Re: [RBW] Pedal strike and platform pedals

[David Faller]

Pedal strike is more of a "habit" problem than a pedal problem, at least 
for me.  You start to learn what you can and can't get away with on 
corners.  Narrower pedals definitely help, but not as much as you might 
think.


On 5/19/2012 2:46 PM, Rex Kerr wrote:
So, I've been slowly warming to this idea of using platform pedals.  I 
actually compromised and went half way, using cream colored PowerGrip 
straps that Rivendell was selling at the time and the MKS touring 
pedals that they sell.  This setup works fairly well for me and I'm 
starting to prefer it over having to wear dedicated shoes, even though 
I was wearing Shimano sandals.  That said, after years of using tiny 
little Frog pedals I got accustomed to how much cornering clearance I 
had and don't remember the last time that I experienced pedal strike 
[except for one time on my fixed gear].  Now, though, I seem to do it 
at least once per ride, even on turns that seem like nothing 
whatsoever!  Worse, a few times I've grabbed the toe of my sandal and 
flipped it down! (I sure hope I don't break a toe or tear my awesome 
Chaco sandals!)


So, now I'm wondering... are there other paltform pedals that give a 
little more ground clearance? Is it just something I'll have to learn 
to deal with?  Are the King Grips any better [for clearance]?  How 
about the RMX sneaker pedal with its corners rounded off?


How long did it take you (if you converted to platforms) to become 
accustomed to the reduced clearance?

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Re: [RBW] Thank you

[David Faller]

i just made that last photo into my desktop!

On 5/19/2012 9:57 PM, Manuel Acosta wrote:
Nothing beats New Bike Day. Rode the new bike to work. It was funny 
because my student's seem more excited about the bike then I am.  LIke 
any new shiny thing with wheels, all the kids wanted to ride it. I'm 
not good at describing the feel of a new steel bike so I'll quote some 
of the things the kids say. " So smooth", " The pedals are smart", " 
This bike feels so right!"  was the general conversation after 
students took turns riding it around the school. So since school got 
out early I took the long way home. Decided to see if there was a way 
to bike from Ed Levin to Mission Peak. There is but not an easy way. 
The maiden bike voyage turned into a maiden hike the bike uphills. 
 But the new bike got dirty so all was well.


It's kind of hard to describe how guilt ridden I felt having to 
receive such a nice gift. Call it my stubbornness to accept help or my 
pride of having to try and deal with my mistakes on my own. Having 
gotten to talk to a bunch of people on the forum in person they really 
helped me understand that it's okay to accept other people's help. 
Grant put in better words "Everybody who helps you will be getting 
more out of it than they're giving, so you can legitimately think of 
this as a gift the givers are giving to themselves." It's interesting 
to note that despite how amazing this gesture is that the  lovely 
folks at Rivendell HQ didn't make a huge deal about it. Which made me 
feel a lot more comfortable about accepting the bike, since it was 
done a month ago. (alas I don't check my voice messages) It was funny 
because of how awkward I felt during the last few months about the 
bike I didn't really have the courage to ask about the progress or if 
it was even done. I figured when the bike was ready and the time was 
right it would be done.
This bike is more meaningful to me knowing that so many people were 
willing to contribute in so many ways. It's hard to even express a 
really thank you over a simple forum, so I'll just do it through 
pictures.


Because pictures proved how grateful I am.
http://flic.kr/s/aHsjzqBUdq

-Manny "Now to get it dirty" Acosta

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Re: [RBW] Rambouillet/etc owners fat tire advice

[David Faller]

I ride a Ram with Jack Brown (greens).  Ram and I, with all our gear, 
come in around 188, so that puts me in at 48 F and 60 R.  I use 50 and 
60.  No bounce, no squish and I love these tires.  I had Ruffy Tuffys 
(28 mm for those aren't familiar) and ran them at the chart-recommended 
pressures.  They're great tires, too, but the Jacks are SO much more 
comfy.  No downside to the 33.3 mm tires.  None.  They are great in 
every domain, with increased comfort over the RTs.



On 6/7/2012 4:09 PM, JL wrote:


Hello all,

I might just be the kind of person that finds a happy mid zone in the 
700x28c tire as I can't seem to enjoy riding my rambouillet with 
anything larger.  I do like supple, large volume, tires.  I ride big 
plush 650b tires or round 559 slicks on other bikes.  On the Ram a 
32mm or larger tire feels too bouncy/springy.  I looked into 
information about tire pressure but it was confusing.  Jan Heine's 
chart about 15% deformation and load distribution claims that at my 
weight (175lbs with the bike) I should ride pressures in the 30s for 
32mm tires - that seems very low.


Right now I ride various 28mm tires at about 80psi front and 90psi rear.

What setup (psi tires etc) are people enjoying on their 700c road 
bikes (in riv terms that is: RS, LL, Ram, Rom, Leg, AHH, Rodeo, Customs)?


Is personal size as much of an issue and I am expecting it to be?  I 
am 5'8" and 150lbs if I round up.  I expect that tire sizes would feel 
different for someone who is 6'3" and proportionally heavier.


Why change my setup if it isn't broken?  Just to try new options and 
experiment with bike fit.


Thanks
JL





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Re: [RBW] Protecting bike in bike storage room

[David Faller]

Get one or two cheap moving pads/blankets and attached them to the hook 
somehow.  Hang your bike and wrap it with the pads and tie a length of 
rope around it.  When you use the bike, the pads can just hang on the 
hook, waiting for your return.


On 3/19/2011 6:04 PM, Bridgestone wrote:

Looks like I'm going to have to store my bike in my apartment's jam-
packed bicycle room. It will be hanging from a hook, perilously close
to another bicycle that could likely scratch the paint right off of my
frame.

Any tips for protecting my bike? Pipe insulation, etc?



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Re: [RBW] Gray Shimano derailer cable housing busted

[David Faller]

Given that you can see some internal rust and some cracking on the 
sheathing, I'd guess that this housing got pinched or slightly crushed 
at some point and it all slowly went downhill from there.  Shimano 
housing is hard to beat, and I really doubt it was a factory defect.  
It's cheap to replace.  I wouldn't try to use brake housing for a 
derailleur, as it uses larger ferrules which won't fit in your cable 
stops.  You'd just be asking for more trouble!


On 3/20/2011 10:55 PM, Earl Grey wrote:

Hi,

yesterday, as I shifted my Sam with alacrity into the big chainring,
the left silver shifter went past the limit of its range of motion
determined by the derailer limit screw. I thought perhaps the cable
had slipped, but then saw that the housing had burst in the loop
coming from the bar-end shifter:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/gernothuber/5545443939/

This is 1.5 year old silver gray Shimano SIS SD housing purchased from
Riv.

I have never burst derailer housing, nor have I ever heard of it
happening to others. Was this a manufacturing defect, low quality
housing, or caused by UV damage, which the gray housing is presumably
more subject to than black housing? Fortunately there remained enough
tension on the cable that I could move the derailer cage by hand to
shift and have it stay in place over the middle chainring.

Has anyone had a similar experience? There is some sign of rust inside
the housing, pointing towards a slow failure, probably starting with a
crack in the gray housing. The gray outer covering on the tight loop
leading to the rear derailer is also cracked. The bike is always
parked in the car port, and is only subject to direct sunlight when I
am riding or when it's parked outside the yoga studio or on errands
(about 8 hours a week).

I like the look of the silver, but if I have to replace the housing
once a year, I'll probably go with black housing, of which I have a
spool. Or should I go with silver gray *brake* housing, since I only
use friction shifting anyway?

Thanks,

Gernot


Cheers,

Gernot



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Re: [RBW] Re: How much should a bike cost?

[David Faller]

Agreed.  What the market will bear.

When you come right down to it, the topic applies to anything that is 
for sale and is ridiculous to call it a RBW list topic just because it 
speculates on the value of bikes.  How is the original post not "off 
topic" when it really has nothing specifically to do with Riv stuff?




On 7/26/2011 12:34 PM, Peter Pesce wrote:

It should cost as much as the market will bear.
Bike building is a for-profit enterprise, not a charity, and there is 
no morally-correct value to a bike.
That being said, I do agree that there is a place for value judgments 
in HOW a company makes the bike and sells it, that involves labor 
practices, environmental effects, and ethical business practices in 
the marketing and sale of the bike.
And, in fact, those are just product differentiators, and many buyers 
will choose exploitative over ethical if a seller needs to charge more 
for the "ethical" and can't convey that added value to the buyer.

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Re: [RBW] Rim replacement suggestions?

[David Faller]

I appreciate the suggestion.  Too bad these don't come in all silver.  I 
really don't like black rims, at least on my Ram...



On 7/30/2011 7:13 PM, cyclotourist wrote:
Velocity A23 are the hot new rims: 
http://www.bikesonline.com/velocity-a-23-700c-32h-black-silver-with-machined-sidewall.htm


Here is a set for muy cheap ($11 shipping, too!):

http://www.bikesonline.com/handspun-sport-series-3-front-wheel-shimano-105-5700-black-velocity-a23-32h-black.htm

http://www.bikesonline.com/handspun-sport-series-3-rear-wheel-shimano-105-5700-32h-black-velocity-a23-700c-black.htm

If you want heavier/stronger ones, I can't say enough good things 
about Velocity Dyads: 
http://www.bikesonline.com/velocity-dyad-700c-32h-silver.htm





On Sat, Jul 30, 2011 at 6:42 PM, Dave Faller > wrote:


I have a 2007 Rambouillet.  It came stock with Araya 540 rims and
Shimano 105 hubs (as did many, if not most Romuli).  They've been
decent, sturdy wheels.  Not to heavy, stayed true, etc.  Today I
had a fall (not a crash) which resulted in warping the rim.  I was
able to put the wheel on a truing stand and get it fairly back to
normal after about 30 minutes of messing with it, but I noticed
that four or five of the ferrules on the drive side spokes look to
be slightly uprooted from the incident, so the rim is permanently
compromised.  I'm sure I could ride it for thousands more miles
without incident; but, I've always thought about "upgrading" to
theoretically better rims.  I don't really want all new wheels, so
I'm thinking of doing rim swaps on my wheels.  So...

Anybody have any recommendations for rims you've used that you're
super happy with, or notice some ethereal improvement in
performance, braking etc. that I should consider?  In doing a rim
swap, I'd be attempting to keep the spokes as-is, so a very
similar profile would be in order.  Rim reviews are always highly
variable, but as RBW Owners Bunch members, your experiences and
bikes might be more similar to my usage than, say, the carbonated
racers or extreme downhillers.

Dave
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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

/...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would 
probably benefit more from

improving their taste than from improving their performance./ - RTMS

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Re: [RBW] Fishy Betty

[David Faller]

This is "Rivendell Reader" material.

On 8/3/2011 7:45 PM, grant wrote:

The craigslist "antique" one.here's the latest, kind of
interesting-

One of our customers contacted the guy, had planned to buy the bike
for as little as possible. Expected to meet him on the street down by
the corner near the liquor store, but one surprise after another, and
all good:

-- the guy met him at his (the guy's, the seller's) place-o-bizness
-- guy seemed normal, nice, forthcoming, not shyster-like or the least
bit shady
-- seller took the bike with some other stuff as payment for work
performed...when the woman couldn't pay. He said she was crying when
she dropped off bike etc.

We have the serial number and some particulars. The bike was bought
from us (not from one of our five dealers), and we'll try to track it
down. I think we'll be able to.

The repurchase price was $600.

If we can track down the original buyer, the rebuyer---who is, like,
the nicest kindest guy you'll ever meet---has offfered to take the
loss and return the bike, but of course we won't let that happen. If
he's able to return the bike, we'll cover him for it and toss in a bit-
o-reward in the deal, and then the woman gets her B back.

If we can't make that happen---for whatever reason -- then he'll keep
the bike.

If after that, the original owner comes forth, we'll work out some
happy thing for her.

On a side note, I contacted WDC police. told them we might have a
thief (turns out we didn't...unless he's supercon guy)-- and they
said, "We don't do that. Contact the FBI." Whoa.

May have an update, not sure. later.

Grant



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Re: [RBW] 3 nice things from Rivendell

[David Faller]

Same problem here.  I ride a local trail a lot, and some days upward of 
50% of the walkers have ear buds plugged in; then they get mad because 
you scared them by passing on the left, even after ringing a bell, etc.  
Nothing you can do, really, except avoid them when they jump!



On 8/12/2011 1:41 PM, Joe Bernard wrote:

Bells are wonderful things, much better than "on your left", which invariably 
leads to someone leaping to the left in front of your bike. But both are near useless on 
my local paths, because everybody uses those damn iPods. I'm usually resigned to 
approaching slow and far left, hoping they don't panic at the last second. Especially 
entertaining on my recumbent trike, which is wide and low, and a huge shock to a walker 
in music la la land.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Interesting refutation of Gary Taubes' obesity ideas

[David Faller]

Your experience is very similar to mine.  I bought and read both of 
Taubes' books.  I do not follow his recommendations to the letter, by 
any means, but I did quit most sugar and most carbs.  I still have a 
sandwich now and then, and I eat some chips here and there.  I still 
love beer, but I cut back on that, too.  Guess what?  14 pounds in the 
past two months.  Oh, and I'm riding less than I was in the spring, but 
my average speed has gone way up and I find hill climbing to be very 
noticeably easier.


My point is that Taubes' observations of the hundreds of studies (world 
wide) of human metabolism point to the same general conclusion:  Humans 
are animals, and proteins are far and away the dominant nutrients 
required by our bodies.  We have, physiologically, almost no use for 
carbohydrates, and our bodies' insulin system bears that out.  Yes, we 
can tolerate them and even use them effectively, but humans have 
succumbed to living off of them and are doing more so as time goes by.  
The parallel with the global increase in obesity and most major diseases 
is stunningly obvious, yet we do everything in our power to deny it.


I'm no zealot, and I'm suspicious of anyone who says there's only one 
way to do something like "diet", but when a simple shift in the 
percentage of carbs I consume made a (nearly) immediate improvement in 
my overall health, I was sold.  I know I could never follow a strict 
"Primal" diet, but strong adjustments in that direction are still 
measurably beneficial.




On 8/13/2011 7:50 AM, George Schick wrote:

Since the subject of Taubes' book finally came up on a thread I might
as well check to say that I've been on it for several months now and
have lost roughly 14 pounds.  I'm 5' 9" and weighed around 191; I've
dropped to the mid-170's and am aiming for the low 170's.  I'm wearing
clothing now that I never thought I'd be able to wear again in this
life.  My wife has been on it, too, and is losing weight also.

I have to thank Riv (Grant) for publishing so much in his readers and
on his web site about Taubes and the book.  Had it not been for that
it's unlikely that I would've gotten a copy.  My wife and I both read
it and were fascinated by the story Taubes tells about the kind of
diet that was common among many different races and cultures around
the globe and what happened to them when their main food sources were
taken away and they were forced to rely on the Western diet of mainly
carbs.And, although Taubes never really comes right out and says
it in so many words, it makes one wonder if a bit of conspiracy didn't
take place in the late 50's/early 60's when the food processing
industry began to really ramp up production of cereals, ready-to-eat
toaster pastries, etc.  Seems like that was when the food pyramid
concept began to be so heavily touted.

Draw backs to and warnings about the diet would be these:  1) Taubes
stresses that you should drink a couple of cups of bullion daily.
DON'T ignore this!  A couple of days ago I had to replace the front
"flex pipe" on my pickup and I fought cramps in my legs, neck, and
even hands the entire time I was crawling around under the truck.  You
simply have to replace the sodium that would normally be supplied by
carbs with something else.  2) Figure out how you can deal with
cravings by eating something other than carb snacks.  I'm fortunate in
that regard because I'll eat almost anything - so a tin of sardines or
kippers, a bag of pork rinds, etc. - they do the trick.  If you
absolutely can't stand any of that stuff try Atkins bars from the drug
store.  3) Taubes recommends a certain amount of leafy greens and non-
starchy vegetables every day. This is important unless you want to
suffer from unique bowel problems - I've leave it go at that.

At this point I can't say that I really miss all of the breads and
other carbs I thought I could never live without.  I do miss good
beer, though, especially the excellent craft brewed stuff so every
once in a while I just have to have one.  Other than that I'd think
the biggest draw back to the diet down the road is going to be
sticking to it.  I've heard many stories from people who went on the
Atkins diet a decade or so ago, lost weight, then gained it back again
when the began to stray from it.  It sure is easier climbing hills
sans 14 or so pounds, though!


On Aug 13, 7:16 am, Michael Hechmer  wrote:

Actually, the bulk of the Taubes book is a review of hundreds of obeisity
studies from around the world over the last 250 years or so.  Taubes is not
making any new or novel scientific claims, but rather summarizing the
conclusions of those studies and pointing out that today's dominant
nutritional advice is at odds with all of the underlying scientific
research.

Arguing that insulin levels are not the key variable in weight gain is much
like arguing that volcanoes are the major cause of global warming, after
every independent climate scientist has rejected the conclusion.  If so

Re: [RBW] Re: Interesting refutation of Gary Taubes' obesity ideas

[David Faller]

I think you should actually read "Why We Get Fat".  What you are 
asserting is largely refuted in the book.


On 8/12/2011 11:00 AM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:

One huge difference between our mid-20th-century-on and the lives of
even relatively recent forbears is simply the absence of physical
activity. I remember, as a boy in the late '50s and early '60s how
road crews would use picks, shovels and hand-controlled jackhammers,
while road crews today for the most part seem to have a big, yellow
machine to do it all. And with the move to suburbia, people don't even
have to walk to the bus stop or train station any more. You read of
pre-industrial or early industrial workers who spent hours every day,
six days a week, throughout their working lives, digging, plowing,
sawing, nailing, axing, fishing, bricklaying, etc. Even my mother's
family, who were well-to-do provincial squirearchy in southern Luzon,
never owned a car until the Yanks gave my by-then-provincial governor
grandfather a military surplus jeep after WWII: they walked
everywhere. And kids were outside playing who are now very conspicuous
by their outdoor absence in modern neighborhoods. Even my relatively
active way of life, with 3K miles/year on a bike, is positively
sedentary compared to the lives of even non-laboring classes back
before the auto, the suburbs and 24/7 couch entertainment -- Samuel
Pepys did far more walking than I ever do.

Frankly, I expect that almost complete lack of activity is in good
part to blame for so much obesity; it's hard to see how many obese
people could even function if they regularly had simply to walk
further than from couch to garage, or if they had to climb a couple
flights of stairs.

On Fri, Aug 12, 2011 at 11:50 AM, Tim McNamara  wrote:

On Aug 12, 2011, at 9:27 AM, Zack wrote:


I am happy to let the scientists battle this one out!  I will say that I have 
lost 20 pounds now in about 8 weeks, and my wife has lost about 10.  I had way 
more to lose before starting a diet that is higher in fat, filled with 
vegetables, and some fruits than she did.  It is working for me.

I have also increased the amount of greens in my diet significantly - I now 
have them at all three meals.  And I am drinking a significant amount of water 
(and managing potassium and sodium levels appropriately).


I haven't read anything by Taube so I can't comment on the scientific basis for 
his work, except to say that the science of human nutrition is far from exact.  
And because we are omnivores, widely varying diets can keep us alive and 
relatively healthy.  What surely seems to be bad for us is a diet high in 
processed foods, hydrogenated fats, salt, etc., and low in fiber, 
phytonutrients, vitamins, micronutrients, minerals, etc.

Americans (and maybe people in other places too) probably eat a fraction of the 
vegetables they should.  If you've added a lot of vegetable to your diet, this 
is almost certainly going to be a boost for your health and will make it easier 
to lose weight.  Many vegetables are best eaten raw.  Wash them thoroughly in 
water, though, because pesticide residues are bad for us and in many cases are 
bioaccumulative (stored in our tissues).  If farmers follow the pesticide 
guidelines carefully, pesticide residues are very low but I know (from farmers) 
that this is often not the case.

http://nutrition.about.com/od/ahealthykitchen/a/washveggies.htm

There may be a link between pesticide exposure and the risk of Parkinson's 
disease:

http://www.nih.gov/news/health/feb2011/niehs-11.htm

Generally the risk seems to be observed in people with a lot of exposure- crop 
sprayers, for example- and I don't know of any specific research linking the 
levels one might be exposed to in food with increased risk of Parkinson's.  
However, washing fruits and vegetables is really easy to do, takes just a 
minute, and why take potential unnecessary risks that are so easily avoided?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Interesting refutation of Gary Taubes' obesity ideas

[David Faller]

Thanks Zack!  This is _precisely_ what I've been wanting to say, but was 
on the verge of a tirade.  Arguing on the internet, in any form, is 
often dangerous and always stupid unless all parties are equally 
informed and open to having their beliefs toppled.  I've been quietly 
humbled many times by lurking on a thread and watching my pet theories 
fizzle and fade; but I was happy to gain the new information without 
having to put my ignorance out there for all to see.


Taubes' books are full of "well I'll be damned!" passages, and he can 
back them up with hard research.  He spends a lot of his writing trying 
to gently pry loose what I call "belief barnacles", such as "calories 
in/calories out".  He also amply acknowledges that personal genetics 
steers how we process everything, including carbohydrates.  All I can 
claim from personal experience is that I adjusted my diet in the 
direction of what he has explained (I did not go whole-hog, not even 
close), and I had almost immediate results.




On 8/14/2011 6:28 AM, Zack wrote:
I think it is necessary to read the book before commenting on whether 
or not Taubes addresses these things.  He does.  At length.  With 
example after example.  At least half of the book is spent refuting 
the paradigm/mindset that is being espoused in this thread by the 
people that have not read the book.


The cliffs notes version is that genetics impact how we carry our 
weight and how we process carbs.  Some people are able to process 
carbs differently than other people.  It's not that carbs are "bad," 
it's that some of us get fat when we eat them, due to the way we are 
genetically predisposed to carry fat.


If you are fat, and want to lose weight, read the book, and try what 
he suggests.  If you are skinny and eat cheetos and pizza and burgers 
and pasta all the time, congrats, you have the genes that allow you to 
process that type of food without getting fat.  It's not because you 
are working out so hard, or are so active, or because you closely 
monitor your calorie intake and never "overdo" it.  You can think 
otherwise, and that's good, and I am happy for you that you are skinny 
and fit, but for those of us that aren't or weren't skinny and fit, 
it's dangerous to stay stuck in that mindset, because you are going to 
stay overweight, be frustrated by it, and feel like you are a failure. 
 You aren't a failure, you have just been going about it all wrong.


Taubes' book isn't a diet book, in fact, there are only a few pages 
that talk about what to actually eat.  I feel it's important to speak 
up and say this stuff in case anyone is reading this thread who is 
overweight and wants to do something about it.  If you are in that 
boat, get the book, read it, it will help you, as it has helped me.



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Re: [RBW] What would Taubes put in a Boxy (or Candy Bar) Bag for a long ride

[David Faller]

During an energy-hogging ride it doesn't seem to matter how you eat.  
Your body is desperately looking for available calories, probably at a 
rate faster than you can digest them and make them available.  200 cal. 
per hour is probably all one should eat while riding to maintain the 
energy flow.  A friend of mine does many centuries and double centuries 
per year.  He is 53 years old, gaunt, and subsists on alarming 
quantities of raw vegetables while riding.  He has the energy of a 25 
year old.  But when he takes a break on the side of the road, his number 
one craving is those hot Fritos.  He shamelessly snarfs down those and 
all sorts of other nasty things like Cup O' Noodles and cookies, etc.  
Not very Paleo, but he's working so hard that he's burning those 
calories while idling.  Post ride, he gets back to the proteins, with 
some carbs, and is quite satisfied; I don't think he ends the ride with 
a 4,000 calorie refuel.  I can't say it sounds as fun or rewarding as a 
spaghetti feed or a BBQ with all the goodies, but he seems to do this 
effortlessly.


Personally, I'm all for pizza and beer after the ride...



On 8/14/2011 5:30 PM, reynoldslugs wrote:

Sorry to resuscitate a dying thread, but here goes:

I like the way the Taubes/Paleo makes me feel - -won't rehash.
Problem I have is long rides - - 4 to 12 hours.  I have not figured
out the "Taubesian" foods work to keep you going during the ride, or
how to handle that feeling of post-ride starvation.

What do you eat during the ride, and how do you handle the post-ride
meal?

I don't think I should be putting Candy Bars in my Candy Bar Bag, but
hard boiled eggs and raw broccoli aren't getting me through the long
days.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.  I know this post is not really Rivendell related, and the
"Candy Bar Bag" humor is weak.

RL



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Re: [RBW] "Wow you go really fast on that thing"

[David Faller]

I usually get compliments on how "pretty" my Ram is, probably because 
it's green and not black or white like the ubiquitous 
Specialized/Giant/Etc. bikes around here.  I recently was approached by 
a pair of women who were power walking and came up to me while I was 
resting.  They admired the bike for quite a while and said they hadn't 
seen anything like it, and had never heard of the "brand" (nor could 
they pronounce "Rambouillet").  They admittedly didn't know much about 
bikes, and one of them then went on to ask me, "Is the seat made of 
wood?" (it's a Brooks B-17 Champion Special - large oxidized copper 
rivets...)


Dave

On 9/30/2011 8:58 AM, Allan in Portland wrote:
Literally heard that last night in regards to my still-new-to-me AHH. 
Look, I know the tires are a little shabby, and the saddle doesn't fit 
the aesthetic (but it does fit me), but really, "that thing?"


:-) OK, as it was coming from a young 20-something on a crabon looking 
Scattante bike with skinny tires and not much else, I figured it was a 
compliment.


I should start a blog of unprompted comments Rivendells bring. So far, 
in less than 2 months I've had the usual "how old is it" on two 
different occasions. Some guy who looks like he doesn't ride bikes 
asked if I could go over 40 mph on it (was happy to show him the 
computer's max speed was currently recorded as 39.55). And not quite a 
comment, but the train rider in the seat next to me very conspicuously 
doing a web search on "A. Homer Hilsen" Not that I can blame any of 
them, (OK, I do hold it against the "how old is?" guys), it _is_ a 
great looking bike. In fact, as I often thing to myself, much better 
looking than it should considering it's built up almost entirely from 
second-hand accumulation.


And finally, something (IMO) so cliched (no offense intended) I 
thought I'd _never_ do, before, well..., getting my own put together, 
the flickr photo set 
.


Best regards & hats off to Grant P,
-Allan
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Re: [RBW] Worn out Chainrings?

[David Faller]

I'd say you've got your money's worth out of those rings.  Those teeth 
are overdue!


While you're at it, when's the last time you replaced your chain?


On 10/2/2011 9:34 PM, rob markwardt wrote:

Greetings,
   I went for a wonderful long, wet, cold ride up to Snoqualmie summit
yesterday (it's definitely fall in the PNW).  Cleaning up a very dirty
Bleriot today I noticed this one tooth on my middle ring giving me the
finger.  Pretty certain it means replace me idiot but wanted to get a
second opinion.  What about the other rings?

Bike... http://www.flickr.com/photos/77502424@N00/6202709226

Very dirty rings http://www.flickr.com/photos/77502424@N00/6206511186

Thanks,
Rob Markwardt
Seattle, WA



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Re: [RBW] Ride Pics - Rambouillet in Bodega Bay, Coleman Valley Road, PCH

[David Faller]

Great pix!  How are you liking those brake levers?

On 11/6/2011 4:41 PM, reynoldslugs wrote:

Pictures of a lovely weekend pair of  ridse from Bodega, up Coleman
Valley Road; time-outs on Salmon Creek and Coleman Beaches.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41563482@N06/sets/72157627945612093/with/6320527424/

enjoy!

Max



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Re: [RBW] Re: Noticed anything different about front bag handling

[David Faller]

Thanks, Kelly, for saying what many of us are probably thinking!

Every hobby has a joyous geekery about it, and every hobby shared with 
like-mined enthusiasts always gets explored to its extremes.  I think 
that's normal and, to some degree, part of the fun; but the fun bleeds 
right out of it when the discussions devolve into intellectual warfare.


I think you are a very good representative of how bicycle enthusiasm 
ought to be enjoyed.  A great number of folks on this groups make it 
about the minutia instead of the fundamental enjoyment.


Having someone occasionally call "bullshit!" to the crowd is grounding 
and refreshing, and thank you for it.



Dave


On 11/24/2011 9:19 AM, Kelly Sleeper wrote:

It really isn't low trail against every other trail.  Yet you couldn't tell 
that from this thread. Down the line there are nothing but excuses and defiance 
of the experience of others.

Many say their bikes ride great with medium to high trail and have no issues 
with front loads... Oh that's because you don't know ...

The low trail (extra low) road bad at low speeds and bad at high speeds but I 
got used to it.

The high trail is unnoticeable with front load... low trail folks yell... but 
if you ride low trail bike it's much better you just don't know it because you 
are used to  it.

Sheesh sounds like politicians.. no matter what low trail is the only way to 
go... now it's ohh  saddle bags and rear loads are bad too.. if loose and 
you are sprinting, climbing blah blah and throwing the bike side to side ...
throw a loose load on the front and throw the bike side to side...  hell put a 
big loose load anywhere and throw it side to side... ohhh wait you'll get used 
to it.

Kinda of reminds me of the cheating husband to his wife... "are you going to believe 
me or your lying eyes"

The truth is some people prefer the handling of low trail bike and others 
medium and other high and some in-between...   some want to take the way they 
ride and tweak trail, weight load, handlebar height, stem length, body weight, 
arm length, shoe size, and run formulas. Then there is a new racers (oh sorry 
randonneurs) routine to ride a bike... weight front bag, banana, nuts, rain 
coat... place 2 lbs packages at 10 mile intervals incase it rains and I need to 
replace weight of rain gear in front rack along the way.. (after all optimal 
performance on this bike is with 12.7779076 lbs front)Get the air pressure 
to exactly 40.1155576 lbs  (new electronic air monitoring for tires will be out 
next year to update your home computer that will send snmp traps to you via 
email in case of fluctuation about 2.3357%)   Ok... check.. I can ride my bike 
now and carve turns and feel like a really good race bike

No Thank You.. I purchased a Rivendell as it handles front loads, rear loads, 
front and rear loads and doesn't need a load to feel great..   I check the 
tires once a week.. and carry what I need as an all around bicycle... I change 
handle bars, tires, bags etc often .. then join a Rivendell Owners group on the 
web to discuss and explore the wonderful uses of it..   only to have to defend 
not the bike but my own experience as someone else decides unilaterally that 
since they don't feel the same way I'm wrong... and no evidence from anyone is 
valid...they are just used to it and don't know.

I'm sarcastic blunt and things make sense or they don't.   Low trail sounds great the way Jan did 
it .. built the bike to be a performance (race machine) for a specific purpose.. He loves it.  The 
bikes are beautiful and I'm sure they  ride great and people get used to them just as 
"Most" bikes ride wonderfully and people get used to them.   After all they are 
bicycles  After all from the vast difference of experiences and not just opinions it's obvious 
that it's not "just a trail thing".  It's also true that there are trade offs in bike 
design.  It may be true that low trail bikes with  xyz handle a front load of x better than bike z 
with x amount of load at frame size k rider weight L and front to rear load weight M under N amount 
of power.  It's not the answer to all loads though and writing off others experience is just tiring 
at best.

Don't tell low trail bike owners they have a nice bike either... they know it 
already.. you were just to dumb to figure it out as quickly as they did.  Guess 
we only need one bike geometry after all.

FYI:  this is not a personal attack on anyone no matter how much you may want 
to try and feel it is.  Also no single sentence by itself above stands alone.. 
overall this is just stating in a sarcastic but honest statement of opinion 
based perceptions.. so far in this thread and others.  It also goes back to my 
original notice to the original poster that I disagree with the instant 
assertion that front loads are bad for all but bike X because your bike can't 
handle it BS!   Mine and others experience and knowledge of how our bikes 
handle are just as valid 

Re: [RBW] Ot; Weightlifting; old school.

[David Faller]

You are correct about the OT part.

On 11/24/2011 7:51 PM, Richard wrote:
Greetings. I used to ride bikes but stopped totally a few months back 
to exclusively devote my spare time to becoming immensely strong; 
squat deadlift bench and overhead. I think aerobic exercise was 
wearing me down. I am eating a lot and getting strong.






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[RBW] Say NO to Internet censorship

[David Faller]

Hi,

When the Senate comes back into session next week, they'll be
voting on whether to grant themselves the power to turn off parts of the
Internet. Fun sites you YouTube. Informative sites like Wikipedia.
Political sites like MoveOn.org.

If enacted, new laws would force Internet Service Providers to block
websites that any corporation suspects violates a copyright or suspects
doesn't monitor it's users' content close enough for copyrighted
materials. That means that any website, foreign or based in the U.S.,
could be wiped out on suspicion and made unavailable to everyone in the
world.

The Senate must reject the Internet Censorship Act. Sign this petition and
spread the word.

http://pol.moveon.org/nointernetcensorship/?r_by=-17365590-j1JyLAx&rc=pac_nointernetcensorship_letter.email.g2

Thanks!



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Re: [RBW] Re: Say NO to Internet censorship

[David Faller]

"Representative democracy" is a myth.
~
I shouldn't talk, because I started all this by mistake!  The 
rbw-owners-bunch address was in an address book I group-emailed, so my 
political leanings were inadvertently introduced in a VERY off-topic manner.


For the record, I abhor OT posts, as well as topics that drift wildly OT 
or from their original intent.  I apologized to Jim (Cyclofiend), as I 
felt it was appropriate to do so.  In respect for the forum's Principle 
Intent, I would ask that people let this matter fade, get back to one of 
our rare joys, and divest this highly charged and unrelated business 
from the few bits of fun we can manage.


Thank you for your well-considered, though OT, responses.  Back to the 
geekery that is Ours!


Dave



On 1/19/2012 8:00 PM, Shaun Meehan wrote:
I have yet to meet a single person that openly supports this 
legislation. So I'm assuming that a vast majority of The People are 
opposed it. I think the fact that politicians have authored and 
sponsor it (in spite of this fact) illustrates one of the most heinous 
problems with politics in America. That is, they're obviously prepared 
to set aside the desires of their constituents in favor of political 
agendas. Why do we stand for it?


Shaun Meehan
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Re: [RBW] Say NO to Internet censorship

[David Faller]

That oughtta do it!

On 1/21/2012 6:17 PM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:

If'n this thread doesn't go away soon I will start posting about trikes.

On Sat, Jan 21, 2012 at 7:13 PM, jimD > wrote:



I'm partial to black. More devilish.

-JimD

On Jan 21, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Bruce Herbitter wrote:


White zip tie or black?

On Sat, Jan 21, 2012 at 10:55 AM, jimD mailto:rasterd...@comcast.net>> wrote:

if the use of the heinous zip tie is involved.



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--
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW
http://resumespecialties.com/index.html



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Re: [RBW] Free Tubes 700x28/32/35 normal weight presta valved.

[David Faller]

Did anyone ever take you up on these?  If not, I'd be interested

Dave Faller
dfal...@charter.net

On 1/25/2012 7:34 PM, murphyjrfk wrote:

i have a handful of tubes, four or five i think, all kenda  i believe,
presta valved. 700x28-35 range. i don't have a bike w 700c wheels any
more and i don't plan on having one for a while, if ever, i prefer
26". anyways they sit there and sit there and i don't want them to go
to waste. i know goatheads are a problem for a lot of you out west and
why not just pass them along. just pay $5.15 flat rate shipping and
they are yours.



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Re: [RBW] BQ / VBQ Issues - Free-ish to Good Home

[David Faller]

Rats!

On 2/12/2012 5:11 PM, robert zeidler wrote:

I'll take them!

On Sunday, February 12, 2012, Cyclofiend Jim > wrote:

> Hey there -
>
> On a tear this weekend to re-engineer the workspace, and have come 
across a four or five inch stack of Bicycle Quarterly / Vintage 
Bicycle Quarterly issues which I'd like to offer to any of the list 
members who will give them a good home.

>
> The stack consists of:
> Vintage Bicycle Quarterly -
> Vol 3 - No's. 2, 3, 4
> Vol 4 - No's 1, 2, 3, 4
> Bicycle Quarterly -
> Vol 5 - No's 1, 2, 3, 4
> Vol 6 - No's 1, 2, 3, (summer 2008)
> Vol 7 - (Autumn 2008), (Winter 2008), (Spring 2009), (Summer 2009)
> Vol 8 - (Autumn 2009), (Winter 2009), (Spring 2010), (Summer 2010)
> Vol 9 - No's 1, 2, 3, (and for some reason, I cannot find #4, but 
will include it if it pops up)

>
> For right now, I'm hanging onto Vol 10, No 1 (has there been a #2 
yet?) as I have yet to read it.  (Did I mention I had an 
all-encompassing work project the last few months?)

>
> Anyway - This stack looks like it will fit into a Medium Priority 
Mail Box, which runs about $12 to post, so if you are interested, the 
first $15 will get it mailed to them (US only - though if you want to 
pay the postage to have it shipped to you overseas or cross-border, 
let me know.)

>
> Please email me directly at the this address - cyclofiend over at 
gmail dot com. I'll vector you in for the payment if you are the first 
responder.

>
> - Jim
>
>
>
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Re: [RBW] Rambouillet Serial #'s?

[David Faller]

I bought my Ram in July 2007, and it's RB1135, so THAT doesn't add up.  
Maybe I bought the last one ever made (I doubt it).




On 11/18/2010 2:27 AM, Bruce wrote:
They went in order of manufacture, generally speaking. When I asked 
John at RBW how many were made, he replied:


Less than totally clean numbers-

  Frames: 693. Complete bikes: 432

And this was at July 2007. Not many more were made after that.


--- On *Thu, 11/18/10, rob markwardt //* wrote:


From: rob markwardt 
Subject: [RBW] Rambouillet Serial #'s?
To: "RBW Owners Bunch" 
Date: Thursday, November 18, 2010, 12:24 AM

Hi,
  Any rhyme or reason to Rambouillet serial numbers?  I was looking at
one on ebay last night and noticed the ser. # was RB0280 (an older
orange one).  I've got a later green  one (RB1163).  Did they just go
in order or is there any method to the madness?


Rob Markwardt

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Re: [RBW] Merino Wool Sweaters

[David Faller]

I went to our local TJ Max today just to see what I could find.  I 
scored two long sleeve "sweaters", which are more like a thin base 
layer, but very nice extra fine merino.  $19.99 each, normally $40.00, 
which is pretty cheap in itself.  I tried them on first, because you 
never know how things at discounters will actually fit, and they fit 
just fine.  Not a bad way to get yer mitts on some merino...


On 11/23/2010 9:23 AM, jennings wrote:

Hey Guys,  just went to my local TJ Max and they had 100% fine merino
wool sweaters for 19.99 and 29.99  Not real thick, more like a t-
shirt, with 1/4 zip and mock turtleneck.  Ill post a picture if I get
a chance.  Might be worth going to your store and looking.



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Re: [RBW] Re: My first new Rivendell (ok Hillborne)

[David Faller]

Quarter inch gap is more than fine.

On 11/23/2010 8:36 PM, Minh wrote:

So i'll just keep this thread going as i pull the bike together,
headset went in ok, cockpit looks roughly ok.  went to install the
cranks (an old suntour superbe pro double) and realized the 107
installed BB would be too narrow, the 113 i popped in looks ok, but
the inside chainring is really close to the chainstay, there's day
light, maybe 1/4 inch, is that dangerously close?  I guess i could go
to 117 but that only get's me 2mm, 122mm seems a little extreme...



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Re: [RBW] Re: My Racing Riv Ram... finally complete

[David Faller]

I think all of us Ram owners are wishing we could at least put Jack 
Browns AND fenders on our bikes.  But that's what Homer is for.  I'm 
used to deflating my tires to get the JBs into my sidepulls.  A small 
compromise for the wonderful ride of the Rambouillet.


On 11/27/2010 6:53 PM, Michael_S wrote:

nice bike... I have a green Ram also  just wish I could fit some
35's up front.(no fenders)

~Mike~



On Nov 27, 5:01 pm, BykMor  wrote:

OK, not "everything" :-)

60cm and Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires (on Velocity Synergy rims).

On Nov 27, 5:57 pm, rperks  wrote:




Nice build,
"Aren't you happy you now know everything about my bike"
What size fenders and which tires?
Rob
-http://oceanaircycles.com/
On Nov 27, 4:49 pm, BykMor  wrote:

When the sun comes out and the temp is above 19° again, I'll take some
better pics, but I think I finished fiddling with my Rambouillet last
night. Rode it home and everything seemed pretty sound (lights worked
and fenders didn't rattle.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/zmAuEz3xgzlpe_6qksMSMg?feat=dire...
Honjo fenders, Mark's Rack, Sackville trunk, Schmidt front hub, Phil
rear, EDelux headlight, B&M wired taillight, switched to a 12cm Nitto
stem, which I like much more, Pauls brakes, Brooks B17, Arundel SS
cages. Aren't you happy you now know everything about my bike. Fun fun
fun.
BykMor- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


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Re: [RBW] Ram and Jack Brown - no tire deflation needed

[David Faller]

Oh, of course!

On 11/28/2010 3:36 AM, clyde canter wrote:

I get the same reaction with the JBs on my Ram.  WOW!
I assume you are talking about the greens?
Clyde Canter

On Sun, Nov 28, 2010 at 2:15 AM, James Warren 
mailto:jimcwar...@earthlink.net>> wrote:



On Nov 27, 2010, at 7:29 PM, David Faller wrote:

> I think all of us Ram owners are wishing we could at least put
Jack Browns AND fenders on our bikes.  But that's what Homer is
for.  I'm used to deflating my tires to get the JBs into my
sidepulls.  A small compromise for the wonderful ride of the
Rambouillet.
>

I'm on a trip through California right now with my Ram on the car
rack, and it requires repeated removal of the front wheel. This
has been covered before, but it's worth mentioning again since
it's brief. With the following three things:

1) QR on brake lever (like Tektro)
2) QR on the brake caliper itself (I'm using Shimano Ultegra
longreach)
3) Having the barrel adjuster normally all the way up so that upon
wheel removal, you can screw it down a lot...

...the Ram brakes open up to allow removal of a fully inflated JB,
and it's a very easy three-step process. I've done it 5 times
since Wednesday!

If you like your Ram with JB's, I strongly recommend this process.
It's way worth the expense of getting the Tektro levers if you
don't have them. Of course, the more recent Big Mouth brakes from
Rivendell would help a lot.

On a related note, my brother and I switched bikes during our road
ride near Stevens Creek Reservoir yesterday. His bike is a Colnago
C50. He was very impressed with my Ram with Jack Browns, I was
very impressed with his C50.

He seemed a bit surprised about how nice the ride is with the Jack
Browns.

-Jim W.

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Re: [RBW] Lunar Eclipse; (Riv Content = S24O Worthy)

[David Faller]

Same here in Nor Cal.  100% soggy until well after Christmas.

On 12/18/2010 9:10 AM, cyclotourist wrote:

Rain, rain, go away... :-(

On Sat, Dec 18, 2010 at 8:52 AM, Ray > wrote:


A total lunar eclipse will occur on the Winter Solstice, December
20/21.
It will be the first total lunar eclipse to occur on the day of the
Winter Solstice (in the Northern Hemisphere; Summer in the Southern)
since 1638. See

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/December_2010_lunar_eclipse

Will be worthy of a Riv S24O to some high, dark place.

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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

/...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would 
probably benefit more from

improving their taste than from improving their performance./ - RTMS

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Re: [RBW] Tan Sidewalls - Rain Problems

[David Faller]

I don't see why under-maintaining one's bike, car, whatever, is a badge 
of honor.  A skateboard is a pretty low-tech piece of equipment that's 
designed and built for abuse.  My $3,000 bike and it's $100 tires are 
worthy of some upkeep.


On 12/23/2010 10:06 AM, james black wrote:

On Thu, Dec 23, 2010 at 09:08, JimD  wrote:

I like tires with tan sidewalls to my eye they look greatt but in persistent
rainy conditions they turn mucky gray.

I consider those grey sidewalls to be a badge of honor, a natural sign
of actual usage. Your preferences might vary.

When I was a child skateboarder, you could tell the real skaters by
whether the paint was worn off the "tail" of their skateboard deck (we
all used plastic "rails" on the middle part of the deck, but those
rails are out of fashion). I remember stories of "poseurs" who would
take a belt sander to the skateboard decks to rapidly achieve this
broken-in look. Not unlike the dumbass $200 jeans sold today with the
fake distress. I prefer to buy my workwear jeans in dark indigo for
$20 a pair; they look nicely broken in after just a few years of
regular wearing.

I should bottle and sell a compound that instantly turns your
sidewalls a studly mottled grey!

James Black
Los Angeles, CA



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Re: [RBW] Tan Sidewalls - Rain Problems

[David Faller]

Sounds like a good test for Jan Heine!

On 12/23/2010 10:25 AM, james black wrote:

On Thu, Dec 23, 2010 at 10:20, David Faller  wrote:

I don't see why under-maintaining one's bike, car, whatever, is a badge of
honor.  A skateboard is a pretty low-tech piece of equipment that's designed
and built for abuse.  My $3,000 bike and it's $100 tires are worthy of some
upkeep.

Does the muck on the sidewalls lead to reduced tire longevity?

James Black
Los Angeles, CA



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Re: [RBW] Boxing day ride.

[David Faller]

Some people...

On 12/26/2010 7:06 PM, Eric Norris wrote:

I thought it was uncouth to ride white tires after Labor Day ...

--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org

On Dec 26, 2010, at 5:57 PM, jinxed wrote:


Having a fantastic day with family now in the books, I found myself
with beautiful weather and an open day.

Time for a ride.

I took some familiar trails but did a bunch of meandering and
exploring. Turned a 45 minute route into a 2 hour ride. Rode to a
reservoir near my house which I usually ride around, this time I went
through. I've ridden there more times than I can count, but managed to
find a path I've never been on. Even hit the beach!

Weather was nice and crisp, but sunny. Surprisingly few people taking
advantage. There was apparently some large scale fire in town
someplace, there was a huge plume of black smoke streaking the sky. I
could see it's origin off in the distance, but too far to see what was
aflame.

On the way home I even stumbled upon a geocache. No GPS or compass for
me!! Actually I passed a tree trail side while thinking I should take
advantage of the setting sun lightturned around and went back.
When I leaned my bike against the tree I realized something was
sitting under my rear wheel. Someone had glued a small canister to a
piece of bark that must have fallen from it's hiding place. I signed
it, and re hid it. Primal Geocaching.

Hope everyone had a great holiday weekend and spun the velo.

Some pictures. All of the bike I'm afraid.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42027...@n00/sets/72157625679753268/


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Re: [RBW] RR 31

[David Faller]

Drink a little more coffee, Patrick...


On 12/31/2010 8:15 AM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:

So RR 31 is out -- great, must buy it. Good article. Whatever G's take
on trail, he's built me three excellently handling bikes.

On Thu, Dec 30, 2010 at 9:50 PM, Bill Gibson  wrote:

Did you know the pdf author was Milhouse Vanhouten? Cali is a mythical
place, you know...I have it, but I bought the pdfs from Rivendell...I
hesitate to violate copyright , but I will quote, assuming you are a loyal
customer..."Experiments With Rake&  Trail"
Fork rake is how much the front wheel is offset from
the steering axis—a straight line through the center of
the head tube. The aspect of the bike’s steering geometry
that’s affected by fork rake is called trail. Don’t confuse
it with a trail you ride on.
Road bikes typically have between 2-inches (50.6mm)
and 2 1/2-inches (63.5mm) of trail, and bike journalists
who’ve written about trail have said 2 1/4-inches
(57/58mm) of trail makes a bike not too quick, not too
slow, just right.
Trail theory says that more trail makes a bike easier to
control at high speeds and over rough ground.
Mountain bikes typically have between 2 3/4-inches
(69.8mm) and three inches 76.2mm) of trail.
Less trail, according to theory, makes a bike easier to
control at slow speeds, but harder to control when
you’re going fast, hitting bumps, or both.
Trail is affected by: (1) the wheel radius; (2) the head
tube angle; and (3) the fork rake (offset).There are three
ways to increase trail:
• Bigger front wheel.
• Shallower head tube angle.
• Less fork rake. Most folks who start thinking about
trail temporarily get confused at least three times, and
think more rake makes more trail. Nupe.
To calculate trail using arithmetic:
Trail = Wheel radius/Tan. of head tube angle minus
fork offset/Sin. of head tube angle.
If that’s Greek to you, we should be in the same club. I
have it programmed on my computer here, so I just
plug in the numbers and there you go…

How Trail Affects Our Frame Designs
When I design a Rivendell, I find the typical tire the rider
will ride, and then the biggest. For all-purpose road riding,
I shoot for 60-61mm of trail with the most common
tire. That’s more than what “experts have said” results in
neutral handling, but they are not the boss of me. Nor
should they be of you!
Then I see what the trail is with the largest tire. Normally
a customer will say, “I’ll ride a 700x28 most of the time,
but there are some fire roads here,
and I’ll ride 700x35s when I go
there.” Well, that works out just
fine, because the bigger tire will
increase the trail, making the bike
better for the fire road (so goes trail
theory).
Most frame designers have a trail
figure they’re comfortable with,
depending on the bike’s intended
purpose. But some copy other manufacturer’s
geometries—not a bad
thing to do, and I hope we haven’t
reached the point where somebody
out there considers Xmm of trail to
be intellectual property. Finally,
some builders just know from experience
what works, and don’t think about trail. That’s
fine, too!
In Italy in the ‘80s it was common for the top makers to
put 45mm of rake on each fork, regardless of the
frame’s head tube angle. The big bikes, which almost
always had steeper head tubes, didn’t have much trail,
but the little bikes (with slacker head tubes) had more
than plenty. I wouldn’t say that’s all that fine; in fact it
seems odd to me. But these same Italian frames were
ridden to many prestigious victories, which will impress
those in the “results speak for themselves” camp. I’m in
the “trail doesn’t win races” camp.
When you first learn about trail, you may find yourself
getting obsessed. It happened to me and I’ve seen it happen
to others. Trail is interesting, but it is not the sole
‘splainer of bike handling, something nobody knows better
than Waterford’s Marc Muller (more on him later).
The Educational-Type Fun Begins
FOR ABOUT SEVEN YEARS I’VE WANTED to experiment with trail
by getting some forks with adjustable rakes, so we did.
We also got non-adjustable forks with no rake, and with
65mm (whopping lot) of rake. You can do that when you
have your own bike company and a publication to get
out, but it takes more than snapping your fingers.
The bikes are 59cm Romuluses. The Romulus is a road
bike with what I think is a perfect geometry for allaround
road riding. Pertinent to this story, it has a 73-
degree head tube with 42.5mm of rake, which, with the
stock Ruffy-Tuffy tire (343mm radius), results in 60mm
of trail. It is as familiar to me as it gets.
We equipped three bikes with different forks—adjustable
rake, 0mm rake, and 65mm rake; and of course we have
a normal one, too (42.5mm rake), so really, four. I rode
it up and down Mount Diablo and the local streets and
roads. I rode it loaded and unloaded, on smooth and
rough ground, holding onto the
bars like you’re supposed to, and
no hands; over speed bumps (with
hands and no hands), with a heavy
basket, and at different speeds.
Th

Re: [RBW] Re: Goals for 2011:

[David Faller]

I like this.  It sounds achievable.

On 12/31/2010 8:46 AM, robert zeidler wrote:

Even simpler for me:
1. Not get dead.
2. Have fun whenever possible.

On Fri, Dec 31, 2010 at 8:31 AM, Mike > wrote:


Angus, that's a pretty good list of goals and accomplished items.

For myself, I feel I rode a tad less this year but still had a ton of
fun, hit some new roads and did a ton of riding on platform pedals and
in regular clothes which was really rewarding. My main riding goal for
the past 3 yrs has been wrapped up in randonneuring. My goals for next
year:

1. Finish another super randonneur series and finish each brevet a
little faster.
2. A sub-14hr 300k.
3. Do either a 1000k and/or Fleche.
4. More S36Os.
5. At least one multi-day bike tour.
6. Continue to learn how to work on my bike.
7. Read more.

My main winter goal was to sell my Rambouillet which isn't much of a
goal but it's tough for me to part with stuff and even tougher to
actually deal with selling stuff. I have a bunch of bike parts I need
to sort through and sell. I also need to figure out what I'm gonna
replace the Rambouillet with.

--mike

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Re: [RBW] Gray Whale 200K

[David Faller]

Congrats on "just doing it".  I know I couldn't!


On 1/2/2011 9:18 PM, Anne Paulson wrote:

As of last night, I'm averaging 200K per day for 2011.

Thanks, everyone, for the brevet advice. As promised, here's the report.

The forecast was for rain all morning, SE wind 5-15 mph in the
morning, rain stopping and wind dying down in the afternoon; almost
ideal for an out-and-back that went northeast for the first half.  I
was worried about being cold and wet, so I packed up an extra pair of
socks, a pair of gloves, and an spare wool undershirt (those Ibex
woolies are *fantastic*). I also brought rain pants. I planned to wear
an Ibex wooly undershirt, a jersey, a rain jacket, polarfleece tights
over shorts, and wool socks with booties over them. For food I brought
some brownie bites with peppermint patties in them, and a meat pie,
plus a flask of gel.

I overslept yesterday morning, so I had to rush to get out of the
house. Luckily, I'd packed up everything the night before. In the
rush, though, I probably didn't eat enough breakfast.

I arrived in plenty of time, with a good chance to check out the other
bikes. I didn't see any other Rivs, though I think there may have been
an orange one I missed. Several riders had beautiful Steve Rex bikes.
Several riders were using Rivish canvas handlebar bags, some with
decaleurs. Oddly, about a third of the riders didn't have fenders,
even though rain was predicted and it was in fact raining.

Since it was raining steadily at the start, I donned the rain pants. I
stopped a couple of times near the start of the ride, so ended up
riding alone, but with a tailwind that didn't matter. The rain tailed
off after about an hour, and the wind picked up. I was zipping right
along, not working too hard. What a delight it was to ride an empty
Highway 1.

I stopped for a pitstop and snack just north of Pigeon Point, maybe 30
miles in, but didn't eat very much. Between Pescadero and San Gregorio
I was catching  up to a tandem. I had visions of that tandem being my
new best friend on the way back into the wind, but then at the base of
the hill just north of San Gregorio, I was feeling a little bonkish so
I stopped for a peppermint, and I didn't see the tandem couple again.
That hill is pesky-- it's only about three or four hundred feet, but
it always seems more difficult that I think it should. Perhaps it
always comes at a difficult time in a ride-. Usually I approach it
after having climbed Page Mill, Haskins Hill and the two little hills
on Stage Road, so I'm tired. There are three ways to climb it, and the
one I was doing, north on Highway 1, is the easiest. Still, I was glad
to summit and ride the rollers to Half Moon Bay. After Half Moon Bay,
it was only a few miles to the turnaround.

I reached the turnaround four hours in, feeling strong, and took the
last parking spot at the end of the line-up of bikes stretched out
along the wall of the market. I was hoping for hot soup or a tasty
sandwich, but the convenience store had only nasty-looking premade
sandwiches and no soup. I had a chocolate milk, a banana, a brownie
bite and a couple of bites of meat pie-- not really enough. The people
still left at the rest stop when I was ready to go looked strong, like
I wouldn't be able to stay with them, so I headed out alone.

It was tough. That happy dream of the wind dropping was a
weatherliar's fantasy. The wind continued just as it had been all day,
with whitecaps out on the ocean, only now I had to ride into it. I
figured on stopping every fifteen miles on the way back. The first
stop was a random beach, where I was the only one enjoying the cold
windy picnic tables. I didn't linger, and again I didn't eat enough.

My second stop was at Gazos Creek. I had just leaned my bike against
the wall to go in the convenience store when I noticed a group of
cyclists passing. I jumped back on the bike and with my last strength,
bridged to join them. The benefit was obvious; I could sit in for a
while and stop fighting the wind I'd been fighting for thirty miles.
The cost became clear; I needed to eat and to get more water, but I
didn't. But three angels riding Steve Rex bikes babysat me for the
rest of the route, as I got weaker and weaker. We stopped in
Davenport. One of the angels handed me a Coke. I slurped it down, but
I was still draggling as one of my angels escorted me, slowly, to the
end of the ride, ten and a half hours after I started.

Reflections:

The ride was harder than I expected, and the challenge was different.
I expected to be cold and wet, but in fact it rained only for about
the first hour, with a few sprinkles near the end. But the wind was
tough. The main problem, though, was my (stupidly unrecognized at the
time) lack of food. I didn't drink enough, and I didn't eat nearly
enough. My stomach was hurting for the last twenty miles, and if I had
had two brain cells to rub together I would have remembered *it always
hurts when I have low blood sugar.* One problem was not havi

Re: [RBW] Smaller frame size next time?

[David Faller]

If the bike feels great and fits right when you're riding it, THAT'S 
what matters.  I truly need a 57 cm frame, but my Ram is a 58.   A 56 
would have been a case of me falling into my old habits of buying too 
small; and the 58 fits great when I ride.  Stick with Grant's standover 
formula and err on the side of larger.  Remember, too, that Sams don't 
have as many sizes to choose from, and that a 52 probably would have 
been a bit compact for you.


On 1/22/2011 8:41 AM, JimP wrote:

I have a Sma Hillborne which I absolutely Love. It is the best
bicycle I have ever owned. Orange frame, Cream Delta Cruisers and
Honjo hammered fenders. A Magnificent and Functional work of Art.

I can't help but think about another Rivendell at some point,
perhaps an A. Homer Hilson or Atlantis. The question becomes whether
or not to get a smaller frame.

When I ordered my Sam I did the best I could with measurements and
read that most people buy frames too small for them. I ended up buying
a 56 cm Sam with 700 tires. It feels great when I am riding BUT, when
I stand over the top bar I am right on it, and I mean right on it. I
lean the bike over when I get on, but at stoplights I do fine with one
foot (toe) down. That suggests I should have gotten the 54 but the
bike feels great when I am riding. I guess that shows you can adjust
seat height and saddle position and come up with a bike that "fits"
while mounted even IF it is too large.

   So, if I ordered an AHH would you recommend a smaller frame? If so,
what effect would there be, if any, moving back and forth between a 56
Sam and a 54 AHH?

Thanks for any thoughts.

best,

JimP



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Re: [RBW] Tone, OT and Stuff Like That

[David Faller]

Ditto here, too.

Just because Grant may have mentioned something doesn't green light it 
for being "on topic".  I'd hate for this forum to turn into "The Beeswax 
Group"...



On 1/22/2011 12:06 PM, Tim McNamara wrote:

But it is a list about Riv stuff and nothing but Riv stuff (and how we use it, 
which is- to me- often the more interesting discussion).

We all have other resources for talking about other stuff- back channel 
discussions if we really want to talk to particular list members about other 
non-Riv stuff, and of course family and friends.  I like having the specific 
focus.

And, of course, it's Jim's list and he gets to set the rules.  ;-)

Tim

On Jan 22, 2011, at 12:02 PM, robert zeidler wrote:


He's right, but constant talk about Riv stuff is... a bit boring.
Kind of like discussing Led Zeppelin-there's only some many ways to
beat the limited number of songs to death, until you've said all there
is to say-several times.

My .02

RGZ

On Sat, Jan 22, 2011 at 12:23 PM, CycloFiend  wrote:

Hey all -

As I mentioned in the State of the List Report, I have a work project which
is taking a significant amount of time and energy right now.  Thought I've
been able to track and comment on a few posts as a list member, I really
hadn't been going through all the postings with my admin hat on.

This may be a little blunt, as I need to get out the door (to work, rather
than what is shaping up to be one of the most gorgeous days in memory on
which the Lighthouse 200K was run...g)

I appreciate that everyone kept a respectful tone during the OT threads
which cropped up in the past week.  That speaks a great deal about the
people in this group who are committed to one of the core principles.

But, I will ask people to remember that  OT threads are OT.  The topic of
discussion within this group is defined on the main group page:

"Dedicated to the discussion of Rivendell Bicycles and products, you don't
need to own one - just an interest in RBW designs is enough to join in. Ride
reports encouraged, as is a respectful, supportive and polite tone in all
posts.

This group is not endorsed by Rivendell Bicycle Works."

I'm in the habit of letting marginally OT threads exist, in the hopes that
they will end of themselves. It always (or only, depending upon your
perspective) takes two people to propogate such a discussion.  So, I would
ask that if you find yourself to be one of those people, please stop or take
it to an off-list channel.

I'm aware of how the discussions began and how it arched to where it ended,
and honestly am pleased to see that they seem to have now been dropped.

The strength of this group is a product of its focus and the quality of the
information and responses.

Hope everyone can have a great ride today!

- Jim / list admin

--
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

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Re: [RBW] Re: Most Plastic Water Bottles Leach Chemicals

[David Faller]

I've been using Iris cages for years with my Kleen Kanteen.  They work 
great together.  If they rattle, put a zip tie between the bottom two 
loops in the cage to limit how far apart they can open.


On 3/6/2011 5:18 PM, cyclotourist wrote:
I just bought some of the Iris cages and hope they'll be fine.  The 
problem w/ the lovely Nitto cages is the top bend that's made to hold 
onto the plastic bottle.  I considered straightening it, but don't 
want to live with the consequence of not doing a good job on that!


On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 5:13 PM, RoadieRyan > wrote:


I use my kleen Kanteens on Novara alloy cages and they fit fine the
only issues being some rattle, that is easily solved by slipping a
pearl izumi sock over the bottle -no more rattle- and its a great use
for those synthetic socks I no longer use since I discovered wool ;-)

Thusly
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ryans_rando/sets/72157626086857697/

On Mar 6, 2:41 pm, Seth Vidal mailto:skvi...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> On Sun, Mar 6, 2011 at 5:39 PM, cyclotourist
mailto:cyclotour...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> > Do you have to wrap it in leather or anything like that?
>
> I'm using the regular king cage. And the only thing I found is
to take
> some rubber bands and wrap around it a few times.
>
> it keeps the noise down and the rubberbands keep it from moving.
>
> -sv

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Cheers,
David
Redlands, CA

/...in terms of recreational cycling there are many riders who would 
probably benefit more from

improving their taste than from improving their performance./ - RTMS

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Re: [RBW] Grant refers to this helmet guy for some reason

[David Faller]

Oh, can't we just talk about rake/trail or toe clip overlap instead...


On 3/15/2011 5:03 PM, eflayer wrote:

not sure what the points of view are, but this guy, to me, is an hot
air baloonfull of hot air. Not even considering his point of view
about helmets, just how arrrogant he sounds/is:

http://video.tedxcopenhagen.dk/video/911034/mikael-colville-andersen



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Re: [RBW] Helmets? Really?

[David Faller]

Thanks for stepping in, Jim.  The words "Grant said" or "Grant wrote" 
seems to throw the door wide open for all sorts of things that really 
don't fit the spirit of the list.




On 3/17/2011 1:05 AM, CycloFiend wrote:

Man - I get stuck in work and class all day, and alluvasudden, we've got a
helmet thread going

Now, I do realize that it's a serious winter in most places, and there are
some pretty soul-numbing issues going on in the world right now.  So, maybe
it's a calming distraction of sorts to hammer on a subject which gets
covered, regularly and relentlessly on the interwebs.

I do want to commend nearly everyone for maintaining a civil tone in what is
easily the most contentious discussion that gets held on bicycling
discussion groups. It says a lot about the quality of the individuals on
this list that it, generally speaking, did not devolve into name calling and
personal attacks.  Thank you to those who focused on the subject.

I would like to ask everyone to let this one float downstream now. I do
realize how it started, and recognize that it's a difficult nosedive to
recover from once begun.  But, again, it's at least the nicest helmet thread
I've ever read.

It's getting a bit cyclical now, however. So, if we could move on now, I'd
appreciate it.

- Jim / list admin



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Re: [RBW] When is a bike to heavy?

[David Faller]

I think a bike is too heavy when you don't enjoy riding it and all you 
can blame that on is the weight.


My Ram is the heaviest bike I own, and with rare exception, the only 
bike I ride.


On 3/17/2011 5:54 PM, MichaelH wrote:

OK, now that we have dispensed with helmets, allow me to raise another
controversial topic.

This is not like, when am I too heavy, which is easy right now.

I have 4 bikes, well 6 really, but we wont go into those details.  All
four of them are around 62 cm and get ridden regularly - a 1988
classic stage racing frame, weighing around 22 lbs; a Rambouillet,
outfitted with White/ Open Pro wheels,  a White dbl crank, Honjo
fenders,  a Mark's Rack, and light tires also weighing about 22 lbs.;
a 1984 Trek (Reynolds 531 standard gauge tubing)  with Shimano 9 speed
cranks and shifters, SKS Fenders, Passella 32 mm T Guards and  coming
in around 25 lbs; and An Ebisu All Purpose, with front and real steel
racks, steel fenders, MA 40 Rims, triple DaVinci Cranks, and 38 mm
Avocet Cross tires that weighs in at a hefty 30 lbs.

I live in Vermont, which has lots of rolling hills and some
significant climbs.   Do you think the 5 lbs alone, between the Trek
and Ebisu is enough to effect the performance?  What about the 3 lb
difference between the Rambouillet and the Trek?  Or, are the
perceived differences imaginary?

michael



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Re: [RBW] Re: AHH as a road bike

[David Faller]

I second the motion.  Most "serious" riders (racers) that I encounter have a 
sole focus.  They know nothing about their bike, they don't use it for anything 
other than sporting equipment.  The bike doesn't fit right, is ill-maintained, 
etc. but the rider has on the cutting edge kit.  Looks the part, but couldn't 
tell you about one component on the bike.  Why is that more serious than what I 
do?
  - Original Message - 
  From: JoelMatthews 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 7:06 AM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: AHH as a road bike


  > marketing of these bikes to the 52 yr old casual rider who can never
  > get comfortable.

  Agree except for the assumption that people who do not race are
  somehow 'casual riders.'

  In fact, I find more the opposite to be true.  Someone who uses their
  bike to ride to work, shop, access cultural and entertainment outlets,
  visit friends and relatives, and take vacations is far more serious in
  my eyes than someone using a bike for the sole purpose of riding
  faster than someone else.

  On Dec 4, 8:22 am, Kris  wrote:
  > I can't see how anyone here would find this to be heresy. I think we
  > all accept racers need a light & nimble bike, but object to the
  > marketing of these bikes to the 52 yr old casual rider who can never
  > get comfortable. This is easily the #1 misconception about Rivendell
  > & Grant - "Grant hates racing bikes and racers!"
  >
  > On Dec 3, 8:43 pm, "Bill M."  wrote:
  > It may be heresy around here, but racers
  >
  >
  >
  > > ride racing bikes for a reason. - Hide quoted text -
  >
  > - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Re: Quickbeam Arrived Ten Minutes Ago!

[David Faller]

Your photos made me feel like I was getting the bike!  I remember the 
frustration of receiving mine during a lunch break and only having about 20 
minutes to rummage through the excellent packing.  The rest of THAT work day 
was excruciatingly slow!

It's a beauty, and you WILL love it.

Congrats!

Dave
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robert F. Harrison 
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 9:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Quickbeam Arrived Ten Minutes Ago!


  I guess I should note that when I first straddle the bike I was terribly 
worried that it was too big. I'm a 95 pbh and this is a 66cm QB. The thing is, 
I could feel the top tube pretty high up there and had a moment.


  Then I realized I wasn't wearing shoes. I put on my normal riding shoes (just 
plain old New Balance walking shoes really) and tried again. It still felt a 
bit big but then I lifted the bike and really jammed it up there as that's as 
high as it's going to get. The bike was quite a ways off the ground so really 
there's plenty of clearance. 


  I guess that's what happens to new Riv owners the first time they experience 
a properly sized frame. :-)


  As for the actually fit when riding...perfect. Really perfect. 



  It's dark now and as I don't have my lighting worked out so I'm done for the 
day. I had a nice 10 mile ride though which was enough to absolutely fall in 
love. I'll be riding as a commuter the rest of the week and hopefully this 
weekend I'll get to try it on a longer ride, maybe Kailua and back (60 miles or 
so). 


  Aloha!






  On Tue, Dec 8, 2009 at 7:00 PM, Robert F. Harrison  
wrote:

I'm not much of a photographer, but I did my best. I'll be honest, it was 
tough; I wanted to rip the box open and build it up immediately. I tried to 
slow down a bit and take some images along the way. 


I've put the whole thing on my flickr page at:


http://www.flickr.com/photos/mgps-bob/sets/72157622964863214/


The sets starts with the bike being taken off of the UPS truck...yes, I 
kept checking the street. :-)


I hope the images document the packing enough for folks to at least get 
some idea of how they do it!


Here's what happened...


I didn't have time to do anything when the bike arrived besides open the 
box to be sure there was actually a bike in there. I snapped a couple of shots, 
then dragged the box inside so I could get off to a luncheon and go back to 
work for a bit.


After what seemed like a really long time I made it home. It was really 
only about 3pm at this point. 


I then began pulling things out of the box, photographing as best I could 
as I went.


Once it was all in pieces everywhere I made some executive decisions. I 
could either build it up completely, putting on the fenders (the SKS silver 
plastic model) and the Nitto front rack, or I could get it mostly together and 
go for a ride.


I chose the ride of course.


It took about an hour of unpacking and building before I was ready for a 
test ride around the block.


For those of you who wonder, the bike was packed superbly. Even the plastic 
bubble wrap was cut precisely to fit around stays and the like. I was very 
impressed. Still am.


After a ride around the block I took it back upstairs and packed a little 
kit just in case I had trouble, readjusted the seat and handlebars, and took 
off down the road. Within a block I realized I was going to have to get swap 
sides on the gearing. I had Rich build my wheels to be a bit better than stock 
because I'm a bit of clydesdale. They have the standard QB Suzue hubs rear and 
aft but Synergy rims instead of the Mavic. I have a White dual 16-19 on one 
side and no name 22 on the flip. Up front is the standard 32-40, for now at 
least. When bike shipped it was running 32-22. I could climb the walls on the 
side of my building but was outrunning myself on the flat Honolulu streets. 


No trouble switching - took a minute the first time. 


Because I had no 700c tubes around I went to one of the several LBSs in the 
area. I'm not going to mention it because the guys were a bit confused by my 
Quickbeam. "Dude, that's way, way too big for you." "How much does it weigh?" 
"Did you take the derailleurs off?" In short they didn't know what to make of 
it. 


After getting a couple of tubes I was off. I rode down the Ala Moana Park 
and then to Kakaako Waterfront Park, then home. 


The ride was...superb. That's the only way to describe it. I did have to 
adjust the seat height a couple of times...probably will again tomorrow.


This bike is nimble, easy to ride, and very, very comfortable. It is, 
without a doubt, the best bike I've ever owned and the best single speed I've 
ever ridden. I rode a couple of geared bikes at Rivendell last March so those 
take the cake as best geared bikes. :-)


I've got to work out some details yet. There's the front rack, the fenders

Re: [RBW] Re: a study in contrasts

[David Faller]

Consider the amount of force it took to do this much damage to cast steel.  
This carton was BADLY mishandled, regardless of how it was packed.
  - Original Message - 
  From: eflayer 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Friday, December 11, 2009 3:52 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: a study in contrasts


  is the blame on fedex or whoever packed it for shipping.  if someone
  shipped that Kogswell P with the lug points unprotected, then it ain't
  fed ex's fault.

  by the way those lug points were freakishly long and dangerous as
  daggers...and just wating to get bent somehow.

  On Dec 11, 3:48 pm, newenglandbike  wrote:
  > Yeah I know what you mean. Geez you'd think they put the box in a
  > compactor or something.
  >
  > On Dec 11, 6:42 pm, Seth Vidal  wrote:
  >
  >
  >
  > > On Fri, Dec 11, 2009 at 6:38 PM, newenglandbike  
wrote:
  > > > Wow, that is awful. I'm sorry that happened and hope you can get it
  > > > repaired without too much trouble. thanks for the warning.
  >
  > > Getting it repaired will be simple in contrast to getting the
  > > responsible party to PAY for the repairs.
  >
  > > -sv- Hide quoted text -
  >
  > - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] parts for sale: Xtracycle, nitto, etc.

[David Faller]

Is your Nitto stem in really nice shape?  I think I'd like it, unless it's got 
some deep uglies.  Let me know.  I'd be replacing my very clean 9 cm Nitto 
technomic deluxe.

Oh, and payment method?

Thanks!

dfal...@charter.net
Redding Dave
  - Original Message - 
  From: colin p. cummings 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 5:23 PM
  Subject: [RBW] parts for sale: Xtracycle, nitto, etc.


  Must clear stuff out...

  Xtracycle Free Radical: $140 plus shipping (no accessories included,
  pics/info available)

  Nitto tech stem 8cm extension: $35 shipped

  Nitto Noodle 44cm:  $40 shipped

  Shimano bar ends (friction/index): $40 shipped

  Please contact me off list.

  Cheers,

  Colin Cummings
  Amarillo, TX

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Re: [RBW] parts for sale: Xtracycle, nitto, etc.

[David Faller]

Sorry for the off-list blunder...

Dave
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Faller 
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 6:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [RBW] parts for sale: Xtracycle, nitto, etc.


  Is your Nitto stem in really nice shape?  I think I'd like it, unless it's 
got some deep uglies.  Let me know.  I'd be replacing my very clean 9 cm Nitto 
technomic deluxe.

  Oh, and payment method?

  Thanks!

  dfal...@charter.net
  Redding Dave
- Original Message - 
From: colin p. cummings 
To: RBW Owners Bunch 
Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 5:23 PM
Subject: [RBW] parts for sale: Xtracycle, nitto, etc.


Must clear stuff out...

Xtracycle Free Radical: $140 plus shipping (no accessories included,
pics/info available)

Nitto tech stem 8cm extension: $35 shipped

Nitto Noodle 44cm:  $40 shipped

Shimano bar ends (friction/index): $40 shipped

Please contact me off list.

Cheers,

Colin Cummings
Amarillo, TX

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Re: [RBW] Today's Photos

[David Faller]

Try again.  This page is private!

Thanks!
  - Original Message - 
  From: Eric Norris 
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 2009 10:02 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Today's Photos


  The 8-speed Quickbeam was feeling frisky and wanted to ride today ...

  http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03/sets/72157623059995514/

  --Eric
  campyonly...@me.com
  www.campyonly.com
  www.wheelsnorth.org

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Re: [RBW] christmas weekend canti rom build

[David Faller]

I wondered about pushing that saddle back more, too... That's gonna be a fine 
ride!  I look forward to the bar tape completion.  BTW, which bars are those?
  - Original Message - 
  From: Seth Vidal 
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 5:52 PM
  Subject: Re: [RBW] christmas weekend canti rom build


  On Sun, Dec 27, 2009 at 8:34 PM, Wade Vidal  wrote:
  > test ride pics and short video thanks for all the encouraging words and
  > advice. I hope to have it road worthy by next weekend.
  >


  I think you're right about the shorter stem. Swap out that spare one I
  sent you for something  shorter - maybe a 9-10cm stem and see if it
  comes back toward you a bit. You look a bit stretched out.

  See if your LBS has a used stem bin and you can swap them in and out
  until you get a size that's a bit better.

  -sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: hunquapiller?

[David Faller]

Don't forget "Framistans".  They're crucial to connecting "Whatchamadingies" to 
"Whozeewhatses"

Geez, have you forgotten everything your grandfather taught you?!

Dave


  - Original Message - 
  From: doug peterson 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 6:50 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: hunquapiller?


  Hunquapillers are in the same aisle as gazingas pins, frantzenjammers
  & fire line.

  dougP

  On Dec 31, 1:53 pm, "Robert F. Harrison"  wrote:
  > I'm thinking it's a lugged steel expandable tandem/triple/quad. You can
  > order as many "hunqs" as you need to fit your family and friends.
  >
  > On Thu, Dec 31, 2009 at 10:38 AM, Justin August 
wrote:
  >
  >
  >
  >
  >
  > > New Atlantis?
  >
  > > On Dec 31, 12:07 pm, Seth Vidal  wrote:
  > > > From the riv website:
  >
  > > > "Let's say you want a Rodeo or a Hunquapiller this Spring, but you can
  > > > pay some of it off now. OK, then. You call up and say you want to put
  > > > $2,000 toward it."
  >
  > > > Hunquapiller?
  >
  > > > Pray tell, what is a hunquapiller?
  >
  > > > -sv
  >
  > > --
  >
  > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
  > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
  > > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com.
  > > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to
  > > 
rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
  > > .
  > > For more options, visit this group at
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  >
  > --
  > Robert Harrison
  > rfharri...@gmail.com
  > statrixblog.statrix.com- Hide quoted text -
  >
  > - Show quoted text -

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Re: [RBW] Anyone in Boston need to ship a frame?

[David Faller]

Even if you don't find a taker on the list, you should call a LBS to see if 
they can use it for shipping before you put it on the curb.
  - Original Message - 
  From: MichaelS 
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 5:56 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Anyone in Boston need to ship a frame?


  Hello All-

  With all the recent talk about how well Rivendell packs frames and bikes I 
thought I'd throw this out there...  I bought a (non-rivendell) frame a few 
weeks ago that was shipped to me in a Hillborne box with all the packing 
material (foam blocks, shrink wrap, etc.) that has made Rivendell legendary in 
the bike packing business.  I live in a tiny apartment in Southie and don't 
have the room to store it but can't for the life of me chuck it out on the curb 
for recycling.  Is anyone out in forum-land looking to pack up a bike anytime 
soon and want to take this stuff off my hands?  I'm going to keep the plastic 
faux-hubs and maybe the seatpost plug but space is really tight and I'd love to 
pass this along to someone who could use it.

  Cheers- Mike in frigid (just got off the fixie) So. Boston, Mass



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Re: [RBW] 92.7 PBH - is a size 63 AHH frame right for me?

[David Faller]

65.  Always go bigger if you're between two sizes.

  - Original Message - 
  From: Howard (Denver) 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Saturday, January 23, 2010 10:08 AM
  Subject: [RBW] 92.7 PBH - is a size 63 AHH frame right for me?


  My PBH is 92.7, and I'm curious to what standover height and framesize
  would be recommended for an AHH frame?  I'm 6ft 1.5in tall.

  Looks like the 63 (with 88.8 Standover) would give me about 3.9 cm
  (1.6 in) of clearance; while the 65 (with 90.7 Standover) would give
  me 2 cm (just under an inch) of clearance.

  Mostly riding for city commuting and weekend touring; occaisonal
  packed/maintained dirt or rough pavement out in the hills but 95%
  pavement.

  In reading the Riv website; they mention the consumer products "crotch
  clearance" of an inch.   With the Riv method of measuring PBH (pressed
  way up onto one's pubic bone) it seems the 63 would be right.  1.6
  inches of clearance to the pubic bone would mean the inseam of my
  pants will probably touch the bar when standing on both feet over the
  frame (which I don't mind at all.)  The <1 inch clearance on the 65
  seems a little tight.

  But then again, I most interested in fit/feel while riding.

  Thoughts??

  TIA! Howard

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Re: [RBW] Re: What's in Your Saddlebag?

[David Faller]

That has to win the "unique cargo" title so far!  I like it.

  - Original Message - 
  From: MKahrl 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 2010 7:11 AM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: What's in Your Saddlebag?


  A Giant Twist-Tie.  It's like a bread bag twist tie only about 2 feet
  long and covered in foam.   It's handy for quickly securing your bike
  to a small tree or post or another bike.  Also provides padding
  between bike and other object.  Can also secure things to the rear
  rack or saddlebag.   Since it's bendy you can fold it to whatever size
  to fit in the bag and it weighs nearly nothing.

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Re: [RBW] black twine for winter project

[David Faller]

I found many colors of hemp twine (same brand RBW sells) at a bead shop, 
so you may want to try any local place that sells crafts supplies before 
you go a mail order quest.


On 2/19/2010 2:36 PM, Shakesbiker wrote:

Yes, I am a lurker, but I do have a Riv Saluki that I am hoping to do
some twining on.  Does anyone know of a source for the colored
(especially black) hemp twine suitable for handlebars? By the way,
after my last post about changing my wheels, I had some wonderful
wheels and dynohub built by Jim at Hiawatha.  I am thrilled with his
work and wanted to give a shout out of thanks!

Pepe
Saluki and Centurion ProTour

   


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Re: [RBW] Nitto Lugged Stem

[David Faller]

Weight maybe?  Anyone have one of each in the same size they could put 
on a scale?


On 3/2/2010 3:54 PM, rperks wrote:

Is there more to this stem then the love of lugs?  Is it appreciably
stiffer than the technomic? Does it provide vertical compliance while
isolating lateral and twisting flex?

Is there more than good looks for 3 times the price?

Rob

   


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Re: [RBW] Digest for rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com - 25 Messages in 9 Topics

[David Faller]

This post needs to go away.

On 3/21/2010 8:48 PM, Richard wrote:

Too cool



Kimberly C. Smith

Office Manager

Chaplin&  Gonet

5211 West Broad Street

#100

Richmond, VA  23230

(804) 643-0133

(804) 644-5812 fax



From: Kim Smith
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 11:23 AM
To: Richard Gonet
Subject: Swan Settlement



Richard, you are working with Attorney Tom Collins with regard to the
Estate of Jon Swan and his wife, Debra Swan.  Mr. Collins mentioned that
Mrs. Swan could borrow $1,800 to "make this go away".  I got
authorization from Pulmonary today to accept the $1,800.  Would you
please call Attorney Collins and let him know.  804.788.4457.  If you
will recall, we had a trial scheduled in this matter but we dismissed.
Thanks.



Kimberly C. Smith

Office Manager

Chaplin&  Gonet

5211 West Broad Street

#100

Richmond, VA  23230

(804) 643-0133

(804) 644-5812 fax



   


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Re: [RBW] Portland, OR shops

[David Faller]

I certainly appreciate all the recommendations.  However, I'm not even 
bringing a bike!  My daughter is touring colleges, and we're just 
generally scoping out the area.  There seems to be a movement brewing, 
but I won't even be able to participate, other than a possible visit to 
a bike shop or two (and as many brew pubs as my wife will tolerate!)


Dave

On 3/23/2010 5:31 PM, Dave in Redding wrote:

I've never spend any appreciable time in Portland, Oregon, and I am
going for a few days.  I can, of course, Google 'bike shops in
Portland'; but I'd like to know from the Riv crowd if there are any
"don't miss" shops, given our "bikestyle".  Suggestions?

   


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[RBW] Re: Tires--going big

[David Faller]

My Ram is also a 2007 with the stock Araya rims.  No problemas, fit-wise.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Mike 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2009 10:41 AM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Tires--going big



  I've got the JB blues that were on my Hilsen, perhaps I'll put those
  on. My rear wheel is a Mavic Open Sport which I think can handle a
  tire as wide as a JB but the front rim appears narrower, it's the
  original stock wheel that came with the Rambouillet. Anyone running
  JBs on those rims? Any problems?

  On Jun 13, 10:35 am, "David Faller"  wrote:
  > I put on some Jack Brown greens and have never been happier with my Ram!
  >
  >
  >
  > - Original Message -
  > From: Mike
  > To: RBW Owners Bunch
  > Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2009 9:59 AM
  > Subject: [RBW] Tires--going big
  >
  > I first got my Rambouillet in 2007 and from the start was using 700x32
  > Paselas. Over this past winter I put on some Ruffy Tuffys. They're
  > nice and seem "fast" but I kinda miss the 32s. In fact I'm thinking of
  > putting on some 32s for a century ride this Monday and may leave them
  > on through the summer. 27s like the Ruffy Tuffys just don't seem to
  > cut it. Anyone else have a hard time going back to smaller tires after
  > going "big"?
  >
  > --mike- Hide quoted text -
  >
  > - Show quoted text -
  
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[RBW] Re: Tires--going big

[David Faller]

I've only used the JB greens (sans Kevlar), so that may explain the smooth 
ride... Kevlar is an excellent insurance, but it does firm up the ride a little.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Mike 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Saturday, June 13, 2009 6:44 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Tires--going big



  Yes, I've got the Araya in the front. I couldn't remember the name.
  The original Araya rear wheel fell apart withint two weeks. That's
  good to know that it'll handle a JB without problems. I've got both
  Pasela 32s and JB blues. Both sets of tires have been pretty well
  used, especially the JBs but they'll be fine for a few more rides.
  While I like the shape of the JBs more I think the Paselas feel a
  little better. Weird.

  On Jun 13, 2:45 pm, Horace  wrote:
  > How funny, those are the rims on my Romulus: Mavic Open Sport in the
  > rear, and the stock Araya rim on the front. I'm running Jack Brown
  > Blues with no problems. Like apparently everyone else who has tried
  > the tires -- I love them.
  >
  > Horace.
  >
  >
  >
  > On Sat, Jun 13, 2009 at 10:41 AM, Mike wrote:
  >
  > > I've got the JB blues that were on my Hilsen, perhaps I'll put those
  > > on. My rear wheel is a Mavic Open Sport which I think can handle a
  > > tire as wide as a JB but the front rim appears narrower, it's the
  > > original stock wheel that came with the Rambouillet. Anyone running
  > > JBs on those rims? Any problems?- Hide quoted text -
  >
  > - Show quoted text -
  
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[RBW] Re: Thank goodness for steel spokes and Rich Lesnik

[David Faller]

Although nothing conclusive has been determined regarding the actual cause of 
this structural failure (spokes vs. rim vs. tire vs. frame material), when I 
get a flat tire on my metal wheels, they don't blow apart like a Christmas 
cracker.  The culprit here, fundamentally, is carbon and using it where it 
probably doesn't yet belong.  We all realize the pressure the industry has to 
race to the Next Big Thing, but riders (racers, in particular) are being used 
as Guinea pigs.  Advanced engineering requires advanced, and extensive, 
testing.  I trust Mavic to make metal rims.  But that's all.  Until they quit 
treating their customers like crash test dummies, I'll stick with their "old 
school" metal products which, thus far, have been reputable.

Stick with what you know.

Dave
  - Original Message - 
  From: Will 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2009 8:22 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Thank goodness for steel spokes and Rich Lesnik



  Hi. After reading the following VeloNews article, I suddenly feel
  thankful for Grant/RBW’s wheel-building philosophies and my Rich
  Lesnik-built wheelset. www.velonews.com/article/93054
  
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[RBW] Re: new Riv road bike, and my unwanted input for another

[David Faller]

Well said, Will!

I bought one of the last Rambouillets in July 2007.  I got it for the ride 
characteristics, which I'd seen in no other bike available.  The green was not 
my first choice, but it was my only choice.  I thought the name was cryptic and 
a bit pretentious.  The headbadge displaying a heraldic sheep rearing up on its 
hind legs with a bicycle wheel between its forelegs was even more awkward and 
un "bike like".

But, y'know what?  After about five minutes of riding the bike, absolutely none 
of that mattered.  This is a great bike, and I truly enjoy it a little more 
each time I ride it.

I'd bet that the same will be true for buyers of the upcoming "Roadeo".  Just 
like the Rambouillet, no one gets to choose the name, the color, the braze-ons 
(or lack of them), the tire clearance, etc.  But it will be the well-designed, 
Ram-like bike many people have been wanting and waiting for.  And as a Ram 
rider I can tell you that you won't be disappointed; I don't care if it's 
Barbie-pink and named Tinkerbell.  I recommend pulling the trigger.  Order the 
damn thing, pay a little extra for some Jack Browns and enjoy the hell out of 
it.

(And yes, I'm being a bit hysterical about the color comment.  Pink or 
"Tinkerbell" might sink it for me, too!)



- Original Message - 
  From: Will 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2009 5:29 AM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: new Riv road bike, and my unwanted input for another



  I'm sure that the color and name of one's frame are religious issues
  (let's agree that we'll disagree).

  Personally I LOVE the idea of a club-style bike. Here's why.

  1. I find my Rambouillet has more clearance and stoutness than I
  personally need, and would have bought a lighter frame if available.
  2. If it can accommodate 28mm tires with fenders (or 32mm without),
  then it would have more versatility than most bikes in its class (the
  Surly Pacer being an exception).
  3. It gives RBW a chance to make inroads on some other high-quality
  steel frame manufacturers, such as Seven, Bianchi, etc. I know that
  light steel frames is not what RBW is all about, but I am imagining
  that the frame could be quite popular, receive more attention than
  usual in the press, and be a financial winner if priced right.
  4. I like the threadless/threaded headset option. Personally, I prefer
  threaded, but I see this as a way to attract more customers.
  5. I like the alliteration (Riv Ramb, Riv Rom, Riv Roadeo). So, would
  the name Roadeo be pronounced the Spanish "road-ay-oh" (as in Rodeo
  Drive and Aaron Copland's Rodeo) or the American "road-ee-oh"?
  
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[RBW] Re: No more Baggins Bags?

[David Faller]

"Bag matching" is treatable.  We feel your pain!
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bridgestone 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2009 2:40 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: No more Baggins Bags?



  I can certainly get a Nigel Lil Loafer, but it is slightly different
  looking than the baggins big loafer I already have. I just wanted a
  set to match. Guess I'm out of luck now.
  
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[RBW] Re: Tried and LOVED - Silver Bar End Shifters

[David Faller]

I recently converted my Dura Ace bars ends with Silver levers using the DA 
pods.  Wow, what a difference!  MUCH better.

Dave
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jay LePree 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Saturday, September 05, 2009 11:09 AM
  Subject: [RBW] Tried and LOVED - Silver Bar End Shifters



  Hi all:

  I wanted to replace some aging down tube shifters on my Rambouillet
  and Keven at RBW suggested I try the Silver Bar End Shifters.  I
  installed them in May, and I do not regret making the move.  I find
  them to be much more convenient to use then down tube shifters or Ergo
  and STI, especially while riding in the drops.  I am currently running
  a Deore rear derailer with a SRAM 8 speed cassette and have no problem
  with ghost shifting.  (I did swap the upper and lower pulleys prior to
  installing the shifters, and I used bees wax on the tensioning bolt.)

  Regards,

  Jay
  Demarest, NJ

  
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[RBW] Re: wholesale MLB jerseys, Grady Sizemore $35

[David Faller]

This couldn't be more off topic if you tried.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Johnny Alien 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Monday, September 07, 2009 10:36 AM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: wholesale MLB jerseys, Grady Sizemore $35



  Dear XYJ,

  I am interested in ordering many of your products in bulk.  Would it
  be possible for my business associate to pick these items up for you?
  Unfortunately I have the western union funds made out in a much larger
  amount than what you are asking so if it would be no trouble I will
  provide this to you and you can give me the difference and keep an
  extra $200 for your trouble.

  Thank you,
  Johnny
  
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[RBW] Re: Tried and LOVED - Silver Bar End Shifters

[David Faller]

I just did this recently.  I've always wished I had bought the Silver shifters 
originally, because I found that I really don't care for index shifting and the 
Dura Ace shifters have a dense, ratchety feel that seems like something is 
grinding.  Because the Silver shifters are $82 for a complete set, I managed to 
find just the Silver levers on ebay, used but perfect condition, for about $26.

If you are keeping the DA pods (like I did) and installing Silver levers on 
them, then you have to do a little metal work.  DA pods have a little nib on 
the square mounting post.  It's an indexing point for Shimano spacers that you 
don't need with the Silver levers.  You can:  a.) file it off, or b.) file a 
small notch in the thick square-holed spacer that comes with the Silver levers. 
 You also have to install those same spacers backwards or grind off the lever 
stops that are there for downtube mounting.  I have plenty of Swiss files and a 
bench grinder, so I was able to get the thick washers modified in short order.  
I really wasn't hard to do with the right tools.  This endeavor saved me $56 
for about a half hour's worth of minor fiddling.

Sorry I didn't get pictures of the process; I usually photograph such things, 
but I was in a hurry to get the job done.  The result looks flawless and 
performs flawlessly.  I'd be happy to advise on details if you're thinking 
about doing it.

Dave
  - Original Message - 
  From: sanjoser 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 8:53 AM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Tried and LOVED - Silver Bar End Shifters



  ok, so I have DA shifters on my atlantis, and I just wore out the
  right shifter for the third time in 6 years. I'd love to convert to
  Silver bar end shifters. Is it easy to do?

  -ts

  On Sep 5, 5:00 pm, Seth Vidal  wrote:
  > On Sat, Sep 5, 2009 at 7:58 PM, d2mini wrote:
  >
  > > Ya, i could see how that would be a problem.
  > > Could happen with indexed too, if not adjusted properly but far less
  > > likely.
  >
  > > I think if I was deaf I'd go single speed.
  > > Lots less pressure. :D
  >
  > On her bike she has a nexus 8speed internal hub with the grip shifter
  > that shows the number of the gear. She likes that one a lot. It looks
  > like a single speed and she gets a full-coverage chainguard, too and a
  > huge gear range with it.
  >
  > -sv
  
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[RBW] Re: The myth of the all-rounder.

[David Faller]

Right you are.  Men are consummate gear-heads.  I have four bikes, only ride 
the Ram, yet I want more.  I think we just can't help ourselves...

  - Original Message - 
  From: PATRICK MOORE 
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 5:41 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: The myth of the all-rounder.


  My impression is that women generally simply are not as interested in 
equipment as men are.


  IBobwomen: is that true?


  On Tue, Sep 8, 2009 at 6:37 PM, Eric Daume  wrote:

Tinkering is a good point. Of my five bikes, it seems that one or two of 
them are down for "service" at any given time. And sometimes I just completely 
swap two or three bikes' functions: "Hmm, the Crosscheck would really make a 
better single speed instead of a commuter, and the Gunnar a better commuter 
than a single speed..." Time to fire up the iPod and crack open a beer.

Eric



On Tue, Sep 8, 2009 at 8:12 PM, EricP  wrote:


  Dave makes a great point.  My wife has just one bike.  In fact, that's
  all she claims she wants.  Sure there might be occasional lust for
  getting a folder, but then it passes as we don't travel that much.

  She also made an interesting comment to me this weekend about bikes.
  She is an "off the shelf" person.  Just one bike, basically stock.
  (Well, except for rack, fenders, lights, handlebar bag.)   In fact,
  shopping for her latest bike, she decided against a Surly LHT because
  too many parts would have to be switched out to make it "right" for
  her.

  On top of that, my spouse pointed out I have multiple bikes because I
  "tinker" with them.  (Just got a Schmidt hub and dyno lighting for my
  Hillborne.)

  That's a very fair assessment.


  Eric Platt
  St. Paul, MN


  On Sep 8, 4:06�pm, Dave Craig  wrote:
  > Doug has presented an interesting issue.
  >
  > I wonder what we'd find if this question were answered by women. None
  > have responded thusfar to this thread. ARE there any female members of
  > this group??
  >
  > My wife, who is a lifelong rider and who rides quite a lot, is quite
  > content with just two bikes - a Heron touring bike and a simple,
  > Specialized Rockhopper MTB. I asked HER whether she could get by with
  > one bike and she matter-of-factly said, "Of course, the Heron." I
  > suspect that this has to do with an emotional attachment to this bike
  > as much as anything else. As evidence, consider that when I bought my
  > Bombadil, she was more than a little disturbed that I would dare I
  > break up the Atlantis/Heron team we had toured with for a couple of
  > summers.
  >
  > She uses her touring bike for practically everything and uses the MTB
  > only for occassional dirt rides and commuting. The MTB is set up with
  > 1.5-inch tires, fenders, a kickstand and a rear basket. She told me
  > the other day that she might like to set it up again with fatter
  > knobbies for riding single track. Encouraged at this interest in bike-
  > related change, I suggested that I might take off the fenders and the
  > basket and . . . �perhaps we could buy her a new Betty Foy for a
  > commuting bike? . . . She was horrified at the thought of taking the
  > "useful" basket off the Rockhopper and, while she indulged me by
  > looking at the Betty Foy online, she wouldn't commit to pulling the
  > trigger (certainly not a female choice of words, BTW). �I believe her
  > last words on the subject were, "We'll see . . ." Weeks later, the
  > Rockhopper is still in commute mode.
  >
  > As I consider my female bicycling buddies, students and acquaintences,
  > I realize that none of them have more than two bikes and that most
  > have just one.
  >
  > Do women think the all-rounder is a myth? �I have to wonder whether
  > they even care.
  >
  > DC
  >
  > On Sep 8, 11:32�am, Doug Anderson  wrote:
  >
  >
  >
  > > I have room for four bicycles in the shed, which helps me keep the �
  > > number under control. The current collection is a custom Riv All-
  > > Rounder, a Brookstone MB-1, a BSA 3-speed and my old mid 70's Ron �
  > > Kitching that I plan to convert to 650B. My wife, who rides more than 
�
  > > I do, has never owned more than one bicycle at a time and she keeps �

  > > them a long time. Her current ride is a steel Trek 730 step-through.- 
Hide quoted text -
  >
  > - Show quoted text -










  -- 
  Patrick Moore
  Albuquerque, NM
  Professional Resumes. Contact resumespecialt...@gmail.com




  

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[RBW] Re: betty foy questions

[David Faller]

The "generic" headbadge is for the custom frames only.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Seth Vidal 
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 1:09 PM
  Subject: [RBW] betty foy questions



  Hi,
   My significant other was looking with lust at the betty foy but she
  had a couple of questions about it and I thought I'd ask if anyone
  knows:

  1. Is there a nice way to mount a real chain guard on it - for example
  if she was going to run it 1x8?
  2. if you get it repainted from riv is there anyway to get one of the
  generic rbw headbadges instead of the betty foy headbadge?

  thanks,
  -sv

  
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[RBW] Re: ahh on ebay

[David Faller]

This seller needs to be reported to ebay!
  - Original Message - 
  From: Seth Vidal 
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, October 01, 2009 5:03 PM
  Subject: [RBW] ahh on ebay



  There's a 65cm ahh on ebay that looks A LOT like a scam

  
http://cgi.ebay.com/Rivendell-A-Homer-Hilson-Touring-Commuting-Bike-65cm_W0QQitemZ350259709778QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRoad_Bikes?hash=item518d1b0752&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

  just as a heads up.

  -sv

  
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[RBW] Re: Requests and Thoughts on "FS" postings

[David Faller]

I, for one, appreciate your diligence on the matter of relevance.  Although I 
mostly lurk here, I am occasionally miffed by seeing references to things that 
are so very thinly "Rivendell" that they are abusing the definition.  
Submitting photos or narrative about a bike that has a Brooks saddle, but in no 
other way has anything to do with Rivendell, is pretty obviously just taking 
advantage of the group's good nature.  Such "related" photos should be posted 
and linked to Retrogrouch on Flickr, but not on the RBW sites.  I think many, 
if not most, of us check those other sites and should keep the RBW group 
focused on its original mission.  I really don't want to start seeing links to 
photos of an old Sears Free Spirit with a tweed handlebar bad considered as 
appropriate for the group...

My Two Cents, and welcome to them -

(Redding) Dave
  - Original Message - 
  From: CycloFiend 
  To: rbw group 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 9:05 AM
  Subject: [RBW] Requests and Thoughts on "FS" postings



  Hey all - 

  Just as a reminder on FS listings -

  - Please indicate whether or not a listing is yours.  (I realize it's a
  given if you are specifically listing items -- I'm referring to links to
  auctions and CL postings).

  - If the listing is not yours, let us know if you just came across it or if
  you have relation to or knowledge of the seller.

  - Use one of the url shortening widget-sites (tinyurl.com, bit.ly, etc.) to
  create a short, non-breaking link in your post. These are bone-simple, free
  online resources and makes it much easier for others to follow the link you
  have shared. 

  - Please do not attach images to your email.  Post them online at one of the
  photo sharing sites provide a link (yep, a "short" link if applicable) to
  the image.  Note also that some of the online sharing sites specifically
  prohibit "for sale" listings.

  - If you are interested in buying the item, please respond directly to the
  seller - not to the list.  Note that the default "Reply" is to the general
  list, so you will need to change that before you email/reply.

  A couple other thoughts:

  Our list has grown to over 1,100 members in this year.  That means that we
  have become a "targetable demographic" - i.e. a nice chunk of folks
  interested in quality bicycles and related gear.   It seems that there have
  been more "general" items listed for sale here of late - stuff that isn't
  particularly Rivendellesque.

  A couple of times in the past weeks, when these have come from new,
  moderated members, I've requested that they be more Riv-specific in their
  offerings.  Neither of those people either relisted their items or responded
  to my direct email.

  That's neither good nor bad in my book, but it does suggest that some people
  see us as a another bike-related list to sell stuff to. Again, I don't think
  it a big problem, but it has made me think a little about the group and it's
  place in the scheme of things.

  I'll be honest, I'm pretty protective about our group.  It's grown to a
  decent size and yet has managed to retain a respectful and personal tone.
  Thanks to everyone for that.

  One general idea I've decided to formalize is this -
  FS or Auction listings don't count in terms of making one "non-moderated".
  In the past, I've passed new members through with a single posting - as long
  as they demonstrated that they aren't the autobot spammers that hang out in
  the alleyways of the internet.  But, now, if an individual's first post(s)
  are "For Sale" items, they'll remain moderated until they start sharing in
  the general conversation.

  This will remain largely invisible to the group at large, of course.  But, I
  think it will prevent me from having to chase folks down, tug at their
  sleeve and say, "dude, all you're doing is listing stuff for sale..."

  Thanks to everyone for their contributions,

  - Jim / List Admin

  -- 
  Jim Edgar
  cyclofi...@earthlink.net


  
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[RBW] Re: Requests and Thoughts on "FS" postings

[David Faller]

...and I, of course, meant handlebar "bag", not "bad" (kinda Freudian, yes?)
  - Original Message - 
  From: David Faller 
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 9:17 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Requests and Thoughts on "FS" postings


  I, for one, appreciate your diligence on the matter of relevance.  Although I 
mostly lurk here, I am occasionally miffed by seeing references to things that 
are so very thinly "Rivendell" that they are abusing the definition.  
Submitting photos or narrative about a bike that has a Brooks saddle, but in no 
other way has anything to do with Rivendell, is pretty obviously just taking 
advantage of the group's good nature.  Such "related" photos should be posted 
and linked to Retrogrouch on Flickr, but not on the RBW sites.  I think many, 
if not most, of us check those other sites and should keep the RBW group 
focused on its original mission.  I really don't want to start seeing links to 
photos of an old Sears Free Spirit with a tweed handlebar bad considered as 
appropriate for the group...

  My Two Cents, and welcome to them -

  (Redding) Dave
- Original Message - 
From: CycloFiend 
To: rbw group 
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 9:05 AM
Subject: [RBW] Requests and Thoughts on "FS" postings



Hey all - 

Just as a reminder on FS listings -

- Please indicate whether or not a listing is yours.  (I realize it's a
given if you are specifically listing items -- I'm referring to links to
auctions and CL postings).

- If the listing is not yours, let us know if you just came across it or if
you have relation to or knowledge of the seller.

- Use one of the url shortening widget-sites (tinyurl.com, bit.ly, etc.) to
create a short, non-breaking link in your post. These are bone-simple, free
online resources and makes it much easier for others to follow the link you
have shared. 

- Please do not attach images to your email.  Post them online at one of the
photo sharing sites provide a link (yep, a "short" link if applicable) to
the image.  Note also that some of the online sharing sites specifically
prohibit "for sale" listings.

- If you are interested in buying the item, please respond directly to the
seller - not to the list.  Note that the default "Reply" is to the general
list, so you will need to change that before you email/reply.

A couple other thoughts:

Our list has grown to over 1,100 members in this year.  That means that we
have become a "targetable demographic" - i.e. a nice chunk of folks
interested in quality bicycles and related gear.   It seems that there have
been more "general" items listed for sale here of late - stuff that isn't
particularly Rivendellesque.

A couple of times in the past weeks, when these have come from new,
moderated members, I've requested that they be more Riv-specific in their
offerings.  Neither of those people either relisted their items or responded
to my direct email.

That's neither good nor bad in my book, but it does suggest that some people
see us as a another bike-related list to sell stuff to. Again, I don't think
it a big problem, but it has made me think a little about the group and it's
place in the scheme of things.

I'll be honest, I'm pretty protective about our group.  It's grown to a
decent size and yet has managed to retain a respectful and personal tone.
Thanks to everyone for that.

One general idea I've decided to formalize is this -
FS or Auction listings don't count in terms of making one "non-moderated".
In the past, I've passed new members through with a single posting - as long
as they demonstrated that they aren't the autobot spammers that hang out in
the alleyways of the internet.  But, now, if an individual's first post(s)
are "For Sale" items, they'll remain moderated until they start sharing in
the general conversation.

This will remain largely invisible to the group at large, of course.  But, I
think it will prevent me from having to chase folks down, tug at their
sleeve and say, "dude, all you're doing is listing stuff for sale..."

Thanks to everyone for their contributions,

- Jim / List Admin

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net



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[RBW] Re: Slightly OT: Washing Wool Knickers

[David Faller]

Seems to me you're related to someone who knows more about this than us 
knuckleheads.  Listen to your expert!

Dave
  - Original Message - 
  From: Larry Powers 
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 2:57 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Slightly OT: Washing Wool Knickers


  It's an amazing day.  I just found my old Woolrich wool knickers.  I think 
these are early to mid 80's, so well over 20 years old.  I bought them when 
they were discontinued and only used them a couple of times before my middle 
aged spread rendered them unwearable.  I tired them on today and they fit 
again.  

  I would like to clean them.  They are 85% wool and 15% nylon and say dry 
clean only.  My daughter says wash them by soaking in the tub with her super 
special wool cleaner (she weaves and knits and only works with wool).  I wash 
all my riding clothes including my Wooly Warms on the delicate cycle in my 
front loading machine using Ivory Snow.  Of course all washing is in cold 
water.  

  Any opinions on the best approach?

  Wool Rules.

  Larry Powers 
   
  Get a bicycle.  You will not regret it if you live. - Mark Twain




--
  Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. Get it now.
  

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[RBW] Re: Homer in Outside Magazine

[David Faller]

Too bad they didn't shoot it from the drive side...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jock Scott 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:10 AM
  Subject: [RBW] Homer in Outside Magazine



  The AHH is one of four bikes featured in a bike commuting article in
  the Oct issue.  In addition to Kona and Masi, Surly also gets a nod
  for the popular CC.  The Hillborne (and GP) gets a mention, too.

  http://outside.away.com/outside/gear/200910/best-commuter-bikes-rivendell.html

  I don't regularly read Outside, but I thought the mag was very
  mainstream.  I would have expected to see the Trek Soho, Specialized
  Globe, etc.
  
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[RBW] Re: shellac vanity question

[David Faller]

Honey Brooks will darken with use and treatment.  Takes time...
  - Original Message - 
  From: mizrachi 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 9:59 AM
  Subject: [RBW] shellac vanity question



  I've applied a few coats of Bullseye amber shellac over yellow
  Tressostar cloth tape but the look is considerably darker than my
  almost brand new honey Brooks b17.  In fact, the bars more closely
  resemble the Brooks antique brown color. Will the shellacked bars
  fade?  Will the seat darken?  Or, in order to more directly match the
  bars to the saddle, do I need to try again, perhaps mixing the shellac
  with denatured alcohol or replacing the yellow cloth tape with another
  color or with cork?

  Trivial and obsessive, I know, but that's half the fun!




  
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[RBW] Re: FS: B17 titanium , Nitto Stem and Various parts

[David Faller]

Does price include shipping?

  - Original Message - 
  From: Andrew 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 9:51 PM
  Subject: [RBW] FS: B17 titanium , Nitto Stem and Various parts



  Selling a few parts, thought I would put them on here before going to
  ebay.

  1. $35 - Nitto technomic deluxe stem 8cm , good for moustache bars.
  Very little wear

  http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/akibb/Parts/IMG_7166.jpg
  http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/akibb/Parts/IMG_7167.jpg

  2. $175 - Brooks B17 titanium saddle Brown. Has only been on one 5
  mile ride, ended up selling the bike it was on. Has one small mark
  from it rubbing against a concrete wall. It looks new besides that.
  The photos make it look honey with the flash but is for sure brown.

  http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/akibb/Parts/IMG_7161.jpg
  http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/akibb/Parts/IMG_7154.jpg
  http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/akibb/Parts/IMG_7163.jpg
  
http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/akibb/Parts/?action=view¤t=IMG_7160.jpg
  
http://s19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/akibb/Parts/?action=view¤t=IMG_7152.jpg

  3. $125 - Dura Ace Rear Derailleur 9 or 10 speed 7800. New in box,
  totally unused.

  http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/akibb/Parts/Shimano.jpg
  http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/akibb/Parts/IMG_7147.jpg
  http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/akibb/Parts/IMG_7143.jpg
  http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/akibb/Parts/IMG_7146.jpg

  4. $125 - Dura Ace CS7700 9 speed cassette 12-27 brand new in box

  http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/akibb/Parts/IMG_7132.jpg
  http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/akibb/Parts/IMG_7134.jpg
  http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b182/akibb/Parts/IMG_7133.jpg




  
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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Dureme Tire

[David Faller]

Something tells me the Schwalbe isn't going to cost a paycheck, though...
  - Original Message - 
  From: Patrick in VT 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 9:12 AM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Schwalbe Dureme Tire



  On Oct 22, 11:37 am, Rocky B  wrote:
  > Looks like Schwalbe has a new model 
out:http://www.schwalbetires.com/marathon_dureme
  >
  > It definitely looks like a "dream" tire. I really hope they make a
  > 650B size.

  Kirk Pacenti has a 650b x 38ish (hopefully) tire in the works.  Grand
  Bois also has a 650b x 38 in the works - a "baby Hetre" of sorts.
  both will be available next year.

  if your bike can fit a 38-42, i'd consider these before a schwalbe if
  you're after a "dream" ride.
  
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[RBW] Re: Silver shifters with Shimano 9sp barend pods

[David Faller]

I mounted Silvers on my Shimano pods, and I did it the hard way so that I could 
restore the Shimanos with their original levers if necessary.  I filed a 
semicircular notch on the inside of the square-holed washer to clear the tab on 
the pods.  I also used a bench grinder to remove the downtube stops from the 
washers.  A bit of work, but reversing the washers leaves the sharp tab exposed 
and it will rub on, or pinch, your fingers eventually.

The Silvers look and work perfect.  If you don't use indexing, or plan to, then 
get the Silvers.  The Shimanos set to friction mode are still very "notchy" and 
tight; the Silvers are as smooth as can be!

Dave
  - Original Message - 
  From: Earl Grey 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 1:53 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Silver shifters with Shimano 9sp barend pods



  I am trying to mount the Silvers on 9sp Shimano pods, and found that
  pods have a little lip on the bottom edge of the square stud that
  prevents the washer with the square hole from mounting flush (I was
  going to mount the square-hole washers with the tab facing out so they
  don't interfere).

  Without the square-hole washer, the cable holes don't line up, but if
  I use both round washers that came with the shifters, and forego the
  square-hole one, it seems to work, but then of course I need 2 more
  washers.

  So, any opinions on whether I should try to find 2 more normal
  washers, or grind off the tabs on the pods? Any advantages in terms of
  operation or longevity? Anyone come up with a different solution?

  Thanks,

  Gernot
  
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[RBW] Re: Skewered?

[David Faller]

Hub axle clearance is measured from the inside dimension of the dropouts.  Cam 
faces clamp onto the outside of the dropouts, so are naturally wider.  30 extra 
mm seems a bit much, but one must allow for them to open and clear the dropouts.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Kelt 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 4:53 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Skewered?



  They are great, but they were the reason I opened the size question..
  I measured from the face of the cam to the end of the threads on the
  skewer that fits and read off 165mm  (more or less). Is that correct
  for a 135 mm rear wheel spacing?
  I really have not had any experience with skewers or rear wheel
  spacing before.

  Thanks.


  On Oct 28, 4:23 pm, Seth Vidal  wrote:
  > On Wed, Oct 28, 2009 at 4:21 PM, Kelt  wrote:
  >
  > > I love my Bleriot, but have a minor fly in my ointment. The skewers
  > > are shimano somethings and they are black :(
  > > Does anyone know where I can get a pair of enclosed cam silver colored
  > > skewers? (The ones from my Bridgestone 400 look good, but the rear is
  > > too short.)
  > > Also, am I correct in thinking I need a 165mm skewer for the rear?
  >
  > Are these good enough?
  >
  > http://www.velo-orange.com/voqrskewers.html
  >
  > -sv
  
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[RBW] Re: Floor pump

[David Faller]

I still have and use my Silca pump from 1975.  It's the only floor pump I've 
ever owned!

Kinda hard to beat that...

  - Original Message - 
  From: johnb 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2009 6:52 AM
  Subject: [RBW] Floor pump



  Okay, it appears my Pedro's floor pump gave up the ghost this morning
  after about 4-5 years of use. So unless I can revive it tonight, I am
  in the market for a new floor pump. I am looking for something that
  will

  a) last longer than 4-5 years
  b) be serviceable if necessary

  I am sure people have some favorites out there!

  thanks!
  john
  
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[RBW] Re: Floor pump

[David Faller]

Mine,too.  We always referred to them as Silca track pumps.  Dark blue paint on 
a hunk of Columbus, with decals.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Eric Norris 
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 2009 3:33 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Floor pump



  Yes, I think the old pumps were different.  Mine has a cast iron base, and 
the barrel is made of custom-drawn Columbus tubing--it's the only pump I have 
with a tubing decal on it.

  --Eric
  www.campyonly.com
  www.wheelsnorth.org

   
  On Tuesday, November 03, 2009, at 03:12PM, "JGS"  
wrote:
  >
  >I ordered a Silca and I thought it was terrible.  It just felt like a
  >piece of cheap junk.  I know people love them and maybe they used to
  >be better made or maybe I just don't know what I'm doing.
  >
  >Got this:  http://www.sks-germany.com/sks.php?a=product&i=2191753745&l=en
  >
  >And love it.  Feels solid and has worked great for me.
  >>
  >
  >

  
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[RBW] Re: Gluing cork grips

[David Faller]

That's what I've always used on any grip ever.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Patrick in VT 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 7:08 AM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Gluing cork grips



  hairspray works well for me.  holds just fine, but I can remove
  without too much trouble.
  
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Re: [RBW] Re: Protecting the top tube from brake cable

[David Faller]

I think I like this method!  May give it a try next time I get new cables...
  - Original Message - 
  From: benzzoy 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2009 7:58 PM
  Subject: [RBW] Re: Protecting the top tube from brake cable


  On Nov 18, 6:36 am, Seth Vidal  wrote:
  > How does everyone protect their head tube paint from being abused by
  > their shifter cable housing? I've found some amount of cable rub
  > happening and I'm not sure how to protect the head tube better.

  You can protect your headtube paint by routing the cable housing in
  such a way as to avoid rubbing the headtube. :)

  For me, the rubbing only occurs with the derailleur housings.  To
  address that, I route the right housing (for the rear derailleur
  cable) around to the left cable stop, and the left housing to the
  right cable stop.  This creates a larger arc that does not rub the
  headtube.  Then I cross the cable on the downtube, such that when they
  reach the BB shell, they're back to their right side=rear cable, left
  side=front cable positions.  The crossing between the cable stop and
  the BB shell does not impact shifting and the gentler arc probably
  helps mitigate housing friction to boot.

  See: http://tinyurl.com/yaqgdse and http://tinyurl.com/5c9a5

  -B

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Re: [RBW] Thanksgiving Ride with Quickbeam and new Zugster Bag

[David Faller]

Wow.  Great set!  That Zugster is mighty tempting!

Dave
Redding, CA
  - Original Message - 
  From: Esteban 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Thursday, November 26, 2009 10:54 AM
  Subject: [RBW] Thanksgiving Ride with Quickbeam and new Zugster Bag


  Took a little pre-feast spin on the Quickbeam this morning.  I would
  be remiss in not mentioning that this is a wonderful, perfect
  bicycle!  I also took some glamor shots, as the QB had its new bags on
  for the first time: Zugster medium Rando Bag and Tool Pouch.  Adam is
  a master bag maker, for sure.  I would highly recommend getting on his
  wait list.  Of course, I heard about the available bag right here on
  the list!  Adam mentioned that some retailer in Japan just bought up
  all his tool bags.

  http://www.flickr.com/photos/25671...@n02/sets/72157622881252990/

  Thanksgiving can be a good time to think on craft - food, bicycles,
  bags -- all the things that are made with old-world thoughtfulness and
  care.  Enjoy, and Happy Thanksgiving!

  Esteban
  San Diego, Calif.

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Re: [RBW] AHH as a road bike

[David Faller]

You probably need to identify what you personally consider to be "better" in a 
road bike.  I thought about a Hilsen, but got a Ram.  I'm not sure I could have 
told the difference at the time, as far as which was "better".  What I later 
found made an enormous difference was tires.  I went from Ruffy Tuffy to Jack 
Brown greens.  It's like a different (and better) bike!  You might find the 
feel you're seeking by going the other direction and putting on narrower tires.

IMHO, you should experiment extensively with tires on your Hilsen to see if you 
have some sort of revelation about feel.  I think you'd regret trading away the 
Hilsen for some elusive sense of road feel.  What if you did trade for a Ram 
and discovered you actually liked it less?


  - Original Message - 
  From: Shawn 
  To: RBW Owners Bunch 
  Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 6:34 AM
  Subject: [RBW] AHH as a road bike


  Now that I have the Atlantis, I have been thinking of making my Hilsen
  more of a roadish type bike to use on week-end rides with my friends
  on our smooth local MUP. Can anyone tell me how the AHH might handle,
  ride and look with 25mm to 28mm tires on it. I know most people don't
  ride that skinny of a tire but any feed back would be appreciated.   I
  am trying to separate the two bikes into two distinct categories;
  Atlantis- touring, camping, commuter= big tires; Hilsen- club rides,
  events, exercise, go faster=skinner tires. It seems like the Hilsen’s
  clearance are wasted now that I have the Atlantis.

  I know it sounds like I want a more traditional type road bike and the
  Roadeo would fit that bill perfectly, except there is the matter of
  finances, can’t sell the Hilsen to totally finance the Roadeo, and I
  am not crazy about the fact the Roadeo does not have brazeons for at
  least a Mark type rack.

  Is the Rambouillet a better road bike than the Hilsen? If so maybe I
  should trade or sell my Hilsen for a Rambouillet. I want to be clear
  that I do not want to race, I just want to make a clear distinctions
  between the two bikes.

  Sorry about the long post and thanks in advance for any advice or
  feedback.
  Shawn

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Re: [RBW] finished hunqapillar build

[David Faller]

 Zowie!  I think you nailed it.  I hate this word, but "awesome" really 
fits here.


Dave

On 9/25/2010 7:26 PM, erik jensen wrote:

Taking a break after a day of assembly. Looking forward to tomorrow!

photo:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/bikenoir/5024265087/lightbox/


erik
--
oakland, ca
bikenoir.blogspot.com 
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Re: [RBW] wimpy cassettes and chain rings

[David Faller]

 It all comes down to the physics of you and your bike.  Torque, 
cleaning and lubrication are most likely your issues.  Too much torque 
and not enough of the other two = component wear.  You sound like a 
forceful rider, or one who is frequently in situations that require 
above average demands on a drive train.  As to whether components have 
become "softer" is hard to argue, unless a lot of people are reporting 
these same problems.


Either way, unless component manufacturers want to get on the list and 
admit their products are more delicate than XX years ago, the whole 
matter is guesswork.  I broke a chain for the first time in 30+ years 
recently.  Is it because I weigh more than I used to, or are chains just 
punky now.  Hard to say.


Dave


On 9/28/2010 7:09 PM, Steve Palincsar wrote:

On Tue, 2010-09-28 at 19:03 -0700, MobileBill wrote:

The questions: Could it be that cassettes and chain rings have become
remarkably less durable in the past XX years? Are lightweight high end
cassettes and chain rings more or less durable than lower end rings?
Or have the indents and carvings on the hyperglide systems made
components more vulnerble to wear? Is it that modern cassettes and
rings are machine (laser?) cut whereas the old freewheels were hand
cut? Any significant difference in manufacturers (shimano vs. sram?)
Or am I just making this up?
The situation: I'm kind of appalled that I've managed to wear
serious shark's fins in my middle, 36T, ring in fewer than 3,500
miles. Cassette is just as bad. Should have changed em out a 1,000
miles ago. Both are Riv standard issue, which is at the low end of the
shimano scale (HG30), and would presumably be heavier and perhaps more
durable than the super lightweights at the upper end of the scale (HG
70). It's a rough world on my commute, frequent stops and quick
accelerations, grinding hills, frequent rains and lots of additional
weight from computers, groceries and what not. But the transmission
gets frequent maintenance, and I have freewheels and chain rings that
are very nearly two decades old and still useable.
Implications: At this rate, I'm going to be replacing cassette and
one to two chain rings (not to mention the chain) twice! each year on
the beloved Saluki. Is it time to reassess whether cassette and chain
ring improvements are really an improvement? Are there transmission
components more appropriate for Riv riders who have little use for the
racing style refinements of modern cassettes and chainrings?


I'm using those same Hyperglide components -- typically XTR (cranks)
and XT, cassettes usually Ultegra or HG70 and have been doing so
for quite some time.  I have tens of thousands of miles on chain
rings, and I usually get many thousands of miles on chains and cassettes.
On the other hand, I used to get no more than 2-3000 miles on a
freewheel back in the 70s and 80s.





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Re: [RBW] Rivendell Readers 36-40

[David Faller]

 36 through 39 are paper-only at this time.

On 10/10/2010 9:54 AM, Johnny Alien wrote:

The Riv Readers discs only go up to issue 35.  While issue 40 and 41
were available for download on the website it appears there is a gap
with 36-40.  Were they available for free download as well?  If so is
it OK for someone to share them with me?  Otherwise maybe it just we
be a little while until they are on disc I guess.  My e-collection is
incomplete. :)



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Re: [RBW] free: Riv Wool Stubby hats

[David Faller]

 Can I claim one?!

Redding Dave

On 10/14/2010 3:57 PM, Eric wrote:

I have (2) two, new Riv Wool Stubby hats. Free to a "good" home. I'd
appreciate some change me change for postage. Thanks!





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Re: [RBW] Derailleur Cabling

[David Faller]

Just run a simple piece of Teflon housing lining, about 3" long, onto 
the cable and place it in the cable grooves and you're done.  My Ram 
came that way, and it works perfectly.  Don't overthink it.


Any shop would probably just give you a couple of pieces if you don't 
have any in your parts bin.



On 10/23/2010 11:31 AM, kevin lindsey wrote:

Are the derailleur cables on my Bleriot meant to run bare under the
bottom bracket, or should there be something between the wire and the
paint?  The guides don't seem to be wide enough to accept cable
housing, but it's hard for me to believe that the paint down there is
going to hold up very long against the sawing motion of the derailleur
cables.
Any comments would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Kevin



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Re: [RBW] Any Tandems?

[David Faller]

Riv doesn't make a tandem, so it's probably not really "On Topic"...

On 11/9/2010 10:26 PM, manueljohnacosta wrote:

I leave it to the wisdom of the group. My girlfriend and I just
recently test rode a tandem. We had a great time and found that riding
a tandem works for both of our different riding styles. Wondering if
any had any suggestions on tandem bikes we could take a look at?
Thanks
-Manny



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Re: [RBW] Nice Hillborne -- almost wish I'd kept it!

[David Faller]

Nice to know you've finally achieved closure with the Sam Hillborne 
Experiment.


On to the next model!  Time for that Roadeo fixie?


On 11/17/2010 12:44 PM, PATRICK MOORE wrote:

Built up with some old, some new, some average, some chi chi parts for
pending sale. Rather nice, no? Almost -- but not quite -- wish I'd
kept it: the main weakness of the SH, for *my* purposes, is what for
others would be its principal benefit, that is, it is a narrow-wheeled
-- 40 mm max -- all rounder, while my replacement Fargo can take 65s
for sand *plus* fenders, and 40s for touring.

The Sam has had lowrider braze-ons added by our own, local Dave Porter.



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Re: [RBW] Rim / Spoke Cracks... Should I be concerned?

[David Faller]

If this isn't an indicator to you to replace a rim, what is?!  Don't 
wait for them to fail whilst riding.




On 3/27/2010 1:34 PM, Rick Smith wrote:

Discovered these while cleaning the Saluki's rims today:

http://m.flickr.com/?done=1&id=4468086048&magic_cookie=60a853592b9cce68b74f0172dda07f87&title=Spoke+crack&description=#/photos/74396...@n00/4468088476/

http://m.flickr.com/?done=1&id=4468086048&magic_cookie=60a853592b9cce68b74f0172dda07f87&title=Spoke+crack&description=#/photos/74396...@n00/4467312843/

http://m.flickr.com/?done=1&id=4468086048&magic_cookie=60a853592b9cce68b74f0172dda07f87&title=Spoke+crack&description=#/photos/74396...@n00/4468086048/

Is it beausage or time to replace the rims?

   


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Re: [RBW] silvers v. dura-ace

[David Faller]

I had DA's on my Ram.  I usually used the indexing, but kept 
experimenting with friction mode.  I eventually saw no reason for 
indexing and left them in the friction setting.  I always hated how 
stiff the DA's were to operate, and had a detented, grinding feel.  I 
finally got some Silver levers and couldn't believe how much smoother 
and easier they are!


Unless you want indexing, I see no reason for ever choosing the Dura 
Ace.  As far as their "spear-like" appearance:  I've never been poked by 
them anywhere, anytime.  YMMV.



On 4/25/2010 3:34 AM, happyriding wrote:

Does anyone prefer dura-ace bar end shifters over silvers?  The
silvers look like spears ready to impale a knee cap.

   


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Re: [RBW] Re: Hobbies that compliment your Rivendell lifestyle

[David Faller]

I, too, brew.  My pale ales and IPAs come out oh-so-nice.

Bikes and Beer.  A classic combination that transcends age, riding 
preference, etc.


Dave


On 4/27/2010 12:06 PM, soapscum wrote:

Other hobbies:

I brew beer. It's good, too! Bonus! I have my own IPA recipe I call
"Longball IPA" that I hope to enter in competition this year, if I
don't drink it all. I sail; I share a little 22' catalina with a
friend. We keep her moored on Puget Sound. I tinker, lately with
arrays of leds and low voltage electricity. So, really the perfect day
is (Riv content!): ride the Hillborne out to Shilshole Marina, with a
stop at the Fremont Brewing Company, sail all afternoon, ride to The
Sloop for a post-sail libation, ride home. I play guitar once in a
while too, and I'm finally going to pick up Irish fiddle this year.
Life is good.


On Apr 27, 11:26 am, andrew hill  wrote:
   

maybe you could adapt something like this:http://bikeblender.com/

;)

-andrew

On Apr 27, 2010, at 11:21 AM, Bruce wrote:



 

So, rig up an electric grinder on the sturdy rack:  
http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/gamoh-cargo-rack/20-028
   
 

power the grinder with 
this:http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/suntour-dynamo-wheel/18-275
   
 

And carry the supplies 
here:http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/sackville-saddlesack-small/20-131
   
 

From: kps
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Sent: Tue, April 27, 2010 1:08:25 PM
Subject: [RBW] Re: Hobbies that compliment your Rivendell lifestyle
   
 

hi justin,
i'm into coffee too... i just bought a handcrank grinder that i'm
quite happy with for grinding
my morning brew.
   
 

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Re: [RBW] Rom - 59cm for sale on Ebay

[David Faller]

Apparently shot with a film camera...



On 4/29/2010 5:16 PM, BykMor wrote:

Just noticed this during an unrelated search. No relation.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rivendell-Romulus-59cm-Road-Bike-/300421100090?cmd=ViewItem&pt=Road_Bikes&hash=item45f27e323a#ht_500wt_1182

   


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Re: [RBW] FS: Parting out is such sweet sorrow - Cinelli bars and stem

[David Faller]

I guess posting a price might help, too...

He'd like $65 for the pair, CONUS shipping included.


On 5/2/2010 9:05 PM, Dave Faller wrote:

My friend is just about done selling off the parts bin in the garage.
He asked if the RBW group would like a shot before he tries his luck
on ebay.

He recently parted out a Specialized Sequoia (lugged steel) from the
80s and wants to sell the Cinelli bars and stem as a set.  He is also
very tired of cleaning tape residue, etc., but assures me these are in
very nice condition, despite the munge.

Cinelli mod 66-40 handlebar, 1981 – so there’s no cable grooves.
Campione Del Mundo model.  Near flawless.

Cinelli 1A stem. 10cm. Near flawless.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/redding_dave/sets/72157623855656095/

   


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Re: [RBW] Re: is this confusing or am i missing something? Waterford Hillbornes?

[David Faller]

I think you've hit the nail on the head...

A double top tube is an opportunity for:

More lugs!


On 5/6/2010 8:17 AM, jpp wrote:

I would say that the double top tube is not completely necessary for
structural integrity.  I would just say it looks awesome!  Very unique
design, but I agree with newenglandbike that it is like lugs, 650b or
moustache bars, Riv always pushes the boundaries of the normal
definition of what a bike is.  That is why I like them.

   


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Re: [RBW] Re: 650B dead or alive?

[David Faller]

Then I'd better order two dozen Jack Brown greens ASAP!

On 5/12/2010 6:47 AM, rswat...@me.com wrote:

I always stockpile parts I like. 650B is no exception. I used to hoard my favorite 26" rims 
and tires, too. Grant said somewhere a while back: "if you find something you like, buy a 
lifetime supply because it will soon be discontinued or "improved"

Ryan




On May 12, 2010, at 7:24 AM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery  
wrote:

   

If I was engaging in FUD, I would suggest stockpiling far more than a
couple pairs of tires. I don't think there's any reason not to get a
650B bike. I like 650B and am committed to selling 650B bikes. I'm
probably getting a 650B bike for my wife. But I think that the 650B
market is small enough that there is a better than average chance of
volatility.

In the bike business, there are very few big players. It's nice that
Velocity makes 650B rims, but Velocity isn't exactly a blue chip
corporation on which to depend for long-term stability. They are a
small outfit, and 650B rims are a small part of what they do. Even now
Velocity USA is out of stock on any given listed rim (650B or
otherwise) more often than not. Will they still be "committed" to 650B
in five years if the number of 650B bikes being sold shows signs of
decline? I wouldn't bet on it. That's why I think it makes sense to
squirrel away a pair of rims, just in case. If I'm wrong, you'll still
probably need the rims someday.

On May 12, 6:24 am, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
 

In the world of computers, we call this FUD:  the spreading of Fear,
Uncertainty and Doubt.

On Tue, 2010-05-11 at 22:33 -0700, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:





   

The discussion about the new Pacenti 650B tires momentarily ventured
into commentary on "the future of 650B". I thought this was worth a
discussion of its own.
 
   

Two or three years ago we had 650B bikes at Hiawatha Cyclery from at
least three manufacturers: Rivendell, Kogswell, and Rawland. Now
Rivendell does 650B only on smaller sizes of certain models, Kogswell
seems to be on an indefinite hiatus, and Rawland's new models have
been displayed at various venues with 622 and 559 wheels (with disc
brakes, 650B will still be an option).
 
   

To the extent that 650B has gone mainstream, it is by and large in the
27.5" wheel size for mountain bikes. It seems like new disc-specific
rim and fat-knobby tire options are proliferating, but the 650B rim
and tire options for road bikes have not expanded much, if at all,
since I first read about 650B in the Rivendell Reader. There are some
small importers/manufacturers like Jan Heine with the Gran Bois and
now Pacenti with his Pari-Moto, but they have yet to get their tires
into the QBP catalog or on any Treks. I was pleasantly surprised to
see another of my mainstream distributors pick up some 650B stuff, but
again, it was mostly of the MTB variety.
 
   

I'm not sure Rivendell and a few custom framebuilders can sell enough
650B bikes to support much expansion, or even maintain current levels
of the 650B rim/tire selection and availability. Unless the 650B size
gets picked up by Trek or some other major player, I think its future
will be at best as a niche item with limited selection and spotty
availability. I'd encourage 650B bike owners and aficionados to
stockpile an extra set of rims and a couple sets of favorite tires,
just in case.
 

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650B dead or alive?

[David Faller]

I was addressing Grant's quote about how things we like tend to get 
improved out of existence, that's all...


On 5/12/2010 6:59 AM, Bruce wrote:

Except JBGs are 700 size rubber


----
*From:* David Faller 
*To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
*Sent:* Wed, May 12, 2010 8:52:37 AM
*Subject:* Re: [RBW] Re: 650B dead or alive?

Then I'd better order two dozen Jack Brown greens ASAP!


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Re: [RBW] should you loctite the bolts on your new Rivendell?

[David Faller]

Inserting the work "Rivendell" does not make a post like this "off topic".



On 5/14/2010 11:14 PM, happyriding wrote:

What is loctite? Is there more than one kind? Apparently I NEED it for
my new dirt bike?

So I just got a cheap chinese dirtbike and was told I need to LOCTITE
everything. If you LOCTITE something does that make it impossible to
undo if you need to? What kind of LOCKTITE would you recomend using on
the bolts of a dirtbike? THANKS!!!


Best Answer - Chosen by Voters
--

Has anyone explained WHY you were told that about your new Chinese
bike?

You can look around and see only Rare mention of "Loctiting
Everything" on the japanese Dirtbikes.

It's Not because the Chinese Vibrate more than the japanese.

Loctite does NOT keep Bolts/Nuts Tight.
It merely keeps them from falling off when they come loose,,,and any
parts they're holding coming adrift.

Fastener Tension is what keeps things tight.
Pretty Much the same as a "Spring Tension" Effect.

When you Torque a Fastener to correct specs,,,
the shank STRETCHES and holds the tension in a spring-like effect.

Too Loose,,,and ya dont have enough tension to hold the load.

Too TIGHT and you've exceeded the Yield Strength of the
Fasteneryou've "sprung the spring",,,Over Stretched it.

Old Saying,,"Over Torqued Bolt is a Half Broken Bolt"

There's all sorts of GRADES of fasteners.
Higher Grades have both Higher Yield Strength AND typically a "high
modulus of elasticity"---they are SPRINGIER.

LOW Grade Bolts are Soft,Weak,Spongy,and with Low Yield strength.

When you Torque them to "Correct Specs",,,they Stretch too.
But when You LOAD them,,,that exceeds their elasticity.

The Result is that the fastener PERMANENTLY Stretches.
A Bolt becomes actually LONGER.

A "Longer Bolt" gives exact same effect as a LOOSE BOLT which is not
tightened down all the way.

Dynamic Loading/Movement,etc will eventually LENGTHEN,,,Not
"loosen",,the fastener to the point where it Becomes Loose.

Then Vibrations will cause nuts to back off,fall off,,screws&  bolts
to vibrate out of their hole and so on.

Loctite can be BAD NEWS on Low Grade hardware.

Exagerated example:
Say you have a Bolt that has a 1" Clamped Length when installed and
torqued.
And it Stretches in service to 1 1/8".(Gross exageration)
But OBVIOUSLY it's then Wobbling Loose,,right?
It's no longer even bottomed out on the parts,,not even "touching".

So what does that Normally Require?
RE-Tightening,obviously.
(In Reality,,it NEEDS a Better Grade Bolt)
So You have a Low Grade Bolt,,,loosened from Over Stretching
and a SEMI-SEIZED Thread from Loctite.

The LOCTITE itself introduces a False Torque during Re-Torque
operation.
It RAISES the Break-Out Torque just to MOVE it.
That gets Added to the Total Torque.

So you either :
a)See 15ft Lbs on your Torque Wrench,,,while Clamping Force is only
equivalent of 10FT lbs.
Because 5ft lbs goes Just to TURN the Fastener
or
b)You Torque the Threads and Shank of the fastener sytem without
applying ANY clamping force
or
c)You try to REMOVE the fastener which has been Over stretched beyond
it's yield strength,,,and the Torque demand of the Loctite allows you
the Break the Fastener becomes it comes loose.

Now,,,did you see me say ANYWHERE that "Locktite is BAD??"
Or,,,"DO NOT USE Locktite"??

No,,it's a fine product and does an incredibly dependable job in it's
intended&  appropriate applications.
People bet their Lives on it,,,and the safety/security of Zillion
Dollar Equipment.

But you have to Focus on the Key Words>>"Intended&  Appropriate
Applications"

There's LOTS more to the matter than knowing what each Color of
Loctite Does.
The explanation of THAT simple aspect is written right on the
product's instructions.

..…
The Best,,,and generally the ONLY advantage that Loctite can offer any
unit assembled with Low Grade Hardware is to prevent a part from
falling off.

It will Retain a Loose Bolt or Nut.

That SOUNDS like,,,"Well thats what it's supposed to do"
And that's correct.

But ,,THEN What?

What Loctite DOES NOT DO is prevent parts from coming loose due to
Fastener Stretch/Yield.

Nothing about Loctite improves the metallurgy of the fasteners
involved.

It ONLY increases Torque Requirement to prevent vibrations from
spinning a nut off,etc.

Consider what happens NEXT,,,when you get tired of your exhaust
flopping around,,,Handlebars slipping,,,footpegs wobbling around,,etc.

And all your "safely Loctited" nuts/bolts are Still Present on the Now
Loose hardware.

Tighten them Up?
Good Luck.

It was "half Broken" when originally installed,,
Yielded it's clamp length till it got LOOSE,,,
Now You wanna Torque it AGAINbut with the addition of the Loctite
Breakout Torque Requirement?

I'll say it again,,,NOTHING Wrong with Using Locktite.
At least it "FEELS GOOD" that you've done SOMETHING.

But whoever told you to use Loctite SPEFICALLY BECAUSE
You're bike is CHINESE does N

Re: [RBW] Re: WAS: The Bleriot Build NOW: Bleriot Sizing

[David Faller]

I hear that.  I'm 5' 7" and my PBH is 85.  I have a 58 cm Ram and it 
fits wonderfully.  Of course, I have a 9 cm stem that's _just_ short 
enough, but...




On 6/12/2010 3:39 PM, Steve Palincsar wrote:

On Sat, 2010-06-12 at 15:23 -0700, Johnny Alien wrote:
   

I totally believe that PBH size varies greatly. I was just shocked
that I am as out of proportion as I am. :)
 

I used to work with a guy who was exactly the same height as me.  I ride
a 59-60cm frame; he rides at most a 56.  We stood side by side, shoulder
to shoulder one time in front of the mirror in the mens' room at work.
His waist line was 6-7" lower than mine.





   


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Re: [RBW] Shifting issues with TA Pro 5 Vis cranks/rings

[David Faller]

Not to sound pedantic, but this might be a matter of using a FD that is 
designed for use with triples vs. doubles.  The angle of lift required 
for triples is slightly steeper, the arc and length of the FD cage is 
larger, and the range of motion is wider.  Cage width vis a vis chain 
width certainly factors in, but I'd bet using a compatible triple FD 
would have a better chance of solving this (emphasis on the elusive term 
"compatible").  I don't know from experience, but I've read that Campy 
FD's are one of the more forgiving derailleurs.


On 6/18/2010 9:12 PM, XO-1.org Rough Riders wrote:

Hi:

I've never gotten suitable shifting with a TA Pro 5 Vis crankset with
32/46 rings. This is mated with Shimano 9-speed on the rear (11x34)
and bar-end shifters (Shimano 9 also). First I had it set up with a
Suntour Superbe Pro front derailleur and it wanted to overshift once
every 25 to 50 shifts, no matter how I adjusted the derailleur.

The local bike guru, who knows stuff old and new, suggested a modern
front derailleur, as they are designed to shifter narrower 9/10-speed
chains, whereas the old Suntour derailleur was meant for 6/7-speed
chains. The thought being: Maybe the "old" derailleur's cage is wider
because the chains for which it was intended were wider; now that
wider cage made it throw a narrow chain too far. That make some
sense.

Well, I've installed a brand new Ultegra 10-spd front derailleur and
it seems to keep the chain on either one ring or the other, and it
downshifts fine, but it takes a major tug on the shifter to get it to
move the chain to the big ring. In fact, when I upshift, what it's
trying to do is shove the chain between the rings, into the hole
between the five arms of the right crank, in the sizable vertical gap,
or hole, created by the 14 tooth difference in ring size. Of course,
modern rings, with their ramps and pins, would probably toss that
chain right up onto the big ring instantaneously. But I like the low Q-
factor of these TA arms (this is actually my GF's bike I am talking
about; she's 5'4" and prefer the narrower tread even more than I do),
plus the ring sizes available are preferable to a "compact" design.

Yes, the derailleur is mounted as low as possible abov the top rights.
In fact, the front derailleur cage is so long, it almost hits the
right chainstay down at the bottom. I find that odd since a 46 tooth
big ring is not small, at all. I don't see how this could work on a
crank with a smaller big ring.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

BTW, sorry I don't seem to have a good shot of the bike, or especially
its drivetrain online, though you can see her with the bike (gold 1974
Williams converted to 650B wheels) in front of the Nate Harrison Grade
sign near the bottom of this post:

http://www.xo-1.org/2008/12/rough-riding-northern-san-diego-county.html

We're headed out to Ramona / Black Canyon tomorrow and I'll get some
shots of the parts in question then, in case that might help any of
you help me assay the situation. Here's the blog report of a semi-
similar version of the riding we're doing tomorrow:

http://www.xo-1.org/2009/01/rough-riding-north-eastern-san-diego.html

Thanks.

- Chris Kostman
La Jolla, CA
http://www.adventurecorps.com
http://www.XO-1.org
http://www.the508.com

   


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