Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 2:37 PM
To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters
There is the possibility that the 40 meter crystal has low activity.
Check the RF voltage at pin 4 of P1 on the band board. You should read
>> I am going to borrow an RF Power meter with probe and check 30 vs 40 meter
>> readings on the Premix in & out and the RF filter in & out. That will
>> greatly help pinpoint the issue.
>>
>> 73
>> Dave wo2x
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
e issue.
73
Dave wo2x
-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:39 AM
To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters
Dave,
Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune the trimmers on the
elp pinpoint the issue.
73
Dave wo2x
-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 11:39 AM
To: rocke...@gmail.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 low power and poor receive on 40 meters
Dave,
Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune
Dave,
Refer to the K1FL4 instructions and re-tune the trimmers on the filter
board. They MUST be done in the proper band sequence - 30 meters before
40m, 15m before 20m. The PreMixer portion is usually the most critical
for power output.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/20/2020 11:20 AM,
Hi All,
I am going to sell a K1-4 (4 band 40, 30, 20, 15) for the estate of my
Elmer. In testing the radio I found 40 meters is about 15dB less sensitivity
than 30 and power out about 75 mW. I have double checked the values of
components on the filter board to ensure they are correct and
INCREDIBLE RESULT!!!
I called Elecraft, and a few hours later, they called back: they found ONE
two-band board, and they're kitting it up with 20 and 80 for me. I'll have
to swap the boards to change, but I'll have a four-band K1.
EXTREMELY satisfied customer, still.
On Mon, Jul 1, 2019, 9:35
Lloyd,
Elecraft does still have some band kits for the 2 band board. Order the
kit for the band you wish to switch to.
There are no new 2 band boards available from Elecraft.
Yes, if you can find another 2 band board, you can change the band
boards easily. The K1 will remember the OPF
I'm acquiring a K1 with ATU, 30 and 40. Really would love to have 20 and 80.
If nothing else, I might be interested in seeing if it's possible to rework
the existing board for 20, instead of 30.
Is it possible to have four bands on two boards - that is, not on a
four-band board?
might it be
Hello,
I am assisting the family of a SK selling their ham radio gear.
The estate has a mint condition Elecraft K1 (sn#01739) with the
KFL1-4 four-band module (40,30,20,15m) which includes the KAT1
Antenna Tuner and the NB Noise Blanker. The circuit boards all look
to be professionally
Fred,
If 40 meters works, then 30 should also. They share the same low pass
filter and the inductors of the bandpass filter and Pre-Mixer bandpass
filter.
One possibility is that the crystal for 30 meters has gone bad. You can
check for that with an oscilloscope or RF Probe at P1 pin 4.
I just acquired a K1 4 bander from a ham in Ottawa. It has 40,30,20 and 15
meters in it. All bands operate and function as they should except for 30
meters. Have done some searches on this possible issue but nothing solid as of
yet. Anyone have a starting point where I might look to see or find
I have for sale a K1-4 (40,30,20,17) including a K1-2 board (80,15), internal
antenna tuner, tilt stand, and K1 backlight. All in excellent condition both
electrically and cosmetically. $475 shipped to lower 48 states.
Thanks,
MyronK4YA
Hi-
I have an excellent K1-4 for sale. It covers 40, 30, 20, 15 Meters. Has the
built in automatic antenna tuner and noise blanker. Also comes with the
original K1-2 band board that covers 40 and 20 with power cord. No scratches,
non smoker, used only in shack.
$415 shipped CONUS. In NH
I have for sale the above radio. If interested in details please contact
me off list at w...@arrl.net
Thanks, Lou - W6UR
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I'm hoping someone here might have had a similar issue, and save me some
time.
I recently installed a KAT1 into my K1-4. I have 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters
installed in the K1.
Symptoms: low output (0.1w) on 40 meters and 30 meters. KAT1 will not
match to 50 ohm dummy load on 40 meters.
Randy,
Did the KAT1 wattmeter balance (null) and power and SWR calibrations
proceed without incident?
The voltage obtained during the nulling procedure should have been in
the low millivolt range. If it was not, the problem may be in the
wattmeter portion of the KAT1. Check T1 very closely.
Hi,
what would you think of a six-band module ?
Would it be interresting for the elecraft K1 users ?
I am think about build one. With afined design which
is easier to align with different trim capacitors !
Your opinion ???
73
Herbert
--
View this message in context:
I'm happy with my 4-band module. Works great. And
added backlight yesterday: A very nice rig.
A six-band module would be good if you wanted
80-40-30-20-15 and one other band. I've never
operated QRP on 80, except PSK31 with the PSK-80.
Usually too antenna challenged when portable for
QRP on
Oh well, all good things eventually end. Kit building in the conventional
sense is probably a declining interest anyway. Having built both thru-hole
and SMT radios (ATS-3B), probably enjoy building about as much as operating.
Am thankful to have built a K1-4 (40/30/20/15) several years ago,
Curt,
All you say rings true. And this is an especially
important point:
/Changing band modules is a special pain for me
because installed the onboard tuner (which is
rarely used) into my K//1/
The band module resides under the ATU board making
such changes something not done without
Changing band modules is a special pain for me
because installed the onboard tuner (which is
rarely used) into my K//1/
The band module resides under the ATU board making
such changes something not done without some
strong motive.
Tom/N0SS described 14 years ago a simple technique that
I am aware of the rubber band trick, but I find no difficulty at all
in plugging the KAT1 even with loose standoffs.
First place the standoffs so they are close to the holes in the board.
Next (and most important) put the long screws through the KAT1 board -
hold them down with your fingers or
I use the technique with the rubber band and change filter board in 5 minutes
from I start to unscrew the first screw of the top cover.
73 de Hal/la4xx
K1 2929
On 14-07-23 19:12, Mike Morrow k...@earthlink.net wrote:
Changing band modules is a special pain for me
because installed the
Wow -- I kind of touched a nerve with the big boy reference! I recall this
term was used by Dave Benson in some of his SWL kit documentation. It
merely referred the reader to a stripped-down section of the instructions if
one wanted to bypass the lengthy, step-by-step narrative... My point is
while this string is open
I have used a small Iron and tweezers to position chip caps/resistors
tack one end and then do the other end,,, I use some liquid rosin
the multi lead devices make sure leads are centered on the board then
tack
one pin,,, solder the rest and use solder wick to clean up
I don't think it's a matter of technique, Bob. I
have all the right equipment (the special
tweezers, solder paste - in the fridge, a hot
plate, a heat gun). And I will do small, simple
boards -- which even a 4-band K1 would not be.
My problem is knowing that an ill timed sneeze can
cause a
Am 21.07.2014 14:40, schrieb N4OI - Ken:
Wow -- I kind of touched a nerve with the big boy reference! I recall this
term was used by Dave Benson in some of his SWL kit documentation. It
merely referred the reader to a stripped-down section of the instructions if
one wanted to bypass the
Simple SMD kits are fine because the success rate can be high and the
investment risk on the part of both the customer and the manufacturer is low.
We may offer such kits in the future, though we don't have any present plans
for these.
The percentage of builders who could complete a complex
Hi all,
as I started that idea with the SMT components, I will try to moderate a
little bit.
I am over sixty and so I know the problems with needs of special glasses
to handle the
SMT components down at 603 or 402 ( 1 x 0.5mm).
So my idea is, not designing without SMT, but for those who like
Hi Wayne, hi K1 friends,
I followed the discussion about the 4 band module and the problems.
I can imagine to design a replacement board with four or even more
bands in a way, that the problems with the alignment and the components
will be solved. I do not know, if the dialogue to the PIC was
Hi Wayne, hi K1 friends,
I followed the discussion about the 4 band module and the problems.
I can imagine to design a replacement board with four or even more
bands in a way, that the problems with the alignment and the components
will be solved. I do not know, if the dialogue to the PIC was
I was reminded how capable the K1 is a couple weeks ago at a beach house at
Seabrook Island, SC... I broke away from family activities for just a
couple hours one night and made solid K1 DX QSOs with Ukraine, Sweden, Italy
and others using just a lightweight 20 meter dipole tied to the corner of
I will second that.
I built two Weber MTRs and in many ways it was easier than through-hole, except
for the size. I used a soldering iron.
“No soldering required” kits are no fun to me. I would never say that I built
my KX3 for instance, only assembled it.
Gil.
--
PGP Key:
Not all serious hams would agree with you. In my
first SMT effort I was very careful but lost one
part. Looked all over for it. Two days later I
found it in my shoe.
I have paste, hot air gun, hot plate -- all the
goodies -- but I try to avoid using them, a matter
of mental stress -- and,
And, not all hams are able to have a workbench or shack to house the
needed gear. Sometimes, things like that intervene. While it would
be nice to be able to build, not everyone can, even if they have the
desire and experience. Doesn't mean they aren't serious about ham
radio.
73 de
LOL, yes, size is definitely an issue. I use glasses, a magnifying lens and
tweezers. You do not have to cut leads that end up everywhere though. It is
precise work, no doubt, especially on the ICs. I know in ten or fifteen years I
may not be able to see those parts anymore. I like SMT though,
And here's a third.
I built one of Weber's ATS-3B kits and use it on occasion, such as during
Field Day 2011.
http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/HamRadio/FieldDay2011/FieldDay2011.htm
The demand and popularity of his kits is evident as the last run of MTRs
sold out literally hours after it
... perhaps it is time for Elecraft to start offering some big boy kits
that make full use of SMTs and other modern components.
Some would likely take exception to that strong implication that one is
not a big boy (whatever that means) if one rejects significant SMT hand
application. I've
Just imagine a KX3 kitted at the parts level. I
wonder if the price would be less than the current
offering?
Phil W7OX
On 7/20/14, 9:22 AM, Dave KW4M wrote:
And here's a third.
I built one of Weber's ATS-3B kits and use it on occasion, such as during
Field Day 2011.
Phil,
I suspect the cost would be significantly greater than for the assembled
board version that we have now.
To produce a kit, the parts would have to be pulled and counted,
capacitors hand marked for values and packaged in some reasonable manner
- that is a lot of labor cost. Much greater
On assembling versus building...
I think my hobby of woodworking has almost ripped away my soldering iron from
my hot little hands. I still have a solder-kit sitting on my desk ready to be
put together (the W1 meter) and it just sits there. All my spare time this
summer is building white oak
That was my thinking, too, Don.
Phil W7OX
On 7/20/14, 10:16 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Phil,
I suspect the cost would be significantly
greater than for the assembled board version
that we have now.
To produce a kit, the parts would have to be
pulled and counted, capacitors hand marked for
I have to agree with Mike, especially with the assertion about SMT
components being intended for robotic assembly.
Imagine all of the troubleshooting calls and e-mails that Elecraft would
get if Joe Ham had to populate circuit boards with these miniature
components. Too much room for error.
While I understand this mindset; I for one, am grateful that there are
SMT-based kits available. I enjoy building both thru-hole and SMT based
projects. In many cases, thru hole equivalents are not available for some
components. I have built many all-SMT projects, notably those offered by
KD1JV,ad
Support your local maker space, they will likely have the gear and knowledge
to do SMT… and probably a bunch of young guys that have never seen HAM before
or know the potential.
On Jul 20, 2014, at 3:04 PM, Jim Lowman jmlow...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
I have to agree with Mike, especially with
More power to you and others who have the patience, equipment and
eyesight/hand coordination to work with SMT devices, Bruce.
I think what many of us are saying, is that type of construction is not
for everyone.
I have a nice Weller soldering station and a variety of tips for it, as
well as
My first experience with SMT was building a softrock multiband
receiver kit. It is a hybrid through hole/SMT kit, with few different
types of SMT devices. I really enjoyed building it, and learned a lot
from it, and would recommend it to anyone wanting to dip their toe in
the water, so to speak.
I build all my SMT projects with my 30+ year old Weller WTCPT iron, and an
Optivisor. Have been for years now.
Bruce/N1RX
Jim/ AD6CW wrote:More power to you and others who have the patience,
equipment and
eyesight/hand coordination to work with SMT devices, Bruce.
I think what many of us are
Oh yes, that! I didn't think of it as SMT because
it has four leads. Took me a while to figure out
how to orient it, though. I sneezed and almost
lost that critter.
And I have two spares -- so mine is likely to last
forever.
Phil W7OX
On 7/20/14, 5:30 PM, Matt Maguire wrote:
The only science I can think of has to do with propagation. It seems to
me that 20m/40m would give the best overall opportunity for use hour by
hour over the course of a full sunspot cycle. Everything else pretty
much just boils down to personal preference or available space for antennas.
I am sad about the recent turn of events but not surprised. I bought the K1-2
band right after it was available with an extra 2 band board. When the 4 band
board was introduced, I jumped on that purchase. I will probably buy a few of
the 2 band boards before they are gone. I don't want any
All this talk about the K1 backlight led me to look back at the K1 order
page. There is no option for a 4-band version, nor for the KFL1-4 4-band
filter module itself. Is this an oversight, or has the 4-band board been
discontinued? If so, when and why? Also if so, then the K1 description page
Yes, Bruce, it looks like this:
/T//he K1...A compact, high-performance CW
rig that _you_ can build./
//
/HF operation is more fun than ever these
days--five watts is all you need to work worldwide
DX. That's why we've packed up to four bands into
our affordable, easy-to-build
I emailed Elecraft about it and they said the 4-band module is unlikely to come
back.
http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,824.0.html
Gil.
--
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
On Jul 17, 2014, at 11:47 AM, Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com wrote:
needs an edit -- unless lack of a 4-band
This is sad news indeed. I have built a few K1s, and repaired a few for
others. The 4 band board made for a very capable rig, without the swapping
that the 2 band version requires. A redesign/reintroduction would be nice,
but I imagine it's primarily a business decision, rather than strictly an
Bummer -- and Lisa's exact words from that link
were more definite and final:
/The 4-band board was discontinued due to a part
availability issue that was crucial to the
functionality of the KF1-4. So no, it will not be
coming back sorry to say./
The 4-band K1 is a really nice, small QRP
And, here I was planning to get a 4-band K1 this fall. Yes, real Bummer.
So, I figure that I could do one of the following:
(1)Buy THREE 2-band K1 radios (saves on interchanging other bands).
(2)Buy the Two band option board and get along with 4 bands.
(3)Stick with
Bad news...for those who don't have one.
The K1-4 was my introduction to both Elecraft and purpose-built QRP
rigs. It's easily in the top 3 favorite radios I have owned in half a
century. I think Gil called it a cute mini K2 in the link below, and
that's a pretty good description. It's big
The part that has become unavailable is the blue trimmer capacitors that
are used for tuning the bandpass filters. That does *not* spell demise
of the K1, but only the 4 band board.
Yes, sorry that it is gone, but the K1 with a 2 band board and an extra
2 band board will give you 4 band
Hi Bruce,
The 4-band module requires extremely low-temperature-coefficient trimmer
capacitors because of its narrow-band pre-mix and RF band-pass filters. The
last source for these exotic trimmers dried up recently. A redesign using
higher-TC trimmers might be possible, but the filters would
What is the crucial part that caused this? Inquiring minds wanna know.
WT5Y
Sent from my Cricket smartphone
Original message
From: EricJ eric_c...@hotmail.com
Date: 07/17/2014 13:32 (GMT-06:00)
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone
The K1 can remember the frequency offset settings for 6 bands, so having
3 2-band boards is quite practical. You get to choose which 2 bands go
together on one board for most of your operating pleasure.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 7/17/2014 2:14 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:
And, here I was planning to get a
Thanks for taking the time to reply with the details, Wayne. It's a shame. I
(and many others) feel the K1 has some advantages over the KX1, such as the
analog VFO, higher output power, and 4-pole filtering. It's internal antenna
matching unit also offers more tuning range than the KX1. I have
Wayne wrote:
The 4-band module requires extremely low-temperature-coefficient
trimmer capacitors because of its narrow-band pre-mix and RF band-pass
filters. The last source for these exotic trimmers dried up recently.
If all the other parts of the KFL1-4 were still stocked, perhaps those
Here's another thought that perhaps one of us could put together:
give up the internal battery space for a considerably larger filter board
that could be used to allow room for additional 2 band style filters
that don't share components (and, thus, don't need high-tolerance parts).
No
Don wrote:
The K1 can remember the frequency offset settings for 6 bands...
The K1 remembers the frequency display calibration settings (OFS)
for all *nine* HF bands between 160m and 10m (60m is excluded),
and automatically uses the one previously stored for a particular
band when that band gets
Jessie wrote:
I'll have to give mine a close look for mechanical feasibility when I
get home.
It is not feasible.
Mike / KK5F
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Howdy Fellow Elecrafters:
OK...it's so obvious even I figured it out.
Notice that we have a KX1 and a KX3??
What happened to the KX2?? Well, read on.
I predict the next new transceiver from Elecraft will render obsolete the K1-4
and KX1 obsolete...it will be called, obviously, the KX2.
It
Hi Joe,
Nice try, but...not :) The KX3 *is* our SOTA/IOTA/FD rig, and we're all busy
getting the new options out the door (PX3, KX3-2M/4M) and associated new
firmware.
Wayne
N6KR
On Jul 17, 2014, at 1:50 PM, Joe W2KJ w...@bellsouth.net wrote:
Howdy Fellow Elecrafters:
OK...it's so
Besides,
I would really be surprised if Elecraft to get a price point for the so-called
KX2 to justify it. I am thinking that it would be priced too close to the KX3.
I already have a KX1 for those times when my KX3 is not my travel choice.
And, I don't need all those bands because my
Hi Mike,
I appreciate your thoughts on the K1. You're right -- it has a much simpler
user interface than the KX3, and lower receive-mode current drain.
But, regarding size and weight: The KX3 weighs only slightly more than the K1
(1.5 vs. 1.4 lbs), and the KX3 is roughly 30% smaller than the
On Thu, 2014-07-17 at 11:14 -0700, Phil Hystad wrote:
And, here I was planning to get a 4-band K1 this fall. Yes, real Bummer.
I was about to buy one, sold my first, what a mistake!
I vote for a redesign as well!
Gil.
__
Elecraft
For sale K1-4
Bands: 40,30,20 and 17meters
KAT1 : Automatic Tuner
KNB1: Noise Blanker
Backlight Mod
It is a surplus to my needs, now that I have a KX3. Asking $375. Very good
condition with limited use.
Anyone have a schematic to get a K1-4 on 160 meters ???
BYRON / N4AX
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Byron,
Not possible.
The K1-4 has only 2 low pass filters, one has a cutoff frequency above
the 30 meter band and works well for both 40 and 30 meters. The other
has a cutoff above the 15 meter band and works well for 20, 17, and/or
15 meters.
You could use the lower band for 160 meters
Gang,
I never thought I'd do this, but I'm selling my Elecraft K1 4-band QRP
rig #1066. I purchased and built this radio in 2002 and have used it
mostly portable for hundreds if not thousands of contacts. Includes KAT1
internal tuner, KBT1 internal battery pack, and the backlight display
The K1 has been sold.
73, Dave NK0E
David Ek d...@eksfiles.net wrote:
Gang,
I never thought I'd do this, but I'm selling my Elecraft K1 4-band QRP
rig #1066. I purchased and built this radio in 2002 and have used it
mostly portable for hundreds if not thousands of contacts. Includes
KAT1
I changed out the headphone jack now the speaker is working again thank you.
What voltage am I looking for at TP1 SWR bridge adjustment??? mV - V? On the
KAT1.
T1 is wound correctly.
Relays all soldered.
Thank you,
Scotty/NU0S
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
Scotty,
You should be looking for the lowest voltage available - if it in not in
the low millivolt range, (less than 10 mV) you have some problem. The
most common cause of problems is T1. Inadequately stripped and tinned
toroid leads, leads in the wrong holes, the toroid wound in the wrong
Hey I got the ATU figured out. My bad as the kids say. I did not exit the menu
when taking the tests. All the options are installed now. Now off to make more
QSO's. Ready for pbmme polar bear QRP weekend. Grrr...
73-Scotty-NU0S
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
Scotty Long
Don and all on the post thanks for help and input. The K1 is working/playing
great. Just worked Randy KB4QQJ on 40m with his KX3 sounding great as well. Now
I must save up for my K2...
73-Scotty-NU0S
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
Just installed NB works great.
Newly installed KAT1 page 9 no appreciable value change volts when adjusting
C9...
Scotty/NU0S
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
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Scotty,
The most common cause for that behavior is a problem with T1 - leads not
adequately stripped and tinned, leads not in the correct holes, the
toroid wound in the wrong direction (it must be *exactly* like the
figure in the manual), inadequate soldering.
One other (but less common)
Thank you I will check...
Scotty/NU0S
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
Scotty,
The most common cause for that behavior is a problem with T1 - leads not
adequately stripped and tinned, leads not in the correct holes, the
toroid wound in the
I also have a surplus 4 band K1, basic, no ATU. It is in the UK where I live.
I would like a second K3 so if anyone is interested, contact me off list
with an offer.
Mike
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K1-4-Band-For-Sale-tp7576727p7578336.html
Sent from
For Sale is my Elecraft K1, S/N 3141 four-band transceiver covering 40/30/20
and 15 meters. It includes the KAT1 Antenna Tuner and KNB1 Noise Blanker.
Also included is a custom tilt stand made from red oak. Photos available
upon request.
I am the original owner and built the K1 very carefully.
Is there a simply way when searching on this e-mail list to search only for K1
kit posts as this is my first Elecraft kit (the K1-4) after building Heathkits
of old when I was 13-15 years old? Thanks for your help guys as Elecraft now
seems to be my replacement for Heathkits in the year 2013!
Jim / W1FMR wrote:
The 26.050 crystal was replaced with the kit supplied 29.000 MHz
crystal for 15m and the K1 realigned on all bands.
All seemed to go well with the receive and transmit alignment
with the power level set to 2 watts per the manual.
However now the power will not go above 2
Hi Jim.
I've had the same problem with my K1. It turned out to be a bad crystal, so my
suggestion is to get another crystal for the 15m band.
73 de Hal
la4xx
On 13-06-12, Jimithy66 jimith...@gmail.com wrote:
My K1 was a wonderful radio on all bands 40 - 17m.
However 17m saw very little use
Jim,
Either you have a weak 15 meter crystal, or the bandpass filters are not
properly peaked on 15 meters.
Do you have an RF Probe or a 'scope? If so, measure the RF voltage at
P1 pin 6 on the 4 band board. It should be greater than 70 mV rms or
200 mV peak to peak. You can do a
My K1 was a wonderful radio on all bands 40 - 17m.
However 17m saw very little use and 15m was desired..
The 26.050 crystal was replaced with the kit supplied 29.000 MHz
crystal for 15m and the K1 realigned on all bands.
All seemed to go well with the receive and transmit alignment
with the
I am looking for a K1, preferably with ATU and internal battery options.
If you have one available, please reply with an asking price and photo.
Thanks...
--Ken WA4SQM
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K1 question VFO range test page 38;I have L1 adjusted with 32 turns red enamel
wire. The VFO is adjusted to 3.099 - 3.067. Is this normal or am I missing some
VFO range???
Thank you,
73/Scotty/NU0S
Scotty,
That is a very narrow range, with the 68 pF capacitor at C2, you should
have 80 to 100 kHz, and with the 120 pF you will have about 150 kHz.
Check the orientation of D3 - the shorter flat side is the rounded
side. Also check C11 and C12 to be certain they are both 1200 pF (and
not
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Stan asked:
Could you give a little more info on your foam tape suggestion.
I have noticed some vibrations with my K1 when a loud station is heard.
Where exactly do you put the tape?
How thick of a tape did you use?
The corners of the K1 front panel (FP) PCB do not rest firmly against the
After almost
12 years, it's still a gem. All I could wish for now is an official
re-design of the KFL1-4's 40m/30m section for 12m/10m.
Dear Mike,
I agree with you, but the release of the new KX3 could make anachronistic
any wish to improve both the K1 and the KX1.
But, all in all, after 12
As Don suggested I checked RF signal on U1, U2, D2, Q2 and Q1.
For the last component, surprisingly, I found it was missing!
I checked it on assembly step, on page 28, but I didn't install it at all.
So I have installed the 2N7000 FET and now S-meter is working very well
(using factory defaults).
Dear Don,
thank a lot for your help! The problem now is solved!
As you suggested I checked RF signal on U1, U2, D2, Q2 and Q1, but for
the last component I found it was missing!
I checked it on assembly step on page 28 but I didn't install it at all.
So I have installed the 2N7000 FET and now
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