RE: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat!

2010-09-06 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Alan,

Send some of that to Upstate New York as it's pretty chilly here. 45 at
present and only going to 75. High yesterday was 65

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Alan Paganelli
  Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 9:58 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat!



  We had 105 and 74 today. That's certainly better then the 111 of
yesterday.
  Still, it' above the normals of 98 and 73.

  Alan

  Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
  There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
  the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!

  The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
  available upon request.

  - Original Message -
  From: Max Robinson m...@maxsmusicplace.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 10:09 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat!

   We didn't just break the low temperature record this morning, we
shattered
   it into smithereens. The record was 48 and the low was 43. I don't like
   the hot weather nor do I like the coldest of winter. That's why fall and
   spring are my two favorite times of the year.
  
   Regards.
  
   Max. K 4 O D S.
  
   Email: m...@maxsmusicplace.com
  
   Transistor site http://www.funwithtransistors.net
   Vacuum tube site: http://www.funwithtubes.net
   Music site: http://www.maxsmusicplace.com
  
   To subscribe to the fun with transistors group send an email to.
   funwithtransistors-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
  
   To subscribe to the fun with tubes group send an email to,
   funwithtubes-subscr...@yahoogroups.com
  
   - Original Message -
   From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Sunday, September 05, 2010 5:53 AM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat!
  
  
  I hesitate to sound like I'm complaining as it is only in the 50s here
in
  the sunny and hot South.
   - Original Message -
   From: Dale Leavens
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 9:33 PM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Who turned off the heat!
  
  
  
   It's 44F here this evening! Who turned off the heat! Didn't get up to
50
   all day.
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  
  
  
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  
  
   
  
   Send any questions regarding list management to:
   blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
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agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
   Or
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   The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
   http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  
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   list just send a blank message to:
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   Send any questions regarding list management to:
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   To listen to the show archives go to link
  
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p
agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
   Or
   ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  
   The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
   http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  
   Visit the archives page at the following address
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   blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
  
  
  
  



  


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[BlindHandyMan] changing settings

2010-08-31 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Lately I've tried changing my settings via email in this
group but they don't seem to work like they used to. For
instance , when I went on vacation last week I sent a blank
message to the following to go mo mail while away
blindhandyman-nom...@yahoogroups.com

This did not work as in the past. Do these type commands
work anymore or is there a new way to do it?

thanks
Al



RE: [BlindHandyMan] changing settings

2010-08-31 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
David,

Thanks, it used to happen almost instantaneously . However, I did this
before I went on vacation and still no word. I tried again today. I like the
way things get changed on your groups better

Al -Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
Behalf Of David Ferrin
Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 11:07 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] changing settings



  That should work Alan, if anything has changed with Yahoo groups they sure
  didn't tell me about it. Mind you that does take a couple of hours or days
  depending to take effect.
  David Ferrin
  dpf.1...@yahoo.com
  - Original Message -
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins arobb...@nycap.rr.com
  To: Blindhandyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 9:11 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] changing settings

  Lately I've tried changing my settings via email in this
  group but they don't seem to work like they used to. For
  instance , when I went on vacation last week I sent a blank
  message to the following to go mo mail while away
  blindhandyman-nom...@yahoogroups.com

  This did not work as in the past. Do these type commands
  work anymore or is there a new way to do it?

  thanks
  Al

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view
_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
  Or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
list
  just send a blank message to:
  blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] changing settings

2010-08-31 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Bryce

Thanks, that sounds better, I'll take a look

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Brice Mijares
  Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2010 11:21 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] changing settings



  Personally I go to my yahoo groups, scroll down past all the groups, and
  there is some check boxes where you can set all active groups to no mail
  which takes affect quite quickly. I do this every time I'm going to be
away
  from the computer more than a couple of days. Then when you are ready to
  resume receiving mail, go back to the same check boxes and make the
  necessary changes and save the settings.



  


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Using Gas Grill!

2010-08-30 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Claudia,

If you get one delivered all assembled, or have some sighted assistance
assembling, then you should have no problem. Basically you turn a valve on
the tank to allow gas to flow to the tank then simply turn on a burner unit
and press the self igniter. After that works very similar to a gas stove.
Can't speak for others but I don't find a big issue in using one.

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Claudia
  Sent: Monday, August 30, 2010 6:25 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Using Gas Grill!



  Hi,

  The honey  I, being both totally blind, want to know how easy or
difficult it is to use a gas outdoor grill?
  We're both pretty confident cookds, but something just scares me about the
whole gas thing!
  I guess I'd like to know how doable it is?
  Thanks.

  Claudia

  Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
  Skype: claudiadr10

  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
signature database 5408 (20100830) __

  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

  http://www.eset.com

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?

2010-08-20 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
When at the hardware store recently, I was looking at some Pex accessories.
One thing they have that I thought was pretty neat are little pre bent
brackets that go around the Pex at a point you make a ben to maintain it.

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 8:43 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?



  It probably can be bent more severely than i said with care or supported
with a spring.

  As someone else said, it used to be thought that PEX should not come
within 6 feet of a water heating system, I don't know if that is still true.
The newer materials are probably more forgiving. One of the main advantages
is that you can pull it up through partitions without needing to splice in
elbows and now they are running it in loops to provide under floor heating
so the radius must be better than I first stated.

  I'll try to find out later.

  - Original Message -
  From: NLG
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 10:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?

  Thanks for the reply. Not sure where I got the impression that PEX 3/4
inch could be coiled into a loup of 7 inches...Like I said, I never worked
with PEX before and with new technology coming out every day, maybe they
have a braded PEX or some product that can be?
  - Original Message -
  From: Dale Leavens
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 9:48 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?

  PEX is flexible but only to an arc of maybe 3 feet diameter. In your
situation you might consider a loop or an arc allowing you the extra length
when/if you need it. With a hundred feet though you should be able to
replace it when that occasion arises.

  - Original Message -
  From: NLG
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, August 19, 2010 9:18 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] PEX?

  I have never worked with PEX before. Under the impression that PEX was
flexable, I thought I had an application here where PEX would be ideal. Last
year I added a hot water coil to my wood/coal furnace to heat my domestic
hot water. This setup consisted of a stainless steel loup, approximately 24
inches long and installed into the fire box of my furnace. Being
approximately 20 feet away from my electric water heater I could not utilize
a thermo-syphon, so installed a small circulating pump to move the water
from the bottom of the electric water heater through the loup installed in
the wood furnace back to the top of the electric water heater. I used 3/4
inch soft copper to make the run from the electric water heater to the wood
furnace and back. This setup worked great last winter, reducing my electric
bill considerably.

  This summer, my electric water heater had to be replaced and like always,
the inlet, outlet, drain valve, as well as the pop valve are never in the
same location on the new tank as it was on the old. Not wanting to plumb the
system again with copper (knowing a few years down the road) I will have to
do it all over again, I thought I would connect PEX from the copper I have
in place overhead in the floor joyste to the electric water heater, thinking
that PEX would be more flexable and when the next time I have to replace a
water heater, the hook-up would be easier. I bought the crimping tool,
copper crimp rings, the fittings I needed and 100 feet of 3/4 inch PEX
tubing. From examining this PEX tubing I know that it is not as flexable as
even soft copper of the same size.

  All that having been said... Did I purchase the wrong type PEX? Without
installing elbows / 90 degree fittings, is there a way to accomplish a
substancial bend in this type PEX (perhaps type C). perhaps using a heat
gun? Or would heating the PEX enough to accomplish my goal diminish the
integrity of the PEX tubing?

  Thanks :)

  However,

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] roof damage

2010-08-05 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Jennifer,

Although you do not want to call a professional and get your husband all
worked up, not doing so may lead to additional problems etc down the road.
Roof problems are nothing to put off as they do not go away on their own. If
it were me I would contact  a couple of different roofers and compare what
they say. Most will do an inspection and estimate for no charge, at least
they do in the area I live.

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson
  Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 2010 11:04 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] roof damage



  Good Morning,

  I need some input on the condition of my roof and what my next step should
  be. There is a hole in the ceiling of an upstairs bedroom that is from a
  water leak. I have been up on a short ladder and checked this part out for
  myself. It is about the size of a salad plate. I know I have to stop the
  water from coming in, but I am afraid to get up on the second story roof
to
  investigate. Both afraid of falling, and of doing more damage to the roof
  as I know nothing about roofing.

  My mother looks up into this hole and goes on about being able to see the
  sky. Her answer to the problem is that I must get some man to fix it, so
  she is not very helpful as a source for more sighted details.

  My husband has a theory about this leak that I am not certain about. I may
  have mentioned that home repair is not his forte? Anyway, he insists that
  the light my mother is seeing is coming through the vent. He is referring
  to the round vent things that have a fan in them for ventilation. He
claims
  that the water is coming in through the vent and is normal. He tells me
  that the other fan has a plastic pan under it to catch the water and that
  this is why it does not have a similar leek. The water that leeks through
  seems like a lot of water to be expected to just evaporate out of a
  collection pan. My husband is suggesting that we just need to put in some
  more insulation and repair the sheet rock.

  I am willing to get up in the attic and try to access this area to get
more
  information. I am just not certain that any repairs from that side will
  really do any good, or of any safety precautions I need to take.

  Such as perhaps turning off the electricity at the breaker box to avoid
any
  possible live wires? Your input will be greatly appreciated. It will cause
  a fight with my husband if I go ahead and call in a roofer after he has
said
  we do not need one. I am willing to fight with him, but I prefer not to
  whenever possible. I would love for him to be right about this.

  Jennifer\

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney

2010-08-03 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan,

Boy you guys are sure busy with that palace.

Regarding the chimney, I'm sure anything can be done. I know there has been
a fair response to this post but part of the answer may be in cost. How much
would it cost to beef up the floor to support the remainder versus just
taking it out? Also, by only removing part with that cause further
deterioration of the remainder with time? Which room does the chimney go
through on the second floor and what issues would that raise in removing? I
think there is a lot to consider with this type thing. Often it leads to
things not even contemplated up front.
Keep us posted on this.


Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:14 PM
  To: Blind Handyman List
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Supporting a chimney



  We have begun interviewing contractors to remodel our kitchen. One issue
  we have been working around is that there is a chimney running from the
  basement, up through the kitchen, and on up through the second floor and
  roof, obviously. The hot water tank that had been venting through that
  chimney has been moved, so nothing is actually using the chimney any more.

  Our plan is to expose the brick of the chimney, it has been plastered over
  possibly since it was built, 80 years ago. However, the first contractor
  we spoke to asked if we had considered removing that part of the chimney
  to just get it out of the way. I told him that I had thought of it, but
  didn't think it would be possible to remove the middle of a chimney. I
  mean, I assume those things are a tad bit heavy. This contractor implied
  that he could remove the middle of the chimney and still support the upper
  part from the ceiling joists.

  Does this sound realistic?

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue

2010-08-03 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
David,

I had a similar problem one year in which I would start the mower and it
would run about 30 seconds and then stop unless you kept pushing the primer.
I figured there must have been some dirt or something in there as eventually
it righted itself.

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of David Engebretson Jr.
  Sent: Monday, August 02, 2010 10:27 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] mower issue



  My mower stops running after a few minutes of mowing unless I open the
throttle while I prime it with the little rubber bulb on the side of the
carb. This must be a tell tale sign of a specific issue... anyone know what
it is? thermometer? clogged primer? need a new motor?

  thanks,
  david

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

2010-07-29 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
RJ,

Thanks. So to make sure I understand this here is my current and proposed
situation.

I have an old faucet mounded on the bottom row of siding on the outside of
my house. It is threaded on to a standard fitting that was soldered to
standard half inch copper pipe. Fortunately, there is a shut off in the
basement for this run. I want to relocate  this to the back side of the
house as we are getting new siding put on and I want to extend the deck in
conjunction with this project. Of course you can guess that the water outlet
is right where the deck board will bo against the house. Anyway, if I
understand you correctly above I can simply get a new faucet, length of Pex,
and a shark bite fitting? In your case, did the faucet come pre connected to
the length of Pex or does it simply slide on?-Original Message-

thanks,
Al

From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
Behalf Of RJ
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 11:52 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet



  I used pex pipe and shark fittings. The pipe is flexible and the fittings
just slide on. The fittings will work on Pesx, PVC, or copper pipes and the
great part is no cleaner, glue, solder and easy to slide off with a pair of
pliers or a tool that cost less than a buck. The pipe and fittings are rated
at 200 P S I
  - Original Message -
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins
  To: Blindhandyman
  Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 7:39 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

  I think I remember a while ago RJ put an outside faucet in
  and used some type easy connector to do it? Could whoever
  did this, and again, I think it was RJ, describe what you
  purchased to do the job?

  thanks
  Al

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

2010-07-29 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Alan,

Thanks for your thoughts. I have copper running throughout including to
outside.Hoping there are other options other than gluing faucet to Pex as
that part will be in the wall and not easy to fix if a leak occurs.

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Alan Paganelli
  Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 1:11 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet



  I just changed my outside water faucets a few months back. Their made of
  some kind of plastic now and they just glue in place onto Pex pipe. The
job
  took about 5 minutes. We have PVC pipe to the outside faucets. I used a
  hacksaw to cut off the old brass ones, cleaned up the end of the pipe and
  then found my plastic pipe cutter so the other one went even quicker.

  HTH

  Alan

  Please click on: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alanandsuzanne/
  There, you'll find files of my arrangements and performances played on
  the Yamaha Tyros keyboard. I often add files so check back regularly!

  The albums in Technics format formerly on my website are still
  available upon request.

  - Original Message -
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins arobb...@nycap.rr.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 9:52 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

   RJ,
  
   Thanks. So to make sure I understand this here is my current and
proposed
   situation.
  
   I have an old faucet mounded on the bottom row of siding on the outside
of
   my house. It is threaded on to a standard fitting that was soldered to
   standard half inch copper pipe. Fortunately, there is a shut off in the
   basement for this run. I want to relocate this to the back side of the
   house as we are getting new siding put on and I want to extend the deck
in
   conjunction with this project. Of course you can guess that the water
   outlet
   is right where the deck board will bo against the house. Anyway, if I
   understand you correctly above I can simply get a new faucet, length of
   Pex,
   and a shark bite fitting? In your case, did the faucet come pre
connected
   to
   the length of Pex or does it simply slide on?-Original Message-
  
   thanks,
   Al
  
   From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
   Behalf Of RJ
   Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 11:52 AM
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet
  
  
  
   I used pex pipe and shark fittings. The pipe is flexible and the
fittings
   just slide on. The fittings will work on Pesx, PVC, or copper pipes and
   the
   great part is no cleaner, glue, solder and easy to slide off with a pair
   of
   pliers or a tool that cost less than a buck. The pipe and fittings are
   rated
   at 200 P S I
   - Original Message -
   From: Alan  Terrie Robbins
   To: Blindhandyman
   Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 7:39 PM
   Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet
  
   I think I remember a while ago RJ put an outside faucet in
   and used some type easy connector to do it? Could whoever
   did this, and again, I think it was RJ, describe what you
   purchased to do the job?
  
   thanks
   Al
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  
  
  
  
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  
  
   
  
   Send any questions regarding list management to:
   blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
   To listen to the show archives go to link
  
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p
agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
   Or
   ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  
   The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
   http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  
   Visit the archives page at the following address
   http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  
   For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
   list just send a blank message to:
   blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
  
  
  
  



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Outside water faucet

2010-07-28 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
I think I remember a while ago RJ put an outside faucet in
and used some type easy connector to do it? Could whoever
did this, and again, I think it was RJ, describe what you
purchased to do the job?

thanks
Al



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Cement block footings

2010-07-20 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Lenny,

Yes, as they are beginning to get rotten on the bottom. Does this cleat
anchor to the block or just sit? Since the deck is attached to the house,
I'm not too concerned with movement

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
  Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2010 4:27 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cement block footings



  Are you replacing the 4x4s? If so they make a nice metal cleat that you
  screw to the bottom and it sits on the block. I used them on my back porch
  roof supports and have not had any problem in over 30 years.
  - Original Message -
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins arobb...@nycap.rr.com
  To: Blindhandyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2010 4:08 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cement block footings

  I have a small seven by seven deck/porch that is attached to
  the back of my house. We access it via sliding glass doors.
  It was here when we purchased the house in 1985 but my guess
  is it has been there since the house was built in 1975. On
  the one side it is attached to the house via the end joist.
  The other side or side furthest from the house is supported
  by two four by fours, one on each corner. These were never
  sunk into the ground and cemented but rather just set on a
  cement block even with the surface of the ground. My
  question is do they sell any type preformed block say 1 foot
  cube with a pre formed cut out or attachment for a four by
  four?

  thanks
  Al

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
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_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
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  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Basements Again!

2010-07-02 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Claudia,

If it is a finished cement floor what I do in our garage, which is cement
floor, is simply use an old upright vacuum that you would use in the house.
Works well

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Claudia
  Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 3:05 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Basements Again!



  Hi All,

  We have a large unfinished basement; the floors are concrete, and the
walls are cindrblock.
  There is no insulation or drywall in the basement currently!
  We had that all taken out, after we experienced about a foot of water, in
our basement, two years ago.
  What would be the best way to go about keeping the basement floor clean?
We currently use a shop vac to do that, but it takes forever and a day, to
get it done.
  Also, I think I asked about this before, but the basement gets full of
spiders and spider webs, and I hate walking around down there, feeling stuff
hanging over my head!
  What can we do to curb some of this activity, if anything?

  Or, would some of this probelm be eliminated, once we start putting back
new insulation and drywall?
  Thanks.

  Claudia

  Windows Messenger: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
  Skype: claudiadr10

  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
signature database 5245 (20100702) __

  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

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[BlindHandyMan] Clamping system

2010-07-01 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
I am replacing the surface of my 12 by 16 deck with 16 foot
long five quarter by 6 decking. I remember the last time I
did this when getting to the last 3 to 4 foot of each board
it would become necessary to pry the board over to have it
remain tight with the previous one installed. This gets a
bit tricky when you also have to drill a pilot hole and
drive deck screws. Do they make any type expandable clamping
system to assist with this type task? I'm envisioning
something like a threaded rod with some type crank on one
end that could draw the parts together? It would need to be
expandable by adding say additional 4 foot sections as
needed. If they do make something like this I would have
many different type uses for it. Would something like this
be available at Home Depot? What would it be called. Thanks
in advance for all replies

Al



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system

2010-07-01 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan,

Excellent idea, didn't thing of that. I actually have one of them I keep
right on my portable dolly. One question, what did you do about length when
the span exceeded the length of the strap?

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 8:40 AM
  To: Blindhandyman
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system



  Al,

  I just used a ratchet strap when doing the same thing. You have to be
  careful because the hooks on the end of the strap can dig into the deck
  boards, but it worked like a charm.

  A ratchet strap is just a long piece of webbing with a ratcheting
  mechanism that you can use to shorten the length of the webbing. You can
  generate some pretty serious force with one.

  Later.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system

2010-07-01 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
John,

Great point and one I raised the last time I put decking down. What they
told me is that as the wood dries small gaps will form. They were right. I
have up to quarter inch or larger gaps now in the old decking

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of john schwery
  Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 8:53 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system



  Al, I'm not sure that it is a good idea for the
  boards to be touching. Moisture can gather
  between the boards and rot the wood. Others will know better than I.

  earlier, Alan  Terrie Robbins, wrote:
  
  
  I am replacing the surface of my 12 by 16 deck with 16 foot
  long five quarter by 6 decking. I remember the last time I
  did this when getting to the last 3 to 4 foot of each board
  it would become necessary to pry the board over to have it
  remain tight with the previous one installed. This gets a
  bit tricky when you also have to drill a pilot hole and
  drive deck screws. Do they make any type expandable clamping
  system to assist with this type task? I'm envisioning
  something like a threaded rod with some type crank on one
  end that could draw the parts together? It would need to be
  expandable by adding say additional 4 foot sections as
  needed. If they do make something like this I would have
  many different type uses for it. Would something like this
  be available at Home Depot? What would it be called. Thanks
  in advance for all replies
  
  Al
  
  

  John
  Currently in Ocala, Florida Mostly Cloudy, Mist 73°F Wind:Calm
  Bank manager: A jerk who will lend you an
  umbrella when the sun is shining, and ask for it back when it starts to
rain.
  Created by Weather Signature v1.31 • http://www.weathersig.com

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system

2010-07-01 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Bryce,

Possibly, I'm not sure what the name would be

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Brice Mijares
  Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 9:35 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system



  Are you talking about a bar clamp, also called a pony clamp?


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system

2010-07-01 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Jewel,

You bring up an excellent point. With the type decking I'm

using, over time the boards dry and contract leaving a small

gap of an eighth to a quarter inch or better. If I start

with a gap, eventually the gap will be too wide and could

create some other issues

Al

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Jewel
  Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 6:25 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Clamping system



  My decking planks have about a quarter inch gap between each for air
circulation. Unless you seal
  every join, I think that you are running a risk of them rotting as water
can seep down between the
  planks and with them being so tightly packed together, there will be no
chance of them drying out.

  Jewel
  - Original Message



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Deck board screws

2010-06-24 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dale,

Thanks for your suggestions. I did check on some of the screws I did get out
using your suggestions and they are in fact Phillips. Hopefully I'll get
most of them out but thanks to you and others on the list for your
suggestions

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 9:43 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck board screws



  You will be very unlucky indeed if you hit any of the original screw
shafts with your new screw.

  You might check too if the original screws are in fact Philips screws.
they may be the square drive and superior Robertson screws which is why your
Philips driver is stripping them. Generally they get stripped going in but
are fine on the way out if you bear firmly and straight down on them. You
might also want a new driver with sharper and fresh tines to better grab the
old screws.

  - Original Message -
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 8:04 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Deck board screws

  Eric,

  Your idea is one I did think of, however, the only concern I have is if
they
  end up flush with the joist I am going to have to be very careful the new
  hole does not get drilled where the cut off screw is.

  Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Eric
  Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 7:53 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck board screws

  The only good way would be to use a saws all to cut the screws off at the
  joists. Two screws per board at every joist is fine, just sink it a
little.

  Eric

  - Original Message -
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins
  To: Blindhandyman
  Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 6:46 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Deck board screws

  Looking for some opinion before I replace the surface boards
  on our 12 by 16 exterior deck. I will be using the pressure
  treated premium decking which they refer to as a five
  quarter by six. The actual finished width is about 5 and a
  half inches. Anyway after I get done removing the old, which
  I may say is no small task as many of the Phillips screws
  are counter sunk and of course stripped. So one question is
  maybe somebody has some novel ideas on removing them that I
  have not thought of? All ideas welcome. My question on the
  new boards is to minimize cupping over the years do you
  think its over kill to use 3 deck screws per joist rather
  than the way it is now with 2?

  thanks
  Al

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Deck board screws

2010-06-23 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Looking for some opinion before I replace the surface boards
on our 12 by 16 exterior deck. I will be using the pressure
treated premium decking which they refer to as a five
quarter by six. The actual finished width is about 5 and a
half inches. Anyway after I get done removing the old, which
I may say is no small task as many of the Phillips screws
are counter sunk and of course stripped. So one question is
maybe somebody has some novel ideas on removing them that I
have not thought of? All ideas welcome. My question on the
new boards is to minimize cupping over the years do you
think its over kill to use 3 deck screws per joist rather
than the way it is now with 2?

thanks
Al



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Deck board screws

2010-06-23 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Eric,

Your idea is one I did think of, however, the only concern I have is if they
end up flush with the joist I am going to have to be very careful the new
hole does not get drilled where the cut off screw is.

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Eric
  Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 7:53 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Deck board screws



  The only good way would be to use a saws all to cut the screws off at the
joists. Two screws per board at every joist is fine, just sink it a little.

  Eric

  - Original Message -
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins
  To: Blindhandyman
  Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 6:46 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Deck board screws

  Looking for some opinion before I replace the surface boards
  on our 12 by 16 exterior deck. I will be using the pressure
  treated premium decking which they refer to as a five
  quarter by six. The actual finished width is about 5 and a
  half inches. Anyway after I get done removing the old, which
  I may say is no small task as many of the Phillips screws
  are counter sunk and of course stripped. So one question is
  maybe somebody has some novel ideas on removing them that I
  have not thought of? All ideas welcome. My question on the
  new boards is to minimize cupping over the years do you
  think its over kill to use 3 deck screws per joist rather
  than the way it is now with 2?

  thanks
  Al

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Rigid Finish Nail Gun

2010-06-22 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Group,

This is a Finish nail gun @ Home Depot. Anyone have or used
it?

here is some basic info:

This cordless angled finish nailer is the most compact
cordless nailer on the market. Its sleek design makes it
more compact and lighter than the current offerings on the
market. Its power source is a compact 1.5 Amp Hour
Lithium-Ion battery that powers it through up to 500 nails
per charge. This is the finish contractor’s answer to
cordless nailer efficiency and convenience on the jobsite,
and a partner for life because it is covered by the industry
’s only Free Lifetime Service Agreement. Free Part. Free
Service. Free Batteries. For Life.

Powerful Motor – drives up to 2 ½in. finish nails
Bump Fire or Sequential Fire Mode Selection - for selection
between high productivity and precise placement of nails.
Tool-Free Depth Adjustment – consistently drive nails at the
desired depth with accuracy to protect the work surface from
overdriving
Includes Compact 18V Lithium-ion Battery for extended use
and less user fatigue
MFG Brand Name : RIDGID
MFG Model # : R250AF18
MFG Part # : R250AF18

Specifications
Assembled Depth (in.) : 19.68 in
Assembled Height (in.) : 13.77 in
Assembled Width (in.) : 5.31 in
Color/Finish : Orange, Black and Silver
Fastener Length Range : 2.5
Fasteners Used : Nailer
Housing Material : PC / ABS
Item Weight : 10.15 lb
Operating Pressure (psi) : 0
Safety Listing : UL
Strip or Coil : Strip
Tool Weight : 10.55 lb



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jaw Horse

2010-06-21 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan

What was the price @ Loes? Did you stumble on the special by accident or how
did you learn of it?


Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Saturday, June 19, 2010 9:16 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell JawHorse



  I just picked one up today. They were having a special at Lowes, and I
  had a gift card. It has three legs, two in front, and one further back
  along a rail. The top rail holds two clamping jaws. They can open to
  about 24 inches I think. There is a foot peddle that you can use to close
  the jaws of the clamp.

  The jaws extend beyond the legs so that you can hold items by their edge,
  vertically. The picture shows a door being held vertically in place while
  the hinges are positioned on the door jam.

  The claim is that clamping force is 2200 pounds.

  Looks pretty handy.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jaw Horse

2010-06-21 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan,

Thanks for the update. For some reason this message was sitting in my draft
folder since the other day. Have you had a chance to play around with it at
all? How heavy is the rascal?

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Monday, June 21, 2010 9:50 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rockwell Jaw Horse



  Al,

  Just stumbled on the Lowes special. It was $159. I saw it for $159 on a
  couple of web sites, but depending on shipping cost, VS local sales tax, I
  was pretty close to the cheapest I could get. I might have saved less
  than ten bucks had I gone with one of the internet deals, but I figured, I
  was there, it was there, I could walk out with it, and no issues with
  returns if I changed my mind. So, the Jaw Horse is now sitting in my
  basement.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options

2010-06-17 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Looking for some ideas, education, etc on a subject I know
little of. I might be interested in getting a light duty
nail gun for some upcoming projects I'm anticipating. Here
are my questions to start the thread.

Are there 18 volt Ryobi battery options that would dove tail
with my current selection of tools?

Are there electric models or do most run on air? If the
later can one get a small portable compressor that is easy
to operate and move around?

Most of the applications I would be doing involve things
like molding, fence strips on stockade fencing etc. I don't
envision doing framing etc

Al



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options

2010-06-17 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Bob,

Mind sharing what pricey is?

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 6:58 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options



  I've got the 18 volt finish nailer but it is pricey.
  I'm still pondering over the 16 gauge model.
  - Original Message -
  From: Dan Rossi
  To: Blindhandyman
  Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 2:32 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options

  Al,

  My brother-in-law was just telling me that he has mostly given up on his
  air driven nail guns for finishing nails. He has two DeWalt electric guns
  one for 16 gauge and one for 18 gauge.

  If that doesn't work for you, there are definitely small compressors for
  you to use. Mine is about the size of an upright vacuum cleaner.

  Lastly, there are systems where you can use a CO2 cartridge to power a
  nailer. It's kind of the expensive way to go, but I've considered it
  because the compressor is damn noisy, and a bit of a pain in the ass to
  drag out if you just need to shoot a couple of nails.

  I'll also say that if I have the compressor out, I enjoy using the nail
  gun for a lot of stuff. I will often tack pieces together rather than
  clamping them, or tack a straight edge down as a guide.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options

2010-06-17 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Bob,

For the little I would use it that would be too much but thanks for sharing.
This is one reason I went with Ryobi. I've had good luck with them and the
const is much less. I'll have to look into whether they have one. Another
question is how do nails come for guns?

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 7:27 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options



  New it's close to $400 unless you already have the Dewalt batteries. If
you have batteries from other Dewalt tools you can search for the bear tool
only and save 1 to $200.

  - Original Message -
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 7:20 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options

  Bob,

  Mind sharing what pricey is?

  Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 6:58 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options

  I've got the 18 volt finish nailer but it is pricey.
  I'm still pondering over the 16 gauge model.
  - Original Message -
  From: Dan Rossi
  To: Blindhandyman
  Sent: Thursday, June 17, 2010 2:32 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Nail gun options

  Al,

  My brother-in-law was just telling me that he has mostly given up on his
  air driven nail guns for finishing nails. He has two DeWalt electric guns
  one for 16 gauge and one for 18 gauge.

  If that doesn't work for you, there are definitely small compressors for
  you to use. Mine is about the size of an upright vacuum cleaner.

  Lastly, there are systems where you can use a CO2 cartridge to power a
  nailer. It's kind of the expensive way to go, but I've considered it
  because the compressor is damn noisy, and a bit of a pain in the ass to
  drag out if you just need to shoot a couple of nails.

  I'll also say that if I have the compressor out, I enjoy using the nail
  gun for a lot of stuff. I will often tack pieces together rather than
  clamping them, or tack a straight edge down as a guide.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] warranty

2010-06-14 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Brice,

I would totally agree with you. My wife and I have had a similar issue with
warranty coverage on our dishwasher. The extended warranty paid for itself
several times over on it. In my opinion, with the way they make things
today, consideration of the extended warranty on major appliance is worth
thinking about

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Brice Mijares
  Sent: Monday, June 14, 2010 9:34 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] warranty



  Thank God for warranties. About 4 years ago I bought a G E side by side
  refrigerator. About 6 to 9 months after the purchase my ice maker went on
  the blink. So the technician came to the house and fixed it, and while he
  was here He suggested that I buy the 5 year extended warranty which I did.
  Bounce forward about 3 years, which was a couple months ago, Ice maker
went
  on the blink again, so they replaced it. Last week, I open the freezer to
  get something out and noticed it wasn't as frozen as it should be, didn't
  think much of it at the time thinking my wife must have left the door open
a
  bit. Later, tried to dispense some water from the refrigerator and that
  wouldn't work. Push the button for Ice, that worked, so I was perplexed.
  Right then, I say to me self, time to call G E again. So G E was scheduled
  to come out the next morning. Got up the next morning and the refrigerator
  was working fine. When the tech got here I explained to him what had
  occurred over the past day. He pulled the refrigerator out from the wall,
  unscrewed a panel, went to the service truck, came back with a PC board,
put
  it in and everything is working fine again. So, 2 Ice makers later, and a
  new computer board, I'd say it was worth paying for the extended warranty.



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Maytag dish washer repair

2010-06-04 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
 Lenny,

If it's any consolation, my wife and I had a Maytag a few
years back with an extended warranty After about 6-7 service
calls for a myriad of issues they finally let us choose a
new one @ nor charge. We picked a Fridgeidare (sp?) and have
been happy

Al

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Lenny
McHugh
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 11:51 AM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Maytag dish washer repair


Well, Karen did make the right decision. Since the repair is
free and I
would only get $150 on a $530 machine, it is probably best
to get this one
fixed. Then when it dies I would get a different brand. The
one appliance
store that I deal with stopped carrying that brand about 2
years ago. They
had toomany problems with that product line.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational
and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use
BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Check your lumber.

2010-06-01 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan,

I hear you on this one. I usually just call our local lumber yard and have
stuff delivered. Never know what I'm going to get and have had to send some
stuff back in the past. I find this very frustrating to say the least

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 2:12 PM
  To: Blind Handyman List
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Check your lumber.



  I had asked a buddy of mine to give me a hand picking out the lumber for
  the basement stairs, and helping me get it home. I asked him to carefully
  check the boards for integrity, are they straight, are they checked at the
  ends. He assured me that we got some beautiful boards.

  When I cut that first little registration chunk, about 1.5 inches long,
  off the end of one of the 2X10 boards, it literally fell in half, a split
  running right through it. So, I cut another 1.5 inches. It fell in half.
  So, I cut a third 1.5 inches. That one didn't fall in half, but when I
  picked it up and flexed it slightly, it broke in half.

  The fourth chunk wouldn't break in my hands, but I can kind of feel the
  split in it. So, hopefully after six inches of my board are gone, I might
  actually have some usable lumber.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Roots In Water Line

2010-06-01 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Don,

This sounds like a good suggestion, but how would an average homeowner be
able to detect where they had a crack in their sewer line between the house
and street (or if in country septic system)

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Don H
  Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 6:15 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Roots In Water Line



  I am assuming that you are speaking of a sewer line and not a water line.
  Doing the salt thing doesn't help a lot. Copper Sulfate works better if
you
  can find a source for it. The best thing to do is figure out where the
pipe
  is cracked or broken and repair it. I once had a sewer line that had a
very
  small crack in it that allowed a root not much bigger than a pencil lead
  into the pipe. That little root then completely filled a five inch pipe
  completely full of roots for over six feet.

  _

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Steve  Shannon Cook
  Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 5:08 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Roots In Water Line

  Hi All,

  I have a co-worker that had to have some water lines coming in to her home
  repaired because of roots growing in to the water lines. They had a friend
  to tell her that if you pour a box of salt down the drain every month,
this
  will prevent this from happening. Has anyone ever heard of this? Thanks in
  advance!

  Steve  Shannon Cook
  Today I married my best friend.
  The one that I laugh with, live for, love.
  October 11, 2003

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve

2010-05-25 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Just called my local hardware store as I need to pick up a
shut off valve to go in half inch copper line. I believe
what I want is referred to as a gate valve (inside totally
retracts to give full unrestricted flow) correct? I asked if
they had these so I could use the shark bite fittings. They
said they had Pex and it was the same. Since I've read about
both but never used either are these the same or
interchangeable? Is there a special tool I'll need to have
on hand to remove should I want to? Last question: Do you
feel the shark bite or Pex are as reliable as compression
fittings?

thanks
Al



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve

2010-05-25 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dale  Dan,

Thanks to both of you for getting back to me before Terrie gets home and I
go to that damn hardware store. Let me explain what I'm doing and maybe that
will help me better understand the suggestions you guys are making. When I
go away from home I have this thing I am concerned over and that is a water
leak while I'm gone for a week or so. I usually  shut off the main water
valve just below the water meter when we go away. The problem with this is
it is near the floor down behind the washer and it is quite a trick to lay
on the washer and reach that sucker. The main line runs right up behind the
washer and what I figured I'd do is simply cut the line and put an
additional shut off valve in the main line where it is nice  easy to reach.
However, I want one that opens fully like the one before the water meter so
as to not constrict the flow volume in the main line. I usually use
compression fittings when working with copper line and have never had a
problem. However with the newer stuff like shark bite fittings I thought
they may be better. I've never played with Pex or even seen it (unless that
is what the foot long or so things are going from my hot water heater and
connect to the copper pipe) so I don't want to get into something
complicated, I just want to insert a valve and then get onto more projects.
So, with this, what is the suggestion?

thanks
Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 10:44 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve



  Al,

  I think you may want a ball valve. They tend to be a lot more reliable
than gate valves.

  PEX is not the same thing, it is a plastic material. There are methods of
joining it to copper but I am unfamiliar with any of them except by sweating
threaded fittings onto the ends of the pipes to be linked with plastic types
of fitting. I seem to remember that there is a sort of bulbous fitting which
can be put onto the end of a copper pipe and the PEX heated and forced over
the bulb where it cools and contracts and is further secured with a band.
There may also be compression plastic fittings to clamp down over the ends
of the copper certainly there are such fittings for drain lines but I don't
know about pressured water lines.

  - Original Message -
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins
  To: Blindhandyman
  Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 10:09 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve

  Just called my local hardware store as I need to pick up a
  shut off valve to go in half inch copper line. I believe
  what I want is referred to as a gate valve (inside totally
  retracts to give full unrestricted flow) correct? I asked if
  they had these so I could use the shark bite fittings. They
  said they had Pex and it was the same. Since I've read about
  both but never used either are these the same or
  interchangeable? Is there a special tool I'll need to have
  on hand to remove should I want to? Last question: Do you
  feel the shark bite or Pex are as reliable as compression
  fittings?

  thanks
  Al

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve

2010-05-25 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan, Mike,  Dale,

Thanks, it's off to the hardware store later I go to get a ball valve.
Thanks for all the ideas  discussion.


Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 2010 11:45 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shut off valve



  Al,

  I think there are others better qualified to answer your question here,
  but if you are cutting a Copper line, and want to install a shut-off
  valve, I think your options are a regular valve that has to be sweated on,
  a compression fitting, or a shark bite. I don't think that PEX comes into
  play at all here, other than the fact that I think shark bites can do both
  PEX and Copper.

  When you go to the hardware store, just explain it like you did here. You
  are cutting a Copper line, and just installing a shut-off inline.

  I agree with Dale that you want a ball valve. I had most of the valves in
  my basement replaced with ball valves, including one just above the main
  shut-off. I haven't noticed any reduction in flow.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs.

2010-05-24 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan,

Oh the joys of older homes. Always running into this type stuff with
projects. Your tenacity is to be admired

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2010 10:21 PM
  To: Blind Handyman List
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs.



  I finished the basement floor project, including building the trap door to
  access the central drain. The floor ain't pretty, just sheets of O S B,
  but it seems quite sturdy.

  As part of putting down the new floor, I ripped out the basement stairs,
  which had been pretty seriously compromised by termites.

  This weekend I started building the new stairs. Instead of cutting the
  saw tooth stringers, much too tedious, I am just using 2X12s with the
  treads and risers sandwiched between them. A lot simpler, but
  never-the-less, pretty darn hard to cut those angles exactly right. The
  big pain is just making sure the measurements are as exact as you can get.

  Cutting off the ends of the 2X12 to get the angles for the upper and lower
  ends took a while. I can easily calculate that I needed a 43.5 degree
  angle but being able to measure out everything to cut that angle was
  frustrating.

  Being off a 16th doesn't seem like much until you get twelve feet away,
  and suddenly you're an inch off from where you want to be.

  Not to mention that the header I was resting the top of the stringer
  against, was not even close to plumb, so if I wanted the stringer to rest
  nice and flush against it, I had to re-cut it at a completely different
  angle.

  I got the stringers cut and mounted, but had to leave half way through
  today, so one more week without steps I guess.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs.

2010-05-24 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Darrin,

I've had good luck with them too as I used one for 5 steps off my deck

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Darrin Porter
  Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 11:37 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs.



  Dan,

  At Home Depot around here, you can buy those risers already pre-cut. I've
seen them from as short as accommodating only two treads and as long as 14
or 16 feet-enough to reach the second floor of a standard house.

  About fifteen years ago my dad and I built a 1,700 sq. ft. two-story
building, the lower floor of which is a workshop and the upper floor is an
850 sq. ft. apartment. We used those pre-cut risers. The worked out great.
Each tread is composed of two 2X6s. We also used pre-cut ballisters to
support the 5/4 deck plank handrail.

  By the way, this is an exterior set of steps.

  Darrin

  Darrin Porter
  Senior Technical Engineer

  United Ocean Services, L.L.C.
  601 South Harbour Island Boulevard, Suite 230
  Tampa, Florida 33602
  (813) 209-4247 (office)
  (813) 744-0011 (cellular phone)
  (813) 242-4849 (fax)
  darrin.por...@united-mar.commmailto:darrin.por...@united-mar.comm

  
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
On Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2010 10:21 PM
  To: Blind Handyman List
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs.

  I finished the basement floor project, including building the trap door to
  access the central drain. The floor ain't pretty, just sheets of O S B,
  but it seems quite sturdy.

  As part of putting down the new floor, I ripped out the basement stairs,
  which had been pretty seriously compromised by termites.

  This weekend I started building the new stairs. Instead of cutting the
  saw tooth stringers, much too tedious, I am just using 2X12s with the
  treads and risers sandwiched between them. A lot simpler, but
  never-the-less, pretty darn hard to cut those angles exactly right. The
  big pain is just making sure the measurements are as exact as you can get.

  Cutting off the ends of the 2X12 to get the angles for the upper and lower
  ends took a while. I can easily calculate that I needed a 43.5 degree
  angle but being able to measure out everything to cut that angle was
  frustrating.

  Being off a 16th doesn't seem like much until you get twelve feet away,
  and suddenly you're an inch off from where you want to be.

  Not to mention that the header I was resting the top of the stringer
  against, was not even close to plumb, so if I wanted the stringer to rest
  nice and flush against it, I had to re-cut it at a completely different
  angle.

  I got the stringers cut and mounted, but had to leave half way through
  today, so one more week without steps I guess.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edumailto:dr25%40andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  
  Attention: This email and any accompanying attachments constitute
confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you have received
this email communication in error, please notify the sender immediately and
delete the message and any attachments from your system.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs.

2010-05-24 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan,

This sounds like a neat idea Dale had but also sounds like a lot more work
and tinkering. Probably if time is not a premium I would consider but that
has to take a lot of time doing all the setup  dadoing. Personally I'd go
with the precut stringer or your idea of a two by four and then nail or
screw to that. I don't see where the dadoing thing would be stronger.
Granted it may look better or more professional but again it is the trade
off with time. Just my two cents

al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Monday, May 24, 2010 11:45 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Building stairs.



  Dale,

  Interesting. I hadn't thought about dadoing the treads and risers into
  the stringers. I was just going to screw pieces of 2X4 to the stringers
  and screw or nail the treads down to the 2X4s.

  How deep would you dado? Quarter inch? Half inch?

  I wasn't certain about the wedging. Do you mean you cut the dado just a
  bit longer than the length of the tread and then wedge behind the tread?

  So, if you are doing blind dados, and using a three quarter straight bit,
  don't you end up with funky ends to the dado that you have to clean up?

  How do you physically attach the treads to the stringers? Or don't you?

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Freaking termites.

2010-05-03 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan,

Sounds like doing this project turned out in a positive direction simply
from a safety perspective. Who knows how long it would have been until
someone fell down through one of those compromised treads? You are right,
those termites can do a lot of damage.

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 9:55 AM
  To: Blind Handyman List
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Freakin termites.



  Over the weekend, I finally ripped down the basement stairs as part of the
  basement finishing project. I will build new steps once I finish the
  floor. I knew that the stairs were pretty badly compromised by termite
  damage, it was visibly obvious. However, when I ripped down the stairs it
  was pretty horrifying to see just how bad the damage was.

  Firstly, the stringers for the steps had been put in place before the
  cement floor was poured, so that is how the termites got access. The
  stringers went right through to the dirt. I expected to have to dig out
  some old wood from these holes before patching with cement. Well, the
  termites had taken care of that for me. I literally just vacuumed out the
  dust, there were no pieces of wood at all.

  Several of the treads I was able to just lift off since the wood around
  the nails had been completely eaten away.

  A couple of the treads broke in half as I pried them off. The treads had
  been seriously compromised as well.

  After I had removed about four or five treads, the lower part of the one
  stringer just fell off the wall.

  The wood of that stringer was just layers of paper and dust. What I mean
  is that the termites ate parts of the wood, but not others, so it made
  this weird layering effect. You could actually flick through the 2 by 12
  like it was a deck of cards or the pages of a book.

  Absolutely amazing to see the extent of the damage these little insects
  can cause.

  Not termite related, but the upper end of the outer stringer was also
  pretty scary to see. It only overlapped the surrounding joists by about
  half or three quarters of an inch. There were several nails driven in at
  crazy angles, some of them barely catching wood in both connecting pieces.

  Anyway, I cemented in the holes in the floor. laid down the last two
  joists, but since I need to cut the larger sheets outside, and it was
  raining, I didn't get any further than that.

  Hopefully, the floor will be done next weekend and I can start on the
  stairs.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks

2010-04-23 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Lenny,

I remember when my mother-in-law was in a nursing home and theft by other
residents and/or staff was a concern, a locked cabinet or box worked well.
She kept the key on her person (around neck or wrist) and this seemed to
thwart off most theft. Sad to think of but it does happen

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
  Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 11:14 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks



  Yes, also I saw one that actually had 10 buttons that you had to push in.
  That one was very expensive.
  - Original Message -
  From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 9:18 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks

  The button kind? Just to be sure, I'm talking about the kind that have 4
or
  5 levers that you slide and they click as you move them.
  - Original Message -
  From: Lenny McHugh
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 9:14 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks

  Bob, when I did a search for it there were more sites showing how to pick
  it.
  - Original Message -
  From: Bob Kennedy inthes...@att.net
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 9:10 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks

  And they are actually pretty easy to pick. I have a couple of them and
  when
  I forgot the combination it took me about 3 minutes to open it.

  - Original Message -
  From: Dan Rossi
  To: handyman-blind
  Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2010 8:06 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] button padlocks

  I use a lever pad lock on my locker. It is pretty easy to use, and very
  easy to set. I've noticed that after a couple of years, it does get very
  finicky and tends not to want to lock again. You get what you pay for.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
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_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
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  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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  Send any questions regarding list management to:
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  To listen to the show archives go to link
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_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
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  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
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  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] a question of tires

2010-04-23 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Or just take it to a garage and pay them a few bucks to dismount the tire

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 7:34 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] a question of tyres



  You need to remove the valve stem to do any kind of breaking down of the
tire. To get the rim out of a tire, you have to break the bead around the
rim. Usually a machine is used to apply a lot of pressure on the side of the
tire while turning it under a roller.

  You can do this without a machine, but you will need some tools first.
There are spoons which are pry bars with the end rolled over. The end
hooks under the rim and then you push down forcing the bead away from the
rim. You need a few of these spoons and as soon as you get one in place and
while pushing down on the tire, you insert a 2nd spoon and do the same
thing. Eventually as you work around the tire, you will break the bead away
from the rim.

  Unfortunately, after one side is done, you flip it over and do it again.
Finally, each bead has to be forced over the rim so it is free from the
center of the tire.

  I used to change race car tires this way and don't envy you. I had a
sledge hammer to help break the bead, but it is pretty dangerous. Too far
from the rim and the tire would bounce it back at you. Hit the rim and you
damage it and sting your hands real good.

  - Original Message -
  From: Carl
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com ; blind-garde...@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Friday, April 23, 2010 3:36 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] a question of tyres

  i hav some tyres that i'm goeing to use to gro potatos but 2 of them still
hav the wheals in the center how can i remove the wheals?
  i'm in the north east of the uk
  you can get me on skype with carlf16 or email carl...@googlemail.com

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] hybrid water heaters

2010-04-11 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
And what do they cost relative to a gas or electric unit?

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Shane Hecker
  Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 11:54 PM
  To: blindhandy...@yahoogroups. com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] hybrid water heaters



  Has anyone seen the hybrid water heaters? If so, what do you think of
them?
  If you have one, how do you like it. For those who don't know, the hybrid
  water heaters use a combination of a heat pump and electric elements to
heat
  the water. This is supposed to result in significant savings, making it
  cheaper to run than a natural gas unit.

  Shane.



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] tapcon screws

2010-04-09 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
And I may add pretty expensive too

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 10:37 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tapcon screws



  Brice,

  These are tap con that is t,a,p,c,o,n screws, not tapping screws. They
  look like a regular screw, although the threads look a bit different.
  They are specially designed to hold in cement or brick. Just drill a
  hole, and twist them in. No shields, no nuts, just screw them in. They
  hold quite well.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] tapcon screws

2010-04-09 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
When I bought my Tapcon screws @ our local lumber yard, they told me they
only came in one diameter. They had different lengths and for the size I got
I needed a 3/16th drill bit

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 11:07 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tapcon screws



  On Fri, 9 Apr 2010, Brice Mijares wrote:

   Dan, so, do you you drill a hole with a masonry bit, lets say a quarter
of
   and inch, then run in the tap con screw that's 5/16 to 3/8 of an inch?

  Precisely. Most of the time, the right sized bit comes with the screws,
  sometimes it just tells you the correct size bit. The tolerances are
  pretty tight, I think 1/32 to 1/16 difference between the bit size and the
  screw size, depending on the size of the screw.

   - Original Message -
   From: Dan Rossi d...@andrew.cmu.edu
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 7:36 AM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tapcon screws
  
  
   Brice,
  
   These are tap con that is t,a,p,c,o,n screws, not tapping screws. They
   look like a regular screw, although the threads look a bit different.
   They are specially designed to hold in cement or brick. Just drill a
   hole, and twist them in. No shields, no nuts, just screw them in. They
   hold quite well.
  
   --
   Blue skies.
   Dan Rossi
   Carnegie Mellon University.
   E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
   Tel: (412) 268-9081
  
  
  
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   Send any questions regarding list management to:
   blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
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http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p
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   Or
   ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  
   The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
   http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  
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Various List Members At The Following address:
   http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
  
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   If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
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list just send a blank message to:
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  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] tapcon screws

2010-04-08 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Lenny,

I use tapcon screws with a cordless drill all the time. Just
need to make sure you drill the hole deeper than the screw

al

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Lenny
McHugh
Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 6:28 PM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] tapcon screws


I was told by a guy at the hardware section that you can
only use tapcon
with a hammer drill. Is this correct? I have a 1/4 inch
corded and a 3/8
inch rechargeable.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational
and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use
BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] orientification

2010-04-01 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Just a quick question, what does O.S.B. stand for?

thanks
Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of clifford
  Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 9:55 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] orientification



  Dear Dan:
  We always put O. S. B. down, with the long sides crossing at right angles,
the joists. The short sides were broken on the center of a joist and screwed
at one foot intervals.

  Yours Truly,

  Clifford Wilson

  Ps. By the way, I prefer the O. S. B. as a sub-floor.
  - Original Message -
  From: Dan Rossi
  To: Blind Handyman List
  Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2010 5:03 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] orientification

  Does it matter which way you lay down OSB board on the floor joists?

  Does the long edge have to run parallel to the joists, or doesn't it
  matter? I laid out the joists with the idea that the short edges would
  run parallel to the joists, but before I start screwing things down, I
  want to make sure I don't screw them up.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Vita Mix

2010-04-01 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Jim,

Here you go. That's great the one you got  has a lifetime warranty. I just
ordered the 5200 model and it came with a 7 year parts  service warranty.
Let me know how you make out.

www.vitamix.com


  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of jim
  Sent: Thursday, April 01, 2010 11:36 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Vita Mix



  hi does anyone have the address or web site for vita mix?
  i have one of there blenders from the early 70s and they say it has a life
time garentee on them so i would like to get it worked over.
  i wonder if they still are all metal construction?
  this thing is built like a tank
  in Minnesota

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] panel carrier.

2010-03-31 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan,

Go get em tiger! You will certainly get your workout today. Let us know how
you make out

al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 9:20 PM
  To: Blind Handyman List
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] panel carrier.



  I finally found a sheet good carrier, or panel carrier, at Harbor Freight.
  It was 5 bucks, made of metal, and put together backwards. The handle
  bends over the channel at the bottom rather than away from it. Luckily,
  it was just held together with a couple of screws, so I was able to turn
  the handle around.

  I will probably use a piece of one inch tubular webbing looped over my
  shoulder and hanging down my side so that I can hook the handle of the
  carrier through it, and thus carry the weight on my shoulder.

  Tomorrow morning, 12 sheets of 3/4 inch OSB, 42 studs, a few 2X6s and
  three 4X4s will be arriving at the bottom of my stairs. Should be a busy
  morning of hauling.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Vita Mix

2010-03-30 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Thanks to all who responded to my inquiry. I did order the Vita mix but get
a free in home trial of 30 days. How does the Health Master compare in
customer support and warranty?

thanks
Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Andrew J. LaPointe
  Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 8:13 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Vita Mix



  If you want a vita mix, check out the Health Master, it is like the Vita
Mix
  but much much cheaper. They can be purchased at Bed Bath and Beyond for
  $200.00 I paid $450.00 for my Vita Mix.. Andy

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Eugene Baroni
  Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 8:09 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Vita Mix

  I have a vitamix. The blades are not sharp at all. It is made that way on
  purpose. It is a powerful machine and works well.
  - Original Message -
  From: Spiro
  To: Blindhandyman
  Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 11:36 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Vita Mix

  I have a quisineard (spelling) and it's like a blender with changible
  blades. Watch out, they are sharp.

  On Mon, 29 Mar 2010, Alan  Terrie Robbins wrote:

   I have been considering getting a Vita Mix machine (kind of
   like a blender, or food processor) for the kitchen.
   Wondering if anyone on this list has or has had one and how
   blind friendly the units are?
  
   thanks
   Al
  
  

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view
_p
  agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
  Or
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  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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  address for more information:
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Vita Mix

2010-03-30 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Scott,

Thanks for the update. Vita Mix is recommending the 5200
series for household use. It currently sells for $459.00I
have seen other models on Amazon  E Bay. I don't think you
can get the free in home 30 day trial from the store.

Al

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Scott
Howell
Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 12:03 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Vita Mix


I believe the Vitimix can be had for about $300 from Costco.
Check around, I did not pay that much for mine, I think it
was a little over $300 or $350. Of course I got mine over 10
years ago and it is still just as good as new. Whatever you
get, just make sure it meets your needs, that is more
important than which brand/model.
On Mar 30, 2010, at 8:13 AM, Andrew J. LaPointe wrote:

 If you want a vita mix, check out the Health Master, it is
like the Vita Mix
 but much much cheaper. They can be purchased at Bed Bath
and Beyond for
 $200.00 I paid $450.00 for my Vita Mix.. Andy

 -Original Message-
 From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Eugene
Baroni
 Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 8:09 AM
 To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Vita Mix

 I have a vitamix. The blades are not sharp at all. It is
made that way on
 purpose. It is a powerful machine and works well.
 - Original Message -
 From: Spiro
 To: Blindhandyman
 Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 11:36 PM
 Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Vita Mix

 I have a quisineard (spelling) and it's like a blender
with changible
 blades. Watch out, they are sharp.

 On Mon, 29 Mar 2010, Alan  Terrie Robbins wrote:

  I have been considering getting a Vita Mix machine (kind
of
  like a blender, or food processor) for the kitchen.
  Wondering if anyone on this list has or has had one and
how
  blind friendly the units are?
 
  thanks
  Al
 
 

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 

 Send any questions regarding list management to:
 blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
 To listen to the show archives go to link

http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAG
E_user_op=view_p
 agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
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 ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

 The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
 http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

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Contributions From Various
 List Members At The Following address:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

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 If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit
the following
 address for more information:
 http://www.jaws-users.com/
 For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the
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 blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links





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E_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
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[BlindHandyMan] Vita Mix

2010-03-29 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
I have been considering getting a Vita Mix machine (kind of
like a blender, or food processor) for the kitchen.
Wondering if anyone on this list has or has had one and how
blind friendly the units are?

thanks
Al



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

2010-03-26 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Jennifer,

You raise some good points. Newer dishwashers don't require dishes to be
that clean or rinsed off prior to going into the dishwasher. What I
generally do is put the dirty dishes in the side of the sink that has the
garbage disposal hooked up to it.. I then just use my hand to wipe off any
major pieces of food etc left on the dishes and then put the items in the
dishwasher. All come out very clean and sanitized.

Al -Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
Behalf Of Jennifer Jackson
Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 9:16 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal



  You will also have to calculate in the environmental costs of
manufacturing the dishwasher and the impact of post use disposal if you want
an accurate environmental comparison.

  As a blind person I find that I have to touch the dishes to make certain
they are cleaned off enough to go in the dishwasher anyway, so I just ad a
little soap to the sink water and then just rinse in my dishwasher. Perhaps
if I ever have a better quality dishwasher this will not be a problem. I am
interested in the experiences of others with this.

  Jen
  - Original Message -
  From: Dan Rossi
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 5:52 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

  Well, a dish washer heats water pretty hot, but uses less of it. When you
  wash dishes by hand, you are still using hot water, not as hot as a dish
  washer, but more of it, so I think it might be, (you guessed it), a wash,
  although with the benefit of using less water.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[BlindHandyMan] Router bit life

2010-03-26 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Since using routers in my remodeled workshop is fairly new
to me, I have a question. Can router bits be sharpened as
can drill bits or does one simply discard them when dull,
etc. Approximately what type usable life do they have? I
realize part of the answer to this depends on how much one
uses it. For example, today I put an edge on 3 sides of 4 1
by 12's I had made some shelves out of. Using this as an
example, any idea how many shelves I could do like this
before the bit needed to be replaced?

thanks
Al



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Studly Do-Right

2010-03-25 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan,

Given you are covering the wall with plywood first, my opinion is 24 inch on
center is fine

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 8:23 AM
  To: Blind Handyman List
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Studly Do-Right



  When I build the wall separating my finished basement room from the shop,
  I am attempting some sound dampening strategies. From talking with a guy
  who built a studio in his basement, aside from making sure there are
  absolutely no air passages through the wall, the main consideration is
  mass-air-mass. Heavy walls, separated by an air gap.

  I intend on using a 2X6 footer and header, with offset studs so there is
  no bridging between the two wall surfaces. My question is, do I put the
  studs for each wall surface 16 inches on center? Or can I put them 24
  inches on center?

  The shop wall surface will be 3/4 inch plywood so that I can hang shelves
  on it. So, I think the plywood will be stiff enough to be supported on 24
  inch centers.

  However, the finished room wall surface will be 5/8 dry wall. Is 24
  inches on center enough support for the dry wall or does it need to be 16
  inches on center?

  Thanks.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

2010-03-25 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Tom,

However, from an ecological point of view, a dishwasher actually uses less
water than washing by hand.

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Tom Hodges
  Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 4:37 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal



  I don't have a garbage disposal. When I moved into this house, 12 years
  ago, there wasn't a disposal and I've never put one and don't really miss
  it. I don't have a dish washer either, well, other than me, that is. Don't
  miss having an automatic dishwasher either.

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
  Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 9:10 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

  Blane, do you mine me asking where your from? In my adult life, I've only
  live in one place where there was no garbage disposal, and that was in an
  apartment. Someone on the list made a comet yesterday that garbage
  disposals were becoming a thing of the past.. I beg to differ. Tell a
woman
  your taking her garbage disposal away. It's to damn convenient for all.
  Peeling potatoes and the likes into the sink and washing them down the
  disposal is to easy. Beats peeling them over the indoors garbage
container.
  Besides that, cuts down the odor where you store your trash cans. And if
  one decides to start a comp pile, beware of the rank odor they make.

  - Original Message -
  From: Blaine Deutscher b.m.deutsc...@sasktel.net
  mailto:b.m.deutscher%40sasktel.net 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  
  Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 7:55 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

   The only time that I saw one in a ho house they had installed a second
   draine, or it looked like a drain. I also used the comertial ones for
   large
   kitchens. Not my best friend when someone accidently sticks those pot
   scrubbers in one and when you turn it on, water also turned on with it
   that's how fancy it was, it sprayed all over me. quite a shock when
you're
   in a kitchen and not expecting it. so you have to install one where the
   draine goes then? Not a lot of friends have one. Might consider it later
   on
   in life when maried and have a family.
   Blaine
   - Original Message -
   From: Brice Mijares
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com

   Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 8:41 AM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal
  
  
  
   Are you serious, Believe me, I'm in no way trying to make fun of you not
   knowing what or how a garbage disposal works. But if your serious, it's
a
   device that is mounted under the sink. Instead of throwing table scraps
in
   your garbage can, you rinse the scraps off your plate on the sink side
   where
   the disposal is located . Turn the water on and flip the switch and the
   table scraps are ground up and sent down the sewage pipe.
   - Original Message -
   From: Blaine Deutscher b.m.deutsc...@sasktel.net
  mailto:b.m.deutscher%40sasktel.net 
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
   Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 6:24 AM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal
  
   how do these things work? I've seen some where they're in the sink but
   how
   do they work? Do you have to put them in the sink?
   Blaine
   - Original Message -
   From: Brice Mijares
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 7:01 PM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal
  
  
  
   After reading your last message, 30 years, yes, I'd say a new one is in
   order. Matter a fact, you'll be lucky to find a company that will
   guarantee one more than 10 years. I just bought one here this past
   December
   at Lows, it cost me just over a hundred dollars, half horse, and only 5
   year
   warranty. There was a brand at Orchard Supply that I bought at our last
   home that I bought, it was called the Bone Crusher. 3 quarter horse, 10
   year warranty, and at the time it was around $80. That was back in
2000.
   Good luck.
   - Original Message -
   From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press braill...@hawaii.rr.com
  mailto:brailleit%40hawaii.rr.com 
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
   Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 5:01 PM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal
  
   Unfortunately yes.
   Betsy
   At 01:58 PM 3/23/2010, you wrote:
  
  
  Did you try turning it counter clock wise? Providing the motor turns
  clock
  wise, turning that direction would draw whatever is stuck in there
  deeper.
  Going counter clock wise would back it out, or at least free up the
  jammmed
  section .
  
  __ Information from ESET 

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

2010-03-25 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dale, I'm just going by what the research shows. They are very efficient

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 6:26 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal



  That sounds like rationalization to me.

  Even if it uses less water though there is the high temperature required
and the energy used to operate the dish washer always assuming you don't use
the heat drier function.

  If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie
  - Original Message -
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 6:05 PM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

  Tom,

  However, from an ecological point of view, a dishwasher actually uses less
  water than washing by hand.

  Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Tom Hodges
  Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 4:37 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

  I don't have a garbage disposal. When I moved into this house, 12 years
  ago, there wasn't a disposal and I've never put one and don't really miss
  it. I don't have a dish washer either, well, other than me, that is. Don't
  miss having an automatic dishwasher either.

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Brice Mijares
  Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 9:10 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

  Blane, do you mine me asking where your from? In my adult life, I've only
  live in one place where there was no garbage disposal, and that was in an
  apartment. Someone on the list made a comet yesterday that garbage
  disposals were becoming a thing of the past.. I beg to differ. Tell a
  woman
  your taking her garbage disposal away. It's to damn convenient for all.
  Peeling potatoes and the likes into the sink and washing them down the
  disposal is to easy. Beats peeling them over the indoors garbage
  container.
  Besides that, cuts down the odor where you store your trash cans. And if
  one decides to start a comp pile, beware of the rank odor they make.

  - Original Message -
  From: Blaine Deutscher b.m.deutsc...@sasktel.net
  mailto:b.m.deutscher%40sasktel.net 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  
  Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 7:55 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

   The only time that I saw one in a ho house they had installed a second
   draine, or it looked like a drain. I also used the comertial ones for
   large
   kitchens. Not my best friend when someone accidently sticks those pot
   scrubbers in one and when you turn it on, water also turned on with it
   that's how fancy it was, it sprayed all over me. quite a shock when
  you're
   in a kitchen and not expecting it. so you have to install one where the
   draine goes then? Not a lot of friends have one. Might consider it later
   on
   in life when maried and have a family.
   Blaine
   - Original Message -
   From: Brice Mijares
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com

   Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 8:41 AM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal
  
  
  
   Are you serious, Believe me, I'm in no way trying to make fun of you not
   knowing what or how a garbage disposal works. But if your serious, it's
  a
   device that is mounted under the sink. Instead of throwing table scraps
  in
   your garbage can, you rinse the scraps off your plate on the sink side
   where
   the disposal is located . Turn the water on and flip the switch and the
   table scraps are ground up and sent down the sewage pipe.
   - Original Message -
   From: Blaine Deutscher b.m.deutsc...@sasktel.net
  mailto:b.m.deutscher%40sasktel.net 
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com 
   Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 6:24 AM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal
  
   how do these things work? I've seen some where they're in the sink but
   how
   do they work? Do you have to put them in the sink?
   Blaine
   - Original Message -
   From: Brice Mijares
   To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 7:01 PM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal
  
  
  
   After reading your last message, 30 years, yes, I'd say a new one is in
   order. Matter a fact, you'll be lucky to find a company that will
   guarantee one more than 10 years. I just bought one here this past
   December
   at Lows, it cost me just over a hundred dollars, half horse, and only 5
   year
   warranty. There was a brand at Orchard Supply that I bought at our last
   home that I

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

2010-03-24 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Blaine,

They mount to the underneath of the sink with a special collar that
protrudes down through the drain. The drain plumbing then connects to the
garbage disposal. You do need an electrical supply near the disposal to tap
into for power.

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Blaine Deutscher
  Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 9:24 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal



  how do these things work? I've seen some where they're in the sink but how
  do they work? Do you have to put them in the sink?
  Blaine
  - Original Message -
  From: Brice Mijares
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 7:01 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

  After reading your last message, 30 years, yes, I'd say a new one is in
  order. Matter a fact, you'll be lucky to find a company that will
  guarantee one more than 10 years. I just bought one here this past
December
  at Lows, it cost me just over a hundred dollars, half horse, and only 5
year
  warranty. There was a brand at Orchard Supply that I bought at our last
  home that I bought, it was called the Bone Crusher. 3 quarter horse, 10
  year warranty, and at the time it was around $80. That was back in 2000.
  Good luck.
  - Original Message -
  From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press braill...@hawaii.rr.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 5:01 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

  Unfortunately yes.
  Betsy
  At 01:58 PM 3/23/2010, you wrote:
  
  
  Did you try turning it counter clock wise? Providing the motor turns
clock
  wise, turning that direction would draw whatever is stuck in there
deeper.
  Going counter clock wise would back it out, or at least free up the
jammmed
  section .
  
  __ Information from ESET Smart Security,
  version of virus signature database 4969 (20100323) __
  
  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
  
  http://www.eset.comhttp://www.eset.com
  
  

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
signature
  database 4969 (20100323) __

  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

  http://www.eset.com

  __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus
signature
  database 4969 (20100323) __

  The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

  http://www.eset.com

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Ambutek graphite canes?

2010-03-23 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dale,

Sounds just like the one I have What have you used previously?

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 8:34 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Ambutek graphite canes?



  I have just received two of what are supposed to be Ambutek graphite
folding canes. I have never met such equipment before now and hope someone
on the list knows more about them than I.

  These appear to me to be metallic although the outer coating might well be
something like graphite. The insertion points are very certainly metal,
probably aluminum.

  Is this correct or did someone put the wrong equipment in the parcel?

  Thanks.

  If I was Han Solo I'd probably pet my wookie

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

2010-03-23 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Betsy,

My vote at this point is to simply replace the unit. Is this something you
feel comfortable doing? If not, let us know and maybe a bunch of us can come
over (smile)

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Betsy Whitney, Dolphin
Press
  Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 8:00 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal



  Aloha Ron,
  I thought exactly what you're saying. Yesterday
  we got a flashlight and a mirror trying to see
  what might be in there. I'm not afraid of putting
  my hand in there and I even ran my finger nail
  around the very edge to see if I could find something. No joy.

  I think the poor thing may be 30 years old. It's
  a Kenmore and I thought about calling someone,
  but that will cost me more than a new one.
  Please feel free to send more suggestions.
  Betsy
  At 01:27 PM 3/23/2010, you wrote:
  
  
  Most likely you have a chunk of dish cloth or
  sponge lodged in the cutters. It could be stuck
  bearings, but doubtful. Feel down inside the
  disposal around the edge and see, no pun
  intended, if you can find something of the cloth
  or may be some plastic like off of some
  packaging . Feel real good it may be hard to
  find. As long as the switch is off this is safe.
  If it is the plug in style unplug also if that will make you feel safer.
  You likely will need some pliers to pull out
  what you can to free up the disposal.
  Ron
  - Original Message -
  From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 7:37 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal
  
  Aloha all,
  I did get hold of a wrench to turn the disposal
  from the bottom and it does turn but it almost
  takes 3 men and a baby to move it. It didn't get
  any easier after turning it several times.
  
  RJ, where would I put the socket to turn it from the top?
  Betsy
  At 12:48 PM 3/22/2010, you wrote:
   
   
   Get a socket wrench and turn it from the top.
   
   - Original Message -
   From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
   To:
  
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.
comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 23:33
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal
   
   There doesn't seem to be anything caught in
   anything. The hatchet-head looking things turn
   freely. I'll get a wrench tomorrow to see if I can turn it from the
bottom.
   Betsy
   At 06:24 AM 3/21/2010, you wrote:


Hi,

Those blades are to turn without resistant. They
direct the food into the cutters. I would bet
you will have to loosen the material that is
caught in the cutters. U can use a wrench that
came with the unit or use a socket that fits the
nut inside the unit. by placing it in the
insides of the unit. I believe the nut should be turned clockwise.
RJ

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

2010-03-23 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Betsy,

Sounds good, keep us posted. BTW, are you ever in the VIP Blindhandyman chat
room that was setup awhile ago?

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Betsy Whitney, Dolphin
Press
  Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 8:15 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal



  I think I'm not comfortable doing it, and scarier
  than that, HWKE (he who knows everything) will
  think he should do it. I probably can scare him
  by reminding him that electricity is involved. I
  suggested that he unplug the unit before messing
  with it, and he said there was nowhere to unplug
  it. Poor dear, he really wants to be the Mr. fix
  it guy. I did not suggest that he follow the cord
  to the outlet. Did I say that he is sighted?

  We are going to get our sheet vinyl installed by
  the same contractor who installed our kitchen
  cabinets and counter, so I think I'll let him do it.
  However, it would be much more fun to let you
  guys do it... Not sure I can afford the beer bill though.
  Betsy

  At 02:06 PM 3/23/2010, you wrote:
  
  
  Betsy,
  
  My vote at this point is to simply replace the unit. Is this something
you
  feel comfortable doing? If not, let us know and maybe a bunch of us can
come
  over (smile)
  
  Al
  -Original Message-
  From:
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Betsy Whitney, Dolphin
  Press
  Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 8:00 PM
  To: mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal
  
  Aloha Ron,
  I thought exactly what you're saying. Yesterday
  we got a flashlight and a mirror trying to see
  what might be in there. I'm not afraid of putting
  my hand in there and I even ran my finger nail
  around the very edge to see if I could find something. No joy.
  
  I think the poor thing may be 30 years old. It's
  a Kenmore and I thought about calling someone,
  but that will cost me more than a new one.
  Please feel free to send more suggestions.
  Betsy
  At 01:27 PM 3/23/2010, you wrote:
   
   
   Most likely you have a chunk of dish cloth or
   sponge lodged in the cutters. It could be stuck
   bearings, but doubtful. Feel down inside the
   disposal around the edge and see, no pun
   intended, if you can find something of the cloth
   or may be some plastic like off of some
   packaging . Feel real good it may be hard to
   find. As long as the switch is off this is safe.
   If it is the plug in style unplug also if that will make you feel
safer.
   You likely will need some pliers to pull out
   what you can to free up the disposal.
   Ron
   - Original Message -
   From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
   To:
  
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.
comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
   Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 7:37 PM
   Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal
   
   Aloha all,
   I did get hold of a wrench to turn the disposal
   from the bottom and it does turn but it almost
   takes 3 men and a baby to move it. It didn't get
   any easier after turning it several times.
   
   RJ, where would I put the socket to turn it from the top?
   Betsy
   At 12:48 PM 3/22/2010, you wrote:


Get a socket wrench and turn it from the top.

- Original Message -
From: Betsy Whitney, Dolphin Press
To:
   
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogrou
ps.
  commailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 23:33
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

There doesn't seem to be anything caught in
anything. The hatchet-head looking things turn
freely. I'll get a wrench tomorrow to see if I can turn it from the
  bottom.
Betsy
At 06:24 AM 3/21/2010, you wrote:
 
 
 Hi,
 
 Those blades are to turn without resistant. They
 direct the food into the cutters. I would bet
 you will have to loosen the material that is
 caught in the cutters. U can use a wrench that
 came with the unit or use a socket that fits the
 nut inside the unit. by placing it in the
 insides of the unit. I believe the nut should be turned clockwise.
 RJ
 
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal

2010-03-20 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Betsy,

Yes, it is a large Allen wrench. I just checked mine under the sink. Another
thing I've done in the past is use a regular flat tip screwdriver. If you
have a few around give it a try. Once inserted use a pair of pliers or
something to turn it back  forth

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Betsy Whitney, Dolphin
Press
  Sent: Saturday, March 20, 2010 4:41 PM
  To: blindhandyman-yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Garbage disposal



  Aloha everyone,
  You know, I wanted to replace the garbage disposal when we did the
  kitchen, but I lost that one.

  Today the unit only hums when I turn it on. I remembered that I had
  taped the wrench to insert at the bottom to turn it on the inside of
  the old cabinet and for got all about it. So, now I have no tool to
  turn it. Is it an
  alan wrench? I have a couple but they aren't big enough. The blades
  on the inside turn freely and water drains through. I did press the
  reset button.
  Suggestions? TIA, Betsy
  Teamwork: Together we achieve the extraordinary.



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Roofing question

2010-03-19 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Rick  others,

Thanks to all that responded to my roofing inquiry, it was helpful

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Rick Hume
  Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 7:14 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Roofing question



  Howdy Al,

  Your current shingle layer is not that old. Curling at this stage is most
likely caused by the attic not being sufficiently ventilated. You could
install some vents and that might slow any further deterioration. If the
curling isn't too bad, you could just let it go for now and keep watch on
it. It is unlikely that your insurance or the product warranty will give you
any help. I have a second home in Indiana that has the same problem on both
the house and garage. Unfortunately, the shingles are seriously curled and
will have to be replaced this year. Neither the house or garage have roof
vents. I'll be correcting that when I re-roof them.
  - Original Message -
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins
  To: Blindhandyman
  Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 9:54 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Roofing question

  Our house (raised ranch) was built in 1975. We had a new
  roof put on in 1998. At that time there was only one layer
  of existing shingles and the contractor felt there would be
  no problem in just putting a new layer of standard 20-25
  year asphalt shingles. This Spring, my wife said the
  shingles were looking funny on the front side of the house.
  This is the side facing South an gets lots of sun. Yesterday
  I had a chance to get my ladder out and go up to do a
  cursory inspection to better understand what she was
  bringing to my attention. The shingles are all in intact but
  a lot of them are curling up on the corners of each third of
  the shingle. In many place where they are curling the
  asphalt is flaked off but the under part of the shingle
  remains.

  My questions are these
  1. Would something like I described above constitute some
  warranty coverage on the part of the shingle manufacturer?
  If so, does there guarantee only cover the faulty product or
  include the labor associated with replacing?

  2. Could something like this have been caused by severe
  weather and winds and subsequently be covered by home owners
  insurance?

  3. Is this something to be immediately concerned with or not
  to worry for a few more years.?

  I know the next roof that goes on is going to require
  removing the current two layers and then putting down new
  paper and shingles. From the times I've been in our crawl
  space in the attic I don't believe any of the plywood would
  need to be replaced. Any feedback on the above would be
  greatly appreciated

  Al

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Sheet goods carrier.

2010-03-19 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan,

Any kids in the neighborhood you could toss a few bucks to for some help? I
know this stuff gets bulky  heavy


Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 7:48 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Sheet goods carrier.



  Dale,

  Yes, I am planning on using 3/4 plywood for decking the floor. Those
  suckers are pretty heavy, and hauling them up the stairs should be a bit
  of a task. I will take a long look around at Lowes tomorrow and see what
  I can see.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


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[BlindHandyMan] Roofing question

2010-03-18 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Our house (raised ranch) was built in 1975. We had a new
roof put on in 1998. At that time there was only one layer
of existing shingles and the contractor felt there would be
no problem in just putting a new layer of standard 20-25
year asphalt shingles. This Spring, my wife said the
shingles were looking funny on the front side of the house.
This is the side facing South an gets lots of sun. Yesterday
I had a chance to get my ladder out and go up to do a
cursory inspection to better understand what she was
bringing to my attention. The shingles are all in intact but
a lot of them are curling up on the corners of each third of
the shingle. In many place where they are curling the
asphalt is flaked off but the under part of the shingle
remains.

My questions are these
1. Would something like I described above constitute some
warranty coverage on the part of the shingle manufacturer?
If so, does there guarantee only cover the faulty product or
include the labor associated with replacing?

2. Could something like this have been caused by severe
weather and winds and subsequently be covered by home owners
insurance?

3. Is this something to be immediately concerned with or not
to worry for a few more years.?

I know the next roof that goes on is going to require
removing the current two layers and then putting down new
paper and shingles. From the times I've been in our crawl
space in the attic I don't believe any of the plywood would
need to be replaced. Any feedback on the above would be
greatly appreciated

Al



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Basement floor update.

2010-03-16 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan,

Your explanation to Blaine was helpful for me too in better understanding
your dilemma. I wonder why they felt that amount of pitch was necessary for
drainage? Also, by your excellent description I'm guessing you lost a net of
about 3+ inches for ceiling clearance. Will this present future issues?

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 8:24 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Basement floor update.



  Blaine,

  The issue with my basement, as most folks here are painfully aware, after
  my years of wining about it, is that the cement floor is dramatically
  sloped to a center drain. The basement is only 15 feet wide, and thus, in
  the 7.5 feet from the side wall to the drain, the floor drops a little
  over six inches. I can't put furniture down there with the floor sloping
  so much. It just wouldn't be practical. So, I am building a suspended
  floor arrangement.

  There are three main beams, one at either end, and one in the middle.
  They span the basement from side wall to side wall, and encompass the
  middle third of the length of the basement. Forward of this area will
  eventually be my shop, and aft of this area is the mechanicles, the
  washer, dryer, furnace, water heater, blah blah blah.

  Imagine a 2X4 laying on it's face spanning the basement, it's ends just
  touching the cement floor at the walls. Then, under that is a 2X6 but the
  2X6 is shorter than the 2X4. Then under the 2X6 are blocks of 2X6 and 1X6
  and various other wedges and such so that the beam is nearly solid but
  follows the profile of the cement floor below.

  Then I laid 2X4 joists on their flat faces across the beams. I had to put
  blocks under the 2X4 joists because they really aren't very rigid that
  way.

  Now, as far as the pipes go. basically, I am just hoping to convince any
  water from an over flowing washer or exploded water heater, to go to the
  pipe entrance, rather than just flow under the floor, spreading out and
  wetting more than is necessary. The pipe will just lay under the floor
  and empty at the central drain in the middle of the basement floor.

  The middle beam is actually split at the center and I am building in a
  trap door over the central drain so that I can easily get at it if
  necessary.

  I also installed an external basement door last summer, so I intend on
  putting some drainage line from the door, under the floor to the central
  drain as well. Just in case the door well outside floods and water starts
  seeping in under the door.

  Luckily, the basement isn't all that submerged. Maybe 3.5 feet at the
  front of the house, and less than a foot at the back of the house.

  Oh yeah, there will eventually be walls enclosing this middle third of the
  basement, making a nice additional room in this very tiny house.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] PEX

2010-03-08 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
How much does this Pex stuff cost a foot?

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Monday, March 08, 2010 1:09 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] PEX



  There are others here who have actually done the work with PEX, I have
  just been reading about it, but yes, you can bridge from Copper to Pex so
  can make parcial runs of PEX. For example, I had considered ripping down
  the main section of Copper going from my meter to the far end of the
  basement where everything begins branching. I considered replacing just
  that main section with Pex so I could easily move the line to a more
  convenient location, without having to re-plumb the entire place.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] talking tape measure

2010-03-03 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Darren,

 This is good info to know as I own the Cobolt. What I like the sounds of
with the Vox is it runs on a single AA battery which I have tons of
rechargeables around. My guess would be the AA battery model goes through
batteries even quicker than the 9 volt version?

Al -Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
Behalf Of Darren Brewer
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2010 4:30 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking tape measure



  Hi

  The other talking tape measure is called Vox, and can be found by googling
Vox talking tape. It's pretty similar to the cobolt version in terms of
functionality, but only requires a single AA battery. I have both and find
them invaluable. So long as you use good batteries they are quite accurate.

  Thanks

  Darren.

  - Original Message -
  From: Dan Rossi
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 6:44 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] talking tape measure

  There pretty much is one talking tape measure around these days. It is
  the Cobolt Talking tape measure from www.cobolt.co.uk Several blindness
  sites in the states carry it as well. It's about 95 bucks plus or minus a
  couple of bucks. It is supposedly accurate to 1/16 of an inch, but many
  of us suspect it lies at times.

  It takes a nine volt battery, and eats them pretty readily. When the unit
  starts acting like it is broken, not turning on easily, giving crazy
  measurements, staying out late with it's friends, drinking and smoking, it
  usually means it just needs a fresh battery.

  It will occasionally not shut the hell up, driving you to near insanity
  until you wack it, or yank it's little life blood power supply out.

  It is a pretty useful, although sometimes not as usable as you would like,
  tool.

  There was another talking tape measure out there, but it appears to be
  hard to come by these days. You will know if you have found that other
  one, if it takes double a batteries instead of 9 volts.

  Good luck.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081

  __ NOD32 4910 (20100302) Information __

  This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
  http://www.eset.com

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] talking tape measure

2010-03-02 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Sheryl,

Yes there is and in the past (check the archives) there has been
considerable discussion on this list regarding them. Some folks are happy
with them, some not. I've had mine for 2-3 years and use often with no
problems. I purchased mine at Maxiaids. check out link below

www.maxiaids.com

hope this helps
Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Sheryl Nelson
  Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 1:02 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] talking tape measure



  Aloha from sunny cool Honolulu. Okay cool to us anyway, SMILE.
  Is there such thing as a talking tape measure? If so please tell me
  about brands Etc. If I could find a good one I would like using
  one. Have a great day. Thanks for all the great information
  exchanged. Have a great day. Aloha Sheryl



  


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric snow blower

2010-03-01 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Bill,

I'd like to add just a couple more things to your excellent post. I use a
snow blower when the snow is pretty wet  heavy as well as the plow bank for
our double wide driveway. For our driveway, I usually push snow
systematically into piles and then use the snow blower to remove it from the
driveway. I then go over things again with a push shovel to remove any extra
I missed. Our driveway is usually bare asphalt most of the winter. Although
I don't solicit them, many people compliment my wife and me on how snow free
our sidewalk and driveway stays in the winter. For the 191 feet of public
sidewalk I have (live on a corner lot) I usually start on one side and take
the snow blower ahead maybe 15 or 20 feet. I then back it up and go along
the opposite edge of the sidewalk for the same 15 or 20 feet. I then grab my
shovel which I left in the snow bank at the point I used it last to quickly
clean up any the snow blower missed or left behind due to the walk being
uneven etc. If it is a light snow I usually just shovel for the exercise but
being blind and using a snow blower is doable.

Al Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
Behalf Of Bill Gallik
Sent: Sunday, February 28, 2010 7:53 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric snowblower



  Scott,

  From your question, I'm surmising you don't think a blind person can
operate a gasoline snowblower? Oh contraire my friend, I am the only one
here and even if I weren't I'd still be in charge of clearing the snow with
my 8 HP snowblower.

  Certainly a blind person isn't going to be quite as efficient as a sighted
person probably duplicating effort several times. But I've developed a
system for clearing the snow from the garage area parking and my friends
tell me I do an incredibly good job of it.

  Now the sidewalks are simply a matter of feeling; I can tell when I've
strayed off the sidewalk from the feeling that comes from the snowblower
housing sliding on grass instead of sidewalk concrete. And the deck (when I
decide to pull the machine up there) is very easy to tell.

  I've been known to put an auxiliary hood over my head backwards. This is a
real hoot because passing motorists (at least 1 out of 3) slows down to
rubber neck. I do it on exceptionally cold days and I figure, Why expose
any flesh at all?

  So, my answer to your question is a definite YES, a blind person could
run an electric snowblower!
  
  Holland's Person, Bill
  - Be careful about reading health books. You may die of a misprint.
  - US Humorist, Mark Twain (1835 - 1910)

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] electric heaters

2010-02-25 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Lee,

Yes, I still have one. Not sure of the spelling but believe it is called a
Pelonis.

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Lee A. Stone
  Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 10:52 AM
  To: Blind Handyman
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] electric heaters





  do any of you remember the name of the original small box type of
  electric heater which had a clay disc and a blower built in? I was
  going to look for one with friend but wanted to know the real name as
  there are so many copies being sold. thanks. Lee

  --
  You will be audited by the Internal Revenue Service.


  


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] battery charger

2010-02-06 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Jim,

Wow, I just checked a bunch of batteries and you are absolutely correct. In
all the years I've messed wit both kinds I never picked up on that
difference. Thanks a bunch!

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of jim
  Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 5:45 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] battery charger



  you know i figured out something.
  on all of the nonrechargable batteries i have on the flat end it is not
flat.
  there is a dimple in the center a little dent.
  now on all my rechargeable batteries the end is perfectly flat no dent.
  well maybe a little indented ring around the out side.
  but that's how i tell my rechargables.
  Jim in Minnesota

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Blind Handy Man Room Now Open

2010-02-06 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Ray,

I'm here but don't see you (no pun intended) Be here for a bit

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Ray Boyce
  Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 7:35 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Blind Handy Man Room Now Open



  Hi All

  If you would like to join me over on VIP Conduit in the blind handy man
room
  it is now open.

  Come on in please and tell me what you have been up to around your home.

  Ray

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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Zip Car.

2010-02-03 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Tom,

I think you raise some excellent points. I guess each person or couple need
to decide what is important and make decisions accordingly. I do think being
without a vehicle is much easier if you live in a large metropolitan area.
Where my wife and I reside it could be doable but would involve as you
point out much waiting and some inconvenience on friends etc. If you have a
modestly priced vehicle the costs are not exorbitant. Bottom line is
whatever decision a family makes it comes with some cost

Al -Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
Behalf Of Tom Hodges
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2010 8:32 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Zip Car.



  For us, life is too short to be spending it without a vehicle. My wife
  would be gone two hours longer each day if she had to find other
  transportation to go to and from work. Also, waiting for a cab around here
  can take an hour or so going and the same returning. I'd rather pay the
  cost of vehicle ownership than to waste hour after hour waiting for
  transportation and I certainly wouldn't burden my friends or relatives for
a
  rides. Life is just too short. We have a van so anything we buy, including
  sheets of plywood or drywall can easily be transported in any weather. If
  no one in the house is sighted or can't drive for some other reason,
that's
  another story. But, if someone can drive, why spend valuable time looking
  for and waiting for a way to get somewhere. Do you think we could get a
  half dozen sheets of drywall on a public bus?

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of jim
  Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 10:09 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Zip Car.

  this is funny
  living with out a car is not an option out here were i live12 miles from
the
  nearest town.
  jim in minnesota

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[BlindHandyMan] Time to chat

2010-01-21 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
If anyone is interested in chatting for a bit, I've opened
the blind handyman chat room for awhile

Al



[BlindHandyMan] Chat room

2010-01-20 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Just curious as to how many folks have signed up for that
new chat room@ VIP Conduit? I've dropped by several times
during the last few days but never see anyone there. What
times do you all hang out?

Al



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Chat room

2010-01-20 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
David,

ok, sounds good. Thanks for the info. I have done that but only hung out for
a few minutes. In the future I'll wait longer

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of David Ferrin
  Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 7:35 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Chat room



  Ray opens it up most every afternoon. The fact is anybody can open up any
  room they have access to. So if you have a mind to do it open the thing up
  and people will pop in often enough.
  David Ferrin
  www.jaws-users.com
  Life is what happens after you have already made other plans.
  - Original Message -
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins arobb...@nycap.rr.com
  To: Blindhandyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 6:41 PM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Chat room

  Just curious as to how many folks have signed up for that
  new chat room@ VIP Conduit? I've dropped by several times
  during the last few days but never see anyone there. What
  times do you all hang out?

  Al

  

  Send any questions regarding list management to:
  blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
  To listen to the show archives go to link
  http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view
_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
  Or
  ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

  The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
  http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

  Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various
  List Members At The Following address:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

  Visit the archives page at the following address
  http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/

  If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
  address for more information:
  http://www.jaws-users.com/
  For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
list
  just send a blank message to:
  blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links



  


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[BlindHandyMan] Error installing talk client

2010-01-17 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
I'm all registered with VIP for the new blind handyman chat
room but when I go to install the required talk client, I
get the following error message.

graphic 329  C:\Program Files\VIP Communicator
2\Client\vcomjfw.exe
EInOutError: Invalid filename
Input file name is vcomcfg2.JCF.
Output file name is C:\Documents and Settings\Alan
Robbins\Application Data\Free
dom
Scientific\JAWS\11.0\Settings\VoiceProfiles.INI\vcomcfg2.JCF
.
Press any key to continue.

Anyone experienced this and if so what did you do?

thanks
Al



RE: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors.

2010-01-15 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan,

Thanks, sounds interesting. How did you come about deciding on this
particular model?Terrie and I are going to probably replace the C O 2
detectors we have. They are the kind that plug into the electric outlet.
I've heard they should be replaced every year or two? Do you know anything
about that? What are the recommendations on the new unit you just got?

thanks,
Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 8:18 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors.



  Al,

  I got these units via amazon.com although the twin pack of smoke detectors
  was actually from EAccess, but purchased through amazon.

  The programming was pretty straight forward. There was a little thum
  notch that was actually a drawer pull. Pull that out and put two double a
  batts in. I had trouble figuring out the battery orientation since they
  didn't have the usual spring thing at the negative end. They do go in in
  opposite directions from each other as usual though. You can probably
  figure it out from there.

  You have to hold the test button down until it says programming or
  something, then it will start asking questions and giving options. You
  have to be pretty damn quick on the draw to hit the test button again when
  it says the option you want to select.

  The second, and subsequent alarms get set up slightly differently. You
  put the batteries in, but before closing the drawer, you hold down the
  test button until the other unit beeps, then hit the test button on the
  first unit. Then you can close the battery drawer and go through the
  programming of the second unit.

  I think that's how it worked.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors.

2010-01-14 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan

Around here (upstate New York) folks that live within city limits have
natural gas piped in by our utility provider. However, if you live outside
the city like my parents and sister do, you heat with propane unless you
burn wood, use fuel oil, or heat with electric (not many do this) hope this
helps. Also, what is the model and make of these units you bought? We need
to replace ours and these sound interesting

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 10:07 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors.



  Bob,

  Very good point about the propane. I've read that as well, but forget
  about it, since I've never known anyone to heat with propane. I think
  that is because I've typically lived in cold climates. I think propane
  heat is more common in places where heat is not a necessity. I could be
  wrong there though.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors.

2010-01-14 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan

Thanks for the info on the units.What all is involved in setting these up
and programming? Did you get at a big box outlet like Home Depot or online?

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 9:24 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] wireless bad thing detectors.



  HMM, you learn something every day. I didn't think propane would be a
  good heating source for a hole house. Everywhere I've lived, you either
  heated with natural gas or fuel oil.

  So, when you heat with propane, are the tanks inside the house? I mean,
  doesn't propane have issues if it gets too cold? I mean, doesn't it start
  to have problems vaporizing?

  Anyway, here are the make and models of my alarms.

  First Alert SCO501CN-3ST ONELINK Battery Operated Combination
  Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Alarm with Voice Location $69
  First Alert SA511CN2-3ST ONELINK Wireless Battery Operated Smoke
  Alarm with Voice Location, 2-Pack $89

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


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RE: [BlindHandyMan] new blind handyman chat room

2010-01-13 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
David,

Thanks for doing this, should be nice. Is this a come  go type room or are
there times Ray and others have said they'll meet?

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of David Ferrin
  Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 9:57 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] new blind handyman chat room



  We've just created a chat room on the VIP Conduit site called Blind
Handyman chat thanks to the lobbying efforts of our own Ray Boyce who
approached a couple of us on the board asking for it. It is in the open
section available to guest and supporting members alike. He has been after
such a room for a while now and since he is retired he now has the time to
chat about what he has been doing. We hope that many of you take advantage
of Ray's hard work and come on over to discuss all of the projects you have
done over the years. Personally I look forward to chatting with many of you
on here who I only know by your writing style and or email address.
  David Ferrin
  VIP Conduit board member
  www.jaws-users.com
  Life is what happens after you have already made other plans.

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Rigid insulation and termites.

2010-01-11 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan

So if I understand you correctly, the foam panels will be on the inside,
correct? What is your plan to cover them outside of the fact you want to
inspect behind them? Once we know this we can figure the rest out.

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 9:41 AM
  To: Blind Handyman List
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Rigid insulation and termites.



  I was interested in the comments about rigid foam insulation and termites.
  Since I am refinishing the basement, I will be placing rigid foam
  insulation under the floor and on the wall. We definitely have a termite
  issue in our area. The interior basement stairs are seriously damaged
  from a termite infestation about 15 or more years ago. Two years ago we
  found termite activity again in the basement and had the place treated.
  So, I need to be careful.

  What I found out about foam insulation and termites is mainly that the
  insulation isn't a food for the termites, but they can tunnel through it,
  and it can hide their activity making it more difficult to identify the
  infestation early.

  According to a couple of web sites, building codes, in areas where
  termites are known to be active, require termite barriers if foam
  insulation is used on the exterior of the foundation walls.

  Now here is a question for the crazier of the handymen. Since I am only
  finishing the middle third of my basement, and since, being a town house,
  one of the side walls is actually an interior wall, I really only have
  about 15 feet of exterior wall that I will be insulating. Would I be
  insane to make that wall semi movable? Meaning, maybe hinge the panels so
  that I can do annual inspections behind the wall to check the block for
  signs of water, termites, mold, dot dot dot.

  Would there be any way to do this and still make it look reasonably nice
  on the interior?

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys

2010-01-10 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Bob,

This is an excellent point. My experience with auto, or
computer repair is unless you can duplicate the problem or
there are certain predictable things that happen before it
occurs, more often than not the repair shop can't find out
what's wrong.

Al

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Bob
Kennedy
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 7:30 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys


I wouldn't worry yet.  Sometimes a drop of water hitting the
computer can
cause trouble like this.  I'd mark it up as a freak until it
happens again.
You'll pay a fortune to have someone look at the electrical
system and then
get a big CDP, can't duplicate problem  on the service
order.
- Original Message -
From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net
To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 11:23 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] question for the car guys


 Earlier this evening my wife was driving home. For a few
seconds the
 gauges
 on the car went nuts. The speed odometer went up to 80 and
then back to
 50,
 the gas gauge dropped and the light went on. The temp went
way up and then
 back to normal. It is on a 2003 grand caravan. When all of
the gauges went
 nuts itonly lasted a few seconds. Wondering if this is
because something
 in
 ghe computer or electrical is starting to fail or if some
rf got into the
 system.
 ---
 Please visit my home page; it is motivational,
inspirational and humorous
 with many resources for the blind.
 http://www.lennymchugh.com
 Lenny
 Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use
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 addressing.
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] installed new co2/smoke detector

2010-01-08 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Howard

What I do at times is grab a heavy piece of paper or thin
cardboard and make a template and then use that to drill my
holes

al

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Howard
Traxler
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 11:13 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] installed new co2/smoke
detector


Sounds like a handy tool.  is it home made?  How long is it
and how far apart can the holes be?  I often hang a power
strip on the side of a desk or someting and sometimes guess
right.
Howard
- Original Message -
From: Lenny McHugh lmch...@verizon.net
To: handyman-blind blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 9:11 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] installed new co2/smoke detector


I installed a new co2/smoke detector in the basement. I was
trying to figure
 the best way to measure for the two mounting screws. I
have a divider that I
 forgot about. Looking in the drawer for myrotomatic I
found the divider. So
 I opened it up so the points were centered in the slots.
Drilled the first
 screw hole. Then with the divider was able to locate the
position for the
 second hole. Will have to use that tool more often.
 ---
 Please visit my home page; it is motivational,
inspirational and humorous
 with many resources for the blind.
 http://www.lennymchugh.com
 Lenny
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 addressing.
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Cleaning A Rusty Toilet

2010-01-07 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Bob,

Is that with or without rum?

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Bob Kennedy
  Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 6:46 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cleaning A Rusty Toilet



  Just empty the tank and dump a can of Coke in the tank and let it sit for
a few hours.
  - Original Message -
  From: Bill Gallik
  To: Blind Handyman
  Sent: Thursday, January 07, 2010 7:54 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Cleaning A Rusty Toilet

  No, the toilet itself is not rusted; but the drain holes beneath the rim
are yielding rust particles from the tank (I suppose). What I would like to
do is to flush the rust out of the tank/rim assembly without taking the
components apart. I know there is an acid that can be used to clear out the
rim drain holes of the bowl itself, but can anybody advise me as to whether
or not applying this acid via the tank will damage the flush gasket?
  
  Holland's Person, Bill
  E-Mail: billgal...@centurytel.net
  - The early bird may get the worm, but the second mouse gets the cheese!

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] My toDo list.

2010-01-06 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dan,

You are right, those darn jobs can get in the way (smile)

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dan Rossi
  Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 1:29 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] My toDo list.



  Ah yes, June of what year. That is the question.

  I should get back to work on the basement floor soon. I think I can get
  the 2X4 joistish pieces in place pretty quickly, but cutting all the
  blocking to prop up the joists is going to be kind of tedious. Once that
  is done, I don't expect it will take too long to lay down some rigid foam
  insulation between the joists, and then lay down the 3/4 plywood sheeting.

  Then the walls will go up and I will have to rip out the basement stairs
  and replace them as they are rather damaged from a termite infestation
  from many years ago.

  The insulation in the main walls of the house, I will probably have done
  professionally, but not sure yet.
  Before I do the insulation though, I need to at least run some conduit
  from the basement to the attic, if not actually just do the rewiring
  first.

  The kitchen project is really out there by a couple of years, simply
  because it will be an expensive one. All those new appliances and
  cabinetry can get kind of pricy.

  The hydronic under floor radiant heat idea is just a dream. I read about
  it every now and then, but know that it would end up being a huge job.
  The problem is that I would have to separate the first floor and second
  floor into two zones, and sadly, the pipes are comingled, so a big job to
  separate everything out. So that project will remain a, excuse the pun,
  pipe dream for quite a while.

  I do expect to have the basement done, except for the bathroom, by the
  summer.

  If it weren't for this pesky job, I could have it done a lot sooner.

  --
  Blue skies.
  Dan Rossi
  Carnegie Mellon University.
  E-Mail: d...@andrew.cmu.edu
  Tel: (412) 268-9081


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] toilet supply line exploded

2010-01-05 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Lenny

Better safe than sorry. If you feel it would give you peace
of mind then do it

Al

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Lenny
McHugh
Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 4:33 PM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] toilet supply line exploded


My daughter has a major mess in her home. The toilet supply
line exploded.
It is one of the flex lines and is about ten years old. I
never saw one
explode before. Her dining room had a major rain storm.
there is about two
inches of the supply line blown away It is a good thing that
they were home
when it happened. If it would have happened when they were
at work I don't
think they would have a ceiling to repaint and patch. One of
the drywall
seams actually washed out.
I am wondering if I should replace my flex lines. They are
older than hers.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational
and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use
BCC line when
addressing.
Help stop identity theft.





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RE: [BlindHandyMan] toilet supply line exploded

2010-01-05 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
So what does the manufacturer of these lines say? Does anything have to do
with type or hardness of water?

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Scott Howell
  Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 7:09 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] toilet supply line exploded



  I have been using the brayed hoses and so far and knock on wood, none have
failed.
  On Jan 5, 2010, at 6:49 PM, Bob Kennedy wrote:

   I had the same problem and mine was only a little over 2 years.
  


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] microwave hunting

2010-01-04 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Lenny

Was this a talking model?  Will you be looking for speech in
a new one?

Al

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Lenny
McHugh
Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 1:28 PM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] microwave hunting


Well Karen just tried to use the microwave. It was making
some strange
sounds then stopped.  Now it won't heat. The unit is less
than 3 years old.
Oh, how I hate our throw-away-society. I called one place
and was told that
it would cost more to repair it than you can purchase a new
one. So
microwave hunting we go.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational
and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
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addressing.
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] car windows frosting inside

2010-01-03 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Lenny,

My wife had this problem on a car in the past and I believe
if the air was on recirculate rather than fresh this
happened. Does she have such a control? The other issue
could be a small leak where the fluid passes through the
heater box up under the dash. Just some thoughts

Al

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Lenny
McHugh
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 6:41 PM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] car windows frosting inside


My daughter just purchased a 2004 Corolla to replace the one
that a fire
truck totaled. Her car was parked and the truck was turning
around and
backed into it. Anyway there is a lot of frost inside. any
ideas what could
cause this? I am wondering about the air conditioner pumping
a lot of
moisture inside.
This car has one stupid thing. It has a valet key, however
there is a lever
on the floor to open the trunk.
---
Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational
and humorous
with many resources for the blind.
http://www.lennymchugh.com
Lenny
Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use
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addressing.
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Canister Vac?

2009-12-29 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Lee,

I think that is only for the uprights. In our case, the cannister we got was
kind of a promotional when we bought the upright

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Lee A. Stone
  Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 2009 5:36 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Cannister Vac?




  Maybe I am wrong but as seenon television I thought the owner backed
  that machine totally? willthey not replace your machine with a
  new one? Lee

  On Tue, Dec 29, 2009 at 01:53:16PM -0600, Claudia wrote:
   Hi,
  
   My Oreck Cannister vac is falling apart, and we really love the thing.
The
   shoulder strap has broken off, we had to replace a brush head, the cord
   looks like it's about to fall off, the tubing to the hose is slowly
breaking
   away (it's a plastic material) and I think that's it!
   Can the cord be replaced?
   Or should I count my bvlessings that it's served us well for 7 years,
chock
   it up  consider a new one?
  
  
  
   Claudia
   MSN: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net
  
   Skype: claudiadr2009
  
   Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women,
while
   the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
   our-safe-haven-subscr...@googlegroups.com
   makinghouseworkeasier-subscr...@googlegroups.com
  

  --
  Your aims are high, and you are capable of much.
  .


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

2009-12-28 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Blaine,

You can arrow up to the from portion of the email header and then use your
JAWS cursor to find the individuals email address. Then just copy and paste
into a message. Depending on what email program you are using you can enter
a key command to do this. I'm using Outlook 2000 and that key stroke does
not work for me.

Hope this helps
Al -Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
Behalf Of Blaine Deutscher
Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 11:58 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction



  there is one thing that I see with this lit already. This message I want
to
  go to Ron directly so how do you go about doing that? Since I'm replying
to
  this message feel free to email me that info. b.m.deutsc...@sasktel.net

  Blaine
  - Original Message -
  From: Ron Yearns
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 10:54 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

  The test instruments used may vary some depending on your level of vision,
  if any and your experience with electrical wiring systems of a house. The
  talking multimeter that is available through a couple of places in Canada
is
  probably the best to use. If you have a fair amount of experience and know
  house wiring I have written a method of identifying hot, neutral and
  equipment wires using the voltmeter functions and ohmmeter of such a
meter.
  I'll beglad to email it direct as an attachment, which the list doesn't
  permit. Let me know.
  Ron
  - Original Message -
  From: Blaine Deutscher
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Monday, December 28, 2009 9:41 AM
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Introduction

  Hello there. I wanted to briefly introduce myself. My name is Blaine and I
  live up in Regina Saskatchewan Canada. I took four years of construction
in
  high school building folding tables to sheds. I love fixing things and
would
  love to learn about accessible and safe methods if it is something that I
  haven't done before. The place that I'm moving into has a garage and once
  her stuff is unpacked I'm hoping to have a little area that I can build
  stuff and if I have to go outside to plane something then that's fine. I
  love working with oak the best but cherry wood is also good too. I do now
  have a question. Is there something out there that can be used to identify
  the colours of wireing when putting electrical outlets or wiring something
  into your house?

  Blaine

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Access Ability: Review of the iBill talking banknote identifier

2009-12-18 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Lenny,

Yes, and for $99 it is within reach of most of us

Al

-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Lenny
McHugh
Sent: Friday, December 18, 2009 9:55 AM
To: handyman-blind
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Access Ability: Review of the iBill
talking
banknote identifier


Here is a review of the new talking money identifier. From
this review it
looks like a real winner. The unit that I use is too big to
carry around.

http://accessability.blogspot.com/2009/12/review-of-ibill-ta
lking-banknote.html





Send any questions regarding list management to:
blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAG
E_user_op=view_pagePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions
From Various List Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit
the following address for more information:
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For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the
Blind Handy Man list just send a blank message to:
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Send any questions regarding list management to:
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To listen to the show archives go to link
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Or
ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/

The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday

Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From Various List 
Members At The Following address:
http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/

Visit the archives page at the following address
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If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following address 
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RE: [BlindHandyMan] Insulated Basement?

2009-12-09 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Claudia,

Yes. The cooler and more drafts that are in a basement or crawl space will
make the floors and/or rooms immediately above them feel cooler. In our home
which is a raised ranch with the garage immediately under the bedroom it is
the coolest room in the house. Prior to putting insulated garage doors in it
was very  cool. After we replaced them with Garaga steel insulated doors and
buttoned up other drafts the bedroom was warmer.


Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Claudia
  Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 6:58 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Insulated Basement?



  Hi All,

  Would it be safe to say that, if the basement is not insulated, the main
  floor of the house will become more drafty?
  We had all that work done to our basement, but we have not yet insulated
it;
  there is no dry wall  no insulation! It's just brick walls  concrete
  flors now!

  Claudia
  MSN: cdelreal1...@sbcglobal.net

  Skype: claudiadr2009

  Join either of my groups; the first is for visually-impaired women, while
  the other is for people wishing to discuss homemaking issues.
  our-safe-haven-subscr...@googlegroups.com
  makinghouseworkeasier-subscr...@googlegroups.com



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Universal Remote Recommendations

2009-12-08 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dave,

No experience with that but I did get the Surfboard universal talking remote
and you may want to check that out. Just do a Google search and you'll come
up with descriptions  and vendors

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dave Mitchell
  Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 9:10 AM
  To: blind handyman
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Universal Remote Recommendations



  Greetings: Anybody have experience with entertainment center universal
  remote controllers?

  For my sighted wife and me, I am looking for an all in one unit that would
  handle the TV, DVR, surround sound and a CD/VHS movie player unit.
  I have looked at the Logitech site but their models seem to have quite a
  price range spread.
  And I probably missed some deals on Cyber Monday but hopefully there are
  still some deals to come.
  Thanks for any suggestions. Mitch



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Universal Remote Recommendations

2009-12-08 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Tom

Yes. Each button you push tells you the #, feature, etc. You can also
program it to work with voice command

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Tom Hodges
  Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 10:06 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Universal Remote Recommendations



  Al, never heard of a talking remote. How does it work? Does it tell you
  what each button is?

  Thanks, Tom Hodges

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Alan  Terrie Robbins
  Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 9:37 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Universal Remote Recommendations

  Dave,

  No experience with that but I did get the Surfboard universal talking
remote
  and you may want to check that out. Just do a Google search and you'll
come
  up with descriptions and vendors

  Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com

  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]On Behalf Of Dave Mitchell
  Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 9:10 AM
  To: blind handyman
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Universal Remote Recommendations

  Greetings: Anybody have experience with entertainment center universal
  remote controllers?

  For my sighted wife and me, I am looking for an all in one unit that would
  handle the TV, DVR, surround sound and a CD/VHS movie player unit.
  I have looked at the Logitech site but their models seem to have quite a
  price range spread.
  And I probably missed some deals on Cyber Monday but hopefully there are
  still some deals to come.
  Thanks for any suggestions. Mitch

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Aligning a saw blade when ripping

2009-12-05 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dale,

These set up blocks sound interesting and very useful. Any big box stores
handle such things or do you have an on line vendor. Were these developed
for  blind folks or sighted individuals and we've just found a good use for
them? Approximate cost for a set?

thanks
Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 9:05 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Alining a saw blade when ripping



  You might like to investigate set-up blocks. They are available several
places. One common set has a metal block 1 by 2 by 3 inches, a series of
half inch by 3/4ths, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 and 1/16. This is somewhat limiting but
you could cut yourself some hardwood blocks say 4 6 and 12 inches or what
ever else all to be used in combination.

  I did a lot of work with a folding boxwood carpenters ruler with tacks
installed to make tactile dots, 24 inch, 36 inch and 1 meter used to be
available from RNIB and other vendors. These aren't necessarily easy to use,
blind parallax is way worse than sighted but with practice one can get
pretty Goode.

  For us, the cost of such devices is really a disadvantage. I have seen 24
inch folding carpenters rulers in our hardware store for under three dollars
while paying over thirty dollars for a marked braille one otherwise exactly
identical.

  - Original Message -
  From: Agent086b
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 8:51 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Alining a saw blade when ripping

  Thanks for all this info.
  Only problem I have I can not purchase a rotomatic in Australia. I have
  tried the NFB or something in the US, but they have not replied to my
email.
  So I only have my talking tape measure with all it's querks.
  Max.
   Original Message 
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Alining a saw blade when ripping
  From: john schwery jschw...@embarqmail.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Date: Saturday, 5 December 2009 12:25:06

   With my rotomatic, I have no trouble at all. I
   put one end against the fence and align the blade
   with the fence on the rotomatic.
  
   earlier, Agent086b, wrote:
  
   Hi all,
   the earlier question and answers got me thinking. When ripping I find
it
   hard to measure from the fence to the saw blade accurately.
   What wonderful answers can we get to this one.
   Thanks as always for the help.
   Max.
  
  
   John
  
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  
  
   
  
   Send any questions regarding list management to:
   blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
   To listen to the show archives go to link
  
http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view_p
agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
   Or
   ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  
   The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
   http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  
   Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
Various List Members At The Following address:
   http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
  
   Visit the archives page at the following address
   http://www.mail-archive.com/blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com/
  
   If you would like to join the JAWS Users List, then visit the following
address for more information:
   http://www.jaws-users.com/
   For a complete list of email commands pertaining to the Blind Handy Man
list just send a blank message to:
   blindhandyman-h...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
  
  
  
  

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] Aligning a saw blade when ripping

2009-12-05 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Dale and/or bob,

Having never used these, what are the advantages or applications of the
angled ones?

Al -Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on
Behalf Of Dale Leavens
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 10:16 AM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Aligning a saw blade when ripping



  Lee Valley also sells the angle blocks and also in a nice plastic case. I
think but don't know for sure that they are made by Veritas.

  I have tried labeling the angle blocks with braille attached to the foam
in the case because there are so many of them and I thought it would be
easier to select one without having to count but my Dymo tape doesn't stick
very well to the molded foam.

  My set-up blocks usually live in a drawer in my router table along with a
step gauge one of the kids bought me which is really useful in setting bit
height. The step gauge is only good to eighth increments but mostly that is
about what one needs.

  - Original Message -
  From: Bob Kennedy
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 9:52 AM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Aligning a saw blade when ripping

  I have a set from Woodcraft as well. Their house brand is Wood River and
this is also in a molded plastic box. I gave about $30 for my set. Grizzly
also sells them, and Grizzly has a set of angle blocks as well.
  - Original Message -
  From: Alan  Terrie Robbins
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2009 7:44 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Aligning a saw blade when ripping

  Dale,

  These set up blocks sound interesting and very useful. Any big box stores
  handle such things or do you have an on line vendor. Were these developed
  for blind folks or sighted individuals and we've just found a good use for
  them? Approximate cost for a set?

  thanks
  Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Dale Leavens
  Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 9:05 PM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Alining a saw blade when ripping

  You might like to investigate set-up blocks. They are available several
  places. One common set has a metal block 1 by 2 by 3 inches, a series of
  half inch by 3/4ths, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8 and 1/16. This is somewhat limiting but
  you could cut yourself some hardwood blocks say 4 6 and 12 inches or what
  ever else all to be used in combination.

  I did a lot of work with a folding boxwood carpenters ruler with tacks
  installed to make tactile dots, 24 inch, 36 inch and 1 meter used to be
  available from RNIB and other vendors. These aren't necessarily easy to
use,
  blind parallax is way worse than sighted but with practice one can get
  pretty Goode.

  For us, the cost of such devices is really a disadvantage. I have seen 24
  inch folding carpenters rulers in our hardware store for under three
dollars
  while paying over thirty dollars for a marked braille one otherwise
exactly
  identical.

  - Original Message -
  From: Agent086b
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 8:51 PM
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Alining a saw blade when ripping

  Thanks for all this info.
  Only problem I have I can not purchase a rotomatic in Australia. I have
  tried the NFB or something in the US, but they have not replied to my
  email.
  So I only have my talking tape measure with all it's querks.
  Max.
   Original Message 
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Alining a saw blade when ripping
  From: john schwery jschw...@embarqmail.com
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Date: Saturday, 5 December 2009 12:25:06

   With my rotomatic, I have no trouble at all. I
   put one end against the fence and align the blade
   with the fence on the rotomatic.
  
   earlier, Agent086b, wrote:
  
   Hi all,
   the earlier question and answers got me thinking. When ripping I find
  it
   hard to measure from the fence to the saw blade accurately.
   What wonderful answers can we get to this one.
   Thanks as always for the help.
   Max.
  
  
   John
  
  
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  
  
   
  
   Send any questions regarding list management to:
   blindhandyman-ow...@yahoogroups.com
   To listen to the show archives go to link
  
  http://www.acbradio.org/pweb/index.php?module=pagemasterPAGE_user_op=view
_p
  agePAGE_id=33MMN_position=47:29
   Or
   ftp://ftp.acbradio.org/acbradio-archives/handyman/
  
   The Pod Cast address for the Blind Handy Man Show is.
   http://www.acbradio.org/news/xml/podcast.php?pgm=saturday
  
   Visit The Blind Handy Man Files Page To Review Contributions From
  Various List Members At The Following address:
   http://www.jaws-users.com/JAWS/handyman/
  
   Visit the archives page at the following address
   http

RE: [BlindHandyMan] Aligning a saw blade when ripping

2009-12-04 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Max,

A lot has to do with the width you are talking about. Do you have a couple
of hypothetical measurements you'd be interested in setting and I'll tell
you how I do it on mine.

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Agent086b
  Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 7:54 PM
  To: Handyman
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] Alining a saw blade when ripping



  Hi all,
  the earlier question and answers got me thinking. When ripping I find it
  hard to measure from the fence to the saw blade accurately.
  What wonderful answers can we get to this one.
  Thanks as always for the help.
  Max.


  


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



RE: [BlindHandyMan] TapconR Concrete Screws- Stainless Steel Concrete Screws for fastening to concrete, brick and block

2009-11-30 Thread Alan Terrie Robbins
Tom

Just to clarify, does one need to pre drill a hole in the concrete prior to
using these tapcon screws or just use the auto hammer? My thinking upon
reading all the posts on these, was one drilled a hole and then used a drill
with a Phillips or square bit (depending on the screw head) and put the
screw in?

al

Al
  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]on Behalf Of Tom Hodges
  Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 9:48 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] TapconR Concrete Screws- Stainless Steel
Concrete Screws for fastening to concrete, brick and block



  Lenny, I don't know the name of the special bit because I don't have the
  package anymore. I have never used a plain Phillips bit or a square bit, I
  have only used the combination bit and it works better than any screw I've
  ever used. It isn't for concrete so I wouldn't be using it with a hammer
  drill.

  The bits come in the box of screws, but it is a very short one and can not
  be held by my quick release chuck. But, I buy the longer bit at Lowes and
  they have them hanging on the shelf right next to the boxes of screws and
  they also have them where the rest of the screwdriver bits are sold.

  Regards, Tom H.

  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:blindhandy...@yahoogroups.com]
  On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
  Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 8:59 AM
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] TapconR Concrete Screws- Stainless Steel
  Concrete Screws for fastening to concrete, brick and block

  Tom, The contractor friend that showed them to me uses a hammer drill. He
  told me that it never slips because when it gets tight it will go into
  hammer drilling motion. This will put the screw in with no slipping. Since
I

  have neither I could not test his theory.
  As for the screws with both Phillips and square drive, I had two boxes and
  tossed them out. I destroyed a good Phillips screw driver. one of the
sides
  was sheared off because there is only a very small portion that makes
  contact. Also a square drive bit tended to slip since the square pocket
was
  not deep enough. Where did you locate the combination bit and is there a
  special name for it?
  ---
  Please visit my home page; it is motivational, inspirational and humorous
  with many resources for the blind.
  http://www.lennymchugh.com
  Lenny
  Please Copy and Paste into New Message to pass along. Use BCC line when
  addressing.
  Help stop identity theft.

  - Original Message -
  From: Tom Hodges tomhod...@fuse.net mailto:tomhodges%40fuse.net 
  To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  
  Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 8:48 AM
  Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] TapconR Concrete Screws- Stainless Steel
  Concrete Screws for fastening to concrete, brick and block

  I have used the Tapcon concrete screws quite often and have one big
problem
  with them. The ones with the Phillips head are a problem because the screw
  bit rides up out of the screw when the screw becomes tight in the
predrilled
  hole. I believe they would work a lot better if they had a drive like the
  screws I've been buying at Lowes lately. They are not concrete screws but
  they have a Phillips head with a square drive at the tip. In other words,
  you can use a Phillips bit, a square bit or for the most positive contact
is
  there is a special bit that comes with screws that has both a Phillips bit
  with a square tip on it. With the special bit, the bit never rides up out
  of the screw. For those who are visually impaired, like me, who can't
  always hold the drill exactly perpendicular to the screw, this bit still
  holds. Although these screws are available only in exterior grade, I use
  them exclusively indoors because of the fact that don't allow slippage
with
  the bit.

  Regards, Tom H.

  -Original Message-
  From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com
  [mailto:blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
  mailto:blindhandyman%40yahoogroups.com ]
  On Behalf Of Lenny McHugh
  Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 5:58 PM
  To: handyman-blind
  Subject: [BlindHandyMan] TapconR Concrete Screws- Stainless Steel Concrete
  Screws for fastening to concrete, brick and block

  Al, here is a little more information. I did not see the length choices.
  Probably somewhere else on the site.

  TapconR concrete screws are ideal for use in concrete, brick or block base
  material. The threads of the Tapcons actually cut threads into the base
  material - providing excellent holding values.

  The TapconR concrete screw comes in two diameters - 3/16 and 1/4, and
two
  different head styles- hex washer head and flat counter sunk Phillips.

  The bit to use with each size of TapconR are:

  a.. 3/16 diameter TapconR = 5/32 bit
  b.. 1/4 diameter TapconR = 3/16 bit
  Each TapconR is coated with a Blue ClimasealR 

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