Re: K3-III metering
If you don't like the camera you could always send it to me! Alan C On 26-Apr-23 08:34 AM, l...@red4est.com wrote: Either film is a lot more forgiving, or our standards were a lot lower. On April 25, 2023 11:07:37 PM PDT, jco...@iinet.net.au wrote: "Sunny F16" "Cloudy F8" "Dark F5.6" All on Kodachrome 64 - it's a wonder we got so many keepers! John in Brisbane -Original Message- From: Ralf R Radermacher Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2023 11:57 PM To: pdml@pdml.net Subject: Re: K3-III metering Am 25.04.23 um 15:45 schrieb Godfrey DiGiorgi: My best "meter" for difficult situations like that is a Kodak Pocket Photo Guide. It has an exposure calculator based on descriptions of scene type, and I've found its suggestions to be right on the mark nearly all the time. "f8 and be there" :-) Ralf -- Ralf R. Radermacher - Köln/Cologne, Germany Blog : http://the-real-fotoralf.blogspot.com Audio : http://aporee.org/maps/projects/fotoralf Fotos : https://www.fotocommunity.de/user_photos/770012 -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
RE: K3-III metering
I'd had my first camera for a week, and was on board a ship off Funchal, Madeira, and wanted to take a shot of the harbour and city lights. I had no idea how to set the camera, and an experienced fellow passenger helped me out. He asked two questions : "What film are you using?" - K32 "What's the lens?" - Colour-Lanthar f2.8 "Ok - set it at 1/30th and f2.8" - which I did, and it worked perfectly! On another occasion, a couple of years later, the sun was setting through light rain, and, from a very high hill, and, with my non-metering Pentax SV, decided 1/8th at f1.8 might work, this time on K64. It did too, and is one of what I consider my best images: PDML-ers may recall it from a PESO or gallery entry a long time ago. So we did get good images by guess and by God, although we also had a lot of misses! John in Brisbane -Original Message- From: Alan C Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2023 7:21 PM To: pdml@pdml.net Subject: Re: K3-III metering Sunny 16 is more applicable to tropical locations with bright light. Perhaps something like Sunny 11 in Temperate climates? Those were starting points for 100ASA film at 1/100 sec. From there it was all mental arithmetic or the use of tables. Alan C On 26-Apr-23 08:34 AM, l...@red4est.com wrote: > Either film is a lot more forgiving, or our standards were a lot lower. > > On April 25, 2023 11:07:37 PM PDT, jco...@iinet.net.au wrote: >> "Sunny F16" >> "Cloudy F8" >> "Dark F5.6" >> >> All on Kodachrome 64 - it's a wonder we got so many keepers! >> >> John in Brisbane >> >> >> >> -Original Message- >> From: Ralf R Radermacher >> Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2023 11:57 PM >> To: pdml@pdml.net >> Subject: Re: K3-III metering >> >> Am 25.04.23 um 15:45 schrieb Godfrey DiGiorgi: >> >>> My best "meter" for difficult situations like that is a Kodak Pocket Photo >>> Guide. It has an exposure calculator based on descriptions of scene type, >>> and I've found its suggestions to be right on the mark nearly all the time. >> "f8 and be there" :-) >> >> Ralf >> >> -- >> Ralf R. Radermacher - Köln/Cologne, Germany Blog : >> http://the-real-fotoralf.blogspot.com >> Audio : http://aporee.org/maps/projects/fotoralf >> Fotos : https://www.fotocommunity.de/user_photos/770012 >> -- >> %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email >> to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link >> directly above and follow the directions. >> -- >> %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email >> to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the >> link directly above and follow the directions. >> -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: K3-III metering
Sunny 16 is more applicable to tropical locations with bright light. Perhaps something like Sunny 11 in Temperate climates? Those were starting points for 100ASA film at 1/100 sec. From there it was all mental arithmetic or the use of tables. Alan C On 26-Apr-23 08:34 AM, l...@red4est.com wrote: Either film is a lot more forgiving, or our standards were a lot lower. On April 25, 2023 11:07:37 PM PDT, jco...@iinet.net.au wrote: "Sunny F16" "Cloudy F8" "Dark F5.6" All on Kodachrome 64 - it's a wonder we got so many keepers! John in Brisbane -Original Message- From: Ralf R Radermacher Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2023 11:57 PM To: pdml@pdml.net Subject: Re: K3-III metering Am 25.04.23 um 15:45 schrieb Godfrey DiGiorgi: My best "meter" for difficult situations like that is a Kodak Pocket Photo Guide. It has an exposure calculator based on descriptions of scene type, and I've found its suggestions to be right on the mark nearly all the time. "f8 and be there" :-) Ralf -- Ralf R. Radermacher - Köln/Cologne, Germany Blog : http://the-real-fotoralf.blogspot.com Audio : http://aporee.org/maps/projects/fotoralf Fotos : https://www.fotocommunity.de/user_photos/770012 -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
RE: K3-III metering
Either film is a lot more forgiving, or our standards were a lot lower. On April 25, 2023 11:07:37 PM PDT, jco...@iinet.net.au wrote: >"Sunny F16" >"Cloudy F8" >"Dark F5.6" > >All on Kodachrome 64 - it's a wonder we got so many keepers! > >John in Brisbane > > > >-Original Message- >From: Ralf R Radermacher >Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2023 11:57 PM >To: pdml@pdml.net >Subject: Re: K3-III metering > >Am 25.04.23 um 15:45 schrieb Godfrey DiGiorgi: > >> My best "meter" for difficult situations like that is a Kodak Pocket Photo >> Guide. It has an exposure calculator based on descriptions of scene type, >> and I've found its suggestions to be right on the mark nearly all the time. > >"f8 and be there" :-) > >Ralf > >-- >Ralf R. Radermacher - Köln/Cologne, Germany Blog : >http://the-real-fotoralf.blogspot.com >Audio : http://aporee.org/maps/projects/fotoralf >Fotos : https://www.fotocommunity.de/user_photos/770012 >-- >%(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List >To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the >PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. >-- >%(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List >To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net >to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow >the directions. > -- Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity. -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
RE: K3-III metering
"Sunny F16" "Cloudy F8" "Dark F5.6" All on Kodachrome 64 - it's a wonder we got so many keepers! John in Brisbane -Original Message- From: Ralf R Radermacher Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2023 11:57 PM To: pdml@pdml.net Subject: Re: K3-III metering Am 25.04.23 um 15:45 schrieb Godfrey DiGiorgi: > My best "meter" for difficult situations like that is a Kodak Pocket Photo > Guide. It has an exposure calculator based on descriptions of scene type, and > I've found its suggestions to be right on the mark nearly all the time. "f8 and be there" :-) Ralf -- Ralf R. Radermacher - Köln/Cologne, Germany Blog : http://the-real-fotoralf.blogspot.com Audio : http://aporee.org/maps/projects/fotoralf Fotos : https://www.fotocommunity.de/user_photos/770012 -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: K3-III metering
Am 25.04.23 um 15:45 schrieb Godfrey DiGiorgi: My best "meter" for difficult situations like that is a Kodak Pocket Photo Guide. It has an exposure calculator based on descriptions of scene type, and I've found its suggestions to be right on the mark nearly all the time. "f8 and be there" :-) Ralf -- Ralf R. Radermacher - Köln/Cologne, Germany Blog : http://the-real-fotoralf.blogspot.com Audio : http://aporee.org/maps/projects/fotoralf Fotos : https://www.fotocommunity.de/user_photos/770012 -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: K3-III metering
> On Apr 24, 2023, at 12:49 PM, Ralf R Radermacher wrote: > > Am 24.04.23 um 20:46 schrieb Larry Colen: >> The K-3 III metering seems to fall down “when things go pear shaped at >> night”. > > As you might know, I like to do the odd night shot, mostly industrial > scenes. As a matter of fact, I've never relied on any camera's metering > under those conditions. My best "meter" for difficult situations like that is a Kodak Pocket Photo Guide. It has an exposure calculator based on descriptions of scene type, and I've found its suggestions to be right on the mark nearly all the time. G — No matter where you go, there you are. -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: K3-III metering
> On Apr 24, 2023, at 12:49 PM, Ralf R Radermacher wrote: > > Am 24.04.23 um 20:46 schrieb Larry Colen: >> The K-3 III metering seems to fall down “when things go pear shaped at >> night”. > > As you might know, I like to do the odd night shot, mostly industrial Yup, some of them are very odd. > scenes. As a matter of fact, I've never relied on any camera's metering > under those conditions. My SOP, especially in challenging lighting is trust but verify. The 3III has a lot of metering modes, and I think that I just don’t know how to make the best of them. Unfortunately in situations like last night, I simply didn’t have the time to understand WTF the camera was trying to do, and changing my angle could dramatically affect the exposure. I posted elselist the link to my photos with the K-1, but for the sake of flow: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ellarsee/albums/72177720307763152 It had little trouble, especially bracketing -2 and 0 stops. > > Ralf > > -- > Ralf R. Radermacher - Köln/Cologne, Germany > Blog : http://the-real-fotoralf.blogspot.com > Audio : http://aporee.org/maps/projects/fotoralf > Fotos : https://www.fotocommunity.de/user_photos/770012 > -- > %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List > To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow > the directions. > -- Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from ret13est -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: K3-III metering
Am 24.04.23 um 20:46 schrieb Larry Colen: The K-3 III metering seems to fall down “when things go pear shaped at night”. As you might know, I like to do the odd night shot, mostly industrial scenes. As a matter of fact, I've never relied on any camera's metering under those conditions. Ralf -- Ralf R. Radermacher - Köln/Cologne, Germany Blog : http://the-real-fotoralf.blogspot.com Audio : http://aporee.org/maps/projects/fotoralf Fotos : https://www.fotocommunity.de/user_photos/770012 -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
K3-III metering
The K-3 III metering seems to fall down “when things go pear shaped at night”. I had issues when I was photographing them clearing the fallen trees and powerlines a few weeks back, and last night someone set fire to a car in the parking lot at the new office in Riverside. I grabbed the 3-III and it was exposing for the darkest areas of the image, multi second exposures, so I just exchanged for my K-1, which I can make work. I might need to use P mode for night time shots instead. It also probably didn’t help that it had the 18-270 rather than the 16-50 so it was much slower. I know that the 3III can get great shots in adverse conditions, I just haven’t had a chance to learn it well enough to do so. It does seem to behave very differently from all of my other cameras. I’ll try to post images from last night’s excitement soon, I just haven’t had a chance to do much processing. -- Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from ret13est -- %(real_name)s Pentax-Discuss Mail List To unsubscribe send an email to pdml-le...@pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Metering Question
I've been thinking about converting either my K-5 or K-01 to be a dedicated infrared body. I've been assuming that the K-01 metered off the sensor and that in live view the K-5 did as well. I also assumed that this would result in more accurate metering, since it based on the IR spectrum that the converted camera would be recording. My IR converted K-10D records in the IR spectrum but meters visible light - sometimes they are very close, other times not. So I do a lot of on the fly expose adjustments. In another thread recently the comment was made that metering and recording are done on two different sensors. Is that the case with the K-01 or with a DSLR (K-5)operating in live view mode? I'd expect that the K-01 or K-5 would produce better IQ than the K-10D, but a big part of my motivation was to get more accurate metering --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering Question
dont know but interesting question. I'll follow this one. Dave On Sat, Feb 7, 2015 at 5:31 PM, Mark C pdml-m...@charter.net wrote: I've been thinking about converting either my K-5 or K-01 to be a dedicated infrared body. I've been assuming that the K-01 metered off the sensor and that in live view the K-5 did as well. I also assumed that this would result in more accurate metering, since it based on the IR spectrum that the converted camera would be recording. My IR converted K-10D records in the IR spectrum but meters visible light - sometimes they are very close, other times not. So I do a lot of on the fly expose adjustments. In another thread recently the comment was made that metering and recording are done on two different sensors. Is that the case with the K-01 or with a DSLR (K-5)operating in live view mode? I'd expect that the K-01 or K-5 would produce better IQ than the K-10D, but a big part of my motivation was to get more accurate metering --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- Documenting Life in Rural Ontario. www.caughtinmotion.com http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/ York Region, Ontario, Canada -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Hint for exposure metering for videos with Pentax DSLR
Fri Jan 24 15:04:15 EST 2014 Bruce Walker wrote: On Fri, Jan 24, 2014 at 12:52 PM, Igor Roshchin str at komkon.org wrote: Fri Jan 24 06:03:57 EST 2014 Steve Cottrell wrote: On 23/1/14, Bruce Walker, discombobulated, unleashed: Were it I shooting video, I'd meter the scene and set the camera on manual at that setting. There's nothing more annoying than having the exposure changing throughout some footage. That goes for WB too. That's the way we do it. However, panning or tilting through from (say) dark to bright areas of subject sometimes means one has to pull some stop. Not a problem. Pulling stop, zooming *and* focus all manually and at the same time can take a couple of goes. Not a problem though. Sure, - but that's for when you are doing a planned shooting, and when you have a VIDEO camera, i.e. a camera that is designed (as opposed to _adapted_) for shooting videos. I don't know about K-3, but K-7 and K-5 are not in that league. Don't dismiss your DSLR as a high quality video tool so quickly. Entire broadcast quality television programs have been shot using DSLRs (eg House with Canon 5DmkII's). I see a lot of indie movies at festivals and when you check the credits, 9 out of 10 of them are shot on DSLRs these days. A few on film, some REDs, but largely DSLRs. Put one on a rig, add a big focus knob/gear doohickey and you can be shooting prfessional video. I know. I've seen as an educational/documentary movie was being shot using a Canon DSLR. What I was talking about is that K-5 is missing certain capabilities, e.g. possibility to change the aperture once recording is happening. And as for myself, - most of the time I don't have the opportunity (and the desire) to deal with a rig, etc. Cheers, Igor -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Hint for exposure metering for videos with Pentax DSLR
On 23/1/14, Bruce Walker, discombobulated, unleashed: Were it I shooting video, I'd meter the scene and set the camera on manual at that setting. There's nothing more annoying than having the exposure changing throughout some footage. That goes for WB too. That's the way we do it. However, panning or tilting through from (say) dark to bright areas of subject sometimes means one has to pull some stop. Not a problem. Pulling stop, zooming *and* focus all manually and at the same time can take a couple of goes. Not a problem though. -- Cheers, Cotty ___/\__Broadcast, Corporate, || (O) |Web Video Production --www.seeingeye.tv _ -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Hint for exposure metering for videos with Pentax DSLR
Fri Jan 24 06:03:57 EST 2014 Steve Cottrell wrote: On 23/1/14, Bruce Walker, discombobulated, unleashed: Were it I shooting video, I'd meter the scene and set the camera on manual at that setting. There's nothing more annoying than having the exposure changing throughout some footage. That goes for WB too. That's the way we do it. However, panning or tilting through from (say) dark to bright areas of subject sometimes means one has to pull some stop. Not a problem. Pulling stop, zooming *and* focus all manually and at the same time can take a couple of goes. Not a problem though. Sure, - but that's for when you are doing a planned shooting, and when you have a VIDEO camera, i.e. a camera that is designed (as opposed to _adapted_) for shooting videos. I don't know about K-3, but K-7 and K-5 are not in that league. In my case, Bruce has correctly identified the situation: Unless, of course, it's just the filmic equivalent of a snapshot. Then Auto everything and go for it. While K-5 cannot do AF in video mode, and that's what you have to do manually, it does a reasonable job on doing metering... ... but only in the center-weighted (and maybe matrix) mode for the reasons described in the original message. Videos I shoot are more close to snapshots then to anything more serious. (You can see some of them here: http://youtube.com/SwingStR For most of the occasions, I just don't have time/energy to do it in a more proper way (with a tripod, etc.). Besides, as far as I know, K-5 doesn't allow to change the aperture _after_ you start recording the video. AFAIR, the only option about that is to allow or not to allow camera changing the exposure during recording (I suspect it does that but adjusting the gain, - essentially the equivalent ISO). Igor -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Hint for exposure metering for videos with Pentax DSLR
On Fri, Jan 24, 2014 at 12:52 PM, Igor Roshchin s...@komkon.org wrote: Fri Jan 24 06:03:57 EST 2014 Steve Cottrell wrote: On 23/1/14, Bruce Walker, discombobulated, unleashed: Were it I shooting video, I'd meter the scene and set the camera on manual at that setting. There's nothing more annoying than having the exposure changing throughout some footage. That goes for WB too. That's the way we do it. However, panning or tilting through from (say) dark to bright areas of subject sometimes means one has to pull some stop. Not a problem. Pulling stop, zooming *and* focus all manually and at the same time can take a couple of goes. Not a problem though. Sure, - but that's for when you are doing a planned shooting, and when you have a VIDEO camera, i.e. a camera that is designed (as opposed to _adapted_) for shooting videos. I don't know about K-3, but K-7 and K-5 are not in that league. Don't dismiss your DSLR as a high quality video tool so quickly. Entire broadcast quality television programs have been shot using DSLRs (eg House with Canon 5DmkII's). I see a lot of indie movies at festivals and when you check the credits, 9 out of 10 of them are shot on DSLRs these days. A few on film, some REDs, but largely DSLRs. Put one on a rig, add a big focus knob/gear doohickey and you can be shooting prfessional video. -- -bmw -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Hint for exposure metering for videos with Pentax DSLR
Maybe this will be helpful to others: I found that when there is a high contrast between the main subject and the background (e.g. dark-clothed people with a white wall in the background), if the exposure is set to the central-point (as I frequently do when I shoot still images) or to the focal point, then the motion of focus object can cause rapid changes of the brightness of the video. So, it is better to have the exposure set to the full-frame,center-weighted mode (green rectangle). In this case, the brightness doesn't fluctuate widely, when the object is moving (e.g. dancing). I don't know how this applies to K3, as I observed it with a K-5 (and probably K-7). Igor -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Hint for exposure metering for videos with Pentax DSLR
Were it I shooting video, I'd meter the scene and set the camera on manual at that setting. There's nothing more annoying than having the exposure changing throughout some footage. That goes for WB too. Unless, of course, it's just the filmic equivalent of a snapshot. Then Auto everything and go for it. On Thu, Jan 23, 2014 at 5:01 PM, Igor Roshchin s...@komkon.org wrote: Maybe this will be helpful to others: I found that when there is a high contrast between the main subject and the background (e.g. dark-clothed people with a white wall in the background), if the exposure is set to the central-point (as I frequently do when I shoot still images) or to the focal point, then the motion of focus object can cause rapid changes of the brightness of the video. So, it is better to have the exposure set to the full-frame,center-weighted mode (green rectangle). In this case, the brightness doesn't fluctuate widely, when the object is moving (e.g. dancing). I don't know how this applies to K3, as I observed it with a K-5 (and probably K-7). Igor -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- -bmw -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Flash metering tip: one-button wireless trigger
From: Bruce Walker Well, no. I'm assuming that we're *already* using wireless triggers and receivers instead of a long PC sync cord. This is pretty common now that these things can be had for $10 each now. I'm showing how you can simplify the arm meter, press button on trigger to fire flash, read meter process down to just press button on meter and read it. Quicker and more reliable. On Thu, Jun 14, 2012 at 5:15 PM, John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com wrote: I thought the handy tip was substituting a cheap wireless trigger for a long PC sync cord. I've always used a tethered meter (Sekonic L-408) to directly trigger the strobes; never used the arm meter ... fire flash, read meter process. It struck me as being less reliable. I replaced the long sync cable with a wireless trigger about 5 years ago. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Flash metering tip: one-button wireless trigger
On Fri, Jun 15, 2012 at 9:28 AM, John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com wrote: From: Bruce Walker Well, no. I'm assuming that we're *already* using wireless triggers and receivers instead of a long PC sync cord. This is pretty common now that these things can be had for $10 each now. I'm showing how you can simplify the arm meter, press button on trigger to fire flash, read meter process down to just press button on meter and read it. Quicker and more reliable. On Thu, Jun 14, 2012 at 5:15 PM, John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com wrote: I thought the handy tip was substituting a cheap wireless trigger for a long PC sync cord. I've always used a tethered meter (Sekonic L-408) to directly trigger the strobes; never used the arm meter ... fire flash, read meter process. It struck me as being less reliable. I replaced the long sync cable with a wireless trigger about 5 years ago. Five years ago I was just starting to think I needed to try something better than my wife's point'n'shoot! :-) -- -bmw -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Flash metering tip: one-button wireless trigger
On Jun 15, 2012, at 7:42 AM, Bruce Walker wrote: Five years ago I was just starting to think I needed to try something better than my wife's point'n'shoot! :-) I thought you were your wife's point'n'shoot. -- Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Flash metering tip: one-button wireless trigger
I discovered a handy flash metering workflow trick and wrote up a little article on it ... http://blog.brucemwalker.com/2012/06/flash-metering-tip-one-button-wireless.html The Pentax content is that the included product shot was taken with my K20D, DA* 16-50/2.8, f/11, 125th, 200 ISO. AF160-FC in a Westcott Mini Apollo softbox. Cheers! -- -bmw -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Flash metering tip: one-button wireless trigger
Mid to high end studio flash meters have had the ability to trigger flash, (in fact I couldn't imagine flash meters not having that capability), for at least 30 years. I don't think I've ever used a low end flash meter, is there such a beast? It's nice to know that Cowboy supplies the correct patch cords. Nice little write up. On 6/14/2012 10:32 AM, Bruce Walker wrote: I discovered a handy flash metering workflow trick and wrote up a little article on it ... http://blog.brucemwalker.com/2012/06/flash-metering-tip-one-button-wireless.html The Pentax content is that the included product shot was taken with my K20D, DA* 16-50/2.8, f/11, 125th, 200 ISO. AF160-FC in a Westcott Mini Apollo softbox. Cheers! -- Don't lose heart, they might want to cut it out, and they'll want to avoid a lengthly search. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Flash metering tip: one-button wireless trigger
Thanks! At $50, I'd consider the Honeywell/Wein WP-500 to be a low-end flash meter ... http://goo.gl/SFGUS http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/63334-REG/Wein_950_010_WP_500B_Standard_Meter.html As far as I can tell it has no PC sync output. Maybe Larry can comment; he has one. I don't know if there is anything else out there like this though. Incident flash meters seem to be pretty-much a pro or serious enthusiast level tool, so are priced accordingly. I haven't had a great deal of experience with flash light meters, but up until now I've only worked in situations where I, and folks with Sekonic meters on the same shoot, have had to manually arm our meters then fire the flashes using whatever triggers were in use. I started out using the Pentax wireless P-TTL modes, then various Cactus radios, then I used the Elinchrom wireless gadgets (which are pretty cool as you get remote control of strobe features). If you use PocketWizard radio triggers, the Sekonic 358 accepts an internal module to fire those. Huge bucks though, for what you get. I'd just as soon use this cable trick with the trigger for free. On Thu, Jun 14, 2012 at 2:02 PM, P. J. Alling webstertwenty...@gmail.com wrote: Mid to high end studio flash meters have had the ability to trigger flash, (in fact I couldn't imagine flash meters not having that capability), for at least 30 years. I don't think I've ever used a low end flash meter, is there such a beast? It's nice to know that Cowboy supplies the correct patch cords. Nice little write up. On 6/14/2012 10:32 AM, Bruce Walker wrote: I discovered a handy flash metering workflow trick and wrote up a little article on it ... http://blog.brucemwalker.com/2012/06/flash-metering-tip-one-button-wireless.html The Pentax content is that the included product shot was taken with my K20D, DA* 16-50/2.8, f/11, 125th, 200 ISO. AF160-FC in a Westcott Mini Apollo softbox. Cheers! -- Don't lose heart, they might want to cut it out, and they'll want to avoid a lengthly search. -- -bmw -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Flash metering tip: one-button wireless trigger
On Jun 14, 2012, at 12:52 PM, Bruce Walker wrote: Thanks! At $50, I'd consider the Honeywell/Wein WP-500 to be a low-end flash meter ... http://goo.gl/SFGUS http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/63334-REG/Wein_950_010_WP_500B_Standard_Meter.html As far as I can tell it has no PC sync output. Maybe Larry can comment; he has one. I don't know if there is anything else out there like this though. Incident flash meters seem to be pretty-much a pro or serious enthusiast level tool, so are priced accordingly. Nope, no sync output. It's pretty simple, you turn it off, turn it back on, and trigger the flash. I've got cheap wireless flash triggers, so I just took one off the camera and used that. -- Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Flash metering tip: one-button wireless trigger
I thought the handy tip was substituting a cheap wireless trigger for a long PC sync cord. From: P. J. Alling Mid to high end studio flash meters have had the ability to trigger flash, (in fact I couldn't imagine flash meters not having that capability), for at least 30 years. I don't think I've ever used a low end flash meter, is there such a beast? It's nice to know that Cowboy supplies the correct patch cords. Nice little write up. On 6/14/2012 10:32 AM, Bruce Walker wrote: I discovered a handy flash metering workflow trick and wrote up a little article on it ... http://blog.brucemwalker.com/2012/06/flash-metering-tip-one-button-wireless.html The Pentax content is that the included product shot was taken with my K20D, DA* 16-50/2.8, f/11, 125th, 200 ISO. AF160-FC in a Westcott Mini Apollo softbox. Cheers! -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Flash metering tip: one-button wireless trigger
Well, no. I'm assuming that we're *already* using wireless triggers and receivers instead of a long PC sync cord. This is pretty common now that these things can be had for $10 each now. I'm showing how you can simplify the arm meter, press button on trigger to fire flash, read meter process down to just press button on meter and read it. Quicker and more reliable. On Thu, Jun 14, 2012 at 5:15 PM, John Sessoms jsessoms...@nc.rr.com wrote: I thought the handy tip was substituting a cheap wireless trigger for a long PC sync cord. From: P. J. Alling Mid to high end studio flash meters have had the ability to trigger flash, (in fact I couldn't imagine flash meters not having that capability), for at least 30 years. I don't think I've ever used a low end flash meter, is there such a beast? It's nice to know that Cowboy supplies the correct patch cords. Nice little write up. On 6/14/2012 10:32 AM, Bruce Walker wrote: I discovered a handy flash metering workflow trick and wrote up a little article on it ... http://blog.brucemwalker.com/2012/06/flash-metering-tip-one-button-wireless.html The Pentax content is that the included product shot was taken with my K20D, DA* 16-50/2.8, f/11, 125th, 200 ISO. AF160-FC in a Westcott Mini Apollo softbox. Cheers! -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- -bmw -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
Is there a live view histogram on the K7, i.e., watch the histogram change as you change the EV values? On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 3:09 PM, J.C. O'Connell hifis...@gate.net wrote: I use my istDS camera in manual mode most of the time. I use the LCD and histogram as my meter and shoot raw. Works good for me. -- J.C. O'Connell (mailto:hifis...@gate.net) Join the CD PLAYER DISC Discussions : http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/cdplayers/ http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/cdsound/ -Original Message- From: pdml-boun...@pdml.net [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of Paul Sorenson Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 2:54 PM To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List Subject: Re: metering question I'll throw one more suggestion into the mix - especially since there's such a wide dynamic range between the highlights and shadows. Consider getting and learning to use an incident meter. Minolta, Gossen, Pentax, Sekonic are usually considered the standards. I have a cheapy (relatively speaking) Shepherd Polaris and have found it to be quite accurate. It will do incident and reflected light as well as flash and multiple flash measurements. If you meter the highlights and shadows accurately to determine range of exposure you can shoot manual and adjust your exposure for highlights, shadows or somewhere in between. http://www.adorama.com/SBP.html -p On 8/28/2010 10:13 AM, Christine Aguila wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest Big thanks, Christine No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3099 - Release Date: 08/28/10 01:34:00 -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- Steve Desjardins -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
OK, I found it and there is. It strikes me that the Live View version of JCO's method should give you the best overall metering info. Aside from the different advantages to using a spot meter, why not do this? On Tue, Aug 31, 2010 at 10:26 PM, Steven Desjardins drd1...@gmail.com wrote: Is there a live view histogram on the K7, i.e., watch the histogram change as you change the EV values? On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 3:09 PM, J.C. O'Connell hifis...@gate.net wrote: I use my istDS camera in manual mode most of the time. I use the LCD and histogram as my meter and shoot raw. Works good for me. -- J.C. O'Connell (mailto:hifis...@gate.net) Join the CD PLAYER DISC Discussions : http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/cdplayers/ http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/cdsound/ -Original Message- From: pdml-boun...@pdml.net [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of Paul Sorenson Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 2:54 PM To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List Subject: Re: metering question I'll throw one more suggestion into the mix - especially since there's such a wide dynamic range between the highlights and shadows. Consider getting and learning to use an incident meter. Minolta, Gossen, Pentax, Sekonic are usually considered the standards. I have a cheapy (relatively speaking) Shepherd Polaris and have found it to be quite accurate. It will do incident and reflected light as well as flash and multiple flash measurements. If you meter the highlights and shadows accurately to determine range of exposure you can shoot manual and adjust your exposure for highlights, shadows or somewhere in between. http://www.adorama.com/SBP.html -p On 8/28/2010 10:13 AM, Christine Aguila wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest Big thanks, Christine No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3099 - Release Date: 08/28/10 01:34:00 -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- Steve Desjardins -- Steve Desjardins -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 11:09 AM, mike wilson m.9.wil...@ntlworld.com wrote: I like the first two more than the rest. How bizarre is that? Me too. As to the way I would meter... I usually meter similar to what Larry suggests. - Set desire ISO, probably 400 - Set for spot meter, manual mode - Set desire A for the desire DOF - meter the object with the green button But instead of chimping, try to use zone system :) -Pasvorn -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering for film
On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 10:20 PM, Boris Liberman bori...@gmail.com wrote: Methinks that with negative film the precision of metering is less important than with digital. I am not saying that meter can show you any number, but that the tolerance or leeway is more with film than with digital, even if you shoot raw. Perhaps, it has to do with the difference in how film and sensor react to over and/or underexposure. I agree with Boris. Looking at some of Fuji Negative's current data sheet, it said that you can do up to +3, and down to -1. Also, my understanding was (at the time I was shooting film) that if you give 'em a roll that is constantly over/under exposed, they might be able to compensate for it in a uniform way... Do you mean like push, and pull? I don't think labs in a drugstore do that. I may be totally wrong on both counts as well... Boris P.S. I still remember going out with my Voigtlander Perkeo I folder and not having much problems with exposure at all. I'd take one reading just before I go out with my camera meter (MZ-6) and then set the exposure accordingly. Little folder has no meter of its own... PSS I think that is the best way. :) -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering for film
On 8/29/2010 10:23 AM, Pasvorn Boonmark wrote: Do you mean like push, and pull? I don't think labs in a drugstore do that. Neither. I don't deal with drugstore labs or their equivalent though. What I observed (IIRC) is that once they processed the film, they pass it through the printing machine that initially does some kind of scan or prescan. I mean, they obviously don't print optically with enlarger... So this machine, when it sees that the film is over or underdeveloped, it tries to compensate. It might yield badly looking prints, but that's what I remember anyway. Boris -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
On 28/8/10, paul stenquist, discombobulated, unleashed: I think flash fill is the obvious answer. You'll rarely find a pro PJ photographer shooting in daylight without a good flash mounted. It's the best way to bring light to the foreground. Like this :-) http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=7707074 -- Cheers, Cotty ___/\__ || (O) | People, Places, Pastiche -- http://www.cottysnaps.com _ -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
I'd spot meter for the skin tone highlights and go down the high contrast route, The structure and shadows will create some very interesting patterns. DS On 28 August 2010 23:13, Christine Aguila cagu...@earthlink.net wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest Big thanks, Christine -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
On Aug 29, 2010, at 5:33 AM, Cotty wrote: On 28/8/10, paul stenquist, discombobulated, unleashed: I think flash fill is the obvious answer. You'll rarely find a pro PJ photographer shooting in daylight without a good flash mounted. It's the best way to bring light to the foreground. Like this :-) http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=7707074 Yep! Cheers, Cotty ___/\__ || (O) | People, Places, Pastiche -- http://www.cottysnaps.com _ -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
On 29/8/10, paul stenquist, discombobulated, unleashed: http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=7707074 Yep! Well that's an absolute classic case - and very evenly matched up, you've got evening (I presume) sunlight hitting the building and even the guy's face (black T, blue cap, my gut) and lots of shadow that needs filling. Great job there. -- Cheers, Cotty ___/\__ || (O) | People, Places, Pastiche -- http://www.cottysnaps.com _ -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
On Aug 29, 2010, at 4:49 PM, Cotty wrote: On 29/8/10, paul stenquist, discombobulated, unleashed: http://photo.net/photodb/photo?photo_id=7707074 Yep! Well that's an absolute classic case - and very evenly matched up, you've got evening (I presume) sunlight hitting the building and even the guy's face (black T, blue cap, my gut) and lots of shadow that needs filling. Great job there. Thanks Cotty. You're analysis is correct. The evening sun is crosslight, coming from behind the building, so it's hitting the side of the building and the left side of the guys face. But everyone in the foreground is in deep shadow. Not unlike those under the L shots Christine was attempting. Going tight on her subject there with a long lens would have the same effect as it would have produced here: a people shot without the environment that makes it interesting. Paul Cheers, Cotty ___/\__ || (O) | People, Places, Pastiche -- http://www.cottysnaps.com _ -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering for film
From: Boris Liberman On 8/29/2010 10:23 AM, Pasvorn Boonmark wrote: Do you mean like push, and pull? I don't think labs in a drugstore do that. Neither. I don't deal with drugstore labs or their equivalent though. What I observed (IIRC) is that once they processed the film, they pass it through the printing machine that initially does some kind of scan or prescan. I mean, they obviously don't print optically with enlarger... So this machine, when it sees that the film is over or underdeveloped, it tries to compensate. It might yield badly looking prints, but that's what I remember anyway. Most of the one hour labs are digital hybrid and have a film scanner built into the printer. The negatives are scanned and images are basically exposed on the paper using lasers. The controls available to the operator are pretty minimal, but the automatic operations can cope pretty well with over-exposed negatives. Under-exposed is another matter. The machine can also print from a positive - unmounted slide film strip - but most operators would freak out. It's not that hard, just one button among many hidden down in the menus, but now-a-days most operators run totally automatic and haven't a clue what's available even from the menus. A bigger problem lately is getting the film developed. A lot of places are pulling the film processor and replacing it with a wide carriage ink-jet for poster size prints. It's getting so you have to send the film off to be processed, and it ain't even over-night. Even Walmart is pulling out their film processors. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering for film
On Sun, Aug 29, 2010 at 12:26 AM, Boris Liberman bori...@gmail.com wrote: Neither. I don't deal with drugstore labs or their equivalent though. What I observed (IIRC) is that once they processed the film, they pass it through the printing machine that initially does some kind of scan or prescan. I mean, they obviously don't print optically with enlarger... So this machine, when it sees that the film is over or underdeveloped, it tries to compensate. It might yield badly looking prints, but that's what I remember anyway. Oh, yes. That. I went to Wolf camera a lot. They told me that you can look at the back of the print and tell how much post-adjustment has been done when print. -Pasvorn -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
metering question
I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest Big thanks, Christine -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
Christine, Wow that is really challenging light when you're using a wide angle lens. The bright sunlight beyond 'under the tracks' really biases the exposures. The first 3 shots with the K-20 are just too dark. It looks like the K-7 did better, but those blow out the sunlight to see into the shadows. I see a lot of 'chimping' in your future. Or maybe HDR? Regards, Bob S. On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 10:13 AM, Christine Aguila cagu...@earthlink.net wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest Big thanks, Christine -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
RE: metering question
From: Christine Aguila I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest Big thanks, Christine From my point of view, you don't have a metering problem. You *may* have a lighting problem depending on what you're trying to accomplish. Looks to me like you need to add light in your shadow areas to accomplish what I think you're trying to do. I'd use a cheap radio slave a Vivitar 285HV strobe held off camera (or on a stand) to provide fill light. I can also do it with my dedicated Pentax flashes, but it takes more work because I have to think about it a lot harder to get them to do what I want them to do. The 285 has a sensor mounted on the front and can automatically light the subject for a given exposure. If you set your camera at ISO 200 and set the 285 to the yellow band, it provides light to expose the subject at F/4. Your shutter speed then controls how much ambient light is combined with flash. For the first one I'd have set the camera to ISO 200, set the 285's sensor to the yellow band, ignore the dial on the side of the 285, and pulled the flash head back for wide. I'd install the optional WA diffuser in the 285 if you can find one. Shoot manual at f/4 1/60 - bracketing 1/30 and 1/125. And, there you have a four paragraph summation of my summer semester course in small format. FWIW - at ISO 200 Yellow = F/4, Red = F/8, Cyan = F/11 and Magenta = F/16 -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
As expected, the k7 did a much better job of metering. I think you're about right with those. You have to expect the somewhat blown backgrounds if your subjects are properly exposed. I might shoot a test or two with multipoint metering, look at the histo, then adjust exposure comp if necessary. That's pretty much the way I approach every metering situation these days. Paul On Aug 28, 2010, at 11:13 AM, Christine Aguila wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest Big thanks, Christine -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
On Aug 28, 2010, at 8:13 AM, Christine Aguila wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. I might put the camera on spot metering and use that to set the exposure on the subject that I want to shoot, but I'd probably put the camera in manual, press the green button, chimp and adjust. At first, it'll take a long time, but pretty soon you'll look at it and say cloudy day, subject is under the tracks, background is in shade..., and know what setting to use. John's suggestions seem spot on. The alternative is to shoot anytime that there isn't direct sunlight, or to find spots where your background is in shadows. I'd look for spots where the lighting works the best, or the least bad. This may well mean shooting on a monopod late in the afternoon. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest Big thanks, Christine -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
Christine - this looks like an interesting project for many reasons. I can't give you any specifics, but here are a few things to think about. This is a situation where shooting in raw can be very helpful. You'll be able to squeeze more dynamic range from your images with raw originals. Maybe a stop or two. The new processing engine and noise reduction in the latest versions of Adobe Camera Raw and/or Lightroom have made a big difference when shooting at high ISO settings. I'm feeling like I can safely go at least 1 full stop higher with the new software. This is also one of those situations where a correct exposure is defined by you and only you. Even with Matrix metering, this isn't exactly an average situation. This might be one of those times when you consider experimenting with the spot metering option. This is a challenging situation and I'm looking forward to following your progress. Thanks, gs George Sinos gsi...@gmail.com www.georgesphotos.net On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 10:13 AM, Christine Aguila cagu...@earthlink.net wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest Big thanks, Christine -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
RE: metering question
I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest I would shoot at the sensor's 'natural' iso - 100, 160 or whatever, which will give you the most dynamic range. Meter for the highlights and use the histogram to make sure you're exposing as far to the right as you can. Then use LR to pull the shadows to the left if that's needed. If you do this you will ensure the maximum range without blowing out the highlights. If the shadows turn to black then you've lost less then you would if you hadn't expoised to the right. If you want detail in the shadows then you need to be very careful that you exclude extreme highlights from the frame. It's the same as shooting slides, except for the histogram trick. Bob -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
Christine Aguila wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest Big thanks, Christine I like the first two more than the rest. How bizarre is that? -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
I'll throw one more suggestion into the mix - especially since there's such a wide dynamic range between the highlights and shadows. Consider getting and learning to use an incident meter. Minolta, Gossen, Pentax, Sekonic are usually considered the standards. I have a cheapy (relatively speaking) Shepherd Polaris and have found it to be quite accurate. It will do incident and reflected light as well as flash and multiple flash measurements. If you meter the highlights and shadows accurately to determine range of exposure you can shoot manual and adjust your exposure for highlights, shadows or somewhere in between. http://www.adorama.com/SBP.html -p On 8/28/2010 10:13 AM, Christine Aguila wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest Big thanks, Christine No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3099 - Release Date: 08/28/10 01:34:00 -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
RE: metering question
I use my istDS camera in manual mode most of the time. I use the LCD and histogram as my meter and shoot raw. Works good for me. -- J.C. O'Connell (mailto:hifis...@gate.net) Join the CD PLAYER DISC Discussions : http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/cdplayers/ http://launch.groups.yahoo.com/group/cdsound/ -Original Message- From: pdml-boun...@pdml.net [mailto:pdml-boun...@pdml.net] On Behalf Of Paul Sorenson Sent: Saturday, August 28, 2010 2:54 PM To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List Subject: Re: metering question I'll throw one more suggestion into the mix - especially since there's such a wide dynamic range between the highlights and shadows. Consider getting and learning to use an incident meter. Minolta, Gossen, Pentax, Sekonic are usually considered the standards. I have a cheapy (relatively speaking) Shepherd Polaris and have found it to be quite accurate. It will do incident and reflected light as well as flash and multiple flash measurements. If you meter the highlights and shadows accurately to determine range of exposure you can shoot manual and adjust your exposure for highlights, shadows or somewhere in between. http://www.adorama.com/SBP.html -p On 8/28/2010 10:13 AM, Christine Aguila wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest Big thanks, Christine No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3099 - Release Date: 08/28/10 01:34:00 -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
metering for film
I decided to run a test roll through my Argus C3 to see if it still works. I noticed that the hand held meter seemed to match the meter in my SRT-101 but was a stop or two off from the meter in the K-x. If the K-x said 1/60 the hand held meter said 1/250 sometimes. Other times reading off a grey card, they matched a bit more closely. So, I tried shooting test shots with it both at the hand held metering, and using the metering from the K-x. Oddly enough, there isn't an obvious, huge difference in the way that the prints look. I suspect that Walgreen's printer automatically corrects. I'm not too thrilled with the way the kodacolor 400 that I had laying around looks. Fortunately I still have a bunch of 200 and some 100. It is so weird going back to the C3, which apart from a few shots with my dad's spotty was the camera I started with. Remembering to wind the film and cock the shutter separately. Having to look through a separate window to focus. The shutter only goes up to 1/300, and so forth. -- Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
As a footnote to this, flash would do a lot here to bring the foreground exposure closer to the background. I'd probably start with a full measure and then try maybe a minus half stop. You won't even see it in the results, but the results will be better. Paul On Aug 28, 2010, at 1:01 PM, paul stenquist wrote: As expected, the k7 did a much better job of metering. I think you're about right with those. You have to expect the somewhat blown backgrounds if your subjects are properly exposed. I might shoot a test or two with multipoint metering, look at the histo, then adjust exposure comp if necessary. That's pretty much the way I approach every metering situation these days. Paul On Aug 28, 2010, at 11:13 AM, Christine Aguila wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest Big thanks, Christine -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
RE: metering for film
I decided to run a test roll through my Argus C3 to see if it still works. I noticed that the hand held meter seemed to match the meter in my SRT-101 but was a stop or two off from the meter in the K-x. If the K-x said 1/60 the hand held meter said 1/250 sometimes. Other times reading off a grey card, they matched a bit more closely. The man with one watch always knows the time; the man with two watches, never. As it is with watches, so it is with lightmeters. So, I tried shooting test shots with it both at the hand held metering, and using the metering from the K-x. Oddly enough, there isn't an obvious, huge difference in the way that the prints look. I suspect that Walgreen's printer automatically corrects. I'm not too thrilled with the way the kodacolor 400 that I had laying around looks. Fortunately I still have a bunch of 200 and some 100. It is so weird going back to the C3, which apart from a few shots with my dad's spotty was the camera I started with. Remembering to wind the film and cock the shutter separately. Having to look through a separate window to focus. The shutter only goes up to 1/300, and so forth. -- Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
On Aug 28, 2010, at 2:01 PM, Bob W wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest I would shoot at the sensor's 'natural' iso - 100, 160 or whatever, which will give you the most dynamic range. Meter for the highlights and use the histogram to make sure you're exposing as far to the right as you can. If she meters for the highlights in this situation, she'll have nice pics of the background, but the main subjects will be lost. If she pumps up the shadows to restore them, they'll be noisy as hell. Paul Then use LR to pull the shadows to the left if that's needed. If you do this you will ensure the maximum range without blowing out the highlights. If the shadows turn to black then you've lost less then you would if you hadn't expoised to the right. If you want detail in the shadows then you need to be very careful that you exclude extreme highlights from the frame. It's the same as shooting slides, except for the histogram trick. Bob -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
Christine Aguila wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest Big thanks, Christine Good project idea. I quite like the first two, graphic and understated. It's just me, but I wouldn't like it if there was too much fiddling with the light. Maybe with a short tele, take closer shots that are easier to meter, while still keeping those noir-ish shadows. -- der...@iinet.net.au http://members.iinet.net.au/~derbyc -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
RE: metering question
I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest I would shoot at the sensor's 'natural' iso - 100, 160 or whatever, which will give you the most dynamic range. Meter for the highlights and use the histogram to make sure you're exposing as far to the right as you can. If she meters for the highlights in this situation, she'll have nice pics of the background, but the main subjects will be lost. If she pumps up the shadows to restore them, they'll be noisy as hell. Paul it's a trade-off between that and blown highlights. Then use LR to pull the shadows to the left if that's needed. If you do this you will ensure the maximum range without blowing out the highlights. If the shadows turn to black then you've lost less then you would if you hadn't expoised to the right. If you want detail in the shadows then you need to be very careful that you exclude extreme highlights from the frame. It's the same as shooting slides, except for the histogram trick. Bob -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
On Aug 28, 2010, at 3:44 PM, Derby Chang wrote: Christine Aguila wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest Big thanks, Christine Good project idea. I quite like the first two, graphic and understated. It's just me, but I wouldn't like it if there was too much fiddling with the light. Maybe with a short tele, take closer shots that are easier to meter, while still keeping those noir-ish shadows. I like the suggestion of using a longer lens and showing less background. In any case, I am certain that this will be a very educational project to embark upon, and I'm very interested to read and see what Christine learns in the process. -- Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
On Aug 28, 2010, at 6:46 PM, Bob W wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest I would shoot at the sensor's 'natural' iso - 100, 160 or whatever, which will give you the most dynamic range. Meter for the highlights and use the histogram to make sure you're exposing as far to the right as you can. If she meters for the highlights in this situation, she'll have nice pics of the background, but the main subjects will be lost. If she pumps up the shadows to restore them, they'll be noisy as hell. Paul it's a trade-off between that and blown highlights. The highlights are insignificant background elements.With film, exposing for highlights is okay. With digital, it's a no-no, because boosting shadows turns them to shit. In any case, boosting the shadows during exposure is the best solution here. Paul Then use LR to pull the shadows to the left if that's needed. If you do this you will ensure the maximum range without blowing out the highlights. If the shadows turn to black then you've lost less then you would if you hadn't expoised to the right. If you want detail in the shadows then you need to be very careful that you exclude extreme highlights from the frame. It's the same as shooting slides, except for the histogram trick. Bob -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
On Aug 28, 2010, at 7:35 PM, paul stenquist wrote: On Aug 28, 2010, at 6:46 PM, Bob W wrote: I'm going to plung into this project for the next year. I want to photograph people under the el tracks downtown. I would like to know how folks might meter for this project. The 1st 3 photos were taken with the K20D last year, and from the sax player on those photos were taken with the K7 this year. All photos were at ISO 1600 except the sax player, which was 800. You can see I've some challanges with light and shadow. All 7 photos here are *as shot* except for correction to level allignment for the K20D shots. http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest I would shoot at the sensor's 'natural' iso - 100, 160 or whatever, which will give you the most dynamic range. Meter for the highlights and use the histogram to make sure you're exposing as far to the right as you can. If she meters for the highlights in this situation, she'll have nice pics of the background, but the main subjects will be lost. If she pumps up the shadows to restore them, they'll be noisy as hell. Paul it's a trade-off between that and blown highlights. The highlights are insignificant background elements.With film, exposing for highlights is okay. With digital, it's a no-no, because boosting shadows turns them to shit. In any case, boosting the shadows during exposure is the best solution here. Paul I meant to say, boosting the shadows during exposure with flash is the best solution here. Given the distances, one is not likely to overlight them. But a simple check of the results and adjustment of flash exposure comp can control that. Paul Then use LR to pull the shadows to the left if that's needed. If you do this you will ensure the maximum range without blowing out the highlights. If the shadows turn to black then you've lost less then you would if you hadn't expoised to the right. If you want detail in the shadows then you need to be very careful that you exclude extreme highlights from the frame. It's the same as shooting slides, except for the histogram trick. Bob -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
RE: metering question
http://www.caguila.com/caguila/trackstest I would shoot at the sensor's 'natural' iso - 100, 160 or whatever, which will give you the most dynamic range. Meter for the highlights and use the histogram to make sure you're exposing as far to the right as you can. If she meters for the highlights in this situation, she'll have nice pics of the background, but the main subjects will be lost. If she pumps up the shadows to restore them, they'll be noisy as hell. Paul it's a trade-off between that and blown highlights. The highlights are insignificant background elements.With film, exposing for highlights is okay. With digital, it's a no-no, because boosting shadows turns them to shit. In any case, boosting the shadows during exposure is the best solution here. Paul when the highlights are blown they become very significant background elements. Exposing to the right of the histogram is all about exposing for the highlights, and a very important element of digital photography. Far from being a no-no. Furthermore, I did not recommend boosting the shadows, I recommended dragging them to the left of the histogram to make most use of the dynamic range if the shadows weren't already hard up to the left. I did suggest later in my original reply that Christine should be looking to exclude highlights from the frame when the contrast is too great. Personally I would try to avoid shooting under such extreme ranges of contrast unless I was deliberately trying to make something of them. Anyway, she has a range of options and would be well advised to try them all and see what works best for her -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
On 29 August 2010 09:55, Bob W p...@web-options.com wrote: I did suggest later in my original reply that Christine should be looking to exclude highlights from the frame when the contrast is too great. Personally I would try to avoid shooting under such extreme ranges of contrast unless I was deliberately trying to make something of them. This is similar to my perspective, basically shoot with significant highlights behind if you want to achieve silhouettes, otherwise flash fill would be a requisite otherwise the highlights will become a significant distraction IMO. Flash fill probably isn't desirable given the project outline. -- Rob Studdert (Digital Image Studio) Tel: +61-418-166-870 UTC +10 Hours Gmail, eBay, Skype, Twitter, Facebook, Picasa: distudio -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
On Aug 28, 2010, at 8:02 PM, Rob Studdert wrote: On 29 August 2010 09:55, Bob W p...@web-options.com wrote: I did suggest later in my original reply that Christine should be looking to exclude highlights from the frame when the contrast is too great. Personally I would try to avoid shooting under such extreme ranges of contrast unless I was deliberately trying to make something of them. This is similar to my perspective, basically shoot with significant highlights behind if you want to achieve silhouettes, otherwise flash fill would be a requisite otherwise the highlights will become a significant distraction IMO. Flash fill probably isn't desirable given the project outline. I think flash fill is the obvious answer. You'll rarely find a pro PJ photographer shooting in daylight without a good flash mounted. It's the best way to bring light to the foreground. Paul -- Rob Studdert (Digital Image Studio) Tel: +61-418-166-870 UTC +10 Hours Gmail, eBay, Skype, Twitter, Facebook, Picasa: distudio -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering for film
I have tested my hand helds with my istD and K10D and my D1. Digital cameras always showed a difference of several stops from the hand held. I use the meter on the camera now. Dave On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 5:51 PM, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote: I decided to run a test roll through my Argus C3 to see if it still works. I noticed that the hand held meter seemed to match the meter in my SRT-101 but was a stop or two off from the meter in the K-x. If the K-x said 1/60 the hand held meter said 1/250 sometimes. Other times reading off a grey card, they matched a bit more closely. So, I tried shooting test shots with it both at the hand held metering, and using the metering from the K-x. Oddly enough, there isn't an obvious, huge difference in the way that the prints look. I suspect that Walgreen's printer automatically corrects. I'm not too thrilled with the way the kodacolor 400 that I had laying around looks. Fortunately I still have a bunch of 200 and some 100. It is so weird going back to the C3, which apart from a few shots with my dad's spotty was the camera I started with. Remembering to wind the film and cock the shutter separately. Having to look through a separate window to focus. The shutter only goes up to 1/300, and so forth. -- Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- Documenting Life in Rural Ontario. www.caughtinmotion.com http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/ York Region, Ontario, Canada -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
Everyone has made good suggestions, and I aim to try all of them. I'd like to do a small gallery of this subject following the seasons and holidays. In the next month or so, I'll post my 1st go round. I see this as a challenging project, but hopefully the ole'college try will help to overcome the difficulties. We'll see how it goes. Thanks everyone--very much appreciated. Cheers, Christine -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering for film
On Sat, Aug 28, 2010 at 9:10 PM, David J Brooks pentko...@gmail.com wrote: I have tested my hand helds with my istD and K10D and my D1. Digital cameras always showed a difference of several stops from the hand held. I use the meter on the camera now. Dave Reflective and incident meters read differently. If you want to compare, compare a spot meter (like the Pentax unit) to the spot meter in the camera. Expect the handheld to overexpose by a bit because your lenses have a T stop slower than their F stop so you lose a bit of light. Note that Nikon in particular tunes their meters to the sensor and may be well off what the expected reading is. The notional ISO on a digital isn't necessarily the actual ISO you're getting. Older Canon's and at least some Panasonic m43 bodies understate the ISO, with the actual value being 1/3-1/2 stop faster than expected. Some Nikon's (cough*D300*cough) are more than a little bit optimistic at high ISO ratings (the D300's Hi1, notionally ISO 6400, is in fact about ISO 4000) -Adam. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
Best of outcomes, Christine! I haven't read but a snippet or two of the many suggestions, but I'd gather that you'll work pretty much exclusively with a flash either mounted or in hand and with a variety of compensation settings. In my case it would be a complete crap shoot. Jack --- On Sat, 8/28/10, Christine Aguila cagu...@earthlink.net wrote: From: Christine Aguila cagu...@earthlink.net Subject: Re: metering question To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net Date: Saturday, August 28, 2010, 6:15 PM Everyone has made good suggestions, and I aim to try all of them. I'd like to do a small gallery of this subject following the seasons and holidays. In the next month or so, I'll post my 1st go round. I see this as a challenging project, but hopefully the ole'college try will help to overcome the difficulties. We'll see how it goes. Thanks everyone--very much appreciated. Cheers, Christine -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering for film
On 8/29/2010 12:51 AM, Larry Colen wrote: I decided to run a test roll through my Argus C3 to see if it still works. I noticed that the hand held meter seemed to match the meter in my SRT-101 but was a stop or two off from the meter in the K-x. If the K-x said 1/60 the hand held meter said 1/250 sometimes. Other times reading off a grey card, they matched a bit more closely. So, I tried shooting test shots with it both at the hand held metering, and using the metering from the K-x. Oddly enough, there isn't an obvious, huge difference in the way that the prints look. I suspect that Walgreen's printer automatically corrects. Methinks that with negative film the precision of metering is less important than with digital. I am not saying that meter can show you any number, but that the tolerance or leeway is more with film than with digital, even if you shoot raw. Perhaps, it has to do with the difference in how film and sensor react to over and/or underexposure. Also, my understanding was (at the time I was shooting film) that if you give 'em a roll that is constantly over/under exposed, they might be able to compensate for it in a uniform way... I may be totally wrong on both counts as well... Boris P.S. I still remember going out with my Voigtlander Perkeo I folder and not having much problems with exposure at all. I'd take one reading just before I go out with my camera meter (MZ-6) and then set the exposure accordingly. Little folder has no meter of its own... -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: metering question
Christine, here is a number of ideas that came to my mind, numbered in
total randomness...
1. All shots you presented seem exposed ok to me.
2. K7 is more prone to burning highlights, therefore you might want to
go like this:
a. set it to spot metering
b. choose the point in the scene that you would want to be the
brightest, measure off this point, add a bit of positive exposure
compensation ('cause meter will make it gray, while you'd want it
brighter) and take a shot.
c. take care of the shadow areas in post
3. Why not to just bracket based on what your favorite metering mode
gives you?
4. Also, in K7 in liveview mode you can see the histogram in real time.
So you can probably be in hyper-p or hyper-m mode and play with exposure
by the histogram as you go. You might have to revert to manual focusing
though.
5. K7 has extended dynamic range mode, that proved useful to me, for
example, when I was in States this February and taking pictures in the
snowy park...
Personally, I'd simply take many shots and rely on my camera's matrix
metering.
Finally, cranking up ISO reduces your camera effective dynamic range
(easier to get blown highlights or totally black shadows), so perhaps
you might want to keep ISO below ISO 400...
HTH.
Boris
--
PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List
PDML@pdml.net
http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow
the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
Bruce, assuming that center weighted simulation with matrix metering sensor is done reasonably well, I see no reason to have major discrepancies between center weighted meters of various cameras. Thus, Bill's mention surprises me as well... On Tue, Mar 2, 2010 at 9:46 AM, Bruce Dayton bkday...@daytonphoto.com wrote: Good information Boris. I think my style has not seen the metering problems you and Paul have reported. I used the *istD, K10D, K20D and K-x. But I primarily use Center Weighted metering. I have not noticed much of any problems when used in the same fashion as the film cameras - ie: be aware of your metering and subject reflectivity. That was why I was surprised by Bill Robb's mention of a difference with the Center weighted metering on the K7. I can say that I have been trying the matrix metering on the K-x a bit and it seems to do pretty well. It probably is an improvement over the K20D. Anyway, I appreciate all replies to help me understand better. -- Best regards, Bruce Monday, March 1, 2010, 9:42:27 PM, you wrote: BL Bruce, I don't have K20D but I have K10D. So my comparison would be BL between K10 and K-7. Here goes. BL Generally, my shooting workflow with K10D was to get on location, make BL a shot or two and watch the histogram. Then I would usually decide to BL give it something between -0.3 to -0.7 Ev of compensation. Then I BL would go on shooting. If I notice the scene somewhat different from BL those few initial shots, I would review the histogram and reconsider BL the compensation. Thusly, I would have spent lots of time chimping and BL mostly chimping for histogram. Number of times I would have lost a BL shot because I wasn't speedy enough to notice the difference in BL lighting. The stability and/or reliability of the meter in K10D had BL much to be desired. BL With K-7 I just don't bother. It almost always produces a RAW file BL that can be brought to the good shape in post or simply produces spot BL on exposure. The only thing I need to decide before hand is whether to BL turn on the DR extension. E.g. shooting in that snowy park with BL highlight expansion on and 2/3 of shade expansion proved useful so as BL to not loose bright snow and dark trees. I've lost few shots with K-7 BL due to metering, but it is far less a fraction than in case of K10D. BL I always shoot in matrix metering in hyper program mode - suits me the best. BL On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 9:46 PM, Bruce Dayton BL bkday...@daytonphoto.com wrote: It has been stated by several K7 owners that the metering has improved quite a bit over the K20D. I am curious as to the details of this difference. Are we talking about matrix metering and automatic modes on the camera, or are we talking about center weighted and manual exposure settings... Hopefully you get my gist. Can those who have noticed this please enlighten me a bit on what exactly you have noticed? I can say that the matrix metering in my K-x seems to do a better job that my K20D - of course, I mostly use center weighted so I'm not sure if that matters so much. Or perhaps I use center weighted because it is more predictable. Any thoughts and ideas are appreciated. -- Bruce -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. BL -- BL Boris -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- Boris -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
Yup, it sure should. William Robb - Original Message - From: drd1...@gmail.com To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List pdml@pdml.net Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 9:58 PM Subject: Re: Metering - K7 Should the second K7 be K20? --Original Message-- From: William Robb Sender: pdml-boun...@pdml.net To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List ReplyTo: Pentax-Discuss Mail List Subject: Re: Metering - K7 Sent: Mar 1, 2010 9:58 PM - Original Message - From: Bruce Dayton Subject: Re: Metering - K7 Your input is much appreciated. I am somewhat surprised that you are seeing such a difference with center weighted metering. It would seem like that is something Pentax would be able to do reasonably well whether it was digital or film. I wonder if perhaps there is something more to do with dynamic range of the sensor on the K7. Earlier digital models may have had narrower range than the current K7 which would show up as metering inconsistencies. The DR of the K7 doesn't seem any (or at least not appreciably) longer than the K7. The new meter is accurate, the old one either isn't, or is very easily fooled. William Robb -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. Steve Desjardins -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
On Tue, Mar 2, 2010 at 12:42 AM, Boris Liberman bori...@gmail.com wrote: Bruce, I don't have K20D but I have K10D. So my comparison would be between K10 and K-7. Here goes. Generally, my shooting workflow with K10D was to get on location, make a shot or two and watch the histogram. Then I would usually decide to give it something between -0.3 to -0.7 Ev of compensation. Then I would go on shooting. If I notice the scene somewhat different from those few initial shots, I would review the histogram and reconsider the compensation. Thusly, I would have spent lots of time chimping and mostly chimping for histogram. Number of times I would have lost a shot because I wasn't speedy enough to notice the difference in lighting. The stability and/or reliability of the meter in K10D had much to be desired. Sounds like my work flow only back ward. I need +0.3 to =0.7 and +1.0 at times with my K-10D. Zero EV or +0.3 is pretty much all that is required for D1H, D2H and D200, if needed at all. Dave -- Documenting Life in Rural Ontario. www.caughtinmotion.com http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/ York Region, Ontario, Canada -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
2010/3/1 Bruce Dayton bkday...@daytonphoto.com: It has been stated by several K7 owners that the metering has improved quite a bit over the K20D. I am curious as to the details of this difference. Are we talking about matrix metering and automatic modes on the camera, or are we talking about center weighted and manual exposure settings... For my part it's matrix metering. My experience is that the metering is less sensitive to small, bright light sources, like specular reflexes, streetlights, etc. I also find that the metering is more consistent across pictures of the same scene with minor variations in composition, for example, than was the case for K10/20. In my opinion this is no less than one can expect from raising the number of metering sites from 11 to 77. :-) It gives a lot more room for weighting of the metering loci. I'm also very satisfied with the flash metering of the K-7, but I can't compare this to the performance of K10/20 because I apparently had a slightly malfunctioning flash at the time. All I can say is that I like it the way it happens in the K-7. Jostein -- http://www.alunfoto.no/galleri/ http://alunfoto.blogspot.com -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
I do not own a K10 anymore but I remember I 'brutaly' tested integrated flash exposure by firing it in front of a mirror. * The K10 shot was almost unusable, the whole mirror completely eaten by the flash light. * The K7 shot however was different, still eaten by the flash light of course, but I could use the rest of the mirror image if I wanted. Only the area near the flash reflection was unusable. On Tue, Mar 2, 2010 at 5:30 PM, AlunFoto alunf...@gmail.com wrote: 2010/3/1 Bruce Dayton bkday...@daytonphoto.com: It has been stated by several K7 owners that the metering has improved quite a bit over the K20D. I am curious as to the details of this difference. Are we talking about matrix metering and automatic modes on the camera, or are we talking about center weighted and manual exposure settings... For my part it's matrix metering. My experience is that the metering is less sensitive to small, bright light sources, like specular reflexes, streetlights, etc. I also find that the metering is more consistent across pictures of the same scene with minor variations in composition, for example, than was the case for K10/20. In my opinion this is no less than one can expect from raising the number of metering sites from 11 to 77. :-) It gives a lot more room for weighting of the metering loci. I'm also very satisfied with the flash metering of the K-7, but I can't compare this to the performance of K10/20 because I apparently had a slightly malfunctioning flash at the time. All I can say is that I like it the way it happens in the K-7. Jostein -- http://www.alunfoto.no/galleri/ http://alunfoto.blogspot.com -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- Thibault Massart aka Thibouille/Thibs -- Photo: K-7, Sigma 28/1.8 macro, FA50/1.4, DA40Ltd, K30/2.8, DA16-45, DA50-135, DA50-200, 360FGZ ... Laptop: Macbook 13 Unibody SnowLeo/Win7 Programing: Delphi 2009 -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Metering - K7
It has been stated by several K7 owners that the metering has improved quite a bit over the K20D. I am curious as to the details of this difference. Are we talking about matrix metering and automatic modes on the camera, or are we talking about center weighted and manual exposure settings... Hopefully you get my gist. Can those who have noticed this please enlighten me a bit on what exactly you have noticed? I can say that the matrix metering in my K-x seems to do a better job that my K20D - of course, I mostly use center weighted so I'm not sure if that matters so much. Or perhaps I use center weighted because it is more predictable. Any thoughts and ideas are appreciated. -- Bruce -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
On Mar 1, 2010, at 2:46 PM, Bruce Dayton wrote: It has been stated by several K7 owners that the metering has improved quite a bit over the K20D. I am curious as to the details of this difference. Are we talking about matrix metering and automatic modes on the camera, or are we talking about center weighted and manual exposure settings... Hopefully you get my gist. Can those who have noticed this please enlighten me a bit on what exactly you have noticed? I can say that the matrix metering in my K-x seems to do a better job that my K20D - of course, I mostly use center weighted so I'm not sure if that matters so much. Or perhaps I use center weighted because it is more predictable. Any thoughts and ideas are appreciated. I've observed a substantial difference in terms of matrix metering in all modes. Spot metering is the only other variation I employ regularly, and it seemed fine on previous Pentax cameras. But matrix used to vary greatly in accuracy and deviation from correct exposure on both the k10 and 20. The K7 is a world apart. Paul -- Bruce -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
- Original Message - From: Bruce Dayton Subject: Metering - K7 It has been stated by several K7 owners that the metering has improved quite a bit over the K20D. I am curious as to the details of this difference. Are we talking about matrix metering and automatic modes on the camera, or are we talking about center weighted and manual exposure settings... Hopefully you get my gist. Can those who have noticed this please enlighten me a bit on what exactly you have noticed? I can say that the matrix metering in my K-x seems to do a better job that my K20D - of course, I mostly use center weighted so I'm not sure if that matters so much. Or perhaps I use center weighted because it is more predictable. Any thoughts and ideas are appreciated. I was never able to use matrix metering with my K10/K20, it was that bad. Center weighted was better, but by saying this, keep in mind we are deciding which dog has nicer breath. I haven't used matrix on my K7, the last two cameras left too dirty a taste in my mouth to even try, but the center weighted does seem very accurate, much more like what I was used to with my Nikon F2s and F3. William Robb -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
On Mar 1, 2010, at 3:15 PM, William Robb wrote: - Original Message - From: Bruce Dayton Subject: Metering - K7 It has been stated by several K7 owners that the metering has improved quite a bit over the K20D. I am curious as to the details of this difference. Are we talking about matrix metering and automatic modes on the camera, or are we talking about center weighted and manual exposure settings... Hopefully you get my gist. Can those who have noticed this please enlighten me a bit on what exactly you have noticed? I can say that the matrix metering in my K-x seems to do a better job that my K20D - of course, I mostly use center weighted so I'm not sure if that matters so much. Or perhaps I use center weighted because it is more predictable. Any thoughts and ideas are appreciated. I was never able to use matrix metering with my K10/K20, it was that bad. Center weighted was better, but by saying this, keep in mind we are deciding which dog has nicer breath. Speck! -- Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
Hello paul, Thanks for the input. This is sort of what I expected. Matrix metering has always been a somewhat subjective, black art, as it were. So more consistency there is nice. I have mostly stayed away from matrix metering as I have not been able to rely upon it or predict any specific pattern. -- Bruce Monday, March 1, 2010, 12:14:11 PM, you wrote: ps I've observed a substantial difference in terms of matrix ps metering in all modes. Spot metering is the only other variation I ps employ regularly, and it seemed fine on previous Pentax cameras. ps But matrix used to vary greatly in accuracy and deviation from ps correct exposure on both the k10 and 20. The K7 is a world apart. ps Paul -- Bruce -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
Your input is much appreciated. I am somewhat surprised that you are seeing such a difference with center weighted metering. It would seem like that is something Pentax would be able to do reasonably well whether it was digital or film. I wonder if perhaps there is something more to do with dynamic range of the sensor on the K7. Earlier digital models may have had narrower range than the current K7 which would show up as metering inconsistencies. Any other experiences would be appreciated as well. -- Best regards, Bruce Monday, March 1, 2010, 3:15:27 PM, you wrote: WR - Original Message - WR From: Bruce Dayton WR Subject: Metering - K7 WR I was never able to use matrix metering with my K10/K20, it was that bad. WR Center weighted was better, but by saying this, keep in mind we are deciding WR which dog has nicer breath. WR I haven't used matrix on my K7, the last two cameras left too dirty a taste WR in my mouth to even try, but the center weighted does seem very accurate, WR much more like what I was used to with my Nikon F2s and F3. WR William Robb -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
On Mar 1, 2010, at 8:22 PM, Bruce Dayton wrote: Hello paul, Thanks for the input. This is sort of what I expected. Matrix metering has always been a somewhat subjective, black art, as it were. So more consistency there is nice. I have mostly stayed away from matrix metering as I have not been able to rely upon it or predict any specific pattern. Yep. I would guess that the accuracy of matrix depends more on software efficiency than meter calibration. Making a simple meter that's accurate would seem to be a no brainer, and the Pentax spot meters, which i would assume don't depend on programming, have always seemed accurate. Paul -- Bruce Monday, March 1, 2010, 12:14:11 PM, you wrote: ps I've observed a substantial difference in terms of matrix ps metering in all modes. Spot metering is the only other variation I ps employ regularly, and it seemed fine on previous Pentax cameras. ps But matrix used to vary greatly in accuracy and deviation from ps correct exposure on both the k10 and 20. The K7 is a world apart. ps Paul -- Bruce -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
I wondered about this too. A good sensor can compensate for metering errors, at least in principle. On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 8:28 PM, Bruce Dayton bkday...@daytonphoto.com wrote: Your input is much appreciated. I am somewhat surprised that you are seeing such a difference with center weighted metering. It would seem like that is something Pentax would be able to do reasonably well whether it was digital or film. I wonder if perhaps there is something more to do with dynamic range of the sensor on the K7. Earlier digital models may have had narrower range than the current K7 which would show up as metering inconsistencies. Any other experiences would be appreciated as well. -- Best regards, Bruce Monday, March 1, 2010, 3:15:27 PM, you wrote: WR - Original Message - WR From: Bruce Dayton WR Subject: Metering - K7 WR I was never able to use matrix metering with my K10/K20, it was that bad. WR Center weighted was better, but by saying this, keep in mind we are deciding WR which dog has nicer breath. WR I haven't used matrix on my K7, the last two cameras left too dirty a taste WR in my mouth to even try, but the center weighted does seem very accurate, WR much more like what I was used to with my Nikon F2s and F3. WR William Robb -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- Steve Desjardins -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
On Mar 1, 2010, at 8:58 PM, Steven Desjardins wrote: I wondered about this too. A good sensor can compensate for metering errors, at least in principle. True, but the K7 matrix meter is excellent at finding the midpoint. It's not a matter of having enough material in the shadows or highlights to save the exposure. It's more like nailing a good average exposure for a variety of scenes. I suspect it's mainly the result of good meter programming. Paul On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 8:28 PM, Bruce Dayton bkday...@daytonphoto.com wrote: Your input is much appreciated. I am somewhat surprised that you are seeing such a difference with center weighted metering. It would seem like that is something Pentax would be able to do reasonably well whether it was digital or film. I wonder if perhaps there is something more to do with dynamic range of the sensor on the K7. Earlier digital models may have had narrower range than the current K7 which would show up as metering inconsistencies. Any other experiences would be appreciated as well. -- Best regards, Bruce Monday, March 1, 2010, 3:15:27 PM, you wrote: WR - Original Message - WR From: Bruce Dayton WR Subject: Metering - K7 WR I was never able to use matrix metering with my K10/K20, it was that bad. WR Center weighted was better, but by saying this, keep in mind we are deciding WR which dog has nicer breath. WR I haven't used matrix on my K7, the last two cameras left too dirty a taste WR in my mouth to even try, but the center weighted does seem very accurate, WR much more like what I was used to with my Nikon F2s and F3. WR William Robb -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- Steve Desjardins -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
- Original Message - From: Bruce Dayton Subject: Re: Metering - K7 Your input is much appreciated. I am somewhat surprised that you are seeing such a difference with center weighted metering. It would seem like that is something Pentax would be able to do reasonably well whether it was digital or film. I wonder if perhaps there is something more to do with dynamic range of the sensor on the K7. Earlier digital models may have had narrower range than the current K7 which would show up as metering inconsistencies. The DR of the K7 doesn't seem any (or at least not appreciably) longer than the K7. The new meter is accurate, the old one either isn't, or is very easily fooled. William Robb -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
Should the second K7 be K20? --Original Message-- From: William Robb Sender: pdml-boun...@pdml.net To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List ReplyTo: Pentax-Discuss Mail List Subject: Re: Metering - K7 Sent: Mar 1, 2010 9:58 PM - Original Message - From: Bruce Dayton Subject: Re: Metering - K7 Your input is much appreciated. I am somewhat surprised that you are seeing such a difference with center weighted metering. It would seem like that is something Pentax would be able to do reasonably well whether it was digital or film. I wonder if perhaps there is something more to do with dynamic range of the sensor on the K7. Earlier digital models may have had narrower range than the current K7 which would show up as metering inconsistencies. The DR of the K7 doesn't seem any (or at least not appreciably) longer than the K7. The new meter is accurate, the old one either isn't, or is very easily fooled. William Robb -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. Steve Desjardins -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
Bruce, I don't have K20D but I have K10D. So my comparison would be between K10 and K-7. Here goes. Generally, my shooting workflow with K10D was to get on location, make a shot or two and watch the histogram. Then I would usually decide to give it something between -0.3 to -0.7 Ev of compensation. Then I would go on shooting. If I notice the scene somewhat different from those few initial shots, I would review the histogram and reconsider the compensation. Thusly, I would have spent lots of time chimping and mostly chimping for histogram. Number of times I would have lost a shot because I wasn't speedy enough to notice the difference in lighting. The stability and/or reliability of the meter in K10D had much to be desired. With K-7 I just don't bother. It almost always produces a RAW file that can be brought to the good shape in post or simply produces spot on exposure. The only thing I need to decide before hand is whether to turn on the DR extension. E.g. shooting in that snowy park with highlight expansion on and 2/3 of shade expansion proved useful so as to not loose bright snow and dark trees. I've lost few shots with K-7 due to metering, but it is far less a fraction than in case of K10D. I always shoot in matrix metering in hyper program mode - suits me the best. On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 9:46 PM, Bruce Dayton bkday...@daytonphoto.com wrote: It has been stated by several K7 owners that the metering has improved quite a bit over the K20D. I am curious as to the details of this difference. Are we talking about matrix metering and automatic modes on the camera, or are we talking about center weighted and manual exposure settings... Hopefully you get my gist. Can those who have noticed this please enlighten me a bit on what exactly you have noticed? I can say that the matrix metering in my K-x seems to do a better job that my K20D - of course, I mostly use center weighted so I'm not sure if that matters so much. Or perhaps I use center weighted because it is more predictable. Any thoughts and ideas are appreciated. -- Bruce -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- Boris -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Metering - K7
Good information Boris. I think my style has not seen the metering problems you and Paul have reported. I used the *istD, K10D, K20D and K-x. But I primarily use Center Weighted metering. I have not noticed much of any problems when used in the same fashion as the film cameras - ie: be aware of your metering and subject reflectivity. That was why I was surprised by Bill Robb's mention of a difference with the Center weighted metering on the K7. I can say that I have been trying the matrix metering on the K-x a bit and it seems to do pretty well. It probably is an improvement over the K20D. Anyway, I appreciate all replies to help me understand better. -- Best regards, Bruce Monday, March 1, 2010, 9:42:27 PM, you wrote: BL Bruce, I don't have K20D but I have K10D. So my comparison would be BL between K10 and K-7. Here goes. BL Generally, my shooting workflow with K10D was to get on location, make BL a shot or two and watch the histogram. Then I would usually decide to BL give it something between -0.3 to -0.7 Ev of compensation. Then I BL would go on shooting. If I notice the scene somewhat different from BL those few initial shots, I would review the histogram and reconsider BL the compensation. Thusly, I would have spent lots of time chimping and BL mostly chimping for histogram. Number of times I would have lost a BL shot because I wasn't speedy enough to notice the difference in BL lighting. The stability and/or reliability of the meter in K10D had BL much to be desired. BL With K-7 I just don't bother. It almost always produces a RAW file BL that can be brought to the good shape in post or simply produces spot BL on exposure. The only thing I need to decide before hand is whether to BL turn on the DR extension. E.g. shooting in that snowy park with BL highlight expansion on and 2/3 of shade expansion proved useful so as BL to not loose bright snow and dark trees. I've lost few shots with K-7 BL due to metering, but it is far less a fraction than in case of K10D. BL I always shoot in matrix metering in hyper program mode - suits me the best. BL On Mon, Mar 1, 2010 at 9:46 PM, Bruce Dayton BL bkday...@daytonphoto.com wrote: It has been stated by several K7 owners that the metering has improved quite a bit over the K20D. I am curious as to the details of this difference. Are we talking about matrix metering and automatic modes on the camera, or are we talking about center weighted and manual exposure settings... Hopefully you get my gist. Can those who have noticed this please enlighten me a bit on what exactly you have noticed? I can say that the matrix metering in my K-x seems to do a better job that my K20D - of course, I mostly use center weighted so I'm not sure if that matters so much. Or perhaps I use center weighted because it is more predictable. Any thoughts and ideas are appreciated. -- Bruce -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. BL -- BL Boris -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Question about D700 metering
I've heard various D700 people mention that they can basically just trust the D700 metering. I'm certain that there are pathological situations that'll mess it up, but almost all of the time it'll get it right. Is this also the case with the D300? What I'm wondering is how much of this is due to superior metering, and how much is due to the D700 having more dynamic range, giving a bit more latitude in the metering. -- Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Question about D700 metering
2010/2/28 Larry Colen l...@red4est.com: What I'm wondering is how much of this is due to superior metering, and how much is due to the D700 having more dynamic range, giving a bit more latitude in the metering. My understanding of dynamic range is that it is the number of EV that the brightest and the darkest areas may be apart at any given ISO settings for the sensor to be able to record the subject correctly without drowned out areas in the image. Are you perhaps referring to a superior recording range of the sensor sort of around the given exposure settings? You could easily find out by bracketing or deliverately over- and underexposing by the same amount the same shot in RAW on a D300 and a D700 and looking at the results in RAW and seeing how many stops of correction you can coerce out of each identical pair of RAWs. Other than that, I can't think of if and where such information would be buried in a spec sheet. happy hunting! cheers ecke btw hardly get a chance to look at all images sent around here but i do notice your good and consistently high output - nice going larry =) -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Question about D700 metering
Not sure, may be Savage can chime in here. All i know is with my D200 or D2H, i set the ev, if i have to, usually once and it is good for the duration of shots. With my K10D, and i have mentioned this before, its a constant ev adjustment. Up a bit , down a bit through out the session. I like the colours i get better in my K10D but as far as flash and freedom of metering, and AF speed, i prefer the D200 and D2H. From what i have heard, from those that have the D300, the metering is usually constant, unless another lighting situation is encountered. Dave On Sun, Feb 28, 2010 at 3:07 AM, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote: I've heard various D700 people mention that they can basically just trust the D700 metering. I'm certain that there are pathological situations that'll mess it up, but almost all of the time it'll get it right. Is this also the case with the D300? What I'm wondering is how much of this is due to superior metering, and how much is due to the D700 having more dynamic range, giving a bit more latitude in the metering. -- Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- Documenting Life in Rural Ontario. www.caughtinmotion.com http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/ York Region, Ontario, Canada -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Question about D700 metering
On Feb 28, 2010, at 7:46 AM, David J Brooks wrote: Not sure, may be Savage can chime in here. All i know is with my D200 or D2H, i set the ev, if i have to, usually once and it is good for the duration of shots. With my K10D, and i have mentioned this before, its a constant ev adjustment. Up a bit , down a bit through out the session. Same is true of the K20. But the K7 has fixed this. Don't know why, but I like it. Paul I like the colours i get better in my K10D but as far as flash and freedom of metering, and AF speed, i prefer the D200 and D2H. From what i have heard, from those that have the D300, the metering is usually constant, unless another lighting situation is encountered. Dave On Sun, Feb 28, 2010 at 3:07 AM, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote: I've heard various D700 people mention that they can basically just trust the D700 metering. I'm certain that there are pathological situations that'll mess it up, but almost all of the time it'll get it right. Is this also the case with the D300? What I'm wondering is how much of this is due to superior metering, and how much is due to the D700 having more dynamic range, giving a bit more latitude in the metering. -- Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- Documenting Life in Rural Ontario. www.caughtinmotion.com http://brooksinthecountry.blogspot.com/ York Region, Ontario, Canada -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Question about D700 metering
On Sun, Feb 28, 2010 at 3:07 AM, Larry Colen l...@red4est.com wrote: I've heard various D700 people mention that they can basically just trust the D700 metering. I'm certain that there are pathological situations that'll mess it up, but almost all of the time it'll get it right. Is this also the case with the D300? What I'm wondering is how much of this is due to superior metering, and how much is due to the D700 having more dynamic range, giving a bit more latitude in the metering. -- Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est The D300 has the same metering as the D700. It's extremely good, far less likely to be confused by point light sources. It is weak in low light, like every other meter, but has less problems there. The extra DR is nice, but not the key to the Nikon's metering advantages. -- M. Adam Maas http://www.mawz.ca Explorations of the City Around Us. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Question about D700 metering
- Original Message - From: Larry Colen Subject: Question about D700 metering I've heard various D700 people mention that they can basically just trust the D700 metering. I'm certain that there are pathological situations that'll mess it up, but almost all of the time it'll get it right. Is this also the case with the D300? What I'm wondering is how much of this is due to superior metering, and how much is due to the D700 having more dynamic range, giving a bit more latitude in the metering. I can't speak to the D700 specifically, but every Nikon I've ever owned could be trusted completely to meter accurately in all but the most extreme situations. My studio friends never, ever have issues with metering when they are doing field work. I never knew how much of a problem metering light could be until I started using Pentax. With the K7, I feel I have nearly as accurate a meter as I have with my Nikon F2s, which is a 35 year old camera. William Robb -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Question about D700 metering
I am with you on this, Paul. I don't recall when it was the last time that I actually dialed in some exposure compensation for my K-7. Though not always spot on, but it is almost always possible to produce a proper image in post. And almost being good enough for me for having stopped worrying about the exposure... On Sun, Feb 28, 2010 at 2:58 PM, paul stenquist pnstenqu...@comcast.net wrote: Same is true of the K20. But the K7 has fixed this. Don't know why, but I like it. Paul -- Boris -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Question about D700 metering
On Feb 28, 2010, at 9:57 AM, Boris Liberman wrote: I am with you on this, Paul. I don't recall when it was the last time that I actually dialed in some exposure compensation for my K-7. Though not always spot on, but it is almost always possible to produce a proper image in post. And almost being good enough for me for having stopped worrying about the exposure... There are some situations , near full-frame snow or sunlit sand for example, that will always require some exposure comp, regardless of how good a camera an its meter might be. I've found that in any situation that is close to average, the K7 can handle it without compensation. More importantly, it's consistent. Previous Pentax metering systems were not. Paul On Sun, Feb 28, 2010 at 2:58 PM, paul stenquist pnstenqu...@comcast.net wrote: Same is true of the K20. But the K7 has fixed this. Don't know why, but I like it. Paul -- Boris -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: OT :: G1 metering/sensitivity (was: PESO - All Aboard!)
On Jan 21, 2009, at 10:01 AM, Adam Maas wrote: IQ is quite good, although it seems the ISO ratings are pessimistic (I'm getting exposures corresponding to ISO 160 when set to ISO 100, and ISO 5000 when set to ISO 3200). It seems Panasonic didn't want to deal with the hassle of people complaining about the base ISO being 160 instead of 100 so they just labelled it 100 instead and worked up from there. I shot a sequence of ISO/meter calibration tests using the E-1, L1 and G1 bodies. I swapped the same lens, Olympus ZD 35mm f/3.5 Macro, to each body for the testing so as not to have any variability based on lens differences. Test setup: Open-shade sunlight, northern exposure, on the porch on a clear sunny day with mid-afternoon sunlight. Reference meter showed light was constant for all exposures. All exposures were made within about a 1 hour period. Checks were made with the reference meter to ensure that the light stayed at a consistent level. - Manual focus, manual exposure, AWB for all exposures; tripod mounted. - f/6.3 lens opening throughout. - ISO values stepped from minimum to maximum for each body, exposure time adjusted from 1/4 to 1/125 second to compensate. Basically, the same manual settings were used on all three bodies to isolate ISO sensitivity from meter readings. - Sekonic L328 incident meter reading was used as the reference target. - Subject target included the Sekonic meter, a Kodak gray card plus decamired grayscale wedges, and a notebook ruled paper page. This latter does a good job of indicating whether you've saturated the capture as the light blue rule lines are easy to blow out. - RAW capture only was evaluated. - All RAW files were imported into Lightroom 2.2 and processed at the LR2 defaults. * * note * :: The E-1's 1600 and 3200 files were given an Exposure setting adjustment of +1 and +2 stops because the E-1 extended range ISO settings are adjusted in software automatically only with Olympus Studio 2. Lightroom and Camera Raw cannot apply the adjustment with the Olympus' proprietary data format and scaling algorithms. However, prior tests making the adjustment indicates the the results are par in terms of noise/color quality with results using Olympus Studio 2. ** Observations: - The L1 and G1 bodies' meters both indicated an overexposure condition of +0.7EV for all exposures. The E-1 body's meter indicated overexposure of +1EV. - All files color correction on default settings as above is very close to the same, and just a shade cool as expected given the shaded, open sun lighting. - Measurements were made of five reference points on the gray card in Lightroom's Develop module. The L1 and E-1 images show values from 49-52% in all three component channels, the G1 images show values from 59-61% taken at the same points. This indicates that the G1's actual ISO is more sensitive relative to the E-1 and L1 bodies by between +0.3 to +0.5 EV, based upon prior gray scale tests to understand the relationship between LR's percentage readings and in-camera EV-based exposure settings. - Considering the meter readings vs the actual data indicated values, the E-1's meter calibration is most protective of highlight values, the G1's the least, with the L1's in the middle of the range. In a sense, the combination of the G1's slightly more sensitive than the rated ISO performance and the G1 meter's indicated setting compared to the reference meter, the G1's exposure system could be considered the most accurate. Most accurate doesn't necessarily mean that it produces the best exposures, remember: only that it will indicate where saturation exposure will happen with the greatest accuracy, at least for my use of RAW format capture. Practical application of this observation means that in cases where I'm using AE, if I set the E-1 to +.7-1 EV compensation, I'd set the L1 to +.3-.7 EV and the G1 would fall in the range from -.3 to +.3 EV. Another way of looking at it is that I'm more likely to get full, correct RAW exposure without underexposure if I keep the G1 on 0EV where I'd need +.3 and +.7 on the L1 and E-1 to achieve the same thing. For a Pentax reference, metering for RAW capture with the *ist DS usually meant +.3-.7 EV compensation and +0-.3 compensation for the K10D in similar lighting conditions. (As an aside, the *only* camera I've owned to date that actually adjusted the metering calibration properly for RAW capture was the Sony R1. Switching from JPEG to RAW capture with that camera automatically re-evaluated the correct exposure setting and gave an average boost of +.3-.7 EV over JPEG only readings for the same scene.) --- I'm continuing to look at these files as a great deal of information can be obtained from them. Particularly interesting are the noise and detailing characteristics at ISO 800 and 1600 (and 3200 with the G1 and E-1
Re: Blank White Metering
John Celio wrote: Plus-X and D-76, loved Agfa APX-100 but sadly they don't make it anymore... Not only do they not make it, Agfa has not even been in business since late 2006. I miss a lot of their products. Actually, Agfa is alive and well, and I think they may even still be making some sorts of special-purpose film. But they have shut down their consumer photography department, which I suppose you may say is what you were referring to. Anyhow, as others have pointed out, some of the products were taken over by others, and you may even be able to get APX-100 still, only it will now be called Rollei Retro 100. Whether this film have been produced for Rollei or they are just selling new old stock taken over from Agfa seems a bit unclear (both are being claimed on the web.) - Toralf This email and any files contained therein is confidential and may contain privileged information. If you are not the named addressee(s) or you have otherwise received this in error, you should not distribute or copy this e-mail or use any of its content for any purpose. Please notify the sender immediately by e-mail if you have received this e-mail in error and delete it from your system -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Blank White Metering
Cotty wrote: That should be as you normally would. If you try to do it as you normally wood. you'll be barking up the wrong tree. There is a grain of truth in what you say. Is this knot true? Who wood question it? I'm not sure I like the timbre of your questions. Cane we branch out from this nonsense? Yew better be careful. Oak-a -- You get further with a kind word and a gun, than with a kind word alone. --Al Capone. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Blank White Metering
John Sessoms wrote: From: John Graves The list has done it. I have been looking at all the fantastic Black white photos and have had trouble with drool. (Anybody want to purchase a slightly damp keyboard?)I would like to try some BW. Do I whip out my Gossen and open up 3 stops from white? Is this something I can do in Raw Processing? (Or should do?) For the moment, I am sticking with PSE 3 but have kept Raw as up-to-date as I can. Are these workable for processing. Or do I buy a roll of Tri-X and a new bottle of Rodinol? Yes. I think I'd go for HC110. The amount of film I use these days the developer will die before I use it unless it has an extremely long shelf life. -- You get further with a kind word and a gun, than with a kind word alone. --Al Capone. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Blank White Metering
On 12/3/08, P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: John Sessoms wrote: From: John Graves The list has done it. I have been looking at all the fantastic Black white photos and have had trouble with drool. (Anybody want to purchase a slightly damp keyboard?)I would like to try some BW. Do I whip out my Gossen and open up 3 stops from white? Is this something I can do in Raw Processing? (Or should do?) For the moment, I am sticking with PSE 3 but have kept Raw as up-to-date as I can. Are these workable for processing. Or do I buy a roll of Tri-X and a new bottle of Rodinol? Yes. I think I'd go for HC110. The amount of film I use these days the developer will die before I use it unless it has an extremely long shelf life. While HC-110 certainly has a long shelf life, I doubt it can stand up to Rodinal's reputation. -- Scott Loveless New Cumberland, Pennsylvania, USA http://www.twosixteen.com/fivetoedsloth/ -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Blank White Metering
In a message dated 12/1/2008 10:05:36 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Yup - With PSE closed, go to your PSE program directory and drill down to Plug-Ins File Formats. You'll see a Camera Raw.8bi file. Rename it to something like Camera Raw.8bi.old. Then go to the new Camera Raw Zip file and extract the new Camera Raw.8bi file to the File Formats directory. -p [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 12/1/2008 6:30:16 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Marnie, do you have the latest version of Camera Raw which will work with your PSE 5 installed on your computer (I think it is v 4.6)? It may be able to deal with your Canon RAW files. Check on Adobe's website for downloads and installation instructions. Regards, Jim = Thanks. I found I had probably downloaded the wrong RAW update (for newer versions of Elements and PS, 5.1 or something). So I revisited Adobe, got the 4.5 update, found the PSE 5 plugins/file formats directory, and dumped the update in there. Now PSE 5 will load CR2 (XSi) files just fine. Good, I have CS2, PSE5, and LR1 and that is just fine for now. No need to spend more money on software at this time (and my pocketbook thanks you too). Marnie :-) - Warning: I am now filtering my email, so you may be censored. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
Re: Blank White Metering
Un-diluted HC110 will last at least two years in the original plastic bottle. Put in a tightly stoppered glass bottle, it will probably last even longer. Properly mixed XTOL will last up to a year in a tightly stoppered glass bottle. I don't know how long Rodinal will last ... when I was shooting film, I would use it up long before a year went by. But I don't think about these things any longer... ;-) Godfrey On Dec 3, 2008, at 11:09 AM, Scott Loveless wrote: On 12/3/08, P. J. Alling [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: John Sessoms wrote: From: John Graves The list has done it. I have been looking at all the fantastic Black white photos and have had trouble with drool. (Anybody want to purchase a slightly damp keyboard?)I would like to try some BW. Do I whip out my Gossen and open up 3 stops from white? Is this something I can do in Raw Processing? (Or should do?) For the moment, I am sticking with PSE 3 but have kept Raw as up-to-date as I can. Are these workable for processing. Or do I buy a roll of Tri-X and a new bottle of Rodinol? Yes. I think I'd go for HC110. The amount of film I use these days the developer will die before I use it unless it has an extremely long shelf life. While HC-110 certainly has a long shelf life, I doubt it can stand up to Rodinal's reputation. -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List PDML@pdml.net http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
