Re: [apple-crop] Copper and Dogs

2015-08-19 Thread Fleming, William
 Pathologist,
 Hudson Valley Lab, P.O. Box 727, Highland, NY 12528
 Cell: 845-594-3060
 

  On Aug 18, 2015, at 10:58 AM, Fleming, William w...@montana.edu
 wrote:
 
  Lee, can't help you on reading your date but we had a
 35 lb. drum of strep dated 1972 that I didn't trust. Had the  guys in the lab 
plate it out, it killed all the bacteria  they introduced it to.
  The drum had been stored in a cool dry place Bill Fleming   Montana 
  State University   Western Ag Research Center   580 Quast Lane   
  Corvallis, MT 59828 -Original Message-   From: 
  apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
 [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net]
 On Behalf Of lee elliott
  Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2015 5:52 AM   To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net  
   Subject: Re: [apple-crop] apple-crop Digest, Vol 56,  Issue 8 Just 
  my personal experience, dont know if any studies  made, I think a lot of the 
  problem is copper deficiancy,  after doing leaf analysis, my copper levels 
  were in the  bottom of the scale, alsso in soil analysis, added Kocide
 3000 to dormant spray, and small amount (2oz per 100 gal) in  spring sprays, 
also copper added to herbicide spray, copper  levels in leaf analysis came up 
but stil not normal, I have  less  FB and can see the difference. Also, nothing 
 beats staying on top of the situation by walking the orchard  every morning 
and cut it out before it spreads, this works  well for small orchards like 
mine. Most of my FB is shoot  blight, I think strep sprays are a waste of $$$. 
This my be  because the strep is old, does anyone know how to read date  of 
manufacture  on the bag?? Lee Elliott,  Apple  Hill/ Upstart Nursery, 
Winchester, Illinois   
  On Sat, 8/15/15, apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net
 apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net
 wrote:
 
  Subject: apple-crop Digest, Vol 56, Issue 8   To: 
  apple-crop@virtualorchard.net   Date: Saturday, August 15, 2015, 11:00 AM  
 Send apple-crop mailing list   submissions to   
  apple-crop@virtualorchard.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the 
  World Wide Web,  visit   
  http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
  or, via email, send a message with subject or body  'help'
  to
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  You can reach the person managing the list at   
  apple-crop-ow...@virtualorchard.net
 
  When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is  more  specific  than 
  Re: Contents of apple-crop  digest...
 
 
  Today's Topics:
 
 1. Re: Looking for comments on fire  blight  management 
  (Weinzierl, Richard A)  
 --
 
  Message: 1
  Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2015 21:26:58 +   From: Weinzierl, Richard A 
  weinz...@illinois.edu   To: Apple-crop discussion list 
  apple-crop@virtualorchard.net   Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Looking for 
  comments on  fire  blight   management   Message-ID:
  f1da5cce7c3ebe43b873f3bd2ba709a73d62b...@citesmbx6.ad.uillinois.edu
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 
  U of I Kane County Extension Office, 535 South Randall  Road,  St. Charles, 
  IL Rick   From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
  [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net]
  On Behalf Of Vincent Philion
  Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 12:49 PM   To: Apple-Crop 
  apple-crop@virtualorchard.net   Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Looking for 
  comments on  fire  blight management Hi Tim! nice to read you!
 
   I think there are more sources of fire blight  bacteria in  the general 
  environment in the  northeastern USA due to your  woodlots and forests  
  (with feral apples and native hosts  such as
 Hawthorne)  as contrasted with the treeless  conditions around many eastern 
Washington orchards.
 
  I agree! But still is fascinating to see whole areas  without  FB and others 
  with FB, despite similar  weather.
 
  We often make ?false positive? predictions because of  this =  conditions 
  are great for FB, but not FB  develops because  bacteria are simply not 
  there. We  have nice qPCR data  throughout bloom to prove it.
 
   The bacteria (in the hypanthium) need to thrive  in the  nectary in order 
  to reach numbers sufficient to  switch on  their virulence. Once this is 
  accomplished  you have an  infection.
 
  Do you have a good reference for me on this specific  topic?
  When I reviewed the literature, I only found a few  things  from Pusey. This 
  might explain some cases.
 
  We can learn a great deal about interpreting models  by  looking at the 
  weather data around the time that we  are  fairly certain that isolated 
  infection  events  occurred.  We can also look at when  expected infections  
  did not occur.   It  would be very helpful to  me if any of you would share  
  weather data including  rainfall, hourly temperature  (or daily temps

Re: [apple-crop] apple-crop Digest, Vol 56, Issue 8

2015-08-18 Thread Fleming, William
Lee, can't help you on reading your date but we had a 35 lb. drum of strep 
dated 1972 that I didn't trust. Had the guys in the lab plate it out, it killed 
all the bacteria they introduced it to.
The drum had been stored in a cool dry place

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

-Original Message-
From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of lee elliott
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2015 5:52 AM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] apple-crop Digest, Vol 56, Issue 8

Just my personal experience, dont know if any studies made, I think a lot of 
the problem is copper deficiancy, after doing leaf analysis, my copper levels 
were in the bottom of the scale, alsso in soil analysis, added Kocide 3000 to 
dormant spray, and small amount (2oz per 100 gal) in spring sprays, also copper 
added to herbicide spray, copper levels in leaf analysis came up but stil not 
normal, I have less  FB and can see the difference. Also, nothing beats staying 
on top of the situation by walking the orchard every morning and cut it out 
before it spreads, this works well for small orchards like mine. Most of my FB 
is shoot blight, I think strep sprays are a waste of $$$. This my be because 
the strep is old, does anyone know how to read date of manufacture  on the 
bag?? Lee Elliott,  Apple Hill/ Upstart Nursery, Winchester, Illinois

On Sat, 8/15/15, apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net 
apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net wrote:

 Subject: apple-crop Digest, Vol 56, Issue 8
 To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
 Date: Saturday, August 15, 2015, 11:00 AM
 
 Send apple-crop mailing list
 submissions to
     apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
 
 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
     http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
 or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help'
 to
     apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net
 
 You can reach the person managing the list at
     apple-crop-ow...@virtualorchard.net
 
 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more  specific  than 
Re: Contents of apple-crop digest...
 
 
 Today's Topics:
 
    1. Re: Looking for comments on fire blight  management
       (Weinzierl, Richard A)
 
 
 --
 
 Message: 1
 Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2015 21:26:58 +
 From: Weinzierl, Richard A weinz...@illinois.edu
 To: Apple-crop discussion list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
 Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Looking for comments on fire  blight
     management
 Message-ID:
     f1da5cce7c3ebe43b873f3bd2ba709a73d62b...@citesmbx6.ad.uillinois.edu
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
 
 U of I Kane County Extension Office, 535 South Randall Road,  St. Charles, IL
 
 Rick
 
 
 From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
 [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net]
 On Behalf Of Vincent Philion
 Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 12:49 PM
 To: Apple-Crop apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
 Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Looking for comments on fire  blight management
 
 Hi Tim! nice to read you!
 
  I think there are more sources of fire blight bacteria in  the general 
environment in the northeastern USA due to your  woodlots and forests (with 
feral apples and native hosts  such as Hawthorne)  as contrasted with the 
treeless  conditions around many eastern Washington orchards.
 
 I agree! But still is fascinating to see whole areas without  FB and others 
with FB, despite similar weather.
 
 We often make ?false positive? predictions because of this =  conditions are 
great for FB, but not FB develops because  bacteria are simply not there. We 
have nice qPCR data  throughout bloom to prove it.
 
  The bacteria (in the hypanthium) need to thrive in the  nectary in order to 
reach numbers sufficient to switch on  their virulence. Once this is 
accomplished you have an  infection.
 
 Do you have a good reference for me on this specific topic?
 When I reviewed the literature, I only found a few things  from Pusey. This 
might explain some cases.
 
 We can learn a great deal about interpreting models by  looking at the weather 
data around the time that we are  fairly certain that isolated infection events 
 occurred.  We can also look at when expected infections  did not occur.   It 
would be very helpful to  me if any of you would share weather data including  
rainfall, hourly temperature (or daily temps) and especially  leaf wetness 
readings.  Please send data that covers  days from first bloom to about 3 to 4 
weeks after petal  fall.  Excel files are a real time saver.
 
 We?re Also looking for the same type of data?!
 
 Vincent
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Re: [apple-crop] Weed Flamer

2015-06-05 Thread Fleming, William
I used a flamer just last week… on a pre-plant vegetable/small grain research 
project. 8 foot wide behind the tractor. Method is called a stale seed bed.

Have seen several fruit tree flamers in use in North Central Washington in the 
1990s.
My recollections:
All were one big nozzle mounted on the front of the tractor with a trailered 
propane tank.
All the tractors had melted front end plastic body parts, not from escaped 
fires but from prolonged heat.
The flamers wouldn’t damage plastic irrigation components at all but would melt 
plastic tree guards.
The flamers worked excellent on broadleaf weeds, annual grasses so-so, 
perennial  grasses barely.
After a couple years of use the in row vegetation evolved into 100% perennial 
grasses, in the case here, quack grass.
Organic growers had to resort to in row tillage eventually.
I personally could see using a flamer in combination with tillage as an viable 
in row weed control alternative.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of David A. Rosenberger
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2015 8:02 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Weed Flamer

I’ve never used a flame weeder, but I’ve been on a number of tours where they 
were either demonstrated or discussed.  Folks who have actually worked with 
them are probably either retired or too busy to comment, so I’ve summarized my 
recollections from those tours below.  If my memory is faulty, then hopefully 
someone submit corrections and some additional info.
  1.  Flame weeders seem to work well only on very small weeds/grasses (e.g., 
up to 3-6 inches tall) and therefore the flaming must be done frequently (about 
every 2 or 3 weeks?) in warm wet climates if no herbicides are used to inhibit 
seed germination.
  2.  As I recall, one group indicated that flame weeders actually work best if 
there is a bit of dew or moisture on the weeds: the flames heated the surface 
water to destroy the plants.  Although the weeds didn’t look “burned” after the 
flamer passed, they were actually “cooked” and died rapidly thereafter.
  3. At one very large apple and cherry operation in WA state where a 
significant portion of the acreage committed to organic production, the farm 
manager told our tour group that flame weeding “involved a significant learning 
curve.” In their case, as I recall, the learning curve included incineration of 
several tractors when flames got out of control.  Seems that would be less 
likely under eastern conditions where we are unlikely to accumulate a lot of 
dry debris under trees, but then anything is possible.
  4. Finally one warning that my Pennsylvania Dutch grandmother gave to me and 
my cousins when we were small:  Boys who play with fire will wet their beds!


Dave Rosenberger, Plant Pathologist,
Hudson Valley Lab, P.O. Box 727, Highland, NY 12528
Cell: 845-594-3060



On Monday, June 1, 2015, Matt Pellerin 
m...@treworgyorchards.commailto:m...@treworgyorchards.com wrote:
I am interested in the concept of using a weed flamer as a burndown option in 
my apple orchard.  Has anyone had experience using these with fruit trees?  
What would be the pros/cons?

Thanks,
--
Matthew Pellerin
Agricultural Manager
Treworgy Family Orchards
3876 Union St
Levant, ME 04456
www.treworgyorchards.comhttp://www.treworgyorchards.com/
207-884-8354
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Re: [apple-crop] NPR 'The Miracle Apple'

2015-05-28 Thread Fleming, William
Not quite the same story that Goodfruit Grower told a few months ago.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828
406-961-3025
Cell- 406-529-2409

-Original Message-
From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of David Doud
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2015 10:04 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: [apple-crop] NPR 'The Miracle Apple'

On 'Planet Money' today - Jacob Goldstein and Dan Charles spend 15 minutes on 
the state of the apple industry and the Honeycrisp story - 

listen here: 
http://www.npr.org/sections/money/2015/05/27/410085320/episode-627-the-miracle-apple

David Doud
grower - Indiana
this crop looks really nice right now - 
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Re: [apple-crop] non-GMO non-browning apples

2015-03-30 Thread Fleming, William
Braeburn and Cortland are also non-browning.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

-Original Message-
From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of David Doud
Sent: Monday, March 30, 2015 10:42 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: [apple-crop] non-GMO non-browning apples

If anyone has a need for an apple that doesn't brown, I'd be happy to send a 
stick or three of 'Sweet Emma', a chance seedling from grandfathers farm - 
white flesh that doesn't ever even hint of turning brown even while it dries to 
a crisp - a little flattened, red, 2.75, ripe early Oct, mild sweet crisp like 
a RD would dream of being -  vigorous tree, early blooming, very scab 
susceptible, doesn't fill bins like Melrose or Mutsu, loses quality in six 
weeks (would probably respond well to 'Smart-Fresh') - I sell quite a few 
between Oct 5 and Thanksgiving - 

No charge - no obligation - 
David Doud


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Re: [apple-crop] Kasugamycin for fireblight

2015-03-19 Thread Fleming, William
Might want to check availability, my area rep for Kasumin total me they were 
sold out for this season.


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Brian Heatherington
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 2:29 PM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: [apple-crop] Kasugamycin for fireblight

Planning ahead for bloom:
In an area where fireblight is still effectively controlled by streptomycin, 
would it be advisable to rotate to kasugamycin for one or more sprays, purely 
for resistance management? Perhaps when models show a borderline need for 
application? How effective has Kasumin been in Michigan?



--

Brian Heatherington

Beech Creek Farms and Orchards

2011 Georgia Highway 120

Tallapoosa, GA  30176

770-714-8381
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Re: [apple-crop] lightning

2015-01-13 Thread Fleming, William
I’ve never seen lightning damage in an apple orchard but have seen it happen 
several times in grape vineyards. It usually damages the entire row and can 
even cause trellis poles to explode. Vines recover in a couple of years.
My feeling is about the same would happen with apples, if any trees actually 
died it would only be in the vicinity of the strike. Almost all of the new 
orchards I’ve seen use metal screw in anchors and/or metal conduit to support 
trees which should ground the lightning out and limit damage.

It would take some very hefty monofilament to compare to high tensile trellis 
wire.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, MT 59828
406-961-3025

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Arthur Kelly
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2015 9:10 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] lightning

I am not aware of lightning strikes on any wire trellis systems in our area but 
that was always one of the selling points for using monofilament instead of 
wire.

Art Kelly
Kelly Orchards
Acton, ME

On Tue, Jan 13, 2015 at 10:39 AM, Steven Bibula 
sbib...@maine.rr.commailto:sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote:
Anyone know of lightning strikes on wire trellised systems, and the effects on 
the trees?

Has anyone studied the attractiveness of these systems to lightning strikes, 
and whether grounding and foliage has much to do with it?

Steven Bibula
Plowshares Community Farm
Gorham ME


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--
Art Kelly
Kelly Orchards
Acton, ME
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Re: [apple-crop] Planting density for Asian pears

2014-08-01 Thread Fleming, William
I’m only familiar with the 20th Century and Chojuro varieties but they filled 
in a 8’ x 14’ planting nicely. I guess the grower could always cut out every 
other tree if it gets too hard to keep them in their space.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Weinzierl, Richard A
Sent: Friday, August 01, 2014 8:13 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: [apple-crop] Planting density for Asian pears

A new grower bought an Asian pear orchard that was planted a few years ago 
north of Peoria, IL.  Except for pollenizers, it’s all ‘Shinko’, and apparently 
its resistance to fireblight is very good – I saw only one or two infections in 
hundreds of trees.

They have planted trees at very high density (4 feet in-row by 12 feet between 
rows); the trees are at least 12 feet tall.  Is anyone familiar high-density 
production of Asian pears?  And if so, do you have any pruning recommendations? 
 It’s obvious the density and prior pruning practices will not work together.

The fact sheets and similar references that I’ve seen suggest much lower tree 
densities (218 to 242 trees per acre).

Any general thoughts on managing the trees at high density  … and what spacing 
would you recommend for the additional plantings they intend to make?

Rick Weinzierl

Professor and Extension Entomologist
IL SARE PDP Coordinator
Department of Crop Sciences, University of Illinois
S-334 Turner Hall, 1102 S. Goodwin Avenue
Urbana, IL 61801
217-244-2126


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Re: [apple-crop] Deer, Fireblight, Liquid Fence

2014-06-09 Thread Fleming, William
The only deer deterrent I've seen that works long term is a good fence.
I don't doubt you that deer can spread blight. I never believed it until it 
happened to me but fire blight can also be spread from the smoke (or more 
likely ash) from a burn pile.
When a neighbor removed a block of severely blight Bosc pears the plume of 
smoke that expanded from the burn pile exactly matched the subsequent infection 
that occurred on full bloom Gala trees.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828
406-961-3025
Cell- 406-529-2409

-Original Message-
From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of lee elliott
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2014 6:52 AM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: [apple-crop] Deer, Fireblight, Liquid Fence

Deer browsing on young trees is spreading fireblight, I know this is true, a 
small fenced in area in my orchard has little to no fireblight while the rest 
is fire blight city, I am using Liquid Fence,on newly planted trees, its a 
product made from putrified egg whites, this stuff really works but has to be 
applied every 10 days or after major rain storms, problem is its is very 
expensive, a bottle that treats 4 gallons is $30 at the local farm store. I 
would like to know how to make some myself, does anyone know how to do this?? 
Lee Elliott, winchester, Illinois

On Fri, 6/6/14, apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net 
apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net wrote:

 Subject: apple-crop Digest, Vol 42, Issue 14
 To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
 Date: Friday, June 6, 2014, 11:00 AM
 
 Send apple-crop mailing list
 submissions to
     apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
 
 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
     http://virtualorchard.net/mailman/listinfo/apple-crop
 or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help'
 to
     apple-crop-requ...@virtualorchard.net
 
 You can reach the person managing the list at
     apple-crop-ow...@virtualorchard.net
 
 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more  specific  than 
Re: Contents of apple-crop digest...
 
 
 Today's Topics:
 
    1. Re: Sprayer Calibration Between
 Training Styles (Fleming, William)
 
 
 --
 
 Message: 1
 Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2014 09:17:17 -0600
 From: Fleming, William w...@exchange.montana.edu
 To: Apple-crop discussion list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
 Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Sprayer Calibration Between  Training Styles
 Message-ID:
     0ed0d5ff52b2b3469bc620dba56ed85c8963169...@excms.msu.montana.edu
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
 
 Nick, as long as you are getting sufficient coverage in both  growing systems 
I would personally find it easier to mix up  two different tanks with different 
quantities of material  rather than mess with swapping nozzles.
 
 
 
 Bill Fleming
 
 Montana State University
 
 Western Ag Research Center
 
 Corvallis, MT 59828
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
 [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net]
 On Behalf Of Nick Lucking
 Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 12:54 AM
 To: apple-crop discussion list
 Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Sprayer Calibration Between  Training Styles
 
 
 
 Thanks for the responses.  So when you guys use the  spray controllers do you 
try to maintain the same GPA across  all blocks?  Seems like if you don't have 
one (like me)  and you mix a tank to apply across multiple training styles  
with varying row spacing the pesticide rate per acre would  be out of whack 
between them.
 
 
 
 Here's my scenario.  1.5 acres is conventional free  standing and 1.5 is tall 
spindle.  When I did TRV  calculations last season and checked the GPM of 
sprayer  nozzles obviously with the difference in row spacing the  rate was way 
higher for the tall spindle block.  When I  adjusted the gear speed so the GPA 
would match the free  standing block, tractor speed was way too fast ~4 MPH.
 
 
 
 I suppose I could get another set of smaller nozzles for the  tall spindle 
block to try to keep things even between  blocks.
 
 
 
 Any further advise?
 
 
 
 Cheers,
 
 
 
 Nick Lucking
 
 Cannon Valley Orchard
 
 Cannon Falls, MN
 
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Re: [apple-crop] Sprayer Calibration Between Training Styles

2014-06-05 Thread Fleming, William
I use a Raven system on my field crop sprayer and love it. Just punch in the 
gallons per acre you desire and it automatically measures flow and speed then 
tells you if you need to slow down or speed up. As Peter said even though the 
Raven controls nozzle pressure it’s up to you to use a nozzle in the ballpark 
of the desired GPA plus figure in tree row volume.
Ground speed is measured by GPS and is very accurate. Two years ago the Teejet 
GPS, flow meter, pressure control valve and Raven main computer cost about $850 
plus $150 for the 8 foot cable I needed for our sprayer/tractor combo.  The 
computer is the cheapest one Raven makes and will control up to three booms.

I see no reason it wouldn’t work on an airblast sprayer.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, MT 59828

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Peter Werts
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2014 5:22 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Sprayer Calibration Between Training Styles

Nick,

You are correct.  To maintain your target gallon per acre application of water 
you need to consider adjustments to your travel-ground speed,  gallon per 
minute (GPM) flow rate from the nozzle tips and the tree-row width. Changing 
your pressure will impact your droplet size and not do too much to flow rates, 
i.e., it takes a four-fold increase in pressure to double nozzle GPM.

I have been working with other growers in Minnesota and Wisconsin on 
calibration. I commonly find calibration to be significantly off where we have 
variable tree size and row spacing.  In 2012 we calibrated 30 different 
scenarios on 12 sprayers and found over application by 52% and under 
application by 20% to be very common.

The Raven systems are very nice, especially if you have an AgTec.  However you 
still need to make sure your travel speed is calibrated.  If your using a 
high-pressure sprayer, the individual nozzle output should be within 5% of the 
manufactures specified GPM at a specified pressure.

There will be an IPM field day in northeast Iowa on June 20 where we will be 
addressing calibration.  I can send you more information, on this if you like. 
I can also come out to your orchard and help you with this.

Thanks,

Peter


=
Peter Werts
Project Coordinator
Specialty Crop IPM
IPM Institute of North America, Inc.
4510 Regent St.x-apple-data-detectors://0/0
Madison WI 53705x-apple-data-detectors://0/0
Office: 608 232-1410tel:608%20232-1410
Cell: 612 518-0319tel:612%20518-0319
Fax: 608 232-1440tel:608%20232-1440
pwe...@ipminstitute.orgmailto:pwe...@ipminstitute.org
www.ipminstitute.orghttp://www.ipminstitute.org/


On Jun 5, 2014, at 12:47 AM, Nick Lucking 
n...@cannonvalleyorchard.commailto:n...@cannonvalleyorchard.com wrote:
Hi everyone,

Just curious as to how you guys with larger orchards spray blocks in your 
orchards when some might be high density and others free standing.  Do you do a 
couple of calibrations with different gear/pressure settings or just do all of 
one style block at a time?

Cheers,

Nick Lucking
Cannon Valley Orchard
Cannon Falls, MN
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Re: [apple-crop] apples and chemicals

2014-05-05 Thread Fleming, William
The way to beat the GMO controversy, merited or not, is to use genetic mapping 
to find plants with desirable traits then cross them into the targeted crop 
with conventional breeding.
I've talked with several anti GMO folks who have no problem with this method 
but you still can be sure it won't please everyone. 


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

-Original Message-
From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Silsby, Ken
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2014 8:23 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] apples and chemicals

In January, I happened to attend a standing room only presentation on 
communicating about GMO crops at the Mid-Atlantic Convention in Hershey, PA.  
The speaker was from the Center of Science in the Public Interest.  Their web 
site posts a 24 page bulletin on the subject at the link below.  The bulletin 
provides a good review for those who are in position to discuss the issue with 
the public.

Link to Straight Talk on Genetically Engineered Foods:
http://cspinet.org/new/pdf/biotech-faq.pdf

Thanks.

Ken Silsby   Eastern Technical Manager, Apples
Mobile: 716.471.5383 | Fax: 716.204.8065 ksil...@agrofresh.com 

www.agrofresh.com 

 
 

 




-Original Message-
From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Shoemaker, William H
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2014 9:04 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] apples and chemicals

I don't know the answer to this question. I'm curious about it too. I also 
wonder how much of that kind of work is in development. I doubt anyone knows as 
so much of it is done in the private sector. 

But I remember conducting trials of pumpkins in the '90s on some 
virus-resistant GMO pumpkins that derived their genetic material from a 
different species within the cucurbit genus. I believe it was a wild species 
that was incompatible for an intergeneric cross. We really need such resistance 
but it was withdrawn because of perceived market risk. 

Bill
William H. Shoemaker
Retired fruit and vegetable horticulturist University of Illinois 
wshoe...@illinois.edu


My question is this: does anyone know how many of the GMO crops/organisms that 
are currently approved for food crops actually involve genetic transfers among 
widely-separated species as compared to the number of GMOs that involve only 
modifications of genes within plants or the addition of virus coat proteins 
from viruses that are already commonly found in the plant species of interest?
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Re: [apple-crop] Codling Moth Trap and Attractant

2014-04-10 Thread Fleming, William
Pherocon CM-DA work for me. Catch both male and female moths.
Buy them here http://www.trece.com/pherocon.html#


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Raby, Brian
Sent: Thursday, April 10, 2014 1:13 PM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: [apple-crop] Codling Moth Trap and Attractant

All,

I've got a young orchard that will start producing for me this year so I 
figured I better get serious with my pest control.

In some of the research information I've been finding on-line, studies have 
shown that the combination of Pear Ester (PE) and Acetic Acid (AA), along with 
a clear insect trap, will significantly increase your ability to 
capture/monitor Codling Moth activity in the orchard.

Where can one buy this fabulous combination?  Every time I search for Pear 
Ester or clear insect trap, I get taken to more research articles.

A link to where this can be purchased will be outstanding.  Your comments on 
how well (or not) this combination worked for you would be appreciated as well.

Brian Raby
Hortonville Farms
Sheridan, IN
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Re: [apple-crop] Glyphosate alternatives

2014-04-09 Thread Fleming, William
Choteau for preemergent control sprayed in the fall works well for me. Lasts 
all season, any knockdown sprays in the growing season are very limited.
Of course, read the label.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Glen Koehler
Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2014 2:01 PM
To: Apple-crop LISTSERVER
Subject: [apple-crop] Glyphosate alternatives

 A Maine apple grower is exploring alternatives to using glyphosate (e.g. 
Roundup etc.) for vegetation control in tree rows.  The reason is concern about 
immediate and long term effect of glyphosate drift onto trunks.  Despite 
efforts to reduce drift and accurately target herbicide application, grower 
feels there is still too much risk of trunk contact.  There are some lower 
trunk cankers, but whether these are due in part to previous glyphosate 
exposure not determined.

 Orchard is ca. 10 acre pick your own.  Ground cover system is  permanent 
sod alleys/row middles with vegetation suppression in the tree row during 
growing season, with moderate regrowth allowed in late summer - early fall for 
protection against winter low temperatures.  The trees are ca. 15 year old Mac 
and Cortland on M26.  New plantings will be tall spindle.

Previous tree row vegetation management has been annual glyphosate 
application in May-June.  The objective is to find program that will provide 
similar results with less risk of trunk injury than associated with glyphosate.

New approach being considered is tree row application of 2,4-D (for annual 
and perennial broadleaves) + Poast (for annual and perennial grasses) in post 
petal fall period.
Gramoxone (paraquat) as alternative burn down herbicide not acceptable 
because of acute toxicity risk.
Rely provides similar postemergent efficacy as glyphosate (though only Fair 
vs. Good for perennial grass and perennial broadleaf), but may also share the 
same trunk hazard as glyphosate.

 Alley sod management will continue to be regular close mowing.

 Your thoughts on this approach, and the reasons for making this change 
(i.e. concern about glyphosate) will be appreciated.

--
Glen Koehler
University of Maine Cooperative Extension
Pest Management Office
Voice:  207-581-3882
491 College Avenue, Orono, ME  04473
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Re: [apple-crop] Tall spindle trellis

2014-02-20 Thread Fleming, William
We had rows 2200 feet long between end anchors. 4 wires, 10' high with posts 
spaced at 42', 3' deep. End posts were a larger diameter, 4' deep at about a 
45° angle.
Wires and anchors were attached to a 4' long screw in steel anchor with 8 
plate. Ground was basically flat.
No problems holding a bumper crop.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Arthur Kelly
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2014 6:24 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: [apple-crop] Tall spindle trellis

What is the longest length of trellis for tall spindle apple planting that 
growers have experience with?

--
Art Kelly
Kelly Orchards
Acton, ME
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Re: [apple-crop] Frost protection via overhead sprinklers made mattersworse?

2014-02-03 Thread Fleming, William
You have plenty of water but the missing hour definitely could have allowed 
some damage. The accepted method is to leave the water running till ice starts 
melting rapidly. That's usually an hour or two after the sun is shining.
I've had just as good of luck with undertree sprinklers for frost control as 
overhead down to 25F. Advantage is not as much limb breakage from a heavy ice 
load with undertree. 

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

-Original Message-
From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Rye Hefley
Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2014 4:50 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Frost protection via overhead sprinklers made 
mattersworse?

Thanks David will do!

David Doud david_d...@me.com wrote:

slice some incipient fruit thru the equator with your thumbnail or a 
knife - healthy fruit will have pearlescent ovules - damage will show 
up as brown tissue - David Doud voice of experience



On Feb 2, 2014, at 4:12 PM, Rye Hefley wrote:

 
 
 Thanks Con,
 
 The spacing is one 360 degee nozzlee between each tree so each tree is hit 
 from both sides. 
 
 The ice is gone now and the flowers are still fragrant. The petals are a bit 
 translucent. Stems are still green but may be too early to tell anything.
 
 Yeah I worry about the off hour. I guess wait and see. 
 
 Again thanks.
 
 Rye
 
 --
 On Sun, Feb 2, 2014 10:11 AM PST Con.Traas wrote:
 
 Hello Rye,
 I am not very expert in this, as I don't use the system, so hopefully 
 somebody else can add more. Regarding the ice and icicles, these would not 
 necessarily mean you had a problem, as long as there was a coating of 
 unfrozen water on them at all times. This would prevent the ice from 
 dropping below freezing point. The fact that the water turned off could be 
 a problem though, as then there would have been no more unfrozen water, and 
 the ice (and buds encased therein) would drop to the ambient temperature.
 4gph sprinklers might not be adequate I suspect, or would not protect 
 against a more severe frost (it depends too on how close they are spaced). 
 When I looked into getting frost-protection irrigation for my orchards, the 
 water use would have been many times (perhaps 6 or 8 times from memory) 
 what I would have needed for soil mositure deficit irrigation only. I am 
 afriad that I can't shed light on what a good rate would be, but I bet 
 someone else here can.
 The good news is I would be very surprised if your trees were damaged by 
 the ice.
 Con Traas
 Ireland
 
 
 
 From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net on behalf of Rye Hefley
 Sent: Sun 02/02/2014 17:01
 To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
 Subject: [apple-crop] Frost protection via overhead sprinklers made 
 mattersworse?
 
 
 
 Hello,
 
 So last night there was a forecast for 29° for early this morning.  Frost 
 NOT in the forecast.
 
 So I decided the forecast could change to frost while I was sleeping or the 
 forecasters could miss it so I scheduled the sprinklers. This was my first 
 attempt at frost protection as this is the first producing year for the 
 orchard.
 
 First concern:  I set the time too short and the sprinklers turned off at 
 6:30 (worst possible time). Don't ask me what I was thinking when came up 
 with the duration, though I have degree in math, I don't have one in 
 arithmetic. So it was off for an hour before I discovered it and turned it 
 back on.
 
 Second concern:  using 4 gallon/hour micro sprinklers that produce a thick 
 mist, when I went out there at 7:30 the trees (flowers, leaves, wood, set 
 fruit) were encased in 1/4 ice and icicles.
 
 So I think maybe the 4GPH nozzles deliver too little water for frost 
 protection and just made it worse. Also being off for the worse possible 
 hour made it worser still.
 
 What would be your assessment on the damage I did this year? (Fortunately 
 only one variety that I care much about. The others haven't bloomed yet so 
 no water on those.) Will the trees survive the ice? Will the fruit that 
 already set be OK? Kiss the flowers goodbye? Will the new buds make it?
 
 If 4GPH is not sufficient, in the future what would be a better 
 delivery rate. (Assuming I could avoid the arithmetic error from now 
 on.)
 
 Thanks for your insights.
 
 Rye Hefley
 So Cal
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Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp prices

2014-01-31 Thread Fleming, William
 in the 
marketplace.


Dave Rosenberger, Professor of Plant Pathology
Cornell's Hudson Valley Lab, P.O. Box 727, Highland, NY 12528
   Office:  845-691-7231tel:845-691-7231Cell: 
845-594-3060tel:845-594-3060
http://pppmb.cals.cornell.edu/people/dave-rosenberger


On Jan 30, 2014, at 11:52 AM, Fleming, William 
w...@exchange.montana.edumailto:w...@exchange.montana.edu wrote:


Back when I grew apples in North Central Washington they always said you 
couldn't grow good apples down south in the Columbia Basin so hardly anyone 
did. Then someone came up with idea of overhead cooling during the hottest 
days, the Gala and Honeycrisp planting boom started. Huge plantings in the 
Basin and their efficiency of scale flooded the market putting many growers in 
the traditional apple growing areas of Washington out of business.

Cooling addressed the problem caused by 100° plus days but did little for cool 
nighttime temperatures which I feel are essential for growing a good tasting 
apple. Apples from the Basin of all types can look beautiful but taste foul, 
sort of ruins the market for growers nationwide. Fortunately the current trend 
is removing apples and planting wine grapes. Also because of new food safety 
legislation surface canal and irrigation ditch water isn't allowed to get on 
the fruit, overhead cooling water must be treated or come from a well. I 
suspect that even more apples will have to come out due to this. Probably good 
for all of us to get inferior fruit off the market.

Here where I now live in western Montana at 3000 feet we can grow excellent 
Honeycrisp, it's almost like they were bred for the area. Night time 
temperatures are almost always in the 50°s no matter how hot the day.



Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

From: 
apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
 [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of George Brinson
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2014 6:19 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp prices

Same story here on the east coast of Canada  maybe it is the climate in 
which it  is grown. HoneyCrisp tastes horrible!!

George Brinson

From: David Doudmailto:david_d...@me.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 11:35 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion listmailto:apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp prices

 how did anyone find a Honeycrisp that doesn't taste good?

Unfortunately, it's not that hard - We were visiting our son in San Diego in 
October 2012 (no fruit here, might as well take a trip) and visited Whole 
Foods, actually caught an upper level produce employee and chatted - he really 
wanted to turn me onto HoneyCrisp, there was a big display of 4 ones - insipid 
- and not that good of texture either - On to Trader Joe's, big display of 
nasty green 2.25-2.75 HoneyCrisp, obviously off overcropped trees - wish I 
would have taken pictures, but I was on vacation...

The ones in the local stores recently have been respectable @ $2.49 to 
$2.99/pound

It's hard to grow good ones - twice the price but half the pack-out - a real 
temptation to lower standards -

HoneyCrisp has generated apple excitement like none other in the last 30 years 
and has reset the bar - it is the new standard by which other varieties are 
measured and the traditional varieties don't measure up - Jonagored may compete 
in its week, but there's no comparison a couple weeks later -

David



On Jan 29, 2014, at 8:05 PM, Shoemaker, William H wrote:

Now the question is, how did anyone find a Honeycrisp that doesn't taste good? 
Is it the variety? Is it how its grown? Is it postharvest handling? Is it all 
the above? In our markets around Chicago it is really difficult to find high 
quality apples of any variety from Washington. They look beautiful, but lack 
flavor. I think Washington growers produce great apples. They don't show up 
here. I've had excellent Honeycrisp from local orchards in northern Illinois. 
In southern IL, they aren't as good. We get Fuji from MI in our local Aldi that 
are cheap and outstanding to eat. I think local Red Delicious are just 
delicious. But then, everyone knows, Red Delicious is a terrible apple. Why do 
we have so much acreage of this apple?!!

Bill
William H. Shoemaker
Retired fruit and vegetable horticulturist
University of Illinois
wshoe...@illinois.edumailto:wshoe...@illinois.edu


The problem is, poorly grown HC are just not good tasting apples. They need a 
cold winter, heavy thinning to avoid over cropping, calcium sprays every 4-6 
days and careful handling. ///

On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 2:59 PM, Steven Bibula 
sbib...@maine.rr.commailto:sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote:
In Hannaford (a major regional

Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp prices

2014-01-30 Thread Fleming, William
Back when I grew apples in North Central Washington they always said you 
couldn't grow good apples down south in the Columbia Basin so hardly anyone 
did. Then someone came up with idea of overhead cooling during the hottest 
days, the Gala and Honeycrisp planting boom started. Huge plantings in the 
Basin and their efficiency of scale flooded the market putting many growers in 
the traditional apple growing areas of Washington out of business.

Cooling addressed the problem caused by 100° plus days but did little for cool 
nighttime temperatures which I feel are essential for growing a good tasting 
apple. Apples from the Basin of all types can look beautiful but taste foul, 
sort of ruins the market for growers nationwide. Fortunately the current trend 
is removing apples and planting wine grapes. Also because of new food safety 
legislation surface canal and irrigation ditch water isn't allowed to get on 
the fruit, overhead cooling water must be treated or come from a well. I 
suspect that even more apples will have to come out due to this. Probably good 
for all of us to get inferior fruit off the market.

Here where I now live in western Montana at 3000 feet we can grow excellent 
Honeycrisp, it's almost like they were bred for the area. Night time 
temperatures are almost always in the 50°s no matter how hot the day.



Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of George Brinson
Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2014 6:19 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp prices

Same story here on the east coast of Canada  maybe it is the climate in 
which it  is grown. HoneyCrisp tastes horrible!!

George Brinson

From: David Doudmailto:david_d...@me.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 29, 2014 11:35 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion listmailto:apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp prices

 how did anyone find a Honeycrisp that doesn't taste good?

Unfortunately, it's not that hard - We were visiting our son in San Diego in 
October 2012 (no fruit here, might as well take a trip) and visited Whole 
Foods, actually caught an upper level produce employee and chatted - he really 
wanted to turn me onto HoneyCrisp, there was a big display of 4 ones - insipid 
- and not that good of texture either - On to Trader Joe's, big display of 
nasty green 2.25-2.75 HoneyCrisp, obviously off overcropped trees - wish I 
would have taken pictures, but I was on vacation...

The ones in the local stores recently have been respectable @ $2.49 to 
$2.99/pound

It's hard to grow good ones - twice the price but half the pack-out - a real 
temptation to lower standards -

HoneyCrisp has generated apple excitement like none other in the last 30 years 
and has reset the bar - it is the new standard by which other varieties are 
measured and the traditional varieties don't measure up - Jonagored may compete 
in its week, but there's no comparison a couple weeks later -

David



On Jan 29, 2014, at 8:05 PM, Shoemaker, William H wrote:


Now the question is, how did anyone find a Honeycrisp that doesn't taste good? 
Is it the variety? Is it how its grown? Is it postharvest handling? Is it all 
the above? In our markets around Chicago it is really difficult to find high 
quality apples of any variety from Washington. They look beautiful, but lack 
flavor. I think Washington growers produce great apples. They don't show up 
here. I've had excellent Honeycrisp from local orchards in northern Illinois. 
In southern IL, they aren't as good. We get Fuji from MI in our local Aldi that 
are cheap and outstanding to eat. I think local Red Delicious are just 
delicious. But then, everyone knows, Red Delicious is a terrible apple. Why do 
we have so much acreage of this apple?!!


Bill
William H. Shoemaker
Retired fruit and vegetable horticulturist
University of Illinois
wshoe...@illinois.edumailto:wshoe...@illinois.edu


The problem is, poorly grown HC are just not good tasting apples. They need a 
cold winter, heavy thinning to avoid over cropping, calcium sprays every 4-6 
days and careful handling. ///

On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 2:59 PM, Steven Bibula 
sbib...@maine.rr.commailto:sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote:
In Hannaford (a major regional supermarket) today, all apples were 99 cents per 
pound, except some smallish, mediocre-looking honeycrisp at $2.49 per pound.  
How long can an apple coast in the premium price range on little more than the 
name?

Steven Bibula
Plowshares Community Farm
236 Sebago Lake Road
Gorham ME 04038
207.239.0442tel:207.239.0442
www.plowsharesmaine.comhttp://www.plowsharesmaine.com


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Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

2013-11-25 Thread Fleming, William
Tree height in a high density orchard depends on your latitude, row width and 
orientation i.e. N-S or E-W.
While a short tree might be ideal if you want to go ladderless at our latitude 
here in Montana 12 foot tall trees oriented N-S with a 14' drive row take 
maximum advantage of the sun.
I've seen an online calculator for this but don't recall where. My bet is 
google knows though.
To stop or slow down trees from growing taller I just head back to a weaker 
side branch, hopefully one that has fruited, or you can bend down the central 
leader to 45° or less with string once it gets to the desired height.
I never cut the central leader till it reaches the desired height.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 10:06 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

Makes sense to me now.

I've read that Bud 118 doesn't need support.   A question I've always had is, 
Why is it important to not cut the leader?  Seems like an idea situation to 
me would be to plant high density with root stocks that are self supporting and 
cut the top out every year to two to control the height of the trees.  Another 
thought is that the dwarf trees are really large trees, in my mind - 10+ feet.  
Seems like a super dwarf that gets to about 7 feet would be idea, planted a 
foot apart - wild thoughts...

On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 7:46 PM, Steven Bibula 
sbib...@maine.rr.commailto:sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote:
Hugh,

What Art said, plus the idea that interstems should to provide a ultimately 
similar orchard result as with Tall Spindle or other high density plantings, 
with somewhat less cost per acre due to less support needed and fewer trees per 
acre; also, the hope is to achieve longer tree life than with straight dwarf 
rootstocks.

I have a few sloped and curving fields that don't lend themselves to 
post-and-wire, so I am looking for early bearing, high density alternatives.

Steven Bibula

From: 
apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net]
 On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 1:24 PM

To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

Steven,
Sorry for my ignorance, but why use interstems?

On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 5:55 AM, Steven Bibula 
sbib...@maine.rr.commailto:sbib...@maine.rr.com wrote:
I am sorry for not being clearer in my initial post.  My main question is about 
Honeycrisp on various interstems managed with renewal pruning.  That is, does 
anyone have experience with this.

Steven Bibula

From: 
apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net]
 On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2013 12:52 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] honeycrisp management

Rich,
I'm curious about your location and elevation.

On Thu, Nov 21, 2013 at 8:45 PM, Rich Everett 
reofar...@gmail.commailto:reofar...@gmail.com wrote:
I have a couple acres of  honey crisp on different root stock and I'd tell 
anyone that the tree is difficult to grow, susceptible to many diseases from 
powdery mildew to pith and much more.  The apple taste great fresh, we've 
juiced with the taste not very desirable for juice.  Again, the toughest apple 
tree for us to grow and we have 15 varieties.  Good luck

On Nov 21, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Jill Kelly 
kelly...@metrocast.netmailto:kelly...@metrocast.net wrote:

I've got Honeycrisp on M26 at 5X15 Steve.  The 5 looks pretty good but the 15 
probably could had been 13.  Your welcome to come down to have a look sometime.

Art Kelly
Kelly Orchards
Acton, Maine
On Nov 21, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Steven Bibula wrote:

I plan to trial Honeycrisp on B.9/B.118, B.9/MM.111 and G.11/MM.111.  I also 
plan to use renewal pruning, with no permanent limbs.  Considering Jon 
Clements' recommendation for Honeycrisp on B.9 at 2 feet apart in the row, any 
thoughts about spacing for these other combinations, or cautions?  My thinking: 
If Honeycrisp on B.9 means waiting to crop until the third leaf, maybe it is 
better to not rely heavily on Tall Spindle, but instead also go with fewer 
trees on interstems (cheaper per acre) that will presumably last longer, need 
less expensive support and still be trained to a compact, U-Pick friendly 
fruiting wall.

Steven Bibula
Plowshares Community Farm
236 Sebago Lake Road
Gorham ME 04038
207.239.0442tel:207.239.0442
www.plowsharesmaine.comhttp://www.plowsharesmaine.com/

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Re: [apple-crop] Vineland 1 rootstock

2013-11-20 Thread Fleming, William
I don't know any numbers but have read that a mature orchard on seedling roots 
spaced 28'x28' will way out produce a dwarf high density orchard.
It will probably cost you twice as much to pick with twice as many processors 
but the tonnage will be up there.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of dbals...@mnsi.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 20, 2013 2:28 PM
To: 'Apple-crop discussion list'
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Vineland 1 rootstock

Different subject ... does anyone know what the current world record for apple 
production /acre is . The last record I have ever heard quoted was a7 year old 
block of Granny smith apples from New Zealand around 130 metric tonne per 
hectare in the early 1990's.does anyone know where a person might source such 
info or r what the current record might be ?

Thanks
Doug

Doug and Leslie
519-738-4819

The Fruit Wagon - Quality Fruit and Flowers in Season
www.thefruitwagon.comhttp://www.thefruitwagon.com

[cid:image001.png@01CEE608.1FCF28C0][cid:image002.png@01CEE608.1FCF28C0]

From: 
apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
 [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 12:19 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Vineland 1 rootstock

I've read that V1 is resistant to fire blight.  See: 
http://www.plant.uoguelph.ca/treefruit/outreach/files/PerformanceandAvailabilityoftheVinelandAppleRootstocks-Dec2006.pdf

On Thu, Oct 31, 2013 at 8:20 AM, Deborah I. Breth 
d...@cornell.edumailto:d...@cornell.edu wrote:
Is V1 resistant or susceptible to fire blight?


Deborah I. Breth
Cornell Cooperative Extension - Lake Ontario Fruit Program
Team Leader and IPM Specialist in Tree Fruit and Berries
12690 Rt. 31
Albion, NY   14411

phone: 585.798.4265 x 36tel:585.798.4265%20x%2036
mobile:  585.747.6039tel:585.747.6039
fax:  585.798.5191tel:585.798.5191

email: d...@cornell.edumailto:d...@cornell.edu
LOF websitehttp://www.fruit.cornell.edu/lof

From: 
apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net]
 On Behalf Of Huffman, Leslie (OMAFRA)
Sent: Thursday, October 31, 2013 11:02 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list; Jon Clements

Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Vineland 1 rootstock

I agree with Jon, V1 definitely has more vigour.

Leslie

Leslie Huffman
519-738-1256tel:519-738-1256
leslie.huff...@ontario.camailto:519-738-1256leslie.huff...@ontario.ca

From: 
apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
 [mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Thomas
Sent: October-30-13 2:47 PM
To: Jon Clements; Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Vineland 1 rootstock

Thanks Jon,
I did order some V1 trees from Cameron yesterday and I'm glad you told me about 
the spacing, as I was heading for 4 feet.   I''ll plant 5x12 and give you a 
report as the next few seasons go by.
Hugh

On Wed, Oct 30, 2013 at 11:27 AM, Jon Clements 
jon.cleme...@umass.edumailto:jon.cleme...@umass.edu wrote:
Hugh, see this for a start:

http://www.extension.org/pages/60856/apple-rootstock-info:-v1#.UnFOtJRga9U

Several growers here in Massachusetts have planted Honeycrisp (and maybe some 
other varieties?) on V.1 in recent years. The trees have done very well, 
however, they are larger than B.9 and M.9. Planting 3-4 feet apart is running 
into some crowding issues. They have been precocious, but I would plant them 
5-6 ft. apart using a vertical axis type training. Trees I believe have come 
from Cameron Nursery.

Jon

On Sun, Oct 27, 2013 at 3:44 PM, Hugh Thomas 
hughthoma...@gmail.commailto:hughthoma...@gmail.com wrote:
In my search for a cold tolerant rootstock, I ran across Vineland 1. Any input 
on this rootstock from anyone?  B9 Honeycrisp trees are hard to find so I'm 
considering V1.

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--
Jon Clements
aka 'Mr Honeycrisp'
UMass Cold Spring Orchard
393 Sabin St.
Belchertown, MA  01007
413-478-7219tel:413-478-7219
umassfruit.comhttp://umassfruit.com

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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.comhttp://www.avg.com
Version: 2014.0.4158 / 

Re: [apple-crop] Residual pesticide activity

2013-08-05 Thread Fleming, William
I've also wondered about the negative effects of spraying sugar on fruit, seems 
like it wouldn't much different than honeydew caused by pear psylla or aphids 
causing sooty mold.
Read recently that some growers were having excellent results with a 5 lbs per 
100 gallons white sugar spray to repel birds on apples, grapes and blueberries!
Apparently  birds can't digest the sugar, it makes them sick and they don't 
come back. Seems like it might be a great research opportunity for someone.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Lane
Corvallis, MT 59828

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Glen Koehler
Sent: Monday, August 05, 2013 6:36 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Residual pesticide activity

Hi Art
See paragraph in last newsletter.  Bottom line is sugar should also 
increase efficacy of Assail and possibly Delegate against AM but nobody knows 
if there would be other problems created by spraying sugar on apples.  I find 
the slow start to AM catches perplexing.  Only speculation I have to explain it 
is that they suffered high mortality in winter.  But that might be wishful 
thinking.  Next few weeks will tell.
- Glen
On Sun, Aug 4, 2013 at 8:45 AM, Arthur Kelly 
kellyorcha...@gmail.commailto:kellyorcha...@gmail.com wrote:
There is a recommendation to add sugar when making an application of Assail for 
SWD on berries to stimulate feeding.  1-2 lbs per hundred gal.  What about for 
apples when using Assail or Delegate for instance?  My understanding is that 
when first emerged the flies feed.  FYI we trapped the first AM fly on 8/2 
here.  Only one on five traps.

Art Kelly
Kelly Orchards
Acton, ME

On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 1:33 PM, David Kollas 
kol...@sbcglobal.netmailto:kol...@sbcglobal.net wrote:


Thank you, Art.  It is always better to know whether the most-informed have the 
answers; or whether, instead, they are not sure either.

The uncertainty that Reissig expressed in his paper of 2003 apparently 
continues now ten years later. In that paper he indicated the need for
additional research to assess practical aspects of replacing organophosphates 
with newer chemistries in commercial orchards.

A practical aspect of using Calyso or Assail in leu of Imidan that is separate 
from their mode of action on Apple Maggot, is the
question of how to incorporate them into a label-compliant 
resistance-management program that includes control of many pests in addition
to Apple Maggot.

David



On Aug 2, 2013, at 11:53 AM, Arthur M. Agnello wrote:


Hi David,

Harvey Reissig did a study on the efficacy of some of the newer products 
against apple maggot, and published it some years ago:

Reissig, W. Harvey.  2003.  Field and Laboratory Tests of New Insecticides 
Against the Apple Maggot, Rhagoletis pomonella (Walsh) (Diptera: Tephritidae).  
 Journal of Economic Entomology 96 (5): 1463-1472 - I will send you a pdf of it 
in a separate email.

However, his general findings were that there are no new insecticides that are 
as effective in controlling AM as the organophosphates, particularly in high 
pressure situations.  It is also true that most of the new materials are not 
as directly toxic to the flies as the OPs, and the efficacy of many these new 
materials appears to be due to their ability to prevent flies from ovipositing 
as long as they are in contact with their residues.  We really don't know the 
mechanism of this mode of action, but in many laboratory bioassays the flies 
will not lay eggs on treated apples, although they remain alive.  So far, we 
would say that in most normal US orchards, which are presumed to be initially 
free from internal AM infestations and are not near abandoned orchards and 
other large sources of unsprayed host trees, we have not seen control failures 
or even increased damage in orchards that are not treated with 
organophosphates, although AM catches in monitoring traps placed along the 
edges of these orchards appears to be higher than when they were sprayed with 
organophosphates.

As far as efficacy, Calypso is definitely the most effective of the new 
insecticides, followed by Assail.  Delegate and Altacor also have some 
activity, but would probably not provide control in orchards with internal 
infestations or those that are near heavy unsprayed sources of infestations.

Art

--
Arthur M. Agnello
Professor and Extension Tree Fruit Entomologist
Dept. of Entomology
a...@cornell.edumailto:a...@cornell.edu
N.Y.S. Agric. Expt. Sta.Tel: 
315-787-2341tel:315-787-2341
630 W. North St.   Fax: 
315-787-2326tel:315-787-2326
Geneva, NY  14456-1371
http://web.entomology.cornell.edu/agnello/links.html
Scaffolds Fruit Journal online:
http://www.scaffolds.entomology.cornell.edu/index.html

From: Dave Kollas kol...@sbcglobal.netmailto:kol...@sbcglobal.net

[apple-crop] Hort Research Position in the Beautiful Bitterroot Valley

2013-07-23 Thread Fleming, William
Best location in Montana with much public support.
Details http://www.montana.edu/jobs/faculty/13-372



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Re: [apple-crop] pressure washers

2012-03-06 Thread Fleming, William
A $150 washer from Home Depot works for me. I use hot water from a building 
that has a water heater.
Hot water makes a lot of difference.
But now if you're using fish oil everything changes, that stuff is harder to 
get off than most paint.
What I finally figured out to do with fish oil was to paint the entire sprayer 
and tractors with spray oil before fishing season started.
After the season was over the spray oil washed off easily with the pressure 
washer and soap taking the fish oil with it.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana
406-961-3025
Cell- 406-529-2409



-Original Message-
From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of David Kollas
Sent: Tuesday, March 06, 2012 10:27 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: [apple-crop] pressure washers







  Northern Tool and Equipment lists pressure washers from under $200

to several thousand dollars.

Would anyone care to advise on needed pressure, gallons per minute,

and hot versus cold water, or other

considerations in choosing a system to clean exterior surfaces on air-

blast sprayer and tractor after each

day's orchard spraying?



I am looking for an easier/better way to replace garden hose and brush.



David Kollas

Kollas Orchard

Tolland, CT





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Re: [apple-crop] electronic deer shield pro deer control

2012-02-27 Thread Fleming, William
We used a device from the same company with the same mode of action to repel 
birds.
Work great for a couple of days till they got used to it then it was worthless.
Luckily it had a 30 day money back guarantee, I sent it back.
Think the deer repeller has a similar warranty; maybe you should go for it and 
tell us how it works.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Jerry (skip) 
Sietsema III
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2012 5:40 AM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: [apple-crop] electronic deer shield pro deer control

Does anyone have any opinions on these units? Do they work and are they 
annoying to neighbors?skip sietsema
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Re: [apple-crop] Hedging tall spindle trees

2012-02-23 Thread Fleming, William
I made my own hedger/topper by mounting a $250 used M-F sickle bar mower on a 
front end loader. Powered it with a hydraulic motor.
Mower hydraulically pivoted from below horizontal to 90°. Could hedge and top 
up to 12 feet.
Worked excellent as long as the tractor could fit down the driverow!

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of maurice tougas
Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2012 3:38 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Hedging tall spindle trees

Nick,

Yes, we've done some hedging as a trial. People are hedging at differing times, 
in NY hedging is done by a couple of growers in August when branches turn or 
drop under the weight of growing fruit.

We're trying several approaches as described a year ago or so here on Apple 
crop and in French publication Le Mur Fruitier.

You can do a site search of apple crop from the Virtual Orchard website to find 
the discussion a year ago.

Best of luck,

Mo Tougas


2012/2/22 Nick Lucking 
n...@cannonvalleyorchard.commailto:n...@cannonvalleyorchard.com
Here's the link to the video that Mo Tougas took.  Thanks Mo!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8SNxztQr-80feature=related

Nick Lucking
Cannon Valley Orchard

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--
Maurice Tougas
Tougas Family Farm
Northborough,MA 01532
508-450-0844
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Re: [apple-crop] agricultural drones

2012-02-20 Thread Fleming, William
Drone helicopters sure would come in handy for cherry growers out west who use 
them to dry fruit to prevent rain cracking.
Often there aren't enough copters to go around for what must be a boring job 
for pilots.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana
406-961-3025
Cell- 406-529-2409



-Original Message-
From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Vincent Philion
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2012 1:36 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] agricultural drones



Hello Dave! Good one!



Now, if the use of sprinklers for pesticide application is a Pipe Dream, is 
this one like building castles in the air ?

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Re: [apple-crop] roots eaten by gopher, any way to salvage?

2012-01-19 Thread Fleming, William
Rye,
You're going to have to lose all that growth. The tree may have enough roots to 
survive but definitely not enough to support six feet of growth.
Cutting the tree all the way back to about knee high may let it survive but 
you'd probably be better off to just start over with a new tree.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Rye
Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2012 12:37 PM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: [apple-crop] roots eaten by gopher, any way to salvage?

A gopher ate every last finger of root.  All that's left is wood below the 
graft union.  Any chance to get roots to regenerate?  It was recent and the 
tree wood is still wet inside.  I planted the bareroot last spring, headed it 
to 18 and it grew to 6ft.  Shame to loose all that growth.

Thanks,
Rye Hefley
Future Farmers Marketter
So. Cal.
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Re: [apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer

2011-12-27 Thread Fleming, William
Mark,
When the time comes to control weeds I use the pre-emergent soybean herbicide 
Valor at the non-crop area rate every three years.
Works excellent for me but I'm in an arid climate although sprinklers do hit 
the fence during the growing season.
Valor should be easy to come by for you in Kansas.
Other than Valor just a backpack spot spray of Roundup once a year keeps it 
clean.

I've had a tool similar to the ClampTite since the '60s called a BandTite. Same 
idea except it uses a band similar to a hose clamp rather than wire.

Have a great new year, Bill

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Mark Angermayer
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2011 8:46 PM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer

Dave, thanks so much the feedback.  It gives a more complete picture.  The 
university folks on this forum really provide thoughtful responses.  You guys 
don't get near the credit you deserve.

The overall consensus seems to favor an 8' woven wire fence.  Per all the 
advice on this forum, I think I may go with an 8' fence on the new section.  
However, I'm still going to try electric fence.  With the fence that's already 
there,  it's relatively little expense to add height to it and electrify it.

I don't think I have quite as much deer pressure as a lot of folks have 
mentioned here.  The adjacent field is leased for deer hunting and hunters 
blast away during deer season.  There is also an orchard 3 miles away which 
doesn't have any deer fence whatever.

For me, the advantage of an electric fence is I think I can keep the costs 
significantly less than would be expected vs. a full fledged woven wire fence.  
Because most of the fence would simply require extending the height, most of 
the cost is extending the T-posts, the charger, and the wire/string.  I already 
have a bunch of wooden posts I bought cheap a couple years ago for the new 
fence.

There isn't a problem with trees overhanging the property.  The area I'm 
fencing is bordered on two sides by county roads and one one side by a neighbor 
who keeps the fence row  fairly clean.  The side with the new fence has no 
trees.

Spraying fence rows is something to consider.  I figure I'll probably have to 
spray 3X/season on the new fencing, and once/season on the existing fence, 
since the weeds have to grow taller than the woven wire (4'+) to reach the 
electric fence on top of the existing fence.

I'm thinking I won't have as much erosion problems you mentioned, due to less 
overall spraying and flatter ground.

All in all, if I had to build all the fence from scratch I'd probably go with 
an 8' woven wire, but since I've already got two thirds of the fence in place, 
I'm going to try to go the cheaper route.

Bill,

Thanks for the idea on the pvc.  I will check into it, and I hear you on the 
zip ties.  Based upon all the feedback, I may try to extend the T-posts more 
than couple feet.  If I could extend them 3', that would give me 7 to 71/2' 
height on the existing fence.  That said, I'm not sure I could trust zip ties 
for that much extension.  I had planned to go with clamp tite wire clamps 
which may better handle a 3' extension.

As an FYI, I've had very good success with the clamp tite tool.  In my 
opinion no farmer should be without one.

Once you buy the tool, the clamps are very inexpensive and last forever.  So 
far, I've used their SS wire (which is more expensive) but I think thin 
galvanized electric fence wire would work just as well, and would make the 
clamps essentially free.

http://www.clamptitetools.com/

Thanks for all your advice, you've been a big help, helping me think this 
through.

Many thanks to all who have posted their experience with deer fencing.

May you all enjoy your family/loved ones this time of year.

Mark


- Original Message -
From: Dave Rosenbergermailto:da...@cornell.edu
To: Mark Angermayermailto:hangerma...@isp.com
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer

Hi, Mark   --
The advantage of putting in the new section of fence at 8 ft is that 
you won't have to redo that section when you switch the rest of the fence to 8 
ft :).
As Mike Fargione indicated earlier, many growers in the Hudson Valley 
of New York started out with either slanted or vertical electrified deer fences 
30 years ago. However, as our white-tail deer pressures increased, virtually 
everyone has switched to 8-ft woven wire.  At our research station, we did this 
gradually because we could not afford to do it all at once.  We put in the 
first 8-ft woven wire back around 1994 and then gradually replaced additional 
sections of the old slanted 7-wire electrical fence (originally installed about 
1981) as 

Re: [apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer

2011-12-27 Thread Fleming, William
It all depends on the weeds you're dealing with but I've found Chateau 
pre-emergent to work very well for most annuals with just one application in 
the spring. Use glyphosate for perennials
Chateau is even safe and registered for first year trees.
It seems like I may have read recently that Valor was being registered for 
fruit trees. It would certainly work well if so, just don't use it at same rate 
as under the fence!!!

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Mark Angermayer
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 11:08 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer

Thanks Bill,

Something with some residual would be helpful vs. just Roundup.  Perhaps Valor 
with a little spot spray of glyphosate would take care of the weeds for a 
season here.

Do you have a recommendation for a one spray season long herbicide under 
fruit trees?  The standard protocol for peaches here is glyphos early, then 
gramoxone later in the season when there is a danger of translocating glyphos 
to the tree roots.

Mark
- Original Message -
From: Fleming, Williammailto:w...@montana.edu
To: Apple-crop discussion listmailto:apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2011 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer

Mark,
When the time comes to control weeds I use the pre-emergent soybean herbicide 
Valor at the non-crop area rate every three years.
Works excellent for me but I'm in an arid climate although sprinklers do hit 
the fence during the growing season.
Valor should be easy to come by for you in Kansas.
Other than Valor just a backpack spot spray of Roundup once a year keeps it 
clean.

I've had a tool similar to the ClampTite since the '60s called a BandTite. Same 
idea except it uses a band similar to a hose clamp rather than wire.

Have a great new year, Bill

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Mark Angermayer
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2011 8:46 PM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer

Dave, thanks so much the feedback.  It gives a more complete picture.  The 
university folks on this forum really provide thoughtful responses.  You guys 
don't get near the credit you deserve.

The overall consensus seems to favor an 8' woven wire fence.  Per all the 
advice on this forum, I think I may go with an 8' fence on the new section.  
However, I'm still going to try electric fence.  With the fence that's already 
there,  it's relatively little expense to add height to it and electrify it.

I don't think I have quite as much deer pressure as a lot of folks have 
mentioned here.  The adjacent field is leased for deer hunting and hunters 
blast away during deer season.  There is also an orchard 3 miles away which 
doesn't have any deer fence whatever.

For me, the advantage of an electric fence is I think I can keep the costs 
significantly less than would be expected vs. a full fledged woven wire fence.  
Because most of the fence would simply require extending the height, most of 
the cost is extending the T-posts, the charger, and the wire/string.  I already 
have a bunch of wooden posts I bought cheap a couple years ago for the new 
fence.

There isn't a problem with trees overhanging the property.  The area I'm 
fencing is bordered on two sides by county roads and one one side by a neighbor 
who keeps the fence row  fairly clean.  The side with the new fence has no 
trees.

Spraying fence rows is something to consider.  I figure I'll probably have to 
spray 3X/season on the new fencing, and once/season on the existing fence, 
since the weeds have to grow taller than the woven wire (4'+) to reach the 
electric fence on top of the existing fence.

I'm thinking I won't have as much erosion problems you mentioned, due to less 
overall spraying and flatter ground.

All in all, if I had to build all the fence from scratch I'd probably go with 
an 8' woven wire, but since I've already got two thirds of the fence in place, 
I'm going to try to go the cheaper route.

Bill,

Thanks for the idea on the pvc.  I will check into it, and I hear you on the 
zip ties.  Based upon all the feedback, I may try to extend the T-posts more 
than couple feet.  If I could extend them 3', that would give me 7 to 71/2' 
height on the existing fence.  That said, I'm not sure I could trust zip ties 
for that much extension.  I had planned to go with clamp tite wire clamps 
which may better handle a 3' extension.

As an FYI, I've had very good success with the clamp tite tool.  In my 
opinion no farmer 

[apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer

2011-12-22 Thread Fleming, William
I use high tensile wire, the same type used for trellises. Eight wires 10-12 
apart, 50' between 4 diameter posts with very well anchored corners.

 Works excellent, the deer have no problem seeing the wire and it only takes 
getting shocked once to teach them a lifetime lesson.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, Montana



-Original Message-
From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Mark Angermayer
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 9:43 AM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: [apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer



I'd like to put up some electric fence to discourage deer and have some

questions on the type of wire.



My understanding is the poor visibility of standard electric fence wire is

not optimum for deer.



Electric fence tape is more visible but catches a good bit of wind, and we

get a lot of that here.



I've spoken with a wildlife expert and he indicated electric rope is now

being recommended for deer.



However, there are a ton of options for electric rope.  I'd like something

that has minimal sag and a long life.



Something like this 1/8 rope would seem to fit the bill

http://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?pgguid=26db629c-952b-40e8-88be-7f2269d659e6

but I don't know if it would have high enough visibility for deer.  They

make a 1/4 rope that would be more visible.  Anyone using any of these

electric rope products?



Mark Angermayer

Tubby Fruits

Bucyrus KS





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Re: [apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer

2011-12-22 Thread Fleming, William
Mark,
12.5 gauge is what we used. 4400 foot rolls were about $100 last winter.
I use what's called a Daisy tensioner to pull the wire tight; simple, easy and 
cheaper than other tensioners.
No noticeable sag in 50 feet.
Every other wire is hot and insulated from the post with a short section of 
hose held in place with a barbed fencing staple.
The alternating ground wires are just stapled with no insulator.
Porcelain insulators are used at the corners. Corner posts are three feet deep 
in concrete with 45° angle braces.
All materials including an $600 fence charger were a little over $3000 to do 30 
acres.
Don't skimp on the charger, keeping wild animals out is a lot different than 
keeping domestic ones in.

As said deer can go though the fence but only will try it once which can make 
it a problem getting them out. Nothing a good dog or ATV can't deal with though.
For that reason the wire and staples are on the inside of the fence so they 
don't get pulled out by fleeing deer.
I also cruise the fence right after fawning season with a jar of peanut butter 
smearing a glob on the chest height hot wire inbetween each post. The new ones 
are very attracted to the peanut butter but one lick will be the last time they 
mess with the fence.

I've been very satisfied with the results. Since we are performing Ag research 
deer damage can't be tolerated. Before installing the perimeter fence we were 
electric fencing just the research plot areas, what a pain having several 
different string type fences.
We had to block off a main mule deer migration route and it's worked excellent 
though I sort of feel sorry for the neighbors who had the traffic redirected 
towards their properties. They haven't really complained per se but they have 
definitely noticed.
Before the fence I could count herds of over 100 at a time on the research 
station grounds. Now I'm lucky to have a handful all year that mostly come in 
though our main gate which must remain open all day.


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Mark Angermayer
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 2:04 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer

Bill,

I like the idea of 50' wooden post spacing.  Do you know what gauge the wire 
is?  12.5 ga is most common for electric fence but that seems a little small - 
little bigger than 1/16.

Mike,

I agree a regular 8' deer fence would be best.  As you alluded, the expense is 
the big disadvantage.  While I'm only fencing 10 acres, the fence you describe 
(although bullet-proof) would be more than I want to spend right now.

Mark Angermayer
- Original Message -
From: Mike J Fargionemailto:mj...@cornell.edu
To: Apple-crop discussion listmailto:apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 12:40 PM
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer

We have had some success with electric fencing in NY but there are conditions 
where it does not work and we strongly advise growers to put up 8' tall 
high-tensile, woven wire (non-electric) deer fence if they can afford it.

I have seen electric fences fail (frequently) due to poor design ( deer squeeze 
under or through the wires if gaps are more than 8-10 apart), and during 
periods with deep snow cover or when soils are very dry.  In these latter 
cases, there is inadequate electron flow to give the deer a good shock (i.e. 
poor grounding).  You can switch to alternating hot and ground wires on the 
fence, but the deer has to then touch 2 adjacent wires to get shocked, and if a 
deer's head is already through the fence they will keep going - no backing out!

Slant electric designs or vertical electric fences with outrigger wires are 
have worked more effectively than horizontal designs but require more space and 
make weed control (necessary to keep voltage up) more complicated.

Well-designed electric fences are probably adequate where deer pressure is low 
to moderate.  If you have high pressure, build a tall woven non-electric fence 
and sleep better at night!
Mike

Michael J. Fargione
Extension Educator, Cornell Cooperative Extension of Ulster County
Hudson Valley Regional Fruit Program
Hudson Valley Lab, 3357 Route 9W, P.O. Box 727, Highland, NY 12528-0727
telephone: 845-691-7117, cell: 845-399-2028, fax: 845-691-2719, email: 
mj...@cornell.edumailto:mj...@cornell.edu
visit us at http://hudsonvf.cce.cornell.eduhttp://hudsonvf.cce.cornell.edu/


From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Fleming, William
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 12:05 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: [apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer


I use high tensile wire, the same type used for trellises. Eight wires 10-12 
apart, 50' between

Re: [apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer

2011-12-22 Thread Fleming, William
 electric designs or vertical electric fences with outrigger wires are 
have worked more effectively than horizontal designs but require more space and 
make weed control (necessary to keep voltage up) more complicated.

Well-designed electric fences are probably adequate where deer pressure is low 
to moderate.  If you have high pressure, build a tall woven non-electric fence 
and sleep better at night!
Mike

Michael J. Fargione
Extension Educator, Cornell Cooperative Extension of Ulster County
Hudson Valley Regional Fruit Program
Hudson Valley Lab, 3357 Route 9W, P.O. Box 727, Highland, NY 12528-0727
telephone: 845-691-7117, cell: 845-399-2028, fax: 845-691-2719, email: 
mj...@cornell.edumailto:mj...@cornell.edu
visit us at http://hudsonvf.cce.cornell.eduhttp://hudsonvf.cce.cornell.edu/


From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Fleming, William
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 12:05 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: [apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer


I use high tensile wire, the same type used for trellises. Eight wires 10-12 
apart, 50' between 4 diameter posts with very well anchored corners.

 Works excellent, the deer have no problem seeing the wire and it only takes 
getting shocked once to teach them a lifetime lesson.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, Montana



-Original Message-
From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Mark Angermayer
Sent: Thursday, December 22, 2011 9:43 AM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: [apple-crop] Best electric fencing materials - Deer



I'd like to put up some electric fence to discourage deer and have some

questions on the type of wire.



My understanding is the poor visibility of standard electric fence wire is

not optimum for deer.



Electric fence tape is more visible but catches a good bit of wind, and we

get a lot of that here.



I've spoken with a wildlife expert and he indicated electric rope is now

being recommended for deer.



However, there are a ton of options for electric rope.  I'd like something

that has minimal sag and a long life.



Something like this 1/8 rope would seem to fit the bill

http://www.valleyvet.com/ct_detail.html?pgguid=26db629c-952b-40e8-88be-7f2269d659e6

but I don't know if it would have high enough visibility for deer.  They

make a 1/4 rope that would be more visible.  Anyone using any of these

electric rope products?



Mark Angermayer

Tubby Fruits

Bucyrus KS





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Re: [apple-crop] Best time to start apple pruning after harvest

2011-12-01 Thread Fleming, William
I always start pruning after leafs fall mainly because the branches fall to the 
ground more easily. No leafs allow a more accurate cut and avoid cutting 
trellis wires also. Have always started pruning as early as possible to utilize 
a year round workforce. I always heard but have never seen any documentation 
that it's not a good idea to make big cuts close to a central leader if sub 
zero F weather is anticipated. Have always saved the youngest trees for last 
when the coldest part of winter has passed.
It seems like anymore pruning has become almost a year round activity. Some 
years we haven't finished winter pruning until long after bloom without any 
apparent ill effects but the workers hate it.
They call it cutting bees.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Jose Manuel Pereira 
Cardoso
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2011 4:56 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: [apple-crop] Best time to start apple prunning after harvest

Hi don't know the best time to start prunning appIe trees, and if is cientific 
consistent that i   suggest that pruning the apple tree should be always start 
when the is 100% dormant, because if not dormant the plant is mobilizing the 
reservesI don´t know if is any inconvenient to carry out pruning just afterthe 
leaves fall because it coincides with the maximum translocation of reserves 
(given the scarcity of labor, which has many hectares has already started to 
prune pruning). In the latter case when you start pruning early on the one hand 
we are to reduce the reserves in buds and in some ways to help the plant to 
respond with vegetative buds and increase alternance, and we are exposing the 
plant to external agents that can cause fungal infections and by bacteria. When 
you start pruning early apple wood still not well hard it needstimely, and 
then gain more strength. As for which variety to get there. Can still be 
considered that the parcels located in areas of higher risk andlower the 
occurrence of frost can be made as close to the bud ...This year in September 
and October were too hot, and this heatkept the vegetation greener longer, 
sometimes causing a delay inentry into dormancy of apple trees that can be 
advanced with the application of copper, to force the plant to go 
dormant.Greetings
--

JMP CARDOSO
SOMA MAÇÃS MAIShttp://www.somafrutas.com/intro/intro.html

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Re: [apple-crop] Field day in Québec on July 14th.

2011-06-16 Thread Fleming, William
Rye,
The way our irrigation system is set up is with 3/4 poly hose attached to the 
wire at 5'.
A micro sprinkler that's designed to work upside down hangs from a 1/4 poly 
line so the sprinkler is about 16-20 inches off the ground. There is a 
sprinkler between every other tree.
If needed for frost protection or pesticide injection there is a wire hook at 
the sprinkler that is used to hang the sprinkler from the top wire to produce 
an overhead system.
Works excellent and avoids investing in two systems. Another advantage is no 
underground or tree row lines to get hit by cultivation or mowing.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Rye
Sent: Wednesday, June 15, 2011 10:35 AM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Field day in Québec on July 14th.

Hi Vincent,

Thank you for your post on your sprinkler system and for offering to preview 
your system via email.  I am quite interested but unfortunately would not be 
able to justify a trip to Quebec.

I have a small new orchard with trees in first and second leaf.  I am able to 
cover the whole thing with two fillings of a backpack sprayer.  But, dreading 
the years to come with full canopy and don't see myself justifying a tractor 
and sprayer any more than a trip to Quebec.

So a fixed sprinkler delivery system seems like the answer to a prayer for all 
sorts of reasons:  affordability (compared to a tractor/sprayer), automation 
(set it and forget it, much much less effort), timing (night time when the wind 
is down without lights and without loss of sleep).  I have already been 
considering installing an overhead system for frost insurance.

Questions:

1) how do you mix and deliver?  Do you use a large pressurized tank containing 
the fully diluted solution?  Or do you draw concentrate from a tank by 
venturi/siphon (sorry I don't know what you call it, similar in concept to 
garden sprayers that you attach to the garden hose but on a larger scale)?  Or 
similar to liquid fertilizer system that mix into the irrigation?  Gravity?
2) how much of your system is developed from readily available parts and how 
much specialized items?
3) I envisioned micro sprinklers for the frost protection, would that work for 
pesticides without clogging issues? Or do you use rainbird type?
4) On a 5 wire trellis (1st wire 18 inches from the ground and the remaining 
wires separated by 22 inches) would you recommend installing the system on all 
wiresl?  Or maybe just the top 4 wires?

Again, Thank you Vincent, for replacing a dread with hope.

Rye Hefley
Future Farmers Marketer
So. Cal.
---
Vincent Philion
Mon, 13 Jun 2011 18:04:08 -0700

Hello fellow Apple-Crop enthusiasts,

No, we don't have Bastille day up here, but we are hosting a field day on
July 14th. Many things on display, including our new fixed sprinkler system for
pesticide applications. I understand the language barrier might be a problem,
but I'm sure many bilingual growers will be present and happy to translate
things in an informal way.

All the details can be found at:

http://www.agrireseau.qc.ca/references/8/Gerald/InvitatioPO2011vergerIRDA.pdf

Don't hesitate to forward this to your colleagues. The event is free of charge
and includes lunch. However, you must confirm your presence ahead of time to
get free food!

Hope to see some of you,

à bientôt!

Vincent Philion, agr., M.Sc.
Phytopathologiste
Laboratoire de production fruitière intégrée
Institut de recherche et de développement en agroenvironnement
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Re: [apple-crop] Is it necessarily Powdery Mildew?

2011-04-20 Thread Fleming, William
Besides the powder PM also gives a sort of reddish cast to the leaves.
You might want to consider alternating at least three different fungicides with 
different modes of action into your program. PM will develop resistance to just 
one form of control in one year.
I'm fairly certain just using a couple more modes of action will clean it up 
fast.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Rye
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2011 9:51 AM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: [apple-crop] Is it necessarily Powdery Mildew?

Hi again folks,

Sorry for all the separate email, just thought it would help to keep topics 
organized.

I have been spraying weekly with Serenade ASO for Powdery Mildew.  On all trees 
including those planted last year (second leaf?) and this years planting (first 
leaf?) I see white fuzz on new shoots and the twigs of leaves.  The fuzz seems 
thicker on the second leaf trees than on the first leaf trees.  All leaves 
themselves are coming in pristine and older wood is clean.  The white fuzz does 
rub off if I rub briskly.  I call it fuzz because it seems to be slender and 
erect on a barely visible scale.  As opposed to the pastiness I saw in the 
Powdery Mildew on the dormant shoots in late winter.

I need to continue spraying either way since new leaves are still popping, but 
I'm curious:  Is that white fuzz still Powdery Mildew?  Or is that something 
that naturally appears on young shoots?  I'm tending to think PM, but not 100% 
sure.

Thanks,
Rye Hefley
Future Farmers Marketer
So. Cal.


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Re: [apple-crop] definitions question: first, second, third cover

2011-04-11 Thread Fleming, William
I agree with Peter that it's an old term but always took it to mean codling 
moth sprays, which back in the old days were hard insecticides that killed 
everything. In Washington most years three were needed, occasionally four.
The term covered is also used to numerate the number of days your cover spray 
application was good for.
Could be that one term was the origin of the other.
Doesn't seem like the term should apply much anymore since some of the newer 
insecticides need to be applied weekly.
Some growers would be applying eight to ten cover sprays nowdays.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Peter J. Jentsch
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 2:14 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] definitions question: first, second, third cover

Greetings Rye,

I believe this term is a carry over from a time when pest management 
applications would 'cover' the commodity in a blanket of spray following the 
critical petal fall application. This PF event typically occurs at roughly 80% 
of the petals falling from a variety such as Mcintosh in apple. At this point 
in time the flowers loose their attractiveness to bees allowing for insecticide 
pest management to occur.

In New York's Hudson Valley, this application of insecticide will control 
European apple sawfly, plum curculio, the overwintering stage of obliquebanded 
leafroller, tarnish plant bug, rosy apple aphid, and others, depending on the 
insecticide used.

Typically insecticide applications follow a 10 to 14 day interval called cover 
sprays or covers for short, depending of course on insecticide longevity and 
the weather (OP's longer, Bt's shorter). The residual of the previous 
application carrying over for this interval based on its residual to withstand 
weathering or hydrolysis, its U.V. stability and so on.

These applications then target the same insect (PC for the 1st and possibly 2nd 
cover), or a different insect species or complex of insects (such as codling 
moth at 2nd, SJS at 3rd cover; summer generation of OBLR at 4th cover; apple 
maggot  SJS at 5th -7th cover) at different periods relative to their timing 
after petal fall. All of which depends on pest management strategies, weather, 
population density to name but a few of the variables that increase or 
decreasing the timing interval.

Regards,

Peter

Hello all,

I'm looking over pesticide information and I see a lot of references to first 
cover, second cover and third cover and also references to first cover spray, 
second cover spray and third cover spray.  All references seem to expect the 
reader to know what that is.  Searching the web I found one reference that said 
second cover is 4-6 weeks after petal fall.  Another reference seemed to refer 
to the number of wet days to get to second cover and that didn't make any sense 
to me at all.

I guess I'm really unclear on what cover means in this context.  What does 
the term refer to?  What is being covered at these stages and/or what is doing 
the covering?  Or what observation do you make and say ah!  we are reached 
second cover today!  (same question for first and third.)

Also, what is the relationship between second cover and second cover spray? 
(same question for first and third)  I think I would understand once I 
understand what second cover is, but my general confusion on the topic leaves 
me with little confidence in that.

I have found references for definitions of some stages such as green tip, 
pre-pink, pink.  But these cover stages elude me.

Thanks for sharing your expertise!

Rye Hefley
Future Farmers Marketer
So. Cal.



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--
Peter J. Jentsch
Senior Extension Associate
Department of Entomology
Cornell University's Hudson Valley Lab
3357 Rt. 9W; PO box 727
Highland, NY 12528
email: p...@cornell.edu
Phone 845-691-7151
Mobile: 845-417-7465
http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/hudson/faculty.php
http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/ent/faculty/jentsch/
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Re: [apple-crop] Two trees with bud union under dirt

2011-03-31 Thread Fleming, William
My experience is the burl (ball) is the rootstock.
I wouldn't worry about it rooting.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Rye
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2011 1:48 PM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Two trees with bud union under dirt


I don't have a whole lot of choice, I promised my wife I would only use the 
space while she wasn't using it.  She's going to replant soon since it is 
Spring.  Also, the trees already started out poking out of the cage a bit, a 
year's growth will exceed the size of the cage.

When I moved those trees originally, I considered them lost.  So if any survive 
the move back to the orchard, that's a gain.  I have some vitamin-B hopefully 
that will reduce the shock.

So since the ball has roots on the underside, can I still consider them size 
controlled by the rootstock?  Everything I have read says don't let the scion 
root.  Reason: you'll lose the size controlling nature of the rootstock the 
scion has not rooted.  Also read, after settling, mound the dirt up to just 
under the ball i.e. keep the ball out of the dirt.  But no reason why is 
given that I have found, could be merely a buffer zone between the dirt and 
scion.  What is the reason to keep the ball out of the dirt?  What is the 
implication of roots coming from the ball (underside)?  Can I just clip them 
like any rootsucker?  If I've lost the size controlling nature of the rootstock 
I don't want those two trees on the trellis.  If I still have the size 
controlling nature of the rootstock, I don't want to plant them on their own 
and have to stake them,  I would rather train them back on the trellis.

Thanks for your reading.

Rye Hefley
Future Farmers Marketer
So. Cal.


Re: [apple-crop] Two trees with bud union under dirt

Tommy and Sandy
Wed, 30 Mar 2011 20:35:23 -0700

Dear sir,
It has been my bad experience to move any trees that already have leaves
extended.  They need to be dormant to move them without much shock.
Tommy Bruguiere
Dickie Bros. Orchard
  - Original Message -
  From: Rye
  To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
  Sent: Wednesday, March 30, 2011 4:38 PM
  Subject: [apple-crop] Two trees with bud union under dirt


  I have two trees (planted last year) where the bud union was under dirt.  The
underside of the ball has roots, the scion itself does not.  Are there any
implications?

  I had moved some trees into my wife's caged raised bed garden last fall
because they were dying due to gophers eating too much root.  I didn't pay
enough attention to them over the winter and two settled low where the ball and
some scion were buried.

  Most of the trees, including those two, recovered and are starting to sprout
healthy leaves.  I am soon going to transplant them back into the orchard.
With roots on the underside of the ball are there any concerns about losing the
size controlling nature of the rootstock?  Again, the scions did not root.  The
answer to that question will dictate whether I put those two back on the
trellis or free standing in the periphery.
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Re: [apple-crop] Manually dropping fruit from young trees

2011-03-14 Thread Fleming, William
A lime-sulfur/fish oil spray just after full bloom is a common organic 
alternative to hand thinning that works well. It works well enough that many 
conventional growers use it also. I suppose if a person wanted to burn all 
flowers off a tree they would need two of these caustic sprays just before and 
after full bloom.
There used to be an excellent conventional flower thinner that lost 
registration many years ago, think it was called Eligtal. I haven't kept up 
with any replacements for it.

Bill Fleming

Montana State University

Western Ag Research Center

580 Quast Ln

Corvallis, Montana


-Original Message-
From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Bill Shoemaker
Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2011 6:31 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Manually dropping fruit from young trees

Rye

Its common for many commercial growers to do just that. Rather than hand 
thinning though, they use chemical thinners, such as NAA and Sevin. Depending 
on weather conditions, rates and bloom load, it will take out a percentage of 
the flowers.

Bill

 Original message 
Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2011 20:29:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Rye ducn...@aol.com  
Subject: [apple-crop] Manually dropping fruit from young trees  
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net

   Why is it customary to allow fruit to form and then
   drop it when it is small, rather than removing
   flowers so the tree doesn't waste energy forming
   any fruit at all?  Curious if tree growth can be
   increased without harmful effects by removing
   flowers before they form fruit.

   Thanks,
   Rye Hefley
   Future Farmers Marketer
   So. Cal.

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St Charles Horticulture Research Center
535 Randall Road  St Charles, IL  60174
630-584-7254; FAX-584-4610
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Re: [apple-crop] Powdery Mildew already: Spray timing question

2011-03-14 Thread Fleming, William
Rye, it sounds like you might want to download and save this excellent resource
http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb0419/eb0419.pdf


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Rye
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2011 9:01 AM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: [apple-crop] Powdery Mildew already: Spray timing question

Hi folks,

On the apple trees I planted last year, I noticed the tell-tale white coating 
mostly on last season's newer shoots.  So I looked it up and low and behold 
they have powdery mildew.  The coating is not as thick as the worst picture I 
saw on the web, but the coverage area is a lot, i.e. it is worse than just 
splotchy.

Of course I aim to eradicate the problem on those trees but also don't want it 
to spread to this years planting.

Yesterday I pruned off and discarded as much of the infected wood as I could.  
I plan to hunt down some Serenade today.  The trees don't have any leaves yet 
and the recent planting only has leaf clusters on the variety that woke up in 
the nursery.

I'm anxious to start spraying as soon as possible, so my question is:  Is it 
good to start spraying now when all there is to spray at this point is wood?

Thanks,
Rye Hefley
Future Farmers Marketer
So. Cal.


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Re: [apple-crop] Powdery Mildew already: Spray timing question

2011-03-14 Thread Fleming, William
Try page 38 or Sec 1:32

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Rye
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2011 9:32 AM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Powdery Mildew already: Spray timing question

Hi Bill, thanks for that .pdf, it does look like a good resource on a lot of 
topics.

Researching on the web I noticed that Powdery Mildew is species specific, i.e. 
powdery mildew from on an apple tree is not the same powdery mildew on squash, 
nor is the treatment.  That .pdf talks about powdery mildew treatments for 
cherries, peaches, apricots but I didn't see a discussion on treatment for 
apple (other than apple toxicity comments for chemicals used for the other 
fruits).  I guess I need help interpreting what to use on apple.

Thanks,
Rye Hefley
Future Farmers Marketer
So. Cal.




-Original Message-
From: Fleming, William w...@montana.edu
To: Apple-crop discussion list apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Sent: Mon, Mar 14, 2011 8:13 am
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Powdery Mildew already: Spray timing question
Rye, it sounds like you might want to download and save this excellent resource
http://cru.cahe.wsu.edu/CEPublications/eb0419/eb0419.pdf


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: 
apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net
 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net?]
 On Behalf Of Rye
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2011 9:01 AM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: [apple-crop] Powdery Mildew already: Spray timing question

Hi folks,

On the apple trees I planted last year, I noticed the tell-tale white coating 
mostly on last season's newer shoots.  So I looked it up and low and behold 
they have powdery mildew.  The coating is not as thick as the worst picture I 
saw on the web, but the coverage area is a lot, i.e. it is worse than just 
splotchy.

Of course I aim to eradicate the problem on those trees but also don't want it 
to spread to this years planting.

Yesterday I pruned off and discarded as much of the infected wood as I could.  
I plan to hunt down some Serenade today.  The trees don't have any leaves yet 
and the recent planting only has leaf clusters on the variety that woke up in 
the nursery.

I'm anxious to start spraying as soon as possible, so my question is:  Is it 
good to start spraying now when all there is to spray at this point is wood?

Thanks,
Rye Hefley
Future Farmers Marketer
So. Cal.



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Re: [apple-crop] apples- not propaganda

2011-03-14 Thread Fleming, William
Seems like nowadays half the job of farming is political be it water, 
pesticides, zoning, etc.
In order to retain our agricultural way of life we have to band together 
politically and lobby for what will keep us in business.
Unfortunate but unavoidable.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of David Doud
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2011 4:26 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] apples- not propaganda

I want info about apples,

then contribute something -

for the record, I'm fine with the discussion going on - happy to see activity -
D
grower-indiana






On Mar 14, 2011, at 5:10 PM, Dennis Brackman wrote:


I want info about apples, not political chatter - please remove me from your 
e-mail list.
tgith


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Re: [apple-crop] Vertical Scaffold Spacing

2011-02-28 Thread Fleming, William
I had problems with just one 8' high wire.
Trees bowed too much under fruit load. Trees midway between trellis posts 
pulled the wire down causing the entire row to be pulled down and bowed. Bamboo 
was ¾ diameter.
One wire added later at 5 alleviated the problem.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Randy Steffens Jr
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2011 7:43 AM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Vertical Scaffold Spacing

For those who have high-density orchards, do you find trellising with one wire 
at about 9 feet provides sufficient support, if a bamboo stake or the like is 
placed at each tree?

Randy Steffens Jr
Shepherd's Valley Orchards
Middle Tennessee



On Feb 28, 2011, at 6:55 AM, Con.Traas wrote:


I agree with Terence and Dave,
Their experience and concerns have been borne out here in Ireland over the past 
number of years, where it has been survival of the more dense (orchards rather 
than orchardists). Obviously there are limits, but in our own case, for our 
single line orchards we have opted for 4 ft. x 11ft., and we have found this a 
good spacing for the more vigorous Elstar variety (more vigorous than Golden 
Delicious or Jonagold at least). We do not grow the trees as high as at lower 
latitudes (more mutual shading from taller trees when you come this far North), 
and have found that a limit of about 5 ½ to 6 feet height of cropping wall 
works well. In practice, this wall commences about 2 feet above the ground, and 
finishes at 7.5 feet, facilitating all harvesting and pruning from ground level.
Con Traas



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Re: [apple-crop] Vertical Scaffold Spacing

2011-02-28 Thread Fleming, William
Yes, sorry.
Monday morning you know

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of William H Shoemaker
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2011 8:49 AM
To: 'Apple-crop discussion list'
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Vertical Scaffold Spacing

Bill, did you mean 5'?

Bill
William H. Shoemaker
Sr. Research Specialist, Food Crops
University of Illinois - Crop Sciences
St Charles Horticulture Research Center
535 Randall Road, St Charles, IL, 60174
630-584-7254, FAX-584-4610
wshoe...@illinois.edumailto:wshoe...@illinois.edu

I had problems with just one 8' high wire.
Trees bowed too much under fruit load. Trees midway between trellis posts 
pulled the wire down causing the entire row to be pulled down and bowed. Bamboo 
was ¾ diameter.
One wire added later at 5 alleviated the problem.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana
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Re: [apple-crop] Training goal as it relates to initial planting

2011-02-24 Thread Fleming, William
With a 6' by 12 to 14 spacing I think you'd have less labor input just going 
with a simple central leader tree.
You can manipulate the central leader to keep it weak by bending to keep the 
tree height down.
Single stake for each tree, no trellis.
The training system you show in the picture looks like something a researcher 
would do, too much work for too little return.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of Tommy and Sandy
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 10:16 PM
To: Apple-crop discussion list
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Training goal as it relates to initial planting

Personally I would take my money and do something else with it rather than 
start an orchard.  Being in the farming business is an honorable profession, 
but there are easiler ways to lose money.

Tommy Bruguiere
Dickie Bros. Orchard
- Original Message -
From: Ed Facklermailto:ed.fack...@gmail.com
To: Apple-crop discussion listmailto:apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2011 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: [apple-crop] Training goal as it relates to initial planting

Rye:

 If you have good soil and live in S. Calif, those trees will get bigger 
than 7-9' and (likely) occupy more space than 6' between trees.

 And while you seem determined to use a wire trellis, you should know that 
wires are a pain.  Or as the trees grow and fill in their space limbs/foliage 
will make pruning difficult.  Reason.  Invariably you'll get your pruners into 
the wire and ruin both pruners and possibly the wire.  Further every time you 
want to get on the other side of this trellis you'll need to walk around the 
end of the row.  And on a hot (100 degree plus) day, this sort of stuff is 
unwanted.

I'd suggest you use a single post for each tree and simply anchor (tie) 
each tree to the post.

Ed..former grower, now too old to think about trellis...S. Ind...
2011/2/19 ducn...@aol.commailto:ducn...@aol.com

Hello, newbie here.

I am planting a small high density orchard.  I have bareroots on order on m9 
nic-29.  Due to arrive in the next week or three.  I'm planting with 6 foot 
in-row spacing and looking to maintain a tree height of about 7-9 feet on 4 (or 
5 if they look like they want to grow to 9 feet) wire trellises for a hedgegrow 
with the main branches latticed similar to this photo:

http://resources.cas.psu.edu/TFPG/apple_trellis/images/slide33.gif

Two ways I can think to accomplish this:

1) after planting, cut the scion to about 22 inches (from ground level) and 
train two leaders to grow 45 degrees North and South respectively.
2) initially plant trees at a 45 degree angle, leaning to the North, training a 
low shoot to grow 45 degrees to the South.

I lean towards option 1) but being a newbie I'm hesitant to cut them so short.  
However, that's what it looks like was done in the photo. Can a newly planted 
bareroot handle being cut to 22 inches?  Also they will be in grow tubes to 
protect from the critters.  Just wanted to mention that if it matters that only 
about 3 inches of wood will get a full day's sun initially.

Thank you so much for your consideration.

Rye Hefley
Future Farmer's Market Vendor
Private orchard in So. Cal.

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Re: [Apple-crop] low temp pruning

2011-02-02 Thread Fleming, William
Tom, all that I've ever heard is that you must let the trees reach full 
dormancy before pruning especially if making big flush to the trunk cuts. First 
week of December is almost always a safe time to start. I know some growers 
will tell their pruning crews that damage occurs if they prune when the temp is 
below a certain point but I think that's just an excuse to keep them from 
working when it's too cold and their productivity is impaired.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net 
[mailto:apple-crop-boun...@virtualorchard.net] On Behalf Of KD LINNEY
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2011 12:35 PM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: [Apple-crop] low temp pruning

Is there research or even anecdotal evidence that suggests a fairly definite 
low temperature at which to cease pruning apple or other fruit trees in 
consideration of impaired wound healing or any other potential tissue damage?  
I'm thinking of mid-winter when trees are still quite dormant, but also during 
cold snaps later in the season.  Thanks.

Tom Moss
Rollins, Montana

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RE: Apple-Crop: Fruit Penetrometer

2010-08-20 Thread Fleming, William
They aren't cheap.

 Best price I found was $150 here 
http://www.amazon.com/General-Purpose-Firmness-Penetrometer-Sclerometer/dp/B003H3VNQC

Just as accurate as the electronic one in the lab.



Bill Fleming

Montana State University

Western Ag Research Center

580 Quast Ln

Corvallis, Montana





-Original Message-
From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of BMH
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 3:11 PM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: Apple-Crop: Fruit Penetrometer



  Can anyone recommend a supply source for a simple fruit penetrometer

for pears and apples, primarily for field use?

-Brad



Brad M. Hollabaugh

General Manager

Hollabaugh Bros., Inc.

Biglerville, PA







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RE: Apple-Crop: RE:..and causes you to be fat too!

2010-07-27 Thread Fleming, William
From what I've read fresh water will be the limiting population factor long 
before energy.

I hate to see people dying off but perhaps a world population fewer than 2 
billion or even one billion would be much better for the planet and humans 
alike. In fact I think we all know deep down it would be.
It would be great if population reduction could take place in a voluntary lower 
birth rate manner but I'm not holding my breath especially when the capitalist 
system seems to depend on a constantly growing population.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, Montana

From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of Randy Beaudry
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 7:35 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: Re: Apple-Crop: RE:..and causes you to be fat too!

Another relatively sobering book on that topic is called the Long Emergency by 
J.H. Knustler, which details our dependence upon fossil fuels and the state of 
emergency that will (may?) ensue following the eventual consumption of world 
oil supplies past the point of peak oil.  A couple factoids from that book 
remain with me, including the high number of fuel calories needed to put a 
calorie of food (grain, fruit, vegetable, meat) in our bellies.  I can only 
assume that if/when shortages become real, the relative proportion of available 
oil resources will need to be redirected toward food - and that the efficiency 
of farming and marketing systems on a per calorie in versus a calorie out will 
need to be optimized.  It occurs to me that this is an area where farmers and 
industry will likely lead the way as they will be on the front lines of change. 
  The book Sustainable Energy (Without all the Hot Air) by  physicist David 
McKay helps frame the eventual decline in oil availability by explicitly 
describing what our long term options are for alternative energy (using the UK 
as a model) based on current science.  That's a pretty grim book as well in 
some regards, but both authors depict a sea change in human activity in the 
near future.

Randy Beaudry


On Jul 27, 2010, at 8:49 AM, robert wrote:


A couple of years ago,  I read a book called The Party's Over  which makes 
the case that we are fast approaching peak oil and that there is no alternative 
that will ever be as cheap and plentiful.  He quoted some expert who said that 
organic agriculture can only support 2 billion people on earth and that the 
human race in the last century had experienced the equivilant of an algae bloom 
with our use of cheap energy from petroleum in heating, transportation and 
(most importantly) agriculture. It may or may not be true but  it seems to me 
that this is what we have been talking about in the previous discussion.  It is 
food for thought.

Robert Justman
- Original Message - From: William H Shoemaker 
wshoe...@illinois..edumailto:wshoe...@illinois.edu
To: 'Apple-Crop' 
apple-crop@virtualorchard.netmailto:apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Sent: Tuesday, July 27, 2010 6:21 AM
Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: RE:..and causes you to be fat too!



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Randy Beaudry, Professor
A22 Plant and Soil Sciences Bldg.
Department of Horticulture
Michigan State University
East Lansing, MI 48824
(517)355-5191 x1303
beau...@msu.edumailto:beau...@msu.edu





RE: Apple-Crop: Turf in row middles

2010-07-08 Thread Fleming, William
I've found the best way to be successful in your type of situation is to spray 
Roundup to the centers to eliminate most rhizome type grasses and perennial 
broadleaves before you work the ground for replanting. Depending on your soil 
and the seeder used the ground may not even need to be tilled.
I've changed row middle vegetation type with this method in August before but 
used crested wheatgrass in our arid climate. Worked excellent even though it's 
recommended wheatgrass be planted in the fall or early spring.


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, MT 59828
(406)961-3025
 

-Original Message-
From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of Nick Lucking
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 9:52 PM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: Apple-Crop: Turf in row middles

Hello everyone.  This year for seeding the new row middles I used a  
Brillion seeder and a perennial rye/kentucky bluegrass mix I made.   
Started to come in real nice until the crabgrass came up on Memorial day and 
choked everything out.

My question is:  Does anyone know of a product that I can use to knock out the 
crab grass where food crops are grown?  All the labels I look at for the usual 
stuff Acclaim, Siduron, Dimension, etc. are only for ornamentals or non food 
areas.

Thanks,

Nick Lucking
Cannon Valley Orchard
Cannon Falls, MN


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RE: Apple-Crop: Rainfastness of sprays

2010-06-15 Thread Fleming, William
A repeated spray would probably be much cheaper than the damage caused if your 
spray was washed off.
I personally don't like taking chances like that, especially if it was for CM.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, MT 59828
(406)961-3025

-Original Message-
From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of Mark Angermayer
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 2010 1:34 PM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: Apple-Crop: Rainfastness of sprays

Apple-Crop: Scaffolds 6/14Today, the forecast was supposed to be clear of
rain.  I needed to get a spray on peaches.  I applied Delegate at the full
rate.  About 15 minutes afterward, it rained about 1/4.

My question - I know a locally systemic material like spinosad is supposed
to be very resistant to wash off, but how long does it take for enough of it
to be absorbed in the tissues to become rainfast?  Was this a wasted spray?

Thanks,
Mark Angermayer
Tubby Fruits
Bucyrus KS



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RE: Apple-Crop: organophosphates

2010-05-18 Thread Fleming, William
According to what read in the past the majority of pesticides and chemical 
fertilizers are used by homeowners who more often overuse them without reading 
the label.
Malathion is a popular insecticide available to homeowners at any supermarket 
or hardware store. I have to wonder if the study even looked at this aspect.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, MT 59828
(

From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of Deborah I Breth
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2010 5:49 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Cc: Christopher Brian Watkins; Helene R Dillard
Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: organophosphates

Thank you for addressing  this issue.  Although apples are not in the report, 
this report will certainly reinforce the concern  that family's feel the need 
to  go organic in general.  It will be important for commodity groups to get 
out there in the media and put this in perspective.  The organic production 
will not meet the needs of the general population at this point.

Deborah I. Breth
Cornell Cooperative Extension - Lake Ontario Fruit Program
Team Leader and IPM Specialist in Tree Fruit and Berries
12690 Rt. 31
Albion, NY   14411

phone: 585.798.4265 x 36
mobile:  585.747.6039
fax:  585.798.5191

email: d...@cornell.edu
LOF websitehttp://www.fruit.cornell.edu/lof

From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of Nancy Foster
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2010 7:31 PM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: organophosphates

Since today's ADHD-Organophosphate story was mentioned on Apple Crop/Virtual 
Orchard this morning, I wanted to share some information about it.

As you may have seen in the news clip below, the new study claims that exposure 
to certain organophosphate pesticides-specifically found on frozen blueberries, 
fresh strawberries and celery-appears to boost the chances that children will 
be diagnosed with attention deficit hyperactivity disorder.  To read more about 
what is being reported in the popular press go to the following link: 
http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/37156010/ns/health-kids_and_parenting/#ixzz0oDafw65a.
  The study is published in the journal Pediatrics.

The study has been picked up by over 400 national and local media outlets, 
including the national morning news shows.  For those interested, USApple 
analyzed the study and found:

Apples or apple products are not mentioned in the study's full report or any 
popular press articles.
No data in the study directly links cause and effect, just an association.  The 
study itself says prospective studies are needed to establish whether this 
association is causal.
Research methods used were questionable - one-time urine sample and telephone 
interview.

* A single urinalysis which detected OP metabolites was used to 
determine correlation with long-term disorder (ADHD).

* The study's subjects - children - were determined to have ADHD based 
on telephone interviews with caregivers, not a doctor's diagnosis or extensive 
medical check.
The researchers did not consider the children's overall diet or other possible 
sources of exposure to OP's.
Information on the use of pesticides in this study does not reflect the 
significant decline in OP use over the past decade.  If exposure to OP 
pesticides were significant in effecting the diagnosis of ADHD, then there 
would be a corresponding drop in ADHD diagnosis.

Nancy

Nancy Foster
U.S. Apple Association
(703) 442-8850
www.usapple.orghttp://www.usapple.org


From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of Mark Longstroth
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2010 9:02 AM
To: 'Apple-Crop'
Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: organophosphates

Yes, I saw it this morning on NBC Today show.
http://today.msnbc.msn.com/
It was the lead story at both 7 and 8 AM
http://today.msnbc.msn.com/id/37156010/ns/health-kids_and_parenting/

My thought was that is the end of the OPs

***
Mark Longstroth
MSUE Fruit Educator
http://www.canr.msu.edu/vanburen/disthort.htm

From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of David Doud
Sent: Monday, May 17, 2010 7:44 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: Apple-Crop: organophosphates

monday morning reading - it's going to be a long fall talking to people about 
this

Led by Maryse Bouchard in Montreal, researchers based at the University of 
Montreal and Harvard University examined the potential relationship between 
ADHD and exposure to certain toxic pesticides called organophosphates

http://www.time.com/time/health/article/0,8599,1989564,00.html?xid=rss-topstoriesutm_source=feedburnerutm_medium=feedutm_campaign=Feed%3A+time%2Ftopstories+%28TIME%3A+Top+Stories%29utm_content=Google+Reader

David Doud
grower - Indiana

__
This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security 

Apple-Crop: RE: Experience with cold temps post bloom

2010-05-11 Thread Fleming, William
I don't think your temps were cool enough and especially the duration long 
enough to cause damage. 28° is the temp for 10% kill post bloom but the 
duration needs to be about three hours.
I wouldn't worry one bit. Growing apples in WA state we considered a frost like 
yours to be a free thinning of fruit that was likely to drop anyway.
More likely it just speeded the natural drop along.
Sometimes with pears temps in that range can cause marking but with apples 
there is little concern.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, MT 59828

-Original Message-
From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of John Lyman III
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 7:06 AM
To: 'Apple-Crop'
Subject: Apple-Crop: Experience with cold temps post bloom

Hi,
Had cold temps ranging from 27.5 to 29 in low spots in our orchard this 
morning.  We are a week to 10 days past PF, and fruit size is on ave 8-12 mm.  
Does anyone have previous experience with cold temps at this stage that they 
could share?  Thoughts on approach to thinning, what fruit damage to expect, 
etc.  I think we were at these temps for just an hour or two.
Thanks,
John Lyman
Lyman Orchards
Middlefield, CT


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RE: Apple-Crop: degree days and apple bloom prediction

2010-03-31 Thread Fleming, William
I'm jealous, well sort of.
Fully dormant here at 4000 ft Montana. Skiff of snow last night with a low of 
24°, high today in the 40s.
Forecast is for lows in the teens. Plenty of time left here for pruning...

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, MT 59828


From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of Arthur Kelly
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 11:19 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: Re: Apple-Crop: degree days and apple bloom prediction

Acton, Maine
Mar. 31, 2010

McIntosh silver tip
Peaches swollen bud
Temps in the 70's for Fri and Sat
Copper spray on Easter ?
This is fun

Art Kelly
Kelly Orchards
On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 9:18 AM, William Sharp 
bsharp1...@yahoo.commailto:bsharp1...@yahoo.com wrote:
I am In the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia and we are about 1/2 green tip (or a 
little further) on Red Delicious.  It is supposed to be quite warm the next 
couple of days and I am trying to predict when apple bloom may be i.e.. will it 
be within the next week.  Does anyone have info on using DD to predict bloom?
We are not yet at bloom on peaches, but I expect it to start tommorrow...

Bill Sharp




RE: *Potential Spam* RE: Apple-Crop: Attaching trees to trellis

2010-02-12 Thread Fleming, William
Wish I could be provide pictures but my drill is 600 miles and a decade away.

Better yet I found a similar device that's very economical 
http://www.bookofjoe.com/2006/04/hose_drill_dig_.html
It doesn't have a big tip like mine did but says it will bore an 8 hole.
I used a 400 gallon air blast sprayer, fan turned off, pressure set at 80 psi. 
The hose to the drill needs to be at least ¾, preferably heavy duty enough to 
drag around rough ground.
With a 100' hose I could drill holes 5-6 rows on either side of the sprayer 
before it needed to be moved. 75-100 holes could be drilled per 400 gallon tank.

The way you form a pipe into a point is to first cut a series of touching 
triangles out of one end. You end up with a jagged edge that looks like a 
crown. Then just hammer the triangles inward so the edges and points touch, 
weld together.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, MT 59828
(406)961-3025

From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of lee elliott
Sent: Friday, February 12, 2010 5:29 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: *Potential Spam* RE: Apple-Crop: Attaching trees to trellis

Wish I couldsee a photo of this water drill, not clear, how do you cut,bend a 
6inch pieceof 4inch pipe, how about a photo, Lee Elliott, winchester,il

--- On Thu, 2/11/10, Fleming, William w...@montana.edu wrote:

From: Fleming, William w...@montana.edu
Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: Attaching trees to trellis
To: Apple-Crop apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Date: Thursday, February 11, 2010, 10:09 AM
Nick, the way it works when you use a tractor drawn tree planter is the logical 
place for the trellis poles is in the groove made by the planter.
If you attach the wire to the outside of the post with stapes the wire ends up 
half the post width out of line with the tree row..
That usually ends up being the 3-4 inches you mentioned.
Even if you don't use a planter better that the posts are in line with the tree 
row, wire will then be offset from the row.

Other things I've learned:
Rather than placing the trellis posts halfway between trees place them close to 
the tree. Depending on your tree spacing placing the post midway creates a 
small dead space that's harder to deal with for weed control. This is 
especially true if you're organic and using mechanical weed control but the 
post can also create a herbicide spray shadow.
With the post close to the tree you end up with one extra small space and 
another space almost equal to your tree spacing.

Using water to set the posts is the best method I've found. I made a tee shaped 
handle with 3/4 steel pipe, valve on the top of the tee.
Since we were using 4-5 posts I attached a 6 inch long piece of 4 pipe at the 
bottom of the tee. It was cut, bent, and welded to a point with a 1/2 outlet 
at the bottom for the water to exit. Water at 80 psi from a sprayer is plenty. 
Volume is more important than pressure.
With a two man crew we could set a very solid post in less than 30 seconds. One 
guy with the water, the other sets the post and plumbs it. You have to work 
very fast before soil suspended in the water settled, if it takes more than a 
second before the water drill is pulled out of the hole and the post is set it 
won't be as deep as you want.
The way it worked seemed excellent to me. Rocks and gravel would settle at the 
bottom of the post hole creating good drainage for the post. The fine silt that 
settled out of the water rapidly set up almost like concrete.
Much faster than an auger, less expense than a tractor mounted pounder.






Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, MT 59828
(406)961-3025

-Original Message-
From: 
apple-crop@virtualorchard.nethttp://us.mc354.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=apple-c...@virtualorchard.net
 
[mailto:apple-crop@virtualorchard.nethttp://us.mc354.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=apple-c...@virtualorchard.net]
 On Behalf Of Nick Lucking
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 10:49 PM
To: 
apple-crop@virtualorchard.nethttp://us.mc354.mail.yahoo.com/mc/compose?to=apple-c...@virtualorchard.net
Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: Attaching trees to trellis

Bill,

That's good to know.

On that note, when I plant these new trees should they be planted
directly inline with the trellis system?  Or be 2-3, or more inches
off the wire initially?  Thanks for the help, my horticulture degree
did not quite cover this!

Nick Lucking
Field Manager
Cannon Valley Orchard
Cannon Falls, MN


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Apple-Crop is not moderated. Therefore, the statements do not represent

RE: Apple-Crop: Attaching trees to trellis

2010-02-11 Thread Fleming, William
Nick, the way it works when you use a tractor drawn tree planter is the logical 
place for the trellis poles is in the groove made by the planter.
If you attach the wire to the outside of the post with stapes the wire ends up 
half the post width out of line with the tree row.
That usually ends up being the 3-4 inches you mentioned. 
Even if you don't use a planter better that the posts are in line with the tree 
row, wire will then be offset from the row.

Other things I've learned:
Rather than placing the trellis posts halfway between trees place them close to 
the tree. Depending on your tree spacing placing the post midway creates a 
small dead space that's harder to deal with for weed control. This is 
especially true if you're organic and using mechanical weed control but the 
post can also create a herbicide spray shadow.
With the post close to the tree you end up with one extra small space and 
another space almost equal to your tree spacing.

Using water to set the posts is the best method I've found. I made a tee shaped 
handle with 3/4 steel pipe, valve on the top of the tee.
Since we were using 4-5 posts I attached a 6 inch long piece of 4 pipe at the 
bottom of the tee. It was cut, bent, and welded to a point with a 1/2 outlet 
at the bottom for the water to exit. Water at 80 psi from a sprayer is plenty. 
Volume is more important than pressure.
With a two man crew we could set a very solid post in less than 30 seconds. One 
guy with the water, the other sets the post and plumbs it. You have to work 
very fast before soil suspended in the water settled, if it takes more than a 
second before the water drill is pulled out of the hole and the post is set it 
won't be as deep as you want.
The way it worked seemed excellent to me. Rocks and gravel would settle at the 
bottom of the post hole creating good drainage for the post. The fine silt that 
settled out of the water rapidly set up almost like concrete. 
Much faster than an auger, less expense than a tractor mounted pounder.






Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, MT 59828
(406)961-3025

-Original Message-
From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of Nick Lucking
Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 10:49 PM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: Attaching trees to trellis

Bill,

That's good to know.

On that note, when I plant these new trees should they be planted  
directly inline with the trellis system?  Or be 2-3, or more inches  
off the wire initially?  Thanks for the help, my horticulture degree  
did not quite cover this!

Nick Lucking
Field Manager
Cannon Valley Orchard
Cannon Falls, MN


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RE: Apple-Crop: Trimming Roots on Benchgrafts

2010-02-10 Thread Fleming, William
I can only surmise it's because M-111 tends to sucker badly especially if some 
of the roots are jaded (pointed upwards). No big deal if planted by hand to 
correct the root position but if using a three point tree planter at high speed 
it would be preferable to trim the roots to avoid jading.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, MT 59828
(406)961-3025
-Original Message-
From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of Kevin Hauser
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 7:40 AM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: Apple-Crop: Trimming Roots on Benchgrafts


At several places I've seen the roots on vigorous benchgraft rootstocks like 
M111 trimmed back to short (1/2) knubs before planting in commercial orchards. 
 Can someone tell me what is the purpose of this, and does it take longer to 
establish growth on these trees?

Thanks 
--
Kevin Hauser
Kuffel Creek Apple Nursery
Riverside, Southern California



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RE: Apple-Crop: Attaching trees to trellis

2010-02-10 Thread Fleming, William
After years of trial and error I've found the metal clips are the only device 
that definitely will stay in place. I have only used the large size.
The tree will grow into the clip just as often as it grows into the trellis 
wire. I only used the clips at the top ten foot wire so wasn't concerned about 
girdling. Plastic tree tape did well on lower wires till the tree reached the 
top wire. Even with the trellis wire and clip completely grown into the tree it 
didn't seem to affect vigor even though it would be welcome high in the tree.

Only problem I've encountered is when it comes to tree removal if the tree has 
grown into the wire, it's not just a simple matter of unclipping the clip. 
Workers often had to carry wire cutters, loppers and a saw to release the tree. 
Problem is compounded if you want to reuse the trellis wire or leave it in 
place for the new trees.
Mistakes happen and the trellis wire can accidently get cut or the 
galvanization scraped off.

One way to get away from the problems is to use the metal clip to attach a 
stake, conduit, etc to the wire then tie the tree to the support.
Of course that involves the expense of a stake that can really add up with 
trees two feet apart.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, MT 59828
(406)961-3025

-Original Message-
From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of Nick Lucking
Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 5:40 PM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: Apple-Crop: Attaching trees to trellis

Hello everyone,

I see that the U clip is a popular item to attach B.9, M.9, etc.  
trees to a trellis.  Are you guys going with the larger version to  
allow for growth or is the smaller version better for this application?

Does anyone have any problems with the metal rubbing bark of the tree?

Thanks for the input,

Nick Lucking
Field Manager
Cannon Valley Orchard
Cannon Falls, MN


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RE: Apple-Crop: FreezePruf?

2010-02-01 Thread Fleming, William
We have a long term project at our station into season extendeders that 
includes hoop houses, row covers, mulches, etc. Every company I contact is 
happy to provide products, not this one. I emailed them and they weren't 
interested.
Makes me think they don't want their product under scientific scrutiny.  

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, MT 59828
(406)961-3025
-Original Message-
From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of Con.Traas
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 2:21 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: FreezePruf?

Hello all,
I'm wondering about the differences between these two products. I note
that the freezepruf contains ethylene glycol, which is the active
constituent in anti-freeze, but could it have an effect at the
concentrations that would end up in the plant tissue? What kind of
concentration would end up in the plant tissue anyhow, given that a 2%
solution of ethylene glycol is what is being sprayed?
Does anyone know of these botanists who developed the product? Did they
conduct efficacy trials? How did they decide on the appropriate dose
rates etc? Has there been any peer-reviewed research?
Con Traas
The Apple Farm
Cahir
Ireland.




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RE: Apple-Crop: Apples in Afghanistan

2010-01-13 Thread Fleming, William
I truly hope this isn't a common practice in Afghanistan, but it was relayed to 
me by a fellow who volunteers with a group that plants trees in Afghanistan.
I believe it to be true as wild as it sounds.

Irrigation canals in Afghanistan have been used much like the trenches of WWI 
and have been bombed to the point of uselessness for decades. As a result there 
is a whole generation of Afghanis who don't have a clue about farming.
Here's the part that's hard to believe, they thought that honey bees sucked the 
energy out of fruit tree flowers resulting in small fruit or no fruit. To 
combat this they staged a full on war to destroy wild bee colonies. Poor crops 
more likely were caused by a lack of pollination.
Convincing them otherwise was a major endeavor but hopefully sunk in.

Can't always assume that the things we take for granted as common knowledge to 
apply elsewhere.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, MT 59828


From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of Michael Vaughn
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 8:32 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: Re: Apple-Crop: Apples in Afghanistan

I would agree that agriculture leading to more food to eat locally would help 
any nation.  However our government (State Department) might not be the best 
vehicle for that effort.

The last two years the state dep't has supplied afghan opium farmers with wheat 
seed and fertilizer for acreage trading in hopes they would expand acreage for 
crops and reduce Opium production.  The reports from the UN and other's show 
the afghan's did in fact reduce the acreage used for Opium.  However the 
fertilizer was used to improve the reduced Opium fields and increase the 
overall Opium Production (Volume).  The wheat was grown in limited production.

So the question is how do you reduce the thousand's of years of traditional 
Opium Production while promoting food based agriculture?  Especially at 
taxpayer expense!

On 1/13/10, Bill Shoemaker 
wshoe...@illinois.edumailto:wshoe...@illinois.edu wrote:
I have a colleague who just returned from Afganistan. He was very happy with 
his service there. He feels he's contributing to the effort to build a stable 
society. They may make more money with drug crops but they have neigbors who 
need to eat.

Bill



   Happy New Year to all,

   I read an interesting piece on Reuters News
   yesterday. I see that some more US agricultural
   advisors will be sent to Afghanistan, though I
   wonder if it is realistic to suggest to farmers
   there that nuts and apples will give higher returns
   than opium. I'm sure that I am preaching to the
   converted here when I suggest that apple growing is
   hardly a highly profitable venture.

   Con Traas



   http://in.reuters.com/article/southAsiaNews/idINIndia-45331820100112



   KABUL (Reuters) - Interrupted by the occasional
   whirring of military helicopters overhead, the U.S.
   agriculture chief sipped pomegranate juice with
   Afghan farmers, who told him not enough
   international aid was getting through.

   Wrapping up a three-day visit to Afghanistan on
   Tuesday, Tom Vilsack met the farmers -- representing
   pomegranate and apple growers -- at an fruit juice
   export plant in Kabul, part funded by the United
   States which has made agriculture the biggest
   non-security priority in the country.

   Seated outside, the farmers complained of lack of
   credit facilities -- something Vilsack is looking
   into -- and problems in the entire farming chain,
   from acquiring seeds to a lack of refrigeration and
   getting goods to market during a war.

   We hear of pledges of funding but we have not seen
   anything yet, said Haji Ghulam Dastageen, an apple
   and apricot farmer from Paktia province. We are
   looking forward to getting assistance from the
   international community and from the (agriculture)
   ministry, he added via a translator.

   Vilsack, who pointed to the U.S.-funded juice
   factory behind him as proof of U.S. commitment,
   later announced an additional $20 million in aid to
   help improve Afghanistan's agriculture ministry
   deliver services to farmers.

   After decades of conflict, Afghanistan lacks many
   of the personnel and knowledge resources needed to
   deliver much-needed services to its people, more
   than 80 percent of whom rely on agriculture for
   wages and sustenance, he said at a news conference
   announcing the funds.

   Last year, the United States spent about $300
   million on agriculture projects in Afghanistan and
   projected spending this year is more than $400
   million. Vilsack also promised to send more U.S.
   agricultural advisors.

   The hope is that funds spent bolstering
   Afghanistan's agriculture ministry will improve
   delivery of services to the country's farmers and
   thus boost confidence in central government and draw
   support away 

RE: Apple-Crop: manure

2009-11-05 Thread Fleming, William
Unfortunate is right considering how many calls we get at the research center 
every summer from people whose gardens have been killed by manure or compost 
made with straw that has high residual herbicide levels. Tordon and Milestone 
seem to be the main culprits and can take years even in a compost pile to break 
down to safe levels.
Many times the herbicide comes in on hay and the person whose animals made the 
manure is totally unsuspecting. The only one to blame is the person who uses 
the end product without totally checking it out, everyone ahead of them in the 
process has obeyed the law.
 I've often thought that if an unscrupulous person wanted to cheat the organic 
laws they could use manure with herbicide residue for legal weed control.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, MT 59828





From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of Axel Kratel
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 10:26 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: Re: Apple-Crop: manure

Unfortunately, the answer is yes, at least according to OMRI. I say 
unfortunately, because this means a certified organic orchard in this manner 
can have more chemical pesticides than a conventional orchard that uses organic 
pesticides but chemical fertilizer.

I would love to hear how you manage an organic apple orchard in Maine, that 
must be a tough thing to do. Here in the West we are so dry during the growing 
season that organic is relatively easy to do. But I hear it's much harder on 
the East coast.



From: Jill Kelly kelly...@metrocast.net
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Sent: Thu, November 5, 2009 6:41:49 AM
Subject: Apple-Crop: manure

If you apply manure from animals that are not raised organically or are 
confined to cages or feed lots are you still organic?  I think too much!

Art Kelly
Kelly Orchards
Acton, ME


RE: Apple-Crop: deer

2009-08-03 Thread Fleming, William
In a sense we do treat deer the same as codling moth, if we're smart we fence 
them out.
Spraying for deer doesn't really work just like fencing out codling moth 
doesn't. 


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, MT 59828
(406)961-3025
 

-Original Message-
From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of rkpeng...@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, August 01, 2009 6:11 PM
Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: deer



-Original Message-
From: Fleming, William w...@montana.edu
To: Apple-Crop apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Sent: Wed, Jul 8, 2009 7:10 pm
Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: deer

At the risk of being branded by PETA as the Charles Manson of the animal world, 
why do growers treat deer (a pest of their fruit trees) differently than 
Codling Moth ( a pest of their fruit trees).

-Original Message-
From: Fleming, William w...@montana.edu
To: Apple-Crop apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Sent: Wed, Jul 8, 2009 7:10 pm
Subject: RE: Apple-Crop: deer

I was planning on a 10' electric deer fence this fall but if Budweiser would 
work instead it's on sale right now.


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, MT 59828





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RE: Apple-Crop: UK: Organic nutrient levels 'no higher' (Fruitnet.com)

2009-07-31 Thread Fleming, William
I think nutrition alone doesn't determine why a shopper would prefer organic.
For some it's a matter of ideals and for others a distrust (perceived or real?) 
of the chemicals used on our food.
For some it's support of small local farmers where sustainability appears 
greater than large scale commercial farming.
I wish parathion and DDT hadn't of been banned but after visiting a commercial 
egg factory I'll never eat another commercial egg.
I doubt this report, which was also on CNN yesterday, will make a heck of a lot 
of difference in the sales of organic.

Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, MT 59828
(406)961-3025




From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net [mailto:apple-c...@virtualorchard.net] On 
Behalf Of Dan Digiacomandrea
Sent: Friday, July 31, 2009 6:56 AM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: Apple-Crop: UK: Organic nutrient levels 'no higher' (Fruitnet.com)


Thought this was a timely article considering the recent threads on Apple Crop. 
Just wanted to fan the flames a little. It's been kind of quiet!

UK: Organic nutrient levels 'no higher' (Fruitnet.com)

Report suggests there is no significant difference in nutritional value of 
organic crops compared with conventionally grown produce

A report commissioned by the UK Food Standards Agency has dealt a hefty blow to 
the organic food sector after it concluded there was no significant difference 
in the nutritional value or health benefits associated with organically 
produced products compared with food produced using conventional methods.

The study, which was conducted by the London School of Hygiene  Tropical 
Medicine (LSHTM), looked at a broad number of research projects conducted over 
the past 50 years.

Of the 55 studies referenced in the final report, only a handful confirmed 
differences in the nutritional content of organic versus conventional food. 
Those differences, said the LSHTM, were not large enough to make any difference 
to public health.

A small number of differences in nutrient content were found to exist between 
organically and conventionally produced crops and livestock, but these are 
unlikely to be of any public health relevance, said Dr Alan Dangour, who led 
the investigation. Our review indicates that there is currently no evidence to 
support the selection of organically over conventionally produced foods on the 
basis of nutritional superiority.

Published in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, the report found no 
differences in most nutrients - including vitamin C, calcium, and iron - 
between the two kinds of crop.

Where differences were observed, for example in the level of nitrogen and 
phosphorus detected, these were most likely to be due to differences in 
fertilizer use and ripeness at harvest and were unlikely to provide any health 
benefit, the report concluded.

However, the report has been heavily criticised by UK organics lobby group the 
Soil Association. Policy director Peter Melchett argued that the review had 
rejected almost all the existing studies of comparisons between organic and 
non-organic nutritional differences.

Although the researchers say that the differences between organic and 
non-organic food are not 'important', due to the relatively few studies, they 
report in their analysis that there are higher levels of beneficial nutrients 
in organic compared to non-organic foods, he said. Without large-scale, 
longitudinal research, it is difficult to come to far-reaching clear 
conclusions on this, which was acknowledged by the authors of the FSA review. 
Also, there is not sufficient research on the long-term effects of pesticides 
on human health.

The study did not take into consideration the use of pesticides or the 
environmental impact of the different farming practices involved.

Gill Fine, FSA director of consumer choice and dietary health, said: Ensuring 
people have accurate information is absolutely essential in allowing us all to 
make informed choices about the food we eat. This study does not mean that 
people should not eat organic food. What it shows is that there is little, if 
any, nutritional difference between organic and conventionally produced food 
and that there is no evidence of additional health benefits from eating organic 
food.

She added: We recognise that there are many reasons why people choose to eat 
organic, such as animal welfare or environmental concerns. The agency will 
continue to give consumers accurate information about their food based on the 
best available scientific evidence.



Published 30 July 2009


Dan DiGiacomandrea
Bayer CropScience
68 Chadwick Manor
Fairport, NY 14450
585-330-3263
Fax 585-425-8774
Email: dan.digiacomand...@bayercropscience.com
Website: www.bayercropscienceus.com



The information contained in this e-mail is for the exclusive use of the 
intended recipient(s) and may be confidential, 

RE: Apple-Crop: deer

2009-07-08 Thread Fleming, William
I was planning on a 10' electric deer fence this fall but if Budweiser
would work instead it's on sale right now.


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, MT 59828

 



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RE: *Potential Spam* Re: Apple-Crop: Ethryl

2009-01-29 Thread Fleming, William
 My experience will Ethryl bordered on unethical. About two weeks before
a large, beautiful Golden Delicious harvest we had a hail storm. Fruit
sugar levels were too low by Washington state law to harvest so the
packing house fieldman recommended spraying Ethryl to raise sugar levels
before the hail marks showed up. Around 200 bins of fruit was sprayed,
rush harvested, packed and sold within a week. Our returns came back
good with no complaints from the packinghouse salesmen so I guess it
must have worked. I wouldn't recommend it nor do it again.


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, MT 59828

 



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RE: *Potential Spam* Apple-Crop: Apple tree support systems

2008-11-13 Thread Fleming, William
I've never had to experience hurricane force winds but have seen many
winds in excess of 50 mph coming from all directions usually associated
with thunder storms. Trees were on M7 and M26. Our simple yet effective
trellis system has held up well with no tree losses. 
Trellis system consisted of 12' treated 4' diameter posts sunk 2' in the
ground spaced 50' apart with angled post at the row ends. Just one 13
gauge high tensile wire was stretched and stapled to the top of the post
at ten feet and led down over the angled end post to a 4' screw in type
metal anchor.

When the trees were first planted a sheet rock screw was screwed in
about 4 above the ground, sounds a bit brutal but I saw no ill effects.
Heavy duty UV resistant baling twine was tied to the wire directly above
the tree then tied off to the screw. Plastic tree tie tape was tied
around the trunk and baling twine about every 2' as the tree grew.
The sheet rock screw also served the purpose to attach kite string used
to pull down lower branches in training.
The twine attached to the central leader was also a good place to tie
heavier string used to keep fruit laden branches from breaking off.

In your case with older trees you could just tie the twine to a lower
leader at the central leader and use tree tape in several places up the
central. Single wire at ten feet doesn't interfere with orchard traffic.
In fact you could even tractor mow it cross ways providing there is
enough space between the trees.

When I penciled it out this system was cheaper, labor included, than a
2 treated post at each tree but with wire prices going though the roof
lately (along with every thing else) it might have changed. If you
really expect 70 mph winds substitute 1/2 electrical conduit pounded in
the ground and attached to the single wire instead of the baling twine.
Smaller pipe size should be much cheaper than a larger pipe free
standing. 
Post length and wire height could change with your projected tree
height.

Good luck in whatever system you choose.


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, MT 59828

 

-Original Message-
From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David Barclay
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 1:41 PM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: *Potential Spam* Apple-Crop: Apple tree support systems

I am planning a replacement of our present apple tree support system
used on our more dwarfing and weaker rooted stocks.
Presently our M26 trees are wooden staked. Lately we have had some minor
storms with winds up to 40 MPH. After these storms we have had to
straighten and re-stake around 50 trees each time. The wooden stakes
either break, bend or just pull out. I have also seen staked
M7 trees blown over. This can happen even on lighter-cropped trees and
1/2 through the season.
Since we are 10 miles from the Jersey shore I am worried about a strong
hurricane with winds, say, of 75 MPH with a heavy fruit load.
Some research has indicated that long, deeply placed steel stakes at
each tree along with sturdy tying would work. Another idea is a single,
heavily guyed cable down the row next the the central leaders. I am not
fond of a full trellis system because of the expense, the installation
problems in older blocks and the accessibility problems for
pick-your-own.
I am wondering if any of you have seen or have experience with tree
support systems that really work well for storm protection.
Thank you.

David Barclay
Colts Neck, New Jersey  




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RE: Apple-Crop: ROI on bringing back derelict portions of an orchard...

2008-11-10 Thread Fleming, William
We have ten 100 year plus Macs that weren't tended to for eight years.
They aren't going anywhere since they are considered a historical site.
Just getting the height down to where an airblast sprayer could reach
them involved a chainsaw on a 18 foot ladder making ten inch cuts.
About 16 man hours per tree.
Never again...
 
Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, MT 59828
 
 
 



From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Matt McCallum
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2008 12:34 PM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: Re: Apple-Crop: ROI on bringing back derelict portions of an
orchard...


I also tried it once and would never do it again. The old varieties just
do not hold a candle to the new ones and you will spend more money on
labor bringing it back than you'd spend on new trees. We also found out
that we had a resistant strain of apple scab in the orchard and could
never get very good control. 

Matt McCallum


On Nov 10, 2008, at 10:04 AM, Mosbah Kushad wrote:



Mike: My suggestion is not to waist your time and money on an
orchard that has been ignored for that long, unless you are a
researcher.  I have seen a couple of orchards in Illinois that had the
same situation where the owners tried for a couple of years to revive
the trees, but they failed ..  Several new varieties, rootstocks,  and
training systems have been developed in the last 10 to 15 years that may
work better for you.   Call Jon Clements or Wes Autio at U Mass and they
will help you out.. Mosbah Kushad, University of Illinois

From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Meehan
Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2008 11:15 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: Apple-Crop: ROI on bringing back derelict portions of
an orchard...
Hi all. The orchard I work for brought back a section last year
that had been untended and out of production for at least 10 years. I
was wondering if anyone has done something similar in recent years, and
had any data on the return on investment in the first/second year, fruit
quality, extra steps taken, etc...?
I am preparing all this data for my orchard, and was wondering
if anyone had anything similar to compare it to.
Thank you all for your consideration.
Mike Meehan
Sholan Farms
Leominster, MA






RE: Apple-Crop: Wire limb spreaders

2008-07-08 Thread Fleming, William
 I used the wire spreaders you describe many years ago purchased from
Northwest Wholesale in Wenatchee, Washington. 
The spreaders were made and patented by a man in Wenatchee. They worked
great but the biggest complaint was occasionally they would get lost
in a tree only to be found by a pair of unsuspecting loppers years
later. This usually resulted in damage to the lopper.


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, Montana

 

-Original Message-
From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Black Diamond Farm
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 7:14 AM
To: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
Subject: Apple-Crop: Wire limb spreaders

 About 10 years ago we bought a bunch of wire limb spreaders in 2 
 sizes.  For a certain stage of growth (between clothespins and notched

 angle spreaders) they are the only type of spreader that I've found 
 that works for  limbs that are still flexible.

 Since we can't post photos to the list-serve, let me attempt to 
 describe them:
Each spreader consists of a firm wire that you hook around the main
trunk of the tree.
The other part of the wire extends out (they come in a couple of
lengths) a ways along the limb.
There's a gentle hook that you place on the limb to hold it down, maybe
12 or 15 inches out.

 We recently put in a new block of trees and next spring will need more

 of these spreaders.
 Does anyone know of a supplier who still sells these?

 Thanks,
 Jackie Merwin
 Black Diamond Farm
 Trumansburg, NY
 www.incredapple.com




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RE: Apple-Crop: Referral needed - orchards and sheep

2007-06-25 Thread Fleming, William
I recall years ago reading of what's called a Spanish halter used for
sheep grazing in orchards. What the halter did was to keep the sheep
from being able to look up. When they can't look up the only orchard
foliage they are able to eat is the very lowest hanging. 


Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
Corvallis, MT 59828


-Original Message-
From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Howell
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 11:10 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: Re: Apple-Crop: Referral needed - orchards and sheep

Several years ago we worked with Linda Hardesty of WSU's Department of
Natural Resource Sciences on a LISA grant to study the potential of
using sheep to control under story growth in a mature cherry orchard.
The pasture treatments were - 1. what existed naturally, 2. a planted
mixture of orchard grass and Bird's foot trefoil.  Grazed and non-grazed
plots were set up for each treatment.  You should contact Linda
([EMAIL PROTECTED] ) for more advice on forage for sheep in an
orchard setting for Western Washington.

A larger part of the experiment for us was convincing sheep not to eat
cherry foliage.  Those efforts included barriers (movable pens, fencing,
head elevation restrictors for the sheep) and aversion training (similar
to what some alcoholics might endure to wean themselves from the
bottle).  We only had problems with debarking when the animals were
allowed to stay in the orchard for extended periods of time.  It was
best only to allow them in the orchard for short feeding cycles.
Bedding down was best allowed in a nearby pen.

All in all, it was a very interesting study.  However, in the end I
found the effort more than the wool and meat were worth.  I valued my
trees as significantly more important than the small livestock
operation.  Someone else might figure out a better way. Linda tells me
she knows of a few growers who allow sheepherders to sweep their flocks
through large orchards in the fall to clean up weeds, leaves and fruit
drops.

Bill Howell
Yakima Valley, WA


- Original Message -
From: Stina Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Apple-Crop [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 1970 3:54 AM
Subject: Re: Apple-Crop: Referral needed


 I tried sheep under my full sized pear trees, and ended up having to
 put fences around each tree as the sheep were climbing up in the tree
 to eat the young fruit and the leaves.  I pulled the sheep before they
 could girdle the bark.  I got mixed results as far as mowing, and as I
 am an orchardist, not a livestockist, the sheep were small when they
 went to slaughter.  Maybe others have had better results, but I found
 it cheaper and easier to buy lamb from my neighbor, and continue to
use
 my mower in the orchard.  Best of luck.

 Stina Booth
 Booth Canyon Orchard
 Twisp, Washington
 On Friday, June 22, 2007, at 08:02 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  Hello Listers:
 
  Can anyone refer me to a turf specialist in USDA Extension so that I
  can find these answers?
 
  There was a USDA SARE project completed a number of years ago which
  demonstrated the potential to take income from two farm enterprises:
  Trellised tree fruit grown over a grass orchard floor grazed by
Sheep.
   Sounds impossible, I know, but it was successful as well as
organic,
  and it reduced floor maintenance considerably.
 
  What I would like to know is what was/were the grass(es) used.  Here
  is why.  Sheep are vulnerable to endophyte toxicity which is common
in
  some grass species, therefore the species/varieties of grasses must
be
  endophyte free.  I suspect the answer will be one or more of the rye
  grasses which I understand are used for grazing in New Zealand.  It
  needs also to be hardy in Zone 6-7.
 
  I would also hope that any such endophyte free grass(es) be
something
  more manageable than the heavy producing forage varieties used for
  green chop and hay production so that it is possible to use power
  mowers if necessary, esp. as the harvest season approaches after the
  sheep have been pulled off.
 
  Thanks you kindly!
  D. Del Boca
  N.W. Washington State
 
 
 
 
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 official opinions and the Virtual Orchard takes no responsibility
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 the content.











RE: *Potential Spam* Apple-Crop: bee activity

2007-05-11 Thread Fleming, William
Not sure on the pollen aspect but when the temps rise bees start
spending more time hauling water to the hive rather than foraging. 
Best thing a grower can do is make sure a water supply the bees can
access without drowning is close by.
 
Bill Fleming
Montana State University
Western Ag Research Center
580 Quast Ln
Corvallis, MT 59828
(406)961-3025
 



From: apple-crop@virtualorchard.net
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Franklyn Carlson
Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 5:46 AM
To: Apple-Crop
Subject: *Potential Spam* Apple-Crop: bee activity


-- 

Would like to get some comments  feedback regarding temps and bee
activity during a real hot bloom period.  Here in central Massachusetts
we have had temps in the 88 degree range for the last 3 to 4 days.  Have
not seen much bee activity in McIntosh at all.  We see some activity in
the Cortland, Delicious etc.  Growers that get bees from different
suppliers are noticing the same thing. Can it get too hot and make the
pollen unattractive to the bees?

Frank Carlson 

Carlson Orchards, Inc.

Harvard, MA