doctor_big wrote:
How much would you think it reasonable to spend on a pair of
floorstanding speakers for a medium-sized (say, 16x20ft) room?
That is a hard question, because it really boils down to how much would
you think it reasonable to spend on your hobby?. How important is
listening
-- Original Message --
From: Julf julf.6q5...@no-mx.forums.slimdevices.com
To: audiophiles@lists.slimdevices.com
Sent: 1/3/2015 4:44:51 AM
Subject: Re: [SlimDevices: Audiophiles] Oh-oh, the ethernet/USB cable
dispute all over again ...
doctor_big wrote:
How much would you think it
doctor_big wrote:
With regard to choosing a pair of speakers, if the room is a constant
then wouldn't measurements of the speakers tell you how they'd sound?
IE: two speakers that measure the same should sound the same in the same
listening room?
As Darren pointed out, no two speakers
Julf wrote:
As Darren pointed out, no two speakers measure the same, but even if
they did, they would still sound different if they had the drivers
placed differently, had different shape/size baffle, etc - stuff that
affects how the speakers interact with the room.
Fair enough.
Another
doctor_big wrote:
Are measurements important when it comes to speakers?
Does size matter? :)
I would say that measurements are really important when it comes to
speaker-room interaction. It is very hard to achieve a decent frequency
response without nasty room resonances unless you use
Julf wrote:
Does size matter? :)
I would say that measurements are really important when it comes to
speaker-room interaction. It is very hard to achieve a decent frequency
response without nasty room resonances unless you use in-room
measurements.
With regard to choosing a pair of
Nothing measures the same ...!
Check it, add to it! http://www.dr.loudness-war.info/
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/richpub/listmania/byauthor/A3H57URKQB8AQO/ref=cm_pdp_content_listmania/203-7606506-5721503.
SB Touch
darrenyeats wrote:
In that case the alternative would be the 1.5V input. I'm guessing you
meant ... and feeling it is still too loud ...
No - the 1.5V input is more sensitive, so would make it louder. As far
as I understand, the issue the OP has is that the 1.5V input setting is
too
darrenyeats wrote:
Grab the stick from the other end. It's not how quiet you need to have
it, but how loud.
Exactly. I have to repeat my earlier advice:
Julf wrote:
Indeed. Try 4.8V (it is only 3.5 dB from 3V), and only if you find
yourself turning volume up to full, and feeling it is not
Julf wrote:
Indeed. Try 4.8V (it is only 3.5 dB from 3V), and only if you find
yourself turning volume up to full, and feeling it is not loud enough,
you can start thinking of alternatives...
In that case the alternative is the 1.5V input. Perhaps you meant if it
is still too loud
He doesn't have his speakers yet and I doubt more finesse than the 10db
step is necessary.
To repeat, I think attenuators should be used only if 4.8V is still too
loud to be practical.
Check it, add to it! http://www.dr.loudness-war.info/
FWIW typical use for me is 30%-60%. Don't worry, I have an ALPS
attenuator built right into my DAC but I prefer to bypass that and use
digital volume (now my gain is set up correctly).
Check it, add to it! http://www.dr.loudness-war.info/
doctor_big wrote:
So I take it you're not an audiophile?
I just like music, and have a keen interest (and some professional
experience) in audio technology, but that's all.
To try to judge the real from the false will always be hard. In this
fast-growing art of 'high fidelity' the quackery
Julf wrote:
I just like music, and have a keen interest (and some professional
experience) in audio technology, but that's all.
How much would you think it reasonable to spend on a pair of
floorstanding speakers for a medium-sized (say, 16x20ft) room?
Jason
ralphpnj wrote:
Ah, my mistake. Under those conditions I would that the less expensive
setup would sound the same as the more expensive setup the vast majority
of the time and in those few instances where they do sound different the
differences would be fairly minor.
As for my idea of a
doctor_big wrote:
It's a little clearer. But still some questions:
(I'll say better here but I understand your point about different
and personal choice as to which is preferred) The $5k amp can sound
better than the $200 amp. And the $50k amp may well sound better than
the $5k amp (am
doctor_big wrote:
Fascinating! So a combination of the D1 and one of these TPA31XXD2 amps
would sound as good as / indistinguishable from, say, a dCS stack
feeding a set of Pass Labs mono amps? Given of course, a compatible
speaker load? And, just to clarify the parameters, assuming they're
ralphpnj wrote:
Sorry to have to use this word: depends, as in it depends on a quite a
few factors. What kind of speakers, where are the speakers be placed,
how loud do you like to listen to music, will you be using a subwoofer,
etc. All of these factors are important and should be taken
ralphpnj wrote:
Jason,
I think you are mistaking sonic performance for build quality. The
Nelson Pass mono amps are built like small tanks and are able to handle
even the most difficult speaker loads. The high build quality should
make the Pass amps trouble free for many years but from a
Julf wrote:
For the DAC part, I am pretty sure the 140 Audioengine D1 that drives
my genelecs is more than transparent and accurate enough, and in fact
even the 24 UCA-202 combined ADC and DAC that I use for room
measurements 'seems to be good enough'
doctor_big wrote:
Another question: What's the cheapest amp/DAC combo you can think of
that is transparent and accurate and will sound the same as any other
competently-designed components regardless of price?
For the DAC part, I am pretty sure the #8364;140 Audioengine D1 that
drives my
ralphpnj wrote:
Still another problem is the law of diminishing returns - a $200 amp may
offer 95% of the performance of a $50,000 amp and a $5000 amp may offer
98% of the performance of a the same $50,000 amp. Often one has to
decide if the huge increase in price justifies the small
darrenyeats wrote:
He doesn't have his speakers yet and I doubt more finesse than the 10db
step is necessary. Plus, unlike the input setting, attenuators are not a
free lunch (impedance).
We both agree that the attenuator probably isn't needed, but...
I think attenuators should be used
doctor_big wrote:
How much would you think it reasonable to spend on a pair of
floorstanding speakers for a medium-sized (say, 16x20ft) room?
The short answer is $200. The Infinity Primus 363 is frequently on sale
at Amazon for either $99 each or $107 each with free shipping. (
doctor_big wrote:
I'm a touch confused: very similar isn't the same, and my
(admittedly superficial) reading of this and other threads in here sees
repeated use of words like indistinguishable to describe the sound of
two amps and DACs that measure the same, regardless of cost.
Build
doctor_big wrote:
I thought I was pretty clear: With the same speakers. And with speakers
that match the load and sensitivity needs of the amp. I perhaps didn't
overtly state the same room, but it was implied.
So in those conditions, the amps/DACs would sound the same, is that
right?
doctor_big wrote:
I took a brief look at one of the other guy's ABX DBT that was linked to
up above... to me that was just plain confusing. As soon as the X
appears, all bets are off. I firmly don't believe that ABX is good for
anything except showing how to confound a test and confuse
garym wrote:
I must interject. Your statement above indicates that you don't
understand what an ABX test is or its acceptance in the scholarly
research literature. Google ABX Test and you'll find some useful
explanations. ABX is a scientifically valid method of doing a double
blind AB
doctor_big wrote:
I understand exactly what an ABX test is. I also understand how useful
it can be. But in my opinion it's not a valid way to determine
preference in audio gear. It will clearly show whether the participant
can identify X. That's not of concern to me. There has been test
garym wrote:
Sorry, your statement above still indicates a misunderstanding of ABX
tests. They are not about identifying the X. They are a method for
determining whether A is different from B.
Whatever. That's semantics. The subject has to determine if X is A or
B. It's still not relevant,
It didn't take long for Computer Audiophile to start spouting audiofool
USB cable differences tests. I seem to remember it was within the first
few months of the site opening. Gave up on it long ago.
SuperQ's Profile:
doctor_big wrote:
Whatever. That's semantics. The subject has to determine if X is A or
B. It's still not relevant, and is old news regarding choosing between
audio equipment. We KNOW that two different amps that measure the same
will show as identical in ABX DBT testing.
Try something
garym wrote:
Whatever...are you 14 years old? Why have you become so belligerent? I
thought you were trying to have a conversation here about potential
differences using science and engineering knowledge. I hope I'm wrong,
but I'm afraid that--despite your long membership here--you're coming
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