-Original Message-
From: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Steve Palincsar
Sent: Friday, December 12, 2014 1:08 PM
To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again
On 12/12/2014 03:57 PM, Doug Williams
My gofast has a 15 t small and a 17 t big (both fixed) with a single 46 t
ring (and 24 1/2 actual diameter 650C wheels). My ultimate top speed (at
least on 2 occasions) was 37.5 mph; my typical downhill top speed is 30
mph; and my typical downhill cruising speed is 25 mph. ~168, 136, 112 crank
rpm
One thing to note - recent xt model derailers (at least mine) no longer have
the floating upper pulley. So flipping pulleys will have no effect.
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Hmmm...interesting. If true, this could save me some hassle. Thanks for the
tip, when I get my new bike, I'll definitely check before I start messing
with the pulleys.
Doug Williams
On Sunday, December 14, 2014 9:03:19 AM UTC-8, Clayton.sf wrote:
One thing to note - recent xt model derailers
The side play in the upper pulley goes with Shimano's indexing. The shifter
has a very crisp break when going to the next gear and the abrupt pull of
cable and the tiny bit of over shift caused by this is moderated in
movement of the chain by that rear derailleur's bit of slop in that upper
Hi Doug,
I have a similar set up to what you're building up:
- 56cm AHH with Suntour friction down tube shifters (Noodle hbar)
- Sugino triple and HG41 8 speed rear.
- Shimano XT front and rear derailers (bit-o-bling, but works nicely)
It works great. For the terrain I ride, the
Well I do get hills where I live, and especially when I head north. My
knees (and the rest of my body) are not getting any younger. So I like a
full range of gears. I had decided to go with 8 gears for better friction
shifting, and I think I should stick with that because most people report
On 12/12/2014 03:57 PM, Doug Williams wrote:
Well I do get hills where I live, and especially when I head north. My
knees (and the rest of my body) are not getting any younger. So I like
a full range of gears. I had decided to go with 8 gears for better
friction shifting, and I think I should
, December 12, 2014 1:08 PM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again
On 12/12/2014 03:57 PM, Doug Williams wrote:
Well I do get hills where I live, and especially when I head north. My
knees (and the rest of my body) are not getting any
:08 PM
To: rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript:
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again
On 12/12/2014 03:57 PM, Doug Williams wrote:
Well I do get hills where I live, and especially when I head north. My
knees (and the rest of my body) are not getting any younger
...@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Friction shifting and pulleys again
On 12/12/2014 03:57 PM, Doug Williams wrote:
Well I do get hills where I live, and especially when I head north. My
knees (and the rest of my body) are not getting any younger. So I like
a full range of gears. I had decided
On 12/12/2014 04:38 PM, Doug Williams wrote:
Steve,
I suppose you could do that, but then 13 and 14 are awfully close together. I
couldn't even tell the difference as I lack your finesse. :-)
I have no difficulty at all telling the difference between 13-14-15, the
three 1-tooth gaps on my
Just to toss more grit into the gears, Miche makes Shimano-compatible
outers (perhaps Campy ones too) up to 16. I run a 16-26 9 speed on my ram
(with compact 52/38 rings) (very nicely shifted with Silver dt levers
pulling a 7400 DA rd.
I've several times crammed a non-outer-position-specific 14
Steve,
Maybe I'm reading Sheldon's Gear Calculator incorrectly, but I get 108.7
gear inches with 46x11 and 650b wheels. So yes...a little high, but not
anything close to 125 (which I admit would be silly). Also, the 14 gives me
85.4 gear inches, so the gap between 11 and 14 would be 23.3 gear
Gearing is almost as fun to calculate and talk about as to ride.
The jump between an 11 and a 14 (46 t ring -- I assume few on this list are
using 53s with any normal cassette) is 24. PDB. EDB would be the 28
between them using the 53.
I love gear fiddling. Even though I ride mostly fixed on
I meant to specify a nominally 27 700C wheel.
On Fri, Dec 12, 2014 at 5:32 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
Gearing is almost as fun to calculate and talk about as to ride.
The jump between an 11 and a 14 (46 t ring -- I assume few on this list
are using 53s with any normal
I think your component choices all sound lovely. Go ahead and think about
trying an Altus rear derailer. I haven't done that yet, but I have
absolutely gotten to the opinion that when you are friction shifting,
expensive derailers are really overrated. Cheap works great!
Flopping the
Agree with Bill on all points. Rivendell' recommended components
work'n'play well together. To your concern about using the 34 cog only
with the 24 ring, you may be favorably impressed with how well the 8 tooth
jump from the 26 to 34 works. A 36 middle ring with a 34 cog will get you
up a
For me, swapping the pulleys made a world of difference. I'm on the 9-speed
though. I'd have to look up the numbers, but the range I have is the same
as your's in the rear and in the front is Riv's standard triple set up. I
love the 34 in the rear, as I can stay in the middle front ring for 90%
Bizarre that a derailer company would design the pulleys that don't
function optimally in their original orientation.
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They do operate optimally for index shifting, where some wiggle helps
apparently. It doesn't help with friction shifting though.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Thursday, December 11, 2014 5:22:18 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
Bizarre that a derailer company would design the pulleys that don't
The derailer company designed the derailer to work properly with indexed
shifting systems. That's what more than 90% of their customers use...so no
mystery there. Wobbly upper pulleys work best with indexed shifters. It is
only the small, deeply disturbed minority using friction shifters who
deeply disturbed..ha! That's funny.
1. *I use Silver bar ends on my Blue 2013 Sam* with the stock RBW build of
the time Deore front derailer and Deore rear derailer, both, with a
non-stock 8-speed Hyperglide cassette, that I got from the RBW site and
everything works great. I do get some auto
I am surprise the Goats have not found this post yet. I do not have them
but would love to hear randonneurs review on these since they may block the
use of the front bag. Other than that, they look like solid shifters for
riders who ride the hood. These shifters are for cyclocross users and
Coincidentally, saw a review for the Retroshift shifters on Urban Velo:
http://urbanvelo.org/retroshift-cx2-brakeshift-levers/
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Couldn't you also put the thumb shifters on the top bar, like on a mountain
bike? Seems easier than a stem shifter. I like the retroshift idea
myself. I may have to give those a try!
Chris
On Sunday, August 4, 2013 10:35:10 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:
Is there one in existence?
I love my
Have to agree that stem shifters are super convenient and can be had for
small sums of money. Old Suntour or Shimano with long levers work well and
you can change gear for front or rear with either hand. This is a low cost
and excellent option, if the Kelly's or Retroshift weren't more your
+1 for stem shifters. I have Simplex Retrofriction mounted on Riv's mounts,
and it's pretty awesome. I use them with V-O Porteur bars so not a direct
comparison, but I would think reaching back in the same plane from the
hoods on drops would be better for you than the downward move to bar-cons.
Retroshift shifters http://retroshift.com/ will come pretty close to what
you are describing.
On Sunday, August 4, 2013 11:35:10 PM UTC-6, Michael wrote:
Is there one in existence?
I love my Silver shifters, but would like a more convenient reach to a
shifter on drops.
I have to keep
Those are a good suggestion. Cheaper would maybe be mount them to the stem.
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Another possibility: Kelly Take Offs. IIRC, these were featured many moons
ago in a RR.
http://kellybike.com/2nd_xtra_takeoff.html
On Monday, August 5, 2013 6:13:41 AM UTC-4, Johnny Alien wrote:
Those are a good suggestion. Cheaper would maybe be mount them to the
stem.
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Ouch, Zach. I'm not sure how that can happen. Did you hit it with your
tones pointed in? You might want to think about a simple toe clip. I use
the Bruce Gordon with the White pedal on my town - errand - touring bike;
and like them a lot because they pretty much keep my foot settled while
Nope, it was my heel.
i hopped up onto the pedal, my heel kind of missed the target (pedal) and
found a new target (front derailer).
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I find this to be relatively amusing:
One of the tips in here was to switch to a compact double.
Well, last week, I was in traffic in our downtown and pushed down with a
ton of force to get up to speed really quickly at a green light. I am a
big dude, and I ended up driving my sneaker down
just finished Just Ride, and there is a bunch of good stuff in the book.
if you come across this thread and are looking for more tips/insight, pick
up the book!
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OK, I probably shouldn't post this, but I can't resist. There's a common
topic on the tandem list about people yelling, Hey fella, she's not
pedaling. label this, she's not shifting.
Two years ago we bought a tandem, and my wife fell in love with it; so much
so that, until today, she hadn't
The stop thingy is only used when that shifter is mounted on the downtube.
You were right to re-use the round one without the stop thingy on your
bar-con pod.
On Monday, April 30, 2012 9:54:57 AM UTC-7, Lynne Fitz wrote:
looseness of the bolt isn't the issue. I thought it was, but I'd
A little blue Loctite on the bolt's threads will fix this problem.
On Sun, Apr 29, 2012 at 7:22 PM, pam pamelamurra...@gmail.com wrote:
This happens occasionally on mine too. I just tighten it and it's
fine. I thought that's the way they work. I'll be taking it in for a
tuneup and have
looseness of the bolt isn't the issue. I thought it was, but I'd
really reef it down, and a few miles later, the shifter would just
lose it. This has been an intermittent problem since I originally
took delivery of the bike in July 2010.
In any case, the original vendor was Velo Orange, so I
This happens occasionally on mine too. I just tighten it and it's
fine. I thought that's the way they work. I'll be taking it in for a
tuneup and have them looked at. It only happens once every few months
and I just tighten a slight bit. I thought they just worked
themselves loose over time.
I too suspect a thicker washer is the solution.
Counterintuitively, sometimes when mechanical things slip, the
solution is to apply a thin layer of oil or grease to every metal-to-
metal interface including both sides of all washers and to all
threads. This enables you to tighten them more.
It
Joes' advice is great. It's simple stuff. It's like learning to ride a
bikeonce you figure it out (and that's not to tough) you just get
better. I prefer it but it's what I learned on and still think it's as
good as it gets. You have to dance on the pedals so to speak. In
fact, given my
Hey, Bicycling Magazine every so often is good for something.
I kid, I kid.
On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:02:56 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
What may seem intuitive to me today came from reading exactly the way
you're doing now. It may be possible to teach oneself all the shifting
Which one is the shifter bolt? If I ask the LBS will they know which
one it is? I do have the Silver shifters. It is a 8 speed. It only
skips occasionally - twice in 14 miles. It's more an annoyance since
there are no squeaks or rattles otherwise.
Thanks,
Pam
On Apr 17, 8:07 pm, Jim Thill -
It's the little loop bolt that attaches the shifter to the frame or to the
bar-end pod. You can tighten it with your fingers. Your LBS will know
exactly what to do, if you ask.
On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 11:03:25 AM UTC-5, pam wrote:
Which one is the shifter bolt? If I ask the LBS will
I'm a friction noob too but some things that helped me:
- Move to a compact double. Seriously. I have one less gear I didn't
need anyway and I fiddle with my shifters 90% less. Anyone who says a
triple in front is just as easy as a double hash been riding bikes for a
very long
I have this 25 year hole in my riding history, stopped around 1987, just
restarted last year. So i've never NOT shifted friction. Before my
Hilsen, I was grinding gears through an old (and miserable)
schwinn-approved Huret. That will get upgraded if i ever bring that bike
back on line...
Right on happycamper! I couldn't agree more. I run both a double and
triples in 9 speed mode and am happy with both, but anyone who says a
triple is just as easy to use as a double is probably in denial. My
favorite setup is on my Ram, 44/30 rings on a White Ind Crank mated to an
11/28 9
The remedies for throwing chains I've used is careful adjustment of the
front derailer, and making those front shifts gently. One rule of them
which will contribute to shifting this way is shift before you need to.
If you're approaching an incline that will require the granny ring, go
ahead
I'm not quite sure what you mean by throwing chains on the big granny
gear, but assume you mean the chain overshifts and falls to the outside of
the ring. If so there are three possible causes. The limit screws in the
F dr may need to be tightened just a bit. You can also buy a chain
I have thrown the chain off the outside ring (i.e. the chain goes too far
outside) and off the inside ring (i.e. it goes too far inside). I have
fiddled with the limit screws and followed the riv install a derailer
video, by my eye things look right.
Setup questions:
I have the Alpina FD
8
I'm not familiar with that derailler. Make sure the derailler is only a
couple of mm above the big ring. Some deraillers, including the popular
105, have such a long cage that they cannot be lowered down to a 46 ring
without hitting the chain stay. I use the Campy, which has a pretty short
From the Master (Sheldon Brown): Everything you need to know about chain wear,
skipping, etc.:
http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
--Eric N
On Apr 17, 2012, at 4:34 PM, Michael Hechmer mhech...@gmail.com wrote:
I'm not familiar with that derailler. Make sure the derailler is only a
FD was from Riv, I had them do the setup last year when I got the bike.
It would surprise me if I had already worn out either a chainring or a
casette, only rode the Sam for the end of the summer until now, less than
1,000 miles I would imagine.
slipping on the cogs, not the rings.
have
If it's skipping around the rear cluster with Silver shifters, I'd suggest
making sure the shifter bolt is tight. Also, I find that these shifters are
at their best with 7/8sp cassettes or freewheels. With 9sp, the ratcheting
is too imprecise for my tastes, but others report apparently
Zack, I live in a hilly area so I use all three rings pretty often..this
may not apply to your terrain. Like you, I ride flattish roads in the
middle ring, but when approaching an incline I'll usually shift to the
small ring up front before bottoming out the gears in back. So my
conditions are
Joe -
Thank you for the response - perfect description, and also the exact
opposite of what I have been doing.
To some of you guys may just be intuitive or obvious, but it takes me a
little bit to catch on to things.
I will also tighten the silvers up again. It does seem like I have to *
On Tue, Apr 17, 2012 at 7:46 PM, Zack zack...@gmail.com wrote:
I will also tighten the silvers up again. It does seem like I have to *
really* have them tight in order for them not to slip on the Sam. I had
a Salsa Casseroll that had silvers which was not nearly as finnicky.
I had this
What may seem intuitive to me today came from reading exactly the way
you're doing now. It may be possible to teach oneself all the shifting
tricks strictly from riding and doing, but I prefer to ask someone who
already knows them. My front shifting approach was derived from a Bicycling
Recently switched to 9sp 7700 Dura Ace downtube indexed shifters after
a long time using Silver friction dt shifters. Maybe I'm getting lazy,
but I'm pretty happy with the result particularly when off-road.
The indexed shifters shift perfectly every time. It turns out that
you can also use
I have friction shifters on one of my bikes, and indexed shifters (the
old SunTour Accushift) on my Rivendell Road Standard. I actually
prefer the indexed shifters, just a quick click and the bike is in the
gear with no need to trim or adjust the shift. Maybe I'm lazy, but
the ease of shifting
This thread is 30 posts long, so WTH, I'll weigh in with my 2 cents. STI
brake-shift levers pretty much (hard to find the right words) brought back
my cycling life in 1995. Been riding them ever since, mostly the very same
components (105-8), now installed on my new-to-me Riv. I won't give
On Sep 13, 6:16 pm, Thomas Lynn Skean thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net
wrote:
Does anybody here use other modern index arrangements, like STI or higher
numbers of cogs or other brifters? If so, are those systems more finicky?
Like, do they require regular re-alignment? miss gears? seem hard to
Funny. Because of this discussion, decided to move the little lever
on my Shimano 8 speed clickers to friction for the commute into work
this morning. As before, it works fine. No problems with it. In
fact, could argue it operates a bit smoother than the Silver shifters
on my Sam Hillborne.
On Wed, Sep 14, 2011 at 6:25 AM, Patrick in VT swing4...@gmail.com wrote:
Still, I love 9spd dura ace indexing downtube shifters - just some
about the click/pop super positive engagement on those.
These are excellent. I put them on my Romulus years back and I swore
if they gave me the least
Title - Shop Class as Soulcraft
Author - Matthew B. Crawford
Fantastic book.
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I first saw the rackaleur at the LBS (Counterbalance Bicycles) on the
B-G a few months ago. It had one of VO's boxy bags attached to it. I
thought it was an inexpensive alternative to decaleurs, and I didn't
want to put a front rack on my Atlantis. And I was really fixated on
getting a boxy-style
The other day I was doing my morning ride with a friend who has STI
shifting. So we're riding along, and we both shift for a hill. His
clicked into gear, mine to a bit of feel. At that point, I think I
realized why I like friction shifting: it's like shifting a manual
transmission as opposed to an
Hi, all.
My general experience is that indexing works very, very well. But my
experience has been almost entirely with SL-BS64 (Ultegra) 8-speed shifters
(the bar-con, sometimes bar-end but sometimes on thumbies) with a 7-speed
IRD freewheel. I've also used SL-BS64 shifters with
On Tue, 2011-09-13 at 15:16 -0700, Thomas Lynn Skean wrote:
Does anybody here use other modern index arrangements, like STI or
higher numbers of cogs or other brifters? If so, are those systems
more finicky? Like, do they require regular re-alignment? miss
gears? seem hard to control? shift
Ditto!
Pretty much my favorite all-time shifting system.
On Sep 13, 2011, at 3:40 PM, Steve Palincsar wrote:
I have several - lots - of bikes that have 9 speed indexed drive trains
with Shimano indexed bar end shifters. They aren't finicky at all, and
do not require regular
Thomas:
One of my touring buds (with decades of experience) has 9 speed STI on
both his go-fast (a 20 year old, lugged steel custom Lighthouse) and
his REI Randonnee touring bike, both with triples. Both function
perfectly. He recently fitted the Lighthouse with a wide(r) range
cassette to get
I think you get used to what you use. I use silvers on a couple
bikes...bikes I ride all the time...8 and 9 speed, and I can move the
levers into a specific gear without a thought. No fussing, no
figiting. I honestly can't imagine index being any more precise or
quicker...could be though. I
I don't think I'd ever actually get to the point where the chain simply
lands in alignment with the cog 98+% of the time, which is how I'd
characterize my Shimano-shifter indexing experience.
You may be surprised at how accurate you can be with some practice. One of
the things that I like
Thomas .. your first ride with friction shifters and you're already
saying you'll never be accurate shifting with them? Give yourself some
time with them. They require some conscious effort at first, but they'll get
easier. Stop comparing them with indexed shifters . 'cause that they
I should point out... this was my first decent-length ride with Silver
shifters, not friction. I rode with friction shifting for most of a decade as a
teenager. Rode a lot, actually, compared to normal kid riding. While shifting
then was never a big problem, it was something that I always to be
One place where I'd be inclined to choose indexing is for off road
riding where rough terrain makes smooth friction shifting hard to do.
As it is, my terrain is mostly flat, so I don't bother, but for
terrain that called for a lot more shifting, I'd be inclined to choose
it. But only 7 speed
On Mon, 2011-09-12 at 05:01 -0700, Thomas Lynn Skean wrote:
I should point out... this was my first decent-length ride with Silver
shifters, not friction. I rode with friction shifting for most of a decade as
a teenager. Rode a lot, actually, compared to normal kid riding. While
shifting
On Mon, 2011-09-12 at 04:04 -0700, Michael Hechmer wrote:
You may be surprised at how accurate you can be with some practice.
One of the things that I like about the Silver shifters is that I can
leap across most of the cassette in a single move, which is nice when
or if you ride a lot of
I tried friction for awhile with the Silver shifter and I got to the point
where I could shift perfectly about 98% of the time. I switched to Shimano
bar-cons for a test and to be honest can not see myself going back to
friction. They work really well and when they are get out of whack I can
I guess I should confess to being an 'imperfect' shifter.
I've got silvers on the Saluki and bar end indexers on the custom and like em
both.
Never thought about high 90% shifting accuracy. Don't really notice probably
cause I've got poor powers of shifter discrimination.
Or...I've just got
The truth is it really doesn't matter what kind of shifting one does. If I
had a choice of indexed or or not riding at all indexed it'd be :) We
have a choice though and we have good ones. Life is a celebration of
being doing . . . . when my days as Garth are over . . . . I
On Monday, September 12, 2011 9:37:24 AM UTC-5, Garth wrote:
The truth is it really doesn't matter what kind of shifting one does. If I
had a choice of indexed or or not riding at all indexed it'd be :) We
have a choice though and we have good ones. Life is a celebration of
On Monday, September 12, 2011 7:04:21 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
One place where I'd be inclined to choose indexing is for off road
riding where rough terrain makes smooth friction shifting hard to do.
As it is, my terrain is mostly flat, so I don't bother, but for
terrain that called
http://db.tt/Y01RjLd - Rackaleur, Baggins, and Irish
I like that rackaleur solution for you Hobo bag. It's very elegant.
I've been using hemp tied between my Hobo bag's D-rings and brake
hoods to suspend it from the h'bars. I need to order one from VO.
-Steve DeMont
Seattle
On Sep 12, 3:07 am,
FWIW, I rode PBP this year with friction-shifting downtube levers. There's
plenty of varying terrain, and I found the setup (7-speed freewheel) to work
just fine. I never really missed index shifting. I also took comfort in the
fact that there's very little to go wrong with friction
Out of practicality I ride indexed 9-speed derailleurs for off-road,
and can't imagine getting by without them; (in particular I like SRAM
XO gripshifters and derailleurs, as they offer fast, precise, flawless
shifting when you need it in situations where you can ill-afford to be
crunching in
On Monday, September 12, 2011 10:34:05 AM UTC-5, Steve D. wrote:
http://db.tt/Y01RjLd - Rackaleur, Baggins, and Irish
I like that rackaleur solution for you Hobo bag. It's very elegant.
Higher praise than it deserves. But appreciated. It does work,
though, exactly as you might hope; the
Patrick:
I also have read that book, and thoroughly enjoyed the author's
points. It was pointed out to me by someone else who'd read the book
that he uses two styles, one quite academic (passages I had to re-
read) and the other more workingman. It's not obtrusive and I didn't
notice the shifts
Re: 7 speed: no, I was being facetious. Good luck on the bracket;
let's see the result.
On Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 9:30 AM, Thomas Lynn Skean
thomaslynnsk...@comcast.net wrote:
On Monday, September 12, 2011 7:04:21 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
But only 7 speed cassettes.
Is that because
Funny how this came up, i was riding this weekend (on the quickbeam so
maybe it was more noticeable) and was thinking about how loud index
shifting was on the go-fast riders around me. As i don't have any
bikes with index shifting anymore i had forgetten how loud it is when
you shift down.
As
I use Silver downtube on my Jamis Aurora and Silver barend on my Sam
Hillborne and I got to say if I was being honest with myself, I don't know
if I will ever really go back to index shifters. Maybe on a mountainbike
because the quick precise shifting may be more helpful with the quickness of
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 11:46 -0700, JLa wrote:
I read from Paul's web site that the Thumbies have 26mm clamp size and
fit standard stem-clamp sleeves. But in the picture at rivbike.com
they are mounted on Nitto bars that should be 24mm diameter:
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 11:36 -0700, JLa wrote:
By the way, is it possible to convert Dia Compe bar end shifters to
down tube shifters?
The Dia Compe bar end shifter is in fact the shifter Sun Tour sold as
the Sprint downtube lever mounted on Shimano pattern bar end shifter
pods. However, if
Thanks for all the replys.
My bike is quite new and the shifting is fine other than the largest
cogs. If the problem was with derailleur hanger, would it affect all
the gears?
If forgot to say that the cassette is 9 speed (11-34).
Grant Petersen's advice on the Shifting page on rivbike.com
on 8/18/10 8:17 AM, JLa at juhani.lait...@gmail.com wrote:
Is there anyone else using the ³Silver Shifters² with Shimano 9 speed
11-34. I¹m wondering if it¹s really so that they don¹t work together
well - or is it just about the technique?
The main challanges with 9 speed gearing and friction
I use 8-speed on all the Rivendells. Silver shifters with an 8speed
SRAM 11-32 cassette. I use a normal rise rear derailleur, and I can
absolutely shove it from the second-largest to the largest cog under
load silently. Shifting to a smaller cog is already lightly loaded,
because I'm shifting
I would also recommend going 8 cog on the back. I found 9 too touchy with
my Silvers. 8's easy.
Brian
On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 9:34 AM, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
I use 8-speed on all the Rivendells. Silver shifters with an 8speed
SRAM 11-32 cassette. I use a normal rise rear
On Wed, 2010-08-18 at 09:48 -0700, Brian Hanson wrote:
I would also recommend going 8 cog on the back. I found 9 too touchy
with my Silvers. 8's easy.
I wasn't successful with 8, but found 7 easy.
Actually, I can't see the point of 8. In the first place, the selection
of available
On Wed, Aug 18, 2010 at 12:56 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
I wasn't successful with 8, but found 7 easy.
Actually, I can't see the point of 8. In the first place, the selection
of available cassettes in 8 has dwindled to the point there isn't one
I'd be interested in, other
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