Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Kjell Lofgren
Well ASCII isn't always ASCII, the question mark in the sentence
"Personally I would put my ? (or whatever) on stainless steel..." was
the monetary symbol for EURO...
Sorry for messing up.



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kjell Lofgren
Sent: den 28 september 2005 07:19
To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water
Heater


Ken,
do not use PVC for drinking water, the softener DEHP in the PVC
material is slowly leaking out and there is also other nonhealthy stuff
(chlorine!) in PVC.
Personally I would put my ? (or whatever) on stainless steel, 18/8
sounds nice to me, almost beautiful...




-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ken Dunn
Sent: den 27 september 2005 21:54
To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water
Heater


On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Well, in this case, there is not supposed to be any heat transfer
> through the PVC, so I wouldn't be worried about that.  I agree that
> metal would be better, it you can find some large diameter metal pipe
> for cheap.  What about just putting a coil of copper tubing in a big
> metal trash can?  Certainly not elegant, but it would be cheap, and
> require just about no manufacturing.

Well,  while I couldn't care much less about the elegance of the
installation, my kids are still young and I'd like to find someone to
buy my house when I'm ready to move into a smaller space.  Also, as
I've mentioned several times, I would like to help others with
solutions like solar hot water.  And frankly, I live in the U.S. where
things are supposed to be both sexy and puritanical simultaneously.  A
big metal trash can is neither.  Furthermore, I would like to continue
living in the house with my wife once its all said and done.  I'm
pretty sure that my wife would be just a bit leary of our drinking
water getting anywhere near a trash can.

Thanks,

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Kjell Lofgren
Ken,
do not use PVC for drinking water, the softener DEHP in the PVC
material is slowly leaking out and there is also other nonhealthy stuff
(chlorine!) in PVC.
Personally I would put my ? (or whatever) on stainless steel, 18/8
sounds nice to me, almost beautiful...




-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ken Dunn
Sent: den 27 september 2005 21:54
To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water
Heater


On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Well, in this case, there is not supposed to be any heat transfer
> through the PVC, so I wouldn't be worried about that.  I agree that
> metal would be better, it you can find some large diameter metal pipe
> for cheap.  What about just putting a coil of copper tubing in a big
> metal trash can?  Certainly not elegant, but it would be cheap, and
> require just about no manufacturing.

Well,  while I couldn't care much less about the elegance of the
installation, my kids are still young and I'd like to find someone to
buy my house when I'm ready to move into a smaller space.  Also, as
I've mentioned several times, I would like to help others with
solutions like solar hot water.  And frankly, I live in the U.S. where
things are supposed to be both sexy and puritanical simultaneously.  A
big metal trash can is neither.  Furthermore, I would like to continue
living in the house with my wife once its all said and done.  I'm
pretty sure that my wife would be just a bit leary of our drinking
water getting anywhere near a trash can.

Thanks,

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> If it is only the housing of 2 heat exchange loops,

This is the purpose.  I won't be using any plastic-like material to
exchange heat.  Sorry, if I didn't make that completely evident.

> why not use a steel drum, with copper tubing for the two loops. The
> cost should be close to the same, if you consider the material efficiency
> and corresponding amounts.

I may end up using a steel drum.  I'm try to find the best option to
match whatever materials that I can find locally.  For what it's
worth, there is an issue of space efficiency also.  The steel drum
might not meet those requirements.  Having the greatest number of
options at my disposal can only benefit me and anyone that might want
to the do same for themselves.

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Hakan Falk

PS,

Do not forget to insulate the steel drum well and maybe enhance the
looks that way.

Hakan


At 22:03 27/09/2005, you wrote:

>Ken,
>
>If it is a pure heat exchanger, you need more than double the surface
>for plastic, than for metal. This apart from the possible defects that
>can develop in plastics. If it is only the housing of 2 heat exchange loops,
>why not use a steel drum, with copper tubing for the two loops. The
>cost should be close to the same, if you consider the material efficiency
>and corresponding amounts.
>
>Hakan
>
>At 21:27 27/09/2005, you wrote:
> >On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > > It is the surface to the sun that is critical, so running C-PVC inside a
> > > a large copper tube could work, but why would we like to do that?
> > > Plastic is a very bad heat exchanger anyway, compared o copper.
> > >
> > > C-PVC is usable up to 95 to 99 degree, depending on type and
> > > quality.
> >
> >Hakan,
> >
> >The CPVC would only be used to house the heat exchanger which would be
> >in the basement.  All piping to, from and within the collector would
> >still be copper.  Besides, I'm still very much in the experimental
> >stage.
> >
> >Thanks for you comments,
> >Ken
>
>
>
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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Hakan Falk

Ken,

If it is a pure heat exchanger, you need more than double the surface
for plastic, than for metal. This apart from the possible defects that
can develop in plastics. If it is only the housing of 2 heat exchange loops,
why not use a steel drum, with copper tubing for the two loops. The
cost should be close to the same, if you consider the material efficiency
and corresponding amounts.

Hakan

At 21:27 27/09/2005, you wrote:
>On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > It is the surface to the sun that is critical, so running C-PVC inside a
> > a large copper tube could work, but why would we like to do that?
> > Plastic is a very bad heat exchanger anyway, compared o copper.
> >
> > C-PVC is usable up to 95 to 99 degree, depending on type and
> > quality.
>
>Hakan,
>
>The CPVC would only be used to house the heat exchanger which would be
>in the basement.  All piping to, from and within the collector would
>still be copper.  Besides, I'm still very much in the experimental
>stage.
>
>Thanks for you comments,
>Ken



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Well, in this case, there is not supposed to be any heat transfer
> through the PVC, so I wouldn't be worried about that.  I agree that
> metal would be better, it you can find some large diameter metal pipe
> for cheap.  What about just putting a coil of copper tubing in a big
> metal trash can?  Certainly not elegant, but it would be cheap, and
> require just about no manufacturing.

Well,  while I couldn't care much less about the elegance of the
installation, my kids are still young and I'd like to find someone to
buy my house when I'm ready to move into a smaller space.  Also, as
I've mentioned several times, I would like to help others with
solutions like solar hot water.  And frankly, I live in the U.S. where
things are supposed to be both sexy and puritanical simultaneously.  A
big metal trash can is neither.  Furthermore, I would like to continue
living in the house with my wife once its all said and done.  I'm
pretty sure that my wife would be just a bit leary of our drinking
water getting anywhere near a trash can.

Thanks,

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Zeke Yewdall
I agree, the gray stuff is just normal PVC, except that I think it has
flame retardant added for electrical conduit.  Darker colors will also
hold up to the sun somewhat better, but obviously not perfectly.

On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> David,
>
> I doubt it, since the plastic pipes are colored according to
> a system and gray is normal PVC. I have also seen those
> gray tubing exposed to the sun and the get discolored after
> a while, with fine cracks on the surface. Since this electrical
> tubing is an electrical insolation, it is no demands on holding
> of liquids. Most C-PVC I seen are for heated floor and they
> are transparent/yellow, if you ask me that have a slightly
> defect color seeing, as most men. If you want a more exact
> color, always ask a women.
>
> Hakan
>
>
> At 21:04 27/09/2005, you wrote:
> >Zeke Yewdall wrote:
> >
> > >You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
> > >heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
> > >should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
> > >diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
> > >water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.As I understood your
> > >idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
> > >submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?
> > >
> > >
> >
> >Isn't the gray plastic electrical conduit C-PVC?  Check with your local
> >electrical shop rather than your home depot.
> >
> >--- David
>
>
>
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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Hakan Falk

David,

I doubt it, since the plastic pipes are colored according to
a system and gray is normal PVC. I have also seen those
gray tubing exposed to the sun and the get discolored after
a while, with fine cracks on the surface. Since this electrical
tubing is an electrical insolation, it is no demands on holding
of liquids. Most C-PVC I seen are for heated floor and they
are transparent/yellow, if you ask me that have a slightly
defect color seeing, as most men. If you want a more exact
color, always ask a women.

Hakan


At 21:04 27/09/2005, you wrote:
>Zeke Yewdall wrote:
>
> >You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
> >heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
> >should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
> >diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
> >water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.As I understood your
> >idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
> >submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?
> >
> >
>
>Isn't the gray plastic electrical conduit C-PVC?  Check with your local
>electrical shop rather than your home depot.
>
>--- David



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Zeke Yewdall
Well, in this case, there is not supposed to be any heat transfer
through the PVC, so I wouldn't be worried about that.  I agree that
metal would be better, it you can find some large diameter metal pipe
for cheap.  What about just putting a coil of copper tubing in a big
metal trash can?  Certainly not elegant, but it would be cheap, and
require just about no manufacturing.

On the sunlight issue, the problem is that UV turns the surface of PVC
(and apparently CPVC) into a different chemical compound that is much
harder than PVC, but much more brittle.  It serves as a crack
initiator, and causes the entire thickness of PVC to crack easily,
even though only the very surface has actually been affected by the
sunlight.  If you sand the discoloured surface off, it regains it's
original plasticity because you have removed the crack initiator
layer.  This is from the Unibell PVC manufacturers association, that I
attended a workshop from.

On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Zeke,
>
> I would not use PVC or C-PVC at all, if I wanted a long term solution
> with a life span of more than a couple plus years. I used some spare
> C-PVC in a watering system, with some small parts open to the air and
> partially the sun. After 3-4 years they had hardened and started to crack.
> This despite the very low pressure in the watering system, comparable
> with an open solar system.
>
> It is the surface to the sun that is critical, so running C-PVC inside a
> a large copper tube could work, but why would we like to do that?
> Plastic is a very bad heat exchanger anyway, compared o copper.
>
> C-PVC is usable up to 95 to 99 degree, depending on type and
> quality.
>
> Hakan
>
>
> At 20:45 27/09/2005, you wrote:
> >You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
> >heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
> >should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
> >diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
> >water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.As I understood your
> >idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
> >submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?
> >
> >Zeke
> >
> >On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > >
> > > Ken,
> > >
> > > If you can use PVC pipe, your efficiency is very low to
> > > start with. Normal PVC starts to soften at 60 degree C
> > > and carbon reinforced ones at 95 degree C. The surface
> > > temperatures in normal copper based solar panels can
> > > be a few hundreds of degree C and it is always special
> > > soldering in them, otherwise the soldering will melt or
> > > degenerate.
> > >
> > > I would not recommend any plastics, if you cannot get
> > > the special ones that NASA uses. They are quite expensive,
> > > so do not forget to ask for a special discount, based on
> > > your good looks or intentions.
> > >
> > > Hakan
> > >
> > >
> > > At 20:04 27/09/2005, you wrote:
> > > >On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > > > Ken, why not use straight tubes (if you have the space), one tube
> > > > > length (20 feet?) in one direction and the next tube length running
> > > > > back? You could put your three (four?) tubes into each other both ways
> > > > > and have a U-bend and some interconnections in the far end. You get 
> > > > > all
> > > > > the in- and output in the nearest end of the tube package.
> > > >
> > > >This seems like a pretty good idea.  20 feet is much more space than I
> > > >have to offer but, I could probably figure out a way to contain a
> > > >tube-in-tube design inside a large diameter pvc pipe (6 ft long or so)
> > > >capped at both ends and plumbed to create a homemade shell and tube
> > > >heat exchanger.  I'll have to look at the economics of this design.
>
>
>
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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, David Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Isn't the gray plastic electrical conduit C-PVC?  Check with your local
> electrical shop rather than your home depot.

Is that safe for carrying drinking though?  If so, that's a good lead.
 I could always run my potable  water through the heat exchanger and
glycol through the PVC but, I definitely need to know what's healthy
and what's not.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> It is the surface to the sun that is critical, so running C-PVC inside a
> a large copper tube could work, but why would we like to do that?
> Plastic is a very bad heat exchanger anyway, compared o copper.
>
> C-PVC is usable up to 95 to 99 degree, depending on type and
> quality.

Hakan,

The CPVC would only be used to house the heat exchanger which would be
in the basement.  All piping to, from and within the collector would
still be copper.  Besides, I'm still very much in the experimental
stage.

Thanks for you comments,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Hakan Falk

Zeke,

I would not use PVC or C-PVC at all, if I wanted a long term solution
with a life span of more than a couple plus years. I used some spare
C-PVC in a watering system, with some small parts open to the air and
partially the sun. After 3-4 years they had hardened and started to crack.
This despite the very low pressure in the watering system, comparable
with an open solar system.

It is the surface to the sun that is critical, so running C-PVC inside a
a large copper tube could work, but why would we like to do that?
Plastic is a very bad heat exchanger anyway, compared o copper.

C-PVC is usable up to 95 to 99 degree, depending on type and
quality.

Hakan


At 20:45 27/09/2005, you wrote:
>You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
>heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
>should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
>diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
>water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.As I understood your
>idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
>submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?
>
>Zeke
>
>On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Ken,
> >
> > If you can use PVC pipe, your efficiency is very low to
> > start with. Normal PVC starts to soften at 60 degree C
> > and carbon reinforced ones at 95 degree C. The surface
> > temperatures in normal copper based solar panels can
> > be a few hundreds of degree C and it is always special
> > soldering in them, otherwise the soldering will melt or
> > degenerate.
> >
> > I would not recommend any plastics, if you cannot get
> > the special ones that NASA uses. They are quite expensive,
> > so do not forget to ask for a special discount, based on
> > your good looks or intentions.
> >
> > Hakan
> >
> >
> > At 20:04 27/09/2005, you wrote:
> > >On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > > Ken, why not use straight tubes (if you have the space), one tube
> > > > length (20 feet?) in one direction and the next tube length running
> > > > back? You could put your three (four?) tubes into each other both ways
> > > > and have a U-bend and some interconnections in the far end. You get all
> > > > the in- and output in the nearest end of the tube package.
> > >
> > >This seems like a pretty good idea.  20 feet is much more space than I
> > >have to offer but, I could probably figure out a way to contain a
> > >tube-in-tube design inside a large diameter pvc pipe (6 ft long or so)
> > >capped at both ends and plumbed to create a homemade shell and tube
> > >heat exchanger.  I'll have to look at the economics of this design.



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread David Miller
Zeke Yewdall wrote:

>You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
>heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
>should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
>diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
>water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.As I understood your
>idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
>submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?
>  
>

Isn't the gray plastic electrical conduit C-PVC?  Check with your local 
electrical shop rather than your home depot.

--- David

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
> heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
> should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
> diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
> water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.As I understood your
> idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
> submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?

Yes, that's one of the ideas that I would like to test.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Zeke Yewdall
You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.As I understood your
idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?

Zeke

On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> If you can use PVC pipe, your efficiency is very low to
> start with. Normal PVC starts to soften at 60 degree C
> and carbon reinforced ones at 95 degree C. The surface
> temperatures in normal copper based solar panels can
> be a few hundreds of degree C and it is always special
> soldering in them, otherwise the soldering will melt or
> degenerate.
>
> I would not recommend any plastics, if you cannot get
> the special ones that NASA uses. They are quite expensive,
> so do not forget to ask for a special discount, based on
> your good looks or intentions.
>
> Hakan
>
>
> At 20:04 27/09/2005, you wrote:
> >On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > > Ken, why not use straight tubes (if you have the space), one tube
> > > length (20 feet?) in one direction and the next tube length running
> > > back? You could put your three (four?) tubes into each other both ways
> > > and have a U-bend and some interconnections in the far end. You get all
> > > the in- and output in the nearest end of the tube package.
> >
> >This seems like a pretty good idea.  20 feet is much more space than I
> >have to offer but, I could probably figure out a way to contain a
> >tube-in-tube design inside a large diameter pvc pipe (6 ft long or so)
> >capped at both ends and plumbed to create a homemade shell and tube
> >heat exchanger.  I'll have to look at the economics of this design.
>
>
>
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>
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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Zeke Yewdall
>
> Is there a way to balance the PH of the glycol to extend the life of
> it?  I knew that there is maintenance.  I assumed I would have to
> periodically flush and replace.
>

Hmmm.  I'm not actually sure  :)  I know that it is recommended to
test it every two years, but no one actually said what to do if it had
gone bad...  replace it I guess?

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Recently (this spring I believe) Home Power Magazine had a series of
> articles with nice diagrams of all the various solar hot water
> systems, space heating and DHW, batch heating, closed loop, and open
> loop systems.  I'd recommend searching their archives, as these were
> the easiest to understand explanations that I'd seen in a while.

Yikes,  Zeke,

I can't look at another diagram until I get some work done.  I have
been reading endlessly, I think I might have seen every article in
Home Power, Mother Earth News, SRCC, FSEC, EERE, DOE, Billy Boy Joe
Bob's Ever-Expanding-Beer-Bottle system and more.  Somethin's gotta
get built.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Ken,
>
> If you can use PVC pipe, your efficiency is very low to
> start with. Normal PVC starts to soften at 60 degree C
> and carbon reinforced ones at 95 degree C. The surface
> temperatures in normal copper based solar panels can
> be a few hundreds of degree C and it is always special
> soldering in them, otherwise the soldering will melt or
> degenerate.
>
> I would not recommend any plastics, if you cannot get
> the special ones that NASA uses.

Thanks for his piece of information, I was not of heat sensivity of
PVC.  I thought that it was much more heat resistent.

>They are quite expensive,
> so do not forget to ask for a special discount, based on
> your good looks or intentions.

Has my mom been bragging about me again?

Thanks again,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Zeke Yewdall
Recently (this spring I believe) Home Power Magazine had a series of
articles with nice diagrams of all the various solar hot water
systems, space heating and DHW, batch heating, closed loop, and open
loop systems.  I'd recommend searching their archives, as these were
the easiest to understand explanations that I'd seen in a while.

Zeke

On 9/27/05, Ken Dunn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Tom,
>
> Does a drain down system simplify anything other than the heat
> exchanger and eliminate the use of glycol?  Or course, you're adding
> the drain down.  It almost seems like a wash (there is a pun in there
> somewhere, I'm sure).  I would like to use my solar hot water for
> space heating as well - either radiant heat or with a liquid to air
> heat exchanger and blower.  Either way, I think I'd prefer a closed
> loop so that I'm not pumping DHW through excessive piping.
>
> Am I missing something else?
>
> > If the goal is to keep it simple, do two things differently than you are
> > contemplating:
> > 1 - make your heat exchanger by putting multiple loops of coiled copper in a
> > polypropylene tank - at most you will need soldering skill if you want to
> > break up a 3/4 or 1" flow into multiple 1/2" coils (surface area = good).
> > One logical loop for (may be many loops of a smaller pipe diameter) for the
> > load (ie DHW or hydronic heat) and (2 below)
> >
> > 2 - use a "drain down" open system instead of  glycol. This allows you to
> > use water everywhere. A pump (not a circulator) pumps the water up to your
> > rooftop collectors when the system senses available heat (standard, cheap
> > solar differential controls) and gravity drains it down when the system is
> > not in use [this method requires that the panels be above the storage tank
> > and that the pipes exposed to freezing are graded towards the storage tank -
> > usually very easy to do] Note that the PP tank in step one above is the
> > drain down tank and storage tank for your hot water (they can be separated
> > if desired, and a larger tank/multiple tanks will provide additional
> > storage, which is the key to effective solar hydronic installations).
> >
> > So you end up with one (open system) tank full of hot water from the sun,
> > heating your coils of copper, containing the water from your (closed system)
> > DHW. Similar technique (add a logical coil) for the hyrdonic side. Just make
> > sure you don't always "preheat" your hydronic -sometimes the return water
> > from your heating system will be hotter than your solar storage - you need a
> > control to tell you whether there is heat available for the hyrdonic system
> > (not an issue for preheating DHW - your solar storage temp will be almost
> > always be above your groundwater temp).
> >
> > Tom
> > From: Ken Dunn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater
> > Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 09:53:41 -0400
> > To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
> >
> > Kjell,
> >
> > I will certainly give this a try for my own purposes, it seems simple
> > enough. But, I can operate a TIG and have access to one.
> > Unfortunately, a TIG welder and the associated experience are not
> > widely spread. I do want to keep this project as Appropriate as
> > possible. So, I'm trying to find materials that are as readily
> > available as possible. Also, I plan to use propolene glycol so, there
> > is the issue of double walls. I could certainly adapt this idea
> > accordingly. Its really too bad that brazing the plate together
> > wouldn't be sufficient - that would make it an easier DIY.
> >
> > Thanks a bunch,
> > Take care,
> > Ken
> >
> >
> >
> > On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren wrote:
> > >
> > > Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat exchanger
> > -
> > > more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding. Cut two equally sized
> > > pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about two dimples about 2 mm
> > SNIP
> >
> > Radiance Heating and Plumbing, Inc. (ROC 204149,204150)
> > Tom Scheel
> > 928-380-6294
> > ___
> > Biofuel mailing list
> > Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
> > http://sustainablelists.org/mailman/listinfo/biofuel_sustainablelists.org
> >
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> > http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html
> >
> > Search the combined Biofuel and Biofuels-biz list archives (50,000
> > messages):
> >

Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> If you are willing to use a pump instead of a circulator (much higher
> power draw is the problem,  if you are off grid), and take some care
> in sloping pipes and collectors properly, it is a bit simpler.  In
> addition, you avoid the issue of acidification of glycol, common in
> large closed loop systems that chronically stagnate in the summertime.

Is there a way to balance the PH of the glycol to extend the life of
it?  I knew that there is maintenance.  I assumed I would have to
periodically flush and replace.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Hakan Falk

Ken,

If you can use PVC pipe, your efficiency is very low to
start with. Normal PVC starts to soften at 60 degree C
and carbon reinforced ones at 95 degree C. The surface
temperatures in normal copper based solar panels can
be a few hundreds of degree C and it is always special
soldering in them, otherwise the soldering will melt or
degenerate.

I would not recommend any plastics, if you cannot get
the special ones that NASA uses. They are quite expensive,
so do not forget to ask for a special discount, based on
your good looks or intentions.

Hakan


At 20:04 27/09/2005, you wrote:
>On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Ken, why not use straight tubes (if you have the space), one tube
> > length (20 feet?) in one direction and the next tube length running
> > back? You could put your three (four?) tubes into each other both ways
> > and have a U-bend and some interconnections in the far end. You get all
> > the in- and output in the nearest end of the tube package.
>
>This seems like a pretty good idea.  20 feet is much more space than I
>have to offer but, I could probably figure out a way to contain a
>tube-in-tube design inside a large diameter pvc pipe (6 ft long or so)
>capped at both ends and plumbed to create a homemade shell and tube
>heat exchanger.  I'll have to look at the economics of this design.



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
Tom,

Does a drain down system simplify anything other than the heat
exchanger and eliminate the use of glycol?  Or course, you're adding
the drain down.  It almost seems like a wash (there is a pun in there
somewhere, I'm sure).  I would like to use my solar hot water for
space heating as well - either radiant heat or with a liquid to air
heat exchanger and blower.  Either way, I think I'd prefer a closed
loop so that I'm not pumping DHW through excessive piping.

Am I missing something else?

> If the goal is to keep it simple, do two things differently than you are
> contemplating:
> 1 - make your heat exchanger by putting multiple loops of coiled copper in a
> polypropylene tank - at most you will need soldering skill if you want to
> break up a 3/4 or 1" flow into multiple 1/2" coils (surface area = good).
> One logical loop for (may be many loops of a smaller pipe diameter) for the
> load (ie DHW or hydronic heat) and (2 below)
>
> 2 - use a "drain down" open system instead of  glycol. This allows you to
> use water everywhere. A pump (not a circulator) pumps the water up to your
> rooftop collectors when the system senses available heat (standard, cheap
> solar differential controls) and gravity drains it down when the system is
> not in use [this method requires that the panels be above the storage tank
> and that the pipes exposed to freezing are graded towards the storage tank -
> usually very easy to do] Note that the PP tank in step one above is the
> drain down tank and storage tank for your hot water (they can be separated
> if desired, and a larger tank/multiple tanks will provide additional
> storage, which is the key to effective solar hydronic installations).
>
> So you end up with one (open system) tank full of hot water from the sun,
> heating your coils of copper, containing the water from your (closed system)
> DHW. Similar technique (add a logical coil) for the hyrdonic side. Just make
> sure you don't always "preheat" your hydronic -sometimes the return water
> from your heating system will be hotter than your solar storage - you need a
> control to tell you whether there is heat available for the hyrdonic system
> (not an issue for preheating DHW - your solar storage temp will be almost
> always be above your groundwater temp).
>
> Tom
> From: Ken Dunn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater
> Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 09:53:41 -0400
> To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
>
> Kjell,
>
> I will certainly give this a try for my own purposes, it seems simple
> enough. But, I can operate a TIG and have access to one.
> Unfortunately, a TIG welder and the associated experience are not
> widely spread. I do want to keep this project as Appropriate as
> possible. So, I'm trying to find materials that are as readily
> available as possible. Also, I plan to use propolene glycol so, there
> is the issue of double walls. I could certainly adapt this idea
> accordingly. Its really too bad that brazing the plate together
> wouldn't be sufficient - that would make it an easier DIY.
>
> Thanks a bunch,
> Take care,
> Ken
>
>
>
> On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren wrote:
> >
> > Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat exchanger
> -
> > more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding. Cut two equally sized
> > pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about two dimples about 2 mm
> SNIP
>
> Radiance Heating and Plumbing, Inc. (ROC 204149,204150)
> Tom Scheel
> 928-380-6294
> ___
> Biofuel mailing list
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> http://sustainablelists.org/mailman/listinfo/biofuel_sustainablelists.org
>
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>
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> messages):
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>
>
>
>

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Zeke Yewdall
> 2 - use a "drain down" open system instead of  glycol. This allows you to
> use water everywhere. A pump (not a circulator) pumps the water up to your
> rooftop collectors when the system senses available heat (standard, cheap
> solar differential controls) and gravity drains it down when the system is
> not in use [this method requires that the panels be above the storage tank
> and that the pipes exposed to freezing are graded towards the storage tank -
> usually very easy to do] Note that the PP tank in step one above is the
> drain down tank and storage tank for your hot water (they can be separated
> if desired, and a larger tank/multiple tanks will provide additional
> storage, which is the key to effective solar hydronic installations).

If you are willing to use a pump instead of a circulator (much higher
power draw is the problem,  if you are off grid), and take some care
in sloping pipes and collectors properly, it is a bit simpler.  In
addition, you avoid the issue of acidification of glycol, common in
large closed loop systems that chronically stagnate in the summertime.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Ken, why not use straight tubes (if you have the space), one tube
> length (20 feet?) in one direction and the next tube length running
> back? You could put your three (four?) tubes into each other both ways
> and have a U-bend and some interconnections in the far end. You get all
> the in- and output in the nearest end of the tube package.

This seems like a pretty good idea.  20 feet is much more space than I
have to offer but, I could probably figure out a way to contain a
tube-in-tube design inside a large diameter pvc pipe (6 ft long or so)
capped at both ends and plumbed to create a homemade shell and tube
heat exchanger.  I'll have to look at the economics of this design.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Tom Scheel
If the goal is to keep it simple, do two things differently than you are contemplating:
1 - make your heat exchanger by putting multiple loops of coiled copper in a polypropylene tank - at most you will need soldering skill if you want to break up a 3/4 or 1" flow into multiple 1/2" coils (surface area = good). One logical loop for (may be many loops of a smaller pipe diameter) for the load (ie DHW or hydronic heat) and (2 below)
 
2 - use a "drain down" open system instead of  glycol. This allows you to use water everywhere. A pump (not a circulator) pumps the water up to your rooftop collectors when the system senses available heat (standard, cheap solar differential controls) and gravity drains it down when the system is not in use [this method requires that the panels be above the storage tank and that the pipes exposed to freezing are graded towards the storage tank - usually very easy to do] Note that the PP tank in step one above is the drain down tank and storage tank for your hot water (they can be separated if desired, and a larger tank/multiple tanks will provide additional storage, which is the key to effective solar hydronic installations).
So you end up with one (open system) tank full of hot water from the sun, heating your coils of copper, containing the water from your (closed system) DHW. Similar technique (add a logical coil) for the hyrdonic side. Just make sure you don't always "preheat" your hydronic -sometimes the return water from your heating system will be hotter than your solar storage - you need a control to tell you whether there is heat available for the hyrdonic system (not an issue for preheating DHW - your solar storage temp will be almost always be above your groundwater temp).
 
Tom
From: Ken Dunn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water HeaterDate: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 09:53:41 -0400To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.orgKjell,I will certainly give this a try for my own purposes, it seems simpleenough. But, I can operate a TIG and have access to one. Unfortunately, a TIG welder and the associated experience are notwidely spread. I do want to keep this project as Appropriate aspossible. So, I'm trying to find materials that are as readilyavailable as possible. Also, I plan to use propolene glycol so, thereis the issue of double walls. I could certainly adapt this ideaaccordingly. Its really too bad that brazing the plate togetherwouldn't be sufficient - that would make it an easier DIY.Thanks a bunch,Take care,KenOn 9/27/05, Kjell
 Löfgren <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>wrote:>> Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat exchanger -> more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding. Cut two equally sized> pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about two dimples about 2 mmSNIPRadiance Heating and Plumbing, Inc. (ROC 204149,204150)Tom Scheel928-380-6294___
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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Mike Weaver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hmm...what if you centered the smaller tube and held it in place with
> spacers, wax would work, and then filled it with fine grain sand, then
> bent it?

I'm sure it would,  I think someone had already mentioned a similar
technique.  I think I'd like to stear clear of the sand in case of a
major failure.  Wax or not, I don't want to be flushing my entire
system to get rid of unwanted sand.

Keep the ideas coming,
Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Joe Street




Hey Ken;

Liquids are almost uncompressable.  Fill the tube with water and put a
cap on each end with a compression fitting (swagelok etc) (underwater
of course no bubbles allowed - you could probaly fill the tube and then
tilt it up at one end and tape a bag around it with the tube poked
through and fill the bag with water to put the remaining cap on) and
then go ahead and bend your tubing.  I have not tried this but have
been told that it works.  Filling with sand can be a problem in getting
the sand out of the bend afterward.  With a reducing union it should be
able to be done with coaxial pipe as well.

Hope it helps.

Joe

Mike Weaver wrote:

  Maybe I'm losing my mind but I swear I used to have a kit w/ different 
head and a long bar that I used to bend copper pipe.  I remember it as being
very cheap (under 100.00 USD) at someplace like Norther Tool or Harbor 
Freight.  Of cource I haven't done any plumbing in over 20 years - maybe 
the don't make it any more.

-Mike

Kjell Löfgren wrote:

  
  
Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat 
exchanger - more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding.  Cut 
two equally sized pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about 
two dimples about 2 mm deep on every square 10 cm of the plate with a 
ball-peen(sp?) hammer (work on a wooden bench!). Weld the two plates 
together all around the edges with the sides with the raised dimples 
facing each other.
Grind away the weld and cone out openings for the short pieces of 
pipes where the fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The short 
pipe pieces are welded in place.
Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less 
than 0.05 kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to use 
clamps or something to hold the plates together or you end up with a 
pressurized 'football'!
Make two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage tank 
you use, you can connect them in series or in parallel as long as you 
avoid air pockets.
The size of the plates is as big as needed but keep in mind that these 
DIY units are not meant to be used with internal pressure!  Pressure 
can maybe be used inside the storage tank but the numbers of dimples 
have to be increased.
Also beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small 
pressure can add up to large forces and even blow the container!
 
Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is also 
needed - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you 
don't have the know-how.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

-Original Message-
*From:* [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]*On Behalf Of *Ken Dunn
*Sent:* den 24 september 2005 08:02
*To:* Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
    *Subject:* [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water
Heater

Hi all,

Sorry for the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in
archive searches...  Is there a home remedy to creating a double
wall heat exchange?  I have contemplated buying two sizes of
copper tubing, inserting the smaller inside the larger and bending
the two simultaneously.  I could see how the inner tubing might
kink or flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely unless I
tried to bend too tight of a radius.  Is there a better
home-builder solution?  Perhaps there is an affordable storage
tank commercially available that makes building a backyard heat
exchange mute anyway.?  I'm going to need to come up with a
storage tank anyway.  I understand the theoretical pros/cons to
internal and external heat exchanges but, what are the real-world
practical differences?

Thanks a bunch,
Take care,
Ken



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Kjell Löfgren
Ken, why not use straight tubes (if you have the space), one tube
length (20 feet?) in one direction and the next tube length running
back? You could put your three (four?) tubes into each other both ways
and have a U-bend and some interconnections in the far end. You get all
the in- and output in the nearest end of the tube package.
Slanting the two different tube branches can also support water
circulation.

And here is the place for brazing if you use copper tubes, brazing
stainless steel is inviting trouble...



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ken Dunn
Sent: den 27 september 2005 18:05
To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water
Heater


Mike,

the bending is not the problem so much as bending a tube inside a tube
without the inner tube flattening out or kinking.  Though, the more I
think about it, the inner tube, being smaller than the outter tube
will be less likely to kink than the outter purely by smaller diameter
and tighter bend radius.

Moreover, I talked to a fellow this weekend that told me to try
tightly wrapping the center tube with a heavy gauge, uninsulated wire
then insert it into the outter tube, this will make up some difference
in size and help to prevent kinking of the inner tube.  I'm going to
try this along with simply inserting the smaller tube inside the
larger and bending.  I had considered tube-in-tube-in-tube and running
hot propolene glycol and water, in opposite directions, through it.
I'm not sure that I'm still going to pursue that route except for
experimentation purposes.

Take care,
Ken

On 9/27/05, Mike Weaver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Maybe I'm losing my mind but I swear I used to have a kit w/
different
> head and a long bar that I used to bend copper pipe.  I remember it
as being
> very cheap (under 100.00 USD) at someplace like Norther Tool or
Harbor
> Freight.  Of cource I haven't done any plumbing in over 20 years -
maybe
> the don't make it any more.
>
> -Mike
>
> Kjell Löfgren wrote:
>
> > Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat
> > exchanger - more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding.
Cut
> > two equally sized pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make
about
> > two dimples about 2 mm deep on every square 10 cm of the plate with
a
> > ball-peen(sp?) hammer (work on a wooden bench!). Weld the two
plates
> > together all around the edges with the sides with the raised
dimples
> > facing each other.
> > Grind away the weld and cone out openings for the short pieces of
> > pipes where the fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The
short
> > pipe pieces are welded in place.
> > Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less
> > than 0.05 kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to
use
> > clamps or something to hold the plates together or you end up with
a
> > pressurized 'football'!
> > Make two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage
tank
> > you use, you can connect them in series or in parallel as long as
you
> > avoid air pockets.
> > The size of the plates is as big as needed but keep in mind that
these
> > DIY units are not meant to be used with internal pressure!
Pressure
> > can maybe be used inside the storage tank but the numbers of
dimples
> > have to be increased.
> > Also beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small
> > pressure can add up to large forces and even blow the container!
> >
> > Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is
also
> > needed - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you
> > don't have the know-how.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Mike Weaver
Hmm...what if you centered the smaller tube and held it in place with 
spacers, wax would work, and then filled it with fine grain sand, then 
bent it?

let me know how it goes...

-Mike

Ken Dunn wrote:

>Mike,
>
>the bending is not the problem so much as bending a tube inside a tube
>without the inner tube flattening out or kinking.  Though, the more I
>think about it, the inner tube, being smaller than the outter tube
>will be less likely to kink than the outter purely by smaller diameter
>and tighter bend radius.
>
>Moreover, I talked to a fellow this weekend that told me to try
>tightly wrapping the center tube with a heavy gauge, uninsulated wire
>then insert it into the outter tube, this will make up some difference
>in size and help to prevent kinking of the inner tube.  I'm going to
>try this along with simply inserting the smaller tube inside the
>larger and bending.  I had considered tube-in-tube-in-tube and running
>hot propolene glycol and water, in opposite directions, through it. 
>I'm not sure that I'm still going to pursue that route except for
>experimentation purposes.
>
>Take care,
>Ken
>
>On 9/27/05, Mike Weaver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>  
>
>>Maybe I'm losing my mind but I swear I used to have a kit w/ different
>>head and a long bar that I used to bend copper pipe.  I remember it as being
>>very cheap (under 100.00 USD) at someplace like Norther Tool or Harbor
>>Freight.  Of cource I haven't done any plumbing in over 20 years - maybe
>>the don't make it any more.
>>
>>-Mike
>>
>>Kjell Löfgren wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat
>>>exchanger - more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding.  Cut
>>>two equally sized pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about
>>>two dimples about 2 mm deep on every square 10 cm of the plate with a
>>>ball-peen(sp?) hammer (work on a wooden bench!). Weld the two plates
>>>together all around the edges with the sides with the raised dimples
>>>facing each other.
>>>Grind away the weld and cone out openings for the short pieces of
>>>pipes where the fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The short
>>>pipe pieces are welded in place.
>>>Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less
>>>than 0.05 kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to use
>>>clamps or something to hold the plates together or you end up with a
>>>pressurized 'football'!
>>>Make two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage tank
>>>you use, you can connect them in series or in parallel as long as you
>>>avoid air pockets.
>>>The size of the plates is as big as needed but keep in mind that these
>>>DIY units are not meant to be used with internal pressure!  Pressure
>>>can maybe be used inside the storage tank but the numbers of dimples
>>>have to be increased.
>>>Also beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small
>>>pressure can add up to large forces and even blow the container!
>>>
>>>Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is also
>>>needed - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you
>>>don't have the know-how.
>>>  
>>>
>
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>  
>


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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
Mike,

the bending is not the problem so much as bending a tube inside a tube
without the inner tube flattening out or kinking.  Though, the more I
think about it, the inner tube, being smaller than the outter tube
will be less likely to kink than the outter purely by smaller diameter
and tighter bend radius.

Moreover, I talked to a fellow this weekend that told me to try
tightly wrapping the center tube with a heavy gauge, uninsulated wire
then insert it into the outter tube, this will make up some difference
in size and help to prevent kinking of the inner tube.  I'm going to
try this along with simply inserting the smaller tube inside the
larger and bending.  I had considered tube-in-tube-in-tube and running
hot propolene glycol and water, in opposite directions, through it. 
I'm not sure that I'm still going to pursue that route except for
experimentation purposes.

Take care,
Ken

On 9/27/05, Mike Weaver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Maybe I'm losing my mind but I swear I used to have a kit w/ different
> head and a long bar that I used to bend copper pipe.  I remember it as being
> very cheap (under 100.00 USD) at someplace like Norther Tool or Harbor
> Freight.  Of cource I haven't done any plumbing in over 20 years - maybe
> the don't make it any more.
>
> -Mike
>
> Kjell Löfgren wrote:
>
> > Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat
> > exchanger - more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding.  Cut
> > two equally sized pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about
> > two dimples about 2 mm deep on every square 10 cm of the plate with a
> > ball-peen(sp?) hammer (work on a wooden bench!). Weld the two plates
> > together all around the edges with the sides with the raised dimples
> > facing each other.
> > Grind away the weld and cone out openings for the short pieces of
> > pipes where the fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The short
> > pipe pieces are welded in place.
> > Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less
> > than 0.05 kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to use
> > clamps or something to hold the plates together or you end up with a
> > pressurized 'football'!
> > Make two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage tank
> > you use, you can connect them in series or in parallel as long as you
> > avoid air pockets.
> > The size of the plates is as big as needed but keep in mind that these
> > DIY units are not meant to be used with internal pressure!  Pressure
> > can maybe be used inside the storage tank but the numbers of dimples
> > have to be increased.
> > Also beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small
> > pressure can add up to large forces and even blow the container!
> >
> > Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is also
> > needed - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you
> > don't have the know-how.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Mike Weaver
Maybe I'm losing my mind but I swear I used to have a kit w/ different 
head and a long bar that I used to bend copper pipe.  I remember it as being
very cheap (under 100.00 USD) at someplace like Norther Tool or Harbor 
Freight.  Of cource I haven't done any plumbing in over 20 years - maybe 
the don't make it any more.

-Mike

Kjell Löfgren wrote:

> Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat 
> exchanger - more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding.  Cut 
> two equally sized pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about 
> two dimples about 2 mm deep on every square 10 cm of the plate with a 
> ball-peen(sp?) hammer (work on a wooden bench!). Weld the two plates 
> together all around the edges with the sides with the raised dimples 
> facing each other.
> Grind away the weld and cone out openings for the short pieces of 
> pipes where the fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The short 
> pipe pieces are welded in place.
> Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less 
> than 0.05 kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to use 
> clamps or something to hold the plates together or you end up with a 
> pressurized 'football'!
> Make two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage tank 
> you use, you can connect them in series or in parallel as long as you 
> avoid air pockets.
> The size of the plates is as big as needed but keep in mind that these 
> DIY units are not meant to be used with internal pressure!  Pressure 
> can maybe be used inside the storage tank but the numbers of dimples 
> have to be increased.
> Also beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small 
> pressure can add up to large forces and even blow the container!
>  
> Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is also 
> needed - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you 
> don't have the know-how.
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>
> -Original Message-
> *From:* [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of *Ken Dunn
> *Sent:* den 24 september 2005 08:02
> *To:* Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
> *Subject:* [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water
> Heater
>
> Hi all,
>
> Sorry for the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in
> archive searches...  Is there a home remedy to creating a double
> wall heat exchange?  I have contemplated buying two sizes of
> copper tubing, inserting the smaller inside the larger and bending
> the two simultaneously.  I could see how the inner tubing might
> kink or flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely unless I
> tried to bend too tight of a radius.  Is there a better
> home-builder solution?  Perhaps there is an affordable storage
> tank commercially available that makes building a backyard heat
> exchange mute anyway.?  I'm going to need to come up with a
> storage tank anyway.  I understand the theoretical pros/cons to
> internal and external heat exchanges but, what are the real-world
> practical differences?
>
> Thanks a bunch,
> Take care,
> Ken
>
>
>
>___
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>
>Search the combined Biofuel and Biofuels-biz list archives (50,000 messages):
>http://www.mail-archive.com/biofuel@sustainablelists.org/
>
>  
>


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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
Kjell,

I will certainly give this a try for my own purposes, it seems simple
enough.  But, I can operate a TIG and have access to one. 
Unfortunately, a TIG welder and the associated experience are not
widely spread.  I do want to keep this project as Appropriate as
possible.  So, I'm trying to find materials that are as readily
available as possible.  Also, I plan to use propolene glycol so, there
is the issue of double walls.  I could certainly adapt this idea
accordingly.  Its really too bad that brazing the plate together
wouldn't be sufficient - that would make it an easier DIY.

Thanks a bunch,
Take care,
Ken



On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat exchanger -
> more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding.  Cut two equally sized
> pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate.  Make about two dimples about 2 mm
> deep on every square 10 cm of the plate with a ball-peen(sp?) hammer (work
> on a wooden bench!). Weld the two plates together all around the edges with
> the sides with the raised dimples facing each other.
> Grind away the weld and cone out openings for the short pieces of pipes
> where the fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The short pipe pieces
> are welded in place.
> Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less than 0.05
> kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to use clamps or
> something to hold the plates together or you end up with a pressurized
> 'football'!
> Make two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage tank you
> use, you can connect them in series or in parallel as long as you avoid air
> pockets.
> The size of the plates is as big as needed but keep in mind that these DIY
> units are not meant to be used with internal pressure!  Pressure can maybe
> be used inside the storage tank but the numbers of dimples have to be
> increased.
> Also beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small pressure can
> add up to large forces and even blow the container!
>
> Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is also needed
> - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you don't have the
> know-how.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Kjell Löfgren



Ken, 
to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat exchanger - 
more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding.  Cut two equally 
sized pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about two dimples 
about 2 mm deep on every square 10 cm of the plate with a ball-peen(sp?) 
hammer (work on a wooden bench!). Weld the two plates together all around the 
edges with the sides with the raised dimples facing each 
other.
Grind 
away the weld and cone out openings for the short pieces of pipes where the 
fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The short pipe pieces 
are welded in place.
Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less 
than 0.05 kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to use 
clamps or something to hold the plates together or you end up with a pressurized 
'football'!
Make 
two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage tank you use, you 
can connect them in series or in parallel as long as you avoid air 
pockets.
The 
size of the plates is as big as needed but keep in mind 
that these DIY units are not meant to be used with internal 
pressure!  Pressure can maybe be used inside the storage tank but the 
numbers of dimples have to be increased. 
Also 
beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small pressure can add up to 
large forces and even blow the container!
 
Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is also 
needed - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you 
don't have the know-how.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Ken 
  DunnSent: den 24 september 2005 08:02To: 
  Biofuel@sustainablelists.orgSubject: [Biofuel] Double wall heat 
  exchange - Solar Hot Water HeaterHi all,Sorry for 
  the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in archive searches...  
  Is there a home remedy to creating a double wall heat exchange?  I have 
  contemplated buying two sizes of copper tubing, inserting the smaller inside 
  the larger and bending the two simultaneously.  I could see how the inner 
  tubing might kink or flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely unless I 
  tried to bend too tight of a radius.  Is there a better home-builder 
  solution?  Perhaps there is an affordable storage tank commercially 
  available that makes building a backyard heat exchange mute anyway.?  I'm 
  going to need to come up with a storage tank anyway.  I understand the 
  theoretical pros/cons to internal and external heat exchanges but, what are 
  the real-world practical differences?Thanks a bunch,Take 
  care,Ken
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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-25 Thread John Mullan
Very nice.  Please share your results during your progress.

Cheers

On 9/25/2005, "Ken Dunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>Thanks, everyone, for the advice. I went to the PA Energy Fest yesterday and
>talked to experienced folks there as well. I got some ideas how to
>incorporate some the concepts mentioned in this thread and also some others..
>I'm going to experiment on a smaller scale and design my heat exchange
>accordingly.
>
>Thanks again for the input,
>Take care,
>Ken
>
>


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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-25 Thread Ken Dunn
Thanks, everyone, for the advice.  I went to the PA Energy Fest
yesterday and talked to experienced folks there as well.  I got
some ideas how to incorporate some the concepts mentioned in this
thread and also some others.  I'm going to experiment on a smaller
scale and design my heat exchange accordingly.

Thanks again for the input,
Take care,
Ken
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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-24 Thread Mike Weaver
Mandrel benders are cheap most places and will do the same thing better...

Darryl McMahon wrote:

>Ken wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Hi all,
>>
>>Sorry for the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in archive
>>searches... Is there a home remedy to creating a double wall heat exchange?
>>I have contemplated buying two sizes of copper tubing, inserting the smaller
>>inside the larger and bending the two simultaneously. I could see how the
>>inner tubing might kink or flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely
>>unless I tried to bend too tight of a radius. Is there a better home-builder
>>solution? Perhaps there is an affordable storage tank commercially available
>>that makes building a backyard heat exchange mute anyway.? I'm going to need
>>to come up with a storage tank anyway. I understand the theoretical
>>pros/cons to internal and external heat exchanges but, what are the
>>real-world practical differences?
>>
>>
>>
>
>Disclaimer - I have not tried this myself.
>I have read (somewhere) that if you start with straight tubing, then pack sand 
>between the two tubes before making your bends, this will avoid/ reduce 
>kinking in 
>the inner tube.  Of course, the trick is probably getting all the sand out 
>again 
>before plumbing this new arrangement into the lines.  
>
>If I end up going this route (double-wall) some day in the future, I think I 
>will 
>put two coils into an exchange tank instead.  One coil provides the heat input 
>from 
>the solar collectors, the other coil provides the heat input to the 
>conventional 
>hot water tank.  The tank will have a sealable lid, and a lot of insulation.  
>Both 
>coils will be immersed in water in the tank.  This way, the lid can be removed 
>for 
>inspections, and the coils can be removed fairly easily for repairs.
>
>To date, my solar water pre-heaters are in-line, so no heat exhangers required.
>
>Darryl McMahon
>  
>


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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-24 Thread Darryl McMahon
Ken wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> Sorry for the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in archive
> searches... Is there a home remedy to creating a double wall heat exchange?
> I have contemplated buying two sizes of copper tubing, inserting the smaller
> inside the larger and bending the two simultaneously. I could see how the
> inner tubing might kink or flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely
> unless I tried to bend too tight of a radius. Is there a better home-builder
> solution? Perhaps there is an affordable storage tank commercially available
> that makes building a backyard heat exchange mute anyway.? I'm going to need
> to come up with a storage tank anyway. I understand the theoretical
> pros/cons to internal and external heat exchanges but, what are the
> real-world practical differences?
> 

Disclaimer - I have not tried this myself.
I have read (somewhere) that if you start with straight tubing, then pack sand 
between the two tubes before making your bends, this will avoid/ reduce kinking 
in 
the inner tube.  Of course, the trick is probably getting all the sand out 
again 
before plumbing this new arrangement into the lines.  

If I end up going this route (double-wall) some day in the future, I think I 
will 
put two coils into an exchange tank instead.  One coil provides the heat input 
from 
the solar collectors, the other coil provides the heat input to the 
conventional 
hot water tank.  The tank will have a sealable lid, and a lot of insulation.  
Both 
coils will be immersed in water in the tank.  This way, the lid can be removed 
for 
inspections, and the coils can be removed fairly easily for repairs.

To date, my solar water pre-heaters are in-line, so no heat exhangers required.

Darryl McMahon
-- 
Darryl McMahon  http://www.econogics.com/
It's your planet.  If you won't look after it, who will?



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-24 Thread Zeke Yewdall
Commerciall tanks tend to be pretty expensive.  I have heard of people
doing as John says with two diameters of pipe.  I think there is also
a company that makes just double wall heat exhangers that you can buy
by the foot.  I can't remember the name, but they usually have an ad
in Home Power mazagine, which you can download from their website for
free and look for the ad.  www.homewpower.com

On 9/24/05, John Mullan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I know Rheem makes (or made) a domestic HW tank that had an internal heat
> exchange coil.  Presumably made for solar heat.  I was examining it a
> while back.  However, being in Canada the Canadian branch did not carry
> it.
>
> I have seen others build their own exchangers using solid copper pipe,
> utilizing reducers to actually position smaller diameter pipe inside the
> larger diameter pipe.  The reducers were installed backwards such that
> the small end pointed into the larger pipe.  I may have the picture
> files (assuming I saved them).  If interested I'll try to locate them.
>
> John
>
>
> On 9/24/2005, "Ken Dunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> >Hi all,
> >
> >Sorry for the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in archive
> >searches... Is there a home remedy to creating a double wall heat exchange?
> >I have contemplated buying two sizes of copper tubing, inserting the smaller
> >inside the larger and bending the two simultaneously. I could see how the
> >inner tubing might kink or flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely
> >unless I tried to bend too tight of a radius. Is there a better home-builder
> >solution? Perhaps there is an affordable storage tank commercially available
> >that makes building a backyard heat exchange mute anyway.? I'm going to need
> >to come up with a storage tank anyway. I understand the theoretical
> >pros/cons to internal and external heat exchanges but, what are the
> >real-world practical differences?
> >
> >Thanks a bunch,
> >Take care,
> >Ken
> >
> >
>
>
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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-24 Thread John Mullan
I know Rheem makes (or made) a domestic HW tank that had an internal heat
exchange coil.  Presumably made for solar heat.  I was examining it a
while back.  However, being in Canada the Canadian branch did not carry
it.

I have seen others build their own exchangers using solid copper pipe,
utilizing reducers to actually position smaller diameter pipe inside the
larger diameter pipe.  The reducers were installed backwards such that
the small end pointed into the larger pipe.  I may have the picture
files (assuming I saved them).  If interested I'll try to locate them.

John


On 9/24/2005, "Ken Dunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>Sorry for the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in archive
>searches... Is there a home remedy to creating a double wall heat exchange?
>I have contemplated buying two sizes of copper tubing, inserting the smaller
>inside the larger and bending the two simultaneously. I could see how the
>inner tubing might kink or flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely
>unless I tried to bend too tight of a radius. Is there a better home-builder
>solution? Perhaps there is an affordable storage tank commercially available
>that makes building a backyard heat exchange mute anyway.? I'm going to need
>to come up with a storage tank anyway. I understand the theoretical
>pros/cons to internal and external heat exchanges but, what are the
>real-world practical differences?
>
>Thanks a bunch,
>Take care,
>Ken
>
>


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[Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-23 Thread Ken Dunn
Hi all,

Sorry for the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in archive
searches...  Is there a home remedy to creating a double wall heat
exchange?  I have contemplated buying two sizes of copper tubing,
inserting the smaller inside the larger and bending the two
simultaneously.  I could see how the inner tubing might kink or
flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely unless I tried to bend
too tight of a radius.  Is there a better home-builder
solution?  Perhaps there is an affordable storage tank
commercially available that makes building a backyard heat exchange
mute anyway.?  I'm going to need to come up with a storage tank
anyway.  I understand the theoretical pros/cons to internal and
external heat exchanges but, what are the real-world practical
differences?

Thanks a bunch,
Take care,
Ken
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