Well I got the balancer/pulley pulled off the parts engine and installed
on the 85 300D, so its now ready to go again. I ended up using a
steering wheel puller for GM cars on it.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83
Loren Faeth wrote:
What they said, and if you can't find an easier way to get the ATF in the
trans and the lube in the diff, I have used a pump oil can. It takes a
while, but it will put the stuff into hard to get to places, and doesn't
not cost a fortune or tie up a lot of space.
Last
Kaleb typed:
I am on crank
Good thing this wasn't on Banned...
Bob Rentfro
I am asking the group for some collective wisdom about how to get more
service life out of these switches. I live in Arizona, where you typically
have the windows rolled up the majority of the year. Yet, every 16 months,
for the past 15 years, on each of my three 300D's, I have had to buy a
I always disassemble them and spray liberally with contact cleaner. Seems
to hold up for 30,000 miles or so like that.
On 5/11/06, Marshall Field [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I am asking the group for some collective wisdom about how to get more
service life out of these switches. I live in
If you're going to take them apart, do it inside a ziplock bag so, if the
parts and pieces jetteson from the housing, they are contained. Be careful
taking the switch out/prying up the fakeola chrome trim...it breaks easily
after having been in our cars in AZ.
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 153K
There are also small pumps intended for filling the lower units of outboard
motors with gear oil available for very
little money. They pump a bit faster than an oil can and with any luck the
fitting on the pump will fit the cap on
the oil bottle. I have used that sort of thing with some success.
Usually what happens is that the rocker action becomes sticky, then the
switch literally flies apart into your hand on one of the next cycles.
Disassemble and clean, then reassemble with a dot of grease on the
BB's. But I've never had a switch pop apart by itself, the usual
problem around
What's the access port on top of the diff? 14mm hex, 5mm allen, 10mm
socket, what?
For the vent? Vise-grips, in my case! It's a round barrel doodad
that vaguely resembles the old-style fuel primer pump. It may have
some flats on it, I forget, and it has a crimped-on cap with ears
on it that
Beyond the wiring harness and the A/C, the blower regulator is known
for melting if it's not
properly installed with the right amount of thermal paste and fins,
and the close assist
pump (pulls doors closed) usually fails too and needs to replace, or
perhaps fixed (iffy).
Budget oh say
What was the last year the diesel S-class DIDN'T have the 3.5L diesel
engine? That will be my new target car. IIRC, the 126 was cursed with the
3.5L engine for a short time near the end of its life cycle.
On the other hand, if the 126 ever came with the 3.5L engine, maybe I should
look for one
The last S class in the US without the 3.5 would be the 87 300SDL.
Sunil Hari wrote:
What was the last year the diesel S-class DIDN'T have the 3.5L diesel
engine? That will be my new target car. IIRC, the 126 was cursed with the
3.5L engine for a short time near the end of its life cycle.
The '87 300SDL W126 was the last S class diesel before the 350SDL came into
being in 1989-1991. 1992 was the first year of the W140 actually badged as
the 300SD. I'm not sure when they became S350D's.
Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1981 300CD 204K miles, Giesela
94
kevin kraly wrote:
The '87 300SDL W126 was the last S class diesel before the 350SDL came into
being in 1989-1991. 1992 was the first year of the W140 actually badged as
the 300SD. I'm not sure when they became S350D's.
Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1981 300CD 204K miles, Giesela
Jim Cathey wrote:
Marshall - overflow hole??? There's one of those? And how do you
check if
it's clogged? How do you unclog it?
There is a vent on the top of the differential, and it can get clogged.
They just unscrew, you can then clean them out. Make sure you clean off
the top of the
plain old fashioned oil can with a thumb pump, as opposed to the kind you
have to turn upside down to get the oil to run out. About $3 at the
hardware store.
At 05:42 PM 5/11/2006, you wrote:
What's the access port on top of the diff? 14mm hex, 5mm allen, 10mm
socket, what?
And what's this
SO make one - you know, like you made the spreader when you changed
the B2 in the car --
Piece of angle iron with a hole in the middle. bolt through the hole,
nut on the side facing the engine. Clamp the angle iron to the
balancer. hold the nut with a wrench, turn the bolt with another
wrench -
I felt like a real champion when I discovered how easy it was to mount
the rubber strip on the rear bumper of my son's 1985 300D. Just whack
it with a mallet the length of the rubber and the strip pops into
place on the steel flange of the bumper.
On my late111 coupe, however, I had no such
What was hand fitted on the 126? I've heard over the years that
several different models were each the last model with hands laid on
them during assembly - don't know what to believe.
On 5/11/06, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The 126 is way more car than the 140 could ever hope to be.
Hmm. Shows how much I know. I'll have to check that list out.
Brian
On 5/11/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
We do on the biodiesel list.
Zoltan Finks wrote:
Do you guys talk about WVO too?
Brian
On 5/10/06, Bruce Lulfs [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
WDBAB33A4EA040053
Bruce
Soapy water for lube. Works like a charm, can almost slide it on by hand.
On Thu, 11 May 2006 22:21:01 -0500, andrew strasfogel
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I felt like a real champion when I discovered how easy it was to mount
the rubber strip on the rear bumper of my son's 1985 300D. Just
Kaleb: Did you get my order with the question about payment? I'm
re-sending it to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D
-
- Original Message -
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL
My 82 300SD (Garret turbo) suddenly lost turbo boost last weekend. The banjo
fitting id not plugged and the circuit to the ALDA is not leaking.
Measuring the manifold pressure, I get almost no boost until 3-4,000 rpm and
then I get about 6 psi max. I don't see any obvious leaks in the intake or
Forgive me, Marshall Field, as I know this doesn't give you any information
on the topic you asked about, but: Your question regarding window switches
reminded me of an episode on that show Real Housewives of Orange County.
One of the families' daughter gets in her couple-of-year-old Mercedes
Zoltan Finks wrote:
So, when using the primer pump, you just pump 'til it begins to leak out
onto your hands? If not, how do you know when the job is done?
No, if it leaks you need to replace the pump. It's been a little while,
but if I remember right I heard air hissing at the bleeder
In a message dated 5/11/2006 9:55:52 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
My 82 300SD (Garret turbo) suddenly lost turbo boost last weekend. The banjo
fitting id not plugged and the circuit to the ALDA is not leaking.
Measuring the manifold pressure, I get almost no
Have any of yous had to deal with a windshield squirter that won't squirt?
The driver side one squirts (but not very potently), but the passenger side
one does not squirt.
Wondering if I need to unplug the hose from the offending squirter and see
if it will flow at that point?
What else? How do
Sounds like you got a blockage. The squirters both work off the same motor.
Or perhaps you have a cracked/broken hose.
Hendrik
who hates cleaning squirters
- Original Message -
From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, May 12,
Brian,
I'm with you 100%. I cannot stand to 'follow the crowd', I'd much
rather reach my own conclusion/bias. I don't know if this is a human
condition or not, I prefer to think of it as great American Rugged
Individualism. Making biodiesel appeals
to me for the same reason; nothing to do
I've heard this said about 111's, 107's, 123 coupes, etc. etc.
Some even brag about hand assembled AMG engines (which is true).
Anyone know the definitive official authorized 'legal in all 50 states'
version?
Very respectfully,
/s/
Meade Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 287k miles
'85 190D 2.2 5
Zoltan,
No, you're not being naïve. Good judgement comes from exerience, experience
comes from bad judgement. I think that this procedure is one that all
responsible MB diesel operators should know how to do, so that when a clogged
filter episode occurs, they are not stranded helplessly on
Brian,
Most likely there are deposits in the hoses and/or squirters, and
occasionally the one-way valve fails. Take apart the lines and blow
them out with low pressure air, and use a fine pin or wire to clean out
the squirters. A pin can also be used to aim them.
In the last issue of 'The
I found that on the 190D, removing the main vacuum line from the vac. pump was
required to get clearance to the main filter. On install, I positioned new
under its mount, then used a hose to fill it with diesel before I tightened it
up.
Very respectfully,
/s/
Meade Dillon
Charleston SC
'87
Brian,
Mighty-Vac is too small for engine oil evacuation. There is a device
brand name Top Sider that is very nice for about $40 or so. Cheaper
routes:
1) If you have a vacuum cleaner, make a vacuum chamber (to catch the
oil) from a 5 gallon bucket or some such, and get some really stiff
Excellent, thanks Marshall. Changing fluid/filter on my 'new' 124.193
is going to be one of the first jobs I do next weekend. I also have a
new thermostat (preventative measure install) and coolant - should be
fun.
Very respectfully,
/s/
Meade Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD 287k miles
'85 190D
On May 10, 2006, at 7:48 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Is there anyway I can check a radiator while its out of
the car to see if its leaking fluid into the tranny cooler portion
of it?
Plug one hole and put vacuum or pressure to the other hole. Mity-Vac
anyone?
Johnny B.
I Mac
On Thu, 11 May 2006 23:37:16 -0400, you wrote:
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W140
From: dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 23:37:16 -0400
Are there any common expensive maintenance items to look out for with an 87
300SDL?
Thanks
-Dave
Have any of yous had to deal with a windshield squirter that won't
squirt?
Many times.
The driver side one squirts (but not very potently), but the passenger
side
one does not squirt.
Crud build-up in the nozzles. Remove the lines, clean them out, and
back-flush the offending nozzle with
Brian - My car had the same type of problem. Turns out that the line from
the tank was crimped when the hood closed. You might not be as lucky, but
do check the tube routing .
BillR
1981 300SD EM 275k
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of
On Fri, 12 May 2006 05:50:11 -0700, you wrote:
Problem can be corrected if you use Mobile1 windshield washer fluid.
Happy Moose Day
--
Regards,
Peter T. Arnold
1987 300SDL 24KMI
1995 F-250 PowerChoke 194Kmi
1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable
First is determining whether the head is cracked.
I had to replace the belt tensioning assembly and vacuum pump.
Nothing else unusual for an MB of this age.
On 5/11/06, dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Are there any common expensive maintenance items to look out for with an 87
300SDL?
--
Jim
I'll check the exhaust manifold nuts (#1), although I didn't notice any blow
by under the hood with motor running. Still need to do but I'll need to
pull the air cleaner, I think. I don't think it's the pressure switch
(although that could account for the jerky boost I noticed in the past)
I guess I didn't stop to think: Am I being naive by not being more
trepidacious about introducing air into the fuel system by changing the
filters?
It's no big deal.
I assumed I'd have to use the hand primer pump to get fuel up to
the IP, or injectors (you can see my lack of understanding
Nothing better than Fully Synthetic Water.
None of that crappy Class I Cracked stock water pretending to be synthetic!
On 5/12/06, Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Fri, 12 May 2006 05:50:11 -0700, you wrote:
Problem can be corrected if you use Mobile1 windshield washer fluid.
The squirters will work better after you fill the tires with Fina's pink air ---
On 5/12/06, Levi Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Nothing better than Fully Synthetic Water.
None of that crappy Class I Cracked stock water pretending to be synthetic!
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans
On the other hand, if the 126 ever came with the 3.5L engine, maybe I
should
look for one of those with a replacement engine
Yes, a new-engined 350SDL would be a nice car. IMHO not substantially
better than the 86/87 variety, but it _will_ be less aged overall.
There are some interior
Not taking into account the more electronic issues, the 140 is WAY more
car than the 126. I love my 126's but I sure miss my old 140. They are
really one hell of a nice car. Mine had the evaporator problem but that
was it.
Loren Faeth wrote:
The 126 is way more car than the 140 could ever
Yea, I just swapped it from another engine in the garage, but you need a
puller to get it off the engine. I used my steering wheel puller for GM
vehicles.
OK Don wrote:
SO make one - you know, like you made the spreader when you changed
the B2 in the car --
Piece of angle iron with a hole
yea, seems they say about every year was the last year for the hand
built ones.
OK Don wrote:
What was hand fitted on the 126? I've heard over the years that
several different models were each the last model with hands laid on
them during assembly - don't know what to believe.
--
Kaleb
cracked head
dave walton wrote:
Are there any common expensive maintenance items to look out for with an 87
300SDL?
Thanks
-Dave Walton
94S350, 99E300
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81
its at striplin.net btw
Zoltan Finks wrote:
Hmm. Shows how much I know. I'll have to check that list out.
Brian
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73
Get a bread twist tie and strip off the paper or plastic, curve about an
inch+half to about the radius of a quarter, and use this end to ream out
the squirter nozzle (the curve helps it slide in all the way). You can
use a push-pin to aim the nozzle -- these things appear to be little
balls
The best way to do it is to bend it at the middle so the channel opens
up wide and fit that onto the bumper, then do the hammer trick the rest
of the way.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
Soapy water for lube. Works like a charm, can almost slide it on by hand.
On Thu, 11 May 2006 22:21:01 -0500,
pull the air cleaner, I think. I don't think it's the pressure switch
(although that could account for the jerky boost I noticed in the past)
because the pressure was low right out of the manifold.
It's not so simple as that! The system is a positive feedback one, and
if there is no
I thought Heinekin was the preferred fluid for both windshield washers and
operators?
On 5/12/06, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Get a bread twist tie and strip off the paper or plastic, curve about an
inch+half to about the radius of a quarter, and use this end to ream out
the squirter
If you sent it I probably got it. I will be responding to parts
questions over the weekend.
archer wrote:
Kaleb: Did you get my order with the question about payment? I'm
re-sending it to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Gerry Archer
'83 300D and 240D
-
Rather than disconnecting the wire going to the overboost valve, you
will want to just bypass it for the time being to see if that is the
problem. If its plugged up(which most of them are) unplugging the wire
wont help.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 5/11/2006 9:55:52 P.M. US
good idea dude.
John Berryman wrote:
On May 10, 2006, at 7:48 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Is there anyway I can check a radiator while its out of
the car to see if its leaking fluid into the tranny cooler portion
of it?
Plug one hole and put vacuum or pressure to the other hole.
The local MB dealer offered a FREE check up so I made an
appointment. Everything was running ok but I just figured I would see what
he could find wrong, well he did
The rear fog light was out. They just
exchanged the bulb with the other side since doesnt need a double filament
on
My 82 300SD (Garret turbo) suddenly lost turbo boost last weekend. The banjo
fitting id not plugged and the circuit to the ALDA is not leaking.
Measuring the manifold pressure, I get almost no boost until 3-4,000 rpm and
then I get about 6 psi max. I don't see any obvious leaks in the intake or
On May 12, 2006, at 9:19 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
good idea dude.
A direct result of using one's head for more than a hat rack.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
I use an old 2-3 gallon helium tank. Removed the little cap they have on the
tanks, and opened it up with a punch to accept a brass barb. Threaded it in
and sealed it with JB Weld. Then I cut off the top of the valve mechanisim
because inside the stem is a 1/4 pipe thread that's not NPT, but
Well, that's Dutch so not sure how it would interact.
German beer is chemical free
--R
Levi Smith wrote:
I thought Heinekin was the preferred fluid for both windshield washers and
operators?
On 5/12/06, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Get a bread twist tie and strip off the paper
Ohh, well it sounded German to me, but I'm not culturally educated. Oh
well. Do the Dutch and Germans get along?
On 5/12/06, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Well, that's Dutch so not sure how it would interact.
German beer is chemical free
--R
Levi Smith wrote:
I thought Heinekin
Sorry about this duplicate post, but I accidentally sent it from the wrong
email account and then resent it from the account registered with this list.
Jim and Kaleb: Thanks for inputs. I've bypassed the switchover valve but I
need to get to a McParts store and get a long piece of tubing so I
On Fri, 12 May 2006 10:51:43 -0400, you wrote:
Ohh, well it sounded German to me, but I'm not culturally educated. Oh
well. Do the Dutch and Germans get along?
They have been known to disagree concerning Beer and Borders.
--
Regards,
Peter T. Arnold
1987 300SDL 24KMI
1995 F-250
Yeah, but what about the important stuff like windshield squirters?
Levi (:
On 5/12/06, Peter T. Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Fri, 12 May 2006 10:51:43 -0400, you wrote:
Ohh, well it sounded German to me, but I'm not culturally educated. Oh
well. Do the Dutch and Germans get along?
Most auto parts store will loan or rent you one, especially autozone.
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 9:07 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] how to get the
Yes, there was a time when the Dutch had large numbers of young German
male undocumented migrants coming across their unsecured border to do
work that the Dutch did not want to do, but I don't think getting a
taste of their beer was a major factor in this migration though I am
sure that it was
You know all this talk of squirters and beer has me thinking... Mine seem
to be aimed a bit high, though at speed the wind throws the stuff onto the
windshield. But perhaps they're meant to be aimed high, so that I can
simply open the sunroof, and then my beer squirters can just shoot it on
There's a great VW Passat commercial on TV that I saw on TW yesterday. As
the guy drives along, the driver of each different car they pass screams out
a different slogan, e.g. I EARN MORE MONEY THAN YOU!!, I AM INSECURE
ABOUT MY MASCULINITY!!, GET OUT OF MY WAY BECAUSE I AM MORE IMPORTANT THAN
The recent year Passat's are VERY nice cars. Nicer than the current low end
Mercedes IMHO.
-Dave Walton
94S350, 99E300
On 5/12/06, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
There's a great VW Passat commercial on TV that I saw on TW yesterday. As
the guy drives along, the driver of each
Not to hijack your thread, but does anyone have advice in regard to the earlier
version. My 76 115 300D does not
squirt the windshield when I step on the doodad on the floor. Is it likely a
blockage somewhere or is there a
checkvalve gone bad or some such?? I know I am being lazy to ask rather
I checked my local Wal Mart but just like the Moblil 1 oil, they were out of
the stuff I needed.
(actually my Wal-Mart has the oil - they just want an arm and a leg for it
these days)
Randy B
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Peter T.
My 76 115 300D does not squirt the windshield when I step on the
doodad on the floor.
The usual problem is that the frog splits and gives you a
nice foot bath. If that is not your problem, then it's just
a blockage somewhere in the lines and it's a straightforward
process to find and clear the
I will apologize in advance for being even more off topic than usual, but I
know of no other knowledge base broad enough to probably have an answer for
me. I have had my constant companion IPAQ 5455 drop out of my pocket a few
times and now the screen alignment is so far off it is not
When I recently removed the intake manifold off my '95 E300D (124 with a 606
engine) , I changed the glow plugs.
The front 3 plugs required hours of coaxing finessing and arm strength to
get them out. And the new ones went in with similar difficulty.
The new ones wrenched to specified torque
Sounds like it a total trash out. I will give you 50 bucks for it.
On 5/12/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On May 12, 2006, at 9:19 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
good idea dude.
A direct result of using one's head for more than a hat rack.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
Do you mean the screen is physically out of whack or electronically? If
it is just twisted in the case (not sure how that could be) then sounds
like you just need to open it up and realign it. If it is the screen
image then I am not sure how that could be fixed (unless you whack it
again) --
My daughter found this report, complete with witty commentary. It's
pretty good.
http://science.slashdot.org/science/06/05/12/0215234.shtml
/A New Zealand company has successfully turned sewage into modern-day
gold. New Zealand Herald is reporting that a Marlborough-based Aquaflow
Bionomic
Odd thing this. Physically it seems fine, and the screen is where it should
be, but it just will not align properly and always fails that part of the
self test. Some programs with options across the top cannot be accessed;
often you need to press outside of whatever spot you are supposed to
Ah, I think these touch screens have a touch sensitive layer on top of
the actual display, some kind of plastic with very thin wires in it or
something like that, or maybe some kind of sensors along the edge.
Maybe that part got moved around relative to the actual display.
--R
BillR wrote:
Thanks. Actually, it was my old primer pump that leaked. That must be what
had me thinking that when fuel leaks out, it's done priming. According to
the indy, I now have a good primer pump that came with the new (used)
engine. It is, as one would expect, the old white type with screw top.
Brian
I saw that commercial, but was distracted from watching it (and we always
mute the commercials in our house - unless we want to watch an interesting
one). But, it looked like a very interesting commercial. Preaching to my
choir. I know I'll have a chance to see it again.
Brian
On 5/12/06,
Sounds like you might be thinking the repair is moving back into my area of
experience. I will get brave tomorrow and crack the case.
Thanks -
BillR
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 1:35 PM
To:
Come to think of it, the commercial you mentioned sort of shines a light on
that annoying Dodge commercial in which the driver's dog is mooning out the
window. This is the first instance of overt promotion by a car company of
the type of attitudes people get behind the wheel. Well, not the first,
Kaleb,
Will that trick work on a W111 or W108/109 bumper strip?
On 5/12/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The best way to do it is to bend it at the middle so the channel opens
up wide and fit that onto the bumper, then do the hammer trick the rest
of the way.
Luther Gulseth
Did you try a soft reset!?
You'll lose any data not in ROM but at this point you have very little
choice, I am afraid.
Good luck,
Omar.
Date: Fri, 12 May 2006 13:31:15 -0400
From: BillR [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual - IPAQ 5455
Odd thing this. Physically it
BillR wrote:
Sounds like you might be thinking the repair is moving back into my area of
experience. I will get brave tomorrow and crack the case.
Bill,
There are no user serviceable parts inside your iPAQ, nor are there any field
replaceable units contained therein. Repair of an iPAQ is
Done several soft and a few hard resets [quite a pain]. No change in the
action.
BillR
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of kayoooh @ gmail
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 2:23 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT even further than usual
Pretty much what I feared. I was shocked some years ago when the standard
repair on my Commodore 64 was to junk the insides and reuse the case. Repair
work isn't what it used to be. I'll open it up as I do have nothing to
lose. But not today.
BillR
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL
Speaking of play: When I was under my 240D looking at the rear axles (which,
yes, have split boots on one side, and cracked on the other), I noticed that
I was able to take hold of the axle and move it back and forth and inch or
so. I'm talking about movement along the axle's length. This alarmed
IIRC, a very technically-advanced reaming tool - aka a piece of wood.
On 5/12/06, ned kleinhenz [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
When I recently removed the intake manifold off my '95 E300D (124 with a
606
engine) , I changed the glow plugs.
The front 3 plugs required hours of coaxing finessing and
Seems like I've read about the injector ports filling with carbon and
causing these kinds of problem... Is my memory correct? What is the
correct way to fix this problem?
That is what the glow plug reamer is for. Many people have made
do with handheld drill bits, etc. and compressed air.
--
Pretty much what I feared. I was shocked some years ago when the
standard
repair on my Commodore 64 was to junk the insides and reuse the case.
Repair
work isn't what it used to be. I'll open it up as I do have nothing to
lose. But not today.
That, of course, is pretty much the modern
I was able to take hold of the axle and move it back and forth and
inch or
so. I'm talking about movement along the axle's length.
Sliding along the axis between the differential and wheel is normal.
-- Jim
I'm going to look at a '91 300D that smokes. What things should I look for on
this car before making an offer? It has 235kmi, clean body, no rust or dents
(just parking lot dings) and the interior is clean and everything works.
Suggestions welcome. TIA all.
--
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
Jim Cathey wrote:
I was able to take hold of the axle and move it back and forth and
inch or
so. I'm talking about movement along the axle's length.
Sliding along the axis between the differential and wheel is normal.
In fact, it's necessary. As the suspension extends the axle has
Got your email. No paypal. Send me your address and I'll mail you money
order.
Gerry Archer
---
If you sent it I probably got it. I will be responding to parts
questions over the weekend.
archer wrote:
Kaleb: Did you get my order with the question about
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=18021872
--
Luther KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (231,xxx kmi)
'82 300CD (159,222 kmi)
'82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work
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