[RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
Best picture ever On Saturday, August 24, 2013 10:50:16 AM UTC-7, Liesl wrote: Design away the top tube. If you get the twin transect right you have plenty of structural support. We have mixtes, love'em. Ah, I had quite a bit of discussion on this very point while I was at Riv! I've been, shall we say, an extreme tomboy ever since 1959 (the year I pooped out) . One of the things this means is that I have had a knee-jerk reaction to what gets perceived as girls' bikes. You can see how this plays out in the attached photo of me circa 1963 having stolen my brother's Raleigh and matching Green Bay Packers football uniform. It's kind of a nice Deacon-Patrick-barefoot-safety-football-helmet mash-up but I think my pbh was a little off to actually go for a spin. But I think the photo makes the case for my inveterate tomboy personality trait. I entertained a mountain mixte long and hard coming into this custom adventure. As I was making the decision in 2006 that led to my Saluki, I rode a Glorious and just didn't fall in love with it. Then when I was at Riv for a few days this past March to figure out the custom, I rode a Betty to the grocery store (on a Riv mission for 85% chocolate) but I don't even think I got two blocks before coming back and asking for the Appaloosa again. They just didn't feel right to me. The subject of my self perception and perceptions of gendered bikes came up in talking about all of this with Grant and the crew. It was interesting talking to the Riv Chicos who talked about having had to overcome the mixte-as-girl-bike stereotype as they became fans and owners of Bettys/Yves/Gloriouses/Wilburys. The Riv Chico boys are doing way better than Riv Chica me as I have not been able to bend my own gender bending. I need a top tube. Oh, and the Phil rear hub won't be a freewheel. -Riv Chica Warrior -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
Dual diagatubes?! This bike is going to be amazing and truly unique. Parts lists for the build sounds cool. I love those IRD needle bearing headsets- best ever IMHO, and the Phil Rivy hub will be sweet. Also regarding the 40/26 crank, I have one and after exhaustively cataloging/obsessing about the range of ratios I rode it, and it works great. You might shift up front a bit more than with a 36 or 38t bigger ring (or 28t small)- BUT for me, commuting on a quickbeam 30 miles R/T fairly regularly (and loving it)... being able to shift while pedaling(!) is planted firmly in perspective, and furthermore, I just got much better at front shifts on the geared bikes. Matt On Thursday, August 22, 2013 5:08:36 PM UTC-4, Liesl wrote: Here's some fun news! I talked with Mark at Riv and there seems to be a groovy design solution to having a really small frame (in the 50cm range) with a diagatube! When last you tuned in (if you tuned in at all), you might recall (or might not) that Grant said that getting a diagatube, lugs, and clearance for 55mm tires and fenders was like trying to get 4 balls into 3 and a half holes. Here's how it's likely to go: 26 wheels (already knew that) and— —*double* small diameter old school Mixte-style diagatubes that are mitered and fillet brazed somewhere about the head tube. Where it's brazed to will be Mark Nobilette's choice; could be to the top tube, could be to the head tube, could be to the bottom tube. Mark was quite excited as he described it. It would be truly totally custom. Current thinking on the build kit is as follows: 58 Boscos, Meisha's Cork (normal), Paul Thumbies + Shimano BarEnds, brake levers to be determined, Tange/IRD NeedL BlastR Roller Drive Headset Phil Rivy Hub - Rivy 32h Rear Hub, New SON 28 32H Front Hub, 26 Aeroheat Rims, Schwalbe Big Bens Sugino XD2 wide/low double Crank 40t x 26t, VP Thin Gripster pedals Brooks Champion Flyer select, Paul Tall and Handsome seatpost As always, your thoughts are welcomed! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
On 08/22/2013 10:55 PM, William wrote: Regardless of the cassette in question, the big jump is due to the 53.8% difference between the chain rings. My jump is 47% between chainrings. That's much bigger than the 27% jump from your 36 to your 46, but it is smaller than the 50% jump from your 24 to your 36. I don't know if I should go mad or not! There's a difference between going from a rarely used small granny to middle ring, and a routine, do it all day long on every ride, shift from small to large chain ring. It takes a lot of drama to force me to shift to the granny, and I don't mind a little of the same getting off of it. It happens only in exceptional circumstances: I spend most of my time riding in rolling country, not the mountains, and in rolling country I don't have to use the granny.A wide range double, on the other hand, is shifted often. However, everyone has to find gearing that they're happy with. There are obviously some who can tolerate frequent wide-range crossovers, and -- especially with the new breed of ultra wide range cassettes like the 11-36 -- many whose needs are fully met by them. Personally, I think the standard Riv 110/74 compact triple is a better solution for most riders; but I'm not a STI user and I'm very familiar with this kind of triple and don't find them even slightly confusing. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
That sounds like it will be one sweet bike ! For those debating about the 40/26 chainring choice, you seem to miss the part about Liesl's rear hub choice : A Phil Rivy . That is a freewheel hub. Likely she will be using a 13t low cog, maybe a 12t if she has them. I could totally see having a 80 inch top gear being just fine, it depends on the rider ! Even on my Bombadil, with a 24/36/48 , I ride in the 36t using a 13-32 7sp. FW most of the time. I could , if I had to even use the 36t only, especially if I did not live in the hilly terrain I do ! As far as brakes,while I'm one for old school post style cantilevers, I'd say get some polished silver Pauls. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
There are more compromises available to riders than that between a triple on the one hand and a w r d with frequent crossover shifts, on the other. The whole point of switching to w r d's is, for some, precisely to avoid the annoying crossover shifts between large and middle on standard triples. My own choice was to give up the high end for an 85 high so that I can have close ratios in the middle of the 9 speed cassette while preserving the large cogs, so that the outer gives me more or less the range of the middle and the inner remains a granny. I find a 44/30 with 14-23 7 excellent for the Ram's pavement, and a 38/24 with 13-32 9 excellent for the Fargo's dirt. Ram on the outer: 85-79-74-70-64-60-50; inner: 45-40-35. Most of my riding in rolling terrain in the 60 to 74. Fargo (probably closer to Steve's triple): 85-73-69-65-61-55-48-42-34; inner 30-27-22. Most of my riding in dirt in the 42 to 65. On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 6:35 AM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote: On 08/22/2013 10:55 PM, William wrote: Regardless of the cassette in question, the big jump is due to the 53.8% difference between the chain rings. My jump is 47% between chainrings. That's much bigger than the 27% jump from your 36 to your 46, but it is smaller than the 50% jump from your 24 to your 36. I don't know if I should go mad or not! There's a difference between going from a rarely used small granny to middle ring, and a routine, do it all day long on every ride, shift from small to large chain ring. It takes a lot of drama to force me to shift to the granny, and I don't mind a little of the same getting off of it. It happens only in exceptional circumstances: I spend most of my time riding in rolling country, not the mountains, and in rolling country I don't have to use the granny.A wide range double, on the other hand, is shifted often. However, everyone has to find gearing that they're happy with. There are obviously some who can tolerate frequent wide-range crossovers, and -- especially with the new breed of ultra wide range cassettes like the 11-36 -- many whose needs are fully met by them. Personally, I think the standard Riv 110/74 compact triple is a better solution for most riders; but I'm not a STI user and I'm very familiar with this kind of triple and don't find them even slightly confusing. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscribe@**googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.**comrbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com . Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/**group/rbw-owners-bunchhttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch . For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/**groups/opt_outhttps://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out . -- *RESUMES THAT GET YOU NOTICED!* Certified Resume Writer http://resumespecialties.com/index.html patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/ Albuquerque, NM -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
Personally, I think the standard Riv 110/74 compact triple is a better solution for most riders; but I'm not a STI user and I'm very familiar with this kind of triple and don't find them even slightly confusing. I totally agree with you there. Very useful and very non-confusing. That's why I have that setup, with bar-con shifters on both my touring bike and my tandem. It's fantastic! Furthermore, I'm glad we completely agree about compact doubles. You run your bike like a compact double -PLUS- a granny bail out for extraordinary circumstances that you practically never use. That's precisely how I use my touring bike and my tandem. A close range 46/36 compact double would be fine for you, just like it is with most people, but like a lot of people, you also choose to be prepared for extraordinary circumstances. I have no problem with any of that. Also, it doesn't surprise me much that when you tried a 44/30 and a 40/26 that you found the enormous jump troublesome, particularly on rollers. As you correctly pointed out, people have to find what they like on the terrain they will be riding. I end up using my 44/30 as a 1x9 (or 1x10 on one bike) PLUS a climbing range. If my riding was more on the Pacific coast, where there are a ton of rollers, I would probably swap my 30 tooth ring for a 32 or a 34, because the terrain would dictate far more frequent front shifts, as you correctly pointed out. On Friday, August 23, 2013 5:35:44 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 08/22/2013 10:55 PM, William wrote: Regardless of the cassette in question, the big jump is due to the 53.8% difference between the chain rings. My jump is 47% between chainrings. That's much bigger than the 27% jump from your 36 to your 46, but it is smaller than the 50% jump from your 24 to your 36. I don't know if I should go mad or not! There's a difference between going from a rarely used small granny to middle ring, and a routine, do it all day long on every ride, shift from small to large chain ring. It takes a lot of drama to force me to shift to the granny, and I don't mind a little of the same getting off of it. It happens only in exceptional circumstances: I spend most of my time riding in rolling country, not the mountains, and in rolling country I don't have to use the granny.A wide range double, on the other hand, is shifted often. However, everyone has to find gearing that they're happy with. There are obviously some who can tolerate frequent wide-range crossovers, and -- especially with the new breed of ultra wide range cassettes like the 11-36 -- many whose needs are fully met by them. Personally, I think the standard Riv 110/74 compact triple is a better solution for most riders; but I'm not a STI user and I'm very familiar with this kind of triple and don't find them even slightly confusing. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
Living in Chicago with most of my riding thereabouts and in the upper Midwest makes all this easy. My primary bike is a single speed. My tour bike is a 1x5. Up front is a 46. In back a Suntour Winner with 14-34 cogs. (thanks to Patrick Moore who pointed out a new cottage business in New Hampshire that repairs and preps freewheels) While my plan had been to stick with two bikes, I could not resist the temptation to get what will be my third Retrotec. More of a rough stuff cross type bike. This will also be a 1x. Plan to start with a 44 up front. The rear hub is a King single speed. I can either use a variety of King cogs, or, if gears seem necessary, the Jeff Jones (modified Shimano) 6 speed cassette - 16-36. (currently not offered on his site. Hope Mr. Jones starts making these again as I would like to have a couple more.) On Friday, August 23, 2013 11:57:58 AM UTC-5, William wrote: Personally, I think the standard Riv 110/74 compact triple is a better solution for most riders; but I'm not a STI user and I'm very familiar with this kind of triple and don't find them even slightly confusing. I totally agree with you there. Very useful and very non-confusing. That's why I have that setup, with bar-con shifters on both my touring bike and my tandem. It's fantastic! Furthermore, I'm glad we completely agree about compact doubles. You run your bike like a compact double -PLUS- a granny bail out for extraordinary circumstances that you practically never use. That's precisely how I use my touring bike and my tandem. A close range 46/36 compact double would be fine for you, just like it is with most people, but like a lot of people, you also choose to be prepared for extraordinary circumstances. I have no problem with any of that. Also, it doesn't surprise me much that when you tried a 44/30 and a 40/26 that you found the enormous jump troublesome, particularly on rollers. As you correctly pointed out, people have to find what they like on the terrain they will be riding. I end up using my 44/30 as a 1x9 (or 1x10 on one bike) PLUS a climbing range. If my riding was more on the Pacific coast, where there are a ton of rollers, I would probably swap my 30 tooth ring for a 32 or a 34, because the terrain would dictate far more frequent front shifts, as you correctly pointed out. On Friday, August 23, 2013 5:35:44 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 08/22/2013 10:55 PM, William wrote: Regardless of the cassette in question, the big jump is due to the 53.8% difference between the chain rings. My jump is 47% between chainrings. That's much bigger than the 27% jump from your 36 to your 46, but it is smaller than the 50% jump from your 24 to your 36. I don't know if I should go mad or not! There's a difference between going from a rarely used small granny to middle ring, and a routine, do it all day long on every ride, shift from small to large chain ring. It takes a lot of drama to force me to shift to the granny, and I don't mind a little of the same getting off of it. It happens only in exceptional circumstances: I spend most of my time riding in rolling country, not the mountains, and in rolling country I don't have to use the granny.A wide range double, on the other hand, is shifted often. However, everyone has to find gearing that they're happy with. There are obviously some who can tolerate frequent wide-range crossovers, and -- especially with the new breed of ultra wide range cassettes like the 11-36 -- many whose needs are fully met by them. Personally, I think the standard Riv 110/74 compact triple is a better solution for most riders; but I'm not a STI user and I'm very familiar with this kind of triple and don't find them even slightly confusing. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
FWIW, you can make your own cassettes with Miche Shimano compatible outer cogs which go as high as 16 t. I used to run a cobbled 7 speed 16-18-20-23-26-34 or somesuch with the stock 46/36/24 X2D chainset set up for most of my riding in the 46. QBP has the Miches and they aren't very expensive. On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 1:16 PM, Matthew J matthewj...@gmail.com wrote: Living in Chicago with most of my riding thereabouts and in the upper Midwest makes all this easy. My primary bike is a single speed. My tour bike is a 1x5. Up front is a 46. In back a Suntour Winner with 14-34 cogs. (thanks to Patrick Moore who pointed out a new cottage business in New Hampshire that repairs and preps freewheels) While my plan had been to stick with two bikes, I could not resist the temptation to get what will be my third Retrotec. More of a rough stuff cross type bike. This will also be a 1x. Plan to start with a 44 up front. The rear hub is a King single speed. I can either use a variety of King cogs, or, if gears seem necessary, the Jeff Jones (modified Shimano) 6 speed cassette - 16-36. (currently not offered on his site. Hope Mr. Jones starts making these again as I would like to have a couple more.) On Friday, August 23, 2013 11:57:58 AM UTC-5, William wrote: Personally, I think the standard Riv 110/74 compact triple is a better solution for most riders; but I'm not a STI user and I'm very familiar with this kind of triple and don't find them even slightly confusing. I totally agree with you there. Very useful and very non-confusing. That's why I have that setup, with bar-con shifters on both my touring bike and my tandem. It's fantastic! Furthermore, I'm glad we completely agree about compact doubles. You run your bike like a compact double -PLUS- a granny bail out for extraordinary circumstances that you practically never use. That's precisely how I use my touring bike and my tandem. A close range 46/36 compact double would be fine for you, just like it is with most people, but like a lot of people, you also choose to be prepared for extraordinary circumstances. I have no problem with any of that. Also, it doesn't surprise me much that when you tried a 44/30 and a 40/26 that you found the enormous jump troublesome, particularly on rollers. As you correctly pointed out, people have to find what they like on the terrain they will be riding. I end up using my 44/30 as a 1x9 (or 1x10 on one bike) PLUS a climbing range. If my riding was more on the Pacific coast, where there are a ton of rollers, I would probably swap my 30 tooth ring for a 32 or a 34, because the terrain would dictate far more frequent front shifts, as you correctly pointed out. On Friday, August 23, 2013 5:35:44 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 08/22/2013 10:55 PM, William wrote: Regardless of the cassette in question, the big jump is due to the 53.8% difference between the chain rings. My jump is 47% between chainrings. That's much bigger than the 27% jump from your 36 to your 46, but it is smaller than the 50% jump from your 24 to your 36. I don't know if I should go mad or not! There's a difference between going from a rarely used small granny to middle ring, and a routine, do it all day long on every ride, shift from small to large chain ring. It takes a lot of drama to force me to shift to the granny, and I don't mind a little of the same getting off of it. It happens only in exceptional circumstances: I spend most of my time riding in rolling country, not the mountains, and in rolling country I don't have to use the granny.A wide range double, on the other hand, is shifted often. However, everyone has to find gearing that they're happy with. There are obviously some who can tolerate frequent wide-range crossovers, and -- especially with the new breed of ultra wide range cassettes like the 11-36 -- many whose needs are fully met by them. Personally, I think the standard Riv 110/74 compact triple is a better solution for most riders; but I'm not a STI user and I'm very familiar with this kind of triple and don't find them even slightly confusing. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- *RESUMES THAT GET YOU NOTICED!* Certified Resume Writer http://resumespecialties.com/index.html patrickmo...@resumespecialties.com http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/ Albuquerque, NM -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving
Re: [RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
if you're patient for slow delivery, Outside Outfitters has great prices on the Miche components - put my daughter's cassette together there. On Friday, August 23, 2013 6:16:05 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote: FWIW, you can make your own cassettes with Miche Shimano compatible outer cogs which go as high as 16 t. I used to run a cobbled 7 speed 16-18-20-23-26-34 or somesuch with the stock 46/36/24 X2D chainset set up for most of my riding in the 46. QBP has the Miches and they aren't very expensive. On Fri, Aug 23, 2013 at 1:16 PM, Matthew J matth...@gmail.comjavascript: wrote: Living in Chicago with most of my riding thereabouts and in the upper Midwest makes all this easy. My primary bike is a single speed. My tour bike is a 1x5. Up front is a 46. In back a Suntour Winner with 14-34 cogs. (thanks to Patrick Moore who pointed out a new cottage business in New Hampshire that repairs and preps freewheels) While my plan had been to stick with two bikes, I could not resist the temptation to get what will be my third Retrotec. More of a rough stuff cross type bike. This will also be a 1x. Plan to start with a 44 up front. The rear hub is a King single speed. I can either use a variety of King cogs, or, if gears seem necessary, the Jeff Jones (modified Shimano) 6 speed cassette - 16-36. (currently not offered on his site. Hope Mr. Jones starts making these again as I would like to have a couple more.) On Friday, August 23, 2013 11:57:58 AM UTC-5, William wrote: Personally, I think the standard Riv 110/74 compact triple is a better solution for most riders; but I'm not a STI user and I'm very familiar with this kind of triple and don't find them even slightly confusing. I totally agree with you there. Very useful and very non-confusing. That's why I have that setup, with bar-con shifters on both my touring bike and my tandem. It's fantastic! Furthermore, I'm glad we completely agree about compact doubles. You run your bike like a compact double -PLUS- a granny bail out for extraordinary circumstances that you practically never use. That's precisely how I use my touring bike and my tandem. A close range 46/36 compact double would be fine for you, just like it is with most people, but like a lot of people, you also choose to be prepared for extraordinary circumstances. I have no problem with any of that. Also, it doesn't surprise me much that when you tried a 44/30 and a 40/26 that you found the enormous jump troublesome, particularly on rollers. As you correctly pointed out, people have to find what they like on the terrain they will be riding. I end up using my 44/30 as a 1x9 (or 1x10 on one bike) PLUS a climbing range. If my riding was more on the Pacific coast, where there are a ton of rollers, I would probably swap my 30 tooth ring for a 32 or a 34, because the terrain would dictate far more frequent front shifts, as you correctly pointed out. On Friday, August 23, 2013 5:35:44 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 08/22/2013 10:55 PM, William wrote: Regardless of the cassette in question, the big jump is due to the 53.8% difference between the chain rings. My jump is 47% between chainrings. That's much bigger than the 27% jump from your 36 to your 46, but it is smaller than the 50% jump from your 24 to your 36. I don't know if I should go mad or not! There's a difference between going from a rarely used small granny to middle ring, and a routine, do it all day long on every ride, shift from small to large chain ring. It takes a lot of drama to force me to shift to the granny, and I don't mind a little of the same getting off of it. It happens only in exceptional circumstances: I spend most of my time riding in rolling country, not the mountains, and in rolling country I don't have to use the granny.A wide range double, on the other hand, is shifted often. However, everyone has to find gearing that they're happy with. There are obviously some who can tolerate frequent wide-range crossovers, and -- especially with the new breed of ultra wide range cassettes like the 11-36 -- many whose needs are fully met by them. Personally, I think the standard Riv 110/74 compact triple is a better solution for most riders; but I'm not a STI user and I'm very familiar with this kind of triple and don't find them even slightly confusing. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com javascript:. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.comjavascript: . Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- *RESUMES THAT GET YOU NOTICED!*
[RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
Hi friends, What a tutorial in gears! I'm learning quite a bit! A few comments on that topic from my perspective: I'm in the Edwin W camp. Simple shifting, a bail-out gear...that'll do for me. I, too, ride a single most of the time and I expect to keep my triple Saluki, and my 1x8 Friday is just swell. I live in Minneapolis and most of my riding is my 20 mile commute with only one big hill so this set-up gear-wise will be just fine for me. On the diagatube front, yes, William, they will tentaculate back to the whimsical seatstay/chainstay curls. It will be way cool. And of course, there will still be a top tube. And what are those spanning webs to attach a h2o cage? Gotta picture? On the delivery schedule: Riv is waiting for some tubes, then it will go to Mark Nobillete and he'll have a month/month and a half and then to Joe Bell and he'll also have a month/month and a half, so November would be pushing it. I want to fly out to Riv for the build and be a fly on the wall, so we'll see. On the color front: Khaki WWII green. Thinking about wood fenders. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
And what are those spanning webs to attach a h2o cage? Gotta picture? Not exactly. Here's something close: http://ladyfleur.files.wordpress.com/2012/06/mixte-bike-on-caltrain.jpg?w=640 It's easy to see where you might mount a bottle cage on the downtube, but on your bike, which will have a top tube, I was thinking you might want the bottle cage mounted to the diagatubes. But there are two of them! Bridges spanning the gap could then possess the braze on for a bottle cage. In this picture the bridges serve as cable stops, but it is a similar idea. I remember seeing them on a double-downtube Colnago, like this: http://www.trackosaurusrex.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/NagoBondedDouble.jpg On Friday, August 23, 2013 4:53:08 PM UTC-7, Liesl wrote: Hi friends, What a tutorial in gears! I'm learning quite a bit! A few comments on that topic from my perspective: I'm in the Edwin W camp. Simple shifting, a bail-out gear...that'll do for me. I, too, ride a single most of the time and I expect to keep my triple Saluki, and my 1x8 Friday is just swell. I live in Minneapolis and most of my riding is my 20 mile commute with only one big hill so this set-up gear-wise will be just fine for me. On the diagatube front, yes, William, they will tentaculate back to the whimsical seatstay/chainstay curls. It will be way cool. And of course, there will still be a top tube. And what are those spanning webs to attach a h2o cage? Gotta picture? On the delivery schedule: Riv is waiting for some tubes, then it will go to Mark Nobillete and he'll have a month/month and a half and then to Joe Bell and he'll also have a month/month and a half, so November would be pushing it. I want to fly out to Riv for the build and be a fly on the wall, so we'll see. On the color front: Khaki WWII green. Thinking about wood fenders. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
Steve writes: In the terrain I ride most, I'd stay on the big ring all the way down the block until I was forced to shift -- and I would be forced to shift every time it got steep, ... I'll be looking for a gear lower than 38 inches, something in the mid to low 30s. In which case I am surprised you are happy with that 36 tooth middle ring. With that, only your two biggest cogs (w/ 32.4 and 36) meet your criteria. Were I in your shoes, I would drop the middle ring size by 4 teeth thereby moving that 36 gear down a cog to the 24t. But of course I am not you, and the great thing is we all get to ride what we like. On Thursday, August 22, 2013 4:02:18 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 08/22/2013 06:41 PM, William wrote: 40 x 26 is plenty. Run the numbers with any normal cassette. Compact double is all most people need. You need a triple carrying or hauling lots of weight, and maybe need it for serious off road riding. But if you lay out the numbers, an intelligently selected compact double gives you everything you need and nothing you don't need. On Thursday, August 22, 2013 3:32:06 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote: Would it take a triple crank? I am just thinking that a 40t x 26t. double crank seems like it needs a middle ring. 40 53.8 % 26 11 98.2 63.8 18.2 % 13 83.1 54.0 15.4 % 15 72.0 46.8 13.3 % 17 63.5 41.3 11.8 % 19 56.8 36.9 10.5 % 21 51.4 33.4 9.5 % 23 47.0 30.5 8.7 % 25 43.2 28.1 12.0 % 28 38.6 25.1 14.3 % 32 33.8 21.9 OK, here's the 40/26 with an 11-32 10 speed cassette. The range is just fine: 22 low, 98 high. Can't be bettered. But what happens inside the range? In the terrain I ride most, I'd stay on the big ring all the way down the block until I was forced to shift -- and I would be forced to shift every time it got steep, because 39 is not enough for me on 9-10% grades. What happens then? Let's say I go from the 40 to the 28T chain ring. Now I'm in a 25 gear, and that's so low I'm going to think I dropped the chain. I'll be looking for a gear lower than 38 inches, something in the mid to low 30s. Whatcha got? Upshift 4 and you get a 37, just about the same as where I was. Upshift 3 in back and I get a 33. I can live with a 33 -- but can I live with having to upshift 3 each time I cross over? I don't think so. That 54% difference in the chain rings means you can't ever just shift the front and keep on truckin', the jump is just too much. Unlike, for example, the 10-tooth difference between my 36 and 46T chain rings. There, if I'm feeling lazy or the terrain is steepening fast, I just shift the front and go from a 52 gear to a 40.5 -- something you can live with -- or I can upshift 1 and get a 46, next in sequence. What about up at the top end? 98 is a nice top end, in fact it's what I have now. But where's that 88.7 I have? Missing. Next gear is 2 teeth down, an 83. That's a hole I'd trip on often. For reference, here's my gearing with a 9 speed 13-30 cassette: 46 3624 95.5 74.8 49.8 88.7 69.4 46.3 82.8 64.8 43.2 73.1 57.2 38.1 65.4 51.2 34.1 59.1 46.3 30.9 51.8 40.5 27.0 46.0 36.0 24.0 41.4 32.4 21.6 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
Liesl, Design away the top tube. If you get the twin transect right you have plenty of structural support. We have mixtes, love'em. Will On Friday, August 23, 2013 6:53:08 PM UTC-5, Liesl wrote: Hi friends, What a tutorial in gears! I'm learning quite a bit! A few comments on that topic from my perspective: I'm in the Edwin W camp. Simple shifting, a bail-out gear...that'll do for me. I, too, ride a single most of the time and I expect to keep my triple Saluki, and my 1x8 Friday is just swell. I live in Minneapolis and most of my riding is my 20 mile commute with only one big hill so this set-up gear-wise will be just fine for me. On the diagatube front, yes, William, they will tentaculate back to the whimsical seatstay/chainstay curls. It will be way cool. And of course, there will still be a top tube. And what are those spanning webs to attach a h2o cage? Gotta picture? On the delivery schedule: Riv is waiting for some tubes, then it will go to Mark Nobillete and he'll have a month/month and a half and then to Joe Bell and he'll also have a month/month and a half, so November would be pushing it. I want to fly out to Riv for the build and be a fly on the wall, so we'll see. On the color front: Khaki WWII green. Thinking about wood fenders. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
I love the twin mixte style diagatubes! Am I thinking correctly that they will be side-by-side from headtube back to seat tube, at which point they will splay out and tentaculate back near the dropouts, one curving up to a seatstay, the other curling down to the chainstay? Will Mark Nobi be brazing on those spanning webs to attach a h2o cage onto those twin diagatubes? Whatever they come up with it sounds sweet On Thursday, August 22, 2013 2:08:36 PM UTC-7, Liesl wrote: Here's some fun news! I talked with Mark at Riv and there seems to be a groovy design solution to having a really small frame (in the 50cm range) with a diagatube! When last you tuned in (if you tuned in at all), you might recall (or might not) that Grant said that getting a diagatube, lugs, and clearance for 55mm tires and fenders was like trying to get 4 balls into 3 and a half holes. Here's how it's likely to go: 26 wheels (already knew that) and— —*double* small diameter old school Mixte-style diagatubes that are mitered and fillet brazed somewhere about the head tube. Where it's brazed to will be Mark Nobilette's choice; could be to the top tube, could be to the head tube, could be to the bottom tube. Mark was quite excited as he described it. It would be truly totally custom. Current thinking on the build kit is as follows: 58 Boscos, Meisha's Cork (normal), Paul Thumbies + Shimano BarEnds, brake levers to be determined, Tange/IRD NeedL BlastR Roller Drive Headset Phil Rivy Hub - Rivy 32h Rear Hub, New SON 28 32H Front Hub, 26 Aeroheat Rims, Schwalbe Big Bens Sugino XD2 wide/low double Crank 40t x 26t, VP Thin Gripster pedals Brooks Champion Flyer select, Paul Tall and Handsome seatpost As always, your thoughts are welcomed! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
Would it take a triple crank? I am just thinking that a 40t x 26t. double crank seems like it needs a middle ring. 40 would be too high to stay in for long, I would think, unless you are on dead flats or downhills, or a strong rider (I couldn't do it). The small ring would be too light, I would think, unless doing lotsa steep uphills, or loaded touring. Just throwing out some thoughts. Sounds like it is gonna be a great bike whatever you choose though! Enjoy! And be sure to post pics. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
[RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
40 x 26 is plenty. Run the numbers with any normal cassette. Compact double is all most people need. You need a triple carrying or hauling lots of weight, and maybe need it for serious off road riding. But if you lay out the numbers, an intelligently selected compact double gives you everything you need and nothing you don't need. On Thursday, August 22, 2013 3:32:06 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote: Would it take a triple crank? I am just thinking that a 40t x 26t. double crank seems like it needs a middle ring. 40 would be too high to stay in for long, I would think, unless you are on dead flats or downhills, or a strong rider (I couldn't do it). The small ring would be too light, I would think, unless doing lotsa steep uphills, or loaded touring. Just throwing out some thoughts. Sounds like it is gonna be a great bike whatever you choose though! Enjoy! And be sure to post pics. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
On 08/22/2013 06:41 PM, William wrote: 40 x 26 is plenty. Run the numbers with any normal cassette. Compact double is all most people need. You need a triple carrying or hauling lots of weight, and maybe need it for serious off road riding. But if you lay out the numbers, an intelligently selected compact double gives you everything you need and nothing you don't need. On Thursday, August 22, 2013 3:32:06 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote: Would it take a triple crank? I am just thinking that a 40t x 26t. double crank seems like it needs a middle ring. 40 53.8 % 26 11 98.2 63.8 18.2 % 13 83.1 54.0 15.4 % 15 72.0 46.8 13.3 % 17 63.5 41.3 11.8 % 19 56.8 36.9 10.5 % 21 51.4 33.4 9.5 % 23 47.0 30.5 8.7 % 25 43.2 28.1 12.0 % 28 38.6 25.1 14.3 % 32 33.8 21.9 OK, here's the 40/26 with an 11-32 10 speed cassette. The range is just fine: 22 low, 98 high. Can't be bettered. But what happens inside the range? In the terrain I ride most, I'd stay on the big ring all the way down the block until I was forced to shift -- and I would be forced to shift every time it got steep, because 39 is not enough for me on 9-10% grades. What happens then? Let's say I go from the 40 to the 28T chain ring. Now I'm in a 25 gear, and that's so low I'm going to think I dropped the chain. I'll be looking for a gear lower than 38 inches, something in the mid to low 30s. Whatcha got? Upshift 4 and you get a 37, just about the same as where I was. Upshift 3 in back and I get a 33. I can live with a 33 -- but can I live with having to upshift 3 each time I cross over? I don't think so. That 54% difference in the chain rings means you can't ever just shift the front and keep on truckin', the jump is just too much. Unlike, for example, the 10-tooth difference between my 36 and 46T chain rings. There, if I'm feeling lazy or the terrain is steepening fast, I just shift the front and go from a 52 gear to a 40.5 -- something you can live with -- or I can upshift 1 and get a 46, next in sequence. What about up at the top end? 98 is a nice top end, in fact it's what I have now. But where's that 88.7 I have? Missing. Next gear is 2 teeth down, an 83. That's a hole I'd trip on often. For reference, here's my gearing with a 9 speed 13-30 cassette: 46 3624 95.574.849.8 88.769.446.3 82.864.843.2 73.157.238.1 65.451.234.1 59.146.330.9 51.840.527.0 46.036.024.0 41.432.421.6 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
Steve buddy 1. I would never categorize you in most people, so you can be totally right about your gearing choices without disproving my assertion that most people can do just fine with a compact double. :-) 2. This is another datapoint proving that you've been unfairly maligned as a Jan Heine disciple. You like cantilever brakes and triples. If you were a true Jan-zealot you'd be on centerpulls and compact doubles. Steve learns from many, but makes up his own mind, people! 3. I agree that a compact double with an ultrawide cassette has big jumps. What I meant by a normal cassette was more like an 11-26 or an 11-28 with a 44/30. If you cannot possibly live without a sub 22 gear then I agree that a triple provides better coverage. On my touring bike I happily run a 3x8 where I need really low gears. In general I agree 300% with your approach: Pick your high gear and your low gear and design it to cover the space with acceptable jumps, keeping an eye peeled for chain line. Double shifts are a lot less troublesome to me than you make it sound when my left side shifter never has to trim. Slam it against the stop for the big ring. Slam it against the stop for the small ring. On Thursday, August 22, 2013 4:02:18 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 08/22/2013 06:41 PM, William wrote: 40 x 26 is plenty. Run the numbers with any normal cassette. Compact double is all most people need. You need a triple carrying or hauling lots of weight, and maybe need it for serious off road riding. But if you lay out the numbers, an intelligently selected compact double gives you everything you need and nothing you don't need. On Thursday, August 22, 2013 3:32:06 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote: Would it take a triple crank? I am just thinking that a 40t x 26t. double crank seems like it needs a middle ring. 40 53.8 % 26 11 98.2 63.8 18.2 % 13 83.1 54.0 15.4 % 15 72.0 46.8 13.3 % 17 63.5 41.3 11.8 % 19 56.8 36.9 10.5 % 21 51.4 33.4 9.5 % 23 47.0 30.5 8.7 % 25 43.2 28.1 12.0 % 28 38.6 25.1 14.3 % 32 33.8 21.9 OK, here's the 40/26 with an 11-32 10 speed cassette. The range is just fine: 22 low, 98 high. Can't be bettered. But what happens inside the range? In the terrain I ride most, I'd stay on the big ring all the way down the block until I was forced to shift -- and I would be forced to shift every time it got steep, because 39 is not enough for me on 9-10% grades. What happens then? Let's say I go from the 40 to the 28T chain ring. Now I'm in a 25 gear, and that's so low I'm going to think I dropped the chain. I'll be looking for a gear lower than 38 inches, something in the mid to low 30s. Whatcha got? Upshift 4 and you get a 37, just about the same as where I was. Upshift 3 in back and I get a 33. I can live with a 33 -- but can I live with having to upshift 3 each time I cross over? I don't think so. That 54% difference in the chain rings means you can't ever just shift the front and keep on truckin', the jump is just too much. Unlike, for example, the 10-tooth difference between my 36 and 46T chain rings. There, if I'm feeling lazy or the terrain is steepening fast, I just shift the front and go from a 52 gear to a 40.5 -- something you can live with -- or I can upshift 1 and get a 46, next in sequence. What about up at the top end? 98 is a nice top end, in fact it's what I have now. But where's that 88.7 I have? Missing. Next gear is 2 teeth down, an 83. That's a hole I'd trip on often. For reference, here's my gearing with a 9 speed 13-30 cassette: 46 3624 95.5 74.8 49.8 88.7 69.4 46.3 82.8 64.8 43.2 73.1 57.2 38.1 65.4 51.2 34.1 59.1 46.3 30.9 51.8 40.5 27.0 46.0 36.0 24.0 41.4 32.4 21.6 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
On 08/22/2013 07:25 PM, William wrote: Steve buddy 1. I would never categorize you in most people, so you can be totally right about your gearing choices without disproving my assertion that most people can do just fine with a compact double. :-) I make no comment about most people. I've not done any sort of quantitative comparison and have no data. Every one has their individual gearing needs, and it pays to figure out what you need given your body, your fitness and the terrain in which you ride. 2. This is another datapoint proving that you've been unfairly maligned as a Jan Heine disciple. You like cantilever brakes and triples. If you were a true Jan-zealot you'd be on centerpulls and compact doubles. Steve learns from many, but makes up his own mind, people! I like centerpulls, too. One of my bikes has Mafac Raids, another has brazed on Paul Racers. I also like dual pivot sidepulls, in the right situation. 3. I agree that a compact double with an ultrawide cassette has big jumps. What I meant by a normal cassette was more like an 11-26 or an 11-28 with a 44/30. If you cannot possibly live without a sub 22 gear then I agree that a triple provides better coverage. On my touring bike I happily run a 3x8 where I need really low gears. Regardless of the cassette in question, the big jump is due to the 53.8% difference between the chain rings. That insures that regardless of the cassette, when you do a front shift you will have a big, big difference between gears compared to a more typical 10 or 12 tooth shift.You also have to decide how large spacing between gears is good for you, and where in the range you like it close, vs where you like it wider (Patrick has written extensively on his preferences here, as has Jan; I couldn't live with either Patrick's or Jan's.) In general I agree 300% with your approach: Pick your high gear and your low gear and design it to cover the space with acceptable jumps, keeping an eye peeled for chain line. Double shifts are a lot less troublesome to me than you make it sound when my left side shifter never has to trim. Slam it against the stop for the big ring. Slam it against the stop for the small ring. Trimming isn't a problem for me (as a bar end shifter user). If/when I do it, I hardly even pay it any conscious attention. What you have to go through to do a double shift and stay reasonably in sequence is important to me. I would go mad if every time I needed a gear below 40 inches I'd have to cross over and upshift 3 or 4 at the same time, and I'd go mad if every time I shifted to the small ring it felt like I'd dropped the chain, or if every time I shifted from the small to the large chain ring it dropped my RPMs by half and doubled the pedal effort. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
I have the 40/26 on my Sam with an 11-32? 8 speed in the back. In the 1000 miles I've ridden I have stick shifted into the granny only once, so I haven't put on a front derailer yet. If you are going to be using the 26 more than occasionally, the detailed analysis from Steve seems important. Edwin, living 1 by 8 almost all the time. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
Re: [RBW] Re: Custom Appaloosa Update
Regardless of the cassette in question, the big jump is due to the 53.8% difference between the chain rings. My jump is 47% between chainrings. That's much bigger than the 27% jump from your 36 to your 46, but it is smaller than the 50% jump from your 24 to your 36. I don't know if I should go mad or not! On Thursday, August 22, 2013 7:07:26 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote: On 08/22/2013 07:25 PM, William wrote: Steve buddy 1. I would never categorize you in most people, so you can be totally right about your gearing choices without disproving my assertion that most people can do just fine with a compact double. :-) I make no comment about most people. I've not done any sort of quantitative comparison and have no data. Every one has their individual gearing needs, and it pays to figure out what you need given your body, your fitness and the terrain in which you ride. 2. This is another datapoint proving that you've been unfairly maligned as a Jan Heine disciple. You like cantilever brakes and triples. If you were a true Jan-zealot you'd be on centerpulls and compact doubles. Steve learns from many, but makes up his own mind, people! I like centerpulls, too. One of my bikes has Mafac Raids, another has brazed on Paul Racers. I also like dual pivot sidepulls, in the right situation. 3. I agree that a compact double with an ultrawide cassette has big jumps. What I meant by a normal cassette was more like an 11-26 or an 11-28 with a 44/30. If you cannot possibly live without a sub 22 gear then I agree that a triple provides better coverage. On my touring bike I happily run a 3x8 where I need really low gears. Regardless of the cassette in question, the big jump is due to the 53.8% difference between the chain rings. That insures that regardless of the cassette, when you do a front shift you will have a big, big difference between gears compared to a more typical 10 or 12 tooth shift.You also have to decide how large spacing between gears is good for you, and where in the range you like it close, vs where you like it wider (Patrick has written extensively on his preferences here, as has Jan; I couldn't live with either Patrick's or Jan's.) In general I agree 300% with your approach: Pick your high gear and your low gear and design it to cover the space with acceptable jumps, keeping an eye peeled for chain line. Double shifts are a lot less troublesome to me than you make it sound when my left side shifter never has to trim. Slam it against the stop for the big ring. Slam it against the stop for the small ring. Trimming isn't a problem for me (as a bar end shifter user). If/when I do it, I hardly even pay it any conscious attention. What you have to go through to do a double shift and stay reasonably in sequence is important to me. I would go mad if every time I needed a gear below 40 inches I'd have to cross over and upshift 3 or 4 at the same time, and I'd go mad if every time I shifted to the small ring it felt like I'd dropped the chain, or if every time I shifted from the small to the large chain ring it dropped my RPMs by half and doubled the pedal effort. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
