> On August 2, 2017 at 10:03 PM OK Don via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>
> Yes, spring loaded syringe, melt with iron, then quickly put the syringe
> tip over it and push the button - pop, there goes the solder.
I squeeze the bulb, put the pc board joint in the hole in the tip of the iron,
wait a co
Yes, spring loaded syringe, melt with iron, then quickly put the syringe
tip over it and push the button - pop, there goes the solder.
On Wed, Aug 2, 2017 at 4:34 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Radio Shack still carries the one I use:
> https://www.radioshack.com/p
Radio Shack still carries the one I use:
https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-45-watt-desoldering-iron
But they're probably talking about a syringe like thing that does the sucking
after you melt it with something else.
> On August 2, 2017 at 5:20 PM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
https://www.amazon.com/WEmake-WM-SP4-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG
On Wed, Aug 2, 2017 at 4:20 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> What is a solder sucker? Sounds like something I need.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 2, 2017, at 4:10 PM, Craig via
: Wednesday, August 02, 2017 2:20 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise control amp install
What is a solder sucker? Sounds like something I need.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 2, 2017, at 4:10 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:
>
> On Wed, 2 Aug 2017
On Wed, 2 Aug 2017 16:20:05 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
wrote:
> What is a solder sucker? Sounds like something I need.
https://www.amazon.com/Electronix-Express-060820-Solder-Desoldering/dp/B00L2HRW92/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1501709179&sr=1-5&keywords=solder+sucker
https://www
What is a solder sucker? Sounds like something I need.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 2, 2017, at 4:10 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:
>
> On Wed, 2 Aug 2017 15:40:34 -0500 OK Don via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>> I use a "solder sucker" to remove most of the old solder, then apply
>> new - I don't trus
On Wed, 2 Aug 2017 15:40:34 -0500 OK Don via Mercedes
wrote:
> I use a "solder sucker" to remove most of the old solder, then apply
> new - I don't trust old mechanically broken/hardened and oxidized
> solder. Only had to do each board once . . .
That would be my approach, too.
Craig
I use a "solder sucker" to remove most of the old solder, then apply new -
I don't trust old mechanically broken/hardened and oxidized solder. Only
had to do each board once . . .
On Wed, Aug 2, 2017 at 10:20 AM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Never occurred to me that
Never occurred to me that somebody might add only heat!
Yes, you MUST use some fresh flux, and the easiest way is
to add a dab of extra solder.
-- Jim
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On Wed, 2 Aug 2017 03:15:34 -0500 fmiser via Mercedes
wrote:
> When you re-flow the joints, add a bit of that Multicore solder.
> I bit of fresh rosin can make an old joint flow nicely. Just a
> bit - unless its a big joint, then load it up. The extra solder
> can also improve the mechanical du
> > Kaleb wrote:
> >
> > ... yesterday the cruise did not want to work during the
> > first part of the day but started working again later on. This
> > was after installling it back on the bracket.
> Jim wrote:
>
> I have had several of these CC amps that I had to re-solder more
> than once befo
I have had several of these CC amps that I had to re-solder more than once
before it would behave. I've never had one that I could not get going,
though.
Not yet, anyway.
-- Jim
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That's what I'm going to do next time. In fact yesterday the cruise did not
want to work during the first part of the day but started working again later
on. This was after installling it back on the bracket. If I got to pull it it
again this is what I will do. I drove the 95 e300 today and the
I found it's often easier to bend open the ears in situ and slip the PCB
straight out.
Repair it on the bench, slip it back into place, and hammer the ears back
over.
(Not until after sufficient testing, of course.)
-- Jim
___
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To search
The CC amp on my 123 wagon is similarly awkwardly placed under the steering
column, and required a bit of time on my back to do the R/R. Since the
Programa rebuild it has worked flawlessly (6 years).
On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 9:11 PM, Michael Esh via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Yes,
Yes, I've done that way as well.
Michael E. Esh
> On Jul 30, 2017, at 2:32 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Get a 1/4” ratchet and an extension and use it from over the top of the brake
> pedal stuff to run the bolt in. If you’re under there and look around you’ll
> see what I’m t
I find that a magnet from an old hard drive works very nicely to hold bots
in place while putting the bracket, etc. on it from below.
The magnet does need to come from an old hard drive, not a newer one - they
are too small/weak.
On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 2:09 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
me
I will add I had to remove the big black round air pipe at the front under the
dash to give me more room. I also pulled the cluster and there is too much
stuff in the way to get to it from above.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 30, 2017, at 1:55 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
>
> I ended up gettin
I ended up getting the bolt started. I was finally able to get into a position
to where I could see it better, carefully got the bracket on and pulled down on
it enough to put enough pressure on the bolt so it would not push back in while
threading the nut. Got the nut on about a thread worth an
Get a 1/4” ratchet and an extension and use it from over the top of the brake
pedal stuff to run the bolt in. If you’re under there and look around you’ll
see what I’m talking about.
It’s a total pig to get to but that was how I recall doing it on my 350SDL.
-D
> On Jul 30, 2017, at 2:29 PM,
I need to get one off the donor 126 but haven't yet so not sure how it
works, but I have found that liberal use of blue tape for holding
various things is a good technique to try for things like this, if you
can get some in there to hold things
--FT
On 7/30/17 2:29 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via
So after working on the cruise amp I had it just tucked up under the dash out
of the way. Today I am trying to actually finish the install. It's held on to
the brake pedal support my a single bolt but it's so awkward trying to work up
under the dash of the 126 you have to be able to keep the bol
The GenRad calls the ESR rating "Q". I look at that,
and the rated capacitance. The Heathkit IT-28 is responsible
for the leakage test, and is the only one that puts significant
voltage on the cap. I always start there, and if it passes that
test then I'll throw it on one of the good bridge test
> > Jim wrote:
> >
> > The Frakos fail, the (few) others I've tested don't.
> Dan wrote:
> That may be, but it’s false economy to not replace all the
> electrolytics while you’re there.
Maybe. But I don't think so. But by measuring the Effective
Series Resistance (which I am _presuming_ is ho
That may be, but it’s false economy to not replace all the electrolytics while
you’re there. While the others might be fine, they’re close to 20 years old if
not older, so why not swap them out anyway? It’s pocket change cost-wise and
takes all of a minute or two to do.
-D
> On Jul 22, 2017
For the record, I have capacitor testers. (Heathkit, GenRad,
Hewlett-Packard.) The Frakos fail, the (few) others I've tested don't.
-- Jim
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On the dozen-plus CC amps I have repaired, I've _never_ replaced any
capacitor except a Frako. The other repair is re-soldering everything. I
had _one_ that killed some driver transistors, probably due to bad
soldering that allowed the H-drive to engage a short across the power.
IMHO, de-Frako
Please share! The CC amp in my wagon has gone wonky again, I'd love to fix
that (again).
-
Max
Charleston SC
On Sat, Jul 22, 2017 at 9:02 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> There are 5 of them that I see, which are the same ones Craig circled in
> b
There are 5 of them that I see, which are the same ones Craig circled in blue.
Poos also sent me his version offlist with the same 5 circled, which is the
exact same 5 I came up with.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 22, 2017, at 7:57 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Why don't you cir
Why don't you circle what you consider to be capacitors and let Jim or
Craig grade your work?
I agree with Jim, that is the only one that I can positively ID as a
capacitor, the other things I'm not sure of (square and upright). I see a
lot of big can-shaped diodes that you may be mistaking for c
I see the Frako one. Are you saying I only need to replace it and not all of
them?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 21, 2017, at 10:44 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
>
> You have exactly one, and it's labeled "FRAKO". That make, in that vintage,
> have a high incidence of failure.
>
> -- Jim
>
__
You have exactly one, and it's labeled "FRAKO". That make, in that
vintage, have a high incidence of failure.
-- Jim
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To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://m
On Tue, 8 Jan 2008 20:34:59 -0600 "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > So now I'm looking for a replacement 13 pin amp, part #7932.
>
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
But not for an opamp.
Craig
__
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> So now I'm looking for a replacement 13 pin amp, part #7932.
>
> Anyone got any ideas where I can find one?
>
> Hans Hansel
> 84 300d
> 80 450sl
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"There are
I took the advice from this group and pulled the cruise control amp from my
84 300d. Tried applying heat to all the solder connections on the back of
the board, but I learned that I'm not as good with a soldering iron as I
thought. I wound up about halfway through before I melted my fingers.
gt; To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
> Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 11:26 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -
>
>
> >I had good experiences on rebuilt CC and other components with Beckmann
> > Technologies (they advertise in the Star)
.
- Original Message -
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 11:26 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -
>I had good experiences on rebuilt CC and other components with
t; .
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Kaleb C. Striplin, work" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
> Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 1:21 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -
>
>
> > Did you chec
uroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.
- Original Message -
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin, work" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements
26, 2007 12:08 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp Replacements -
> FYI --
>Rec'd a rebuilt CC Amp Monday from Geo Murphy in Tenn - cost was $149 +
> a $75 core charge - comes with a 1 year warranty - write
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] for details -
>
>After checking a lot
FYI --
Rec'd a rebuilt CC Amp Monday from Geo Murphy in Tenn - cost was $149 +
a $75 core charge - comes with a 1 year warranty - write
[EMAIL PROTECTED] for details -
After checking a lot of companies offering the CC Amps, George's price
seemed like the best price all around.
I h
! youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: "David Brodbeck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 1:24 PM
Su
thanks David!
- Original Message -
From: "David Brodbeck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 1:24 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp 1979 240D
Jim Cathey wrote:
Jim I bought a good iron tip not a gun
Jim Cathey wrote:
>> Jim I bought a good iron tip not a gun. I took one look at that gun
>> and
>> said no way.
>>
>
> You also need some good solder, and may find that some sort of solder
> removal device (I use a Solda-pullit) to remove excess will come in
> handy.
> And do not overlook
Sorry didn't get that bit. ??
-
Yow, lubrication and rectification in adjoining sentences. I am cringing.
--R
M.Afzaal.Khan wrote:
I will start with the lubrication and report back.I am sure it will do
the
rectification as all other parameters are correct. .
Thanks
mak
Yow, lubrication and rectification in adjoining sentences. I am cringing.
--R
M.Afzaal.Khan wrote:
I will start with the lubrication and report back.I am sure it will do the
rectification as all other parameters are correct. .
Thanks
mak
Barry I will do just that using ATF ,hopefully it will sort out the little
surges,
regards
mak
- Original Message -
From: "Barry Stark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cr
I will start with the lubrication and report back.I am sure it will do the
rectification as all other parameters are correct. .
Thanks
mak
the feedback potentiometer track inside the servomotor wears out, but
that
results in difficulties with one particular speed. If setting a
significantly dif
Its a little surge 0f about 4 Km or so seems like stepped on the pedal
gently for a few seconds. the speed is held overall and does not
overshoot.
seems I don't have the Speedo cable on my 126 300Se/90. its
electronic one
On a 126 you're talking about the servomotor unit. If lubing the
link
Jim I bought a good iron tip not a gun. I took one look at that gun
and
said no way.
You also need some good solder, and may find that some sort of solder
removal device (I use a Solda-pullit) to remove excess will come in
handy.
And do not overlook the paint stripper step. Really.
Go slo
to
you
Regards Tom
- Original Message -
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 1:42 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp 1979 240D
Jim your help and the help of the others has been of hig
Mak -
I seem to remember folks saying that dry ball joints in the throttle linkage
could cause this. I pop them off and lube them with ATF using a Q-tip. I
have a plastic 35mm film container with some ATF and a Q-tip always at the
ready. I find it very handy for all kinds of lube jobs.
Barry
>
>
Its a little surge 0f about 4 Km or so seems like stepped on the pedal
gently for a few seconds. the speed is held overall and does not overshoot.
seems I don't have the Speedo cable on my 126 300Se/90. its electronic one
mak
- Original Message -
Hi the cruise control works alright
Hi the cruise control works alright but has a little surging effect
.
what could be serviced for this?
More description required. Is it a little jiggly surge like a spastic
foot might cause, especially if irregular, or is it more of a long-scale
hunting effect? What is the time scale of t
Jim your help and the help of the others has been of high value. I
went out
today an bought a soder gun. I have three cores. If I mess up I will
send
one to you. No I have never soldered before. So be checking your mail
Jim
I hate to rain on your parade, but if you're soldering for the fir
Hi the cruise control works alright but has a little surging effect .
what could be serviced for this?
mak
- Original Message -
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 5:41 AM
Subject: Re: [MB
t;Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cruise Control Amp 1979 240D
Is thee a link to fix these? MB Model number is 001-545 2132
You can resolder them yourself if you like, most of them see
Is thee a link to fix these? MB Model number is 001-545 2132
You can resolder them yourself if you like, most of them seem to
respond to that in my experience. But it's a tedious job, and
you'd better know how to solder if you want a good chance of success.
Or I can do it. Or you can get a fi
Try Jim at http://cathey.dogear.com/mamerepairs.html
Harry
On 9/24/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Anyone have a cruise control amp they want to sell which they know
works. I
changed one out today for one I got in a "grab bag" ebay sale which had a
bunch of other controlers.
Anyone have a cruise control amp they want to sell which they know works. I
changed one out today for one I got in a "grab bag" ebay sale which had a
bunch of other controlers. The amp is bad.
Is thee a link to fix these? MB Model number is 001-545 2132
Regards Tom Scordato
1979 240D 97K mi
Wrong bulb will cause it not to work.
Sunil Hari wrote:
did nothing but switch the rear fog light bulb and the brake light bulb.
Neither was burned out. Cruise now works at all speeds. WTF?
On 5/16/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
14 pins
Sunil Hari wrote:
Anyone know o
transistors. Schematics are very scarce - Mercedes doesn't supply them
to anyone.
But they _are_ available, at least until the mid 80's.
-- Jim
Sunil Hari wrote:
did nothing but switch the rear fog light bulb and the brake light bulb.
Neither was burned out. Cruise now works at all speeds. WTF?
Old cruise controls do that. They can become intermittent. Sometimes
using them daily improves reliably and sometimes not (but they USUALLY
did nothing but switch the rear fog light bulb and the brake light
bulb.
Neither was burned out. Cruise now works at all speeds. WTF?
Corrosion in the socket causing intermittent contact.
-- Jim
did nothing but switch the rear fog light bulb and the brake light bulb.
Neither was burned out. Cruise now works at all speeds. WTF?
On 5/16/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
14 pins
Sunil Hari wrote:
> Anyone know offhand if my CC amp in my 92 300D is of the 12-pin
variety?
14 pins
Sunil Hari wrote:
Anyone know offhand if my CC amp in my 92 300D is of the 12-pin variety? If
not 12 pins, how many is it? I haven't had time to extract the unit.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300
In a message dated 5/16/2006 2:50:13 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I tried removing the CC amp today - I removed the black plastic panel,
unplugged the CC amp, but I couldn't see/access the screws or bolts holding
the amp in. Where are they?
Also, do I have to
I tried removing the CC amp today - I removed the black plastic panel,
unplugged the CC amp, but I couldn't see/access the screws or bolts holding
the amp in. Where are they?
Also, do I have to remove the tan dash panel just below the steering
column? If so, how? I thought I removed all the sc
Sunil Hari wrote:
Anyone know offhand if my CC amp in my 92 300D is of the 12-pin variety? If
not 12 pins, how many is it? I haven't had time to extract the unit.
As I recall they are 14 pin, but have a plug-in that that earlier units
don't have. It may be matched to the car/engine.
I HAV
Anyone know offhand if my CC amp in my 92 300D is of the 12-pin variety? If
not 12 pins, how many is it? I haven't had time to extract the unit.
--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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