i saw in the original mod that one is to replace the original caps w/ a
4.7uf, 50v and simply wire from there to the RCA outputs.
here's the rub: when i tried to remove the stock caps (shown in green
circles of the pic), i throw the solder pads they're attached to. its
like the pads pull off the
rhyno138 wrote:
does anyone have good advice on how to safely remove the caps so that
the solder pads don't come up with them?
You are trying to hack surface mount stuff?
Did you not see the giant thar be dragons warning?
Of course real men can fix the solder pads. :-)
rhyno138;300850 Wrote:
snip
Does anyone have good advice on how to safely remove the caps so that
the solder pads don't come up with them?
many thx
rhyno
Fry's carries Quik Chip - it worked well for me.
http://www.chipquikinc.com/
\http://shop4.frys.com/product/2644632
(Says sold
mswlogo;197846 Wrote:
Why didn't you use a 75ohm thin coax from the BNC connector connected
upstream.
Given all the noise floating around the inside of the SB3, I was more
interested in using twisting pair to insure that any noise couples
equally and hopefully gets removed by the common mode
GaryB,
Why didn't you use a 75ohm thin coax from the BNC connector connected
upstream. Seems to me that would have been obvious todo if you bothered
to change the connector. It would have been shielded as well as
impedance match.
--
mswlogo
you're welcome.
Removing the caps is easier than it looks. They each have a couple of
solder tags that are easily attacked with a soldering iron. Try not to
hang around though, if things get too hot there is a chance that
surrounding pcb tracks may lift.
--
parrydave
*modded squeezebox
Club1820;194167 Wrote:
As I am not tech savvy and won't be spending major bucks for an upgrade
or the transporter - the only upgrade for me would be to replace the
wallwart. Does this really improve the sound? - even if its minimal
compared to all the other mods mentioned here and in
Looking over my notes, those are the caps I had listed for removal. Let
us know how you get on.
cheers
Dave
--
parrydave
*modded squeezebox 3/arcam cd92t/arcam a85/arcam avr300
dynaudio contour 1.3mkii/dynaudio focus 200c/mk k-4/rel q150
pioneer pdp-507xd/sky+/harmony 525*
Ok. I hope that you guys dont mind me posting this question. As I am a
new owner of a squeezebox and love it so far. But also one who is
always looking for a better sound. Just like you guys.
As I am not tech savvy and won't be spending major bucks for an upgrade
or the transporter - the only
Some folks have reported nice improvements with a better external power
supply, others haven't noticed any change at all. Someone posted a
theory here that whether you hear an improvement is dependent upon the
rest of your system - the stock switching power supply apparently emits
a lot of high
Club1820;194182 Wrote:
Bob, thanks for the quick reply.
So is the item I posted a link to what I need and what the original
poster of this thread stated as Mod #1?. Replace the wallwart.
I have my squeezebox connected to my Rotel 1068 Pre/Pro which then
feeds to a Rotel 1095 amp.
parrydave;194125 Wrote:
Looking over my notes, those are the caps I had listed for removal. Let
us know how you get on.
cheers
Dave
Thank you for you confirmation, Dave.
What trick did you use to remove those caps? It doesn't look so easy.
--
ssb
Could someone please help me confirm the caps to be removed for the SB3
analog mod are C16 C20?
Thanks Skunk for providing the original high quality pix. :)
+---+
|Filename: cb.jpg
I used Sonicap Platinum 0.1uF as bypass. Any bigger and you may
struggle to fit it inside an SB3. Danny from GR Research agreed this
would do the job when I ordered. The blackgate was as suggested by
GaryB, 4.7uF N. I don't have any pictures, but basically I mounted the
Sonicaps where I
Hey i was wondering what value sonicap u used? and how do you bypass?
just wire the lead together of booth caps? thanx
parrydave;185952 Wrote:
Hi,
I've recently modded my SB3 analogue output as per GaryB's original
post. Whipped out the opamp, upgraded the DAC to KE version and couple
parrydave;186570 Wrote:
thats fine about the superReg board. I wasn't sure where you were.
It's available still, so I can send it to you if you'd like. Just send
me a private message w/ your address. I still have the padded envelope
and it's marked 1.46 pounds sterling shipping cost from the
GaryB;186354 Wrote:
Well it has been a long time since I poked around inside my SB3 but the
way you figure these things out is to check the chip datasheets and
then visually trace the wiring on the circuit board. Using a
multimeter to verify things are wired up the way one expects is
parrydave;186397 Wrote:
Maybe U8 is the 3.3V reg and is fed from U5 as in the DAC datasheet
application notes. Although U6 looks better positioned for pin 5
(3.3V). Need to look at the board properly.
Thanks for looking into this further, and I'm glad you found the
schematic. Let me know
Skunk,
Sorry, I missed your kind offer of the SuperReg board. If you still
have it, i could definitely put it to good use. I'm in UK though.
Good job confirming U5=Vcc and U8=Vdd. As you say though, it'd be nice
to see where they get their feeds. I remember an old post where Sean
reported
parrydave;186517 Wrote:
Sorry, I missed your kind offer of the SuperReg board. If you still
have it, i could definitely put it to good use. I'm in UK though.
I'm afraid that would mostly just be doing the postal service a favor,
by shipping it back across. I only got 4, and plan to use
thats fine about the superReg board. I wasn't sure where you were.
The 3.3Vdd is the digital side of the DAC.
My understanding is that the only change from SB2-SB3 was that the
regulator in question was changed from a switcher to linear reg. So
exactly as shown in that diagram
Hi Skunk,
Some good stuff there. Having read the links it makes a lot more sense,
but I am far from expert in such matters!
First, my comment about no internal SuperReg was based only on the fact
that I don't want to rehouse the SB3. If I can make one fit, ofcourse
that would then be the
Good question.
But I'm afraid I don't know either. Some definitive input on where to
attack the DAC supplies would be very useful. Anyone?
A possible alternative to SuperReg for me would be try a TentLabs Shunt
regulator, which at only 15 x 38 x 8mm might just fit inside the SB3
case. Don't
Skunk;186232 Wrote:
What would be helpful to me is if you/someone could define the
theoretical connection points in the following pic, especially in terms
of how Vcc,Vdd are powered together/separately (don't they need to see
their voltages in sequence- i.e. from a rail?).
Well it has
Hi,
I've recently modded my SB3 analogue output as per GaryB's original
post. Whipped out the opamp, upgraded the DAC to KE version and couple
directly to RCAs from DAC with Blackgate/Sonicap platinum bypass. It
sounds great. Big improvement over stock (thanks to GaryB for info),
but I want
parrydave;185952 Wrote:
Should I be looking at rerouting both the 3.3V and 5V Dac supply? The
5V Dac supply is most critical right? could this feed directly from the
external supply or will I introduce all kinds of mush into the mix? I
can't fit a superReg inside the SB3. Also is there
Skunk;186084 Wrote:
I suppose you could check the circuit that the 3.3V follows, and figure
you'll be OK with an external feed to the 5V only.
Sorry, I forgot/didn't realize you said no super regulator.
Here are a couple posts that may help in considering where to feed the
local superReg
I'm trying to get together a minium order to buy these transformers
from Scientic Conversion. I need three. I expect the price will be
again around $20 (unless the order size is more than 50 ;-)
If interested let me know by Wed noon.
--
Jitterbug
finally finished up my SB power supply for a friend... other than one
silly mishap (mixing up the pinout on the regulator IC), everything
came out ok. i didn't have time to do extensive measurements or
listening tests but he seems happy with it.
some construction details: Corcom line input
dorkus;185755 Wrote:
finally finished up my SB power supply for a friend... other than one
silly mishap (mixing up the pinout on the regulator IC), everything
came out ok. i didn't have time to do extensive measurements or
listening tests but he seems happy with it.
some construction
Anne;185805 Wrote:
Wow, nice, how much for one ? 230 volts please
the actual parts cost isn't so bad, i'd guess well under $100 not
including PCB fabrication... but the labor is a serious PITA. i briefly
toyed with the idea of doing a group parts buy and making kits at a
reasonable price,
dorkus;185809 Wrote:
some more pics, not very good quality but a few different angles:
http://marc.picbee.net/c/marc/gallery-show/GLqp5QIDNTEU
Shouldn't that top lug on the PEM be connected to a part of the case
where you have sanded down to bare metal? Also, in a two part enclosure
Skunk;185815 Wrote:
Shouldn't that top lug on the PEM be connected to a part of the case
where you have sanded down to bare metal? Also, in a two part enclosure
both halves should be connected to the safety ground IIRC. [i don't have
a reference and am not a tech]
yes, that would be the
dorkus;185817 Wrote:
yes, that would be the proper way, but i was lazy and in a rush, and my
friend has a really bad ground loop problem in his old apartment
building so he would have lifted it anyway. although i did account for
this somewhat... chassis ground is tied to circuit ground
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