Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-28 Thread Kjell Lofgren
Well ASCII isn't always ASCII, the question mark in the sentence
Personally I would put my ? (or whatever) on stainless steel... was
the monetary symbol for EURO...
Sorry for messing up.



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kjell Lofgren
Sent: den 28 september 2005 07:19
To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water
Heater


Ken,
do not use PVC for drinking water, the softener DEHP in the PVC
material is slowly leaking out and there is also other nonhealthy stuff
(chlorine!) in PVC.
Personally I would put my ? (or whatever) on stainless steel, 18/8
sounds nice to me, almost beautiful...




-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ken Dunn
Sent: den 27 september 2005 21:54
To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water
Heater


On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Well, in this case, there is not supposed to be any heat transfer
 through the PVC, so I wouldn't be worried about that.  I agree that
 metal would be better, it you can find some large diameter metal pipe
 for cheap.  What about just putting a coil of copper tubing in a big
 metal trash can?  Certainly not elegant, but it would be cheap, and
 require just about no manufacturing.

Well,  while I couldn't care much less about the elegance of the
installation, my kids are still young and I'd like to find someone to
buy my house when I'm ready to move into a smaller space.  Also, as
I've mentioned several times, I would like to help others with
solutions like solar hot water.  And frankly, I live in the U.S. where
things are supposed to be both sexy and puritanical simultaneously.  A
big metal trash can is neither.  Furthermore, I would like to continue
living in the house with my wife once its all said and done.  I'm
pretty sure that my wife would be just a bit leary of our drinking
water getting anywhere near a trash can.

Thanks,

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Kjell Löfgren



Ken, 
to avoid the tube bending business you canuse a plate heat exchanger - 
more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding. Cut two equally 
sizedpieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about twodimples 
about 2 mm deep on every square 10 cm of the platewith a ball-peen(sp?) 
hammer (work on a wooden bench!). Weld the two plates together all around the 
edges with the sides with the raised dimples facing each 
other.
Grind 
away the weld and cone out openings forthe short pieces of pipes where the 
fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The short pipe pieces 
arewelded in place.
Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less 
than0.05 kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to use 
clamps or something to hold the plates together or you end up with a pressurized 
'football'!
Make 
two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage tank you use, you 
can connect them in series or in parallel as long as you avoid air 
pockets.
The 
size of the platesis as big as needed butkeep in mind 
thatthese DIY units are not meant to be used with internal 
pressure! Pressure can maybe be usedinside the storage tank but the 
numbers of dimples have to be increased. 
Also 
beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small pressure can add up to 
large forces and even blow the container!

Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is also 
needed - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you 
don'thave the know-how.








  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Ken 
  DunnSent: den 24 september 2005 08:02To: 
  Biofuel@sustainablelists.orgSubject: [Biofuel] Double wall heat 
  exchange - Solar Hot Water HeaterHi all,Sorry for 
  the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in archive searches... 
  Is there a home remedy to creating a double wall heat exchange? I have 
  contemplated buying two sizes of copper tubing, inserting the smaller inside 
  the larger and bending the two simultaneously. I could see how the inner 
  tubing might kink or flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely unless I 
  tried to bend too tight of a radius. Is there a better home-builder 
  solution? Perhaps there is an affordable storage tank commercially 
  available that makes building a backyard heat exchange mute anyway.? I'm 
  going to need to come up with a storage tank anyway. I understand the 
  theoretical pros/cons to internal and external heat exchanges but, what are 
  the real-world practical differences?Thanks a bunch,Take 
  care,Ken
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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
Kjell,

I will certainly give this a try for my own purposes, it seems simple
enough.  But, I can operate a TIG and have access to one. 
Unfortunately, a TIG welder and the associated experience are not
widely spread.  I do want to keep this project as Appropriate as
possible.  So, I'm trying to find materials that are as readily
available as possible.  Also, I plan to use propolene glycol so, there
is the issue of double walls.  I could certainly adapt this idea
accordingly.  Its really too bad that brazing the plate together
wouldn't be sufficient - that would make it an easier DIY.

Thanks a bunch,
Take care,
Ken



On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat exchanger -
 more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding.  Cut two equally sized
 pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate.  Make about two dimples about 2 mm
 deep on every square 10 cm of the plate with a ball-peen(sp?) hammer (work
 on a wooden bench!). Weld the two plates together all around the edges with
 the sides with the raised dimples facing each other.
 Grind away the weld and cone out openings for the short pieces of pipes
 where the fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The short pipe pieces
 are welded in place.
 Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less than 0.05
 kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to use clamps or
 something to hold the plates together or you end up with a pressurized
 'football'!
 Make two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage tank you
 use, you can connect them in series or in parallel as long as you avoid air
 pockets.
 The size of the plates is as big as needed but keep in mind that these DIY
 units are not meant to be used with internal pressure!  Pressure can maybe
 be used inside the storage tank but the numbers of dimples have to be
 increased.
 Also beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small pressure can
 add up to large forces and even blow the container!

 Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is also needed
 - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you don't have the
 know-how.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Mike Weaver
Maybe I'm losing my mind but I swear I used to have a kit w/ different 
head and a long bar that I used to bend copper pipe.  I remember it as being
very cheap (under 100.00 USD) at someplace like Norther Tool or Harbor 
Freight.  Of cource I haven't done any plumbing in over 20 years - maybe 
the don't make it any more.

-Mike

Kjell Löfgren wrote:

 Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat 
 exchanger - more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding.  Cut 
 two equally sized pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about 
 two dimples about 2 mm deep on every square 10 cm of the plate with a 
 ball-peen(sp?) hammer (work on a wooden bench!). Weld the two plates 
 together all around the edges with the sides with the raised dimples 
 facing each other.
 Grind away the weld and cone out openings for the short pieces of 
 pipes where the fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The short 
 pipe pieces are welded in place.
 Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less 
 than 0.05 kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to use 
 clamps or something to hold the plates together or you end up with a 
 pressurized 'football'!
 Make two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage tank 
 you use, you can connect them in series or in parallel as long as you 
 avoid air pockets.
 The size of the plates is as big as needed but keep in mind that these 
 DIY units are not meant to be used with internal pressure!  Pressure 
 can maybe be used inside the storage tank but the numbers of dimples 
 have to be increased.
 Also beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small 
 pressure can add up to large forces and even blow the container!
  
 Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is also 
 needed - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you 
 don't have the know-how.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

 -Original Message-
 *From:* [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of *Ken Dunn
 *Sent:* den 24 september 2005 08:02
 *To:* Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 *Subject:* [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water
 Heater

 Hi all,

 Sorry for the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in
 archive searches...  Is there a home remedy to creating a double
 wall heat exchange?  I have contemplated buying two sizes of
 copper tubing, inserting the smaller inside the larger and bending
 the two simultaneously.  I could see how the inner tubing might
 kink or flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely unless I
 tried to bend too tight of a radius.  Is there a better
 home-builder solution?  Perhaps there is an affordable storage
 tank commercially available that makes building a backyard heat
 exchange mute anyway.?  I'm going to need to come up with a
 storage tank anyway.  I understand the theoretical pros/cons to
 internal and external heat exchanges but, what are the real-world
 practical differences?

 Thanks a bunch,
 Take care,
 Ken



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
Mike,

the bending is not the problem so much as bending a tube inside a tube
without the inner tube flattening out or kinking.  Though, the more I
think about it, the inner tube, being smaller than the outter tube
will be less likely to kink than the outter purely by smaller diameter
and tighter bend radius.

Moreover, I talked to a fellow this weekend that told me to try
tightly wrapping the center tube with a heavy gauge, uninsulated wire
then insert it into the outter tube, this will make up some difference
in size and help to prevent kinking of the inner tube.  I'm going to
try this along with simply inserting the smaller tube inside the
larger and bending.  I had considered tube-in-tube-in-tube and running
hot propolene glycol and water, in opposite directions, through it. 
I'm not sure that I'm still going to pursue that route except for
experimentation purposes.

Take care,
Ken

On 9/27/05, Mike Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Maybe I'm losing my mind but I swear I used to have a kit w/ different
 head and a long bar that I used to bend copper pipe.  I remember it as being
 very cheap (under 100.00 USD) at someplace like Norther Tool or Harbor
 Freight.  Of cource I haven't done any plumbing in over 20 years - maybe
 the don't make it any more.

 -Mike

 Kjell Löfgren wrote:

  Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat
  exchanger - more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding.  Cut
  two equally sized pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about
  two dimples about 2 mm deep on every square 10 cm of the plate with a
  ball-peen(sp?) hammer (work on a wooden bench!). Weld the two plates
  together all around the edges with the sides with the raised dimples
  facing each other.
  Grind away the weld and cone out openings for the short pieces of
  pipes where the fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The short
  pipe pieces are welded in place.
  Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less
  than 0.05 kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to use
  clamps or something to hold the plates together or you end up with a
  pressurized 'football'!
  Make two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage tank
  you use, you can connect them in series or in parallel as long as you
  avoid air pockets.
  The size of the plates is as big as needed but keep in mind that these
  DIY units are not meant to be used with internal pressure!  Pressure
  can maybe be used inside the storage tank but the numbers of dimples
  have to be increased.
  Also beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small
  pressure can add up to large forces and even blow the container!
 
  Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is also
  needed - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you
  don't have the know-how.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Mike Weaver
Hmm...what if you centered the smaller tube and held it in place with 
spacers, wax would work, and then filled it with fine grain sand, then 
bent it?

let me know how it goes...

-Mike

Ken Dunn wrote:

Mike,

the bending is not the problem so much as bending a tube inside a tube
without the inner tube flattening out or kinking.  Though, the more I
think about it, the inner tube, being smaller than the outter tube
will be less likely to kink than the outter purely by smaller diameter
and tighter bend radius.

Moreover, I talked to a fellow this weekend that told me to try
tightly wrapping the center tube with a heavy gauge, uninsulated wire
then insert it into the outter tube, this will make up some difference
in size and help to prevent kinking of the inner tube.  I'm going to
try this along with simply inserting the smaller tube inside the
larger and bending.  I had considered tube-in-tube-in-tube and running
hot propolene glycol and water, in opposite directions, through it. 
I'm not sure that I'm still going to pursue that route except for
experimentation purposes.

Take care,
Ken

On 9/27/05, Mike Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  

Maybe I'm losing my mind but I swear I used to have a kit w/ different
head and a long bar that I used to bend copper pipe.  I remember it as being
very cheap (under 100.00 USD) at someplace like Norther Tool or Harbor
Freight.  Of cource I haven't done any plumbing in over 20 years - maybe
the don't make it any more.

-Mike

Kjell Löfgren wrote:



Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat
exchanger - more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding.  Cut
two equally sized pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about
two dimples about 2 mm deep on every square 10 cm of the plate with a
ball-peen(sp?) hammer (work on a wooden bench!). Weld the two plates
together all around the edges with the sides with the raised dimples
facing each other.
Grind away the weld and cone out openings for the short pieces of
pipes where the fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The short
pipe pieces are welded in place.
Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less
than 0.05 kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to use
clamps or something to hold the plates together or you end up with a
pressurized 'football'!
Make two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage tank
you use, you can connect them in series or in parallel as long as you
avoid air pockets.
The size of the plates is as big as needed but keep in mind that these
DIY units are not meant to be used with internal pressure!  Pressure
can maybe be used inside the storage tank but the numbers of dimples
have to be increased.
Also beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small
pressure can add up to large forces and even blow the container!

Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is also
needed - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you
don't have the know-how.
  


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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Kjell Löfgren
Ken, why not use straight tubes (if you have the space), one tube
length (20 feet?) in one direction and the next tube length running
back? You could put your three (four?) tubes into each other both ways
and have a U-bend and some interconnections in the far end. You get all
the in- and output in the nearest end of the tube package.
Slanting the two different tube branches can also support water
circulation.

And here is the place for brazing if you use copper tubes, brazing
stainless steel is inviting trouble...



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ken Dunn
Sent: den 27 september 2005 18:05
To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water
Heater


Mike,

the bending is not the problem so much as bending a tube inside a tube
without the inner tube flattening out or kinking.  Though, the more I
think about it, the inner tube, being smaller than the outter tube
will be less likely to kink than the outter purely by smaller diameter
and tighter bend radius.

Moreover, I talked to a fellow this weekend that told me to try
tightly wrapping the center tube with a heavy gauge, uninsulated wire
then insert it into the outter tube, this will make up some difference
in size and help to prevent kinking of the inner tube.  I'm going to
try this along with simply inserting the smaller tube inside the
larger and bending.  I had considered tube-in-tube-in-tube and running
hot propolene glycol and water, in opposite directions, through it.
I'm not sure that I'm still going to pursue that route except for
experimentation purposes.

Take care,
Ken

On 9/27/05, Mike Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Maybe I'm losing my mind but I swear I used to have a kit w/
different
 head and a long bar that I used to bend copper pipe.  I remember it
as being
 very cheap (under 100.00 USD) at someplace like Norther Tool or
Harbor
 Freight.  Of cource I haven't done any plumbing in over 20 years -
maybe
 the don't make it any more.

 -Mike

 Kjell Löfgren wrote:

  Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat
  exchanger - more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding.
Cut
  two equally sized pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make
about
  two dimples about 2 mm deep on every square 10 cm of the plate with
a
  ball-peen(sp?) hammer (work on a wooden bench!). Weld the two
plates
  together all around the edges with the sides with the raised
dimples
  facing each other.
  Grind away the weld and cone out openings for the short pieces of
  pipes where the fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The
short
  pipe pieces are welded in place.
  Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less
  than 0.05 kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to
use
  clamps or something to hold the plates together or you end up with
a
  pressurized 'football'!
  Make two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage
tank
  you use, you can connect them in series or in parallel as long as
you
  avoid air pockets.
  The size of the plates is as big as needed but keep in mind that
these
  DIY units are not meant to be used with internal pressure!
Pressure
  can maybe be used inside the storage tank but the numbers of
dimples
  have to be increased.
  Also beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small
  pressure can add up to large forces and even blow the container!
 
  Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is
also
  needed - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you
  don't have the know-how.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Joe Street




Hey Ken;

Liquids are almost uncompressable. Fill the tube with water and put a
cap on each end with a compression fitting (swagelok etc) (underwater
of course no bubbles allowed - you could probaly fill the tube and then
tilt it up at one end and tape a bag around it with the tube poked
through and fill the bag with water to put the remaining cap on) and
then go ahead and bend your tubing. I have not tried this but have
been told that it works. Filling with sand can be a problem in getting
the sand out of the bend afterward. With a reducing union it should be
able to be done with coaxial pipe as well.

Hope it helps.

Joe

Mike Weaver wrote:

  Maybe I'm losing my mind but I swear I used to have a kit w/ different 
head and a long bar that I used to bend copper pipe.  I remember it as being
very cheap (under 100.00 USD) at someplace like Norther Tool or Harbor 
Freight.  Of cource I haven't done any plumbing in over 20 years - maybe 
the don't make it any more.

-Mike

Kjell Lfgren wrote:

  
  
Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat 
exchanger - more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding.  Cut 
two equally sized pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about 
two dimples about 2 mm deep on every square 10 cm of the plate with a 
ball-peen(sp?) hammer (work on a wooden bench!). Weld the two plates 
together all around the edges with the sides with the raised dimples 
facing each other.
Grind away the weld and cone out openings for the short pieces of 
pipes where the fluid goes in and out (on opposite corners). The short 
pipe pieces are welded in place.
Carefully pressurize the unit with very low air pressure - less 
than 0.05 kg/cm2 - and test for leaks with soap water, remember to use 
clamps or something to hold the plates together or you end up with a 
pressurized 'football'!
Make two or more of these units and submerge in whatever storage tank 
you use, you can connect them in series or in parallel as long as you 
avoid air pockets.
The size of the plates is as big as needed but keep in mind that these 
DIY units are not meant to be used with internal pressure!  Pressure 
can maybe be used inside the storage tank but the numbers of dimples 
have to be increased.
Also beware of air pressure in large containers - even a small 
pressure can add up to large forces and even blow the container!
 
Stainless steel rods for welding and a TIG welding equipment is also 
needed - a skilled TIG welding buddy will make things easier if you 
don't have the know-how.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

-Original Message-
*From:* [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]*On Behalf Of *Ken Dunn
*Sent:* den 24 september 2005 08:02
*To:* Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
*Subject:* [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water
Heater

Hi all,

Sorry for the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in
archive searches...  Is there a home remedy to creating a double
wall heat exchange?  I have contemplated buying two sizes of
copper tubing, inserting the smaller inside the larger and bending
the two simultaneously.  I could see how the inner tubing might
kink or flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely unless I
tried to bend too tight of a radius.  Is there a better
home-builder solution?  Perhaps there is an affordable storage
tank commercially available that makes building a backyard heat
exchange mute anyway.?  I'm going to need to come up with a
storage tank anyway.  I understand the theoretical pros/cons to
internal and external heat exchanges but, what are the real-world
practical differences?

Thanks a bunch,
Take care,
Ken



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Mike Weaver [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hmm...what if you centered the smaller tube and held it in place with
 spacers, wax would work, and then filled it with fine grain sand, then
 bent it?

I'm sure it would,  I think someone had already mentioned a similar
technique.  I think I'd like to stear clear of the sand in case of a
major failure.  Wax or not, I don't want to be flushing my entire
system to get rid of unwanted sand.

Keep the ideas coming,
Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Tom Scheel
If the goal is to keep it simple, do two things differently than you are contemplating:
1 - make your heat exchanger by putting multiple loops of coiled copper in a polypropylene tank - at most you will need soldering skill if you want to break up a 3/4 or 1" flow into multiple 1/2" coils (surface area = good). One logical loop for (may be many loops of a smaller pipe diameter) for the load (ie DHW or hydronic heat) and (2 below)

2 - use a "drain down" open system instead of glycol. This allows you to use water everywhere. A pump (not a circulator) pumps the water up to your rooftop collectors when the system senses available heat (standard, cheap solar differential controls) and gravity drains it down when the system is not in use [this method requires that the panels be above the storage tank and that the pipes exposed to freezing are graded towards the storage tank - usually very easy to do] Note that the PP tank in step one above is the drain down tank and storage tank for your hot water (they can be separated if desired, and a larger tank/multiple tanks will provide additional storage, which is the key to effective solar hydronic installations).
So you end up with one (open system)tank full of hot water from the sun, heating your coils of copper, containing the water from your (closed system)DHW. Similar technique (add a logical coil) for the hyrdonic side. Just make sure you don't always "preheat" your hydronic -sometimes the return water from your heating system will be hotter than your solar storage - you need a control to tell you whether there is heat available for the hyrdonic system (not an issue for preheating DHW - your solar storage temp will be almost always be above your groundwater temp).

Tom
From: Ken Dunn [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water HeaterDate: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 09:53:41 -0400To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.orgKjell,I will certainly give this a try for my own purposes, it seems simpleenough. But, I can operate a TIG and have access to one. Unfortunately, a TIG welder and the associated experience are notwidely spread. I do want to keep this project as Appropriate aspossible. So, I'm trying to find materials that are as readilyavailable as possible. Also, I plan to use propolene glycol so, thereis the issue of double walls. I could certainly adapt this ideaaccordingly. Its really too bad that brazing the plate togetherwouldn't be sufficient - that would make it an easier DIY.Thanks a bunch,Take care,KenOn 9/27/05, Kjell
 Löfgren <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>wrote: Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat exchanger - more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding. Cut two equally sized pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about two dimples about 2 mmSNIPRadiance Heating and Plumbing, Inc. (ROC 204149,204150)Tom Scheel928-380-6294___
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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Ken, why not use straight tubes (if you have the space), one tube
 length (20 feet?) in one direction and the next tube length running
 back? You could put your three (four?) tubes into each other both ways
 and have a U-bend and some interconnections in the far end. You get all
 the in- and output in the nearest end of the tube package.

This seems like a pretty good idea.  20 feet is much more space than I
have to offer but, I could probably figure out a way to contain a
tube-in-tube design inside a large diameter pvc pipe (6 ft long or so)
capped at both ends and plumbed to create a homemade shell and tube
heat exchanger.  I'll have to look at the economics of this design.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Zeke Yewdall
 2 - use a drain down open system instead of  glycol. This allows you to
 use water everywhere. A pump (not a circulator) pumps the water up to your
 rooftop collectors when the system senses available heat (standard, cheap
 solar differential controls) and gravity drains it down when the system is
 not in use [this method requires that the panels be above the storage tank
 and that the pipes exposed to freezing are graded towards the storage tank -
 usually very easy to do] Note that the PP tank in step one above is the
 drain down tank and storage tank for your hot water (they can be separated
 if desired, and a larger tank/multiple tanks will provide additional
 storage, which is the key to effective solar hydronic installations).

If you are willing to use a pump instead of a circulator (much higher
power draw is the problem,  if you are off grid), and take some care
in sloping pipes and collectors properly, it is a bit simpler.  In
addition, you avoid the issue of acidification of glycol, common in
large closed loop systems that chronically stagnate in the summertime.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
Tom,

Does a drain down system simplify anything other than the heat
exchanger and eliminate the use of glycol?  Or course, you're adding
the drain down.  It almost seems like a wash (there is a pun in there
somewhere, I'm sure).  I would like to use my solar hot water for
space heating as well - either radiant heat or with a liquid to air
heat exchanger and blower.  Either way, I think I'd prefer a closed
loop so that I'm not pumping DHW through excessive piping.

Am I missing something else?

 If the goal is to keep it simple, do two things differently than you are
 contemplating:
 1 - make your heat exchanger by putting multiple loops of coiled copper in a
 polypropylene tank - at most you will need soldering skill if you want to
 break up a 3/4 or 1 flow into multiple 1/2 coils (surface area = good).
 One logical loop for (may be many loops of a smaller pipe diameter) for the
 load (ie DHW or hydronic heat) and (2 below)

 2 - use a drain down open system instead of  glycol. This allows you to
 use water everywhere. A pump (not a circulator) pumps the water up to your
 rooftop collectors when the system senses available heat (standard, cheap
 solar differential controls) and gravity drains it down when the system is
 not in use [this method requires that the panels be above the storage tank
 and that the pipes exposed to freezing are graded towards the storage tank -
 usually very easy to do] Note that the PP tank in step one above is the
 drain down tank and storage tank for your hot water (they can be separated
 if desired, and a larger tank/multiple tanks will provide additional
 storage, which is the key to effective solar hydronic installations).

 So you end up with one (open system) tank full of hot water from the sun,
 heating your coils of copper, containing the water from your (closed system)
 DHW. Similar technique (add a logical coil) for the hyrdonic side. Just make
 sure you don't always preheat your hydronic -sometimes the return water
 from your heating system will be hotter than your solar storage - you need a
 control to tell you whether there is heat available for the hyrdonic system
 (not an issue for preheating DHW - your solar storage temp will be almost
 always be above your groundwater temp).

 Tom
 From: Ken Dunn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater
 Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 09:53:41 -0400
 To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org

 Kjell,

 I will certainly give this a try for my own purposes, it seems simple
 enough. But, I can operate a TIG and have access to one.
 Unfortunately, a TIG welder and the associated experience are not
 widely spread. I do want to keep this project as Appropriate as
 possible. So, I'm trying to find materials that are as readily
 available as possible. Also, I plan to use propolene glycol so, there
 is the issue of double walls. I could certainly adapt this idea
 accordingly. Its really too bad that brazing the plate together
 wouldn't be sufficient - that would make it an easier DIY.

 Thanks a bunch,
 Take care,
 Ken



 On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren wrote:
 
  Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat exchanger
 -
  more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding. Cut two equally sized
  pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about two dimples about 2 mm
 SNIP

 Radiance Heating and Plumbing, Inc. (ROC 204149,204150)
 Tom Scheel
 928-380-6294
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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Hakan Falk

Ken,

If you can use PVC pipe, your efficiency is very low to
start with. Normal PVC starts to soften at 60 degree C
and carbon reinforced ones at 95 degree C. The surface
temperatures in normal copper based solar panels can
be a few hundreds of degree C and it is always special
soldering in them, otherwise the soldering will melt or
degenerate.

I would not recommend any plastics, if you cannot get
the special ones that NASA uses. They are quite expensive,
so do not forget to ask for a special discount, based on
your good looks or intentions.

Hakan


At 20:04 27/09/2005, you wrote:
On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Ken, why not use straight tubes (if you have the space), one tube
  length (20 feet?) in one direction and the next tube length running
  back? You could put your three (four?) tubes into each other both ways
  and have a U-bend and some interconnections in the far end. You get all
  the in- and output in the nearest end of the tube package.

This seems like a pretty good idea.  20 feet is much more space than I
have to offer but, I could probably figure out a way to contain a
tube-in-tube design inside a large diameter pvc pipe (6 ft long or so)
capped at both ends and plumbed to create a homemade shell and tube
heat exchanger.  I'll have to look at the economics of this design.



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 If you are willing to use a pump instead of a circulator (much higher
 power draw is the problem,  if you are off grid), and take some care
 in sloping pipes and collectors properly, it is a bit simpler.  In
 addition, you avoid the issue of acidification of glycol, common in
 large closed loop systems that chronically stagnate in the summertime.

Is there a way to balance the PH of the glycol to extend the life of
it?  I knew that there is maintenance.  I assumed I would have to
periodically flush and replace.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Zeke Yewdall
Recently (this spring I believe) Home Power Magazine had a series of
articles with nice diagrams of all the various solar hot water
systems, space heating and DHW, batch heating, closed loop, and open
loop systems.  I'd recommend searching their archives, as these were
the easiest to understand explanations that I'd seen in a while.

Zeke

On 9/27/05, Ken Dunn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Tom,

 Does a drain down system simplify anything other than the heat
 exchanger and eliminate the use of glycol?  Or course, you're adding
 the drain down.  It almost seems like a wash (there is a pun in there
 somewhere, I'm sure).  I would like to use my solar hot water for
 space heating as well - either radiant heat or with a liquid to air
 heat exchanger and blower.  Either way, I think I'd prefer a closed
 loop so that I'm not pumping DHW through excessive piping.

 Am I missing something else?

  If the goal is to keep it simple, do two things differently than you are
  contemplating:
  1 - make your heat exchanger by putting multiple loops of coiled copper in a
  polypropylene tank - at most you will need soldering skill if you want to
  break up a 3/4 or 1 flow into multiple 1/2 coils (surface area = good).
  One logical loop for (may be many loops of a smaller pipe diameter) for the
  load (ie DHW or hydronic heat) and (2 below)
 
  2 - use a drain down open system instead of  glycol. This allows you to
  use water everywhere. A pump (not a circulator) pumps the water up to your
  rooftop collectors when the system senses available heat (standard, cheap
  solar differential controls) and gravity drains it down when the system is
  not in use [this method requires that the panels be above the storage tank
  and that the pipes exposed to freezing are graded towards the storage tank -
  usually very easy to do] Note that the PP tank in step one above is the
  drain down tank and storage tank for your hot water (they can be separated
  if desired, and a larger tank/multiple tanks will provide additional
  storage, which is the key to effective solar hydronic installations).
 
  So you end up with one (open system) tank full of hot water from the sun,
  heating your coils of copper, containing the water from your (closed system)
  DHW. Similar technique (add a logical coil) for the hyrdonic side. Just make
  sure you don't always preheat your hydronic -sometimes the return water
  from your heating system will be hotter than your solar storage - you need a
  control to tell you whether there is heat available for the hyrdonic system
  (not an issue for preheating DHW - your solar storage temp will be almost
  always be above your groundwater temp).
 
  Tom
  From: Ken Dunn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater
  Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 09:53:41 -0400
  To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
 
  Kjell,
 
  I will certainly give this a try for my own purposes, it seems simple
  enough. But, I can operate a TIG and have access to one.
  Unfortunately, a TIG welder and the associated experience are not
  widely spread. I do want to keep this project as Appropriate as
  possible. So, I'm trying to find materials that are as readily
  available as possible. Also, I plan to use propolene glycol so, there
  is the issue of double walls. I could certainly adapt this idea
  accordingly. Its really too bad that brazing the plate together
  wouldn't be sufficient - that would make it an easier DIY.
 
  Thanks a bunch,
  Take care,
  Ken
 
 
 
  On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren wrote:
  
   Ken, to avoid the tube bending business you can use a plate heat exchanger
  -
   more compact but if DIY you have to do some welding. Cut two equally sized
   pieces of *thin* stainless steel plate. Make about two dimples about 2 mm
  SNIP
 
  Radiance Heating and Plumbing, Inc. (ROC 204149,204150)
  Tom Scheel
  928-380-6294
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  messages):
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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Ken,

 If you can use PVC pipe, your efficiency is very low to
 start with. Normal PVC starts to soften at 60 degree C
 and carbon reinforced ones at 95 degree C. The surface
 temperatures in normal copper based solar panels can
 be a few hundreds of degree C and it is always special
 soldering in them, otherwise the soldering will melt or
 degenerate.

 I would not recommend any plastics, if you cannot get
 the special ones that NASA uses.

Thanks for his piece of information, I was not of heat sensivity of
PVC.  I thought that it was much more heat resistent.

They are quite expensive,
 so do not forget to ask for a special discount, based on
 your good looks or intentions.

Has my mom been bragging about me again?

Thanks again,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Recently (this spring I believe) Home Power Magazine had a series of
 articles with nice diagrams of all the various solar hot water
 systems, space heating and DHW, batch heating, closed loop, and open
 loop systems.  I'd recommend searching their archives, as these were
 the easiest to understand explanations that I'd seen in a while.

Yikes,  Zeke,

I can't look at another diagram until I get some work done.  I have
been reading endlessly, I think I might have seen every article in
Home Power, Mother Earth News, SRCC, FSEC, EERE, DOE, Billy Boy Joe
Bob's Ever-Expanding-Beer-Bottle system and more.  Somethin's gotta
get built.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Zeke Yewdall

 Is there a way to balance the PH of the glycol to extend the life of
 it?  I knew that there is maintenance.  I assumed I would have to
 periodically flush and replace.


Hmmm.  I'm not actually sure  :)  I know that it is recommended to
test it every two years, but no one actually said what to do if it had
gone bad...  replace it I guess?

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Zeke Yewdall
You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.As I understood your
idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?

Zeke

On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Ken,

 If you can use PVC pipe, your efficiency is very low to
 start with. Normal PVC starts to soften at 60 degree C
 and carbon reinforced ones at 95 degree C. The surface
 temperatures in normal copper based solar panels can
 be a few hundreds of degree C and it is always special
 soldering in them, otherwise the soldering will melt or
 degenerate.

 I would not recommend any plastics, if you cannot get
 the special ones that NASA uses. They are quite expensive,
 so do not forget to ask for a special discount, based on
 your good looks or intentions.

 Hakan


 At 20:04 27/09/2005, you wrote:
 On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   Ken, why not use straight tubes (if you have the space), one tube
   length (20 feet?) in one direction and the next tube length running
   back? You could put your three (four?) tubes into each other both ways
   and have a U-bend and some interconnections in the far end. You get all
   the in- and output in the nearest end of the tube package.
 
 This seems like a pretty good idea.  20 feet is much more space than I
 have to offer but, I could probably figure out a way to contain a
 tube-in-tube design inside a large diameter pvc pipe (6 ft long or so)
 capped at both ends and plumbed to create a homemade shell and tube
 heat exchanger.  I'll have to look at the economics of this design.



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
 heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
 should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
 diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
 water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.As I understood your
 idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
 submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?

Yes, that's one of the ideas that I would like to test.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread David Miller
Zeke Yewdall wrote:

You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.As I understood your
idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?
  


Isn't the gray plastic electrical conduit C-PVC?  Check with your local 
electrical shop rather than your home depot.

--- David

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Hakan Falk

Zeke,

I would not use PVC or C-PVC at all, if I wanted a long term solution
with a life span of more than a couple plus years. I used some spare
C-PVC in a watering system, with some small parts open to the air and
partially the sun. After 3-4 years they had hardened and started to crack.
This despite the very low pressure in the watering system, comparable
with an open solar system.

It is the surface to the sun that is critical, so running C-PVC inside a
a large copper tube could work, but why would we like to do that?
Plastic is a very bad heat exchanger anyway, compared o copper.

C-PVC is usable up to 95 to 99 degree, depending on type and
quality.

Hakan


At 20:45 27/09/2005, you wrote:
You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.As I understood your
idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?

Zeke

On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Ken,
 
  If you can use PVC pipe, your efficiency is very low to
  start with. Normal PVC starts to soften at 60 degree C
  and carbon reinforced ones at 95 degree C. The surface
  temperatures in normal copper based solar panels can
  be a few hundreds of degree C and it is always special
  soldering in them, otherwise the soldering will melt or
  degenerate.
 
  I would not recommend any plastics, if you cannot get
  the special ones that NASA uses. They are quite expensive,
  so do not forget to ask for a special discount, based on
  your good looks or intentions.
 
  Hakan
 
 
  At 20:04 27/09/2005, you wrote:
  On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Ken, why not use straight tubes (if you have the space), one tube
length (20 feet?) in one direction and the next tube length running
back? You could put your three (four?) tubes into each other both ways
and have a U-bend and some interconnections in the far end. You get all
the in- and output in the nearest end of the tube package.
  
  This seems like a pretty good idea.  20 feet is much more space than I
  have to offer but, I could probably figure out a way to contain a
  tube-in-tube design inside a large diameter pvc pipe (6 ft long or so)
  capped at both ends and plumbed to create a homemade shell and tube
  heat exchanger.  I'll have to look at the economics of this design.



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 It is the surface to the sun that is critical, so running C-PVC inside a
 a large copper tube could work, but why would we like to do that?
 Plastic is a very bad heat exchanger anyway, compared o copper.

 C-PVC is usable up to 95 to 99 degree, depending on type and
 quality.

Hakan,

The CPVC would only be used to house the heat exchanger which would be
in the basement.  All piping to, from and within the collector would
still be copper.  Besides, I'm still very much in the experimental
stage.

Thanks for you comments,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, David Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Isn't the gray plastic electrical conduit C-PVC?  Check with your local
 electrical shop rather than your home depot.

Is that safe for carrying drinking though?  If so, that's a good lead.
 I could always run my potable  water through the heat exchanger and
glycol through the PVC but, I definitely need to know what's healthy
and what's not.

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Zeke Yewdall
Well, in this case, there is not supposed to be any heat transfer
through the PVC, so I wouldn't be worried about that.  I agree that
metal would be better, it you can find some large diameter metal pipe
for cheap.  What about just putting a coil of copper tubing in a big
metal trash can?  Certainly not elegant, but it would be cheap, and
require just about no manufacturing.

On the sunlight issue, the problem is that UV turns the surface of PVC
(and apparently CPVC) into a different chemical compound that is much
harder than PVC, but much more brittle.  It serves as a crack
initiator, and causes the entire thickness of PVC to crack easily,
even though only the very surface has actually been affected by the
sunlight.  If you sand the discoloured surface off, it regains it's
original plasticity because you have removed the crack initiator
layer.  This is from the Unibell PVC manufacturers association, that I
attended a workshop from.

On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Zeke,

 I would not use PVC or C-PVC at all, if I wanted a long term solution
 with a life span of more than a couple plus years. I used some spare
 C-PVC in a watering system, with some small parts open to the air and
 partially the sun. After 3-4 years they had hardened and started to crack.
 This despite the very low pressure in the watering system, comparable
 with an open solar system.

 It is the surface to the sun that is critical, so running C-PVC inside a
 a large copper tube could work, but why would we like to do that?
 Plastic is a very bad heat exchanger anyway, compared o copper.

 C-PVC is usable up to 95 to 99 degree, depending on type and
 quality.

 Hakan


 At 20:45 27/09/2005, you wrote:
 You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
 heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
 should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
 diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
 water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.As I understood your
 idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
 submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?
 
 Zeke
 
 On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
   Ken,
  
   If you can use PVC pipe, your efficiency is very low to
   start with. Normal PVC starts to soften at 60 degree C
   and carbon reinforced ones at 95 degree C. The surface
   temperatures in normal copper based solar panels can
   be a few hundreds of degree C and it is always special
   soldering in them, otherwise the soldering will melt or
   degenerate.
  
   I would not recommend any plastics, if you cannot get
   the special ones that NASA uses. They are quite expensive,
   so do not forget to ask for a special discount, based on
   your good looks or intentions.
  
   Hakan
  
  
   At 20:04 27/09/2005, you wrote:
   On 9/27/05, Kjell Löfgren [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Ken, why not use straight tubes (if you have the space), one tube
 length (20 feet?) in one direction and the next tube length running
 back? You could put your three (four?) tubes into each other both ways
 and have a U-bend and some interconnections in the far end. You get 
 all
 the in- and output in the nearest end of the tube package.
   
   This seems like a pretty good idea.  20 feet is much more space than I
   have to offer but, I could probably figure out a way to contain a
   tube-in-tube design inside a large diameter pvc pipe (6 ft long or so)
   capped at both ends and plumbed to create a homemade shell and tube
   heat exchanger.  I'll have to look at the economics of this design.



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Hakan Falk

David,

I doubt it, since the plastic pipes are colored according to
a system and gray is normal PVC. I have also seen those
gray tubing exposed to the sun and the get discolored after
a while, with fine cracks on the surface. Since this electrical
tubing is an electrical insolation, it is no demands on holding
of liquids. Most C-PVC I seen are for heated floor and they
are transparent/yellow, if you ask me that have a slightly
defect color seeing, as most men. If you want a more exact
color, always ask a women.

Hakan


At 21:04 27/09/2005, you wrote:
Zeke Yewdall wrote:

 You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
 heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
 should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
 diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
 water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.As I understood your
 idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
 submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?
 
 

Isn't the gray plastic electrical conduit C-PVC?  Check with your local
electrical shop rather than your home depot.

--- David



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Zeke Yewdall
I agree, the gray stuff is just normal PVC, except that I think it has
flame retardant added for electrical conduit.  Darker colors will also
hold up to the sun somewhat better, but obviously not perfectly.

On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 David,

 I doubt it, since the plastic pipes are colored according to
 a system and gray is normal PVC. I have also seen those
 gray tubing exposed to the sun and the get discolored after
 a while, with fine cracks on the surface. Since this electrical
 tubing is an electrical insolation, it is no demands on holding
 of liquids. Most C-PVC I seen are for heated floor and they
 are transparent/yellow, if you ask me that have a slightly
 defect color seeing, as most men. If you want a more exact
 color, always ask a women.

 Hakan


 At 21:04 27/09/2005, you wrote:
 Zeke Yewdall wrote:
 
  You can actually buy C-PVC pipe for hot water piping here.  Since the
  heat exchanger is not going to be operating at over 90C or so, it
  should work fine, except that it may be very difficult to get 100mm
  diamter CPVC.  Normally anything that large is drain pipe not hot
  water supply, and will be normal PVC instead.As I understood your
  idea, you were going to put a few runs of copper pipe back and forth
  submerged inside the large PVC pipe, right?
  
  
 
 Isn't the gray plastic electrical conduit C-PVC?  Check with your local
 electrical shop rather than your home depot.
 
 --- David



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Well, in this case, there is not supposed to be any heat transfer
 through the PVC, so I wouldn't be worried about that.  I agree that
 metal would be better, it you can find some large diameter metal pipe
 for cheap.  What about just putting a coil of copper tubing in a big
 metal trash can?  Certainly not elegant, but it would be cheap, and
 require just about no manufacturing.

Well,  while I couldn't care much less about the elegance of the
installation, my kids are still young and I'd like to find someone to
buy my house when I'm ready to move into a smaller space.  Also, as
I've mentioned several times, I would like to help others with
solutions like solar hot water.  And frankly, I live in the U.S. where
things are supposed to be both sexy and puritanical simultaneously.  A
big metal trash can is neither.  Furthermore, I would like to continue
living in the house with my wife once its all said and done.  I'm
pretty sure that my wife would be just a bit leary of our drinking
water getting anywhere near a trash can.

Thanks,

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Hakan Falk

Ken,

If it is a pure heat exchanger, you need more than double the surface
for plastic, than for metal. This apart from the possible defects that
can develop in plastics. If it is only the housing of 2 heat exchange loops,
why not use a steel drum, with copper tubing for the two loops. The
cost should be close to the same, if you consider the material efficiency
and corresponding amounts.

Hakan

At 21:27 27/09/2005, you wrote:
On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  It is the surface to the sun that is critical, so running C-PVC inside a
  a large copper tube could work, but why would we like to do that?
  Plastic is a very bad heat exchanger anyway, compared o copper.
 
  C-PVC is usable up to 95 to 99 degree, depending on type and
  quality.

Hakan,

The CPVC would only be used to house the heat exchanger which would be
in the basement.  All piping to, from and within the collector would
still be copper.  Besides, I'm still very much in the experimental
stage.

Thanks for you comments,
Ken



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Hakan Falk

PS,

Do not forget to insulate the steel drum well and maybe enhance the
looks that way.

Hakan


At 22:03 27/09/2005, you wrote:

Ken,

If it is a pure heat exchanger, you need more than double the surface
for plastic, than for metal. This apart from the possible defects that
can develop in plastics. If it is only the housing of 2 heat exchange loops,
why not use a steel drum, with copper tubing for the two loops. The
cost should be close to the same, if you consider the material efficiency
and corresponding amounts.

Hakan

At 21:27 27/09/2005, you wrote:
 On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
   It is the surface to the sun that is critical, so running C-PVC inside a
   a large copper tube could work, but why would we like to do that?
   Plastic is a very bad heat exchanger anyway, compared o copper.
  
   C-PVC is usable up to 95 to 99 degree, depending on type and
   quality.
 
 Hakan,
 
 The CPVC would only be used to house the heat exchanger which would be
 in the basement.  All piping to, from and within the collector would
 still be copper.  Besides, I'm still very much in the experimental
 stage.
 
 Thanks for you comments,
 Ken



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Ken Dunn
On 9/27/05, Hakan Falk [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 If it is only the housing of 2 heat exchange loops,

This is the purpose.  I won't be using any plastic-like material to
exchange heat.  Sorry, if I didn't make that completely evident.

 why not use a steel drum, with copper tubing for the two loops. The
 cost should be close to the same, if you consider the material efficiency
 and corresponding amounts.

I may end up using a steel drum.  I'm try to find the best option to
match whatever materials that I can find locally.  For what it's
worth, there is an issue of space efficiency also.  The steel drum
might not meet those requirements.  Having the greatest number of
options at my disposal can only benefit me and anyone that might want
to the do same for themselves.

Take care,
Ken

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-27 Thread Kjell Lofgren
Ken,
do not use PVC for drinking water, the softener DEHP in the PVC
material is slowly leaking out and there is also other nonhealthy stuff
(chlorine!) in PVC.
Personally I would put my ? (or whatever) on stainless steel, 18/8
sounds nice to me, almost beautiful...




-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ken Dunn
Sent: den 27 september 2005 21:54
To: Biofuel@sustainablelists.org
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water
Heater


On 9/27/05, Zeke Yewdall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Well, in this case, there is not supposed to be any heat transfer
 through the PVC, so I wouldn't be worried about that.  I agree that
 metal would be better, it you can find some large diameter metal pipe
 for cheap.  What about just putting a coil of copper tubing in a big
 metal trash can?  Certainly not elegant, but it would be cheap, and
 require just about no manufacturing.

Well,  while I couldn't care much less about the elegance of the
installation, my kids are still young and I'd like to find someone to
buy my house when I'm ready to move into a smaller space.  Also, as
I've mentioned several times, I would like to help others with
solutions like solar hot water.  And frankly, I live in the U.S. where
things are supposed to be both sexy and puritanical simultaneously.  A
big metal trash can is neither.  Furthermore, I would like to continue
living in the house with my wife once its all said and done.  I'm
pretty sure that my wife would be just a bit leary of our drinking
water getting anywhere near a trash can.

Thanks,

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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-25 Thread Ken Dunn
Thanks, everyone, for the advice. I went to the PA Energy Fest
yesterday and talked to experienced folks there as well. I got
some ideas how to incorporate some the concepts mentioned in this
thread and also some others. I'm going to experiment on a smaller
scale and design my heat exchange accordingly.

Thanks again for the input,
Take care,
Ken
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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-25 Thread John Mullan
Very nice.  Please share your results during your progress.

Cheers

On 9/25/2005, Ken Dunn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Thanks, everyone, for the advice. I went to the PA Energy Fest yesterday and
talked to experienced folks there as well. I got some ideas how to
incorporate some the concepts mentioned in this thread and also some others..
I'm going to experiment on a smaller scale and design my heat exchange
accordingly.

Thanks again for the input,
Take care,
Ken




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[Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-24 Thread Ken Dunn
Hi all,

Sorry for the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in archive
searches... Is there a home remedy to creating a double wall heat
exchange? I have contemplated buying two sizes of copper tubing,
inserting the smaller inside the larger and bending the two
simultaneously. I could see how the inner tubing might kink or
flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely unless I tried to bend
too tight of a radius. Is there a better home-builder
solution? Perhaps there is an affordable storage tank
commercially available that makes building a backyard heat exchange
mute anyway.? I'm going to need to come up with a storage tank
anyway. I understand the theoretical pros/cons to internal and
external heat exchanges but, what are the real-world practical
differences?

Thanks a bunch,
Take care,
Ken
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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-24 Thread John Mullan
I know Rheem makes (or made) a domestic HW tank that had an internal heat
exchange coil.  Presumably made for solar heat.  I was examining it a
while back.  However, being in Canada the Canadian branch did not carry
it.

I have seen others build their own exchangers using solid copper pipe,
utilizing reducers to actually position smaller diameter pipe inside the
larger diameter pipe.  The reducers were installed backwards such that
the small end pointed into the larger pipe.  I may have the picture
files (assuming I saved them).  If interested I'll try to locate them.

John


On 9/24/2005, Ken Dunn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hi all,

Sorry for the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in archive
searches... Is there a home remedy to creating a double wall heat exchange?
I have contemplated buying two sizes of copper tubing, inserting the smaller
inside the larger and bending the two simultaneously. I could see how the
inner tubing might kink or flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely
unless I tried to bend too tight of a radius. Is there a better home-builder
solution? Perhaps there is an affordable storage tank commercially available
that makes building a backyard heat exchange mute anyway.? I'm going to need
to come up with a storage tank anyway. I understand the theoretical
pros/cons to internal and external heat exchanges but, what are the
real-world practical differences?

Thanks a bunch,
Take care,
Ken




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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-24 Thread Zeke Yewdall
Commerciall tanks tend to be pretty expensive.  I have heard of people
doing as John says with two diameters of pipe.  I think there is also
a company that makes just double wall heat exhangers that you can buy
by the foot.  I can't remember the name, but they usually have an ad
in Home Power mazagine, which you can download from their website for
free and look for the ad.  www.homewpower.com

On 9/24/05, John Mullan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I know Rheem makes (or made) a domestic HW tank that had an internal heat
 exchange coil.  Presumably made for solar heat.  I was examining it a
 while back.  However, being in Canada the Canadian branch did not carry
 it.

 I have seen others build their own exchangers using solid copper pipe,
 utilizing reducers to actually position smaller diameter pipe inside the
 larger diameter pipe.  The reducers were installed backwards such that
 the small end pointed into the larger pipe.  I may have the picture
 files (assuming I saved them).  If interested I'll try to locate them.

 John


 On 9/24/2005, Ken Dunn [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi all,
 
 Sorry for the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in archive
 searches... Is there a home remedy to creating a double wall heat exchange?
 I have contemplated buying two sizes of copper tubing, inserting the smaller
 inside the larger and bending the two simultaneously. I could see how the
 inner tubing might kink or flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely
 unless I tried to bend too tight of a radius. Is there a better home-builder
 solution? Perhaps there is an affordable storage tank commercially available
 that makes building a backyard heat exchange mute anyway.? I'm going to need
 to come up with a storage tank anyway. I understand the theoretical
 pros/cons to internal and external heat exchanges but, what are the
 real-world practical differences?
 
 Thanks a bunch,
 Take care,
 Ken
 
 


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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-24 Thread Darryl McMahon
Ken wrote:

 Hi all,
 
 Sorry for the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in archive
 searches... Is there a home remedy to creating a double wall heat exchange?
 I have contemplated buying two sizes of copper tubing, inserting the smaller
 inside the larger and bending the two simultaneously. I could see how the
 inner tubing might kink or flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely
 unless I tried to bend too tight of a radius. Is there a better home-builder
 solution? Perhaps there is an affordable storage tank commercially available
 that makes building a backyard heat exchange mute anyway.? I'm going to need
 to come up with a storage tank anyway. I understand the theoretical
 pros/cons to internal and external heat exchanges but, what are the
 real-world practical differences?
 

Disclaimer - I have not tried this myself.
I have read (somewhere) that if you start with straight tubing, then pack sand 
between the two tubes before making your bends, this will avoid/ reduce kinking 
in 
the inner tube.  Of course, the trick is probably getting all the sand out 
again 
before plumbing this new arrangement into the lines.  

If I end up going this route (double-wall) some day in the future, I think I 
will 
put two coils into an exchange tank instead.  One coil provides the heat input 
from 
the solar collectors, the other coil provides the heat input to the 
conventional 
hot water tank.  The tank will have a sealable lid, and a lot of insulation.  
Both 
coils will be immersed in water in the tank.  This way, the lid can be removed 
for 
inspections, and the coils can be removed fairly easily for repairs.

To date, my solar water pre-heaters are in-line, so no heat exhangers required.

Darryl McMahon
-- 
Darryl McMahon  http://www.econogics.com/
It's your planet.  If you won't look after it, who will?



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Re: [Biofuel] Double wall heat exchange - Solar Hot Water Heater

2005-09-24 Thread Mike Weaver
Mandrel benders are cheap most places and will do the same thing better...

Darryl McMahon wrote:

Ken wrote:

  

Hi all,

Sorry for the long subject line but, I thought it may aid in archive
searches... Is there a home remedy to creating a double wall heat exchange?
I have contemplated buying two sizes of copper tubing, inserting the smaller
inside the larger and bending the two simultaneously. I could see how the
inner tubing might kink or flatten out but, I think that would be unlikely
unless I tried to bend too tight of a radius. Is there a better home-builder
solution? Perhaps there is an affordable storage tank commercially available
that makes building a backyard heat exchange mute anyway.? I'm going to need
to come up with a storage tank anyway. I understand the theoretical
pros/cons to internal and external heat exchanges but, what are the
real-world practical differences?




Disclaimer - I have not tried this myself.
I have read (somewhere) that if you start with straight tubing, then pack sand 
between the two tubes before making your bends, this will avoid/ reduce 
kinking in 
the inner tube.  Of course, the trick is probably getting all the sand out 
again 
before plumbing this new arrangement into the lines.  

If I end up going this route (double-wall) some day in the future, I think I 
will 
put two coils into an exchange tank instead.  One coil provides the heat input 
from 
the solar collectors, the other coil provides the heat input to the 
conventional 
hot water tank.  The tank will have a sealable lid, and a lot of insulation.  
Both 
coils will be immersed in water in the tank.  This way, the lid can be removed 
for 
inspections, and the coils can be removed fairly easily for repairs.

To date, my solar water pre-heaters are in-line, so no heat exhangers required.

Darryl McMahon
  



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