I'm guessing this is a carbureted car? Or is it a Throttle Body
Injected car?
I think triggering a relay off the ignition wire would be more reliable.
Best Regards,
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of MaryAnn Young
Sent: Thursday,
Yep.
My Sundance actually bottoms the axle out on hard right hand turns
because of the POS bent K-frame.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 9:24 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: SD K
T-top cars received the normal 3-point belts as the T-tops removed the upper
window frames. The hardtop cars received the annoying, door hinge killing,
split 3-point belts.
Stefan Mullikin
Mullikin Racing
http://www.mullikin-racing.com -- Coming soon: L-body shift linkage and
520/555
Wow, I'm truly sorry to hear that. He is one of the last connections to
the Shelby Enterprises our cars have and just one hell of a nice guy.
He will be missed.
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
PNW-SDAC Founding Member
http://www.pnw-sdac.org
1980 Fiat X-1/9
1984 Dodge Rampage 2.2
1987 Plymouth
http://www.sdac.org
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 5:47 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: SD SDAC 15 When and where
who has the info on sdac 15?? when is is. and where will it be held
Keep in mind that GLH parts are extremely flexible and relatively light
weight, so I think that you shouldn't nee much for shipping materials
except a simple box and some bubble wrap.
Greyhound has a decent freight service. UPS, FedEx, USPS and DHL all
have size and weight limits.
Stefan
I've done the power flush of the steering fluid trick and it sometimes
helps.
Very carefully, jack the car up and disconnect the drain line from the
rack and put the end in a bucket or drain pan. Place another line from
the rack's return line into the bucket (cuts down on the mess)
Put the car
Yep, that's normal for a car with some mileage under its belt.
Electrical gremlins are one of the more common killers of these cars,
that and blown head gaskets with rusting being the third.
Go get some pipe cleaners, a toothbrush, electrical contact cleaner and
some dielctric grease. With the
Maybe vent the hood behind the radiator to give the air a place to go
instead of into the front the engine block?
Just get an early Daytona hood vent and place it between the radiator
and the engine. Install it such that the vanes are pointed towards the
rear of the car.
Stefan
-Original
Yep, they are notorious for getting so hot on the turbo cars that the
solder melts out of them. Make doubly sure you get a turbo car starter
and insulate it from the turbo when you install the replacement starter.
Also, if the wiring was not installed properly it could short to ground.
The newer
First, look up the codes here: http://minimopar.net Repair whatever is
broken sensor wise.
Second, pull the valve cover and remove two bolts holding the baffle in
place inside the valve cover. Remove all of the old oil and sealant and
reseal the baffle to the valve cover. Make sure to put
Location?
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jeff Mulz
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 12:23 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: SD FS-G Body Subframe, complete
I got a G body sub-frame complete with engine and trany still attached.
Engine
That was the Birthday Car It was an 88 Shadow/Sundance Turbo that
built from prototype and pre-production parts for Carroll Shelby by his
workers and presented to him on his birthday in 1988 (there was an
Autoweek article about him and the car in 88). It isn't really an 88
CSX-T. More like an
The governor and/or valve body is plugged up with clutch material. Drop
the pan, pull the governor and the valve body and clean them, change the
fluid, and the filter.
It would be nice if there was a way to make the pan deeper and baffle it
to keep the clutch material away from the governor and
You don't need to run camber plates to run adjustable coil-overs.
Cindy's kit drops right in place. Most of the other setups can be
easily adapted. Worst case, fire up http://www.emachineshop.com and
design some camber plates that drop into place. Not that hard to do.
What tires and wheels are
Well, if you don't find any fuel rails. There was a posting someplace
about modifying an early T1 rail to work. It also supposedly flowed
more fuel.
Also, check with the standard set of vendors, they may have a NOS unit
or a better replacement (I know TurbosUnleashed does)
Strut tower brace is
Hmm, I've heard of both being used, but I've only ever seen the solid
rubber dogbone on all of my cars (which includes every single year of
the Shelby Charger 83-87 and the GLH 84-86) If your car was converted
to use an A-520/555/523/568 then you'd probably have the strut style
mount, but you'd
Turbo car Power modules are the same from 85-87. However the problem is
likely the Mopar Performance Logic Module (which is the year specific
part of the electronics) A lot of them were built on remanufactured
cores that were replaced under warranty.
I would try putting the stock logic module
A little more information would help. What is the make, model and year
of your car? What mods, if any, are you running? Do you have access to
a compressed air source to pressurize the hoses with to listen for
leaks?
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL
back out the
pressure. you obvioulsy loose lots of boost also.
Jim
Mullikin, Stefan P [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
A little more information would help. What is the make, model and year
of your car? What mods, if any, are you running? Do you have access to a
compressed air source to pressurize the hoses
Depends, are you swapping to rear discs or staying with drums? The
drums will work, provided they are the same diameter and the same lug
count then you're fine. If they are discs, make sure you get all of the
hardware to perform the swap.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL
Just buy the braided stainless steel lines from FWDPerformance.com.
Better pedal feel and they are readily available :)
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, May 03, 2005 6:48 PM
To: SDML
Subject: SD Big
The FSM's (Factory Service Manuals) or a Chilton/Haynes manual.
What do you need to know specifically?
What kind of shop equipment do you have? Cherry picker? Jack? Tools?
Do you have any help available near you?
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL
Sounds like an interesting deal.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/code11.html
The ASD relay is located in a different spot on the minivan's Just
can't think of where at the moment.
Sounds like the hall effect, like I thought it was when I first saw the
ad. Be sure to confirm the wiring
Okay, so are you're getting spark from the coil wire or the plug wires?
Are the plugs wet?
Have someone crank the motor over while you watch the rotor in the
distributor and the timing belt turn. No turning = stripped timing
belt.
Pull the plugs and crank the motor over to TDC (the mark on the
25, 2005 4:12 PM
To: Shelby Dodge
Subject: Fw: SD Re: Crank no start
Can I take a TPS off of an 87 and try it?
Thanks...Tim
- Original Message -
From: Mullikin, Stefan P [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Will Martin [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, April 25, 2005
Just plug the lines to the BOV off and run the car. A pipe plug and a
short piece of 1 heater hose will take care of the nipple on the charge
hose to the throttle body/intercooler. Or take the hose and BOV off the
car, plug the end, install a schraeder valve into the pipe plug and use
a bicycle
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/code53.html
This should help ya out.
Keep in mind that the MP computers are built off of remanufactured
computers so there could be issues that are missed on the assembly line.
I would go with a reprogrammed computer from one of the T-D specific
vendors.
To allow for proper torque by helping to spread the load and to allow
the bolts to torque to the proper spec by creating a bit of a bearing
surface for them to ride on. If you've torqued a bunch of these heads
using parts store bolts and stock bolts and compare that feeling to the
one you'll get
The wiring perhaps? They get abused over the years with all of the hot
air from the radiator hitting them. Standard connector with pigtails
available at many parts stores.
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
Co-Founder
PNW-SDAC
http://www.pnw-sdac.org
1980 Fiat X-1/9
1984 Dodge Rampage 2.2
1987 Dodge
3 pipe and mandrel bent bends (FWDPerformance and ForwardMotion carry
them I believe). A generic high-flow cat (Catco, carsound, etc) and a
dynomax straight through bullet race muffler.
A 3 swingvalve and downpipe from turbosunleashed.com will help finish
out the setup, just be careful around
Are you sure your boost gauge is accurate? The stock gauges are
notoriously inaccurate (even some of the aftermarket units are this
way). If so, then check all the turbo lines for leaks and also check
the bypass valve in the airbox as they will blow off the seat at about
12 psi.
BTW, There is
http://www.american-stitches.com
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mullikin, Stefan
P
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 5:43 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Steve Anders; shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com
Subject: RE: SD RE: steering Wheel restoration
Texas
Am-stitches.com is one of them off-hand. Mr. Salamone might have an
idea on one since he didn't seem to impressed by am-stitches material
(the work was good, the material wasn't an exact match, but close if I
recall)
Hope this helps,
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Replace the headlight switch.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian R. Downard
Sr.
Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 5:48 PM
To: shelby-dodge@sdml.org
Subject: SD Electrical Problem..
Hello everyone. It's me again. I have the problem
Well a transaxle is merely a transmission that has the differential
included in it. Internally there really isn't much difference between
the two and they are typically used to describe the same item. Its just
the part that transfers the power of the engine to the drive wheels and
provides gear
It can be if your chassis is a little tweaked or the K-frame isn't quite
centered (the holes are slotted slightly) or the control arm bushings
are worn a little. Basically, as long as the axles are even and the car
doesn't do anything weird while driving it, I wouldn't worry about it
too much.
They can only do what their customers want. If they want little to no
FWD stuff, then that's what they'll get. Eventually this may change,
for now I just stick to Grassroots Motorsports, they are just into weird
cars that can go fast and they give us some respect.
Stefan
-Original
Me thinks you've been watching Star Wars a bit too much... Oh yes, much
too much :)
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marc Medina
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2005 10:04 AM
To: shelby-dodge@sdml.org
Subject: Re: SD RE: mopar muscle
If
Yes it will fit. No, you'll need new axles (87 and newer autos = bigger
inboard splines, wider diff housings). You can use 1990 Omni
w/automatic axles or modified minivan axles (cut and rewelded 1
shorter) Many use two driver's side axles with a standard K-based
car/van intermediate shaft, this
About the same give or take a few MPG. My 3100lb 5-speed Daytona gets
about 30 on the highway, 18 in traffic. My old Lancer ES turbo/auto was
a little worse due to the parasitic losses and lack of advantageous
gearing of the 3-speed. Same goes for my Sundance Turbo/auto.
Some quick tips for
, but around town was so-so.
- Original Message -
From: Mullikin, Stefan P [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mike Fisher [EMAIL PROTECTED]; shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 1:21 PM
Subject: RE: SD 1987 Shelby Lancer Question
About the same give or take a few MPG. My 3100lb 5
Of course, but you really don't gain much. The rear discs on a FWD
street car are really for show, not go. The exception of course is when
you actually use an adjustable proportioning valve along with a dual
master cylinder to get the brake bias a little more balanced (careful as
it can make the
Try the local parts places.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Fisher
Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 1:02 PM
To: shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com
Subject: SD 6 Bolt Flexplate
Does anyone have a 6 Bolt flexplate to sell me? I need one asap.
The immediate expense is for the rebuilt turbo, figure about $350 give
or take. Contact some of the usual vendors about rebuilt turbos and
options.
You will probably need a headgasket set, probably head bolts as well,
exhaust flange bolts and turbo oil and water lines. This is assuming
there
Get a scan tool and monitor the knock sensor. The A/F will help you
quantify any changes made and to back up the knock sensor.
The formula for calculating static compression ratio is available
online.
Good luck,
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
Co-Founder
PNW-SDAC
http://www.pnw-sdac.org
1980 Fiat
Wouldn't the door tag be enough? The fact that it says Manufactured by
Shelby Automobiles, Whittier, CA might be a clue to her.
She's going off the VIN decode. Which of course is a Chrysler VIN the
main reason we get hassled for updating titles on these cars. That and
the fact that most were
Yep, that will work.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Fisher
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 6:07 PM
To: Shelby Dodge
Subject: SD Clutch Question
What do you guys think about this clutch setup? Why wouldnt it work
with my 85 Shelby
Are you sure it was a T2 and not just a late T1? The late T1's used the
same intakes a T2, just weren't painted)
Of course the 523 isn't right either, but then those might have been
swapped in.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
Mobil 1 10W30 and a Purolator or Wix Ford Mustang filter. Change every
3000miles.
Check out the oil filter study: http://minimopar.net
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 3:48 PM
To:
It will be on the tag on the core support. Its just standard 1987 Dodge
Shadow black.
The silver should be standard silver from the same time period as well.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 09,
Realistically, you want to take it off the block as decking the head
makes it more prone to warp and eat headgaskets.
The HO 2.2's used in the early Shelby Chargers and GLH's were decked
.030 for a one point increase. There are relatively simple formula's
available online to figure out
http://www.thedodgegarage.com ---please read
http://minimopar.net --- please read
To answer your question (that's in the SDML archives as well) Look for
1989 and later turbo cars. Be careful that they are timed properly. If
you don't have a turbo car, there are roller cams for the TBI cars,
Hmm, I've heard of a lot of people running that gasket and not having
problems at 20+ psi.
http://www.thedodgegarage.com --- Gary, Gus and others have ran them
with great success.
EGT numbers really depend on where in the manifold the probe(s) are
installed and what the configuration of the car
Yep, that's basically how I did the Daytona seats in my Rampage. Two
strips of flat 1/8 steel from Home Depot. One set of holes drilled in
the plates to mate up to the L-body tracks and another set drilled in
the plates to mate to the Daytona seat bottoms. Works great so far
TTYL,
Stefan
Welcome to the fast cars lol... j/k
If its coming from near the front of the motor, it could be a bad
hydraulic lifter. If the car isn't driven very often the oil will bleed
out of these and it can take a while for them to pump back up (if at
all). They are relatively cheap to replace
If its
The car is relatively safe, its not going to blow up on you, but with it
pinging the bottom end is taking a heck of a beating and you will
shorten the life of the bearings.
Is the oil in the inlet hoses for the throttle body/turbo? Remove the
throttle body and look in the turbo inlet, is there
Check em out, http://www.pnw-sdac.org/tech.htm
I'm still working on the Omni Shift linkage and Daytona rear chassis
brace pages (need more pictures of the actual build process) I'll also
expand the rear chassis brace pages to include H, P and L bodies since
that's what I've got to work with.
Injectors are probably leaking.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Travis Smith
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2005 6:03 AM
To: shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com
Subject: SD Dieseling Problem
I have a 92 Iroc 2.5L turbo1. I run the car for over 5
Go up top and pull the airbox, hoses, battery terminals, upper starter
nut and bolt. Disconnect the transaxle ground, and speed sensor wiring
(the starter wiring harness goes out with the starter, trust me its
easier)
Pull the passenger side axle/intermediate shaft. (pop the axle nut,
pull the
Brian, that was a Daytona cable on Anna's car.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Schulteis
Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2005 8:48 PM
To: Mike Fisher
Cc: sdml
Subject: Re: SDWhich Throttle cable to use?
I used a Daytona cable on my '83
32 or 34mm I believe for the 6 wheels. The 6.5 wheels are a little
more, like 38mm.
All positive offset of course.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2005 10:13 AM
To:
Well, yeah but since when has been going faster not cost money?
A 2.5 swing valve is a performance upgrade, just like a 3 swing valve
is a performance upgrade.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Schulteis
Sent: Thursday,
The 86 GLH-S had an EGR (it plumbed into the bottom of the 2-piece
intake just behind the throttle body with the other end connected to the
outlet of the turbo). The rest of the T2 cars I've seen have not had
EGR. On the T1 car I'm converting, I'm just blocking off the ports and
running a later
Well, I'd suggest FWDPerformance, but the Minivan 911 pads didn't fit
my minivan calipers. So close, yet so far away. Decided I'll save them
and file them to fit after I get the milling machine running again.
Your mileage may vary of course.
I can say that the braided stainless steel lines fit
To: Mullikin, Stefan P; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com
Subject: RE: SD New Kid On The Block
Why don't I hear more about those D-Valves anymore? Refresh my own
memory as to the particulars.. I *think* it was some kind of secondary
air intake when not in boost... Using a vacuum source off
It just modifies the signal for the Coolant Temp Sensor, therefore
adjusting the mixture slightly. Realistically the Ricers use them to
increase the fuel they consume just to make their cars look tough or
something. The guys running real turbos use adjustable regulators and
reprogrammed
The aluminum alloy reacts with AIR, not light. Depending on the alloy
used, the oxidation may be different. Obviously when Chrysler went to
the later style one-piece seal valve covers they changed the molds and
perhaps the alloy of aluminum used. They obviously changed the coating
used on the
There's one in MN... $1500 (its red though) Check out the $2005
Classifieds section on the Grassroots Messageboard
(http://www.grmotorsports.com/board)
Good luck on the search!
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
Co-Founder
PNW-SDAC
http://www.pnw-sdac.org
1980 Fiat X-1/9
1984 Dodge Rampage 2.2
1987
LOL, well it has been done before... How much of the head did you get?
Cams, lifters, followers, intake, exhaust, valve covers.
The head will bolt on, but you'd lose the distributor (T3's use
distributor less ignition) The timing belt stuff is different, etc.
You'd definitely need to have a
Yep, the difference is that the black painted ones received a charge
temp sensor (a simple drill and tap job to fix that) The silver painted
(T1) units have the boss for the CTS.
Hope this helps,
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
Co-Founder
PNW-SDAC
http://www.pnw-sdac.org
1980 Fiat X-1/9
1984 Dodge
The boots on the cables are split/broken/missing and allowing water in
which freezes. Eventually muscle-ing the shifter will break a cable or
a cable end. I think if you check out some of the bike or boater shops
you might find a suitable replacement cable seal The tricky part will
be getting
Ah the old racing-only parts deal has bitten you in the butt a little?
LOL
I may have a solution for ya, a friend mounted a Shadow speedo in his
Rampage. Most of the Sundance/Shadows used a cable driven speedometer
but I think the 89 and later models use electronic speedometers so that
should
the requisite room.
Good luck,
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Ashe
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 10:13 AM
To: Mullikin, Stefan P; SDML
Subject: RE: SD Header/HybridTurbo/SpeedoFitting/L-Body
Yeah, I'm sure I could go with a different
Probably around a couple hundred each, if they have them. For that much
I'd use marine push-pull cables and adapt them to fit.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 24, 2005 4:00 PM
To: [EMAIL
Its meant to run on a stock motor. To use bigger injectors you'd need a
custom calibrated computer or an adjustable gain fuel pressure
regulator.
Your local dealer might be able to print out the bulkhead schematics for
you. Or perhaps your local library has copies of the FSM's or the
To add to this, 804s were out of spec stock T2 injectors that Mopar
packaged up and sold. So, if you buy 804's they may or may not be stock
injectors. The only way to know for sure is to have the injectors
flowed.
Also, the Shelby Stage II computers were the only ones certified for
street use
Where ya at?
I'm selling my 87 for about $500, the blocks cracked but it still runs.
I'm in Portland, OR
There's one on the Grassroots Messageboard for $1500, its in Michigan.
http://grmotorsports.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=5664
Also Ebay has some occasionally along with turbododge.com
Good
Mike Marra I believe.
I believe either FWD Performance or Turbos Unleashed also sell similar
items.
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
Co-Founder
PNW-SDAC
http://www.pnw-sdac.org
1980 Fiat X-1/9
1984 Dodge Rampage 2.2
1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z
1987 Shelby CSX #106
1988 Shelby CSX-T #3
Bare aluminum does corrode, much like copper or steel the metal reacts
with elements in the air (moisture, bacteria and other pollutants) so
aluminum ends up with a fine white powdery covering. Using metal polish
regularly will help eliminate or minimize this as would using clear
coating,
LOL, she's saggin a bit there Cap' heh, dude needs a transaxle mount...
Nevertheless, its an interesting thread for the history buffs.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ralph Scott
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 3:44 PM
To: SDML Post
:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2005 9:11 AM
To: Mullikin, Stefan P; shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com
Subject: RE: SD TII head, any difference?
How hard (if realistically possible at all) is it to have a
non-crossdrilled head crossdrilled? If memory serves, my block is
x-drilled but the head
Yep, it should. Though you'd need to swap the wastegate actuator out as
well as replace the gasket for the compressor housing. Both easily
obtained from a Garret turbo dealer.
Hope this helps,
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
Co-Founder
PNW-SDAC
http://www.pnw-sdac.org
1980 Fiat X-1/9
1984 Dodge
like csx's
csx-t's shadows turbo z's or anything like that but ill keep suggestions
open as long as its a car someone has for me to really consider.
thanks guys
adam
Mullikin, Stefan P [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Daytona's also tend to be a little better in the comfort department
versus the L-body
Heh, good luck stripping those wheels. I believe there was a post in the
archives about the pain and agony one person went through to strip the
finish off just one wheel. Basically I believe they were powdercoated
from the factory or at least the finish is similar in toughness
(probably used due
Cool. Thanks for the info...
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kevin M.
Schellenberg
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 3:41 PM
Cc: shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com
Subject: Re: SD 16 CS Pumper cleanup choices, need advice
Mullikin, Stefan P wrote
Bryce,
Sounds a lot like my current 87 Shelby Z. Only the block is cracked in
mine.
I'll forward it to the local turbo-dodge club mailing list. If you're
in the area, come join the fun online :)
Here's the link to the mailing list. There's probably 3 or 4 people in
the Seattle area near ya.
Any computer codes? It could be an ignition issue or a problem with the
throttle position sensor.
It is of course extremely easy to mistime the cams on these engines
(even when the engines are out of the car) So I would of course double
and triple check that while you're at it (make sure the
for holding off on trying this. Has anybody put 1 kms or
so on a hybrid engine yet? My car is a daily driver, and I want it to
stay that way, hence I may end up sticking with the stock 8 valver.
Sean B
- Original Message -
From: Mullikin, Stefan P [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Sean B. [EMAIL
Well if you need parts to sweeten the deal I'll offer up my 87 Shelby Z
down in Portland ;)
I'll forward your message to the PNW-SDAC group to see if anyone local
is interested. (BTW, this makes the third Shelby Z that's come up for
sale in the past few weeks)
Good luck with the job and the
There was one on Ebaymotors not too long ago Perhaps its still
available?
Or you could just get a standard Omni grill and paint the chrome
semi-gloss black.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bob Ashe
Sent: Friday, December 17,
Check out the Super60 Omni article (The little Omni that could). They
actually have a part number for the piece you need (however its
discontinued and probably unavailable)
Some others have used a longer bolt and stiffer front mount and gone on
down the road.
I've got a bracket built that will
What oil filter are you running? (Ford V-8 or Dodge V-10/V-8 filters
are preferred, also stay away from Fram, they are junk)
Do you have the anti-drainback valve installed in the block, is there
one in the oil filter? Should be a spring loaded ball bearing on the
oil filter inlet fitting on the
So why are you changing all of this stuff on a TIII block? I would
think you'd just change the head and possibly the lower crank pulley to
go with it. If its that big an issue, why not find a more common,
common block and use it instead? Just wondering as there may be someone
with a TIII car
Oh you mean like The Wraith ???
Yeah guess what, it didn't work sarcasm
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
Co-Founder
PNW-SDAC
http://www.pnw-sdac.org
1980 Fiat X-1/9
1984 Dodge Rampage 2.2
1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z
1987 Shelby CSX #106
1988 Shelby CSX-T #3
-Original Message-
Yep, its 10psi per 1000rpm. What weight oil are you running? What oil
pressure relief spring are you running? Do you have the oil restrictor
in the block? Try reducing the amount of oil going into the oil feed
for the turbo. I think a washer or perhaps a drilled out jet threaded
into the
http://minimopar.net
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Neil E. Amrhein
Sent: Monday, December 06, 2004 8:51 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: SD 85-87 power module pin-out?
List,
Does anyone have a resource showing what each of the
Probably the distributor pickup. Check your computer codes (cycle the
key on off three times and stop at on. The check engine or power loss
lamp will blink out the codes.) http://minimopar.net will have
descriptions of the codes and some basic troubleshooting to work
through.
Good luck,
Stefan
Yep I would, especially since they are the same as 87 CSX grills. Once
thing I would suggest when looking for market, drop a line in the SDAC
newsletter to gather up those folks who not Internet-aware.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf
Are the steering rack mounting bolts tight?
BTW, wide tires will hunt and follow grooves in the road to a certain
extent.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marc Medina
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2004 9:54 AM
To: SDML
Subject: SD
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