Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread D. Chester

From: Jack Schmidling [EMAIL PROTECTED]
That's about how my SB200 runs.  If I run much over 100w, it gets to red 
for my comfort. I never stop talking so I guess I am at it's peak.


Actually, it should cool down a  little when you talk.  Maximum plate 
dissipation is under unmodulated carrier conditions.  The DC input to the 
final should remain unchanged regardless of modulation.  So the additional 
output power in the sidebands, at constant DC input,  means that the 
efficiency becomes higher as the  carrier is modulated, and the plates 
should cool down a bit.


Don k4kyv

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http://gigliwood.com/abcd/ 


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RE: [AMRadio] RF Amp

2006-12-11 Thread Brett gazdzinski
Rick,
If you have the parts on hand, it's a shame not to use them
in something.
I always thought it was odd that some people collect huge
amounts of parts, but never do anything with them.

I am the other way around, if I have nice parts, they scream
at me to be used.

A tube or transformer is a terrible thing to waste.

I been working on the 811 modulator for the pair of 4D32's.
Its almost done, and its time to think about what to build next...

Brett
N2DTS

 
 
 Brett,
 
 I agree and you're correct on all counts.  However, I have 
 the iron just 
 sitting in the shed and the thought of those two 450TL's and 
 two 250TH's 
 glowing through a glass window is more than my being practical can 
 overcome.  I have accumulated many high voltage/current 
 capacitors for 
 both the power supply and the RF stage.  Granted, it is a tremendous 
 over kill, but it should be able to loaf along at legal limit.  
 Naturally, I wouldn't want to exceed the legal limit.  I'm 
 sure I would 
 stand out like a sore thumb if I were to do that.  :-D
 
 I also agree that all push pull triode amplifiers are basically the 
 same.  I was just hoping to hear from someone who had used that 
 particular configuration and see what their results were.
 
 Thanks for the info...
 Rick/K5IZ
 
 
 Brett gazdzinski wrote:
 
 I think the 405 TL's will require a LOT if filament power, that's for 
 sure! I also think they like very high voltages, over 3000, 
 which will 
 make things tend to be huge...
 
 If you get it built, we are going to monitor you closely, and 
 if you go 
 over 1501 watts pep, you will be in big trouble
 
 Besides the power and voltage, all push pull triode setups 
 are the same. 
 You can take any push pull rf deck and just scale it up
 
 Brett
 N2DTS
 

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RE: Re: [AMRadio] Antenna's..

2006-12-11 Thread Brett gazdzinski
Craig,
Thanks for the info.
What power do you run?

I might be able to get 110 feet, maybe a little more
if I put the wire in the tree branches...insulated wire?

I have found that the RG214 coax can get real hot if I run
into an antenna that is not resonant...

I have the heath 2060a, although I hate to use it.

Brett
N2DTS 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig Carter
 Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 11:33 PM
 To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
 Subject: RE: Re: [AMRadio] Antenna's..
 
 I had one of the Alpha Delta 40  80 and a multi band Alpha 
 Delta dipoles. With a tuner, the multi band was one of the 
 best dummy loads I've ever had. The 80 / 40  trapless dipole 
 was 'eh' on 80, ok on 40. I now have a 125' dipole, bent all 
 over he!! and gone, and a Heath SA 2060 tuner with RG 8. 
 Works great on every band I try it on, including 6 and 2! I 
 would put up the longest wire I could fit, get a BAT (big 
 'butted' tuner) and have fun. 73 Craig K6QI
 

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RE: [AMRadio] Lettering or decals for BC 610

2006-12-11 Thread Brett gazdzinski
I like a P touch using clear tape with white letters.
You can print out whole words or multi words, in many different
fonts and sizes, and just stick it on.
You can trim the tape so its no bigger then the letters...

I used to use daytak dry transfers then clear coat, but they got
old and would not stick anymore.
I eliminate the clear coat, and can peel off the P touch
labels if I need to

I also use it to label the chassis, on things like connections,
tube sockets, etc.

Brett
N2DTS
 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Fondren
 Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:49 AM
 To: amradio@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [AMRadio] Lettering or decals for BC 610
 
 I think I sent this question to the wrong email addressNo 
 telling where it went Anyway  I will send it again.  I 
 just got an old BC 610 on the air.   I need to paint the unit 
   No problem with painting it, but what is the best way to 
 get the lettering or decals on the front panel.  I went to 
 our local sign shop and the lady warned me that the computer 
 cut letters that small would not be to good.  She tried and 
 she was correct. She said she could have the letters printed 
 on a clear stickon sheet, something like stotch tape I guess. 
   Has anyone tried any of the decal kits available on the 
 internet. Found some kits that are called water slide decals, 
 but white letters take a special kit.  Hope some one out 
 there has a good solution 
 Bill K5PML 
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RE: [AMRadio] Lettering or decal for BC 610

2006-12-11 Thread kc7hkp
What is P touch, Never heard of that , I know of dry labels

--
KC7HKP 
George Yazzolino 
14801 NE 20th Circle 
Vancouver, Wa. 98684 
Grid CN-85 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

-- Original message -- 
From: Brett gazdzinski [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 I like a P touch using clear tape with white letters. 
 You can print out whole words or multi words, in many different 
 fonts and sizes, and just stick it on. 
 You can trim the tape so its no bigger then the letters... 
 
 I used to use daytak dry transfers then clear coat, but they got 
 old and would not stick anymore. 
 I eliminate the clear coat, and can peel off the P touch 
 labels if I need to 
 
 I also use it to label the chassis, on things like connections, 
 tube sockets, etc. 
 
 Brett 
 N2DTS 
 
 
  -Original Message- 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Fondren 
  Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:49 AM 
  To: amradio@mailman.qth.net 
  Subject: [AMRadio] Lettering or decals for BC 610 
  
  I think I sent this question to the wrong email address No 
  telling where it went Anyway I will send it again. I 
  just got an old BC 610 on the air. I need to paint the unit 
  No problem with painting it, but what is the best way to 
  get the lettering or decals on the front panel. I went to 
  our local sign shop and the lady warned me that the computer 
  cut letters that small would not be to good. She tried and 
  she was correct. She said she could have the letters printed 
  on a clear stickon sheet, something like stotch tape I guess. 
  Has anyone tried any of the decal kits available on the 
  internet. Found some kits that are called water slide decals, 
  but white letters take a special kit. Hope some one out 
  there has a good solution 
  Bill K5PML 
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[AMRadio] BANDWARMING PARTY Dec. 15th

2006-12-11 Thread VJB
In case you don't regularly visit eham.net or QRZ.com,
I have penned a brief news article about this coming
Friday that I hope you can pass along to anyone who
can take part with us.

When passing along as a forwarded message, kindly
remove my email address so I can minimize
unintentional repetition and the possibility of spam.




Vintage radio hobbyists in the United States will
celebrate the federal goverment's expansion of the 75
meter phone band with a bandwarming party from
3600-3800Kc starting at 0500 GMT Dec. 15, 2006.

The festivities are slated to begin Thursday evening
Dec. 14th, when vintage radio enthusiasts in Canada
will gather around several frequencies between
3700-3800, where they already enjoy phone privileges.

The Federal Communications Commission, as part of a
decision to enlarge and more closely match the size of
the 75 meter phone band with levels of activity, has
specified enactment at midnight, Eastern time.

A number of U.S. stations have been granted the use of
Special Event 1x1 Call Signs to help commemorate the
regulatory upgrade.

By coincidence, December 2006 marks 100 years since
radio pioneer experimenter Reginald Fesseden's
celebrated Amplitude Modulation broadcasts, considered
by many to be the first voice and music signals to be
heard by the public audience for wireless.

The bandwarming of 2006 will again feature the AM
mode, as vintage radio enthusiasts warm up their
vacuum tube gear on a December night  a century later.

For more information:
http://amfone.net



 

Do you Yahoo!?
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta.
http://new.mail.yahoo.com
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RE: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Brett gazdzinski
While its fun to play with, I think you should
plan on plate modulating the setup eventually.

You can experiment with screen modulation, it can be tricky 
to get to sound good, wont do loads of power, and depends 
on how the screen works as a modulator, some tubes are better
(lower distortion) than others I think.

I talk with someone who is screen modulating
a 4cx250b to 70 watts out, and it sounds very good.

To screen modulate what you have, you need to run
it in class C, and using a transformer in the screen
circuit, put audio on it.
You adjust the screen voltage for something like
1/4 the full power class C output.

A mike preamp like the berringer with a line output
will do it, or an 8 ohm to single ended output
transformer. 

I think you have to use a separate adjustable screen supply,
(variac?) I think it would be real tricky to use a dropping
resistor from the high voltage supply, and might be dangerous.

But all you need is a 0-400? volt supply and
a small transformer on the screen mod deck, with a
screen voltage and current meter.

You do not have to run 2000 volts on the 813 plates,
the books say about 70% of the rated plate voltage
works best, about 1400 volts.
1200 volts would work ok also.


Since my pair of 813's is adjustable in every respect,
I should tack in a transformer in the screen circuit
and try the screen modulation, but just for fun,
I can get 700 watts of carrier out of the rig as it is,
why run it at only 100 watts or so in screen mod?

Brett
N2DTS
 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Schmidling
 Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:49 PM
 To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
 Subject: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813
 
 Taking another look at my recently acquired treasure, it 
 seems like it 
 is going to take months to gather all the parts and build my Mantra 
 (813's modulated by 811's)
 
 My treasure consists of a nice 4 rack cabinet, a HV power supply 
 needing a transformer and an RF deck which was apparently a 
 linear and a 
 blank panel.
 
 It occurs to me that after I get the transformer, I will have nearly 
 enough parts to build a screen modulated 813 rig.
 
 I can't seem to find any info on doing this but it seems like 
 it could 
 be a neat interim rig that I could have on the air in a few weeks.
 
 I understand the efficiency problems but isn't this sort of academic 
 when talking about a max 300 w carrier?  Won't two 813's produce that 
 much even when run inefficiently?
 
 Surely it would be an improvement over using the Heath SB200 and the 
 Ranger... no?
 
 Any thoughts?
 
 js
 
 -- 
 PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm
 Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver 
 http://schmidling.com
 
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RE: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Bry Carling
One major advantage with some of these schemes is 
to run AM with reduced carrier.

Heath does it with their DX60 and others.

You can run that screen mod scheme in the final
OR you can run it a lower level and follow that with 
a linear amplifier.

I would defer to the RF engineering experts here as to 
which is the better method. Yes, I would love to read an 
comparative assessment of the two methods.

DX-60 followed by an 813 RF linear or SB200.

Versus:

813 screen modulated final using the same method that sets 
the quiescent carrier level at about 10% of peak signal.

Which would be more efficient? 

I know it is just a personal preference, but I happen to think 
that the Heath screen mod method for reduced carrier 
sounds great and carries a lot of punch on the air.
I have read that the Heising choke modulation method 
will only get the signal to be 85% modulated, which is not
at all bad. It just means you have a nice fat carrier (unlike 
the reduced carrier methods) and a little more carrier than 
with plate modulation

What say the transmitter design aficionados out there?

73 de AF4K, Bry


 
 I understand the efficiency problems but isn't this sort of academic
 when talking about a max 300 w carrier?  Won't two 813's produce that
 much even when run inefficiently?
 
 Surely it would be an improvement over using the Heath SB200 and the
 Ranger... no?
 
 Any thoughts?
 
 js
 
 
 Jack,
 
Screen modulation is another form of efficiency modulation that will
 behave a lot like an AM linear amplifier in terms of capability for a given
 tube. Your SB-200 has 2 X 160 watts of dissipation available, and the dual
 813 has 2 X 125 watts dissipation available. IMHO the 813 in ICAS rating is
 more conservatively rated than the 572B, so I'd think this is a wash between
 the two. I have a Central electronics 600L linear amplifier with a grid
 driven single 813 in class Ab2. On AM the single 813 is happy at 70 watts RF
 out, but it will do 100 watts AM and modulate upward 100%. It does blush a
 little but as long as I talk the red stays away. The drive need is under 5
 watts too with that 813.
 
Screen modulation, although relatively simple, requires the screen audio
 drive to stay linear when the screen current varies from zero to fairly high
 level. This means the screen modulator needs to have a low source impedance,
 and some inverse feedback is helpful. One approach is to use something like
 a triode connected beam power tube as a cathode follower to drive the
 screen. You can also use a low power ( 10 watts or so ) modulator circuit
 with a small modulation transformer for the 813 screen.
 
 Regards,
 Jim
 JKO
 
 
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RE: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Brett gazdzinski
I wonder what tubes they are?

Brett
 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim candela
 Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 11:22 PM
 To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
 Subject: RE: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813
 
 
 From Jim W5JO:
 
 As an interesting sidelight to this, I read an article on
 Ted/KC3OL's website some time back about modulating an SB
 200 directly..  As I recall it was written by Chuck/WA0ZHH.
 
 
 Reply by Jim, JKO:
 
 I found the sight URL:
 
 http://www.kc3ol.dynip.com/downloads/wa0zhh.jpg
 
 JIM
 
 --
 No virus found in this outgoing message.
 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.15/581 - Release 
 Date: 12/9/2006
 3:41 PM
 
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RE: [AMRadio] Lettering or decal for BC 610

2006-12-11 Thread Brett gazdzinski
It's a little gizmo you can get at office max,
or staples, or k or wall mart.
It takes tape, and you type what you want, then print it out,
peel and stick.
You can do real small letters, they make all colors of tape
and letters, black on white, white on clear, etc.

Its not like the old dymo stuff (hard plastic) that ALWAYS
fell off after a short time...

Brett
 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 8:56 AM
 To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
 Subject: RE: [AMRadio] Lettering or decal for BC 610
 
 What is P touch, Never heard of that , I know of dry labels
 
 --
 KC7HKP 
 George Yazzolino 
 14801 NE 20th Circle 
 Vancouver, Wa. 98684 
 Grid CN-85 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 -- Original message -- 
 From: Brett gazdzinski [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 
  I like a P touch using clear tape with white letters. 
  You can print out whole words or multi words, in many different 
  fonts and sizes, and just stick it on. 
  You can trim the tape so its no bigger then the letters... 
  
  I used to use daytak dry transfers then clear coat, but they got 
  old and would not stick anymore. 
  I eliminate the clear coat, and can peel off the P touch 
  labels if I need to 
  
  I also use it to label the chassis, on things like connections, 
  tube sockets, etc. 
  
  Brett 
  N2DTS 
  
  
   -Original Message- 
   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
   [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
 Bill Fondren 
   Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:49 AM 
   To: amradio@mailman.qth.net 
   Subject: [AMRadio] Lettering or decals for BC 610 
   
   I think I sent this question to the wrong email address No 
   telling where it went Anyway I will send it again. I 
   just got an old BC 610 on the air. I need to paint the unit 
   No problem with painting it, but what is the best way to 
   get the lettering or decals on the front panel. I went to 
   our local sign shop and the lady warned me that the computer 
   cut letters that small would not be to good. She tried and 
   she was correct. She said she could have the letters printed 
   on a clear stickon sheet, something like stotch tape I guess. 
   Has anyone tried any of the decal kits available on the 
   internet. Found some kits that are called water slide decals, 
   but white letters take a special kit. Hope some one out 
   there has a good solution 
   Bill K5PML 
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RE: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Bry Carling
That is really interesting.

I wonder what he sets the BIAS voltage to?
Interesting that it needs -200V for the negative swings

There is not much information about the requirements for 
those two 120V AC transformers, but I imagine that they 
could be fairly small since they are only supplying bias voltage.

Comments?

73.5 de AF4K, Bry
 
 From Jim W5JO:
 
 As an interesting sidelight to this, I read an article on
 Ted/KC3OL's website some time back about modulating an SB
 200 directly..  As I recall it was written by Chuck/WA0ZHH.
 
 
 Reply by Jim, JKO:
 
 I found the sight URL:
 
 http://www.kc3ol.dynip.com/downloads/wa0zhh.jpg
 
 JIM
 
 --
 No virus found in this outgoing message.
 Checked by AVG Free Edition.
 Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.15/581 - Release Date: 12/9/2006
 3:41 PM
 
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RE: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Bry Carling
Brett, it says they are 6336 tubes, although I think some other 
low Z ones like 6080 or 6AS7 would work too.

Bry

 I wonder what tubes they are?
 
 Brett
  
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim candela
  Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 11:22 PM
  To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
  Subject: RE: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813
  
  
  From Jim W5JO:
  
  As an interesting sidelight to this, I read an article on
  Ted/KC3OL's website some time back about modulating an SB
  200 directly..  As I recall it was written by Chuck/WA0ZHH.
  
  
  Reply by Jim, JKO:
  
  I found the sight URL:
  
  http://www.kc3ol.dynip.com/downloads/wa0zhh.jpg
  
  JIM
  
  --
  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.15/581 - Release 
  Date: 12/9/2006
  3:41 PM
  
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RE: [AMRadio] Lettering or decal for BC 610

2006-12-11 Thread Bob Peters
This is a box that looks like a hand held PC...You can change fonts,
size ect...Great Toy for under $50 from Office Depot and others...I have
2 ..They are made by BROTHER  Tape is rather costly but worth it...

W1PE


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 7:56 AM
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
Subject: RE: [AMRadio] Lettering or decal for BC 610


What is P touch, Never heard of that , I know of dry labels

--
KC7HKP 
George Yazzolino 
14801 NE 20th Circle 
Vancouver, Wa. 98684 
Grid CN-85 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

-- Original message -- 
From: Brett gazdzinski [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 I like a P touch using clear tape with white letters.
 You can print out whole words or multi words, in many different 
 fonts and sizes, and just stick it on. 
 You can trim the tape so its no bigger then the letters... 
 
 I used to use daytak dry transfers then clear coat, but they got
 old and would not stick anymore. 
 I eliminate the clear coat, and can peel off the P touch 
 labels if I need to 
 
 I also use it to label the chassis, on things like connections,
 tube sockets, etc. 
 
 Brett
 N2DTS 
 
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Fondren 
  Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 8:49 AM 
  To: amradio@mailman.qth.net 
  Subject: [AMRadio] Lettering or decals for BC 610 
  
  I think I sent this question to the wrong email address No
  telling where it went Anyway I will send it again. I 
  just got an old BC 610 on the air. I need to paint the unit 
  No problem with painting it, but what is the best way to 
  get the lettering or decals on the front panel. I went to 
  our local sign shop and the lady warned me that the computer 
  cut letters that small would not be to good. She tried and 
  she was correct. She said she could have the letters printed 
  on a clear stickon sheet, something like stotch tape I guess. 
  Has anyone tried any of the decal kits available on the 
  internet. Found some kits that are called water slide decals, 
  but white letters take a special kit. Hope some one out 
  there has a good solution 
  Bill K5PML 
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Re: [AMRadio] Lettering or decal for BC 610

2006-12-11 Thread A.R.S. - W5AMI

On 12/11/06, Bob Peters [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

This is a box that looks like a hand held PC...You can change fonts,
size ect...Great Toy for under $50 from Office Depot and others...I have
2 ..They are made by BROTHER  Tape is rather costly but worth it...

W1PE


Can you clear coat over these without some reaction of the tape to the
clear coat?
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RE: [AMRadio] Lettering or decals for BC 610

2006-12-11 Thread Ed Sieb

I  believe the Brother P-Touch will also provide dry transfer tapes too.  

Ed, VA3ES
--

Brett gazdzinski wrote:
I like a P touch using clear tape with white letters.
You can print out whole words or multi words, in many different
fonts and sizes, and just stick it on.
You can trim the tape so its no bigger then the letters...
Brett
N2DTS
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Re: [AMRadio] Lettering or decal for BC 610

2006-12-11 Thread W4AWM
For the best deal on Brother P-Touch tapes, do an internet search.  I 
recently purchased a $25.00 cartridge of TZ Flexible tape for cable 
identification 
for $13.61 plus shipping. I have nothing to do with this company other than 
being a customer, but I will be glad to tell you who they are if you contact me 
DIRECT.

73,

John,  W4AWM
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Re: [AMRadio] RF Amp

2006-12-11 Thread Rick Brashear

Brett,
I have so many projects in the works, but this one has always been a 
dream of mine.  While I wait to find parts for the one I try to stay 
busy on another one.  Thanks for the encouragement and good luck on your 
modulator.

73,
Rick/K5IZ

Brett gazdzinski wrote:


Rick,
If you have the parts on hand, it's a shame not to use them
in something.
I always thought it was odd that some people collect huge
amounts of parts, but never do anything with them.

I am the other way around, if I have nice parts, they scream
at me to be used.

A tube or transformer is a terrible thing to waste.

I been working on the 811 modulator for the pair of 4D32's.
Its almost done, and its time to think about what to build next...

Brett
N2DTS
 

 



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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Jim Wilhite
Tubes running red on the plate is not a BIG concern.  It was 
done all the time in commercial service.  It is when they 
get almost white that you need to worry.  A bit of cherry 
red is ok.  Just remember what KYV said, don't exceed the 
plate dissipation of the tubes.


The only other concern is the heat generated.  If you run 
them hot, then be sure they are force air cooled properly 
and the components used in the construction is rated for 
CCS.


Jim
W5JO




Jim candela wrote:


On AM the single 813 is happy at 70 watts RF
out, but it will do 100 watts AM and modulate upward 
100%. It does blush a

little but as long as I talk the red stays away.


That's about how my SB200 runs.  If I run much over 100w, 
it gets to red for my comfort. I never stop talking so I 
guess I am at it's peak.


This would lead me to conclude that I could get at least 
200w out of 2 813's in spite of the numbers.  Not a 
quantum leap but worth the fun project.


Does that sound right?

js



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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Jack Schmidling

Jim Wilhite wrote:
A bit of cherry red is ok.  Just remember what KYV 
said, don't exceed the plate dissipation of the tubes.


Roger but isn't color a function of plate dissipation?

In other words, can one use shades of red as real world indication 
instead of relying on theoretical calculations?


js

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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Jim Wilhite
Yes, but we in the amateur service do not even consider 
running them at the max.  Red is ok if you take into 
consideration all parameters and follow design 
considerations.


W5JO





Roger but isn't color a function of plate dissipation?

In other words, can one use shades of red as real world 
indication instead of relying on theoretical calculations?


js



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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread david knepper
The reason that the tube is a bit cherry red is to continually remove 
built-up gasses inside the tube.


Dave, W3ST
Publisher of the Collins Journal
Secretary to the Collins Radio Association
www.collinsra.com - the CRA Website
Now with PayPal
CRA Nets: 3.805 Mhz every Monday at 8 PM EST
and 14.253 Mhz every Saturday at 12 Noon EST
Collins Chatroom - Daily at 4 PM EST on 14.285  Mhz
- Original Message - 
From: Jim Wilhite [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service 
amradio@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:03 AM
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813


Yes, but we in the amateur service do not even consider running them at 
the max.  Red is ok if you take into consideration all parameters and 
follow design considerations.


W5JO





Roger but isn't color a function of plate dissipation?

In other words, can one use shades of red as real world indication 
instead of relying on theoretical calculations?


js



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[AMRadio] Component ID please

2006-12-11 Thread Jack Schmidling
The HV meter on my supply does not work and the series resistor inside 
seems to be open.  No problem but there is another component across the 
resistor that I have never seen before and assume is a cap but don't 
know.. it also reads open.


I posted a pic at http://schmidling.com/meter.jpg for ID.

As an aside, the resistor is quaintly marked Precision but the value 
is 1/2 meg which is hand written in like at NBS.  No decimal point, 
just 1/2 meg.  What is really bazaar is the accuracy is 2%, also hand 
written.  When was that ever precision?


js

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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Geoff/W5OMR

Bry Carling wrote:
One major advantage with some of these schemes is 
to run AM with reduced carrier.


Yes, I would love to read an 
comparative assessment of the two methods.


http://www.qsl.net/wa5bxo/asyam/aam3.html


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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Geoff/W5OMR

Jack Schmidling wrote:

Jim Wilhite wrote:
A bit of cherry red is ok.  Just remember what KYV said, don't exceed 
the plate dissipation of the tubes.


Roger but isn't color a function of plate dissipation?

In other words, can one use shades of red as real world indication 
instead of relying on theoretical calculations?


in short, no.

some tubes 'color-up' at different levels than others.

K5SWK had a pair of 833's in his modulator.. one always showed more 
color than the other.


Seems I remember a time when there were a pair, and one did -not- show 
color at all, while the other one did.  He thought it wasn't working, 
but it was proven that it indeed was.


John/BXO has 4 813's in push-pull parallel in his modulator.. at normal 
voltage, there's one that always showed 'a little color' when at idle.


No, you can't depend on the color of the tube, to determine output of 
said tube.


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Re: [AMRadio] Component ID please

2006-12-11 Thread Rick Brashear

Jack...
That looks more like a shunt to me.
Rick

Jack Schmidling wrote:

The HV meter on my supply does not work and the series resistor inside 
seems to be open.  No problem but there is another component across 
the resistor that I have never seen before and assume is a cap but 
don't know.. it also reads open.


I posted a pic at http://schmidling.com/meter.jpg for ID.

As an aside, the resistor is quaintly marked Precision but the value 
is 1/2 meg which is hand written in like at NBS.  No decimal point, 
just 1/2 meg.  What is really bazaar is the accuracy is 2%, also hand 
written.  When was that ever precision?


js



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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread John Lawson



On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, Jim Wilhite wrote:

Yes, but we in the amateur service do not even consider running them at the 
max.  Red is ok if you take into consideration all parameters and follow 
design considerations.


  Dave Knepper also writes:

The reason that the tube is a bit cherry red is to continually remove 
built-up gasses inside the tube.




   There is a wealth of practical, hands-on - and also theoretical, 
knowledge available on this List - a rarity among reflectors to be sure. 
Jim has provided myself and many others with constant 'good information' 
regarding AM transmitting gear.



  But but but but:  Speaking as a design engineer, lifelong tube-geek, 
and (moderately succesful) thermionic designer - I would like to make the 
point that plate incandescance may, or may not, be 'OK'  depends on 
the device amd the regime it's run in.



   Unless designed for such dissipation, it is most certainly NOT OK to 
run many tubes at a blush.  The venerable 6146 is a case in point - 
running the plates red in a 6146 alters them irreversibly and generally 
kills 'em...  get a 'fresh' one, test it for Gm, run it good and red for a 
while, then re-test.  ooops


  There are of course tubes designed to run red, even bright yellow - like 
the various radiation-cooled tubes - IIRC 4-65s, etc...  There are some 
tubes, like the 833, that can stand a little color and not get terribly 
upset.



  Running plates red does not, in most cases, re-adsorb gasses - if 
anything it facilitates thier release - depends entirely on the plate 
alloy, thickness, and any coating, element spacing, grid material and 
design, spacer materials, etc., etc..  You can't just make generic 
generalizations like this... the situation is way more complex. Red plates 
also has implications for permanent grid damage - not to mention that fact 
that we want that plate to collect electrons, not emit a bunch of them... 
;}



  And as for running them to the max - all tubes have a point of maximum 
'efficiency' where the power transfer function is optimal.  Is the plate 
red at that place under the curves?  If it's a radiation-cooled tube, you 
bet.  If it's a 6146 - it just died. And just who is the we you speak 
of? ;} I run my Valiant on the raggedy edge most of the time - and I've 
chewed up one brand new set of finals finding out just where that edge 
is... d'oh!  But now I know just how to get the max out of the transmitter 
and still keep the Output Devices happy - even if I do make 'em sweat good 
and hard...



  Anyway - the study of the theory and design of vacuum tubes is pretty 
damn fascinating to me - and if anyone is interested, I have a fairly 
comprehensive bibliography on the subject that I'd be happy to post, if 
there is any interest.   And seeing as how most of us are using power 
tubes, and building / operating devices using power tubes - might save 
some bucks in the long run.



   Just my 200 millidollar for a Monday Morning...



  Cheers and Best of the Season


John
KB6SCO
DM09fg

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RE: [AMRadio] Component ID please

2006-12-11 Thread John E. Coleman (ARS WA5BXO)
No, look again, it is internal series multiplier, so that the meter will
read volts with a direct hookup.  If this is a 0-500 Volt meter as the
picture seems to indicate, and multiplier was 500,000 ohms then the meter
movement would have been a 1ma movement.  I see no reason for a capacitor to
bypass the resistor, maybe the meter but not the resistor. So perhaps the
other device was another resistor to adjust the value so that the meter is
more accurate than it was with just the one resistor.  It may also be for
temperature compensation.  Both could be removed and the one milliamp
movement used with an external resistor arrangement or divider.  With the
proper circuitry and switch it could be a 0-500 milliamp or 0-5KV.

John, WA5BXO 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rick Brashear
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:28 AM
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Component ID please

Jack...
That looks more like a shunt to me.
Rick

Jack Schmidling wrote:

 The HV meter on my supply does not work and the series resistor inside 
 seems to be open.  No problem but there is another component across 
 the resistor that I have never seen before and assume is a cap but 
 don't know.. it also reads open.

 I posted a pic at http://schmidling.com/meter.jpg for ID.

 As an aside, the resistor is quaintly marked Precision but the value 
 is 1/2 meg which is hand written in like at NBS.  No decimal point, 
 just 1/2 meg.  What is really bazaar is the accuracy is 2%, also hand 
 written.  When was that ever precision?

 js


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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread david knepper
John, you better check your copy of  Eimac's classic on the Care and Feeding 
of Power Amplifier Tubes.


Of course, running a 6146 red hot is not acceptable.  I was referring to 
large transmitting tubes like the 4-400A's, etc.



Dave, W3ST
Publisher of the Collins Journal
Secretary to the Collins Radio Association
www.collinsra.com - the CRA Website
Now with PayPal
CRA Nets: 3.805 Mhz every Monday at 8 PM EST
and 14.253 Mhz every Saturday at 12 Noon EST
Collins Chatroom - Daily at 4 PM EST on 14.285  Mhz
- Original Message - 
From: John Lawson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service 
amradio@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813





On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, Jim Wilhite wrote:

Yes, but we in the amateur service do not even consider running them at 
the max.  Red is ok if you take into consideration all parameters and 
follow design considerations.


  Dave Knepper also writes:

The reason that the tube is a bit cherry red is to continually remove 
built-up gasses inside the tube.




   There is a wealth of practical, hands-on - and also theoretical, 
knowledge available on this List - a rarity among reflectors to be sure. 
Jim has provided myself and many others with constant 'good information' 
regarding AM transmitting gear.



  But but but but:  Speaking as a design engineer, lifelong tube-geek, 
and (moderately succesful) thermionic designer - I would like to make the 
point that plate incandescance may, or may not, be 'OK'  depends on 
the device amd the regime it's run in.



   Unless designed for such dissipation, it is most certainly NOT OK to 
run many tubes at a blush.  The venerable 6146 is a case in point - 
running the plates red in a 6146 alters them irreversibly and generally 
kills 'em...  get a 'fresh' one, test it for Gm, run it good and red for a 
while, then re-test.  ooops


  There are of course tubes designed to run red, even bright yellow - like 
the various radiation-cooled tubes - IIRC 4-65s, etc...  There are some 
tubes, like the 833, that can stand a little color and not get terribly 
upset.



  Running plates red does not, in most cases, re-adsorb gasses - if 
anything it facilitates thier release - depends entirely on the plate 
alloy, thickness, and any coating, element spacing, grid material and 
design, spacer materials, etc., etc..  You can't just make generic 
generalizations like this... the situation is way more complex. Red plates 
also has implications for permanent grid damage - not to mention that fact 
that we want that plate to collect electrons, not emit a bunch of them... 
;}



  And as for running them to the max - all tubes have a point of maximum 
'efficiency' where the power transfer function is optimal.  Is the plate 
red at that place under the curves?  If it's a radiation-cooled tube, you 
bet.  If it's a 6146 - it just died. And just who is the we you speak 
of? ;} I run my Valiant on the raggedy edge most of the time - and I've 
chewed up one brand new set of finals finding out just where that edge 
is... d'oh!  But now I know just how to get the max out of the transmitter 
and still keep the Output Devices happy - even if I do make 'em sweat good 
and hard...



  Anyway - the study of the theory and design of vacuum tubes is pretty 
damn fascinating to me - and if anyone is interested, I have a fairly 
comprehensive bibliography on the subject that I'd be happy to post, if 
there is any interest.   And seeing as how most of us are using power 
tubes, and building / operating devices using power tubes - might save 
some bucks in the long run.



   Just my 200 millidollar for a Monday Morning...



  Cheers and Best of the Season


John
KB6SCO
DM09fg

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Re: [AMRadio] Component ID please

2006-12-11 Thread Rick Brashear

Dang!  You're right again, John!  I now see the series wiring.  Good call.
Rick/K5IZ

John E. Coleman (ARS WA5BXO) wrote:


No, look again, it is internal series multiplier, so that the meter will
read volts with a direct hookup.  If this is a 0-500 Volt meter as the
picture seems to indicate, and multiplier was 500,000 ohms then the meter
movement would have been a 1ma movement.  I see no reason for a capacitor to
bypass the resistor, maybe the meter but not the resistor. So perhaps the
other device was another resistor to adjust the value so that the meter is
more accurate than it was with just the one resistor.  It may also be for
temperature compensation.  Both could be removed and the one milliamp
movement used with an external resistor arrangement or divider.  With the
proper circuitry and switch it could be a 0-500 milliamp or 0-5KV.

John, WA5BXO 
 

 



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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread david knepper
If you have one tube like aan 833A running slightly cherry and the other is 
not showing any color, then, the latter is a weak tube.  The former has low 
emission, in other words.


Dave, W3ST
Publisher of the Collins Journal
Secretary to the Collins Radio Association
www.collinsra.com - the CRA Website
Now with PayPal
CRA Nets: 3.805 Mhz every Monday at 8 PM EST
and 14.253 Mhz every Saturday at 12 Noon EST
Collins Chatroom - Daily at 4 PM EST on 14.285  Mhz
- Original Message - 
From: Geoff/W5OMR [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service 
amradio@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813



Jack Schmidling wrote:

Jim Wilhite wrote:
A bit of cherry red is ok.  Just remember what KYV said, don't exceed 
the plate dissipation of the tubes.


Roger but isn't color a function of plate dissipation?

In other words, can one use shades of red as real world indication 
instead of relying on theoretical calculations?


in short, no.

some tubes 'color-up' at different levels than others.

K5SWK had a pair of 833's in his modulator.. one always showed more color 
than the other.


Seems I remember a time when there were a pair, and one did -not- show 
color at all, while the other one did.  He thought it wasn't working, but 
it was proven that it indeed was.


John/BXO has 4 813's in push-pull parallel in his modulator.. at normal 
voltage, there's one that always showed 'a little color' when at idle.


No, you can't depend on the color of the tube, to determine output of said 
tube.


--
73, etc
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Re: [AMRadio] Component ID please

2006-12-11 Thread Geoff/W5OMR

Rick Brashear wrote:
Dang!  You're right again, John!  I now see the series wiring.  Good 
call.

Rick/K5IZ

John E. Coleman (ARS WA5BXO) wrote:



Forget it, Rick.  that guy walks through 'complicated' electronic 
formulas like a cow walks through grass.


He's -real- good!

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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Geoff/W5OMR

david knepper wrote:
If you have one tube like aan 833A running slightly cherry and the 
other is not showing any color, then, the latter is a weak tube.  The 
former has low emission, in other words.




Not all 833's are created equal. 


Your statement is not necessarily true.

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[AMRadio] Step Start

2006-12-11 Thread Jack Schmidling
I just ordered a trans for my pwsup and need to work around the hi/low 
step start designed into it.  It uses the 220 line to provide 110 or 220 
to the transformer.  The new one is 110 so I do not have this option.


I plan to reroute the hi/low switch to a resistor or better yet a light 
bulb to reduce in input voltage at start up.


The original was limited to 110v but with a resistor, I can provide any 
start up voltage I want so I need some help figuring out what resistance 
would be best.


There is a time delay relay that precludes putting any voltage on the 
primary for one minute to allow the tubes to warm up so I presume the 
hi/lo is to reduce the surge upon charging up the caps.


This is a choke input with two 4 mf in parallel across the output and 
somewhere it seemed to imply that the step start was only needed for cap 
input.


As far as I can get with the heavy math, it seems like the resistor 
required would only be a few watts as it is only dealing with the 100k 
bleeder as a load.


Thoughts please.

js

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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Jim Wilhite
You are most correct John, I was speaking of power tubes not 
the lesser cousins.  I didn't make that clear but in light 
of the subject, I plead not guilty.


Jim
W5JO
- Original Message - 
From: John Lawson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service 
amradio@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:35 AM
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813





On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, Jim Wilhite wrote:

Yes, but we in the amateur service do not even consider 
running them at the max.  Red is ok if you take into 
consideration all parameters and follow design 
considerations.


  Dave Knepper also writes:

The reason that the tube is a bit cherry red is to 
continually remove built-up gasses inside the tube.




   There is a wealth of practical, hands-on - and also 
theoretical, knowledge available on this List - a rarity 
among reflectors to be sure. Jim has provided myself and 
many others with constant 'good information' regarding AM 
transmitting gear.



  But but but but:  Speaking as a design engineer, 
lifelong tube-geek, and (moderately succesful) thermionic 
designer - I would like to make the point that plate 
incandescance may, or may not, be 'OK'  depends on the 
device amd the regime it's run in.



   Unless designed for such dissipation, it is most 
certainly NOT OK to run many tubes at a blush.  The 
venerable 6146 is a case in point - running the plates red 
in a 6146 alters them irreversibly and generally kills 
'em...  get a 'fresh' one, test it for Gm, run it good and 
red for a while, then re-test.  ooops


  There are of course tubes designed to run red, even 
bright yellow - like the various radiation-cooled tubes - 
IIRC 4-65s, etc...  There are some tubes, like the 833, 
that can stand a little color and not get terribly upset.



  Running plates red does not, in most cases, re-adsorb 
gasses - if anything it facilitates thier release - 
depends entirely on the plate alloy, thickness, and any 
coating, element spacing, grid material and design, spacer 
materials, etc., etc..  You can't just make generic 
generalizations like this... the situation is way more 
complex. Red plates also has implications for permanent 
grid damage - not to mention that fact that we want that 
plate to collect electrons, not emit a bunch of them... ;}



  And as for running them to the max - all tubes have a 
point of maximum 'efficiency' where the power transfer 
function is optimal.  Is the plate red at that place under 
the curves?  If it's a radiation-cooled tube, you bet.  If 
it's a 6146 - it just died. And just who is the we you 
speak of? ;} I run my Valiant on the raggedy edge most of 
the time - and I've chewed up one brand new set of finals 
finding out just where that edge is... d'oh!  But now I 
know just how to get the max out of the transmitter and 
still keep the Output Devices happy - even if I do make 
'em sweat good and hard...



  Anyway - the study of the theory and design of vacuum 
tubes is pretty damn fascinating to me - and if anyone is 
interested, I have a fairly comprehensive bibliography on 
the subject that I'd be happy to post, if there is any 
interest.   And seeing as how most of us are using power 
tubes, and building / operating devices using power 
tubes - might save some bucks in the long run.



   Just my 200 millidollar for a Monday Morning...



  Cheers and Best of the Season


John
KB6SCO
DM09fg

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RE: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Brett gazdzinski
Most 813's had graphite plates, and I never remember
them showing color, I always thought that would be way beyond
what they were good for, or was good for them...if they were glowing!

811/812 can show some color, but I don't think its GOOD
for them to do so.
6146, 6l6, 4D32, and others of their ilk don't normally show color,
4-65/125/250/400/1000 can, and its ok.
So can the TH and TL series, they can run almost white hot plates.

The harder you run them the shorter they last, and have less room
for mistakes (we don't make THOSE here).

While I don't often run tubes at the maximum plate
dissipation, I do greatly exceed the plate voltage ratings,
I don't know where they came up with the ratings, but you
seem to be able to double it without problems on most tubes.
I have been running a pair of 4D32's at 1200 volts under modulation,
without problems, they are rated for 600 volts in 
plate modulated AM service...

Brett
N2DTS
 
 
 
 On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, Jim Wilhite wrote:
 
  Yes, but we in the amateur service do not even consider 
 running them at the 
  max.  Red is ok if you take into consideration all 
 parameters and follow 
  design considerations.
 
Dave Knepper also writes:
 
 The reason that the tube is a bit cherry red is to 
 continually remove 
 built-up gasses inside the tube.
 
 
 
 There is a wealth of practical, hands-on - and also theoretical, 
 knowledge available on this List - a rarity among reflectors 
 to be sure. 
 Jim has provided myself and many others with constant 'good 
 information' 
 regarding AM transmitting gear.
 
 
But but but but:  Speaking as a design engineer, 
 lifelong tube-geek, 
 and (moderately succesful) thermionic designer - I would like 
 to make the 
 point that plate incandescance may, or may not, be 'OK'  
 depends on 
 the device amd the regime it's run in.
 
 
 Unless designed for such dissipation, it is most 
 certainly NOT OK to 
 run many tubes at a blush.  The venerable 6146 is a case in point - 
 running the plates red in a 6146 alters them irreversibly and 
 generally 
 kills 'em...  get a 'fresh' one, test it for Gm, run it good 
 and red for a 
 while, then re-test.  ooops
 
There are of course tubes designed to run red, even bright 
 yellow - like 
 the various radiation-cooled tubes - IIRC 4-65s, etc...  
 There are some 
 tubes, like the 833, that can stand a little color and not 
 get terribly 
 upset.
 
 
Running plates red does not, in most cases, re-adsorb gasses - if 
 anything it facilitates thier release - depends entirely on the plate 
 alloy, thickness, and any coating, element spacing, grid material and 
 design, spacer materials, etc., etc..  You can't just make generic 
 generalizations like this... the situation is way more 
 complex. Red plates 
 also has implications for permanent grid damage - not to 
 mention that fact 
 that we want that plate to collect electrons, not emit a 
 bunch of them... 
 ;}
 
 
And as for running them to the max - all tubes have a 
 point of maximum 
 'efficiency' where the power transfer function is optimal.  
 Is the plate 
 red at that place under the curves?  If it's a 
 radiation-cooled tube, you 
 bet.  If it's a 6146 - it just died. And just who is the we 
 you speak 
 of? ;} I run my Valiant on the raggedy edge most of the time 
 - and I've 
 chewed up one brand new set of finals finding out just where 
 that edge 
 is... d'oh!  But now I know just how to get the max out of 
 the transmitter 
 and still keep the Output Devices happy - even if I do make 
 'em sweat good 
 and hard...
 
 
Anyway - the study of the theory and design of vacuum 
 tubes is pretty 
 damn fascinating to me - and if anyone is interested, I have a fairly 
 comprehensive bibliography on the subject that I'd be happy 
 to post, if 
 there is any interest.   And seeing as how most of us are using power 
 tubes, and building / operating devices using power tubes - 
 might save 
 some bucks in the long run.
 
 
 Just my 200 millidollar for a Monday Morning...
 
 
 
Cheers and Best of the Season
 
 
 John
 KB6SCO
 DM09fg
 
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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread david knepper
Zirconium getters best at about 1000 degrees C, this why large metal anode 
transmitting tubes like the 4-400A, 4-1000A, and 3-500 must be operated with 
a dull red to red anode color.  Zirconium also releases some gasses and 
absorbs other gasses at various temperatures.  The varying temperature 
across the length of the anode (and as the anode heats and cools) allows the 
gettering agent to absorb a wide variety of gasses.


You can do what you will but I like to run a little color on my large 
bottles.


Dave, W3ST
Publisher of the Collins Journal
Secretary to the Collins Radio Association
www.collinsra.com - the CRA Website
Now with PayPal
CRA Nets: 3.805 Mhz every Monday at 8 PM EST
and 14.253 Mhz every Saturday at 12 Noon EST
Collins Chatroom - Daily at 4 PM EST on 14.285  Mhz
- Original Message - 
From: John Lawson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service 
amradio@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813





On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, david knepper wrote:

John, you better check your copy of  Eimac's classic on the Care and 
Feeding of Power Amplifier Tubes.



  Which edition?   I think I have 'em all...   ;}


 I strenuously re-iterate the point that making a sweeping omnibus 
generalization about 'red plates re-adsorbing gasses' is just that: a 
generalization, and can be (disastrously) not true in a lot of cases





Of course, running a 6146 red hot is not acceptable.  I was referring to 
large transmitting tubes like the 4-400A's, etc.





  Y'all didn't say that - you said ...the tube...



  Nit-pickingly yours:

John
KB6SCO
DM09fg

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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread John Lawson



On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, Jim Wilhite wrote:

You are most correct John, I was speaking of power tubes not the lesser 
cousins.  I didn't make that clear but in light of the subject, I plead not 
guilty.




  Well - speaking as someone who will very soon be conducting QSOs via 
833s and 807s (*) - I plan to test a few of your assertions...  ;}



 The difference between 'Theory' and 'Practice' is usually much less in 
theory, than it is in practice




  Cheers and Best of the Season


John
KB6SCO
DM09fg


(*)  I'm rescuing an RCA BTA-1MX this weekend - I'll have it on the air as 
soon as I can work out the re-tuning for 80M...woo hoo!!

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RE: [AMRadio] Step Start

2006-12-11 Thread Brett gazdzinski

 
 I plan to reroute the hi/low switch to a resistor or better 
 yet a light 
 bulb to reduce in input voltage at start up.

Light bulb wont do, too high a resistance.
Some used those old ceramic heating elements that were used in
very old fashioned space heaters, looked like satellite dishes
sort of...


 
 The original was limited to 110v but with a resistor, I can 
 provide any 
 start up voltage I want so I need some help figuring out what 
 resistance 
 would be best.

I would guess around 5 to 10 ohms, more on the 5 ohm side.
Too high and you will get only 100 volts in the 1/2 second
of step start. You want about 1/2 voltage...

 
 There is a time delay relay that precludes putting any voltage on the 
 primary for one minute to allow the tubes to warm up so I presume the 
 hi/lo is to reduce the surge upon charging up the caps.

That time delay is for the mercury vapor rectifiers.
I use solid state diodes (1 amp at 14kv), less muss and fuss...

 
 This is a choke input with two 4 mf in parallel across the output and 
 somewhere it seemed to imply that the step start was only 
 needed for cap 
 input.
 
 As far as I can get with the heavy math, it seems like the resistor 
 required would only be a few watts as it is only dealing with 
 the 100k 
 bleeder as a load.

Not much average power, but on step start peak currents are high,
even with choke input. Make the step start resistor 25 or better watts.
The step start resistor only comes into play for the 1/2 second during
step start, the time delay relay should them short it out.
If you want a 1/2 voltage tune position, then the resistor has
 got to be a good size...


Brett
N2DTS
 
 
 Thoughts please.
 
 js
 
 -- 
 PHOTO OF THE WEEK: http://schmidling.com/pow.htm
 Astronomy, Beer, Cheese, Fiber,Gems, Sausage,Silver 
 http://schmidling.com
 
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[AMRadio] Re: Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread ne1s

Bry Carling writes:


DX-60 followed by an 813 RF linear or SB200. 

Versus: 

813 screen modulated final using the same method that sets 
the quiescent carrier level at about 10% of peak signal. 

Which would be more efficient?  



It's my understanding that from a 1st order analysis (ignoring  subtleties 
like what plate voltage they are being run at, any differences in 
efficiencies between the tube types, output network design, etc, etc.), the 
plate efficiencies would theoretically be the same between a 
screen-modulated stage and a class AB linear amplifier stage amplifying an 
AM signal, since they are both essentially efficiency modulation 
techniques. 


73.,
-Larry/NE1S
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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread John Lawson



On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, david knepper wrote:

Zirconium getters best at about 1000 degrees C, this why large metal anode 
transmitting tubes like the 4-400A, 4-1000A, and 3-500 must be operated with 
a dull red to red anode color.  Zirconium also releases some gasses and


  [snip]


You can do what you will but I like to run a little color on my large 
bottles.



  You're making the same point I am, Dave: visible plate incandescance 
can be 'optimum' - 'acceptable' - 'acceptable for x-time' - 'not 
recommended - or 'disastrous'. It's device-dependent!


  All of it is a matter of physics, physical electronics, metallurgy, and 
the well-known, well-documented aspects of thermionic device design and 
contruction. It is not so much a matter of desire or personal inclination, 
as it is: at the operating point you have set for the particular device in 
use - is it within the manufacturer's ratings for that service?  If the 
plate shows visible color, so be it. If, on the other hand, a noticeable 
blush means the tube is exceeding it's design-spec, then some consequences 
will come from that... good or bad I cannot say.  If an expensive 
power tube has it's useful life cut in half, or more, from 'abuse' - 
especially if it's a fairly 'rare' type - well then



  Dat wuz all I wuz tryin' t' say.


   Cheers  and Best of the Season!


John
KB6SCO
DM09fg

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RE: [AMRadio] Step Start

2006-12-11 Thread John E. Coleman (ARS WA5BXO)
Jack I would dispense with the startup circuit.  With the choke input filter
system and only 4mf of output capacitance you want need a start up circuit.
When I hit the push to talk switch is when my PS plate XFMR comes on.  The
heaters to the 866 are on all the time.

John



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Schmidling
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 11:20 AM
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
Subject: [AMRadio] Step Start

I just ordered a trans for my pwsup and need to work around the hi/low 
step start designed into it.  It uses the 220 line to provide 110 or 220 
to the transformer.  The new one is 110 so I do not have this option.

I plan to reroute the hi/low switch to a resistor or better yet a light 
bulb to reduce in input voltage at start up.

The original was limited to 110v but with a resistor, I can provide any 
start up voltage I want so I need some help figuring out what resistance 
would be best.

There is a time delay relay that precludes putting any voltage on the 
primary for one minute to allow the tubes to warm up so I presume the 
hi/lo is to reduce the surge upon charging up the caps.

This is a choke input with two 4 mf in parallel across the output and 
somewhere it seemed to imply that the step start was only needed for cap 
input.

As far as I can get with the heavy math, it seems like the resistor 
required would only be a few watts as it is only dealing with the 100k 
bleeder as a load.

Thoughts please.

js

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RE: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Gary Schafer
The 813 and 572 are tubes that should never show color.

73
Gary  K4FMX

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:amradio-
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Wilhite
 Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 12:24 PM
 To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
 Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813
 
 You are most correct John, I was speaking of power tubes not
 the lesser cousins.  I didn't make that clear but in light
 of the subject, I plead not guilty.
 
 Jim
 W5JO
 - Original Message -
 From: John Lawson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
 amradio@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:35 AM
 Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813
 
 
 
 
  On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, Jim Wilhite wrote:
 
  Yes, but we in the amateur service do not even consider
  running them at the max.  Red is ok if you take into
  consideration all parameters and follow design
  considerations.
 
Dave Knepper also writes:
 
 The reason that the tube is a bit cherry red is to
 continually remove built-up gasses inside the tube.
 
 
 
 There is a wealth of practical, hands-on - and also
  theoretical, knowledge available on this List - a rarity
  among reflectors to be sure. Jim has provided myself and
  many others with constant 'good information' regarding AM
  transmitting gear.
 
 
But but but but:  Speaking as a design engineer,
  lifelong tube-geek, and (moderately succesful) thermionic
  designer - I would like to make the point that plate
  incandescance may, or may not, be 'OK'  depends on the
  device amd the regime it's run in.
 
 
 Unless designed for such dissipation, it is most
  certainly NOT OK to run many tubes at a blush.  The
  venerable 6146 is a case in point - running the plates red
  in a 6146 alters them irreversibly and generally kills
  'em...  get a 'fresh' one, test it for Gm, run it good and
  red for a while, then re-test.  ooops
 
There are of course tubes designed to run red, even
  bright yellow - like the various radiation-cooled tubes -
  IIRC 4-65s, etc...  There are some tubes, like the 833,
  that can stand a little color and not get terribly upset.
 
 
Running plates red does not, in most cases, re-adsorb
  gasses - if anything it facilitates thier release -
  depends entirely on the plate alloy, thickness, and any
  coating, element spacing, grid material and design, spacer
  materials, etc., etc..  You can't just make generic
  generalizations like this... the situation is way more
  complex. Red plates also has implications for permanent
  grid damage - not to mention that fact that we want that
  plate to collect electrons, not emit a bunch of them... ;}
 
 
And as for running them to the max - all tubes have a
  point of maximum 'efficiency' where the power transfer
  function is optimal.  Is the plate red at that place under
  the curves?  If it's a radiation-cooled tube, you bet.  If
  it's a 6146 - it just died. And just who is the we you
  speak of? ;} I run my Valiant on the raggedy edge most of
  the time - and I've chewed up one brand new set of finals
  finding out just where that edge is... d'oh!  But now I
  know just how to get the max out of the transmitter and
  still keep the Output Devices happy - even if I do make
  'em sweat good and hard...
 
 
Anyway - the study of the theory and design of vacuum
  tubes is pretty damn fascinating to me - and if anyone is
  interested, I have a fairly comprehensive bibliography on
  the subject that I'd be happy to post, if there is any
  interest.   And seeing as how most of us are using power
  tubes, and building / operating devices using power
  tubes - might save some bucks in the long run.
 
 
 Just my 200 millidollar for a Monday Morning...
 
 
 
Cheers and Best of the Season
 
 
  John
  KB6SCO
  DM09fg
 
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RE: Re: [AMRadio] Antenna's..

2006-12-11 Thread Craig Carter

Hi Brett,

OK, I've never run one before, this is my first 'multi' band. But I'll clue 
you on what I found... I've got one half of the dipole at about level. The 
other side drops down... not like an inverted V, but a slight slope. The 
slope side also has a slight dogleg. The entire antenna is more of an L 
than a dipole, and I think it ended up at about 123' 9. It is made with 
insulated stranded #14 copper clad steel wire. (no stretching) Since I knew 
it would be WAY out of resonance, I used real porcelain end insulators and 
a one foot glass insulator in the middle. I didn't want to be melting any 
insulators while on AM.


I use RG 8 coax. On AM, if I use one of my Apache's or a DX-100 there are 
no coax cooking or heating problems. I am nearly finished restoring a home 
brew 813 modulated by a pair of 811's. While doing full power on the air 
tests the coax gets warm on the bands above 40 meters --- that's not good. 
But I don't have time to do anything about it yet. I imagine I'll have to

 switch the garage shack (where the home brew is) to open wire feeder, but???

My modern rigs, Icom's, or vintage SSB gear doesn't even begin to heat up 
the coax on SSB or CW, even if I use my ancient Warrior amp. I've never 
checked it on PSK, but I doubt it would get hot.


I use the 2060 and have to admit, it's a great tuner. It is kind of a pain 
having another stage to tune, but the antenna sure works great for 
everything from chewin the rag local on 75 and 160 to DX.


73  Merry Christmas

Craig K6QI



At 05:40 AM 12/11/2006, you wrote:

Craig,
Thanks for the info.
What power do you run?

I might be able to get 110 feet, maybe a little more
if I put the wire in the tree branches...insulated wire?

I have found that the RG214 coax can get real hot if I run
into an antenna that is not resonant...

I have the heath 2060a, although I hate to use it.

Brett
N2DTS

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig Carter
 Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 11:33 PM
 To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
 Subject: RE: Re: [AMRadio] Antenna's..

 I had one of the Alpha Delta 40  80 and a multi band Alpha
 Delta dipoles. With a tuner, the multi band was one of the
 best dummy loads I've ever had. The 80 / 40  trapless dipole
 was 'eh' on 80, ok on 40. I now have a 125' dipole, bent all
 over he!! and gone, and a Heath SA 2060 tuner with RG 8.
 Works great on every band I try it on, including 6 and 2! I
 would put up the longest wire I could fit, get a BAT (big
 'butted' tuner) and have fun. 73 Craig K6QI


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[AMRadio] FW: Noise in the shack

2006-12-11 Thread John E. Coleman (ARS WA5BXO)
BJ WB5PKD and I are fighting noise again

Noise in the shack Saturday night - Sunday morning - on the HQ145 was S9+
and Don (KYV) was 40 over with noise when he hit 60 over at the top of the
meter was when the noise when quite

BJ sent this to me after the rain, thought it might get a laugh.

 

John, WA5BXO

 

-Original Message-
From: BJ Lowery [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 12:33 PM
To: John Coleman
Subject: Noise in the shack

 

I checked the level in the shack this morning.  When I turned everything on
I had about a 2 on the meter.  Not bad for out there.  It had climbed to a
3.5 when I came into the house.  I checked the receiver in the house and
only had a 1, then I realized I had left the antenna connected to the shack
receiver.  Conclusions, to do away with the noise do not hook up an antenna.
HiHi.

 

I still could hear noise on the AM radio around 1600 KHz.  I did not go
looking for it yet.

 

Later,

 

BJ

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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread david knepper
Exactly, John.  If a transmitting tube is operating within manufacturer's 
specifications and does not show color then don't increase the plate current 
or voltage to do so.


Many transmitting tubes are meant to show some blushing, particularly, 
modulators - this is normal and acceptable.


You wouldn't, of course want to this occur with a 6146, etc.

My point was that many hams mistakenly think that with some tubes like those 
that I mention there should be no blushing - quite the contrary.  Blushing 
is good for tubes and, of course, for women, under certain circumstances!



Merry Christmas

Dave, W3ST
Publisher of the Collins Journal
Secretary to the Collins Radio Association
www.collinsra.com - the CRA Website
Now with PayPal
CRA Nets: 3.805 Mhz every Monday at 8 PM EST
and 14.253 Mhz every Saturday at 12 Noon EST
Collins Chatroom - Daily at 4 PM EST on 14.285  Mhz
- Original Message - 
From: John Lawson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service 
amradio@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 12:50 PM
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813





On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, david knepper wrote:

Zirconium getters best at about 1000 degrees C, this why large metal 
anode transmitting tubes like the 4-400A, 4-1000A, and 3-500 must be 
operated with a dull red to red anode color.  Zirconium also releases 
some gasses and


  [snip]


You can do what you will but I like to run a little color on my large 
bottles.



  You're making the same point I am, Dave: visible plate incandescance 
can be 'optimum' - 'acceptable' - 'acceptable for x-time' - 'not 
recommended - or 'disastrous'. It's device-dependent!


  All of it is a matter of physics, physical electronics, metallurgy, and 
the well-known, well-documented aspects of thermionic device design and 
contruction. It is not so much a matter of desire or personal inclination, 
as it is: at the operating point you have set for the particular device in 
use - is it within the manufacturer's ratings for that service?  If the 
plate shows visible color, so be it. If, on the other hand, a noticeable 
blush means the tube is exceeding it's design-spec, then some consequences 
will come from that... good or bad I cannot say.  If an expensive 
power tube has it's useful life cut in half, or more, from 'abuse' - 
especially if it's a fairly 'rare' type - well then



  Dat wuz all I wuz tryin' t' say.


   Cheers  and Best of the Season!


John
KB6SCO
DM09fg

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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread david knepper
Did you ever know that the 811A's in the Collins 30L-1 do show color under 
modulation?  If any one of the four tubes does not, then, that tube should 
be replaced.


An 813 normally does not show color, unless the plate is the metal variety 
and not the carbon plate.  I would agree that this tube should operate 
without any blushing whatsoever.



Dave, W3ST
Publisher of the Collins Journal
Secretary to the Collins Radio Association
www.collinsra.com - the CRA Website
Now with PayPal
CRA Nets: 3.805 Mhz every Monday at 8 PM EST
and 14.253 Mhz every Saturday at 12 Noon EST
Collins Chatroom - Daily at 4 PM EST on 14.285  Mhz
- Original Message - 
From: Gary Schafer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service' 
amradio@mailman.qth.net

Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 1:34 PM
Subject: RE: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813



The 813 and 572 are tubes that should never show color.

73
Gary  K4FMX


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:amradio-
[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Wilhite
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 12:24 PM
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

You are most correct John, I was speaking of power tubes not
the lesser cousins.  I didn't make that clear but in light
of the subject, I plead not guilty.

Jim
W5JO
- Original Message -
From: John Lawson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
amradio@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:35 AM
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813




 On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, Jim Wilhite wrote:

 Yes, but we in the amateur service do not even consider
 running them at the max.  Red is ok if you take into
 consideration all parameters and follow design
 considerations.

   Dave Knepper also writes:

The reason that the tube is a bit cherry red is to
continually remove built-up gasses inside the tube.



There is a wealth of practical, hands-on - and also
 theoretical, knowledge available on this List - a rarity
 among reflectors to be sure. Jim has provided myself and
 many others with constant 'good information' regarding AM
 transmitting gear.


   But but but but:  Speaking as a design engineer,
 lifelong tube-geek, and (moderately succesful) thermionic
 designer - I would like to make the point that plate
 incandescance may, or may not, be 'OK'  depends on the
 device amd the regime it's run in.


Unless designed for such dissipation, it is most
 certainly NOT OK to run many tubes at a blush.  The
 venerable 6146 is a case in point - running the plates red
 in a 6146 alters them irreversibly and generally kills
 'em...  get a 'fresh' one, test it for Gm, run it good and
 red for a while, then re-test.  ooops

   There are of course tubes designed to run red, even
 bright yellow - like the various radiation-cooled tubes -
 IIRC 4-65s, etc...  There are some tubes, like the 833,
 that can stand a little color and not get terribly upset.


   Running plates red does not, in most cases, re-adsorb
 gasses - if anything it facilitates thier release -
 depends entirely on the plate alloy, thickness, and any
 coating, element spacing, grid material and design, spacer
 materials, etc., etc..  You can't just make generic
 generalizations like this... the situation is way more
 complex. Red plates also has implications for permanent
 grid damage - not to mention that fact that we want that
 plate to collect electrons, not emit a bunch of them... ;}


   And as for running them to the max - all tubes have a
 point of maximum 'efficiency' where the power transfer
 function is optimal.  Is the plate red at that place under
 the curves?  If it's a radiation-cooled tube, you bet.  If
 it's a 6146 - it just died. And just who is the we you
 speak of? ;} I run my Valiant on the raggedy edge most of
 the time - and I've chewed up one brand new set of finals
 finding out just where that edge is... d'oh!  But now I
 know just how to get the max out of the transmitter and
 still keep the Output Devices happy - even if I do make
 'em sweat good and hard...


   Anyway - the study of the theory and design of vacuum
 tubes is pretty damn fascinating to me - and if anyone is
 interested, I have a fairly comprehensive bibliography on
 the subject that I'd be happy to post, if there is any
 interest.   And seeing as how most of us are using power
 tubes, and building / operating devices using power
 tubes - might save some bucks in the long run.


Just my 200 millidollar for a Monday Morning...



   Cheers and Best of the Season


 John
 KB6SCO
 DM09fg

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RE: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Gary Schafer
The 811A should show a barely perceptible red color at maximum dissipation
(per the RCA tube manual).

The 30L-1 pushes the tubes a little beyond their limits. Add a little speech
processing and they get pushed even harder.

73
Gary  K4FMX

 -Original Message-
 From: david knepper [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 2:09 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
 Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813
 
 Did you ever know that the 811A's in the Collins 30L-1 do show color under
 modulation?  If any one of the four tubes does not, then, that tube should
 be replaced.
 
 An 813 normally does not show color, unless the plate is the metal variety
 and not the carbon plate.  I would agree that this tube should operate
 without any blushing whatsoever.
 
 
 Dave, W3ST
 Publisher of the Collins Journal
 Secretary to the Collins Radio Association
 www.collinsra.com - the CRA Website
 Now with PayPal
 CRA Nets: 3.805 Mhz every Monday at 8 PM EST
 and 14.253 Mhz every Saturday at 12 Noon EST
 Collins Chatroom - Daily at 4 PM EST on 14.285  Mhz
 - Original Message -
 From: Gary Schafer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: 'Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service'
 amradio@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 1:34 PM
 Subject: RE: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813
 
 
  The 813 and 572 are tubes that should never show color.
 
  73
  Gary  K4FMX
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:amradio-
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Wilhite
  Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 12:24 PM
  To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
  Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813
 
  You are most correct John, I was speaking of power tubes not
  the lesser cousins.  I didn't make that clear but in light
  of the subject, I plead not guilty.
 
  Jim
  W5JO
  - Original Message -
  From: John Lawson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
  amradio@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 10:35 AM
  Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813
 
 
  
  
   On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, Jim Wilhite wrote:
  
   Yes, but we in the amateur service do not even consider
   running them at the max.  Red is ok if you take into
   consideration all parameters and follow design
   considerations.
  
 Dave Knepper also writes:
  
  The reason that the tube is a bit cherry red is to
  continually remove built-up gasses inside the tube.
  
  
  
  There is a wealth of practical, hands-on - and also
   theoretical, knowledge available on this List - a rarity
   among reflectors to be sure. Jim has provided myself and
   many others with constant 'good information' regarding AM
   transmitting gear.
  
  
 But but but but:  Speaking as a design engineer,
   lifelong tube-geek, and (moderately succesful) thermionic
   designer - I would like to make the point that plate
   incandescance may, or may not, be 'OK'  depends on the
   device amd the regime it's run in.
  
  
  Unless designed for such dissipation, it is most
   certainly NOT OK to run many tubes at a blush.  The
   venerable 6146 is a case in point - running the plates red
   in a 6146 alters them irreversibly and generally kills
   'em...  get a 'fresh' one, test it for Gm, run it good and
   red for a while, then re-test.  ooops
  
 There are of course tubes designed to run red, even
   bright yellow - like the various radiation-cooled tubes -
   IIRC 4-65s, etc...  There are some tubes, like the 833,
   that can stand a little color and not get terribly upset.
  
  
 Running plates red does not, in most cases, re-adsorb
   gasses - if anything it facilitates thier release -
   depends entirely on the plate alloy, thickness, and any
   coating, element spacing, grid material and design, spacer
   materials, etc., etc..  You can't just make generic
   generalizations like this... the situation is way more
   complex. Red plates also has implications for permanent
   grid damage - not to mention that fact that we want that
   plate to collect electrons, not emit a bunch of them... ;}
  
  
 And as for running them to the max - all tubes have a
   point of maximum 'efficiency' where the power transfer
   function is optimal.  Is the plate red at that place under
   the curves?  If it's a radiation-cooled tube, you bet.  If
   it's a 6146 - it just died. And just who is the we you
   speak of? ;} I run my Valiant on the raggedy edge most of
   the time - and I've chewed up one brand new set of finals
   finding out just where that edge is... d'oh!  But now I
   know just how to get the max out of the transmitter and
   still keep the Output Devices happy - even if I do make
   'em sweat good and hard...
  
  
 Anyway - the study of the theory and design of vacuum
   tubes is pretty damn fascinating to me - and if anyone is
   interested, I have a fairly comprehensive bibliography on
   the subject 

[AMRadio] Re: Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread ne1s

david knepper writes:
Zirconium getters best at about 1000 degrees C, this why large metal anode 
transmitting tubes like the 4-400A, 4-1000A, and 3-500 must be operated 
with a dull red to red anode color. 


It's also why it's used to encrust tweezers ;) 


-Larry/NE1S
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RE: Re: [AMRadio] Antenna's..

2006-12-11 Thread Brett gazdzinski
Yes, I think it can get to the point where its important,
say if you run 700 watts of carrier power and make 
long transmissions

Now open wire line does not have that problem, but you
need a balanced tuner.

Shielding a balanced tuner that is good for
700 watts of carrier, and making it easy to jump
between 160 and 10 meters seems a bit tough to do.

Using an unbalanced tuner on a non resonant antenna
at high power does not seem to work very well, the tuner 
might be fine, but losses in the coax are high, in other 
places you might be at a high voltage point 
and have arcing the tuner.

That is why I might try the alpha delta, its not going to
work great on 160, only fair on 80, but it should
be able to be made resonant enough to allow a tuner or no tuner
operation. At least, that is what THEY say...

Brett
N2DTS

 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig Carter
 Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 1:36 PM
 To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
 Subject: RE: Re: [AMRadio] Antenna's..
 
 Hi Brett,
 
 OK, I've never run one before, this is my first 'multi' band. 
 But I'll clue 
 you on what I found... I've got one half of the dipole at 
 about level. The 
 other side drops down... not like an inverted V, but a slight 
 slope. The 
 slope side also has a slight dogleg. The entire antenna is 
 more of an L 
 than a dipole, and I think it ended up at about 123' 9. It 
 is made with 
 insulated stranded #14 copper clad steel wire. (no 
 stretching) Since I knew 
 it would be WAY out of resonance, I used real porcelain end 
 insulators and 
 a one foot glass insulator in the middle. I didn't want to be 
 melting any 
 insulators while on AM.
 
 I use RG 8 coax. On AM, if I use one of my Apache's or a 
 DX-100 there are 
 no coax cooking or heating problems. I am nearly finished 
 restoring a home 
 brew 813 modulated by a pair of 811's. While doing full power 
 on the air 
 tests the coax gets warm on the bands above 40 meters --- 
 that's not good. 
 But I don't have time to do anything about it yet. I imagine 
 I'll have to
   switch the garage shack (where the home brew is) to open 
 wire feeder, but???
 
 My modern rigs, Icom's, or vintage SSB gear doesn't even 
 begin to heat up 
 the coax on SSB or CW, even if I use my ancient Warrior amp. 
 I've never 
 checked it on PSK, but I doubt it would get hot.
 
 I use the 2060 and have to admit, it's a great tuner. It is 
 kind of a pain 
 having another stage to tune, but the antenna sure works great for 
 everything from chewin the rag local on 75 and 160 to DX.
 
 73  Merry Christmas
 
 Craig K6QI
 
 
 
 At 05:40 AM 12/11/2006, you wrote:
 Craig,
 Thanks for the info.
 What power do you run?
 
 I might be able to get 110 feet, maybe a little more
 if I put the wire in the tree branches...insulated wire?
 
 I have found that the RG214 coax can get real hot if I run
 into an antenna that is not resonant...
 
 I have the heath 2060a, although I hate to use it.
 
 Brett
 N2DTS
 
   -Original Message-
   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig Carter
   Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 11:33 PM
   To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
   Subject: RE: Re: [AMRadio] Antenna's..
  
   I had one of the Alpha Delta 40  80 and a multi band Alpha
   Delta dipoles. With a tuner, the multi band was one of the
   best dummy loads I've ever had. The 80 / 40  trapless dipole
   was 'eh' on 80, ok on 40. I now have a 125' dipole, bent all
   over he!! and gone, and a Heath SA 2060 tuner with RG 8.
   Works great on every band I try it on, including 6 and 2! I
   would put up the longest wire I could fit, get a BAT (big
   'butted' tuner) and have fun. 73 Craig K6QI
  
 
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Re: [AMRadio] Re: Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread John Lawson



On Mon, 11 Dec 2006, ne1s wrote:



It's also why it's used to encrust tweezers ;)



 Perhaps you can also tell me why dennilfloss bushes will grow in Montana 
- but do so badly here in NoNev?


 Of course I could always *move* to Montana



Cheers and Best of the Season

John
KB6SCO
Pygmy Pony


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[AMRadio] gettering, 813s and 833s

2006-12-11 Thread John Lyles
As Brett (N2DTS) and Gary (K4FMX) both stated, the 813 should not run with 
color on the plate, as they use a graphite anode. RCA stated this in their 
handbooks, Plate shows no color when tube is operated at maximum CCS or ICAS 
ratings. 833A datasheet says Plate shows and orange-red color when tube is 
operated a maximunm CCS or ICAS ratings.

Taking an 813 into the cherry is not a good idea if you want the tube to last 
very long. I believe that we are all in agreement on that manufacturers 
recommendation, now. 

This is the first i have ever heard that you want anode to be glowing in order 
to get better gettering action  (see below). I would be interested in knowing 
the source of this info. Normally in the big tubes I work with (most are 100 - 
1000 kW range) we get the most outgassing when we overwork tubes, or run them 
at higher duty factor. This advice would seem to be limited to medium sized 
tubes with zirc getters then, as in the large tubes I am speaking of use a cold 
chemical getter inside a glass cartridge which is broken open during the final 
exhaust steps of manufacturing. Heat has no affect on the getter in them. Also, 
we use some large Eimac tubes like 4CW100,000D and 4CW250,000B and these have 
what I believe is a zirc getter 'flap' or 'hat'  mounted along the filament 
mount, which is heated only by the filament power. On these tubes, it is best 
to allow 15 minutes of filament only, no HV, when they have been sitting a 
while. Again, the getter works best with only filament
  heat
and full power doesn't enhance it. 

Zirconium getters best at about 1000 degrees C, this why large metal anode
transmitting tubes like the 4-400A, 4-1000A, and 3-500 must be operated with
a dull red to red anode color.  Zirconium also releases some gasses and
absorbs other gasses at various temperatures.  The varying temperature
across the length of the anode (and as the anode heats and cools) allows the
gettering agent to absorb a wide variety of gasses.


73
John
K5PRO
Thermionic device user with a variety of industrial, scientific and broadcast 
applications. 
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Re: [AMRadio] Re: Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Bry Carling
Lary - I was talking about the kind of set-up with the 6DE7 
that produces a SMALL carrier of say 6 or 8 watts
and then does 90 watts p.e.p. on the voice peaks.

I may be nuts, but my empirical sense tells me that is 
far more impressive sounding in the receiver n the other 
end than the signal from the typical novice rig that runs
75 watts carrier input with Heising mod. OR even a plate 
modulated class C rig with 22.5 watts carrier input and 
90 watts p.e.p.

The power is turned DOWN during the inefficient phase 
of the transmission in other words.

WIth less and less quiescent signal the transmitter appraoches 
the efficiency level of a DSB rig.

 Bry Carling writes:
  
  DX-60 followed by an 813 RF linear or SB200. 
  
  Versus: 
  
  813 screen modulated final using the same method that sets 
  the quiescent carrier level at about 10% of peak signal. 
  
  Which would be more efficient?  
  
 
 It's my understanding that from a 1st order analysis (ignoring  subtleties 
 like what plate voltage they are being run at, any differences in 
 efficiencies between the tube types, output network design, etc, etc.), the 
 plate efficiencies would theoretically be the same between a 
 screen-modulated stage and a class AB linear amplifier stage amplifying an 
 AM signal, since they are both essentially efficiency modulation 
 techniques. 
 
 73.,
  -Larry/NE1S
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[AMRadio] AM 813s X 813s

2006-12-11 Thread Rbethman

Hello All,

Take a look at W3BYM's pair of 813s modulating a pair of 813s.

A VERY robust, well designed, engineered, AND FINE sounding Homebrew!

My recommendation would be to get the back issues.  The price of back 
issues is $3.75 ea.  The specific issues are:


  Number 153   -   February 2002
  Number 154   -   March 2002
  Number 155   -   April 2002

   The text goes into design considerations, parts selection, specific 
transformer information/identification, and tap selection.  Also issues 
as to modification of the BW 850A bandswitch/coil assembly.


--
   Bob - NØDGN
+--+
|  \\//CraftyBob - WitchDoctor \\//  |
|   (@ @)   Bob Bethman - NØDGN(@ @)   |
+---oOOo-(_)-oOOo--oOOo-(_)-oOOo---+
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+---+--+
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+---+--+
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| rbethman(at)comcast.net   \\ ~ ~ //  signal does *NOT* mean  |
|   (/ @ @ /)  that everything is OK  |
+-oOOo-(_)-oOOo+
|   http://home.comcast.net/~rbethman|
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|  SP-6ØØ/NR Type 159, Heath DX-6Ø, Apache, Mohawk, SX-1Ø1, HT-32A |
+---.oooO---Oooo.---.oooO---Oooo.--+
|   () ()Opinions expressed are that() ()  |
|\  (   )  /of my own and do not \  (   )  /   |
| \_ ) ( _/represent those of ANYONE else \_ ) ( _/|
+--+
| Amateur Astronomer - Celestron Nexstar 8  Meade ETX-6Ø  |
|   38 Deg 46'48.62' N - 77 Deg 28'26.89 W   |
+--.oooO---Oooo.---+
|  () ()   |
|   \  (   )  /|
|\_ ) ( _/ |
|ALL E-mail received and sent scanned by AVG   |
+--+


   


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Re: [AMRadio] Lettering or decals for BC 610

2006-12-11 Thread Peter Wittenberg
Bill, Howard Mills has the entire front panel silk screen and has it 
screened done by a professional.. He also repaints the panel and the 
case if you wish in wrinkle black.  His email is [EMAIL PROTECTED] or 
phone at 304-876-6483.

-73- Peter K2LRC

Bill Fondren wrote:

I think I sent this question to the wrong email addressNo telling where it went Anyway  I will send it again.  I just got an old BC 610 on the air.   I need to paint the unit   No problem with painting it, but what is the best way to get the lettering or decals on the front panel.  I went to our local sign shop and the lady warned me that the computer cut letters that small would not be to good.  She tried and she was correct. She said she could have the letters printed on a clear stickon sheet, something like stotch tape I guess.   Has anyone tried any of the decal kits available on the internet. Found some kits that are called water slide decals, but white letters take a special kit.  Hope some one out there has a good solution 
   Bill K5PML 
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[AMRadio] AM 813s X 813s Clarification - ER Magazine

2006-12-11 Thread Rbethman

Hello All,

Take a look at W3BYM's pair of 813s modulating a pair of 813s.

A VERY robust, well designed, engineered, AND FINE sounding Homebrew!

The entirety is available in Electric Radio Magazine

http://www.ermag.com/

My recommendation would be to get the ER back issues.  The price of back
issues is $3.75 ea.  The specific issues are:

  Number 153   -   February 2002
  Number 154   -   March 2002
  Number 155   -   April 2002

   The text goes into design considerations, parts selection, specific
transformer information/identification, and tap selection.  Also issues
as to modification of the BW 850A bandswitch/coil assembly.

--
   Bob - NØDGN
+--+
|  \\//CraftyBob - WitchDoctor \\//  |
|   (@ @)   Bob Bethman - NØDGN(@ @)   |
+---oOOo-(_)-oOOo--oOOo-(_)-oOOo---+
| NØDGN AMRadio Manassas, VA|REAL Tube Radio and AM|
+---+--+
|   Manassas Radio - Home of Homemade Kielbasa  Pirogi|
+---+--+
| Bob Bethman\\\|///  The absence of a danger |
| rbethman(at)comcast.net   \\ ~ ~ //  signal does *NOT* mean  |
|   (/ @ @ /)  that everything is OK  |
+-oOOo-(_)-oOOo+
|   http://home.comcast.net/~rbethman|
| 1 BC-61ØI w/BC-614I,1 T-213/GRC-26 w/BC614I,1 '51 Collins R-39ØA |
|  SP-6ØØ/NR Type 159, Heath DX-6Ø, Apache, Mohawk, SX-1Ø1, HT-32A |
+---.oooO---Oooo.---.oooO---Oooo.--+
|   () ()Opinions expressed are that() ()  |
|\  (   )  /of my own and do not \  (   )  /   |
| \_ ) ( _/represent those of ANYONE else \_ ) ( _/|
+--+
| Amateur Astronomer - Celestron Nexstar 8  Meade ETX-6Ø  |
|   38 Deg 46'48.62' N - 77 Deg 28'26.89 W   |
+--.oooO---Oooo.---+
|  () ()   |
|   \  (   )  /|
|\_ ) ( _/ |
|ALL E-mail received and sent scanned by AVG   |
+--+





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RE: Re: [AMRadio] Antenna's..

2006-12-11 Thread Craig Carter
Hi Brett,
   
  I sent this as reply all I guess, my apologies to the net, but since it's 
started, let's finish it up here in case anyone can add some input to our 
musings.
   
  Please let me, if not us know your experiances with the A - D Multi Bander. I 
just had another thought. I tried that antenna on the recomendations of a buddy 
in Southern Oregon. He said it worked like a charm. A local fellow had the same 
experiance I had with it. I think it may have something to do with the type of 
ground it is OVER, along with hight, dipole or V, etc... No expert here, but 
when I talk to folks that are in much more damp environs than us here in dry 
central California, they confirm much better S/N ratios and ease of tuning out 
of resonance wire antennas. Then again I may be all wet (no pun intended). 
   
  73 Craig K6QI

Brett gazdzinski [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Yes, I think it can get to the point where its important,
say if you run 700 watts of carrier power and make 
long transmissions

Now open wire line does not have that problem, but you
need a balanced tuner.

Shielding a balanced tuner that is good for
700 watts of carrier, and making it easy to jump
between 160 and 10 meters seems a bit tough to do.

Using an unbalanced tuner on a non resonant antenna
at high power does not seem to work very well, the tuner 
might be fine, but losses in the coax are high, in other 
places you might be at a high voltage point 
and have arcing the tuner.

That is why I might try the alpha delta, its not going to
work great on 160, only fair on 80, but it should
be able to be made resonant enough to allow a tuner or no tuner
operation. At least, that is what THEY say...

Brett
N2DTS



 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig Carter
 Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 1:36 PM
 To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
 Subject: RE: Re: [AMRadio] Antenna's..
 
 Hi Brett,
 
 OK, I've never run one before, this is my first 'multi' band. 
 But I'll clue 
 you on what I found... I've got one half of the dipole at 
 about level. The 
 other side drops down... not like an inverted V, but a slight 
 slope. The 
 slope side also has a slight dogleg. The entire antenna is 
 more of an L 
 than a dipole, and I think it ended up at about 123' 9. It 
 is made with 
 insulated stranded #14 copper clad steel wire. (no 
 stretching) Since I knew 
 it would be WAY out of resonance, I used real porcelain end 
 insulators and 
 a one foot glass insulator in the middle. I didn't want to be 
 melting any 
 insulators while on AM.
 
 I use RG 8 coax. On AM, if I use one of my Apache's or a 
 DX-100 there are 
 no coax cooking or heating problems. I am nearly finished 
 restoring a home 
 brew 813 modulated by a pair of 811's. While doing full power 
 on the air 
 tests the coax gets warm on the bands above 40 meters --- 
 that's not good. 
 But I don't have time to do anything about it yet. I imagine 
 I'll have to
 switch the garage shack (where the home brew is) to open 
 wire feeder, but???
 
 My modern rigs, Icom's, or vintage SSB gear doesn't even 
 begin to heat up 
 the coax on SSB or CW, even if I use my ancient Warrior amp. 
 I've never 
 checked it on PSK, but I doubt it would get hot.
 
 I use the 2060 and have to admit, it's a great tuner. It is 
 kind of a pain 
 having another stage to tune, but the antenna sure works great for 
 everything from chewin the rag local on 75 and 160 to DX.
 
 73  Merry Christmas
 
 Craig K6QI
 
 
 
 At 05:40 AM 12/11/2006, you wrote:
 Craig,
 Thanks for the info.
 What power do you run?
 
 I might be able to get 110 feet, maybe a little more
 if I put the wire in the tree branches...insulated wire?
 
 I have found that the RG214 coax can get real hot if I run
 into an antenna that is not resonant...
 
 I have the heath 2060a, although I hate to use it.
 
 Brett
 N2DTS
 
   -Original Message-
   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig Carter
   Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 11:33 PM
   To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
   Subject: RE: Re: [AMRadio] Antenna's..
  
   I had one of the Alpha Delta 40  80 and a multi band Alpha
   Delta dipoles. With a tuner, the multi band was one of the
   best dummy loads I've ever had. The 80 / 40 trapless dipole
   was 'eh' on 80, ok on 40. I now have a 125' dipole, bent all
   over he!! and gone, and a Heath SA 2060 tuner with RG 8.
   Works great on every band I try it on, including 6 and 2! I
   would put up the longest wire I could fit, get a BAT (big
   'butted' tuner) and have fun. 73 Craig K6QI
  
 
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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Donald Sanders
You can use a series resistance in the lead from the heising modulator
reactor to the screen or plate bypassed with a capacitor to pass the audio
and you get reduced carries and more audio punch.

Healthfully yours,
  Don W4BWS
- Original Message - 
From: Bry Carling [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
amradio@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 8:09 AM
Subject: RE: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813


 One major advantage with some of these schemes is
 to run AM with reduced carrier.

 Heath does it with their DX60 and others.

 You can run that screen mod scheme in the final
 OR you can run it a lower level and follow that with
 a linear amplifier.

 I would defer to the RF engineering experts here as to
 which is the better method. Yes, I would love to read an
 comparative assessment of the two methods.

 DX-60 followed by an 813 RF linear or SB200.

 Versus:

 813 screen modulated final using the same method that sets
 the quiescent carrier level at about 10% of peak signal.

 Which would be more efficient?

 I know it is just a personal preference, but I happen to think
 that the Heath screen mod method for reduced carrier
 sounds great and carries a lot of punch on the air.
 I have read that the Heising choke modulation method
 will only get the signal to be 85% modulated, which is not
 at all bad. It just means you have a nice fat carrier (unlike
 the reduced carrier methods) and a little more carrier than
 with plate modulation

 What say the transmitter design aficionados out there?

 73 de AF4K, Bry



  I understand the efficiency problems but isn't this sort of academic
  when talking about a max 300 w carrier?  Won't two 813's produce that
  much even when run inefficiently?
 
  Surely it would be an improvement over using the Heath SB200 and the
  Ranger... no?
 
  Any thoughts?
 
  js
 
 
  Jack,
 
 Screen modulation is another form of efficiency modulation that
will
  behave a lot like an AM linear amplifier in terms of capability for a
given
  tube. Your SB-200 has 2 X 160 watts of dissipation available, and the
dual
  813 has 2 X 125 watts dissipation available. IMHO the 813 in ICAS rating
is
  more conservatively rated than the 572B, so I'd think this is a wash
between
  the two. I have a Central electronics 600L linear amplifier with a grid
  driven single 813 in class Ab2. On AM the single 813 is happy at 70
watts RF
  out, but it will do 100 watts AM and modulate upward 100%. It does blush
a
  little but as long as I talk the red stays away. The drive need is under
5
  watts too with that 813.
 
 Screen modulation, although relatively simple, requires the screen
audio
  drive to stay linear when the screen current varies from zero to fairly
high
  level. This means the screen modulator needs to have a low source
impedance,
  and some inverse feedback is helpful. One approach is to use something
like
  a triode connected beam power tube as a cathode follower to drive the
  screen. You can also use a low power ( 10 watts or so ) modulator
circuit
  with a small modulation transformer for the 813 screen.
 
  Regards,
  Jim
  JKO
 
 
  --
  No virus found in this outgoing message.
  Checked by AVG Free Edition.
  Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.15/581 - Release Date:
12/9/2006
  3:41 PM
 
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Re: [AMRadio] Lettering or decal for BC 610

2006-12-11 Thread SBJohnston

I've seen some good deals on p-touch machines and labels at buy.com

Steve WD8DAS
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Re: [AMRadio] Antenna's..

2006-12-11 Thread Rbethman

Group,

I've got one of the Multi-Band Alpha Delta's up, and have had for about 
8+ years.


For my Apache it is fine, it receives DARN good on my R-390A and 
SP-600.  I've even gotten 6mtr on it with the SP-600.  NO tuner.


I've run my TS-930 SAT, my DX-60 with an Amp Supply LK-500Z, AND my 
BC-610 and T-213.


The ONLY problem that has cropped up is the BC-610  T-213.  Neither of 
them wants ANYTHING to do with the inductor in the 80/40 element.  It is 
NOT a trap!  I suppose if it was a trap, those old Beasts MIGHT work 
with it too!


QSOs from here in Virginia to NY, PA, NJ, SC, NC, FL,  MI.

Bob - N0DGN

Craig Carter wrote:

Hi Brett,
   
  I sent this as reply all I guess, my apologies to the net, but since it's started, let's finish it up here in case anyone can add some input to our musings.
   
  Please let me, if not us know your experiances with the A - D Multi Bander. I just had another thought. I tried that antenna on the recomendations of a buddy in Southern Oregon. He said it worked like a charm. A local fellow had the same experiance I had with it. I think it may have something to do with the type of ground it is OVER, along with hight, dipole or V, etc... No expert here, but when I talk to folks that are in much more damp environs than us here in dry central California, they confirm much better S/N ratios and ease of tuning out of resonance wire antennas. Then again I may be all wet (no pun intended). 
   
  73 Craig K6QI


snip
  



That is why I might try the alpha delta, its not going to
work great on 160, only fair on 80, but it should
be able to be made resonant enough to allow a tuner or no tuner
operation. At least, that is what THEY say...

Brett
N2DTS



  

Bob - N0DGN

--
   Bob - NØDGN
+--+
|  \\//CraftyBob - WitchDoctor \\//  |
|   (@ @)   Bob Bethman - NØDGN(@ @)   |
+---oOOo-(_)-oOOo--oOOo-(_)-oOOo---+
| NØDGN AMRadio Manassas, VA|REAL Tube Radio and AM|
+---+--+
|   Manassas Radio - Home of Homemade Kielbasa  Pirogi|
+---+--+
| Bob Bethman\\\|///  The absence of a danger |
| rbethman(at)comcast.net   \\ ~ ~ //  signal does *NOT* mean  |
|   (/ @ @ /)  that everything is OK  |
+-oOOo-(_)-oOOo+
|   http://home.comcast.net/~rbethman|
| 1 BC-61ØI w/BC-614I,1 T-213/GRC-26 w/BC614I,1 '51 Collins R-39ØA |
|  SP-6ØØ/NR Type 159, Heath DX-6Ø, Apache, Mohawk, SX-1Ø1, HT-32A |
+---.oooO---Oooo.---.oooO---Oooo.--+
|   () ()Opinions expressed are that() ()  |
|\  (   )  /of my own and do not \  (   )  /   |
| \_ ) ( _/represent those of ANYONE else \_ ) ( _/|
+--+
| Amateur Astronomer - Celestron Nexstar 8  Meade ETX-6Ø  |
|   38 Deg 46'48.62' N - 77 Deg 28'26.89 W   |
+--.oooO---Oooo.---+
|  () ()   |
|   \  (   )  /|
|\_ ) ( _/ |
|ALL E-mail received and sent scanned by AVG   |
+--+


   


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Re: [AMRadio] Component ID please

2006-12-11 Thread Jack Schmidling

John E. Coleman (ARS WA5BXO) wrote:
So perhaps the

other device was another resistor to adjust the value so that the meter is
more accurate than it was with just the one resistor.



Well, the bands are black (background yellow) blue. Which would be 17 
meg but it is also open and it is unlikely that both a comp res and a 
wirewound would be open.  So I presume it is a cap and if you say one is 
not necessary, I will just replace the 500k and call it fixed.  There is 
also a 5 meg from the hv to the meter.


Thanks,

js


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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread SBJohnston
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Most 813's had graphite plates, and I never remember
 them showing color, I always thought that would be way beyond
 what they were good for, or was good for them...if they were glowing!

I was testing my single-813 grounded-grid amp the other day and had it making 
500 watts out cw.  The plate was a bit red at peak output, but getting very 
red fast off the peak of the tuning.  

Steve WD8DAS
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Re: [AMRadio] AM 813s X 813s

2006-12-11 Thread Jack Schmidling

Rbethman wrote:

Hello All,

Take a look at W3BYM's pair of 813s modulating a pair of 813s.

A VERY robust, well designed, engineered, AND FINE sounding Homebrew!

My recommendation would be to get the back issues.  The price of back 
issues is $3.75 ea.  The specific issues are:


  Number 153   -   February 2002
  Number 154   -   March 2002
  Number 155   -   April 2002


Most amazing!  The mailman brought me those issues today and I didn't 
get much of a nap while reading them.  I was most interested in the 
power supply but very little was said about it and the schematic was 
incomplete.


As a point of interest, not realizing it was the same thing, I down 
loaded the same article for free about the same time I ordered the back 
issues.


http://www.wb4gwa.netfirms.com/pagethree.html

js



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RE: [AMRadio] Component ID please

2006-12-11 Thread John E. Coleman (ARS WA5BXO)
Jack,
 Check the meter with another meter and see if it is reading 1ma and is
accurate enough.  You can series up a DMM with the movement coil and a
resistor of a few thousand ohms and put a 5V in to the whole series circuit
to see if you're DMM and the meter movement under test is reading the same.
If it is accurate and is indeed a 1 ma movement then just forget the parts
in the meter (connect the movement direct to the terminals) and connect the
meter to the external 5 meg resistor.  In this lash up, the 5 meg resistor
will supply 1ma to the meter, when there is 5KV present, and the meter will
read 500.

Good Luck
John, WA5BXO

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Schmidling
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 5:32 PM
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Component ID please

John E. Coleman (ARS WA5BXO) wrote:
 So perhaps the
 other device was another resistor to adjust the value so that the meter is
 more accurate than it was with just the one resistor.


Well, the bands are black (background yellow) blue. Which would be 17 
meg but it is also open and it is unlikely that both a comp res and a 
wirewound would be open.  So I presume it is a cap and if you say one is 
not necessary, I will just replace the 500k and call it fixed.  There is 
also a 5 meg from the hv to the meter.

Thanks,

js


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Re: [AMRadio] Screen Modulated 813

2006-12-11 Thread Geoff/W5OMR

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

  

Most 813's had graphite plates, and I never remember
them showing color, I always thought that would be way beyond
what they were good for, or was good for them...if they were glowing!



I was testing my single-813 grounded-grid amp the other day and had it making 
500 watts out cw.  The plate was a bit red at peak output, but getting very 
red fast off the peak of the tuning.  
  


You probably saw a rise in plate current, as well.  Off-resonance. 

I've had 250TH's in my rig (balanced, cross-neutralized, link-coupled) 
and had one show color, while the other did not.


Different brands of tubes.. different plate configurations... 
differences all over.  but, they still dipped at the same place, and 
drew the same amount of current off-resonance, and drew different shades 
of red, depending on which tube you look at.


--
73

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[AMRadio] ARRL asks for modification of 80 meter plan

2006-12-11 Thread Mike Duke, K5XU

FYI,

This was posted on the ARRL site today, see
http://www.arrl.org/news/stories/2006/12/11/100/?nc=1

K5XU


League Asks FCC to Postpone, Modify Part of 75-Meter
Band Change

NEWINGTON, CT, Dec 11, 2006 -- In separate petitions
today, the ARRL asked the FCC to postpone the change
in allocation for 3600 to 3635 kHz while it considers
a request to maintain the status quo in the segment.
The so-called omnibus Report and Order (RO) in WT
Docket 04-140, which included moving the lower edge of
the Amateur Extra 75-meter phone band to 3600 kHz, is
set to go into effect Friday, December 15. The League
wants the Commission to rectify the unintended
consequence of the expansion by moving the dividing
line between the narrowband and wideband segments of
80/75 meters to 3635 kHz. This would keep 3600 to 3635
kHz available to General and higher licensees for
RTTY, data and CW and open to Novice and Tech Plus
licensees for CW. The requested change also would
maintain access to the automatically controlled
digital subband, 3620 to 3635 kHz. In a Petition for
Reconsideration, the League emphasized that it was not
seeking reconsideration of the entire 75-meter phone
band expansion.

Rather, we ask only that the Commission restore the
privileges unintentionally withdrawn from those who
operate and who utilize automatically controlled
narrowband digital stations between 3620 and 3635
kHz, the League said. The ARRL pointed out that while
the RO left unchanged rules permitting automatically
controlled narrowband digital in that segment, it
eliminated RTTY and data as permitted emissions above
3600 kHz. The ARRL also filed a Petition for Partial
Stay of Effective Date of Rule pending final action on
its reconsideration petition.

To justify its far greater-than-requested expansion,
the League asserted, the FCC relied on the flawed
logic of a handful of commenters who specifically
asked for a 3600 to 4000 kHz phone band. Some
commenters had made the case during the proceeding
that the CW subband is vastly underutilized while
space for SSB is at a premium.

It affects considerably more than just those two
operating modes, the ARRL said of the expansion.
Narrowband RTTY and data modes are increasingly used
at 80 meters as well, and substantial numbers of RTTY
and data users stand to be displaced, as well as
precluded entirely, by the extent of the telephony
subband expansion there.

The League contends the FCC contradicted itself by
saying the rule revisions wouldn't result in any
licensee losing spectrum privileges. But operating
privileges have been lost by the extent of the
expansion at 80 meters, the reconsideration petition
states. The expansion also significantly burdens and
adversely impacts CW nets above 3600 kHz -- including
emergency and public service nets -- most, if not all,
of which will have to cease operating or change
frequency, the League added.

Most important, however, is the loss of spectrum for
automatically controlled digital modes. The ARRL
petition cites the comments of several League members
decrying the loss of spectrum for PACTOR, CW and RTTY.
The Winlink 2000 system was cited as a best practice
by several post-Hurricane Katrina reviews, including
the Congressional 'Failure of Initiative' report,
remarked ARRL South Texas Section Emergency
Coordinator Jerry Reimer, KK5CA.

The ARRL says shifting the band edge slightly upward
would provide a simple and equitable fix to the
obvious error in the RO.

This is neither a minor matter nor an academic
exercise in future band planning, the ARRL concluded.
It is an urgent problem which, unless corrected,
affects a substantial number of existing Amateur Radio
fixed facilities and an even more substantial number
of mobile facilities.



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Re: [AMRadio] ARRL asks for modification of 80 meter plan

2006-12-11 Thread Jim Wilhite
Sore losers aren't they.  Want more digital and CW.  I am 
surprised they waited this long.


Jim
W5JO






FYI,

This was posted on the ARRL site today, see
http://www.arrl.org/news/stories/2006/12/11/100/?nc=1

K5XU


League Asks FCC to Postpone, Modify Part of 75-Meter
Band Change



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Re: [AMRadio] Component ID please

2006-12-11 Thread Jack Schmidling

John E. Coleman (ARS WA5BXO) wrote:

Jack,
 Check the meter with another meter and see if it is reading 1ma and is
accurate enough. 


Actually, with the new 500k in the meter, it reads 10v with 10v in. 
Couldn't think of anything with a higher DC voltage to calibrate with 
but at least is is functioning and in the ball park.


js

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Re: [AMRadio] ARRL asks for modification of 80 meter plan

2006-12-11 Thread John Wright
naw, it took them this long to find an excuse.
CW is dead and the digital modes are only used by a
very few.  They can move just like we can.

John
N1fcu
--- Jim Wilhite [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Sore losers aren't they.  Want more digital and CW. 
 I am 
 surprised they waited this long.
 
 Jim
 W5JO
 
 
 
 
 
  FYI,
 
  This was posted on the ARRL site today, see
 

http://www.arrl.org/news/stories/2006/12/11/100/?nc=1
 
  K5XU
 
 
  League Asks FCC to Postpone, Modify Part of
 75-Meter
  Band Change
 
 

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[AMRadio] BW Capacitors

2006-12-11 Thread Geoff/W5OMR
Bless their heart, someone on here, a while back, sent me a catalog from 
BW and their Air Variable Butterfly capacitors.


The list had the different butterfly capacitors (namely, the CX series) 
and I can't find that thing around here to save my soul.


If anyone has a listing of the caps, and their values, would they please 
list them?


Specifically, the CX-77, and CX-82.

AdvTHANKSance

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[AMRadio] Multi-Elmac PS-2 Power Supply Schematic

2006-12-11 Thread crawfish
Does anyone have a PS-2 or M-1070 power supply schematic which is used on the 
AF-67? I can't find mine, and trying to rebuild one for a friend.
 Joe W4AAB
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RE: [AMRadio] Component ID please

2006-12-11 Thread John Coleman ARS WA5BXO
Well then that proves that the movement is indeed a 1ma movement.
Now you need to remove the 500K ohm if you are going to be using it with an
external 5Meg else you will be 10 percent off in measurments.  You could
also leave the 500K inside, and replace the external 5 meg with a 4.5 meg.

The total resistance needs to be 5 meg to use a multiplier of 10 on
the scale. 

If you leave the total resistance a 5.5 meg (5 meg +500K) then you
will need to multiply the meter reading by 11 instead of just 10. That's too
difficult. 

If you want a full scale reading of 2KV (multiply the scale by 4)
then the total resistance should be 2 MEG.

John

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jack Schmidling
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 9:55 PM
To: Discussion of AM Radio in the Amateur Service
Subject: Re: [AMRadio] Component ID please

John E. Coleman (ARS WA5BXO) wrote:
 Jack,
  Check the meter with another meter and see if it is reading 1ma and is
 accurate enough. 

Actually, with the new 500k in the meter, it reads 10v with 10v in. 
Couldn't think of anything with a higher DC voltage to calibrate with 
but at least is is functioning and in the ball park.

js

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Re: [AMRadio] Step Start

2006-12-11 Thread Jack Schmidling

John E. Coleman (ARS WA5BXO) wrote:

Jack I would dispense with the startup circuit.  With the choke input filter
system and only 4mf of output capacitance you want need a start up circuit.


It's a total of 8 mf for the record but I am now thinking that the 
hi/low switch was for low power tune up and had nothing to do with start up.


I have it rewired now for 110 and have a light bulb simulating the 
xformer and notice a quirk with the time delay.  The contactor clacks on 
after 60 seconds but if I shut if off I have to wait some period of time 
before it will time out at 60 seconds because of the latent heat.  Seems 
like it is only good for initial turn on.


I got bored trying to figure out how long it takes to cool down.

One more thing, the 866's have strange flakes of some sort of metal that 
adhere to the inside of the tube and I can't seem to shake them down. 
They kling to the glass as like from static electricity.  Should I be 
concerned about these and not use them?


js


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Re: [AMRadio] Component ID please

2006-12-11 Thread Jack Schmidling

John Coleman ARS WA5BXO wrote:

Well then that proves that the movement is indeed a 1ma movement.
Now you need to remove the 500K ohm if you are going to be using it with an
external 5Meg else you will be 10 percent off in measurments.  You could
also leave the 500K inside, and replace the external 5 meg with a 4.5 meg.


Well that is strange as I was only guessing at the 5 meg.  According to 
my notes it is 5.6 and is already in there and presumed to work with the 
500k in the meter.  Something's not right here.  I may have read the 5.6 
incorrectly and will check it again tomorrow.


However, the absolute value does not seem all that important to me. 
It's just an indicator that things are normal.  I can measure the 
voltage directly and note where that is on the meter and extrapolate 
from there if/when things change.  I'm pretty easy to please.  I guess 
you can translate that to lazy.


Thanks,

js

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Re: [AMRadio] Multi-Elmac PS-2 Power Supply Schematic

2006-12-11 Thread BigAlTyson
The M1070 and PS2 manuals are both on the BAMA website.
 Al Tyson
 WB6HPF
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