Hmm, I'd think that moving the camera on a tripod would be easier than
moving the painting, when it comes to keeping the camera the same
distance from the painting.
Once you position the camera, you might drop a plumb line from bottom
center of tripod, let it hang straight, mark the distance o
Hello David,
On Thu, 05 Nov 2015 16:40:07 +1100, David W. Jones
wrote:
Hmm, I'd think that moving the camera on a tripod would be easier than
moving the painting, when it comes to keeping the camera the same
distance from the painting.
I did talk a bit more about my thoughts on how t
5.11.2015, 1:56, Terry Duell kirjoitti:
> I'll shoot from a weighted tripod, using pixel shift mode, and at this
> stage thinking about using a 150-450 lens at about 300mm.
I'd suggest a macro lens for best edge to edge sharpness, for example
Pentax 100mm F2.8.
> The intention is to set the paint
Hello Markku,
On Thu, 05 Nov 2015 20:41:57 +1100, Markku Kolkka
wrote:
5.11.2015, 1:56, Terry Duell kirjoitti:
I'll shoot from a weighted tripod, using pixel shift mode, and at this
stage thinking about using a 150-450 lens at about 300mm.
I'd suggest a macro lens for best edge to edge s
5.11.2015, 23:43, Terry Duell kirjoitti:
> Hello Markku,
>> I'd suggest a macro lens for best edge to edge sharpness, for example
>> Pentax 100mm F2.8.
>>
>
> OK, thanks. I'll see if I can find some lens tests to compare.
http://slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/310/cat/45
http://www.pe
Hello Markku,
On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 10:20:31 +1100, Markku Kolkka
wrote:
5.11.2015, 23:43, Terry Duell kirjoitti:
Hello Markku,
I'd suggest a macro lens for best edge to edge sharpness, for example
Pentax 100mm F2.8.
OK, thanks. I'll see if I can find some lens tests to compare.
http:/
Hallo All,
Don't know if this could assist, but thought I would put it out there.
Some many years ago, I was also attempting to photograph and stitch
a difficult subject. Unfortunately I can't remember the detail, but
what I do remember is that the subject was such that it was difficult
to place c
Hello Marius,
On Fri, 06 Nov 2015 17:08:18 +1100, Marius Loots
wrote:
Hallo All,
Don't know if this could assist, but thought I would put it out there.
Some many years ago, I was also attempting to photograph and stitch
a difficult subject. Unfortunately I can't remember the detail, but
wh
6.11.2015, 1:52, Terry Duell kirjoitti:
>
>>> OK, thanks. I'll see if I can find some lens tests to compare.
>
> ...to compare with the performance of my 150-450.
Ephotozine has tested both lenses, but on different bodies (K-5 IIs vs.
K-3) so the measurements aren't necessarily directly comparabl
Hello Bill,
On Sat, 07 Nov 2015 02:27:33 +1100, Bill Brody wrote:
I suggest a prime lens rather than any kind of zoom. They are much
sharper. Many lens are sharpest at f8. Check the literature for your
lens.
My choice of the Pentax 150-450 is because it's what I have.
The reports for this
Pardon my dumbness; it's seems (from the thread) you're talking about
shooting a mosaic style set; in this context what is a "2x2 pattern"
(since I suspect the full matrix will be more 8x13 images or whatever).
Second - how big is the physical painting?
BugBear
On 4 November 2015 at 23:56, Te
Hello Paul,
On Sun, 08 Nov 2015 00:05:09 +1100, Paul Womack
wrote:
Pardon my dumbness; it's seems (from the thread) you're talking about
shooting a mosaic style set; in this context what is a "2x2 pattern"
(since I suspect the full matrix will be more 8x13 images or whatever).
Yes, it w
Terry, Your camera with a 300mm lens will be quite a long way from the
canvas. If you have a spherical panorama head, I would use that and stitch
as a conventional panorama rather than use mosaic mode.
John
On Saturday, November 7, 2015 at 10:38:21 PM UTC, Tduell wrote:
>
> Hello Paul,
>
> On
That's why I asked about the shooting pattern and physical size.
I concur with using a pano head and "normal" stitching.
BugBear
On 8 November 2015 at 13:06, panostar wrote:
> Terry, Your camera with a 300mm lens will be quite a long way from the
> canvas. If you have a spherical panorama he
Hello John,
On Mon, 09 Nov 2015 00:06:31 +1100, panostar
wrote:
Terry, Your camera with a 300mm lens will be quite a long way from the
canvas. If you have a spherical panorama head, I would use that and
stitch as a conventional panorama rather than use mosaic mode.
I think the camera
Moving the painting would, unless your lighting is perfectly uniform,
involve moving the painting w.r.t. the lights, which might make a perfect
stitch impossible.
I would (quite strongly) recommend a pano head, home made if need be. Given
the lack of major 3d
features on a painting it needn't be p
Hello Paul,
On Mon, 09 Nov 2015 08:29:39 +1100, Paul Womack
wrote:
Moving the painting would, unless your lighting is perfectly uniform,
involve moving the painting w.r.t. the lights, which might make a perfect
stitch impossible.
Yes that is an issue, and we have more or less decided that
al piano stitch.
Sent from my Samsung device
Original message
From: Terry Duell
Date: 2015-11-08 3:20 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: hugin-ptx@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [hugin-ptx] Shooting and stitching to make Giclee prints
Hello John,
On Mon, 09 Nov 2015 00:06:31 +1100, pa
Hello dg,
Sorry, I forget if you are a David,
On Mon, 09 Nov 2015 09:26:45 +1100, dgjohnston
wrote:
Terry, at 6.5m and with a relatively flat painting I can't see there
being anything to produce parallax errors. Or am I showing my naivety
here? Feel free to let me know if I'm out to lu
[hugin-ptx] Shooting and stitching to make Giclee prints
Hello dg,
Sorry, I forget if you are a David,
On Mon, 09 Nov 2015 09:26:45 +1100, dgjohnston
wrote:
>
> Terry, at 6.5m and with a relatively flat painting I can't see there
> being anything to produce parallax errors. O
Hello Donald,
On Mon, 09 Nov 2015 11:02:07 +1100, dgjohnston
wrote:
I'm a Donald and I don't play the piano either. As they say "Spell check
is my new wrost enema!"
Ha ha. The dreaded spill chucker, I should have known.
Cheers,
--
Regards,
Terry Duell
--
A list of frequently asked
A pano head merely reduces parallax errors (ideally, but never, to zero).
As I have discovered, mosaicing generates very large parallax errors.
I suggest, during your trials, using a normal 3 way tripod head
to perform the motions of a pano head.
This may not be ideal, but it may be better than
On 8 November 2015 at 22:50, Terry Duell wrote:
> Now I know that it should be possible to correct that in Hugin, and
> normally that works OK but I have had projects where that has proved to be
> a bit of a pain...so all the emphasis on mosaic and how to ensure camera
> square to subject etc.
>
On Monday, November 9, 2015 at 9:05:31 AM UTC, bugbear wrote:
>
>
> (and a pano head that is far from perfect, but far better
> than a normal 3 way head could be knocked up in a shed!)
>
All that is required in this case is a simple plate or bar adapter to shift
the camera back (or possibly forwa
Hello Paul,
On Mon, 09 Nov 2015 20:08:18 +1100, Paul Womack
wrote:
On 8 November 2015 at 22:50, Terry Duell wrote:
Now I know that it should be possible to correct that in Hugin, and
normally that works OK but I have had projects where that has proved to
be
a bit of a pain...so all th
panostar wrote:
All that is required in this case is a simple plate or bar adapter to shift the
camera back (or possibly forwards) to align the entrance pupil of the lens with
the axis of rotation. That would virtually eliminate horizontal parallax. Any
minor shift of the entrance pupil in
On Tue, 10 Nov 2015 10:03:46 +1100, wrote:
Hello John,
[snip]
You're probably right, if you did it.
For me it would take a day, or so, to sort out where the entrance pupil
is, then another day, or so, to make the gadget, then another day, or
so, to test it and...
Why is that blokes who
On Tuesday, November 10, 2015 at 9:15:48 PM UTC, Tduell wrote:
>
> On Tue, 10 Nov 2015 10:03:46 +1100, wrote:
>
> > Hello John,
>
> [snip]
>
> > You're probably right, if you did it.
> > For me it would take a day, or so, to sort out where the entrance pupil
>
> > is, then another day, or
Hello John,
On Wed, 11 Nov 2015 10:17:27 +1100, panostar
wrote:
Terry,I haven't seen where the snipped text came from so I didn't receive
it any way, and I'm certainly not offended.
Good.
I appreciate that many people
have difficulty in finding the no parallax point and spend days ov
11.11.2015, 4:09, Terry Duell kirjoitti:
> I just tried that with my 150-450 lens and the image of the diaphragm is
> in quite different positions at 150mm FL, depending on which end of the
> lens I'm viewing.
The entrance pupil is the image of the aperture viewed from the _front_
of the lens. htt
On Wednesday, November 11, 2015 at 2:09:11 AM UTC, Tduell wrote:
>
>
> > I appreciate that many people
> > have difficulty in finding the no parallax point and spend days over it.
> > Yet I do find this surprising, given that all you have to do is to look
> > into the lens with the aperture sto
Hello John,
On Wed, 11 Nov 2015 19:03:21 +1100, panostar
wrote:
Terry, Yes, you are on the right track. If you look into the front of
the lens you see the entrance pupil. If you look into the rear of the
lens you see the exit pupil. It's the entrance pupil that is located at
the
Terry Duell wrote:
I just tried that with my 150-450 lens and the image of the diaphragm is in
quite different positions at 150mm FL, depending on which end of the lens I'm
viewing. My guess is a difference of about 75mm.
The locations come much closer together and move towards the camera as
On Wednesday, November 11, 2015 at 9:07:16 AM UTC, bugbear wrote:
>
>
> I put a panel pin into a piece of scrap, leaving just the head sticking
> out,
> and put two AA batteries roughly in line, a couple of feet from
> the camera, and 6 inches different in distance.
>
> In other words, a subjec
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