Tom Hargrave wrote:
Nope, different flywheel and you can't swap the flywheel because the 300D
flywheel and crank are dynamically balanced together.
The flywheel difference is more of a matter of weight, not size (the the
5-cylinder flywheel is larger, just not in diameter). You can get by
tom savage wrote:
Crack due to price or crack because the ad has scam written all over it?
How about crack because the seller and the car are in Spain with a model of car
that was never sold in the US, attempting to sell the car in the US?
So, completely ignoring the potential scam aspect,
Tom Hargrave wrote:
Wonder what happens to THOSE cats??
If you are attempting to justify ethlyene glycol poisoning as a moral equivalent
to euthanization as a means of population control, I think you've missed the point.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980
Spent Monday hitting the local junkyards looking for a good core OM616 head and
other chance offerings. Not only found a good head, but also found (or believe
I've found after searching through my listmail archives) listmember Eric
Peterson and his 87kmi '85 300CD. Good luck with the
Bob Rentfro wrote:
any other detailing helps/tricks/stuff.
It will take you the better part of a day, but here is the paint regimen I use:
http://www.mbdiesel.net/240Dpaintdetail.html
The results are absolutely phenomenal, and can be maintained with under an
hour's amount of work weekly
Harry Watkins wrote:
Nothing big, I was going to sucker up the money and try a set of Sylvania
Silverstars, one of the tested sets. The other four were: APC Plasma
Ultrs White; GE Nighthawk; Philips Crystal Vision and Wagner TruView.
The Sylvania Silverstars are okay. On the other hand,
Steve Marci wrote:
Attn 123 folks. Is it OK to LIFT under the differential using a floor jack
(and wood block) ??
Yes, it's okay.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
LT Don wrote:
I have learned something then.
There are a couple really nice jack points on w123s depending on need:
Both front tires? Front crossmember.
Both rear tires? Differential.
One front tire? Frame rail behind the factory jack point.
One rear tire? Subframe bushing plate (just
LT Don wrote:
I cheat. Brother-in-law has the keys to the local Goodyear dealership (he is
head mechanic), so when crawl under the car stuff comes up, we just use
the lift.
Me too. A two-post offset screw-type lift makes under-car work a snap. It's
great when you need to do stuff like, oh,
LT Don wrote:
I gotta try that someday. Of course, wife [someone on here best described
it as She Who Must Be Appeased] almost choked when I trailer home the
project, better known as Car Number Four With Three Drivers. ... She's gonna
crap when I buy the Gold Wing this summer and refuse to sell
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Is that at mats place? How big is his shop anyways? Im on the lookout
for one here.
Yes, this was at Mat's shop. Mat is extremely amazing/creative on moving cars
into and out of his shop. Of course, the odd Citroen tends to make one that way...
--
John L.
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
there are no factory v8 sticks
The 3.5L V8 would like a word with you, sir.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Luther Gulseth wrote:
I think he's trying to compete with Kaleb for lowest price and best value.
Maybe just lowest price...
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Luther Gulseth wrote:
true, it is a Vdub
I was implying that the Vdub was of more value than Kleb's usual parts car
specials, not the other way around. ;-)
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
John Berryman wrote:
Now that I'm back from my FEMA deployment in Louisiana,Texas and
Florida, I may have enough time to participate. Time will tell.
If any of you owe me or just wanna send me lots of feel free
to remit payment to me @ PO Box 969 Bolton Landing, NY 12814.
tom savage wrote:
I need to replace a rear wheel bearing on my 300D. Everyone keeps
saying that a dial gauge is needed to properly tension them, but Sears
and AutoZone claim never to have heard of such an animal and I'm not
entirely sure what I need. Is this close?
That is a dial
BillR wrote:
Rusty - Thanks, but I took your advice and ordered one from Kaleb - not
cheaper, though.
Bill, I think you took Kaleb's advice to buy one from Kaleb!
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have a 1983 240D...I replaced the rear window seal my trunk seal is
not leaking.. I have a water leak inside the trunk wall [ behind the seat],
when it rains heavy..Any suggestions ?
Check the taillight seals.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I think it would be nice of some chineese company or whatever licensed
to start making brand new 126's, 123, and even 115's
How soon we forget - the Nigerian scam-artists tried to convince us they were
re-making w123s over 3 years ago. Don't you remember, all of them
tom savage wrote:
Put everything back together and I'm good to go. Go where? I've got a
date in an hour and a black eye and not with those hands hands. But
at least my car works :)
Chicks dig scars. Not sure about black eyes, though.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
RUST WINS
Flawless victory.
F A T A L I T Y .
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Now its time to get a new one. Have fun.
And what was the line on your buddy that rebuilds them? Drop me an e-mail
off-list with his info and particulars. I'm weighing my various options -
rebuild, junkyard, or the aftermarket digital replacement jobby...
--
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I will see if I can dig it up again. Seems like I might have a good one
laying around. Wont be dirt cheap though.
Well, I'd rather go with a properly rebuild unit ($$) or the digital replacement
($$$), versus a used good unit ($). Dirt cheap repairs only get you so
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
yea, a used one, such as mine, is going to run you close to $80 anyways.
Which is a heckuva great price, I might add! But I've long since stopped being
penny-wise and pound-foolish when it comes to my cars. I like driving my cars,
and I like fixing things that
Craig McCluskey wrote:
So how did you tear up a set of motor mounts in 8,000 miles?
By driving like a diesel-mad lunatic.
For some examples: I broke the rear end loose on the wagon at approximately
85mph with a slightly more abrupt than usual lane change. I'm probably 60-75%
through the
OK Don wrote:
I put a new set of motor mounts in my 115 when I installed the
factory crate 617 engine, only to have them collapse immediately with
the engine wieght! I spent several weeks looking for what was hitting
the frame - wouldn't beleive it could be the new mounts. When I
relented and
andrew strasfogel wrote:
I vote for a shorted electric radio antenna. Guess how I know!
I was thinking about that as well, but the antenna was replaced maybe 9 months
ago. Plus, the current drain was still present even with all fuses removed from
the fuse block.
--
John L. Ervine
1981
B Dike wrote:
Apologies for soiling the MB list with Ford drivel, but just wanted to see if
anyone has run across this problem: 94 Taurus w/ AXOD auto transmission,
shifts into all gears with a solid clunk, but if car is stopped, need to race
engine hard to make tranny engage, both
Apparently our '80 300TD is unhappy that I opted to take the Euro 280S out for
the weekend trip to visit with family, and is throwing a bit of a fit.
This morning, I came down to the car and opened the door and had an extremely
dim front cabin light. Uh oh, I think to myself, and - you
Jim Cathey wrote:
The alternator will still charge with a bad diode, but it won't
do it as well as it should. However, an unremoved auxiliary fuse
for the wretched Chrysler ACC is an even more likely suspect.
I'd start there first, actually. These things are notorious
for freezing up and
Kevin wrote:
Given the recent price spike of servos, the price gap isn't all that large
anymore (unless you have a spare servo and send it to the guy kaleb posted).
The price doesn't bother me - it's the fact that it could be sold for
considerably less than a rebuilt servo, but isn't. Oh
Zeitgeist wrote:
I believe a large amount of the dust and other indoor air pollutants
are dead skin and the feces excreted by mites living off the dead
skin. m, that's a pleasant thought.
Let's not forget the mites that live in your eyelashes and hari follicles that
lack an anus, and die
Marshall Booth wrote:
Take it from me Kaleb, 201 5 speeds have a unique balancing disc right
behind the front flex disc. It balances the driveshaft. It is NOT sold
separately. If the disc fails, Mercedes requires that you buy a NEW
front half of the driveshaft and balance disc or a complete
Marshall Booth wrote:
The problem is that these discs are used to balance a particular
driveshaft. If your's doesn't need one and some don't - that's GREAT,
but a driveshaft that's really out of balance will be intolerable (with
vibrations - sometimes really nasty - usually between 40-50
andrew strasfogel wrote:
Since we are discussing front end noises, what might cause a creaking noise
when passing over speed bumps? Car in question is a 1985 300CD with new
shocks, ball joints, upper and lower control arms, etc. - so clean
underneath that you could eat off the bottom of the
Bob Rentfro wrote:
He sprang to his 190D, all Christmas arrayed ,
And they all piled in like Shriners in a parade.
But I heard him exclaim, as I puffed my Christmas cigar,
Happy Christmas to all, and TAKE CARE OF YOUR CARS!
chuckle
A new Christmas classic.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Is your shifter sloppy? If so, your problem is the shifter bushings are
worn and/or missing causing it to not be in the right position for the
lockout switch. Next time it does it, hold the key in the start
position as you move the lever out of park, thru the gears
Luther Gulseth wrote:
When I parked here at work this morning, my mileage read 230032 on the SD.
The 300TD hit 174471 early last week when I pulled into the parking space at
work. Next up will be 175571 in another two to three weeks, but I doubt it'll
strike twice.
--
John L. Ervine
1981
Rusty Cullens wrote:
They are on there, 2nd line.
What about us lowly w116 owners? ;-D
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
LT Don wrote:
What did Roy have, wasn't it a six octave range in his voice?
Three. Which is still incredibly impressive. I _think_ that doesn't include
falsetto, though...
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Tom Reynolds wrote:
I think what he said is that the plates transfer with the car and not the
owner. So, I'd be driving back to Tulsa with GA plates, a Bill of Sale,
and a signed over title. Right? Wrong?
Georgia allows owners to keep the plates for their cars with the option of
Lee Einer wrote:
Just changed out both fuel filters on the 1980 300CD. Cracked open the
banjo nut at the top of the filter and primed as directed. Or so I
thought. *^([EMAIL PROTECTED] thing will not start now.
Air in lines? How to fix?
Crack the steel injector lines and crank the start
Marshall Booth wrote:
OK Don wrote:
Do the Mercedes instructions and mine match even a little bit?
Theirs are longer!
...and has pictures!
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Does anyone know the appropriate job # of the Installation Instructions?
It's for a '78 240D 123.123.12.050680.
Larry,
The job # is 00-212 - Removal and installation of rear engine mount.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD
Sunil Hari wrote:
5-speed Getrag on a 5-cyl.
Datacard says 4-spd gearbox.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
OK Don wrote:
Maybe that's why it's so hard to get into first !!!
Well, once you permanently break that stubborn shift gate, it's easy... :-D
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Mitch Haley wrote:
I haven't heard of (reliably anyway) a non MBZ box on anything
but a 16 valve W201. 2.3-16, Evolution, Evolution II all had Getrag
5sp with 1st gear back and left, 2-5 in an H pattern
Nor I.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
this is waht happens when dallas come to phila...
beer cold
ribs bbqing
potatoe salad...saiding!!!
wood ( for our back yard bond fire) stacked
And, obviously, lots of tasty adult beverages.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
Marshall Booth wrote:
Whoa. I looked and the doors were clearly different, but the moving part
of the glass window MIGHT NOT BE! You need to get someone with a working
EPC to check part numbers.
SORRY.
I took a quick cursory glance, and the windows are indeed different from wagons
to
Christopher McCann wrote:
Diesel himself, according to his two companions, made
a comment that he was threated on the ship...which
explains why he made preparations for his death (like
a person committing suicide might). We aren't going to
know for sure, but it is not at all a rediculous
R A Bennell wrote:
I'm still using Explorer. Have tried it from home and office and no luck
either way. I get through the initial screens but once I get deep enough to
get detail, it says no page available in some spots - like the maintenance
part that deals with oil changes - as I try to answer
Christopher McCann wrote:
Thoughts?
Akroyd's engine was designed to run on vaporized fuel, while Diesel's engine
used liquid injected directly into the combustion chamber. They are both
compression-ignition engines, but the mechanics involved are different.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D
David Brodbeck wrote:
Kerosene or alcohol burners were common ignition heat sources in early
engines. They were used to heat hot tube ignitions in very early
gasoline engines (before spark ignition). Hot tubes were also used in
place of glow plugs on some early diesels. Obviously this was
ernest breakfield wrote:
the geometry involved seemed obvious to me (and you, apparently); but that
didn't seem apparent to a poster who implied that the weight in the trunk
was like a passengers weight in the rear seat,... that's why i thought it
necessary and appropriate to be specific and
Bob Rentfro wrote:
Kaleb stated:
yea, you have the dreaded type 2 cc
I know...I hate it. Wasn't there some young, brainiac dude that was working
on a viable replacement for this HVAC hell? I hope he is having sucess.
Yeah, but it costs as much as a new servo.
Honestly, I feared the things
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I have a line on a dude that will rebuild your servo for around $200 I
believe if anybody is interested.
Next question: what internal bits are replaced as part of the rebuild?
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S
Holy crap, that sounds like a great deal!
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
here is the email I got from the dude, no affiliation etc:
Kaleb,
I completely dismantle the units, clean, examine,evaluate and
ultimately replace all worn components...I also effect specific
modifications to the main
Kevin wrote:
There are those that will just say to hit the delete button.
Yeah, please do. That's partly why it's there.
While this is
a luxury for people that receive messages one at a time, this isn't exactly
an option for people on digest.
The digest people can scroll through it.
Favorite
Local
Auto
Parts
Store
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FLAPS
Ron Dwelle wrote:
Okay, I give up. What's a FLAPS?
Ron Dwelle
On Oct 26, 2005, at 3:57 PM, Potter, Tom E wrote:
Your FLAPS should have it. I got mine at O'Reillys.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
Our friend Gabriel would have to be pretty old to have met Georgo Washington.
Richard Smith wrote:
George Washington committed *adultery* with his *slaves* and died of
complications from *VD*. That does not sound to moral or responsible to me.
On 10/25/05, Gabriel S. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Levi Smith wrote:
My 83' 300D has Gabriel's that the previous owner must have put in. What's
the opinion on these?
Garbage, because:
This being my first Benz, I'm thinking it rides about like it should (kind of
big and smooth, kinda like a boat), but I wouldn't mind a lot of firming up.
I
redghost wrote:
Maybe I should just cast swine and see what becomes of them. No doubt
I will not get a silk purse. Will surely get a two bit opinion. As
long as it stays civil, will not have to move to banned with it
I think you are mixing your metaphors.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
What they said. I think the Bilstein pleasure rated shocks can be had for
$49 each, change the front two first if money is tight. You DO NOT want the
heavy duty or sport. You will get a lifetime guarantee.
I personally prefer the Bilstein Heavy Duty shocks over
Hendrik Riessen wrote:
While we are talking ebay, check out # 4580031711 Is this a factory job or
aftermarket angle grinder conversion?
Should've been a coupe, prior to the application of a Sawzall.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S
Nick Gough wrote:
How does biodiesel fare during the winter months? Won't it gel a lot faster? If
so, there will be a huge boost in anti-gel additive sales. A friend is buying a
1993 300D (2.5L turbo) and wants to use 100% biodiesel in it. Will he have to
convert his car over to it? I know
Christopher McCann wrote:
...in people it's called
Krutzfeld-Jacob Disease (spelling certainly wrong)
disease which also has a variant disease.
Creutzfeldt-Jakob Disease. Prions scare me...
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd
Vernon Ritchey wrote:
On my '79 300 TD (617 non turbo) there is a constant oil film on the
front of the engine and also on the alternator. What is/are the likel;y
causes, front main seal?
Kinda like this, or perhaps a little less of a film?
Nah, valve cover gasket split on the front edge, spewing oil into the fan. At
least the engine bay will never rust!
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
dude, you blew an oil it look like.
John Ervine wrote:
Kinda like this, or perhaps a little less of a film?
http://www.mbdiesel.net
Harry wrote:
dude, someones not changing their oil like they should. shame on you :p
Yeah I know. Someone clued me in that it's supposed to come out of the bottom
with the motor off, not from the top with the motor running!
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980
Bill Gallagher wrote:
For if situation, President G.W.Bush said three week before the next
Presidential national on TV, that Intelligence reports from the CIA and
Homeland Security indicate a attack on the USA to disrupt the election
like in Spain three years ago. And to save American
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The constant reporting drives me nuts!
That's why you are deaf in the right ear to begin with! Can't she see that
she's contributing to the problem? ;-)
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
tom savage wrote:
Is there a simple seal in there or a bearing to keep the fluid in?
There's the front seal on the input shaft...
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
Sunil Hari wrote:
Jim called me again - he said that he and Tom have figured out that
the tranny leak is coming from the torque converter.
Solutions?
Suggestions?
According to Tom, it was coming through the grill below the TC. That's usually
one of couple things - loose bolts or bad front
Zeitgeist wrote:
That thing's an embarassment...not unlike the new R-Class rolling
turd. What the hell's gone wrong with German designers these
days? They used to be so reliably solid and distinctive, now
they're all agog over weird arcs and pointless embellishments. Sad
I like to call
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://www.autobild.de/projektor/projektor.php?artikel_id=8186pos=12
It looks like a Chrysler Pacifica got drunk and knocked up a Chevy Trailblazer.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My 83 240D (235K) after idling poorly for a month is now running on 3 cylinders.
Before an Italian Tune-up would help the problem has continued and was
intermittent until now.
First of all, welcome to the 1.8L 240D club!
Valves are adjusted, filters 3 months old,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
BTW I heard our forces in Iraq are trading their 9mm to 45's on their
own dime.
U, no. Do you know how much hell a soldier would catch for trying to
smuggle a personal weapon from here to overseas? And when he runs out of
ammunition, what then? It's not like
Alan Duff wrote:
Just bought a 83 300D. The brake pedal is rock hard and only moves down a
quarter inch or so and the car is slow to stop. The brakes don't seem to
drag. Don't recall having this type of problem before. My thoughts are
1. Stuck piston in a brake caliper
2. Stuck master
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Right turns are a lot safer anyway. Just make three rights and you have
a left. BINGO, no more problem.
This is the best solution.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 267+kmi
1980 300TD 168+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi
BenzBarn wrote:
I'm laughing over here SEE?
My offer still stands - how much for postage?
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 267+kmi
1980 300TD 168+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
BenzBarn wrote:
John?
How much will you give me for this tool? It's not going to be free because
I paid about 300 bucks for it.
You said the tools were unneeded, so I offered to pay shipping to take them off
your hands, remember? Can't have a toolbox cluttered up with unnecessary tools
BenzBarn wrote:
Well, for christs sake I KNOW what the tool is used for and where it's used,
so in fact I'm not incorrect. Know one asked you to be the unofficial
saviour of benz kind.
You have a lot of nerve to call be uncivilized. For a PhD, you have much to
learn
Yet you were talking
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Oil pressure at idle was about .5 bar.
I'm probably going to pass.
Christ, you'd better. That motor is practically done. 5-speed or no, the car
is toast.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 267+kmi
1980 300TD 168+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
Joe Mendyka wrote:
In the past ~2 weeks, if I move my steering wheel at all before
starting, the ignition locks up. I know that this is not uncommon.
However, once it happens, it is almost unmovable. Sometimes it only
takes a few tries but other times it can take 20 minutes of trying to
turn
BenzBarn wrote:
It's never failed for me.
I'm not buying a special tool for a one time job if I can make my own or
improvise. I already have the hydraulic valve adjustment tool that I thought
I so despritatley needed. Sits in the back of the tool box with a bunch of
other '' needed '' tools.
Joe Mendyka wrote:
Ok, I'm gonna go ahead and let my incompetence show through. What is
a tumbler? What does it do? What kind of procedure am I looking at?
The tumbler is what you put the key in. To take it out, you need a paperclip or
very thin jeweler's screwdriver. You'll have it out
Luther Gulseth wrote:
How does one remove/clean the steering lock? My CD had a bad tumbler,
purchased and replaced it, and it still tried to lock on me the first time
I used it. SO I removed the NEW lock and have been screwdrivering it
since till I can pull my parts ignition. TIA,
Marshall Booth wrote:
Tumblers WILL fail quite quickly if there is sufficient weigh hanging on
the key - especially if the car is driven aggressively.
Which is why when I beat the piss out of my cars, I have the lone Mercedes Benz
key in the ignition and acquiesce to being struck by flying
LT Don wrote:
John:
??
WT* is the flying debris stuff?
Anything not secured in the passenger cabin becomes flying debris shortly after
the oil pressure gauge pegs.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 267+kmi
1980 300TD 168+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
Christopher McCann wrote:
What worries me is when the cars that most of us have
are very hard to find (10 years)...then what - a 320
CDI that is wired like the space shittle? (pun
intended). It makes me want to stockpile 300D's for my
kids. oh well. ranting done.
I'd rather the space shuttle.
Mathieu J. Cama wrote:
Seems they are to be disposable just like a good old Bic lighter.
I've had Bic lighters last longer, though.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 267+kmi
1980 300TD 168+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
Rory wrote:
I have found a 77 240D with 150k on it, looking for some info and history.
Could someone run a carfax on this VIN for me please?
12312312040066
It's too old, Rory.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 267+kmi
1980 300TD 168+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
Rory wrote:
Anything I should look out for?
Your wallet. That's a bit much for a 240D in the condition you describe.
Strike that. That's way more than I'd pay for a 240D in that condition. It's
not quite Kaleb fodder, but it might be getting close.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd
Steve MacSween wrote:
Push down all the way on the (vertical) linkage rod that actually works on
the injector pump. Or was that pull up? No, must be down. (Can't go out and
look, car is not here.)
The STOP button does that anyway, no? If your stop button does not work then
you have a major
Steve MacSween wrote:
Has anyone here actually DONE this? Pls e-mail me offlist, I have some
questions
I know that Craig McCluskey has, as has Mat Cama.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 267+kmi
1980 300TD 168+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
juan palacios wrote:
yes ,the only problem is that you to find a good driveshaft place to cut
the drive shaft.
Or, find the proper front halfshaft and just have it and the rear rebalanced.
--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 267+kmi
1980 300TD 168+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
Steve MacSween wrote:
1. install engine and manual gearbox (4 spd) from a rusty 240d parts car at
a local shop, just swap drivelines complete, however the rusty car has 2x
mileage of my car.
Easiest.
2. install OM617 from a parts car. Question: I assume the automatic
transmissions are not
Peter Frederick wrote:
Putting the 617 in is more complicated, as you need different front
springs and a different drive shaft -- at least the front half. Tranny
will bolt right up, linkage will work, etc, but the driveshaft is
shorter, probably have a hard time finding one (although the 615
Rick Knoble wrote:
There is something you don't know about. The stabilizer holds the upper
control arms in place. Danger Will Robinson, do NOT drive it like that!
It doesn't hold them in place, it links them together in an attempt to improve
handling characteristics and reduce body roll in
TimothyPilgrim wrote:
You want to see something very cool?
The Ariel Atom. And yes, you too can own one of these and not have to
sell the house.
http://www.mbcanada.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=8351
Make sure you DL the (large) video at the bottom link.
My epiglottis is full of bees!
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