SLR forum and maybe the sky isn't falling for Pentax after all --Mark From jeff Sat Dec 11 02:57:06 2004 Return-Path: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Delivery-Date: Fri Dec 10 18:57:06 2004 Return-path: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Envelope-to: archive@mail-archive.com Delivery-date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 18:57:06 -0800 Received: from exprod5mx124.postini.com ([64.18.0.38] helo=psmtp.com) by toko.jab.org with smtp (Exim 3.36 #1 (Debian)) id 1CcxRS-0001Yr-00 for archive@mail-archive.com; Fri, 10 Dec 2004 18:57:06 -0800 Received: from source ([212.47.80.97]) by exprod5mx124.postini.com ([64.18.4.10]) with SMTP; Fri, 10 Dec 2004 21:59:35 EST X-Envelope-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 20:37:17 -0600 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook, Build 10.0.6626 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Envelope-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-UIDL: _ZnC.d1luBB.mta04.mx Sender: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: Stan Schwartz [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Mailing-List: [EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (use 'Subscribe [EMAIL PROTECTED]') List-Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (No HTML, plain text only) List-Unsubscribe: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] (use 'Unsubscribe [EMAIL PROTECTED]') List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/filmscanners@halftone.co.uk Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable To: archive@mail-archive.com Subject: [filmscanners] RE: BW from Color X-pstn-levels: (S:99.9/99.9 R:95.9108 P:95.9108 M:94.8624 C:98.9754 ) X-pstn-settings: 1 (0.1500:0.1500) gt3 gt2 gt1 r p m c X-pstn-addresses: from [EMAIL PROTECTED] [294/10] X-Spam-Checker-Version: SpamAssassin 2.64 (2004-01-11) on toko.jab.org X-Spam-Level: X-Spam-Status: No, hits=-4.6 required=4.0 tests=BAYES_00,DNS_FROM_RFCI_DSN autolearn=no version=2.64 My own experience is that if you want sharp BW, use a sharp color transparency film. I like the BW images that can be extracted from = Velvia and Kodak's Elite Extra Chrome. Learning to examine each color transparency for its hidden BW has introduced a new dimension to photography for me. Stan Schwartz -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of = [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, December 10, 2004 4:11 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [filmscanners] Re: BW from Color And a related question: If you wanted to shoot in color, yet have the flexibility of converting to BW digitally (so you don't have to carry = and switch between films), what color film would work best, or would you = use? I particularly like Ilford XP2; is there a color negative film that would = give similar characteristics to XP2 when converted to BW? Unsubscribe by mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED], with 'unsubscribe filmscanners' or 'unsubscribe filmscanners_digest' (as appropriate) in the message title or body From jeff Sat Dec 11 02:57:09 2004 Return-Path: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Delivery-Date: Fri Dec 10 18:57:09 2004 Return-path: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Envelope-to: archive@jab.org Delivery-date: Fri, 10 Dec 2004 18:57:09 -0800 Received: from exprod5mx124.postini.com ([64.18.0.38] helo=psmtp.com) by toko.jab.org with smtp (Exim 3.36 #1 (Debian)) id 1CcxRU-0001Z0-00 for archive@jab.org; Fri, 10 Dec 2004 18:57:08 -0800 Received: from source ([66.35.250.220]) (using TLSv1) by exprod5mx124.postini.com ([64.18.4.10]) with SMTP; Fri, 10 Dec 2004 18:59:20 PST Received: from sc8-sf-list1-b.sourceforge.net ([10.3.1.7] helo=projects.sourceforge.net) by sc8-sf-spam2.sourceforge.net with esmtp (Exim 4.33) id 1CcxTM-0005h7-52; Fri, 10 Dec 2004 18:59:04 -0800 Received: from sc8-sf-mx1-b.sourceforge.net ([10.3.1.11] helo=sc8-sf-mx1.sourceforge.net)
*istD auto focus woes
Every shot I take using auto focus is a little soft, regardless of the lens I use. It would seem the focus point is confused. Its not that the whole image is out of focus, simply the focal plane, with objects in the fore ground being in focus and the object that I have focused on is soft. This is most notable with faster lenses, eg: 2.8 or 1.4 Is there a cure for this or is it a trip to the repair shop with it? Kind regards Kevin -- Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.
