Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: temperature control circuit
Thanks for sharing your circuit, Bob... Have you done any measurements to see how constant the temperature is maintained over time? Looks like a neat little circuit for a couple of other applications. 73, Tony W4ZT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: At 1/8/2007 15:22, you wrote: Hi Bob, I would like to get a copy of that circuit if you have one available. Thanks, OK, here is the circuit I used. The original National Semiconductor circuit had a 30 K resistor in series with a 400 uF cap., both in parallel with the 100 K resistor on the input of the 1st LM324 section. I found that combo to actually destabilize the operation of the controller for this particular application, so I removed them changed the 2 uF cap in series with the 10 megohm resistor to 5 uF. That cap is a non-polarized paper capacitor; I believe a 4.7 uF non-polarized ceramic should work as well. The 1/4 watt heater resistor LM34 temperature sensor are mounted on the same side of the crystal but separated as far apart as possible. Bob NO6B
Re: [Repeater-Builder] RE: repeater antenna suggestions
I seem to remember Myth Busters busted that one ;) 73, Tony W4ZT Mike Perryman wrote: You must be talking about the Darwin Award story.. LOL! 73 Mike Perryman www.k5jmp.us -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 11:06 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] RE: repeater antenna suggestions OK .. how many of you were immediately thinking of the barrel of tools up the tower story? (raises hand) g Nate Duehr wrote: Clip the pulley to something sturdy up-top, and have your buddy who thought he was getting out of doing the hard part down at the truck -- pull the heavy stuff up to you via same rope now fed back down to him through said pulley. snip Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] how to build a very simple repeater
shame_you_promise wrote: hi im thus anybody here who knows on how to build a very simple repeater controller with-out any programming just a verry simple repeater controller...and also how to connect the two radio tnx... This is actually a very simple thing to do but it will not meet the letter of the law regarding identification and wont have any time out protection. Are you in the USA? Do you intend to use this in the Amateur Radio Service or somewhere else? There are plenty of simple Carrier Operated Relay circuits and audio coupling circuits on the Internet. What you must realize is that the problem goes much deeper than that. For a repeater to work properly, you will have to consider the other pieces of the pie like what radios you want to use, duplexer, feedline and antenna. Give us more information and maybe we can help you better. 73, Tony W4ZT
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Z Matcher schem..jpg
Yup.. that schematic, the parts layout, the parts list and photographs I took of both the UHF and VHF units are on my web page at http://w4zt.com/zmatch/ and were posted here 1/25/2006. 73, Tony W4ZT John J. Riddell wrote: This may already have been sent but here it is again...the schematic for a Z matcher. John VE3AMZ Z Matcher schem..jpg Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Fan timer
Lee Williams wrote: I on the other hand run my fans 24/7,why switch them at all? Many repeater locations are very dirty. Running fans when there is nothing to cool just circulates the dust and dirt and deposits more of it inside your equipment. Many folks haven't re-discovered the pressurized cabinet principle that we used to use all the time. Bring air in through a filter and pressurize the cabinet so filtered air exits through all the cracks. Minimum dust collects on the equipment and air exhausting the equipment through all the cracks helps keep it out. Just the opposite is true of the so called modern day computers. Nothing like pulling unfiltered air in through every opening including disk drives etc! 73, Tony W4ZT snip Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Small (and LARGE) fonts (Please read)
You can configure Thunderbird to put messages from different accounts into one folder if you like. When I switched from Eudora to Thunderbird all the imported messages were brought on board in their respective folders and all of those folders were placed in one folder in Thunderbird. After that, you can drag the folders anywhere you like to organize. There have been significant improvements in Thunderbird over the past year or so. One problem I had with Thunderbird was it wanted to constantly bug me about compacting folders. Had to set the limit quite high to prevent that. Caution, never let it compact folders while you are on line. Always select the off line button (lower left corner in my configuration) before compacting folders. Filters work just fine and the smart Junk and Scam sensing works pretty well too. It learns from you. 73, Tony W4ZT Bob Dengler wrote: At 4/3/2006 11:01 AM, you wrote: You might consider switching to Thuderbird. I dumped Eudora a long time ago due to massive stability issues. Tbird is free. www.mozilla.com No thanks. I tried it it insisted on importing all my Eudora messages onto my NT partition, which almost locked up my system. Plus it has the same problem with styled text as Eudora. It also places mail from separate accounts into separate folders, which I don't want. I have no stability problems with Eudora. OTOH Thunderbird won't display my imported message folders. Bob NO6B Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] ELT Receiver on Repeater
Two dots don't work... try one: http://www.hamtronics.com/r121.htm 73, Tony W4ZT Mark A. Holman wrote: For some strange reason I cannot access their web page are they down 4 updates ? I did all the settings check. mark holman Paul Yonge wrote: Hamtronics has an R121 Aviation Receiver that you can read about at www..hamtronics.com/r121.htm http://www..hamtronics.com/r121.htm. They aren't exactly giving them away with the module at $209, the module in a cabinet with connectors at $299, and a complete unit at $495. This sounds like such a great idea, you'd think someone would encourage it by putting together a more affordable unit without any bells or whistles. Paul Noah Yonge, CBT W2ARK WQDY219 MIDLAKES REPEATER [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Feb 27, 2006, at 6:42 PM, Daron J. Wilson wrote: I had one, wish now I'd never sold it. The company doesn't make it anymore as far as I know. It was made by Ltronics, and was a simple rack mount receiver with a signal strength meter, and decoder circuit that would close a relay after hearing the 'yelp' of an ELT/EPIRP for a few minutes or so. I had it interfaced to my repeater in a manner that just put the audio on the repeater IF there was an alert. Anyway, you may have to get a receiver and build something to decode the yelp. If you find a simple way, I'd be interested in adding it again to my repeater network. Good luck N7HQR -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater- [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Alexander N Tubonjic Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 3:28 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] ELT Receiver on Repeater Hello All, I remember reading somewhere (I think in an ARRL Handbook) about a project to install an ELT (Emergency Locater Transmitter) reciever at a repeater site and link it into the repeater. I quess every time a signal was received some kind of tone or something came over the repeater alerting users that an ELT was going off. I am in Civil Air Patrol and think this would be something nifty to have on my repeater. If anyone has built and/or used something like this I would like to hear from you, thanks. Alexander Yahoo! Groups Links -- MZ� YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS * Visit your group Repeater-Builder http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder on the web. * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT RED CROSS
It is easy to criticize the Red Cross when you aren't a participant or have had a family member who is. My step son took leave from his administrative job in a comfortable Connecticut hospital to work as a volunteer for two weeks in a shelter located in a Slidell, LA high school gymnasium, just north of the lake. They were short handed, had less than two days reserves of water and food, no air conditioning, no showers, ONE National Guardsman for security, NO Amateur Radio communications volunteers and HUNDREDS of homeless people that were trying to contact family or friends while barely managing to survive. Take a walk in his shoes before you toss too many rocks... but if you're going to toss them, toss them at me, not him... he was doing the best he could with what he had. 73, Tony W4ZT Kevin Custer wrote: Jim B. wrote: The Homeland Security Department has requested and continues to request that the American Red Cross not come back into New Orleans. Not true. The American Red Cross has a Congressional mandate to do what they do. It would require an act of Congress to do prevent them from assisting. === Jim Barbour 10yrs with Greater Cleveland Red Cross Better look again, http://www.redcross.org/faq/0,1096,0_682_4524,00.html Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Cheap Tunnel Heatsink
Here is my version of a 12 Volt dummy load: http://astron.w4zt.com/dload.html And, for those of you that are like me and would like to load test HIGH VOLTAGE supplies, here's my high voltage dummy load: http://gs35b.com/hvload/index.html Careful... either of them can burn you... BAD. The high voltage dummy load can KILL you if you get into it. 73, Tony W4ZT Mike Morris wrote: Years ago I saw a homebrew version of that: Twenty tungsten auto headlights in a metal box, with a switch for each bulb, and a couple of heater blowers. Bulbs were 50 cents at the auto junkyard, as were the headlight switches. They were wired so that the parking light position (half-way out) lit up the low beam, and the headlight position (all the way out) lit up the high beam as well. A regular wall thermostat was used along with a relay to run the heater blowers (off of the 12v input). Cheap to build and worked just fine Mike WA6ILQ At 10:46 PM 2/11/06, you wrote: Brett, I have a copy of a commercial Load Bank which is nothing more than a bunch of large resistors in a case controlled by switches. I'll dig it out and scan it for you These people get $3,000.00 for this package ! I have the stuff to build one and have about $75.00 invested so far. 73 John VE3AMZ - Original Message - From: Brett mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, February 11, 2006 9:28 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Cheap Tunnel Heatsink Hi guys does anyone have that circuit diagram I need to build one to test 12 to 60 volt supply. Thanks in advance. Brett - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, February 12, 2006 10:01 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Cheap Tunnel Heatsink In a message dated 2/11/2006 3:10:54 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: http://www.ve3tjd.com/pictures/tech%20stuff/ What a perfect heatsink for that variable power supply load that was bouncing around on R-B about a year or two ago. You could vary the Amp Load on your power supply using a variable pot control. Gary K2UQ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Crimp versus Clamp Connectors
Eric Lemmon wrote: Lee, I appreciate your comments, but I can rebut them easily. I have seen too many clamp-type connectors pull apart, usually because they were over-tightened during assembly. Take a close look at a MIL-spec clamp-type N connector, and you can see that the knife-edge component can slice right through the braid if the nut is over-tightened, allowing the cable and the center conductor to pull right out of the connector. snip Every Mil-spec clamp type N connector I have ever made put the knife edge towards the red gasket material, not the braid. See the scan of an original instruction sheet: http://testeqdocs.w4zt.com/nconnector/ 73, Tony W4ZT Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mule on the attack
Too often folks take pictures from unknown sources and credit them with unbelievable things. Read the truth about the so called lion killing mule: http://www.truthorfiction.com/rumors/m/mule-lion.htm A little research usually clears up these questions. 73, Tony W4ZT vmckever wrote: Some one mention lion attack? Just got these from my sister and wanted to share. Next trip better take a mule with you. Vincent N6OA - Original Message - From: Russ Wilson [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 8:10 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Mule on the attack pretty neat pictures... Mule on the attack. These pics came from a guy in AZ. Yes, the mule killed the mountain lion. The lion had been stalking them for the better part of the morning, on the way out to a hunt. They were pretty sure it was after one of the dogs. The cat ambushed them, and the mule pictured tossed its rider and went into attack (defense) mode, the horses scattered and shots were fired but no one was sure if they hit the cat or not. Unfortunately, it wasn't until it was almost over that one of the guys started snapping pics. The mule finally stomped the cougar to death after biting and throwing it around like a rag doll. The dogs wouldn't even come close until the mule settled down. The cat was still alive here and trying to fight back The mule stomped the cat then pinned it to the ground and bit the heck out of the dead cat several more times. The cat was pretty much dead by now then mule picked up the cat again whipped it into the air again then stomped the dead cat again for good measure! Note the dog audience Gives new meaning to the term BAD ASSE And don't call me a JackAss. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] How To Navigate Around the Repeater Builder Site???
Here's a link to the GE Z-Matcher info that I posted on my page in January of 2004 for Mike Morris to grab and make a page on repeater-builder.com. I can't seem to find it on RB either so here it is: http://w4zt.com/zmatch/ 73, Tony W4ZT Jim Cicirello wrote: Laryn K8TVZ wrote: OK, time to ask. I do not get anything as an attachment. I view this list on the Web. It seems like there is a reason, but I do not remember why these attachments are not stored. Is there a way for me to get these attachments? Here is the How to sheet on the Z matcher. John VE3AMZ Z matcher info.pdf Laryn you are not alone! I went to the website and could NOT find the Z Matcher info.pdf. Is there a sheet somewhere that explains how to find these articles? I am not ashamed to say there is a lot of information I ask for that is already posted if I had an idea of how or where to look. HELP! Thanks guys, JIM KA2AJH Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Z matcher info.pdf
Here's a link to the GE Z-Matcher info that I posted on my page in January of 2004 for Mike Morris to grab and make a page on repeater-builder.com. I can't seem to find it on RB either so here it is: http://w4zt.com/zmatch/ 73, Tony W4ZT Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Static Cling (was - polyphaser)
Awww, c'mon Kevin, that'd be a good way to raise funds (RB poster or tee?)! Add a little Tesla coil so you'd have a few arcs and sparks and it'd be even more interesting! Happy New Year! Tony King, W4ZT Kevin Custer wrote: Kevin King wrote: I want a picture of you in slippers scooting across the carpet with a static buster in your mouth. :) Talk about good marketing! Ah Kev, how about no? grin Kevin Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Buzzing audio
I had a significant problem with RFI from my Napco MA1008 alarm panel. The search took me to the keypad cable as the primary source of the RFI. I ended up with clamp on ferrites (2) at the keypad on the ribbon cable, and (1) at the control panel with the keypad cable wrapped through it twice. I also put .01 uf disc caps across the supply output of the panel going to both the keypad and to the PIR. I also added another clamp on ferrite with ALL the loop wires, alarm output and power wires looped through it twice. The primary offending signals were the DATA and CLOCK going to the keypad. Good luck! 73, Tony W4ZT n60sb wrote: Thanks Bob. No electronic battery chargers here. The only switching supply in my home is in my computer, and no, the computer is not causing the buzz. Your comments made me research some other possibilities - one being my alarm system with a liner circuit for charging the standby battery (using a simple three leg regulator). This seems to be causing most of the buzzing. But when the alarm system is powered down, there still remains some areas that have buzzing - although fewer occurrences now. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Bob M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Not that this would be your problem, but I had a strange signal floating around my house. It ran from about 400 kHz to 4 MHz and maybe even a bit higher. Signals were occuring every 101.2 kHz and were solid carriers with 1-2 kHz of FM at a 60 Hz rate. I turned every circuit breaker off one at a time and it never went away. Then I pulled the main breaker - the signals disappeared. The only thing that's not on its own breaker is the generator transfer switch which is between the main breaker and the distribution panel. Inside that box is the electronics and a battery charger. I pulled the wires going from the charger to the generator (40 ft of #12 wire in plastic conduit) and the noise went away. Turns out the 6 amp charger uses a switching power supply that runs around 100 kHz. I tried two clip-on ferrites on the DC wires - no appreciable help, maybe a couple dB. I have since bought another charger that uses a linear power supply with an ordinary transformer and plan on swapping them. Bob M. == --- Laryn Lohman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My Yaesu handheld will often buzz when receiving the local repeater when the charger is plugged into the side of the radio. I know what you are thinking-- those cheap wall chargers are not filtered very well, that's why I'm hearing buzz. That may be true, but the buzz I am hearing is not from skimpy filtering of the DC feeding the radio. I believe it is caused by the rectifier diodes in the charger, which will cause a form of intermod to be produced, which basically modulates RF at a 60 or 120 cycle rate. The level of buzz will vary greatly as I move around the radio, touch the radio, etc. Certain positions will produce intolerable buzz, others none at all. I know, the charger does not directly handle any RF. But it is inevitably a part of your antenna system whether receive or transmit, especially when using a duck on a radio. Therefore, RF on the wire to the charger, and the AC side too, ends up in the rectifier diodes, and is modulated. I've notices this phenomenon on other radios too, not just my Yaesu, just as you have. I think you are experiencing the same thing that I do here. I haven't benched the theory presented here to prove it right or wrong, but it might be useful to try some small RF bypass caps on each diode in your power supply(s)... Or, ferrite chokes on the wire from the charger. Laryn K8TVZ On Nov 21, 2005, at 5:43 PM, n60sb wrote: I am using two Icom IC-2AT hand held radios as a low power one way repeater system. This system provides a full quieting signal into a local repeater whenever I use another HT around the house. The one way transmitter uses a yagi antenna in the attic and the frequency is set to a local repeater input frequency. The one way receiver uses a simple rubber duck antenna (high sensitivity is not an issue here) and listens to an offset frequency opposite that of the local repeater thus allowing me to listen to the local repeater directly on my HT. Everything works great with one exception. Whenever I stand in a few specific locations around the house, an irritating buzz is transmitted from the one way repeater. I did some additional testing and discovered that several other two meter receivers (various brands) in my home will receive a buzzing sound whenever I transmit from several specific locations within my home using various brands of hand held radios. The exact location where the HT produces the buzz varies with different receivers that are located in different places in my home. Incidently, it makes no difference if the output power of the HT is increased or decreased. This problem may be obvious to others, but my friends and I are unable to
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinadder
Sinadders are frequently sold on that auction site... begins with an e, ends with a y. I bought both of mine there and both for less than that $80 figure. Check it out, take your time, you'll get a nice one for a reasonable cost. There is one listed there now: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7534958333 I'd like to find a manual too if someone can scan theirs. 73, Tony W4ZT kb4mdz wrote: I have a couple not-very-clear copies of the manual; It's clear enough to read, just not comfortably. Send me a snailmail address I'll send one. BTW, pray that no one ever damages the meter movement on you; my Sinadder's movement is blown up, (##**$#($)%#...grumble, grumble) and quite a few years ago I tried to find a replacement; At the time I looked Motorola wanted something like $80.00 or more for it; I just can't bear to get rid of my box in case I can find a replacement for less than an arm or leg. Silly packrat. If someone can figure out how to calculate what mA or uA movement it is, I'd love to know. Tell you what, Ralph; if you can somehow measure your movement's and let me know, I'll hoist an 807 in your direction! Chuk Gleason [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cary, NC --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ralph Mowery [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does anyone have a link to an online manual for the Helper Instruments Sinadder ? I know how to use one but would like to see what the book has to say about it, maybe even a schematic incase I need to repair it at a later date. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] info freg
SERA does not make their frequency database available on line. You can do a Google search for repeater freq Tennessee and get lots of hits for sites that list frequencies throughout the state. 73, Tony W4ZT Russ Stafford wrote: www.sera.org - Original Message - *From:* Maire-Radios mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] *To:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com *Sent:* Tuesday, June 21, 2005 8:13 PM *Subject:* [Repeater-Builder] info freg * does any have a web site I can look up the amateur freg's in Tennessee? * * * * thank you * Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Small Signals
Dave, A relatively easy thing you can do is to put a Mastr II exciter in a shielded box with a BNC connector for output. You can easily connect attenuators directly to the box in line to get your weak signals. This works on both VHF and UHF. You can also add a small audio oscillator to modulate the exciter if you like (comes in handy if you have a Sinader). 73, Tony W4ZT Dave VanHorn wrote: Does anyone have a pointer to a low level signal source, VHF/UHF? I don't have a service monitor, and I can't really justify one. I occasionally need to tune up a receiver. What I don't have, is a signal source at the 10uV and down level. I've used HTs and attenuators, but the leakage through the cable usually exceeds the attenuated signal. I would like to have calibrated levels, at least to some degree. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Morse Code Contest on JAY LENO
Great job Dennis... thanks! 73, Tony W4ZT wieckdj wrote: Here you go: Check it out at http://www.ku3o.net Dennis N4ZKR Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Need Kenwood TK-780 repeater controller hookup
That's an interesting device for a computer but I wonder why anyone would go to all that trouble (except for fun of course) when you can easily cool a Mastr II continuous duty PA with the same number of fans and it'll run cool and comfortable forever. For the price you'd pay for that water cooling unit ($200 class) you can buy the Mastr II PA and the new fans. It'll keep running even if the fans die. That's reliability which is what you want if you're putting up a repeater. 73, Tony W4ZT Dave VanHorn wrote: Power would have to be reduced in lock to talk (repeater) applications and a decent small blower across the tx radio I was cruising through fry's yesterday, and I wondered Has anyone ever liquid-cooled a repeater? The Koolance Exos system looks pretty easy to apply, the only hard part would be adapting an existing amplifier to use their waterblock. I have a Koolance machine here, that has run with ZERO failures in three years. For me, that's very unusual. My machines tend to run heavily loaded, and run 24/7, so I normally expect an HD, motherboard, CPU, or power supply failure every 3-6 months. The new Koolance HD cooler looks like you could apply it against an amplifier pretty easily. The old one used thermally conductive goop that you poured all over the electronics in your HD, then put the cooler block onto. This is how the two drives in this machine are done, they run so cool you'd never think they are on. A key element of course, would be a 12VDC pump, which this unit apparently has. http://www.xoxide.com/koalex.html Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fan Temp Switch
I have used the switch shown here on an earlier Mastr II mobile conversion I did. This switch closes at 110F and opens at 90F. 73, Tony W4ZT kc4wgh wrote: Back again. Any suggested on a vendor for a temperature switch to turn the 12 vdc fans ON and OFF. I used a test setup this morning with some stud mounted temperature switched and a temperature device. They make-up at 150 degree F, and opens at 120 degree F. I think this is allowing the heat sink to get too HOT! Thanks... Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fan Temp Switch
My apoligies, I meant to include the URL: http://repeater.w4zt.com/uhf/gemastr2 I have used the switch shown here on an earlier Mastr II mobile conversion I did. This switch closes at 110F and opens at 90F. 73, Tony W4ZT kc4wgh wrote: Back again. Any suggested on a vendor for a temperature switch to turn the 12 vdc fans ON and OFF. I used a test setup this morning with some stud mounted temperature switched and a temperature device. They make-up at 150 degree F, and opens at 120 degree F. I think this is allowing the heat sink to get too HOT! Thanks... Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Desense im guessing/Preamp-n-Pads
I use small 2 watt attenuators with male BNC on one end and female on the other. There are various manufacturers and I see them often at hamfests. You'll find them anywhere from $0.25 to $10.00 each. Shop wisely and test the ones you get to make sure they haven't been smoked. I use two of these 3 db pads on my little Bird Termiline 250 milliwatt wattmeter which is a great tool for testing Mastr II exciters. 73, Tony W4ZT Brent wrote: Thats what im looking for Better signal to noise ratio ! Right now it is amplifing more than what is needed. I will experiment with this 8 and 10db pads i have. I am interested in what type of pad people are using, since this preamp is mounted inside the mastr II vhf receiver when i received it its location might need to be or should be moved.. but if i intend to leave it there it has a bnc to rca jumper installed from the preamp to the receiver, and i would need to install the pad there. Brent - Original Message - From: Tony King, W4ZT [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 11:22 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Desense im guessing? Cody Hayden wrote: db pads are bandaids and not cures..get a better duplexer..problem solved.. It is common practice to use 6 to 10 db of attenuation between a new high gain (typically as much as +18 db) GaAsFET low noise amplifier and an older receiver. The gain of the preamp is about 10 db higher than you need for the receiver yet you can gain benefits from the low noise front end and high intermod resistance. Placing the attenuator between the preamp and the receiver doesn't hurt the noise figure yet keeps the receiver front end input signal within acceptable limits. It doesn't reduce the usable sensitivity of the receiver either. The attenuator doesn't make up for deficiencies in a duplexer but it certainly can slam the door on other problems many of us have faced with excessive gain ahead of our older less sensitive receiver. The result is a much lower noise front end with moderately higher gain. Bottom line: better signal to noise ratio. --- Brent [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: One of my 2m repeater has a problem.snip 73, Tony W4ZT Yahoo! Groups Links --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses at TNWEB LLC] -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.8.1 - Release Date: 3/23/2005 Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT Help Needed.....
I receive the signal here in Union City mid scale on the tall antenna. Verified it is transmitting a 100 Hz tone also. 73, Tony W4ZT georgiaskywarn wrote: Folks, We need your help. As of 5:50am (local) there is a signal (Sounds like a nice clean full quieting dead carrier. This is from Fayetteville,GA with the remote antenna up at 125') on 449.675. This just happens to be the input to the hub repeater for the Georgia Skywarn Linked Repeater System (www.georgiaskywarn.com). This signal has been there for more than 24 hours now. The signal is weak enough that the preamp can be taken offand it cannot hear the signal. Unfortunately with the preamp off, most of the southern repeaters cannot get back into the hub. Also several of the repeaters that link in cannot or do not have pl in their memory channel for the hub repeater. Most of the linked repeaters can be moved into one of the other local uhf machines (444.600 in Fayetteville) however some are rock bound and cannot. I am sending this out to several groups because we have some impending storms this weekend. Please check in your area for a dead key on 449.675. Thanks, Robert Burton KD4YDC DEC NWS Peachtree City, GA ps Sorry for putting this on the Repeater Builders email group...however several people in the group (in the metro Atlanta area) that are not on the other list I am sending this too. txns. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Desense im guessing?
Cody Hayden wrote: db pads are bandaids and not cures..get a better duplexer..problem solved.. It is common practice to use 6 to 10 db of attenuation between a new high gain (typically as much as +18 db) GaAsFET low noise amplifier and an older receiver. The gain of the preamp is about 10 db higher than you need for the receiver yet you can gain benefits from the low noise front end and high intermod resistance. Placing the attenuator between the preamp and the receiver doesn't hurt the noise figure yet keeps the receiver front end input signal within acceptable limits. It doesn't reduce the usable sensitivity of the receiver either. The attenuator doesn't make up for deficiencies in a duplexer but it certainly can slam the door on other problems many of us have faced with excessive gain ahead of our older less sensitive receiver. The result is a much lower noise front end with moderately higher gain. Bottom line: better signal to noise ratio. --- Brent [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: One of my 2m repeater has a problem.snip 73, Tony W4ZT Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Setting dual squelch levels
Mike, What frequency are you guys on? How high is your antenna? How long has this problem been going on? How often does it happen? What's the call of your repeater? There might be an explanation other than intermod. There is one VHF repeater in metro Atlanta (West) right now that frequently goes spurious and, while on the actual operating frequency of that repeater during the failure you can't hear the users (well, maybe very weak and with sizzling), you can hear that repeater signal with audio sweeping across other frequencies (other repeater inputs). 73, Tony W4ZT (Union City) Mike - WM4B wrote: Dick, Thanks for the info... that helps steer me in the right direction. We've got a CAT-1000 controller and I'm still trying to get smart about it. It seems like it does everything but butter your toast in the morning, and it might even do that if I can figure out the right command! I wish we could just solve the intermod problem, but it's so intermittant we can't chase it down, so I guess the bandaide approach will have to do! -- de WM4B Mike Kathleen, GA --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Rich Misener [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Mike, I had this problem with the 146.800 repeater, here in Northeast Oregon, when Fox fired up Ch. 11 (318,000 Watts ERP)about 200 feet from our tower. The club refused to let me put it in total PL, due to the number of members that did not have tone capability, so I compromised and put it in both. I was fortunate to be using the venerable SCOM 5K controller (keeps going, and going, and going). After installing an old Comspec TS-32P that I had in the parts pile, I set the 5K to respond to either COR or PL and tightening the squelch to eleminate the burbs and chirps of the intermod. When the squelch is broken the controller goes into repeat. This works in most cases, but allows for mobile drop-out and severe flutter. When a PL tone is detected, the controller goes to repeat, regardless of the squelch setting. This will only work if you install the decoder ahead of the squelch. In my case VOL/SQL HI in a MASTR II. Most newer controllers have the ability to key the transmitter with COR only, PL only, COR and PL, or COR or PL. If your controller does not have these features, you can build a circuit with a few cheap common parts to do the job. Let us know if you need more help. Dick---N7ZH Technical Director Spout Springs Repeater Association --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike - WM4B [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Greetings all, I've just been brougt on board to assist our local repeater guru and we've been working on trying to solve an intermod problem we have. Thus far, we've had little luck finding the source, and one solution we discussed was to add PL to the machine. Unfortunately, (or fortunately) the club really doesn't want to PL the machine. It's one of the few 'toneless' machines in this area, and we're located right off of I-75, where we have the potential to get a lot of hams passing through. I've heard from several folks that it's possible to set up dual squelch levels... one for signals with PL and one for those without. We know that by setting the squelch tight, we don't get the intermod problem (at least not to any significant extent), so if would could set the squelch tight, allowing ALL signals to access the machine, and then bypass that setting with a looser squelch for those that have PL, we'd be in pretty good shape. Can one of you guru's point me in the right direction? Thanks, Mike WM4B Kathleen, GA Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] trimmer caps for rf service
I think the important issue is how the capacitor reacts when passing RF current. A capacitor that works fine in one application may not stay within tolerance when you turn up the heat from within. Most folks using trimmers in RF power amplifiers use good quality mica compression trimmers or small air variable capacitors. Good quality will likely be interpreted to mean construction on a ceramic base and real mica, no plastic, between the metal plates. Though ceramic trimmers, those with ceramic disks with deposited metal for capacitor plates, may work well in a receiver, they don't handle RF current very well so ceramic doesn't necessarily mean it is a good capacitor for RF power amps. Disk ceramic capacitors are a poor choice where RF currents will cause them to heat up. If we look at the capacitors used by M and GE in their PAs we find lots of small stacks of mica between metal plates where high RF currents are found. Low impedance, low inductance, high current handling capability... they're all things we think about. But back to the topic... Trimmers for RF amps really come in only two good forms: mica compression trimmers and air variables. For other types of RF service, there are lots of choices including vacuum variables where we need high voltage and high current handling ability. Most capacitors (except maybe electrolytics) will handle some RF at some level at some frequency with no ill effects. 73, Tony W4ZT skipp025 wrote: How do you know the trimmers are rated for RF Service? skipp Q [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a huge inventory of quality NOS trimmer caps of all kinds,as well as feed thrus and ferrite beads and cores... skipp025 wrote: Spectrum doesn't put rf rated caps in the pa section of the transmitter. The [EMAIL PROTECTED] low dollar trimmer caps they use don't handle RF well. I replaced all the rf section caps with rf rated units and the unit has never farted since. Spectrum is not the only company that makes this mistake. snip Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Stuff for sale but no reply's
Doing an advanced search on the FCC ULS yields but one result for Heiniger: Call Sign WB8IIL Radio Service HA - Amateur Status Expired Auth Type Regular Dates Grant 11/15/1988 Expiration 11/15/1998 Effective 11/15/1988 Cancellation11/16/2000 Licensee Information Licensee ID SGIN 000 FRN TypeIndividual Licensee Name HEINIGER, ARTHUR W 108 WILLINDA DR SAINT CLAIRSVILLE, OH 43950 Amateur Data Operator Class AdvancedPrev. Op. Class General Group D 73, Tony W4ZT Neil McKie wrote: When this first surfaced, I did a name search on www.qrz.com and didn't find anything - for anyone with a name spelled Heiniger Then I did a reverse spelling of the name - nothing there either. Neil Steven Passmore wrote: Could not one of the moderators look up the info on this person who sent out the for sale list Yahoo doesn't let moderators see any more information than you or I His profile is at: http://profiles.yahoo.com/nickheiniger It all seems too fishy to me. Notice it was created the same day as the post. Also the total lack of any personal information, the yahoo email account, The prefrence to pay via paypal and the sense of urgency. No thanks. Steve P. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Homebrew a 2M/440 crossband coupler?
Derek, Take a look at this one. You can build your own and by choosing components you can can handle all the power you want: http://home.datacomm.ch/hb9abx/duplexer.html and for hf-6/2/70cm: http://home.datacomm.ch/hb9abx/diplhf6m-vuhf.html The weak link will be the capacitors and you can build it with small air variables or your choice of better components. The components in this home brew one are about the same you'll find in most amateur grade diplexers these days. As for amateur grade diplexers, I've had good results with the Comet 2/70cm unit with SO-239 connectors on my 2 meter and 70 cm repeaters. I also had a problem with the units that had pigtails... stay away from them. 73, Tony W4ZT derek_mcintyre wrote: Hello Group, Does anyone have, or know where I can get plans to homebrew a 144/440 MHz crossband coupler (aka diplexer) ?? I would like to find something with wideband characteristics (ie, low pass, high pass) such as some of the diamond or comet models, but needs to be able to handle 100 watts FM continuously from each band, without excessive loss and without duplex noise, or little capacitors smoking. Any suggestions, other than the Telewave models that cost over $300? Thanks, KC4FWC Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Powering the Repeater With Marine Batteries
I have bought from them several times in the past and they said on the phone that they will sell to hams. Their service was good. They don't or didn't take credit cards but did ship as soon as they received my check. 73, Tony W4ZT Richard wrote: I've been doing some research into 3-mode battery chargers and the Ibex units seem to fit the bill for my application. Using your link, I checked their web site but they state they will not sell to individuals. Is this true and is there a way around this? Richard, N7TGB -Original Message- From: Tony King, W4ZT [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, January 21, 2005 11:59 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Powering the Repeater With Marine Batteries One of the best ways to manage the charging of your batteries is to use a multi-mode charger designed to properly charge and maintain them. Ibex http://www.ibexmfg.com carries two 3 mode chargers that are very well suited for the job. If you look at their web page under the 12 volt chargers, the last one listed also has load shedding capability. That means that not only does it charge the batteries, but you can power the receiver, controller and exciter (but not the PA) through the load shedding switch and when the battery voltage drops, it will shut everything down; saving your batteries from total depletion. Using a charger like this you will still need to isolate the output of the AC power supply and the batteries. I personally prefer to do this with hard relay contacts so that you don't have voltage drop through a diode to contend with. Which ever way you choose, spend a little extra to charge the batteries correctly and they will last a very long time and be there when you need them. 73, Tony W4ZT Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Powering the Repeater With Marine Batteries
One of the best ways to manage the charging of your batteries is to use a multi-mode charger designed to properly charge and maintain them. Ibex http://www.ibexmfg.com carries two 3 mode chargers that are very well suited for the job. If you look at their web page under the 12 volt chargers, the last one listed also has load shedding capability. That means that not only does it charge the batteries, but you can power the receiver, controller and exciter (but not the PA) through the load shedding switch and when the battery voltage drops, it will shut everything down; saving your batteries from total depletion. Using a charger like this you will still need to isolate the output of the AC power supply and the batteries. I personally prefer to do this with hard relay contacts so that you don't have voltage drop through a diode to contend with. Which ever way you choose, spend a little extra to charge the batteries correctly and they will last a very long time and be there when you need them. 73, Tony W4ZT w9mwq wrote: Last night my power supply took a dump! Good thing for backups. Anyways, what I am wanting to do is put 3 marine batteries together to run the power for the repeater with a charger to charge the batteries. If I use a 12 Volt Car charger, do I risk the chance of noise, or would the batteries filter that. What would be a good source to charge these batteries? The power supply that will be taking the place of the worthless Pyramid supply will be an Astron 52 Amp Rack Mount Supply. I have heard in the past that batteries have been charged with these power supplies, but not sure if this if true or not. Any ideas? Thanks. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Outlet for RG214/U
The Wire Man carries it: http://thewireman.com/coaxp.html and complete specs at: http://thewireman.com/coaxdata.html Item #111 RG214/U MFG ADC MIL SPEC per ft/ft 1.88 per ft/100 1.65 per ft/500 1.568 per ft/1000 1.485 73, Tony W4ZT At 07:48 PM 12/28/2004, you wrote: Thanks Chuck and Kevin. Found them on the net. Dang, $2.00 a foot, must be made of GOLD...Ah well, gotta have it. Mathew - Original Message - From: Chuck Kelsey [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 4:02 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Outlet for RG214/U The RF Connection. Google it, they have a web site. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: w9mwq [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2004 6:57 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Outlet for RG214/U Where is a good outlet that sells some of this highly talked about RG214/U Cable? Need about 30 feet of it. Thanks. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Telewave TWPC-1005-1 (Was DCI Band Pass Filter)
Gary, You can see the specs including curves etc for the DCI filters at http://www.dci.ca/?Section=Amateur and they should answer your questions about them. 73, Tony W4ZT At 11:00 PM 12/26/2004, you wrote: Eric, Thank you for the explanation of the TWPC-4508-2 bandpass filter and its application. This is the way people like me who have been playing with this stuff gets straight info on how things really work without spending wasted hours at the repeater site. I thought this filter could be hooked either as a pass or notch cavity. The FM broadcast station is very close to my 2 meter repeater antenna. I thought proper approach would be put FM TWPC-1005-1 cavity in my Rx side of my duplexer to notch out FM station. Or, should I put a DCI filter in line someplace. Or add a pass cavity on Rx side. What happens to the RF rejection on a filter such as a DCI for 2 meters when the freq you want to reject is say 46.205 mhz away from 2 meter repeater input. How much attenuation does a filter such as a DCI provide at these far away freqs? I don't want to be boring for those who are in the know. But I am aware there is a lot of good knowledge here. Not everyone tuned into this reflector is an expert. That's why many are here to help us guys learn. Thanks, Gary K2UQ Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Talking Clock
My original post carried the correct URL for the Speaking Clock: http://www.lux-aeterna.com/clock/ 73, Tony W4ZT At 12:22 PM 12/27/2004, you wrote: It would be good to list the correct link as I tried the one listed and got no place. thanks - Original Message - From: Larry Lockard [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, December 27, 2004 12:17 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Talking Clock Hi Mark, Just thought you might like to know I just downloaded the Speaking Clock from the link that Tony posted and it runs fine on my XP (SP2) system. The download was a bit of a challenge as it kept directing me to a download for Sticky Notes however finally from the mirror in Canada (alberta) came the right file named spcl25.zip size is 915 K. This version of the program even allows you download additional voices for different languages plus male and female voices. Perhaps your original download had a bug ?? If you can't get the download link to work correctly send a note and I will forward you a copy. Larry - Original Message - From: Mark Holman [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, December 25, 2004 6:16 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Talking Clock It seems that I tried to download it WIN XP SP II does not reconize it said invalid handle. Mark Holman AB8RU *** IT Student * Happy Holidays - Original Message - From: Tony King - W4ZT [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, December 23, 2004 8:16 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Talking Clock The Speaking Clock works pretty good and is available as FREEware here: http://www.lux-aeterna.com/clock/ 73, Tony W4ZT At 01:12 AM 12/23/2004, you wrote: Can anyone tell Me of A Software Talking Clock program , I had a old radio Shack one that I had modified yrs ago on the repeater and it went bad and it is no longer made. Thanks Don Happy Holidays Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Talking Clock
I use Speaking Clock with Win 2000 pro without any problems. Set to announce the time every ten minutes it can easily provide a time hack on recordings (I use it that way). I haven't tried it on XP (I don't use it). Version 2.01 is what I have in use here (current version is 2.5). I can send you the zip of the older version if you want it (822k). Merry Christmas! 73, Tony W4ZT At 09:16 AM 12/25/2004, Mark wrote: It seems that I tried to download it WIN XP SP II does not reconize it said invalid handle. Mark Holman AB8RU *** IT Student * Happy Holidays - Original Message - From: Tony King - W4ZT [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, December 23, 2004 8:16 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Talking Clock The Speaking Clock works pretty good and is available as FREEware here: http://www.lux-aeterna.com/clock/ 73, Tony W4ZT At 01:12 AM 12/23/2004, you wrote: Can anyone tell Me of A Software Talking Clock program , I had a old radio Shack one that I had modified yrs ago on the repeater and it went bad and it is no longer made. Thanks Don Happy Holidays Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Talking Clock
The Speaking Clock works pretty good and is available as FREEware here: http://www.lux-aeterna.com/clock/ 73, Tony W4ZT At 01:12 AM 12/23/2004, you wrote: Can anyone tell Me of A Software Talking Clock program , I had a old radio Shack one that I had modified yrs ago on the repeater and it went bad and it is no longer made. Thanks Don Happy Holidays Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Requiring CTCSS
At 08:57 PM 12/3/2004, Paul wrote: snip The only down side that I can see is people that don't have a repeater directory in front of them would not be able to talk on the repeater. A ID with a voice announcement about the CTCSS tone frequency would/and is going to fix that problem on my repeaters. snip Paul snip Russ mentioned the same solution earlier. The only down side is that, as you pointed out, folks that don't have a directory in front of them can't key the repeater. If they can't key the repeater, they can't hear the announcement telling them what the CTCSS tone frequency is. That's not meant to be an argument against using tone, just pointing out one of the problems. Two possible solutions are: 1) A common tone defeat code on DTMF which would allow a transient user to at least access the repeater long enough to hear the announcement (there are a couple around here like that, mine being one of them), and 2) Using something like the LITZ code to retrieve the tone information. 73, Tony W4ZT Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] snide remarks
Unfortunately, Nate apparently missed the entire point... At 08:37 PM 12/2/2004, you wrote: As Dennis Miller would say... I don't want to get off on a rant here, but... oh but you did... Tony King - W4ZT wrote: Gentlemen, if you can't offer sincere help or an opinion that's relevant or that doesn't reflect negatively on your upbringing, it might be better to leave it alone. And how exactly is bringing Art's supposedly bad upbringing into the conversation sincere help or an opinion that's relevant? I call foul on your supposed moral high-ground on that one. I didn't bring anyone's upbringing into the conversation... Art did. If the shoe fits, wear it. My objection is and was NOT about SERA or SERA's policy. Rather my objection is to the apparent careless manner that people go off on others for either not meeting their so called technical standard or for not living where they consider there is a higher moral standard. He didn't exactly say, Your mother is a hamster and your father smells of elderberries, so I'm not sure what you're all up in arms about. (With apologies to Monty Python.) right... hail Monty ;) but he certainly did imply something else now, didn't he? Joking or not, wrong place, wrong time. What comes next, racial slurs? Inappropriate in any public forum (and private as far as I am concerned). Just so we know where you stand on the issue: I notice that your callsign is a 4-land call -- do you have an un-toned repeater in SERA territory? (Just wondering if you have a dog in this fight.) I'm just curious. Curiosity killed the cat... but just to satisfy yours and perhaps others, I have two coordinated repeaters in SERA territory, both with tone. Again, my comments had nothing to do with SERA's policy. There are reasons to have tone and reasons not to have tone and that wasn't my discussion at all. Re-read my post. Art's opinion is correct in a lot of people's eyes -- CTCSS, a 1970's technology that's well-proven and works -- shouldn't be so hard to get hams to use 30 years after it was in fairly wide use in the commercial world. And older hams *are* typically the people too lazy to implement it, for all their talk of I remember when I built my own radio, walking uphill in the snow, both ways. That was another un-necessary slam at older hams by you. Begging your pardon sir, but you've crossed the line yourself! One day you will be old... when you are, you may look back on the days when you were young and technology was different. Your day will come. His comments about old farts is probably technically accurate. A large percentage of older hams (too large) will invite you over for an 807 and talk mighty talk about the old days of radio but they won't take ten minutes to solder a $30 tone board into their old [insert old 2m rig here]. And they're uneducated and lazy about learning the real issues surrounding the operation of a modern repeater at a high-RF site. Uneducated and lazy... what hole have you lived in and for how long? Look around you at the real intelligent people on this list and others... They are here sharing their knowledge with folks like you and you say things like that. Insults will get you no where. For this behaviour, it's approprate they get a few public raspberries. Using the endearing term, Old Fart works. And you're better than they? Like I said, I couldn't care less how old you are or anyone else is. It has nothing to do with that. Technically, I'm an old fart too... licensed for 40 years. How old are you? Oops, I said I didn't care didn't I? ;) How do you convince people to use this OLD technology if even the coordination powers that be back off from forcing the issue? Maybe that's how he could have phrased it for a lively discussion. We all know this is a problem facing many of us in densely populated areas -- this is Repeater-Builder, for goodness sakes. We've all seen it. Art was just frustrated with the mentality and voiced it. Many people are. I didn't know that (might have something to do with cousins marrying cousins) was the issue. If that is your idea of Southern mentality then you've lived under the wrong mushroom. I found the information he provided useful in that I didn't know SERA was talking about making a change in their policy, and I didn't think SERA would back down on that one if they were seriously considering it. That's unfortunate if they did. They're a big powerful organization and can use that power for good or evil or nothing. In this case, it sounds like they might have opted for the third option. Because they're so large, a lot of other coordinating bodies follow suit on issues like this one. Perhaps that was the unwritten frustration in Art's message. I don't know. I'm NOT saying that it was for the reasons that Art surmises though... that's his OPINION. Art's joking comments about marrying cousins is an old enough joke my grandfather at age 87 knows about it, so I
Re: [Repeater-Builder] snide remarks
Hi Barry, very carefully risking a brief step into rules discussion, my apology In part 97.205 (http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/waisidx_03/47cfr97_03.html) there's no provision for anything other than a call sign assigned to an individual or a club. FCC assigned call signs for amateur repeaters ended years ago. When the requirement for FCC assigned repeater call signs ended, they no longer renewed the licenses they granted under the old rules. That's why I said previously WR4APT. 73, Tony W4ZT At 02:33 AM 12/3/2004, Barry wrote: Hello Tony, with respect for your old fart status where under part 97 does it allow you to place your FCC assigned callsign for your personal station on your repeater? Only the FCC can assign a callsign to a repeater through a special application if requested, otherwise no transmission of a personal callsign is authorized per part 97.x. Regards, Barry snip Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] mobile antenna question
Slightly off topic but here goes: Just got a new FT-897D at the hamfest and want to run it along with the Alinco DR-600 in the truck. My question is, how much physical separation must I have between the VHF/UHF antennas to prevent damaging either radio while transmitting on the other? Thanks for your opinions and Happy Thanksgiving! 73, Tony W4ZT Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] radial tire static?
Nitrogen doesn't expand and contract with temperature??? At 11:45 PM 11/17/2004, Butch Kanvick wrote: HI, Everyone The switchover to Nitrogen is sweeping the country, plus they offer free Nitrogen checks. Nitrogen molecules, do not expand when heated and they do not shrink when the temperature changes and the tubeless liner should not leak (lose) nitrogen as the compressed air does seep out of the tubeless liner. The tires lose about 1 pound of air per month. That is why the tire companies recommend that you check the air in your tires once a month and every two weeks during the winter months. I hope this helps. Butch From: Rogers, Ron [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] radial tire static? Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 17:58:58 -0500 Dave: I remember when this was a problem that seemed to surface years ago more with fiberglass belted radial tires than with steel beltedand also a problem with the older bias-ply tires. One thing I heard many years ago from one mechanic that really seemed to understand the problem was to wait for a rainy day with 80-90% humidity in the air, then one by one, release the air from your tires and re-inflate them with this wetter ambient air from your air compressor. If your tires didn't have any leaks then the air inside the tires would remain highly humid and keep the static bled off. But, I also understand that some sports car and luxury car tire purists are listening to the BS being preached from some tire dealers which recommend inflating with a dry gas (Nitrogen) to keep the Oxygen in atmospheric air from attacking the rubber content of the internal tire !! Of course, they want to charge a premium price to inflate your tires. Dry Nitrogen gas would tend to make for a terrible build up of static in a rotating tire. Ron WW8RR -Original Message- From: na6df [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2004 4:12 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] radial tire static? Not repeater related so much, but I thought the great minds here might know... One of my corporate bosses, a ham, is having his bridgestone tires generate static while they are rolling, interfering with AM radio reception. I know somebody used to sell a powder to put in the tires that dissapated the static, but can't find any info on it now. It has to do with some problem with low rolling resistance tires that have low carbon content.. Any ideas? thanks! dave Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] radial tire static?
I believe you'll find the following interesting: Gay-Lussac and Avogadro's Law * At a given temperature, the number of moles of a gas is directly proportional to its volume. * The molar volume of a gas, regardless of its identity, is constant * n/V = constant (at constant T and P) If one has a gas mixture, the partial pressure of each gas is proportional to its number of moles. The total pressure of the mixture is a simple sum of the partial pressures. That is to say simply, there isn't enough difference in air and pure nitrogen to see ANY difference in the expansion and contraction. What you do see is a difference in the density of nitrogen and oxygen. Nitrogen, being more dense, migrates less through other materials. And, nitrogen doesn't cause oxidation of other materials which can eventually lead to failure, but not likely in a common automobile tire. Dry nitrogen is used in large aircraft tires all the time primarily because of the much higher pressures involved and the fact that it will not migrate through the tire material. It also will not support the oxidation of the tire or wheel. For automotive applications, I can't see where it would make a bit of difference to anyone except those SELLING THE IDEA that it will! That is unless you're too lazy to check your tire pressures and are willing to pay someone else large sums of money to take care of that minute task for you. Of course this really isn't a tire static issue ;) 73, Tony W4ZT At 11:45 PM 11/17/2004, Butch Kanvick wrote: HI, Everyone The switchover to Nitrogen is sweeping the country, plus they offer free Nitrogen checks. Nitrogen molecules, do not expand when heated and they do not shrink when the temperature changes and the tubeless liner should not leak (lose) nitrogen as the compressed air does seep out of the tubeless liner. The tires lose about 1 pound of air per month. That is why the tire companies recommend that you check the air in your tires once a month and every two weeks during the winter months. I hope this helps. Butch From: Rogers, Ron [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] radial tire static? Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2004 17:58:58 -0500 Dave: I remember when this was a problem that seemed to surface years ago more with fiberglass belted radial tires than with steel beltedand also a problem with the older bias-ply tires. One thing I heard many years ago from one mechanic that really seemed to understand the problem was to wait for a rainy day with 80-90% humidity in the air, then one by one, release the air from your tires and re-inflate them with this wetter ambient air from your air compressor. If your tires didn't have any leaks then the air inside the tires would remain highly humid and keep the static bled off. But, I also understand that some sports car and luxury car tire purists are listening to the BS being preached from some tire dealers which recommend inflating with a dry gas (Nitrogen) to keep the Oxygen in atmospheric air from attacking the rubber content of the internal tire !! Of course, they want to charge a premium price to inflate your tires. Dry Nitrogen gas would tend to make for a terrible build up of static in a rotating tire. Ron WW8RR -Original Message- From: na6df [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2004 4:12 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] radial tire static? Not repeater related so much, but I thought the great minds here might know... One of my corporate bosses, a ham, is having his bridgestone tires generate static while they are rolling, interfering with AM radio reception. I know somebody used to sell a powder to put in the tires that dissapated the static, but can't find any info on it now. It has to do with some problem with low rolling resistance tires that have low carbon content.. Any ideas? thanks! dave Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] radial tire static?
At 01:11 AM 11/18/2004, Don KA9QJG wrote: That was such a good explanintion about tires , I recall seeing fittings on Large coax at the Police Communications Center and I ask the radio Man what it was for and He just said it was Nitrogen. and I was just a Police Sgt and a Ham and would not understand , Nice Guy Yea Right So what was it really for ? Dry nitrogen at low pressure inside the feed line prevents accumulation of condensation from the moisture in the atmosphere. The smallest leak will result in nitrogen loss instead of moist air invasion. In many locations small nitrogen separation units (from medical suppliers) are used instead of tanks of nitrogen to provide the small amounts of nitrogen needed to maintain the feedline after the initial purge. 73, Tony W4ZT Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: Fw: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish?
Oh what a waste, Neil ;) 73, Tony W4ZT At 11:57 PM 10/25/2004, Neil McKie wrote: I got a 5' one outside in the shed - am thinking about making a bird bath out of it. One problem though, how to keep it from freezing ... Neil Tony King - W4ZT wrote: Use a multiswitch. I'm working on a 48 dish right now for looking at 101 alone ;) Hope to be rid of a LOT of rain fade. 73, Tony W4ZT At 09:00 PM 10/23/2004, you wrote: Tom, a little help here? if I am going to look at sat. A and sat. B with 2 dish's is there a way to hook them into the same input on one receiver? thanks John [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: TGundo 2003 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2004 11:16 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish? I work for a high-end Custom home electronics company and deal with directv all of the time. Heres a few bits you may or may not find intresting. 1. Rain fade. Want to limit this? Put up three 1 meter dishes to look at the birds and have better signal reception. Yes, its an eyesore, but you hardly ever get rain fade!. The dishes are getting smaller and looking at three different positions in the sky, so they give up gain with the dish itself to look at all of these at the same time. They get away with this because the birds themselves are relativly high power. You can use up to a 1 meter dish to look at any one position in the sky and get much better signal, but not any bigger because again, the dish is too focused, At the 101 degree position there are actually three satellites which if I remember right are about 50 miles apart from each other in orbit, but at 24000 miles away thats virtually a single point in the sky from here. However, a dish bigger than 1 meter can single out one of the satellites. For you who have directv and have looked at your signal meter, with a 1 meter dish setup almost all of the transp! onders will read 100 all of the time with clear skys or even light clouds, and you hear toto flying by when rain fade actually knocks the signal out all together. 2. For long runs or commercial installs the standard is RG-11 coax to maintain signal level. There are amplifiers used for this as well. Stacker systems are becoming more common in MDU and high rise buildings. Basically, conventional satellite systems work 900 to 1500 as noted in a previously. The issue is that the reciever has to send a signal to the dish to switch between the a and b lnbs to look at the different birds, they cant both come down the line at the same time because they are both oviously coming down at the same frequency. You cannot just split the signal to multiple recievers because they would battle for control over the dish as channels are changed. Because of that distribution of that to dozens of recievers in a large building starts to get complicated because of the voltage switches needed to facilitate the switching. The Stacker system sends the second dish feed down at 1500- 2 gig, so that all of the signals are on the line at the same time,! a on 900-1500, b on 1500 - 2000. Many of the recievers out there already have tuners built in that can accept the wideband input, just a simple trip into the service menu on the box and turn it on! Now we can amplify and split as needed to feed as many as you want! But RG-11 and 2 gig rated splitters and amps are a must. Thats my two cents on the matter. Tom W9SRV bob [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: russ Date: 2004/10/15 Fri AM 02:00:59 GMT To: Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish? Hey Does any one know what frequency that the coax line coming from the LNB's to the receiver is? On direct TV. 73 Russ, W3CH yes the cable is rg6 Yahoo! Groups Links Do you Yahoo!? Y! Messenger - Communicate in real time. Download now. - Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: * http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: * [EMAIL PROTECTED] * * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --- Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo
Re: Fw: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish?
Use a multiswitch. I'm working on a 48 dish right now for looking at 101 alone ;) Hope to be rid of a LOT of rain fade. 73, Tony W4ZT At 09:00 PM 10/23/2004, you wrote: Tom, a little help here? if I am going to look at sat. A and sat. B with 2 dish's is there a way to hook them into the same input on one receiver? thanks John [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: TGundo 2003 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2004 11:16 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish? I work for a high-end Custom home electronics company and deal with directv all of the time. Heres a few bits you may or may not find intresting. 1. Rain fade. Want to limit this? Put up three 1 meter dishes to look at the birds and have better signal reception. Yes, its an eyesore, but you hardly ever get rain fade!. The dishes are getting smaller and looking at three different positions in the sky, so they give up gain with the dish itself to look at all of these at the same time. They get away with this because the birds themselves are relativly high power. You can use up to a 1 meter dish to look at any one position in the sky and get much better signal, but not any bigger because again, the dish is too focused, At the 101 degree position there are actually three satellites which if I remember right are about 50 miles apart from each other in orbit, but at 24000 miles away thats virtually a single point in the sky from here. However, a dish bigger than 1 meter can single out one of the satellites. For you who have directv and have looked at your signal meter, with a 1 meter dish setup almost all of the transp! onders will read 100 all of the time with clear skys or even light clouds, and you hear toto flying by when rain fade actually knocks the signal out all together. 2. For long runs or commercial installs the standard is RG-11 coax to maintain signal level. There are amplifiers used for this as well. Stacker systems are becoming more common in MDU and high rise buildings. Basically, conventional satellite systems work 900 to 1500 as noted in a previously. The issue is that the reciever has to send a signal to the dish to switch between the a and b lnbs to look at the different birds, they cant both come down the line at the same time because they are both oviously coming down at the same frequency. You cannot just split the signal to multiple recievers because they would battle for control over the dish as channels are changed. Because of that distribution of that to dozens of recievers in a large building starts to get complicated because of the voltage switches needed to facilitate the switching. The Stacker system sends the second dish feed down at 1500- 2 gig, so that all of the signals are on the line at the same time,! a on 900-1500, b on 1500 - 2000. Many of the recievers out there already have tuners built in that can accept the wideband input, just a simple trip into the service menu on the box and turn it on! Now we can amplify and split as needed to feed as many as you want! But RG-11 and 2 gig rated splitters and amps are a must. Thats my two cents on the matter. Tom W9SRV bob [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: russ Date: 2004/10/15 Fri AM 02:00:59 GMT To: Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish? Hey Does any one know what frequency that the coax line coming from the LNB's to the receiver is? On direct TV. 73 Russ, W3CH yes the cable is rg6 Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Do you Yahoo!? Y! Messenger - Communicate in real time. Download now. Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: Fw: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish?
I haven't combined dishes YET... the multiswitch I have is for a single dual LNB but there are 5x8 multiswitches out there that claim 4 LNB plus antenna input for 8 outputs. Do a Google search on directv multiswitch and you'll get thousands of hits, mostly folks selling them. Just be sure that you get one designed for Directv control. Perhaps Tom or one of the other guys will have a suggestion for one they've used. I'd be interested in their ideas too. Right now I am not looking for multiple satellites, rather very solid signal from one, to get rid of as much rain fade as possible. Thanks to the group for tolerating this slightly off topic thread :) 73, Tony W4ZT At 11:00 AM 10/24/2004, Maire Company wrote: What direction would I go to look for one. any model you have the best luck with? thanks - Original Message - From: Tony King - W4ZT To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2004 10:14 PM Subject: Re: Fw: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish? Use a multiswitch. I'm working on a 48 dish right now for looking at 101 alone ;) Hope to be rid of a LOT of rain fade. 73, Tony W4ZT At 09:00 PM 10/23/2004, you wrote: Tom, a little help here? if I am going to look at sat. A and sat. B with 2 dish's is there a way to hook them into the same input on one receiver? thanks John [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: TGundo 2003 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2004 11:16 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish? I work for a high-end Custom home electronics company and deal with directv all of the time. Heres a few bits you may or may not find intresting. 1. Rain fade. Want to limit this? Put up three 1 meter dishes to look at the birds and have better signal reception. Yes, its an eyesore, but you hardly ever get rain fade!. The dishes are getting smaller and looking at three different positions in the sky, so they give up gain with the dish itself to look at all of these at the same time. They get away with this because the birds themselves are relativly high power. You can use up to a 1 meter dish to look at any one position in the sky and get much better signal, but not any bigger because again, the dish is too focused, At the 101 degree position there are actually three satellites which if I remember right are about 50 miles apart from each other in orbit, but at 24000 miles away thats virtually a single point in the sky from here. However, a dish bigger than 1 meter can single out one of the satellites. For you who have directv and have looked at your signal meter, with a 1 meter dish setup almost all of the transp! ond! ers will read 100 all of the time with clear skys or even light clouds, and you hear toto flying by when rain fade actually knocks the signal out all together. 2. For long runs or commercial installs the standard is RG-11 coax to maintain signal level. There are amplifiers used for this as well. Stacker systems are becoming more common in MDU and high rise buildings. Basically, conventional satellite systems work 900 to 1500 as noted in a previously. The issue is that the reciever has to send a signal to the dish to switch between the a and b lnbs to look at the different birds, they cant both come down the line at the same time because they are both oviously coming down at the same frequency. You cannot just split the signal to multiple recievers because they would battle for control over the dish as channels are changed. Because of that distribution of that to dozens of recievers in a large building starts to get complicated because of the voltage switches needed to facilitate the switching. The Stacker system sends the second dish feed down at 1500- 2 gig, so that all of the signals are on the line at the same ! time,! a on 900-1500, b on 1500 - 2000. Many of the recievers out there already have tuners built in that can accept the wideband input, just a simple trip into the service menu on the box and turn it on! Now we can amplify and split as needed to feed as many as you want! But RG-11 and 2 gig rated splitters and amps are a must. Thats my two cents on the matter. Tom W9SRV bob [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: russ Date: 2004/10/15 Fri AM 02:00:59 GMT To: Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Direct TV type dish? Hey Does any one know what frequency that the coax line coming from the LNB's to the receiver is? On direct TV. 73 Russ, W3CH yes the cable is rg6 Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Do you Yahoo!? Y! Messenger - Communicate in real time. Download now. Yahoo! Groups Links To visit
Re: [Repeater-Builder] RE sponse Diamond X500
Coy, that was my first question to you 15 Oct, are you sure it's a Diamond? because all of them I've seen had weep holes next to the connector. 73, Tony W4ZT At 08:49 PM 10/18/2004, you wrote: Well, I contacted Diamond Tech support today about the X500. His response was... Are the weep holes open? To which I responded What Dxxx weep holes? there are NO WEEP HOLES there He said There is supposed to be weep holes in the bottom next to the conector or water will run out the conectorYES, YES it did run out into the conector. He said that if I would return it to him he would evaluate it for manufacturing Defect.I'll bet he would AND send me a bill for the repairs. So there it is folks. If your Diamond doesn't have a weep hole in it, you need to drill it. 73 AC0Y Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Diamond X500
Coy, Best advice from here is to make sure the weep holes in the bottom are open and never plugged with anything including silicone, or spiders. Some of the other manufacturers don't put them in and really have water buildup. I have used several Diamonds and never had water build up inside but of course other problems make it a poor choice for repeater use (go DB224!) 73, Tony W4ZT At 07:03 PM 10/15/2004, you wrote: Hi Gang, Anyone know anything about keeping water out of a Diamond X500 antenna for a repeater use, Or any other suggestions, Short of heaving it off the side of the building. 73 AC0Y Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Diamond X500
Coy, are you sure it's an Diamond X500? All the Diamond antennas I have messed with have weep holes right in the bottom near the connector which is one of their better options over some of the competition. Other knock off antennas don't seem to have them. Double check they aren't covered if they exist at all. Good luck! 73, Tony W4ZT At 10:24 PM 10/15/2004, you wrote: Coy.. I was just joking.. However, if you could get an air connector mounted on the antenna base somewhere and put pressure on it, then you could soap the antenna and look for bubbles. Once you get the antenna sealed, then perhaps you could charge it, or at least let it weep through the air fitting if it was positioned properly to act as a drain. Tight transmission lines are often pressurized with nitrogen. Microwave and cellular lines and antennae are often pressurized using dry air. A dehydrator, a compressor with a dryer, won't run out and need replacement like a nitrogen bottle would, and is more suited to leaky antenna systems. As long as you keep positive pressure on the line... no worrys... concerning water ingress anyway. Seriously, I don't know much about the Diamond X500 (dimensions, etc.), but if you can put an air fitting on it, then you can probably fix it.. Perhaps you can go to the auto parts or the tire store to get an air fitting. They pressurize tires, don't they? (Let me know if you spin balance it.. hi hi!) Steve - Original Message - From: Coy Hilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, October 15, 2004 8:19 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Diamond X500 Steve, Great thinking !! sounds like something a thinker, or engineer would come up with. I would even take this one under advisement. 73 AC0Y --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Steve Grantham [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: As long as we're engineering solutions... (hi hi!..) How about using an air-dielectric cable and pressurizing the Diamond radome with an inter-connecting jumper (hose) using a dehydrator... Positive air pressure, air egress, can prevent water ingress.. 73 HI! Steve - Original Message - From: Brent [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, October 15, 2004 8:02 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Diamond X500 Good one Neil, or use it for a Rain gauge. j/k I have tried to keep moisture out of those antenna and have had no luck, do to them no having a good vent hole at the bottom to release any moisture. So i drilled a little hole near the bottom of the antenna and than installed a small hose like a fishing tank pump hose about 4-5 long and routed it towards the bottom for a drain. it seems to have helped.. Brent - Original Message - From: Neil McKie [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, October 15, 2004 7:54 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Diamond X500 Sure !! Install it inside the building ... Neil Coy Hilton wrote: Hi Gang, Anyone know anything about keeping water out of a Diamond X500 antenna for a repeater use, Or any other suggestions, Short of heaving it off the side of the building. 73 AC0Y Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses at TNWEB LLC] --- [This E-mail scanned for viruses at TNWEB LLC] Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] WACOM WP-641 Duplexer
I recently wondered the same thing about a Phelps Dodge six cavity duplexer here. I found that all six cables including the two to the tee connector were the same length: 8-3/4 inches tip to tip on PL-259 connectors. (http://repeater.w4zt.com/duplexer/) The problem here was noise, lots of it, and anytime one of those cables was moved even slightly the noise became much worse. These original cables were made from PDC's own house branded RG-8 cable and supplied pre-tuned on 146.625 MHz. I decided to replace the cables and assumed the same thing that Eric pointed out below, whatever length works, and the base assumption minimum length to fit worked for me. I replaced the house branded RG-8 with jumpers I made from Andrews FSJ1-50A 1/4 Superflex Heliax. I realized the VF was greater but shorter cables wouldn't reach so I made them the same as original. Details of my superflex to PL-259 connector project are here: http://repeater.w4zt.com/duplexer/superflex/. After completing the superflex mod I also welded up a bracket to hard mount the tee connector. I reassembled the harness and checked the duplexer. It was back to spec and NO NOISE! Move them, bang them, shove them, no effect. Problem solved! In this case, the difference in cable length made no measurable difference in performance but the move to the 100% shielding of the superflex heliax made a huge difference. If you're making cables, I would highly suggest you consider making them from the superflex heliax so you can completely eliminate the leakage and noise problems from your duplexer. 73, Tony W4ZT At 12:33 AM 10/13/2004, you wrote: Neal, The best answer to your question is probably: Whatever works! Both Bill Lieske of EMR and Len Pringle of Telewave have given me pretty much the same answer about jumper lengths for duplexers they manufacture. In most duplexers, the cavities are individually tuned for the desired insertion loss by adjusting the coupling loops or probes, and each cavity is tuned for the desired pass loss and notch depth. This is an iterative process, and eventually the technician has two or three high pass cavities that are identical, and two or three low pass cavities that are identical. At this point the technician selects a test jumper from a rack of pre-made jumpers that are arranged in 1/2 inch (usually) increments. From long experience, he picks one that he knows is close to being the right length. If each cavity had 0.6 dB insertion loss, he looks for a jumper that results in about 1.2 dB loss for the pair. If the loss is more than 1.3 dB, he'll try a shorter or a longer jumper until he finds one that gives the minimum combined loss. If this is a six-cavity duplexer, he'll add the third cavity and repeat the process, looking for about 2.0 dB total loss. If the customer wanted a deeper notch, each cavity's loops might have been set for a different coupling, which means that the optimum jumper cable lengths might not be the same. So, the jumper lengths are not always pre-calculated. Some duplexer manufacturers have just two or three cable harnesses that they use for all duplexers in a particular band, and these are compromises. Sad to say, many commercial installers have no interest in optimizing their installations, because that effort is time-consuming and is therefore costly. Hey, if it works, that's good enough! A purist does not embrace this one-size-fits-all approach! Regarding jumper cables, they should always be double-shielded; RG-214, RG-142, or RG-400 are good choices. Do not use RG-58, RG-8, or RG-213 because those are single-shield cables. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY Neal Newman wrote: BTW the cans are WP-641's Neal Newman wrote: Hey Guys.. I am having a problem with my Wacom Cans... I am just curious what should the length be for the 4 jumpers.. the 2 between the cans and the 2 that meet at the output Tee. the repeater is on 145.230 and what type cable should be used ( I think it's RG-213?) I noticed that one cable is teflon... and 2 seem longer than the other 2.. I tookmMeasurements the jumpers between the cans measure 8.5 and 8.75 the 2 jumpers between the cans and the output tee measure 11.77 and 13.5 (teflon) I know this is not correct... Serves me right for loaning out the cans to friends club for a few years. For some reason I always thought all 4 cables should be about 13 but I may be wrong... Does anyone know the correct length? BTW I measured tip to tip of the pl-259's Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] DB-212 Harness
You can find harness info at: http://www.w4dex.com/kc4fwc/ant.htm 73, Tony W4ZT At 11:41 PM 10/4/2004, you wrote: Does any one know the formula to make a harness for 2 of the db-212 and for 4 of them?Also how far apart?thanks Mike KC8FWD I have a PDF file at work on the DB-212 which gives information on all the 212 configurations. I will submit it as soon as I can. I do know that the cable coming from each dipole is 50 Ohm and where they join in a Y (now 25 Ohm) is a 1/4 wave stub made from 35 Ohm cable to get back to 50 Ohm again. 73, Tony VE3DWI Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Does the R100 need duplexer if using two anetnnas?
At 09:57 AM 10/2/04, Wade - KR7K wrote: As long as you are using 1 antenna system for TX and another antenna system for RX then that will work without a duplexer, if you follow a few guidelines. First, you have to use gain antennas (not 1/4 waves verticals). Unity gain, omni-directional antennas (like 1/4 wave verticals) radiate in all directions equally and you cannot effectively isolate one from the other. Actually, the 1/4 wave ground plane antenna doesn't radiate in all directions equally. Instead it has quite a hole in the pattern directly above the vertical radiator and they work quite when they're stacked one above the other, vertically, using the top antenna for receive and mounting it upside down. Separation should be as much as you can stand but at least 30 feet. They've been used on repeaters for years. I've run several repeaters without a duplexer using 1/4 wave ground planes myself. 73, Tony W4ZT Provided you have 2 antennas with some gain, I would recommend at least 9dBi, you will need enough tower or mast to vertically seperate the antennas by 10 or 15 feet. If you are using yagi type antennas, the same rules apply. Good luck Wade - KR7K - Original Message - From: Dakota Summerhawk [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, October 01, 2004 5:50 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Does the R100 need duplexer if using two anetnnas? I have a UHF R100 and need to know if I need a duplexer if I am going to be using two antennas. Can someone help? Thanks Dakota Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Propogation Prediction
At 09:03 AM 8/30/2004, Joe D wrote: You could use my free path analysis tool, rfProfiler-Light, to predict the path loss in various directions from your transmitter site. http://www.rfsoftware.com/rfpl/downloads.shtml It is not as slick as the expensive programs, but what do you want for free! Joe, N2UF Joe, That's a great little program! THANK YOU! 73, Tony, W4ZT Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Bag Cell Phone rant?
At 05:19 PM 7/26/2004, you wrote: snip Definition of Analog 8 Track Tapes Cassette - dang near Steel Cars How Times have changed Mathew, you forgot one! The HUMAN BEING... we're all analog... so no matter how many digital systems are out there, they all have to come back to analog to interface with US makes me laugh to see how badly they're doing with that. 73, Tony W4ZT Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel repeater antenna question......
You may find this link helpful when looking at the matching harness for these dipoles: http://www.w4dex.com/ant.htm It's appeared here before but will be helpful to see it again. 73, Tony W4ZT At 01:52 AM 4/18/2004, you wrote: --- Chuck Kelsey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Just curious... how did you determine that each element was 50 ohms? I was always of the understanding that the Decibel design, each element was 100 ohms. Also, that the later versions of Decibel arrays used 50 ohm and 35 ohm cable, no 75 ohm stuff. Chuck WB2EDV - Original Message - From: Al Wolfe [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2004 6:20 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel repeater antenna question.. I've worked on a great many of these types of antenna arrays in the last 35+ years and every one had an impedance of 50 ohms at the individual element. An odd multiple of a 1/4 wavelength of 75 ohm coax takes it to 100 ohms. When stacking elements two 100 ohm loads in parallel are 50. Then do it again for four bays, again for eight, etc. In free space their impedance would be higher, but they are designed to work only a few inched from a mast pipe and normally the elements are fairly fat in terms of diameter to length ratio Hence the nominal 50 ohm impedance. Another scheme was to use two bays, make the feed line from each bay a piece of 50 ohm cable, the length being unimportant other than being equal, and tying them together for 25 ohms. Then a special 35 ohm 1/4 wave piece of line brought it back to 50 ohms. Two pieces of 75 ohm cable in parallel would do the same transformation but can be messy to fabricate. YMMV, though, 73, Al K9SI snip Judging from the cable and the lengths listed, each dipole must present a 100 ohm impedence, not 50, assuming the data is correct. snip IF the lengths and types of coax are correctly represented by the web article (and I don't know that for a fact) THEN the impedence would work out to 100 ohms per bay. 50 ohm impedence per bay does not work out correctly, given the info from the web site. http://www.kc5dgc.net/db224.htm Taking their measurements, all coax sections are Q sections, or impedence transformers. A 75 ohm Q section will transform 50 to 100 ohs OR 100 to 50 ohms. A 35 ohm q section will transform 50 ohms to 25 ohms OR 25 ohm to 50 ohms. Now, you can start from either end if you know the impedence. Since we know this antenna is 50 ohms at the feed point, and from there it goes through a 35 ohm Q section, the impedence at the first tee would be 25 ohms. Since 2 cables are in parallel at this tee, each cable (at that point) must represent 50 ohms (2 50 ohm resistors paralleled give 25 ohms). Now you can take either leg at this point, since the top pair and the bottom pair are identical. Going through the 35 ohm Q section transforms our 50 ohms to 25 ohms. This would be at the upper or lower tee. At this tee, to have 25 ohms, we must have a pair of 50 ohm impedences meeting at the tee. Now we go through a 75 ohm Q section, which raises the impedence to 100 ohms, which should be the impedence of each dipole, if we want the thing to match. Going backwards, start at the dipole and assume 100 ohms. The 75 ohm Q section changes this to 50 ohms. Two 50 ohms in parallel is 25 ohms (at the top or bottom tee). The 35 ohm Q section changes this to 50 ohms, again in parallel with the bottom 2 bays which would also be 50 ohms, which gives 25 ohms. The final 35 ohm Q section transforms the 25 ohms to 50 ohms, to feed our coax of any length. Now, if we assume each dipole is 50 ohms, here's what happens. The first 75 ohm Q section will increase the impedence to 100 ohms. 2 100 ohms in parallel will give 50 ohms. The 35 ohm Q section will transform that to 25 ohms. Now we have two 25 ohms in parallel, giving us 12.5 ohms going into the last Q section. By using Q section calculations, this 35 ohm section would transform the impedence to 100 ohms, or a 2 to 1 match for our 50 ohm coaxial line. Although 2 to 1 will work, it's generally not acceptable for repeater use, where we like to see 1.2 to one or so, with 1.5 being an outside margin. IF all the Q sections (except the first) were 75 ohm cable, then you would have 50 ohms at each dipole. This is the usual way of phasing 4 50 ohm antennas, but these antennas must present a different impedence for them to do what they do. Joe __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Part 97 Rules
Or simply go to the Government Printing Office: http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/waisidx_03/47cfr97_03.html 73, Tony W4ZT At 12:08 PM 4/10/2004, Eric Lemmon wrote: For those list members who need a copy of Part 97, but don't want to wade through the CFR Documents site, here are some links to the latest edition (October 1, 2003) of Part 97 Rules: www.SatelliteARC.com, navigate to Downloadable Documents or open this link for the 36-page, 160 k document http://www.satellitearc.com/2003%20Part%2097%20Rules.pdf 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] duplexer tuning
At 06:59 PM 2/11/2004, Danny Allen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does anyone know of someone in the Marietta,Ga area that can reprogram a DB-4072 duplexer? Danny, What frequencies are you moving it from/to? I may be able to help you if you're not in too big of a hurry. (I'm 20 miles South of you) 73, Tony W4ZT Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Astron Meters
At 01:01 PM 1/27/2004, Dave / NØATH wrote: I would certainly be interested to know where you obtained the digital meters - that looks really nice. I wonder if they are illuminated? The meters came from Marlin P Jones, http://www.mpja.com/, and the part number is 12306 ME. Although their web page says they can not monitor their own supply, the ones I received do have a common ground with the input and can so that's what I did for the volt meter. The ammeter had to have an isolated supply. They are not illuminated. They also have internal input selection for 200 mv, 20 v, 200 v and 500 v. The existing hole is just a hair large vertically and about 7/32 shy left and right for a horizontal fit. Quite a nice meter for under ten bucks! Total project cost under $30! 73, Tony W4ZT Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Z-Matcher adjustment
Couldn't agree with you more. The important point is that you can't insert an SWR meter or wattmeter in the line to make adjustments and then take it out. The GE Z-match gives you the directional coupler which gives you a leg up on the adjustment process. Otherwise you are stuck with the max output for min current. Of course that should be our objective anyhow but many don't have an ammeter or voltmeter on the power source (I just replaced stuck plastic meters on one of my Astrons with digital panel meters: http://astron.w4zt.com). 73, Tony W4ZT At 03:16 PM 1/26/2004, you wrote: Tune for best PA efficiency, not maximum output. --- Jeff Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Z-Matcher adjustment
At 11:10 PM 1/26/2004, you wrote: Why can't you take the swr meter out ? The Z-matcher is after the place where the swr meter is. The purpose of the matcher is for minimum swr or reflected power, the same as the internal matcher of the GE repeater. That's true, and if you could achieve a perfect match at the impedance of the wattmeter, that might work, but remember, we're probably not tuning to a 50 ohm match between the PA and the Z-match, rather between the Z-match and the duplexer (if it was aligned at the factory etc). So, I would fear that a change in length of cables between the PA and the Z-match would cause a change in the match and associated problems. I haven't seen the DB Products Z-match but having the directional coupler built in certainly negates the need for placing anything else in line. This is a very interesting thread and I appreciate all the great ideas being shared! 73, Tony W4ZT Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Z-Matcher Component Values
Very nice pictures and good job getting component values for the EMR Z-matcher. One question comes to mind and that is, how are you going to adjust it? Lacking a built in directional coupler it would appear that the only thing you could do would be to adjust for maximum transfer of power as measured on the output of the duplexer. Any thoughts on this subject? 73, Tony W4ZT Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Z-Matcher
Z-match update: I have posted scans of the Mastr II Z-Match documentation including schematic, board layout, parts list, tuning instructions and my pictures: http://w4zt.com/zmatch/ 73, Tony W4ZT Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fan controller
I use this one: http://repeater.w4zt.com/circuits/fanptt.html Modify it as you see fit. I also put a White-Rodgers fixed setting temperature switch (3F01-111 which closes at 110F and opens at 90F), available from Grainger http://grainger.com, in parallel with the relay and in contact with the heat sink slab to keep the fan(s) running if the heat sink is still hot after the time-out period. Merry Christmas, Tony W4ZT At 12:04 AM 12/25/2003, you wrote: I need a simple circuit for a repeater PA fan controller with delay time out. I did a search, but found nothing. Thanks de David Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
