Re: [Chevelle-list] Calif License Plates

[Brad Waller]

I'm not sure, but since they are never used you might have a chance to use
them to register in California.  They are likely worth a lot if so.  I don't
know the rules.  What are the letters?  If they are 1970, they might be too
new.  I found this:
On July 1, 2009, California expanded their YOM program to add 1963-1969
passenger cars, and 1963-1972 pickup trucks. Vehicles manufactured before
1963 are still eligible. The YOM program allows owners of these classic cars
to register old plates that match up with the model year of their vehicle. 

You'll need a year sticker or metal year tab, and the plates must be
matching pairs with "cleared" (not in use) numbers to be eligible - meaning
there is no record on file that the same sequence is in use on another set
of plates (as California sometimes re-issued the same numbers/letters on
different year plates).
 
Search online for "California YOM" and you will find a lot of info out
there.
And read online here: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/forms/reg/reg352.htm 
 
Brad Waller
 
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Larry Williams
Sent: Friday, June 10, 2011 4:12 PM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Calif License Plates
 

A great friend gave me a new set of black and yellow license plates.  They
are still in he original package with Ronald Reagan's signature. Very cool
and absolutely pristine. !  They are 1970 era, but the right color for my
year car. 
 
Does anyone in California have any insight into registering these plates for
my 65?

Larry 

Everyday Is A Saturday
 

Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327

[Brad Waller]

That fits with the HA code 327.  That casting was used from 1964-1967 for
327 engines.  http://chevellestuff.net/qd/block_casting_by_year.htm also
says that these castings came from Tonowanda, which matches the date code.
 
Brad
 
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Barnes, Alex
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2011 4:45 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327
 
Brad thanks for the info, The block casting number is 
3858180
Ill have to look for the date stamp tomorrow.
  _  

From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Brad Waller
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2011 7:34 PM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327
>From ChevelleStuff.net, I found more than one HA code, but no IHA codes.
 
Code Year CID  HP   Trans   Platform/Comments
HA1965   327 250 MT B 
HA1967-68327 275 MT B 
HAH 1966   327 275 MT B,
Holley 
HAR 1966   327 275 MT B,
Rochester 
HB1965   327 300 MT B,
HP 
HB1966-7   327 275 MT B, A.I.R. 
HB1968   327 275 MT B,
HDC 
HA1969   350 300 MT A,
F, X
 
It could be any of the three.  You will want to find the casting number to
see which block it is, and then see if you can find the casting date.  For
tips, see http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.php That site has the best
casting codes, suffix info, and other engine stuff out there for our cars.
Been using it for over ten years. Nasty Z28 has two HA codes:
HA1965   327 4 spd tran. std   275 4
full size/Camaro 
HA1969   350 manual trans  300 4
A F X
 
Check the date for the most accurate estimate of what it was.
 
Brad Waller
 
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Barnes, Alex
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2011 11:44 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327
 
Engine numbers T052IHA, 3858180
Intake 3875954
Heads 3795896
Crank 2680
Guys the only number i cant figure out is the T052IHA, i think from the
story i got its a replacement motor.
I brought it home saturday. Thanks guys for your help. 

 
  _  

From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Chum Nault
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 10:38 AM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327
Alex
That motor came with a carter 4027s, there is one on ebay right now from a
66. I can't find any info on the CFM. The Holley that came on the L79 350HP
was 585 so I'm sure it wouldn't be any more than that. I found a discussion
thread where a guy flow tested them and said they were 582 but take that for
what it is worth.
 
Chum Nault
 
  _  

From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Barnes, Alex
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2011 6:15 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] 66 327
 
Hi guys, Recently bought a 66 327 rpo L30 motor and power glide. Does anyone
know what the cfm of the carb was? Thanks Alex
<>

Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327

[Brad Waller]

>From ChevelleStuff.net, I found more than one HA code, but no IHA codes.
 
Code   Year CID  HP   Trans   Platform/Comments
HA  1965   327 250 MT B 
HA  1967-68327 275 MT B 
HAH   1966   327 275 MT B,
Holley 
HAR   1966   327 275 MT B,
Rochester 
HB  1965   327 300 MT B,
HP 
HB  1966-7   327 275 MT B, A.I.R. 
HB  1968   327 275 MT B,
HDC 
HA  1969   350 300 MT A,
F, X
 
It could be any of the three.  You will want to find the casting number to
see which block it is, and then see if you can find the casting date.  For
tips, see http://www.nastyz28.com/sbchevy/sblock.php That site has the best
casting codes, suffix info, and other engine stuff out there for our cars.
Been using it for over ten years. Nasty Z28 has two HA codes:
HA  1965   327 4 spd tran. std   275 4
full size/Camaro 
HA  1969   350 manual trans  300 4
A F X
 
Check the date for the most accurate estimate of what it was.
 
Brad Waller
 
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Barnes, Alex
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2011 11:44 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327
 
Engine numbers T052IHA, 3858180
Intake 3875954
Heads 3795896
Crank 2680
Guys the only number i cant figure out is the T052IHA, i think from the
story i got its a replacement motor.
I brought it home saturday. Thanks guys for your help. 

 
  _  

From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Chum Nault
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 10:38 AM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 66 327
Alex
That motor came with a carter 4027s, there is one on ebay right now from a
66. I can't find any info on the CFM. The Holley that came on the L79 350HP
was 585 so I'm sure it wouldn't be any more than that. I found a discussion
thread where a guy flow tested them and said they were 582 but take that for
what it is worth.
 
Chum Nault
 
  _  

From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Barnes, Alex
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2011 6:15 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] 66 327
 
Hi guys, Recently bought a 66 327 rpo L30 motor and power glide. Does anyone
know what the cfm of the carb was? Thanks Alex
<>

Re: [Chevelle-list] SB lifter question

[Brad Waller]

Good call on the oil.  Fort us with old cars and anything other than roller
lifters, make sure you buy and oil that is Diesel certified CJ-4 for the
best protection and no need for extra additives.

Brad Waller

> -Original Message-
> From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-
> boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Chum Nault
> Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2011 1:21 PM
> To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] SB lifter question
>
> John
>
> The last year for the 283 was 1967, all small block flat lifters are
> interchangeable, if you are just looking for a stock hydraulic lifter
> any
> 283, 327 lifter will be the same. The 58 specs you looked up must be
> for a
> solid lifter, not hydraulic, as the old 1/4 turn past 0 lash was always
> the
> method for adjusting them.
>
> Be sure to take a good look at the cam surface on the lifters as you
> remove
> them, be sure that there is not a wear mark from the camshaft on the
> lifter
> indicating that the lifter is not rotating. This would tell you it is
> time
> to replace the camshaft also.
>
> We are finding out that our oils today have eliminated a zink additive
> that
> is needed to lubricate our older flat lifter camshafts and we are
> seeing
> failures. Every cam manufacture recommends an additive or a high
> performance
> oil with zink.
>
> Chum Nault
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
> [mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of John Nasta
> Sent: Tuesday, May 24, 2011 2:26 PM
> To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] SB lifter question
>
> Hi everybody,
>
> Unfortunately I have what seems to be a collapsed lifter in my 69 El
> Camino. If I try to adjust it, I can turn it until it stops tapping,
> and then when I try to go the additional quarter turn, it starts
> tapping again.
>
> My question is, does the year of the block matter, or are all SBC
> lifters basically the same? It is a 1958 283 engine block. Most auto
> parts store computers only go back to 1968. What was the last year for
> the 283?
>
> I need to buy my parts and I want to make sure there aren't any
> problems/surprises.
>
> I looked up the 1958 283 engine specs here. It says:
>
> Valve Lift Zero Lash: Intake: .398 Exhaust: .398
>
> http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/628.cfm
>
> Also my parts list is:
>
> intake gasket set
> sillycone
> valve cover gasket set
> oil & filter
> lifter set (may as well change them all)
>
> Am I missing anything?
>
> Thanks,
> John Nasta
>
>
> Thanks
>
>

[Chevelle-list] Radiator

[Brad Waller]

The repro radiator started leaking again.  I did a bubba repair and  
seemed to have stopped it for now with JB Weld.


I can replace it with a similar aftermarket cheapo for about $160, and  
I'm sure all the hoses will work. I also found an Aluminum radiator on  
Amazon for $200 (!) that looks to be closer to stock.


Think the aluminum is a good idea or too much risk for that price?

Brad

Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone there?

[Brad Waller]

I think it is the time of year and decline of email lists.  People like the
forums and "new" things, and the lists have slowed down a lot.
Brad Waller (b...@epage.com)
'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX
 
 
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Dale
Sent: Friday, April 01, 2011 2:42 PM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Anyone there?
 
I wonder if it's just the time of year or this had gone by the wayside since
Al sold TC?  I wouldn't think the sale would be a factor.??
 
Dale




-Original Message-
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Bill Lessenberry
Sent: Thursday, March 31, 2011 7:15 PM
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Anyone there?

I just realized that I haven't seen any activity in months.  Has it 
been that slow or is my server filtering the list again?
BillL

Re: [Chevelle-list] Sanding

[Brad Waller]

I used the 3M discs like these:
http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Clean-Strip-Disc-PRICE/dp/B0002FU45O
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/MP80808370.htm 
 
You can find them in just about any hardware store.
 
It takes off the paint pretty quickly and does not overheat or get gummed up
with paint.  You go through a few of them.
 
Just be careful to only get the metal.  It will scratch your glass.  Ask me
how I know.
Brad Waller (b...@epage.com)
'66 Corvette 
'67 Chevelle 
 
 
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Rick Schaefer
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 11:19 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Sanding
 
  Is a pain in the butt! I'm either doing it wrong or have the wrong
equipment.   It took me 3 hours to sand the clearcoat, paint, primer and
MOST of the factory paint from  ONE of my elky fenders.I don't think it
should take that long.   
 
Used 60/80 grit with theses 2 tools :
http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-4151-6-Inch-Vacuum-Pnuematic/dp/B4X
OT6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8
<http://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-Rand-4151-6-Inch-Vacuum-Pnuematic/dp/B4
XOT6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1291834205&sr=8-1>
&s=industrial&qid=1291834205&sr=8-1   and
http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-7336-6-Inch-Variable-Random/dp/B222YH
I alternated so as to not overwork either and allow the compressor to cool.
BTW compressor is a 60 gallon 5HP Kobalt.
 
 Still need to finish it up,  but the remaining paint/primer was coming off
comparatively easy.   I am using Norton & Mirka paper. 
 
  I also bought a sanding backer for my grinder but it was difficult to keep
from gouging the metal.  
 
  Do I need a 7inch or larger sander? Recommendation on brand?   Coarser
paper needed?
 
  I want to do the entire car and finish it in this lifetime,  Thanx.


-- 
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] FW: New CPR Method....better than previous method we have learned

[Brad Waller]

I read about this recently and asked a nurse about it. She said that people 
were hesitant to do the breathing and that this method gets people to actually 
do CPR. In the case of a trained expert, regular CPR is still better.  But if 
they can get twice as many people actually jumping in and helping, then the new 
method is a success.  You won't see EMTs performing the compression only 
method... 

Brad Waller

On Nov 8, 2010, at 6:14 AM, "Alex LaRue"  wrote:

> Excellent video, only takes a few minutes to view. 
> 
>  
> 
> Alex LaRue
> LaRue Insurance, Inc.(800)303-3518   Fax (866)591-7318
> P O Box 119
> 
> 54 Lincoln Square
> Hodgenville, KY  42748   ACES  4711 
> 
>  
> 
> www.LaRueInsurance.net   www.LaRueClassics.com
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: Jim & Patty Hornback [mailto:shoeboxs...@yahoo.com] 
> Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2010 8:59 PM
> To: undisclosed recipients:
> Subject: Fw: New CPR Methodbetter than previous method we have learned
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> Subject: New CPR Methodbetter than previous method we have learned
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  This is a new CPR technique which is much  simpler.
>  
>  This is a very important video regarding  the latest CPR procedure.   Please 
> watch and forward to your friends and family if you haven't already done so.  
> You never know, a life  may be saved utilizing this new  procedure.
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/2fx8r59 <http://tinyurl.com/2fx8r59>
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
>  
> 
>  

Re: [Chevelle-list] Fuse Block

[Brad Waller]

 Thanks!  That gives me a weekend project and is cheap to boot. I'll 
have to see if I have grease and a new wire wheel for the Dremel to 
polish the contacts...


Brad

On 11/3/2010 7:27 AM, Rick Schaefer wrote:
Before swapping the fuse block, I would take the 2 halves apart and 
see what is going on.I bet that you have corrosion between the 
contacts.   To disassemble the 2 halves,  there is a small bolt (7/16 
or so)  in the middle of the engine side of the firewall that needs to 
be removed.Unless it is broken/split, the block itself doesn't 
go bad,  the wiring & internal connections are what cause problems.


 Also, I think it will be difficult to find someone to sell ONLY the 
fuse block.   They will try to sell the entire harness.   Of course 
that would eliminate any defective wiring.


 I BELIEVE that an original replacement would be easier to deal with 
than an updated version.   The wiring color code will be uniform and 
all connections will be in the same location.What ever you do, 
when reassembling be sure to use plenty of dielectric grease on the 
contacts and in the fuse block voids.   The grease will keep out 
moisture & dirt to prevent future problems.   Good luck with it.


On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 5:44 PM, Brad Waller <mailto:b...@epage.com>> wrote:


I think the fuse block on my ’67 is going bad.

I blow fuses randomly for the brakes, and even when I replace the
fuse the brakes sometimes don’t work. Then they do. Either way,
the turn signals always work. This implies the wiring after the
fuse block has to be pretty good and it is either the fuse block
or the dash wiring.

The reason I suspect the fuse block over the dash wiring is that I
can play with the fuse and the brake lights will start to work or
stop.

Assuming it is the fuse block, am I better off replacing it with a
stock fuse block, or an aftermarket one with modern fuses?

Brad Waller (b...@epage.com <mailto:b...@epage.com>)

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16

'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17




--
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino

[Chevelle-list] Fuse Block

[Brad Waller]

I think the fuse block on my '67 is going bad.  
 
I blow fuses randomly for the brakes, and even when I replace the fuse the
brakes sometimes don't work.  Then they do.  Either way, the turn signals
always work.  This implies the wiring after the fuse block has to be pretty
good and it is either the fuse block or the dash wiring.
 
The reason I suspect the fuse block over the dash wiring is that I can play
with the fuse and the brake lights will start to work or stop.
 
Assuming it is the fuse block, am I better off replacing it with a stock
fuse block, or an aftermarket one with modern fuses?
Brad Waller (b...@epage.com)
'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Spray-on bedliner

[Brad Waller]

There's also Herculiner.  Just be careful when you install it. Check out 
this hilarious thread from a while back:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=18595

Brad

Dale wrote:

Looks good, Mitch.  Mind if I ask the price?  We have something similar here
called GatorHyde and pricing for a "Mid Size" (such as Ranger, Colorado,
etc) is $369 for a short bed under the rail which I would guess would be
about the same size as an El Camino - full size is $399.

Dale

-Original Message-
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Mitch Barrie
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2010 6:51 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Spray-on bedliner

Line-X of Anaheim completed the spray-on bedliner today and the results are
outstanding. The truck beds never looked that good even from the factory,
and after over 40 years of use mine was pretty beat up. The spray-on
bedliner considerably improved the appearance and will of course make the
truck more practical.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/simonov/4619205173/


Mitch
  

Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle Wheels

[Brad Waller]

Found my info! I posted it online! 17x9.5 not 11.
17x9.5" V45 wheels with 5 7/8" backspace by Vintage Wheel Works
That implies 16x8 with close an an inch either way should be ok.  
Closer to zero is better.


Brad

On May 1, 2010, at 8:43 AM, Brad Waller  wrote:

That sounds like it should be ok. I would want to double check, and  
the issue would be the tire rubbing on the wheelwell in turns.


16x8 with zero offset (4" bacskpace) work as I think I have run that  
on my Chevelle. I have 17x11 now but I don't recall the offset/ 
backspace numbers and I'm not home to check.


Brad

On Apr 30, 2010, at 6:32 PM, Rick Schaefer  wrote:

  I googled 2004 Blazer wheels and according to at least one  
source, they have an offset of  neg 20 mm.   I couldn't find an  
offset for chevelle wheels   Dale has a thorough explaination of  
Offset & Backspacing here:   http://www.chevellestuff.com/tech/wheel_offset.htm 
   You might want to read thru it, measure the wheels you have now  
and try to decide.



On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 6:04 PM, Roger Griggs > wrote:
I want to buy some wheels from a 2004 Blazer and put them on my  
1970 Chevelle. They are 16 X 8.  Does anyone think I will have a  
problem with them rubbing or anything?  i saw them in a magazine  
and they look pretty good.  (They're on the Chevelle Magazine for  
Impala Bob's)


Thanks






--
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle Wheels

[Brad Waller]

That sounds like it should be ok. I would want to double check, and  
the issue would be the tire rubbing on the wheelwell in turns.


16x8 with zero offset (4" bacskpace) work as I think I have run that  
on my Chevelle. I have 17x11 now but I don't recall the offset/ 
backspace numbers and I'm not home to check.


Brad

On Apr 30, 2010, at 6:32 PM, Rick Schaefer  wrote:

  I googled 2004 Blazer wheels and according to at least one source,  
they have an offset of  neg 20 mm.   I couldn't find an offset for  
chevelle wheels   Dale has a thorough explaination of Offset &  
Backspacing here:   http://www.chevellestuff.com/tech/ 
wheel_offset.htm   You might want to read thru it, measure the  
wheels you have now and try to decide.



On Fri, Apr 30, 2010 at 6:04 PM, Roger Griggs  
 wrote:
I want to buy some wheels from a 2004 Blazer and put them on my 1970  
Chevelle. They are 16 X 8.  Does anyone think I will have a problem  
with them rubbing or anything?  i saw them in a magazine and they  
look pretty good.  (They're on the Chevelle Magazine for Impala Bob's)


Thanks






--
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] Steering Box Adjustment

[Brad Waller]

From years ago memory you loosen the locknut and hold it in place and  
then tighten the central screw a tiny bit at a time until the free  
play is reduced. Then tighten the outer nut when done.


Brad

On Apr 16, 2010, at 4:16 PM, Larry Williams  
 wrote:


What is the best way to adjust the steering Box?  Does the   screw  
go in or out  to tighten/loosen the adjustment and the play?  It  
seem too hard to turn the steering wheel?

Dennis - did you get yours fixed?

Larry

Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle in mag.

[Brad Waller]

I saw that and thought the name sounded familiar!  Congrats on the  
SEMA Christmas present!


Brad Waller
b...@epage.com

On Dec 29, 2009, at 6:33 AM, Dan Rachlin wrote:

Hey guys, I hope everyone had a great hloiday. I came home from my  
vacation to find a copy of Sema San in my email box and saw that  
they put my car in there. Here is the link:


http://www.semasan.com/main/main.aspx?ID=/content/SEMASANcom/HomePage

Scroll down and click on the link on the bottom right. If anyone is  
interested, you can submit your car to be in there too.


Dan

Re: [Chevelle-list] Restoration photo essay

[Brad Waller]

Hey Mitch!  Good to see you here again.  Been a while.  What's new?  OK,
Enough questions, get back to work on that El Camino!

Brad Waller (b...@epage.com)

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

> -Original Message-
> From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-
> boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Mitch Barrie
> Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 2009 10:11 AM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Restoration photo essay
>
> Last night I got some photos together of the restoration of my 1966 El
> Camino that I started back in 2000.  After about eight years of
> inaction, I am finally getting started with it again.
>
> The photo essay is incomplete since the restoration is still on-going,
> but here's what I have so far:
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/simonov/sets/72157623009816644/
>
>
> Mitch

Re: [Chevelle-list] Brake question

[Brad Waller]

I think it is just a thread sealer. A thread locker would not be  
needed since bleeders seat with pressure, but speed bleeders need to  
seal when unscrewed a turn or few.


Brad

On Nov 24, 2009, at 8:43 AM, Rick Schaefer  wrote:

I am reassembling the calipers on my el camino.   A few years  
ago I installed Speed Bleeders.  Also installed stainless flex  
lines.   Both had  a coating on the threads.  Is it a thread  
lock?   or possibly a  thread sealer?  Or both?   What can I use  
to re-coat the threads  Thanx.


--
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] A different Type of Question

[Brad Waller]

At no extra charge there is no reason not to use Nitrogen.  But even for an 
extra few dollars at the initial fill it is not worth it.
 
Race cars that depend on an extra few tenths of a percent to win can use the 
improved performance it gives.
 
While compressed air has more O2 content (generally 4x as much as the air is 
compressed to about 4 atmospheres), it is the Ozone that causes the most 
problems along with the sun.  I’ve seen many tires rot from the outside that 
look perfect on the inside.  The rubber on the inside is smooth and shiny and 
the outside is gray and cracked.
 
If you plan to store your car with OEM red-line tires, sure add the Nitrogen to 
extend the life of tires you will rarely drive on. If you plan to race your 
car, get the Nitrogen.  But if you have a driver, then you will never ever see 
a difference with Nitrogen over air.
Brad Waller (b...@epage.com)
'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX
 
 
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net 
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of 
66chevelless...@comcast.net
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 10:08 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] A different Type of Question
 
I second what Leo said about Costco.  Just had 4 new Hydroedges installed this 
weekend.  They started using Nitrogen probably 1.5 years ago - no extra charge.
 
-Krister 
- Original Message -
From: "Leo John Costigan" 
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Monday, November 9, 2009 1:49:42 AM GMT -06:00 US/Canada Central
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] A different Type of Question
It’s strange that Costco will top off all tires that they sell for free.
 
It’s been three years now and I have all three cars with tires from Costco and 
never paid extra for the Nitrogen they inflate their tires with.
 
Rotation and re-balance is also free.
 
Costco sells tires for less and gives the Nitrogen free.
 
Dealers are gouging the public.
 
Leo
- Original Message - 
From: tc <mailto:ac72...@optonline.net>  
To: The Chevelle Mailing List <mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net>  
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] A different Type of Question
 
air is 78% Nitrogen
To: dansolo...@msn.com ; The Chevelle Mailing List 
<mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net>  
Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] A different Type of Question
 
I have a 2006 Jeep and notice that periodically my tire sensors state that my 
air pressure is low by 5-6 lbs. Funny thing is each time its' a different tire. 
The GM dealer price for this is $ 69 and they tell me that a few of the local 
stations are charging $100 plus 
 
Rich - 70 SS coupe
 

  _  

To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
From: dansolo...@msn.com
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 14:17:22 +
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] A different Type of Question

My boss has a Mercedes with tire pressure monitors. Was constantly having to 
make additions. The nitrogen was recommended by the dealer and solved the 
problem. If I remember correctly it was pricey. Good ol air works fine for me.
Thanks, Dan
--
Sent using BlackBerry

  _  

From: richard sierra  
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 2009 23:24:35 -0500
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] A different Type of Question
 

 I just purchased a new GMC vehicle and the dealer offered the following new 
package called "Nitro Fill'. The claim is that nitrogen is better than 
compressed air in a tire. They claim that nitrogen is a dry gas and is free of 
moisture. It doesn't deteriorate the rubber and it is lss susceptible to air 
loss with temperature changes.
 
I'd be interested to hear what the "group" thinks about this. Thanks
 
Rich - 70 SS Coupe


 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Pre-1968 Center Link

[Brad Waller]

Damn I wish I read this earlier.  If you still don't have an answer I  
can make a measurement on the car as accurate as I can.


Brad Waller
b...@epage.com

On Oct 18, 2009, at 1:36 PM, dhoesc...@granitecityperformance.com wrote:

I need help finding the dimensions for the center link (drag link)  
used on 1964 to 1967 Chevelles.  Could someone measure these two  
center-to-center distances on the center link for me?


1.) Between the hole for the idler arm and the hole for the gearbox  
pitman arm.

2.) Between the holes for the left and right tie rods

Kind regards,
--Don

[Chevelle-list] '67 Horn Location

[Brad Waller]

For some reason this does not make it out to the list.  Trying for the 3rd
time now.  I took my horns out a while back because one was bad.  Now that I
have the replacements ready, I can't remember exactly how and where they
mount.  The assembly manual does not show enough detail that I can figure
out.  Does anyone have a picture they could send?
Brad Waller (b...@epage.com)
'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

Re: [Chevelle-list] anyone here?

[Brad Waller]

I broke something! I was driving to work and hit the brakes for a stop  
sign. Whoop! Pedal to the floor! Pump, pump, pump! Too late, I'm  
through the intersection already.  Time to see if the emergency brake  
can do a thing... Whoa, barely stopped before a big down hill into a  
very busy street.


Got it towed home and there was no leaking fluid so I'm sure it's the  
master. No time for mail order since I need to drive the car tomorrow,  
so I head down to Kragen.  They have a lifetime warrantee no name  
master for $39!  It took about an hour to bench bleed and ten minutes  
to swap the masters.  The brakes were spongy, but they worked.  Monday  
I bled and flushed the lines with a quart of new fluid and they are  
almost done.  I'm hoping one more bleeding session and they will be  
back to great.


Brad Waller
b...@epage.com

On Sep 9, 2009, at 4:19 PM, Josh Campbell wrote:


Haven't broke anything in awhile so I'm just lurking ;)

Josh Campbell

66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it)
66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel)
87 Monte Carlo SS Sadly sold it guy offered me more than I thought  
it was worth

71 Malibu FOR SALE NEED MORE SPACE IN THE SHOP!
You should never have a battle of wits with morons ... they'll just  
drag you down to their level & beat you with experience.



--- On Wed, 9/9/09, Mike Pell  wrote:

From: Mike Pell 
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] anyone here?
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Date: Wednesday, September 9, 2009, 6:59 PM

I'm here.  Just a quiet week.

Robert Holtzman wrote:

> No messages for several days.
>
>

-- --
  Check out my webpage at http://www.ProStreetCar.com
Hoosier State Chevelle Assoc (http://www.IndianaChevelles.com) #6

[Chevelle-list] Glove Box

[Brad Waller]

The glove box fell out of the car as I walked out of the garage. Guess 
it's time for a new one. Anyone know of any promo codes?


Brad Waller
'67 Chevelle

Re: [Chevelle-list] how to reinstall door lock properly

[Brad Waller]

I've never had one get loose on me, but if the spring steel loses it's
spring then you would need to replace the clip.  Check the lock body as well
in case it is the thing that wore out.  Both should be available in the
aftermarket.  The clips might be available at a regular parts house.  The
locks from any Chevy aftermarket catalog house.

I'd say that you should try to re-install it and see if it is still loose.
If not, maybe the clip just slipped a bit.  If it is loose, see if you can
tell why and replace what you need.

Brad Waller (b...@epage.com)

'66 Corvette
'67 Chevelle

> -Original Message-
> From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] how to reinstall door lock properly
>
> Guys, I need some help.
>
> The lock in the passenger door of my '66 was getting loose and one day
> looked like it was going to fall out on the street.  I removed it for
> fear of losing it.
>
> My questions are, do the oem clips inside get loose over time?  How is
> the best way for me to reinstall the lock so it stays?  It looks so
> redneck without the lock in it.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Jim
> '66 Malibu

Re: [Chevelle-list] Inventory Clearance sale!!! 10% off everything in stock!!

[Brad Waller]

Red,
 
I bet Trevor has been on the list longer than you so maybe you don’t know him. 
I’ve met and bought from him and he does not spam the list with commercial 
posts. 
 
People post 10% promo codes all the time for other vendors. Why not let a 
valued member of this list who also sells Chevelle parts post a sale. I think 
this is the first time in a year (or at least since Summer) that Trevor has 
made any kind of commercial post, so chill out.
 
If anything, your post is worse because it has nothing to do with Chevelles…
Brad Waller (b...@epage.com)
'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 el Cheapos
 
 
From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net 
[mailto:chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of Rich Pruett
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 6:29 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Inventory Clearance sale!!! 10% off everything in 
stock!!
 
Oh, I get it. You're havin' a sale! Big deal.
 
We're havin a yard sale at the house this weekend; 90% off everything in stock.
 
WE HAVE LOADS OF CRAP WE DON'T WANT ANYMORE AND MORE STUFF YOU CAN'T REFUSE.
 
Are we not supposed to advertise on this list??? 
 
Just wonderin'
 
Rich

If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

Red Green

- Original Message -
From: autoobse...@aol.com
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net, autoobsess...@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, May 7, 2009 2:05:16 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Inventory Clearance sale!!! 10% off everything in 
stock!!

Hey Everyone,

Time to rotate our stock!!  So, we're having an Inventory Clearance sale!!!  
10% off everything in stock!!

WE HAVE LOADS OF PARTS AVAILABLE FOR CHEVELLES, EL CAMINOS, NOVAS, IMPALAS, 
MONTE CARLOS, AND MORE!!!

Sincerely,
Trevor
Auto Obsession
805-306-0795
www.AutoObsession

Re: [Chevelle-list] where were all the classics today?

[Brad Waller]

We took my wife's '98 Blazer out today, but I drive my '67 five days a  
week...


Brad Waller
b...@epage.com

On Apr 12, 2009, at 6:30 PM, J. Brady wrote:



I had my '66 out, and expected to see a variety of other classics  
out with it being a nice day AND a holiday, and how many did I see??  
ONE.  And that's if you include seeing the hood of my '66 from the  
driver's seat..


Where was everyone's cars today?


Jim
'66 Malibu

Re: [Chevelle-list] OT got any old arcade games lying around?

[Brad Waller]

Not for sale, but I have an Asteroids in my garage next to the Chevelle. Who
else has one of these in their house/garage?

Brad Waller (b...@epage.com)

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

> -Original Message-
> From: chevelle-list-boun...@chevelles.net [mailto:chevelle-list-
> boun...@chevelles.net] On Behalf Of J. Brady
> Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 5:35 AM
> To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] OT got any old arcade games lying around?
>
> if anyone has any of the old cabinet style games from the 70s on up that
> they would like to get rid of pls let me know via email. Thanks!

Re: [Chevelle-list] 427 or 454?

[Brad Waller]

What are you planning to do with the car? How high do you expect to rev 
the engine regularly?  If it is a street car that will rarely see more 
than 5,000 rpm, then the 454 is the best bet.  A smaller car, or one 
that will see lots of high rpm driving is lots of fun with the motor 
that can rev high, but bottom end torque is what you will love on the 
street.


Brad Waller
'67 Chevelle ex SS396, now 355

Josh Campbell wrote:
Ok guys one of my goofy questions. I am getting to the point where I'm 
going to start ordering everything for my engine for my 66, I have had 
my heart set forever to put a 427 (454 block, 396 crank) in her, but 
recently I have been thinking on the no replacement for displacement 
side. I know that I can get my bottom end in kit form easier if I go 
the 454 route but which would be a better combo? So basically what I'm 
asking is what do you guys think? I have rode in a 427 equiped Camaro 
a few times and it is wicked compared to the 454s I have been 
around. Let me run the rest of my combo by and see what you all think 
too, Barry Grant carb (Speed Demon), Edelbrock Performer RPM intake 
and heads, and all forged bottom end. I'll be running my trusty M22 
behind it all and most likely 3:73 rear gears. I'm shooting to 
eventually take it to the strip and hit 12s, thats all I want, if it 
hits 12.999 I'll be soo happy, because it will mainly hit the shows 
and the streets I have the Monte for the strip. Well anyway let me 
know what you all think. Thanks


/Josh Campbell/
The Body Shop (606) 265-5301
66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it)
66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel)
87 Monte Carlo SS (The modern Chevelle especially when you add the 
right stuff)

71 Malibu (Something new to blow my money on

Re: [Chevelle-list] drive shaft lenght

[Brad Waller]

They definitely had T400s in 1967.  Not sure about all applications, but 
SS396 came with T400, and it was longer than the T350.


Brad

Jerry Greene wrote:
You just educated me on this.   Thannks!   I will also have to pass 
this on to my GM mechanic buddy.  He should have remembered this, but 
I guess it has been 40  years plus and he probably had a "senior 
moment". ha! 
 
(Do you know if they put TH350 and TH400 in 1967?)
 
I am still curious whether the tail shafts were different lengths and 
that was the cause of your problem?
 
  Thanks for the info. 

On Tue, Aug 26, 2008 at 11:47 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> wrote:


Yes there was a short and long shaft TH350.This was done for long
wheel base cars and trucks like the C and K trucks, impala cars,
etc so the driveshaft wouldnt have to be quite as long

The short shaft uses a 6" tail shaft lenght and long shaft has a
9" tail shaft.
 
Also there was no TH350 in 66 chevelles only powerglides,4 speeds

and 3 speeds
 


-- Original message --
From: "Roger Waterhouse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
As far as I know the TH350 came in long and short tailshaft
versions.


*From:* [EMAIL PROTECTED]

[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
]
*Sent:* Monday, August 25, 2008 11:55 PM
*To:* The Chevelle Mailing List
*Subject:* Re: [Chevelle-list] drive shaft lenght

 
Powergilde and th350 as was 4 speed same length

There was no TH 400 in 66
 


-- Original message --
From: "Jerry Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
Is it possible that the driveshafts are different lengths
for a 400 turbo and a 350, and one of them may just be a
400 instead of a 350?  It's just a guess.  I do know that
the yoke is different. 


On Mon, Aug 25, 2008 at 7:44 PM, jimmy brown
<[EMAIL PROTECTED] >
wrote:

hello list! I have a ? about drive shaft lenght, so
here we go i got a drive shaft and turbo 350 trans
from a freind his car was a 66 396 12 bolt posi and
mine is a 66 with a 350 and a 10 bolt non posi and
have been told the drive shaft should fit but it's
about 2 inches too short,one person suggested
possibibly i have the wrong motor mounts,any help
would be great, jimmy b.

Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 60, Issue 33

[Brad Waller]

I don't have it, but I wish I did.  One of these day;s I'll upgrade to  
a mid 3 series posi.  And my daughter at the same ago loved it when I  
spun the tires.  She'd ask me to make them "squeak" so I had to oblige.


Brad Waller
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

On Jul 27, 2008, at 1:25 PM, Dan Mascheck wrote:

I just drive it around with my Grandson, but do drop the hammer  
down, now
and then and he is only three, but loves the squeal of tires! I just  
had a
new 700R4 trany put in by Phoenix and for the tire size I have,  
which is
around 30.5" to 31", to get the maximum benefit out of the overdrive  
with my
tall tires, I need a 3:73 rear end! I was thinking, while they are  
changing
out the gear, I could upgrade the rear to a posi! I'm just curious  
to see

what everyone has or recommends! How many do not run a posi on their
Chevelle??

Dan

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 1:00 PM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 60, Issue 33

Send Chevelle-list mailing list submissions to
chevelle-list@chevelles.net

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific  
than

"Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest..."

Re: [Chevelle-list] black cars

[Brad Waller]

Someone on the VetteNet recently suggested Buffalo Milke

www.buffalomilke.com  



Brad Waller

ROARKE PONCE wrote:
We just found a product that we use now at my bodyshop.  Its made by a 
company called Wizards.  Shine Master I think.  Its only 12:45am 
here...so I am not 100% on the name.  I will double check it in the 
morning and let you know.


We had a 77 Firebird t/a that we just delivered.  It was a candy 
red/pink/blue color (don't ask, my 4 year old daughter dubbed it 
"Clown Car" when she saw it rolled outta the booth).  But anyway, we 
did our final polish with this Wizards stuff.  3 weeks later and 
several washes and no wax on the car at all and no swirl marks or 
anything.  My painter says that it works slick on black.  The shop 
that turned me onto this stuff says it removes swirl marks forever, 
but I have not used it that long yet.


Application is pretty simple if you are capable with a high speed 
buffer.  Just dribble a small amount on the panel, turn your buffer 
speed up and lay into the panel.  Not for cars with inadequate clear 
film build.  I will check with my painter about how it works on single 
stage, if it does...


Hope this helps, I will let you know more in the morning about the 
full name and anything else my painter can think of for ya.


Roarke
72 Chevelle




From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Fri, 18 Jul 2008 03:12:00 -0400
To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] black cars

wondering if anyone has a black car out there and what product they 
use to take out the swirls/fine scratches ??



thanks

Harlan

Re: [Chevelle-list] I've replaced just about everything and....

[Brad Waller]

Just to be clear, can you describe what happens when you turn the key?  When
you say is will not crank, I assume you mean the engine does not spin.
 
Are you saying you turn the key, the starter engages the flywheel, the
engine cranks, and the car does not start?
 
Or is is that the starter spins and makes noise but the engine does not
turn?
 
Or something else?
 

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of tabius barrett
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2008 8:49 AM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] I've replaced just about everything and


Ok here is the latest problem. First let me say that i have replaced the
distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs, ignition module, ignition switch, and
coil, all twice. The issue is that when I drive the car, as long as the car
is hot, it starts up just fine. However, when I allow the car to sit and
cool off for several hours or overnight, the car spins but will not crank.
After trying to crank it a few times, if i let it sit for another several
hours, it will fire right up. Then it cranks fine for a few days then it
starts all over again. I don't know what else to replace. I was just told
yesterday that it may be the "pick-up coil" in the actual distributor.
Driving me crazy. Any thoughts?

tb
71 Chevelle SS 402



 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Weiand intake manifold?

[Brad Waller]

What's the use?  It looks like an old Weiand single plane manifold.  If
you want to build a higher RPM motor on the cheap it could be a good
deal.  For a street engine, it might not be the best choice. It looks
like an early version of the X-celerator that you can buy today for
maybe $135-$150. 

Brad Waller

Pelle Andersson wrote:

  
  
  
  

  


  

  
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to save all these photos at once? Learn how 

  


Online pictures are available
for 30 days 
  

  
   
  
  
  Does anyone of u guys recognise this
manifold?
  Is it worth $35 ?
  What's about it?
  
  
  

  



  
  


Klick to rezise!


  

  
  
  
  B.R. Pelle
  
  
  

  
Get Windows Live Mail to create
your own photo e-mails 
  

  
  



-- 
Brad Waller | VP, Business and Affiliate Development
http://EPage.com/ | http://AdConnect.com | http://AdJungle.com
__
Classified Ad Affiliate Program: http://EPage.com/b/csp.html
Hosted Classifieds and Auctions: http://AdConnect.com
Manage & Sell Your Banner Space: http://AdJungle.com

Re: [Chevelle-list] GMPP crate engines

[Brad Waller]

Do you have any good speed shops in your area?  If so, stop by and chat with
the owner if possible about what you want.  I bet for that same $5K you
could get a 383 or 350 that is just as driveable with more power and maybe
some chrome.  You might not have the warranty, but if they are a good shop
chances are you will not need it.  
 
Way back when I needed an engine for my Chevelle, I was able to get a great
short block from my local shop for about $1,200 that was way better than
anything I could get from a catalog.  It's never needed a warranty, and I
think it's been about 15 years since I put it in. And I've done 1200 mile
road trips with that engine and the only problems I ever had was with the
700R4 transmission on one of them.
 
Any crate engine you get should be able to handle a short road trip of 175
miles unless it is a street/strip engine.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Ziomek
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 6:20 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] GMPP crate engines


Hi Folks, 
 
I was hoping that some folks out here can shed some light on the GMPP crate
engines. I have decided to stick with a 350 for my 70 Clone and want to use
one of the 'turn key' motors with the serpentine systems already installed.
I'm using a small block because after all of the projects that I undertook
since high school (i'm 42 now!) I finally decided that I wanted a project
car that I can actually drive to where ever I want to go without loading up
the trunk with tools and parts, etc...  Plus now that I have been married
for almost 10 years, and the fact that my wife has 3 gear head brothers and
father, I have been put on notice that she will 'need' to drive this thing
on occasion as well considering where that the funds come from the joint
checking account now.. :)
 
Anyways, I am looking at either the 350/355 or the 350/385 'fast burn' with
the Aluminum heads. The specs on the cam's for these motors suggest a
slightly lopey idle which is what I would want. Has anyone installed or know
of anyone who has installed one of these motor's? Are you/they happy? Is the
performance/reliability everything that was expected? The car will have an
M21 along with a 12bolt with 3.73's. The car will also have to make an
annual run of about 175 each way every summer. The small blocks are
available to me for slightly under $5k delivered to my home via the local
Chev dealer. The primary reason I am sticking with the small block is the
price as even the 454/HO when all is said and done will come in closer to
$10k. The small block turn key motors also allow me to re-use the A/C with
the included compressor as well. You only need to change the 'stock' valve
covers, add a fuel line, and your up and running. 
 
So, any and all info, good or bad, etc  would be very much appreciated. I
want to order one of these next week and get it here for the weekend of July
4th, so at least my fellow gear head family members as well as friends can
drool over it at the picnic we throw on the 4th...
 
Thanks for your info on this. I really appreciate it. 
 
John Z from CT. 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Is there really a "high flow water pump?"

[Brad Waller]

As Trooper originally stated, dropping the thermostat temperature will 
not affect overheating one iota. If you have a call that runs cool the 
160 will let it run as cool as 160.  But once it is open it is no 
different than a 180 or a 195 thermostat.  If the car is running hot, 
that all happens at 230+ degrees, long after all the thermostats have 
fully opened.


Other than a high modified car, any car with a working radiator and fan 
with a shroud should not overheat.  If you overheat, it is because the 
engine is not tuned properly or the cooling system is out of whack.


Brad Waller
1967 Chevelle, 180 thermostat

Jim H. Thompson wrote:


I disagree about flex fans, I have used them for thirty years. I have 
had factory blades come off and slice through steel fan shrouds. I 
feel clutch fans cause drag, lose horse power and shorten pump life.


 


Don't get touchy about the 160 thermostat they make them for a reason.

 

A stock set up is great if everything is factory specs.   

 

*From:* [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] *On Behalf Of *Tom Rightler

*Sent:* Saturday, May 31, 2008 11:46 AM
*To:* The Chevelle Mailing List
*Subject:* Re: [Chevelle-list] Is there really a "high flow water pump?"

 

A 160 thermostat won't fix anything.  It's overheating because the 
temp of the coolant is higher than that of the thermostat at all times 
menaing it's staying open and coolant is not staying in the radiator 
to cool down.  There is a such thing as running too cold.  Flex fans 
are junk...period.  They flow LESS air then the RPMs are in the mid 
range.  You should be running a 180-185 thermostat in a 402 along with 
a 19" 7 blade clutch fan and the correct fan shroud.  GM engineered 
this for a reason...it works.  I have a stock cooling system on my 70 
SS 454 and never have overheating problems with it.  Another thing 
that comes into play in this situation that alot of people don't 
realize is the size of the water pump pulley.  Does it have the 
correct one on it?  Another water pump won't fix anything if the 
pulley is the problem.


 


Tom Rightler
MCC Newsletter Editor

- Original Message -

*From:* Trooper <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

*To:* [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ;
The Chevelle Mailing List <mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net>

*Sent:* Saturday, May 31, 2008 9:01 AM

*Subject:* Re: [Chevelle-list] Is there really a "high flow water
pump?"

 


Dropping the temp of your thermostat will not affect an
overheating problem. 


- Original Message -

Re: [Chevelle-list] speedo gear in trans

[Brad Waller]

10 MPH at what speed?  If it says you're doing 20 when you think you are
doing 30, then you need 2/3 the number of teeth.  If it reads 90 when you
think you are doing 100, then you need 9/10 the number.  At least I think it
goes that way and not that you need more teeth...

Either way, you need the ratio that it is off to figure out the right gear.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX 

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 3:21 AM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] speedo gear in trans


Hi guys, just a quick one. If your speedo shows 10 mph less than you are
going do you need a gear with more or less teeth to get it up to the correct
mph?  Thanks again   Steve 

  _  

Stay informed, get connected and more with AOL on your phone
<http://mobile.aol.com/productOverview.jsp?productOverview=aol-mobile-overvi
ew&?&ncid=aolmbd0003000139> . 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Is there really a "high flow water pump?"

[Brad Waller]

Actually, the last part is wrong.  50/50 water/antifreeze is not as
efficient at transfering heat.  It lowers the freeze point and rasies the
boiling point, and it adds required lubrication for the water pump.  Pure
water will cool the car off, but you need to add a lubricant (or additive
that includes a lubricant) if you even want to think about it.  You also
need to be 100% certain that it will nevre freeze.

I have used distilled water plus water wetter quite successfully.  You could
go to a 25/75 solution of antifreeze/water for better heat transfer and
maintain a reasonable freeze protection for most people.  I wouldn't do this
in a northern winter, but we're talking about summer overheating I think.

Look at the chart for Heat Capacity on this page: 
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethylene-glycol-d_146.html
And you will see a significant increase in Heat Capacity for 25% ethylyne
glycol compared to 50/50.  The notes say:

Note! The specific heat capacity of an ethylene glycol based water solution
is less than the specific heat of clean water. For a heat transfer system
the circulated volume must be increased.

In a 50% solution with operational temperatures above 36 oF the specific
heat capacity is decreased with aprox. 20%. The reduced specific heat
capacity must be compensated by circulating more fluid.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Saturday, May 31, 2008 7:12 PM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Is there really a "high flow water pump?"
> 
>  Also if you have an automatic transmission you need a 4 core 
> radiator. Otherwise a 3 core should suffice. I had a 66 in 
> which somone had put in a 2 core radiator, which should have 
> been a 3 core. Made a big difference. Don't forget to use  
> 50/50 antifreeze ratio coolant also. It diffusses heat better 
> than just water out of the radiator.  Gm66
> 
> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> From: "Trooper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,  "The Chevelle Mailing 
> List" 
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Is there really a "high flow water pump?"
> Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 08:01:33 -0500
> 
> Dropping the temp of your thermostat will not affect an 
> overheating problem. 
>   - Original Message - 
>   From: Jim H. Thompson 
>   To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
>   Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 6:53 PM
>   Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Is there really a "high flow 
> water pump?"
> 
> 
>   Test show that if you have the proper capacity radiator 
> that copper vs aluminum is a break even.
> 
>   Go to a 160 thermostat, flush the block, make sure your 
> hoses are not collapsing inside (do not take out that bottom 
> spring). Test the pressure of your radiator cap that's 
> important for your over flow system.  If you have a clutch 
> fan replace with an aluminum flex fan. Make sure your fan 
> blades come to the back lip of your shroud.  
> 
>
> 
>   Jim
> 
>
> 
>   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
> tabius barrett
>   Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 2:42 PM
>   To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
>   Subject: [Chevelle-list] Is there really a "high flow water pump?"
> 
>
> 
>   Hello all...I have a 71 SS 402 and I am still fighting the 
> summer time over-heat monster. I plan to order an aluminum 
> radiator soon but I remember someone telling me that the 
> so-called "high flow" water pumps are no better than a 
> standard water pump. My overheating seems to really occur at 
> idle (stop light, traffic, etc.). So here is the question: 
> Has anyone really found a high-flow water pump for my car and 
> if so, where can i get it and how much? Also, do you think 
> the aluminum radiator will help?
>
>   Thanks,
>   tbDallas
> 

> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Check out 1966 chevelle ss 4 speed car

[Brad Waller]

Have values gone up that much, or is this person delusional?  $27K for a 
non-original motor SS?  That seems really high unless everything else is 
pristine, which I doubt from the description of "have had this car since 
1973 and has not been restored painted once in 1986 from sun fade."  So 
it is an unrestored SS with no motor and a 20 year old paint job?


Brad Waller
1967 SS 396 (non-original motor)

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
1966 chevelle ss 4 speed car 
<http://houston.craigslist.org/car/658300128.html> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] O/T but worth the read

[Brad Waller]

http://www.snopes.com/politics/gasoline/saudigas.asp


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2008 11:44 AM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] O/T but worth the read



Little off topic but hope it's ok to post..Tom P
 
WHERE TO BUY AMERICAN GASOLINE. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT TO KNOW.  READ
ON. 


Gas rationing in the 70's worked even though we grumbled about
it.  It might even have been good for us!


Are you aware that the Saudis are boycotting American products? 

Shouldn't we return the favor?  Can't we take control of our own
destiny and let these giant o il importers know who REALLY generates
their profits, their livings?  How about leaving American Dollars in
America and reduce the import/export deficit?

An appealing remedy might be to boycott their GAS.  Every time
you fill up your car you can avoid putting more money into the coffers
of Saudi Arabia .  Just purchase gas from companies that don't import
their oil from the Saudis. 

Nothing is more frustrating than the feeling that every time I
fill up my tank, I'm sending my money to people who I get the impression
want me, my family and my friends dead.  Don't you think it might be of
interest to know which oil companies import Middle Eastern oil and which
do not?


These companies import Middle Eastern oil:


Shell...  205,742,000
barrels

Chevron/Texaco..  144,332,000 barrels

Exxon /Mobil...  130,082,000 barrels

Marathon/Speedway  117,740,000 barrels

Amoco  62,231,000 barrels



And CITGO oil is imported from Venezuela by Dictator Hugo Chavez
who hates America and openly avows our economic destruction!  (We pay
Chavez's regime nearly $10 Billion per year in oil revenues!)


The U.S. currently imports 5,517,000 barrels of crude oil per
day from OPEC.  If you do the math at $95 per barrel, that's over $524
million PER DAY ($191 BILLION per year!) handed over to OPEC, many of
whose members are our confirmed enemies!



Here are some large companies that do not import Middle Eastern
oil:

Sunoco...  0 barrels 
Conoco...  0 barrels 
Sinclair...  0 barrels 
BP / Phillips0 barrels

Hess.   0 barrels 
ARC0...0 barrels

Maverick..0 barrels

Flying J. .  0 barrels

Valero..0 barrels

*I AM GOING TO ADD THE FOLLOWING... J

*Murphy Oil USA  sold at Wal-Mart is from South Arkansas
and owned USA 
*Not only that they give scholarships to all children in
their town who finish high school and are legal US citizens. 

All of this information is available from the U.S. Department of
Energy and each company is required to state where they get their oil
and how much they are importing.

But to have a real impact, we need to reach literally millions
of gas buyers.  With the help of the internet, it's really simple to do.
Now, don't wimp out at this pointkeep reading and I'll explain how
simple it is to reach millions of people!!



I'm sending this note to about thirty people.  If each of you
send it to at only ten more (30 x 10 = 300)and those 300 send it to
at least ten more (300 x 10 = 3,000)and so on, by the time the
message reaches the sixth generation of people, we will have reached
over THREE MILLION consumers!!! 

If those three million get excited and pass this on to ten
friends each, then 30 million people will have been contacted!  If it
goes one level further, you guessed itTHREE HUNDRED MILLION
PEOPLE-the entire population of the United States of America 

Again, all you have to do is forward this message to 10 people.
How long would that really take you?  If each of us sends this e-mail
out to ten more people, within one day all 300 MILLION people could
theoretically be contacted during the next eight days!




 
.com  ) #6




  _  

Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides

.

Re: [Chevelle-list] Suggestions/Help please... :)

[Brad Waller]

In stock form, the 200R4 is not as strong as the 700R4.  You need to get a
quality rebuild that can handle the expra power that most of our cars can
produce.  There are people with turbo Grand Nationals that have 200R4s that
take a ton more power than any stock 700R4 could take, so you know they can
be strengthened.
 
You can find lots of information on the sites for the GN guys.  Also search
the Team Chevelle site (http://www.chevelles.com/) for threads that talk
about the 200 and 700 transmissions.
 

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Russ Miesner
Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 4:55 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Suggestions/Help please... :)



I noticed someone talk about the 200R and stated it is the same length
as what was already in the car.  What are the disadvantages of the 200R
versus the 700R?  I would think everyone would use the 200R if it requires
less modifications.  Any explanations would be greatly appreciated.
 
 Thanks in advance,
 Russ



  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 17:19:12 +
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Suggestions/Help please... :)


Nice!



  _  

Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 10:04:11 -0500
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Suggestions/Help please... :)

At 09:39 AM 3/24/2008, you wrote:




Mine, Wife drove her 66 elky down I picked it up, had to wait while they
dyno'ed the trans (they do that to all trans). We installed it ourselves.

This was just before Dale had his done, we figured gas savings would
pay for it & did yrs ago. Now with maybe $4.00 a gal for reg it won't
take long at all. and the 700R4 is sweet about 1800 rpm @ 70 sipping
gas with 383 motor ac on 


To add to this the Elky at that time had a 350 in it, when the Wife
installed the new 383 she wasn't happy with the shift hardness, she
wanted it to shift harder as she had been driving her 1971 blown camaro
TH400 in Dallas for 14 years. Called Greg, he said drive it down, she 
did & they worked on it for about 3 hours, got it to shift hard like
she wanted! Bill NO CHARGE! They take care of you.

Her 71 Camaro pics is here.
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1876/ 

66 Elky 383 build is here (yes she did install the motor) I helped
& handed her tools

http://www.geocities.com/Athens/1876/engine.html

http://www.geocities.com/cookie.geo/ready.html

http://www.geocities.com/dobedave/sleeper.html

Re: [Chevelle-list] Suggestions/Help please... :)

[Brad Waller]

Depending on your power levels, you might want to look at a 200R4.  It 
should be the same size as the transmission in your car.  That means 
less modifications to get the 700 to fit.  You can get these shipped to 
you from a reputable builder such as Bowtie Overdives 
(http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/index.shtml).


Brad Waller
'67 Chevelle, 700R4

tabius barrett wrote:
I need some help on two fronts. First, does anyone have any 
suggestions on where in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area i should go to get 
an overdrive transmission purchased and installed. Should I go with 
the 700R4?
 
Secondly, I ordered a new set of interior A/C vents and easily 
replaced the two center vents. However, how in the heck do I replace 
the two side vents?? Do I have to take the whole dashboard apart?
 
Thanks in Advance,

tb
71 Chevelle SS 402


In a rush? Get real-time answers with Windows Live Messenger. 
<http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_realtime_042008>

Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 56, Issue 12

[Brad Waller]

As long as you don't drain the reservoir, you can just put the lid on 
the master and bleed normally, I think.  That is how I have done it in 
the past.


Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

Larry Hickman wrote:
So, you hold the needle valve in while pumping the brakes and 
attempting the bleeding process all at the same time ???


*/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/* wrote:

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To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of Chevelle-list digest..."
Today's Topics:

1. Proportioning Valve Problems (Larry Hickman)
2. Re: Proportioning Valve Problems (Jim Buckingham)
From: Larry Hickman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Chevelle List 
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 13:17:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Proportioning Valve Problems

Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Proportioning Valve Problems

On mine, there was a rubber covered button that I had press to get
fluid to go to the rear.  Not sure if that was reqequired or just
happened at the same time.
 
Jim

Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding

[Brad Waller]

What if you put the rear of the car on ramps or jack stands?

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX 

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 1:43 PM
> To: Chevelle List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding
> 
> I would go with the vice. Its my understanding that there is 
> an area at the leading edge of the piston that can trap some 
> air if not sitting level. In the car it is higher than the 
> forward reservoir opening.
> 
> Godspeed,
> Dan Solomon
> It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize you 
> are in a hurry.
> http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 16:32:33 
> To:chevelle-list@chevelles.net
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding
> 
> 
> The master cylinder works properly when driving, and its on 
> an angle...so why wouldnt it work if you're just bleeding it? 
> Granted, it's a little harder and you have to be a little 
> more careful...but I bled the master cylinder while it was 
> installed on my car. Whichever works for yah. :o)
>  
>  
>  -Original Message-
>  From: Rick Schaefer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>  To: The Chevelle Mailing List 
>  Sent: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 1:27 pm
>  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding
>  
>  
>  The bleeding kit from the parts store works primo - and its 
> cheap.    Because the MC is mounted on an angle, I'd think 
> that its virtually impossible to bleed it correctly on the 
> car.   I'd mount the MC in a vise & do it.
>  
>  
> On Thu, Feb 28, 2008 at 2:10 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote:
>  Thanks Dan, you have also provided me other info before and 
> I surely appreciate it ALL   Thanks   Steve 
>  
>  
> 
>  
>  
>  -Original Message-
>  From: Daniel Solomon <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >
>  To: The Chevelle Mailing List  <mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net> >
>  Sent: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 10:34 am
>  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding
>  
>  
> You can also pickup a plastic set at the local auto parts 
> store. Got one a few months ago for 3 bucks. Comes with an 
> assortment of plastic nipples, a clip to hold them in the 
> reservoir and some hose.
>  
>  Godspeed, Dan Solomon
>  "It is a mistake to allow any mechanical object to realize 
> you are in a hurry."
>  http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/ 
> <http://www.freewebs.com/chevelles1970/> 
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
>  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net <mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net> 
>  Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 10:30:33 -0500
>  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
>  Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding
>  
>  
> I always take extra line, screw them into the master 
> cylinder, then bend them up and into the reservoir, so that 
> the ends of these lines are submerged in the reservoir. Fill 
> up the master cylinder with fluid, making sure the ends of 
> the lines are submerged. Put the master cylinder in a vise, 
> and push on the piston part of it with a screwdriver. You'll 
> see bubbles come out from the lines...keep going and going 
> and going and going(haha) untill no more air comes out. You 
> could do this on the car also...which is what I did. That way 
> you can just step on the brake pedal. But then you'd need 
> somebody else to tell you when the bubbles stop. 
>   
> Pretty easy to do really. If you have any more questions just ask. 
>  
>  
>  -Original Message-
>  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
>  To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net <mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net> 
>  Sent: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 6:10 am
>  Subject: [Chevelle-list] master cylinder bench bleeding
>  
>  
> Hi guys I had to replace a master cylinder on the 70 and I 
> got the one with no bleeders on it. What is the process to 
> properly bench bleed it?  Thanks  Steve 
>  
> 
>  Supercharge your AIM. Get the AIM toolbar 
> <http://download.aim.com/client/aimtoolbar?NCID=aolcmp0030
> 002586>  for your browser. 
>  
> 
>  Supercharge your AIM. Get the AIM toolbar 
> <http://download.aim.com/client/aimtoolbar?NCID=aolcmp0030
> 002586>  for your browser. = 
>  
> 
>  Supercharge your AIM. Get the AIM toolbar 
> <http://download.aim.com/client/aimtoolbar?NCID=aolcmp0030
> 002586>  for your browser. 
>  
> 
>  -- 
>  Rick Schaefer
>  72 TPI El Camino
>  
>  
> 
> 
> Supercharge your AIM. Get the AIM toolbar 
> <http://download.aim.com/client/aimtoolbar?NCID=aolcmp0030
> 002586>  for your browser. 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle exhaust exit routing photos sought

[Brad Waller]

Tim,
 
The paint job was very good.  I did a bunch of prep by removing bumpers,
trim, and some other stuff.  I also bought all the replacement body panels
(rust and previous accident damage).  They did not re-assemble the trim
other than the window chrome.
 
So, for stripping, primer, sanding, and final paint ran about $5K maybe ten
years ago.  They laid down a really thick coat of custom color paint and did
a great job of body prep (no waves) and paint finishing (very smooth).  I
might have the color mix somewhere, but I basically told them I wanted the
Chevelle to make the foreman's yellow '72 Camaro to look dull.  They
experimented and came up with a few possibilities, and this is the final
result.
 
The wheels are from Vintage Wheel Works (http://vintagewheelworks.com/) and
are the V45 wheels with 5 7/8" backspace.  You might be better with a 5 3/4"
backspace as there is minimal clearance between the upper A-Arm ball joint
socket on the Global West arms and the rim.  There is a ton of room to the
outside on the rear, and I did have to pound the wheelwell (trunk) a bit to
make sure the tire did not rub at max compression.  You can see some of this
in the pictures here:
http://epage.com/brad/Chevelle/v45/v45.html

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 9:41 AM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle exhaust exit routing photos sought


Hey Brad,
 
Love your Chevelle. I like that yellow paint...I have a few questions for
yah if you dont mind. Number one, how well did they paint your car? Are you
happy with it? About how much to get it painted? I'm taking mine tomorrow to
get painted, but I'm still looking for paint shops hahaha. 

Your new wheels...they are all 17x9.5's? What about tires sizes and
backspacing??? 

Thanks for your help!!!
-Tim




-Original Message-
From: Brad Waller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List' 
Sent: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 8:55 am
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle exhaust exit routing photos sought


I don't have routing pictures, but the shop just bent the pipes to go over
the axle and exit just behind the rear wheels. You can see the pipe in this
whole car picture: http://epage.com/brad/Chevelle/ as well as some of the
pictures on the page for the new V45 wheels.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ] On Behalf Of Michou Olivera
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 4:41 PM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle exhaust exit routing photos sought


Hey all,
 
I'm in the middle of trying to figure out how I want my exhaust to exit on
my 67 Chevelle and was wondering if anyone out there in Chevelle land has
any photos to share of how they routed theirs. Thanks in advance!
 
Cheers,
 
Michou
 

Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle exhaust exit routing photos sought

[Brad Waller]

I don't have routing pictures, but the shop just bent the pipes to go over
the axle and exit just behind the rear wheels. You can see the pipe in this
whole car picture: http://epage.com/brad/Chevelle/ as well as some of the
pictures on the page for the new V45 wheels.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michou Olivera
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 4:41 PM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle exhaust exit routing photos sought


Hey all,
 
I'm in the middle of trying to figure out how I want my exhaust to exit on
my 67 Chevelle and was wondering if anyone out there in Chevelle land has
any photos to share of how they routed theirs. Thanks in advance!
 
Cheers,
 
Michou
 
 

[Chevelle-list] Brakes and Suspension

[Brad Waller]

I did a lube job this weekend and it looks like the idler arm might be worn.
I have the Global West tall spindle conversion and I think everything has
been on the car for more than 15 years.

I'm thinking that I should just replace everything from the ball joints in
(as well as the ball joints).  Make sense?

Anything I'm overlooking?  Manufacturers to go with or avoid?

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

Re: [Chevelle-list] Hullo??

[Brad Waller]

Just find a PT that looks really good.  It will give you more incentive to
show up and work hard!

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rick Schaefer
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 11:27 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Hullo??


 Knees -  2 for the price of one,   For a variety of reasons. I only have so
much sick leave banked, and I wanted the pain & my limitations ENDED!   My
brother & c0-worker & a lady at chevelle tech all had 2 @ once & highly
recommended it to me.   And yes, finding a Dr who will still do 2 was  a bit
difficult.
 
   So far ( 9Days) there has been no drama at all.  I have not felt a bit of
significant pain.   Just in the last 2 days am I feeling the incision &
staples.   But its just an annoying feeling for now.  I get around the house
& out to the mailbox pretty well.  Am up to 95 degrees on the CPM.
Boredom
is the current enemy :D   I should have bought a laptop so I'd have
something to do while I'm on the CPM.
   Several people have told me that I will grow to hate my PT - But I
gotta give er a go.And the discomfort I have now is no wheres near the
pain I was living with.  I can sleep well at nite which I couldn't do
before.  Hope that all goes well on your second go-round.

-- 
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino

Re: [Chevelle-list] Hullo??

[Brad Waller]

It should be fine, but more work than a 200R4.  You have to shorten the 
driveshaft and rework the transmission mount with the 700 because it is 
longer than the 350.  The 200R4 is the same size as the 350, but I don't 
know for sure about the mount. You can get a beefed up 200R4 that can 
take lots of power. I have the 700 in my Chevelle.


Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

Tom Seitzinger wrote:
Just a feeler to see what everyone thinks about 700R4 behind 383 in 66 
malibu. Strong enough or junk.
Seems ok behind the 350 now but spring is coming. Have new engine 
built & would like it right 1st time.
 
black&blue66

Re: [Chevelle-list] In need of a Pitman Arm

[Brad Waller]

Let me check my garage.  There is a chance I have one.
 
Brad Waller

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of William Piper
Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 6:05 AM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: [Chevelle-list] In need of a Pitman Arm


All,
 
I'm just about to finish up a rolling chassis for a 67 Chevelle with power
steering. After rummaging around my garage I wasn't able to find the right
size Pitman Arm to match the power steering. I wanted to ask members of this
list if anyone had an extra one before I entertain the idea of buying a
reproduction one.  My goal is to build the chassis and complete most of the
bodywork prior to transferring the body to the new chassis.  My name and
address is listed if anyone is able to assist. Thanks   
 
Tom Piper
112 Air Park Drive 
Warner Robins GA 31088
 
Home Ph (478) 218-2234

Re: [Chevelle-list] Please help! Sway bar information

[Brad Waller]

I'm sure you have a front bar already.  Most Chevelles did not come with 
a rear bar. Since you already have some Hotchkis parts, you might want 
to call their tech line and talk through your issues and get advice.  
There are two philosophies when it comes to sway bars.  One camp likes 
big bars and softer springs.  The other likes small (and/or no rear) bar 
and stiffer springs.  Each has it's own plus and minus.  Do you want a 
softer ride, but lots of side to side when you go over driveways and 
bumps at an angle?  Do you want a stiffer ride, but have more of an even 
feel over bumps and less connection between the left and right suspension?


I've simplified it a bit, but you get the idea.  Your car is balanced 
now.  You do not want to increase the front bar and leave the rear alone 
unless you want to risk messing up the handling.  You should not have 
major over or uindersteer as it is now, but if you add a large front bar 
and leave the rear alone, or add the rear bar and leave the front alone 
you risk dangerous and unpredictable handling.  This is where Hotchkis 
comes in.  They can tell you what you can use and what will work with 
your exact setup.


I'm using Global West gear, so I used them for advice.  I have stiffer 
springs, a slightly larger front bar, and no rear bar.  All chosen in 
consultation with them.  BTW, my poly bushings just started to squeak 
this year - maybe ten years after I installed them.


Brad Waller
'67 Chevelle
'66 Corvette

Eduardo (Eddie) Gamino wrote:

To anyone who can help me out:

I tried to find the answer in other forums, but had no luck. I'm having difficulties about 
finding the right appropriate size and brand of sway bar to choose from that will fit my 
application and that will not do me vehicle more harm than good. I was looking at the hotchkis 
bars, but they use polyurethane bushings and I don't really want to deal with the squeaking. 
I'm thinking about getting the 1 1/4" or the 1 3/8" front bar. Then later on get the 
rear 1" sway bar. Would this be a good set up or is it too much?  For the Hotchkis bars, 
I heard that some have had their sway bars break since they are made as hollow. Is this 
correct?  I believe GP superstore is giving a 20% discount on Hotchkis parts. Also, some car 
owners have suggested that OPGI has good heat treated sway bars.  Does any one know of these 
bars being worth the buy?

I use my 1970 chevelle as a street driver car, which has a 350 engine, 350 tranny, rebuilt 12 bolt 3.47 non-posi rear end, with some high performance parts here and there. I bought the lower box rear control arms from Ground Up.  Most of the front suspension is of Moog parts and have front and rear Hotchkis springs with KYB shocks up front and Monroe shocks at rear. My car never sees the track, since it's not built as a racing car. However, if it helps, later on I will beef up the engine to a 383 in the future. 


I have never had that experience driving with any sway bar, front or rear, that I don't 
know how it feels. Some people say it's better and you can really feel the difference 
than without one. Some also say to never drive on the streets without one. I don't have 
one and I drive on the streets all the time. I mean, I do feel that "lean" feel 
on the car that people talk about. So, should I invest in a pair of sway bars after all? 
I'm all for any improvments in my driving handling.  Bottom line, can anyone please point 
me in the right direction with specific choices in helping me choose the right 
combination of size for the front and rear sway bars and what brand out of many is the 
best for me? It will be highly appreciated. thanks
-Eddie

  


--

Re: [Chevelle-list] Pitman Arm Problem

[Brad Waller]

You should have seen the hige chunks we took out of the garage floor when
trying to remove the pittman arm.  Pullers, plain old banging, etc.  Nothing
worked.  I took the arm and box to a shop and had them do the swap for me.
I think it was part of other work they did, and I have no idea what they
charged, but it could not have been much.
 
Your other choice would be to buy a replacement pittman arm and use that for
the new box.  You will always have a spare arm/box combo sitting on the
shelf if you need one...

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Thomas Ringlein
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 4:11 PM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Pitman Arm Problem



Merry Christmas folks – I have a problem I have to address after all the
beer is gone.

I got a steering box out of a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee I plan to swap to the
Chevelle after the new year.  Problem is, I cannot remove the Jeep pitman
arm to install my Chevelle arm.  I “borrowed” one from the local Kragen and
broke it when I tried to use it.  I got one from the local Autozone, and
broke that one also.  I started to begin to believe it was something I was
doing – but not so.  I removed the nut (duh), turned the box upside down
overnight and soaked the recess in WD-40, put it back on the car and heated
the pitman arm with my torch, put the puller on and torqued it with my ½”
drive with 24” steel pipe for leverage.  The pitman arm did not budge.
Puller broke at one of the tabs that contacted the arm.  I can’t find anyone
in town that rents any quality (read: snap-on or equivalent) pitman arm
pullers – so I am out of luck unless I want to take it to a shop, buy a
ridiculously expensive puller, or see if I can borrow one from a shop or an
acquaintance (I have not worked that angle yet).

Any suggestions on getting this thing separated?  The Jeep puller should not
be any different to pull off then the Chevelle arm, right?



Tom Ringlein

Clovis, CA

72 Chevelle

Re: [Chevelle-list] WTB: Manual Trans Flywheel

[Brad Waller]

I have one, but it is probably not worth the shipping from California.  Let
me know if you have trouble finding one nearby.  Pix here:
http://epage.com/brad/Corvette/Clutch/

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of chevelle292wagon
dejazzd.com
Sent: Friday, December 07, 2007 12:54 PM
To: Chevelle-list
Subject: [Chevelle-list] WTB: Manual Trans Flywheel


Hi,
I'm looking for an original Chevy  12 3/4" / 153 tooth manual trans flywheel
in good condition.
Please contact off list.
I live near Reading, PA; so closer is probably better.
Thanks
Pete 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Need '66 dated starter

[Brad Waller]

Sorry,

The starter is an 1108391 date coded 8 M 16.  Maybe someone out there  
needs a '68 starter...


Brad


On Oct 19, 2007, at 10:55 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I am looking for a Delco Remy starter P/N 1107365 date coded between  
6 C 1 and 6 E 11, closer to the later the better. Can be rebuilt or  
rebuildable.  Anyone have one or know of a source?  Application =  
'66 Chevelle 396


Thank you,

Krister Meister
'66 #'s L34

Re: [Chevelle-list] 2 post lift

[Brad Waller]

Cooler weather?  It was 82 today!

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kyle Bennett
Sent: Tuesday, November 13, 2007 3:22 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] 2 post lift


Since the list kinda slow right now (I can only assume with the cooler
weather EVERYONE is out working on their cars and to busy to post...wink).
Anyways, i'm looking to buy a 2 post asymetrical lift for my garage and i'm
leaning heavily towards this one. Anyone got any opinions or dealing with
this company. Their stuff looks to be well built.
 
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Master-Series-XL-9-p/tp-xl-9oh.htm
 
Thanks,
Kyle
 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Off Subject But Car Related

[Brad Waller]

Dunno about any specific one, but if you like hearses, check out
http://members.aol.com/hearseq/grimrides.htm
 
They have classifieds as well with about 20 hearses and sometimes
ambulances.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of D.R. Jones
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2007 5:12 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Off Subject But Car Related


Real nice 1959 Caddy hearse for sale, Google for it. Don't remember exactly
which site it was on.
 
D.R. Jones 

Josh Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Awsome!!! I've been Jonesing for another Caddy hearse, had a 63 ambulance,
awsome car it was kind of freaky though to drive sometimes think about
it dead people ride in a hearse.. people have DIED in an ambulance!!!
Otherwise I would love to get another one, or just a regular Fleetwood, or
something like that, they make awsome cruisers.


Josh Campbell
66 SS 396 (Black on the rotisseree, 1st car never part with it)
66 SS 396 (Red got it on a trade I only wanted the steering wheel)
87 Monte Carlo SS (The modern Chevelle especially when you add the right
stuff)
71 Malibu (Something new to blow my money on)
  _  

Get easy, one-click access to your favorites. Make
<http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=51443/*http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs> Yahoo! your
homepage. 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 52, Issue 10

[Brad Waller]

[EMAIL PROTECTED],
 
Sprechen Sie Deutch? No habla inglese.

Brad Waller

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 6:11 PM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Chevelle-list Digest, Vol 52, Issue 10



NO MORE EMAILS   DON'T YOU UNDERSTAND ENGLISH???




  _  

See what's new at AOL.com <http://www.aol.com?NCID=AOLCMP0030001170>
and Make AOL Your
<http://www.aol.com/mksplash.adp?NCID=AOLCMP0030001169> Homepage.

Re: [Chevelle-list] First time selling on chevelle forum and a scam?

[Brad Waller]

Sorry but this is false.  The scam often involves forged cashiers checks.  I
know of cases where the bank verified the check, the money cleared, and then
weeks later the bank found out it was a forgery.  They then took back all
the money from the person's account.  They were out the item and had
problems when their account ran dry and checks started bouncing.
 
Never wire money Western Union!
 
I have not heard of problems with Postal money orders.
 
If you are suspicious, run.  If you want to make the sale, use Escrow and
let them take the risk.
 
You might want to check with the forum admin to trace the IP address of this
guy to see if he is where he says he is.  You can ask for his phone number -
and call it. Scammers usually disappear if you ask or provide a false
number.

Brad Waller (owner of EPage.com classifieds since 1994)

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Terry S Hodges
Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 12:29 PM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List; The Chevelle Mailing List
Cc: Randy S Johnson
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] First time selling on chevelle forum and a
scam?


Just make sure you wait for their check to clear, it doesn't matter if it is
a cashiers check or not. Still takes three days to clear If the routing
numbers are legit, then your bank will notify you.. A US postal order is
better. Then you can go to the post office and see if it is legitimate or
not when they run the numbers. 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Need '66 dated starter

[Brad Waller]

Sorry,

The starter is an 1108391 date coded 8 M 16.  Maybe someone out there  
needs a '68 starter...


Brad


On Oct 19, 2007, at 10:55 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I am looking for a Delco Remy starter P/N 1107365 date coded  
between 6 C 1 and 6 E 11, closer to the later the better. Can be  
rebuilt or rebuildable.  Anyone have one or know of a source?   
Application = '66 Chevelle 396


Thank you,

Krister Meister
'66 #'s L34

Re: [Chevelle-list] Looking for a car

[Brad Waller]

Nevermind.  I just checked and they guy died back in 2004.  No more
Goatfinder.  Too bad, he was a pretyt decent guy and did a good job. 

Brad the first

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brad Olson
> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 9:39 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Looking for a car
> 
> -- Original message --
> From: "Alex LaRue" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > One of my customers just lost his 65 GTO Convertible in a 
> house fire. A real
> > tragedy. In a couple of weeks he will be looking for 
> another one in any
> > condition, do any of you know of one for sale? My customer 
> is located in KY,
> > so the closer to KY the better. Thanks.
> 
> I don't know of any right now but a couple of online sources are
> classicalpontiac.com and performanceyears.com.
> 
> Brad
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Looking for a car

[Brad Waller]

Don't forget about Goatfinder.  Make sure you go to
http://www.pontiacserver.com/goatfinder.html and not
http://www.goatfinder.com/ unless you are into farm animals.  I doubt they
would have any 1965 models unless they are stuffed and mounted...
 
Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brad Olson
> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2007 9:39 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Looking for a car
> 
> -- Original message --
> From: "Alex LaRue" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > One of my customers just lost his 65 GTO Convertible in a 
> house fire. A real
> > tragedy. In a couple of weeks he will be looking for 
> another one in any
> > condition, do any of you know of one for sale? My customer 
> is located in KY,
> > so the closer to KY the better. Thanks.
> 
> I don't know of any right now but a couple of online sources are
> classicalpontiac.com and performanceyears.com.
> 
> Brad
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Desk Top Dyno

[Brad Waller]

I have a copy of Dyno 2000 if you want to send me the specs. The program can
only make guesses if there is no file for the head flow or cam.  Many exist,
but I have mostly small block data.  I need displacement, cylinder head data
(flow, valves), cam specs, intake style and CFM, header class (street, race,
etc.), and compression ratio.

The BBC head flow data files I have are:
Canfield 305
Edelbrock 6040, 6045, 6055, 7765, Performer, VictorCNC, Victor JR
Holley Avenger
WP Jenkins Merlin (used this for my guess) Aluminum and Iron 
GM 049 Oval, 188 Rectangular

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Desk Top Dyno
> 
> Is there any downloadable programs available on the net?  
> Whats good?  I 
> need to know the theoretical HP of my BB to order a Mass Flo set-up. 
> 
> Larry

Re: [Chevelle-list] OT: Microsoft Publisher 2007

[Brad Waller]

If you really want to make a Web site, then I suggest you not use 
Publisher.  I really like Dreamweaver as a site design/HTML editor.  It 
is very easy to use as well as being very cabable.


Brad Waller
'67 Chevelle, '66 Corvette, '94 Web site

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hey Mikefunny you're posting about this. I was just looking into 
buying Publisher yesterday. I have 2003 here at work. I want to make a 
webpage for my side buisness...however I dont think my work would 
appreciate me using thier stuff for another buisness. How do you like 
using Publisher? Are you saying that on 2003, when you create a 
webpage, you cant upload it to a site because its not HTML??

Re: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking

[Brad Waller]

My first thought was that the Master Cylinder was bad.  Even though it is
new, it could be.  Or maybe you need to adjust the plunger/pedal?  It has
been way too long for me, but I had the opposite problem of the brakes
applying themselves after a while until the wheels locked.  That was from
the adjustement bein off the other direction.  Too tight and the brakes are
always on!  Maybe too loose and you get lots of travel and no pressure.
 
Is the master the right one for the other parts? You say you might put the
booster back on the firewall, so does this mean the master is a non-power
master?  I'm not sure what would happen if you had a power master with no
booster, but I think it would be a problem to add a booster to a manual
master cylinder.  If things are mismatched here, maybe that is why you get
no power from your braking?

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Daniel Solomon
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 9:52 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] No Pedal - Poor Braking


Picked up my 70 Chevelle from the body shop on Thursday and took it for its
maiden voyage this weekend. Car looks and runs great but won't stop. I have
absolutely NO pedal. Its not spongy but way to much pedal travel. Hopefully
someone out there can guide me to a solution. Here is what i am running...

4 Wheel Drum Brakes - All pads and hardware are brand new
4 New Brake Cylinders
New Drum Brake Master Cylinder
Used GM Power Booster
Original Proportioning Valve
All New Lines
Silicone Brake Fluid

I adjusted all of the brakes but it did not help. Bled them again but did
not find any air in the lines. Wondering if I should ditch the booster and
put the master cylinder back on the firewall as it was before. It is the
only thing that I changed in the setup.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Now that I have it done I want to
drive!
 
Thanks, Dan

Re: [Chevelle-list] Coupon Codes

[Brad Waller]

It depends.  Where did the codes come from?  Many times they are 
generic, but they can also often be given to specific Web sites or 
affiliates.  If the code was given to a specific affiliate, then it 
might only be valid for them and should not be shared.  You might want 
to see if any of these vendors have affiliate programs.  If so, you can 
both earn money and give them discounts when you refer them.


Karl Groves wrote:

Does anyone know if coupon codes for the parts houses (like Classic
Industries, Year One, etc.) are unique?   Every so often I get a postcard
from some of those places, and I was contemplating posting them on my
website www.8pistons.com so others could save money, too, but I don't know
if others can use them or just me (in other words, if there's one coupon
code per customer or something).


Karl Groves
Skype: eight.pistons
AIM, YIM, MSN: karlcore

http://www.karlcore.com 
http://www.grayscalecms.com

http://www.thehotrodclassifieds.com
http://www.8pistons.com
  

Re: [Chevelle-list] compreesion

[Brad Waller]

The formula is basic math. Pi-r squared stuff.  You can enter the data on
this site and they will do the math for you:
http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html
 
This is compression ratio.  If you assume atmospheric is 14 PSI, then
multiple the result by 14.  This is a calculated number, and if your cam
opens the valve early or closes late, the test numbers will be lower.  142
PSI is about 10:1, I'd guess.
 
The math explained:
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/165.cfm

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim & Chris
Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2007 8:36 AM
To: Chevelle Forum
Subject: [Chevelle-list] compreesion


Does any one know if there is a formula to figure out compression ratio ? I
have a 454 , 40 over with flat top pistons, 113cc oval port open chamber
heads. I did a compression test this morning with the highest reading 142
psi and lowest 131psi. Ive been curious about this for a while. Jimmy C.

Re: [Chevelle-list] 700r4 TV Cable Adjustment

[Brad Waller]

Rick Schaefer wrote:
   Does anyone have instructions/advice for adjusting the TV cable on 
my 700?   I am using a LOKAR TV Cable & Bracket on a TPI motor, not 
the stock zip & click stock cable.When I installed it several 
years ago, I adjusted it using a gauge and had to read specific 
pressure ranges for each gear.  I can't find the info used back then.  
Thanx


--
Rick Schaefer
72 TPI El Camino


One reference (from Corvette Forum):
The TV cable adjustment is made on the side of the carb. It is something 
that can be done in a few minutes. If your pivot point is correct all 
you do is push in the metal tab on the cable mount and push the nose 
towards the firewall or into the mounting bracket then take the carb 
throttle linkage and give it full throttle until the cable ratcheted out 
and the butterflies of the carb are at full throttle position. This 
should adjust the TV cable correctly. If you make the cable shorter by 
pushing it into the body the shifts are alot harder You can try this but 
the 1st time you floor it the cable will self adjust. I mentioned the 
throttle stud must be in the correct location so that at a given 
throttle position the TV cable is pulled out the correct amount for line 
pressure. I have these demensions but not here. The shop that rebuilt my 
transmission wanted my copy for their files. Remember to adjust the TV 
cable nothing but the aircleaner must come off.


Chevelle Forum: 
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-79170.html


Bowtie Overdrives has a detailed PDF on this and more:
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/Instructions/TV_101-1.pdf

You can also read a few other sites:
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/transmission/tvcable.html
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/subject.htm
--

Brad Waller 

Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle front suspension

[Brad Waller]

What disk brake swap did you do?  If you swapped to stock disks, then follow
the parts book advice.  But if you swapped to F-Body spindles, I think you
need F-Body ball joints!  Check your old paperwork from when you did the
swap and make sure you have the right ball joints (and other parts) for your
setup.

While you are doing all this, check you're A-Arms for cracks.  When I did
the disk braks swap more than 10 year back, I bought a set of arms at the
swap meet and had them reinforced (basically boxed -
http://epage.com/brad/Chevelle/arm/) and had all the hardware mounted to
them.  Then it was just swap out the old and insert the new.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Bradley
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2007 10:12 AM
> To: chevelle-list: chevelles.net
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] 67 Chevelle front suspension
> 
> Chevelle Gurus
> I'm headed to the local parts store to buy ball joints and 
> control arm bushings for my 67 Malibu. any words of wisdom 
> before I dive in?
> I haven't touched the front end since swapping from drum 
> brakes to disk a couple years ago, and since its time for new 
> tires (no, I never had it aligned after the swap, I know, 
> DUMB) any help would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> --
> Bill Bradley
> 67 Chevelle Malibu
> http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/chevellerestoration/
> 71 Triumph Spitfire
> 82 Chevy C-10
> 

[Chevelle-list] Battery Tray Follow-Up

[Brad Waller]

I picked up the battery tray from Trevor at the Long Beach Swap Meet 
today and figured I'd swap out the tray.  I'm not sure how it happened 
but the old, rusty, acid etched tray came out in less than five minutes, 
and the new tray was in after another five.  I was shocked that I could 
be done so fast.


Of course I had to ruin it by R&Ring the battery cables.  The negative 
was easy, but of course the positive was the usual PITA.  Finally, the 
car did what it was supposed to and made something hard for me.


Brad Waller
'67 Chevelle
'66 Corvette

[Chevelle-list] Battery Tray

[Brad Waller]

The Chevelle would not start on Monday (in the In-N-Out parking lot) beause
the battery just went out.  It looks like it was leaking acid as well, as
the battery tray is partially gone.

Does the tray just bolt in?  If so, is this a hard item to find or does the
aftermarket sell lots of these?  Trevor, will you be in Long Beach this
weekend?  I bought a new battery and cables, and figure I'll replace the
tray and hold downs as long as I'm doing this.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

Re: [Chevelle-list] O/T FYI... 2009 Chevrolet Camaro

[Brad Waller]

I saw one at the GM Rev-It-Up event.  I thought it looked really big. 
Decent looks, but a lot bigger than I hoped.


Brad Waller
'67 Chevelle, 66 Corvette

John Nasta wrote:
I think the rear quarter area looks a lot like the lines of the 67-69 
Camaro, but if they are trying to build a car with a retro 
look/appeal, they have to put some fat round headlights in the front 
corners and increase the height of the grill area. To me, that grill 
looks too Japanese, but I think the headlight/grill area may be what's 
reminding you of the Mustang.


JMHO

Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:
I don't know about you guys... but to me the 2009 Camaro sure does 
look a

lot like a MUSTANG any other opinions?

Donnie

Re: [Chevelle-list] Vacum

[Brad Waller]

I had just about the same thing happen to me.  My push rod was just 
bent, not broken.  The heads needed a servicing, which would have cost 
about as much as new heads, so I bought a set of World S/R heads which 
were only a bit more than freshening up my old heads.  They should be a 
bit better for performance as well.  If your engine is built up more, 
there are other heads that might be a better choice.  We left the cam 
and lifters as they were in good shape still.


Brad Waller
'67 Chevelle
'66 Corvette

Jim & Chris wrote:
/I just found the problem .It seems the intake lifter on #7 must have 
failed causing the push rod to bend like a slight "S" and break off . 
so now I'm going to take the manifold off to retrieve the lifter and 
bottom piece of the push rod and look for damage. is there anything 
else I should do while I have it apart ie.change all the lifters and 
pusrods ? Thanks again Guy's, Jimmy C./

Re: [Chevelle-list] BRAD--My 540 stats

[Brad Waller]

Joe,

Do you have flow numbers for the heads?  I don't have the Dart Pro 1 in my
files.  I also need the cam lobe center and centerline unless I can find a
copy for this cam online.  I guessed at 112 for each.

The BBC heads I have are:
Canfield 305
Edelbrock 6040, 6045, 6055, 7765, Performer, VictorCNC, Victor JR
Holley Avenger
WP Jenkins Merlin (used this for my guess) Aluminum and Iron 
GM 049 Oval, 188 Rectangular

Guess numbers:

RPMTQHP
2000   456   174
2500   507   241
3000   528   302
3500   571   381
4000   617   470
4500   657   558
5000   665   633
5500   652   683
6000   618   706
6500   568   704
7000   512   682
7500   450   643

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX


> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
> Rozanski Joe (GS/EMP4-NA)
> Sent: Monday, July 02, 2007 6:49 AM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] BRAD--My 540 stats
> 
> Hey Brad,
> Here are my engine stats, if you need anything else let me know...
> Merlin 540 cu.in.
> 14:1 comp
> 4.500 bore x 4.250 stroke
> Dart alum. Pro 1 320 heads ported polished and some trick work
> 2.30 intake 1.88 exhaust valves
> Crane solid roller cam part #138331  grind #R-280/450-8
> Intake lift 765  exhaust lift 765
> Intake [EMAIL PROTECTED]  280  exhaust [EMAIL PROTECTED]  280
> 1.7 Crane Gold roller rockers
> Crower lifters
> Dart intake w/1100 Dominator by Pro systems
> Turbo 400 w/5000 stahl 9in.
> 
> Thanks again,
> joe
> 
> -----Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brad Waller
> Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 2:32 PM
> To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Copy your 402?
> 
> Sure, send me data and I'll run what I can.  Same goes for 
> anyone else,
> but
> if I get a ton of requests it might be slow.  I do have some 
> work to get
> done today before taking people out to wait in line for their iPhone.
> 
> Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
> 
> '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
> '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 
> 275/40/17 Kumho MX
> 
> 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
> > Rozanski Joe (GS/EMP4-NA)
> > Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 10:19 AM
> > To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Copy your 402?
> > 
> > Hey Brad,
> > If your interested, I would like you to run some numbers on a 
> > my wicked
> > 540...
> > Thanks
> > joe 
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
> Brad Waller
> > Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 12:54 PM
> > To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
> > Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Copy your 402?
> > 
> > Pelle,
> >  
> > Which heads do you have?  I can run a Dyno2000 simulation with your
> > setup
> > and get some guesses.  Give me a "parts list" of the engine 
> builds you
> > are
> > thinking of.  If you have Cam specs or the actual cam name I 
> > might have
> > them
> > stored already.  I took some guesses as to components and 
> > came up with a
> > 425
> > HP combo off the bat.  I used what you gave me and assumed Edelbrock
> > Performer heads and a high performance hydraulic lifter cam.  The
> > program
> > assumed lifts of .504/.479 and the engine is guessed to 
> have 424HP at
> > 5500
> > RPM, but torque starts at 411 at 2000 RPM, peaks at 450 at 
> > 4000 RPM, and
> > drops to 366 by 6000 RPM.
> >  
> > Not an actual engine to copy, but at least it gives you an 
> > idea what you
> > can
> > look into.
> >  
> > The only 402 file I have is from an engine with a roller cam. 
> >  It has GM
> > Rectangular port "188" heads, a 850 CFM carb with a dual 
> plane intake,
> > small
> > tube headers, and Comp XR282HR cam.  Numbers are:
> >  
> > RPM HPTQ
> > 2000   168   442
> > 2500   218   457
> > 3000   268   469
> > 3500   322   484
> > 4000   371   487
> > 4500   413   481
> > 5000   436   458
> > 5500   432   412
> > 6000   410   359
> > 
> > Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
> > 
> > '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 
> 245/45/16 BFG R1
> > &#x

Re: [Chevelle-list] Copy your 402?

[Brad Waller]

Sure, send me data and I'll run what I can.  Same goes for anyone else, but
if I get a ton of requests it might be slow.  I do have some work to get
done today before taking people out to wait in line for their iPhone.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX 

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
> Rozanski Joe (GS/EMP4-NA)
> Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 10:19 AM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Copy your 402?
> 
> Hey Brad,
> If your interested, I would like you to run some numbers on a 
> my wicked
> 540...
> Thanks
> joe 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brad Waller
> Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 12:54 PM
> To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Copy your 402?
> 
> Pelle,
>  
> Which heads do you have?  I can run a Dyno2000 simulation with your
> setup
> and get some guesses.  Give me a "parts list" of the engine builds you
> are
> thinking of.  If you have Cam specs or the actual cam name I 
> might have
> them
> stored already.  I took some guesses as to components and 
> came up with a
> 425
> HP combo off the bat.  I used what you gave me and assumed Edelbrock
> Performer heads and a high performance hydraulic lifter cam.  The
> program
> assumed lifts of .504/.479 and the engine is guessed to have 424HP at
> 5500
> RPM, but torque starts at 411 at 2000 RPM, peaks at 450 at 
> 4000 RPM, and
> drops to 366 by 6000 RPM.
>  
> Not an actual engine to copy, but at least it gives you an 
> idea what you
> can
> look into.
>  
> The only 402 file I have is from an engine with a roller cam. 
>  It has GM
> Rectangular port "188" heads, a 850 CFM carb with a dual plane intake,
> small
> tube headers, and Comp XR282HR cam.  Numbers are:
>  
> RPM HPTQ
> 2000   168   442
> 2500   218   457
> 3000   268   469
> 3500   322   484
> 4000   371   487
> 4500   413   481
> 5000   436   458
> 5500   432   412
> 6000   410   359
> 
> Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
> 
> '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
> '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 
> 275/40/17 Kumho MX
> 
> 
> 
>   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pelle
> Andersson
>   Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 8:35 AM
>   To: The Chevelle Mailing List
>   Subject: [Chevelle-list] Copy your 402?
>   
>   
>   Does anyone have a 402 (.060 over) 2-bolt main with approx
> 400-500
> hp
>   which i can copy?
>
>   I'm asking because when i get my block back from the machine
> shop
>   I'd like to get "bolt on" hp without too much
> hassle/experimentation.
>
>   Im planning to raise the comp to 10:1(new pistons), keep the
> original heads, my
>   800 cfm Holley, my Hooker headers with 2'' primarys and my
> Edelbrock
> RPM performance Intake.
>
>   I know i've been pestering you guys with this before but I still
> need some ideas/input/advice!
>
>
>   Best regards
>   Pelle
>   __
>   Chevelle gearheads
>   http://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/
>   http://www.chevelleforum.se/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Copy your 402?

[Brad Waller]

Pelle,
 
Which heads do you have?  I can run a Dyno2000 simulation with your setup
and get some guesses.  Give me a "parts list" of the engine builds you are
thinking of.  If you have Cam specs or the actual cam name I might have them
stored already.  I took some guesses as to components and came up with a 425
HP combo off the bat.  I used what you gave me and assumed Edelbrock
Performer heads and a high performance hydraulic lifter cam.  The program
assumed lifts of .504/.479 and the engine is guessed to have 424HP at 5500
RPM, but torque starts at 411 at 2000 RPM, peaks at 450 at 4000 RPM, and
drops to 366 by 6000 RPM.
 
Not an actual engine to copy, but at least it gives you an idea what you can
look into.
 
The only 402 file I have is from an engine with a roller cam.  It has GM
Rectangular port "188" heads, a 850 CFM carb with a dual plane intake, small
tube headers, and Comp XR282HR cam.  Numbers are:
 
RPM HPTQ
2000   168   442
2500   218   457
3000   268   469
3500   322   484
4000   371   487
4500   413   481
5000   436   458
5500   432   412
6000   410   359

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX



From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pelle Andersson
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 8:35 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Copy your 402?


Does anyone have a 402 (.060 over) 2-bolt main with approx 400-500
hp
which i can copy?
 
I'm asking because when i get my block back from the machine shop
I'd like to get "bolt on" hp without too much
hassle/experimentation.
 
Im planning to raise the comp to 10:1(new pistons), keep the
original heads, my
800 cfm Holley, my Hooker headers with 2'' primarys and my Edelbrock
RPM performance Intake.
 
I know i've been pestering you guys with this before but I still
need some ideas/input/advice!
 
 
Best regards
Pelle
__
Chevelle gearheads
http://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/
http://www.chevelleforum.se/

Re: [Chevelle-list] Holley or Edelbrock

[Brad Waller]

If not the power valve, then check the accelerator shooter.  There is a
spring (I think) that modifies the volume of the shot you get when you hit
the gas pedal.  It could be that you are getting too much or too little
extra gas when you hit the throttle.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2007 7:41 AM
To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Holley or Edelbrock



I have a Holley Avenger, 570, on my 65 327with a mild Lunati cam, just can't
seem to get it right. It has a bad stumble when accelerating. Playing with
the power valves and the jets now hoping to solve the problem. Been a
nightmare, but has lots more on acceleration than the Edelbrock 1406. Any
suggestions on the stumble?




  _  

See what's free at AOL.com <http://www.aol.com?ncid=AOLAOF0002000503> . 

Re: [Chevelle-list] need help with BBC parts

[Brad Waller]

At first glance, I think you missed the water pump and heater hoses.  
There are a number of fitting on the intake for heater hoses, bypass 
hoses and maybe even temperature sender.  Plan the plumbing and see if 
you need to block off any of these.


I assume you include all brackets when you list "ALL FORWARD ENGINE 
ACCYS AND PULLEYS" and of course the water pump needs a pulley unless it 
is electric.


Once you have all this you will need belts (or a serpentine belt) for 
the accessories. Is all the wiring there?  You meed power for the coil 
and to the alternator and maybe to an electric choke. 


PCV Valve and hoses.

Base and lid for the air cleaner.

Power Steering fluid?

Carb gasket?

Any linkage or connection to the tranny for kickdown?

Brad Waller
'67 Chevelle
'66 Corvette

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
So I have this car that needs the engine completed... and honestly I'm 
a little overwhelmed and in need of some help to make sure I'm not 
overlooking anything on my parts list.
 
If a few of you can take a moment to look at the pictures and see if I 
need to add anything to my parts list, I would be very grateful.
 
Here is the link with the pics and parts list.
 
http://www.lowriderimpala.com/1971chevelle.html
 
 
 
Thank you.
 
Dan McIntosh

Street Metal Fabrications
http://www.lowriderimpala.com
 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Autoobsession

[Brad Waller]

It was many years ago, but I bought a gas tank from Trevor (?).  It had 
a rust hole in it and was in really bad shape.  He dropped a replacement 
off at my house and that tank is still in the car.  I'd so business with 
him again.


Brad Waller
'67 Chevelle
'66 Corvette

Bob Hiller wrote:


Has anyone had any luck with parts from Autoobsession ? I placed my 
first order and it seems they shipped it by mule. I can never seem to 
get a straight answer to email messages either. Just looking for 
pros/cons as I will be buying many items for my 69.


 


Bob

Re: [Chevelle-list] Brad Waller

[Brad Waller]

I know, that was not off list...

Brad

Herb Lumpp wrote:

Hey Brad, can you email me off line?  Thanks.

Herb
  

Re: [Chevelle-list] 67 suspension woes

[Brad Waller]

William Piper wrote:


All,

 

I just realized that I have not given any thought about what 
shock/spring combination to use on my 67.  I plan to upgrade the 
control arms before I put the body back on the frame but upgrading the 
springs/shocks doesn't seem to get a lot of attention.  I'm using coil 
over conversion up front and would like something equally adjustable 
in the rear. The car will primarily be a driver but would like for the 
car to stay flat in the turns.  Any ideas!  Thanks Tom


Whose coil over kit are you using?  Ask them what will be a good match 
for your front end.  I've always said you want to make sure you use the 
advice of one company and not mix.  You don't want the front end 
fighting with the rear or having a mismatch that makes the rear end swap 
with the front. If you do have adjustable shocks, external adjustments 
are a huge help.  I have Konis that adjust off the car and I have 
adjusted them twice since I installed them.


Brad Waller
'67 Chevelle

Re: [Chevelle-list] Brad Waller

[Brad Waller]

Herb,

I'm here.  What do you need?

Brad

Herb Lumpp wrote:

Hey Brad, can you email me off line?  Thanks.

Herb
  

Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers

[Brad Waller]

I had Hookers for my small block and they were too low.  I ground off 
the bottom bolt from the collector after a few years.  I replaced them 
with Hedman intermediates and they fit and worked pretty well.  Plugs 
are not too much trouble - for headers.  I did need to swap my first set 
for another due to a leak at the flange, but Hedman was great about 
giving me a replacement set without first removing the old set.


Brad Waller
'67 Chevelle

Mike Holleman wrote:
Matt, I'm the one that recommended Doug's. I can't compare them to 
Hedmans but they fit much better than Hookers and fit much tighter 
under the car as well. The last two sets I used on Abodys had the 
lowest point above the crossmember. The last set of Hookers I used 
dropped well below the crossmember. And frankly Dougs quality was 
clearly better than Hookers.

Mike
- Original Message - From: "Matthew Post" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "The Chevelle Mailing List" 
Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] JUNK Sanderson headers

In your experience, which headers have the best fit?  Hedmans?  
Someone else said Doug's fit good?  My main concern is ground clearance.


-Matt

At 06:34 PM 5/22/2007, Mike Holleman wrote:
I know what your dealing with. I have used Sanderson's on customers 
cars. Ill fit and poor welds. We swapped headers with them on a Nova 
and the second time they failed I just rewelded them myself.

Mike

Re: [Chevelle-list] bellhousing needed

[Brad Waller]

I may have one.  This is for the small (10.4") clutch/flywheel, right?  I
took off a 3858403 when I swapped to the larger clutch and I think I still
have the old one.  It is in pretty good shape with some really minor cracks.
Assuming it is still in the garage, here are pictures I too of it after I
removed it from the Corvette:
http://epage.com/brad/Corvette/bellhousing/

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of J. Brady
> Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 2:18 PM
> To: Chevelle Group
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] bellhousing needed
> 
> Looking for a bellhousing part #3858403.  If anyone
> can help please let me know.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Jim
> '66 Malibu
> 
> __
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
> http://mail.yahoo.com 
> 

[Chevelle-list] Engine Mounts

[Brad Waller]

Got the new Energy Suspension mounts installed in about two hours (done 
solo).  The old rubber mount (had "ANCHOR KOREA" on it) was ripped in 
half. Cheaply made and it only lasted two years.


Brad Waller

[Chevelle-list] Motor Mounts

[Brad Waller]

 How long do they mormally last.  My Chevelle is no monster, but my driver
side engine mount just let loose and I replaced it about two years ago.  The
previous one lasted maybe ten years, which seems much more reasonable.

Do you think I just got a crappy mount?  I'd hate to go solid, and I think
that even the poly mounts would still transmit a lot of noise and vibration
to the car, but I also don't want to be replacing the darn thing every few
years.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

Re: [Chevelle-list] Q: Jerky steering

[Brad Waller]

He is talking about the gear box where the steering shaft goes in one way
and the shaft for teh pitman arm comes out the bottom.  There is a worm gear
inside with ball bearings that run along it.  See this article:
http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0501or_4wd_steering_box/
and specifically, this picture:
http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0212or_steering_information/photo_07.html
 
Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pelle Andersson
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 11:22 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Q: Jerky steering


Sounds like you're talking about another type of power steering pump!?
Do you mean the pump vanes??
 
Pelle

- Original Message - 
From: Leo John  <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Costigan 
To: The Chevelle Mailing List <mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net>  
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 7:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Q: Jerky steering


It is possible that the steering box has developed what is knowing as 'stick
slip condition'. That is the balls in the guide tubes and sticking and
binding, especially when engine is cold and just starting up after sitting
for a few hours.  After warm up and getting the balls moving the condition
will go away but will return after a long cool down.  The tubes in the
steering box are worn.  You could replace the tubes and balls in the
steering box and correct the problem but at the age of the box other parts
are also worn.  A replacement unit will correct all worn parts.

 

Leo

- Original Message - 
From: Pelle Andersson <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  
To: The Chevelle Mailing List <mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net>  
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Q: Jerky steering

Nope!
I guess It's been there since I bought the car but I didn't notice it in the
beginning
because the engine was idling quite high! Now when the carb is OK and
the engine is starting to act normal I've noticed this!
But it's also possible that the problem have popped up lately.
 
My guess is that it's the steering pump.
If it's the pump? Is it enough to buy a gasket kit to get rid of the problem
or is it
something else (hard to fix) that's worn out or broken in the pump?
 
Pelle

- Original Message - 
From: Dale <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing  <mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net> List' 
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Q: Jerky steering


Did it start after replacing the hoses?  Could have air in the system.

 

Dale McIntosh

 <http://www.chevellecd.com> 1966/67 Chevelle Reference CDs

ChevelleStuff.com <http://www.chevellestuff.com> 

ACES #1709/TC GOLD #92 <http://www.chevellecd.com> 

 


  _  


From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pelle Andersson
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 11:19 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Q: Jerky steering

 

The belt is new, the fluid is fresh and at a proper level, the hoses to/from
the pump are new!

 

Pelle

- Original Message - 

From: Dale <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  

To: 'The Chevelle Mailing  <mailto:chevelle-list@chevelles.net> List' 

Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 6:12 PM

Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] Q: Jerky steering

 

You don't mention if you have power steering or not but low fluid or loose
p/s belt can cause this if so equipped.

 

Dale McIntosh

 <http://www.chevellecd.com> 1966/67 Chevelle Reference CDs

ChevelleStuff.com <http://www.chevellestuff.com> 

ACES #1709/TC GOLD #92 <http://www.chevellecd.com> 

 


  _  


From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pelle Andersson
Sent: Tuesday, April 17, 2007 10:51 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Q: Jerky steering

 

Hi!

 

The steering's a bit jerky at low rpm's, like when I'm parking the car!

Something wrong or normal?

The steering seems to be working fine but I can feel pulses/vibrations

in the steering wheel & the wheels move a bit "nervous" when steering.

 

Best regards
Pelle
__
Chevelle gearheads
http://hem.bredband.net/chevellegearheads/
http://groups.msn.com/chevellegearheads/restorepics.msnw

 


  _  

avast! Antivirus <http://www.avast.com> : Outbound message clean. 

Virus Database (VPS): 000734-1, 04/17/2007
Tested on: 4/17/2007 11:12:09 AM
avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2007 ALWIL Software.

 



  _  

avast! Antivirus <http://www.avast.com> : Outbound message clean. 


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Re: [Chevelle-list] OT: Universal O2 sensors

[Brad Waller]

Makes sense.  I'm pretty sure my mechanic is GM certified.

Brad

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Trooper
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 2:09 PM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT: Universal O2 sensors
> 
> I believe a mechanic has to be GM certified to do GM warranty work
> 
> Trooper
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Brad Waller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "'The Chevelle Mailing List'" 
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 1:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT: Universal O2 sensors
> 
> 
> > They should be covered no matter what.  At 27,000 miles I 
> would expect you
> > would be under the factory warranty, but I also am 99% sure that O2 
> > sensors
> > are part of the emissions system and will be covered.
> >
> > Also, you don't have to go to the dealer if you have a 
> quality mechanic 
> > who
> > can do this.  I'm pretty sure that they can do GM warranty 
> work as long as
> > they know how.  I know my mechanic told me so when I 
> brought our Blazer to
> > him after the warranty ran out.  He told me that I could have been 
> > bringing
> > it to him all along.  Our O2 sensors are still going OK 
> after 115K miles 
> > and
> > almost nine years.
> >
> > Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
> >
> > '66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 
> 245/45/16 BFG R1
> > '67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 
> 275/40/17 Kumho MX
> >
> >> -Original Message-
> >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Malibu
> >> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 3:03 AM
> >> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> >> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT: Universal O2 sensors
> >>
> >> I thought these sensors were part of the emission control 
> system and were
> >> warranted for 100,000 miles. My "check engine" just came 
> on in my Blazer
> >> with 27,000 miles on it. I found 2 sites that talk about 
> testing and
> >> repairing. If their not warranted, I sure don't want to go 
> to the dealer
> > and
> >> get ripped. I'll try and check it myself.
> >> http://www.bobblick.com/techref/projects/o2sensor/o2sensor.html
> >>
> >> http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/engine/all_o2sensor.html
> >
> >
> > 
> 
> 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] OT: Universal O2 sensors

[Brad Waller]

They should be covered no matter what.  At 27,000 miles I would expect you
would be under the factory warranty, but I also am 99% sure that O2 sensors
are part of the emissions system and will be covered.

Also, you don't have to go to the dealer if you have a quality mechanic who
can do this.  I'm pretty sure that they can do GM warranty work as long as
they know how.  I know my mechanic told me so when I brought our Blazer to
him after the warranty ran out.  He told me that I could have been bringing
it to him all along.  Our O2 sensors are still going OK after 115K miles and
almost nine years.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Malibu
> Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2007 3:03 AM
> To: The Chevelle Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] OT: Universal O2 sensors
> 
> I thought these sensors were part of the emission control system and were 
> warranted for 100,000 miles. My "check engine" just came on in my Blazer 
> with 27,000 miles on it. I found 2 sites that talk about testing and 
> repairing. If their not warranted, I sure don't want to go to the dealer
and 
> get ripped. I'll try and check it myself.
> http://www.bobblick.com/techref/projects/o2sensor/o2sensor.html
> 
> http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/engine/all_o2sensor.html

Re: [Chevelle-list] Polyurethane rear control arm bushings

[Brad Waller]

That sounds a lot like what I did.  My '67 has the tall spindles with
Del-A-Lum bushings, larger front sway bar, extra stiff springs, adjustable
Koni shocks in front.  In the rear I have 1967 stock springs and upper arms,
with their custom lower arms and no sway bar.

I think the extra stiff springs and adjustable shocks are overkill as they
are not adjustable on the car.  I really like the ride this way, but it is
likely too harsh for most.  The shocks have been adjusted twice and left
them as is...

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

> -Original Message-
> 
> Thanks to all who answered.
> Brad, yes it was Global West and P-S-T that I was referring to.
> This is meant to be an improvement over my old 64 two door on 
> which the rust kind of got ahead of me. Up to then was just 
> springs, shocks,sway bars, and tires. 
> I figure the Global West "tall spindle" swap with the tubular 
> A-arms will be an improvement. 
> Also poly bushings up front and faster steering box. 
> So now the 64 sedan is going to be the victim.
> I think I'll have to try their boxed control arms.
> Thanks.
> Pete
> 
> 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Polyurethane rear control arm bushings

[Brad Waller]

Who are the vendors that are saying this?  If Global West says one thing and
PST is saying the other, I'd believe Global West knows a lot more about
handling than PST.  But if it is Global West and Hotchkis, then you never
know.  These decisions get a lot easier if you pick one vendor you really
trust and follow their advice.  WHen I was setting up my suspension, I
visited both Hotchkis and Global West and thought both were excellent.

Based on time in the business, I went with Global West and used all of their
parts and advice.  When I was done with the front and started on the back, I
asked what I needed and they advised me to just get their lower arms unless
I was drag racing.  For drag racing, they would tell me to buy the upper
arms and springs, but for handling they told me not to buy their springs or
upper arms.  It's pretty trustworthy when you show up with an open checkbook
and they tell you not to buy half the stuff on your list.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, April 06, 2007 7:48 AM
> To: Chevelle-list@chevelles.net
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Polyurethane rear control arm bushings
> 
> I was wondering if anyone has any recent experience changing 
> the rear control arms to all poly bushings.
> One vendor claims they bind during hard cornering in road 
> going applications; but are ok for drag strip use.
> Another vendor doesn't know of any problem.
> 
> My thinking is I'll stay with stock arms and box the bottoms, 
> or maybe buy a set of aftermarket ready to use lower control arms.
> I'm leaning towards using all polyurethane on the lowers, and 
> all rubber on the top arms as they seem to have the worst 
> looking angle to operate through.
> But I'd like to hear from anyone with a "G" machine as Super 
> Chevy is so fond of calling them.
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> Pete Geurds
> Douglassville, PA
> 
> 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal

[Brad Waller]

If you are sure you are going to pull the pan, you can always jack up the
car and try it to see how close you come to getting it off.  If you can't do
it, then worst case you get a cherry picker and raise or pull the engine.  I
think it is possible, but I have never tried it in a Chevelle.  I think I
was able to do it in my '66 Corvette, but that is a much different car.
 
You also should decide if you really need to go to the trouble of swapping
out the pump (or spring) to lower the pressure.  While you may not need it,
and it might be costing you fractional horsepower, it will likely be a lot
faster, easier, and cheaper to sawp to a high pressure gauge, as Dale
mentioned.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Malibu
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 11:59 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Oil pan removal


Can the oil pan be pulled on a '66 Malibu with just raising the front of the
engine? I need to change the high volume oil pump. It's sending the needle
off the gage.
Thanks

Re: [Chevelle-list] rear end ratio help

[Brad Waller]

Sounds like 3.73:1

Brad Waller

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

was wondering if anyone could help with the rear end ratio;

turn tire 1- revolution
driveshaft turns 3 3/4 revolutions
tire size b-78-14

thank you!!
Harlan

Re: [Chevelle-list] clocks

[Brad Waller]

For me the problem I ran into was that the points are pretty much gone.
Filing really does not help if there is nothing there.  Any ideas on
something to replace them with that will last.  I tested solder, but that
isn't a good idea.
 
Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Nasta
> Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 5:36 AM
> To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] clocks
> 
> I used to have a web page posted w/ pics of the rebuild of my 1968  
> Olds clock but it's down right now.
> 
> Basically there is a set of points (like ignition points) 
> that need to  
> be cleaned w/ a emory board and you should also lubricate the  
> mechanism (not the points) w/ a light lube like TAL-5. Aside from  
> opening it up and putting it back together, that's about it.
> 
> I don't do this as a service but I'd imagine I'll be doing my '70  
> clock soon so I'll try to take new pictures.
> 
> 
> Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:
> 
> > In a message dated 3/26/2007 9:21:32 PM Central Standard Time,
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> >
> >
> >> The clocks are easy to fix. I have never seen a reason to 
> convert to
> >> quartz.
> >>
> >> John Nasta
> >
> > do you fix clocks for others? what does it run for cost??
> > thanks
> > Harlan

Re: [Chevelle-list] 700R4??????????

[Brad Waller]

Check this article out:
http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php

Brad

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 2/21/2007 5:13:34 AM Central Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:




The most critical setting with a 700 is the TV cable.  Off just a
> little bit and it will burn itself up in no time flat.  There's 
always the
> possibity that you could have simply gotten a bad one, which does 
happen,
> but I'd be inclined to think that with 2 recent failures under your 
best,

> there's a problem somewhere.
>
> Devin



is there any info anywhere on how to adjust this cable? or does it 
need to be done by a pro?


thanks
Harlan

Re: [Chevelle-list] LED Lights

[Brad Waller]

Which LED bulbs did you use?  I have seen some made specifically for
Chevelles, and then others as stock replacements for the 1157.  Last time I
was buying parts I found Kragen selling two 1157 LED bulbs for $15 from some
company I'd never heard of.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Johnny Palmer
Sent: Monday, March 12, 2007 7:23 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] LED Lights


Thanx for the suggestions...I know that the LED's draw a fraction of the
power conventional bulbs do...Maybe I do need one of those LED type
flashers...I'm hoping it is that easy to solve..If not I guess I will be
checking grounds and other connections.If it gets to involved I will
just swap back to the standard bulb...as the saying goes...Don't fix it if
it's not broken...
John

Re: [Chevelle-list] First passes down the 1/4 mile

[Brad Waller]

Those numbers are not all bad.  Assume an 18% loss through the 
drivetrain (could be more or less) and you get 305 at the flywheel.  
Remember that this is net, not gross and adjust again by another 25% 
(could be more, just guessing) and you end up with about 400 horsepower 
on an engine dyno.  Also, how well do you know your car's weight?  If it 
is really 3,600 pounds instead of 4,000, then you get much different 
numbers.


Brad Waller

John W. Lonadier, Jr. wrote:
Thanks Brad, like I said in my original post, "I sure would, or maybe 
not, like to know".
 
John L.


ACES #5597

70 LS5 TRIBUTE

http://chevellfan.com/index89.html

http://www.larueclassics.com/gallery/gallery%20pages/lodanier-chv70.html

-Original Message-
*From:* [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] *On Behalf Of *Brad
Waller
*Sent:* Monday, March 12, 2007 1:03 AM
*To:* The Chevelle Mailing List
*Subject:* Re: [Chevelle-list] First passes down the 1/4 mile

http://www.dragtimes.com/horsepower-et-trap-speed-calculator.php
Horsepower @ flywheel = 252.37 HP

Although I think this is HP at the rear wheels, as flywheel power
depends on drivetrain losses and you can't use them in a
calculation.  Don't bank on this, but it makes sense to me that way.

Or http://www.dsm.org/tools/calchp.htm
*The ET method*
This method uses the weight of the car and the time it took that
car to travel 1330 feet (¼ mile).
The formula is: hp = weight / (ET / 5.825)^3   =  *254* horsepower

*The Trap-speed method*
This method uses the weight of the car and the speed at which the
car completed the quarter-mile run.
The formula is: hp = weight * (speed / 234)^3   = *251* horsepower
Brad Waller
'67 Chevelle
'66 Corvette

John W. Lonadier, Jr. wrote:

I just got back from the drag strip where I made my first passes.
The first run was 15.107 @ 92.06mph. I then took a lot of stuff
out of the trunk, cleaning supply box, chair & toolbox. The
second pass was 14.608 @ 93mph and my final pass was 14.701 @
92.57mph. I don't know if this is too shabby for a 4200# car,
with me in it, on pump gas and on street tires running a 3.31
rear gear and 27" tall tires. What do you guys and/or gals think?
Is there anyone on the list that has the software to figure an
approximate HP using these figures. I sure would, or maybe not,
like to know without being able to put it on a chassis dyno.
 


Thanks,

John L.

ACES #5597

70 LS5 TRIBUTE

http://chevellfan.com/index89.html

http://www.larueclassics.com/gallery/gallery%20pages/lodanier-chv70.html

Re: [Chevelle-list] First passes down the 1/4 mile

[Brad Waller]

http://www.dragtimes.com/horsepower-et-trap-speed-calculator.php
Horsepower @ flywheel = 252.37 HP

Although I think this is HP at the rear wheels, as flywheel power 
depends on drivetrain losses and you can't use them in a calculation.  
Don't bank on this, but it makes sense to me that way.


Or http://www.dsm.org/tools/calchp.htm
*The ET method*
This method uses the weight of the car and the time it took that car to 
travel 1330 feet (¼ mile).

The formula is: hp = weight / (ET / 5.825)^3   =  *254* horsepower

*The Trap-speed method*
This method uses the weight of the car and the speed at which the car 
completed the quarter-mile run.

The formula is: hp = weight * (speed / 234)^3   = *251* horsepower

Brad Waller
'67 Chevelle
'66 Corvette

John W. Lonadier, Jr. wrote:
I just got back from the drag strip where I made my first passes. The 
first run was 15.107 @ 92.06mph. I then took a lot of stuff out of the 
trunk, cleaning supply box, chair & toolbox. The second pass was 
14.608 @ 93mph and my final pass was 14.701 @ 92.57mph. I don't know 
if this is too shabby for a 4200# car, with me in it, on pump gas and 
on street tires running a 3.31 rear gear and 27" tall tires. What do 
you guys and/or gals think? Is there anyone on the list that has the 
software to figure an approximate HP using these figures. I sure 
would, or maybe not, like to know without being able to put it on a 
chassis dyno.
 


Thanks,

John L.

ACES #5597

70 LS5 TRIBUTE

http://chevellfan.com/index89.html

http://www.larueclassics.com/gallery/gallery%20pages/lodanier-chv70.html

Re: [Chevelle-list] Leaving the List for awhile

[Brad Waller]

All the best to you as well.  Let us know if you need anything while you are
off list and I bet we can still help and be there for you as you have been
for many of us.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Clint Hooper
> Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2007 7:39 AM
> To: chevelle-list@chevelles.net
> Subject: [Chevelle-list] Leaving the List for awhile
> 
> Hi,folks. Just wanted to say "goodbye" and thanks for all your friendship
> that I've enjoyed here over the years. I'll be moving into my new
apartment
> this week and may be offline for quite awhile. You guys have been like a
> second family to me and I just wanted to tell you how much I appreciated
it.
> Take care of yourselves,ok?
> Sincerely,
> Clint Hooper
> H&H Custom,owner
> 1969 El Camino protourer sold
> http://dalesplace.com/misc/friends/clint/clint_hooper.htm
> http://www.lateral-g.net/members/hooper/
> "You may find me dead one day in a ditch. But by God,you'll find me in a
> pile of brass."

Re: [Chevelle-list] 700R4??????????

[Brad Waller]

I have also heard good things about Bowtie Overdrives (
<http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/index.shtml>
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/index.shtml), but if you can ask around and
find a really good shop in your area it is a whole lot easier to take care
of a minor or major problem when you can two your car ten miles instead of
pulling a tranny and shipping it across the country. 
 
My 700R4 came from a junkyard and lasted a year or two, and now it has been
many years, but not a ton of miles on a rebuild from a trusted local shop.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dave Corgill
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 8:42 AM
To: The Chevelle Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] 700R4??


At 09:43 AM 2/20/2007, you wrote:
>
>Take it or send it to Phoenix in weatherford and Greg
>will fix it correctly. 
>mike

You got that right, he has done mine & others in this
group. 

Re: [Chevelle-list] Ancient History

[Brad Waller]

Hey Mitch,
 
Let's work on Frank next.  Who else is MIA that we want back?

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX

Mitch Barrie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Brad Waller recently tracked me down and invited me to rejoin the 
Chevelle List.

Some of you may remember me as the fellow who started the Chevelle 
List in October of 1996.

I have two 1966 Chevelles: an El Camino and a Malibu 
convertible. During the late nineties they were my daily 
drivers. For the last six years they have both been sitting in 
pieces waiting for me to complete their restorations.

I have my own business now making shotgun parts, but this year I hope 
to get back to my Chevelles and get them running again. There is so 
much I have forgotten about these cars, I hope this mailing list 
comes in handy.

Mitch

Re: [Chevelle-list] the list.

[Brad Waller]

You mean this one:

Remove me from this list.
The List?
Yes, remove me from this list.
Move it where?
Just remove me.
>From what?
This list.
The list?
Yes, remove me from this list.
Move it where?
REmove me!
Re-move? where did I move it from last time?
Ok, Ok, Unsubscribe me from this list.
The list?
Yes, Unsubscribe me from this list.
When did I subscribe you in the first place?
Just remove me.
 From what?
This list.
The list?
Unsub me!!!
I can't.
Why not?!
Because YOU have to do it.
I do?
Yes you do.
How would I know THAT?
 From the 8,000 emails per week that get generated from this same question.
Oh, but I don't read them.
Obviously. See here: 
http://chevelles.net/mailman/options/chevelle-list_chevelles.net

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX 

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [Chevelle-list] the list.
> 
> hehe!  yea, you found the can of worms all right!  You're taking it  
> better than most.
> 
> The list does slow down this time of year, when the weather is cold  
> and bad (for most of us).  It'll pick up over the next couple 
> of months.
> 
> And anytime you feel bored, just ask about how to get off 
> this list.   
> I've almost done this a few times just for fun.   Guranteed to  
> generate plenty of responses!
> 
> Where's my Abbot And Costello routine?   Mitch might like that one  
> too.  I'll have to send it out tonight.

Re: [Chevelle-list] Unsubscribe!

[Brad Waller]

I agree. I think I am one of the few remaining original members and I don't
see myself leaving even if I didn't have my Chevelle.  In fact, we just
missed the 10th anniversary of the list.  It was started on October 1996 by
Mitch (Mitcho) Barrie.  I have not heard from him in a while, but I think he
in the Bay Area now.

Brad Waller ([EMAIL PROTECTED])

'66 Corvette | 327/dead | 4-speed | Wilwood Brakes | 245/45/16 BFG R1
'67 Chevelle | ex-SS396 | 355/700R4 | F-Body Brakes | 275/40/17 Kumho MX


  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pelle Andersson
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2007 8:42 AM
To: 'The Chevelle Mailing List'
Subject: [Chevelle-list] Unsubscribe!



I don't think I'll ever unsubscribe from this list now!?

I subscribed to this list only a few weeks after I bought my Chevelle (my
first muscle car ever)

I'd feel rude, like telling a dear friend to p. off without any reason.

You've guided me through the hard times when I've hated the car.

You helped me when I was a total rookie.

I almost planned to sell her once but thanks to you I've kept on tinkering
:-)

 

Going up north in Mars to get another load of parts imported from "over
there"

And it's like Christmas every time :-)

 

Thanks to all of you!

I'll be pestering you with stupid Q:s for a while longer ;-)

 

Pelle