Thanks to all who have helped me here on the Reflector , maturing as a
ELECRAFT Newbie
One more query.
Using ( 2 )2 -channel filter boards , instead of the 4 channel
board which is no longer available , I am confused as to how to configure
the channel #'s of them.
It seems to
Dave,
When the K1 detects a 2 band board, it will only show b1 and b2. You
will have to set those two parameters each time you change the board.
The frequency offsets are remembered for each band, so unless there is a
duplication of a band between the two boards, you will not have to
change
I am an ELECRAFT Newbie. Just finished a K! and it works great out
of the box. I am slowly learning the operating stunts with the TAP /
HOLD feature .
One little glitch . To set the output power , it sets properly , say at
4.0 Watts, with the WPM +/- buttons , but after a
Dave,
That sounds like the behavior of an unsoldered or poorly soldered
connection that is heating when you transmit. I don't know where to
tell you to start looking, but if you want to shorten the search, you
might be able to tell something from the Transmit Signal Tracing steps
in the
Nice looking and working Elecraft QRP K1 with the KFL1-4 band filter board
installed, 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters. It will not transmit on 15m. I talked
with Don w3fpr and after a voltage check he thought that the bandpass filters
needed to be adjusted. Works great on all other bands. Output is
G’day
After my earlier ad for a basic Elecraft K1 (no extras) two-bander covering 40m
and 20m, it was suggested to me off-list that I was cutting down my options and
it would be better simply asking if there was anyone who had had a Elecraft K1
of any kind for sale. I think the writer had
G’day
I am looking for a basic Elecraft K1 (no extras) two-bander covering 40m and
20m. Please email me direct if you have one that you are interested in selling.
Thank you!
Vy 73
Steve, VK6VZ
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Curt wrote:
I thought the K1 was the commercial version of the Sierra.
The...er...Sierra is the commercial version of the Sierra. :-)
It's still sold by Wilderness Radio.
The Sierra is rather different from the K1. Not least difference
being the four PIC controllers found in the
Maybe not.
The Sierra has been shown on the Wilderness Radio website as out of stock for
quite a while now.
Too bad. It was a very versatile kit.
73,
Rick Dettinger K7MW
On Oct 19, 2014, at 11:02 AM, Mike Morrow wrote:
The...er...Sierra is the commercial version of the Sierra. :-)
I thought the K1 was the commercial version of the Sierra. Didn't the
Sierra predate Elecraft?
BTW, the K1 is about the neatest QRP radio I own, even above my K2. I've
built boards for every band 80M-10M, especially enjoy working from the patio
@ 1W into an EFHW on 20M. It's my go to rig
Howdy fellow Elecrafters.
Would like to get in contact with anyone out there who has interfaced a Cumbria
Designs X-Lock VFO stabilizer with a K1.
73, Joe W2KJ
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Joe,
I have not tried it, but Davbe G4AON has written a paper on his
installation. You can see it at
http://www.cumbriadesigns.co.uk/images/X-Lock%20K1/X-Lock_K1.pdf.
It looks straightforward enough to me. I would think you would have to
adjust the VFO range after installation, but that is
Oh no -- I'm not yet done with my K1, it appears.
I wondered why the pdf file below showed no photos
with the mounting of the board in the K1; then I
read For the time being it is working perfectly
while wrapped in bubble wrap! :-)
73, Phil W7OX
On 10/17/14, 7:21 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Phil,
Scroll down a bit and you will see the photos - unless you have
something lacking in the .pdf viewer in your browser - in that case,
download the link by right clicking and choose save file as then open
it with Adobe Reader.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 10/17/2014 11:12 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
I noticed the same thing that Phil did. Three photos show up. Not one of
them shows the X-Lock in or out of bubble wrap. The hookup photos were
less interesting to me at this point than how he was able to stuff it in
the K1.
Eric
KE6US
On 10/17/2014 8:28 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Phil,
Scroll
Hi.
I have noticed that the K1 and Sierra rcvrs are very similar (as 602 based
designs). The main difference is imo that the Sierra has a MC1350 IF amp
(as has the K2 btw) followed by an LM386, but the K1 seems to do all
amplification after XFIL on AF frequencies using LM386+LM380.
Could/have
Since you consider yourself as an RF tinkerer, it sounds like an interesting
experiment. Since the technology in the K1 predates my interest in Elecraft,
probably the up to date inclusions in the Sierra were not available when the K1
was designed 20 years or so ago. The K3 design is not
... probably the up to date inclusions in the Sierra were not available
when the K1 was designed 20 years or so ago...
The Sierra predates the K1. The NE602 mixer and MC1350 IF amp was in common
use long before the Sierra was designed and even longer before Elecraft was
formed. Elecraft used
...were not available when the K1 was designed 20 years or so ago.
That's a pretty fanciful date to just pick out of thin air! :-)
There wasn't anything that was Elecraft 20 years ago. The K1 was shown
first at Dayton 2000, after which many of us ordered one. The first
deliveries to the mass
More history - Elecraft was formally created July of 1998. (We began working on
the K2 design well before that.)
We shipped the first 100 K2 Field Test Units January and Feb. of 1999. We took
orders for production K2 kits at Dayton in May of 1999.
We followed that with the K1, then the KX1,
Well ... Thanks for the history. One can also look at Elecraft's website
http://www.elecraft.com/about_elecraft.htm
But my question remains: Why did the (very early) Sierra and the (first
Elecraft product) K2 have IF amp (MC1350 - and of course the standard AF
amp LM386), but the K1 was
Roy,
I think one of the reasons for the change from the MC1350 to the NE612
followed by the LM386 was due to the fact that when the K1 was designed,
the MC1350 in its DIP format was not to be used for current designs.
Yes, the MC1350 is still available in SMD format, and Elecraft has
Yep - the K2 uses LM380, but the Sierra uses only an LM386 as headphone
amp. My ill formulated sentence. But it doesn't matter - its all AF dBs.
My point is that the Sierra and the K2 uses an IF amp MC1350 before the
product detector 602 (612, NE, SA ...), and gets a 'proper' AGC. The K2 is
of
Hmm .. so where is the KX2, Eric? :-)
73, Phil W7OX
On 10/17/14, 6:34 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ,
Elecraft wrote:
More history - Elecraft was formally created
July of 1998. (We began working on the K2 design
well before that.)
We shipped the first 100 K2 Field Test Units
January and Feb. of
I'm hoping someone here might have had a similar issue, and save me some
time.
I recently installed a KAT1 into my K1-4. I have 40, 30, 20, and 15 meters
installed in the K1.
Symptoms: low output (0.1w) on 40 meters and 30 meters. KAT1 will not
match to 50 ohm dummy load on 40 meters.
Randy,
Did the KAT1 wattmeter balance (null) and power and SWR calibrations
proceed without incident?
The voltage obtained during the nulling procedure should have been in
the low millivolt range. If it was not, the problem may be in the
wattmeter portion of the KAT1. Check T1 very closely.
Success!
Thanks to Bruce N1RX for his knowledge and prior troubleshooting to resolve
this issue.
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/file/n7593336/sn2404fp_problem.jpg
What he described and photographed (above) are exactly the cause of this
problem. The RIT switch leg was making contact
Thank you all:
The K1 is sold pending funds.
73
Lu - W4LT
On Sep 22, 2014 5:16 PM, Lu Romero lrom...@ij.net wrote:
K1 #2539 for sale
I would like to sell my K1-4/2 for personal reasons. The
rig comes with the following options:
- Finger Dimple
- LCD Backlight kit
-
Hi all -
I wonder if this problem has ever been resolved? I have had the same issue
for several years with mine (serial number 278, previously owned by K8RA who
reported the same problem.)
K1 #2539 for sale
I would like to sell my K1-4/2 for personal reasons. The
rig comes with the following options:
- Finger Dimple
- LCD Backlight kit
- KFL1-4 Four band module with
o 40 meters
o 30 meters
o 20 meters
o 17
The K1 I offered for sale has been sold.
John K7JLT
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K1 For Sale Serial Number 206
Original Non-Smoking Owner
Equipped With-
- K1-4 4 Band Module with 15, 20,30 40 Meters (Trimmer Mod Installed)
- KAT1 Antenna Tuner
- KNB1 Noise Blanker
- Back Lighted LED Modification
- Homemade Tilt Stand
- Spare 2 Band Module with 40 20 Meter (80 meter parts
Dear Fellows,
I just finished construction of my K1. The receiver stage worked perfectly
until I finished the transmitter stage. I still get audio hiss and volume
but no signal on any band, AGC on or off, attenuator on or off.
All the voltages and resistances check out except the anode of D9,
Les,
You did not mention your test gear nor any information about your setup,
so I have to make some guesses and ask some groundwork questions.
Are you injecting RF from a signal generator to the BNC jack? If so, is
that signal large enough to register on what you are using to determine
Les wrote:
All the voltages and resistances check out except the anode of D9,
according to the manual, is supposed to be 100k. I'm sure this is an
error, however, since the DC path to ground from that point goes through
three resistors and a choke totalling only about a couple K, which is what
Thanks again, Don.
I've been using Elecraft's signal injector; you may know it puts out 50
micro volts on the high setting.
I'll try your suggestions but I think I did part of them already.
BTW, I'm using my Android phone so it's tough to write a lot of detail.
Les
On Aug 22, 2014 11:05 AM, Don
Hi,
Yes, Tom had scans of all the legacy gear boards, both top and bottom.
They were on the preserved website at http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/,
but right now, it looks like the link refers back to the master page. I
will try to contact their webmaster to see if that can be fixed.
In the
Les,
50 uV is not a large enough signal to see on a 'scope or RF probe. You
really need 1.4 volts (or whatever is specified in the procedure) of RF
input.
I suggest you build the simple oscillator shown in the Signal Tracing
appendix of the manual. It has good output for that purpose. The
Helpful once again. I also use a Heatkit signal gen., I didn't mention.
It punches up well on my scope. I'll try it again.
The scans are what's already on the board, however. These have been useful
but limited. Maybe there is something out on the Net that identifies the
solder points/pads too.
You mean this link for N0SS signal tracing on the K1?
http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/k1_signal_tracing.pdf
Mid-Missouri radio club continues to maintain most of Tom’s papers.
72,
gene
WG7GW
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Dear Fellows,
I Bought a K1 kit at a ham fest several years ago (SN 02197) and recently
finished the receiver section. Although audio is strong, as evidenced by
the hiss, I have nearly no signal on all 4 bands.
I can pump strong rf into it and hear a good side tone/bfo but not
strongly. Once, I
Les,
Yes, the NE612 should show plenty of gain. When it does not, the usual
reason is little or no oscillator signal to pin 6.
The Pre-mixer Bandpass filter must be aligned before you will get much
of a signal at U1 pin 6.
Since you have a 'scope (hopefully with a 10X probe), I will give
Hi Don,
Extremely helpful and encouraging; thanks. Actually, I was able to get
the trimmers set pretty well, i think, using a strong signal source. But I
will make the measurements you recommended.
Right now, I suspect either low VFO output or something is pulling down the
gain of U1.
Les
On
Les,
If you can get at least 200 mV peak to peak out of the Pre-Mixer
bandpass, the VFO level is OK.
The VFO and band module xtal oscillator are mixed in U7 and the output
of that mixer (after the bandpass filter) is applied to U1 pin 6.
If you find you need to check for loading of the U1
Hi Don,
Success!!!
I mostly followed your advice--I say mostly because I got diverted when I
found a clue. I would still be searching without your insights and
expertise, however.
I was getting about 150 mv out of pin 4 of u7. I traced it to pins 1and 2
of J6, which was still hot on the scope
Still looking for the stand Elecraft discontinued for the K1.
If you have one you don't want or use, let me know.
Contact me off line @ ekac...@yahoo.com
ThanksEd n7edk
Sent from my iPhone
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Good Morning,
Looking for the stand that Elecraft use to sell for the K1.
If any of you folks have one you don't use/don't want anymore, I'd like to buy
it from you !
Thanks, contact me off-line at ekac...@yahoo.com.
72/73 de Ed
N7EDK
Hi,
what would you think of a six-band module ?
Would it be interresting for the elecraft K1 users ?
I am think about build one. With afined design which
is easier to align with different trim capacitors !
Your opinion ???
73
Herbert
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft
of a six-band module ?
Would it be interresting for the elecraft K1 users ?
I am think about build one. With afined design which
is easier to align with different trim capacitors !
Your opinion ???
73
Herbert
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Oh well, all good things eventually end. Kit building in the conventional
sense is probably a declining interest anyway. Having built both thru-hole
and SMT radios (ATS-3B), probably enjoy building about as much as operating.
Am thankful to have built a K1-4 (40/30/20/15) several years ago,
Curt,
All you say rings true. And this is an especially
important point:
/Changing band modules is a special pain for me
because installed the onboard tuner (which is
rarely used) into my K//1/
The band module resides under the ATU board making
such changes something not done without
Changing band modules is a special pain for me
because installed the onboard tuner (which is
rarely used) into my K//1/
The band module resides under the ATU board making
such changes something not done without some
strong motive.
Tom/N0SS described 14 years ago a simple technique that
I am aware of the rubber band trick, but I find no difficulty at all
in plugging the KAT1 even with loose standoffs.
First place the standoffs so they are close to the holes in the board.
Next (and most important) put the long screws through the KAT1 board -
hold them down with your fingers or
I use the technique with the rubber band and change filter board in 5 minutes
from I start to unscrew the first screw of the top cover.
73 de Hal/la4xx
K1 2929
On 14-07-23 19:12, Mike Morrow k...@earthlink.net wrote:
Changing band modules is a special pain for me
because installed the
Wow -- I kind of touched a nerve with the big boy reference! I recall this
term was used by Dave Benson in some of his SWL kit documentation. It
merely referred the reader to a stripped-down section of the instructions if
one wanted to bypass the lengthy, step-by-step narrative... My point is
while this string is open
I have used a small Iron and tweezers to position chip caps/resistors
tack one end and then do the other end,,, I use some liquid rosin
the multi lead devices make sure leads are centered on the board then
tack
one pin,,, solder the rest and use solder wick to clean up
I don't think it's a matter of technique, Bob. I
have all the right equipment (the special
tweezers, solder paste - in the fridge, a hot
plate, a heat gun). And I will do small, simple
boards -- which even a 4-band K1 would not be.
My problem is knowing that an ill timed sneeze can
cause a
Am 21.07.2014 14:40, schrieb N4OI - Ken:
Wow -- I kind of touched a nerve with the big boy reference! I recall this
term was used by Dave Benson in some of his SWL kit documentation. It
merely referred the reader to a stripped-down section of the instructions if
one wanted to bypass the
Simple SMD kits are fine because the success rate can be high and the
investment risk on the part of both the customer and the manufacturer is low.
We may offer such kits in the future, though we don't have any present plans
for these.
The percentage of builders who could complete a complex
Hi all,
as I started that idea with the SMT components, I will try to moderate a
little bit.
I am over sixty and so I know the problems with needs of special glasses
to handle the
SMT components down at 603 or 402 ( 1 x 0.5mm).
So my idea is, not designing without SMT, but for those who like
Hi Wayne, hi K1 friends,
I followed the discussion about the 4 band module and the problems.
I can imagine to design a replacement board with four or even more
bands in a way, that the problems with the alignment and the components
will be solved. I do not know, if the dialogue to the PIC was
Hi Wayne, hi K1 friends,
I followed the discussion about the 4 band module and the problems.
I can imagine to design a replacement board with four or even more
bands in a way, that the problems with the alignment and the components
will be solved. I do not know, if the dialogue to the PIC was
I was reminded how capable the K1 is a couple weeks ago at a beach house at
Seabrook Island, SC... I broke away from family activities for just a
couple hours one night and made solid K1 DX QSOs with Ukraine, Sweden, Italy
and others using just a lightweight 20 meter dipole tied to the corner of
I will second that.
I built two Weber MTRs and in many ways it was easier than through-hole, except
for the size. I used a soldering iron.
“No soldering required” kits are no fun to me. I would never say that I built
my KX3 for instance, only assembled it.
Gil.
--
PGP Key:
Not all serious hams would agree with you. In my
first SMT effort I was very careful but lost one
part. Looked all over for it. Two days later I
found it in my shoe.
I have paste, hot air gun, hot plate -- all the
goodies -- but I try to avoid using them, a matter
of mental stress -- and,
And, not all hams are able to have a workbench or shack to house the
needed gear. Sometimes, things like that intervene. While it would
be nice to be able to build, not everyone can, even if they have the
desire and experience. Doesn't mean they aren't serious about ham
radio.
73 de
LOL, yes, size is definitely an issue. I use glasses, a magnifying lens and
tweezers. You do not have to cut leads that end up everywhere though. It is
precise work, no doubt, especially on the ICs. I know in ten or fifteen years I
may not be able to see those parts anymore. I like SMT though,
And here's a third.
I built one of Weber's ATS-3B kits and use it on occasion, such as during
Field Day 2011.
http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/HamRadio/FieldDay2011/FieldDay2011.htm
The demand and popularity of his kits is evident as the last run of MTRs
sold out literally hours after it
... perhaps it is time for Elecraft to start offering some big boy kits
that make full use of SMTs and other modern components.
Some would likely take exception to that strong implication that one is
not a big boy (whatever that means) if one rejects significant SMT hand
application. I've
Just imagine a KX3 kitted at the parts level. I
wonder if the price would be less than the current
offering?
Phil W7OX
On 7/20/14, 9:22 AM, Dave KW4M wrote:
And here's a third.
I built one of Weber's ATS-3B kits and use it on occasion, such as during
Field Day 2011.
Phil,
I suspect the cost would be significantly greater than for the assembled
board version that we have now.
To produce a kit, the parts would have to be pulled and counted,
capacitors hand marked for values and packaged in some reasonable manner
- that is a lot of labor cost. Much greater
On assembling versus building...
I think my hobby of woodworking has almost ripped away my soldering iron from
my hot little hands. I still have a solder-kit sitting on my desk ready to be
put together (the W1 meter) and it just sits there. All my spare time this
summer is building white oak
That was my thinking, too, Don.
Phil W7OX
On 7/20/14, 10:16 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Phil,
I suspect the cost would be significantly
greater than for the assembled board version
that we have now.
To produce a kit, the parts would have to be
pulled and counted, capacitors hand marked for
I purchased and built a K1 Transceiver with a two-band module for 40 and 20
meters at the end of 2012. I immediately fell in love with Elecraft's
products, and soon after ordered a KX3. I don't do much portable operation, so
the K1 has sat idle for about a year and a half. (The KX3 has
I have to agree with Mike, especially with the assertion about SMT
components being intended for robotic assembly.
Imagine all of the troubleshooting calls and e-mails that Elecraft would
get if Joe Ham had to populate circuit boards with these miniature
components. Too much room for error.
While I understand this mindset; I for one, am grateful that there are
SMT-based kits available. I enjoy building both thru-hole and SMT based
projects. In many cases, thru hole equivalents are not available for some
components. I have built many all-SMT projects, notably those offered by
KD1JV,ad
Support your local maker space, they will likely have the gear and knowledge
to do SMT… and probably a bunch of young guys that have never seen HAM before
or know the potential.
On Jul 20, 2014, at 3:04 PM, Jim Lowman jmlow...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
I have to agree with Mike, especially with
More power to you and others who have the patience, equipment and
eyesight/hand coordination to work with SMT devices, Bruce.
I think what many of us are saying, is that type of construction is not
for everyone.
I have a nice Weller soldering station and a variety of tips for it, as
well as
My first experience with SMT was building a softrock multiband
receiver kit. It is a hybrid through hole/SMT kit, with few different
types of SMT devices. I really enjoyed building it, and learned a lot
from it, and would recommend it to anyone wanting to dip their toe in
the water, so to speak.
I build all my SMT projects with my 30+ year old Weller WTCPT iron, and an
Optivisor. Have been for years now.
Bruce/N1RX
Jim/ AD6CW wrote:More power to you and others who have the patience,
equipment and
eyesight/hand coordination to work with SMT devices, Bruce.
I think what many of us are
Oh yes, that! I didn't think of it as SMT because
it has four leads. Took me a while to figure out
how to orient it, though. I sneezed and almost
lost that critter.
And I have two spares -- so mine is likely to last
forever.
Phil W7OX
On 7/20/14, 5:30 PM, Matt Maguire wrote:
The only science I can think of has to do with propagation. It seems to
me that 20m/40m would give the best overall opportunity for use hour by
hour over the course of a full sunspot cycle. Everything else pretty
much just boils down to personal preference or available space for antennas.
I am sad about the recent turn of events but not surprised. I bought the K1-2
band right after it was available with an extra 2 band board. When the 4 band
board was introduced, I jumped on that purchase. I will probably buy a few of
the 2 band boards before they are gone. I don't want any
All this talk about the K1 backlight led me to look back at the K1 order
page. There is no option for a 4-band version, nor for the KFL1-4 4-band
filter module itself. Is this an oversight, or has the 4-band board been
discontinued? If so, when and why? Also if so, then the K1 description page
Yes, Bruce, it looks like this:
/T//he K1...A compact, high-performance CW
rig that _you_ can build./
//
/HF operation is more fun than ever these
days--five watts is all you need to work worldwide
DX. That's why we've packed up to four bands into
our affordable, easy-to-build
I emailed Elecraft about it and they said the 4-band module is unlikely to come
back.
http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,824.0.html
Gil.
--
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
On Jul 17, 2014, at 11:47 AM, Phil Wheeler w...@socal.rr.com wrote:
needs an edit -- unless lack of a 4-band
This is sad news indeed. I have built a few K1s, and repaired a few for
others. The 4 band board made for a very capable rig, without the swapping
that the 2 band version requires. A redesign/reintroduction would be nice,
but I imagine it's primarily a business decision, rather than strictly an
Bummer -- and Lisa's exact words from that link
were more definite and final:
/The 4-band board was discontinued due to a part
availability issue that was crucial to the
functionality of the KF1-4. So no, it will not be
coming back sorry to say./
The 4-band K1 is a really nice, small QRP
And, here I was planning to get a 4-band K1 this fall. Yes, real Bummer.
So, I figure that I could do one of the following:
(1)Buy THREE 2-band K1 radios (saves on interchanging other bands).
(2)Buy the Two band option board and get along with 4 bands.
(3)Stick with
Bad news...for those who don't have one.
The K1-4 was my introduction to both Elecraft and purpose-built QRP
rigs. It's easily in the top 3 favorite radios I have owned in half a
century. I think Gil called it a cute mini K2 in the link below, and
that's a pretty good description. It's big
The part that has become unavailable is the blue trimmer capacitors that
are used for tuning the bandpass filters. That does *not* spell demise
of the K1, but only the 4 band board.
Yes, sorry that it is gone, but the K1 with a 2 band board and an extra
2 band board will give you 4 band
Hi Bruce,
The 4-band module requires extremely low-temperature-coefficient trimmer
capacitors because of its narrow-band pre-mix and RF band-pass filters. The
last source for these exotic trimmers dried up recently. A redesign using
higher-TC trimmers might be possible, but the filters would
What is the crucial part that caused this? Inquiring minds wanna know.
WT5Y
Sent from my Cricket smartphone
Original message
From: EricJ eric_c...@hotmail.com
Date: 07/17/2014 13:32 (GMT-06:00)
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1-4 4 band version gone
The K1 can remember the frequency offset settings for 6 bands, so having
3 2-band boards is quite practical. You get to choose which 2 bands go
together on one board for most of your operating pleasure.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 7/17/2014 2:14 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:
And, here I was planning to get a
Thanks for taking the time to reply with the details, Wayne. It's a shame. I
(and many others) feel the K1 has some advantages over the KX1, such as the
analog VFO, higher output power, and 4-pole filtering. It's internal antenna
matching unit also offers more tuning range than the KX1. I have
Wayne wrote:
The 4-band module requires extremely low-temperature-coefficient
trimmer capacitors because of its narrow-band pre-mix and RF band-pass
filters. The last source for these exotic trimmers dried up recently.
If all the other parts of the KFL1-4 were still stocked, perhaps those
Here's another thought that perhaps one of us could put together:
give up the internal battery space for a considerably larger filter board
that could be used to allow room for additional 2 band style filters
that don't share components (and, thus, don't need high-tolerance parts).
No
Don wrote:
The K1 can remember the frequency offset settings for 6 bands...
The K1 remembers the frequency display calibration settings (OFS)
for all *nine* HF bands between 160m and 10m (60m is excluded),
and automatically uses the one previously stored for a particular
band when that band gets
Jessie wrote:
I'll have to give mine a close look for mechanical feasibility when I
get home.
It is not feasible.
Mike / KK5F
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Howdy Fellow Elecrafters:
OK...it's so obvious even I figured it out.
Notice that we have a KX1 and a KX3??
What happened to the KX2?? Well, read on.
I predict the next new transceiver from Elecraft will render obsolete the K1-4
and KX1 obsolete...it will be called, obviously, the KX2.
It
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