I guess if it's made it to almost 250k miles, it probably doesn't have bent
rods.
https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/cto/d/cincinnati-1991-mercedes-350-sdl/7490124061.html
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> Correct. There is a “snap switch” that reverses the pump...
By 1991 the Hella snap-switch pump was long gone, and the pump has much more
electronics in it, and a bidirectional motor/pump. There's a pressure/vacuum
switch
that turns off the pump once it has pumped 'enough', and there's a timer
Correct. There is a “snap switch” that reverses the pump so that in one mode it
supplies pressure (unlock) and in the other mode it supplies vacuum (lock). It
also has a time out function if maximum pressure or vacuum isn’t met. If that
occurs, it won’t “flip” to the other mode, making it lock
This is a model that can produce both vacuum and pressure: Mityvac MV8510
Silverline Elite Hand Pump. Looks like they are about $60 on Amazon, you
may be able to find it sold locally and get it today. Make sure you get
one with the switch so you can test both vacuum and pressure.
-
I agree with Manfred. Did you test the circuit for the fuel door with a
MityVac or a similar tool?
Isn't the pump on this car a dual action pump, which produces either vacuum or
pressure as required? That is how my '87 124 wagon works, as well as my
younger 124 cars. If that is true, then
If this is the same system as the one on my daughter's SD, the
pump locks and unlocks both the doors and the gas door. So if the
doors lock and unlock then the pump is not your problem.
If the tubing is good then the next place to look is the air pod
for the gas door, or there could also be
Thanks to Dan for your suggestion. I managed to open the fuel door.
The re is no air leak anywhere in the tubing as Max mentioned. I am
suspecting the vacuum pump in the trunk has gone south.
Anyone have a good vacuum pump laying around? This model has an orthopedic
driver's seat.
PM me if you
> Jim wrote:
> Use the other to feel the lamp. If it's hot
But be careful. The lamp can get painfully - or even dangerously
- hot.
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You can test the battery at home (at least somewhat) by watching what the
voltage does while you crank. IIRC 10.x volts is okay anything less is a fail.
I bought a meter that plugs into the 12v outlet, it also provides 2 usb ports.
It was useful troubleshooting the failing alternator in my '98
They have a diagnostic system they connect at the battery to look at charging
voltage, starter draw, etc., etc. It prints out the results on a little built
in thermal printer. It’s pretty cool.
-D
> On Jan 24, 2019, at 5:04 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Dan Penoff via Mercedes
Dan Penoff via Mercedes writes:
> I would add that most FLAPS will also test the starting/charging system for
> free as well.
Autozone, for one, will test an alternator for free if you remove it and
bring it in. Not sure what they do if it's installled in the car. These
days I'm guessing they
I would add that most FLAPS will also test the starting/charging system for
free as well.
-D
> On Jan 24, 2019, at 4:09 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> The OP has shared offlist that the pre-glow relay was replaced back in
> December IIRC.
>
> At this point, however, given the
The OP has shared offlist that the pre-glow relay was replaced back in
December IIRC.
At this point, however, given the number of less-than-qualified hands that
have been working on the car, I think it would be prudent to go back to a
thought shared earlier and assume nothing, start with fresh
There is no need to monitor brightness, if there's any light at all you have a
problem.
And it sucks to destroy a tool that you're using, no matter how cheap it was.
Then
you need a new tool, _and_ you need to fix your original problem.
-- Jim
___
Replace the test lamp with a cheap multimeter (free from Harbor Freight
sometimes) in the current measuring mode (amps). the current value is
easier top read than how bright the bulb in the test light is. If the
current is really too high, it will fry the multimeter, but it was cheap
remember, and
The test lamp will be seriously impacting the voltage that the whatsit will
be getting, enough that it might not finish initializing correctly. I find it
best
not to provoke the situation.
Yes, the brightness of the test lamp (and these are standard tools, cheap,
not something you have to
Power antennas can cause issues also, IIRC.
Rick
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I was thinking that if you left your test light on for a few minutes you could
get past that bootup stage.
Do you think if you used a fairly large bulb you could use brightness as an
indicator of draw?
If our primary thought is that the glow plug relay is at fault that would be a
pretty hefty
One other time I had my '83 240D, got to the airport a little early so I sat
in the car and listened to the radio for awhile, then hopped out and headed for
my flight.Just as the plane took off I realized I'd left my keys in the car
with the radio on... Rats.
2 weeks later I got back, the car
Curt Raymond via Mercedes writes:
> I once had a flat battery at the airport due to an interior light left
> on. It took a long time for the service truck to put enough power back
> in for my '85 190D to start...
Similar with the '83 300D.
It was about 15 degrees, nighttime, and I knew the
I once had a flat battery at the airport due to an interior light left on. It
took a long time for the service truck to put enough power back in for my '85
190D to start...
Curt
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 10:27 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
A serious no-start
A serious no-start problem can be caused by something as stupid as flipping
on the rear-seat dome light switch, and forgetting to turn it off. Depending
on where/how you park, you might not notice this. Similarly, stuck-on glove
box or trunk lamps can be difficult to notice, but are _easy_ to
> #1 piece of advice I can give you is to stop making any assumptions.
I concur.
> So the first step is to pull the negative battery cable, charge the battery,
> then put a test light between the battery and the negative cable. If the
> light is on you have parasitic draw. Until you've proven
Patrick,
I've spent most of my adult life troubleshooting things and the #1 piece of
advice I can give you is to stop making any assumptions. You've already assumed
you know there isn't a drain (you don't) and that we don't know what we're
talking about (I didn't know about the glow plug
One thing I am confused is that the members do not know the difference
between the early and late models.
Let me clarify from what I see on this 1991 model compared to the early
model.
No glove box. Airbag replaced it.
Glow plug egulator has no strip fuse
There is no alternator charging icon on
I have not been following this thread closely, but I seem to recall early
work on this car was an alternator replacement by a mechanic who was pretty
sloppy in his work, ie, failed to replace the drive belt which was visually
damaged to the point it should have been replaced.
My posit is: The
> I bought a China clamp meter, and for the few times I have used it, I'm
> pretty satisfied.
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O1Q2HOQ?psc=1=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title
Doesn't look too bad, but the 100A maximum current means you won't be able to
read starter current. Looks like it would do
Jim sez:
>The third electrical tool you need for automotive work, behind a good
>multimeter (I use Fluke) and a test lamp, is a clamp-on DC ammeter.
I bought a China clamp meter, and for the few times I have used it, I'm pretty
satisfied. I was $10 cheaper when I bought it.
If the alternator light doesn't glow strongly when the key is on and the
engine is off, then it will not charge.
The third electrical tool you need for automotive work, behind a good
multimeter (I use Fluke) and a test lamp, is a clamp-on DC ammeter.
(These are not particularly cheap.) For that
1. Glow plug relay might have intermittent fault, turns on randomly and drains
battery.
2. Alternator harness at alternator has bad connection, won't pass enough
current to charge the battery.
3. Battery cables are bad / corroded under the insulation, won't pass enough
current to charge the
It seemed like folks gave you all sorts of things to check during the last
email tread. I would go back and read thru all those.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 22, 2019, at 2:55 PM, Patrick Atuonah via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> Thank you for your valuable advice regarding my
Hi Listers,
Thank you for your valuable advice regarding my previous post about my car
mentioned above.
Got response from the dealership tech.
New ignition switch installed and it didn't see the charging issue. Whew!
Saved me $700.
I will be picking up my car Tomorrow(Wednesday)and take it to
Well, the new owner flew to Jacksonville from Dallas, IIRC, picked up my
friend's 350 SDL and drove it back to Texas. $6K and one happy new
owner...gone!
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Sigh.
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: Angelo Giaimo michaelangel...@gmail.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, May 23, 2014 3:45 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL. The end...
Well, the new owner flew to Jacksonville from Dallas, IIRC, picked up my
friend's 350 SDL
I doubt a bent rod would cause engine knock but it does seem that
someone has messed around with the fuel system.
Hendrik
who does not mess with things he knows nothing about, except women
On 03/04/14 21:42, Dan Penoff wrote:
I just asked him in the thread. Let's see what he says.
The
from my iPad
On Apr 3, 2014, at 12:23 AM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:
Good point.
Wilton
- Original Message - From: Hendrik and Fay heni...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2014 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL knock
Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2014 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL knock
Whilst there ask him if he got his knock sorted out?
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/1947938-need-help-fixing-idle-knock-91-a.html
Hendrik
who has
My thoughts, too, on the nailing.
Wilt
- Original Message -
From: Dwight Giles dwight.gi...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2014 7:18 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL knock
Sounds more like nailing than knocking?
On Apr 3
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/sale-wanted-trade-giveaway/1900489-f-s-91-350-sdl-md.html#post7662481
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Subject: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/sale-wanted-trade-giveaway/1900489-f-s-91-350-sdl-md.html#post7662481
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To: Mercedes List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2014 8:37 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/sale-wanted-trade-giveaway/1900489-f-s-91-350-sdl-md.html#post7662481
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Whilst there ask him if he got his knock sorted out?
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w126-s-se-sec-sel-sd/1947938-need-help-fixing-idle-knock-91-a.html
Hendrik
who has to knock on wood
On 03/04/14 12:31, Dan Penoff wrote:
Drop him a note and ask.
Dan
On Apr 2, 2014, at 9:58 PM, WILTON
Good point.
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: Hendrik and Fay heni...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2014 12:11 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1991 350SDL knock
Whilst there ask him if he got his knock sorted out?
http
My snail address:
618 Park Ave.
Goldsboro, NC 27530
Wilton Strickland
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Are you getting that guy to send you the SDL? If not, do you still have
his original email? Wifey is making noises about replacing the
Suburban, that might be an interesting option.
--R
wilton strickland wrote:
My snail address:
618 Park Ave.
Goldsboro, NC 27530
Wilton Strickland
Rich, I'm not getting the FL SDL. You may be able to find the orig. email
in the archives from few days ago.
Wilton
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Rich, I found orig email in archives; sender [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Wilton
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Duh, thanks, I should have thought of that. I did just now go through
them and found it, with your prompting to use the tools at our disposal...
--R
wilton strickland wrote:
Rich, I found orig email in archives; sender [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Wilton
___
Re. books, coupla In The BUFF and several A Carolina Country Boy
Remembers available from me. $20 ea. plus $5 shipping. No movie propects
likely.
BTW, its always later than we think. Time seems to go too fast and gets
faster as we get older. For me now it goes like telephone poles by the
Snail mail address is
618 Park Ave.
Goldsboro, NC 27530
Thnx, Don
Wilton Strickland
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Now I KNOW this is a tough crowd when it comes to these 3.5L
rodbender
engines, but is the longevity of the factory replacement engines better
than the originals? What might a car like this fetch on the open
market?
Factory replacement engines are just fine. No special worries.
-- Jim
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I would go $7,000, just based on your description, fly in and drive it home.
My guess is someone who is really looking for a car like this, with the
replacement engine, would go 12K. Marshall will probably chime in, but the
replacement engines are supposed to be
Mine is the finest driving/riding car I'VE ever driven. BTW, 'been driving
for 57 yrs.
Wilton
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I think that is probably the ultimate 603 engine -- the new rods,
improved head, more torque, etc. It ought to be good for a LONG time.
On 10/13/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Now I KNOW this is a tough crowd when it comes to these 3.5L
rodbender
engines, but is the longevity of
What color is it? Let's see photo.
Wilton
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I agree the 126 is the best car ever made, and the OM 603 versions
are the best of the best!
Jeez Wilton, you must have had several thousand hours of flying time
in before you drove! By my calculation you must have been flying for
about 6-7 years at least before driving!
Inquiring minds want
Here's one on eBay. http://tinyurl.com/2lenky
I once saw one on a car lot locally. Drove it. It had LESS power than my
'83 SD so I'm sure the engine wasn't in top shape. They wanted around $8k
for it and it had been on the market for 8 months. I told them it was
worth $2k with a most
Get off my DSL, you leach!
On 10/13/07, Luther - laptop [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Here's one on eBay. http://tinyurl.com/2lenky
--
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.
Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
Started driving in 1950; to B-52's in 1962.
Which book? In The BUFF finished 4 yrs ago; A Carolina Country Boy
finished 2 yrs ago.
Wilton
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Help me fix this wireless!
On Sat, 13 Oct 2007 22:07:09 -0500, Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Get off my DSL, you leach!
On 10/13/07, Luther - laptop [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Here's one on eBay. http://tinyurl.com/2lenky
--
Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL
'Just realized - 'cause mine still has orig. engine and 188 kmi, I might
aughta buy this one with replaced eng. and only 170 kmi. But I'm leary of
cars from FL - I'v seen several with MANY more miles than claimed. Wonder
what color, etc., it is.
Wilton
___
I got born in 1952 ... and I have grandchildren. ;-)
On 10/13/07, wilton strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Started driving in 1950; to B-52's in 1962.
Which book? In The BUFF finished 4 yrs ago; A Carolina Country Boy
finished 2 yrs ago.
Wilton
no updates on the Q? anyone show up?
On 10/13/07, Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I got born in 1952 ... and I have grandchildren. ;-)
On 10/13/07, wilton strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Started driving in 1950; to B-52's in 1962.
Which book? In The BUFF finished 4 yrs
Old fart!
z
On Sat, 13 Oct 2007 22:31:14 -0500, Wonko the Sane [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
I got born in 1952 ... and I have grandchildren. ;-)
On 10/13/07, wilton strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Started driving in 1950; to B-52's in 1962.
Which book? In The BUFF finished 4 yrs
Sorry, I guess I missed something along the line! Last I knew you
were working on a book. I'm not sure which one that was. Time
flies... Anyway, where are the books available? Got a movie coming
out yet? (only partially joking on the movie.)
Loren
At 10:00 PM 10/13/2007, you wrote:
Hi again.
My friend in Jacksonville, Florida has her 1991 350SDL she's considering
getting rid of. (I think the decision is based on what she can get for the
car; She's considering selling it due to a family illness and does not
need a 3'rd car.). Purchased used from a Mercedes dealership in
I'd like to make an offer RIGHT NOW for the princely sum of $3000.
On 10/12/07, ANGELO GIAIMO [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi again.
My friend in Jacksonville, Florida has her 1991 350SDL she's considering
getting rid of. (I think the decision is based on what she can get for
the
car; She's
In a message dated 10/12/2007 8:24:31 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
My friend in Jacksonville, Florida has her 1991 350SDL she's considering
getting rid of. (I think the decision is based on what she can get for the
car; She's considering selling it due to a
Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] Wrote:
WIlton,
I think I missed something. Why is your trans pronounced dead? You
said there is a delay in shifting into reverse. TO me that is
normal, at least for trans with 100k to 200k or more. You also said
that sometimes you need to rev the engine a little
Bill Aston wrote:
I agree with all of the caution flags shown so far. BUT, having had
the opportunity to ride a long distance with a friend who owned such
a car, I must believe that it represents the very best possible
combination of a superb ride with an economical power source. It
would be
I agree with all of the caution flags shown so far. BUT, having had
the opportunity to ride a long distance with a friend who owned such
a car, I must believe that it represents the very best possible
combination of a superb ride with an economical power source. It
would be a wonderful car to
For my money, the 126 SDL is the best long distance car there is. Period.
the end. I am not convinced there is anything newer or older that is
better. They are comfortable, relatively economical, and still attractive
nearly 30 years after the initial design. (I was told by someone the
One of the most tried and true motors built by Mercedes-Benz.
http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/109969456.html
--
Sunil Hari
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
yes, its tried and true, and timetested beyond a doubt to bend rods.
Sunil Hari wrote:
One of the most tried and true motors built by Mercedes-Benz.
http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/109969456.html
--
Sunil Hari
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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For new
Way overpriced! The stealership here is one of the most arrogant and
onerous (overpriced) in the country. They had a 91 rodbender 5-6 years ago
for 12995, and i'd bet it was every bit as good as this one. Since then
SDLs have lost 50-75% in value.
If it is truly cherry AND has
75 matches
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