Re: CS>Making CS

[Ode Coyote]

There are a few minor errors in those videos.
https://silverpuppy.com/article/youtube-videos

https://silverpuppy.com/article/instructions-silver-9-6120

ode

On Fri, Mar 13, 2020 at 3:25 AM Deborah Gerard  wrote:

> This is on youtube on how to assemble and use hope it helpsIntroduction
> to Silver9
>
> Introduction to Silver9
>
> A demonstration of the assembly of Silver Puppy Colloidal Silver Generator
>
>
>
> On Friday, March 13, 2020, 12:00:48 AM EDT, Williams <
> gwms...@optonline.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> HELP!!   Is there anyone in the New York City area with a Silver Puppy
> that can help me get mine going  Had it two years and have made only
> made two batches.   Don't even know how I did it.   The problem is the
> level of the water-- too high  too low?But still can't seem to do what
> everyone else does with ease … Make CS in the Silver Puppy.  Gladys
>

Re: CS>Making CS

[Ode Coyote]

You won't hurt the 'puppy' even with a dead short..it is protected every
which a-way.
 WATER quality is the biggest variable.
A TDS meter can be off...especially if tweeked by a water filter maker to
read low.

Submitted by odecoyote  on Tue,
06/30/2015 - 07:48

To test for water contamination: [Using the generator ]

Fill container with fresh water to the proper level ..set everything up
normally.
Start running the batch in "manual" mode. ["Silver 9"  Press the button so
the Yellow LED lights up ]
Observe how bright the Green/Red LED is on top.
 Now sloowly pull the generator/electrode assembly out of the water while
watching the LED.

If that LED DOESN'T start getting dimmer *immediately*...that water
is no good.
If the LED starts dimming when the electrodes are nearly out of the
water...it's WAY no good.
If it doesn't dim at all before the electrodes clear the water and the LED
goes out...that water is WAY WAY no good. [20 uS or over]
[Incidentally, the reverse works to tell you how far along you are.  If the
“CS” looks like “bad water”..the batch is about done ]


Solution:
Get a different jug of water.
Make sure you aren't contaminating good water with water spots, dirty jar
or even finger prints.

The best way to clean a jar is to boil distilled water in it...[fill it /
Nuke it]


 There are many ways to contaminate water and no two jugs of water are
exactly the same regardless of who distilled and bottled it.

[Most of them are fine, but everybody has a bad day now and then]

***If the water is EXTREMELY pure, you may need a pitch dark room to
see that the LED is lit at all.***






** COM-100 Meters will be set to use “As IS” in CS before shipping.

All hand held PWT/TDS/PPM meters work the same way. They actually measure
conductivity not PPM. They are simply not the same thing.

TDS (PPM) meters such as the TDS3 also measure conductivity but then
convert that measurement to an estimated PPM using water industry standard
tables for dissolved salts. [NaCl in this case] (also known as Total
Dissolved Solids or TDS)

Since Ionic/Colloidal Silver is not a mineral salt, it behaves differently
and requires a different technique for reading the TDS meter.

The reading can generally be taken ‘as is’ when checking pure distilled
water or when checking any other water source such as tap or well water.
(ie 200 on the meter = 200 PPM)
However, when checking Colloidal Silver made with pure distilled water the
reading should be doubled. [If it reads 10, it’s actually 20 PPM of
colloidal silver]

Due to range and resolution limitations,  when measuring colloidal silver
with this meter  you should also allow for an error factor of at least +/-
10% . So for example 10 on the TDS meter could be as high as 22 PPM or as
low as 18 PPM  (when doubled).

Meters such as the Hanna PWT, the HM Digital EC3 and COM-100 read out
directly in Microsiemens of Conductivity [uS].
The COM100 also reads out in 3 different scenarios for PPM depending on the
suspected dominant mineral salt content.
Silver water is NOT salt water.

To get an idea of what the PPM is in CS, use 1uS = ~1 PPM.
 Since the conductivity will start dropping as soon as power is off, Use
Meter immediately after shutdown.
Concentrations over the saturation point of Ionic Silver in water [~ 13.3
PPM ] will progressively and variably form more and more non-conductive
“particles” accounting for some of the difference between Faraday Equation
Prediction vs Conductivity Monitoring.
 Beyond around 25 PPM in silver water a meter reading will have
considerable slew towards the low side and a batch may never register more
than 30 uS the day after it’s done even though it may really be 50+ PPM

On Fri, Mar 13, 2020 at 11:31 AM  wrote:

> *Lady I am no expert but I can not imagine not knowing how to work a
> Silver Puppy with a power supply that plugs into the wall and into the
> Silver Puppy. So I am going to assume that your problem is the water. It is
> not really a too high or too low of a water level because only the CS is
> made with what element is in the water. So I am going to use the S.W.A.G.
> system to answer your question. That stands for Scientific Wild Ass Guess.
> I think your problem might be that you forgot to use distilled water. If
> you use regular tap water it has minerals in it and will short out the
> process. May even damage your power supply. Some distilled water is not
> pure enough and still has minerals in it and won’t work. That is why your
> little tester should be put into the water and it should read “0” zero
> before you begin. Hope this helps.*
>
>
>
> *Floyd*
>
>
>
> *From:* Williams 
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 12, 2020 8:41 PM
> *To:* silver-list@eskimo.com
> *Subject:* CS>Making CS
>
>
>
>
>
> HELP!!   Is there anyone in the New York City area with a Silver Puppy
> that can help me get mine going  Had it two years and have made only
> made two batches.   Don't even know how I d

RE: CS>Making CS

[fpetri]

Lady I am no expert but I can not imagine not knowing how to work a Silver 
Puppy with a power supply that plugs into the wall and into the Silver Puppy. 
So I am going to assume that your problem is the water. It is not really a too 
high or too low of a water level because only the CS is made with what element 
is in the water. So I am going to use the S.W.A.G. system to answer your 
question. That stands for Scientific Wild Ass Guess. I think your problem might 
be that you forgot to use distilled water. If you use regular tap water it has 
minerals in it and will short out the process. May even damage your power 
supply. Some distilled water is not pure enough and still has minerals in it 
and won’t work. That is why your little tester should be put into the water and 
it should read “0” zero before you begin. Hope this helps.

 

Floyd

 

From: Williams  
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2020 8:41 PM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: CS>Making CS

 

 

HELP!!   Is there anyone in the New York City area with a Silver Puppy that can 
help me get mine going  Had it two years and have made only made two 
batches.   Don't even know how I did it.   The problem is the level of the 
water-- too high  too low?But still can't seem to do what everyone else 
does with ease … Make CS in the Silver Puppy.  Gladys

Re: CS>Making CS

[Reid Harvey]

Could it be that you're using poor quality distilled water?  With my
SilverPuppy the lights shut off after 2 hours, while with good quality
distilled water this would be around 7 hours, then ~10ppm.  To get 10ppm I
push the button 5 times to get up to the 10ppm.

As Ode says, "...if the light is on you're making it..." I.e., EIS -
electrically isolated silver.  You're also hearing people say not to worry
about the yellow, that it's just some minor impurity.  Maybe try different
distilled water.  Maybe don't expect perfect 10ppm EIS, made without
pushing the button.

On Fri, Mar 13, 2020, 12:00 AM Williams  wrote:

>
> HELP!!   Is there anyone in the New York City area with a Silver Puppy
> that can help me get mine going  Had it two years and have made only
> made two batches.   Don't even know how I did it.   The problem is the
> level of the water-- too high  too low?But still can't seem to do what
> everyone else does with ease … Make CS in the Silver Puppy.  Gladys
>

Re: CS>Making CS

[Deborah Gerard]

 This is on youtube on how to assemble and use hope it helpsIntroduction to 
Silver9

| 
| 
| 
|  |  |

 |

 |
| 
|  | 
Introduction to Silver9

A demonstration of the assembly of Silver Puppy Colloidal Silver Generator
 |

 |

 |




On Friday, March 13, 2020, 12:00:48 AM EDT, Williams 
 wrote:  
 
  



HELP!!   Is there anyone in the New York City area with a Silver Puppy that can 
help me get mine going  Had it two years and have made only made two 
batches.   Don't even know how I did it.   The problem is the level of the 
water-- too high  too low?    But still can't seem to do what everyone else 
does with ease … Make CS in the Silver Puppy.  Gladys
   

Re: CS>making cs go deeper

[ASL raVen]

You may want to try a new chiropractic treatment for neck issues called

*Network Spinal Analysis *

It's an amazing GENTLE (and I mean g e n t l e - with just a fingertip
feather light touching)  treatments---

For its directory go to:

http://www.chiropractorspinalanalysisnetwork.com



RaVen

Re: CS>making cs go deeper

[Lena Guyot]

Seriously consider your ergonomics. Analyze not only how you position your neck 
in the daytime, but how it is supported at night. Even the wrong focal length 
in glasses can cause problems, especially on computers. 
Proper support and gravity can do wonders for neck issues. I've improvised all 
sorts of head/face cradles to keep my neck in line with my spine and to keep my 
head from thrusting too far forward in sleep. It made a tremendous difference. 
Gravity and rest did the rest. You must experiment and become a careful 
observer of your particular situation.
Be well,
Léna
On Dec 14, 2014, at 9:14 PM, Deborah Gerard wrote:

> Thanks Lena...I have awful pain with my lower neck and upper back. I get a 
> lot of relief with valerian root but sure would like to go after to abolish 
> it.
> Debbie
> 
> 
> On Sunday, December 14, 2014 8:50 PM, Lena Guyot  wrote:
> 
> 
> Antiseptic for topical injuries, rashes, muscle aches, bruises. I also use it 
> as a base for adding other things, like arnica, lavender, other E.O.s, that I 
> need for some particular reason. I experiment with it a lot. L
> On Dec 14, 2014, at 8:19 PM, Deborah Gerard wrote:
> 
>> Lena could you comment please on what this mix would be good for?
>> 
>> Thanks much Debbie
>> 
>> On Sunday, December 14, 2014 12:39 PM, Lena Guyot  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> DMSO will make CS go deeper. I make a roll-on with 75%CS, 15%glycerine or 
>> aloe, and added last, 10%DMSO.(Brooks Bradley invented thei 'Brooks' Mix: 
>> good for so many topical things, as well as stuff beneath the skin.
>> Be well,
>> Léna
>> On Dec 14, 2014, at 9:03 AM, mborg...@att.net wrote:
>> 
>>> 
>>> To anyone
>>> Sometime ago someone wrote  how to make cs go deeper.  I think it was 1 
>>> drop of H202 to 4 oz of cs.
>>> Is this ratio right?
>>> Thank you
>>> Mary
>>> On Sat, 12/13/14, Reece Maxey  wrote:
>>> 
>>>  
 
> 
 
  
 Archives: 
  http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
 
 Off-Topic
>>> discussions: 
 List Owner: Mike Devour 
 
 
>>>   
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
>>>  Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
>>> 
>>> Unsubscribe:
>>>  
>>> Archives:
>>>  http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
>>> 
>>> Off-Topic discussions: 
>>> List Owner: Mike Devour 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 

Re: CS>making cs go deeper

[mborgert]

Lena,
Thank you again for such advice
Mary
On Sun, 12/14/14, Lena Guyot  wrote:

 Subject: Re: CS>making cs go deeper
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Date: Sunday, December 14, 2014, 5:44 PM
 
 When I
 want CS to go deeper, I use Marc Fett's (lymestrategies)
 adjunct:Open
 an MSM capsule, drip in CS, close capsule,  (I pierce the
 side with a pin to get the gelatine cap to dissolve faster)
 and then place under tongue for 15-30 min. Keep tongue
 plastered to roof of mouth (tastebuds don't notice it as
 much) and then when it's dissolved, swallow fast and
 chase with juice or water. This delivers CS to the whole
 body without the gut affecting it and is almost as effective
 as IV CS. I've written about this here
 before.Be
 well,Léna
 On Dec 14, 2014, at
 6:57 PM, mborg...@att.net
 wrote:
 
 Lena,
 Thank you for reminding me of this mix, I will
 use it but what about internally was it DMSO or H202 ?-
 Mary---
 On Sun, 12/14/14, Lena Guyot 
 wrote:
 
  Subject: Re:
 CS>making cs go deeper
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com
  Date: Sunday, December 14, 2014, 9:39 AM
 
  DMSO
  will
 make CS go deeper. I make a roll-on with 75%CS,
  15%glycerine or aloe, and added last,
 10%DMSO.(Brooks
  Bradley invented thei
 'Brooks' Mix: good for so many
 
 topical things, as well as stuff beneath the
  skin.Be well,Léna
  On
  Dec 14, 2014, at 9:03 AM,
 mborg...@att.net
  wrote:
 
  To
 anyone
  Sometime ago someone wrote  how to
 make cs go
  deeper.  I think it was 1 drop
 of H202 to 4 oz of cs.
  Is this ratio
 right?
  Thank
  you
 
 Mary
  On Sat, 12/13/14, Reece Maxey 
  wrote:
 
 
  Subject: Re:
  CS>making a generator
   To: "silver-list@eskimo.com"
  
   Date: Saturday, December 13, 2014, 7:07
 PM
 
   Thanks
 
  Neville, I did check water
 before running process. It
  tested
   1 ppm right out of jug.
 
  Thinking about putting a variable
 
  resistor in series with one of the anodes so
  as to
   beable to vary
 voltage to the
  "load".
   Seems as though there was
 
 quite a bit of
   oxidationwith the 24
 volts.
  I believe I read
 
  somewhere that constant
  current Is
 better than
   constant current.
  Still looking into that, any
 
  thoughts?
   I just re
 
  sampled the silver,
  got a 10 ppm reading,
 this after 2 days
 
  after
 combining the3 small batches I made. Is
 
  also light Amber color. I'm still looking
  for advice
   from all
 youfolks, particularly
  treating
   sinusitis.Reece
 
  Sent
   from my iPad
   On Dec
  13,
 
  2014, at 3:45 AM, Neville 
   wrote:
 
 
 
   #yiv2132523477
 #yiv2132523477
  --
 
  .yiv2132523477hmmessage P
   {
   margin:0px;padding:0px;}
 
  #yiv2132523477 body.yiv2132523477hmmessage
   {
 
 
 font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;}
 
  #yiv2132523477 
   Don't
 forget to measure
  the water prior
   to production as you will
 
 need to deduct that reading from
   your
 end
  result to get a better - "ball
 park" -
   figure.
   I
 run mine up to
   around 17-20 odd in a
 given time frame and by
  the time the
   solution stabilises after a
 
 couple of days it usually drops
   around
  4-5ppm as some ions are lost to ion
 clusters
   {particles}, then if I deduct
 the initial
  reading prior to
   production it will drop a
 
 further 1-3ppm dependant on purity
   of
  particular batch of DW I used.  The
 ion/particle ratio
   will obviously change
 during stabilisation
  period but the
   amount of silver content
 
 won't change, unless of course
 
  gravity
  pulls some out of suspension,
 which should not
   happen anyway if
 everything is going according
  to
   plan.
   N.
 
 
  Date: Fri,
 12 Dec 2014 20:30:11
   -0500
  From: jpopel...@gmail.com
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com
  Subject:
  Re: CS>making a
 generator
 
  On
  12/12/2014 05:01
   PM,
 Reece
  Maxey wrote:
  OK,
 been
   reading these
 
 educational postings for a while now,
  and
 just finished my
  first batch of silver;
  about 3
   quarts. I
  will have more
 
   production as better
 
 containers
 
   become
 available.
 
  Setup is:
 
   1. 1quart glass
  pickle jar for "process".
  2.  24 volt DC adapter, cost $ 5.00
   at Tulsa flea
  market
  3.  2
   alligator clips,
 $
  .85 from eBay
 
   4.  1 gallon jug
  for
 storage, $6.95 at flea market
  5.  1 spring
 loaded Speaker clip from
   eBay
  6.  2  six inch pieces .
   silver wire, $
  12.80
  7.  1
 
  "Lubber"
  TDS meter, $ 9.95
 
 
  The meter
 tells me
  the
 
  resultant
  water is 7 ppm, it is clear.
 
  Made the silver in three
 batches of various
   quantity,
  time 1.45 to 2.0
   hours.
  Costs for shipping not
 
  included.
 
 
  Hope this doesn't bore all you experts.
  Thanks for all the
 
 excellent
 
  posts.
 
  I
   also
 picked up a 24
  volt AC adapter. Anyone ever
 tried
   th

Re: CS>making cs go deeper

[Deborah Gerard]

Thanks Lena...I have awful pain with my lower neck and upper back. I get a lot 
of relief with valerian root but sure would like to go after to abolish 
it.Debbie 

 On Sunday, December 14, 2014 8:50 PM, Lena Guyot  
wrote:
   

 Antiseptic for topical injuries, rashes, muscle aches, bruises. I also use it 
as a base for adding other things, like arnica, lavender, other E.O.s, that I 
need for some particular reason. I experiment with it a lot. L
On Dec 14, 2014, at 8:19 PM, Deborah Gerard wrote:

 Lena could you comment please on what this mix would be good for?
Thanks much Debbie

 On Sunday, December 14, 2014 12:39 PM, Lena Guyot  
wrote:
   

 DMSO will make CS go deeper. I make a roll-on with 75%CS, 15%glycerine or 
aloe, and added last, 10%DMSO.(Brooks Bradley invented thei 'Brooks' Mix: good 
for so many topical things, as well as stuff beneath the skin.Be well,Léna
On Dec 14, 2014, at 9:03 AM, mborg...@att.net wrote:


To anyone
Sometime ago someone wrote  how to make cs go deeper.  I think it was 1 drop of 
H202 to 4 oz of cs.
Is this ratio right?
Thank you
Mary
On Sat, 12/13/14, Reece Maxey  wrote:

 
 











  


Archives: 


  http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html





Off-Topic

 discussions: 

List Owner: Mike Devour 







         



--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
  Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org

Unsubscribe:
  
Archives:
  http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html

Off-Topic discussions: 
List Owner: Mike Devour 










   

Re: CS>making cs go deeper

[Lena Guyot]

Antiseptic for topical injuries, rashes, muscle aches, bruises. I also use it 
as a base for adding other things, like arnica, lavender, other E.O.s, that I 
need for some particular reason. I experiment with it a lot. L
On Dec 14, 2014, at 8:19 PM, Deborah Gerard wrote:

> Lena could you comment please on what this mix would be good for?
> 
> Thanks much Debbie
> 
> On Sunday, December 14, 2014 12:39 PM, Lena Guyot  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> DMSO will make CS go deeper. I make a roll-on with 75%CS, 15%glycerine or 
> aloe, and added last, 10%DMSO.(Brooks Bradley invented thei 'Brooks' Mix: 
> good for so many topical things, as well as stuff beneath the skin.
> Be well,
> Léna
> On Dec 14, 2014, at 9:03 AM, mborg...@att.net wrote:
> 
>> 
>> To anyone
>> Sometime ago someone wrote  how to make cs go deeper.  I think it was 1 drop 
>> of H202 to 4 oz of cs.
>> Is this ratio right?
>> Thank you
>> Mary
>> On Sat, 12/13/14, Reece Maxey  wrote:
>> 
>>  
>>> 
 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> Archives: 
>>>  http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
>>> 
>>> Off-Topic
>> discussions: 
>>> List Owner: Mike Devour 
>>> 
>>> 
>>
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
>>  Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
>> 
>> Unsubscribe:
>>  
>> Archives:
>>  http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
>> 
>> Off-Topic discussions: 
>> List Owner: Mike Devour 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

Re: CS>making cs go deeper

[Lena Guyot]

When I want CS to go deeper, I use Marc Fett's (lymestrategies) adjunct:
Open an MSM capsule, drip in CS, close capsule,  (I pierce the side with a pin 
to get the gelatine cap to dissolve faster) and then place under tongue for 
15-30 min. Keep tongue plastered to roof of mouth (tastebuds don't notice it as 
much) and then when it's dissolved, swallow fast and chase with juice or water. 
This delivers CS to the whole body without the gut affecting it and is almost 
as effective as IV CS. I've written about this here before.
Be well,
Léna
On Dec 14, 2014, at 6:57 PM, mborg...@att.net wrote:

> 
> Lena,
> Thank you for reminding me of this mix, I will use it but what about 
> internally was it DMSO or H202 ?-
> Mary---
> On Sun, 12/14/14, Lena Guyot  wrote:
> 
> Subject: Re: CS>making cs go deeper
> To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> Date: Sunday, December 14, 2014, 9:39 AM
> 
> DMSO
> will make CS go deeper. I make a roll-on with 75%CS,
> 15%glycerine or aloe, and added last, 10%DMSO.(Brooks
> Bradley invented thei 'Brooks' Mix: good for so many
> topical things, as well as stuff beneath the
> skin.Be well,Léna
> On
> Dec 14, 2014, at 9:03 AM, mborg...@att.net
> wrote:
> 
> To anyone
> Sometime ago someone wrote  how to make cs go
> deeper.  I think it was 1 drop of H202 to 4 oz of cs.
> Is this ratio right?
> Thank
> you
> Mary
> On Sat, 12/13/14, Reece Maxey 
> wrote:
> 
>  Subject: Re:
> CS>making a generator
>  To: "silver-list@eskimo.com"
> 
>  Date: Saturday, December 13, 2014, 7:07 PM
> 
>  Thanks
> 
> Neville, I did check water before running process. It
> tested
>  1 ppm right out of jug.
>  Thinking about putting a variable
>  resistor in series with one of the anodes so
> as to
>  beable to vary voltage to the
> "load".
>  Seems as though there was
> quite a bit of
>  oxidationwith the 24 volts.
> I believe I read
>  somewhere that constant
> current Is better than
>  constant current.
> Still looking into that, any
>  thoughts?
>  I just re
>  sampled the silver,
> got a 10 ppm reading, this after 2 days
> 
> after combining the3 small batches I made. Is
>  also light Amber color. I'm still looking
> for advice
>  from all youfolks, particularly
> treating
>  sinusitis.Reece
> 
> Sent
>  from my iPad
>  On Dec
> 13,
>  2014, at 3:45 AM, Neville 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
>  #yiv2132523477 #yiv2132523477
> --
>  .yiv2132523477hmmessage P
>  {
>  margin:0px;padding:0px;}
>  #yiv2132523477 body.yiv2132523477hmmessage
>  {
> 
> font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;}
> 
> #yiv2132523477 
>  Don't forget to measure
> the water prior
>  to production as you will
> need to deduct that reading from
>  your end
> result to get a better - "ball park" -
>  figure.
>  I run mine up to
>  around 17-20 odd in a given time frame and by
> the time the
>  solution stabilises after a
> couple of days it usually drops
>  around
> 4-5ppm as some ions are lost to ion clusters
>  {particles}, then if I deduct the initial
> reading prior to
>  production it will drop a
> further 1-3ppm dependant on purity
>  of
> particular batch of DW I used.  The ion/particle ratio
>  will obviously change during stabilisation
> period but the
>  amount of silver content
> won't change, unless of course
>  gravity
> pulls some out of suspension, which should not
>  happen anyway if everything is going according
> to
>  plan.
>  N.
> 
> 
> Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2014 20:30:11
>  -0500
> From: jpopel...@gmail.com
> To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> Subject:
> Re: CS>making a generator
> 
> On
> 12/12/2014 05:01
>  PM, Reece
> Maxey wrote:
> OK, been
>  reading these
> educational postings for a while now,
> and just finished my
> first batch of silver;
> about 3
>  quarts. I
> will have more
> 
>  production as better
> containers
> 
>  become available.
> 
> Setup is:
> 
>  1. 1quart glass
> pickle jar for "process".
> 2.  24 volt DC adapter, cost $ 5.00
>  at Tulsa flea
> market
> 3.  2
>  alligator clips, $
> .85 from eBay
> 
>  4.  1 gallon jug
> for storage, $6.95 at flea market
> 5.  1 spring loaded Speaker clip from
>  eBay
> 6.  2  six inch pieces .
>  silver wire, $
> 12.80
> 7.  1
>  "Lubber"
> TDS meter, $ 9.95
> 
> 
> The meter tells me
> the
>  resultant
> water is 7 ppm, it is clear.
> 
> Made the silver in three batches of various
>  quantity,

Re: CS>making cs go deeper

[Deborah Gerard]

 Lena could you comment please on what this mix would be good for?
Thanks much Debbie

 On Sunday, December 14, 2014 12:39 PM, Lena Guyot  
wrote:
   

 DMSO will make CS go deeper. I make a roll-on with 75%CS, 15%glycerine or 
aloe, and added last, 10%DMSO.(Brooks Bradley invented thei 'Brooks' Mix: good 
for so many topical things, as well as stuff beneath the skin.Be well,Léna
On Dec 14, 2014, at 9:03 AM, mborg...@att.net wrote:


To anyone
Sometime ago someone wrote  how to make cs go deeper.  I think it was 1 drop of 
H202 to 4 oz of cs.
Is this ratio right?
Thank you
Mary
On Sat, 12/13/14, Reece Maxey  wrote:

 
 











  


Archives: 


  http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html





Off-Topic

 discussions: 

List Owner: Mike Devour 







         



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Re: CS>making cs go deeper

[mborgert]

Lena,
Thank you for reminding me of this mix, I will use it but what about internally 
was it DMSO or H202 ?-
Mary---
On Sun, 12/14/14, Lena Guyot  wrote:

 Subject: Re: CS>making cs go deeper
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Date: Sunday, December 14, 2014, 9:39 AM
 
 DMSO
 will make CS go deeper. I make a roll-on with 75%CS,
 15%glycerine or aloe, and added last, 10%DMSO.(Brooks
 Bradley invented thei 'Brooks' Mix: good for so many
 topical things, as well as stuff beneath the
 skin.Be well,Léna
 On
 Dec 14, 2014, at 9:03 AM, mborg...@att.net
 wrote:
 
 To anyone
 Sometime ago someone wrote  how to make cs go
 deeper.  I think it was 1 drop of H202 to 4 oz of cs.
 Is this ratio right?
 Thank
 you
 Mary
 On Sat, 12/13/14, Reece Maxey 
 wrote:
 
  Subject: Re:
 CS>making a generator
  To: "silver-list@eskimo.com"
 
  Date: Saturday, December 13, 2014, 7:07 PM
 
  Thanks
 
 Neville, I did check water before running process. It
 tested
  1 ppm right out of jug.
  Thinking about putting a variable
  resistor in series with one of the anodes so
 as to
  beable to vary voltage to the
 "load".
  Seems as though there was
 quite a bit of
  oxidationwith the 24 volts.
 I believe I read
  somewhere that constant
 current Is better than
  constant current.
 Still looking into that, any
  thoughts?
  I just re
  sampled the silver,
 got a 10 ppm reading, this after 2 days
 
 after combining the3 small batches I made. Is
  also light Amber color. I'm still looking
 for advice
  from all youfolks, particularly
 treating
  sinusitis.Reece
 
 Sent
  from my iPad
  On Dec
 13,
  2014, at 3:45 AM, Neville 
  wrote:
 
 
 
  #yiv2132523477 #yiv2132523477
 --
  .yiv2132523477hmmessage P
  {
  margin:0px;padding:0px;}
  #yiv2132523477 body.yiv2132523477hmmessage
  {
 
 font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;}
 
 #yiv2132523477 
  Don't forget to measure
 the water prior
  to production as you will
 need to deduct that reading from
  your end
 result to get a better - "ball park" -
  figure.
  I run mine up to
  around 17-20 odd in a given time frame and by
 the time the
  solution stabilises after a
 couple of days it usually drops
  around
 4-5ppm as some ions are lost to ion clusters
  {particles}, then if I deduct the initial
 reading prior to
  production it will drop a
 further 1-3ppm dependant on purity
  of
 particular batch of DW I used.  The ion/particle ratio
  will obviously change during stabilisation
 period but the
  amount of silver content
 won't change, unless of course
  gravity
 pulls some out of suspension, which should not
  happen anyway if everything is going according
 to
  plan.
  N.
 
 
 Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2014 20:30:11
  -0500
 From: jpopel...@gmail.com
 To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 Subject:
 Re: CS>making a generator
 
 On
 12/12/2014 05:01
  PM, Reece
 Maxey wrote:
 OK, been
  reading these
 educational postings for a while now,
 and just finished my
 first batch of silver;
 about 3
  quarts. I
 will have more
 
  production as better
 containers
 
  become available.
 
 Setup is:
 
  1. 1quart glass
 pickle jar for "process".
 2.  24 volt DC adapter, cost $ 5.00
  at Tulsa flea
 market
 3.  2
  alligator clips, $
 .85 from eBay
 
  4.  1 gallon jug
 for storage, $6.95 at flea market
 5.  1 spring loaded Speaker clip from
  eBay
 6.  2  six inch pieces .
  silver wire, $
 12.80
 7.  1
  "Lubber"
 TDS meter, $ 9.95
 
 
 The meter tells me
 the
  resultant
 water is 7 ppm, it is clear.
 
 Made the silver in three batches of various
  quantity,
 time 1.45 to 2.0
  hours.
 Costs for shipping not
  included.
 
 
 Hope this doesn't bore all you experts.
 Thanks for all the
 excellent
 
 posts.
 
 I
  also picked up a 24
 volt AC adapter. Anyone ever tried
  this?
 
 I
 started
  out almost exactly
 like this, except that I used a 
 9 volt supply.  I think 24 volt sources
  waste too much 
 silver as oxide and
  silver particles attached to the
 silver 
 electrodes.
 -- 
 Regards,
 
 John
 Popelish
 
 The Silver List is a moderated forum for
  discussing Colloidal Silver.
   Rules
  and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
 
 Unsubscribe:
 
  <mailto:silver-list-requ...@eskimo.com?subject=unsubscribe>
 Archives:
 
   http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
 
 Off-Topic
 
 discussions: <mailto:silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com>
 List Owner: Mike Devour
 <mailto:mdev...@eskimo.com>
 
 
          
 
 
 
 --
 The Silver List is a moderated forum for
 discussing Colloidal Silver.
   Rules and
 Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
 
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 Archives:
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 Off-Topic discussions: <mailto:silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com&g

Re: CS>making cs go deeper

[Lena Guyot]

DMSO will make CS go deeper. I make a roll-on with 75%CS, 15%glycerine or aloe, 
and added last, 10%DMSO.(Brooks Bradley invented thei 'Brooks' Mix: good for so 
many topical things, as well as stuff beneath the skin.
Be well,
Léna
On Dec 14, 2014, at 9:03 AM, mborg...@att.net wrote:

> 
> To anyone
> Sometime ago someone wrote  how to make cs go deeper.  I think it was 1 drop 
> of H202 to 4 oz of cs.
> Is this ratio right?
> Thank you
> Mary
> On Sat, 12/13/14, Reece Maxey  wrote:
> 
> Subject: Re: CS>making a generator
> To: "silver-list@eskimo.com" 
> Date: Saturday, December 13, 2014, 7:07 PM
> 
> Thanks
> Neville, I did check water before running process. It tested
> 1 ppm right out of jug.
> Thinking about putting a variable
> resistor in series with one of the anodes so as to
> beable to vary voltage to the "load".
> Seems as though there was quite a bit of
> oxidationwith the 24 volts. I believe I read
> somewhere that constant current Is better than
> constant current. Still looking into that, any
> thoughts?
> I just re
> sampled the silver, got a 10 ppm reading, this after 2 days
> after combining the3 small batches I made. Is
> also light Amber color. I'm still looking for advice
> from all youfolks, particularly treating
> sinusitis.Reece
> Sent
> from my iPad
> On Dec 13,
> 2014, at 3:45 AM, Neville 
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> #yiv2132523477 #yiv2132523477 --
> .yiv2132523477hmmessage P
> {
> margin:0px;padding:0px;}
> #yiv2132523477 body.yiv2132523477hmmessage
> {
> font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;}
> #yiv2132523477 
> Don't forget to measure the water prior
> to production as you will need to deduct that reading from
> your end result to get a better - "ball park" -
> figure.
> I run mine up to
> around 17-20 odd in a given time frame and by the time the
> solution stabilises after a couple of days it usually drops
> around 4-5ppm as some ions are lost to ion clusters
> {particles}, then if I deduct the initial reading prior to
> production it will drop a further 1-3ppm dependant on purity
> of particular batch of DW I used.  The ion/particle ratio
> will obviously change during stabilisation period but the
> amount of silver content won't change, unless of course
> gravity pulls some out of suspension, which should not
> happen anyway if everything is going according to
> plan.
> N.
> 
> 
>> Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2014 20:30:11
> -0500
>> From: jpopel...@gmail.com
>> To: silver-list@eskimo.com
>> Subject: Re: CS>making a generator
>> 
>> On 12/12/2014 05:01
> PM, Reece Maxey wrote:
>>> OK, been
> reading these educational postings for a while now,
>>> and just finished my
>>> first batch of silver; about 3
> quarts. I will have more
>>> 
> production as better containers
>>> 
> become available.
>>> 
>>> Setup is:
>>> 
> 1. 1quart glass pickle jar for "process".
>>> 2.  24 volt DC adapter, cost $ 5.00
> at Tulsa flea market
>>> 3.  2
> alligator clips, $ .85 from eBay
>>> 
> 4.  1 gallon jug for storage, $6.95 at flea market
>>> 5.  1 spring loaded Speaker clip from
> eBay
>>> 6.  2  six inch pieces .
> silver wire, $ 12.80
>>> 7.  1
> "Lubber" TDS meter, $ 9.95
>> 
>> 
>>> The meter tells me the
> resultant water is 7 ppm, it is clear.
>> 
>> Made the silver in three batches of various
> quantity,
>>> time 1.45 to 2.0
> hours.
>>> Costs for shipping not
> included.
>>> 
>> 
>> Hope this doesn't bore all you experts.
>>> Thanks for all the excellent
> posts.
>>> 
>>> I
> also picked up a 24 volt AC adapter. Anyone ever tried
> this?
>> 
>> I started
> out almost exactly like this, except that I used a 
>> 9 volt supply.  I think 24 volt sources
> waste too much 
>> silver as oxide and
> silver particles attached to the silver 
>> electrodes.
>> -- 
>> Regards,
>> 
>> John Popelish
>> 
>> The Silver List is a moderated forum for
> discussing Colloidal Silver.
>>  Rules
> and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
>> 
>> Unsubscribe:
>>  
>> Archives: 
>>  http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
>> 
>> Off-Topic
> discussions: 
>> List Owner: Mike Devour 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
>  Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
> 
> Unsubscribe:
>  
> Archives:
>  http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
> 
> Off-Topic discussions: 
> List Owner: Mike Devour 
> 
> 

Re: CS>making cs go deeper

[mborgert]

To anyone
Sometime ago someone wrote  how to make cs go deeper.  I think it was 1 drop of 
H202 to 4 oz of cs.
Is this ratio right?
Thank you
Mary
On Sat, 12/13/14, Reece Maxey  wrote:

 Subject: Re: CS>making a generator
 To: "silver-list@eskimo.com" 
 Date: Saturday, December 13, 2014, 7:07 PM
 
 Thanks
 Neville, I did check water before running process. It tested
 1 ppm right out of jug.
 Thinking about putting a variable
 resistor in series with one of the anodes so as to
 beable to vary voltage to the "load".
 Seems as though there was quite a bit of
 oxidationwith the 24 volts. I believe I read
 somewhere that constant current Is better than
 constant current. Still looking into that, any
 thoughts?
 I just re
 sampled the silver, got a 10 ppm reading, this after 2 days
 after combining the3 small batches I made. Is
 also light Amber color. I'm still looking for advice
 from all youfolks, particularly treating
 sinusitis.Reece
 Sent
 from my iPad
 On Dec 13,
 2014, at 3:45 AM, Neville 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 #yiv2132523477 #yiv2132523477 --
 .yiv2132523477hmmessage P
 {
 margin:0px;padding:0px;}
 #yiv2132523477 body.yiv2132523477hmmessage
 {
 font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;}
 #yiv2132523477 
 Don't forget to measure the water prior
 to production as you will need to deduct that reading from
 your end result to get a better - "ball park" -
 figure.
 I run mine up to
 around 17-20 odd in a given time frame and by the time the
 solution stabilises after a couple of days it usually drops
 around 4-5ppm as some ions are lost to ion clusters
 {particles}, then if I deduct the initial reading prior to
 production it will drop a further 1-3ppm dependant on purity
 of particular batch of DW I used.  The ion/particle ratio
 will obviously change during stabilisation period but the
 amount of silver content won't change, unless of course
 gravity pulls some out of suspension, which should not
 happen anyway if everything is going according to
 plan.
 N.
 
 
 > Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2014 20:30:11
 -0500
 > From: jpopel...@gmail.com
 > To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 > Subject: Re: CS>making a generator
 > 
 > On 12/12/2014 05:01
 PM, Reece Maxey wrote:
 > > OK, been
 reading these educational postings for a while now,
 > > and just finished my
 > > first batch of silver; about 3
 quarts. I will have more
 > >
 production as better containers
 > >
 become available.
 > >
 > > Setup is:
 > >
 1. 1quart glass pickle jar for "process".
 > > 2.  24 volt DC adapter, cost $ 5.00
 at Tulsa flea market
 > > 3.  2
 alligator clips, $ .85 from eBay
 > >
 4.  1 gallon jug for storage, $6.95 at flea market
 > > 5.  1 spring loaded Speaker clip from
 eBay
 > > 6.  2  six inch pieces .
 silver wire, $ 12.80
 > > 7.  1
 "Lubber" TDS meter, $ 9.95
 >
 >
 > > The meter tells me the
 resultant water is 7 ppm, it is clear.
 >
 > Made the silver in three batches of various
 quantity,
 > > time 1.45 to 2.0
 hours.
 > > Costs for shipping not
 included.
 > >
 >
 > Hope this doesn't bore all you experts.
 > > Thanks for all the excellent
 posts.
 > >
 > > I
 also picked up a 24 volt AC adapter. Anyone ever tried
 this?
 > 
 > I started
 out almost exactly like this, except that I used a 
 > 9 volt supply.  I think 24 volt sources
 waste too much 
 > silver as oxide and
 silver particles attached to the silver 
 > electrodes.
 > -- 
 > Regards,
 > 
 > John Popelish
 > 
 > The Silver List is a moderated forum for
 discussing Colloidal Silver.
 >   Rules
 and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
 > 
 > Unsubscribe:
 >   
 > Archives: 
 >   http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
 > 
 > Off-Topic
 discussions: 
 > List Owner: Mike Devour 
 > 
 > 
  



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The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
  Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org

Unsubscribe:
  
Archives:
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Off-Topic discussions: 
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Re: CS>making cs go deeper

[mborgert]

On Sat, 12/13/14, Reece Maxey  wrote:

 Subject: Re: CS>making a generator
 To: "silver-list@eskimo.com" 
 Date: Saturday, December 13, 2014, 7:07 PM
 
 Thanks
 Neville, I did check water before running process. It tested
 1 ppm right out of jug.
 Thinking about putting a variable
 resistor in series with one of the anodes so as to
 beable to vary voltage to the "load".
 Seems as though there was quite a bit of
 oxidationwith the 24 volts. I believe I read
 somewhere that constant current Is better than
 constant current. Still looking into that, any
 thoughts?
 I just re
 sampled the silver, got a 10 ppm reading, this after 2 days
 after combining the3 small batches I made. Is
 also light Amber color. I'm still looking for advice
 from all youfolks, particularly treating
 sinusitis.Reece
 Sent
 from my iPad
 On Dec 13,
 2014, at 3:45 AM, Neville 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 #yiv4220592587 #yiv4220592587 --
 .yiv4220592587hmmessage P
 {
 margin:0px;padding:0px;}
 #yiv4220592587 body.yiv4220592587hmmessage
 {
 font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;}
 #yiv4220592587 
 Don't forget to measure the water prior
 to production as you will need to deduct that reading from
 your end result to get a better - "ball park" -
 figure.
 I run mine up to
 around 17-20 odd in a given time frame and by the time the
 solution stabilises after a couple of days it usually drops
 around 4-5ppm as some ions are lost to ion clusters
 {particles}, then if I deduct the initial reading prior to
 production it will drop a further 1-3ppm dependant on purity
 of particular batch of DW I used.  The ion/particle ratio
 will obviously change during stabilisation period but the
 amount of silver content won't change, unless of course
 gravity pulls some out of suspension, which should not
 happen anyway if everything is going according to
 plan.
 N.
 
 
 > Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2014 20:30:11
 -0500
 > From: jpopel...@gmail.com
 > To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 > Subject: Re: CS>making a generator
 > 
 > On 12/12/2014 05:01
 PM, Reece Maxey wrote:
 > > OK, been
 reading these educational postings for a while now,
 > > and just finished my
 > > first batch of silver; about 3
 quarts. I will have more
 > >
 production as better containers
 > >
 become available.
 > >
 > > Setup is:
 > >
 1. 1quart glass pickle jar for "process".
 > > 2.  24 volt DC adapter, cost $ 5.00
 at Tulsa flea market
 > > 3.  2
 alligator clips, $ .85 from eBay
 > >
 4.  1 gallon jug for storage, $6.95 at flea market
 > > 5.  1 spring loaded Speaker clip from
 eBay
 > > 6.  2  six inch pieces .
 silver wire, $ 12.80
 > > 7.  1
 "Lubber" TDS meter, $ 9.95
 >
 >
 > > The meter tells me the
 resultant water is 7 ppm, it is clear.
 >
 > Made the silver in three batches of various
 quantity,
 > > time 1.45 to 2.0
 hours.
 > > Costs for shipping not
 included.
 > >
 >
 > Hope this doesn't bore all you experts.
 > > Thanks for all the excellent
 posts.
 > >
 > > I
 also picked up a 24 volt AC adapter. Anyone ever tried
 this?
 > 
 > I started
 out almost exactly like this, except that I used a 
 > 9 volt supply.  I think 24 volt sources
 waste too much 
 > silver as oxide and
 silver particles attached to the silver 
 > electrodes.
 > -- 
 > Regards,
 > 
 > John Popelish
 > 
 > The Silver List is a moderated forum for
 discussing Colloidal Silver.
 >   Rules
 and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
 > 
 > Unsubscribe:
 >   
 > Archives: 
 >   http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
 > 
 > Off-Topic
 discussions: 
 > List Owner: Mike Devour 
 > 
 > 
  



--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
  Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org

Unsubscribe:
  
Archives:
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Off-Topic discussions: 
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Re: CS>making cs go deeper

[mborgert]

On Sat, 12/13/14, Reece Maxey  wrote:

 Subject: Re: CS>making a generator
 To: "silver-list@eskimo.com" 
 Date: Saturday, December 13, 2014, 7:07 PM
 
 Thanks
 Neville, I did check water before running process. It tested
 1 ppm right out of jug.
 Thinking about putting a variable
 resistor in series with one of the anodes so as to
 beable to vary voltage to the "load".
 Seems as though there was quite a bit of
 oxidationwith the 24 volts. I believe I read
 somewhere that constant current Is better than
 constant current. Still looking into that, any
 thoughts?
 I just re
 sampled the silver, got a 10 ppm reading, this after 2 days
 after combining the3 small batches I made. Is
 also light Amber color. I'm still looking for advice
 from all youfolks, particularly treating
 sinusitis.Reece
 Sent
 from my iPad
 On Dec 13,
 2014, at 3:45 AM, Neville 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 #yiv4220592587 #yiv4220592587 --
 .yiv4220592587hmmessage P
 {
 margin:0px;padding:0px;}
 #yiv4220592587 body.yiv4220592587hmmessage
 {
 font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;}
 #yiv4220592587 
 Don't forget to measure the water prior
 to production as you will need to deduct that reading from
 your end result to get a better - "ball park" -
 figure.
 I run mine up to
 around 17-20 odd in a given time frame and by the time the
 solution stabilises after a couple of days it usually drops
 around 4-5ppm as some ions are lost to ion clusters
 {particles}, then if I deduct the initial reading prior to
 production it will drop a further 1-3ppm dependant on purity
 of particular batch of DW I used.  The ion/particle ratio
 will obviously change during stabilisation period but the
 amount of silver content won't change, unless of course
 gravity pulls some out of suspension, which should not
 happen anyway if everything is going according to
 plan.
 N.
 
 
 > Date: Fri, 12 Dec 2014 20:30:11
 -0500
 > From: jpopel...@gmail.com
 > To: silver-list@eskimo.com
 > Subject: Re: CS>making a generator
 > 
 > On 12/12/2014 05:01
 PM, Reece Maxey wrote:
 > > OK, been
 reading these educational postings for a while now,
 > > and just finished my
 > > first batch of silver; about 3
 quarts. I will have more
 > >
 production as better containers
 > >
 become available.
 > >
 > > Setup is:
 > >
 1. 1quart glass pickle jar for "process".
 > > 2.  24 volt DC adapter, cost $ 5.00
 at Tulsa flea market
 > > 3.  2
 alligator clips, $ .85 from eBay
 > >
 4.  1 gallon jug for storage, $6.95 at flea market
 > > 5.  1 spring loaded Speaker clip from
 eBay
 > > 6.  2  six inch pieces .
 silver wire, $ 12.80
 > > 7.  1
 "Lubber" TDS meter, $ 9.95
 >
 >
 > > The meter tells me the
 resultant water is 7 ppm, it is clear.
 >
 > Made the silver in three batches of various
 quantity,
 > > time 1.45 to 2.0
 hours.
 > > Costs for shipping not
 included.
 > >
 >
 > Hope this doesn't bore all you experts.
 > > Thanks for all the excellent
 posts.
 > >
 > > I
 also picked up a 24 volt AC adapter. Anyone ever tried
 this?
 > 
 > I started
 out almost exactly like this, except that I used a 
 > 9 volt supply.  I think 24 volt sources
 waste too much 
 > silver as oxide and
 silver particles attached to the silver 
 > electrodes.
 > -- 
 > Regards,
 > 
 > John Popelish
 > 
 > The Silver List is a moderated forum for
 discussing Colloidal Silver.
 >   Rules
 and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
 > 
 > Unsubscribe:
 >   
 > Archives: 
 >   http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
 > 
 > Off-Topic
 discussions: 
 > List Owner: Mike Devour 
 > 
 > 
  



--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
  Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org

Unsubscribe:
  
Archives:
  http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html

Off-Topic discussions: 
List Owner: Mike Devour 

Re: CS>Making CS at home

[Dan Nave]

Thanks Marshall, you geek...   ;-))

Jaxi wrote:

"Science geeks please explain it."

Dan


On Wed, Oct 20, 2010 at 9:41 AM, Marshall Dudley  wrote:
>  This is detailed at http://silver-lightning.com/theory.html#HP
>
> Marshall
>
> On 10/19/2010 7:31 PM, jaxi wrote:
>>
>> Yes I use the quart size.  As for the H2O2 I started adding that after
>> reading numerous posts on this list about it.  However, I am the wrong one
>> to explain how it works.  I believe it helps reduce the size of any large
>> particles, also if you have a slight yellow it helps it go clear.  Science
>> geeks please explain it.  You can search the archives too.  Ode says 6 drops
>> are plenty.  Some do more.
>>
>> Jaxi
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 19, 2010 at 3:38 PM, Lisa > <mailto:blacksa...@comcast.net>> wrote:
>>
>>    Jaxi, I too have a Silverpuppy and have been very happy with it.
>>    Do you use a quart mason jar and how many drops of H2O2 do you put
>>    in it and what’s the reason?
>>
>>    Lisa
>>
>>
>>  
>>
>>    *From:* jaxi [mailto:jaxi.sch...@gmail.com
>>    <mailto:jaxi.sch...@gmail.com>]
>>    *Sent:* Tuesday, October 19, 2010 12:31 PM
>>
>>
>>    *To:* silver-list@eskimo.com <mailto:silver-list@eskimo.com>
>>    *Subject:* Re: CS>Making CS at home
>>
>>    Preference and price I think, people speak highly of both.  If you
>>    go to the main list website I believe there are links to both
>>    Silvergen and Silverpuppy web sites or goggle them.  I researched
>>    both (and several others out there) and settled on the silverpuppy
>>    (the white domed one that sits on top of a jar) with the magnetic
>>    stirrer.  I couldn't be happier.  Total plug and play.  Set it up
>>    (auto and switch) and walk away.  When the light goes off it is
>>    done.  I move it to a different jar, date it and put it in my hall
>>    closet upstairs.  Once at least 3 days have passed I add the H2O2
>>    and good to go for me, my partner and the many critters running
>>    around my house (6 of them).  And every so often I make a uber
>>    strong topical batch for spraying on stuff.
>>
>>    I know Ode at silverpuppy offers a money back guarentee.  Free
>>    shipping too as I recall.  And he is active here on the list so if
>>    you have questions as you get started he can answer.
>>
>>    Jaxi
>>
>>
>>    On Tue, Oct 19, 2010 at 10:27 AM, Gene and Joann Porter
>>    mailto:g...@teknett.com>> wrote:
>>
>>    **Thanks so much, Jaxi.  I think this is the way we will go.  What
>>    is the difference between Silver Gen and Silver Puppy?**
>>
>>    **Gene/Joann**
>>
>>        - Original Message -
>>
>>        *From:* jaxi <mailto:jaxi.sch...@gmail.com>
>>
>>        *To:* silver-list@eskimo.com <mailto:silver-list@eskimo.com>
>>
>>        *Sent:* Sunday, October 17, 2010 9:37 AM
>>
>>        *Subject:* Re: CS>Making CS at home
>>
>>        The simplest way to do it is to buy a device from silverpuppy
>>        or silvergen that are plug and play devices.  I set mine up,
>>        walk away, come back later and it's is made and done.  Auto
>>        switching, stirring device and auto off when done.  Worth the
>>        extra money.  I LOVE my silverpuppy.
>>
>>        Jaxi
>>
>>        On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 8:17 AM, Gene and Joann Porter
>>        mailto:g...@teknett.com>> wrote:
>>
>>        Dan,
>>
>>        Thanks so much for your response, the only one we received
>>        regarding our problem.
>>
>>        As far as details are concerned:  we attempted three times to
>>        do this procedure using the instructions written in Warren
>>        Jefferson's book Colloidal Silver Today.  Are you familiar
>>        with this book?
>>
>>        We were not able to see any yellow wisp or cloud on our
>>        water.  We cleaned the rods as instructed, and it seemed to be
>>        looking as though completed, after a couple of hours (the book
>>        said 30 minutes should do it).
>>
>>        We are not chemists and are very disappointed that this is so
>>        complicated.
>>
>>        We want to understand the simplest way possible of doing
>>        this.  Do you have a recipe or formula which you think is the
>>        best?  My husband, Gene,  made his home device from scr

Re: CS>Making CS at home

[jaxi]

Thank you Marshall.  I have this mind that retains big picture stuff butdoes
not always remember the fine details after I have perused them and decided
what I read/heard/studied made sense.  So all I am left with is the larger
concepts.  Makes it hard to adequately explain things to folks when the
finer details are needed.

Now in my field of work I can rattle off enough information to make anyone's
head swim.  But that isn't really of interest here, which is just as well, I
get enough of it AT work.  LOL

Jaxi

On Wed, Oct 20, 2010 at 9:41 AM, Marshall Dudley wrote:

>  This is detailed at http://silver-lightning.com/theory.html#HP
>
> Marshall
>
>
> On 10/19/2010 7:31 PM, jaxi wrote:
>
>> Yes I use the quart size.  As for the H2O2 I started adding that after
>> reading numerous posts on this list about it.  However, I am the wrong one
>> to explain how it works.  I believe it helps reduce the size of any large
>> particles, also if you have a slight yellow it helps it go clear.  Science
>> geeks please explain it.  You can search the archives too.  Ode says 6 drops
>> are plenty.  Some do more.
>>
>> Jaxi
>>
>

Re: CS>Making CS at home

[Marshall Dudley]

 This is detailed at http://silver-lightning.com/theory.html#HP

Marshall

On 10/19/2010 7:31 PM, jaxi wrote:
Yes I use the quart size.  As for the H2O2 I started adding that after 
reading numerous posts on this list about it.  However, I am the wrong 
one to explain how it works.  I believe it helps reduce the size of 
any large particles, also if you have a slight yellow it helps it go 
clear.  Science geeks please explain it.  You can search the archives 
too.  Ode says 6 drops are plenty.  Some do more.


Jaxi

On Tue, Oct 19, 2010 at 3:38 PM, Lisa <mailto:blacksa...@comcast.net>> wrote:


Jaxi, I too have a Silverpuppy and have been very happy with it.
Do you use a quart mason jar and how many drops of H2O2 do you put
in it and what’s the reason?

Lisa



*From:* jaxi [mailto:jaxi.sch...@gmail.com
<mailto:jaxi.sch...@gmail.com>]
*Sent:* Tuesday, October 19, 2010 12:31 PM


*To:* silver-list@eskimo.com <mailto:silver-list@eskimo.com>
    *Subject:* Re: CS>Making CS at home

Preference and price I think, people speak highly of both.  If you
go to the main list website I believe there are links to both
Silvergen and Silverpuppy web sites or goggle them.  I researched
both (and several others out there) and settled on the silverpuppy
(the white domed one that sits on top of a jar) with the magnetic
stirrer.  I couldn't be happier.  Total plug and play.  Set it up
(auto and switch) and walk away.  When the light goes off it is
done.  I move it to a different jar, date it and put it in my hall
closet upstairs.  Once at least 3 days have passed I add the H2O2
and good to go for me, my partner and the many critters running
around my house (6 of them).  And every so often I make a uber
strong topical batch for spraying on stuff.

I know Ode at silverpuppy offers a money back guarentee.  Free
shipping too as I recall.  And he is active here on the list so if
you have questions as you get started he can answer.

Jaxi


On Tue, Oct 19, 2010 at 10:27 AM, Gene and Joann Porter
mailto:g...@teknett.com>> wrote:

**Thanks so much, Jaxi.  I think this is the way we will go.  What
is the difference between Silver Gen and Silver Puppy?**

**Gene/Joann**

- Original Message -

*From:* jaxi <mailto:jaxi.sch...@gmail.com>

*To:* silver-list@eskimo.com <mailto:silver-list@eskimo.com>

*Sent:* Sunday, October 17, 2010 9:37 AM

*Subject:* Re: CS>Making CS at home

The simplest way to do it is to buy a device from silverpuppy
or silvergen that are plug and play devices.  I set mine up,
walk away, come back later and it's is made and done.  Auto
switching, stirring device and auto off when done.  Worth the
extra money.  I LOVE my silverpuppy.

Jaxi

On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 8:17 AM, Gene and Joann Porter
mailto:g...@teknett.com>> wrote:

Dan,

Thanks so much for your response, the only one we received
regarding our problem.

As far as details are concerned:  we attempted three times to
do this procedure using the instructions written in Warren
Jefferson's book Colloidal Silver Today.  Are you familiar
with this book?

We were not able to see any yellow wisp or cloud on our
water.  We cleaned the rods as instructed, and it seemed to be
looking as though completed, after a couple of hours (the book
said 30 minutes should do it).

We are not chemists and are very disappointed that this is so
complicated.

We want to understand the simplest way possible of doing
this.  Do you have a recipe or formula which you think is the
best?  My husband, Gene,  made his home device from scratch
and we are wondering if we made a mistake somehow.  Could you
please help us?  I don't know what details you need from us.

We used distilled water and two silver rods, batteries, etc.

Thank you for your help.

Joann, g...@teknett.com <mailto:g...@teknett.com>





--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
 Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org

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 <mailto:silver-list-requ...@eskimo.com?subject=unsubscribe>
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Re: CS>Making CS at home

[jaxi]

Yes I use the quart size.  As for the H2O2 I started adding that after
reading numerous posts on this list about it.  However, I am the wrong one
to explain how it works.  I believe it helps reduce the size of any large
particles, also if you have a slight yellow it helps it go clear.  Science
geeks please explain it.  You can search the archives too.  Ode says 6 drops
are plenty.  Some do more.

Jaxi

On Tue, Oct 19, 2010 at 3:38 PM, Lisa  wrote:

>  Jaxi, I too have a Silverpuppy and have been very happy with it. Do you
> use a quart mason jar and how many drops of H2O2 do you put in it and what’s
> the reason?
>
>
>
> Lisa
>
>
>  --
>
> *From:* jaxi [mailto:jaxi.sch...@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 19, 2010 12:31 PM
>
> *To:* silver-list@eskimo.com
> *Subject:* Re: CS>Making CS at home
>
>
>
> Preference and price I think, people speak highly of both.  If you go to
> the main list website I believe there are links to both Silvergen and
> Silverpuppy web sites or goggle them.  I researched both (and several others
> out there) and settled on the silverpuppy (the white domed one that sits
> on top of a jar) with the magnetic stirrer.  I couldn't be happier.  Total
> plug and play.  Set it up (auto and switch) and walk away.  When the light
> goes off it is done.  I move it to a different jar, date it and put it in my
> hall closet upstairs.  Once at least 3 days have passed I add the H2O2 and
> good to go for me, my partner and the many critters running around my house
> (6 of them).  And every so often I make a uber strong topical batch for
> spraying on stuff.
>
>
>
> I know Ode at silverpuppy offers a money back guarentee.  Free shipping too
> as I recall.  And he is active here on the list so if you have questions as
> you get started he can answer.
>
>
>
> Jaxi
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 19, 2010 at 10:27 AM, Gene and Joann Porter 
> wrote:
>
> *Thanks so much, Jaxi.  I think this is the way we will go.  What is the
> difference between Silver Gen and Silver Puppy?*
>
> *Gene/Joann*
>
>  - Original Message -
>
> *From:* jaxi 
>
> *To:* silver-list@eskimo.com
>
> *Sent:* Sunday, October 17, 2010 9:37 AM
>
> *Subject:* Re: CS>Making CS at home
>
>
>
> The simplest way to do it is to buy a device from silverpuppy or silvergen
> that are plug and play devices.  I set mine up, walk away, come back later
> and it's is made and done.  Auto switching, stirring device and auto off
> when done.  Worth the extra money.  I LOVE my silverpuppy.
>
>
>
> Jaxi
>
>
>
> On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 8:17 AM, Gene and Joann Porter 
> wrote:
>
> Dan,
>
> Thanks so much for your response, the only one we received regarding our
> problem.
>
> As far as details are concerned:  we attempted three times to do this
> procedure using the instructions written in Warren Jefferson's book
> Colloidal Silver Today.  Are you familiar with this book?
>
> We were not able to see any yellow wisp or cloud on our water.  We cleaned
> the rods as instructed, and it seemed to be looking as though completed,
> after a couple of hours (the book said 30 minutes should do it).
>
> We are not chemists and are very disappointed that this is so complicated.
>
> We want to understand the simplest way possible of doing this.  Do you have
> a recipe or formula which you think is the best?  My husband, Gene,  made
> his home device from scratch and we are wondering if we made a mistake
> somehow.  Could you please help us?  I don't know what details you need from
> us.
>
> We used distilled water and two silver rods, batteries, etc.
>
> Thank you for your help.
>
> Joann, g...@teknett.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

RE: CS>Making CS at home

[Lisa]

Jaxi, I too have a Silverpuppy and have been very happy with it. Do you use
a quart mason jar and how many drops of H2O2 do you put in it and what's the
reason?

 

Lisa

 

  _  

From: jaxi [mailto:jaxi.sch...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 12:31 PM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>Making CS at home

 

Preference and price I think, people speak highly of both.  If you go to the
main list website I believe there are links to both Silvergen and
Silverpuppy web sites or goggle them.  I researched both (and several others
out there) and settled on the silverpuppy (the white domed one that sits on
top of a jar) with the magnetic stirrer.  I couldn't be happier.  Total plug
and play.  Set it up (auto and switch) and walk away.  When the light goes
off it is done.  I move it to a different jar, date it and put it in my hall
closet upstairs.  Once at least 3 days have passed I add the H2O2 and good
to go for me, my partner and the many critters running around my house (6 of
them).  And every so often I make a uber strong topical batch for spraying
on stuff.

 

I know Ode at silverpuppy offers a money back guarentee.  Free shipping too
as I recall.  And he is active here on the list so if you have questions as
you get started he can answer.

 

Jaxi


 

On Tue, Oct 19, 2010 at 10:27 AM, Gene and Joann Porter 
wrote:

Thanks so much, Jaxi.  I think this is the way we will go.  What is the
difference between Silver Gen and Silver Puppy?

Gene/Joann

- Original Message - 

From: jaxi <mailto:jaxi.sch...@gmail.com>  

To: silver-list@eskimo.com 

Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 9:37 AM

Subject: Re: CS>Making CS at home

 

The simplest way to do it is to buy a device from silverpuppy or silvergen
that are plug and play devices.  I set mine up, walk away, come back later
and it's is made and done.  Auto switching, stirring device and auto off
when done.  Worth the extra money.  I LOVE my silverpuppy. 

 

Jaxi

 

On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 8:17 AM, Gene and Joann Porter 
wrote:

Dan,

Thanks so much for your response, the only one we received regarding our
problem.

As far as details are concerned:  we attempted three times to do this
procedure using the instructions written in Warren Jefferson's book
Colloidal Silver Today.  Are you familiar with this book?

We were not able to see any yellow wisp or cloud on our water.  We cleaned
the rods as instructed, and it seemed to be looking as though completed,
after a couple of hours (the book said 30 minutes should do it).

We are not chemists and are very disappointed that this is so complicated.

We want to understand the simplest way possible of doing this.  Do you have
a recipe or formula which you think is the best?  My husband, Gene,  made
his home device from scratch and we are wondering if we made a mistake
somehow.  Could you please help us?  I don't know what details you need from
us.

We used distilled water and two silver rods, batteries, etc.

Thank you for your help.

Joann, g...@teknett.com

 

 

 

 

Re: CS>Making CS at home

[needling around]

I haven't used a silvergen but after reading about the silverpuppy and 
reading about everyone's good experiences I purchased one of them and 
haven't been disappointed!

PT


- Original Message - 
From: "Gene and Joann Porter" 

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: CS>Making CS at home



We may go the easy way now that we know about it.
Which is better, in your opinion, Silver Puppy or Silver Gen?  What is the 
difference in them?

Thank you again for taking the time to write to us.
Gene/Joann
- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Dudley" 

To: 
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: CS>Making CS at home


 It is not difficult. Get a Silvergen or Silver Pupply, put distilled 
water in it, and plug it in.  It is ready when the LED goes on (or off, 
depending on the model).


If you want to go to the trouble of making it yourself, then start with 
20 to 30 volts, and limit current to 1 mA per square inch of anode. 
Improved product is made by stirring, and reversing polarity every 
minute.  When the voltage reaches some target value, it is ready. The 
lower the voltage the higher the ppm.



Marshall

On 10/17/2010 9:17 AM, Gene and Joann Porter wrote:

Dan,
Thanks so much for your response, the only one we received regarding our 
problem.
As far as details are concerned:  we attempted three times to do this 
procedure using the instructions written in Warren Jefferson's book 
Colloidal Silver Today.  Are you familiar with this book?
We were not able to see any yellow wisp or cloud on our water.  We 
cleaned the rods as instructed, and it seemed to be looking as though 
completed, after a couple of hours (the book said 30 minutes should do 
it).
We are not chemists and are very disappointed that this is so 
complicated.
We want to understand the simplest way possible of doing this.  Do you 
have a recipe or formula which you think is the best?  My husband, Gene, 
made his home device from scratch and we are wondering if we made a 
mistake somehow.  Could you please help us?  I don't know what details 
you need from us.

We used distilled water and two silver rods, batteries, etc.
Thank you for your help.
Joann, g...@teknett.com <mailto:g...@teknett.com>




--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
 Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org

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 <mailto:silver-list-requ...@eskimo.com?subject=unsubscribe>
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List Owner: Mike Devour <mailto:mdev...@eskimo.com>

Re: CS>Making CS at home

[Dorothy Fitzpatrick]

I think the Puppy is the simplest (I have one!) and it just is literally, plug 
and play--even I can't go wrong.  It does everything automatically with no 
fuss.  I think the Gen can do bigger amounts though and is a bit more 
expensive.  dee

On 19 Oct 2010, at 16:34, Gene and Joann Porter wrote:

> We may go the easy way now that we know about it.
> Which is better, in your opinion, Silver Puppy or Silver Gen?  What is the 
> difference in them?
> Thank you again for taking the time to write to us.
> Gene/Joann
> - Original Message - From: "Marshall Dudley" 
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 12:02 PM
> Subject: Re: CS>Making CS at home
> 
> 
>> I


--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
  Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org

Unsubscribe:
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List Owner: Mike Devour <mailto:mdev...@eskimo.com>

Re: CS>Making CS at home

[jaxi]

Preference and price I think, people speak highly of both.  If you go to the
main list website I believe there are links to both Silvergen and
Silverpuppy web sites or goggle them.  I researched both (and several others
out there) and settled on the silverpuppy (the white domed one that sits
on top of a jar) with the magnetic stirrer.  I couldn't be happier.  Total
plug and play.  Set it up (auto and switch) and walk away.  When the light
goes off it is done.  I move it to a different jar, date it and put it in my
hall closet upstairs.  Once at least 3 days have passed I add the H2O2 and
good to go for me, my partner and the many critters running around my house
(6 of them).  And every so often I make a uber strong topical batch for
spraying on stuff.

I know Ode at silverpuppy offers a money back guarentee.  Free shipping too
as I recall.  And he is active here on the list so if you have questions as
you get started he can answer.

Jaxi


On Tue, Oct 19, 2010 at 10:27 AM, Gene and Joann Porter wrote:

>  *Thanks so much, Jaxi.  I think this is the way we will go.  What is the
> difference between Silver Gen and Silver Puppy?*
> *Gene/Joann*
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* jaxi 
> *To:* silver-list@eskimo.com
> *Sent:* Sunday, October 17, 2010 9:37 AM
> *Subject:* Re: CS>Making CS at home
>
> The simplest way to do it is to buy a device from silverpuppy or silvergen
> that are plug and play devices.  I set mine up, walk away, come back later
> and it's is made and done.  Auto switching, stirring device and auto off
> when done.  Worth the extra money.  I LOVE my silverpuppy.
>
> Jaxi
>
> On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 8:17 AM, Gene and Joann Porter 
> wrote:
>
>>  Dan,
>> Thanks so much for your response, the only one we received regarding our
>> problem.
>> As far as details are concerned:  we attempted three times to do this
>> procedure using the instructions written in Warren Jefferson's book
>> Colloidal Silver Today.  Are you familiar with this book?
>> We were not able to see any yellow wisp or cloud on our water.  We cleaned
>> the rods as instructed, and it seemed to be looking as though completed,
>> after a couple of hours (the book said 30 minutes should do it).
>> We are not chemists and are very disappointed that this is so complicated.
>> We want to understand the simplest way possible of doing this.  Do you
>> have a recipe or formula which you think is the best?  My husband, Gene,
>>  made his home device from scratch and we are wondering if we made a mistake
>> somehow.  Could you please help us?  I don't know what details you need from
>> us.
>> We used distilled water and two silver rods, batteries, etc.
>> Thank you for your help.
>> Joann, g...@teknett.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>

Re: CS>Making CS at home

[Gene and Joann Porter]

We may go the easy way now that we know about it.
Which is better, in your opinion, Silver Puppy or Silver Gen?  What is the 
difference in them?

Thank you again for taking the time to write to us.
Gene/Joann
- Original Message - 
From: "Marshall Dudley" 

To: 
Sent: Monday, October 18, 2010 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: CS>Making CS at home


 It is not difficult. Get a Silvergen or Silver Pupply, put distilled 
water in it, and plug it in.  It is ready when the LED goes on (or off, 
depending on the model).


If you want to go to the trouble of making it yourself, then start with 20 
to 30 volts, and limit current to 1 mA per square inch of anode.  Improved 
product is made by stirring, and reversing polarity every minute.  When 
the voltage reaches some target value, it is ready. The lower the voltage 
the higher the ppm.



Marshall

On 10/17/2010 9:17 AM, Gene and Joann Porter wrote:

Dan,
Thanks so much for your response, the only one we received regarding our 
problem.
As far as details are concerned:  we attempted three times to do this 
procedure using the instructions written in Warren Jefferson's book 
Colloidal Silver Today.  Are you familiar with this book?
We were not able to see any yellow wisp or cloud on our water.  We 
cleaned the rods as instructed, and it seemed to be looking as though 
completed, after a couple of hours (the book said 30 minutes should do 
it).
We are not chemists and are very disappointed that this is so 
complicated.
We want to understand the simplest way possible of doing this.  Do you 
have a recipe or formula which you think is the best?  My husband, Gene, 
made his home device from scratch and we are wondering if we made a 
mistake somehow.  Could you please help us?  I don't know what details 
you need from us.

We used distilled water and two silver rods, batteries, etc.
Thank you for your help.
Joann, g...@teknett.com <mailto:g...@teknett.com>




--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
 Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org

Unsubscribe:
 <mailto:silver-list-requ...@eskimo.com?subject=unsubscribe>
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List Owner: Mike Devour <mailto:mdev...@eskimo.com>

Re: CS>Making CS at home

[Gene and Joann Porter]

Thanks very much.  This is very helpful information for us.  We will 
continue trying with this as we have spent a long time with purchasing our 
equipment, etc.

May purchase silver puppy in the meantime.
Thank you again for your explanation.
Gene and Joann
- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Nave" 

To: 
Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: CS>Making CS at home


While I am not familiar with Warren Jefferson or his book, I might
suggest that you put the light source behind or to the side and
slightly behind the jar of colloidal silver in order to view any
yellow wisp or cloud coming off the electrodes.  This light should
also not shine directly into your eyes.  Just experiment with it a
bit.

You will not see any "clouds" or "wisps" coming off the electrodes at
the beginning of the process (using distilled water and no additives)
until the amount of silver in the water increases to an amount which
allows the water to be more conductive and allows a large enough
current for you to see the reaction happening.  As this happens, you
may also see some blackening of one silver electrode and some grey
fuzz appearing on the other electrode.

If you are using just a single 9 volt battery, try to join 3 or 4 of
them together in "series" to make 27 or 36 volts.  This will make the
reaction happen faster.  "Series" is similar to saying 'in single
file.'  Connect the - of the first battery to one silver electrode.
Connect the + of the first battery to the - of the second.  Connect
the + of the second battery to the - of the third battery.  Connect
the + of the third battery to the other silver electrode.  This
example will give you 27 volts.

The farther apart your electrodes are, the slower the process will be.
There are some issues with having them too close together, so you may
want to have them about 1 and 1/2 inch apart (1.5 inch apart).

Also, initially, make sure you are not using too much water.  For
getting familiar with the process, I would start with between 1 and 2
cups of water maximum.

That may be of some help.

Dan


On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 8:17 AM, Gene and Joann Porter  
wrote:

Dan,
Thanks so much for your response, the only one we received regarding our
problem.
As far as details are concerned: we attempted three times to do this
procedure using the instructions written in Warren Jefferson's book
Colloidal Silver Today. Are you familiar with this book?
We were not able to see any yellow wisp or cloud on our water. We cleaned
the rods as instructed, and it seemed to be looking as though completed,
after a couple of hours (the book said 30 minutes should do it).
We are not chemists and are very disappointed that this is so complicated.
We want to understand the simplest way possible of doing this. Do you have
a recipe or formula which you think is the best? My husband, Gene, made
his home device from scratch and we are wondering if we made a mistake
somehow. Could you please help us? I don't know what details you need from
us.
We used distilled water and two silver rods, batteries, etc.
Thank you for your help.
Joann, g...@teknett.com






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Re: CS>Making CS at home

[Gene and Joann Porter]

Thanks so much, Jaxi.  I think this is the way we will go.  What is the 
difference between Silver Gen and Silver Puppy?
Gene/Joann
  - Original Message - 
  From: jaxi 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Sent: Sunday, October 17, 2010 9:37 AM
  Subject: Re: CS>Making CS at home


  The simplest way to do it is to buy a device from silverpuppy or silvergen 
that are plug and play devices.  I set mine up, walk away, come back later and 
it's is made and done.  Auto switching, stirring device and auto off when done. 
 Worth the extra money.  I LOVE my silverpuppy.


  Jaxi


  On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 8:17 AM, Gene and Joann Porter  
wrote:

Dan,
Thanks so much for your response, the only one we received regarding our 
problem.
As far as details are concerned:  we attempted three times to do this 
procedure using the instructions written in Warren Jefferson's book Colloidal 
Silver Today.  Are you familiar with this book?
We were not able to see any yellow wisp or cloud on our water.  We cleaned 
the rods as instructed, and it seemed to be looking as though completed, after 
a couple of hours (the book said 30 minutes should do it).
We are not chemists and are very disappointed that this is so complicated.
We want to understand the simplest way possible of doing this.  Do you have 
a recipe or formula which you think is the best?  My husband, Gene,  made his 
home device from scratch and we are wondering if we made a mistake somehow.  
Could you please help us?  I don't know what details you need from us.
We used distilled water and two silver rods, batteries, etc.
Thank you for your help.
Joann, g...@teknett.com

Re: CS>Making CS at home

[Marshall Dudley]

 It is not difficult. Get a Silvergen or Silver Pupply, put distilled 
water in it, and plug it in.  It is ready when the LED goes on (or off, 
depending on the model).


If you want to go to the trouble of making it yourself, then start with 
20 to 30 volts, and limit current to 1 mA per square inch of anode.  
Improved product is made by stirring, and reversing polarity every 
minute.  When the voltage reaches some target value, it is ready. The 
lower the voltage the higher the ppm.



Marshall

On 10/17/2010 9:17 AM, Gene and Joann Porter wrote:

Dan,
Thanks so much for your response, the only one we received regarding 
our problem.
As far as details are concerned:  we attempted three times to do this 
procedure using the instructions written in Warren Jefferson's book 
Colloidal Silver Today.  Are you familiar with this book?
We were not able to see any yellow wisp or cloud on our water.  We 
cleaned the rods as instructed, and it seemed to be looking as though 
completed, after a couple of hours (the book said 30 minutes should do 
it).

We are not chemists and are very disappointed that this is so complicated.
We want to understand the simplest way possible of doing this.  Do you 
have a recipe or formula which you think is the best?  My husband, 
Gene,  made his home device from scratch and we are wondering if we 
made a mistake somehow.  Could you please help us?  I don't know what 
details you need from us.

We used distilled water and two silver rods, batteries, etc.
Thank you for your help.
Joann, g...@teknett.com 




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Re: CS>Making CS at home

[Dan Nave]

While I am not familiar with Warren Jefferson or his book, I might
suggest that you put the light source behind or to the side and
slightly behind the jar of colloidal silver in order to view any
yellow wisp or cloud coming off the electrodes.  This light should
also not shine directly into your eyes.  Just experiment with it a
bit.

You will not see any "clouds" or "wisps" coming off the electrodes at
the beginning of the process (using distilled water and no additives)
until the amount of silver in the water increases to an amount which
allows the water to be more conductive and allows a large enough
current for you to see the reaction happening.  As this happens, you
may also see some blackening of one silver electrode and some grey
fuzz appearing on the other electrode.

If you are using just a single 9 volt battery, try to join 3 or 4 of
them together in "series" to make 27 or 36 volts.  This will make the
reaction happen faster.  "Series" is similar to saying 'in single
file.'  Connect the - of the first battery to one silver electrode.
Connect the + of the first battery to the - of the second.  Connect
the + of the second battery to the - of the third battery.  Connect
the + of the third battery to the other silver electrode.  This
example will give you 27 volts.

The farther apart your electrodes are, the slower the process will be.
 There are some issues with having them too close together, so you may
want to have them about 1 and 1/2 inch apart (1.5 inch apart).

Also, initially, make sure you are not using too much water.  For
getting familiar with the process, I would start with between 1 and 2
cups of water maximum.

That may be of some help.

Dan


On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 8:17 AM, Gene and Joann Porter  wrote:
> Dan,
> Thanks so much for your response, the only one we received regarding our
> problem.
> As far as details are concerned:  we attempted three times to do this
> procedure using the instructions written in Warren Jefferson's book
> Colloidal Silver Today.  Are you familiar with this book?
> We were not able to see any yellow wisp or cloud on our water.  We cleaned
> the rods as instructed, and it seemed to be looking as though completed,
> after a couple of hours (the book said 30 minutes should do it).
> We are not chemists and are very disappointed that this is so complicated.
> We want to understand the simplest way possible of doing this.  Do you have
> a recipe or formula which you think is the best?  My husband, Gene,  made
> his home device from scratch and we are wondering if we made a mistake
> somehow.  Could you please help us?  I don't know what details you need from
> us.
> We used distilled water and two silver rods, batteries, etc.
> Thank you for your help.
> Joann, g...@teknett.com
>
>
>


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Re: CS>Making CS at home

[jaxi]

The simplest way to do it is to buy a device from silverpuppy or silvergen
that are plug and play devices.  I set mine up, walk away, come back later
and it's is made and done.  Auto switching, stirring device and auto off
when done.  Worth the extra money.  I LOVE my silverpuppy.

Jaxi

On Sun, Oct 17, 2010 at 8:17 AM, Gene and Joann Porter wrote:

>  Dan,
> Thanks so much for your response, the only one we received regarding our
> problem.
> As far as details are concerned:  we attempted three times to do this
> procedure using the instructions written in Warren Jefferson's book
> Colloidal Silver Today.  Are you familiar with this book?
> We were not able to see any yellow wisp or cloud on our water.  We cleaned
> the rods as instructed, and it seemed to be looking as though completed,
> after a couple of hours (the book said 30 minutes should do it).
> We are not chemists and are very disappointed that this is so complicated.
> We want to understand the simplest way possible of doing this.  Do you have
> a recipe or formula which you think is the best?  My husband, Gene,  made
> his home device from scratch and we are wondering if we made a mistake
> somehow.  Could you please help us?  I don't know what details you need from
> us.
> We used distilled water and two silver rods, batteries, etc.
> Thank you for your help.
> Joann, g...@teknett.com
>
>
>
>

RE: CS>Making CS

[Ode Coyote]

 It'll take quite a while.

 But try this:

Use a half gallon container with a spigot, drain out what you need and top 
off the water.
 That way you'll only be bringing concentration up that far, not all the 
way every time and the "Ramp up to Current" time, a HUGE variable, will be 
eliminated or greatly reduced.


 The existing generator can be fairly easily modified to handle double the 
electrode area to double the rate. using 14" long electrodes vs 7 inch and 
double the current...but that won't fit in a quart jar and silver is rather 
pricey.


 Just the other day I made up an electrode array using 3 sets of 7" 
electrodes and a modified PocketPuppy to run ittriple the current.. to 
make a gallon in about  6 hours.
 Three  14" electrode sets and 6x the current would be even faster. [It'll 
handle up to 20x the current and 140 inches of $$ electrode $$..but that 
won't fit into a gallon jar]

 The electrode connections is the trickiest part.
Either it's a wire and clip mess, or it's all sealed up and you can't take 
it apart to replace or clean the electrodes...take your pick.  [Workin on 
it as time permits]


Ode


At 11:05 AM 10/6/2009 -0400, you wrote:

Ok thanks...I'll have to throw out what I have as I made 3 batches and put
them all in one glass half gallon jar. With three kids we'll go through it
on a regular basis...that's why I was making some to "stock" up.

I guess I'll try my silver puppy on a half gallon container and see how long
it takes to make that work!

L

-Original Message-
From: Marshall Dudley [mailto:mdud...@king-cart.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 10:53 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: CS>Making CS

Lisa wrote:
> I hate to admit it -- but I'm *totally* confused now.
>
> I made several batches of EIS and stored them in a half gallon container.
> Now being 3 days old it's definitely taken on a metallic type taste. I
used
> DW in most of the batches and forgot to use it one time and wound up using
> our "tap" water which is actually well water. We do have a higher level of
> iron in ours so we use a Brita filter when we drink it.
>
Use the one from well water for adding to your plants, or topically, I
would not drink it.
> Should I be adding a pinch of salt to my water?
No, never.
> And could I stick with my
> well water (after awhile DW does add up in cost -- since I'm not working)!
> And if I use salt...is Himalayan sea salt ok?
>
No, it produces silver salts, not collidal silver ( EIS ).

Marshall
> Thx
>
> Lisa
>
>


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RE: CS>Making CS

[Lisa]

Brilliant thank you -- I'll use this idea going forward!


-Original Message-
From: Marshall Dudley [mailto:mdud...@king-cart.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 12:15 PM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>Making CS

You can use 10 to 20% from a previous batch to seed it, and that will 
really cut the time down.

Marshall

Lisa wrote:
> Ok thanks...I'll have to throw out what I have as I made 3 batches and put
> them all in one glass half gallon jar. With three kids we'll go through it
> on a regular basis...that's why I was making some to "stock" up.
>
> I guess I'll try my silver puppy on a half gallon container and see how
long
> it takes to make that work!
>
> L
>
>   


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Re: CS>Making CS

[Marshall Dudley]

You can use 10 to 20% from a previous batch to seed it, and that will 
really cut the time down.


Marshall

Lisa wrote:

Ok thanks...I'll have to throw out what I have as I made 3 batches and put
them all in one glass half gallon jar. With three kids we'll go through it
on a regular basis...that's why I was making some to "stock" up.

I guess I'll try my silver puppy on a half gallon container and see how long
it takes to make that work!

L

  



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RE: CS>Making CS

[Lisa]

Ok thanks...I'll have to throw out what I have as I made 3 batches and put
them all in one glass half gallon jar. With three kids we'll go through it
on a regular basis...that's why I was making some to "stock" up.

I guess I'll try my silver puppy on a half gallon container and see how long
it takes to make that work!

L

-Original Message-
From: Marshall Dudley [mailto:mdud...@king-cart.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 06, 2009 10:53 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: CS>Making CS

Lisa wrote:
> I hate to admit it -- but I'm *totally* confused now.
>
> I made several batches of EIS and stored them in a half gallon container.
> Now being 3 days old it's definitely taken on a metallic type taste. I
used
> DW in most of the batches and forgot to use it one time and wound up using
> our "tap" water which is actually well water. We do have a higher level of
> iron in ours so we use a Brita filter when we drink it.
>   
Use the one from well water for adding to your plants, or topically, I 
would not drink it.
> Should I be adding a pinch of salt to my water? 
No, never.
> And could I stick with my
> well water (after awhile DW does add up in cost -- since I'm not working)!
> And if I use salt...is Himalayan sea salt ok?
>   
No, it produces silver salts, not collidal silver ( EIS ).

Marshall
> Thx
>
> Lisa
>
>   


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Re: CS>making cs

[Ode Coyote]

  Don't strain it. let everything settle and decant, leaving the junk in 
the bottom to discard or save for topical use.
 The coffee filter may be neutralizing your ions and isn't a very good 
filter anyhow.


Ode


At 05:08 PM 4/27/2009 -0400, you wrote:
When I make a batch of CS I always clean the silver electrodes before 
brewing. However, when the batch is complete there are usually a few 
silver particles or sluggy type substance floating in the water. So, I 
tried straining the cs through a reuseable coffee filter to get these 
particles I can see out. My ppm meter reads around 5 when the batch is 
complete but after I strained it the ppm meter reads 0. Any advice 
please...Thanks



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Re: CS>making cs

[ZZekelink]

 
Thanks Steve, that is what I was referring to.  Forgot to add it in my ?? 
Lois 
I am on a blackberry right now and don't  access to all the previous posts. 
Is this relative to the CS with silver oxide  and problems filtering it 
out? If so I would add 1/4 to 1/2 tsp of 3% H2O2 to a  quart. 
- Steve N 
 

Steve, what ratio would you use  ??   how much H2O2   to how much silver??? 
Thanks,  Lois

**An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221621499x1201450105/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Apr
ilExcScore428NO62)

Re: CS>making cs

[Dee Fitzpatrick]

Can you not set your machine to reverse polarity, because that does away
with the problem altogether - you just don't get sludgy bits.  Dee 

---Original Message---
 
From: Revonda Henderson
Date: 27/04/2009 22:08:24
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: CS>making cs
 
When I make a batch of CS I always clean the silver electrodes before
brewing. However, when the batch is complete there are usually a few silver
particles or sluggy type substance floating in the water. So, I tried
straining the cs through a reuseable coffee filter to get these particles I
can see out. My ppm meter reads around 5 when the batch is complete but
after I strained it the ppm meter reads 0. Any advice please...Thanks
 <>

Re: CS>making cs

[Norton, Steve]

I am on a blackberry right now and don't access to all the previous posts. Is 
this relative to the CS with silver oxide and problems filtering it out? If so 
I would add 1/4 to 1/2 tsp of 3% H2O2 to a quart. 
- Steve N



From: zzekel...@aol.com  
To: silver-list@eskimo.com  
Sent: Mon Apr 27 19:41:35 2009
Subject: Re: CS>making cs 


Steve, what ratio would you use ??   how much H2O2   to how much silver??? 
Thanks, Lois



A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! 
<http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220572846x1201387511/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Aprilfooter427NO62>
 

Re: CS>making cs

[Indi]

Usually, silver of at least 99.9% purity (.999) is recommended.
According to http://www.austincoins.com/peace_silver_dollars.htm ,
the 1923 Silver Dollar is only 90% (.900).

--
indi


On Mon, Apr 27, 2009 at 05:31:22PM -0700, nupa_n...@hotmail.com wrote:
>I have 2 1923 silver dollars, do you think they're pure enough to make
>some CS?
>--- On Mon, 4/27/09, Revonda Henderson  wrote:
> 
>  From: Revonda Henderson 
>  Subject: CS>making cs
>  To: silver-list@eskimo.com
>  Date: Monday, April 27, 2009, 4:08 PM
> 
>  When I make a batch of CS I always clean the silver electrodes before
>  brewing. However, when the batch is complete there are usually a few
>  silver particles or sluggy type substance floating in the water. So, I
>  tried straining the cs through a reuseable coffee filter to get these
>  particles I can see out. My ppm meter reads around 5 when the batch is
>  complete but after I strained it the ppm meter reads 0. Any advice
>  please...Thanks

-- 
indi


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Re: CS>making cs

[ZZekelink]

Steve, what ratio would you use  ??   how much H2O2   to how much silver??? 
Thanks,  Lois
**A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220572846x1201387511/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=
Aprilfooter427NO62)

Re: CS>making cs

[nupa_n...@hotmail.com]

I have 2 1923 silver dollars, do you think they're pure enough to make some CS?
--- On Mon, 4/27/09, Revonda Henderson  wrote:


From: Revonda Henderson 
Subject: CS>making cs
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Date: Monday, April 27, 2009, 4:08 PM






When I make a batch of CS I always clean the silver electrodes before brewing. 
However, when the batch is complete there are usually a few silver particles or 
sluggy type substance floating in the water. So, I tried straining the cs 
through a reuseable coffee filter to get these particles I can see out. My ppm 
meter reads around 5 when the batch is complete but after I strained it the ppm 
meter reads 0. Any advice please...Thanks


  

RE: CS>making cs

[Norton, Steve]

Or one could wait a few days and add some H2O2 to the CS. The silver
oxide will probably go into solution.
 - Steve N 

-Original Message-
From: Clayton Family [mailto:clay...@skypoint.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 2:32 PM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>making cs

sounds like the wrong kind of strainer, since it is catching the ions.

One could decant it into another container after letting it settle
overnight, leaving the bottom stuff behind.

Or a paper filter could be used, maybe rinsing it first with some boiled
distilled water. This works for me, with no decrease in the reading.

kathryn

On Apr 27, 2009, at 4:08 PM, Revonda Henderson wrote:

> When I make a batch of CS I always clean the silver electrodes before 
> brewing. However, when the batch is complete there are usually a few 
> silver particles or sluggy type substance floating in the water. So, I

> tried straining the cs through a reuseable coffee filter to get these 
> particles I can see out. My ppm meter reads around 5 when the batch is

> complete but after I strained it the ppm meter reads 0. Any advice 
> please...Thanks


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Re: CS>making cs

[Clayton Family]

sounds like the wrong kind of strainer, since it is catching the ions.

One could decant it into another container after letting it settle 
overnight, leaving the bottom stuff behind.


Or a paper filter could be used, maybe rinsing it first with some 
boiled distilled water. This works for me, with no decrease in the 
reading.


kathryn

On Apr 27, 2009, at 4:08 PM, Revonda Henderson wrote:

When I make a batch of CS I always clean the silver electrodes before 
brewing. However, when the batch is complete there are usually a few 
silver particles or sluggy type substance floating in the water. So, I 
tried straining the cs through a reuseable coffee filter to get these 
particles I can see out. My ppm meter reads around 5 when the batch is 
complete but after I strained it the ppm meter reads 0. Any advice 
please...Thanks



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RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Dan Nave]

I use a 4 x 6 flat silver electrode and a non-silver cathode, so I can't 
polarity switch.  There does seem to be a lot of buildup on the cathodes either 
because of water quality, or the fact that I may be pushing the amperage a 
bit...

Dan

> -Original Message-
> From: Clayton Family [mailto:clay...@skypoint.com] 
> Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 2:44 PM
> To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> Subject: Re: CS>Making CS/Parkinson
> 
> On Jun 23, 2008, at 9:55 AM, Dan Nave wrote:
> 
> > The thing is, if you have the unit that has polarity reversing, you 
> > don't have to clean the electrodes.   Just pour the newly 
> made CS into 
> > a storage container, add more Distilled Water, and start up again.  
> > What could be simpler?
> >  
> > I personally like the stronger CS that the Silver Puppy makes.  The
> > 5 ppm of the other unit which was referred to  seems like 
> the minimum 
> > that would be acceptable.  Making CS directly in the gallon 
> distilled 
> > water container is a great idea though.
> >  
> > I personally would like to be able to select the final ppm which is 
> > why I made my own unit, it doesn't have polarity switching 
> which is a 
> > pain, but it does make about a gallon of 15 to 20 ppm CS in about 3 
> > hours with the current limit set at 15 ma.
> 
> geez, dude, how big are your electrodes? At one mA pre square 
> inch, that is a lot of silver.  I just hook up my electrodes 
> in the opposite pole each batch. Seems to work for me, I 
> don't clean them either.
> 
> kathryn
> 
> 
> >  
> > Dan
> >> From: Dee [mailto:d...@deetroy.org]
> >> Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 8:00 AM
> >> To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> 
> --
> The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
> 
> Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org
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> 
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> 
> The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...
> 
> List maintainer: Mike Devour 
>
> 
> 

Re: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Clayton Family]

On Jun 23, 2008, at 9:55 AM, Dan Nave wrote:

The thing is, if you have the unit that has polarity reversing, you 
don't have to clean the electrodes.   Just pour the newly made CS into 
a storage container, add more Distilled Water, and start up again.  
What could be simpler?

 
I personally like the stronger CS that the Silver Puppy makes.  The 
5 ppm of the other unit which was referred to  seems like the minimum 
that would be acceptable.  Making CS directly in the gallon distilled 
water container is a great idea though.

 
I personally would like to be able to select the final ppm which is 
why I made my own unit, it doesn't have polarity switching which is a 
pain, but it does make about a gallon of 15 to 20 ppm CS in about 3 
hours with the current limit set at 15 ma.


geez, dude, how big are your electrodes? At one mA pre square inch, 
that is a lot of silver.  I just hook up my electrodes in the opposite 
pole each batch. Seems to work for me, I don't clean them either.


kathryn



 
Dan

From: Dee [mailto:d...@deetroy.org]
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 8:00 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com


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RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Dee]

This is why I have it on this setting.  It doesn't bother me that it takes
longer at all.  Dee 

---Original Message---
 
From: Dan Nave
Date: 23/06/2008 15:56:29
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson
 
The thing is, if you have the unit that has polarity reversing, you don't
have to clean the electrodes.
 
Just pour the newly made CS into a storage container, add more Distilled
Water, and start up again.
What could be simpler?
 

Re: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Marshall Dudley]

Mary Ellen Murphy wrote:


I have been making CS all day and don’t have gallon yet. Do all 
generators take 2 hours to make 2 cups of silver. This is not as easy 
as is sounds. Mary Ellen




*From:* Day Sutton [mailto:day.sut...@gmail.com]
*Sent:* Saturday, June 21, 2008 7:33 PM
*To:* Silver Post
*Subject:* CS>Parkinson's

I have a friend diagnosed with "pre-parkinsons", and another with the 
full blown thing. Massave shakes and all..


I haven't been paying attention to posts about this problem because I 
didn't know anyone with it. Now I seem to remember someone posting 
that drinking a gallon of 5 to 10 ppm EIS daily would cure MS. Is this 
the same root cause??? Has anyone actually tried a gallon of CS daily?


--
Day Sutton
day.sut...@gmail.com 

Depends on the generator. Mine makes 1 1/2 gallons of 20 ppm CS an hour, 
or 3 gallons of 10 ppm per hour.


Marshall


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RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Dan Nave]

The thing is, if you have the unit that has polarity reversing, you
don't have to clean the electrodes.
 
Just pour the newly made CS into a storage container, add more Distilled
Water, and start up again.
What could be simpler?
 
I personally like the stronger CS that the Silver Puppy makes.  The 5
ppm of the other unit which was referred to  seems like the minimum that
would be acceptable.  Making CS directly in the gallon distilled water
container is a great idea though.
 
I personally would like to be able to select the final ppm which is why
I made my own unit, it doesn't have polarity switching which is a pain,
but it does make about a gallon of 15 to 20 ppm CS in about 3 hours with
the current limit set at 15 ma.
 
Dan




From: Dee [mailto:d...@deetroy.org] 
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 8:00 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
    Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson


I forgot to say here, that I set mine to run on reverse polarity, which
does take a lot longer.  This prevents build up on the electrodes I
understand.  I believe it takes about four hours if left to run on
direct current. Dee 
 
---Original Message---
 
From: Dee <mailto:d...@deetroy.org> 
Date: 22/06/2008 13:37:00
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson
 
Hi Mary Ellen, I am answering two of your mails at the same time, as I
read this one last - 
The Silver Puppy comes complete with everything you need (except the
canning jar)  I got the #2 kit because it has the little magnet stirrer
which you just pop in the jar.  It is as easy as falling off a log to be
honest, and this comes from someone who is mechanically challenged to
say the least!  It *does* take quite a time to make, (it took me 8 hours
to  make one quart) but this was probably because my water was *very*
pure (double distlled.)  if you put in the next batch about a quarter
out of the first batch, however, this will knock two hours off the time.
I don't find the time it takes a problem at all, because if you need
more - quickly, then you just start the whole thing up again and that
way, you would have quite a bit in a few days.  As it doesn't matter how
long it is stored, then it shouldn't matter how long it takes to make.
I think it is a brilliant little unit and he is so clever to have made
it all fit into such a small space compared to others, with so few
working parts to have to bother about.  Dee 
 

Re: CS>Making CS/ Another Automatic Unit

[Day Sutton]

SilverPuppy costs 130.00 and has lasted me the last three years...it shuts
off aotomatically on smaller amounts. I have to watch it with the gallon
jar.  sometimes  it taker overnight..

On Sun, Jun 22, 2008 at 2:35 PM, seth sato  wrote:

>   Hi Wayne:
>
> Thanks for your post, I appreciate your comments.  For me I use 2 of the 1
> gallon units because I use alot of C's.  Although the unit shuts off after
> 5 ppm you can depress the automatic button with tape or a rubber band and
> make stronger C's if you wish.  I usually make about 7 or 8 ppm but have
> made up to15ppm with this unit.
> I am sure there are other good units on the market and everyone on the
> group makes high quality C's.  However  if you want to make a gallon or 5
> gallons at a time, these units I can attest to their quality.  In addition I
> have learned a great deal about C's from Fred (the inventor) although he can
> get a tad technical at times his information is beneficial.
>
> As a matter of course I would like to know what is the favorite unit for
> people on this group.  Has anyone ever made a list of all the units out
> there and their pros and cons?  I am always on the lookout for a better unit
> and I am sure others would like a side by side comparison.  Maybe someone
> has done this so if you know of such a list please let me know.
>
> Thanks
> Seth
>
> - Original Message 
> From: Wayne Fugitt 
> To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 10:50:12 PM
> Subject: CS>Making CS/ Another Automatic Unit
>
> Morning Seth,
>
> At 12:07 AM 6/22/2008, you wrote:
> >I see people recommending what I think are inferior units compared to this
>
> >one and I wish to make sure everyone knows this option exist.  I look
> >forward to any feedback anyone has to offer.
>
>   Not sure my ideas are feedback.  Maybe so.
>
>   Nice web page, no beat around the bush.
>
>   The circuit board looks good.
>
>   Was glad to see the ppm listed, no exaggeration there.
>
>   I tried to look at everything with a fair and open mind.
>
>   There could be times that one gallon of CS would be worth the total
> price.
>
> Of course your statements, coming from a long term user count a lot.
>
> And the people need all the choices to make their decision.
>
> The only little statement, I have a problem with is the reference to a
> ppm Meter.
>
> No ppm meter exists in the world today.  Even the industry admits this,
>
> if you read all about meters and how they describe them.
>
> I do not favor the automatic generators for my use.  I use a two bit
> generator and do not care about the ppm.  My CS has proven itself many
> times over to me and many others.
>
>   I would guess my CS is about 5, to 8 ppm.
>
>   And I have to agree, many need an automatic unit.  It is easier and they
> do not have to work, think, or sweat to make a batch of CS.  Some want the
> easy way out.
>
>   I consider your post important, and if I was considering an automatic
> unit, that one would be in the running.
>
>   Wayne
>
> 
>
>
> --
> The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
>
> Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org
>
> To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
>
> Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com
>
> The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...
>
> List maintainer: Mike Devour 
>
>
>
>


-- 
Day Sutton
day.sut...@gmail.com

RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Dee]

So sorry Many Ellen, I did not mean to confuse you.  I don't know exactly
what the term means either (it is in the blurb that Ode provides) I just
know that the light goes from red to green and back again, and it says that
this helps prevent build up which could be the little bits you are getting
on the bottom.  There are two little switches on the top and one says Auto
and the other says SWAP which is what I have it set on.  This method does
take longer though.  Dee PS I make a quart at a time.

---Original Message---
 
From: Mary Ellen Murphy
Date: 22/06/2008 17:12:34
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson
 
I am sorry Dee, but what does that mean…reverse polarity
I am so depressed from all this I can hardly stand it.  
Mary Ellen
 

Re: CS>Making CS/ Another Automatic Unit

[seth sato]

Hi Wayne:

Thanks for your post, I appreciate your comments.  For me I use 2 of the 1
gallon units because I use alot of C's.  Although the unit shuts off after 5 
ppm you can depress the
automatic button with tape or a rubber band and make stronger C's if you
wish.  I usually make about 7 or 8 ppm but have made up to15ppm with this
unit.  
I am sure there are other good units on the market and everyone on the group
makes high quality C's.  However  if you want to make a gallon or 5
gallons at a time, these units I can attest to their quality.  In addition
I have learned a great deal about C's from Fred (the inventor) although he can
get a tad technical at times his information is beneficial.

As a matter of course I would like to know what is the favorite unit for people
on this group.  Has anyone ever made a list of all the units out there and
their pros and cons?  I am always on the lookout for a better unit and I
am sure others would like a side by side comparison.  Maybe someone has
done this so if you know of such a list please let me know.

Thanks
Seth


- Original Message 
From: Wayne Fugitt 
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 10:50:12 PM
Subject: CS>Making CS/ Another Automatic Unit

Morning Seth,

At 12:07 AM 6/22/2008, you wrote:
>I see people recommending what I think are inferior units compared to this 
>one and I wish to make sure everyone knows this option exist.  I look 
>forward to any feedback anyone has to offer.

   Not sure my ideas are feedback.  Maybe so.

   Nice web page, no beat around the bush.

   The circuit board looks good.

   Was glad to see the ppm listed, no exaggeration there.

   I tried to look at everything with a fair and open mind.

   There could be times that one gallon of CS would be worth the total price.

Of course your statements, coming from a long term user count a lot.

And the people need all the choices to make their decision.

The only little statement, I have a problem with is the reference to a 
ppm Meter.

No ppm meter exists in the world today.  Even the industry admits this, 
if you read all about meters and how they describe them.

I do not favor the automatic generators for my use.  I use a two bit 
generator and do not care about the ppm.  My CS has proven itself many 
times over to me and many others.

   I would guess my CS is about 5, to 8 ppm.

   And I have to agree, many need an automatic unit.  It is easier and they 
do not have to work, think, or sweat to make a batch of CS.  Some want the 
easy way out.

  I consider your post important, and if I was considering an automatic 
unit, that one would be in the running.

   Wayne




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Re: CS>Making CS-seeding

[Clayton Family]

Seeding means to start with some cs you have made already, from a 
previous batch. If you put in 1/4 the jar with some from a previous 
batch, it will speed things up.  --kathryn


On Jun 22, 2008, at 11:14 AM, Mary Ellen Murphy wrote:



What do you mean by a little seeding.  I have spent my entire weekend 
making this stuff.  I am not familiar with all the terms you guy are 
using. If I survive this weekend it will be a miracle.

 
 
From: Hanneke [mailto:bloss...@aapt.net.au]
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 8:09 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>Making CS/Parkinson
 
those objections are individual of course..

 In all the years I have had the silver puppy, have 2 of them, it has 
never taken me anywhere near  8 hours.
 The temperature of water is a good starting point,  the colder the 
longer it takes

 and perhaps a little seeding, speeds things up too.

 Hanneke



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RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[marmar845]

Mary Ellen -- calm down.  You are making a mountain out of a molehill.  CS is not a fast process.  You can force it to be fast, and you will create silver sludge instead of Colloidal Silver.  It takes time for the small particles of silver to saturate the water, which is probably the definition of CS.  *Seeding* is what someone described earlier to you, whereby you take perhaps 1/2 cup of a previous batch of CS and add it to the distilled water that you use for your next batch.  Hang in there -- your CS will come (even without seeding) -- and you will survive this weekend!!  And you will become knowledgeable too!!  :-)  MA 
 
 
-- Original message from "Mary Ellen Murphy" : -- 








What do you mean by a little seeding.  I have spent my entire weekend making this stuff.  I am not familiar with all the terms you guy are using. If I survive this weekend it will be a miracle.
 
 
 




From: Hanneke [mailto:bloss...@aapt.net.au] Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 8:09 AMTo: silver-list@eskimo.comSubject: Re: CS>Making CS/Parkinson
 
those objections are individual of course..In all the years I have had the silver puppy, have 2 of them, it has never taken me anywhere near  8 hours.The temperature of water is a good starting point,  the colder the longer it takesand perhaps a little seeding, speeds things up too.HannekeAt 10:23 PM 22/06/2008, you wrote:
That was my objection to the silver puppy...it takes so long.  The generator I have now takes 3 hours to make one quart.  I could have gotten a generator that makes a gallon but a quart is enough.  Faith G.  
- Original Message - 
From: Dee 
To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 8:36 AM
Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson
Hi Mary Ellen, I am answering two of your mails at the same time, as I read this one last - 
The Silver Puppy comes complete with everything you need (except the canning jar)  I got the #2 kit because it has the little magnet stirrer which you just pop in the jar.  It is as easy as falling off a log to be honest, and this comes from someone who is mechanically challenged to say the least!  It *does* take quite a time to make, (it took me 8 hours to  make one quart) but this was probably because my water was *very* pure (double distlled.)  if you put in the next batch about a quarter out of the first batch, however, this will knock two hours off the time.  I don't find the time it takes a problem at all, because if you need more - quickly, then you just start the whole thing up again and that way, you would have quite a bit in a few days.  As it doesn't matter how long it is stored, then it shouldn't matter how long it takes to make.  I think it is a brilliant little unit and he is so clever to have made it all fit into such a small space compared to others, with so few working parts to have to bother about.  Dee 
 
---Original Message---
 
From: Mary Ellen Murphy
Date: 22/06/2008 03:34:12
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson
 
I am borrowing one from a friend called the silver pulsar.  I was also
wondering how much to take to start.  I am trying to figure out what I need
to get with the silver puppy.  I understand that you need some kind of
stirrer with it.  I don't know whether to get the #1 kit or #2.
 
Thanks
Mary Ellen
 
No virus found in this incoming message.Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.1/1512 - Release Date: 21/06/2008 9:27 AM-- The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down... List maintainer: Mike Devour 

RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Mary Ellen Murphy]

What do you mean by a little seeding.  I have spent my entire weekend making
this stuff.  I am not familiar with all the terms you guy are using. If I
survive this weekend it will be a miracle.

 

 

 

  _  

From: Hanneke [mailto:bloss...@aapt.net.au] 
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 8:09 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

 

those objections are individual of course..

In all the years I have had the silver puppy, have 2 of them, it has never
taken me anywhere near  8 hours.
The temperature of water is a good starting point,  the colder the longer it
takes
and perhaps a little seeding, speeds things up too.

Hanneke

At 10:23 PM 22/06/2008, you wrote:



That was my objection to the silver puppy...it takes so long.  The generator
I have now takes 3 hours to make one quart.  I could have gotten a generator
that makes a gallon but a quart is enough.  Faith G.
 
 

- Original Message - 

From: Dee  <mailto:d...@deetroy.org> 

To: silver-list@eskimo.com 

Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 8:36 AM

Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

Hi Mary Ellen, I am answering two of your mails at the same time, as I read
this one last - 

The Silver Puppy comes complete with everything you need (except the canning
jar)  I got the #2 kit because it has the little magnet stirrer which you
just pop in the jar.  It is as easy as falling off a log to be honest, and
this comes from someone who is mechanically challenged to say the least!  It
*does* take quite a time to make, (it took me 8 hours to  make one quart)
but this was probably because my water was *very* pure (double distlled.)
if you put in the next batch about a quarter out of the first batch,
however, this will knock two hours off the time.  I don't find the time it
takes a problem at all, because if you need more - quickly, then you just
start the whole thing up again and that way, you would have quite a bit in a
few days.  As it doesn't matter how long it is stored, then it shouldn't
matter how long it takes to make.  I think it is a brilliant little unit and
he is so clever to have made it all fit into such a small space compared to
others, with so few working parts to have to bother about.  Dee 

 

---Original Message---

 

From: Mary <mailto:maryelle...@bellsouth.net>  Ellen Murphy

Date: 22/06/2008 03:34:12

To: silver-list@eskimo.com

Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

 

I am borrowing one from a friend called the silver pulsar.  I was also

wondering how much to take to start.  I am trying to figure out what I need

to get with the silver puppy.  I understand that you need some kind of

stirrer with it.  I don't know whether to get the #1 kit or #2.

 

Thanks

Mary Ellen

 

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.1/1512 - Release Date: 21/06/2008
9:27 AM

-- The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org To post,
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RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Mary Ellen Murphy]

I am sorry Dee, but what does that mean.reverse polarity

I am so depressed from all this I can hardly stand it.  

Mary Ellen

 

  _  

From: Dee [mailto:d...@deetroy.org] 
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 8:00 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

 


I forgot to say here, that I set mine to run on reverse polarity, which does
take a lot longer.  This prevents build up on the electrodes I understand.
I believe it takes about four hours if left to run on direct current. Dee 

 

---Original Message---

 

From: Dee <mailto:d...@deetroy.org> 

Date: 22/06/2008 13:37:00

To: silver-list@eskimo.com

Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

 

Hi Mary Ellen, I am answering two of your mails at the same time, as I read
this one last - 

The Silver Puppy comes complete with everything you need (except the canning
jar)  I got the #2 kit because it has the little magnet stirrer which you
just pop in the jar.  It is as easy as falling off a log to be honest, and
this comes from someone who is mechanically challenged to say the least!  It
*does* take quite a time to make, (it took me 8 hours to  make one quart)
but this was probably because my water was *very* pure (double distlled.)
if you put in the next batch about a quarter out of the first batch,
however, this will knock two hours off the time.  I don't find the time it
takes a problem at all, because if you need more - quickly, then you just
start the whole thing up again and that way, you would have quite a bit in a
few days.  As it doesn't matter how long it is stored, then it shouldn't
matter how long it takes to make.  I think it is a brilliant little unit and
he is so clever to have made it all fit into such a small space compared to
others, with so few working parts to have to bother about.  Dee 

 



 

 

 

Re: CS>Making CS/

[M1marine]

_http://www.colloidalsilver.cc/home.htm_ 
(http://www.colloidalsilver.cc/home.htm)
_http://www.atlantisnatural.com/Natural-Path-Silver-Wings-Dietary-Mineral/A/B000BT4CFE.htm_
 
(http://www.atlantisnatural.com/Natural-Path-Silver-Wings-Dietary-Mineral/A/B000BT4CFE.htm)

 _http://www.colloidal-silver-blog.com/2007/11/_ 
(http://www.colloidal-silver-blog.com/2007/11/) 



**Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.  
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut000507)

Re: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Ode Coyote]

  It either takes a lot of time, or a lot of silver to do it right.
2 hours for 2 cups actually sounds a bit short unless you have 1 or 2  foot 
long electrodes.


I can be done faster with very little silver, but making "mud" becomes more 
likely at such high currents.


Ode


At 09:00 PM 6/21/2008 -0500, you wrote:

I have been making CS all day and dont have  gallon yet.  Do all 
generators take 2 hours to make 2 cups of silver.  This is not as easy as 
is sounds.  Mary Ellen




--
From: Day Sutton [mailto:day.sut...@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 7:33 PM
To: Silver Post
Subject: CS>Parkinson's



I have a friend diagnosed with "pre-parkinsons", and another with the full 
blown thing.  Massave shakes and all..


I haven't been paying attention to posts about this problem because I 
didn't know anyone with it.  Now I seem to remember someone posting that 
drinking a gallon of 5 to 10 ppm EIS daily would cure MS.  Is this the 
same root cause???  Has anyone actually tried a gallon of CS daily?


--
Day Sutton
day.sut...@gmail.com

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.4.1/1512 - Release Date: 6/21/2008 
9:27 AM



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Re: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Dee]

The Silver Puppy #2 Mag unit which I have, stirs itself.  Dee 

---Original Message---
 
From: Clayton Family
Date: 22/06/2008 15:32:02
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>Making CS/Parkinson
 
 
As for a stirrer, you may set a light bulb next to the jar, and that
Will do just fine- the heat from the bulb will cause the water to
slowly move in convective currents, and it does not take much to do a
fine job. I used to do that, then I got one of the silverpuppy bases
that has a little light bulb in it, and I set my jar on that.
 
On the other hand, if you heat the water up before you start, it will
already be moving enough for some time.
 

Re: CS>Making CS/

[Dee]

Is this good?  I always understood that clear was best, but pale yellow ok. 
I suppose it depends what you are using it for.  Dee 

---Original Message---
 
From: m1mar...@aol.com
Date: 22/06/2008 14:45:49
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>Making CS/
 
I use the batteries on my golf cart, and turn out an amber colored CS.  Ed.

Re: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Clayton Family]

I googled that unit, and it looks like it says to start with 16 ounces 
of water-and that would speed it up. I usually make it in quart jars,  
I use 3 9V batteries, and it takes 5 or 6 hours with my larger 
electrodes. When I use my smaller electrodes, it takes about twice the 
time.


As for a stirrer, you may set a light bulb next to the jar, and that 
will do just fine- the heat from the bulb will cause the water to 
slowly move in convective currents, and it does not take much to do a 
fine job. I used to do that, then I got one of the silverpuppy bases 
that has a little light bulb in it, and I set my jar on that.


On the other hand, if you heat the water up before you start, it will 
already be moving enough for some time.


When I first started taking cs, I found that I had some herx reactions 
from whatever it was killing. That is common for some kinds of 
infections. Some people prefer to grit their teeth and go whole hog, 
and others prefer to keep the reactions to a mild roar and limit the 
amount they take. It can depend on how one's body reacts, and how well 
one tolerates that.


kathryn

On Jun 21, 2008, at 9:33 PM, Mary Ellen Murphy wrote:


I am borrowing one from a friend called the silver pulsar.  I was also
wondering how much to take to start.  I am trying to figure out what I 
need

to get with the silver puppy.  I understand that you need some kind of
stirrer with it.  I don't know whether to get the #1 kit or #2.

Thanks
Mary Ellen



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Re: CS>Making CS/

[N Cameron]

Thanks to this site I purchased a Silver Gen 6 in 2005 and have not been ill 
since ...no more colds sore throats or influenza ...and it is still solving bad 
habit issues accumulated over 67 years of life
I was paying 22 dollars for 4 ounces of 5ppm before I purchased it ..my first 
surprise was the disappearance of a scar on my finger ...
be well
Norm

  - Original Message - 
  From: bbanever 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 9:34 AM
  Subject: Re: CS>Making CS/


  seth,

  While I'm sure this unit makes high quality ionic/colloidal silver, it is 
no better than either the SilverGen or the Silver Puppy.  ALL make equally fine 
and pure ionic/colloidal silver. 

  Bob
- Original Message - 
From: seth sato 
To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 10:07 PM
Subject: Re: CS>Making CS/






Has anyone ever used this C maker 
http://health2us.com/colloidal_silver/colloid.htm?  I have been on this group 
for some time now and I have never seen one person talk about this unit.  I 
have found it to be one of the best on the market and have used it for at least 
6 years.  It makes a gallon or 5 gallons depending on which unit you choose and 
 it works great.  I have no affiliation nor do I benefit from anyone buying 
this unit, my purpose in this is to find out if anyone has tried this C maker.

I see people recommending what I think are inferior units compared to this 
one and I wish to make sure everyone knows this option exist.  I look forward 
to any feedback anyone has to offer.

Thanks

Seth

Re: CS>Making CS/

[M1marine]

I use the batteries on my golf cart, and turn out an amber colored  CS.  Ed.



**Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.  
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut000507)

Re: CS>Making CS/

[cking001]

Holy Cr*p!
$300 & $500???
Am I glad I was technically savy enough to put together my own
systems!
That's quite an investment, but it WILL improve your life, so that's
worth something.

Chuck
He's dead, Jim. You take his phaser, I'll get his wallet.

On 6/22/2008 1:07:41 AM, seth sato (seths...@yahoo.com) wrote:
> Has anyone ever used this C maker http://health2us.
> com/colloidal_silver/colloid.htm? I have been on this group for some time
> now and I have never seen one person talk about this unit. I have found it
> to be one of the best on the market and have used it for at least 6 years.
> It makes a gallon or 5 gallons depending on which unit you choose and it
> works great. I have no affiliation nor do I benefit from anyone buying
> this unit, my purpose in this is to find out if anyone has tried this C
> maker.
> 
> I see people recommending what I think are inferi
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.4.1/1513 - Release Date: 6/22/2008 7:52 
AM

Re: CS>Making CS/

[bbanever]

seth,

While I'm sure this unit makes high quality ionic/colloidal silver, it is 
no better than either the SilverGen or the Silver Puppy.  ALL make equally fine 
and pure ionic/colloidal silver. 

Bob
  - Original Message - 
  From: seth sato 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 10:07 PM
  Subject: Re: CS>Making CS/






  Has anyone ever used this C maker 
http://health2us.com/colloidal_silver/colloid.htm?  I have been on this group 
for some time now and I have never seen one person talk about this unit.  I 
have found it to be one of the best on the market and have used it for at least 
6 years.  It makes a gallon or 5 gallons depending on which unit you choose and 
 it works great.  I have no affiliation nor do I benefit from anyone buying 
this unit, my purpose in this is to find out if anyone has tried this C maker.

  I see people recommending what I think are inferior units compared to this 
one and I wish to make sure everyone knows this option exist.  I look forward 
to any feedback anyone has to offer.

  Thanks

  Seth

Re: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Hanneke]

those objections are individual of course..
In all the years I have had the silver puppy, have 2 of them, it has
never taken me anywhere near  8 hours.
The temperature of water is a good starting point,  the colder the
longer it takes
and perhaps a little seeding, speeds things up too.
Hanneke
At 10:23 PM 22/06/2008, you wrote:

That was my objection to the silver
puppy...it takes so long.  The generator I have now takes 3 hours to
make one quart.  I could have gotten a generator that makes a gallon
but a quart is enough.  Faith G.
 
 


- Original Message - 

From: Dee 

To:
silver-list@eskimo.com 

Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 8:36 AM

Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

Hi Mary Ellen, I am answering two of your mails at the same time, as
I read this one last - 

The Silver Puppy comes complete with everything you need (except the
canning jar)  I got the #2 kit because it has the little magnet
stirrer which you just pop in the jar.  It is as easy as falling off
a log to be honest, and this comes from someone who is mechanically
challenged to say the least!  It *does* take quite a time to make,
(it took me 8 hours to  make one quart) but this was probably
because my water was *very* pure (double distlled.)  if you put in
the next batch about a quarter out of the first batch, however, this will
knock two hours off the time.  I don't find the time it takes a
problem at all, because if you need more - quickly, then you just start
the whole thing up again and that way, you would have quite a bit in a
few days.  As it doesn't matter how long it is stored, then it
shouldn't matter how long it takes to make.  I think it is a
brilliant little unit and he is so clever to have made it all fit into
such a small space compared to others, with so few working parts to have
to bother about.  Dee 

 

---Original Message---

 

From: Mary Ellen
Murphy

Date: 22/06/2008 03:34:12

To:
silver-list@eskimo.com

Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

 

I am borrowing one from a friend called the silver pulsar.  I
was also

wondering how much to take to start.  I am trying to figure out
what I need

to get with the silver puppy.  I understand that you need some
kind of

stirrer with it.  I don't know whether to get the #1 kit or
#2.

 

Thanks

Mary Ellen

 

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 270.4.1/1512 - Release Date:
21/06/2008 9:27 AM



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RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Dee]

I forgot to say here, that I set mine to run on reverse polarity, which does
take a lot longer.  This prevents build up on the electrodes I understand. 
I believe it takes about four hours if left to run on direct current. Dee 

---Original Message---
 
From: Dee
Date: 22/06/2008 13:37:00
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson
 
Hi Mary Ellen, I am answering two of your mails at the same time, as I read
this one last - 
The Silver Puppy comes complete with everything you need (except the canning
jar)  I got the #2 kit because it has the little magnet stirrer which you
just pop in the jar.  It is as easy as falling off a log to be honest, and
this comes from someone who is mechanically challenged to say the least!  It
*does* take quite a time to make, (it took me 8 hours to  make one quart)
but this was probably because my water was *very* pure (double distlled.) 
if you put in the next batch about a quarter out of the first batch, however
 this will knock two hours off the time.  I don't find the time it takes a
problem at all, because if you need more - quickly, then you just start the
whole thing up again and that way, you would have quite a bit in a few days.
 As it doesn't matter how long it is stored, then it shouldn't matter how
long it takes to make.  I think it is a brilliant little unit and he is so
clever to have made it all fit into such a small space compared to others,
with so few working parts to have to bother about.  Dee 
 

Re: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Faith Gagne]

That was my objection to the silver puppy...it takes so long.  The generator I 
have now takes 3 hours to make one quart.  I could have gotten a generator that 
makes a gallon but a quart is enough.  Faith G.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Dee 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 8:36 AM
  Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson


Hi Mary Ellen, I am answering two of your mails at the same time, as I 
read this one last - 
The Silver Puppy comes complete with everything you need (except the 
canning jar)  I got the #2 kit because it has the little magnet stirrer which 
you just pop in the jar.  It is as easy as falling off a log to be honest, and 
this comes from someone who is mechanically challenged to say the least!  It 
*does* take quite a time to make, (it took me 8 hours to  make one quart) but 
this was probably because my water was *very* pure (double distlled.)  if you 
put in the next batch about a quarter out of the first batch, however, this 
will knock two hours off the time.  I don't find the time it takes a problem at 
all, because if you need more - quickly, then you just start the whole thing up 
again and that way, you would have quite a bit in a few days.  As it doesn't 
matter how long it is stored, then it shouldn't matter how long it takes to 
make.  I think it is a brilliant little unit and he is so clever to have made 
it all fit into such a small space compared to others, with so few working 
parts to have to bother about.  Dee 

---Original Message---

From: Mary Ellen Murphy
Date: 22/06/2008 03:34:12
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
        Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

I am borrowing one from a friend called the silver pulsar.  I was also
wondering how much to take to start.  I am trying to figure out what I 
need
to get with the silver puppy.  I understand that you need some kind of
stirrer with it.  I don't know whether to get the #1 kit or #2.

Thanks
Mary Ellen
   
  
   

RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Dee]

Hi Mary Ellen, I am answering two of your mails at the same time, as I read
this one last - 
The Silver Puppy comes complete with everything you need (except the canning
jar)  I got the #2 kit because it has the little magnet stirrer which you
just pop in the jar.  It is as easy as falling off a log to be honest, and
this comes from someone who is mechanically challenged to say the least!  It
*does* take quite a time to make, (it took me 8 hours to  make one quart)
but this was probably because my water was *very* pure (double distlled.) 
if you put in the next batch about a quarter out of the first batch, however
 this will knock two hours off the time.  I don't find the time it takes a
problem at all, because if you need more - quickly, then you just start the
whole thing up again and that way, you would have quite a bit in a few days.
 As it doesn't matter how long it is stored, then it shouldn't matter how
long it takes to make.  I think it is a brilliant little unit and he is so
clever to have made it all fit into such a small space compared to others,
with so few working parts to have to bother about.  Dee 

---Original Message---
 
From: Mary Ellen Murphy
Date: 22/06/2008 03:34:12
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson
 
I am borrowing one from a friend called the silver pulsar.  I was also
wondering how much to take to start.  I am trying to figure out what I need
to get with the silver puppy.  I understand that you need some kind of
stirrer with it.  I don't know whether to get the #1 kit or #2.
 
Thanks
Mary Ellen
 

RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Judy Knowlton]

I have the #1 kit - works fine. The funnel is glass, so delicate.
JudyDownMaine



-Original Message-
From: Mary Ellen Murphy [mailto:maryelle...@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 10:34 PM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

I am borrowing one from a friend called the silver pulsar.  I was
also
wondering how much to take to start.  I am trying to figure out
what I need
to get with the silver puppy.  I understand that you need some
kind of
stirrer with it.  I don't know whether to get the #1 kit or #2.

Thanks
Mary Ellen

-Original Message-
From: Clayton Family [mailto:clay...@skypoint.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 9:30 PM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

yes, it does take quite awhile.  Which generator do you have?


On Jun 21, 2008, at 9:00 PM, Mary Ellen Murphy wrote:

> I have been making CS all day and don't have  gallon yet.  Do
all
> generators take 2 hours to make 2 cups of silver.  This is not
as easy
> as is sounds.  Mary Ellen
>
>
> From: Day Sutton [mailto:day.sut...@gmail.com]


--
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Silver.

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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.4.1/1512 - Release Date:
6/21/2008 9:27 AM

Re: CS>Making CS/

[Faith Gagne]

What did you use before you used this unit and why did you switch?  Thanks.  
Faith G.

  - Original Message - 
  From: seth sato 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 1:07 AM
  Subject: Re: CS>Making CS/






  Has anyone ever used this C maker 
http://health2us.com/colloidal_silver/colloid.htm?  I have been on this group 
for some time now and I have never seen one person talk about this unit.  I 
have found it to be one of the best on the market and have used it for at least 
6 years.  It makes a gallon or 5 gallons depending on which unit you choose and 
 it works great.  I have no affiliation nor do I benefit from anyone buying 
this unit, my purpose in this is to find out if anyone has tried this C maker.

  I see people recommending what I think are inferior units compared to this 
one and I wish to make sure everyone knows this option exist.  I look forward 
to any feedback anyone has to offer.

  Thanks

  Seth

Re: CS>Making CS/

[Craig Chamberlin]

Hello Seth,

I believe the reason that no one else uses this device is for the
following reasons (granted I only spent about five minutes checking,
I'll leave the in depth dissection to others):

1) They have only had this web site for less than 1 year.
2) The claims made on the home page are outrageous.
3) And I don't recall ever seeing your name before.
4) You are wrong when you speak about others recommending inferior
units, if all you have ever used is this thing.

I think it is possible/very likely that you are a shill...just my
opinion.

Regards,

Craig





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Re: CS>Making CS/

[seth sato]

Has anyone ever used this C maker
http://health2us.com/colloidal_silver/colloid.htm?  I have been on this
group for some time now and I have never seen one person talk about this
unit.  I have found it to be one of the best on the market and have used
it for at least 6 years.  It makes a gallon or 5 gallons depending on
which unit you choose and  it works great.  I have no affiliation nor
do I benefit from anyone buying this unit, my purpose in this is to find out if
anyone has tried this C maker.

I see people recommending what I think are inferior units compared to this one
and I wish to make sure everyone knows this option exist.  I look forward
to any feedback anyone has to offer.

Thanks

Seth


  

RE: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Mary Ellen Murphy]

I am borrowing one from a friend called the silver pulsar.  I was also
wondering how much to take to start.  I am trying to figure out what I need
to get with the silver puppy.  I understand that you need some kind of
stirrer with it.  I don't know whether to get the #1 kit or #2.

Thanks 
Mary Ellen

-Original Message-
From: Clayton Family [mailto:clay...@skypoint.com] 
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 9:30 PM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

yes, it does take quite awhile.  Which generator do you have?


On Jun 21, 2008, at 9:00 PM, Mary Ellen Murphy wrote:

> I have been making CS all day and don’t have  gallon yet.  Do all 
> generators take 2 hours to make 2 cups of silver.  This is not as easy 
> as is sounds.  Mary Ellen
>  
>
> From: Day Sutton [mailto:day.sut...@gmail.com]


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Re: CS>Making CS/Parkinson

[Clayton Family]

yes, it does take quite awhile.  Which generator do you have?


On Jun 21, 2008, at 9:00 PM, Mary Ellen Murphy wrote:

I have been making CS all day and don’t have  gallon yet.  Do all 
generators take 2 hours to make 2 cups of silver.  This is not as easy 
as is sounds.  Mary Ellen

 

From: Day Sutton [mailto:day.sut...@gmail.com]



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Re: CS>Making CS

[M. G. Devour]

> _http://keelynet.com/biology/colloid.htm_ 
> (http://keelynet.com/biology/colloid.htm) 

Those are vintage instructions from *way* back, including a grain-of-
wheat bulb as a crude current limiter and recommending the use of SALT 
to make things happen faster.

Do *NOT* use these instructions as written. The use of salt has been 
discouraged for years now.

Be well,

Mike D.
[Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
[mdev...@eskimo.com]
[Speaking only for myself...   ]


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RE: CS>Making CS

[Richard Harris]

Hi Geoping,
Please click on www.rharrisinc.com and you should find items &
prices--please let me know if you have difficulty. Thanks.
Sincerely.
___
Richard Harris, 59 Year FL Pharmacist
448 West Juniata Street
Clermont, FL 34711
http://www.rharrisinc.com
http://www.seasilver.com/reh
http://healthandhealing.blogspot.com


  -Original Message-
  From: geop...@aol.com [mailto:geop...@aol.com]
  Sent: Wednesday, November 08, 2006 7:52 PM
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com
  Subject: Re: CS>Making CS


  went to site, could not find anything priced as you said,, please advise,,
thanks so much, geo.

Re: CS>Making CS

[Geoping]

went to site, could not find anything priced as you said,, please advise,,  
thanks so much, geo. 

RE: CS>Making CS

[nathan cross]

Hi
this site has a link to Free D.I.Y Designs
really simple to make and use
http://www.silverwell.com.au/

TDS meters give a very rough but still useful measure of the strength of the 
cs you are producing


nathan







From: "Kirsteen Wright" 
Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: CS>Making CS
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 15:14:03 +

Hi I've recently become interested in CS and am totally convinced of its
benefits. However I've been buying it ready made as I have no clue how to
make it. This obviously makes it quite expensive, especially with shipping.
Is there any easy way of making it at home. I haven't a clue where to even
start. Is there a kit or something I can buy?

Any advice gratefully appreciated

Kirsteen



--
Chaos, confusion, disorder - my work here is done


_
Advertisement: Looking for a car that won't break the budget?  Go to 
www.tradingpost.com.au  
http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eautotrader%2Ecom%2Eau%2Fbrowse%2Dauto%2FAutomotive%2F%3Freferrer%3Dplace1&_t=758874129&_r=emailtagline_nov&_m=EXT



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List maintainer: Mike Devour 
  

Re: CS>Making CS

[Deborah Gerard]

HiV...is on this site and he sells a unit for $29.95...and it works great 
and you can pick his brain with tons of questions. Here is his site... 
http://www.cheap-zappers.com/silvermaker.htm

debbie

- Original Message 
From: Kirsteen Wright 
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2006 10:14:03 AM
Subject: CS>Making CS


Hi I've recently become interested in CS and am totally convinced of its 
benefits. However I've been buying it ready made as I have no clue how to make 
it. This obviously makes it quite expensive, especially with shipping.  Is 
there any easy way of making it at home. I haven't a clue where to even start. 
Is there a kit or something I can buy? 
 
Any advice gratefully appreciated
 
Kirsteen
 


-- 
Chaos, confusion, disorder - my work here is done

Re: CS>Making CS

[Kirsteen Wright]

On 11/2/06, Marshall Dudley  wrote:


You can make your own unit, or purchase a ready made one.  Many here
have had success with these companies:

http://www.silvergen.com/
http://silverpuppy.com



I've had a look for units in the UK and this is the only one I can find. Any
comments. Does it look as if it's any good.

thanks for the help. I'm really clueless.

Kirsteen

--

Chaos, confusion, disorder - my work here is done

Re: CS>Making CS

[Marshall Dudley]

You can make your own unit, or purchase a ready made one.  Many here
have had success with these companies:

http://www.silvergen.com/
http://silverpuppy.com

Marshall

Kirsteen Wright wrote:

> Hi I've recently become interested in CS and am totally convinced of
> its benefits. However I've been buying it ready made as I have no clue
> how to make it. This obviously makes it quite expensive, especially
> with shipping.  Is there any easy way of making it at home. I haven't
> a clue where to even start. Is there a kit or something I can buy? Any
> advice gratefully appreciated Kirsteen
>
> --
> Chaos, confusion, disorder - my work here is done



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RE: CS>Making CS

[Todd Paddock]

http://silverpuppy.com/page1b.html

Kristeen this is where I just ordered mine from got it in like 4 days and 
made my first batch last night with no problems. Very Happy.

Todd Paddock



From: "Kirsteen Wright" 
Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: CS>Making CS
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2006 15:14:03 +

Hi I've recently become interested in CS and am totally convinced of its
benefits. However I've been buying it ready made as I have no clue how to
make it. This obviously makes it quite expensive, especially with shipping.
Is there any easy way of making it at home. I haven't a clue where to even
start. Is there a kit or something I can buy?

Any advice gratefully appreciated

Kirsteen



--
Chaos, confusion, disorder - my work here is done


_
Use your PC to make calls at very low rates 
https://voiceoam.pcs.v2s.live.com/partnerredirect.aspx



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RE: CS>Re: Re: CS>Making CS

[Jim Holmes]

I will very much appreciate a schematic.

Thank you for the work and care.

Jim

-Original Message-
From: parj...@bellsouth.net [mailto:parj...@bellsouth.net] 
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 7:30 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: CS>Re: Re: CS>Making CS

Hi Steve
Please send me a copy of your schematic, I would very much appreciate it.
Many thanks
Jacques
> 
> From: "S&JY" 
> Date: 2006/05/25 Thu AM 12:18:21 EDT
> To: 
> CC: 
> Subject: Re: CS>Making CS
> 
> Joseph,
> 
> My homemade generator uses a quart mason jar, with #12 vertically 
> mounted silver wires spaced about 2 inches apart whose ends are about 
> 3/4 of an inch from the bottom.  I use a constant current of about 200 
> microamps and let it brew for 24 hours.  The very low current produces 
> very fine particles and doesn't require mechanical or thermal stirring 
> (the Brownian motion provides sufficient "stirring").  I don't use 
> polarity switching, but I do swap the wires every batch so they wear 
> out evenly.  Be sure to use only steam distilled water.
> 
> If you are handy with electronics, I can send you a schematic of the 
> constant current supply I use.  The parts cost around $15.  Or, you 
> can simply buy a constant current diode from Mouser Electronics and 
> put it in series with a 24 volt DC wall transformer available from 
> Radio Shack or Jameco or many other sources.
> 
> --Steve Y.
> 
> - Original Message -
> From: "Joseph Fritz" 
> To: 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 7:52 PM
> Subject: CS>Making CS
> 
> 
> Hi everyone. It's been a while since I've made CS and have 
> lost/misplaced most of what I was using to make CS. I plan on building 
> a new generator. And was wondering what the current consensus on 
> making CS is. I am going to get new wire for making CS I will be 
> making it in a mason jar Any recommendations on what length 
> cathode/electrode for jar size? I will be using 12 gauge silver wire. 
> What size batch? 16, 32, 64OZ Should I use polarity switching? Should 
> I also have an on/off cycle? What voltage/current? I would look in the 
> archives but they disappeared Any idea if/when they will return? Also 
> if this info is on a web page somewhere could you please point me to 
> it? Thank you! Sincerely Joseph Fritz
> 
> 
> 
> 
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CS>Re: Re: CS>Making CS

[parjac7]

Hi Steve
Please send me a copy of your schematic, I would very much appreciate it.
Many thanks
Jacques
> 
> From: "S&JY" 
> Date: 2006/05/25 Thu AM 12:18:21 EDT
> To: 
> CC: 
> Subject: Re: CS>Making CS
> 
> Joseph,
> 
> My homemade generator uses a quart mason jar, with #12 vertically mounted
> silver wires spaced about 2 inches apart whose ends are about 3/4 of an inch
> from the bottom.  I use a constant current of about 200 microamps and let it
> brew for 24 hours.  The very low current produces very fine particles and
> doesn't require mechanical or thermal stirring (the Brownian motion provides
> sufficient "stirring").  I don't use polarity switching, but I do swap the
> wires every batch so they wear out evenly.  Be sure to use only steam
> distilled water.
> 
> If you are handy with electronics, I can send you a schematic of the
> constant current supply I use.  The parts cost around $15.  Or, you can
> simply buy a constant current diode from Mouser Electronics and put it in
> series with a 24 volt DC wall transformer available from Radio Shack or
> Jameco or many other sources.
> 
> --Steve Y.
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Joseph Fritz" 
> To: 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 7:52 PM
> Subject: CS>Making CS
> 
> 
> Hi everyone. It's been a while since I've made CS and have lost/misplaced
> most of what I was using to make CS. I plan on building a new generator. And
> was wondering what the current consensus on making CS is. I am going to get
> new wire for making CS I will be making it in a mason jar Any
> recommendations on what length cathode/electrode for jar size? I will be
> using 12 gauge silver wire. What size batch? 16, 32, 64OZ Should I use
> polarity switching? Should I also have an on/off cycle? What
> voltage/current? I would look in the archives but they disappeared Any idea
> if/when they will return? Also if this info is on a web page somewhere could
> you please point me to it? Thank you! Sincerely Joseph Fritz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
> 
> Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org
> 
> To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
> 
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> 
> The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...
> 
> List maintainer: Mike Devour 
>
> 
> 

Re: CS>Making CS

Joseph,

My homemade generator uses a quart mason jar, with #12 vertically mounted
silver wires spaced about 2 inches apart whose ends are about 3/4 of an inch
from the bottom.  I use a constant current of about 200 microamps and let it
brew for 24 hours.  The very low current produces very fine particles and
doesn't require mechanical or thermal stirring (the Brownian motion provides
sufficient "stirring").  I don't use polarity switching, but I do swap the
wires every batch so they wear out evenly.  Be sure to use only steam
distilled water.

If you are handy with electronics, I can send you a schematic of the
constant current supply I use.  The parts cost around $15.  Or, you can
simply buy a constant current diode from Mouser Electronics and put it in
series with a 24 volt DC wall transformer available from Radio Shack or
Jameco or many other sources.

--Steve Y.

- Original Message - 
From: "Joseph Fritz" 
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 7:52 PM
Subject: CS>Making CS


Hi everyone. It's been a while since I've made CS and have lost/misplaced
most of what I was using to make CS. I plan on building a new generator. And
was wondering what the current consensus on making CS is. I am going to get
new wire for making CS I will be making it in a mason jar Any
recommendations on what length cathode/electrode for jar size? I will be
using 12 gauge silver wire. What size batch? 16, 32, 64OZ Should I use
polarity switching? Should I also have an on/off cycle? What
voltage/current? I would look in the archives but they disappeared Any idea
if/when they will return? Also if this info is on a web page somewhere could
you please point me to it? Thank you! Sincerely Joseph Fritz




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Re: CS>making CS - The Work Factor

[Dan Nave]

Thanks Mike for applying so much clarity to this issue.  I think you 
have described it exactly right.


Calculating the total silver released into the solution, or at least the 
maximum possible, based on watt-seconds was the basis of Bob Lee's and 
Mike Monet's posts indicating how to calculate the amount of silver in 
the CS (Faraday's equations of electrolysis, I think...)


This is what I used to determine the amount of time to run my 1/2 gallon 
of CS when I make it with a constant current system but no conductivity 
sensor.  I did the integration of the current before the current limit 
kicked in, and after that I had a constant current situation which could 
be regulated for ppm by the time of brewing.  This works quite 
consistently for a known brewing cell with a known distilled water.


The thing that's bothering me is illustrated in Ole Bob's graph of the 
"Effects of Initial Conductance on Brew Time" on page 8 of his CS book.


One brew, starting with higher conductivity water, took 45 minutes, the 
other,starting with lower conductivity water, took 120 minutes.  Both 
brews ended up with the same general silver ion ppm.  However, the first 
one required 244 watt-seconds and the second one took 348 watt-seconds 
to get to the same silver ion concentration.  This was a polarity 
switching cell; what happened to the extra liberated silver?  The graph 
says very little tyndall.  This implies that it is more efficient to 
start with higher conductivity distilled water and brew for a shorter 
time at higher current than to start at a lower conductivity DW and brew 
longer at a lower current!?...


Dan

(What? You don't have a copy of Ole Bob's book?  Get your a$$ in gear 
and get one right away! You don't know how long they will be 
available!...  I just bought two more - I had given one away, and now I 
have one to keep and one to loan out.  ;-))



M. G. Devour wrote:

Bob writes:


Power factor becomes a problem in alternating current systems, NOT
switched DC systems. It involves the phase angle bewteen the voltage and
current in the system.



Bob's right, in that the term Power Factor has a specific meaning in 
alternating current systems with reactive loads, neither of which apply 
in a typical low voltage CS generator, no matter how sophisticated or 
simple its design.


I think the original person (Wayne?) who suggested "Power Factor" was 
simply thinking of the relevance of voltage and current -- which, when 
multiplied together gives you the power being dissipated in a circuit --
to the making of CS.  

I think the most relevant answer was alluded to early on on this 
thread, probably by Bob, again, that if you integrate the current 
driven  through the generating cell, you'll get a number which is very 
closely related to the total amount of silver that's been put into the 
water.


You can think of this integration process as adding together the 
current reading every second for the duration of the run. You'll get a 
figure in milliamp-seconds or amp-seconds. Multiply each reading by the 
corresponding voltage reading, you'll get a value in milliwatt-seconds 
or amp-hours, both of which are a measure of work.


There might be a lot of information that a careful researcher could 
tease out of such readings and calculations regarding the form the 
silver takes in the water in response to applied voltage, relative to 
surface area,  geometry, initial purity, and other factors that affect 
the process. In fact, Bob has done a lot of just that sort of study.


It's easy to confuse matters when one innocently attempts to express an 
idea with a term that sounds right but already has another, precise but 
totally different meaning.


Be well,

Mike D.

[Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
[mdev...@eskimo.com]
[Speaking only for myself...   ]



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Re: CS>making CS - The Work Factor

[M. G. Devour]

Bob writes:
> Power factor becomes a problem in alternating current systems, NOT
> switched DC systems. It involves the phase angle bewteen the voltage and
> current in the system.

Bob's right, in that the term Power Factor has a specific meaning in 
alternating current systems with reactive loads, neither of which apply 
in a typical low voltage CS generator, no matter how sophisticated or 
simple its design.

I think the original person (Wayne?) who suggested "Power Factor" was 
simply thinking of the relevance of voltage and current -- which, when 
multiplied together gives you the power being dissipated in a circuit --
to the making of CS.  

I think the most relevant answer was alluded to early on on this 
thread, probably by Bob, again, that if you integrate the current 
driven  through the generating cell, you'll get a number which is very 
closely related to the total amount of silver that's been put into the 
water.

You can think of this integration process as adding together the 
current reading every second for the duration of the run. You'll get a 
figure in milliamp-seconds or amp-seconds. Multiply each reading by the 
corresponding voltage reading, you'll get a value in milliwatt-seconds 
or amp-hours, both of which are a measure of work.

There might be a lot of information that a careful researcher could 
tease out of such readings and calculations regarding the form the 
silver takes in the water in response to applied voltage, relative to 
surface area,  geometry, initial purity, and other factors that affect 
the process. In fact, Bob has done a lot of just that sort of study.

It's easy to confuse matters when one innocently attempts to express an 
idea with a term that sounds right but already has another, precise but 
totally different meaning.

Be well,

Mike D.

[Mike Devour, Citizen, Patriot, Libertarian]
[mdev...@eskimo.com]
[Speaking only for myself...   ]


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Re: CS>making CS - The Work Factor

[Wayne Fugitt]

Evening Ode,

> It's not just "simple" watt hours..complicated watt hours maybe.
Never mind, I'm not going to try and figure it out, just do it till I'm 
done and let it be what it is.


  From your other message, I think you are thinking of the power for the 
entire batch process.


I was thinking of the instantaneous value to compare different 
systems,  batch sizes,  electrode spacing, ect.


I fully realize the total watts would be some trouble to calculate.

Some of us observe current to learn and develop an instinct for the system 
that we use.


Of course I agree that most need not be concerned with these units or 
calculations.


Wayne


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Re: CS>making CS - The Work Factor

[Ode Coyote]

 Understood.
 Groping for a term, you see...
 Power absorbed perhaps?  What?
 It's not just "simple" watt hours..complicated watt hours maybe.
Never mind, I'm not going to try and figure it out, just do it till I'm 
done and let it be what it is.


ode

At 02:46 PM 4/20/2006 -0500, you wrote:


Ok, but this is not what is called "Power Factor."

Dan


>>> Ode Coyote  4/20/2006 5:30:17 AM >>>

>Power factor is a consideration but not because of phase shift

  When the process is interrupted either by removing the electrodes or
by
switching polarity, some sort of  [ionization???] field collapses in
the water.
  It takes several seconds for current to start flowing again.

Ode


>Polarity switching, as we do it for CS making, is much too slow to
>cause any sort of phase shift requiring consideration of Power
>Factors.
>
>Bottom line, Power Factor - just forget about it...
>Watts or Total Power - may stand looking into...
>
>Dan
>
>
>
> >>> Ode Coyote  4/17/2006 6:02:34 AM >>>
>
>I follow your logic too.
>More apt perhaps...especially when using automatic polarity
switching,
>the
>term "power factor" comes to mind.
>Power factor? ...well... I've heard of it, seen it on charts and
>"grasp"
>[at] the concept up to where it turns the calculus corner.
>[ The meter tells me it's there but not its name ]
>Power factor is expressed in terms of watts?   [ Like, watt the
>heck!!?? :-)
>
>
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Re: CS>making CS - The Work Factor

[Robert Berger]

Power factor becomes a problem in alternating current systems, NOT switched DC 
systems. It involves the phase angle bewteen the voltage and current in the 
system.
   
  So leave it alone. 

  "Ole Bob" 
  B.S. EE Univ of Illionis 1947.

Dan Nave  wrote:
  Ok, but this is not what is called "Power Factor." 

Dan


>>> Ode Coyote 4/20/2006 5:30:17 AM >>>

>Power factor is a consideration but not because of phase shift

When the process is interrupted either by removing the electrodes or
by 
switching polarity, some sort of [ionization???] field collapses in
the water.
It takes several seconds for current to start flowing again.

Ode


>Polarity switching, as we do it for CS making, is much too slow to
>cause any sort of phase shift requiring consideration of Power
>Factors.
>
>Bottom line, Power Factor - just forget about it...
>Watts or Total Power - may stand looking into...
>
>Dan
>
>
>
> >>> Ode Coyote 4/17/2006 6:02:34 AM >>>
>
> I follow your logic too.
>More apt perhaps...especially when using automatic polarity
switching,
>the
>term "power factor" comes to mind.
> Power factor? ...well... I've heard of it, seen it on charts and
>"grasp"
>[at] the concept up to where it turns the calculus corner.
>[ The meter tells me it's there but not its name ]
>Power factor is expressed in terms of watts? [ Like, watt the
>heck!!?? :-)
>
>
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>
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Re: CS>making CS - The Work Factor

[Dan Nave]

Ok, but this is not what is called "Power Factor."  

Dan


>>> Ode Coyote  4/20/2006 5:30:17 AM >>>

>Power factor is a consideration but not because of phase shift

  When the process is interrupted either by removing the electrodes or
by 
switching polarity, some sort of  [ionization???] field collapses in
the water.
  It takes several seconds for current to start flowing again.

Ode


>Polarity switching, as we do it for CS making, is much too slow to
>cause any sort of phase shift requiring consideration of Power
>Factors.
>
>Bottom line, Power Factor - just forget about it...
>Watts or Total Power - may stand looking into...
>
>Dan
>
>
>
> >>> Ode Coyote  4/17/2006 6:02:34 AM >>>
>
>I follow your logic too.
>More apt perhaps...especially when using automatic polarity
switching,
>the
>term "power factor" comes to mind.
>Power factor? ...well... I've heard of it, seen it on charts and
>"grasp"
>[at] the concept up to where it turns the calculus corner.
>[ The meter tells me it's there but not its name ]
>Power factor is expressed in terms of watts?   [ Like, watt the
>heck!!?? :-)
>
>
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>The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
>
>Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org 
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>
>Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com 
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>
>List maintainer: Mike Devour 
>
>
>
>
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Re: CS>making CS - The Work Factor

[Ode Coyote]

Power factor is a consideration but not because of phase shift


 When the process is interrupted either by removing the electrodes or by 
switching polarity, some sort of  [ionization???] field collapses in the water.

 It takes several seconds for current to start flowing again.

Ode



Polarity switching, as we do it for CS making, is much too slow to
cause any sort of phase shift requiring consideration of Power
Factors.

Bottom line, Power Factor - just forget about it...
Watts or Total Power - may stand looking into...

Dan



>>> Ode Coyote  4/17/2006 6:02:34 AM >>>

   I follow your logic too.
More apt perhaps...especially when using automatic polarity switching,
the
term "power factor" comes to mind.
   Power factor? ...well... I've heard of it, seen it on charts and
"grasp"
[at] the concept up to where it turns the calculus corner.
[ The meter tells me it's there but not its name ]
Power factor is expressed in terms of watts?   [ Like, watt the
heck!!?? :-)


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Re: CS>making CS - should this be happening?

[Ode Coyote]

At 06:19 PM 4/17/2006 -0400, you wrote:

I actually built my generator based on the very same design Ode is 
referring to. I am temporarily using a TDS since that's what I had 
available, I did order the Hanna PWT for future use. One question here, 
can those units be used while silver generator is "plugged in" to take 
readings without damaging them?


##  probably won't hurt the meter but it may also not read right.  Why 
gamble?


so my measurments should be based on the electrical current readings 
rather than TDS/PWT ??


**  No.  A "good" meter is far more accurate.


As far as the current meters you're mentioning... I'm guessing they need 
to get a reading of amperage and voltage... correct?


##  Get two of them [cost as little as $3 ea], one in series with a 
potentiometer and one electrode for current...one in parallel with the 
electrodes for voltage.  Then play and observe what gives you the best 
results. [You'll get the hang of it in a month or two?]


hmmm... not being an expert in this field, I have some idea of what this 
setup should look like. Is there a a illustrative reference available 
somewhere I could take a look at? or something that describes how to build 
this piece in detail...?


**  Put simply:
 "Series" means you break one of the two wires and add stuff in so 
electricity enters one side and goes out the other. [do this to monitor and 
modify current]
 "Parallel" means you add a wire to each of the two existing wires without 
breaking them. [Do this to monitor voltage]
 Since current and voltage monitering requires different hookups, two 
meters are needed to do both at once, or some sort of complicated switching 
to shift from one function to the other.


 Digital read out display multi-meters are easier to read than analog 
meters with sweeping needles and multiple scales..and they can be bought 
for as little as $3 each. [How they can do that when the battery that runs 
it costs a dollar, I'll never know.  The Chinese must be paying their 
employers to get work]


ode






From: Ode Coyote 
Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>making CS - should this be happening?
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 09:23:37 -0400

At 10:12 PM 4/16/2006 -0400, you wrote:


thanks for your responses, Sam and Ode...

I actually built my generator based on the very same design Ode is 
referring to. I am temporarily using a TDS since that's what I had 
available, I did order the Hanna PWT for future use. One question here, 
can those units be used while silver generator is "plugged in" to take 
readings without damaging them?


##  probably won't hurt the meter but it may also not read right.  Why 
gamble?



I will follow your tips to improve my process. My power supply is a 30V 
/ 500mA AC adapter by the way.


Also, what kind of reading should I be getting on PWT in distilled water 
to know that it's good enough? I read that TDS should be below 2, less 
the better obviously.


##  The best I've seen is .2 uS.  The worst I'll use is 5 uS.  Average is 
around .5 to .8 uS
 .5 is about  half of zero on a TDS meter and 1 PPM could be as high as 
10 uS in that range of a 2000 PPM scale.



As far as the current meters you're mentioning... I'm guessing they need 
to get a reading of amperage and voltage... correct?


##  Get two of them [cost as little as $3 ea], one in series with a 
potentiometer and one electrode for current...one in parallel with the 
electrodes for voltage.  Then play and observe what gives you the best 
results. [You'll get the hang of it in a month or two?]



In the meantime, before I build up my generator, can I just let it run 
and take occasional readings with TDS/PWT to get an idea when it's time 
to stop??


##  Yup  [double the TDS reading for an approximation of uS and use 
something like 1 uS = 1 PPM the day after the brew has finished to get 
some idea about predicting conductivity drop as specific to 'your' 
process and batch size]


IOW  5PPM gets you 10...tomorrow, but might say 18 today.

 Make charts of voltage, current and PPM/uS in 10 minute increments so 
you can repeat a "good" batch.


...or...let the faces you make in the mirror be your dose guide, use 
whatever happens that doesn't look like sludge with a hint of caution and 
be happy. ;-)


Ode



thanks for all your help again




From: Ode Coyote 
Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>making CS - should this be happening?
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 09:09:30 -0400

  Sure

Clocks can't work to predict anything unless:
1] you know where you started [a very small difference in water quality 
makes a huge difference in the amount of time it takes to get to a 
desired place.]
2] you have some idea of the current ramp up rate [aka runaway]..it

Re: CS>making CS - The Work Factor

[Dan Nave]

I'm not entirely sure I follow your logic...

Generally, Watts is equal to Volts times Amps.
Watts is also called Power, or the amount of Work done.

If the Volts and Amps are in phase with each other 
then  Watts is equal to Volts times Amps.

If the Volts and Amps are out of phase with each other, 
the amount of actual work done is less than Volts times Amps 
and you use a correction factor called the Power Factor to
show or calculate that.

Generally, for DC circuits the Voltage and Current are always 
in phase with each other and the Power Factor is equal to "1".  
So you can just ignore it...

Polarity switching, as we do it for CS making, is much too slow to 
cause any sort of phase shift requiring consideration of Power
Factors.

Bottom line, Power Factor - just forget about it...
Watts or Total Power - may stand looking into...

Dan



>>> Ode Coyote  4/17/2006 6:02:34 AM >>>

   I follow your logic too.
More apt perhaps...especially when using automatic polarity switching,
the 
term "power factor" comes to mind.
   Power factor? ...well... I've heard of it, seen it on charts and
"grasp" 
[at] the concept up to where it turns the calculus corner.
[ The meter tells me it's there but not its name ]
Power factor is expressed in terms of watts?   [ Like, watt the
heck!!?? :-)


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Re: CS>making CS - The Work Factor

[Tony Moody]

On 16 Apr 2006 at 15:03, Robert Berger wrote about :
Subject : Re: CS>making CS - The Work Factor

> 
> The wattage factor is very real, but about the only way we can measure that 
> is after the fact by 
> plotting the data curve using Wplot32.exe and then running the integration 
> cuvre for the plotted 
> data. Been there done that.
> 
> "Ole Bob"
> 

Hi Ole Bob,

How would you use the Watt reading ? Would knowing the instantaneous Power 
lead to anything useful?

To get the Watts reading;  I would measure Volts and Amps and multiply , which 
will 
give Watts. W = V*I . And you should be able to do that in real time a few 
different 
ways. 

You should be able to just manually write down the numbers and do the 
calculation 
for an almost immediate reading. 

To get a readout of W a way of doing this is log(volt) + log(amp) = log( volt x 
amp) . 
Did multiply two variables and sent to a pen recorder succesfully 30 years ago 
with 
op amps. But fiddly to design, build, setup and calibrate.

An easier way might be to use an analogue multiplier intergrated circuit.  This 
is not 
my forte anymore but you could start with an AD534KD. I do not have the spec 
sheets so I may be way off, but it is a starting place for a search. 

Another way might be to do that digitally. Wayne, you are into data capture and 
processing. Any practical advice re Interfacing, chip specs, software ?

Tony Moody


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Re: CS>making CS - should this be happening?

[. .]

I actually built my generator based on the very same design Ode is 
referring to. I am temporarily using a TDS since that's what I had 
available, I did order the Hanna PWT for future use. One question here, 
can those units be used while silver generator is "plugged in" to take 
readings without damaging them?


##  probably won't hurt the meter but it may also not read right.  Why 
gamble?


so my measurments should be based on the electrical current readings rather 
than TDS/PWT ??


As far as the current meters you're mentioning... I'm guessing they need 
to get a reading of amperage and voltage... correct?


##  Get two of them [cost as little as $3 ea], one in series with a 
potentiometer and one electrode for current...one in parallel with the 
electrodes for voltage.  Then play and observe what gives you the best 
results. [You'll get the hang of it in a month or two?]


hmmm... not being an expert in this field, I have some idea of what this 
setup should look like. Is there a a illustrative reference available 
somewhere I could take a look at? or something that describes how to build 
this piece in detail...?





From: Ode Coyote 
Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>making CS - should this be happening?
Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 09:23:37 -0400

At 10:12 PM 4/16/2006 -0400, you wrote:


thanks for your responses, Sam and Ode...

I actually built my generator based on the very same design Ode is 
referring to. I am temporarily using a TDS since that's what I had 
available, I did order the Hanna PWT for future use. One question here, 
can those units be used while silver generator is "plugged in" to take 
readings without damaging them?


##  probably won't hurt the meter but it may also not read right.  Why 
gamble?



I will follow your tips to improve my process. My power supply is a 30V / 
500mA AC adapter by the way.


Also, what kind of reading should I be getting on PWT in distilled water 
to know that it's good enough? I read that TDS should be below 2, less the 
better obviously.


##  The best I've seen is .2 uS.  The worst I'll use is 5 uS.  Average is 
around .5 to .8 uS
 .5 is about  half of zero on a TDS meter and 1 PPM could be as high as 10 
uS in that range of a 2000 PPM scale.



As far as the current meters you're mentioning... I'm guessing they need 
to get a reading of amperage and voltage... correct?


##  Get two of them [cost as little as $3 ea], one in series with a 
potentiometer and one electrode for current...one in parallel with the 
electrodes for voltage.  Then play and observe what gives you the best 
results. [You'll get the hang of it in a month or two?]



In the meantime, before I build up my generator, can I just let it run and 
take occasional readings with TDS/PWT to get an idea when it's time to 
stop??


##  Yup  [double the TDS reading for an approximation of uS and use 
something like 1 uS = 1 PPM the day after the brew has finished to get some 
idea about predicting conductivity drop as specific to 'your' process and 
batch size]


IOW  5PPM gets you 10...tomorrow, but might say 18 today.

 Make charts of voltage, current and PPM/uS in 10 minute increments so you 
can repeat a "good" batch.


...or...let the faces you make in the mirror be your dose guide, use 
whatever happens that doesn't look like sludge with a hint of caution and 
be happy. ;-)


Ode



thanks for all your help again




From: Ode Coyote 
Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>making CS - should this be happening?
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 09:09:30 -0400

  Sure

Clocks can't work to predict anything unless:
1] you know where you started [a very small difference in water quality 
makes a huge difference in the amount of time it takes to get to a 
desired place.]
2] you have some idea of the current ramp up rate [aka runaway]..it's by 
no means linear like a clock.


 How far out depends on the generator type you're using.

If it's a constant voltage unit:  The first hour you might get 1 to 10 
PPM, the next, from 10 to 50 PPM..all depending where on the electrical 
current acceleration curve you started, as set by the initial water 
quality where a mere 1/2 microsiemens difference in starting conductivity 
between batches makes all that difference in PPM and the time it takes to 
get there.


 A TDS meter isn't good enough to read those differences at all...not 
even close.
 Get a Hanna PWT or COM-100 conductivity meter...and/or a generator that 
has process control functions.


 I found reference to 2 "CS3" generators.
http://www.lwpub.com/downloads/CS_archives/CS3_plans.html

 #1] A "CS3" doesn't control anything which means that you have to 
control IT.

 That takes instruments, knowledge and a watchfu

Re: CS>making CS - should this be happening?

[Ode Coyote]

At 10:12 PM 4/16/2006 -0400, you wrote:


thanks for your responses, Sam and Ode...

I actually built my generator based on the very same design Ode is 
referring to. I am temporarily using a TDS since that's what I had 
available, I did order the Hanna PWT for future use. One question here, 
can those units be used while silver generator is "plugged in" to take 
readings without damaging them?


##  probably won't hurt the meter but it may also not read right.  Why gamble?


I will follow your tips to improve my process. My power supply is a 30V / 
500mA AC adapter by the way.


Also, what kind of reading should I be getting on PWT in distilled water 
to know that it's good enough? I read that TDS should be below 2, less the 
better obviously.


##  The best I've seen is .2 uS.  The worst I'll use is 5 uS.  Average is 
around .5 to .8 uS
 .5 is about  half of zero on a TDS meter and 1 PPM could be as high as 10 
uS in that range of a 2000 PPM scale.



As far as the current meters you're mentioning... I'm guessing they need 
to get a reading of amperage and voltage... correct?


##  Get two of them [cost as little as $3 ea], one in series with a 
potentiometer and one electrode for current...one in parallel with the 
electrodes for voltage.  Then play and observe what gives you the best 
results. [You'll get the hang of it in a month or two?]



In the meantime, before I build up my generator, can I just let it run and 
take occasional readings with TDS/PWT to get an idea when it's time to stop??


##  Yup  [double the TDS reading for an approximation of uS and use 
something like 1 uS = 1 PPM the day after the brew has finished to get some 
idea about predicting conductivity drop as specific to 'your' process and 
batch size]


IOW  5PPM gets you 10...tomorrow, but might say 18 today.

 Make charts of voltage, current and PPM/uS in 10 minute increments so you 
can repeat a "good" batch.


...or...let the faces you make in the mirror be your dose guide, use 
whatever happens that doesn't look like sludge with a hint of caution and 
be happy. ;-)


Ode



thanks for all your help again




From: Ode Coyote 
Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>making CS - should this be happening?
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 09:09:30 -0400

  Sure

Clocks can't work to predict anything unless:
1] you know where you started [a very small difference in water quality 
makes a huge difference in the amount of time it takes to get to a 
desired place.]
2] you have some idea of the current ramp up rate [aka runaway]..it's by 
no means linear like a clock.


 How far out depends on the generator type you're using.

If it's a constant voltage unit:  The first hour you might get 1 to 10 
PPM, the next, from 10 to 50 PPM..all depending where on the electrical 
current acceleration curve you started, as set by the initial water 
quality where a mere 1/2 microsiemens difference in starting conductivity 
between batches makes all that difference in PPM and the time it takes to 
get there.


 A TDS meter isn't good enough to read those differences at all...not 
even close.
 Get a Hanna PWT or COM-100 conductivity meter...and/or a generator that 
has process control functions.


 I found reference to 2 "CS3" generators.
http://www.lwpub.com/downloads/CS_archives/CS3_plans.html

 #1] A "CS3" doesn't control anything which means that you have to 
control IT.

 That takes instruments, knowledge and a watchful eye.
 An ammeter and a potentiometer is a good [cheap] start.

 Some people get pretty good at seat of the pants/ hawk eyeball 
operation on generators like that.


 BTW...don't forget to watch the C3.  If you do forget, it can catch 
fire. [ A fuse on the output that's lower than the transformers max 
current rating wouldn't be a bad idea]




 #2] A "CS3-12" from 
<http://www.antivirol.com/colloidal_generator.html>BIOPHYSICA  does 
control current...but time is still a huge variable. [At least it stops 
ramping up and goes linear once the controlled current is 
reached.  After 'that' point, you can use a clock but getting TO that 
point can vary by several hours]
 Monitor voltage to tell where you are.  When voltage starts going down, 
you're at the point where a clock sorta works.
 Up to somewhere around 20-30 uS [microsiemens of conductivity], voltage 
can tell you something about PPM...like using a conductivity meter.


uS and PPM, though not the same thing, bear a [somewhat tenuous] 
relationship.


Ode

At 10:20 PM 4/15/2006 -0400, you wrote:

all right, I'm kind of confused here... I just lef it running for about 
60 minutes, I take a reading using TDS meter.. and it reads 1 ppm...


thoughts?



From: "Sam Mureno" 
Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>making

Re: CS>making CS - The Work Factor

[Ode Coyote]

  I follow your logic too.
More apt perhaps...especially when using automatic polarity switching, the 
term "power factor" comes to mind.
  Power factor? ...well... I've heard of it, seen it on charts and "grasp" 
[at] the concept up to where it turns the calculus corner.

[ The meter tells me it's there but not its name ]
Power factor is expressed in terms of watts?   [ Like, watt the heck!!?? :-)

I'm one of those 'seat of the pants' people. I've hopped into a lot of 
rides looking for a comfortable one.
 I've quenched a fire on more than one molten transformer with a big 
"Nope...That ain't it"  LOL

[PS  unplug it first ]

 Or is that, once you figure out about the watts, then it's all about the 
hows?
That's watt electronics design engineers are for. [Draw me something that 
does this and I'll build it for a crash test drive. ]


..never stop test driving and chasing watts.

For the newbies...an ode:
 Ten years ago, NOBODY knew anything about "how" to make EIS / CS other 
than it could be done.

 There simply wasn't anything to look up and no one to ask.
 Everyone walks a path a little differently and everyone eventually gets 
somewhere if they keep walking.


 The task is that of the wonderer. [Who bumps the ol head a lot]
It's the wanderer that finds new paths. [and stubs the toes a lot]

 Every newbie is a potential innovator "because" he/she DOESN'T know what 
they're doing...and knows it.
An expert is a newbie that quit wondering and sat down. [adding salt to the 
water for a few decades?]


Think about this:  Most "laboratories" don't know how to analyze EIS.  They 
have no idea what it is.

 A CS newbie, at least, has an idea.

 When no one knows watt a final destination might be, everyone who travels 
is a crash test dumb ass.

Being igner'nt is just part of the deal.

Have you ever cooked and eaten a weiner by sticking the bare ends of an 
extension cord into it and plugging it in to the wall ?

I'll have a hot dog with Ohm slaw
[PS, unpupulug it firrt...or the mustard goes on in a wavy 
oscilloscope like pattern.]


ode  [Amply stated:  Hey!  Watt the wiggling volt currently happened here! ]


At 09:16 AM 4/16/2006 -0500, you wrote:


Morning Ode,

I follow your thinking and logic.

>>At 08:09 AM 4/16/2006, you wrote:


If it's a constant voltage unit:  The first hour you might get 1 to 10 
PPM, the next, from 10 to 50 PPM..all depending where on the electrical 
current acceleration curve you started, as set by the initial water 
quality where a mere 1/2 microsiemens difference in starting conductivity 
between batches makes all that difference in PPM and the time it takes to 
get there.


 A year or two ago, I tried to introduce another unit that is never 
mentioned.

It was the "Wattage Factor".

After all, we don't measure electrical work in current or PPM. I think 
your complete message does in fact relate to the wattage dissipated or 
used in the process.


Most everyone seemed to want to ignore the unit of Watts.

Possibly you or one more person did make a comment of two that indicated 
my thinking had some merit.


I suppose the reason that most wanted to forget watts, is the fact that 
the process is already beyond the understanding of the non technical.


With this in mind,  the non technical should forget all the technical 
terms and learn a non technical process that relates to  vision,  taste, 
color, and a few other factors.


I use a simple constant voltage unit that operates at 52 Volts DC.   The 
people that use the intelligent generators are ahead of the game and need 
not know any of the technicalities.


As I learned when making wine years ago, there are two ways to do it.
One is by the "Seat of the Pants",  the other is by the book.

Could making CS be like this?

I see many messages by the new people that indicate they are genuinely 
confused.


Basically, we are talking about making a technical process, ... NON 
technical.


I think your statements above relate to the Power used in the process.  As 
you said, this instantaneous factor will be changing as the conductivity 
or the resistive media changes.


Wayne







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Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com

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Re: CS>making CS - should this be happening?

[. .]

thanks for your responses, Sam and Ode...

I actually built my generator based on the very same design Ode is referring 
to. I am temporarily using a TDS since that's what I had available, I did 
order the Hanna PWT for future use. One question here, can those units be 
used while silver generator is "plugged in" to take readings without 
damaging them?


I will follow your tips to improve my process. My power supply is a 30V / 
500mA AC adapter by the way.


Also, what kind of reading should I be getting on PWT in distilled water to 
know that it's good enough? I read that TDS should be below 2, less the 
better obviously.


As far as the current meters you're mentioning... I'm guessing they need to 
get a reading of amperage and voltage... correct?


In the meantime, before I build up my generator, can I just let it run and 
take occasional readings with TDS/PWT to get an idea when it's time to 
stop??


thanks for all your help again




From: Ode Coyote 
Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>making CS - should this be happening?
Date: Sun, 16 Apr 2006 09:09:30 -0400

  Sure

Clocks can't work to predict anything unless:
1] you know where you started [a very small difference in water quality 
makes a huge difference in the amount of time it takes to get to a desired 
place.]
2] you have some idea of the current ramp up rate [aka runaway]..it's by no 
means linear like a clock.


 How far out depends on the generator type you're using.

If it's a constant voltage unit:  The first hour you might get 1 to 10 PPM, 
the next, from 10 to 50 PPM..all depending where on the electrical current 
acceleration curve you started, as set by the initial water quality where a 
mere 1/2 microsiemens difference in starting conductivity between batches 
makes all that difference in PPM and the time it takes to get there.


 A TDS meter isn't good enough to read those differences at all...not even 
close.
 Get a Hanna PWT or COM-100 conductivity meter...and/or a generator that 
has process control functions.


 I found reference to 2 "CS3" generators.
http://www.lwpub.com/downloads/CS_archives/CS3_plans.html

 #1] A "CS3" doesn't control anything which means that you have to control 
IT.

 That takes instruments, knowledge and a watchful eye.
 An ammeter and a potentiometer is a good [cheap] start.

 Some people get pretty good at seat of the pants/ hawk eyeball operation 
on generators like that.


 BTW...don't forget to watch the C3.  If you do forget, it can catch fire. 
[ A fuse on the output that's lower than the transformers max current 
rating wouldn't be a bad idea]




 #2] A "CS3-12" from 
<http://www.antivirol.com/colloidal_generator.html>BIOPHYSICA  does control 
current...but time is still a huge variable. [At least it stops ramping up 
and goes linear once the controlled current is reached.  After 'that' 
point, you can use a clock but getting TO that point can vary by several 
hours]
 Monitor voltage to tell where you are.  When voltage starts going down, 
you're at the point where a clock sorta works.
 Up to somewhere around 20-30 uS [microsiemens of conductivity], voltage 
can tell you something about PPM...like using a conductivity meter.


uS and PPM, though not the same thing, bear a [somewhat tenuous] 
relationship.


Ode

At 10:20 PM 4/15/2006 -0400, you wrote:

all right, I'm kind of confused here... I just lef it running for about 60 
minutes, I take a reading using TDS meter.. and it reads 1 ppm...


thoughts?



From: "Sam Mureno" 
Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>making CS - should this be happening?
Date: Sat, 15 Apr 2006 19:05:15 -0700

Yes, this is normal.

Sam

On 4/15/06, . .  wrote:
>
> One of the silver wires in my CS3 generator turns very dark after 
15-20

> minutes of operation, should this be taking place?
>
>
>
> --
> The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
>
> Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org
>
> To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
>
> Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com
>
> The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...
>
> List maintainer: Mike Devour 
>
>
>





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