To use the SRT4 or Neon shifter, you'd need to use a later style
transaxle (A523 or A568) which is essentially the same transaxle
internally. Which requires new, shorter axles with different splines.
A new mount welded to the K-frame. Holes drilled in the floor board to
run the shifter cables.
There was a post about a guy who was selling the left over inventory he
received from Cars and Concepts (they did the T-Top conversions for
Chrysler, Ford and GM). Check the archives and you'll probably find it.
If not, I'll see if I can find it.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL
Replace the sender and the switch. They fail quite regularly.
The restrictor only limits the volume of oil to the head.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of smartel
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 7:13 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yep, however check the grounds on the passenger engine mount and from
the fuel rail to the firewall. If this is missing, damaged or just
plain old and not conducting well.
http://minimopar.net has some great troubleshooting documentation on the
various troublecodes. It also has vacuum line
And/or make sure you have a good battery that's charged.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Garret Werstiuk
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 2:50 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: SD GLHS No crank
Sand off the brass
The drilled rotors won't help you. They reduce the surface area of the
rotors, less surface area for the brake pads to grab onto and most
drilled rotors will develop stress cracks around the drilled holes. So
you'll spend lots of money for potentially less braking performance and
shorter
Huh? Why would you want those big heavy finned drums? The Rampage
barely uses the stock 200mm drums as it is. 220mm is overkill (though
it helps retain some balance of the system)
I don't believe anyone has used those drums on a passenger car before.
I used turbo car 220mm drums on mine, but
T03 I believe. The Mitsu is a TE04H
Its on Gary Donovan's website. http://www.thedodgegarage.com
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of larry ybarra
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2005 4:42 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: SD turbo
I
Ah, that's the difference you've removed the rear brake limiting valve.
Also given the amount of work the fronts do, I would hope it would stop
from 135. Try doing this repeatedly lap after lap with 20 of your other
friends doing the same thing inches away from you and you get quite a
bit more
Exactly. From my experience, the SLH-1 or 2 brake upgrade on a stock
Rampage is overkill for the street. The minivan fronts don't get warm
enough to actually reach operating temperature so the braking always
feels pretty ineffective. This could be helped by changing pad
compound, but that's a
Pull the valve cover and reseal the baffle to the valve cover. If that
doesn't work, fix your engine as you've got blowby. More inportantly,
keep your foot off the gas and out of the boost until the engine warms
up fully.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL
Codes? http://minimopar.net can be very helpful.
Typically this issue comes about because the ASD relay hasn't turned on.
This can occur because the relay has failed, the computer that triggers
the relay has failed (internal circuitry issue, etc) or the computer
isn't receiving the proper signal
http://minimopar.net
Has some troubleshooting info and better explanations for the codes.
Sounds like a ground issue with the sensor grounds for the computer.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike and Helen
Sent: Wednesday,
Yep, for a CS that should be correct. The Pop-up headlights stayed
through 91 and the CS cars never received the chin spoiler like the ES
and Shelby models did.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday,
Check the codes with a scanner, have the dealer check the firmware and
update if needed. Past that make sure you're running the proper fluid
and that all of the electrical connections are good, especially the
grounds.
Best Regards,
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
PNW-SDAC
http://www.pnw-sdac.org
A great historical reference section can be found at the following site:
http://www.xmission.com/~dempsey
There were no Shelby manufactured or numbered Daytonas ever built. Only
the 86 GLH-S (Omni), 87 GLH-s (Charger), 87 CSX (Shadow), 87 Shelby
Lancer, 88 CSX-T (Shadow), 89 CSX-VNT (Shadow) 89
Here's the how-to that I wrote.
http://www.pnw-sdac.org/HowTo/Shiftlinkage/shiftlinkage.htm
Some other tech articles:
http://www.pnw-sdac.org/tech.htm
I also do the conversions for $50.
Good luck!
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
Co-Founder
PNW-SDAC
http://www.pnw-sdac.org
1980 Fiat X-1/9
1984
Yep, that's why I use both on my cars. Glad you were able to get yours
repaired.
One suggestion for those of you who can't find a Hurst is to make sure
your stock shifter is in good shape. Replace anything that looks worn
or sloppy. Lubricate the joints. Make sure the reverse lockout spring
You can improve the stock linkage with metal rod ends (frequently
referred to as Heim Joints) and bronze bushings. If you can find it,
Hurst used to make a pretty nice replacement shifter with a real reverse
lockout.
Further, running polyurethane motor mounts will help some as well since
the
Have you checked the codes? Does this happen with the A/C or Defrost
turned on? Any other accessories turned on?
More than likely you've got a bad speed distance sensor, sticky AIS
plunger or perhaps a slight vacuum leak someplace. You might try
checking the speed sensor wiring and perhaps
Yeah, the computer varies idle speed and other thing depending on
vehicle speed.
The speed sensor is pretty simple, its just a mechanical switch driven
by a cam that turned by the speedometer gear. There should be eight
pulses per revolution. If you pull one out and hook a meter up to it you
Yep. You might have to modify the rain tray to get it to fit.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Sean B.
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 1:11 PM
To: SDML
Subject: SD two piece intake question
Does anybody know if the 87 glhs came with a
My 87 Sundance had a Code 24 issue for a short time. It would go into
limp-in and if I stopped and turned the car off and on it would
sometimes go away. Sometimes while driving down the road it would come
back and the car would go into limp-in mode where the computer would
ignore any input from
I think its similar to the Momo bolt pattern. I believe I've also seen
a Momo to Grant adapter that will allow you to bolt a Grant wheel or a
Grant extension (for L-bodies) and then a Grant wheel to a Momo or
perhaps a Shelby wheel adapter.
If you have access to a lathe and a piece of steel or
You can buy them from the parts store, they aren't too expensive. Just
ask for one for an 87 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z with the 2.2 Turbo motor.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Darrell -
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 3:37 PM
To:
You'll have to have it recored at a radiator shop. Should be about $250
since it's a custom-ordered core.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Al Curtis
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2005 11:00 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: SD Radiator
The counterweight is just for balancing the weight of the left and right
axles. Supposedly it helps with torque steer. The failure of your boot
and the rattles indicate that perhaps your engine isn't centered perhaps
you're bottoming out the inner joint and may even have broken the
spring.
Even
Yep, the 87 CSX, though they are slightly different than 86 GLH-S units
(reversed spokes and no Shelby cast onto the spoke)
The story goes that the original mold that the ones made for the 86
GLH-S was damaged or lost, so they made a new mold and the spoke
direction changed and they lost the
Pull the front motor mount and rotate the motor forward.
Note: you may need to disconnect the axles, rear motor mount, battery,
fuel lines and some electrical to get enough movement. At that point
you're only a few moments from having the motor out and on the ground
where you can really get to
Steel brake line sees much higher pressures than the fuel system, so as
long as it's the proper diameter, then you should be fine.
For steel tubing, I'd order it online or find a local hydraulic supply
shop.
Rubber line will work provided its properly rated (EFI rated) should be
about $5/foot.
The system will pressurize on its own when you turn on the key.
Releasing the pressure won't effect it after its running, it just makes
it a little harder to start initially. At 55psi of fuel pressure it
doesn't take long to get fuel to the fuel rail.
So, have you checked the codes on the
BTW, there's a guy over on TeamOmni who's circle track racing his
Omni
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2005 1:47 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: (TeamOmni) First Race
Hi Team
Want to thank all who helped with
Dude, relax. You ask for free advice then complain when you don't get
it? Nice.
Never mind that if you had done some research on your own, you'd see
that they might be different
Externally, the racks are the same. Only the L-bodies are different.
The CSX-VNT had the fast ratio firm feel
Not without some adaptation to the bolt pattern of the mounting flange.
The T3 (16-valve DOHC 2.2) uses a more or less standard Garrett bolt
pattern where it meets the exhaust manifold. The T2 turbo uses a
modified version of this.
Sorry,
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
Co-Founder
PNW-SDAC
I built my own. Works great. I have 4 of them now for most of the
spare drivetrains I own.
To start, I bought a padded furniture dolly, then picked a piece of 3/4
plywood (Rampages are great for this kind of project, lol). Cut the
plywood to the width of the dolly/drivetrain and cut it to the
1/8-1/4 is normal after the oil pressure has bleed down on an older
turbo. Be very wary of turbos with lots of end play, that's when
they'll tend to be considered long for this world.
Good luck,
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
Co-Founder
PNW-SDAC
http://www.pnw-sdac.org
1980 Fiat X-1/9
1984 Dodge
The steering racks can also loosen up exacerbating the issues and not
too mention having worn out motor mounts will contribute to the problem
as well.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: Brian Schulteis [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2005 9:57 PM
To: forfree
Cc: [EMAIL
Typically this is indicative of issues with improper tension (too tight
or too loose)
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joe Lanett
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 10:40 AM
To: PosingsCorrect
Subject: SD Re Timing belt problem
Did the rubbing
They were 1/4 and aren't needed on the Polybushings mounts...
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2005 12:45 PM
To: Mullikin Stefan P (EEU7RXX)
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: SD turbo1
On these cars, there were spacer
Welcome to the group! Why don't you tell us a little about yourself,
your cars, etc.
I've been playing with these cars for about 10 years (bought my 87 CSX
when I was 18, then things went downhill from there, LOL) Now I've got
5 cars: 87/88 CSX's, 84 Rampage, 87 Sundance turbo and an 80 Fiat
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/fault/code37-NA.html
Fault Code 37-NA
Synopsis
Notes: For non-turbo engines with automatic transmissions only
Description: Part throttle unlock (PTU) solenoid circuit is open or
shorted
Power loss light: Off
Limp-in mode: None
Possible Causes
Bad connection
Yep, exactly what I said in my posts. Only the grease gun option was
suggested after I suggested just tapping it out through that hole using
a long ratchet extension or round steel stock. The latter is safer
(less stuff flying around out of control)
Be sure to lubricate that when you install it
Read these sites:
http://minimopar.net
http://www.thedodgegarage.com
Then get back to use with any specific questions :)
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
Co-Founder
PNW-SDAC
http://www.pnw-sdac.org
1980 Fiat X-1/9
1984 Dodge Rampage 2.2
1987 Plymouth Sundance Turbo
1987 Shelby CSX #106
1988 Shelby
He doesn't have that. Only the 2.5 common block cars got that.
I would strongly suggest a crank scraper and/or windage tray be
installed along with some sort of baffling in the oil pan. Some simple
baffles are cheap/easy to make and install.
If you look at the top of the oil pan out of the
No, you need the newer style uprights as well. They changed the
location of the hubs in the uprights as well.
-Original Message-
From: Ean Orsel [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 12:18 PM
To: SDML
Subject: SD Control Arms
I have an '87 LeBaron, and put on a '93
Their version of a theft deterrent (of course who would steal any
factory radio?) Obviously it doesn't work all that well if the code is
available all over the place.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, August 03, 2005 12:03 PM
Not really, IMHO A neon guy blew up his 2.4 turbo swap in his car
just by running sticky street tires and driving a bit spirited into some
freeway onramps. The forces todays contemporary tires street can
generate can equal yesterdays race tires. Those same forces can and
will pull the oil
Sorry,
Dashboard, completely removed.
Remove the nuts and lines from the firewall side.
Remove heaterbox.
Go slowly, take breaks when you get frustrated. Lable things when
possible.
Good luck,
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: Joe Goetz [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August
Remove the assembly. Remove the U-joint. Drill hole in the end of the
intermediate shaft. Spray penetrating oil (not WD-40) in the hole. Let
it soak a day or two. If it does not come out, mount the intermediate
shaft in a vice and using a long piece of steel rod (a long 3/8
extension would
Nope, all the flywheels and starters have the same teeth.
Stefan
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2005 8:16 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: SD Starter Question
well gang I got some quality time with my 86 turbo Z this
Yeah, but make sure that you get all the air out of it before you do
that or the air will compress and can cause the axle to blow out of the
intermediate shaft with some force. Plus you'll need a lot grease to
fill the shaft up. I would think a hydraulic pump/fluid would be a
little easier to
Well, I can supply the parts to do it yourself. Or I can do it for ya,
to do that I'd need your parts to modify, $50.
The 520/555 motor mount/shiftlinkage brackets are another $50 and
require metal rod ends on the linkage.
At this point my life is in enough turmoil to say that any new orders
More than likely it has worn piston pins. However it could be a bad rod
bearing. Both are relatively easy to fix if caught in time.
So with that said, I'd keep it numbers matching and use some of the
newer stronger components in your block to increase its longevity.
Forged T2 rods and stock
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