Re: OT: Again RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Dayton Hamvention and other Amateur Flea Markets/Events
Paul: Perhaps it is logical to conclude that the escalating flea market costs are to discourage big vendors coming in and taking all the spaces from small vendors and so encourage more small vendors. Of course, a small vendor is a relative thing at Dayton. Still, I know people who buy flea market spaces just to have a place to park in the flea market. They may set some things out, but they are not really worth buying. I have attended each Dayton Hamvention since 1975. It has changed substantially. Not only the decline in land mobile, but e-bay, has affected it. So many times I would go to Dayton and find something that I didn't know I wanted until I saw it. Lately, I go looking for something and never find it. Meanwhile E-bay delivers an e-mail the first time what ever I am looking for turns up. The last couple of years I have seen so much stuff at Dayton that probably is there for the simple reason there is no market to sell it on e-bay. On the other hand, the unusual will still show up. A couple of years ago, somebody had some IC-900 modules for 1200 Mhz. I managed to get one to round out my remote base stack. Many years ago, I bought a Securenet Micor and had a friend bring it back. It was unusual at the time, more common today. Once I paid about $75.00 each for Repco 900 Mhz links. Two years ago at Dallas Hamcom, I bought 4 of them for $20.00. Things change. For me, going to Dayton is like skiing. Nobody goes skiing to save money. Consider the plane fare, motel rooms, and other expenses, I don't save any money at Dayton anymore so I go if I can to visit with all the friends I have made over the years. Micheal Salem N5MS Paul Finch wrote: Skipp, How would inflating the prices be a good thing? This Hamfest is much higher that any other I have ever been to! Granted, it is the largest but does that make it right for the to double the charge for one more fleamarket space? $70.00 for one space is really high enough, I don't understand the $90.00 for the 3rd and 4th spaces and even higher for more! Amateur Radio operators are not rolling in dough, at least most of us. I don't understand the tiered pricing that they have. Most people give a discount for multiple of anything they sell, not the Hamvention crew. Paul Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Cheap Tunnel Heatsink
I built an electronic load several years ago using two big heat sinks to which I fixed some 2N3055 type transistors that I bought at BG Micro. I fitted the two heatsinks into a tunnel just like this heat sink and put a 12 v. muffin fan at one end. The load can be set for just about any current between 0 and 40 amps. I also put a milliamp meter across the .1 ohm emitter resistor of one of the transistors (I put .1 ohm resistors in each emitter lead of the transistors before paralleling them) to monitor the current. I used another miliamp meter with a series resistor to measure the voltage. I drive the six transistors with a single power transistor which drives the parallel bases of the power transistors. I also fitted a shroud over the heat sink to help channel the air through from the fan. I built this from an article in 73 Magazine with some variations. This was not complicated, but if you want some pictures, the schematic and a description, I can probably put this together. I mounted it on a piece of wood. I custom made the meter faces so that they were calibrated. It can disipate 35 -40 amps for a good long period so that I can test Astron, Micor, and other power supplies. I didn't spend a great deal of time on it since it was an occasional test tool. Micheal Salem N5MS Jeff DePolo WN3A wrote: I picked up an electronic load on Ebay a number of years ago, and have gotten more use out of it than I ever thought I would. Here's a well-done article on building an electronic load. The general design could be easily expanded to handle higher current by using a beefier transistor and/or multiple devices. http://www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/A_30506/article.html --- Jeff -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Tony King, W4ZT Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 9:06 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Cheap Tunnel Heatsink Here is my version of a 12 Volt dummy load: http://astron.w4zt.com/dload.html And, for those of you that are like me and would like to load test HIGH VOLTAGE supplies, here's my high voltage dummy load: http://gs35b.com/hvload/index.html Careful... either of them can burn you... BAD. The high voltage dummy load can KILL you if you get into it. 73, Tony W4ZT Mike Morris wrote: Years ago I saw a homebrew version of that: Twenty tungsten auto headlights in a metal box, with a switch for each bulb, and a couple of heater blowers. Bulbs were 50 cents at the auto junkyard, as were the headlight switches. They were wired so that the parking light position (half-way out) lit up the low beam, and the headlight position (all the way out) lit up the high beam as well. A regular wall thermostat was used along with a relay to run the heater blowers (off of the 12v input). Cheap to build and worked just fine Mike WA6ILQ At 10:46 PM 2/11/06, you wrote: Brett, I have a copy of a commercial Load Bank which is nothing more than a bunch of large resistors in a case controlled by switches. I'll dig it out and scan it for you These people get $3,000.00 for this package ! I have the stuff to build one and have about $75.00 invested so far. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Brett mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 9:28 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Cheap Tunnel Heatsink Hi guys does anyone have that circuit diagram I need to build one to test 12 to 60 volt supply. Thanks in advance. Brett - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 10:01 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Cheap Tunnel Heatsink In a message dated 2/11/2006 3:10:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: http://www.ve3tjd.com/pictures/tech%20stuff/ What a perfect heatsink for that variable power supply load that was bouncing around on R-B about a year or two ago. You could vary the Amp Load on your power supply using a variable pot control. Gary K2UQ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] FS-Motorola DES Key Loader
Mark: Thank you for your e-mail. I am answering your e-mail on the reflector because you have asked a question to which I do not know the answer and perhaps somebody else might be able to respond. I have little experience with some of the radios that you mention. As for the Key Loader, the manual mentions that you can get cables for these radios: MX, Micor, Syntor, and Expo and wiring diagrams for these are shown in the schematic section. I have only played with it on my several PX-300-S DES equipped radios and it worked. As for the flash port technology storage, as I read the manual, in the MX, for example, the key is placed in volatile storage so that if someone tries to open the radio, the key will be gone shortly after the battery is disconnected. Flash port storage might allow someone to open the radio and compromise the key? Micheal Salem N5MS Mark A. Holman wrote: Have any Manuals for MCS 2000 Type I I I ? like software loading and service manual to trade I have a M manual for Astro Tac Quintar and DSS . and does that DES Keyloader work with MCS 2000 Type I I I radios ? Its flash port technology just curious. mark h. Micheal Salem wrote: I have a Motorola DES Key Loader T3020AX which is surplus to my needs. This is the one built into the MX style radio case and has the HEX code pad. A very small portion of the upper right side of the keypad has become exposed, but still works well. I do not have any cables. It has a battery, but it is weak and doesn't hold a charge very long. I have scanned pictures of the front and back if you are interested. Please write me directly and not through the server. I would like $125.00 plus $7.00 to cover postage. I do have a Paypal Account. Buy it and I will throw in a copy of the Motorola Service Manual for this Key Loader. I do have some pictures of the keypad and the back which I can send by e-mail. Please respond directly and not through the list. Micheal Salem N5MS Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ -- MZ YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] FS-Motorola DES Key Loader
I have a Motorola DES Key Loader T3020AX which is surplus to my needs. This is the one built into the MX style radio case and has the HEX code pad. A very small portion of the upper right side of the keypad has become exposed, but still works well. I do not have any cables. It has a battery, but it is weak and doesn't hold a charge very long. I have scanned pictures of the front and back if you are interested. Please write me directly and not through the server. I would like $125.00 plus $7.00 to cover postage. I do have a Paypal Account. Buy it and I will throw in a copy of the Motorola Service Manual for this Key Loader. I do have some pictures of the keypad and the back which I can send by e-mail. Please respond directly and not through the list. Micheal Salem N5MS Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Additional suggestion on Tower Installation
The comments about vibration from wind noise are well taken. I think it better to separately guy the antenna rather than support it with the house. But if you have limited space, sometimes you have limited or no choice. However, I am not sure that I would drill a hole in the tower above the ground to drain water. Although round holes can alleviate stress when there is a crack (you drill a hole at the end of a crack and hope that the extra surface area spreads the stress and stops the crack from propagating), a hole at the bottom of a tower may be a source for a crack to propagate from, particularly if the tower moves a little in the wind. The solution I used to drain water in the tower legs was to dig a hole an extra foot deep, fill that extra foot or so with rock, mount the tower through the rock at least six to 8 inches, then fill the top part of the hole with concrete. You can do the same with sand instead of rock. This allows water to drain through the concrete pad into the rock (or sand) and out of the tower. I don't think this technique is any secret. Seems like I read it either in an amateur radio magazine or it may have been in my Rohn catalog. Painting the bottom of the tower before it goes into the concrete probably is a good idea. I wish I had done that with the Rustoleum I used to paint the guy wire poles. Micheal Salem N5MS [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Be aware that when a tower is connected to a house for support it willcause noise created by wind, vibration, creaking, moaning, grinding, etc. to be transmitted throughout the house. This can keep the wife and maybe you upset while trying to sleep to the point that you wish you didn't install it that way. Depending on tower section installation, those who live in areas where it can freeze, you may consider drilling a 1/8 inch hole aprox 1/2 inch above earth level. You will get condensation build up over time. Maybe not in AZ but elsewhere other installers may consider it. If it cracks due to frost freeze you will have a major problem. Lastly, don't do as a newbie tower installer I know did. He installed the tower upside down. Yes, when it rained the water flowed down the tower legs and right into the lower sections. If you bury bottom section in dirt, even galvanized metal will over time rust right at grass level. Oxygen along with acids in the soil will act on galvanizing atgrass level.That's why towers should have a coating of heavy tar or rubberized paint to protect the legs. Don't forget the ground rod. Gary Katona K2UQ age 67 YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Old duplexer tuning question
Tony: If you are dealing with a bandpass-band reject duplexer, it is usually true that notches will move with the pass cavity. The pass cavity will tune very broad and the notches tune very sharp. Trying to line up all the notches is difficult. Tuning the pass is easier. One technique I use is to try to line up all the passes after summing them (individually tuning them to pass before summing if you can), then individually tune the notches, then redo the pass cavities, then back to the notches. When I am sure that they are close as they can be, interactively, I then adjust the pass cavity to adjust the notch to maximum depth. The bandpass is generally broad enough that the slight movement to fine tune the notch doesn't change anything else very much. I tuned up a Phelps Dodge 6 cavity bp-br VHF 600 Khz split duplexer many years ago and still use it successfully on my repeater. I have tuned up a variety of other duplexers also. I hope this is helpful. Micheal Salem N5MS skipp025 wrote: "tony dinkel" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have been pulling my hair out (I don't have that much more to go) over an old Celwave 6 cavity 526-4 pass reject duplexer. I can get the notches to tune properly one by one but when I put it all back together it just does not seem to sum out right. Is there a procedure someone can point me to? The single vs series adjustments will be different. It would be a pain in the fanny to make the adjustment without a spectrum analyzer with a tracking generator. I tune each cavity, then sum the cavities and readjust the notches, which move quite a bit from the original single cavity position. Once you get the notches in line... firmly secure the notch position adjustment screws and threaten people with early demise should they touch them again. cheers, skipp Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Motorola R-2200B Service Monitor Inquiry
I recently acquired a Motorola R-2200B Service Monitor with a spectrum analyzer. It seems to be in good working order, except that the scope tube is starting to get dim. I do have a manual for it. I know there has been some discussion on one of the lists about replacement scope tubes for Motorola monitors. I have spent some time going through my archives and can't seem to find that discussion. I apologize for asking again and for the cross-posting. According to the manual the scope tube is a D7-201GH or a D7-231GN. The Motorola part number is 96-80377A04. The scope module is a RTC1004B. I haven't identified the exact tube in my scope. The electrostatic deflection coil is L1 and mounts on the neck of the tube. It is a 24-80377A06. This is for trace rotation adjustment. A friend of mine who has rebuilt three of these indicated that he thought the tube was $600.00 from Motorola. He also indicated that the electrostatic deflection coil is glued to the tube and Motorola wants a lot more money for the tube and deflection coil assembly, but he was able to remove it and fit it to the new tube. By the way, his memory was that the scope tube may have had the Tektronix name on it. The scope uses 6.3 volts on the filaments and runs 1200 volts. It also uses a 140 volt supply. Does anybody know of any source to find a tube? I want to see if it is reasonable to either replace it, or get used to dim lights in the shop. Since Motorola turned their service monitor business over to General Dynamics, I would imagine that I would not want to buy one from them. If it is too much, I guess I will get use to the display. Thanks in advance. Micheal Salem N5MS YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] DB 201/ 210
Hi Doug: Are you thinking about the DB410 and DB420 which are UHF antennas? 8 pair of folded dipoles is 16 elements. I have a couple of DB410's. I checked a DB Catalog from about 1994 and the DB antennas go: DB201 (Unity gain antenna -low band, high band, 220, and UHF) DB205 (Unity gain coaxial antenna- Lowband and Highband) DB 212 (Side mount Lowband) DB 222 (2 folded diples for high band and 220) DB 224 (4 folded dipoles for highband). No 210's or 220's that I see. I have a couple of older catalogs at home and can check those. Just checking. Micheal Salem N5MS Douglas Barker wrote: The DB210 preceeded the DB220. 8 pair of folded dipoles on a 20'+/- mast. Slightly better construction than the DB220 but mfg. in the same freq. bands as the DB220. Doug N3DAB Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] WEATHER RELATED STATIC
>From tornado alley in Norman, Oklahoma: I remember reading many years ago about a technique of placing your television on an unused channel and darkening the television with the brightness. A nearby tornado would be indicated if the screen brightened. I probably should Google this before saying more. Obviously this does not work on cable. Micheal Salem N5MS mch wrote: Are you sure it's not just causing some odd propagation and they are seeing a distant station? Joe M. Joe wrote: I've heard stories of people in the tornado areas watching an unused TV channel in their area. Tornados supposedly generate noise in the lower channels that you can see and identify as a tornado on TV. Joe Dave VanHorn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hasn't tornado winds been documented to generate broadband RF noise primarily in the VHF region? Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Morse Code Contest on JAY LENO
I am not sure about this and I am at the office and do not have the
formula for wpm (but I think it is continuous dots anyway), but the
text messager (Ben Cook) said that he could send 160 characters
in 57 seconds ("very quick"). That would be over 30 wpm at 5
characters per word. (Roughly 160/5 x 60/57 = 33.68 wpm)
The phrase that was sent was about 39 characters (I didn't count a
period
at the end, but I thought I heard one). That would be about 8 words
(eight
words if you count the period). But, according to the time line of
the
video it took 20 seconds (actually less because they had to turn over
the
card and look before starting to send. That took maybe 3 seconds, so
the
time was maybe 17 seconds?
That makes their speed about 28.24 wpm (60/17 x 8). Of course,
this is a case where split seconds could make words of difference
since my only resolution was 1 second on the clock.
But it seemed a lot faster to me. I would expect that they would not
have done less than 35 wpm to be sure they had a margin of victory.
It was a great performance though.
Micheal Salem N5MS
JOHN MACKEY wrote:
it seemed a lot faster than 30 WPM, more like 40 or 45 wpm. I can usually
copy bits pieces from about 15 wpm up to 30 wpm.
-- Original Message --
Received: Sat, 14 May 2005 04:16:21 PM CDT
From: Mike Morris [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Morse Code Contest on JAY LENO
It was about 30wpm and the text was "I just saved a bunch of
money on my car insurance".
I have the whole show on VHS... caught the last few of minutes
of the local news program, teh station break, and the whole
show (just hit record on a 2-hour tape and let it run out).
Mike WA6ILQ
At 01:29 PM 5/14/05, you wrote:
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Di-Electric Grease
I may have missed part of this discussion, but if the grease is put in the connector or under black tape, how is it exposed to UV sunlight so that it will destabilize? My understanding about silicon grease is that it can change the dielectric constant of the connector. I have used silicon grease in the connector and the antenna would not tune until it was cleaned out. I also understand that over time that silicon grease will "creep", that is, it will move between the metal to metal connection of the connector and form a thin insulating layer. Micheal Salem N5MS Norman, Oklahoma Jim B. wrote: The proper thing to use is the PTFE Teflon lube that comes with the antenna. At least it's supposed to come with new antennas... It looks like silicon, but it's not. Silicon grease has been found not to be completely UV stable. Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Looking for Microwave Associates 7R011T Isolator Tuning Procedure
Steve: You are welcome. Maybe Kevin or Mike will post it to the website. Let me make a couple of points that I hope will help. I learned these many years ago when I had a 7R011 given to me. Someone had tried to put a PL-259 into the N connector and sheared off the interior pin. I took the 7R011 apart and was able to fit a new female chassis N connector on the isolator. I could never get it anywhere near the specs. So, I called Microwave Associates and spoke to someone in their repair department. I described what had happened and what I had done. He told me that this was very tricky to do and that they used nonmagnetic copper vises to position the isolator just right when assemblying or repairing it. For not much money at the time (maybe $50.00 to $70.00, I don't remember), they repaired the connector and it came back like new. I also got some information from the repair man about the isolator and how to treat it. He told me to be sure and use brass or other nonmagnetic materials when mounting it and to not to take it off the panel. It mounts on the panel on standoffs. So brass screws and aluminum standoffs were what I used. All I got was the isolator (that was all that was broken). But a friend of mine had an aluminum panel that he had for one. I eventually acquired a couple of the low pass filter around and at Dayton one year and had a couple of the 100 watt Microwave Associates dummy loads that it took and a smaller 25 watt load. It tuned up and seemed to work well. I ran it on a UHF repeater with no problems. One of the problems in tuning was getting enough sensitivity to read the reverse hookup (RF into the antenna port and measure power coming out of the transmitter port). I had a 1 watt UHF slug, so that I could read .1 watt and that could be about 30 db from 10 watts. However, it occurs to me that you could use that W7ZOI wattmeter that uses the Analog Devices RF power measurement chip (I think AD8037)) which would let you use lower power and go down -50 to 80 db. Might want to put a 20 db attenuator in line in case you get it out of tune and a lot of power comes down and blows up your Wattmeter. Of course, I think that Microwave Associates was expecting everybody to have an HP 435B with an appropriate RF head is what they are looking at, but the Gilbert Cell AD8037 seems to me to be a good replacement. I recently got another 7R011 and will have to dig out an aluminum panel to put it on and get some dummy loads. I hope this is helpful. Micheal Salem N5MS Norman, Oklahoma Steve Rodgers wrote: Michael, Thanks, This is exactly what I was looking for. Steve WA6ZFT On Thursday 05 May 2005 21:58, Micheal Salem wrote: Steve: As a matter of fact, I do have tuneup instructions that I got from Microwave Associates. They are attached. I have successfully tuned a 7R011 using these. I did not have a power meters, but could use a smaller element in a Bird wattmeter and got pretty good isolation. Micheal Salem N5MS Steve Rodgers wrote: Does anyone have a tuning procedure they could share for the Microwave Associates 7R011T dual-stage UHF Isolator? I have 2 of these tuned on 454 and 462MHz. I've never attempted to tune isolators so any tips would be useful. Can these be tuned with a tracking generator/spectrum analyzer? Steve WA6ZFT Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Looking for Microwave Associates 7R011T Isolator Tuning Procedure
Bob Dengler wrote: "Initial tuning of this unit must be done at power levels of 10 watts or less. Severe damage can result to untuned units by the application of power in excess of this limit." I can see a TX being damaged by excessive reflected power from an untuned isolator's input, but damage to the isolator? Bob: I think that they may be concerned about off resonance circulating currents or voltages during tuneup which could demagnetize (or change the permanent fields of the internal magnets and damage the isolator. I would have to look it up, but I think that this isolator takes up to at least 100 watts. That would be when it is in resonance. I have run 65 watts through it with not much trouble. Micheal Salem Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Looking for Microwave Associates 7R011T Isolator Tuning Procedure
Skip: I did look it up when I got home in my ancient M/A-COM catalog (From 1982, no less. It is hard to throw this stuff away). For those who are interested, the 7R011 is specified at 125 watts. The insertion loss is .9 db typical with 1.3 db max. The isolation can be as high as 60 db with 50 db typical. That may require breaking out the HP435B and an RF head to tune it. But I could get a good null right down to zero indication at 10 watts in and a 1 watt Bird element on the output and expected that I had at least 40 db or more of isolation. It is described as a metro style isolator. The 44004 load that comes with the typical IM panel that includes the 7R011 is rated at 100 watts and I would agree with Skipp that it would not be a good idea to dump more than 100 watts through the device. With 125 watts in and an insertion loss of .9 db. there probably isn't more than 100 watts in the dummy load, but you could be dissipating a lot of power in heat in the isolator in an open antenna condition. Micheal Salem N5MS Norman, Oklahoma skipp025 wrote: I would have to look it up, but I think that this isolator takes up to at least 100 watts. That would be when it is in resonance. I have run 65 watts through it with not much trouble. Micheal Salem The port loads are under sized if you want real protection. The units operate just fine at 100 watts fwd power... at least that's what Motorola had been blowing through them for some decades. As long as the antenna system works as it should, the loads are probably ok for lower power levels. But I wouldn't trust the supplied port loads as a failsafe. skipp Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Falcon Communications MOSFET Power Amp
Eric: I remember Falcon Ads for these amps I think in both QST and 73 Magazine. There might have even been an article on them in 73 Magazine. There was a announcement of one of their amplifiers in the July issue of 1984 issue of ham radio. There was also an ad on page 24 of that same issue. I don't remember much about them, but I remember having a favorable impression about them. Not that helpful, but I can send you copies of the pages that I mentioned. Regards, Micheal Salem N5MS Eric Lemmon wrote: I have a 220 MHz rackmount power amp on the bench. The label states it was made by Falcon Communications of Newport Beach CA, and it is a MOSFET RF Power Amp, Model 4112A(?). The model number is smudged, so I can't be certain of it. The main PC board has two F1260 silicon VDMOS transistors working in parallel. These transistors are rated at 60 watts each, but I'm getting only 22 watts out with 5 watts input. There is a second PC board that controls the fan, but otherwise this is a single stage PA. I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who has knowledge of and/or tech data on this amplifier. Thanks! 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] DB 4001 cavity
I have a DB catalog which shows the following: .5 db loss 350 watts 1.0 db loss250 watts 2.0 db loss150 watts. I presume this is at the Allen-Telecom website. However, I have several older DB catalogs. I hope this is helpful. Micheal Salem N5MS [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What it the power rating of the DB-4001 cavity. Where can I find it? Thank you. Rod Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Looking for Manual - HP 8558B
I just acquired an HP 8558B Spectrum Analyzer. It works, but needs some cleaning and adjustments. This device covers from 100kHz to 1.5GHz frequency range, 1kHz min. resolution bandwidth, -117dBm to +30dBm amplitude range and came with the 182T Large Screen Display Frame. Does anybody have a full operations and service manual for the 8558B Analyzer or 182T Scope they would like to sell for a reasonable price before I spend $60.00 or so on e-bay to buy a manual? Shipping would be to 73069. Regards, Micheal Salem N5MS Norman, Oklahoma Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Question for the list...
Mike: It may be more expensive or trouble than you are looking for, but Paperport Pro 9.0 will allow you to scan directly to PDF. You can scan individual pages and Paperport allows you to drop them onto each other to stack them into a multipage document. I use Paperport 9.0 and it is an extremely useful program. After you have scanned, you can edit the document in the pageviewer mode by erasing or drawing lines or adding annotations. With grayscale or color, there is a tool that allows you to lighten or darken the page. It works fairly well. Some color scans of magazine articles will show the rumples and folds in the paper and this is a way to take them out. I have a Fujitsu FI-4120-C which is a duplex scanner that will do 25 pages per minute at 200 dpi. I can scan multiple pages into Paperport, then stack them or separate them as necessary. You can also convert to other formats, or you can import other formats to it. It also has a native format .MAX files which was proprietary to Scansoft. I can simply print these to PDF in Paperport 9.0. It has both color and monochrome drivers. I hope this is helpful. Micheal Salem N5MS Mike WA6ILQ wrote: I've run into a situation, and thought I'd tap the assembled knowledge of the group... Is there a software package available that will let someone drag-and-drop JPG or GIF image files and produce a single PDF file? The current situation is 27 individual page scans from a Motorola manual that needs to go into one PDF file - but there will be more in the future. Mike WA6ILQ Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] GE VHF Cavity identification
Dave: I have a couple of these. They are DB4002. However, the one you have sounds like it is for the aircraft band, but it doesn't look any different than mine. According to the Allen Telecom Catalog 24 they are located on page 123. They are listed in two band passes for VHF: DB4002-A 118-148 Mhz DB4002-B 148-174 Mhz It is generally a pass cavity. There should be connectors on either ends. I can remove the loops from mine by unscrewing the SO-239 connectors to the cavity. The size of the loops determines the loss and selectivity. They have loops for .5, 1.0, and 3.0 db. The selectivity at 10 db down for .5 db is 600 Khz (300 Khz either side of center). 1.0 db loss, 375 Khz, and 3.0 db, 150 khz. I used to have drawing that DB faxed to me for the loops. May still have them. You can also use them on 400 Mhz. These are DB4002-C 406 - 420 Mhz DB4002-D 450 - 512 Mhz I used one of the ones I have as a bandpass filter in front of a UHF Gaasfet preamp (Out of the duplexer, into the cavity, then into the preamp, then into the receiver). It worked very well. The chart shows that at 1.0 db, 1 meg away, it is 25 db down. 2 megs away it is 32 db down. I would say put them on a signal generator and into a receiver and see if they will tune. I hope this is helpful. Micheal Salem N5MS Dave wrote: I have a few of these barrels but I cannot find any model or part number on them. The only info I have is a tag ties to the top that says 106 - 136Mhz. I'm wondering if these are notch or pass/reject or whatever cavities. Here is a 44kb picture of what I have. http://www.kmcnet.net/Pictures/can.jpg Since I have a few of these, I'm thinking I might be able to make a duplexer with them any thoughts? Thanks Dave / N9NLU Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] GE VHF Cavity identification
Regarding power rating of these cavities, I don't think the DB4002 is rated at 3 Kw continuously. According to the Allen Telecomm Book, they are rated as follows: at .5 db loss400 watts at 1.0 db loss350 watts at 3.0 db loss200 watts Maximum power input (continuous) with insertion loss per cavity. Regarding the question about using them for a duplexer, Because they are bandpass cavities, I don't think you could get enough isolation and separation with these to build a 600 khz spaced duplexer that would be very functional. Looking at the chart, it looks like only about 20 db down about 500 khz away at 1.0 db loss. You would need three of these just to get 60 db of isolation. That would be 120 db from transmitter to the receiver. You would have 3 db of loss plus cable loss and connectors. You can see why the bandpass, bandreject VHF duplexers have much better characteristics. On UHF, it would be a slightly different story. The chart doesn't go out to 5.0 mhz, but extrapolating the 1.0 db loss loop, it looks like 30 down at 5 megs out. Two cavities would give 60 db or so and 2.0 db. I hope this is helpful. Micheal Salem N5MS NØATH wrote: Hello Dave - I had a couple of these, if you remove the top insulator they will tune right on up to 148 and above to where I do not know but I think they are pass only. Correct me if I'm wrong. I couldn't give them away so after disassembly I got more from the local scrap yard for the copper than any one had offered for the cans. They are rated at 3 KW continous and are solid copper. The inside tuning device is all silver plated / 3 with fingerstock Dave // NØATH - Original Message - From: Dave [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2004 12:04 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] GE VHF Cavity identification I have a few of these barrels but I cannot find any model or part number on them. The only info I have is a tag ties to the top that says 106 - 136Mhz. I'm wondering if these are notch or pass/reject or whatever cavities. Here is a 44kb picture of what I have. http://www.kmcnet.net/Pictures/can.jpg Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Kinda of a strange question
Ken: About that same time a friend of mine in Norman, Oklahoma modified his UHF to VHF remote base to add a home built GLB synthesizer to his tube VHF remote. He built the logic for it and I think that he used a 567 tone decoder set. I remember this because it was after I got out of school in 1975. I think we later went together and bought a Telenetics (?) hybrid digital tone decoder and he built it onto a plug in board and substituted it for the 567's. It worked great and the remote base was a lot of fun to use. In fact, somewhere I may still have an extra set of GLB boards and the assembly instructions. He stored the frequencies in registers to program the GLB. When he had it ready, we put it up on the same building as the club repeater on the Oklahoma University Campus for which I am the trustee. The remote used Ringo Rangers, not good antennas. We put it about 100 foot horizontally down the building to avoid desense from the 146.88 repeater, but there would still be some when the remote came up. He could bring up the receiver, change frequencies, then bring up the transmitter, and switch between hi and low power. Later he designed a board using 1702 eproms to use an IC-22s in a remote base. I laid out a PC board for him and made him several copies. Another very close friend of mine, K5JB, built one of the boards and used a KIM-1 (6502) microprocessor to control a 22s and make it scan. I may have the radio because he left me a bunch of his radio equipment when he passed away. In fact, I probably still have an EBKA Familarizor Single Board Computer which was very similiar to the KIM-1 which I got from the fellow who designed it and was an acquaintance of mine at the time. I could probably go back and try to get a closer date to when this was. Micheal Salem N5MS Ken Arck wrote: Hi folks Is anyone aware of the earliest use of a synthesized remote base on an amateur repeater? One that allowed full frequency agility? My take is that it happened in 1976 (and of course, I think I know who did it g). Ken -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of state-of-the-art repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html We now offer complete Kenwood TKR repeater packages! AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Kinda of a strange question
Ken: Thank you for your e-mail. Well, I wish that I could say that I did it, but it was my friend, K5HMD, who had moved to Oklahoma from Dayton, Ohio. I recall that I helped him with the boards and the space on the building and other small things. He designed and built it. He is now living in Texas and I will send him an e-mail to ask him if he remembers when he did this. Speaking of card cages, about this time I collected some designs and laid out a four board TT decoder which used an AGC and bandsplitter prefilter, eight 567's, eight NE555's wired as missing pulse detectors, and the logic for 1 of 16 output. It worked fairly well, but the 567's had to be touched up from winter to summer and vice versa. I also laid out the K2OAW ider and three other cards that had a simple squelch tail and time out time (from 73 Magazine), a power supply, controller, and timer for the ider that we designed, and a latch board that had two D flip-flops for controlling the repeater. I originally used 6 x 3 cards for this, although I later laid other cards using 22 pin edge connectors on plug-in boards that were 4 1/2 x 6 1/2 in size. This included a Mostek 5103 TT decoder with an AMI S3525 digital prefilter. I also laid out a Micor squelch card which could take discriminator audio and had all the adjustments and logic for a repeater and included an LM386. Some friends of mine revised the circuit board and this card is still being used today on the repeater. I will let you know if I get any more info. Micheal Salem N5MS Ken Arck wrote: Very cool, Michael. If it's not too much of a hassle, it would be nice to know who was first :-) Ken At 09:36 PM 9/19/2004 -0500, you wrote: Ken: About that same time a friend of mine in Norman, Oklahoma modified his UHF to VHF remote base to add a home built GLB synthesizer to his tube VHF remote. He built the logic for it and I think that he used a 567 tone decoder set. I remember this because it was after I got out of school in 1975. I think we later went together and bought a Telenetics (?) hybrid digital tone decoder and he built it onto a plug in board and substituted it for the 567's. It worked great and the remote base was a lot of fun to use. In fact, somewhere I may still have an extra set of GLB boards and the assembly instructions. He stored the frequencies in registers to program the GLB. When he had it ready, we put it up on the same building as the club repeater on the Oklahoma University Campus for which I am the trustee. The remote used Ringo Rangers, not good antennas. We put it about 100 foot horizontally down the building to avoid desense from the 146.88 repeater, but there would still be some when the remote came up. He could bring up the receiver, change frequencies, then bring up the transmitter, and switch between hi and low power. Later he designed a board using 1702 eproms to use an IC-22s in a remote base. I laid out a PC board for him and made him several copies. Another very close friend of mine, K5JB, built one of the boards and used a KIM-1 (6502) microprocessor to control a 22s and make it scan. I may have the radio because he left me a bunch of his radio equipment when he passed away. In fact, I probably still have an EBKA Familarizor Single Board Computer which was very similiar to the KIM-1 which I got from the fellow who designed it and was an acquaintance of mine at the time. I could probably go back and try to get a closer date to when this was. Micheal Salem N5MS Ken Arck wrote: Hi folks Is anyone aware of the earliest use of a synthesized remote base on an amateur repeater? One that allowed full frequency agility? My take is that it happened in 1976 (and of course, I think I know who did it g). Ken -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of state-of-the-art repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html We now offer complete Kenwood TKR repeater packages! AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net Yahoo! Groups Links -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of state-of-the-art repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html We now offer complete Kenwood TKR repeater packages! AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Two Way Shop for Sale
Dave: Thank you for your e-mail and one of your tubes is going great guns in the repeater right now. Unfortunately, there is a wireless internet site and a Nextel system that went on the top of the building and the noise is eating up the system. I need to get a bunch of clamp on ferrite cores and get permission to start slapping them on around the site. Dean was a very good friend. When I talk about saturday afternoon, I spent virtually every saturday afternoon with him at his shop for about 25 years. We only missed when he or I was out of town and he was a bit of a homebody. We would meet with some other friends right before noon and go eat lunch together, then back to the shop. After I got married about 12 year ago, fortunately, my wife understood where I was although she expected me back from the shop about 6:30 to 7:00 p.m. He was a good and great friend and I will miss him. Micheal Salem N5MS NØATH wrote: Michael - let me extend my sympathy to you in the loss of your friend. I remember you said there was a good friend with a sickness involved when we made the transaction with the tubes. Sorry to hear Dave / NØATH - Original Message - From: Micheal Salem [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 16, 2004 6:41 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Two Way Shop for Sale Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] looking for two or three d8085ac-2 8 bit 40 pin prossors 3 mhz?
Randy: 8085's are available from the surplus shops, including some of the sources that have been mentioned and B. G. Micro (I think). I have collected a couple of extra's also for various projects. If you can't find any, I will look and see if I still have the one I bought. It does sound like from your description that the CPU has a power problem. However, it could also be the 12 volt to 5 volt regulator that has gone bad and while it is internally OK, it drops under current drain. This might be consistent with an increase in the series resistance that shows full voltage open circuit and drops with current draw. Processors are so internal to the device that they are usually the last things to go. A friend of mine who designs embedded systems and has done several 8085 projects indicates to me that in all of the stuff he has dealt with, he had never seen a processor go down. The point is that if it got the microprocessor, it may have also taken a lot of the other IC's also. It may be the combination of other chips or the regulator. I hope this is helpful. Micheal Salem N5MS randy kisthardt wrote: hello im looking to buy two or so d8085ac-2 prossors to repair my acc rc- 96, that got a surg on the phone line. the prossor was pulling down the 5 volt rail and pulling it out retured the 5 volts. im sure its bad. everthing elce looks ok so far ,the connect relay is toast but i got one of them and the transistor that turns it on . i need a prossor to go aney further with it. i miss the old controller all readey. we have been getting bad storms here in south kentucky latley. i know now that i shuld have grounded the ground terminal on the back of the controller. i thought that the signal grounds were the same. the termnial grounds the discharge tube.im learning the hard way ha ha so if you got one or two you can part with or know of a place i can get a few reasonable or a good sub with out big minumin order please let me know thanks randy AG4ZQ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: FBI Release: Suspect Photos- REQUEST Assistance
Joe Montierth wrote: What I would like to know is what law or rule is being broken by taping conversations heard on non-telephone type channels? Anyone have a citation, or is this just urban legend? I know it used to be a rule, but that was years ago, lots of things have changed. Joe Joe: Glad to oblige your query. Below I have reproduced Title 47 United States Code Section 605, the so-called Secrecy Section of the Communications Act of 1931 as amended. Interpreting the entire section takes quite a bit of time and I won't do that, but there are a few interesting points to note. I have broken section (a) down into paragraphs instead of sentences in the same paragraph. I have put numbers after each paragraph instead of before because I would not want you to think that the sentences are numbered in the original. Section (a), Sentence 1 is a proscription of interception and divulgence. I think this was prohibition against telephone company employees, for example, who might become acquainted with the communcations that goes through their system. They are prohibited from divulging such information and one of the exception is demand of lawful authority. This could mean a warrant and not just a law enforcement demand. My recollection is that the noted exception in Title 18 is a part of the Omnibus Crime Control and Safe Streets Act which details warrant procedures for interception of wire and wireless communications. Also note that it talks about interestate and foreign communications. I don't think that this section applies to the kind of communications under discussion. Neither does Sentence 3. I think that the operative sentences are 2 and 4. They contain flat prohibitions of interception and divulgence. That is, it may not be illegal to intercept, but it is illegal to then divulge. Sentence 5 is the exception for amateurs and broadcast. To justify this as an on-topic discussion, this means that Section 605 does not apply to repeaters or persons who build repeaters (repeater-builders). I can imagine a procedure under paragraph 2 where you intercept, then tell the police that you have a tape of important significance in the war on terrorism. They then go get a warrant which allows them to seize the tape, then you hand it over. There may also be an FCC Rule under the C.F.R. (Code of Federal Regulations) which allows the FCC to receive complaints without there being violations of Section 605, but I have not had time to dig it out. I hope this is helpful. I do think it is interesting. Micheal Salem N5MS Norman, Oklahoma Here is Title 47 U.S.C. Section 605: § 605. Unauthorized publication or use of communications (a) Practices prohibited Except as authorized by chapter 119, Title 18, no person receiving, assisting in receiving, transmitting, or assisting in transmitting, any interstate or foreign communication by wire or radio shall divulge or publish the existence, contents, substance, purport, effect, or meaning thereof, except through authorized channels of transmission or reception, (1) to any person other than the addressee, his agent, or attorney, (2) to a person employed or authorized to forward such communication to its destination, (3) to proper accounting or distributing officers of the various communicating centers over which the communication may be passed, (4) to the master of a ship under whom he is serving, (5) in response to a subpena issued by a court of competent jurisdiction, or (6) on demand of other lawful authority. (1) No person not being authorized by the sender shall intercept any radio communication and divulge or publish the existence, contents, substance, purport, effect, or meaning of such intercepted communication to any person. (2) No person not being entitled thereto shall receive or assist in receiving any interstate or foreign communication by radio and use such communication (or any information therein contained) for his own benefit or for the benefit of another not entitled thereto. (3) No person having received any intercepted radio communication or having become acquainted with the contents, substance, purport, effect, or meaning of such communication (or any part thereof) knowing that such communication was intercepted, shall divulge or publish the existence, contents, substance, purport, effect, or meaning of such communication (or any part thereof) or use such communication (or any information therein contained) for his own benefit or for the benefit of another not entitled thereto. (4) This section shall not apply to the receiving, divulging, publishing, or utilizing the contents of any radio communication which is transmitted by any station for the use of the general public, which relates to ships, aircraft, vehicles, or persons in distress, or which is transmitted by an amateur radio station operator or by a citizens band radio operator. (5) (b) Exceptions The provisions
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Suggestions as to IFR Monitor Repairs ?
While I suspect that you are interested in VHF and UHF, one method that I used to calibrate an HF QRP wattmeter that I built was to use a scope to measure the voltage into a 50 ohm load using a T, then calculate the power and compare it to the wattmeter reading. The wattmeter worked up into the VHF region. I used my Tektronix 200 mhz digital scope which was especially accurate. You could also use an RF voltmeter, like the HP410c. Except for the Tektronix which was purchased new (and will be out of calibration), I don't really have anything that traces to the NIST. Micheal Salem N5MS Ralph Mowery wrote: I wish someone could tell me how to accurately calibrate a wattmeter so I could figure out which of the Wavetek, IFR or Bird is reading the right wattage. (they're all different) How much are they differant by ? Most wattmeters have a 5% or so specification. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Motorola Microphone Tester ST855 Manual
I acquired an ancient microphone tester made by Motorola, Model ST-855. It apparently has a tone generator that you can hold the microphone over and a VU meter to watch it with. The tone generator doesn't work and the VU circuit is a little sluggish. Anybody got a manual or even a schematic for this old fellar they would be willing to part with or to copy? I would certainly be willing to pay for something like this rather than have to trace out all this wiring. . . I think it could use some electrolytic transplants. In addition, somebody left the batteries in it too long and it corroded the battery terminals. Please reply direct. Micheal Salem N5MS Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplexer Cable Legnth
Hi Kevin: I get a 404 error when I tried to download the Wacom PDF document. Is it just me? Regards, Micheal Salem N5MS Norman, Oklahoma Kevin Custer wrote: Duplexer to Radio Set cabling lengths can be optimized by the method from this article and downloaded PDF file from Wacom: http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/gtm.html Kevin Custer Oh, and by the way.. Lets stop the name calling and other such BS, or you'll find yourself no longer receiving email from this particular list. Thanks Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Re: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola Motrac Radio]
I think that it could be made to work, but you would have to split the radio apart and separate the transmitter and receiver and probably put them in separate RF tight boxes boxes and use feed-through capacitors and filtering networks. The boxes would need to be completely shielded and you probably would need a couple of stages of feed-through capacitors and choke stages to bring the signals out. If you put the volume control and squelch control inside the box, that saves three or four wires. Motorola uses three feed-through to ground with two series chokes and completely separated barriers compartments in their older motrac base stations to keep their VHF stations free of desense. I have done a little of this, switching around receivers from mobiles into motrac base stations to convert them to repeaterreceivers. I bought the feed-throughs and the chokes and built the stages. This is possible, but it really may be more trouble than it is worth. It probably would be a better idea to find something else, but start this project as a long term learning exercise. Micheal Salem N5MS Neil McKie wrote: You bet ... if it happens you need the diagrams of the Motran, I probably have them here. Best of luck on your connty assigned project. Neil - WA6KLA Mathew Quaife wrote: Hi Niel, yes I think it is the Motran, as there are no tubes in this critter at all. But seems more work than it's worth. It was donated for use on the repeater that I am building for the county, will be thier first 2 meter repeater, and it's all out of my pocket. I bought a couple of Regency repeaters, disabled the controller inside and used the transmitter and reciever and connected them to an RLC4 controller, seems to work ok. Thought on the Motorola was to eliminate the need for the external amplifier, but it all matches, so will see if all comes together when I put it on the air here in a few weeks. Thanks for the input. Mathew - Original Message - From: Neil McKie [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 12:04 PM Subject: Re: [Re: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola Motrac Radio] Mathew Quaife wrote: This one has the three small transistorized finals on the right back side. By your description, that sounds like a T43MSN Motran. As far as numbers on the unit, don't find anything that meets the model numbers that's been mentioned. Might be easier to just locate one of the GE Mastr II and work with that. Right now I have the regency up and running, but the thougth was if I could convert a 100 watt radio, could do away with the amplifier. Thanks to the many that answered the call on this radio, but soulds like more headache than it would be worth. I do know that the manufacutre date on it is 1968, if that tells anymore about it. But let me ask, when we talk tubes, are we referring to glass tubes, or the later solid state tubes they came out with. Mathew Neil - Original Message - From: JOHN MACKEY [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 4:23 PM Subject: Re: [Re: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola Motrac Radio] A high band motrac would be something like U43LHT or U43MHT, where the High band Motran would be something like U43LLT or U43MSN. mch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That would be the MOTRAN. They have a boat load of round transistors in the final area. They used the same accessories as the MOTRAC. Or are you saying there really were MOTRACs with no tubes? Joe M. Micheal Salem wrote: Matthew: There are later versions of the Motrac which would be all solid state. A model number for a motrac would start with U23, U43, U53, etc. The tube versions would end with HHT, for example. I think that the solid state version would be a MHT or perhaps an LHT so that the solid model would be something like U43MHT. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola Motrac Radio
Joe: No, not really. I should have said that it was a Motrac-like radio since I characterized it as a later version of motrac. By my understanding and experience, there was little difference between a Motrac receiver and a Motran receiver (FET in the rf preamp instead a bipolar, etc.) There were, of course, differences in the transmitters. If I understood Matthew's e-mail, he said that it had no tubes but used Motrac cables. While I have experience with Motrac mobiles and base stations, I only have experience with Motran type base stations, (i.e., MSY type stations which had solid state 10 - 12 watt exciters). I thought that the Motrans used Motrac cables. Since he said it had no tubes, it sounds like he has a Motran. Micheal Salem N5MS mch wrote: That would be the MOTRAN. They have a boat load of round transistors in the final area. They used the same accessories as the MOTRAC. Or are you saying there really were MOTRACs with no tubes? Joe M. Micheal Salem wrote: Matthew: There are later versions of the Motrac which would be all solid state. A model number for a motrac would start with U23, U43, U53, etc. The tube versions would end with HHT, for example. I think that the solid state version would be a MHT or perhaps an LHT so that the solid model would be something like U43MHT. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Audio Recorder
Mike: Do the Moto programs need a serial port or a parallel port? I have three Gateway Handbook 40 Mhz 486DX computers. These are fairly small monochrome display with a serial port. Unfortunately the parallel port needs an adaptor to get to a DB25 connector and the floppy drive also needs a cable to run on the parallel port. Would these be suitable for programming, assuming I can get the program onto the harddrive? I have one of the parallel port adaptors and one of the floppy cables for these computers. Micheal Salem N5MS Mike Morris WA6ILQ wrote: John: You may want to keep that 286 for yourself. A lot of the Moto software that is used to program the synthesized radios (like Maxtrac, MT-1000, Spectra, Saber, etc) will not run on anything faster than 100mhz. There are tricks to slow down older computers, but it's a lot less problematical to just keep an old 286, 386 or 486 alive. The breakpoint seems to be a 486-66 or 486-100 and DOS 5. The problem is that the Moto software guys were hardware engineers and not programmers and used software timing loops to throttle the flow of the data in and out of the serial port. Fast machines break the serial port drivers. So if you have a working 286, 386 or 486 and if you think you ever might be needing to run Moto's Radio Service Software - RSS for short - keep that old clunker. Personally, I have a 286 desktop and a while back I set up a couple of IBM 700-series color Thinkpads (486-66) for a friend. I boosted the laptop internal hard drive from 200meg to 2 gig (the replacement drives cost $25 each). The laptop plugs into a docking station with a CD-ROM drive and a large hard drive in it. I can back up the entire laptop hard drive by doing a simple XCOPY from the internal hard drive to the docking station hard drive. And I'd like a copy of that announcement program if you end up zipping it... Mike WA6ILQ At 07:44 AM 2/7/04 -0500, John Clark [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Don, I have a 286 computer that the TV station used for music going to commercial out of the news. It runs in dos. If you can't find something similar in your dogpile searches, (learned something new myself, though I prefer 'google') let me know. I'm sure the program is small enough to zip up and FTP if not e-mail. I will be glad to do it for you, if for no other reason than you've given me a good idea of what to do with the old thing! Another option: We have a satellite fed radio station in a box on our tower that uses a tiny walkman-style MP3 player that has all the IDs and such on it. They ran wires to it to trigger from the computer. It looks so out of place in the nice rack of broadcast gear, but it works! John R Clark WCTV 6 Television Engineering (850) 893- EXT 205 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] My bird flew the coup
I have acquired several Bird meter movements over the years as well as line elements and spare cases. I would test the meters with a high resistance General Radio Resistance Decade Box (up to 10 negs or more, I don't remember, but I have a couple of these GR boxes. I would put the box in series with a low voltage supply and the meter, starting high (very important) and progressively moving lower to measure the current at various meter settings and eventually at full scale (30 uA). I would calibrate a known good meter and note the resistance settings for a particular voltage setting and compare them to the unknown. I would use high accuracy digital voltmeters across the decade box to measure the voltage, then calculate the current. A lot of digital voltmeters will measure current down to 200 uA or less. You could also put the digital voltmeter in series with the meter and the resistance box. I would log the currents at various readings on the meter and compare to the known good meter or to the digital voltmeter (uA meter). I have built up a couple of faux Birds out of these parts and they have been reasonably accurate. It certainly gives you a better picture of the meter when checking over a meter. Micheal Salem N5MS Neil McKie wrote: If you are going to test the meter movement, please keep in mind it is a 30 microamp meter - most any ohmmeter will cause immediate damage. Neil - WA6KLA Tom Manning wrote: BOB I have never seen a Bird Model 43 with any diode inside. Each slug has a single diode inside but if you have swapped slugs with no results and the RF body contact is OK, the movement must be defective if you have DC continuity thru the RG-58 cable. I have repaired many model 43's and find them to be very good meters. If you need a new movement at $100+ you can get them from Henry Radio. 73's Tom Manning, AF4UG [EMAIL PROTECTED] Virden Clark Beckman wrote: Cold solder joint on one of the diode inside? rtoplus wrote: Hi folks It appears as if my bird 43 meter has flown south for the winter. It reads slightly but only slightly. I've tried multiple radios, multiple bands, and multiple slugs...no avail. Any ideas how to bring this rascal home? thanks Bob, GMRS WPVV845, Amateur KG4WAD, LMRS WPXC892 Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
