[RBW] Re: ?Appaloosa versus Sam Hillborne

[Ed Carolipio]

I was making a similar choice a couple of months ago and ended up with an 
Appaloosa - having ridden neither and mostly from reading what folks posted 
in this group.

Deciding factors for me were (1) I was never going to use drop bars and (2) 
I'd always have at least a light load, i.e. the front/rear racks don't come 
off. (I don't think the Appa was designed with drop bars in mind.) Options 
the Appa has over the Hillborne (which I haven't taken advantage of but 
influenced my decision) were the ability to haul heavier loads and to run 
55 mm tires.

On the chain stays I can't tell if the length help with stability relative 
to other bikes but I no longer worry about heel strikes even with a smaller 
(51cm) frame.

One final note: the Appa is a blast to ride - spritely when unloaded, super 
stable when loaded.

--Ed 

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[RBW] Re: Only three more mountain mixtes remain....

[Ed Carolipio]

Sitting in a box in the garage as I type this. :) Sadly work and family 
stuff prevents me from building it up for a couple of weeks. I'll try to 
post photos when I do get it built up.

On Friday, February 10, 2017 at 11:45:36 AM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> The 54.5 cm step-thru Rosco Bubbes are down to only three left.  Medium 
> sized folks who want a mountain mixte should get one before they are gone. 
>  Look at all the tall folks complaining that the big mountain mixtes sold 
> out so fast.  You medium sized folks don't want to feel that regret.  
>
> Bill 'kinda-tempted-to-get-a-mountain-mixte' Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross bar slipping

[Ed Carolipio]

I had a similar issue with a 26.0 stem + shim. I followed what others have 
suggested (greased the stem bolt thread and applied a hefty amount of 
torque to tighten). I do suggest getting the adjustment correct before 
doing that as super torquing bolts tends to stress them, and consider 
investing in a spare replacement bolt or two in case your torquing gets too 
enthusiastic. I also cleaned off the bar/stem contact surface and mated it 
up *without* any grease or lube or friction paste, per suggestions from 
another thread. It's been a couple of months and I haven't experienced 
slippage even when standing to pedal and after adjusting bar angle a couple 
of times. *crosses fingers*

--Ed

On Tuesday, February 28, 2017 at 3:33:48 PM UTC-8, CMR wrote:
>
> Love my albatross bars with a threadless 4-bolt stem, but having issues 
> with them slipping on my 25.4 130mm Nitto techomic stem, nothing funny. 
> They will slip down a bit on my single speed when standing on the cranks 
> starting from a stop light. Nothing dangerous, but annoying and always a 
> surprise.
>
> Friction paste? New bars? Keep on riding? Any one else have the issue?
>
> Thanks!
> Chris
> Oakland, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Appaloosa sizing

[Ed Carolipio]

I just built up a 51cm Appaloosa - my first Rivendell, and my first post! - 
and I'm 5'6", 79cm PBH. I'm running it with the Albatross bars on a 100mm 
Uno quill stem and a B17 saddle. I prefer a position halfway between riding 
on the hoods and flat butt cruiser style, which on the Appa I get to with 
the (short, height wise) Uno maxed out, the saddle set all the way back on 
the stock seatpost, and literally a fistful of seatpost showing above the 
frame. The fit this way for me feels similar to your experience with the 
52cm LHT, but with just a wee bit more margin.

I can't tell if your concern on the TT length of the 46cm Appa is being too 
cramped or too far in terms of reach. I'll assume you're worried about the 
latter and why you're asking about a (seemingly) size down relative to 
bikes you own. Given that, plus my experience with fit and how the 
Choco-moose has more sweep back than the Alba, I'd guess the TT won't be a 
problem. If the Choco-moose doesn't work out, I'm pretty sure you'll easily 
find a handlebar/stem combo to dial in your fit.

And of course, I heartily recommend you get one.


--Ed





On Thursday, November 17, 2016 at 6:35:54 AM UTC-8, se...@austin.utexas.edu 
wrote:
>
> Hello Rivendellians.
>
> This question is primarily directed at those of you who have a Master's in 
> Rivendell geometry. I am considering pulling the trigger on an Appaloosa 
> (sorry, can't stand the "joe" part). I had a brief e-mail exchange with 
> Roman and he suggested the 46cm for my size (5'5" ish, PBH 78cm). I am 
> looking over lost of geometry charts as I never get to see many Rivs in the 
> wild here in Austin and certainly not ones in my size. 
>
> I currently ride a 51cm Soma San Marcos with the inverted albatross bars 
> set up very high (quill maxed out) and a 52cm Surly LHT with a mighty long 
> steerer tube and Jones bars one a very short stem. The 52cm LHT is pretty 
> much at my maximum as far as sizing and standover, but allows me to get 
> those bars up high. I have neck issues and need handlebars above saddle 
> height and with good backsweep (gave up on drops long ago).
>
> The 46cm Appa seems fairly inline geometry-wise with my San Marcos and 
> LHT, but I never can fully tell with reach, stack, etc.Also, I need to 
> ensure I can handle the length of top tubes (which eff tt seems fine on the 
> charts).
>
> Any advice or ideas out there? I love the design of the Choco-Moose on the 
> Appaloosa and think it would provide enough backsweep, but again, I am just 
> working from pictures and geo charts. Any advice on sizing or experiences 
> with the Appaloosa would be much appreciated.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sean
> ATX 
>

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[RBW] Re: Anything unusual needed for an Appaloosa build?

[Ed Carolipio]

You're welcome ... but you can thank me (and the group) better by posting 
pictures once you've got it built up. :)

On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 4:14:30 PM UTC-7, Bob Lovejoy wrote:
>
> Thanks Ed, much appreciated.  When I lived in Denver, finding M4/M5/M6 
> bolts, especially stainless, were fairly easy to find.  That is not 
> necessarily true now that I live in a smaller midwest town.  I thought the 
> other day that my bike building days will end, not when I run out of parts, 
> but when I run out of bolts, screws and spacers!
>
> I think the Appaloosa will start off without fenders, with the idea of 
> exploring local dirt and gravel roads, but there is more rain here than in 
> Colorado so fenders may come later.  Part of that answer will be decided by 
> what size tires feel right on the bike.
>
> Thanks for the help and the experience with the mount points.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, March 22, 2017 at 4:51:01 PM UTC-5, Ed Carolipio wrote:
>>
>> For a canti build, someone mentioned the hangers already but I found I 
>> needed to adjust the headset spacers (1" silver, 2.5mm or 5mm thick, having 
>> a handful is nice) to accommodate the front hanger since I ran out of fork 
>> using the spacer included with the frame. I also snapped the seat post bolt 
>> troubleshooting slippage so I recommend having some spare M6x25mm bolts 
>> (20mm may be long enough) with matching lock nuts handy.
>>
>> There are three potential mount points for the rear rack: two are M6 (as 
>> others have pointed out), with the third, rearmost one as M5. Most folks 
>> run a fender on the M5 mount, but I won't judge you if you rebel against 
>> convention. Of the two M6 mount points, if you choose the dropout one, I 
>> suggest getting in the fenders in at the same time: the two mount points 
>> are close enough that there may be minor gymnastics involved to get all of 
>> that to work together. I opted for the seat stay mount, and that has worked 
>> well for me and my commuter bags/panniers plus no issues with heel strike.
>>
>> Note that "thick washer/spacer" (I think they're 2.5mm) which Riv sells 
>> are for M5 bolts, so I couldn't use them to space out the rear rack whilst 
>> opting for the M6 mounts.
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Advice on Choosing a New Rivendell Appaloosa, Hillborne or Clem

[Ed Carolipio]

Agree on this list. I own an Appa and I'd recommend that over the Clem if 
that doesn't break your budget and you don't see singletrack in your 
future. I don't think it's overkill for what you want to do, and covers 
such a broad range of riding that it can adapt well to what you've listed.

--Ed


On Thursday, March 23, 2017 at 9:13:53 AM UTC-7, Philip Kim wrote:
>
> if you carry a lot of weight and ride more bumpy roads i would go clem
>
> if you carry a lot of weight and ride smooth single track, pavement, or 
> dirt roads, i would go appaloosa
>
> if you carry stuff on your commute that is able to fit in a basket, i 
> would get the sam.
>
> if you're going to ride upright then get a clem or appaloosa, if youre 
> going drop bars then get the sam
>
> I used to have a sam, but upright bars were cramped, my appaloosa should 
> be coming in soon.
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, March 23, 2017 at 11:35:57 AM UTC-4, Jonathan Donehower wrote:
>>
>> This is my first post.  I have been commuting regularly now for over a 
>> year and ready to buy a new bike with my wife's support. We will be going 
>> to one car and VW will partially subsidize this purchase with the Diesel 
>> Scandal settlement.  I am struggling to decide which model to buy and was 
>> wondering what advice you all might have.  I am debating between the Sam, 
>> Joe and Clem.  I realize there is probably no bad choice.   I currently 
>> have two bikes.  I have a Rivendell Romulus I purchased from a friend but 
>> it isn't my first choice for commuting.  I also converted a Jamis Nova 
>> Steel bike (probably similar to the cross check) to a more relaxed ride 
>> with the Soma Oxford Bars.  I enjoy the bike but thinking I want the 
>> flexibility of larger wheels, and a more upright position.  Currently 
>> running 32 mm. I don't really go on bike tours since riding the Oregon 
>> Coast with the wrong equipment 9 years back but as my kids grow up, I would 
>> like that flexibility. It would mostly be for weekend rides, fire roads and 
>> primarily commuting.
>>
>> The Joe Appaloosa seems to be a reflect Grant's latest thinking on bikes. 
>>  It seems like a fantastic bike but perhaps overkill for what I ride.  I am 
>> not sure I need 45 mm tires and 52 CS.  But then I think perhaps I should 
>> just go all in on the Rivendell philosophy instead of taking baby steps. 
>>  The Joe seems like the heir to the Atlantis reflecting what Grant has 
>> learned over the last decade.
>>
>> The Clem Smith Jr seems like a wonderful bike and very similar to the 
>> Joe.  I can't figure out after reading the lists what the real differences 
>> would be beyond lugs.  I have some concern with the sizing.  My PBH of 85cm 
>> would put me at a 52 in the Clem (55 in the Joe).  I am at the top end of 
>> the sizing.  I am 6 ft with shorter legs. In fact the 52 would fit both my 
>> wife at 5'3" and me at 6 ft.  Logically I realize this bike would fit my 
>> needs but then emotionally I got back to the Joe.
>>
>> I am also looking at the Sam Hillborne seems like it might be a good 
>> compromise.  it takes fat wheels, good for light touring (probably heavy 
>> touring by my standards) and allows for a more relaxed fit.  I also think I 
>> would be losing long-term flexibility and I weigh 210 lbs, and might be 
>> better off with the more robust bike.  
>>
>> Again I realize there is probably no wrong choice but would love to hear 
>> your thoughts.  I love reading the forum, I really appreciate the Rivendell 
>> philosophy and excited to take a big jump in.  
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Anything unusual needed for an Appaloosa build?

[Ed Carolipio]

For a canti build, someone mentioned the hangers already but I found I 
needed to adjust the headset spacers (1" silver, 2.5mm or 5mm thick, having 
a handful is nice) to accommodate the front hanger since I ran out of fork 
using the spacer included with the frame. I also snapped the seat post bolt 
troubleshooting slippage so I recommend having some spare M6x25mm bolts 
(20mm may be long enough) with matching lock nuts handy.

There are three potential mount points for the rear rack: two are M6 (as 
others have pointed out), with the third, rearmost one as M5. Most folks 
run a fender on the M5 mount, but I won't judge you if you rebel against 
convention. Of the two M6 mount points, if you choose the dropout one, I 
suggest getting in the fenders in at the same time: the two mount points 
are close enough that there may be minor gymnastics involved to get all of 
that to work together. I opted for the seat stay mount, and that has worked 
well for me and my commuter bags/panniers plus no issues with heel strike.

Note that "thick washer/spacer" (I think they're 2.5mm) which Riv sells are 
for M5 bolts, so I couldn't use them to space out the rear rack whilst 
opting for the M6 mounts.

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[RBW] Re: rear axle placement/adjuster screw removal

[Ed Carolipio]

When I had that type of rear end on a geared bike and pulled the axle all 
the way back, the drive side of the axle tended to slip forward under load. 
If you look at your frame from the rear, the rear dropouts aren't 
absolutely parallel; rather they taper out a bit as you go rearward. In 
that rearmost position, your QR skewer may be working against too much 
tension from the frame, i.e. your rear dropout distance may be much larger 
than the spec for your hub.

Things to counter that effect are an "internal cam" type skewer, where the 
lever enters the cam body perpendicular to the axle, and shimming spacers 
on the axle.

On Monday, April 10, 2017 at 4:05:55 PM UTC-7, clifto...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Does anyone know if I can remove the small, threaded, axle positioners 
> from the rear drop outs without ill effect? Then the axle will go all the 
> way back. Do the screws significantly strengthen the drop out?  I have a 
> marginal fit with a set of tires and removing the screws will get me a 1/4 
> inch rearward and possibly enough room to fit.  Any thoughts?
> Much appreciated!  I know that I may have to carefully align the wheel but 
> I assume the dropouts without the screws are pretty square.)
>

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[RBW] Re: How are some Appaloosa owners loading up their bikes for commuting?

[Ed Carolipio]

Sorry, no photos ATM but my setup isn't much different than photos at the 
riv site.

For the front I'm running the "riv standard" Wald 137 basket tie wrapped to 
a Nitto front rack. I've got the M18 but I'd recommend the Mark's. The R14 
probably would be overkill for that size basket. I got a medium riv 
Sackville where I keep the spare tube, tools, pump, anything I need to 
reach easily (badge, locker key, phone), and any layering items (jacket, 
vest, gloves).The Sackville has two tabs: I loop velcro straps through 
those onto the basket. I've got a bike locker at work, but taking and 
lugging the Sackville out is pretty easy if I need to lock up the bike.

For the rear, I used to have the Pletscher Clem rack (with the pannier bars 
and light tab) but now am running the medium Nitto 32R. I'm using the rack 
tab on top of the seat stay, toward the front. The medium can't use the 
rearmost rack tab since the deck hits the tire. The large 32R probably 
would work on my 51cm bike using that rearmost tab. The Clem rack worked 
fine, and I really liked it's wide flat deck. I switched to R32 simply for 
the bling: the performance for commuting seemed the same.

For my primary bag, I use an Ortlieb Commuter bag 
(https://ortliebusa.com/product/commuter-bag-ql3-1/) with the QL3.1 mount. 
That carries a laptop, a change of clothes, work papers, thermos, and a 
snack. The nice thing about the QL 3.1 is the back of the bag is flat and 
doesn't have any hardware sticking out. Also, on-and-off for the bag is 
super quick. The disadvantage is having to mount some hardware on the rack 
that needs to be removed in order mount any other bag on that side of the 
rack.

One issue I had with other bikes in running this particular setup in the 
rear was the offset load - one heavy pannier on the left side - noticeably 
affected handling. That's not a problem with the Appaloosa. Also, I've 
experimented with multiple pannier bags and didn't have a problem with heel 
strike, nor did I really need to make extreme adjustments to the pannier 
hooks to get the bag to work right.

--Ed

On Friday, March 3, 2017 at 10:24:09 AM UTC-8, Philip Kim wrote:
>
> I plan to run a front basket, but wondering how you guys run loads for 
> commuting? I want to take advantage of the long chainstays. I'm thinking an 
> R14 or Marks rack with a saddlebag, but also see the convenience in the 
> Nitto 32R and putting panniers.
>
> Pics requested! Please
>

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[RBW] Re: How are some Appaloosa owners loading up their bikes for commuting?

[Ed Carolipio]

 

I took a few minutes after coming home today to snap photos of my commute 
setup on the Appaloosa and posted them on Google Drive. 

 Frame 
size is 51 cm so wheels are 650b. (For context, here's a link to my earlier 
post 
 
in this thread.)


A few notes:

   - On 1, the grey Ortlieb commuter bag tilts forward not to avoid heel 
   strike but due to the fit of the QL3.1 hardware on the 32R. (See 4)
   - On 2, don't let the red pannier fool you: that's mostly air and weighs 
   less than 5 lbs.
   - On 3, that's a shot of the back side of the Back Roller on the rear 
   rack. Note how the rack clamps are separated evenly so the pannier is 
   centered on the rack front-to-rear. Also, it's mounted on the lower rail.
   - On 4, that's a shot of the rear rack with the Ortlieb commuter bag 
   removed. The black triangle thing is the QL3.1 hardware that stays behind 
   on the bike. Because the 32R has such a generous opening and I wanted the 
   option of running a small saddlesack, I had to run one side of the triangle 
   parallel to the rear vertical stay on the rack, which tilts the bag forward.
   - On 6, I shot a closeup of the ... ahem ... metal sculpting I did to 
   make the deck bar for the front rack go under the front cantis. A Mark's 
   front rack would be a cleaner and sturdier install. (That's a future 
   upgrade for me.)
   - On 7, that's the underside of the front bag/basket to show how many 
   tie wraps I used to secure the two together
   

--Ed

On Friday, March 3, 2017 at 10:24:09 AM UTC-8, Philip Kim wrote:
>
> I plan to run a front basket, but wondering how you guys run loads for 
> commuting? I want to take advantage of the long chainstays. I'm thinking an 
> R14 or Marks rack with a saddlebag, but also see the convenience in the 
> Nitto 32R and putting panniers.
>
> Pics requested! Please
>

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[RBW] Re: Tires for Sam

[Ed Carolipio]

I put a set of Panaracer Col de la Vie 650bx38mm on my sister's bike. 
Comfortable, not too heavy, easy on and off the rim, tan sidewalls for a 
retro look, and a set goes for less than $50 shipped. She did get a flat on 
one ride when a piece of glass got stuck between the treads then worked 
itself through the casing, but tough to blame the tire for that. I still 
consider it a good value tire in that size.


On Thursday, April 6, 2017 at 5:15:33 PM UTC-7, Broccoli Cog wrote:
>
>  know the cream of the crop recommendation for the Sam is the 38mm Compass 
> Barlow Pass. What about others that are a little less? How about the 
> Continental's that Riv sells. They call them "basketball" tires. Anyone 
> with first hand knowledge on the Conti's?
>

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[RBW] Re: Hitch rack recommendations?

[Ed Carolipio]

I have the Swagman XTC2 rack which is similar to the Hollywood one but IMO 
the fit and finish on the Swagman is a little nicer. (I've owned both.) 
I've had no issues with fenders, racks, or mixte frames, and I've even 
hauled our Xtracycle Edgerunner (long tail cargo bike) with room to spare. 
Not as fancy as the Thule so it costs less.

http://www.swagman.net/product/x-tc2/

It doesn't come with a decent integrated system to lock the bike or the 
hitch bolt. (Workarounds are, of course, available.) There's no mechanism 
to move the bike out of the way to open the trunk or tailgate, so I just 
plan accordingly. And I wouldn't use it with a carbon fiber frame.

As a side comment, I personally would be reluctant to get the Thule rack 
you link. It's a great rack but I don't like how it doesn't fold compactly 
when off the car. Platform racks are large and oddly shaped, so the ones 
I've owned have been a pain to store. With lots of room, that wouldn't be 
an issue, but garage space for me is a rare and precious commodity.

--Ed C.

On Monday, August 14, 2017 at 11:11:07 AM UTC-7, Michele wrote:
>
> Shopping for a rack for my car, so I can get my bike to farther flung 
> locations, and I'm realizing that most hitch racks require a naked front 
> wheel. I need one that allows me to have a small rack and Wald 137 on the 
> front. I'm considering the Thule DoubleTrack Pro 
> https://www.thule.com/en-us/us/bike-rack/hitch-bike-racks/thule-doubletrack-pro-_-1691160
>  
> but I'm wondering what riders in this group use?
>

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[RBW] Re: the sunflower ride...

[Ed Carolipio]

Just wanted to say thanks for sharing. Very well done.

--Ed C.

On Monday, July 10, 2017 at 1:08:49 PM UTC-7, Eunice Chang wrote:
>
> Heya. 
>
> Been a while since I checked in this list...popped in to share a video of 
> my recent ride on Neuse River Trail to the sunflower field in Raleigh, NC. 
> They're grown out of wastewater and used for biodiesel. Thumper (my AHH) 
> makes an appearance, and Serenity (QB) is there as well, though you can't 
> see it- the ride is filmed from QB. :) If you like nature documentaries, 
> you'll enjoy this. 
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rztruswZnrc
>
> (No sound, but just as well as Thumper made some very loud gear shifting 
> sounds). 
>
> -E.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Do I need tire fatter than 650B x 42?

[Ed Carolipio]

Haven't mounted them yet, but Riv had recommended the SKS B65 Commuter II 
for 650b x 50mm+ tires on the Appa.

https://www.rivbike.com/collections/fenders/products/sks-esge-commuter-ii-silver-fenders-b65-700c-29er


On Thursday, April 27, 2017 at 5:11:55 PM UTC-7, Ash A wrote:
>
>
> Turns out P55 won't work for 2.0/50mm tires :(
>
> Question to folks with 650x50 (or bigger) tires: What fender are you 
> using?  I'd really appreciate if you post a picture :)
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> On Saturday, 15 April 2017 10:10:28 UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>FWIW, What do anyone else's SKS fenders actually measure ?  My P50's 
>> are about 53mm wide. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hub Area Rack, with non-Riv bags...can I?

[Ed Carolipio]

I've got the Ortlieb front roller classic with the QL2.1 system. (Sorry at 
work can't take a photo but here's a link 
 
for now.) I've got the top hooks separated almost all the way, and the 
bottom hook is close to one corner (of that "smiley" track on lower part of 
the rear.)

My experience with panniers is that the back is relatively flat with all 
the mounting mechanisms sticking out, and for mounting there are two 
"hooks" up top then some mechanism to stabilize the bottom from swinging 
away from the rack. Fit comes down to three things for non-disc brake* 
forks:

   - The three "touch points" on the bag line up with places on the rack 
   where those touch points can attach.
   - The mechanism for the three touch points on the bag fit snugly where 
   they attach to the rack. (On the Ortlieb, the manufacturer provides plastic 
   spacers to adjust the hook opening to the diameter of the rack, while the 
   opening of the bottom hook varies along its length plus it can rotate. More 
   common is a bungee/metal hook combo.)
   - The bag is positioned in such a way that there's no interface around 
   it. For the front, that's most likely the distance between the bottom of 
   the bag with the floor, but the top of the bag could interfere with the 
   brake/brake cable or front bag/basket if it's tall enough.

*[Having a disc brake means the caliper is bracketed by the front rack. I 
didn't have issues with fit, but I found I had to set the pannier a certain 
way to make it easy to put and take off.]

So, the HAR seems like it would work well with the standard 3-point, 
rear-is-flat, small-ish pannier bags. Here, small-ish here is that the bag 
doesn't extend much beyond those touch points. You can use the Ortlieb 
sport roller bag  - the 
front roller is discontinued - as a template to compare the pannier bags 
you're considering.


--Ed

On Tuesday, May 2, 2017 at 2:24:40 PM UTC-7, Neil Doran wrote:
>
> I'm back to adding front bags to my Sam. I searched, but did not find info 
> on whether the HAR will accept non-Riv bags, such as Lone Peak or Swift.
>
> I understand Ortleib will work, and saw the thread about adding their 
> mounting hardware to Riv bags, but not interested in that solution.
>
> Anybody with first-hand knowledge of fitting non-Riv bags to the HAR?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Neil
>

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[RBW] Re: HAR compatability with Ortlieb Sport Roller classic?

[Ed Carolipio]

I have the "Front" Roller classic - different name, same pannier - mounted 
on a HAR with the QL2.1 mount. That fits pretty well with 650b wheels and 
Tektro 720 cantilevers brakes.

--Ed

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 7:48:51 PM UTC-7, zybariver wrote:
>
> I searched the archives but didn't get a definitive answer on whether the 
> Hub Area rack will play nice with the Ortlieb Sport Roller classic.  Can 
> someone with experience enlighten me?
>
> Greg
> Seattle
>

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[RBW] Re: So many Rivs on the chopping block

[Ed Carolipio]

Three thoughts:
(a) I read your title as: "So many Rivs on the chopping block ... but none 
in my size." :)
(b) I think summer is peak bike selling season: I get more interest when I 
sell in the summer, and it makes sense that folks want to play with their 
shiny new toys right away.
(c) This thread is starting to go off the rails on the disc brakes thingy

On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 3:51:16 AM UTC-7, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Why so many great Rivs for sale on the list recently? What are folks 
> moving to this riding season and why? 
>

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[RBW] Re: Discs versus calipers

[Ed Carolipio]

As with others, I definitely like discs for muddy riding or lots of stream 
crossings, mostly for avoiding the sandpaper effect with wet, dirty pads 
and the no-brainer braking consistency after the rim gets doused.

Also, as with others, I've found setup to be finicky, pad wear to be meh, 
and it's hard to tell how low the pads are. There's also disc brake rub - 
just noise, not real friction - which provides a pinging soundtrack to your 
ride and tends to come and go, and come and go, and come and go...

Hydraulics are butter, but need to be bled periodically, and, please, just 
replace the innards if you think there's a leak somewhere. I maintain my 
own bikes and am now in the "ride more, wrench less" stage of my life so 
I've moved away from the MTB braking heaven that is hydraulics.

I found discs to be overkill in my road applications. I've heard on a fully 
loaded touring rig it could make a difference, but I don't have first hand 
knowledge.

I like plus sized tires for singletrack while some folks like fatties 
(>3.5" wide), and those tires may not work with a rim brake. I would not be 
surprised, though, if some crazy fool is using a set of 26 x 4.8 Surly 
Lou's with cantis and extra long straddle wires. Bike geeks are awesome.

Finally, since this is a Riv board, a disc option Riv custom 650b with 
Hunq-y lugs that can take a 3" (or even 2.5") wide tire would put my bank 
account and marriage in serious jeopardy.


--Ed C.


On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 8:09:11 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I'm putting this in a new thread, because I have some questions. Note: I'm 
> not disagreeing, I'm asking because I want to know more. 
>
> Clayton said, in the Rivs On Block thread:
>
> *- More margin betw. rim and brake to adjust for rub. Disc brakes usually 
> have much tighter clearances and make it a much more fiddly affair to get 
> rid of rub (applies mostly to hydros)*
> *- Typically lighter weight*
> *[...]*
> *- Pads tend to last longer*
>
> #1: I agree that this is very true for mechanical discs, but for 
> hydraulics? I thought that pads for hydraulics allowed more gap than those 
> for mechanicals, at least once-sided-pull mechanicals. For me, this isn't 
> merely academic; it may influence my choice of mechanicals over hydraulics 
> one day.
>
> #2: Yes, calipers are lighter, but then disc-specific rims can be much 
> lighter than rim brake rims, at least in the wider sizes.
>
> #3: I've read that this is true; I've also read the opposite (recently, in 
> a review of some disc setup -- Bike Radar? Which one is true?
>
> I do know that my Kool Stop salmons seem to last years if not decades.
>
> -- 
> *30% Supply and Demand discount, listmembers only, on all resume, 
> LinkedIn, and writing services, until Demand equals Supply! And there's 
> more! 10% kickback for any referral resulting in fully paid, list-price 
> contract. And still more!  I am offering services in trade for a road bike, 
> or frame and parts, that are period compatible with my AM hub, circa 1937 
> to 1961. See my website for what I do and what I charge; email for details.*
>
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nouvelle Mexique,  Vereinigte Staaten
> **
> **
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: seatpost/set back help

[Ed Carolipio]

Have you considered getting a 29.8 -> 27.2 seat post shim? Problem Solvers 
and Cane Creek both have that size, and there's a large selection of set 
back seat posts with a 27.2 diameter. I use a Cane Creek shim on a 31.6 -> 
 27.2 conversion, and have had no issues with slippage even at my svelte 
215 pounds.

--Ed C.

On Monday, June 26, 2017 at 9:55:59 AM UTC-7, Davey Two Shoes wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone!
> I need a little more setback than whats offered by the stock seatpost on 
> my clem. The diameter is 29.8. I haven't been able to find much available, 
> and nothing that has any improvement with regards to additional set back. 
> Any suggestions? I guess the other option I could explore would be a saddle 
> with longer rails than my B17. Maybe a San Anatomica?
>

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[RBW] Re: seatpost/set back help

[Ed Carolipio]

+1 on the VO for lots of setback. It's pricey, but oh so shiny.

On Monday, June 26, 2017 at 12:21:44 PM UTC-7, Austin B wrote:
>
> Velo Orange makes are large setback post with 30.2mm of setback: 
> http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/seatposts/vo-grand-cru-seat-post-long-setback-1668.html
>
> It's a 27.2 diameter so you'd still need the shim.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bike computer

[Ed Carolipio]

I have a Garmin 810 which I bought as my first GPS bike computer and now 
use habitually. It's definitely way more than I need. I use it as an 
independent measurement of speed and temperature, which come in handy on 
most rides, and the clock is useful to me as a commuter. I've experimented 
with the advanced features - turn-by-turn and real time tracking can be 
nice - but for most rides I don't bother since I could use that setup time 
to ride instead.

I like the Garmin since I can move it from bike to bike without having to 
futz with sensors and cables (and actually not having to futz with those 
things in general.) I don't want to mount my phone on the handlebar since I 
don't want to place it at risk, for obvious reasons. If I rode only one 
bike, I'd probably just use a traditional bike computer as well.


--Ed C.

On Friday, June 9, 2017 at 10:55:28 AM UTC-7, Broccoli Cog wrote:
>
> What do you use for a bike computer if anything at all? In my past cycling 
> life I wouldn't think about leaving the house without my Garmin and a HRM. 
> These days more often than not I simply don't bother with the Garmin. I 
> must say it's pretty liberating. I've contemplated going back to a plain 
> old bike computer that is simple to use and just keeps track of time and 
> distance. Since I no longer have a desire to upload my rides online I 
> wonder if a simple computer is best or maybe I don't even need one at all? 
> Curious to know what other list members are doing.
>

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[RBW] Re: Headset adjustment how to ?'s...

[Ed Carolipio]

On Step 4, to check for excessive play I like to brace the front wheel 
against something solid - like a wall or a heavy workshop bench - hold onto 
the handlebar then push forward on the frame or seat. The steerer shouldn't 
move relative to the head tube at all when you do that.

Thumbs up on the suggestions on using a stand like the Feedback Rakk when 
making adjustments and on always using two wrenches.

One last note: re-check the headset play after each of the next few rides.

Enjoy,
Ed C.


On Friday, October 13, 2017 at 12:38:58 PM UTC-7, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> This is a needle bearing IRD Rollerdrive just like Riv sells.
>
> 1. Loosen lock nut
> 2. tighten the nut under the spacers 1/8 turn
> 3. Tighten lock nut.
> 4. test for correct feel.
> 5. Readjust if.
>
>
> Is this right?
> Anything to look out for?
> Do I have to worry about those keyed spacers or anything else that might 
> be keyed I have to be careful of?
> Or is this just as easy as described above?
>

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[RBW] Re: New (old) bike day? An Eroica bike

[Ed Carolipio]

Very nice.

I first heard about L'Eroica via BikeSnobNYC - Brooks sent him on a junket 
to Italy - then found out about Eroica California when I was researching 
the Great Western Bike Rally. (Bianchi sells an Eroica specific bike - $4K 
MSRP ouch.) I'm looking forward to living vicariously through your updates 
and photos.

--Ed C.

On Wednesday, October 18, 2017 at 12:51:16 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>
> There's a category and a classification for everything in the bike 
> industry now, making it really easy for an N+1 guy like me to invent new 
> slots in the stable that need (NEED!) to be filled.  The latest for me is 
> an Eroica bike.  An Eroica bike is an old road bike, kept period correct, 
> for use in Eroica events.  Reviews of these events are glowingly positive, 
> mainly for the social aspects of them.  I'm a social guy, so if I can get 
> another bike, and use that as my admission fee to a fun social event, I'm 
> in!  
>
> I found for myself a 1983 Univega Gran Premio.  There are many many little 
> reasons why this particular bike appealed to me, and I was able to get an 
> OK price on it.  It came in last night, and it was in such great shape that 
> I was able to overhaul and service everything I wanted to overhaul and 
> service and render it completely road ready.  So, here's new bike day:
>
>
> 
>
> Riv content:
>
>
> --I upgraded to Riv Rolly Polly tires
>
> --lugged steel
>
> --Eroica celebrates beausage over restorations, particularly repaints
>
> --great, legendary Suntour, SR and DiaCompe parts
>
> --once I finalize stem length, I'll re-do the bars with Newbaums
>
>
> I have not ruled out trying to get 200 miles in on this bike before 
> October ends, which would be bike #11 in my 10x200 challenge. 
>
> I have not yet signed up for Eroica California 2018, but I think I might
>
>
> Bill Lindsay
>
> El Cerrito, CA
>

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[RBW] Re: Trigger shifters on swept-back bars - Jones or others

[Ed Carolipio]

I've used Deore 3x9 shifters on a 710 Jones Loop and a Bosco, and it works 
well for both.

I found the best position for shifters on the Jones is pretty darn close to 
the loop. A superlong grip (like the ESI Chunky, which they sell) or just 
bar tape gives a myriad of hand positions across the outside of the bar, 
along with the associated shift in saddle position and/or angle to the 
back. The indicator window on the Shimano does sneak up over a part of the 
"loop" portion, which may restrict the secondary position on the inside 
grips on the Jones bar.

On the Bosco, because of the wrist position, the triggers are about a 1/4 
turn rotated with respect to the ground. If you see folks with pictures of 
the Ergo grip positioning on the Bosco - Grant has some photos posted on 
the Blug with his wrapped Dutch paddle grips, 
https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/peeking-through-the-knothole/last-one-of-march-2017
 
- just imagine how the triggers have to rotate around CW on right and CCW 
on left to be under the brake levers.

--Ed C.

On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 7:51:43 AM UTC-7, Melanie wrote:
>
> Has anyone found a trigger shifter that works well with swept-back bars? 
>  I may have to install bar ends or go the oddly mounted thumb shifter 
> route. But triggers near the brake levers would be ideal. Thanks. 
> Melanie 

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[RBW] Re: Real ride comparison: Joe Appaloosa vs Sam Hillborne vs Roadini?

[Ed Carolipio]

I was in a similar situation: I have a Joe and was looking for "something 
else" to complement it. I ended up getting a Roadini instead of the Sam 
since I thought there was too much overlap between the Sam and the Joe. (To 
be fair, I haven't ridden the Sam.) I peeked at the Roadeo but don't ride 
often enough to justify the cost difference. As others have said, setup is 
everything so I purpose built each for the job: Joe is an upright 
tourer/townie (racks, fenders, dynamo lights) and Leo is a drop bar 
meanderer. I live in the city so all my riding is asphalt, with road 
quality and traffic being the biggest variables.

As expected, efficiency is the most notable difference with the two (duh). 
I say "efficiency" since as an old fart I don't go much faster on the 
Roadini, but I can definitely go further and hills are much easier to 
tackle. Both are fun to ride in their own Rivendell way, and the Roadini 
"just for fun" is a nice change of pace from put-putting around on the Joe. 
The ride position makes a difference to me as well as I prefer the Joe when 
playing in traffic while I would rather ride the Roadini on dedicated paths 
or on not-so-busy streets.

Note that I did find the skinny tires (Paselas) on the Roadini a little 
jarring, at least compared to the 50mm Marathons on the Joe, so I bit the 
bullet and got Compass 32mm tire. That helped out a lot. I'm still messing 
with other setup things on the Roadini, but I'm definitely happy with it as 
an alternative to the Joe which I can just grab and ride.


--Ed C.

On Monday, December 18, 2017 at 4:09:49 PM UTC-8, Bob Lovejoy wrote:
>
> I figured I would ask on the off chance (or maybe not so off?) that 
> someone has ridden all three bikes and can describe their take on the 
> differences they detected.  I know from design that the Roadini should be 
> faster than the Sam and the Sam faster than the Joe.  I know from a touring 
> and rough stuff perspective it would be the Joe then the Sam then the 
> Roadini.
>
> That said, I am curious if anyone has had the chance to ride all three and 
> what impressed them regarding differences as well as similarities.
>
> My caveat, as I now say often, is I have no business asking!  Still, I 
> would be curious...  I have a Joe that I love but having the Joe built for 
> rough stuff and something else built for faster and smoother riding does 
> sound like a great thing.  I am attracted to the Sam but fear there is just 
> too much overlap with the Joe I already have.
>
> Anyway, figured I would ask...  Thanks in advance for any help or 
> descriptions.
>
> Bob L.
> Galesburg, IL
>

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[RBW] Re: I’ll bite: what is a Randi Jo Pocket Tender?

[Ed Carolipio]

I've got the Revelate Feedbags, though the waxed canvas on the Randi Jos 
definitely has an old school vibe which resonates aesthetically with 
saddlesack stuff, leather saddles, and shellacked bar tape. I used mine 
with a frame bag to hold water bottles and snacks. It didn't affect 
handling and they never got in the way. Probably not a required item, but 
having a pair gives flexibility in how/what to carry on a bike. 

--Ed C

On Friday, November 10, 2017 at 2:56:39 AM UTC-8, William R. wrote:
>
> I received Rivs November email promo yesterday and down at the bottom they 
> have this new bag: Randi Jo XL Pocket tender bag. Looks interesting. Follow 
> the link and it’s out of stock. That just makes it look more interesting to 
> me! But what is it? All photos show it detached from the bike or person. 
> And they mention an existing smaller version. Is this meant to be an under 
> the saddle burrito roll type of bag? It kind of looks like one of those 
> bags that free climbers use to keep their powder in... makes me wonder if 
> it could also attach to a persons hip or like a “fanny pack” or something. 
> Thus the pocket tender name? Anyway, never heard of these and they look 
> pretty neat. 
>
> Bill in Westchester, NY

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[RBW] Re: 46cm appa clearance

[Ed Carolipio]

Not a 46cm, but a 51cm Appa with 650b wheels. Right now I've got Marathon 
Supremes 50mm tires and with the SKS P55 fenders on the bike. Very little 
margin between the fender mounts and side walls, but I've had no rubbing or 
interference issues for 6 months of riding, even banging the rear fender 
repeatedly into back of the bike locker at work. (*crosses fingers*) I 
tried to mount a set of Commuter II B65s, but found that I would have to 
trim the fender a bit to fit it onto the fork and got lazy. (Don't recall 
if I would had to do that on the frame.)

I used to run 42mm tires (Panaracer Gravel King) with the P55s and that had 
clearance for days.

--Ed C.

On Wednesday, November 8, 2017 at 1:48:01 AM UTC-8, Sky Coulter wrote:
>
> Looking to buy one soon for my wife. Just wondering if anyone who owns one 
> has fendered a rat trap pass w reasonable clearance? I’m trying to decide 
> what tires to build around.  I’d be happy w anything 40-50mm ish. 
>
> Thanks, 
>
> Sky in new west 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Fall Ride w/ Appaloosa plus random bike thoughts

[Ed Carolipio]

That's a nice neighborhood: mine tends to have more asphalt and motor 
vehicles. Thanks for sharing.

On Friday, December 1, 2017 at 1:25:59 PM UTC-8, mlpessar wrote:
>
> Back on the bike for the first time in almost two months, the hiatus due 
> to a bout of sciatica.  This lingering effects of this condition encouraged 
> me to ride easier than my normal fairly measured pace. Stuck to the 
> neighborhood. Cruised sedately but attentively and in slowing down got to 
> enjoy the beautiful Fall colors more fully than I otherwise might have. I 
> must say that the Appaloosa is a pleasure to ride at a slowed-down pace. 
> This is a bike whose cream accents are especially appropriate. Describing 
> the riding sensations experienced on riding a given bike is always a 
> difficult task as these impressions are always subjective. Regarding the 
> Appa, some descriptors that come to mind are "smooth,"  "stable" (while 
> remaining nimble) and yes..."creamy."  Suffice to say it is a very 
> pleasurable bike to ride.  Took some pics of the Appaloosa and Fall sites. 
> They can be found at: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmaLMdC4 
> .
> -Happy Trails, Marc
>

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[RBW] Re: Another orange bike - Holey Hillborne Build

[Ed Carolipio]

Those high flange hubs are so pretty. Why no closeup of the rear one...?

--Ed C.

On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 5:43:56 AM UTC-7, lconley wrote:
>
> This is as close as I get to a racing bike these days. Kind of an tribute 
> to the drillium bikes of my youth. I love the giant drilled high flange 
> hubs. This is my default “event” bike, rode the Cross Florida on it this 
> year. Very comfortable and fast, even on brick roads. 
> Frame: 56 cm metallic orange double TT Sam Hillborne. Nitto WB cages.
> Wheels: built by me. 36 spoke. Curtis Odom Holey high flange, 11 speed 
> hubs. Velocity Synergy rims, OC rear. Wheelsmith double butted spokes, 3 
> cross, Paul skewers. Compass Snoqualmie Pass standard weight tires. 
> Drivetrain: 2 x 11, indexing. Dura-Ace bar end shifters, Shimano 105 
> derailleurs, Shimano Ultegra chain, Shimano Ultegra 12-25 cassette. 
> Crank: VO Drillium 34x48. 
> Pedals: VO Sabot platform 
> Seatpost: Nitto 27.2 S-83 two bolt
> Saddle: Brooks B-68, black 
> Stem: Nitto lugged
> Handlebars: Nitto Noodle
> Handlebar Tape: Brooks Cloth
> Brakes: Tektro R559 sidepulls, TRP RRL SR drilled levers. 
> Weight: 26 lb. 15 oz.
>
> Laing
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Roadinis could be arriving any day now?

[Ed Carolipio]

Congrats, Nels, and thanks for sharing.

--Ed C.

On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 8:32:09 AM UTC-7, Nels Sorenson wrote:
>
> Frame arrived yesterday, did a quick built up and now trying out stems to 
> see which is the ticket.
> This is the first drop-bar bike I've had in twenty years.  After a few 
> short test rides I think I'll be able to do drop bars again!
>
> Nels
>
> On Tuesday, October 24, 2017 at 5:09:11 AM UTC-7, islaysteve wrote:
>
>> So I guess that the Roadini is the new Bleriot, only, you know, not 
>> 650b.  I say this as a Bleriot owner.  I took a good look at the photos on 
>> the Riv site last night and it's a great-looking bike.  Similar price point 
>> to where the Bleriot was, and the blue color is even quite similar.  I 
>> personally think the Grilver is very nice, would choose that one.  I'm sure 
>> that the new owners will enjoy their Roadinis immensely and I look forward 
>> to build photos.  Cheers,
>> Steve Alkire
>> Kensington, MD
>>
>> On Wednesday, October 18, 2017 at 3:27:46 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>> It's usually me who builds fast and wants to show off, but I didn't buy 
>>> a Roadini, so it won't be me this time.  :-)
>>>
>>> Speaking of quick builds, I'll start a new thread...
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, October 18, 2017 at 12:12:02 PM UTC-7, Daniel D. wrote:

 Got the call yesterday too.  Gotta make time to go pick it up.  Wonder 
 who's going to be the first to show off their build?



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[RBW] Re: Truss-frame Atlantis!

[Ed Carolipio]

Sigh, just another reason I wish I was 8 inches taller...

--Ed C.

On Thursday, April 26, 2018 at 11:24:20 AM UTC-7, jbu...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Just sayin'… whooo-! ;-) 
>
>
> https://78.media.tumblr.com/62ae23b7bb4fbd8f15ada87868fc155b/tumblr_p7rjqyuo0M1qe3ngpo1_1280.jpg
>  
>
> =- Joe Bunik 
> Walnut Creek, CA 
>

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[RBW] Re: It Was the Worst of Times, It Was the Best of Times

[Ed Carolipio]

Thanks for sharing. In the meantime, I will continue to work on my 
relatives and their bicycle choices...

--Ed C.

On Thursday, May 17, 2018 at 10:26:49 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> Today started out with an early morning call from my sister, who said her 
> husband's old Specialized hybrid bike had been stolen from their yard. The 
> prior evening, her husband (who I'll call D), in his haste to greet his 
> wife and Rhodesian Ridgeback dog, ditched his trusty old green steed in the 
> yard and forgot about it. The next morning my sister left for work and 
> noticed her husband's helmet and u-lock had been cast into the neighbor's 
> yard. With a sinking feeling, she looked around for the bike, which was by 
> now, long gone. You know where this story is going...
>
> D was in need of a new bike. They just relocated to Minneapolis, which has 
> fabulous bike trails, and it is a shame to miss a day of riding to work. It 
> was not designated Best Biking City for nothing! He started looking at 
> Raleigh and Handsome and Surly, but when I got word I did my best sales 
> pitch(read: nagging) for Rivendell. Initially, he didn't want to pour that 
> much money into a bike that may be stolen (he works downtown). He was 
> pretty set on that sloping top-tube Raleigh, and I sighed in defeat and 
> waited for the photos. Suddenly my sister called and said D was having a 
> change of heart!  He wanted a step-through bike, because it's awfully nice 
> not to swing your leg over a top tube and kick the giant leather bag on 
> your rear rack. Also, it's nice when you don't rip your expensive pants 
> trying to dismount. Yes, a step-through bike is just the ticket - and 
> nobody makes them in his size. Oh wait - Rivendell does! 
>
> He did some research and discovered there's a special locked area for 
> employees to stow their bikes. It requires a key card and then he can use 
> his own locks, too. As long as he remembers to put his bike away before he 
> fawns all over his wife and dog, he has a good chance of keeping it away 
> from thieves. He is good for the money and now out of excuses. He deserves 
> a shiny new Rivendell awaiting him in his garage. Minneapolis deserves a 
> glorious new Rivendell traversing its paths. I deserve to have matching 
> Rivendells with my favorite brother-in-law. I think we can all agree on 
> what must be done here.
>
> D is an attorney at a big firm and has no spare time to call Rivendell and 
> order his bike, but guess who has all the time in the world for shopping 
> with other people's money? Yes, me, devoted sister that I am. My sister and 
> I are going to group call Rivendell (I wonder if that's ever been done) and 
> snatch that 59 cm green Clem L the website says they have in stock, so 
> please, nobody buy it before we get to it tomorrow! D gave us free reign on 
> how to set it up, asking only for a rear rack and basket that holds a large 
> load. He's kind of snazzy, so I'm going to use my Hail Mary credits and 
> deck out his Clem in some fancy extras as a surprise. 
>
> Won't he be delighted by the art on the box? The skill with which they 
> pack the bike? He's had only Target bikes and the stolen Specialized, which 
> was slowly giving out under his large frame and ridiculous loads of stuff. 
> Can you imagine how luxurious that Rivendell ride will feel to him? He will 
> be ruined for any other bike. 
>
> I'll send photos of the happy new customer when we get him up and running. 
> Now I'd better head for bed, though who can sleep with this kind of 
> excitement! 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: How crucial is it to chase the threads a derailleur hanger

[Ed Carolipio]

You're worried for no reason. Still, a sharp Exacto knife around where the 
threads start to remove paint has worked well in the past though not on the 
derailleur hanger per se.

--Ed C.

On Wednesday, May 30, 2018 at 8:42:17 AM UTC-7, Bob B wrote:
>
> On a repainted frame that clearly has a coat of paint in the derailleur 
> threads... how crucial is it to chase those threads? Is it incredibly 
> unwise to attempt to slowly mount my RD, backing out of the threads every 
> 1/4 turn or so?
>
> I ask because I don't have a tap handy and I'm under a time crunch to get 
> my bike rebuilt! if theres another tapless workaround, please share! Or, 
> tell me if I'm worried for no reason.
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
> Brooklyn, NY
>

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[RBW] Re: U locks and Pitlocks

[Ed Carolipio]

Unless you're leaving your bikes locked outside overnight, for the nice 
bikes I'd go with an Abus Bordo 6000 (or equivalent) folding lock for the 
frame, Abus Nutfix for the wheels, and an 18" Otto lock (along with a 
plastic grocery shopping bag) for the Brooks, while for the small bikes a 
Bordo 5700 and/or 30" Otto locks are probably good enough.

If you're always locking a bunch of bikes together, nothing wrong with just 
using a length of chain and a good lock instead of the Bordos. I'd say a 
single Abus 6KS (1/4" diameter links) 4' in length - probably do a "dry 
run" in the garage with rope to get the length right - with an Abus 
monoblock lock. The chain is heavy and kinda tricky to transport, but at 
least there's only one and it comes out cheaper for multiple bikes.

I like the Bordos since they're easy to pack, more flexible than a U-lock, 
and much more secure than a cable lock. I prefer the Nutflix to the 
Pitlocks for wheels since I really don't enjoy torquing nuts down with 
those Pitlock keys.

Good luck on your adventures!

--Ed C.

>

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[RBW] Re: U locks and Pitlocks

[Ed Carolipio]

For me, I treat the Bordo 5700 folding lock as an alternative to a mid 
security, standard size U-lock, like the Kryptonite Evolution. 
Security-wise, the thicker/heavier Bordo 6000 series is more secure than 
the mid security standard U-lock and may be comparable to a med security 
mini U-lock, but still not as secure as a high security U lock (like the 
Kryptonite NYC).

One other advantage folding locks have over mini- or standard size U-locks 
is they're more flexible in terms of finding places to tie off a bike - 
closer to a cable lock in that sense - so that allows one to optimize 
security when picking where to park.

One other disadvantage of the folding lock (well, at least the Abus ones 
which I prefer) is they tend to be a lot pricier than a U-lock at the same 
security level.

--Ed C.

On Wednesday, June 6, 2018 at 10:10:13 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> So much good advice here! Are these folding locks you discuss taking the 
> place of U Locks? I’ve never heard of them before today. Other than 
> portability, is a folding lock superior to the traditional U Lock?

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[RBW] Re: Thoughts/considerations for Clem as daily do-it-all bike?

[Ed Carolipio]

I can't comment on sizing but I think the Clem checks all your boxes. Riv 
HQ has always been welcome to chat about about sizing and fit so I suggest 
giving them a call as well.

Clems are on the upper end in terms of price for cro-moly steel bicycles 
but IMO the price is competitive, the frame/fork are worth the premium, and 
the parts mix is pretty good. And honestly the Clem L is unusual in a good 
way: not too many mountain bike step-thrus out there. I'd have gotten one 
for me if the Bubbe mixte hadn't fit me - but I did buy one for my better 
half.

Here are a couple of blahg posts for inspiration:

https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/peeking-through-the-knothole/riveopardy-2-grant-and-general-notes
https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/peeking-through-the-knothole/clem-l-by-dominic

--Ed C.

On Thursday, October 26, 2017 at 8:27:14 AM UTC-7, Tully Lanter wrote:
>
> Hi, all. I've had my eye on a Clem for a while now, and would appreciate 
> your take on whether it's a reasonable choice. 
>
>- 5'10", ~85cm PBH, presumably in need of a 52cm frame
>- Fairly short but steep daily commutes (in the Pacific NW., i.e., 
>hilly and wet) 
>- Occasional Costco runs and the like. Long chainstays are appealing 
>for the heavy loads and bumpy roads!
>- Random, long-ish distance rides on unpredictable routes. Pavement, 
>gravel, etc. in varying proportions. Bits of singletrack if I'm so 
> inclined.
>
> I'm drawn to the Clem's relaxed but not extreme geometry, total lack of 
> back-box components, and (relatively) accessible price point. All in all, 
> does it sounds like I'm barking up the right tree? 
>
> I'm inclined just to take the plunge on a secondhand Clem (if they're out 
> there...), but since even "cheap" Rivendells aren't cheap, I'd love to hear 
> your collective thoughts first!
>

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell riders use for winter weather head gear?

[Ed Carolipio]

For mild Los Angeles winters, I like the Walz 3-panel cotton or wool caps. 
Pretty secure and I can wear them under a helmet in a pinch. 
https://www.walzcaps.com/

--Ed C.

On Friday, October 27, 2017 at 3:27:37 PM UTC-7, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> What do Rivendell riders use for winter head gear?
>

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[RBW] Re: Roadini as commuter?

[Ed Carolipio]

Hi Patrick,

Maybe the Roadini is not a good option if you like that front load? It 
doesn't come with dedicated eyelets for a front rack, so you'll have to be 
creative in figuring out how to carry that 10-15 lbs. It does have rear 
rack eyelets, fender eyelets, and will fit most 32mm tires and a fender 
simultaneously, so there are other options that can make it work.

>From other discussions about comparing the Roadini with other models, a Sam 
would likely fill that role much better. The Sam can take that front load 
but should have similar geometry and ride characteristics that you're 
looking for. Not a Sam owner, though, so I defer to others on those points.

--Ed C.


On Monday, January 8, 2018 at 6:23:48 PM UTC-8, Patrick S. wrote:
>
> Hey there, not an RBW owner (yet) but had a question concerning the 
> Roadini and thought you fine folks might be interested in giving your 
> "unbiased" opinion. 
>
> I've been commuting (approx 2400km / season) with a Surly LHT 26" for the 
> past while and am really interested in the Roadini for its geometry (higher 
> cockpit and shorter wheelbase) and looks (of course). I carry about 
> 10/15lbs up front and ride in all types of weather. Just wondering if 
> anyone here has built one up and what's their experience so far?
>
> Cheers!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Butternut Appaloosa with Woody fenders

[Ed Carolipio]

Looks absolutely decadent. Thanks for sharing.

--Ed C.

On Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 12:23:10 PM UTC-8, Ann L wrote:
>
> After almost six months, I have got the bike broken in and fixed up the 
> way I want.  The fenders were finished being installed on Monday with the 
> addition of half a wine cork to be used as a spacer.  I brought up the wine 
> cork method in a different thread and have attached pictures to show the 
> difference the spacer makes for the fit of the fenders.
>
> That said, I absolutely love the rich colors of the wood against the 
> butternut frame.  I had to go from 52 mm Big Bens to 48 mm Schwalbe Black 
> Jacks.  I was a bit apprehensive about the switch but haven't noticed a 
> different in performance or comfort.  The Wald bolt on basket is how I 
> transport my uniforms to and from work.   
>

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[RBW] Re: Riv request for store credits

[Ed Carolipio]

Picked some up as soon as I read the e-mail. Followed the link and bought 
them like regular gift cards, and now they're ready to get spent - so easy. 
The hard part is resisting the urge to burn them on a fourth Riv order this 
month...

--Ed C.

On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 4:38:03 PM UTC-8, Chris Birkenmaier 
wrote:
>
> I was just in Ri s website and saw their request for their loyal 
> supporters to purchase store credits of $10 units to help through a cash 
> flow jump. I promptly purchased some credits. I love this company and am 
> happy to help them out. Goodness knows I always find things I want to buy 
> from them. While I was doing this I also got an email with the request. 
>  I’d encourage you all to read your email or visit their website for 
> complete details 
> Chris 
> Who is getting a Roadini to add to the collection

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Atlantii and Frank Jones Sr's on the Riv site

[Ed Carolipio]

Bah, none are my size. I wish I was a little bit taller...

--Ed C.

On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 3:08:07 PM UTC-8, Bob Lovejoy wrote:
>
> Seems if you really want a 56cm Atlantis, you might have some decisions to 
> make (26" vs 650B).
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/web-special-framesets-and-bicycles
>
> Also some Frank Jones Sr frames
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/web-special-frames
>
>
> Ok, I check these things more than I should...
>
> Bob Lovejoy
> Galesburg, IL
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Roadini vs Homer

[Ed Carolipio]

I have a Roadini set up as a "roadie" (no fenders or rack, and just a small 
saddlesack for stuff) and I weigh 215 lbs. Sadly, not a Homer owner (yet) 
but I do have an Appaloosa and lots of folks weighed in on a Roadini vs Sam 
discussion recently.

Based on that, the "stripped down" part of your question is probably more 
important than the "Roadini vs Homer" part. It'll be hard to tell the 
difference between a stripped down Roadini and a stripped down Homer, or at 
least for most situations we will see, but having a second bike set up that 
way saves you the trouble of swapping stuff around on the single bike to 
get the different ride characteristics. As for rider weight, the Roadini 
doesn't seem bothered with my ... err ... bulk.


--Ed C.

On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 6:17:28 PM UTC-8, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>
> It's a good thing that 54 Roadini demo is blue instead of grilver or I 
> would probably have it in addition to the Hail Mary.  Thankfully, I don't 
> need another blue as I already have my Homer.  I don't really have room for 
> another bike in my RV either.  But, if it were grilver, I might have to 
> find a way; good thing it's not. 
>
> I really should not be having this conversation, but thinking of this has 
> me wondering something.  My Homer is decked out with dyno, lights, fenders, 
> and racks.  With a stripped Roadini, how much different might that be in 
> the riding/handling department given my current 220+ pound weight?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Tim
>

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[RBW] Re: Homer +1 discussion

[Ed Carolipio]

> " but two allows me to work on one, mess up, and still have a bike to 
ride while I sort out whatever mess I’ve created ..."

That's so relatable: absolute best argument for tinkerers to have a +1.

--Ed C.

On Thursday, February 22, 2018 at 9:15:30 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Ha, Bill. It’s never hard to get outside. The hard part is staying outside 
> whatever the weather while doing an aerobic activity, sweating, managing 
> moisture, stopping if/when needed/desired and keeping all digits warm and 
> happy. 
>
> Tim, my reality isn’t too different from yours in some ways. I could be a 
> one bike (Hunqapillar) guy, but two allows me to work on one, mess up, and 
> still have a bike to ride while I sort out whatever mess I’ve created (like 
> deciding to swap drop outs. Sardonic grin.). Since I ride every day I can, 
> two bikes is nearly essential. How’s that for solid logic justification? 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Ride Report - 600-mile tour on Joe Appaloosa

[Ed Carolipio]

Thanks for sharing, and taking the time to post. As a fellow Appaloosa 
owner with no free time, I get to live vicariously through your words and 
pictures. Much appreciated.

--Ed C.

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[RBW] Re: Outside article on CF

[Ed Carolipio]

Thanks for linking. I've owned two carbon forks ... which I just threw away 
after I stopped trusting them and I didn't want to be responsible for the 
safety of whomever I gifted them to. For me, it's the difficulty in 
detecting issues and the catastrophic failure modes that did made me quit 
CF.

--Ed C.


On Wednesday, July 25, 2018 at 12:24:48 PM UTC-7, Leslie wrote:
>
> Given our perspectives on steel, carbon fiber, and bicycles, I thought 
> this was a relevant article to share here:
>
> https://www.outsideonline.com/2311816/carbon-fiber-bike-accidents-lawsuits
>
>
>
>
> -L
>
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: urban/city tire rec: 650b, 38mm or so

[Ed Carolipio]

My sister runs a Panaracer Col de la Vie at 650b x 38. Relatively 
inexpensive, no complaints on ride or handling, and only has had 1 puncture 
in 2 years of urban service. Definitely recommend as a budget option.

--Ed C.

On Saturday, August 25, 2018 at 10:06:15 AM UTC-7, Patch T wrote:
>
> Hi Bunch
>
> A commuter needs some amount of puncture protection, but also not looking 
> for a set of bricks. Would love a happy in-between...
>
> Any recommendations? 650b, 38mm. Perhaps 40 or 42.
>
> Low cost a somewhat-requirement; I can be convinced.
>
> Thanks
>
> Patch
> BK/NY
>

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[RBW] Re: Pivots and CR720s

[Ed Carolipio]

Just wanted to thank Jeremy for this detailed tip. Now I'm going to have 
experiment with my brakes...

On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 8:06:01 AM UTC-8, Jeremy Till wrote:
>
> Yes, CR720's can have a little bit of play on the posts, as will many 
> cantilever brakes, and yes, generally higher-end brakes have closer 
> tolerances.  I once heard a story, probably from Paul Brodek on this list 
> or iBOB, about Charlie Cunningham. When he was licensing his Roller-Cam 
> brake (considered by many to be the ne plus ultra of rim brakes), he was 
> showing the SunTour engineers the proper installation procedure and got out 
> his jeweler's files to file down the brake posts on the frame so they fit 
> the bushings on his brakes just so.  The SunTour guys were looking askance 
> at each other because they could never imagine assemblers in the big 
> Japanese or Taiwanese factories doing the same thing.
>
> All that aside, in my experience the amount of play demonstrated by a 
> brake arm on the pivot isn't the primary cause of juddering or squealing.  
> Juddering is often associated with relatively flexible forks: as the fork 
> flexes back and forth under braking, it effectively changes the distance 
> from the housing stop (usually in the upper headset assembly) to the 
> straddle cable and thus varies the braking force up and down, producing the 
> juddering.  Many on this list and elsewhere have had good luck switching to 
> a fork-crown mounted housing stop like this to address juddering issues: 
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Tektro-Front-Cable-Hanger-Black/dp/B006GHDRYC
>
> Since this drastically reduces the distance between stop and straddle 
> cable, it reduces the variation in length associated with flex, and thus, 
> hopefully, the judder as well.  
>
> In my experience, if you are thinking about it anyways, adding a front 
> rack like a Mark's or Mini Front also stiffens up the fork around the 
> brakes and can reduce judder.  
>
> On Tuesday, January 23, 2018 at 7:19:13 AM UTC-8, Michael Cinibulk wrote:
>>
>> I have a first generation canti Sam and my CR720s wiggle quite s bit in 
>> the pivots, more so on the fork. With more than usual toe-in they perform 
>> just fine. Still as the toe-in lessens with pad wear the judder starts to 
>> reappear. Do others have this issue? Are the tolerances of the 720s just 
>> poor? Are other brakes better in this regard? I guess I could swap in the 
>> ‘90’s vintage Deore LX brakes on my tandem to check. I assume that brakes 
>> with built-in pivots like Paul’s would be an improvement in the regard. 
>> Comments? 
>>
>> Mike Cinibulk 
>> Bellbrook OH
>
>

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[RBW] Re: ROADINI

[Ed Carolipio]

Hi Kellie,

I built up a 50cm one for myself (78 PBH). I echo lots of the comments here 
on how the bike rides and handles. Some specific experiences with the build 
for me:

   - The Nitto Noodle - Shimano BR-400 combo which many people go with 
   didn't work for me. I preferred the shorter reach of the Soma Highway One 
   and the fatter hoods of the Tektro Ergo Brake levers - thanks to reading 
   the discussions on this board! - since I tend to hold on to the 
   handlebar-hood transition area or keep my hands on top of the hoods.
   - Thumbs up to the Velocity A23 wheels (with rear offset dish) and 
   Shimano 105 hubs (32 spokes) which Rich builds. I'm 220 lbs and the wheels 
   have zero issues, and I'm freewheeling past other people pedaling on flat 
   areas in the city.
   - I tried to fit a 38mm Panaracer Pasela TG and though it cleared the 
   fork/frame I had issues with the front Shimano calipers. I rode with a 32mm 
   Pasela and was unhappy with the vibrations and the ride. I bit the bullet 
   and ordered a set of 32mm Compass Stampede Pass. I worry about flat 
   protection but, omg, I love these tires. So, so very supple.

One caution: be prepared for people giving you compliments on your 
"classic" bike...

--Ed C.

On Wednesday, April 11, 2018 at 5:51:43 PM UTC-7, Kellie wrote:
>
> Thinking of buying a Roadini. Would like to see how people built them up; 
> and if you have time to list components, great. Anyone buy a 47cm they're 
> ready to part with?
>

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[RBW] Re: Single Speed in/around LA?

[Ed Carolipio]

Hmm, I just rode through the area with the LACBC a couple of weekends ago. 
If there's any doubt, I'd recommend getting some gears. There are enough 
ups-and-downs in that area to warrant it, you're in LA in the summer so the 
weather can be Austin-like, and you're within shouting distance of Angeles 
National Forest for opportunities to do non-commute riding.

A couple of caveats: I do know folks who ride SS by choice in that area so 
it can be done, and frankly I'm a wuss with bad knees so I need at least a 
1x to get by.

--Ed C.

On Monday, April 23, 2018 at 10:47:25 AM UTC-7, Reid Echols wrote:
>
> Hi folks, I'll be traveling from Austin to Los Angeles in a few short 
> weeks for a fellowship at the Huntington Library, and am between bringing a 
> "beater" aluminum 29er I could build up from spare parts or my trusty BMC 
> Monstercross, currently set up as a "dinglespeed" with 43c gravel tires. I 
> can handle most of the Austin hills pretty handily, and really enjoy riding 
> the BMC on local singletrack (not too many rock gardens, just the faster, 
> flowy stuff). 
>
> My question is, will I be able to fully enjoy the trails near LA on a 
> singlespeed, cross-style bike, or am I displaying a bit of hubris and 
> should just bring the more traditional mountain bike for the climbing 
> gears? I'll be commuting to the Huntington as well and don't want anything 
> too flashy lest it be stolen. Local perspectives would be welcome! 
>
> All best, 
> Reid in Austin 
>

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[RBW] Re: Joe Appaloosa: My first Rivendell

[Ed Carolipio]

That dark green is so pretty,. Definitely need to take that out tomorrow 
for St. Patrick's.

--Ed C.

On Friday, March 16, 2018 at 12:21:51 PM UTC-7, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
> Great looking bike Jonathan!  Glad to hear how much you've enjoyed it too. 
>  I particularly applaud your luggage scheme as it's the standard for my 
> Saluki as well.  Versatile and holds more than you'd think!
>
> It'll be fun to see how you build up your new Sam.
>
> Tony
>
>

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[RBW] PSA: Clembasack Available Now

[Ed Carolipio]

Greetings, all. I was poking around the Riv site today doing ... err... 
"research" and ran across the Clembasack:

https://www.rivbike.com/collections/bags/products/sackville-clem-bag?variant=649201352717

I recall a Blug or Blahg post referring to a Sackville bag that would fit 
the deeper Wald basket and scheduled to come out right around this time. I 
think the Clembasack might be it - I've been waiting for it to come out - 
though I didn't see any new announcements on the Blug or Blahg. I figured 
I'd post something here for those who had been waiting on it.

--Ed C.

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[RBW] Re: Videos by Blue Lug

[Ed Carolipio]

So awesome, thanks for sharing.

--Ed C.

On Wednesday, June 27, 2018 at 5:38:36 AM UTC-7, Takashi wrote:
>
> A Blue Lug staff made a couple of nice videos featuring Riv bikes.
> You can watch them here:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m42xOhm33vo
> and here:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmHviL6Jf1Y
>
> Enjoy!
>
> Takashi
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FOR SALE - Joe Appaloosa 58 cm Silver, Duotubus sp.

[Ed Carolipio]

As a data point, I can see the pictures and open the links to a new tab. 
I'm on Chrome running in a Mac looking at the post through 
groups.google.com.

--Ed C.

On Wednesday, October 17, 2018 at 9:11:10 PM UTC-7, Mike Godwin wrote:
>
> Repost to try this again.  Subject line is it. Joe Appaloosa, silver with 
> double top tube. Not built or ridden.  
>
>  
>
> Frame, fork, FSA headset, Nitto 26.8 seatpost, shimano something sealed 
> bottom bracket.   $950 shipped.  Boxed and ready to go.
>
>  
>
> Standover height at centerline of crank with Conti Speedmax (700x42),  
> 33.4 inches / 84.8 cm.  Standover with WTB 2.1 tires 33.75 inches /  85.7 cm
>
>  
>
> 700x52 / 2.1 tires measure about 47 mm wide on 14 mm wide rims. This 
> yields 7 mm clearance at chainstays, and 11 mm side clearance on fork 
> blades.
>
>  
> Rear triangle has three pairs barrel brazeons at top of stays, mid-stay 
> brazeons, above the dropout eyelets, and two eyelets on dropouts. The upper 
> dropout eyelet is for a 6 mm bolt, lower is conventional 5 mm. Has brazeons 
> at top of fork crown, mid-fork barrels and two eyelets on fork dropouts.  I 
> have about 25 photos, some duplicate what is on Riv website. Here are right 
> side photos with Contis and WTB tires. Contis measure 35 mm from the rim 
> bead, WTBs measure 44.5 mm from the rim bead. Please send me a note if you 
> would like to see more photos. 
>
> Mike SLO CA
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Blahg Post Ethiopian Shoes

[Ed Carolipio]

Adding another data point: I got mine today (10/24) after ordering on 7/31, 
which gives credence to the 10-12 weeks-rather-than-days theory.

I got an UrbanRunner in my typical size. I usually wear "W" or "E" and 
these fit fine so maybe not meant for those with narrower feet. Very cushy 
out of the box - doesn't feel like it needs a break in period - and 
definitely has lots of personality for a casual shoe. The rubber band laces 
are weird, though, so I'll probably swap those out for traditional laces.

--Ed C.

On Tuesday, October 9, 2018 at 3:05:28 AM UTC-7, Jay LePree wrote:
>
> Hi all:
>
> My shoes are due to ship October 10.  I truly believe that there was a 
> typo in order receipt notification.  The 10 to 12 days was meant to say 10 
> to 12 weeks.  If they are making the shoes from the basics, including 
> spinning the material to create them, 10 to 12 days seems unrealistic.  
> Looking at the time frames of delivery, 10 to 12 weeks seems more 
> realistic.  I hope everyone enjoys their shoes.  
>
> Jay "Shoe man" LePree
> Demarest, NJ
>

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[RBW] Re: handlebar/stem bags - what do people like?

[Ed Carolipio]

I have the Revelate Feed Bag and the Banana Sack. The Feed Bag may be a bit 
smallish for most SLRs but I can see the Banana Sack working out well. (As 
a caveat, I haven't tried using either to carry an SLR.) 

--Ed C.


On Friday, September 28, 2018 at 9:13:54 AM UTC-7, Neil Doran wrote:
>
> What do folks like for handlebar/stem bags, especially ones that can hold 
> an SLR with short lens? I missed the boat on the Riv product a while back.
>
> I have a Carsick Designs stem bag that I love, but it is first gen meant 
> only for a bike water bottle. Need bigger.
>
> Randi Jo looks great, just not sure it is wide enough. I'm sure I would 
> not regret the purchase, tho.
>
> Revelate seems to be a standard-bearer, and apparently has one-handed 
> operation, which seems slick.
>
> Any opinions out there?
>

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[RBW] Re: Blahg Post Ethiopian Shoes

[Ed Carolipio]

Thanks for sharing, Ash.

I just checked, and I'm on week 10. So you all are saying there's a 
chance...

--Ed C.

On Wednesday, October 10, 2018 at 6:14:59 PM UTC-7, Ash wrote:
>
>  I truly believe that there was a typo in order receipt notification.  The 
>> 10 to 12 days was meant to say 10 to 12 weeks.  If they are making the 
>> shoes from the basics, including spinning the material to create them, 10 
>> to 12 days seems unrealistic.
>
>
>
> Good points Jay.  Thanks for that perspective.  
>  
> I got mine yesterday (pictures attached, also featuring MUSA pants and MIT 
> Atlantis). 
>
> Rather good shoes!  They look VERY handmade.  After opening the package 
> the whole house had a smell of Addis Ababa for next 10 hours!  Or may be it 
> was the only-five-six-days-old shoe goo ;)  
>
> Two shoes are slightly asymmetrical. Does not affect the comfort/fit in 
> any way. Others won't notice.  To me the this and a few minor imperfections 
> make them kind of cool and unique!  
>
> Typically I don't find shoes not wide enough.  Seems like SR folks paid 
> attention to my notes and made them roomier. I quite appreciate it.I 
> wore it to work, went for a 6 mile ride afterwards and overall, these will 
> likely become my primary footwear.  
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, 9 October 2018 03:05:28 UTC-7, Jay LePree wrote:
>>
>> Hi all:
>>
>> My shoes are due to ship October 10.  I truly believe that there was a 
>> typo in order receipt notification.  The 10 to 12 days was meant to say 10 
>> to 12 weeks.  If they are making the shoes from the basics, including 
>> spinning the material to create them, 10 to 12 days seems unrealistic.  
>> Looking at the time frames of delivery, 10 to 12 weeks seems more 
>> realistic.  I hope everyone enjoys their shoes.  
>>
>> Jay "Shoe man" LePree
>> Demarest, NJ
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Ride recap - country biking on local paths

[Ed Carolipio]

Thanks for sharing, especially the photos.

--Ed C.

On Sunday, October 7, 2018 at 9:36:40 PM UTC-7, Tully Lanter wrote:
>
> Riv content: Albatross-inspired handlebars ;)
>
> Seattle-area weather gets fickle around this time of year. There's an 
> equal chance of crisp, sunny days and gray, drizzly ones. Saturday was 
> closer to the former. With the Quickbeam en route to a new home, I took my 
> commuter out into the fall foliage for a between-Rivs "country biking" 
> session. 
>
> Some photos and comments are here 
> .
>
> It totaled about 20 miles with, perhaps, a couple thousand feet of total 
> climbing. I previously rode that route last winter on a light, 20-speed 
> "gravel" bike (long since sold due to lack of utility). The fairly upright 
> single-speed was a totally different experience, but a *more* enjoyable 
> one despite the grunting and groaning that a sole, 62" gear induces on 15% 
> hills. I was delighted with the combination of 480mm chainstays and a 
> longer top tube with Albatross-like bars, even on fairly harsh 35c tires 
> that weren't totally up to the task.
>
> It took all of five miles to become clear that a little more of the 
> same--a bit more chainstay length, BB drop, tire clearance, not to mention 
> Riv build quality--would be sublime.
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: saddlebag straps

[Ed Carolipio]

Riv added a new shipping option a few months ago. The straps would ship for 
$4 via USPS. (Less than a pound, under $40.)

https://www.rivbike.com/pages/shipping

--Ed C.

On Friday, September 21, 2018 at 6:31:02 PM UTC-7, Drw wrote:
>
> I was trying to avoid the 12$ shipping for 2 items that can fit in a 
> standard envelope.

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[RBW] Re: 47-50 mm 650B street tires. Which have you tried and liked? Tried and Disliked?

[Ed Carolipio]

I've run the 43mm version of the Gravel King (slick version) and the 50mm 
Marathon Supremes on my Appaloosa, and ride exclusively on city pavement. 
Thumbs up for both tires. I ended up sticking with the Marathon Supremes on 
the Appa for the flat protection and the reflective stripe since that's my 
commuter. I don't sense a difference in cush by going with the higher 
volume Marathons, nor do I find a difference in rolling resistance over 
pavement between the two. The Supremes have been bullet proof (knock on 
wood) for the past 18 months I've had them.

I still have the Gravel Kings on another bike which I ride less often, and 
I'm happy with them in that application.

--Ed C.

On Sunday, September 23, 2018 at 6:32:39 PM UTC-7, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:
>
> I've been looking to move from 700c to a smaller wheel size for several 
> years, with my initial plan to go down to 26".  I've been watching the new 
> tire market and have decided 650B is where I'm going to have the best 
> options so that is now my plan.  My riding is pretty much 100% pavement, 
> hard packed dirt/grass and maybe some maintained gravel roads.  
>
> I did some research today and came up with a list of slick to semi-slick 
> tires in the 47-50mm range.  I'm interested in people's experiences with 
> these tires, both good and bad.  I know Compass are highly regarded but 
> some of these I've heard very little about and a couple I've never heard 
> of.  
>
> WTB Horizon  
>
> Teravail Rampart
>
> Compass  Switchback Hill
>
> Panaracer Gravel King
>
> Schwalbe G-One Speed (50mm)
>
> Maxxis Re-Fuse
>
> Schwalbe Marathon Supreme 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: BLUG S240 Post

[Ed Carolipio]

Yes, pretty sure that's the "Huge Roscoe Mountain Mixte," which 
differentiates it from the "Roscoe Mountain Mixte." (Not gonna link the 
well-actually-that's-a-step-thru-discussion)  Here's a group thread on 
it:

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/Qc-uqULjezA%5B1-25%5D

And here's the geo (h/t Mathy Gierke from the thread):

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AyDOjBqWLs0/WHZ2Mf6lwrI/AjU/MTr0zOjUHTEZe_IBPKOHseN4q125yNhyACLcB/s1600/Huge%2BBosco%2BMixte.JPG


--Ed C.

On Saturday, November 17, 2018 at 5:28:44 PM UTC-8, Doug H. wrote:
>
> Which bike is this?
>

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[RBW] Re: Heads Up: NOS Wilbury on cList

[Ed Carolipio]

(Deep breath)
I own all the bikes I will ever need.
I own all the bikes I will ever need.
I own all the bikes I will ever need.
I own all the bikes I will ever need.

On Wednesday, January 23, 2019 at 9:58:28 AM UTC-8, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> TLDR: 52cm, $2000 
>
>
> https://westernmass.craigslist.org/bik/d/rivendell-mixte-wilbury-glorius-frame/6798662656.html
>  
>
> From the ad: 
> “Rivendell Mixte - Wilbury - Frame & Fork 52 cm New In Box 
>
> I purchased this frame from Rivendell 10 - 12 years ago and never built 
> it. It is a 52 cm mixte and has never had a component mounted on it except 
> for the headset which was installed by Rivendell. I have since purchased 
> another Rivendell mixte (Yves Gomez) and no longer have a need for the 
> original mixte. 
>
> Rivendell had one run of these bikes built by Toyo of Japan. They were 
> badged either Glorius or Wilbury -- this is a Wilbury. Future runs were 
> never done because of the expense and subsequent mixte production was moved 
> to Taiwan. 
>
> This bike is known for its exquisite lugs. See the pictures. 
>
> Frame size is 52cm. Wheel size is 650b. 
>
>
> Located in Suffield CT -- 2 miles south of Six Flags and the Mass line.”

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[RBW] Re: Hillborne dropbar, bar-ends: Cross shifter housings then cables?

[Ed Carolipio]

Hey Pancake, I got curious about your setup and clicked the link but that 
folder is private. Just checking if you meant to do that. (If so, I'll send 
a separate request for permission to view.)

Thanks again for sharing.

--Ed C.

On Thursday, January 17, 2019 at 5:00:17 PM UTC-8, Pancake wrote:
>
> Didn’t cross the cables, here’s the final result (switched from Boscos to 
> Dirt Drop bars): 
>
> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-2zBoYVScBApm9PO7Ym0_BgB8bg6CKxZ 
>
> This was my first time using twine and it was really just practice; I’ll 
> swap to Newbaum’s tape after I confirm that the levers are where I like. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Seeking recommendations for transporting multiple bikes in minivan

[Ed Carolipio]

Three full size bikes inside an Odyssey with room for a passenger may be 
... challenging. Doing so will probably require some minor disassembly to 
get done.

DarinM suggests removing the front wheel. Maybe use something like this:

https://deltacycle.com/bike-hitch-pro

to keep the bikes upright. Either create a "custom" interior rack to line 
up the bikes or just put the hitch on a piece of plywood to help keep the 
bike upright.

Another suggestion is to turn the stem so the handlebars are parallel to 
the frame, which may buy you some left-right room in the cargo area. With 
the Boscos, it might be a good idea to tilt the bars down as well, I've 
done similar things with handlebars when stuffing a bunch of bikes in a 
patio shed for storage.

I'd go remove the pedals while I'm at it. It takes a minute a side to 
remove or install, but makes playing bike tetris a lot easier.

Last suggestion: use furniture blankets between the bikes to prevent dings 
and scratches as you're racking them together. Harbor Freight sells the big 
ones for less than $9 each.

Good luck,
Ed C.

On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 7:23:13 AM UTC-8, Lynne wrote:
>
> I'm hoping the Riv group brain-trust can help me out with ideas. We're 
> planning to take 3 bikes on a road trip in our Honda Odyssey - with 3 
> people and luggage for a week-long vacation. No bike rack and we want the 
> bikes inside the vehicle. Anyone have a suggestion for compactly, yet 
> safely, packing the 3 bikes into the minivan while leaving space for other 
> items, including at least one (better yet, both) second row seats? FWIW, 
> one is a Sam Hillborne, currently with fenders and wide Bosco handlebars, 
> one bike is an XO-3 with pretty wide handlebars, and the third is a Salsa 
> with drop bars. Thanks for any and all suggestions!
>

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[RBW] Re: How to select a Brooks saddle

[Ed Carolipio]

I had a similar experience with the C17: I tried it on my Appaloosa with 
Albatross and it was only ok for short distances. I put the C17 on a 
Roadini with drops and it's excellent there. I now have a B17 Standard on 
the Appaloosa.

I saw Will's statement on the carved saddle and, though I haven't made the 
leap of getting a carved C17, I would tend to agree with him based on my 
experiences. I was reluctant to go to a C19 because the sit bone width 
wasn't a problem with the C17.

--Ed C.

On Wednesday, December 19, 2018 at 9:50:38 AM UTC-8, Tim Bantham wrote:
>
> Will's recent Email about selecting a Brooks has me thinking about trying 
> a Cambium again. I've tried the Cambium C17 in the past. At first I liked 
> it well enough but that changed the first time I had to do a long ride. I 
> ride my Sam with Alba's and Appaloosa with Billie's. I would say that my 
> position on the bike is upright-ish. Over the course of a longer ride I 
> found that the C17 was downright painful. Specifically, my sit bones 
> started to feel like it was grinding into the top of the saddle with every 
> pedal stroke. 
>
> Has anyone tried a C17 a found that you didn't like it but later had 
> success with another Cambium model? Will had said that the slotted version 
> of the C17 is way better than the non-slotted version. I also heard that 
> the C19 was the way to go. I am skeptical of the C19 because I just don't 
> know if my position is considered to up right enough to warrant a much 
> wider saddle then I have ridden in the past. I realize that one's saddle 
> choice is far from a one size fits all approach. I thought I'd ask for 
> other users experiences as a starting point before I explore trying a 
> Cambium again. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
>
> Tim
>

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[RBW] Re: Stem and Bar for Roadini

[Ed Carolipio]

Congrats. I'm on the bottom end of the sizing on my 51cm Roadini and I too 
don't like to be too stretched out.

After lots of experimentation, I ended up with Nitto Noodles and a very 
short 50mm stem. (I started at 80mm and went shorter by 10mm increments. As 
others have noted on the board, I didn't put handlebar tape until I settled 
on a stem length...) I was worried about poor handling with having such 
short stem on a road bike, but that doesn't seem to be a factor. I ended up 
using a Nitto Technomic stem - not many options for 50mm, 26.0 quill stems 
- but I couldn't get it low enough to be comfortable so I ended up cutting 
it down by an inch or so.

A note on the Cowbells vs the Noodles. I came to road bars later in life so 
I found the Noodles have much longer ramps than Cowbells. I tended to ride 
Cowbells "on the hoods" but switched to riding "on the ramps" with the 
Noodles.

--Ed C.

On Wednesday, December 19, 2018 at 6:18:02 AM UTC-8, Dave Grossman wrote:
>
> So I finally got a Roadini frameset!  I have most everything I will need 
> for the build except for a stem and bars.  I would love some 
> recommendations from you "Roadies" on bars and a stem.  I went with a 61 on 
> the Roadini even though I am at the bottom end of sizing and I don't want 
> to be very stretched out.  However, given the enormous headtube I'm not 
> sure exactly how things will mock up.  I was looking at getting a 48cm 
> Noodle but if anyone has any other suggestions that would be great.  
>
> For reference, I have always had good success on 44cm Cowbells and 44cm 
> Zipp shallow bars as well.   This is my first venture into Nitto road 
> bars!  
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Plus Rims for GBW

[Ed Carolipio]

Best reference I could find on "safe" rim/tire combos was DT Swiss 
,
 
and a 25mm inner width rim is right at the border for a 2.8" tire. Sadly, 
DT Swiss doesn't offer too many 650b non-disc rims.
>
>
--Ed C.

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[RBW] Re: What is maximum stem height on Joe Appaloosa 51cm?

[Ed Carolipio]

Hi Roberta,

Normally for quill stems we talk about minimum insertion rather than 
maximum height. As long as there's enough stem *inside* the fork steerer 
tube, the stem is okay to be that high.

Remove your stem from the steerer tube and see if there is an etched 
marking on the middle of the stem. It should read "Min Insert" or something 
similar, and be pointing to a line or a series of vertical hashes that goes 
around the stem. (I tried to point that out in the photo of the Nitto 
Technomic below but you need to zoom and look in the dark area for the 
etching.)  As long as that line is hidden by the top steerer nut, the stem 
should be secure in the steerer tube.

AFAIK the Technomic is the tallest quill stem with a long (90mm or greater) 
reach that is available. There are variable angle stems and the Dirt Tourer 
stem which can be taller but have much shorter effective reach.

--Ed C.

[image: SM1161-01.jpg]


 

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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: 2 Gus Boots For Sale on Riv Site

[Ed Carolipio]

When I was asking about the prototype, Will said one of the changes on the 
updated frames was to move the brake posts - I forget which direction - to 
make the frame "work better" with a 2.8" tire and V-brakes. As a guess, 
V-brake reach may have been an issue - my complete came with CX-50s and 
straddle cable/carrier instead of the stock fixed straddle cable thingy -  
which they addressed with the updated design.

--Ed C.


On Wednesday, March 27, 2019 at 9:24:28 AM UTC-7, Ryan M. wrote:
>
> Can owners comment on the wider tires with the cliffhanger rims and v 
> brake arms?  Does the roundness of the tire and having a further reach for 
> the brake pad to contact the rim seem to interfere at all with the v brake 
> arms? 
>
>>


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[RBW] Re: FS: Roscoe Bubbe Step Thru

[Ed Carolipio]

Sale is pending payment.

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[RBW] Re: Why I’m excited for Boots, GBW

[Ed Carolipio]

Congrats as well! Looking forward to your comparisons with the 
Hunqapillar/beam.

--Ed C.

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[RBW] Re: Brake Boss Prep? (new frame)

[Ed Carolipio]

Hi John,

I don't think so. Do you have your cantis handy? I checked a set of cheap-o 
Tektro Oryx's I have on a shelf and the brake arm rides on an inner metal 
tube, not the boss, and this tube would remain fixed relative to the boss. 
The CX50s on my bike is built similarly but I couldn't verify without 
removing it. 

--Ed C.

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[RBW] Re: To Helmet or not

[Ed Carolipio]

> To some, it seems against the standard Rivendell ethos to wear a helmet. 

I think you're misinterpreting the ethos. The ethos is closer to: it's an 
individual choice; respect the choice of others; and remember bike helmets 
may not work as well as you think they would.

Grant covers the topic in Chapter 23 of Just Ride and talks about the "Moe" 
helmet in Chapter 26. He discusses it a bit in this interview (need to 
search for "helmet"): 
http://cycloculture.blogspot.com/2012/07/grant-petersen-on-just-ride.html

--Ed C.

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[RBW] 26" Clem Smith Jr Wheelset - $90+ship

[Ed Carolipio]

These are stock wheels for the Clem Smith Jr that Riv used to sell separate 
from the complete. The rim is Alex DM24 but I don't know the provenance of 
the spoke, spoke nipples, or the hub. (Others in the group may know...) The 
spokes are straight gauge, the spoke nipples are multicolored alloy, and 
the hubs are cup-and-cone with a "Clem" label on the outside. Has rim tape 
installed but no skewers included.

   - Spacing: 100mm Front/135mm Rear
   - Rim Diameter: 559 (26")
   - Rim Width: 32mm Outer/24mm Inner
   - Spoke Count: 32h Front/36h Rear
   - Freehub Compatibility: 8/9/10 speed Shimano/SRAM

The wheelset is a couple of years old, just used around the neighborhood 
and for not many miles. Sorry, didn't weigh them, but I'd guess they're on 
the heavy side. I switched them out since I'm installing an Xtracycle Leap 
on the Clem and got a new wheelset for that project.

Photos available here: 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1o1DzrM3za4YdArvKZfKBggLBOTPJpD4Z

Price for wheelset is $90 + Bikeflights, Paypal G preferred (I'll cover 
fees). Shipping will be from 90278, I estimated to be no more than $38. 
Local meetup in south west Los Angeles (LAX/Torrance/Long Beach) would 
work, too.

PM if interested, or if you have questions.


Thanks,
Ed C.

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Road Re-Build

[Ed Carolipio]

Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to seeing the completed project. (And 
can you teach my neighbors how to flatten boxes before putting them in the 
recycling bin? None of them seemed to have learned this important life 
skill...)

--Ed C.

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[RBW] Re: The Buffalo Bike

[Ed Carolipio]

I learned something new today, thanks for sharing. I notice a unicrown fork 
as well: what blasphemy is this? That extended seat tube above the top tube 
is characteristic of the Surly MTB tourers, like the Troll and Ogre. 
Difference is Surly puts a brace between the seat and top tube, then mates 
the chainstays level with the top tube.

--Ed C.

On Thursday, March 28, 2019 at 9:37:39 AM UTC-7, Marty Gierke, Stewartstown 
PA wrote:
>
> For the old timers in the Bunch, or those who have read every Reader, 
> issue #34 introduces a model called the Buffalo that made it to a prototype 
> stage in 2005. Yes, it even had a rear disc brake and provision for a front 
> disc! The horror! Designed for what we often call Clydesdales, but those 
> are beautiful animals, no better nor worse than racing thoroughbreds. Would 
> love to have seen a Buffalo badge in the style of Hunqapillar and 
> Appaloosa. 
>
> [image: Buffalo.jpg]
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Need help with front derailleur adjustment

[Ed Carolipio]

As others have pointed out, a cable/housing swap should not involve *any* 
adjustments to the derailleur itself. May be too late but I hope you let 
the FD be...

My guess is you don't have enough cable throw to get the FD onto the big 
ring. Some things that could be:

   - Shifter cable housing with internal damage so that it 
   deflects/compresses too much under tension
   - Too much slack while in the small ring
   - Incorrectly re-assembled shifter so shifter doesn't move to longest 
   possible throw position. (I've done that on a Shimano bar end, where I 
   installed the mating washer at a 90 degree offset. I don't know if that's 
   possible on yours though.)
   - Incorrectly mounted shifter cable on front derailleur, reducing the 
   leverage on the FD arm. (Joe B. pointed it out, but for me looking at your 
   photos it seems to be routed correctly. You didn't give the model number on 
   your FD so guessing it's a CX-70 or equivalent. Here's the instructions 
   with a picture showing the cable routing to the FD: 
   https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-5MW0A-002-ENG.pdf.)

Good luck,
Ed C.

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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: 2 Gus Boots For Sale on Riv Site

[Ed Carolipio]

The market for a 35mm ID rim with a brake track is tiny - can't think of 
any other rim brake plus bikes - but there might be interest in a 28-30mm 
ID one. That rim flattens out 55mm tires and matches up well with a 60mm 
tire - which is Clem, fenderless Joe, and old school MTB territory. 
(fAtlantis too?)

I don't want to re-litigate the disc vs rim thing. Let me just say I 
understand now the decision to go with rim brakes on the GBW. The frame has 
ride characteristics that's waaay different than the disc brake equipped 
rigid MTBs I've ridden, and I'm convinced at least some of that comes from 
designing a mass produced frame to withstand the stresses of a rim brake 
instead a disc one.

-Ed C.

On Thursday, March 28, 2019 at 8:37:57 PM UTC-7, PaulS wrote:
>
> For this type of a bike, I’m fine with the rim brakes. There are plenty of 
> disc 27.5 plus bikes out there. Ogre, ECR, Jones, Tumbleweed, Crust, etc. 
>
> What Riv NEEDS to do is come out with some 30-35mm ID rims. Maybe 
> collaborate with Velocity. 

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[RBW] Re: Spring Cleaning

[Ed Carolipio]

Thanks for posting. So, so purty.

--Ed C.

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[RBW] Re: 26" Clem Smith Jr Wheelset - $90+ship

[Ed Carolipio]

Sold pending shipment. Thanks for looking.

--Ed C.

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Re: [RBW] Re: PSA: 2 Gus Boots For Sale on Riv Site

[Ed Carolipio]

Ah, I see I am not the only ed obsessing over narrow non-disc rims with 
27.5+ tires...

The Cliffhanger has an interior width of 25mm. The bike came stock with 
Cliffhangers and 2.8" G-One Allrounders, so my guess is folks on the board 
who've demoed this Gus at Riv and had All-Rounders also had the same rim. I 
did a casual road ride with that setup with no issues, though I do worry if 
I do anything on the trails the tires would get squirmy. I was monitoring 
the GBW thread and that seemed to be a consensus opinion.

Would be curious to hear about from GBW owners on what riding the 
aggressively was like. (Sadly, I won't get a chance to do that anytime 
soon, otherwise I'd report on it.) Also appreciate any leads on a 650b rim 
with a brake track and an internal width closer to 30mm...


--Ed C.


On Tuesday, March 26, 2019 at 7:23:22 PM UTC-7, ed wrote:
>
> Hi Ed!,
> Would you mind sharing the rim size of the Cliffhanger of your GBW?
> Thanks :-)
>
> On Wed, Mar 27, 2019 at 10:00 AM Ed Carolipio  > wrote:
>
>> I had/have (still packing it for sale) a 51cm Joe. I got the Small GBW 
>> prototype and adjusted it into "commuter mode" recently. Key build 
>> differences with the Joe vs GBW: 55cm Albas with a 9cm Nitto Technomic stem 
>> vs 710mm Jones Loop with a 30mm Spank stem; 2.0" Marathon Supremes on VO 
>> Diagonales vs 2.35" G-One Speeds on Velocity Cliffhangers; and Sugino XD600 
>> cranks vs Silver cranks. Everything else is roughly the same, and I ride 
>> the same urban, all pavement route with the same load to work.
>>
>> The one sentence summary on the GBW: there's no mistaking it's a mountain 
>> bike. It may have a rack and notionally street tires, but the ride rhymes 
>> with all the mountain bikes I've owned. I read all of that Mongolian riding 
>> stuff that Grant wrote about and thought, yeah, sure, Grant, whatever, 
>> you're the crazy man riding into chest deep pools of water in your 
>> Ethiopian shoes, but after riding the GBW I kinda get what he's saying. 
>>
>> I also like the swoopy top tube since I can mount the bike without having 
>> to swing my leg over the seat and standover is one less thing to worry 
>> about when the terrain gets uneven or when tackling a challenging part of a 
>> trail.
>>
>> For me, I picked the GBW over the Joe because I wanted a mountain bike 
>> that I could commute with during the week, and I like the ride of fat 
>> tires. The GBW will likely outshine the Joe on single track while lightly 
>> loaded, while the Joe would outperform the GBW when hauling a load or 
>> pounding out miles on maintained gravel roads.
>>
>>
>> --Ed C.
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 26, 2019 at 11:31:38 AM UTC-7, Jonathan D. wrote:
>>>
>>> Thoughts on how the Gus’ ride will compare to the Joe and Atlantis?  I 
>>> don’t have a sense of the geometry differences beyond the fat whee options. 
>>
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[RBW] Re: FS: Roscoe Bubbe Step Thru

[Ed Carolipio]

Frame set is sold and making its way to its new owner. Thanks all for 
looking.

--Ed C.

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[RBW] Re: PSA: 2 Gus Boots For Sale on Riv Site

[Ed Carolipio]

I had/have (still packing it for sale) a 51cm Joe. I got the Small GBW 
prototype and adjusted it into "commuter mode" recently. Key build 
differences with the Joe vs GBW: 55cm Albas with a 9cm Nitto Technomic stem 
vs 710mm Jones Loop with a 30mm Spank stem; 2.0" Marathon Supremes on VO 
Diagonales vs 2.35" G-One Speeds on Velocity Cliffhangers; and Sugino XD600 
cranks vs Silver cranks. Everything else is roughly the same, and I ride 
the same urban, all pavement route with the same load to work.

The one sentence summary on the GBW: there's no mistaking it's a mountain 
bike. It may have a rack and notionally street tires, but the ride rhymes 
with all the mountain bikes I've owned. I read all of that Mongolian riding 
stuff that Grant wrote about and thought, yeah, sure, Grant, whatever, 
you're the crazy man riding into chest deep pools of water in your 
Ethiopian shoes, but after riding the GBW I kinda get what he's saying. 

I also like the swoopy top tube since I can mount the bike without having 
to swing my leg over the seat and standover is one less thing to worry 
about when the terrain gets uneven or when tackling a challenging part of a 
trail.

For me, I picked the GBW over the Joe because I wanted a mountain bike that 
I could commute with during the week, and I like the ride of fat tires. The 
GBW will likely outshine the Joe on single track while lightly loaded, 
while the Joe would outperform the GBW when hauling a load or pounding out 
miles on maintained gravel roads.


--Ed C.

On Tuesday, March 26, 2019 at 11:31:38 AM UTC-7, Jonathan D. wrote:
>
> Thoughts on how the Gus’ ride will compare to the Joe and Atlantis?  I 
> don’t have a sense of the geometry differences beyond the fat whee options. 

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[RBW] Re: Recommendations for satellite mapping thing

[Ed Carolipio]

My experience with a dedicated GPS (Garmin 810, Garmin GPSMAP 62) for 
biking is they're great for recording your ride and for finding out where 
you are, but are poor in terms of dynamic routing and way finding, even 
with screens and stored map info. (The 810 assumes I'm a car, and routes me 
as one...) I'd always augment the GPS with "something else" like Google 
Maps or ridewithgps.com as other people have noted. I especially like 
Deacon's approach with paper/weatherproof maps for trailblazing in the 
wilderness, which I'd couple with paper, sharpie, and a handlebar clip to 
create route sheets on the fly for trail markers and turnoffs. In the city, 
I take the time to stop and use a smartphone to do the routing, and 
sometimes use Google Streetview to check if a route is too sketchy for a 
bike or if there are pedestrian shortcuts available since, as I said, all 
that dynamic routing software assumes I'm a car.

For the kind of riding you're planning to do, I'd recommend a Garmin 
handheld used for hiking like the eTrex 20 (for something elegant) or the 
GPSMAP 64 (for something that's absolutely bulletproof) coupled with a RAM 
mount (https://www.rammount.com/). (H/T Vikapproved - 
https://vikapproved.wordpress.com/2013/11/04/garmin-etrex-20-review/) These 
can work as bike computers with the mount, and are useful on a hike as 
well. Both have displays that give you a rough idea of where you are 
relative to trails so you can find your "solved" location on a larger paper 
map.

A note on digital maps: I'm not familiar with Wahoo, but stock maps on 
Garmin's hikers are normally low resolution. Map resolution isn't so 
important for road maps but extremely so for topography maps. (In the city, 
most navigation algorithms assume you're going to be on a road.) Garmin 
does have higher resolution maps 
(https://www.garmin.com/en-US/maps/outdoor) for a price beyond the unit - 
kinda cheesy but people recommend to budget for both the unit and the topo 
map of the region you're interested in when shopping. If the extra cost of 
topo maps is an issue, there are open source topo maps available for 
download onto the Garmins - see https://www.gpsfiledepot.com/ - but that 
requires a bit of work and experimentation to get up and running. For road 
maps on the 810, I use an OpenStreetsMap - http://garmin.openstreetmap.nl/ 
- of my region.

On uploading your rides, for Garmin they have a free site called "Garmin 
Connect" which can be linked to other sites 
(https://connect.garmin.com/en-US/) to record and analyze your rides. I 
upload the rides from my 810 to my Garmin Connect account, then the Garmin 
Connect pushes those out to my Strava and ridewithgps.com accounts 
automagically. The upload can be done via a USB cable on the computer and a 
web browser; alternatively, for models with Bluetooth, that can be done by 
syncing through an app on a smartphone which happens automatically when the 
unit connects to the phone and the phone has a connection to the internet.

--Ed C.

On Monday, February 18, 2019 at 6:38:42 PM UTC-8, Drw wrote:
>
> I know nothing about garmin things or other things that do mapping for 
> hiking/biking, though I’m moderately tech savvy in other areas of my life. 
> I’m finding myself very overwhelmed by online information 
> I’m looking for something that can: 
>
> -show a map on a screen but not need internet 
> -locate current actual location 
> -show trails as well as paved roads 
> -show elevation 
> -be no larger than a smartphone 
> -be charged via usb 
>
> It would also be cool if it could sync to something in a way that could 
>
> -provide directions in either step by step or linear format. 
> -link to an online history of rides and routes 
>
> Any direction of where to look and what to look at would be appreciated. 

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[RBW] Re: Bosco bars grip suggestions

[Ed Carolipio]

I started with a single layer cloth tape before going on a grip journey::

   - Rivbike Dutch paddle - too small for my hands
   - Cylindrical MTB grip with a lock-on screw, like the Lizard Skins 
    - this one worked well too, but a 
   bit short lenghtwise to cover the generous grip area on the Boscoes
   - ESI Chunkys Extra Long size - a little too thick for my hands, 
   difficult to take off/on
   - ODI Longneck Grips in superlong size - really like the length for 
   variety in hand position but a bit squirmy when stand-up pedaling

Next step on my grip journey is the superlong Kraton grips from Jones bikes 
, which would be firmer 
than the ODI ones while preserving the front-to-back variety in hand 
positions. I think the "Riv padded cloth tape grip" would be a good option 
but I don't have firsthand experience to comment.

--Ed C.

On Thursday, February 21, 2019 at 2:33:23 PM UTC-8, OwenS wrote:
>
> Hi all, I posted this before but I used an emoji so perhaps it didn't get 
> approved? 
>
> After some ideas on suggestions for grips for the bosco bars. Has anyone 
> tried cloth bar tape on the bosco bar? Cheers!

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[RBW] Re: Indexing 10sp big cassette

[Ed Carolipio]

I seem to recall - but can't find the reference - that Shimano cable pulls 
for road/MTB rear derailleurs/shifters were incompatible starting with the 
10 speed groups, and continuing with 11sp and 12sp. Here's the Shimano 
cross compatibility chart (see pg 5 for MTB RDs and pp.15 and 16 for road 
RDs): http://productinfo.shimano.com/download/pdf/com/2.7/en

The model for the Microshift shifter is SL-M10 MTB. I've used that as 
indexed on an SLX 10 speed RD.

--Ed C.

On Friday, February 22, 2019 at 6:15:39 PM UTC-8, Drw wrote:

> I’m not the best mechanic, but I’ve been able to set up 8 and 9 speed 
> shifters in friction and index mode just fine. This thing is hurting me 
> though. Setup: 
> -1x10 
> -11x42 or something like that sunrace cassette 
> -newer xt shadow derailleur with wolftooth roadlink 
> -dura ace 10 speed shifter on Paul thumbie 
>
> Previously, I had this bike in friction mode, but on the high gears, I 
> couldn’t get the chain to stay on one ring, lots of ghost shifting. So I 
> got a 10 speed index shifter, put it on and can’t get it to shift remotely 
> well. The three big low gears are fine but the bottom/high 7 are all over 
> the place. The weirdest part is that when I set it up, it sits in the 
> highest gear fine, but as I shift around and play with it, it won’t go back 
> to that gear, and as I play with it more, it won’t even go into the second 
> highest gear. When I unclamp the cable, it resets and goes back into the 
> high gear. The other weird thing is that the limit screws don’t hit the 
> piece they are supposed to to make adjustments. They are super far away and 
> barely touch when fully screwed in.  Maybe this is a result of the 
> roadlink? 
> I’m about to just buy an 8 speed cassette and go friction, but if anyone 
> has any advice I’d love to hear it. 
>

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[RBW] Re: Balance Bikes for Bouncing Babies

[Ed Carolipio]

We got the Yuba Flip Flops 
 for our twins 
which they rode from when they were a 22 months until they outgrew them at 
4.5 years old. I thought the tires were plastic but actually they're some 
weird foamposite thing that wears in when the kids used them a little. Not 
good for off road, though.

I got the Islabike Cnoc 16s 
 on a great deal when 
Islabikes left the US, and these have some small knobbies that can used off 
road. The pedals + handbrake were a challenge so I yanked the pedals and 
they used them as larg-ish balance bikes for a while. At 5, one twin now 
pedals on her own but the other isn't ready so he uses it as a balance bike 
still.

--Ed C.

On Sunday, March 10, 2019 at 8:24:10 PM UTC-7, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> Hey folks- 
> I want to look at a balance bike for my daughter. Lots of choices out 
> there and want to get one that can grow with her for a reasonably long 
> amount of time. It’d be nice to be able to have the same bike transition 
> with her to be able to ride a bit on the dirt since we have great flat-ish 
> areas in the dirt to practice here.
>
>  Any thoughts on brands or models?
> How old were they and how long had your kid been walking before going to a 
> balance bike?
> Any tips?
>
> Justin
>

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[RBW] Re: New garage sale bikes, including Gus, Homer, and Cheviot!

[Ed Carolipio]

Gotta catch them all? Thanks for posting. Will says some of those prices 
may not be live just yet... (1518 Pacific)

--Ed C.

On Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at 2:56:12 PM UTC-8, tc wrote:
>
> Go get'em!  
> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/web-special-framesets-and-bicycles
>

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[RBW] Re: Bar tape color recommendation

[Ed Carolipio]

I've really liked to combine brighter orange with the light blue ever since 
I saw the color combo on a limited edition Mini Cooper.


-Ed C.










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[RBW] Re: First Rivendell — sizing question

[Ed Carolipio]

Just wanted to note that using a bike through multimodal transport isn't 
driven by the weight of the frame so I advise against using that factor to 
make a final decision.

Also, if you're considering the (now retired Soma) San Marcos, I suggest 
also considering the (mostly retired) Roadini as well. No 57cms on 
rivbike.com, but check these boards as they do come up for sale or call Riv 
since sometimes they have stock which they haven't posted.

Finally, I agree with other folks who've said to go bigger when in between 
two sizes.

--Ed C.

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[RBW] Re: Suggestions for best cycling shades?

[Ed Carolipio]

The Smith Pivlock Overdrive works really well for my very East Asian face: 
https://www.smithoptics.com/us/c/PivLock%E2%84%A2-Overdrive/p/OVPCDMMOB 
Lightweight, 
swappable lenses, and has really good grip when wet with sweat. Currently 
on my second pair.

I also ran the Oakley half jacket "Asian fit" for a long time: 
https://www.oakley.com/en-us/product/W0OO9153 IMO that sits better on the 
nose than the Smiths but they're a bit heavier and slips more when wet than 
the Smiths.


--Ed C.

On Wednesday, June 5, 2019 at 1:52:24 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Asking on the RBW list after having asked on the Boblist, in case this 
> list has cycling glasses periti who don't read the Boblist.
>
> I've been using 2 pr Tifosi shades. One is photochromatic, and that one 
> seems to block the wind sufficiently to keep my eyes from turning red after 
> 10 miles; it also stays put securely on my Asian-ish* nose. But this pair 
> doesn't get dark enough for our mile-high sun in mid summer at noon -- when 
> the light makes the Santa Monica boardwalk at summer noon feel like the 
> winter solstice, and I'm not kidding. I use this pair on cloudy days and at 
> night.
>
> The other pair is also Tifosi, and dark enough, and this is my go-to pair, 
> but it doesn't block the wind sufficiently, and it doesn't stay on my nose. 
> This pair may be older, as it was at least second hand, original source 
> unknown. My eyes turn red, especially on windy days which kick up dust and 
> pollen; out here, we don't have twee little green grass verges, the sides 
> of the roads are gravel and sand.
>
> I realize that, after saddles and bars, shades are probably the most 
> personal choice in riding kit, but can anyone, particularly anyone of east 
> Asian ancestry, suggest some options?
>
> I'd happily ride bare-eyed, but again, dust and pollen and wind make that 
> impractical.
>
> Thanks
>
>
> *Filipino with a bit of Chinese and even a dash (so I was told) of Arab, 
> plus Scots Irish English.
>
> -- 
>
>
>
>
> **
>
>
>
>
>
> *Still 'round the corner there may waitA new road or a secret gate,And 
> though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take the 
> hidden paths that runTowards the Moon or to the Sun.*
> --- J.R.R. Tolkien
> ---
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching
> Other professional writing services
> Expensive! But good.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Has Anyone Rinko'd Their Riv? - Follow Up on Yesterday's Rivendell Email

[Ed Carolipio]

I started looking up this exact thing after reading the newsletter 
yesterday whilst side eying my 47cm MIT Homer. Not specifically for train 
travel in the US, but as an option to pack down a full size bike.

Best (brief) resource I found on the web: 
https://wiki.aalto.fi/download/attachments/110562254/rinko.pdf?version=1=1486045861527=v2.
 
The most useful of Jan's post for me was this one 
,
 
and the Rene Herse rinko parts are here 
.

For my case, I'd get a VO Rinko headset, chain hanger (which Riv sells 
)
 
or a chain keeper (like this one 
),
 
and Ritchey breakaway cable connectors 
.
 (MKS 
sells a line of Ezy Pedals  for 
tool less install and removal, and Russ Roca of Path Less Pedaled mentioned 
an existing MKS pedal can be converted into one.) I'm skipping the fenders 
but Jan has visuals and general guidelines for the mod.

--Ed C.

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[RBW] Re: Gus pre-sale

[Ed Carolipio]

I own a 46 Clem L (with the 26" wheels) and a small proto Gus (TIG welded 
but still 650b wheels). I'd argue there are significant differences between 
them, with my advocating for the GBW if you have the budget and if you plan 
to use it for off road. Deacon Patrick's experiences 
 jibe with mine.

The Clem L is still usable off road, but the GBW feels like it was meant 
for that role, specially over rough single track. I find the GBW frame 
"flexes" in a clever and rather brilliant way that meshes with rider and 
wheels/tires. That's also why I think Grant opted for rim over disc brakes 
(discs would be too stiff in the wrong parts of the frame) and why he wants 
to offer a completely *different* model for lighter riders (no air 
adjustments for preload, no oil or spring to change damping 
characteristics). Read Grant's market copy 
on
 
the GBW: super cheesy but a great description of what it's like to ride the 
bike. The Clem L can do some of that, but not all of it and, as the trail 
gets more challenging, not with the same elan.

--Ed C.

On Saturday, June 15, 2019 at 4:02:22 PM UTC-7, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> I have a bunch of the parts from my Clementine. I am wavering between 
> getting another Clem L frame and fork and getting one of the Hillies. Other 
> than taking a bigger tire and the construction method and the tubing 
> arrangement on top, I wonder how much difference there will be. I would not 
> be using it exclusively off-road, so it would need to roll nicely on 
> blacktop--and with today's tire choices that should not be so difficult. 
>
> I guess my question is other than novel look and somewhat fatter tires, 
> any appreciable differences? And will my first Clem gen Alex rims (650B) be 
> wide enough for a Hillibike?
>

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[RBW] Re: Gus or Susie

[Ed Carolipio]

I have the small GBW prototype and I used to own a Joe. To answer one 
question, no, I don't think the Gus is over built. I'm with Deacon Patrick: 
trust the descriptions which Grant is providing when picking one versus the 
other. For the Gus, his descriptions have been spot on.

As for big loads on a Susie, well, it's never a bad idea to load up a bike 
and head out somewhere...

--Ed C.

On Tuesday, May 21, 2019 at 8:30:52 AM UTC-7, adam parsley wrote:
>
> Grant recommends going with a gus if you are over 165 lbs or under and 
> plan on carrying a full camping load. I have heard from a friend that the 
> atlantis feels a little over built. Has anyone felt that way about the Gus? 
> Would throwing a big load on the susie be a bad idea?
>

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Re: [RBW] Chevoit or Clem jr L

[Ed Carolipio]

One other difference is the Clem has the bolt holes on the fork crown, 
which is useful for bracing a front rack (or running a notionally rear rack 
on the front. That might also mean the front fork on the Clem is a little 
beefier than the Cheviot's.

--Ed C.

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[RBW] Re: New Here. I am thinking of selling my Betty Foy, any advice on value?

[Ed Carolipio]

Hi cinzaw,

I suggest searching the board for comparable bikes that have been posted in 
the past. Use "for sale", "Betty Foy", and "Yves Gomez" as search keywords, 
and look at pricing for completes and frames. Use those prices to inform 
you of how to price your bike initially, though note that the  selling 
price was lower than the posted asking price.

You can also put up a "Feeler" post, which is a request to see if anyone is 
interested in the bike. The post looks almost like a "For Sale" one but 
without a price. Describe the frame (especially size) and the build list. 
Include pictures, a list of defects (primarily on the frame/fork), and the 
approximate age, usage, and condition of the components. Search the board 
using the keyword "Feeler" for how others have done that in the past. You 
might even get an offer you like, and finish a sale that way.

If you do decide to do a FS post, don't be afraid to set a price on the 
high side but do make it clear that you've posted an "asking" price. The 
market will tell you if you set the price too high ... by being silent. If 
that happens, just reply to your post as a "Bump" and indicate the new 
lower asking price in that reply.

Good luck,
Ed C.

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[RBW] Re: A visit to Sea Otter with my Appaloosa

[Ed Carolipio]

Thanks for the story.

We planned a vacation in the area around the same time so I scheduled a fam 
day just to check out the Festival on Thursday. First time for me as well, 
but I didn't bring a bike. Since the focus of the event is racing and not 
adventuring, I thought the bikes and tech on display at the festival were 
in the proper context. There was lots of racing going on but I didn't want 
to bore my kids by dragging them to those things. The major manufacturers 
were essentially displaying FS carbon fiber MTBs and drop bar gravel bikes, 
appropriate for those crowds but not of interest to me. They also had a 
couple of no drop, supported dirt rides - an MTB one and a gravel one - 
that I didn't sign up for but I would gladly have done them at least once.

As Grant has pointed out, manufacturers tilt their marketing toward racing 
- but much of that fancy tech do every day people who don't race and prefer 
to go adventuring actually need? You point out a 12sp hydraulic drive, but 
there were lots of examples of that. 

I did really like being around lots of fans of "riding bikes on dirt" since 
not many of those in my neck of the woods. My 5 year old son got a few laps 
in on the kids demo BMX track on a rigid bike - first time on dirt - and he 
had a blast. And he got to meet Danny McCaskill, so I can look forward to 
all the Ridiculousness videos in 5 years.

It took some hunting but there were several manufacturers who had parts and 
components that might be of interest to folks in this group, and having 
them there meant being able to see those products first hand and ask dumb 
questions. I was at the ODI booth as well, and they had all their grips 
there to try out. Some other booths I visited: Bikeflights ("Why you switch 
to UPS?"); Orange Seal (got to ask tons of questions to their rep); 
Panaracer (colored Gravel Kings!); Silca (demoed the Rolex of bike pumps); 
and Knog (big "Cobber" LED lights that mount onto frame tubes). I also ran 
into Russ and Laura from pathlesspedaled, who have a very Riv like 
perspective on cycling. Here's Russ' latest on Sea Otter 
.

So it was to the level of my expectation and I'm glad I took the time to 
go, but it's probably not a date I'd circle on a calendar or make a 
dedicated trip for.

--Ed C.

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[RBW] Re: Reduced market for used older bikes?

[Ed Carolipio]

Used bike sales are seasonal so that may be a factor in what you've 
observed. I've found the best time to sell bike stuff is in early Spring as 
folks are taking stock of their stables, thinking about what kind of riding 
they're going to do through the fall, and reading up on the new models 
released by the big brands. Winter is the worst time to sell, with fall a 
close second. (There's a small spike around Thanksgiving and early December 
when you can get lucky catching the eyeballs of some wayward Christmas 
shoppers.) If you've got the room, probably best to stash the bike today 
and wait until late Feb/early March to list it again. If it's slow going 
then, I think at that point something else bigger is going on and maybe 
it's time to drive down to the co-op.

I like the point others made about e-bikes as well, though I think the 
impact on the used (non e-bike) market is that tinkerers would be searching 
for models that are easy to convert it into e-bikes. If the used bike or 
frame your selling is conducive to such a conversion - like an old school 
MTB or a Clem L- and it's still not moving, that may also indicate 
something bigger is going on.

--Ed C.

On Saturday, August 31, 2019 at 7:49:54 AM UTC-7, Eric Myers wrote:
>
> I've been working on selling off my older bikes and there just doesn't 
> seem to be any buyers out there.  Riv content is that these are decent 
> steel bikes, from the 80s-90s, still comfortable to ride, with new parts 
> like cables/housing/brake pads, and tuned up so all the remaining older 
> parts work smoothly and reliably.  Most recently I had an early 90s 
> Specialized Hardrock on Craigslist for a month.  When I wasn't even getting 
> any interest calls at $80 I just gave it away instead of dropping the price 
> any further.
>
> Is anyone else experiencing this, or have ideas about what is going on?  
> Is the economy doing too well for people to buy inexpensive used bikes?  Is 
> there less of a market due to Jump and other bike share companies?  At this 
> point I may just donate some of the bikes to the local Bicycle Kitchen 
> instead of tuning them up to sell myself.
>
> Curious in Sacramento,
> Eric
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem L sizing

[Ed Carolipio]

I have a 45 Clem L with a 78 cm PBH. I don't have experience with the 52 
Clem L but had a 51cm Appa that has a similar geometry and 650b wheels.

Compared to the Appa, the 45 Clem L definitely fits smallish (longer/taller 
stem, seatpost pretty extended) and the chainstays are shorter so I had 
issues with heel strike with a couple of racks. On the flip side, the 51cm 
Appa was almost an ideal "riv" fit for me. For most riding, though, 
variables other than frame/wheel size tend to dominate how the handling 
felt. The only exception is at low speed while navigating narrow and tight 
spaces in urban areas. In that case, I definitely prefer the 45 Clem L over 
the Appa as I found it easier to execute maneuvers.

--Ed C.

On Friday, September 13, 2019 at 9:16:03 AM UTC-7, Keith Swanson wrote:
>
> I'm interested in people's thoughts on the difference in ride quality 
> between the 45 and 52 Clem L.  I've test ridden the 52 and it was great, 
> but sold out. On a Clem H I would ride a 45 (77 1/2 PBH).  Any advice would 
> be helpful.
>

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[RBW] Re: Creaking + Nitto Noodle stem compatibility

[Ed Carolipio]

> 1. Have any of you experienced this creaking issue with tall quill stems 
adjusted low?


Yes! I've slammed a Technomic in two different Rivs, and got the creaking 
both times. To verify that's the case, just move the stem up about an inch 
or so and ride the bike that way to see if the creaking goes away.


> 2. What shorter stems is the Noodle compatible with?


I ended up just taking a hacksaw to mine. The cut can be made with the stem 
laid flat, and I tried to match how the end is formed, i.e., at an angle 
with a flat portion at the tip. I've had no issues with the stem on the 
Roadini running 44cm Noodles and a robust rider weight of 215 lbs.


--Ed C.

On Saturday, September 14, 2019 at 6:22:01 PM UTC-7, Matt D wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm having some issues with creaking from the cockpit area of my Roadini 
> under side-to-side force. I'm using a Technomic at the moment adjusted very 
> low, 3cm or so above minimum, and I think the play caused by the friction 
> point being so low is causing it - there's a very little bit of visible 
> motion between the stem and steerer tube when I wobble it.
>
> Two questions:
>
> 1. Have any of you experienced this creaking issue with tall quill stems 
> adjusted low? I think that may be the issue but I'm not 100% sure. RBWOB is 
> the place to ask about tall quill stems anyway...
>
> 2. What shorter stems is the Noodle compatible with? Obviously Technomic 
> but I tried to thread another 40cm (this creaky one is 44cm) into a Nitto 
> Dynamic stem with a wider clamp and found the curves are too tight to fit 
> in it. Is the clamp of the Technomic the same as that on the Pearl/NP? Is 
> anyone else running Noodles successfully on other stems shorter than a 
> Technomic?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Selling a frame

[Ed Carolipio]

Agree with Sky, sell it as is. It'll be much easier to move.

--Ed C.

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