John,
Certainly, but it is a permanent change (until changed back) and
requires soldering.
Leave the wire to the dot side board (the one connected to the tip of
the plug - use your ohmmeter) connected, but remove the wire to the dash
side (goes to the ring).
Then wire the dot side and dash si
Good Day Everyone,
Is it possible to re-jigger the KXPD1 as a sideswiper (not a straight key)?
Tnx es 72/73,
John K4ARQ
--
John Flynn
Tallahassee, Florida
USA
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Thanks to the many who offered suggestions in reply to my query. Some
were very inventive; all are worth considering.
Specifically as to the KXPD2-K2 adapter (Fran¹s note below), the linked
photo looks like a very good solution. However, the adapter seems no
longer to be on the Elecraft Order Pa
Moe wrote:
>Being a connoisseur of the various grades of Loctite, frustration with
>the loosening of the KXPD1 thumbscrew tempts me to use a drop of #242,
>know as, and the color of, "blue." This is the "removable" grade. My
>question is, has anyone here (especially W3FPR) used this successfull
Another approach is to substitute a socket head cap screw for the knurled
screw provided in the kit.
Steven Bornstein K8IDN
475 E. North Broadway
Columbus, Ohio 43214
614 263-5819
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Moe,
I would shudder to think of locktite of any variety being used on the
KXPD1 thumbscrew - you just might want to remove it someday. Removable
is just not that much "removable" - it works for things that need
wrenches to remove, but the thumbscrew is a small diameter.
Newer KXPD1s come wi
Being a connoisseur of the various grades of Loctite, frustration with the
loosening of the KXPD1 thumbscrew tempts me to use a drop of #242, know as,
and the color of, "blue." This is the "removable" grade. My question is,
has anyone here (especially W3FPR) used this successfully?
73 de Moe
AB
Steve,
The KXPD1 can be very sensitive. The action will feel stiff if you are
in the habit of applying pressure to the paddles with your thumb and
finger well up onto the cover pads. If you make contact near the outer
ends of the finger pads, the action can be very sensitive. The outward
cu
Hi All,
I wonder if I made an assembly error when putting together my KXPD1 paddle.
Its action is very stiff. I need to hold the radio to be able to apply
enough pressure to make the dots and dashes. If you look at this SQ5M video
that I found on YouTube the action is very light.
http://tinyurl.c
The clamp is sold. Thanks!
Greg
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of AB7R
Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 12:56 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KXPD1 key bail clamp FS
I have a bail clamp for the KXPD1 sitting here bored
I have a bail clamp for the KXPD1 sitting here bored with nothing to do. :)
If anyone would like it for $30 please let me know. The Elecraft item
number is KXPD1-K2.
Thanks
Greg
AB7R
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Hello,
I have a limited number of adapter kits for the KXPD1 paddle, so those
folks who already own a KXPD1 can use it as a regular desktop paddle. The
kits allow you to mount the KXPD1 paddle on a conventional base, and connect
it to your favorite rig or keyer. The base is 3 inches square, a
It appears that it would be simple to adapt the KXPD1 for use with the K1 by
manufacturing a simple L-bracket that afixes to the KTS1 and would actually
be cheaper than the bracket for the K2. That extra thumbscrew with the KTS1
can hold the bracket in place on the stand
I may have missed s
While I love the simplicity of this idea, the only concern I would have for
myself if it is directly plugged in to any board-mounted elecraft key jack is
that the jack is not designed for constant pushing back abnd forth and will
likely cause premature failure of the board and/or jack.
NOTE: Elec
What I did was to put a couple small drops "Liquid Electrical Tape" on the
paddles around the screw on the side that goes against the KX1 case and
after it dried well there was no more slipping when attached.
73 - Mike WA8BXN
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Elecraft mailing
I would not use a lock washer, I would use a flat washer...A lock washer is
intended to permanently anchor a nut or screw..(bolt ?)The sharp edges on it
bite into the metal...In the case of the KXPD1 paddle, the body of the paddle
is aluminum, a relatively soft metal...Since the paddle will most
In a message dated 6/17/06 8:09:53 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> How many hams have a 6-32 die in their tool kit
Me!
also 4-40 and 8-32
Thread-a-nut-before-you-cut works well, though.
73 de Jim, N2EY
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Elecraft mailing li
Jeremiah McCarthy wrote:
How many hams have a 6-32 die in their tool kit to use on the paddle
screw?...And, if they did have one, it would not be necessary to thread it onto
the screw beforehand...
Jerry, wa2dkg
I for one have dies and taps from 4-40 to at least 3/8-24 plus a few
metrics.
How many hams have a 6-32 die in their tool kit to use on the paddle
screw?...And, if they did have one, it would not be necessary to thread it onto
the screw beforehand...
Jerry, wa2dkg
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You m
A response to my earlier post regarding the knurled screw on the KXPD1 paddle
suggests that a proper nut be threaded onto the screw before cutting it, then
back the nut off, thereby cleaning up the threads...Yes, this is a time honored
method of chasing a damaged thread, and is used on many of t
Alsoif you have a nut that you can thread onto the
screw before filing, when you back it off after the filing
is done it will help restore the threads on the screw.
73
Greg
AB7R
On Thu, 15 Jun 2006 10:00:12 -0500
"Jeremiah McCarthy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I have built about 10 KX1's
I have built about 10 KX1's and the retaining screw for the paddle DOES
protrude through the anchor nut and in some cases strikes the circuit board,
preventing the paddle from being pulled up tight...Not everyone who buys a KX1
also buys the paddle, so it might not be encountered a lot, but I ha
Hi N0TU!
You might want to take a look at the link below for a great field paddle.
http://www.wa3wsj.com/files/ATpaddle/ATpaddle.html
72,
Ed, WA3WSJ
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ion if you find one.
Eric
KE6US
www.ke6us.com
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n0tu/Steve
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 6:24 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KXPD1 cold WX operation?
Has anyone come
While out in the woods yesterday doing the Polar Bear event (good wx
for it - in the 20s w/wind chill taking it lower!!) I discovered my
KXPD1 is not the same paddle as it is sitting on the bench at room
temps. Which is often the case! My soft supple antenna wire becomes a
slinky at 20*. I can hear
Paul,
The KXPD1 is a bit pricier than the Whiterook, but the ATU and the
paddle go together to make a rig that really does work with nothing
else, just a couple of short wires.
I started out without either, but realized that Elecraft was right, and
making it self-contained is a big deal.
The
: Ron D'Eau Claire <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 5:42:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 Question
I can speak up on this, it's a VERY NICE little paddle! When you build
it you'll see how it works, and there's some adjustability
I can speak up on this, it's a VERY NICE little paddle! When you build
it you'll see how it works, and there's some adjustability but it's
difficult to explain, just get one and see. You can take this paddle
and mount it to a stand with a little stereo jack and a threaded hole
to accept the ret
Paul, N8XMS wrote:
I would be very interested in hearing your opinions about the KXPD1 Plug-in
Keyer Paddle for the KX1. How does it feel? Is it adjustable? Is it worth
the price? etc. I'm trying to decide if I want to include one when I order
a KX1.
I've been using a Whiterook Products MK-6
Hello everybody,
I would be very interested in hearing your opinions about the KXPD1 Plug-in
Keyer Paddle for the KX1. How does it feel? Is it adjustable? Is it worth the
price? etc. I'm trying to decide if I want to include one when I order a KX1.
I've been using a Whiterook Products MK-64
On Mon, 28 Nov 2005, Bob Nielsen wrote:
A Brown Brothers paddle isn't really comparable to a Bencher (it's much
better IMHO, and feels almost as good as my Begali Simplex).
Wow...I have two Brown Brothersthe paddle and the paddle/key combo...
Love how they work...and nice to know that they
A Brown Brothers paddle isn't really comparable to a Bencher (it's
much better IMHO, and feels almost as good as my Begali Simplex).
I've been concerned about the same thing, but maybe I'll give the
KXPD1 a try. At least it is a lot lighter than any of my other keys
(except the White Rook,
out the KXPD1 is "Try it, you'll like it."
72/73
Jim - W0EB
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of tom
> Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 7:12 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] kxpd1
&
Tom,
I am strictly a 'single lever paddle' person - in fact I have trouble with
most dual lever paddles --- but the KXPD1 is quite easy for me to use. I
really don't know why, but it just feels 'natural' to me. I don't own one
myself, but have built several for others and found it to be a pleasa
I find the KXPD1 to be just fine. For a lot of rag chewing, I prefer my
Benchers, but that really isn't what goes on (for me at least) with the
KX1. I tend to make QRP QSO's, maybe 3 or 4 exchanges, or do some QRP
contesting like the Spartan or FOBB. The KXPD1 doesn't offer much
tactile feed
Hi, Tom
My KX1 is brand new. I didn't know if I'd like the KXPD1 either, but I decided
to give it a try. My usual paddle is an old Brown Bros. iambic-- comparable to
the Bencher. I use single lever techniques (never quite got the hang of the
"squeeze" techniques).
As I was assembling the
hello to all, a general question.. considering the kx1 with the kxpd1. Not sure
if the paddles will be to my liking. I am a long time Bencher paddle fan. If
anyone can give me any thoughts on what I might expect by comparision?
thanks for reading and responding 73
___
Mine has the same problem. I discovered the headphones were clogged by a
large dense hairy object between the two earphones. Unfortunately, it can't
be fixed.
Odd, all of my headphones exhibit that same problem ... but the large
dense object is not hairy.
Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw
__
>Mine has the same problem. I discovered the headphones were clogged by a
large dense hairy object between the two earphones. Unfortunately, it can't
be fixed.
True, large dense hairy objects cannot be fixed, but they can be divorced.
*DISCLAIMER*
This is humor. No Flames Please.
Paul N8NOV
z, Jr.
Sent: Friday, September 09, 2005 9:01 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1
My KX1 has trouble receiving CW reliably at more than 20WPM, and by 25WPM it
only gets isolated words .. ..
Leigh / WA5ZNU
On Fri, 9 Sep 2005 8:36 am, [EMAIL PROT
Could it be caused by the person with the headphones on?...LOL
73
Jim K4ZM
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My KX1 has trouble receiving CW reliably at more than 20WPM, and by
25WPM it only gets isolated words .. ..
Leigh / WA5ZNU
On Fri, 9 Sep 2005 8:36 am, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
...it works well (took a test run at 20 wpm, 25 wpm,30 wpm and 35 wpm
with no sending errors...
_
Great order support from Elecraft. A local ham (WI6T) let me use his KXPD1
on Sunday, and I placed an order for mine on Sunday night. Got an email on
Tuesday that said it was shipped. Arrived in the mailbox on Thursday. Got it
built Thursday night and it works well (took a test run at 20 wpm,
>...My question is how do I make the paddles less sensitive to touch. I
find that the left side (dits) is very sensitive, and at one point, it
started sending dits all on its own. I have squeezed the wires inside
down as close to the PC board as they can be, but that didn't help. The
right side of
Hi Wayne,
I've been kicking around several designs to mount a KXPD1 paddle to the right
side panel of a K1, and later, a K2.
Before I get too sporting, are you thinking of some sort of mount that would
allow the paddle to be affixed to your other rigs?
Thanks,
Jay
N5ACM
_
Try swapping the rubber grips. My craftsmanship left the wire on the "dit"
side is a little bumpy, even after squishing it with needle nose pliers-it
sends continuous dits with one of the rubber sleeves, but not the other.
Also, make sure the spring steel levers are aligned so that they fit into
t
The KXPD1 is the custom paddle we supply for use with the KX1
transceiver. Many KXPD1 users have suggested that we supply a label to
cover the soldered connections on the paddle's 1/8th inch plug. We have
now done just that. It looks nicer than the exposed leads, and the
leads are better protec
I just got done with my KX1 construction, including the KXPD1 paddles.
Another very nice setup from Elecraft! My question is how do I make the
paddles less sensitive to touch. I find that the left side (dits) is very
sensitive, and at one point, it started sending dits all on its own. I have
squeez
AIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [Elecraft] KXPD1 assembly question
To:
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I am at the step where you solder the two pieces of hook-up wire to the lugs
of the stereo plug. Does anyone have advice about how to best ca
At 6/15/2004 09:58 AM, Eric Ward wrote:
>I ended up doing about like Dave sez below, with the modification that I
>threaded the wires through the lug holes before attaching the PC
>boards--then I screwed them in and pulled the excess wire through the lug
>holes with needle nose pliers, being carefu
D]
Sent: Monday, June 14, 2004 9:31 PM
To: Eric Ward; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KXPD1 assembly question
1) bend the tip lug in at about a 15 degree abgle
2) bend the wire so that it will fit through the hole and solder it in place
with not a lot of solder
3) bend the tip lug b
I dont think any one method is right, but I was surprised how difficult it was
not with patience and a sharp pair of flush cut nippers when I did the
following:
1) bend the tip lug in at about a 15 degree abgle
2) bend the wire so that it will fit through the hole and solder it in place
with not a
I don't know if it is right, but I rotated the lugs themselves so that
one was in the channel at the bottom and then just bent the other one
down towards the center of the hole and there was enough room to slide a
piece of hooked wire in.
On Mon, 14 Jun 2004 1:36pm, Eric Ward wrote:
I am at the
ense... On defense you have to be thinking."
---Chris Chelios
David M. Katinsky
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
N2RDT
> From: Eric Ward <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 11:52:05 -0400
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] KXPD1 assembly question
>
> I
I am at the step where you solder the two pieces of hook-up wire to the lugs
of the stereo plug. Does anyone have advice about how to best carry that
out?
Here are the ways I can imagine doing it:
Thread them through the holes in the lugs (with tweezers), solder, and then
cut off the excess
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