I'll identify myself with a nice run-on sentence. In Ted's photos, I'm
wearing a blue t-shirt and I have a buzzcut and I'm riding the green bike
with brown tires and I just discovered a new enthusiasm for adhering more
strictly to my paleo diet because it looks like I'm plumping up a bit. A
A Revelate mountain feed bag carries my camera, usually. I have a Canon G10.
On Sunday, May 27, 2012 2:18:35 AM UTC-5, stonehog wrote:
I'm curious of those who bring a small SLR or mirrorless camera on trips,
have you found a good way to carry it so you have it ready quickly? I've
always
With all due respect, Jan, that is a highly dubious assertion that 105
cranks will cost less per mile than Ultegra cranks. The MSRP difference in
the crank is $100 ($360 for Ultegra and $260 for 105), If you assume the
chainrings to be the primary wear item, you could buy the 105 crank and
I've posted here on this topic several times before, but thought I'd repeat
a last minute summary for those who may be attending. I have NO IDEA, by
the way, how many will attend. I'd guess 10-500, give or take.
The Midwest Riv Rally will start at Bay Point Park in Red Wing, MN, on
Saturday,
I have not tried the 650B variant, but the A23 is a favorite of mine when I
need a lightweight rim.
On Tuesday, May 29, 2012 6:29:36 PM UTC-5, William wrote:
I just received my 650B A23 rims from Longleaf. My postal scale only does
tenths of an ounce, but they each measure 15.2 oz with the
permission
from the police to leave cars there overnight, but I think it better to ask
drivers to find on-street parking somewhat in a residential area somewhat
near the park. It shouldn't be difficult.
On Tuesday, May 29, 2012 6:51:21 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
I've posted here
I have one in the middling 54cm size that will be available for test rides on
Thursday when we have our Just Ride book-signin' and meat fiesta. Unless
someone buys it first. I agree with the above description of the handling.
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Phil grease is waterproof, which means that the smell lasts on your hands
for many washings. My oldest daughter's first impressions of her doting
father undoubtedly included the slightly minty smell of Phil grease.
Someday when she's being pursued by young men, they'd do well to dab some
Phil
When I first started cycling as an adult, I purchased a $430 big-brand
hybrid style bike that was god-awful ugly but served my novice self
perfectly as a commuter and general transportation/recreation machine. But
when I decided that I was committed enough to bikes to get something
You removed the crank bolt first, right? And just to confirm, you have the tool
specifically for square taper cranks (it has a blue handle, not a black handle)?
Often if it's not budging for some reason, you run the risk of stripping the
dust cap threads if you apply that much force. If there
Glad to see it arrived in time for the Riv rally! Look forward to seeing it
soon!
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I used the rear-mounted one from Topeak lots when my oldest was young and
before I built the ultimate kid-crank tandem. Topeak makes the rack available
separately so you can put the rack on both bikes. On its own, it's a decent
rack for panniers, etc.
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I'm 35, so I missed the bargains on touring bikes in the mid 80s. Of course,
mid 80s MTBs were generally pretty fair touring bikes themselves.
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I'm a taper greaser.
(a little confused that you say there's no bolt holding the crank on, but it
sounds like it worked out)
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Corollary to Justin's excellent point of 'whatever makes you happy is
nobody else's business', I think Grant is saying 'don't be bullied into
conformity by popular bike culture, particularly by unrealistic racing
fantasies'. Sometimes I think Grant likes to humorously needle even
conformity
The woman in question didn't buy a bike from me yet, but the Pacer,
Cross-check, and San Marcos were the three I showed her. Most of the problem is
not speed, but wanting to fit in with the clubby roadies she imagines she'll
ride with someday. And those guys have preached a different sort of
I can't imagine the design team and bean counters at Riv having a meeting about
the threaded fender hole on the seatstay bridge, and determining that it's just
too costly and leaving it out. When I think of Riv, cutting corners to save a
cou
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First, I think it's funny that you request suggestions for a modern bike
with a 1 threaded steerer. Outside this little bubble, 1 threaded forks
are obsolete. Even the 1-1/8 threadless that replaced 1 threaded is on
the wane for non-steel bikes in 2012.
Second, I have suggested many times to
thought to myself: this would be a lot easier if she could drop
the racer notions and stop hanging out with guys who read Bicycling
Magazine as a comprehensive source of cycling wisdom.
On Thursday, May 10, 2012 1:15:32 AM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
Maybe there should
I ran 700x38 Marathon Racers at about 60-70 psi on my most-ridden bike for
most of last year. No flats. If you're getting that many punctures but
haven't found a culprit wire or glass or thorn in the tire, I suggest you
look harder. There has to be at least one little gremlin in there. If you
Wow, GP will be at Hiawatha Cyclery in Minneapolis the previous evening,
May 31. Sounds like a grueling travel schedule!
On Tuesday, May 15, 2012 4:20:52 PM UTC-5, Elton Pope-Lance wrote:
We're not wanting to miss the party, so we've got Grant Petersen on the
docket for a book signing here
-10 at 17:02 -0700, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
I wonder why folks value modulation so highly? In my view, the primary
purpose of brakes is to stop effectively, and therefore, the more
powerful brake is my usual preference.
It's because when I put the brakes on I do not always
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and form follows function. I think
old rod-brake English roadsters have a nice aesthetic, but I'd never go out
of my way to own or ride one.
I believe a lot of cantilever-brake-love has to do with Joe B's observation
that v-brakes are seen as new
Maybe there should be a spoiler alert here - be advised that I will be
discussing various aspects of the new book, so navigate away from this page
if you prefer the content of the book to be a complete surprise.
I finished reading the book tonight, which if I can summarize in a line, is
about
The Deore v-brakes are so much better in so many ways than ANY canti,
especially the fiddly and minimally effective CR720...maybe just take it as
a sign from God that you are meant to use v-brakes on this bike?
On Thursday, May 10, 2012 1:13:04 AM UTC-5, stonehog wrote:
I'm finding that the
Obviously, sizing varies from brand to brand, and frame size makes much
less difference with threadless steerers (if the steerer is left long
enough). So it's not out of line that a 6-footer could optimally ride a
56cm non-Riv.
Anyway: Back in 2005 when I rode and was comfy on a 58 Atlantis
The CR720 is now standard issue on Cross-Checks and LHTs, which are the two
models we sell most at my shop. I've come to dislike cantilevers in general,
but I don't understand the appeal of this model in particular. I doubt I'm
making any setup mistakes, as I've been setting them up and riding
If its a center mount rack, the mounting post might pass over the transverse
part of the brake, rather than under like with cantis. My Curt Goodrich tourer
has just enough clearance for 26 fat franks (2.35) and Berthoud 60 mm
fenders, and normal v-brakes seem fine. Some recent v-brake models
I wonder why folks value modulation so highly? In my view, the primary
purpose of brakes is to stop effectively, and therefore, the more powerful
brake is my usual preference. With v-brakes, scrubbing speed in tight
downhill corners or whatever isn't difficult at all to modulate, UNLESS you
I wonder why folks value modulation so highly? In my view, the primary
purpose of brakes is to stop effectively, and therefore, the more powerful
brake is my usual preference. With v-brakes, scrubbing speed in tight
downhill corners or whatever isn't difficult at all to modulate, UNLESS you
Z-Man: the line about logic/futility gave me a good chuckle. As a bicycle
professional, who frequently tries new bikes, new component setups, new
accessories, etc, I often have people ask me why did you do it THAT way? as
if they expect a sophisticated response that will be logically infallible
The 52 should be just fine.
On Wednesday, May 9, 2012 3:09:00 PM UTC-5, Addison wrote:
I totally was taking it personally when reading the Sam H description! :)
On Wed, May 9, 2012 at 12:49 PM, cyclotour...@gmail.com
cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
The four cm jump is at least consistent,
A good sharp utility knife and some diligent slicing would result in some
lightweight 2.3 650b slicks...
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I think it worked that time. It'll be great to ride with you, JB.
Everybody who's pledged to attend this event is a true gentleman, except that
one guy, but he knows who he is. Speaking of gentlemen, I'm not sure that we
have any ladies planning to come. Not sure that I blame them for having
There is no blue book of used bike values. I know some of you gents are
patient and willing to wait for minty specimens offered for 50% of retail.
Others are willing to pay a bit more to avoid weeks or months of bargain
shopping and haggling. I've sold many used Rivs and other desirable
yet. I'm
going to try to make some portion of it at least...
Shaun Meehan
On Thu, May 3, 2012 at 6:28 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
thill@gmail.com wrote:
No discussion on this, but I've received a couple emails from people who
asked about this, and thought I might move
Bike fitting is a sum of imperfect compromises. Contrary to popular belief,
there is no perfect frame size. But not to worry: stems and seatposts are
adjustable. You may run afoul of the fashion police if your seatpost sticks out
1.7 cm farther than some old French guy's seatpost stuck out in
Odd, I've always found the Supremes to be surprisingly noisy. It doesn't bother
me, as they are wonderful tires. I believe they last longer in proportion to
cost. My buddy Weasel got almost 9000 loaded commuting miles on the rear! His
front tire, also after 9000 miles, looked almost new.
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I'd suggest the Paul cantis. I don't know why people seem to like the
Tektro CR720. Every time I have to set them up or adjust them, I want to
swear off my otherwise enjoyable career. And it's not like they have great
stopping power, so the appeal must be in cosmetics, I guess. I should
That looks fun!
On Thursday, May 3, 2012 3:12:15 PM UTC-5, Dave Faller wrote:
That looks like a perfect place to ride. Nice job!
On 5/3/2012 12:39 PM, carnerda...@bellsouth.net wrote:
My son recently posted a video from a ride together in March. He is
apologetic about the shakiness
a
few HC customers who'll be there. And my usual adventure buddies, of
course. But honestly, I have no idea if it'll be 15 people or 150! Either
way, getting all of us together to ride bikes is going to be a special
thing.
On Monday, April 23, 2012 12:47:16 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
From 2006 through most of 2011, my commute to Hiawatha Cyclery was a 2 minute
walk. Because of changing life circumstances, I moved last Fall to where I
have a 5 mile one-way commute, which is lovely. Minneapolis is an extremely
bike-friendly city, and I live in one of the bike-friendliest
Cyclery
wrote:
We managed to schedule Grant's book-signing visit for May 31 at Hiawatha
Cyclery in Minneapolis, MN, which dovetails nicely into the Midwest Riv
rally that begins the following day, June 1 in Red Wing, MN. It's going to
be a solid 4-5 days of Riv-ish bike fun. And you're invited
I am organizing the Midwest Riv rally, and I don't have a Riv. Toei and Singer
riders, if they exist, are welcome to attend. Frankly, I think we'll have as
many Surly riders as Riv riders. I don't expect much carbon, but you never know.
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Either 56 or 58 would work. The 56 takes 26 wheels, which buys slightly
fatter tire clearance and less toe overlap, if you care about such things.
On Thursday, April 26, 2012 1:15:27 PM UTC-5, soapscum wrote:
Hi gang,
I'm on the lookout for an Atlantis in the not-right-now-but-pretty-
I guess I should have read more carefully, as I think 1996 when I think of
ARs, and a lot of good things have happened to bikes since 1996. This newer
Curt-built AR is a good price, if it fits... I'd be tempted if I didn't already
have several bikes that fill that role.
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There are several excellent front racks on the market, but few work elegantly
with the Atlantis fork braze-ons. Do you have one of the new Atlantis forks
that have threaded holes on top of the fork crown? I adapted a Surly front rack
to work on my touring bike...basically by using some rear
Yep. I've never used the QB crank, but have added Salsa Crossing Guards and
Ring Dingers in place of big chainrings on many of my bikes over the years. For
people who don't like the prevalence of 11t cogs on cassettes...it's not so bad
when your big ring is a 36 or 38 or 40t. In fact, at least
will they know which
one it is? I do have the Silver shifters. It is a 8 speed. It only
skips occasionally - twice in 14 miles. It's more an annoyance since
there are no squeaks or rattles otherwise.
Thanks,
Pam
On Apr 17, 8:07 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
wrote
MichaelH illustrates how little difference it makes. Three minutes is his
largest variation in his 18 mile ride on a variety of different tires with
different bikes, and that variation wasn't even reproducible in a second
trial. I spent seven years in grad school doing science, so I can see
Believe it or not, there are a lot of flakes who are into bikes in the
world. My fave was a guy who called several times to talk to me for a
combined maybe 2+ hours about a Bleriot. I somehow let the word Quickbeam
out of my mouth, and that got him to asking questions about that model. His
Another option: How about having a fenderless bike? You already have three
that have fenders.
On Monday, April 16, 2012 7:55:02 PM UTC-5, EricP wrote:
Wasn't able to resist any longer. Snagged a 60cm SimpleOne a week ago.
Frame arrived today. Spent the afternoon putting it together.
If it's skipping around the rear cluster with Silver shifters, I'd suggest
making sure the shifter bolt is tight. Also, I find that these shifters are
at their best with 7/8sp cassettes or freewheels. With 9sp, the ratcheting
is too imprecise for my tastes, but others report apparently
I just ordered a San Marcos in 54cm. I'll probably build it up
semi-Riv'ish, but with my own somewhat more contemporary touch of style. If
it doesn't sell right away, it'll be here for inspection and testing for
Grant's book signing on May 31.
On Sunday, April 15, 2012 5:08:47 PM UTC-5, Vespa
If it is the smallest cog only, then the stiff link hypothesis has a point in
its favor, as the stiff link will be most obvious on the smallest cog, which
has the tightest curvature.
You can generally buy a small cog for your cassette if it turns out to be worn.
Seems unlikely, because most
Most new chains are not intended to be installed with a chain tool. If you did
install it with a chain tool, check for a stiff link. The easy way is to stand
beside the bike while smoothly rotating the crank backward with your hand.
You'll see the stiff link as it passes through the rear
Similar to a Ram in function? Yes, in the sense of tire clearance and general
appearance. However, if I recall correctly, the sequoia has very long
chainstays, while the Ram had short chainstays (by Riv standards).
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I must be thinking of another model. Was there a heavier touring model?
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You can put the 73 mm Tektro brakes on a Ram, with pads at the top of the slot.
Somebody said the Roadeo is much lighter, but I doubt that much lighter is
more than a couple ounces (part of which is DT shifter bosses). Most Rams had
what I would describe as sport-touring componentry. Put
Ha! I have an eccentric ENO hub on my Cross-Check with long horizontal
dropouts. Now I can adjust through a more or leas continuous spectrum of chain
tension, wheelbase, BB height, and trail. I should send it to Jan for
scientific analysis!
(PS: I had the wheel in a v-dropout fixie before I
In the good old days when I started following Riv, maybe 2004 or so, Riv
had 2 models: the Atlantis, which was the touring and rough stuff bike,
and the Rambouillet, which was the Riv for riding mostly on paved roads
with 28 mm tires. I assume that the Ram and Roadeo geometry are similar,
but
Grant has stated his reluctance in the past to get involved in bikes with IGHs.
I don't blame him. It's a case of a lot of people having unrealistic
expectations that don't match reality.
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that was unrealistic in this case was
that the SO would sell. I'm just throwing out a hypothetical (and
apparently heretical :-p) idea that might have made a difference. We'll
never know.
On Tuesday, April 10, 2012 11:54:10 AM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
Grant has stated his
Stability is more a function of wheelbase and steering geometry and traction
than it is a few pounds of bike weight. Besides your touring bike would
generally have 40+ lbs of gear strapped to it, which makes a light bike into a
heavy bike.
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Most 1-1/8 stems come with a shim. There are few, if any, 1 stems on the
market, but I haven't done an exhaustive search. 1 stuff, threaded or
threadless, is getting more and more oddball every year, as almost nobody
(except Riv) makes bikes with 1 steerers now. The stem and headset
Summary from imperfect memory: While reviewing the BD, Jan experienced a
variety of technical troubles that are not common with BDs (namely with the
disc brakes trying to eject the ft wheel). Not sure if he had a defective
example (Surly almost never has a defect, but you never know), or if
Also, in reference to Ted's comment about the Cross-check being more an analog
to the Hillborne than to the SO:
That's definitely true if you're talking about the Cross-check as a geared
bike. In that case, the two bikes have a lot of similarities, except one looks
fancier and costs $600 more
Good luck in your search, Jared. Just wanted to chime in that the 64 LHT is
similar in geometry to the 67 AHH. We recently sold a 62 cm LHT to a guy who
has a 65 cm AHH that we were trying to match fit-wise, and they were pretty
close in all the relevant measurements. In fact, I thought he'd be
I've never seen a stem THAT stuck on such a new bike. I'd put away the
chemistry set for now, and see if lube and carefully applied force will have an
effect.
I've seen people loosen the headset top nut with the intention of removing the
stem, but that has no bearing, so to speak, on securing
The orthodox solution is a Nitto Noodle. An unorthodox solution is the Salsa
Woodchipper. I'd rather suggest the Salsa Cowbell, but that one is 31.8 and
will not fit a quill stem.
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Despite the bazillion fixies on the market, I don't think
anybody else has offered a dedicated single speed / fixed gear bike
with a real fork crown, fender eyelets (with room for fenders), and
all those braze on rack mounts.
Well, except for the dedicated single speed part, the Surly Cross
Sometimes we enthusiasts get carried away with gear fetishism. Many of us can
rattle off detailed specs of various tents on the market, and all for basic
portable shelter! Back in college I camped a lot with no tent whatsoever. Then
I bought some closeout eureka tent that was poorly reviewed,
Obviously, not everybody will want a single-speed conversion on a non-dedicated
SS bike. My point was more to explain, in part, why maybe the SO/QB wasn't a
better seller because of frames like the CC that, in function, do the same
thing, for less dough.
Another factor that I think relevant to
Cheap cotton boxers from Target for me, under MUSA shorts when temps are
above 40F. The boxers have to be broken in (ten or so wearings/washings)
before I wear them on longer rides. When new, the fabric is a little too
stiff. I tried padded shorts half a dozen times, and I found them horrible
Ablejack: in my understanding, TA cranks were installed on the earliest MTBs
because everything else at the time was 52/39 or thereabouts. Campy had a
triple, but it was 54/42/36! Once some Japanese companies started making 110/74
cranks in 1983 or so, nobody ever used a TA on a MTB again. The
We should take care with the term compact double. A road compact double is
typically 50/34, and may not be suitable for loaded touring. A mountain
double is usually a 39/26 or 42/28 or similar. Paired with the 11-36 or 12-36
casertes, the mountain double gives all the usable range of a triple
Can anybody clearly articulate the differences between the AHH and the
Roadeo? I doubt the weight difference is more than a few ounces. And having
followed Rivendell's trajectory of bike design pretty closely for the past
8 years, I'd be surprised if the geometry was vastly different between
order from
Nobilette..?
Joe Bernard
Vaallejo, CA.
On Thursday, April 5, 2012 8:05:24 AM UTC-7, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
wrote:
Can anybody clearly articulate the differences between the AHH and the
Roadeo? I doubt the weight difference is more than a few ounces. And having
followed
Pretty sure it's the cowboy thing. Some people who don't approve of cowboy
rodeos were mad about that at the beginning
On Thursday, April 5, 2012 10:29:53 AM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
Do I have this wrong? I've always pronounced it RO-deo, like the cowboy
thing, which always struck me as a
I know you're being tongue-in-cheek when you declare that anything is the
indisputable best. I work on enough old bikes to kill whatever nostalgia
I may have once had for old parts or even for new parts that look old. I
can't imagine a scenario where I'd consider putting an antiquarian crank
Is that your actual saddle height? If so, it looks like the bike is far too
small for you, and I'm not seeing the 3-4 cm bar above the saddle height. It
looks like the stem is maxed out and barely to saddle height?
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Also, the saddle looks like it's pushed forward of center in the seatpost
clamp. I'd slide it all the way back, and if you still feel excessively
stretched, try a stem with shorter extension.
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There must be a trustworthy shop in Seattle that can at least look at your
set-up without charging you hundreds for a bike fitting. We often see bikes
come in for repair where the set-up just looks painful, where it was clear the
owner was attempting a DIY procedure to make it more comfy. Not
I recently sold my 1983 Stumpjumper, which I rode quite a bit the last five
years. The previous owner didn't ride it as much, but he did regular
maintenance on the bearings. The headset was original to the bike and still
felt smooth. I've noticed that some people always have crummy headsets,
Go for an all-black SRAM X9 kit (with TT500 bar-ends) and White Industries
MI5 hubs. It will be unique in the Riv world, and the stuff is beautiful in
function.
On Sunday, April 1, 2012 7:53:19 PM UTC-5, dr...@charter.net wrote:
In a few days I should be getting my Atlantis frame back newly
- is there one
specifically that you would recommend?
On Apr 2, 4:23 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com
wrote:
Go for an all-black SRAM X9 kit (with TT500 bar-ends) and White
Industries
MI5 hubs. It will be unique in the Riv world, and the stuff is beautiful
in
function
I built some lightweight wheels for my 26 bike using Sun ELQ21 rims. They are
the lightest welded 26 rim I could find and they were pretty affordable. 32h
only, and black with machined sidewalls. 770 series XT hubs are competitive
weight-wise with many much pricier hubs. I also suggest Kojak
Adam Turman, the artist who does our posters, sad he has a few spares of the
first poster Enjoy the Ride, which is the one with the waterfall.
The new Spring Ride posters came in. In person, they are gorgeous. The bright
red-orange in the proof is muted and more burnt orange, which fits the
That is to say, if you want one of the first year posters, contact Adam T
directly. Adamturman.com should get you in touch with him.
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... Thanks.
Adam
DownEast
On Mar 21, 12:56 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery
thill@gmail.com wrote:
Our posters have been popular among the most tasteful members of this
group, though the RBW connection is not direct. Anyway, here is the
version
for 2012. The quantity
The new posters can be found here. We also have a small number from last year
at a reduced price.
http://tinyurl.com/6tw77vq
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In my experience, the Surly LHT is considerably stiffer than the Atlantis (the
Atlantis being closer to the Cross-check than LHT). Ghost shifting on a LHT
seems unlikely to be caused by frame flex, even with a heavy load. I'd suspect
some misadjustment, loose shifter, or worn or mismatched
I'd tend to look at the silver shifters as the culprit, especially if you're
running a 9sp cassette. There's enough slop between clicks in the ratchet
system in those shifters that even if the shifter is tight enough,
derailleur/chain placement will be imprecise in some gears. In that case, a
Mongo here uses an iPhone app that turns his phone into an angle measuring
device. Surely, you or someone you know has such a device.
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Keyword spamming is common, and Rivendell is a popular one. My favorite was
the listing for a nasty, kinked old piece of cable housing that was
allegedly removed from a Rivendell.
On Thursday, March 29, 2012 6:48:54 PM UTC-5, William wrote:
...and it's on ebay now starting at $750.
I see from the variety of responses here that it has been done, and
apparently deemed successful by several knowledgeable people. My thought on
it is purely philosophical, and is parallel to my thoughts about
double-sided hubs on single speed bikes. It seems like it would be cool to
be able to
I believe there's a not insignificant portion of the bicycle
enthusiast community who look to ebay, craigslist, swap meets, etc,
first, and only deal with retail bicycle outlets as a last resort. We
certainly see it on the repair end, where people do horrific things to
fix minor mechanicals or fit
A few years ago, a couple came into the shop with matching new Atlantises, both
decked out in matching bag kits from Berthoud, I think. They were just out for
a day ride, so the extravagant baggage was excessive. If they like it that way,
I get it, but it was over-the-top to me. I think it was
We did a 10--8 Shimergo conversion recently. If we set it up to shift in the
middle of the cassette, indexing was suboptimal at the top and bottom of the
range. The customer brought it back to us several times for fine-tuning before
giving up on the idea. Maybe I missed some subtle nuance to
Well, modern-ish Campy will generally be made for road bikes with 130 mm
dropout spacing. The Atlantis is 135 mm, so you'll have to squish the frame
a little, modify a hub. Or maybe you already have CK hubs with a Campy
freehub? When you've figured that out, you'll have to reconcile yourself to
701 - 800 of 1443 matches
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